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How to Win at Dave & Busters Games Version 4.

0 - April 2012 By: Michael Lucas (MewtwoStruckBack)

Hello Redditors and Youtubers; thank you for reading my FAQ. Usually, one would not think of an arcade as a place to enjoy oneself and blow a few bucks playing games, rather than coming out ahead and leaving with prizes worth more than what was spent. Over about twenty years of playing in arcades, 12 of which in Dave & Buster's, I've found that it's entirely possible to not only break even, but turn a profit by playing games. This guide will hopefully show you how to do just that. This FAQ is all about something I like to call min-maxing minimizing your output, while maximizing your return, to create the biggest possible profit. There are several ways to do this; spending the minimum amount of money on gameplay chips, and spending the least number of those chips to get a large number of tickets. This guide will cover all of that, and whether or not certain games are worth playing. Many people - fellow Redditors, fellow advantage players, and my own family have asked me why I would distribute this information for free. Well, there are a few reasons. First, information was meant to be free. I despise the idea of people paying for what should be common knowledge. If someone wants to give me something because this guide helped them, they're free to do so, but I'm not putting out this guide in any effort to get rich. (Funny enough, someone plagiarized my guide after my original Reddit AMA, took out half the useful information, and tried to sell it on eBay and Amazon. I didn't even realize this, but apparently everyone else who was giving him 1-star reviews sure did.) This guide will always be free from here on in; if you paid for any variant of this guide, most likely it was ripped off from my own, and you should employ whatever methods are available to obtain a refund from the fraudulent seller. Second, there's a balance that needs to be struck with giving out information. If you give out every single method to the point where the arcades will be overwhelmed with advantage players, they'll have no choice but to change the game payouts or settings to make it unprofitable. This has happened to me in the past, and trust me, it's no fun trying to learn a new game because your previous cash cow has run dry. On the same token, being overly secretive causes you to miss out on opportunities; a fellow advantage player, Chris (SteelCityAudio) showed up at Dave & Buster's with a printout of my guide in hand, and he's actually shown me some things on games I'd never noticed before, having the both of us making more playing video games than we'd ever thought possible with improved techniques. Chris has contributed to some parts of this version of the guide, namely the Tippin' Bloks and Chip Away Sub-FAQs. If I kept all of my information to myself, I never would have met Chris, and neither of us would be making

as much as we are during our time down at D&B. (Don't worry - the only thing I'm holding back from this guide is a video that I was specifically asked not to upload while a certain game was still set to a high payout, as it would make it ridiculously easy for people to go to D&B in droves and wreck the game to the point they'd most likely outright remove it. By the time this guide is out there, the video will exist, but privately if you've met me IN PERSON at any point past April 12th, 2011 you've already seen me do it in person.) Finally, I'd like to mention the importance of openness - and just as important, openness being a two-way street. At the time the last version of this FAQ was written, I was angry because two of my most profitable games had been altered or removed, and I felt betrayed. But being open with the management at D&B - and in turn, them being open with me in regards to procedures - has led to a much better situation for all involved down there. (Namely, they promoted the right people - and when they promote someone to Midway Manager who was a game tech himself for several years, said Midway Manager is not so quick to vilify someone for being an advantage player as others might be - he's seen it more closely from the other end and knows how to balance a guest winning more than he puts in vs. the overall profit the location makes!) As such, I'm adding an entire section to this guide in regards to what to do should you be lucky enough to be turning a major profit from your local D&B, as far as keeping that gravy train rolling so you don't go down there one day an unexpectedly find your game rendered no longer playable. I've babbled enough. Let's get to the good stuff. A. B. C. D. E. F. Getting the best deal on your play Getting the best deal on your prizes eBay purchases Regular games Chip Games Advantage Playing - not just for the games!

A. Getting the best deal on your play For those of you who havent been there, Dave and Busters isnt like your normal arcade. It operates on a swipe card, which you charge with chips, or points that are used to play games. Certain dollar amounts give you more chips to work with. So how much should you charge your card with? Lets look at how much chips cost to find out. $10 48 chips (20.8333 cents per chip)

$20 100 chips (20 cents per chip) $25 135 chips (18.5185 cents per chip) $35 200 chips (17.50 cents per chip) $50 300 chips (16.66 cents per chip) Theres also an option called supercharging your card that is, adding an extra $2-$5 (depending on amount) that gives you 25% more chips. This changes things fairly drastically. Heres the Supercharge table: $12 60 chips (20 cents per chip) $23 125 chips (18.4 cents per chip) $28 169 chips (16.56 cents per chip) $39 250 chips (15.6 cents per chip) $55 375 chips (14.66 cents per chip) As of October 2008, theyve added two new amounts, and a new feature. $75 550 chips (13.63 cents per chip) $100 750 chips (13.33 cents per chip) The new feature is the 4-player pack if you charge 4 cards with $25, $35, or $50, you get the supercharge for free. Under that math: $25 * 4 = $100 676 chips (14.79 cents per chip) $35 * 4 = $140 1,000 chips (14 cents per chip) $50 * 4 = $200 1,500 chips (13.33 cents per chip) As you can see, the $100 charge for 750 chips, and the 4-player pack for $50 per card are the best value. So as a single player, the $100 is best, and for a group, the 4player pack (or $100 on each card.) This is a fairly decent improvement over the $53 supercharge being the best value in the past about a 7% discount. *Coupons and Bouncebacks These are the two other things that can change the price you pay per chip for normal gameplay. Although rare in the past, there are Buy $10, get $10 free coupons floating around now. If you have these coupon books in your area, there will be a page containing four of these coupons for your local D&B. This would give you 96 chips (48 + 48) for $10, or 10.4166 cents per chip significantly better than even the $100 deal can provide. However, this requires an unlimited supply of coupons, which usually isnt viable. The best way to run these would be the $100 charge plus the get $10 free coupon 798 chips for $100, 12.53 cents per chip. HOWEVER, some locations no longer allow

you to stack a smaller coupon on a larger amount. I've asked people from other locations and gotten a different answer almost every time.

Bouncebacks are offers where you get free play later for purchasing something now. Im referring to the holiday promotion Dave and Busters runs each year, where purchasing a $50 gift card will be rewarded with a coupon for $10 in free game play, valid the first two months of the following year. The gift card is usable immediately and more importantly, the offer stacks purchasing a $500 gift card will earn 10 of the $10 free play coupons. So a smart player might purchase a $100 gift card, pocket 96 chips worth of free play for the new year, then charge their card with that $100 plus a Buy X get $10 couponor, if allowed, ten Buy $10 get $10 coupons. While these are only of concern the last week of November and the month of December, theyre significant enough to warrant spending additional money during the holidays, unless you plan on only using the $10 free coupons mentioned above. NEW for 2011/2012: The old Gold rewards program has since been removed, in favor of a new one that also qualifies as a bounceback. For every $100 spent at D&B, you get 48 chips free on your power card. This isn't mathematically equivalent to 10% as the old Gold was, but the old Gold didn't affect 1/2 price day and you can still get these extra chips on 1/2 price day spending. This 48 chip bonus on $100 spent is still good combined with other coupons, which will only further your profit margins. I don't factor these extra 48 chips into my calculations as far as a machine's profitability, nor do I include coupons in those figures, but you should know those bonuses are there and take advantage of them. On this note - MARK AMMANN, right-wing Christian nutjob that's been spamming the hell out of the Dave & Buster's Facebook page about bringing back the Gold Rewards program; SHUT THE FUCK UP. You've gone as far as to post that you'd give up 1/2 price game days permanently to get back the Gold rewards program. If you had half a brain, you'd realize that being able to take advantage of 1/2 price, plus the new program, far exceeds the 3.6% difference you lose out on between the new program and the old Gold 10% discount. You're not winning friends by spamming their page, the only people liking that status are the friends you brought on to try and back you up, I've reported you to their corporate office for harrassment, and I hope they ban you from every Dave & Buster's nationwide

B. Getting the best deal on your prizes Okayso youve got your chips, now what can you do with them? If youre reading this guide, you obviously want to make a profit, or at the very worst break even, spending the same amount for something at D&B that you would in a store.

Dave and Busters generally tends to price its prizes so that every ticket is worth close to one half of one cent. So 200 tickets would come to $1, and 10,000 tickets would come to $50 for example. The best normally available deal on chips, as stated above, is $100 = 750 chips, or 13.33 cents per chip. That means that since each penny is 2 tickets, each chip you spend should earn 26.66 cents per ticket in order to break even. For most of the smaller prizes, this is pretty much dead on. For the bigger stuff, there are some exceptions, which Ill go over. There are some prizes you should grab at Dave and Busters at first opportunity, and some you should wait for a price drop on, or just avoid altogether. Some examples: *The iPad HD (16GB Wi-Fi) - Dave & Buster's first Special-Order prize since the Sharp Image Catalog, 120,000 tickets will get an iPad HD shipped to your local D&B for you to pick up within about a week. During the previous holiday season, it was easy to dump these for about $510; even though 120,000 tickets equals out to $600 in value, being able to flip these quickly makes up for the lost value. *The iPod Touch (32GB) - this is a bit bigger hit to take, but the price has stayed consistent in the stores so it's still worth looking at. 68,000 tickets = $340, in-store these are $300 + tax, which usually has you around $320. If you're selling 'em you're most likely getting between 270-280 for 'em, about a 20% hit, but this can be mitigated with good play on the right machines. *Xbox 360 games they've raised the price on these a bit, but for new games, these are still a decent deal. They're generally 12,500 tickets for a new release, which would equal out to $62.50. Most new 360 games are $60 + tax in the store, and unless you live somewhere there's less than a 4% tax rate, you're doing better purchasing them here. *Wii/PS3 games - the Wii games are usually only $50, so you'd be taking a small hit at that price. PS3 games are pretty much equivalent to the 360. Game consoles are generally only a good deal if the system is new; the minute the price drops in stores on the system, it's generally knocked out of being profitable at D&B. That, and you're also competing with the used sytem market which has gotten ridiculously cheap lately. So don't pick up Wiis, 360s, or PS3s at D&B right now, but if a new console comes out, like the Playstation Vita, and D&B has it at a fair price, it'll be worth looking at. Basically, for anything else, use the 200 tickets = $1 rule. If you can get it cheaper elsewhere, then save your tickets for a better deal.

