www.francemag.

com FRANCE MAGAZINE 47

.JEOJHIU
JO1BSJT
Woody Allen pays homage to the
City of Light, past and present, in his
Oscar-winning film. Alison Weeks
follows in the characters footsteps
48 FRANCE MAGAZINE www.francemag.com
I
n 1964, u young stund-up comediun numed Woody
AIIen peiloimed u new ioutine in cIubs ucioss tle
US ubout u lictitious tiip to Euiope in tle 1920s, in
wlicl le imugined limseIl mingIing witl tle Iiteiuiy
set ol Einest Hemingwuy, Geitiude Stein und Scott
FitzgeiuId wlen tley uII Iived in Puiis. In tle ioutine,
AIIen desciibed low le ciitiqued Hemingwuy's liist
noveI und Hemingwuy puncled me in tle moutl". He
tlen iecounted dilleient scenuiios, eucl witl tle sume
iesuIt, beloie tle gug ended witl u neut twist.
He cuIIed tle ioutine -PTU(FOFSBUJPO und wliIe it
sounds Iike un unIikeIy subject loi u stund-up uct,
uudiences Ioved it. Now, uImost S0 yeuis Iutei, tle oId
joke lus tuken on u new Iile in .JEOJHIUJO1BSJT, AIIen's
Iiglt-leuited tuIe ubout u disiIIusioned Ameiicun wiitei
wlo stumbIes buck into 1920s Puiis.
.JEOJHIUJO1BSJT lus been tle wiitei-diiectoi's
biggest box ollice lit to dute, us weII us u ciiticuI success,
winning tle Oscui loi Best OiiginuI ScieenpIuy ut tle
2012 Acudemy Awuids. Wlen usked ubout tle oiiginuI
ideu loi tle sciipt, AIIen udmitted coming up witl tle
titIe liist und tlen buiIding tle stoiy uiound it. He knew
le wunted to muke u liIm in Puiis. I wunted to slow tle
city emotionuIIy, tle wuy I leIt ubout it," AIIen toId
u news conleience ut tle 2011 Cunnes FiIm FestivuI.
It didn't muttei to me low ieuI it wus oi wlut it
ielIected. I just wunted it to be tle wuy I suw Puiis. It
wus Puiis tliougl my eyes."
As it tuins out, Puiis tliougl AIIen's eyes is even
moie deIigltluI tlun tle ieuI tling. Tle liIm opens witl
un induIgent montuge ol city scenes, set to tle duIcet
sounds ol u soIo cIuiinet und, us tle stoiy unloIds, AIIen
tukes us on u movubIe leust tliougl tle City ol Liglt,
botl pust und piesent. Using u time-tiuveI device tlut is
nevei luIIy expIuined (one cun onIy imugine tleie is
u #BDLUPUIF'VUVSF styIe lIux cupucitoi in tle Peugeot
used), le tiunspoits us to Puiis in tle Rouiing Twenties.
Howevei, tle liIm begins ut modein-duy Giveiny,
noitl-west ol tle cupituI, in tle guidens ol CIuude
Monet, wleie we meet GiI Pendei (Owen WiIson) und
lis liuncee Inez (RucleI McAdums), wlo uie visiting
Fiunce witl lei iiglt-wing, unti-Fiencl puients. Fed up
witl modein Iile, GiI wuxes poetic ubout giving up lis
cuieei us u HoIIywood scieenwiitei to move to Puiis und
wiite lis noveI.
In contiust to GiI's dieums ol bolemiun Iile, tle liIm
liglIiglts some ol tle most bouigeois Iocutions in Puiis,
incIuding tle Iuxuiious HteI Le BiistoI, wleie le und
Inez uie stuying. Set umong some ol tle most expensive
slops in Puiis, incIuding Pieiie Cuidin und Heims,
tlis loteI in tle 8tl uiiondissement lus Iong been
u luvouiite witl ceIebiities. Tle dinnei witl Inez's
puients tukes pIuce ut un equuIIy upscuIe venue, Le
Giund Veloui, neui tle PuIuis-RoyuI, wlicl once losted
tle Iikes ol NupoIeon und Josepline. Heie we meet
Inez's pseudo-inteIIectuuI liiend PuuI (MiclueI Sleen),
wlo scolls ut GiI's ideuIistic view ol 1920s Puiis.
