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A case study on the unconscious desires which motivate the consumption of skin lightening products... The concept and usage behind skin lightening products is not a recent invention. Early uses of skin lightening products date back to ancient Persia and China where civil workers would grind pearls found in seashells into a powdery substance. This was then consumed in a desperate attempt to alter the skin pigmentation of those who used it (Bray, M. 2002). White complexion did not merely represent beauty, nobility, and grace. It represented something much higher, it represented social status for those who craved it. This obsession has not faded over time. If anything, the desire to be white has only increased to unprecedented levels in our society today. This is evident when we look at how popular skin lightening creams have become in places like India (where it has become a 90-100 million industry) (Naresh, 2007 & beyond the pale 2007). What I am interested in is why skin lightening products are so commonly used, despite the fact that several harmful ingredients are applied in its production (such as hydroquinone). I feel that the products appeal and its position in consumer culture can only be explained thoroughly with the use of psychoanalysis and theories of the unconscious. One aspect that psychoanalysis can help us to examine is the way in which the product is marketed and represented to the consumer. In relation to this, Rachel Bowlby identifies how the marketing strategies used to persuade consumers to make purchases have underlying roots in Freuds psychoanalytic concepts of the conscious and the unconscious desires of individuals (Bowlby, R. 1993: 5). Freuds theories of the unconscious involve a belief that, many of our desires and beliefs (especially unacceptable libidinal wishes) are repressed into the unconscious region of our minds. According to this theory we can determine that many individuals may desire something without even realising it (Jacobs, M. 1941: 7). This is largely what Bowlby indicated when explaining how marketing strategies involve a cunning way of tapping into peoples unconscious desires. We can see many prominent examples of this in various advertisements of skin lightening products. One commercial in particular launched by Emami (for its Fair & Handsome product, which is focussed towards men) has caused quite a stir. The advert (which can be seen on youtube & porkolt.com) denotes an Indian man in his

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early 20s vying for the attention of a young attractive Indian female (who is notably much fairer than he is). He is unsuccessful in his attempts to gain her satisfaction (Figure 1), however Sharukh Khan (a famous Bollywood actor) comes in to save day by handing him over Emamis Fair & Handsome product. In a real song-and-dance Bollywood extravaganza, the man reappears several weeks later. He not only looks fair, but he also strides with a sense of confidence. There are several obvious connotations in this advert. The most noteworthy of which is the way that the skin tone of (not just Asian men but) all Asian people is symbolised in a negative way (Naresh, 2007 & beyond the pale 2007). The connotations of dark skin contained in this advert imply a general sense of failure, not only in the Indian males attempt at attracting a female but also the way in which he is generally depicted.

This advert further confirms what Vance Packard stated in relation to Rachel Bowlbys statement, People make irrational choices, and therefore advertisers must know how to market the irrational. Indeed, and Emamis Fair & Handsome product is a testament to the way in which advertisers market irrational desires. However a very intriguing question is why and how irrational desires are created in the first place. It is quite possible that these desires are created by society, and/or unconscious needs. However psychoanalysis also tells us that consumption also provides temporary gratification, sense of comfort, and identity (Jacobs, M. 1941: 7). I believe identity is they key word to focus on here, as it explains to us what exactly consumers are unconsciously purchasing when buying skin lightening products. Bocock also interpreted the consumption of products as a means in which people articulated a sense of identity (Bocock, 1993:17 & 28). By actively being involved in the consumption of such products consumers are likewise, associated to the connotations of these products. In relation to this, we can also assume that when consumers purchase a product like Fair & Handsome they are not merely buying a product. In actuality they are also purchasing an identity. The connotations outlined in the advert of Emamis Fair and Handsome product outline the identity that consumers wish to purchase when buying skin lightening

