Design Concept

FALL.WINTER 2014.15

CONTENTS

03

ornamentation of the Far East and wholesomeness of midcentury Americana piece together for a subtle twist on the past. A new DRESS CODE is enforced, mixing old and new, feminine and masculine.

istory repeats itself in a modern yet romanticized renaissance of early COLONIAL LIFE, Parisian art deco, reigning Russian monarchs, and classic heritage. Romantic dances of the BALLET RUSSE allure and harken back to the beginning of the century. The hazy hardships of the Dust Bowl,

COLONIAL LIFE

04

BALLET RUSSE

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DRESS CODE

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Antiqued and aged lilacs, pewters, whisper grays and moss look wistful and soft. A deep burnished range looks rough and rugged and harkens back to when the West was won.

Rose-hued light permeates a dusty 1920s boudoir setting. Sophisticated tones of olive, lavender and copper evoke the intrigue of a rendezvous at dusk.

A retro uniform vibe plays up the nostalgia through active-inspired aesthetics Homogenized looks speak to the status quo in deep and somber burgundy, evergreen, hazel and mulberry.

COLONIAL LIFE

SOCIO-CULTURAL TRENDS

NATURALLY SYNTHETIC
Renowned as artful manipulations of material, the figurative sculptures of Anna Gillespie are beautifully elemental. Yet the Somerset-based sculptor doesnt just create such art -- she creates nature. The combination of collected acorn caps or beechnut casings with those crafted from bronze and stone epitomizes that which is naturally artificial. The simulation of nature through synthetic material creates an intriguing compromise.

GAME OF THRONES
Returning for its third season, the HBO award-winning series Game of Thrones masterfully combines elements of old world mysticism with territorial claim. Echoing messages of colonialism, the fight for land interweaves several plots while displaying a visual feast for the eyes. The imaginative costumes and scenic design are already spilling over into runway looks, street style ensembles and interior design.

MAP OF THE U.S.

In the piece, America (Burnt/Unburnt), artist Clair Fontaine maps the United States in hundreds of matches. Lending an old fashioned, rustic quality to her work, the matches look weathered and dry in a uniform shade of hazel. Its only once Fontaine lights the piece on fire, the flame spreading rapidly from match to match, that the piece comes alive and possesses a haunting historical vibe.

HISTORY REVEALED
Running until May of 2013, the MET exhibit, Impressionism, Fashion, and Modernity, provides an in-depth look into some of the most intricately constructed garments depicted in infamous Manets, Monets and Zolas. Side by side for the first time, works of art are dramatically displayed next to the actual garments as to amplify not just how accurately they were portrayed, but the involvement behind the historical clothes.

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Colonial Life

Colonial Life

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An unfamiliar world is discovered through curiosity and exploration. A new FRONTIER of settlers and progressive thinkers uncovers alternative lifestyles, and a melting pot of the old and new comes to a boil. Cultural diffusion allows for idea sharing and adaptation among hard working sharecroppers, rustic farmers, ornamented conquistadors, and early American PIONEERs. Daring new flourishes in dress create distinction among the ranks and establish a visual class system. From a simple agrarian lifestyle to the entirely outfitted and adorned, colonial looks span from the peasant to the puritan.

COLONIAL LIFE

FRONTIER
COLONIAL LIFE Antiqued and aged lilacs, pewters, whisper grays and moss look wistful and soft. A deep burnished range looks rough and rugged and harkens back to a colonized world.

PIONEER

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Colonial Life

Colonial Life

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FRONTIER
Arid landscapes produce baked and parched color. An agrarian aesthetic sets the stage for an old Spaghetti Western.
HOME ON THE RANGE
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PG.10

COLONIAL LIFE

02

PLYMOUTH ROCK
01

PG.12

08

COUNTRY BUMPKIN
06

PG.14

10

OREGON TRAIL
14

PG.16

13

11

18

08

Colonial Life

Colonial Life

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HOME ON THE RANGE

FRONTIER

Rugged agrarian cloth has a rough and natural hand. Time-eroded and ancient textiles feel old as the hills. Thick knit bundles of boucl, mohair, alpaca and hide look rustic yet rich.

