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ciDIY Engine Start Button Instalation Guide.

Engine Start Button Install


Tools you till need An Engine Start Button I got mine from here Bullet wire connectors No2 Phillips Screw Driver Flat head screw driver Wire Cutters Pliers or wire crimpers 38mm spanner 30mm drill bit, tank/hole cutter Cordless drill Scissors Wire Strippers Soldering Iron Solder Heat Shrink or electrical tape. PLEASE NOTE I AM FROM THE UK SO THIS GUIDE IS FOR A CAR THE DRIVES ON THE CORRECT SIDE OF THE ROAD AND IS RIGHT HAND DRIVE, SOME THINGS MAY DIFFER THROUGHOUT THE REST OF EUROPE. Step 1 Removal of the steering wheel trim You will need to remove the upper and lower parts that cover the steering column. Instructions can be found here you may find it easier to pop the height adjuster at the bottom of the wheel so you can move it about to remove the upper and lower panel.

Take care when removing the small bulb that lights the ignition key slot.

You will also need to remove the lower trim panel again the info from the service manual can be found here This is pretty simple to do it is simply held in place at the top with 2 white clips and then folds down on 2 hinges at the bottom then pulls away.

Step 2 unplugging the ignition loom. Next you will need to splice in to the ignition system, I did this up high just behind where the loom plugs in to the actual switch, there is a small red retention clip holding the plug in the its socket found at the top of the plug. I removed this with a small flat head screw driver by placing the screwdriver inside and then colling the red clip away from the direction of the socket, this clip is fully captured and stays attached to the plug so be carful. Once you have slid this back then you need to push down in the top clip on the plug to remove it (much the same as any plug in the engine bay) The plug to the ignition loom it located here (its the white part in this picture with the blue sire coming from it, please not that the blue wire in this picture if srom a later stage in the install)

Step 3 splicing in to the ignition system First you will need to cut the protective casing back on the loom so you can get access to the wires in the ignition loom. Once you have access to the wires in the loom you will need to splice in to 2 of the 6 wires. Please note that some of the wire colours seem to vary from my experience. Please take a look at the diagram in the service manual here I will be referring to this instead of wire colours. The 2 wires you need to splice in to are the starter motor wire and a 12volt supply. Note that the diagram is of the actual socket on the ignition switch and not the plug on the loom. Wire A goes to the starter motor and Wire B is your 12volt supply. How you cut in to these wires is up to you however I tried removing the metal spades from the plug and soldering about 4 inches on to them but this was very difficult so I ended up with the 12volt supply (wire B) using a tail with a bullet connector on the end. And the starter motor wire (wire A) I cut then crimped a male bullet connector on one end and a female on the other.

Step 4 Prepping the Relay Unit for install Ok its now time to brake out the serious tools, as your going to be adding bullet connectors to the ends of your relay wires now. This will make the actual install a lot easier as it will then simply plug in to your new modified ignition loom.

Looking at the image you will see 4 wires coming from the relay unit. Black is your Ground wire Red is your 12volt supply for the illumination of the button Green (next to the red) is your 12volt supply for your relay unit) Green (very top of the picture) goes to your starter motor circuit (wire A in step 3) Starting with the Ground Wire strip this back and crimp on one of these connectors with a hole through the centre. I then added a small length of heat shrink for extra insulation (and probably because I am obsessed with the stuff) Then depending on how you want to illuminate your start button this depends where you tap the red cable. I wanted it to light up whenever the ignition was active so I joined the Red wire with the Green next to it and crimped on a bullet connector to hold these together I placed a length of heat shrink over the bullet connector and so far down the wires, shrunk this on then added a small cable tie for extra security.

This assembly is the part that will plug in to your 12 volt supply (point B in the diagram in step 2) And finally the top green sire in the picture. Because of the way I added connectors to my ignition loom I had to cut this and place both a male and female bullet connector on this wire. This is because while on connector B I managed to solder an extra bit of wire with a bullet connector to the spade connector inside the plug (by removing it first) However on Collector A I did not and instead chose to splice the original wire and reconnect them with a pair of bullet connectors. So to do this wire I simply crimped a male bullet connector to the very end and then added heat shrink (again) next of cut the same green wire about 3 inches down from the connector on the end. Stripped both wires of insulation and then crimped female bullet connector on to this terminal. Again added heat shrink and a small cable tir to stop these 2 wires from pulling apart. A close up of the finished wire ends

Step 5 Installing the relay box and wiring loom. Now you have done all the prep work this is the simple bit. Its just a case of plugging the correct wires in to the correct connectors. So if your following this step by step. The single green wire will plug in to the bullet connectors on Point A of the

ignition wiring harness The pair of wires (1 red and 1 green) will then plug in to your connector at point B in the ignition loom. And the Black ground wire I sandwiched between the dash trim and part of the mounting sub frame here.