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products. This also relates to the controversy represented by the advert as it also reinforces prejudices which state that your skin colour will determine how successful you are in life and that youve got to be fair to be anything in life. This is especially true when we look at the way in which the product is designed and packaged, the tagline be fair, be handsome is always used in association with the product (Naresh, 2007 & beyond the pale 2007). In relation to Bocock & Freuds theory on consumption and identity, we can easily confirm that consumers who purchase skin lightening products are trying to purchase an identity in which they are successful and accepted, i.e. by purchasing skin lightening products, consumers are ultimately purchasing social status which will enable them to excel in their social life, and possibly even their career. This can also be seen consistently in the media where many Asian and African models are portrayed in a fairer complexion to their natural skin tone (Figure 2) in relation to this we can only conclude that the unconscious desire to be white seems to be transcendent. However, we should further argue why it is that Freud is so confident that these desires stem from the Unconscious. In relation to the unconscious, Freud also theorized that people reveal what is buried deep inside the Id via slips of the tongue, dreams, jokes and free association (Figure 3). This tells us a lot about ways in which the desire to be white has been revealed and evolved over the ages. Simply looking at the media and browsing through the various adverts related to skin lightening products you can see fairly prevalent evidence which confirms this. For instance when coming back to the advert for the Fair & Handsome product you can read the tagline Be fair, be Handsome and see that this is a slip of the tongue on behalf of the creators of the advert. We can also see how deep rooted the concept of White is right has become by observing the ways in which small children perceive their own skin colour. One researcher, Kenneth Clark did an experiment on black children. The experiment involved two dolls, a white and a black doll, the black children were then asked to choose the doll they liked. The majority of which surprisingly chose the white doll (a reconstruction of this experiment can be seen on YouTube on the following link;

CC3701 http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=qWEXJ-Qd1uw). slips of the tounge. This experiment

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confirms Freuds theory that unconscious desires and beliefs can be revealed through

It seems that Freuds theory regarding the unconscious and unknown desires that are held deep within the id is a good way to explain the irrational choices many consumers make when purchasing skin lightening products. It is a well known fact that these skin lightening products are very harmful to the collagen structure of the skin, however despite this many consumers are blinded by their wants and their needs. It seems reasonable to assume that many consumers are not aware of this thought either. When asked about the reason for making a skin lightening product Emami claimed that the reason they made a skin lightening product for men was because the collagen structure of male skin is very different from that of womens. According to this, Emami claims that men need a cream that is made specifically for their skin type as men are exposed to the suns UV rays 3 times more than women. They are also exposed 5 times more to pollution, and 2 times more to stress factors, not to mention the exposure that men receive from the detrimental effects of shaving continuously (Why Womens Skin Products Are Not as Affective on Men, 2007). Let us ignore the scientific credibility of these statements for the moment, and instead imagine that these claims are true. If Emami are justified in making a skin cream that compensates for the collagen structure of male skin, then why is it also necessary for the Fair & Handsome product to reduce the skin tone of the men that use it? Why didnt Emami create a Fair & Handsome product which doesnt tamper with the complexion of the male skin? The reason being, is because the skin lightening aspect of the product is evidently the main selling point of Fair & Handsome (hence the name). However it is very unfortunate that consumers fall into the traps of advertisers who use psychoanalysis to tap into their needs.

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Figure 1: A young dark skinned Indian male, is taunted and rejected by a notably fairer looking female

Figure 2: Comparisons of Beyonces photo reveal an attempt by loreal to make her seem more white

Figure 3: Diagram representing a free association session

CC3701 Bibliography Bocock, R. (1993). Consumption, London: Routledge Bowlby, R. (1993). Shopping with Freud, London: Routledge

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Bray, M. (2002). Skin Deep: Dying to be white CNN.Com, [internet] May 15. Available at: http://edition.cnn.com/2002/WORLD/asiapcf/east/05/13/asia.whitening/ [Accessed 17th November 2008] Black Doll Test; Available at: http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=qWEXJ-Qd1uw Fair & Handsome, 2007. [Television Advertisement] 24th July 2007. Available at: http://www.porkolt.com/commercials/Fair-and-Handsome-withHandsome-Shahrukh-48968.html Jacobs, M (2004). Psychodynamic counselling in action, London, Sage Naresh, P. (2007). Beyond the Pale: BBC website, [internet] [Accessed 17th Nov 08]. Available at: http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/magazine/7010885.stm (Video Also Available: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qQR7OHR57YA)