5006 Coastboat Bent

Designed & Produced in Denmark

This modelkit is Copyright protected. All Copyrights to this model belongs to Billing Boats af 2003 Aps.
31.10.08

Billing Boats

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Fig. 1: Bedding planks, keel, frame and bilge parts. No bedding plank is included in this kit. It can be obtained from a carpenters or builders suppliers and should be about (1020 mm) thick. The keel, No. 1, should be fastened to the bedding plank with nail No. F 330. Make sure both are level. Then glue the two parts of the bilge, Nos. 1a and 1b, to the positions marked on pages 18-20. These should be chamfered off towards their fore edges to ensure the planking is as close and watertight as possible. Your experience or personal preference will tell you whether to use casein glue or instant glue for wood. Now you can begin to attach the ribs. Always use a little angle bar (set square) to help you, because the ribs have got to be at right angles. Fig. 1:Beddingsplanke, kl, spant og spunningsdele. Beddingsplanken er ikke indeholdt i byggesttet. Planken skal have en tykkelse p 10-20 mm og kan kbes hos en tmrer eller i det lokale byggemarked. P beddingsplanken fastgres kl nr. 1 med sm nr. F 330. Vr opmrksom p, at begge dele ligger plant. Derefter limes de to spunningsdele nr. 1a og 1b p de anviste positioner p siderne 18-20. Disse dele skal affases ned mod forkanten, s skibskldningen ligger s tt til som muligt. Alt efter erfaring/nske kan De enten benytte kasein-lim eller sekundlim beregnet til tr. Herefter kan De begynde at montere spanterne. Tag altid en lille vinkel til hjlp, da spanterne skal st i ret vinkel.

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Fig. 2. The ribs. Glue the ribs at right angles to the keel (see before mentioned Fig.). The hatched lines on bilge parts 1a & 1b show the chamfered edges mentioned under fig. 1. Auxiliary rib No. 1b should now be glued in between the keel and rib No. 10. The marks on the planks can clearly be seen in this illustration. Fig. 2: Spanter Lim (som allerede nvnt) spanterne p klen i rette vinkler. De skraverede felter p spunningsdele nr. 1a og 1b viser de affasede kanter, der er beskrevet under fig. 1. Hjlpespant nr. 1b limes nu ind mellem kl og spant nr. 10. P denne figur ses tydeligt mar-keringerne til skibskldningen.

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Fig. 3. The deck. Before you glue the deck on, it may be necessary to do a bit of work on the incisions in it which enclose the lower ends of the ribs. Never force a deck into place. If you do, you risk twisting the hull. Once the deck is glued on, the ribs can be bev-elled with sandpaper, one by one, in order to support the planking. This is clearly shown in the photograph; see the deck line. The rabbets No. 1d should now be glued on between the ribs, starting at rib No. 3 and ending at No. 8: see the markings on the keel on pages 18-20. As mentioned above, casein glue or instant glue can be used here. Fig. 3: Dk Inden De limer dkket p, kan det vre ndvendigt at efterbearbejde de indsnit i dkket, der skal omslutte det nederste af spanterne. Dkket m aldrig presses p plads med magt; man risikerer da, at hele skroget deformeres. Nr dkket er limet p, kan spanterne n for n slibes i smig for derved at give understtning for kldningslisterne. Dette ses tydeligt p fotoet, se dkslinien. Lim nu spunningsliste nr. 1d ind mellem spanterne, begynd ved spant nr. 3 og slut med spant nr. 8. Se markeringen p klen. Plimning kan som fr nvnt foretages med ka-seinlim eller sekundlim.