C. eBay

Recently, more and more players are beginning to sell their Power Cards on eBay; this can be an easy way to get chips and tickets below their retail value with some patience (or finding a cheaply-listed Buy it Now before someone else does.) As mentioned above, each gameplay chip has a fair market value of 13.33 cents; each ticket has a fair value of 0.5 cents. So, for example, a card with 100,000 tickets and 1,000 chips would be calculated out as follows: 100,000 tickets * 0.005 = $500.00 1,000 chips * 13.33 = $133.33 The total value of such a card would be $633.33. But theres no point in purchasing Power Cards on eBay unless theyre being purchased at discount; I would only pay about 85% of a cards actual value, given that chips can be obtained below their normal price with the coupons and promos, and tickets can be won below their market value as well with the strategies in this guide. Having said that, I wouldnt pay more than $540 for such a card. Long story short, ((Tickets * 0.005) + (Chips *0.13333)) * 0.85 should be the most you pay for any card on eBay. Before going all-out in purchasing cards from eBay, be aware that there IS legalese on the cards that says selling or transferring ownership of the cards renders them null and void. While this usually is not an issue, and is rarely ever enforced, D&B does watch its large-ticket cards - namely to make sure there's nothing fraudulent going on with obtain ing the tickets - and a move from one location to another would definitely raise a red flag.

D. Regular Games So you know how you need to spend your money, you know what prizes are a good deal for the tickets youd earn, so how do you get the tickets? You have to play the games, and be good enough at them to win enough tickets to come out ahead. In this section Ill cover each game present in my local D&B that gives out tickets, how it works, how much it costs to play, and what you need to do to break even. *NOTE: For the break-even calculations, Ill be going by the $100 = 750 chip price of 13.33 cents per chip, and Im assuming you have a Gold Card. If you are spending less than $100 at a time, you'll need to adjust your math accordingly. NOTE, NEW FOR MARCH 2012 GUIDE - Half-price Wednesdays have pretty much been established as a permanent part of Dave & Buster's; I don't see them

discontinuing that any time soon. Therefore, I'm going to include both the regular and 1/2 price figures in each game's write-up.

*2-Minute Drill 5.5 chips regular, 2.8 chips 1/2 price 250 ticket jackpot (constant), high score to obtain jackpot varies and changes based on play 2-minute drill is a pretty simple football-throwing game. It includes 3 holes to throw balls through - a very large hole ("Screen Pass") at the bottom that awards 20 yards, a moderate-sized hole ("Play Action") above it that awards 30 yards, and a much smaller one at the top ("Long Bomb") for 50 yards. In addition, there are 4 pop-out targets that, if hit, awards either 20, 40, or (once per game) 99 yards. You don't get a full two-minutes; rather at the speed the time counts down, you have roughly 45 seconds of gameplay. The score to win the jackpot is generally 500 yards, however once you achieve that jackpot, the next jackpot score is between 10 and 30 yards higher than the one you just earned. This means that there's one very big part of this strategy that cannot be overlooked... *WHEN YOU BEAT THE JACKPOT SCORE, DO SO BY AS LITTLE AS POSSIBLE.* In the video on my YouTube account, you can see that I often stop playing with a fair bit of time left on the clock. When the game required 500 points, I got 509. When it required 526 points, I got 529. When it needed 552, I got 559. You want to ever so slightly beat the jackpot score so that it doesn't go up a huge amount, and you can milk the game for as many jackpots as possible that day. Note that after about 5 or 6 losing plays where the jackpot is not achieved, the jackpot score goes down about 25 or so points. So eventually people that don't know what they're doing may end up bringing the score back down to a reasonable level after you've racked it up to unreachable levels. Also note that THE MACHINE'S MINIMUM JACKPOT SCORE RESETS IF THE MACHINE IS TURNED OFF AND BACK ON. This means that it is a good idea to, if you live near a D&B, go and play this game early in the morning, as it will be at its minimum score then. It is NOT, however, a good idea to manually unplug and plug in the game yourself, as given the circumstances, this could be seen as cheating and would give D&B a good reason to revoke your tickets/bar you from the premises. However, if the machine is acting oddly for some reason (pop-out target not acting right, sensors in the scoring holes not working 100%), you can ask the tech to power cycle it as part of making sure everything is in working order after they've

fixed it, which will allow you to get another full run of jackpots without running afoul of the rules. A bit of social engineering will do well here. My strategy here is simple - throw balls sideways, like a shovel pass, at the 30yard hole. It's wide enough that you won't have a problem getting them through, and with the football being sideways, if one of the edges hits the side of the hole, it will generally bounce in rather than back at you, like it would if you were throwing a pass normally. Additionally, it's also better to throw the ball at the pop-out targets the same way, as you have a wider area that can come into contact with the target. ALWAYS HOLD ONE BALL BACK for pop-out targets until you've gotten the 99-yard target, as that one only shows up once per game. Hitting the 30 constantly and getting the 99 when it shows up will generally get you enough to get a good few jackpots out of the game. *If the machine has 5 balls in it, you can consistently get the jackpot score up to about 700 yards before it becomes unplayable. *If the machine has 6 balls in it, you will usually be able to get close to or at 800 points. *If you're lucky enough to have a 7-ball machine, you'll be getting to 900 points with that set of skills. The breakeven: 5.5 chips = 73.33 cents = 147 tickets per play to break even. winning every other game isn't enough to break even, but winning 2 out of 3 would turn a bit of a profit. If you're playing this game though, it should be with intent to win the jackpot every single game, until the score is high enough that you know you won't be able to win. My verdict: PLAY IT! Get the 509, 529, 559, 579, 609, 639, 659, 689, and 709 jackpots for a quick 2,250 tickets each time you walk in the door if you don't have the skills for the more profitable games down yet.

*Big Bass Wheel 9.9 chips regular/5.0 chips Gold Jackpots 500, 1,000 tickets http://www.bhmvending.com/Amusements/Baytek/baytek_Big_Bass_Wheel.html This wheel most resembles the wheel from The Price is Right you give it a big spin, and get whatever the wheel lands on. Its big, its flashy, and the big ticket bonuses reel people in (pun intended.) But its also a horrible deal.

The 500 and 1,000 spaces are nowhere near as big as the rest of the wheel Id estimate that the 500 space is 1/7th of a normal space (the rest of that space is 4 tickets) and the 1,000 space is 1/9th of a normal space (also 4 tickets on the rest of that space.) At my local location, the wheels values were as follows: 1000 50 60 40 150 500 40 80 70 500 40 60 40 70 500 40 80 70 With the 500 space being a 1/7 hit, the average value of that space is roughly 75 tickets; with the 1,000 space being a 1/9 hit, the average value is 115 tickets. So to get the average expected return, replace each 500 with 75, the 1,000 with 115, add all the spaces up, and divide by the total number of spaces (18). This comes to 68.333 tickets per play. The Break-Even: 9.9 chips = $1.32 per play = 264 tickets to break even. Even on 1/2 price day, 66.66 cents = 133 tickets to break even. My Verdict: AVOID AT ALL COSTS. The house edge on this game is 74% on normal days and 48% on 1/2 price days. Even under every promotion combined, this game isnt even going to get to break even.

*Chip Away 4.2 chips regular/2.1 chips 1/2 price (Varies by location:) 50 ticket minimum jackpot, raises by 2 for each play, maximum 250 OR 100 ticket minimum, raises by 2 per play, maximum 500-1,000 OR 250 ticket minimum, raises by 2 per play, maximum 1,000 Scores for winning vary WIDELY by location. My local D&B has: 0 3,000 points = 2 tickets 3,000 12,000 points = 12 tickets 12,000 40,000 points = 20 tickets 40,000 150,000 points = 30 tickets 150,000 points 300,000 points = 40 tickets 300,000 points 400,000 points = 60 tickets 400,000 points 500,000 points = 80 tickets 500,000+ = JACKPOT Some locations have a jackpot award at only 250,000 points, which lowers all the other requirements heavily as well.

THIS GAME HAS ITS OWN SEPARATE FAQ, which is included in the .zip file also containing this file. Chip Away is like Tetris, Columns, or any similar puzzle games. You get certain colors of chips, matching 3 touching chips of the same color makes them disappear, and getting rid of all the chips clears the level. There are various levels (that my future FAQ will cover), which award increasing points for each match. Basically, your job is to get 500,000 points, CONSISTENTLY. With my FAQ, that will be doable. Additionally, this game also has varying Insta-Prizes at my location, these are 20, 30, 40, and 50 tickets. Ive seen these vary at other locations by going from 10 to 100 tickets, and early versions even gave free games. Note that, by hitting the drop chip button a few times before actually swiping your credit, you can cycle to a screen that tells you what the next ten insta-prizes are. Obviously if you can find a machine where the next couple are very high, you have a much greater chance of breaking even or profiting. SPECIAL NOTE: This is a double-dip game that is, if youre playing a two-player game, and both players win the Jackpot, BOTH players will be given the higher jackpot before it resets to its minimum. So, on a 250 ticket max jackpot, once you know the game, you will be scoring 500 tickets plus your insta-prizes (if any). The Break-Even: 4.2 chips = 56 cents = 112 tickets per swipe. 1/2 price day requires 56 tickets per game to break even. My verdict: Depending on your location, this is either a vulture game or a constant play. Our location is set to the 100 minimum, 1,000 maximum. As it is, a 400,000 score + an insta-prize makes the game roughly breakeven on normal price day, so you'll need to be able to hit the jackpot to come out ahead.

