Generic Name Cellulose Acetate; Triacetate where not less than 92% of Acetate the cellulose is acetylated

Acrylic Aramid Glass

At least 85% Acrylonitrile unite

Polyamide in which at least 85% of the amide linkages are directly attached to two aromatic rings Glass

Modacrylic Less than 85%but at least 35% acrylonitrile units Nylon Olefin Polyester Polyamide in which less than 85% of the amide linkages are directly attached to two aromatic rings

At least 85% ethylene, propylene, or other olefin units At least 85%ester of a substituted aromatic carboxylic acid including but not restricted to substituted terephthalate units and parasubstituted hydroxybenzoate units
Regenerated cellulose with less than 15% chemically combined substituents

Rayon

Saran
Spandex

At least 80%vinylidene chloride

Elastomer of at least 85% of a segmented polyurethane

Vinal
_-

At least 50% vinyl alcohol units and at least 85% total vinyl alcohol and acetal units

3-2 Man Made Fibers And Their Proprtles

Wet Spinning
TvDical Wet SDun Fibers Viscose
Acrilan Creslan

Disadvantages Slow (70 - 150 yddmin)

0'

Washing to remove impurities Solvent and chemical recovery

Advantages Large tows can be handled

Man Made Fibers And Thek Propertla 3-3

Dry Spinning
TvDical Dry SRun Fibers Acetate (acetone solvent)
Triacetate (methylene chloride)

Spandex (some) (dimethyl formamide)

Disadvantages Flammable solvent hazards

0'

Solvent recovery Slow (?)

(200 - 400 yddmin)

Advantages Yarn does not require purification

_-

3-4

Man Made Fibers And Their Properties

Melt Spinning
TvDical Melt Spun Fibers
Nylons
0

Polyester Polypropylene

Disadvantages Separate drawing step (unless spin draw) Advantages High speed (275 to 1500 yddmin); (4000 yddmin spin draw)
Nosolvents No purification problems

Extrusion Of Man Made Fibers

(Spinning Methods)
A. Wet Spinning (Ravon)

B. Dry Spinning
Polymer Solution

Air Outlet

Heating Jacket

--

Filament Winding -

3-6 Man Made Fibers And Their Properties

C. Melt SRinning

Storage Hopper

-, i

6
J

%p j

Roll Finish

. I
dfIFilament Winding

Man Made Flbers And Their Properties 3-7

Textile Fiber Parameters

Fibrous materials should possess certain properties for them to be u s e k l as textile raw materials. Those properties which are essential for acceptance as a suitable raw material may be classified as "primary properties", while those which add specific desirable character or aesthetics to the end product and its use may be classified as "secondary properties".

Prima- ProDerties Length; length-width ratio

Tenacity (strength) Flexibility (pliability) Acceptable extensibility for processing Cohesion Uniformity of properties

Secondary ProDerties
0

Physical shape (cross-section, surface contour, etc. Specific gravity (influence weight, cover, etc.) Moisture regain and moisture absorption (comfort, static electricity, etc.) Elastic character - tensile and compression Thermoplasticity (softening point and heat-set character)
3-6 Man Made Fibers And Thelr Properties

-0

Dyeability Resistance to solvents, corrosive chemicals, micro-organisms, and environmental conditions Flammability

Luster

Note: Cost is always a factor to consider

Man Made Aben And Their Properties 3-9

Figure 3- 1 Typical Stress-Strain Curves Of Various Fibers

10

15

20

2 5 3 0

35

4 0 4 5

50

SMnPercent

3-10 Man Made Fibers And T er Properties hi

Key Fiber Properties Determined by Polymer Composition And Structure

Melting Point

Modulus
Elasticity and recovery from strain Tensile strength Density Moisture absorption Dyeability

comfort

_-

Man Made flben And Thelr Propertles 3-1 1

& 1
,>?$
... ... ... ... ,,.+ .:.:.. ........ ....:::' ..:.:.:.,.

