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Author:Improbable Construct
Improbable Construct My Name is Brandon Fischer. I am a Theatrical Rigger and Carpenter. I like to build, make, and void warranties. Please visit my Etsy shop. http://www.etsy.com/shop/ImprobableConstruct
Image Notes 1. 5/16" steel rod 2. 1" angle iron 3. 2.5" narrow hinges
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4. 1/4"x2" bolts and nuts 5. 1.25" screws 6. Hunk of wood. I switched this out for a 2x4.
Step 2: Cutting
First thing you need to do is cut the steel. I used my 4x6 band saw to do this. Cut 3 - 5" pieces and 2 - 2.5" pieces of angle iron. Cut 10" of the 5/16" rod for the handle.
Step 3: Setup
Grab 2 of the 5" pieces of angle iron and clamp them into a vice as shown in the first picture. It is very important they are aligned perfectly. Next, take the last 5" piece and clamp it with vice grips as shown in the second picture. Again, make sure this lines up perfectly with the first two pieces. Then, get your hinges and set them on the angle iron as shown in the third picture. The hinges should sit tightly in the corner formed by the three pieces of angle iron.
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Image Notes 1. Again, this all needs to line up perfectly on both ends!
Image Notes 1. Set the hinges in position. They should sit nice and tight into the corner.
Step 4: Welding
Get your welder setup and tack the hinges onto the vertical and horizontal angle iron faces. Unclamp the vice grips and check that the hinges move freely. If all is well, clamp it back down and fill all the screw holes with welds. If it is binding, break the tack welds, check your alignment and try again. Next, unclamp the vice grips and flip the hinged piece so the hinges are closed. Careful it may be HOT from welding! Take the10" piece of steel rod and weld it to the angle iron as shown in the fourth picture. Center it and make sure it is square. You'll notice that you didn't weld the third piece of angle iron onto the break. You can set it aside for now. We will come back to it later. Note: The pictures show some modifications I made to the angle iron to allow some very close step bends. I needed to bend 0.5" step bends and, obviously, 1" angle iron would not allow this. You can skip to the end to see why I cut the angle the way I did. If you don't need opposite bends any closer together than 1" you will not have to do this.
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Image Notes 1. I already welded the handle on in this picture. Pretend it isn't there.
Image Notes 1. Hinge closed. Weld the 5/16" rod onto the angle iron. 2. This piece will not be attached when you remove the steel from the vice. Set it aside we will use it again later.
Image Notes 1. It should look like this when the handle is welded on.
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Image Notes 1. Drill 1/4" through the wood. 2. Drill 1/4" through the wood.
Image Notes 1. 1/16" offset. This distance should be the thickness of your material. You can make multiple pieces for different thicknesses.
Image Notes 1. Push the bolts up through the bottom and put the nuts on top.
Step 6: Guides
I added a final pair of angle iron pieces to my brake to speed up the alignment process. Grab the two shorter pieces you cut earlier. Drill two 1/8" holes in each one as shown in the first picture. Positioning is not critical here. Next place the pieces on the back edge of the brake as shown in the second picture. Be sure to position each piece inside of the bolt at the end of the main brake section. Use a square to square each piece to the break, and screw each piece to the wood.
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Image Notes 1. Drill some 1/8" holes in the shorter angle iron pieces.
Image Notes 1. It dosent look like it in this shot but the guide is inside the nut and bolt. 2. Square the guide to the brake and screw it down.
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Image Notes 1. Bend a square! 2. Here is the finished product! I don't know what you would need this for but here it is. 3. Being able to bend a square can be useful! This one is not! I didn't do any measuring. 4. Thanks for looking! Please check out my Hidden Bookshelf Light Switch! http://www.instructables.com/id/Hidden-Bookshelf-Light-Switch/
Image Notes 1. Make sure the angle iron sits level on the material you are bending. 2. I used a nut driver to tighten and loosen the nuts. You don't need a lot of torque here.
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Image Notes 1. Remove the nuts and angle iron to remove the bent piece.
Image Notes 1. Make sure the angle iron sits level on the material you are bending. 2. I used a nut driver to tighten and loosen the nuts. You don't need a lot of torque here.
Image Notes 1. This is where cutting off this side of the angle comes into play. to get the bend 1/2" from the other bend i need to remove some steel.
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Image Notes 1. Because there is not a lot of metal left I only got a partial bend here.
Image Notes 1. Just slide the piece to the other side and finish the bend. 2. From the edge of the hinge to the edge of the angle iron is 1/2" 3. From the clamp edge across the hinge and to my cut is 1/2"
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Image Notes 1. Bend a square! 2. Here is the finished product! I don't know what you would need this for but here it is. 3. Being able to bend a square can be useful! This one is not! I didn't do any measuring. 4. Thanks for looking! Please check out my Hidden Bookshelf Light Switch! http://www.instructables.com/id/Hidden-Bookshelf-Light-Switch/
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