*Cyclone 2.6 chips regular/1.3 chips Gold Jackpot now starts at 100 tickets and goes up by 2 per loss. From my understanding, the difficulty has been lowered to accommodate for this. Everyone whos been to an arcade that has ticket games knows this game. The light goes in a circle, with a bonus spot in the middle of that circle. If you stop the light on the bonus circle, you win the jackpot. If you miss, you get whatever ticket value you stopped the light on. (Usually the lights next to the jackpot at D&B locations that have this game are 6 tickets, though some are as high as 10 and others are as low as 2.) Also of note is that its possible for this game to be rigged to be extremely hard until a certain amount of money has been put into the game. The jackpots tend to go off at about 75-100 plays in, and you really only should be playing this if the jackpot is high anyway, which makes this decision easy.

The Break-Even: Each play costs 2.6 chips, so youre spending 34.66 cents so each play is costing you 69 tickets worth of money. When you miss, youre getting 10 tickets back, so thats 59 tickets per play you need to make up. However, with the starting jackpot at only 100 tickets, you'd need to hit on your first play to turn a profit, barring 1/2 price day. My verdict: Steer clear unless the jackpot is over 200 tickets, and don't play it more than twice.

*Deal or No Deal 7.7 chips regular/3.8 chips 1/2 price Jackpots vary by location; my local is 250 tickets for regular deal, and 500 tickets for Double Deal http://www.bhmvending.com/Amusements/ICE/ice_deal_or_no_deal.html This version of Deal or No Deal is similar to the show. Im going to assume that everyone knows how the normal game is played, and cut through the crap. This version has 16 cases; at my local D&B, these were 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 20, 26, 30, 40, 50, 100, 120, and 250. Other locations may have single-play jackpots of 400 or 500 tickets; youd need to adjust accordingly for the math on those. You pick your case, then knock out 5 cases, receive an offer, knock out 4 more, another offer, 3 more, another offer, 2 more, and the last offer comes. *SPECIAL NOTE The first three bank offers are always unfair. Ive done the math over several games to figure out the method they use. The expected offer should always be the total of all cases, divided by the number of cases. The first three offers are HALF that so, for example, if there were 600 tickets total on the board at the first offer, with 11 cases on the board, the normal offer should be 54 tickets, but the game will offer 27. The last offer will always be fair (when there are 2 cases left) so if the 300 tickets and 4 tickets are left on the board, the game will offer 152 tickets as the last offer. With the first three offers being bad, this forces the player to continue on until they either open their case or take the last deal, giving the player the illusion of having some control over the game when its just random chance whether or not you leave with any decent amount of tickets. (Can you tell I think this game is unfair as a whole?) The average payout of this game is, as what the offers SHOULD be, the total of the cases divided by the number of cases (16). This comes to 44.25 tickets. The Break-Even: 7.7 chips = $1.03 = 206 tickets breakeven

My Verdict: Steer clear. The house edge is roughly 78%. Even under 1/2 price, this game blows.

*Drill-O-Matic Price unknown - game removed from my local D&B years ago. 100, 250, or 500 ticket jackpots depending on location. This is the drill game you see at most arcadesyou have a big plastic drill, you position it so that it goes through one of the prize holes, and if it goes through, it pushes the prize into the prize chute and you win it. This version of the game also has ticket targets about the same size as the regular holes that give you the corresponding amount of tickets. Is it worth playing though? It depends on how well your location pays ticket-wise. The Break-Even: ??? - if anyone reading this FAQ can chime in regarding this game being at their location, payouts and costs, I'd appreciate it. My verdict: If theres a 500-ticket jackpot, learn and master this game. If theres a 250 ticket jackpot, and you know the game well enough already, then give it a try.

*Flamin Finger 3.2 chips regular, 1.6 chips 1/2 price 50, 100, or 250 ticket minimum jackpot (depending on location.) Raises of the jackpot seem to be random. This is the basic trace your finger through the maze on the screen until time runs out game. However, the timer gets faster as you get closer to the finish line, so you need to haul ass throughout the entire maze to win. My middle finger has a permanent callous from this game, so be careful! You get 14 or 16 (I forget which) mercy tickets for a loss. The Break-even: 42.66 cents per game = 85 expected tickets per game, minus the 14 or 16 mercy tickets for a loss. My verdict: Unless the minimum jackpot is 250 at your location, dont bother.

*Frogger 6.5 chips regular, 3.2 chips 1/2 price **EACH PLAY GIVES 3 FROGS** Jackpot varies by location, was 1,000, drop to 500 or less nearly everywhere.

(My location is currently 500.) This version of Frogger doesn't play like the one you might be used to at home instead of getting to move left or right, you hit a button and your frog jumps at a fixed speed, on a fixed path, trying to make it across logs and turtles to the end of the screen; making it all the way across to the lilypad awards a bonus. There are small bugs you can get on your first few "safe" jumps on land that award a nominal amount of tickets, female frogs on some of the logs that award between 30-50 tickets (used to be 50-100+), and a glowing mystery bug that flies semi-randomly that usually awards 50-80 or so. This game is probably the quickest I've ever seen a game at Dave & Buster's get changed, because it IS beatable, and it WAS getting killed nationwide. Apparently, there's a pattern to the logs and turtles - especially the log in the last row, the one that hardly ever appears that you need in the right place to get to the jackpot lilypad. Originally, the game gave 1,000 tickets for a jackpot, and allowed you an infinite amount of time to send the frog on his way, so a patient player could sit there and wait for the pattern to reveal itself and get the jackpot fairly consistently. This game actually had its firmware changed, and now you only get 30 seconds to hit the button sending your frog on its way, or else the game will do it automatically. This means no waiting 2 minutes for the winning pattern of logs and turtles to show itself. However, that doesn't mean it's impossible to win - you can still win 1 out of every 3 or 4 frogs or so. There are still people that come to our local D&B that do it fairly regularly - just not all day every Wednesday. The breakeven: 6.5 chips = 86.66 cents per play = 173 tickets PER 3 FROGS. If you can win the jackpot once every 3 swipes, you're breaking even. On 1/2 price day you only need to hit it maybe once every 7-9 swipes or so given the extra tickets you'll get along the way when you don't get the jackpot. My verdict: If your location hasn't done the firmware update that limits how long you have to send the frog, learn this, master it, and abuse it. If your location is still at a 1,000 ticket jackpot, definitely learn it. If it's 500 tickets and has the time limit, it still might be worth trying.

*Gone Fishing 3.8 chips regular, 1.9 chips 1/2 price 100 ticket minimum jackpot, maximum of 1,000 (or 500 or 250 depending on location). Jackpot rises 2 with each play. http://www.addictinggames.com/penguinswing.html?r=user_posted_link

Basically, its the arcade version of the above web game. You hit the penguin as far as you can. You either get 6 or 7 fish depending upon how the games configured, and only your top 5 count. (If you hit a certain number in a row, or hit the longest shot since the machines last reset, you get a Golden Fish which has an extra 10% or so of distance added to the hit.) Theres a specific spot you need to hit to send it the maximum distance. Hit it too early, and the fish will stick in the snow instead of bouncing further. Hit it too late, and you wont get enough distance on the bounce. Ideally, you should be getting between 120 and 140 feet before the fish makes first contact with the ground (but bounces.) The high score to win starts at either 1,000 or 1,200, and is set to (the current high score + 1). So it makes sense to try to beat the high score by as little as possible if you intend on winning again in the same daythough the jackpot resets so low that I usually dont recommend double-dipping on the same Gone Fishing machine in the same day. On the plus side, you do get tickets based on your total score, which maxes out at either 32 (7 fish version) or 40 (6 fish version) at 1,000 points, if your score isnt enough to get the jackpot which may be the case if someone else set the score fairly high. The break-even: 50.66 cents per play = 101 tickets expected per game. Youll get between 20 and 40 per play when you dont win that, combined with the value of the current jackpot, should tell you whether or not to play. My verdict: Only play if the high score to get the jackpot is fairly low, or the jackpot is extremely high. Youll need 5 absolutely perfect hits out of 7 or 8 fish (including the Gold Fish) in order to win, and sometimes youll still end up a few feet short. Additionally, DO NOT PLAY WHATSOEVER if the high score starts at 1,200.

*Hoopla 4.4 chips regular, 2.2 chips 1/2 price 50 / 100 / 150 ticket jackpots This game is so odd, I cant find anything about it on Google. Basically, its like the crane game where you try to pick up a prize, except youre controlling a ring instead of a crane, and you have to drop the ring when it will completely go around one of the targets, and if it goes around without getting caught on one of the edges, you win. There are three types of targets the 50-ticket ones, where the edges are sloped inward so a near-miss will slide into place, the 100-ticket ones, where the edges stand straight up, and the 150-ticket ones, where the edges of the target are sloped outward, so your placement has to be pretty much perfect not to get caught on an edge.