Examples of Fiber Shapes

I'= .# -*

Flat Oval, Lumen Convolutions Cotton

Oval to round, Overlapping scales Medulla Wool

Triangular, Round edges, Uniform in man-mades Silk, Nylon Type 90 Dacron Type 62

Cicular, Uniform in diameter Nylon, Dacron Cuprammonium Rayon

Dog-Bone Orlon, Verel, Lycra

,y'
...

Lobular Lengthwise Striations Acetate

Y-Shaped
Celacbud Type 20 Acetate Cumulofi Nylon

Ribbon-Shaped Dyne1

Circular, Serrated, Lengthwise Striations Viscose Rayon

2'2EE= .........
$&&.

Trilobal Antron Nylon

3-12 Man Made Fibers And Thelr Properties

Density and Specific Gravity'

Fiber Densits ( d c c )

Natural Fibers Cotton Flax Silk Wool

1.52 1.52 1.25 1.32

Man-made Fibers Acetate Acrylic Aramid Flurocarbon Glass Modacrylic Nylon Nylon Qiana Olefin Polyester Rayon Spandex

1.32 1.17 - 1.18 1.38 - 1.44 22 . 2.49 - 2.73 1.30 - 1.37 1.14 1.03 0.91 1.22 or 1.38 1.50 - 1.52 1.20 - 1.22

*Ratio of weight of a given volume of fiber to an equal volume of water

_-

Man M a d e Fibers And Thelr Properties 3-13

Absorbency
Fiber Natural Fibers Cotton Flax Silk Wool Man-made Fibers Acetate Arne1 triacetate Acrylic &amid Flurocarbon Glass Modacrylic Nylon Nylon Qiana Olefin Polyester Rayon Rayon HWM Spandex Moisture Regain*

7-11 12 11 13 - 18
6.0

3.2 1 3 - 2.5 .
4.5 0 0 03 . 0.4 4.0 4.0 4.5 2.5

0.01 - 0.1 0.4 - 0 8 . 11.5 - 13 0.75 - 1 3 .

15

*Moisture re ain is expressed as a percentage of the moisture-free weight at 70 Farenheit and 65% relative humidity.

3-14 Man Made Rbers And Their Propertla

Heat And Textile Materials

Important Criteria to Consider Softening, melting, o r decomposition temperatures
Tendency of the fiber and fabric to shrink when heat-relaxed, or stretch when heated and under tension Ability of the fabric t o heat set Ability of the fabric to h c t i o n properly at elevated temperatures in one time or repeated use Ability of the fabric to ftnction properly at room temperature (or some other lower temperature) after exposure at high temperature for a given period of time

_-

Man Mode Fibers And Thelr Properties 3-15

Table 3- 1 Thermal Properties

k
Natural Fben

Fiber

Melting Point

Softening

OF

OC

Sticking Point OF O C

Safe Ironing Temperature* OF OC

Cotton

Nonmelting Nonmelting Nonmelting

425 450 300 300

2 18 232 149 149

Wool

Nonmelting

Acetate

446 575

230 302

364 482

184 250 204-254

350 464

177 240 149-176

I I

I I

I I I

Acrylic Aramid
Glass

400-490

300-350

Does not melt, carbonizes above 800' F

1400-3033 200-250 93-121

1 I

Modacrylic Novoloid Nylon6 Nylon66 Olefin Polyester PET Polyester PCDT

Nonmelting
414 482 275 480 550 2 12 250 135 249 311 340
445

171 229

300 350

149 177

I
I I
~

260

127
238 254

150

(lowest possible)
325 350 375 163 177 191

460 490

;---saran Spandex Vinyon

Nonmelting
350 446 285 177 230 140 300 347 200 149 175 93

Do not iron
300 149

Do not iron

3- 16 Man Made FibersAnd Their PropeC.nes

Comparative Fiber Properties Effect Of Acids

Acrylic Modacrylic Polyester Rayon Acetate Triacetate Nylon 66
Resistant t o most acids Resistant to most acids Resistant to most mineral ac is; disintegrated by 96% sulhric Disintegrates in hot dilute and cold concentrated acids Soluble in acetic acid, decomposed by strong acids Similar to acetate Decomposed by strong mineral acids, resistant to weak acids Very resistant Resists most acids. Etched by hydrofluoric acid and hot phosphoric acid Similar to rayon Destroyed by hot sulfuric, otherwise unaffected by acids