RUGGED KNITS
1. space-dye boucl 2. one-ply thick and thin yarn 3. mohair/silk 4. alpaca/wool 5. mohair/wool/polyamide

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Colonial Life

Colonial Life

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PLYMOUTH ROCK

FRONTIER

Worn and weathered twill, moleskin, and shearling evoke a foreign colonial mentality. Durable workwear fabrics for labor-intensive days get down and dirty and exemplify the settlers lifestyle.

SUEDE SURFACE WORKWEAR

1. curly lamb shearling 2. printed twill 3. stretch canvas 4. felted and brushed 5. enzyme washed 6. moleskin cotton/polyester 7. micro structure
12 Colonial Life Colonial Life 13

COUNTRY BUMPKIN

FRONTIER

Handicraft twists on classic ditsy, mini check, and micro calico possess a colloquial handmade charm. Traditional pastoral basics look faded and slightly delicate. Teastained grounds and crinkled textures feel homespun and unique.

SIMPLE YARN-DYES & PRINTS

1. tea stain plaid 2. slightly brushed 3. cotton/linen 4. tablecloth chambray 5. homemade tattersall 6. inky simple floral 7. calico mini leaves
14 Colonial Life Colonial Life 15

OREGON TRAIL

FRONTIER

Utilitarian canvas, chambray and modal are put to work in functional and coated finishes. Drab grays paint a picture of live-off-the-land austerity. The American Dream gets pursued in sensible workwear layers.

WORKER HENLEY & JEANS

1. woolen french terry 2. micro modal/alpaca 3. double-faced interock 4. ring spun canvas 5. indigo chambray 6. herringbone and railroad stripe 7. coated cross hatch
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FABRICS & PRINTS

Tea-stained grounds frame the humdrum village repeats of handicraft ditsy florals and weathered shirting stripes. Worn out color combinations subdue patterns until they appear flat and commonplace.

FRONTIER

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Colonial Life

Colonial Life

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PIONEER
Imperial settlers colonize and live by the land. Garnished and adorned, a nouveau riche mindset adds flourish to the countryside.
OLD COUNTRY
03
PG.20

COLONIAL LIFE

02

GENTLEMANS LEAGUE
01

PG.22

04

HIGH SOCIETY
05

PG.24

09

GOLD RUSH
17

PG.26

15

16

12

20

Colonial Life

Colonial Life

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OLD COUNTRY

PIONEER

Coat-weight heavy woolens have a tactile hand. Rural touches like basket weave and hemp yarns feel old and natural. Traditional chevrons and checks are surprisingly revamped in bonded technical combinations.

HEAVY WOOLEN
1. needlebonded chevron/check 2. handloom effect 3. basket weave 4. hopsack canvas 5. hemp and coarse yarn 6. washed wool

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Colonial Life

Colonial Life

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GENTLEMANS LEAGUE

PIONEER

Classic menswear suiting textiles evoke a bespoke, made-to-measure allure. Attention to detail and crafted qualities like clips and yarn dyes lend an ornate feeling to the conventional pinstripe, herringbone and plaid.

OLD FASHIONED SUITING

1. oversized plaid 2. clip dot stripe 3. damask stripe 4. yarn dye shirting 5. broken pinstripe alpaca/cotton 6. worsted herringbone 7. grandad stripe
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HIGH SOCIETY

PIONEER

Tea time-ready chiffon, taffeta and jacquard look dainty and light. Ginger grounds against delicate roses, and fanciful cinnamon colored tapestry florals have subtle elements of ornamentation and antiqued surface sheen.