Simply remove the screw with a Phillips screwdriver place the earthing washer between the metal part and the plastic dash then screw replace the screw making sure its tightened down nicely. This is roughly how your relay unit should look once its all connected up. Note that I also used small pieced of heat shrink over where the bullet connectors joined each other to make sure all wires where insulated.

Its now probably a good time to plug your button in to the relay unit and test to make sure everything is wired in correctly and that your unit is working. Annoyingly my original unit was faulty so I had to get this changed before proceeding. As long as everything is working as it should be then its time to proceed to step 6.

Step 6 Removing the Centre Console This is a pretty simple process as the centre console is just held in place with 6 white clips the same style as found on the lower dash trim in stop 1. I found it easier to use a small flat headed screw driver to slide down between the centre console panel and the silver console edging and they gently price the centre console upwards to release the clips being careful not to scratch the silver paint. The white arrows in this picture roughly show you where these clips are located.

This picture is of the underside of the centre console showing the white clips actual positions.

Step 6.1 Disconnecting the seat heater switches Now you have the centre console loose, and if you have heated seats you will need to carefully tilt the console toward you and unplug both connectors that go to the seat heater switches. This picture shows the connectors one white and one black. (on my car the white one plugged in to a corresponding white switch socket and the black plug obviously fitted in to the black switch socket, these sockets can be seen in the picture above)

Step 6.2 Freeing the gear shift gaiter from the centre console. I have the illuminated gear knob so could not be dealing with the bother to unplug the power for it then remove tape and unscrew it, then the hassle of fitting it again so Simply remove the 4 phillips head screws from around the underside of the centre console that retain the gear shift gaiter then gently push the gaitor and plastic surround through the bottom of the console panel.

The white arrows show the positions of each screw (one at each corner) I found it easier to tilt the console away to remove the ones opposite me then towards me to remove the screws closest to where I was sitting. Now this is all done all that is left to do it simply lift away the centre console to reveal your work space.

Step 6.3 removing the ashtray This again is simply a case of remove the 2 screws indicated by the white arrows in the picture below

then gently but firmly pulling the ashtray up and away from the dash in a diagonal motion. Taking care as there are cables attached to the back of this part. As shown in the next picture.

Step 7 Installing your Engine Start Button in your centre console panel. Now its time to decide exactly where you want your button, if like me you want it in the centre console between your gear shifter and the heated seat switches then its just a case of marking the exact position you want it in then carefully drilling the hole with your 30mm hold cutter and cordless drill. Once this is done, remove any stray plastic and clean the hold up. Place the start button through the hole to try it for size. As long as it fits then all you now need to do it place the supplied rubber O ring over the back of the start button then install the 38mm retention nut on top of that, make sure its straight then tighten down with your 38mm spanner (as I only had a 36mm spanner I just made sure mine was very tight using my fingers and it seems to have done the trick) This is how it should look once in place.

Step 8 Installing the start button wire Your start button should already some with a length of wire already connected to it, so its now just a case of threading it through and under where the ashtray will go till you can pull it through under the steering column and plug it in to your relay box.

once you have it threaded through the dash and connected to the relay box ensure that you leave enough cable under your start button so that if you need to remove the centre console its easy and can be placed on the passenger seat without having to disconnect the wire from the relay box. Then I secured the start button wire to the side or my illuminate gear knob wire

with some small cable ties just to keep everything neat and tidy.

Now with everything connected up where it will go I would give it one final test before replacing the centre console back in the reverse order that it all came apart.

ready for pre assembly test. Step 9 Securing the relay unit and wires and reassembly This is pretty self explanatory and is simply a case of making sure all your sires are neat and tidy and will not catch on anything. I simply cable ties them

together through a look in the metal strut you see pictured then secured the relay box to the green loom seen in the picture below with another 2 cable ties.

Once this is all done, make sure nothing is going to flip of move. Then reassemble the steering column trims around the steering column. Step 10 THE MOST IMPORTANT STEP!!! Sit back marvel at your handy work and enjoy your new cool toy.