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Figs. 4 & 4a: The planking. This is the bit many modelmakers regard as a chore: cladding the hull. First take shaped plank No. 12 and glue it within the markings on the keel and ribs. It is best to use casein glue for this. Fix the shaped plank with pins in the keel and ribs until the glue is dry. The first plank will now extend to the broken line on the keel and ribs. Reduce the upper edge by about 1/12 (2 mm) at the ends, i.e. the bow and stern; see fig. 4 and the plans. The next plank, No. 13, is then applied, starting at the unbroken line at the bow and stern, followed by the ribs. The next job is cladding the entire hull. This must be done with the greatest care. Dont try and economise on glue! Any excess glue on the outside of the hull can be rubbed off with a damp cloth. Each row of planks should be fastened to the next with clothes pegs. Fig. 4 &4a: Skibskldning S gr vi over til dt, mange modelbyggere be-tegner som et ndvendigt onde, nemlig bekld-ning af skroget. Frst tager De faconkldnings-liste nr. 12 og limer den inden for markeringerne p kl og spanter. Til plimningen er det bedst at anvende kaseinlim. Fasthold faconkldningen med knappenle p kl og spanter, indtil limen er tr. Den frste liste dkker nu hen til den stiplede linie p kl og spanter. Reducer overkanten ca. 2 mm ved enderne, dvs. ved bov og hk, se fig. 4 og tegningerne. Derefter anbringes den nste liste, alts nr. 13, idet man begynder ved den gennemgende linie ved bov og hk, og dernst spanterne. Det nste punkt er bekldning af hele skroget. Det er naturligvis en forudstning, at dette arbejde udfres med en vis omhu. Derudover er det vigtigt, at man ikke sparer p limen. Overskydende lim p ydersiden af skroget fjernes med en fugtig klud. De enkelte plankegange klemmes fast under hinanden med tjklemmer.

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Fig. 5. The hull. This figure shows you how to glue the two halves of the hull together when they are finished. Sandpaper the hull to a smooth finish, as described before. Fig. 5: Skrog Her har vi vist Dem, hvordan De skal lime de to halvdele af skroget sammen, nr de er frdige. Derefter slibes skroget rent, som beskrevet i foregende kapitel.

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Fig. 6. The transom stern. When the hull has been glued together, it is time to drill the various holes for the stern tube and the rudder case. Fix the stern tube first - use a two-component glue for this. Note that the stern tube needs to stick up just far enough for bush No. F875/b to be mounted correctly. Remember to grease the stern tube well afterwards if the model is to go into the water. The rudder system can now be mounted, as shown in the crosssection. If you want a remote control system on your model, the rudder ought to be steered with the aid of a Bowden brake. Bend an eye out of MS wire. Glue or solder it fast to the stock of the rudder. The two rudder blades No. F875/a should be stuck together with plastic glue. Make a depression corresponding to the stock of the rudder in the forward end of the blade and attach it firmly to the stock with a twocomponent glue. The rudder is drawn in its working position, and it can now be pulled up, just like in real life when the boats are beached. The remote control system can be constructed in any way you wish. To drive it, we recommend our 6V Mabuchi 380 or similar electric motor. Fig. 6: Agterskib Nr skroget er limet sammen, skal der bores hul forskellige steder til stvnrr og rorbrnd. Frst monteres stvnrret. Det limes fast med en to-komponentlim. Vr opmrksom p, at stvnrret skal rage s langt ud af ddtret, at bsning nr. F875/b kan placeres korrekt. Husk at smre stvnrret med fedt, sfremt modellen skal kunne bruges i vand. Herefter kan De indbygge rorsystemet som vist p snittegningen. Hvis De nsker et RC-anlg p Deres model, anbefales det, at roret styres ved hjlp af en Bowdenbremse. Til dette forml skal De bje et je af MStrd. Dette je limes eller loddes fast p rorstammen. De to rorblade nr. F875/a limes sammen ved hjlp af en plasticlim. P rorbladets forside slibes en hulning svarende til rorstammen, hvorefter rorbladet limes fast p stammen med en tokom-ponentlim. Roret er tegnet i arbejdsstilling og kan nu trkkes op, ligesom det er tilfldet i virkeligheden. Dette sker, nr bdene trkkes p land. RC-anlgget kan De indbygge efter eget nske og formen. Som drivkraft kan vi anbefale vor 6 V elektromotor Mabuchi 380 eller lignende.