SOPHISTICATED UNDERPINNING
1. sheer crepe 2. fine tussore 3. printed chiffon 4. tencel/nylon voile 5. gassed mercerized cotton 6. jacquard and clips 7. silk satin 8. silk cloque
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GOLD RUSH

PIONEER

Luxury goes for the gold in elaborate European-inspired mixes. Opulent embellishments and embroidery adorn the surfaces of burnouts, brocades and other indulgent fabrications. Metallic sheen is embedded into rich, plush surfaces.

DECADENT DRESSING
1. wool taperstry jacquards 2. silk matelass 3. moir taffetas 4. silk messaline 5. laser burnout 6. gold embroidery 7. metallic brocade
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FABRICS & PRINTS

Blouse fabrics and decorative flourishes add a sense of occasion to fancy florals, jacquards, and lace. Menswear dobby stripe, tapestry looks, and crest emblems possess a regal and dignified spirit.

PIONEER

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Colonial Life

Colonial Life

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BALLET RUSSE

SOCIO-CULTURAL TRENDS

MODERN ANTIQUES
High-tech 3-D printing is now being used to put a little old fashioned charm back into innovation. The Smart Replicas project by Dutch designer Maaike Roozenburg recreates centuries old antiques and relics in exact likeness, so much so that they can actually replace the real objects in museums. The project will enable smart phone interaction with the antiques and will go into prototype testing in late 2013.

THE GOLDEN AGE

Baz Luhrmanns re-imagining of the classic 20s novel and 1974 film The Great Gatsby is anticipated to have a profound effect across the cultural spectrums. From the drop waists, bob cuts and fringed hemlines to multiple pearl strands and feather boas, the movie is ripe for strong fashion interpretation. Said to release at the Cannes Film Festival on May 15, critics are excitedly anticipating the psychedelic visuals Luhrmann is famous for creating.

SIDEWALK CHALK
The chalk medium is no longer limited to scribbles and doodles. The old childhood game of sidewalk chalk gets a sophisticated and artistic update thanks to artist Francois Pelletier. Incredibly achieving the likeness of famous works of art, Pelletier carefully transfers oil paintings stroke by stroke in chalk on to the street, viewable to passersby and vulnerable to stomping feet. Making it no longer necessary to view in a gallery, pictured here is the chalk masterpiece of La Treille by William-Adolphe Bouguereau.

EAST MEETS WEST

In a beautiful combination of Western architecture and Eastern craft, artist Babak Golkar has seamlessly integrated skyscrapers into Persian carpets. Golkar treats the patterned carpet as a blue print for the base of his structures, and then extrapolates that to a fully erected New York City-style skyscraper. The contrast is stark and intriguing while underlining the magic to be made when melding Eastern and Western cultures and concepts.

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Ballet Russe

Ballet Russe

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BALLET RUSSE

Romantic gestures and exotic treasures fuse together for an elegant assembly of eclectic worldliness. Blurred and hazed color looks subdued and alluring. French coquettes and showgirls primp and pamper in dim lit boudoirs. Dainty doilies and dripping beads adorn sophisticated mademoiselles and naive LOLITAs head to toe. Enticing folkloric fantasies of the Far East conjure up a cultured longing for the foreign. Overly ornamented takes on bohemian style manifest in luxurious color and fabric. A trip on the ORIENT EXPRESS inspires, intrigues and infatuates.

LOLITA
BALLET RUSSE Rose-hued light permeates a dusty 1920s boudoir setting. Sophisticated tones of olive, lavender and copper evoke the intrigue of a rendezvous at dusk.

ORIENT EXPRESS

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Ballet Russe

Ballet Russe

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LOLITA
French coquettes and expert seductresses appear as damsels in distress. Poetic pastels and rich vegetable dyes spark another Renaissance.
DAMSEL IN DISTRESS
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PG.38

BALLET RUSSE

20

LA VIE EN ROSE
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PG.40

22

FORTUNE TELLER
23

PG.42

24

25

26

27

28

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Ballet Russe

Ballet Russe

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DAMSEL IN DISTRESS

LOLITA

Debauchery unfolds around a 1920s boudoir setting where waif-like flapper girls lay in wait. Tender floral satin, Chanel tweeds, luscious velvet, and glimmering voile effuse a romantic and alluring aura.