However, the crane starts at the same place every time, and if you can memorize the exact position it has to be in to win the 150 tickets, you can empty this thing of its tickets repeatedly. The Break-even: 3.5 chips = 58.66 cents, = 117 tickets per play to break even; 58-59 tickets required for breakeven on 1/2 price. So 50 tickets is never worth going for, 100 tickets is still a loss if you hit it every time, and 150 tickets requires you to win better than 2 out of every 3 times to break even, and starts generating a profit if you win every time. My verdict: Play it if youve mastered the 150 ticket spot, on 1/2 price day only.

*Hummer Off-Roadin' 3.9 chips regular, 2.0 chips 1/2 price Bonus values of 30-50-500 in some locations, 10-20-1,000 in others Hummer Off-Roadin' is a 3-stage game. Per the linked video, you can see that there's a light that swings back and forth like a pendulum, that you have to stop on the blue lights in the center of the screen. Doing so awards a small bonus and moves you onto the second stage. Hitting that center light awards a larger bonus and lets you play the third stage, for the jackpot. It's hard to tell whether or not this game is worth it because the light speed is operator-adjustable, and I don't have a way to tell whether or not the difficulty's been raised. Some players report not being able to win at all; others say they can win 1 out of every 4 games, and I hear everything in between. The breakeven is 3.9 chips = 52 cents = 104 tickets per play to break even. On 1/2 price day it's 26.66 cents = 53 tickets to break even. This is particularly significant because of the bonus values for the first two stages. If you're at a location that's set to 30-50-500, then on 1/2 price day just hitting the first two consistently would close to double your money. Jackpots above and beyond that would just be extra profit on top of an already beatable game. My verdict: If it's set easily enough to allow semi-consistent jackpots and for the first two levels to always be hit, this is definitely a game that should be added to your repertoire.

*Jumpin Jackpot

3.9 chips regular, 2.0 chips 1/2 price 1/2/3 swipes per play, with 100/200/300 ticket jackpots respectively This game is a virtual jump rope, with a light you have to jump over a certain number of times to successfully collect the jackpot. It can be won on every play, but you need to be quite skilled in timing your jumps to do so. Those who play Dance Dance Revolution at a high level can usually do this. The skill required to win is the same on all three levels, so theres no real advantage to playing more credits, unless you can win every time, then it saves you time and energy to play on the 3-coin while still making the same profit. The Break-even: Each play is 3.9 chips, meaning 52 cents per play, so 104 tickets per swipe in. This means even winning the jackpot every time is a small loss, unless playing 1/2 price day where it's 52 tickets per swipe to break even My verdict: Play if you can win every single time, on 1/2 price day only.

*Match Em Up 2.9 chips regular, 1.2 chips 1/2 price 50 / 100 / 150 / 250 ticket minimum jackpot (depending on location), raises by 2 for each play. http://www.highwaygames.com/print.php3? machine_id=1650&view=&review=&print=no Basically, this is a ridiculously easy version of the second half of Speed Demons game. Usually, the light is moving slow enough that any given player can get 7-7-7 on any play (depending on settings.) The website linked to above should explain anything else. The Break-even: 38.66 cents per play = 77 tickets expected per game, 38-39 on 1/2 price day *SPECIAL NOTE: If you are playing two linked machines at once (linked meaning they share the same Jackpot), and you get two 7s on each of them, get the 3rd 7 on one and immediately jump over and hit the 3rd 7 on the next machine within two seconds of getting the first jackpot youll get the higher jackpot on both machines before it resets to the minimum. If the jackpot has risen particularly high, you should always double dip if possible. My verdict: Vulture tactics. Swoop in, hit the high jackpot, and leave. You need 77 tickets to even break even, so use that to make your decision.

*Mega Stacker 9.9 chips regular, 5.0 chips 1/2 price Small bonus is 200 tickets, large bonus is 1,000 This game plays very much like the regular Stacker machine you often see in arcades and malls. Having said that, it's very much RIGGED like those Stacker games. It's the standard "get a stack of flashing lights to the top of the screen" game, but set so that if the game doesn't want you to win, it will jump right off of the winning space and onto a losing one somewhere along the way. Hell, most locations are set so that the game will cheat you out of the smaller prize every so often! Basically, this becomes a vulture game - wait for many other people to lose, go up, play it, win, and quit. There is talk of having the game dispense larger prizes in the future, like Wiis, 360s, etc. like a normal stacker. If that's the case, then 1/2 price day might be used to get those at a discount (given that they'll have to rig the game to all hell with a much higher coin-in to accomodate for the larger prizes.) The breakeven: 9.9 = $1.32 = 264 tickets to break even, on 1/2 price day you need 133 tickets to break even. My verdict: Vulture it, otherwise leave it alone.

*Raptor Captor ??? chips (need info!) 500 / 1,000 ticket jackpot (depending on location) http://fivestarredemption.com/raptor_captor.htm Weve all seen this game you launch a ball into play, attempting to get it into various holes on the playfield. The harder the hole is to get the ball into, the more tickets you score. If you play a 5-ball game (requiring 4 swipes of your card), and get the ball into all 5 bonus holes, you win the jackpot. However, this game is as hit-or-miss as Slam-A-Winner, if not moreso. Based on the size of the ball and how you launch it into play, its almost impossible to get any consistent strategy to work. Barring a lucky bounce (or series of them), youll usually lose this game. The Break-even: I don't know the current cost now, but I do remember that barring being able to hit the 60 ticket slot in the upper area with every play, it wasn't worth it.

My verdict: AVOID AT ALL COSTS.

*Slam-A-Winner 4.2 chips regular, 2.1 chips 1/2 price *** Each swipe gives 3 balls *** JACKPOTS LOWERED as of March 2012 - 100 ticket minimum, goes up 2 for every play http://www.bmigaming.com/games-arcade-ticketredemption-ss.htm Slam-A-Winner is iffy some people can win constantly, and some have played hundreds of balls never to score a single jackpot. The secret of winning this game is to time the hit of the button so the ball slams right into the jackpot hole without even touching the protective ring that usually prevents players from winning. (A ball that bounces around will usually never bounce into the jackpot hole, because of this protective ring.) Expect MANY near-misses and in-and-out ballsbut thanks to the 3-balls-percredit mode that D&B uses, you have lots of room for error. The Break-even: 4.2 chips = 56 cents which = about 112 tickets per swipeat 3 balls each, thats 37.33 tickets per ball. Unless you can hit the jackpot better than 1 out of 3, it's not worth it. My verdict: Used to be worth playing with vulture tactics. Avoid this game at all costs now.

*Slam-A-Winner EXTREME 9.9 chips regular, 5.0 chips 1/2 price *** Each swipe gives 3 balls *** JACKPOTS LOWERED as of March 2012 - 100 ticket minimum, goes up 2 per play. This is the same as regular Slam-A-Winner, except its HUGE (a picture of it is on the same page as the regular Slam-A-Winner page I linked to above.) I have seen video of someone able to hit the jackpot every time...but given the price, it's no longer worth it. The Break-even: 9.9 chips per play = $1.32 per play = 264 tickets per 3 balls. At this rate, you'd need to win the jackpot every single game to win a 10% profit, barring 1/2 price day, where you'd need to win on every other ball for that same 10%. My verdict: AVOID AT ALL COSTS.

*Slide Master 2.8 chips regular, 1.4 chips 1/2 price Depending on location, either 100 or 250 ticket minimum jackpot. No known maximum. Jackpot rises 2 with each play and resets on win. This game is a skill game where an icon slides back and forth on a row of symbols hearts, clubs, spades, diamonds, and a lone 7 (in the center of the row.) Your mission, obviously, is to get three 7s to score the jackpot. The 2nd rows icon slides back and forth faster than the 1st, and the 3rd rows slides faster than the 2nd. However if you miss a 7, theres still hope to get back some of what you lost theres an insta-prize present on the 3rd row, which currently awards 20 tickets only. This game is learnable, and its possible to hit the triple 7s consistently if youre fast enough. This isnt the first game Id take to, but its a nice game to let other people build up a high jackpot for you, swoop in, hit the jackpot, and leave (Vulture tactics.) The Break-even: 2.8 chips = 37.33 cents per play = 75 expected tickets per game. Assuming you always hit the insta-prize when you miss a 7 on either of the first two rows, that gives you an expected loss of 55 tickets per game. Usually Ill only play this game if the jackpot is up to 250 tickets or more, so this would give me only a few plays before I started losing money. My verdict: Vulture it swoop in, hit the high jackpot, leave the scraps for everyone else.

*Solar Spin 2.6 chips regular, 1.3 chips 1/2 price 100 or 250 ticket minimum depending on location (ours is 100) goes up by 2 per play. Basically, all this is is Cyclone on a video screen. Its the exact same game. It can be won every time, however, with extreme skill usually it should take a good player only a few plays before they win. The Break-even: 34.66 cents per play = 69 tickets expected per game. My verdict: Only play when its over 200 tickets, dont spend more than 3 plays, and leave as soon as you hit.

*Speed Demon 3.2 chips regular, 1.6 chips 1/2 price

Easy version: 100-300 ticket jackpot minimum, goes up 2 for each miss, 500 ticket maximum Hard version: 250 ticket minimum, goes up 2 per miss, 1000 ticket maximum This game is fairly difficult to explain, so Im including a link to a description: http://www.baytekgames.com/games/details/?id=111 Basically, you have a 1 in 3 chance of getting the ball into a Speed Demon hole, and then its like playing Cyclone three times, attempting to stop on an arrow each time to advance. On the easy version (the three rings of light spin very slow, slow, and moderate speed), the jackpot can be won consistently on every play. On the hard version (rings are moderate, fast, and extremely fast), its a struggle to win. I can tell you right now the hard version isnt worth playing unless the jackpot is at its maximum and then you hit it once and walk away. On the first ring, if you miss the arrow youre usually getting 30 tickets. On the second ring, its 50. On the third ring, if you miss the jackpot, its usually 50 tickets. If you dont get a ball in the Speed Demon hole, you only get 2 tickets for that play. The Break-even: Each play is 3.2 chips, which = 42.66 cents, which = 85 tickets per play, getting back 2 on a loss. The minimum at our location is now 250; I usually won't touch it until it's 750, so I would have 7 or 8 balls before me not making money comes into question. The easy versions, from what I understand, are gone from all D&Bs. However the hard version is still vulturable.

