February 7 2013

L I F E STYLE
R EC I P E S I W I N E I R E V I E W S

75

www.advertiser.ie

FOOD wine
Upstairs at McCambridges
Ah McCambridges, how do I love thee? Let me count the ways. Is there any other Galway shop that gives so much? McCambridge's familyowned grocers and fine foods shop has been at the heart of Galway life since 1925, always continuing to improve and provide a service that is second to none. When I was in need of Seville oranges it was head chef Heather Flaherty who answered my feeble Twitter cries with a basketful put aside in the storeroom. At Christmas time, Natalie, part of the McCambridge dynasty, was spotted with basket in hand, helping an elderly gentleman find an extensive list of ingredients for his (or more likely his spouses) Christmas baking. They are certainly hands on. There are things for the tourist market, of course, but also many essentials for the home cook who is serious about quality Irish ingredients, a large range of organics, superb wines, great artisan meats and pats, breads, coffees, yogurts, smoothies, Irish cheese, and a comprehensive stock of craft beers and whiskies. I had popped into the charming new eatery soon after it opened but it was not quite 'there' yet. Too ambitious a menu, growing into a new space, and the usual staff teething problems were all in evidence. I returned for lunch with my current husband recently and I can confidently report that they have indeed arrived, and then some. The room is beautiful, touches of industrial steel, period detailing, and high ceilings all blend seamlessly. Up the sweep of the stairs over the coffee dock and you will find a space which has been maximised to take in a breakfast, lunch, and the more limited dinner trade, with a handsome wine rack built into one wall. Blond and bespoke, the wooden furniture appealed especially to my current husband who is a designer by trade, and also managed to be comfortable. Style and substance in one. Every Sunday, it seems, the call goes out on Twitter Where in Galway shall we visitors to the city go for our brunch? A list of a few reliable eateries for these poor lost souls who might, but for my services to the tourist industry, stumble into one of the relatively few bad breakfasts left in the city. I had one of those recently. What a shock to the system that there are still places where they can ruin what amounts to just eggs, bread, and a few bits and bobs, to the point where they are inedible. Then to cap it off by not even asking you why you had not eaten them, while the waitress sings loudly along with the soundtrack in the style of a bad X-Factor audition. Oh, the torture. So, I usually reply with all my favourites, Kai, Ard Bia, The Kitchen at the Musuem for something fancy, or The Kings Head, Cellar, or Home Plate for a big fry. McCambridges also does a great breakfast. On the strength of the 'baked beans' alone McCambridges must be added to the 'great Galway breakfast' recommendation list. Sticky sweet and full of porky pieces and served on sourdough toast, the Ponaire coffee. From the lunch specials we tried the blood peach bellini and traditional lemonade (without the optional prosecco or gin), lovely fresh and fruity concoctions with bobbing berries. The lunch special of a wrap with toasted butternut squash, hummus, and goats cheese with side salad was very substantial for 7.95 and seemed very popular, as were the sharing platters among the couples. We also picked from the choice of sharing platters, seafood, vegetarian, or cheese, going for the charcuterie option. McGeoughs air dried lamb, almond saucisson, coppa, bresaola, On the Pigs Back County Terrine, brandy and garlic pat piled high on a wooden board with Cumberland sauce and other accompaniments for 11.95, all delicious and

Sausages, chips and beans...

available from the downstairs deli. An order of the venison sausages with the inclusion of the home 'baked beans' completed our hearty lunch. Then the reality hit me had we really just ordered sausages, chips, and beans? Oh yes we had! But the nicest sausage, chips, and beans you are likely to find. The venison was dense, meaty and garlicky, the chips skinny cut and perfectly crisp and served with a very good cucumber pickle and Guinness mustard. The staff were attentive and professional throughout, coping gracefully with the queue forming periodically. They even kindly wrapped up the remainder of my coveted beans as I broke the habit of a lifetime and got my first ever 'doggy bag'. I am in general not a big fan of half eaten things cluttering up the fridge, but these did not stay there for long. A splash of tabasco, a piece of good toast, St Tola's goat cheese crumbled over, and they made for an excellent supper. All in all McCambridges remains one of the lifebloods at the heart of the city and it is wonderful to see such a long established grocery shop diversifying and moving with the times. Long may it continue. McCambridges, 38-39 Shop Street, Galway. For queries, orders and restaurant reservations phone 091 562259, email retail@mccambridges.com Restaurant hours: Mon Wed 9am 6.30pm, Thurs Sat 9am 10pm, Sunday 10.30am to 5.30pm. Open on Sundays for all day brunch in the restaurant and normal deli, grocery, and coffee downstairs.

&

with Anne Marie Carroll

breakfast of champions. The rest of the breakfast menu reads like the 'who's who' of artisan and local producers Pigs On The Green sausages, Collerans pudding, Kilbeggan porridge, Kinvarra smoked salmon. Prices are competitive with their priciest item, the Irish artisanal breakfast, at just 8.95 not compromising one bit on cheaper, low standard, ingredients. In a

time when consumers are more conscious of where the food on their plate originates, this is value for what is an excellent product. There is a large selection of cakes on display all day, rocky road, chocolate layer cake, a pecan pie, or blood orange bakewell, available by the slice for a mid-morning or afternoon pick-me-up with a scoop of the famous Murphy's ice cream and a

Wildes Restaurant
AT LISLOUGHREY LODGE

Ashford, Cong, Co Mayo - Just 40 minutes from Galway

Excellent, locally sourced produce & exceptional service await your arrival...
Dinner
Wildes opens nightly from 18.30 serving a 3 course Table dhte Menu

38.00 per person

Sunday Lunch
Served from 13.00-15.30 each Sunday - enjoy 3 fantastic courses for just

25.00 per person

To book a table now, call

094 95 45 400
reception@lisloughreylodge.com
lisloughreylodge.com
CONG, CO. MAYO