BULKY TWEED & FLUID SATIN

1. chanel-inspired tweed 2. velvet 3. stitch relief merino 4. printed satin 5. shimmer voile 6. silk broadcloth 7. twill crepe
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LA VIE EN ROSE

LOLITA

Scenes from a French foreign film play out in dusky cosmetic shades. Ultra feminine lingerie-inspired pleats, embroidery and shimmer look dainty and fragile. Seeing the world through rose-colored lenses casts an entrancing view of double knits, tulle and brocade.

PRECIOUS BLANKET & FANCY CHEMISE

1. shimmer double knits 2. basketweave tweed 3. velveteen 4. mechanical pleats 5. embroidered tulle 6. sheer jacquard crepe 7. metallic brocade
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FORTUNE TELLER

LOLITA

A flare for the theatric culminates in an oracles premonition of a blooming, mysterious future. Hazy, dusty hues look mystical and Old World in deluxe velvet, chunky tweed, lightweight/pajama-weight geo jacquard, and lustrous chiffon.

SILK VELVET & BREEZY CHIFFON

1. bulky tweed 2. silk velvet 3. embroidered tulle 4. iridescent chiffon 5. dot jacquard 6. burnout velvet 7. wool lace
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FABRICS & PRINTS

Dainty potpourri-hued compositions appear heavily influenced by the Far East and vintage art deco. Intricate foliage is depicted in winding swirls and dizzying repeats.

LOLITA

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Ballet Russe

Ballet Russe

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ORIENT EXPRESS
Rich and exotic colors dance and swirl around intricate tile patterns, forgotten empires, folkloric wallpaper and lavish tapestries.
THE SILK ROAD
26
PG.48

BALLET RUSSE

27

FOLK LURE PG.50

28

29

MADAME BUTTERFLY
30

PG.52

32

MOULIN ROUGE
33

PG.54

34

35

36

46

Ballet Russe

Ballet Russe

47

THE SILK ROAD

ORIENT EXPRESS

Far Eastern riches have travelled great distances to pepper into a worldly assortment. An exotic appeal is peaked by handicraft stitching and appliqus, glossy matelass, hefty upholstery brocades, and royal ottoman jacquard.

HAND EMBROIDERY & ORNATE BROCADE

1. appliqu and hand stitching 2. over embroidery 3. uneven brocade 4. ottoman jacquard 5. silk/cotton/wool 6. matte and shine matelass

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Ballet Russe

Ballet Russe

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FOLK LURE

ORIENTAL EXPRESS

Ornamental and over-the-top surfaces add shinning facets and places of interest in a folkloric story. Gleaming foil printing on velvet, luxe jacquard and exotic tapestries promises a glamorous and foreign journey.

FOLKLORIC JACQUARD & PRINT

1. floral tweed 2. tonal jacquard 3. ornate tapestry 4. foil printed velvet 5. folkloric jacquard 6. metallic brocade

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Ballet Russe

Ballet Russe

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MADAME BUTTERFLY

ORIENT EXPRESS

An eclectic fusion of Asian and Byzantine flourishes comes together in a rush of Old World fantasy. Geisha house kimonos, Oriental-inspired silk brocade and Eastern relief jacquard depict a stunning scene from a tragic opera.

KIMONO VELVET & SILK

1. relief jacquard 2. silk velvet 3. japanese kimono 4. silk/wool tapestry 5. wool etamine 6. silk brocade 7. flock print velvet
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MOULIN ROUGE

ORIENTAL EXPRESS

A theatric display of provocative satin, alluring metallic jacquard and opulent lasercut leather tells a timeless tale of Parisian promiscuity. Fanciful foulards and eccentric diamond quilts leave much to the imagination.

