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Table 3 provides the international standard sewing thread tex numbers. These numbers are fixed based on the grey thread sizing range and it cannot be altered or modified. In other words, no sewing thread manufacturer can have his own tex numbering system and the numbers as outlined below is the standard tex numbers for the entire thread industry. This practice has been converted to international standard namely ASTM D3823 - 94: 'Standard Practice for Determining Ticket Number for Sewing Threads'.

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Glossary of terms used in various yarn numbering systems
S E W I N G
sewing thread, n - A flexible small diameter yarn or twisted strand, usually treated with a surface coating, lubricant or both, intended to be used to stitch one or more pieces of material or an object to a material. tex size number, n - the number assigned to a sewing thread to designate its approximate linear density. The tex number is an indicator of the minimum amount of fibre present. The smaller the number, the finer the thread (lesser amount of fibre); and the larger the number, the coarser the thread (greater amount of fibre). tex, n - a unit of expressing linear density, equal to the mass in grams of 1 km of yarn, filament, thread, fibre or textile strand. linear density, n - mass per unit length; the quotient obtained by dividing the mass of a fibre or yarn by its length. grey thread, n - unfinished sewing thread after final twisting or an equivalent step in a processing sequence such as extruding, texturing or braiding. cotton count (NeC), n - the number of 840 yard lengths of yarn per pound; an indirect yarn numbering system generally used for yarns/threads spun on the cotton system. denier (den), n - a direct yarn numbering system for expressing linear density, equal to the mass in grams per 9000 m of yarn, filament, fibre or other textile strand.
Reference: ASTM Standard D3823 - 1994 ATMI booklet on "We've got your Number"

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linen count (NeL ), n - the number of 300 yard lengths of yarn per pound; an indirect yarn numbering system. worsted count (NeW ), n - the number of 560 yard lengths of yarn per pound; an indirect yarn numbering system genially used for yarns spun on the worsted system. metric count (Nm), n - the number of metres of yarn per gram; an indirect yarn numbering system. yarn number, n - a measure of the fineness or size of a yarn expressed either as 'mass per unit length' or length per unit mass' depending upon the yarn numbering system used. yarn numbering system, n - a system expressing the size of a yarn as a relationship between its length and associated mass. direct yarn numbering system, n - a system that expresses yarn number in mass per unit length indirect yarn numbering system, n a system that expresses yarn number in length per unit mass or reciprocal of linear density. indirect yarn numbering system, n - a system that expresses yarn number in length per unit mass or reciprocal of linear density.

Table 3 - International Standard Tex Numbering System 1 10 21 35 60 105 210 350 2 12 24 40 70 120 240 400 3 14 27 45 80 135 270 450 4 16 30 50 90 150 300 500 180 5 18 6 7 8 9

S O L U T I O N S

International Tex Numbering System

F R O M

The tex number for thread having resultant grey thread of 500 tex and greater will be in steps of 100 for each 100 tex number increase in the resultant grey thread sizing in tex. Table 4 includes a series of conversion factors required to convert the number of a yarn/thread measured in a specific system to the equivalent number measured in various other systems. The conversion factor is consistent with recommendations of the International Organisation for Standardisation (ISO) Standard 2947. This new tex numbering system will help every one in the industry to select the proper size thread for specific application when comparing threads of the same fibre and type. However, when comparing threads of different fibres or types, the same tex number will not necessarily imply that the threads are interchangeable since the Tex numbers are based on a range of grey thread size and not definitive in nature.

C O A T S

tex tex dtex den Nm NeC NeW NeL tex x 10 tex x 9 1000 tex 590.54 tex 885.8 tex 1653.5 tex

Table 4 - Conversion factors for various numbering systems dtex den Nm NeC NeW dtex 10 Den 9 den 0.9 Dtex x 0.9 10000 dtex 5905.4 dtex 8858 dtex 16535 dtex 9000 den 5314.9 den 7972.3 den 14882 den Nm x 0.5905 Nm x 0.8858 Nm x 1.6535 NeC x1.5 NeC x 2.8 NeW x 1.87 1000 Nm 10000 Nm 9000 Nm 590.54 NeC 5905.4 NeC 5314.9 NeC NeC x 1.6934 885.8 NeW 8858 NeW 7972.3 NeW NeW x 1.13 NeW 1.5