*Spin-N-Win 9.9 chips regular, 5.0 chips 1/2 price 1,000 ticket jackpot This is tied for the most expensive single-play game at Dave and Busters and for good reason. This game CAN NOT be rigged for a player to not win. Ive read the manual personally. They can only change the number of milliseconds that the light stays on the jackpot space, and most Dave and Busters never do this. (The one in Westminster, Colorado has set theirs to 2, and is therefore the biggest piece of fail within the entire Dave and Busters franchise.) By default, you will have 5 milliseconds; this can be as low as 2 or as high as 20. Also, the game doesnt get harder based on how many people win or lose. Its ALL on your own skill. You can miss 30 times in a row even if the last person to play played horribly; you can hit 5 or 6 times in a row, and the next person can still walk up and win on their first game.

This game will eat your money faster than any other game at Dave and Busters, but it can MAKE you money faster than any other game if youre good at it. The Break-even: About $1.32 per game = 264 tickets expected per game. Since you get 20 tickets per loss (assuming youre going at the 1,000 and barely missing), hitting 1 out of every 4 times will just about break even; anything better and youre making good money -- $5 extra for every jackpot better you do than 1 in 4. (So if you play the game 100 times and win 30 of those times, youll have gone 5 better than the 25% average, and gotten $25 more in tickets than your money was worth.) On 1/2 price day, you only need about 1 in every 9 to break even, due to the 20s you get when you miss. *SPECIAL NOTE: You can continue to play this game while tickets are paying out! You dont have to wait for all 1,000 tickets to come out after hitting a jackpot. This enables a great player to rack up a huge ticket total on the machine. Dont worry about breaking the machine or having it lose your total although it only has a four digit counter, if you go over 10,000 it will keep track of that in hexadecimal at first (A000 = 10,000, B000 = 11,000 and so on), and go into weird symbols for 16,000 through 19,000. If you get it over 20,000 tickets owed (meaning youre as good at this game as I am), it will go back to showing a 7 as the first digit, but IT DID NOT DROP YOU DOWN TO 7,000 if you let it go back down it will go back through all the weird symbols again, then through F through A, and back through the last 10,000. *SPECIAL NOTE #2: DO NOT GET THE TOTAL TICKETS THE MACHINE OWES OVER 32,768. THIS WILL CRASH THE MACHINE AND RESET YOUR TICKETS TO 0. I know this, because I DID IT. (Thankfully, the managers knew I was telling the truth and credited my card for the full 33,500 tickets that were owed when the game crashed; however they warned against me putting the machine over 25,000 tickets in the future.) My verdict: If youve got the money to spend on this game, and your local version is still on its default settings, learn it, and master it. (you should be able to tell this within 15 plays at most, if you hit within 1 spot of the 1,000 that many times in a row, the game has been set harder than default) If you cannot play Tippin' Bloks consistently, and none of the other big moneymakers are playable for you, this is most likely your go-to game on 1/2 price day.

*Spin Streak 2.9 chips per swipe, 1.4 chips on 1/2 price day (up to 4 swipes per game) 100-1,000 ticket jackpot (depending on location)

Spin Streak is like an 8-way slot machine. You pay one credit for just the center line, a second credit for the upper and lower horizontal lines, a third credit for the diagonal lines, and a fourth credit for the three vertical columns. If you get a pair or three of a kind on any line youve played, you win. This is a skill game, and a RAPIDLY rotating light (much line on Speed Demon) lets you hit a button to stop on the symbol you want (ideally you are trying to get three sevens in a row.) If you line up certain combinations, youll get to a bonus round where you have a certain number of attempts, or a certain amount of time, to stop on trophies. If you get 9 trophies, you get the games maximum bonus. However, each chance you get to stop the rotating light has a built-in delay (on the first hit, the light will stop two spaces after you actually hit the stop button; on the last hit, the light might jump four, five, or six spaces.) This needs to be accounted for when playing. The Break-Even: Assuming the maximum number of swipes per game, 11.6 chips = $1.5466, or 309 tickets per game. Youd have to win pretty much every other game to get a profit out of this. My verdict: Its a viable game, but only if you can learn how to master hitting the 7s in the normal round and the trophies in the bonus round.

*Stop the Clock at 1,000 ??? chips (need info from a location that still has this game!) 100, 200, 300, 350, 400, or 500 ticket jackpot depending upon location This is the cheapest game at Dave & Busters, but was the most profitable one for the longest time. Basically, this game is a giant stopwatch. It starts at 5.00 seconds (500), and goes up to 11.00 seconds (1100). Your job is to hit the button when its exactly on 10.00 seconds (1,000), hence the name of the game. Score a 1,000 earns the jackpot; near-misses award a fair number of tickets. Ive seen 50 tickets for a 1-off and 25 tickets for between 2 to 5 away, and Ive also seen a setup with 40 tickets for a one-away and 30 tickets for between 2 and 5. They can change the setting for the number of milliseconds you have to hit 1,000 while this should ALWAYS be 10, as 10 milliseconds is 1/100th of a second, how long a real stopwatch stays on 10.00, the default is 8 milliseconds, and this can be set as low as 4. However, if you find a Stop the Clock where they either raised the amount of time or left it at 8 milliseconds, you could be sitting on a gold mine. You only have 5 milliseconds to stop it on the green dot on Spin-N-Win, and this game has almost double that.

The Break-Even: I need more info, given this game has been gone from my location for a long time. However, I suspect it is still a gold mine for locations that still carry it. My verdict: If you are fortunate enough to find this machine with a high jackpot at your local Dave and Busters, they should literally have to pry you off the machine to get you to leave well, at least stay at the machine until closing time if youve got the time and money. This game can even beat out Spin-N-Win and Speed Demon for profitability if you master it...and possibly even come close to comparing to Tippin' Bloks - the highest praise I can give a game at this time!

*Super Monkey Ball - Ticket Blitz 6.8 chips regular, 3.4 chips 1/2 price 500 minimum, 1,000 maximum JP, goes up by 1 per losing play This game's a two-parter. For those of you who don't know what Super Monkey Ball is, you have a monkey in a ball that you roll towards a set goal in a set amount of time - think Marble Madness for the NES. There are bananas on the course that you can collect for tickets, and you're also awarded tickets for completing the main course/any time you had left on the clock. Assuming you complete the main course, you are given a bonus stage, where you roll down a hill very quickly, shooting off a ramp at the end in an attempt to go through a ring a fair distance away, which would award the jackpot. From my understanding, the bonus game is rigged against you unless it wants you to win. Assuming you're able to complete the main courses well, you generally get around 40-50 tickets for those, between course completion tickets, bananas collected, and time on the clock. However, someone able to hit the jackpot consistently (on a machine set not to be rigged agianst the player) might have big potential here. The breakeven - 6.8 chips = 90.66 cents = 181 tickets per play, minus the 40-50 expected, is 131-141 lost per non-JP play. On 1/2 price day, that's 91 tickets expected per game, so you're getting about half your money back each time you beat the main course but don't jackpot. You'll need the jackpot 1 out of every 4 games or so on normal days to break even, and one out of every 11-12 games or so on 1/2 price day. My verdict: If you find an unrigged machine, it's worth playing. Otherwise, steer clear.

*Super Shot (Basketball) 3.3 chips regular, 1.6 chips 1/2 price 100 ticket minimum jackpot, raises 2 per play on ANY connected Super Shot machine, maximum 1,000. The standard basketball game for D&B, Super Shot gives you 40 seconds (used to be 50, but changed last year) (+ 5 bonus seconds for passing 30 points) to shoot for as high a score as you can. Im going to assume you know how basketball works and focus on the Dave and Busters specifics 91 points is the minimum high score to win the jackpot (used to be 81), and the new high score to win is 1 point higher than whatever the last jackpot-winning high score was. (The single most important thing, if playing for a long period of time, is to beat your high score by as little as possible.) The Break-even: 44 cents per game = 88 expected tickets per play. The verdict: If youre good at basketball, and you know you can beat the high score set on the machine, play it for the single high jackpot and leave.

*The Price is Right - Shell Game 5.5 chips regular, 2.8 chips 1/2 price Bonus is 1,000 tickets This is another two-part game. The main game is an easy version of a regular shell game, where you see an object, it's concealed under a cup, they're swapped around a bit, and you have to tell which cup the object is under. If you fail, you get 12 tickets and the game ends. If you succeed, you get to spin the Showcase Showdown wheel, with values ranging from 20-150 tickets with a 1,000 ticket bonus where the dollar would be on a normal wheel. NOTE: The 1,000 ticket space is slightly smaller than the other spaces, and the amount of time it takes the wheel to stop spinning after you've hit the stop button IS NOT consistent. I am extremely convinced that the game is RIGGED and only pays out the 1,000 when it wants to. The breakeven - 5.5 chips = 73.33 cents = 147 tickets per play to break even. My verdict: AVOID AT ALL COSTS.

*Tippin' Bloks THIS GAME HAS ITS OWN SEPARATE SUB-FAQ. PLEASE CHECK THE INCLUDED FILE IN THE ZIP FOR INFORMATION ON THIS GAME.