DOBBY & SATIN

1. laser-cut leather 2. dobby weave 3. diamond quilt 4. metallic jacquard 5. mini foulard 6. double-faced satin 7. heat print satin
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FABRICS & PRINTS

Exotic patterns straight from a Japanese screen grace every facet. Vivid color and dark grounds look rich and saturated. A flair for the foreign is expressed through Byzantine pattern work in tapestry and wallpaper.

ORIENTAL EXPRESS

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Ballet Russe

Ballet Russe

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DRESS CODE

SOCIO-CULTURAL TRENDS

HIDE AND SEEK

Hidden gadgets, discreet enhancements, and that which is innovative yet functional define the new age of wearable technology. With a subtler quality and more organic feel, todays performance clothing is less about in-your-face developments and more about lifestyle integration. Artefact is a company that constantly pushes the envelope in striving for the most seamless modwells, tiny modules incorporated subtly into fashion that collect and transmit your health data, pictured here.

VINTAGE TECH
The Polaroid camera has long been a symbol for vintage, obsolete technology. The photosharing app Instragram even borrowed one incarnation for their logo. Yet the new Socialmatic camera goes a step further with this retro approach to tech, actually implementing a Polaroid design that simultaneously speaks to the vintage quality and instant gratification of the Polaroid camera, while enabling it with Instagram-sharing web access.

SOCCKET TO ME
The New York start-up Uncharted Play has recently decided to go to market with the innovative mini generator that is Soccket. Treated as a soccer ball, the more you kick this technologically enhanced ball the more electricity you generate, converting play into power. Originally envisioned to aid Third World countries, the socially conscious soccer ball unites athleticism and innovation for the common good.

BOND. JAMES BOND.

An etiquette survival manual for the modern day gentleman, the Gentlemans Academy located in New York City strives to turn every Average Joe into James Bond. Boasting classes on dressing, mannerisms and style and emphasizing ideals of dignity, honor and virtue, founder Michael Leopolt epitomizes all these things in his personal lifestyle.

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Dress Code

Dress Code

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Coordinated attire and ensembles look to the past for a modern makeover. Minimal masculinity feels sober y e t n e w. C l a s s i c h e r i t a g e l o o k s , competitive activewear, and scholarly collegiate ideas are revamped through nostalgic and vintage notions. Iconic tried and true looks emerge as the reigning CHAMPION and are the height of sophisticated styling. An understood status quo amplifies the expected code of dress. Pre-ordained rules and regulations governing dress are upheld by ACADEMY standards and preserved through time. Discreet homogenized looks are able to blend in while standing out.

DRESS CODE

CHAMPION
DRESS CODE A retro uniform vibe plays up the nostalgia through active-inspired aesthetics. Homogenized looks speak to the status quo in somber burgundy, evergreen and hazel.

ACADEMY

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Dress Code

Dress Code

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CHAMPION
Traditional Americana prep gets a technological twist through subtle active-inspired details. Brights combine with neutrals for a casual statement.
OLD SCHOOL
37
PG.64

DRESS CODE

38

HONORS SOCIETY
39

PG.66

40

THE A-TEAM
31

PG.68

03

BADGE OF HONOR
04

PG.70

45

34

47

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Dress Code

Dress Code

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OLD SCHOOL

CHAMPION

Functional fabrics get a classic twist that hides their practicality in a modernized take on the age old uniform. Double-faced preppy plaid is paired with bonded backing. Unlikely luxury duos like tweed and neoprene are heat pressed together to form a new spin on performance.

DOUBLE-FACED BASIC
1. prince of wales plaid 2. double-faced spacer jersey 3. spacer viscose/wool 4. nylon-backed jersey 5. neoprene-backed tweed 6. double gabardine
64 Dress Code Dress Code 65

HONORS SOCIETY

CHAMPION

Densely knit textiles have an added touch of relaxed plush in brushed and swept surfaces. Highly technical qualities look ultra compact and light yet almost studious in washed flannel, wool felt and brushed iconic glen check.