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Fig. 7. Deck and railings. The illustration shows how we propose you should carve the keel and ribs to allow a remote control unit to be fitted. The decking planks No. 11b and the hatch coamings are stuck on with glue. You make these latter out of strip No. 11a. The rails, Nos. 27, 28 & 29, are fixed on in a regular fashion about 1/12 (2 mm) above the ships decking strip. Sandpaper the deadwood No. 30 to round it off a bit. Smooth off bracket No. 74 to the shape shown. Fig. 7: Dk og rling P denne figur har vi vist Dem vort forslag til, hvordan klen og spanterne skal udskres, s-fremt der skal indbygges et RC-anlg. Dkslister nr. 11b og lugekarmslister er limet p. Sidstnvnte fremstilles af liste nr. 11a. Rlingslisterne nr. 27, 28 og 29 er anbragt regelmssigt ca. 2 mm over den verste skibskldningsliste. Slib opklodsning nr. 30, s den bliver afrundet en smule. Slib kngt nr. 74 i facon, som vist.

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Fig. 8. The wheelhouse. It is best to build the framework for the wheelhouse, capstan housing etc. first. We have drawn in where the various sections should go on the etched plates as far as possible. If you follow the instructions, you cannot go wrong. Quite a lot of the parts for the wheelhouse will need bevelling. As soon as the framework is finished, you can start cladding the sides, roof, etc. Only then can you put the capstan house with accessories in place; the handrails No. F875/j; the funnel with housing No. F875/d, and the coat (of the mast) No. F876/d. Cf. main plan. A couple more things to note re cladding the sides. After you have clad the sides up to the roof, fix a rail under the roof above what has already been clad; cf. main plan. The same applies to the forward cabin. Portholes and windows to be glazed after painting with acetate No. 75. The windowframes in the wheelhouse to be made of strip No. 1d. A porthole must be used to finish the funnel off with. Fig. 8: Styrehus Det anbefales frst at opbygge skelettet til styrehus, spilhus osv. Vi har s vidt muligt indtegnet de enkelte deles placering p tspladerne. Hvis De flger disse anvisninger, burde alt g, som det skulle. Det er ndvendigt at skrslibe mange af delene til styrehuset. Nr skelettet er frdigt, kan De begynde at beklde sidedele, tag osv. Frst derefter anbringer De spilhuset med tilbehr, hndlister nr. F875/j, skorsten med fod nr. F875/d samt mastekrave nr. F876/d. Se ogs hovedtegning. Der er yderligere et par bemrkninger med hensyn til bekldning af sidedelene. Efter at De har bekldt sidedelene op til taget, monterer De en liste p langs under taget ovenp det allerede bekldte, se ogs hovedtegning. Det samme glder for den forreste kahyt. Kojer og vinduer monteres med glas, nr de er blevet malet med acetat nr. 75. Vinduesrammerne p styrehuset fremstilles af liste nr. 1d. Der skal yderligere anvendes et koje som afslutning p skorstenen.

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Fig. 9. Forward cabin. The cabin to be built up in the same way as the wheelhouse. Paint the insides of the frames of the skylight blue to give the impression of sky reflected in the glass. As under fig. 8, all parts to be clad first and then supplied with their various fittings. Fig. 9: Forreste kahyt Kahytten opbygges p samme mde som styrehuset. De indvendige skylightkarme kan De male bl, s man fr fornemmelsen af, at den bl himmel spejler sig i glasset. Som i fig. 8 skal alle dele frst bekldes og derefter forsynes med diverse beslag.