Olefin
Glass Cotton Wool

--

Man Made Rbers And Their Properties

3-17

Comparative Fiber Properties Effects Of Alkalies

Acrylic Modacrylic Polyester Rayon Acetate Triacetate Nylon 66 Olefin Glass Cotton Wool
Destroyed by strong alkalies at a boil, resists weak alkalies Resistant to alkalies Resistant to cold alkalies, slowly decomposed at a boil by strong alkalies
No effect by cold, weak alkalies, swells and loses strength in concentrated alkalies

Saponified, little effect from cold weak alkalies Not effected up to pH 9.8,205' F; better than acetate Little or no effect Very resistant Attacked by hot weak alkalies and concentrated alkalies Swells when treated with caustic soda but is not damaged Attacked by weak alkalies, destroyed by strong alkalies

3-18 Man Made FibersAnd Their Propetties

Comparative Fiber Properties Effect Of Organic Solvents

Acrylic Modacrylic Polyester Rayon Acetate Triacetate Nylon 66 Olefin Glass Cotton Wool
Unaffected Soluble in warm acetone, otherwise unaffected Soluble in some phenolic compounds, otherwise unaffected Unaffected Soluble in acetone, dissolved or swollen by many others Soluble in acetone, chloroform and swollen by others Generally unaffected, soluble in some phenolic compounds

6' Soluble in chlorinated hydrocarbons above 10

Unaffected Resistant Generally resistant

Man Made FibersAnd Their Properh 3-19

Comparative Fiber Properties Effect Of Sunlight

Acrylic Modacrylic Polyester Rayon Acetate Triacetate Nylon 66 Olefin Glass Cotton Wool
Little or no effect Highly resistant, some loss of strength and discoloration after constant exposure Some loss of strength, no discoloration, very resistant behind glass Generally resistant, loses strength after long exposure Approximately same as rayon Resistant, loses strength after long exposure

No discoloration, strength loss after long exposure

Very resistant, retains 95% strength after 6 months exposure None Strength loss on long exposure Strength loss, dyeing is affected

3-20 Man Made FibersAnd Their Properties

Rayon
(A Cellulosic Man-Made Fiber)

ComDosition Regenerated cellulose Physical ProDerties 0 Microscopic Appearance - Striations seen in viscose and high-strength rayon - If delustered, scattered specks of pigment can be seen.
0

Length -Filament and staple Color -Transparent unless dulled by pigments Luster -High unless delustering pigment added Strength - Fair to excellent -Regular rayon has fair strength -High tenacity types have good to excellent strength

Elasticity -Regular rayon is low High strength rayon is good -0

Resiliency -High wet-strength rayon is better

Man Made Fibers And Their Properties 3-21

Moisture Absorption - Higher than natural cellulose - Fibers swell in water - Weaker when wet Heat - Loses strength above 300' F - Decomposes between 350 and 400' F Flammability -Burns rapidly unless treated Electrical Conductivity - Fair - static charge can be reduced with special finishes Specific Gravity - 1.52 (similar to cotton) Chemical ProDerties (similar to cotton) Easily damaged by strong acids
Resistant to alkalies, reduction in strength if concentrated Lengthy exposure to sunlight weakens the fabric Greater f i n i t y for dyes than cotton

3-22 Man Made FibersAnd Their Properties

Acrylic
(A Wool-Like Fiber)

ComDosi t ion Acrylonitrile and small amounts of other monomers

Physical Properties Microscopic appearance - Uniform and smooth surface - Irregular spaced striations Length - Mainly a staple fiber Color - White to off-white Luster -Bright, semidull, or dull Strength -Fair to good strength Elasticity - Good Resilience - Good Water Absorption -1-3%
Man Made flbers And Their Properties 3-23