NeL 1653.5 NeL 16535 NeL 14882 NeL NeL x 0.6048 NeL 2.8 NeL 1.87

Nm = metric count

NeC = cotton count

NeW= worsted count

NeL = linen count

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Introduction

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Tex Numbering System - Measurement

Table 2 represents the graphical representation of increments in tex number for a given range based on Table 1 Table 2 - Graphical Representation of Tex Numbers

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Sewing threads are produced in a range of sizes and strengths to suit a wide variety of end uses. When choosing a thread for a particular application, the size (thickness) or the linear density and the strength must be considered. Selecting the correct size of thread for a particular application is very important to its performance during sewing and in the seam. Thread choice depends upon many factors, including seam strength required, fabric weight and type, end use, stitch type, seam type and needle size. The textile industry is very old and as a result different ways have evolved in many countries to express the size of yarns and threads. In addition, there are variations in the way size is expressed depending on whether the thread is synthetic or natural. This can sometimes make comparisons between countries confusing.

The tex system has been recommended under the SI system (Systeme International D Unite's) for general adoption in order to unify the various yarn count systems. The tex system for designation of the linear density of fibres and yarns is a direct system based on mass per unit length and employs metric units of length and mass. The mass per unit length concept of linear density is applicable to any material which has a high ratio of length to cross section.

Thread sizes are based on average resultant grey thread size in tex. A measured length of conditioned grey thread is weighed and the resultant size is expressed in tex. The standard procedure employed for determination of sizing of the yarn or thread is ASTM D204. Tex numbers are assigned as per Table 1. Table 1 - Tex Number
Resultant Grey thread size in Tex Up to but not including 2 2 to but not including 3 3 to but not including 4 4 to but not including 5 5 to but not including 6 6 to but not including 7 7 to but not including 8 8 to but not including 9 9 to but not including 10 10 to but not including 12 12 to but not including 14 14 to but not including 16 16 to but not including 18 18 to but not including 21 21 to but not including 24 24 to but not including 27 27 to but not including 30 30 to but not including 35 35 to but not including 40 Tex Number 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 12 14 16 18 21 24 27 30 35 Resultant Grey thread size in Tex 40 to but not including 45 45 to but not including 50 50 to but not including 60 60 to but not including 70 70 to but not including 80 80 to but not including 90 90 to but not including 105 105 to but not including 120 120 to but not including 135 135 to but not including 150 150 to but not including 180 180 to but not including 210 210 to but not including 240 240 to but not including 270 270 to but not including 300 300 to but not including 350 350 to but not including 400 400 to but not including 450 450 to but not including 500 500 to but not including 600 Tex Number 40 45 50 60 70 80 90 105 120 135 150 180 210 240 270 300 350 400 450 500

500 450 400 350 300 270 240 210 180 150 135 120 105 90 80 70 60 50 45 40 35 30 27 24 21 18 16 14 12 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
+1 +2 +3 +5 +10 Increments +15 + 30 + 50

Tex
Tex is the weight in grams of a 1000 metre length of thread. It was chosen for sewing thread size numbering for two reasons: first, because metric designations are used worldwide, and tex is a metric system. Second, since tex is a direct numbering system, logical tex numbers are assigned...the finer the thread, the smaller the assigned number, and the coarser the thread, the larger the assigned number. Tex numbers assigned to thread are based on the actual tex size of the constructed thread in the grey thread state (extruded, braided or twisted thread before dyeing, finishing or special processing). By using grey thread sizing, the assigned tex number can be an accurate measurement of the amount of raw material used in that thread. A normal ticket number based on finished thread size would be less, revealing and might mislead you regarding the amount of raw material present This is because thread finishing processes such as bleaching, dyeing, lubrication and the addition of speciality finishes alter the thread's apparent size.

Tex Numbering System

The most widespread system now is the tex system, which is used by world trade institutions and the thread industry. In addition you will come across Metric Count (Nm) - used for synthetics, Cotton Count (Ne) for traditional natural products and Denier (den ) for continuous filament synthetics. The above three units use a ticket numbering system to give easy approximations of the specific size of the finished thread, although a ticket number in one type of thread will not be the same as in another (for example Tkt. 40 Cotton is not the same size as Tkt.40 Core spun). No doubt you will agree that ticket numbers should be informative rather than confusing. The thread industry, through its various international trade associations & standards council has standardised the sewing thread size numbers. The new size numbers are based on the tex system of yarn numbering. This new international tex numbering system is more uniform and it is regardless of raw material or thread type.

Tex Number