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Fig. 10. Deck fittings. The deck hatch to be made out of parts No. 5a, 6a & 6b as well as hatch No. 42. Fit the frame under the hatch No. 42 so that the overhang is the same on all four sides. When the upper side of No. 42 has been clad with deck planking No. 11b, glue strip No. 65 to the hatch (glue to the hatch only), so that it sticks out 1/16 (1.5 mm). This will give a laminated hatch opening so that the hatch can always be taken off again. The same applies to the cockpit aft. Note the broken lines on the etched plate. The buoy stays can be made any way you wish. Use a soldering iron to burn a ring in the round timber about 4/5 (20 mm) away. The round timber must be sanded first so that it is a bit conical on top. The flags, pennants etc. can be made out of the rest of the sailcloth; cf. main plan. The mast to stand on the keel and to be used in its full length, as delivered in the kit. The same applies to the gaff, No. 71. Fig. 10. Dksudstyr Dkslugen fremstilles af dele nr. 5a, 6a, 6b samt luge nr. 42. I den forbindelse skal man srge for at anbringe karmen under luge nr. 42 sledes, at der er lige meget udhng p alle fire sider. Nr De har bekldt oversiden af nr. 42 med dkslister nr. 11b, limer De liste nr. 65 p lugen (limes kun fast p lugen), sledes at den rager 1,5 mm frem. P denne mde har De lamineret lugeudskringen og kan altid fjerne lugen. Det samme glder for cockpittet i agterskibet. Vr opmrksom p de stiplede linier p tspla-den. Bjestagerne kan De fremstille efter eget nske. P rundtmmeret brnder man med en loddekolbe en ring ca. 20 mm fra enden. Rundtmmeret skal forinden vre slebet til, s det er en smule konisk opefter. Flagene kan De fremstille af resterne af sejldugen, se ogs hovedtegning. Masten skal st p klen og anvendes i fuld lngde, som den forefindes i byggesttet. Det samme glder gaffelbom nr. 71.

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Fig. 11. Fittings and sails. This figure shows various accessories such as the boathook, fish boxes, etc. The fish boxes are not shown on the main plan because they can be put wherever you want them. And the same applies, of course, to all the other accessories. The lifting hook No. F875/g (see main plan) to be glued on both sides of the bow. Then take a bit of MS wire No. F410 and make a shackle and glue it tight to the fittings. Stick the anchor together out of its various parts and glue it on somewhere up at the bow. Finally, the name boards No. F876/f should be glued to the stern and the adhesive strips TR133 fixed to them. See figure and main plan re sails, boom, stays, etc. The staysail to be attached to the forestay with MS rings, No. F601. If you want bolt ropes on the sail, please attach rigging line No. F73, as shown. The wooden stiffeners can, of course, be glued to the sail, but it looks better if they are sewn on. Fig. 11: Udstyrsdele og sejl Vi viser Dem her de forskellige tilbehrsdele s-som bdshage, fiskekasser osv. Fiskekasserne har vi ikke vist p hovedtegningen, idet de kan anbringes efter eget nske. Det samme glder i vrigt de vrige udstyrsdele. Ophalerkrogen nr. F875/g (se hovedtegning) limer De fast p hver side af boven. Derefter fremstiller De af MS-trd nr. F410 en bjle, der limes fast p beslagene. Lim ankeret sammen af de forskellige smdele og anbring det f.eks. p forskibet. Til sidst kan navneskiltene nr. F876/f monteres p hkken og de selvklbende mrkater TR133 anbringes p skiltene. Se ogs fig. og hovedtegning vedrrende sejl og anslag p bom eller stag. Stagsejlet fastgres p forstagen ved hjlp af MS-ringe nr. F601. nsker De lig p sejlet, skal De fastgre rigningstrd nr. F73 som vist. Forstrkningsstykkerne kan limes p sejlet, men det ser bedre ud, hvis de sys p.