--

Heat -Yellowing may occur above 300' F - Softening o r sticking about 450' F Flammability - Burns with yellow flame Electrical Conductivity - Fair to good Specific Gravity - 1.14 to 1.19 - Good bulk and covering power Chemical ProDerties Damaged only by strong concentrated acids
Not normally affected by alkalies
Very resistant to ultraviolet light

3-24 Man Made Fibers And Their Properties

Nylon
(A Polyamide Fiber)
Com osit ion D

Nylon 66 - Polyhexamethylene Adipamide Nylon 6 - Caprolactam

Phvsical Proverties Microscopic Appearance -Very smooth and even

Length , - Filament and staple Color - Off-white Luster - High natural luster can be controlled Strength - Exceptionally high (60,000 - 108,000)pounds per square inch Elasticity - Exceptionally high Resiliency -Very good
--

Moisture Absorption - 3.8%

Man Made Fibers And Thelr Properties 3-25

Heat - High resistance, melts at 482' F Flammability - Melts slowly - Does not support combustion Electrical Conductivity - Low, generates static Specific Gravity '1.14 (low density)

Chemical ProDerties Weakened by concentrated strong acids

High resistance to alkalies Loses strength in prolonged exposure to sunlight - bright yam more resistant than dull yam

3-26 Man Made FibersAnd Their Properties

Polyester
(Most Versatile Fiber)

ComDosition Combination of Terephthalic Acid or Dimethylterephthalate and Ethylene Glycol Phvsical ProDerties Microscopic Appearance - Smooth, even, rodlike, different cross-sectionalshapes Length - Filament and staple Color -White Luster - Bright or dull Strength - Good to excellent Elasticity -Fair to good - Greater than cotton or rayon Resilience -Excellent Moisture Absorption - Less than 1%
Man Mode Fibers And Thelr Properties 3-27

_-

Heat - Softening o r sticking temperature is above 4 0 F (thermoplastic) 0' Flammability - B u m slowly Electrical Conductivity -Accumulates static changes Specific Gravity -Typically 1.38

Chemical Pronerties
Good resistance to most acids

Good resistance to most alkalies

Good sunlight resistance

--

3-26 Man Made Fibers And Thelr Properties

Figure 3-2 Production of Polyester

Drying

r-l

1 Drawing Tow

Drawing
2 Crimping
3

3 Drying/Heat Setting
4 Cutting

Filament Yam

Staple Fiber

--

Man Made FibenAnd Thelr Propertles 3-29

Acetate
(A Cellulosic Man-Made Fiber)

ComDosition Acetate Ester of Cellulose Phvsical ProDerties Microscopic Appearance - Striations farther apart than viscose rayon - Lobed cross-section Length -Filament and staple

Color -Transparent unless dulled by pigments

Luster - Bright, semibright, or dull Strength -Moderate - Less than rayon when wet

Elasticity -Not very high - Similar to rayon

--

Resilience -Poor

3-30 Man Made Flbers And Their Properties

Moisture Absorption - 6%, little strength loss when wet Heat - Ironing temperatures of 275' F are satisfactory Flammability - Slowly combustible Electrical Conductivity - Good Specific Gravity - 1.32

Chemical ProDerties Concentrated strong acids will decompose it

Strong alkalies will damage it Long exposures to sunlight produce a weakening effect

--

Man Made Fibers And Their Properties 3-31

Polypropylene
(An Olefin Fiber)

ComDosition Propylene Physical ProDerties Microscopic Appearance - Smooth and rodlike Length - Filament and staple Color - Translucent Luster - Dull, semidull, bright Strength -Excellent strength (depends on degree of polymerization) Elasticity - Good Resilience - Good resistance to crushing
0

Moisture Absorption -None

3-32 Man Made Abets And Thek Properties

Heat -Melts at about 30 F 3' - Progressive shrinkage can occur at 10 F to 22 F 4' 1' Flammability - Slow burning Electrical Conductivity -Excellent Specific Gravity - 0.90 to 0.91

Chemical ProDerties Very resistant to most acids

Very resistant to alkalies Dye pigments usually added to the liquid before fibers are extruded Loses strength in sunlight, degrades upon long exposure