*Titanic 2.3 chips regular / 1.2 chips 1/2 price 1/2/3 swipes per play, with 100/250/500 ticket jackpots This game is basically the exact same thing as Cyclone, just with varying jackpots based on how much youre willing to spend. Odds are, youre getting 8 tickets if you miss on the 1-credit jackpot, 18 if youre missing on the 2-coin jackpot, and 30 if youre missing on the 3-coin. This game costs a good bit more than Cyclone, but thankfully its much easier to win the jackpot on your timing can be just a little more off than it can be on Cyclone. Also of note is that each jackpot goes up by 1 per miss, not by 4. The jackpots CAN be hit consecutively, though you usually only get an easy jackpot once 20 coins have been played and lost on a certain jackpot level. (So this means itll probably be easier, up until the next hit anyway, if the 1st coin jackpot is 120 or more, or the 2nd coin jackpot is 270 or more, or the 3rd coin jackpot is 520 or more.) The Break-even 1 credit: 2.3 chips = 30.66 cents = 61 tickets per play. With 8 tickets coming back per play, thats 53 tickets per play. Basically, if you hit it in 1 try youve made money, 2 hits is a breakeven, and anything more than that is costing you money. The Break-even 2 credits: 4.6 chips = 122 tickets per play, 18 coming back on a loss. Thats 104 tickets per playso you have just about 2 chances to profit. The Break-even 3 credits: 6.9 chips = 183 tickets per play, 30 coming back on a loss. So youre losing 153 tickets every time you lose. Assuming you only play when the jackpot is 520 or more, like noted above, you have three chances to come out ahead. Hitting on the 4th attempt or later is a loss. My verdict: If you see an extremely high two-coin jackpot (over 290) or a fairly high three-coin jackpot (over 520), Vulture it.

*Treasure Quest

9.9 chips regular, 5.0 chips 1/2 price This game is much like Wheel of Fortune, but slightly more skill-based. Ever so slightly. You spin a large wheel, and get whatever you land on. Obviously, the higher ticket value spaces are smaller - the 200, 500, and 1,000 ticket spaces each consist of only one spot, sandwiched between two "10" value spaces on each side. So attempting to skill spin to land on one single spoke of the wheel is extremely difficult if not impossible, considering you have to have the wheel go around a certain number of rotations for it to count as a valid spin. There are 50 spaces on the Treasure Quest wheel, and they go as follows: 10 (x2), 1,000, 10 (x2), 60 (x3), 100 (x4), 10 (x2), 200, 10 (x2), 90 (x3), 50 (x4), 10 (x2), 500, 10 (x2), 60 (x3), 100 (x4), 10 (x2), 200, 10 (x2), 90 (x4), 50 (x4). Breaking it down a bit easier to see: 1,000 - 1 500 - 1 200 - 2 100 - 8 90 - 7 60 - 7 50 - 8 10 - 16 (ouch!) 4,310 (total value of all spaces) / 50 (total number of spaces) = 86.2 tickets per play, on average. The breakeven is 9.9 chips = $1.32 = 264 tickets per game. Even on 1/2 price day you won't make that on average, but at least then you're getting an 86.2 average on a 132 ticket game, a 65% rate of return and a 35% house edge, which is better than playing the daily number and comparable to most $1 and $2 scratch-off lottery tickets. My verdict: As much as this game is still better than most other non-skill redemption machines, AVOID.

*Tower of Power 2.7 chips regular / 1.4 chips 1/2 price 100 ticket minimum jackpot, usually goes up by 2 per miss (this is different in some locations), maximum of 500 This games similar to Cyclone, except instead of the light going in a circle, it goes from the bottom to the top of a tower, and you have to hit a button to stop it when

the light is on the Bonus Tickets line. Most versions of this game put 10 tickets next to the jackpot, so if you miss one way or the other, youre getting 10. The Break-even: 2.7 chips = about 36 cents = about 72 tickets, with 10 coming back on a loss, so youre losing 64 tickets every time you play and miss. Based on that, you only have one or two tries, depending upon the jackpot, to turn a profit or break even. My verdict: Avoid at all costs.

*Wheel Deal 7.8 chips regular / 3.9 chips 1/2 price (7 plays per game) 50 ticket minimum jackpot, up by 2 per each play (14 for each swipe), 250 ticket maximum http://www.moneymachines.com/redemption.html This game has been a mainstay in most arcades that have any prizes for tickets. Normally, you put in a quarter and whatever the quarter lands on is what you win. In this version, you swipe you card and hit a button, which releases a small disc inside the game (which replaces the need for quarters.) Whatever the disc stops on is what you win. However, in order to win the jackpot (or 50 tickets on the variant that only has red and black spaces), you must get the disc to stop EXACTLY on the jackpot space it cannot be touching an edge. On either version, a loss gives 2 tickets, so 7 losses will still come out to 14 tickets regardless of the other plays. The red or black version is almost blind luck, as the discs tend to spin differently, meaning its difficult to time your hitting of the button so that a disc scores a jackpot. The other version, where youre shooting at one central target, can involve skill. However, the variance between the different discs in the game makes any consistent winning unfeasible. On a lighter note, this game is the game that free credits are left on by inexperienced guests most often. A good number of people think you only get 1 push of the button per swipe of the card (as most other games work), leaving 6 chips for the next person that walks up. Free plays are always a good thing, no matter how bad the payouts are. The Break-even: 7.8 chips = $1.04 = 208 expected tickets per game. My verdict: Only play if youre not paying for the games (where other people leave them unknowingly.)

*Wheel Deal Extreme 7.8 chips regular, 3.9 chips 1/2 price *EACH PLAY GETS 5 PUCKS* 250 minimum JP, 500 maximum JP, goes up by 2 per swipe (Other possible settings include a 1,000 maximum JP or no maximum JP, and the JP going up by 2 per puck, not 2 per swipe) Wheel Deal Extreme is similar to its smaller predecessor, skill-based in the same way, but most likely harder to hit as far as the jackpot. There are circles of different colors ever so slightly smaller than the puck, with various values - 2, 2, 4, 4, 6, 8, 10, 16 (Jackpot), the Mystery Bonus, and then going back down towards 2. If you get a puck touching, but not exactly on top of a value, you get that value. If you get a puck exactly over and completely covering a circle, you get 5x the value of the circle. In order to get the jackpot, you need to have the puck completely covering the red circle with the arrow pointing to it (if you're off-center, you'll just get 16.) The problem with this game is namely the variance as to how long it takes a puck to come out from its stationary position to get to the end where it is scored, from when you hit the button. The pucks spin differently, it would seem, which makes the game nearly impossible time correctly/perfectly. I've hit the jackpot on this before, but at the same time there have been times it's taken people over $100 in play for the machine to jackpot. (A machine at another arcade I know, going up one per play, got from its minimum of 300 to well over *5,000*. At 5,000 losing quarters, that's $1,250 it took in before dispensing a $25 jackpot.) The breakeven: 1.56 chips per puck = 20.8 cents = 41.6 tickets per puck to break even on normal days. Even getting right by the jackpot with every play on 1/2 price day wouldn't be enough to break even. My veridct: Avoid, but keep in mind that given this is a "multiple plays per 1 swipe" game, other patrons often leave credits on the machine unknowingly, and free play is still a good thing regardless of how high the house edge is.

*Wheel of Fortune (Cyclone variant) 2.6 chips regular, 1.3 chips 1/2 price Jackpot of 500 or 1,000 tickets (depending on location) Basically, this is Cyclone, but easier to win and with lower payouts. Instead of the bonus spot awarding a jackpot, it spins the Wheel of Fortune, which eventually stops on your bonus. Each spot has an equal chance of winning. At our local D&B, the two jackpot spots are 300 and 500 tickets. The other 18 spots are ALWAYS, regardless of location:

50, 40, 30, 80, 40, 50, 70, 30, 60, 30, 50, 60, 30, 40, 90, 60, 30, and 90 tickets. If you miss, youre basically getting 8 tickets. A good player will win at least 50% of their games, and thats what Im using to make my decision on this game being worth playing or not. If you win more than 50% of the time, redo the math based on that. Based on the above ticket values, if the two jackpots are 300 and 500, the average bonus will be worth 82 tickets (assuming that for 20 plays, you hit every possible space once.) If those values are 500 and 1,000, this changes the average bonus to be 117 tickets. The Break-even: 2.6 chips per play = 69 tickets expected per game. If youre playing with 300 and 500 ticket jackpots, you need to hit the spin zone 4 out of every 5 times to break even. If youre playing with 500 and 1,000, you need a bit better than 1 out of every 2 times to break even. My verdict: You only come out ahead on this game if you get lucky; dont bother.