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Table of cotents for Coastboat Bent No. 5006 Pcs. 1 1 2 2 1 1 5 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 8 20 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 1 1 1a 1b 1c 1c 1d 2 2 3 3 4 4 5 5 5a 6 6 6a 6b 6b 7 7 8 8 9 9 10 10 11 11 11a 11b 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 4mm x-vener 4mm x-vener 2mm x-vener 2mm x-vener 2mm x-vener 2mm x-vener 1,8x2x550mm 4mm x-vener 4mm x-vener 4mm x-vener 4mm x-vener 4mm x-vener 4mm x-vener 4mm x-vener 4mm x-vener 4mm x-vener 4mm x-vener 4mm x-vener 4mm x-vener 4mm x-vener 4mm x-vener 4mm x-vener 4mm x-vener 4mm x-vener 4mm x-vener 4mm x-vener 4mm x-vener 4mm x-vener 4mm x-vener 2mm x-vener 2mm x-vener 1,8x6x550mm 0,7x9x550mm 1mm x-vener 1mm x-vener 1mm x-vener 1mm x-vener 1mm x-vener 1mm x-vener 1mm x-vener 1mm x-vener 1mm x-vener 1mm x-vener 1mm x-vener 2132 L-R 2132 L-L 2133 L-L 2133 L-R 2133 L-R 2133 L-L Obechi 2132 L-R 2132 L-L 2132 L-R 2132 L-L 2132 L-R 2132 L-L 2132 L-R 2132 L-L 2132 L-R 2132 L-R 2132 L-L 2132 L-R 2132 L-R 2132 L-L 2132 L-R 2132 L-L 2132 L-R 2132 L-L 2132 L-R 2132 L-L 2132 L-R 2132 L-L 2133 L-R 2133 L-L Obechi Obechi 2134 L-B 2134 L-B 2134 L-B 2134 L-A 2134 L-A 2134 L-A 2134 L-A 2134 L-A 2134 L-A 2134 L-A 2134 L-B Kl Kl Spuning Spuning Hjlpespant Hjlpespant Spuning,vindue Spant Spant Spant Spant Spant Spant Spant Spant Dksluge Spant Spant Dksluge Dksluge Dksluge Spant Spant Spant Spant Spant Spant Spant Spant Dk Dk Lugekarm Dksliste Faconbekldn. Faconbekldn. Faconbekldn. Faconbekldn. Faconbekldn. Faconbekldn. Faconbekldn. Faconbekldn. Faconbekldn. Faconbekldn. Faconbekldn. Keel Keel Rabbet Rabbet Auxiliary frames Auxiliary frames Rabbet,Window Frame Frame Frame Frame Frame Frame Frame Frame Deck-hatch Frame Frame Deck-hatch Deck-hatch Deck-hatch Frame Frame Frame Frame Frame Frame Frame Frame Deck Deck Coaming Deckstrips Formed piece Formed piece Formed piece Formed piece Formed piece Formed piece Formed piece Formed piece Formed piece Formed piece Formed piece no. Dimision Material Betegnelse Description