--

Man Made Rben And Thelr Properties 3-33

Polyethylene
(An Olefin Fiber)

Composit ion Ethylene

Phvsical ProDerties Microscopic Appearance - Smooth and rodlike Length - Filament and staple Color -Translucent Luster - Dull, semidull, bright Strength - Fair to good (depends on degree of polymerization) Elasticity - Good Resilience - Good resistance to crushing
6 - Moisture Absorption

-None

3-34 Man Made FibersAnd Their Propertles

Heat -Very heat-sensitive - Melts at about 20 F 6' Flammability - Slow burning Electrical Conductivity - Excellent Specific Gravity - 0.90 to 0.91 Chemical ProDerties Very resistant to most acids
Very resistafit to alkalies Dye pigments usually added t o the liquid before fibers are extruded Loses strength in sunlight, degrades upon long exposure

_-

Man Made Fibers And Their Properties 3-35

Table 3-2 Textile Fiber Properties

specific Tenacity Tenacity Moisture Elongation Softening (%I Melting Gravity (gpd) (wet) (gpd) Regain Point ("F) (6 9) Cotton
1.5 - 1.55

3.0 - 4.9

3.3 - 6.4

7-8
I

3-7
I

NONE
I

Acetate

1.32

1.3 - 1.5

1.2 - 1.4

23 - 24 35 - 39

(sM00-445'F (m)500F

Acrylic

1.16 - 1.18

2.0 - 3.6

1.6 - 2.9

1.5 - 2.5

(sM20'F

Glass

2.50 - 2.55

9.6 - 19.9

6.7 - 19.9

NONE
I

3.1 - 5.3

I
1

(s)135O-156O0

F
(sM5OF (mM80-500'F

~~

~~

Nylon 66

1.14

3.0 - 7.2

2.6 6.1

4.2 - 4.5

l6

Polyester

1.38

2.2 - 6.6

2.2 - 6.6

0.4 - 0.8

12-67
1

(sM5'F (mM82'F DNM Decomposes 350400F

DNM Decomposes 310-350'F DNM 350-4509

I
R.LIYOI1,

HT
Wool

1.50 1.53

3.0 - 5.7

1.9 - 4.3

13

9 - 26

1.3 1

1 1.5

16

30 40

3-5

1 1

25

3-36 Man Made Rbers And Thelr PrOpertres

Summary Of Properties Desired For Textile Fibers

Azmarel and Domestic Reauirements 0 Tenacity: 3 - 5 gramddenier
0

Elongation at break: 10 - 35% Recovery from elongation: 100% at strains up to 5% Modulus of elasticity: 30 - 60 gramddenier Moisture absorbency: 2 - 5% Zero strength temperature (excessive creep and softening point): above 25 C 1' High abrasion resistance (varies with type fabric structure) Dyeable

Low flammability
Insoluble with low swelling in water, in moderately strong acids and bases and conventional organic solvents from room temperature

to 10 0'
0

Ease of care

Industrial Reauirements Tenacity: 7 - 8 graddenier

Elongation at break: 8 15% Modulus of elasticity: 80 graddenier or more conditioned, 50 g r a d d e n i e r wet Zero strength temperature: 20 C or above 5'

--

Man Made Fibers And Their Properties 3-37

Fiber Property Chart

Fiber Prover&
Abrasion Resistance The ability of a fiber to withstand the rubbing or abrasion it gets in everyday use

Is Due To

Contn'buter To Fabric ProDertv

Durability Abrasion resistance Resistance to splitting

Tough outer layer, scales, or skin Fiber toughness Flexible molecular chains

Absorbency or Moisture Regain The percentage of moisture a bone-dry fiber Will absorb from the air under standard conditions of .temperature and moisture

Hydroxyl groups Amorphous areas

Comfort, warmth, water repellency, absorbency, static build-up Dyeability, spotting Shrinkage Wrinkle resistance