*Wheel of Fortune (Raw Thrills/PlayMechanix) 9.9 chips regular, 5.0 chips 1/2 price This game is hard to quantify the payout on in some ways, but easier in others. So I'll give it my best shot. The gameplay is simple; you're presented with a puzzle, and the option of picking letters - though the game will only allow you to pick letters that are actually in the puzzle. You get 3 spins of the giant wheel by spinning a large dial, and for each spin it'll stop on a ticket value and you'll call a letter, and the game works just like the show for that - stop on, say, 10 tickets, call a letter that there are 4 of, you get 40 tickets. After your 3 spins, you'll get a chance to solve the puzzle for a 10 ticket bonus (20 tickets if you did the double play option, which costs two swipes and doubles the value of the spins.) The game's massive house edge comes from the fact that the "bonus" wedges of 50, 200, and 300 tickets per letter are only one third the size of a normal wedge, much as you only have one space to land on the "Million Dollar" wedge in the real Wheel of Fortune game show. The bonus wedges have similarly small wedges only awarding 2 tickets on each side, so when I refer to "2-300-2" down below, that means a bonus wedge of 300 with a 2 on each side of it. I've charted out the wedges for you - starting from the highest paying out bonus space:

(2-300-2), 4, 10, 4, 6, 4, (2-50-2), 4, 2, 6, 8, 4, (2-200-2), 4, 10, 4, 6, 4, (2-50-2), 4, 2, 6, 8, 2. If you take the 2-300-2 wedge and divide it by 3, the net value of that space on the wheel is 101.33 tickets. the 2-200-2 wedge's value to the wheel is 68 tickets, and the 250-2 wedges are valued at 18 tickets when you factor in the bonus wedge's small size. So by adding 101.33, 18, 68, 18, and all the small wedges above, you get (307.33 tickets in total value / 24 total full spaces on the wheel) = 12.8 tickets average per letter called. Now you get 3 spins, and sometimes you'll get larger puzzles and sometimes smaller ones. From my experience watching people play, you generally get 5 or 6 letters total per game, so you're going to get somewhere in the neighborhood of 70 tickets per game on average, and that's WITH you hitting bonus spaces every once in a while. The breakeven: 9.9 chips = $1.32 = 264 tickets per game to break even. Even on 1/2 price day, you usually won't approach the 132 ticket per game average to stay afloat. My verdict: AVOID AT ALL COSTS.

D. Chip Games Unlike most games, where you swipe your card to put a credit on a machine and play, these games are ones where you actually put physical chips into a game meaning you find a chip dispenser, swipe your card (where it takes off 15.8 chips from your card balance and gives you 15 physical chips), and put the chips in the games. These are mostly like those pusher games there are a bunch of chips on platforms, you put your chip in and hope it knocks other chips off of the edge, and you get tickets for every coin pushed over the edge. In case you dont know what Im talking about, or havent seen these before, heres a link to a few coin pushers, including the Monopoly pusher game Ill be discussing below: http://www.bmigaming.com/games-arcade-coinpushers-gp.htm The trouble with MOST of these chip games is that you only get 8 tickets per coin that goes over the ledge (in addition to the 2 tickets you get every time you insert a chip), and each chip you spend on a game, in order to break even, requires you get more than 26 tickets. There are exceptions to this rule, and some of these games dont play like standard pusher games, but for the ones without any bonus features or extra ways to earn more tickets, theyre usually a waste. NOTE: 1/2 price day works on these, but the value of a physical chip is now more than 1 chip from your card. A 15-chip swipe now costs 15.8, and a 10 chip swipe

now costs 10.5. This makes the 10-chip swiper an ever so slightly better deal, as 30 physical chips would cost 31.5, but cost 31.6 through the 15-chip swiper. 1/2 price day I BELIEVE is 5.2 and 7.9 respectively. If it's 5.3, then the 15-chip swiper is a better deal by a tenth of a chip; if it's 5.2 then the 10-chip swiper is the better deal. Having said that, all math for regular priced chips will be done with each physical chip now costing 1.05 game card chips, which is 14 cents, which equals 28 tickets. HOWEVER, there is nothing stopping you from buying hundreds, if not thousands of physical chips on 1/2 price day and bringing them back to play with another day; assuming you do this, your effective rate of breakeven SHOULD be 1 physical chip = 14 tickets. On to the games:

*Big Wheel Standard game (no bonuses, 8 tickets per coin over the edge) http://www.electrumhuashin.com/index.php? main_page=product_info&cPath=380_383&products_id=560&zenid=fb560554c332c0cc 8b25176d828e7c54 Big Wheel only has one real way to get extra tickets, and thats dumping one of the carts on its big wheel. It goes around like a ferris wheel, and a fair number of a players chips will end up sticking in one of the carts instead of dropping down to the playfield below. However, these carts can get overloaded, and once a cart gets too many chips in it, the entire cart will dump, sending many coins over the edge and winning a lot of tickets. But with how many chips it takes to do that, your only real hope of coming out ahead is finding someone else who loaded up one of the carts heavily (thats almost ready to dump), and getting it to dump yourself. Only play this if you come into a situation like that. Otherwise, steer clear.

*Claim Jumper http://www.highwaygames.com/print.php3?machine_id=688&view=&review=&print=no This games a bit odd. Youre playing on one of four sides where a train with multiple carts is going in a circle. The object is to get a car to dump to do that, theres a very thin slot above each cart that will trigger a dump if you get a coin to stick in it exactly. There are four ways to get tickets in this game: *Missing a cart entirely 2 tickets *Getting a coin in a cart, but not dumping the cart 8, 10, or 12 tickets (random)

*Getting a coin in the dump slot, which causes that cart to dump all of its coins 3 tickets per coin in the car *Random bonus 70 tickets if this icon is lit at the moment you activate a car dump Luckily, Ive seen a player good enough to hit the dump slots repeatedly to make a fair assessment of this game onand even with that, Id say stay away from this game. As said above, each chip is worth 28 tickets. The only way to come out of this game ahead is to either make sure youre dumping a cart on every 3rd play (or better) WITH the 70 ticket bonus lit every single time, or to dump a cart every 3rd play (or better) that has over 23 coins in it. I typically dont see many carts get loaded up to 23 coins, or anywhere near itand in order for the carts to get loaded back up after you dump them, that also requires you wait for other players to play craploads of coins into the game without being able to win. That relegates this game to vulture tactics look by every so often to see if someones loaded up a few of the carts with lots of chips, and then swoop in, score your dumps, and leave. For 99.9% of all players, this game wont be worth playing. NOTE: This game was removed from my local D&B but this information might still be useful to those in other areas.

*Goin Rollin http://www.primetimeamusements.com/arcadegame.php?id=94 This is the ONE chip game that can be worth playing, depending on how your Dave and Busters has the jackpots set. As you can see from the picture, the object is to get chips through holes in a rotating wheel specifically, the bonus hole. There are four possible bonus holes 2 that are 20 tickets, and 2 that are 30 tickets the 30 ticket holes are skinnier than the 20 ticket holes, and much harder to hit. In order for this game to be worth it, you need to win the jackpot, which is done by getting 5 consecutive coins in bonus holes without missing one. Assuming you can time the coins correctly, this is very easy just play the game the exact same way every time once youve found a way that works. (You should go after the 20-ticket holes instead of the 30-ticket ones, because youll be able to hit them more consistently, and you wont hit the jackpot unless youre consistent.) Originally, when this game debuted at D&B, the payout scheme was as follows: First coin = ticket value of slot (20), 2nd coin = 50, 3rd coin = 100, 4th coin = 150, 5th coin = 200, for a total payout of 520 tickets if you got 5 in a row. Under that scheme, the break-even was getting one 5-in-a-row out of every 20 chips played. However, they ended up lowering it by HALF because I was killing it so badly. Which made it first coin

= 20, 2nd coin = 25, 3rd = 50, 4th = 75, 5th = 100. This might still be profitable if the chips are all bought on 1/2 price and one is consistent enough. Ive seen other payout schemes elsewhere like 20-25-50-100-150, or something similar. Basically, buy your chips on 1/2 price day and compare against a 14 ticket per chip earn rate to see if you can profit. *High Casino Standard game, no bonuses This is just your regular run-of-the-mill pusher. 2 tickets per coin played, 8 for every one over the edge, and no possible way to get extra tickets. AVOID AT ALL COSTS.

*Hi-Roller Standard game, no bonuses Same as High Casino. No reason to ever play this, period.

*Jackpot Standard game, no bonuses Noticing a trend here? Every chip/pusher game without a bonus is worthless by default. Avoid this one too.

*Monopoly http://www.bmigaming.com/games-arcade-coinpushers-gp.htm Standard game, but with bonuses Ahh, something to break the monotony of the worthless chip pushers! This works the same way as far as chip payouts go 2 per coin in, and 8 per coin over the edgebut this one has a bonus attached. As the coin travels down to the playfield, it has the chance of lighting up one of 8 lights on the board (if your coin moves over a trigger when the light above that trigger is flashing, then that light stays lit.) If all 8 lights are lit, you move into the Monopoly bonus game which is basically your token moving around the regular Monopoly board until you land in jail, or hit the Income Tax or Luxury Tax spaces, which end your game. Chance and Community Chest tend to put you in Jail VERY often, so every roll has a chance of screwing you over.

UPDATE: The payouts seem to have been lowered to an average of 10-20 tickets on hitting a bonus. Since the chip portion of the game will never make your money back, you have to focus on the bonus game. The only time this game is worth playing is if there are 6 or 7 out of the 8 lights lit, and you come up and immediately hit the remaining lights. This is an EXTREME example of vulture tactics swoop in, hit the bonus the other players built up for you, and leave the machine right after.

*Pharaohs http://www.dvs-systems.com/product.asp?pf_id=PHARAOHS This is another one of those odd games you launch your coin onto a rotating playfield, hoping to get the coin to fall into one of several holes on the field. If you dont get the coin into a hole, if it stops on a win spot, you can win either 10, 16, 26, or 50 tickets. If it goes into a hole, you get to play the bonus game. In the bonus game, a light flashes around a pyramid of ticket values 20, 30, 40, 50, 70, 100, 200, 250, 350, and 500 tickets respectively. You hit the bonus win button to stop the light and get the ticket value the light is onbut almost every time Ive seen this game played, the light immediately jumps to 20 or 30 tickets after the button is hit. Im fairly sure the machine is set to only give higher amounts once every so oftenand based on that, even a player that gets a coin in the bonus hole every time wont come out ahead by very far, with all the 20s theyll be getting. You may walk into an arcade and see players huddled around on all sides of this game, and one or two with huge stacks of tickets around them. DONT BE FOOLED they spent way more money than those tickets are worth to get them. Unless you know how to hit the 500 ticket jackpot every time, if thats even possible, dont bother with this game.