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2 2 2 2 1 1 2 2 2 1 1 1 1 2 1 2 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 2 1 1 24 2 2 2 1 1 1 2 2 1 2 1 1 1 1 1 2 1 2 1 2 6 23 24 25 26 27 28 28 29 30 30 31 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 46a 47 48 49 50 51 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 1mm x-vener 1mm x-vener 1mm x-vener 1mm x-vener 2mm x-vener 2mm x-vener 2mm x-vener 2mm x-vener 4mm x-vener 4mm x-vener 4mm x-vener 4mm x-vener 4mm x-vener 4mm x-vener 8x210mm 2mm x-vener 2mm x-vener 2mm x-vener 2mm x-vener 2mm x-vener 14x27x8mm 2mm x-vener 2mm x-vener 2mm x-vener 2mm x-vener 2mm x-vener 2mm x-vener 0,7x5x550mm 2mm x-vener 2mm x-vener 2mm x-vener 2mm x-vener 4mm x-vener 4mm x-vener 2mm x-vener 2mm x-vener 2mm x-vener 2mm x-vener 2mm x-vener 2mm x-vener 2mm x-vener 2mm x-vener 2mm x-vener 4mm x-vener 2x5x500mm 0,7x3x550mm 3x3x550mm 1,8x3x550mm 2134 L-B 2134 L-B 2134 L-B 2134 L-B 2133 L-R 2133 L-R 2133 L-L 2133 L-R 2132 L-R 2132 L-R 2132 L-R 2132 L-L 2132 L-L 2132 L-R Dowel 2133 L-L 2133 L-R 2133 L-L 2133 L-L 2133 L-R Obechi 2133 L-L 2133 L-L 2133 L-R 2133 L-L 2133 L-L 2133 L-L Annegr 2133 L-R 2133 L-R 2133 L-R 2133 L-R 2132 L-R 2132 L-L 2132 L-L 2133 L-L 2133 L-L 2133 L-L 2133 L-R 2133 L-R 2133 L-R 2133 L-L 2133 L-L 2132 L-L Basswood Annegr Basswood Obechi Faconbekldn. Faconbekldn. Faconbekldn. Faconbekldn. Rling Rling Rling Rling Kantliste Kantliste Slingerkl Slingerkl Bedding Bedding Bedding Forkahyt Forkahyt Forkahyt Forkahyt Forkahyt Skylight Forkahyt Dksluge Styrhus Styrhus Styrhus Styrhus Bekldningsl. Spilkasse Spilkasse Spilkasse Akselbuk Akselbuk Akselbuk Styrhus Styrhus Styrhus Styrhus Cockpit Cockpit Cockpit Cockpit Cockpit-dk Rorbuk Strkl Lugedksel Lugekarm,agter Liste f. luge Formed piece Formed piece Formed piece Formed piece Rail Rail Rail Rail Edge strip Edge strip Ballastkeel Ballastkeel Slip Slip Slip Cabin, bow Cabin, bow Cabin, bow Cabin, bow Cabin, bow Skylight Cabin, bow Deck-hatch Wheel house Wheel house Wheel house Wheel house Plankingstrips Winch box Winch box Winch box Propellershaft Propellershaft Propellershaft Wheel house Wheel house Wheel house Wheel house Cockpit Cockpit Cockpit Cockpit Cockpit-deck Rudderbock False-keel Hatch/cover Coaming,aft Strip/hatch

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1 4 1 1 1 1 5 4 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 2 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 73a 74 75 M11 R3 3x200mm 8x20mm 8x8x30mm 40x110mm 9046 S TR 133 FL 113 Dowel Dowel Basswood 0,7x6x550mm 1,8x4x550mm 1,8x8x550mm 3x8x200mm Annegr Obechi Obechi Basswood Kasse Kasse Kasse Mastlaske Mast Gaffel Bdshage Bjestang Bje Pullert Acetat Sejl Transfer Flag Byggevejledn. Tegning Box Box Box Mastfishplate Mast Gaff Boathook Buoybar Buoy Bollard Acetate Sail Transfer Flag Building instruct. Drawing

2 1 1 1 4 4 6 4 3 26 1 1 5 1 10 7 2 1 3 1 1 71 1

F1 F19 F39 F72 F73 F135 F222 F223 F225 F276 F330 F393R F410 F487 F581 F601 F633 F675 F683 F743 F875 F876 F877 F878

8mm 34mm 1x250mm 6meter 3meter 6x7,5mm 7mm 7mm 11mm 1,5mm 1x10mm 40mm M4 2x250mm 12mm 6x135mm 4,7x0,8mm 10x2,6mm 15x12mm 18mm 9mm

Positionslant. Lanternekasse MS-Trd Rigningstrd Rigningstrd Pullert Blok, enkelt Blok, dopel Kofilenagle skner Sm Propel MS-Trd Klampe Skrueaksel Ring Koje Spilhoved Beslag jebolt Plaststb Plaststb Rorstamme

Side-light Board for sidel. Brasswire Rigging thread Rigging thread Bollard Block/single Block/double Belaying pins Lug Pin Propeller Brasswire Cleats Propeller shaft Ring Portlight Drumhead Fitting Eye-bolt Plastic steep Plastic steep Rudderstock Funnel

11x100mm

Skorsten

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