Aging Resistance

Chemical structure Chemical Reactivity The effect of acids, alkali, oxidizing agents, solvents Cohesiveness The ability of fibers to cling together during spinning, not important in continuous filament Cover The ability to occupy space for concealment or protection Creep Delayed elasticity; Recovers gradually -- &om strain

Storing of fabrics

Polar groups of molecules

Care required in cleaning/bleaching, ability to take acid or alkali finishes Resistance to ravel

Crimp or twists

Crimp, curl, or twist Cross-sectional shape

Warmth in fabric Cost - less fiber needed

Lack of side chains, cross links, strong bonds; poor orientation

Streak dyeing and shiners in fabric

Density see Specific Gravity Dyeability The fibers receptivity to coloration by dyes Elastic Recovery The ability of fibers to recover from strain Elasticity The ability of a stretched material to retum immediately to its original size

Amorphous areas and dye sites

Aesthetics and colorfastness

Molecular structure: side chains, cross linkages, strong bonds

Processability of fabrics Resiliency

Delayed elasticity or creep

Electric Conductivity The ability to transfer electrical charges

Elongation The ability to be strztched, extended, or lengthened; varies at different temperatures and when wet or dry Feltability The ability of fibers to mat together

Chemical structure: polar groups

Poor conductivity causes

fabric to cling to the body, electric shocks Increases tear strength Reduces brittleness Provides give and stretchiness

Fiber crimp Molecular structure: molecular crimp orientation

Scale structure of wool

Fabrics can be made directly ?om fibers Special care required during washing

Flammability The ability to ignite and burn

Chemical composition

Fabrics bum

Hand
The way a fiber feels: silky, harsh, soft, crisp, dry Cross-sectional shape, crimp, diameter, length

Hand of fabric

-- - The ability to conduct heat

away fiom the body

Heat Conductivity

Crimp Cross-sectional shape

Warmth

Man Mode Fibers And Their Properties 3-39

Heat Sensitivity The ability to soften, melt, or shrink when subjected t o heat Hydrophilic or Hygroscopic Bee Absorbency Luster The light reflected from a surface; more subdued than shine; light rays are broken up

Heat vibrates molecules Fewer intermolecular forces and cross links

Determine safe washing and ironing temperatures

Smoothness Fiber length Flat or lobal shape

Luster

Luster

Shine

Loft or Compressional Resiliency The ability to spring back t o original thickness after being compressed Mildew Resistance

Fiber crimp Stiffness Low absorption Molecule has no sulfur

Springiness, good cover Resistance to flattening

Care during storage Care during storage

Moth Resistance
Pilling The bailing up of fiber ends on the surface of fabrics
Specific Gravity and Density The measures of the weight of a fiber; Density is the weight in grams per cubic centimeter and specific gravity is the ratio of the mass of the fiber to an equal volume of water at doc.

Fiber strength High molecular weight

Pilling Unsightly appearance

Molecular weight

Warmth without weight Loftiness - full and light Buoyancy to fabric

--

3-40 Man Made Fibers And Their Properties

Stiffness or Rigidity The opposite of flexibility; the resistance t o bending o r creasing

Ratio of breaking stress to breaking strain

Body of fabric Resistance to insertion of yam twist

Strength
The ability to resist stress; expressed as tensile strength (pounds per square inch) or a s tenacity (grams per denier)
Sunlight Resistance The ability to withstand degradation from direct sunlight

Molecular structure: orientation, crystallinity, degree of polymerization

Durability, tear strength, sagging, pilling Sheerer fabrics possible with stronger fine fibers

Chemical composition

Durability of curtains and draperies, outdoor furniture, outdoor carpeting

Toughness Outer surface of "skin" of fiber Resists rupture from deformation, gives frictional resistance

Wicking The ability of a fiber to transfer moisture along its surface

Chemical and physical composition of outer surfaces

Makes fabrics comfortable

3-41

Fiber Blends Some Reasons For Blending

To facilitate processing
To improve properties -Abrasion resistance - Strength -Absorbency -Add bulk and warmth - Hand -Dimensional stability -Resistance to wrinkling

To produce multi-color fabrics

To reduce cost

3-42