BRUSHED & COMPACT

1. synthetic melton polyester/viscose 2. brushed glen check 3. washed flannel 4. tonal tweed 5. wool felt 6. compact crepe wool/nylon 7. wool chino
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THE A-TEAM

CHAMPION

Athletic accents like classic sailor buttons and rip stripe tape give a scholarly appeal. A vintage collegiate approach is taken to fine tweed, rich Bedford cord, stretch gabardine and wool jersey.

CLASSIC & DENSE

1. broken twill tweed 2. dense knit 3. overlock wool jersey 4. double weave crepe 5. stretch gabardine 6. bedford cord

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Dress Code

Dress Code

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BADGE OF HONOR

CHAMPION

Merits of distinction are donned proudly and honorably by the top of the class. A preppy undertone lends an Americana vibe as traditional cashmere jersey, Prince of Wales check and wool fleece are captured in a timeless mlange.

LUXURIOUS KNITS
1. cashmere jersey 2. prince of wales 3. mlange jersey 4. wool fleece 5. hair interlock 6. merino stripe

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Dress Code

Dress Code

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FABRICS & PRINTS

Team players and varsity stars are decked out in monograms and numbers. Preppy basics like plaid, cable knit and stripes are expected yet updated in muddier, tonal colorways.

CHAMPION

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Dress Code

Dress Code

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ACADEMY
Prestigious dressing is re-envisioned through structured yet performance-driven separates. Deepened neutrals look sophisticated and sharp.
EYE SPY
34
PG.76

DRESS CODE

36

DOUBLE AGENT
33

PG.78

41

ALTER EGO
42

PG.80

43

SECRET SOCIETY
44

PG.82

45

46

48

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Dress Code

Dress Code

75

EYE SPY

ACADEMY

Discreet and camouflaged looks blend in and out of the background. Uniform basics look bold and sharp with added performance elements. Laminated felt, resin coating, and fleece-backed nylon lend a sleek hand to traditional textures.

PERFORMANCE COATING
1. fleece-backed nylon 2. technical cotton/polyamide 3. jersey backed 4. resin coated 5. wool/polyester bonded 6. laminated felt
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DOUBLE AGENT

ACADEMY

Plaid-on-plaid duets suit up in tailored and neat ensembles. Dapper and oversized variations zoom in to breathe new life into the classic staple. Felted windowpane, double-weave and heathered plaid look three-piece suit ready and matchy-matchy.

OVERSIZED PLAIDS
1. heathered plaid 2. shadow check 3. rigid drill 4. felted windowpane 5. bulky double weave

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Dress Code

Dress Code

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ALTER EGO

ACADEMY

Double agents are artfully homogenized in formal, gentlemanly suiting. Espionage is achieved through anonymity in clan plaid, pinstripe and dobby weave. Neoprene bonding adds an active practicality.

FORMAL SUITINGS
1. dobby weave back 2. luminous pinstripe 3. neoprene bonded 4. classic pinstripe 5. windowpane check 6. clan plaid

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Dress Code

Dress Code

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SECRET SOCIETY

ACADEMY

Classified information is kept hidden behind a private agenda. A preppy front is maintained by schoolboy stripes, silk tie prints and classic tartan. Civilized regalia has a modernized outfit edge.

CLUB STRIPE & SILK TIE

1. silk tartan 2. schoolboy stripe 3. sateen club stripe 4. ribbon silk leno 5. silk taffetas 6. tie stripe 7. compact sateen
82 Dress Code Dress Code 83

FABRICS & PRINTS

Dapper prints evoke the essence of three-piece suits, silk foulards, chivalry and James Bond-esque style. Classic ticking stripes, plaids and tweed form a timeless combination.

ACADEMY

84

Dress Code

Dress Code

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