*Reactor Standard coin game, but with a small bonus This is pretty much like every single other pusher game out there, but once a large number of coins have been played into one side, a small claw will come down from the top of the machine, pick up a few coins out of a bowl of coins at the top of the game (separate from the playfield), and then dump them to a chute, which puts them in your win zone. These bonus wins are still only 8 tickets per chip, and Ive never seen the claw pick up more than 5 chips or so. Even WITH the bonus, this game isnt worth playing.

*The Simpsons Kooky Karnival http://tacamusement.com/residential.php Rolldown chip game, jackpot varies between 50 and 250 tickets This game can be beaten, but only if the payouts are generous and youre VERY good. This is a rolldown game, where you put your chip in and it rolls into one of various targets on the board. The only thing were concerned with is the jackpot, which works somewhat like the Goin Rollin jackpot you need 3 consecutive coins in the W, I, and N targets without missing one in between (although you can get 3 coins into these targets in any order.) The W target is trying to get a coin inside a donut by Homers mouth by getting it up a ramp, which goes up and down. (You have to time your coin so that it hits the ramp when its the most level, so that it will make it all the way up towards the donut without falling backwards.) The I target is simple Bart is riding back and forth on a skateboard, and you throw the coin down the center of the field. If Bart doesnt deflect it away (time the coin so that hes off to one side or the other when it gets down there), it will go straight through into the I target. The N is similar to the W; you get a coin to go up a ramp and into a dunk tank, which dunks the Comic Book Guy. Ive seen this machine with a 250 ticket constant jackpot and 30-ticket constant per-letter win in the past. In that situation, as long as you're remotely decent, you can turn a profit. However, most places operate on a progressive jackpot that goes up per coin played, and goes back down to some really low level (like 50 or 100 - ours is currently 72 for some dod reason) after its won. Its still possible to make out over the short run on these types of games, so long as you remember that each chip is supposed to be making at least 14 tickets for you, so its not worth playing this unless you're really good or you have a high initial jackpot at your location.

*Wheel of Fortune Pushers http://www.bmigaming.com/games-arcade-coinpushers-qz.htm Standard pusher game, with a bonus

This is just like Monopoly in that there are triggers a coin can pass over on its way to the playfield that can win a bonus game. In the back of the machine, youll see the words WHEEL OF FORTUNE, lit up to a certain letter thats flashing. Youll also see a red light that moves back and forth above each coin slot. If your coin passes through a slot that has the red light lit above it at that point, the next letter in Wheel of Fortune will light up. If you get the last E to complete the phrase, the big wheel above the machine spins, and stops on a ticket value, which you win. Getting individual letters isnt hard if you go for the slot on the extreme left or right, youll notice that the red light pauses above those slots for a slightly longer period of time and is easier to time for a win. Regardless of that, the only time this games worth paying is if someones left it 1 letter away from a bonus win. There are a fair number of 10s and 20s on the bonus wheel (at least in D&B there were, Ive seen these with higher payouts elsewhere), so even a perfect play where you only had 1 letter left to go, and you hit it, can end up with a losing ticket total. If you feel lucky, and theres only 1 letter left to go, play this, get the bonus, and leave. Otherwise, dont bother.

*Winners Wheel http://www.coinoptoday.com/newsflash/news/andamiro_2006-09-05_winner-wheel.html Jackpot ranges between 20 and 250 tickets, based on location (My local maxes out at 100) Basically, this game is a roll-down game where you throw a coin into the slot, and hope it rolls over an arrow. If it does, it will launch a ball onto the playfield that will bounce around and eventually roll into one of several holes with varying ticket values. One hole (that has a small protective ring around it) is the bonus hole, which awards the jackpot. The skinnier the arrow the coin rolls over, the better the chances of the ball immediately stopping in a higher ticket value hole. The skinniest arrow will put the ball on the playfield, HOPEFULLY, where it falls right into the bonus hole. If you can find a location that offers this game with a 250 ticket maximum jackpot, and you see it at 250 and know you can time the coin over the small arrow correctly, go ahead and throw a few coins in it to see if you can force a win. Just remember that anything over 9 plays and youre losing money.

*Wonder Wheel

http://www.bmigaming.com/games-arcade-coinpushers-qz.htm 1,000 ticket jackpot This game works on the same premise as Goin Rollin. If you get a coin in the bonus slot, you win tickets. If you get several coins in the bonus slot one right after another, you win more tickets. The payout scheme I saw was 30 tickets for the first bonus, 50 for the second, 150 for the 3rd, 300 for the 4th, and 500 for the 5th. At first glance, this game makes more sense to play than Goin Rollinuntil you sit down and play it and see how painstakingly hard it is to time it so you get even ONE coin in the bonus slot, let alone five. Obviously, if you can time the coins so that youre getting constant bonuses the break-even for this game being one 1,000-ticket jackpot for every 36 coins played then go for it. But even with all the other experts at coin-pusher and coin-jumper games Ive seen at my location, I havent seen a single person come away from this game ahead. Save your chips for something else.

F. Advantage Playing - not just for the games! As I mentioned near the beginning of the guide, there's much more to doing this on a consistent basis than just being able to beat a game to a bloody pulp. Being able to consistently beat a game means nothing if the employees of your location are apt to change the payouts to stymie your profits. Sometimes, this is inevitable; a corporate mandate might require a game to be changed nationwide, and no amount of effort on your part is going to overturn that. (This happened with Speed Demon, one of my prior profitable games.) But other times, they DO have some leeway; even though my D&B has specifically quoted me policy saying that managers aren't to change a game's settings barring corporate instruction, games can and do have their payouts altered or game settings changed at some locations. Basically, this little blurb is going to be about making your presence in your local Dave & Buster's location a net positive, even if financially, you're a net negative to them. First...common sense. The technicians can be your allies, or not - this doesn't mean kiss ass or anything, just be a generally friendly person. Realize that they've got other things to do in there than BS with you, and many other machines that need ticket refills or maintenance. Don't throw a hissy fit if your machine isn't refilled right away, especially if, for some reason, you have to be down there on a busier evening. Techs that you're on good terms with are going to be much more likely to make time to help you out when you need it, and, hey...they might throw you a comp game or two every once in a while. Don't expect it, but it's nice when it happens.

Speaking of busy days...if at all possible, be there at the least busy times for your individual location. The earlier in the day, the better - and avoid Friday and Saturday nights like the plague. The purpose here is two-fold; you want to make it so them refilling the tickets on your game of choice doesn't keep them from other things that desperately need done, and you WANT people that are just there to have a good time to be playing the games you normally profit from, so that they'll most likely lose, and offset your wins to an extent. The Winner's Circle needs a nod here too. Don't take up 40,000-50,000 tickets at one time. This usually requires a manager approval, slows you down, slows them down, and generally is just bad form. If you can take up less than 10,000 tickets at a time, this is optimal - this way no manager has to come over to approve the tickets being posted to your card. If you're in a situation where you normally earn more than 10k at a time, consider splitting them into halves of under 10k each. Be considerate of other guests; there are a few notes here. First, while new prizes might be extremely profitable, it's bad form to take every single copy of a new game, or every single one of a new video game console or other product that D&B regularly stocks. Unless no one else is buying an item at all, you generally want to leave about half of them for others. (Use your best judgment; if they get 5 iPod Touches, if they're a newer version of them, take 2 at a time at first if you have the tickets; if they have had them for a while, you can safely bump to 3. Just make sure that the guests that AREN'T advantage playing are able to get the high-end stuff if they save up for it, so they leave happy, continue to come back - this provides another 'ploppy' whose play will work towards offsetting your own wins as far as the books are concerned! NOTE: This "hard limit" DOES NOT APPLY to Special Order items, as any guest can put in for one of those at any time. However, it is still a good idea not to order something like 10 of a major prize at one time, as it may raise questions up the chain of command as to just how you earned that number of tickets! Most importantly, be sure to let other guests "play through" if they are looking to play a game you're currently advantage playing on. This will do so many important things; it'll endear you to the managers and technicians for being a good guy overall, it'll get (most likely) some additional losing play on the machine, which looks good in the books, and generally it's just the right thing to do especially in situations where you have more than 10,000 tickets owed to you from a game. Why make someone else wait 3 hours to play a game that will take them 45 seconds at most? Let them play through, tear off whatever tickets they win from your own stack, and then when they're done, continue on with your advantage play. Basically...make yourself as unobtrusive as possible. Think about it - a manager who has the ability to do so is quite likely to change a game's payout to make it unappealing to someone they have issue with or is generally unpleasant...but they'll be far more likely to leave a game be for someone who shows them some common courtesy. tl;dr; Don't be a dick. Your profitable ventures will most likely last longer!

Hopefully my FAQ has helped you see that going to D&B can be a profitable experience, instead of it being like most arcades where you dump in many, many dollars only to leave with a whistle or stuffed animal. Just take what Ive taught you, go in there, and wail on the machines with the best odds of winning until youve got the prizes youre after. If you're reading this FAQ and theres a redemption game NOT listed in here that you want me to do the statistics on, I will be more than happy to; just send me the name of the game, and as much information about the game as you can get; Ill run the numbers on it, assuming I can find enough about the game to give you a decent rundown. Ill also add the game to future versions of my FAQ.

All names of games and businesses contained herein are their respective owners.

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