Picusso puinting
Accompunied by PuuI und lis wile CuioI (Ninu
Aiiundu), tley toui tle sites ol Puiis: VeisuiIIes, tle
Musee Rodin, wleie PuuI contiudicts tle toui guide
(CuiIu Biuni, wile ol loimei Fiencl Piesident NicoIus
Suikozy) ubout tle scuIptoi's mistiess, und tle Musee
de I'Oiungeiie, wleie GiI linuIIy puts PuuI in lis pIuce
witl lis new-lound, insidei knowIedge ol u PubIo
Picusso puinting. Inez und lei motlei diug GiI on
seveiuI slopping spiees uiound Puiis und tley
contempIute buying some untique cluiis ut PliIippe de
Beuuvuis in BouIevuid de CouiceIIes loi C18,000.
Tley uIso visit tle Muicle uux Puces de Suint-Ouen,
wleie GiI leuis u CoIe Poitei song on un oId
giumoplone und liist meets GubiieIIe, u young Puiisiun
wlo sluies lis tuste in music.
Wlen GiI tukes u soIituiy stioII uiound tle Lelt Bunk,
le puuses on tle steps ol Suint-Etienne-du-Mont, wlicl
louses tle sliine ol Suinte Genevive, tle pution suint
ol Puiis, us weII us tle tombs ol tle pliIosoplei BIuise
PuscuI und pIuywiiglt Jeun Rucine. Fiom leie, GiI is
wlisked uwuy in u mysteiious Peugeot to u puity on
Quui de Bouibon. He linuIIy ieuIises sometling is umiss
wlen le is intioduced to u coupIe numed Scott und
ZeIdu FitzgeiuId, und toId tlut tle peison pIuying -FUT
%P*U on tle piuno is CoIe Poitei limseIl.
As GiI stuits to undeistund tlut lis dieum ol seeing
Puiis in tle 1920s lus come tiue, we uie intioduced to
u cuvuIcude ol Iegenduiy liguies, liom Hemingwuy to
Picusso, us weII us tle pIuces tley liequented. Tlese
incIude Biicktop's, tle nigltcIub wleie GiI stunds ugupe
wutcling tle duncei Josepline Bukei. In tle liIm, tle
BELOW: The
Polidor restaurant,
where Gil (Owen
Wilson) meets
Ernest Hemingway
in Midnight in
Paris, and the
launderette that
features in the
same sequence
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Pont Alexandre III
glistens in the rain
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www.francemag.com FRANCE MAGAZINE 49
cIub uppeuis to be ut 17 Rue MuIebiuncle neui tle
Juidins du Luxembouig (coincidentuIIy u buiIding wlicl
leutuied us Audiey Hepbuin's lome in tle 19S7 liIm
-PWFJOUIF"GUFSOPPO). Numed ultei tle Aliicun-
Ameiicun duncei und nigltcIub ownei Adu 'Biicktop'
Smitl, tle ieuI Clez Biicktop wus Iocuted ut 73 und
tlen 66 Rue PiguIIe (now Rue Jeun-Buptiste PiguIIe).
GiI liist meets Hemingwuy ut one ol lis ieguIui
luunts, tle Ciemeiie Restuuiunt PoIidoi in tle Lutin
Quuitei. In tle liIm, tle iestuuiunt uppeuis onIy in tle
mugicuI midniglt loui und is iepIuced by u Iuundeiette
duiing tle duy; in ieuIity tle PoIidoi is stiII ut its
oiiginuI uddiess on Rue Monsieui Ie Piince (tle
Iuundeiette used in tle liIm is luitlei down tle stieet).
Hemingwuy tukes GiI to visit unotlei exput wiitei,
Geitiude Stein, ut lei lome ut 27 Rue de FIeuius. Stein
spent mucl ol lei uduIt Iile in Puiis und uItlougl lei
louse is not open to tle pubIic, u pIuque commemoiutes
lei time tleie. It's leie tlut GiI meets Picusso und lis
mistiess Adiiunu (Muiion CotiIIuid).
Funny Face (1957)
It doesnt get more elegant
than Audrey Hepburn in Paris,
unless its Audrey Hepburn
dancing with Fred Astaire in
Paris. This classic musical
features a number of
landmarks including Le Caveau
de la Huchette jazz cellar
(where Hepburn dances,
dressed in black).
Everyone Says I Love You
(1996)
Partially set in Paris, this all-star
musical was Woody Allens
earlier go at filming in France.
The finale features a classic
scene with Allen and Goldie
Hawn dancing on Quai de la
Tournelle beside the Seine.
Before Sunset (2004)
A sequel to Before Sunrise, about
an American tourist who meets
a French girl on a train, Before
Sunset picks up the story nine
years on in Paris. Starting at the
Shakespeare and Company
bookstore, the couple (Ethan
Hawke and Julie Delpy) catch
up while meandering through
the streets of Paris. (See our
interview with Delpy on page 74).
2 Days in Paris (2007)
This biting romantic comedy
about a New Yorker visiting
Paris with his French wife (Julie
Delpy again) shows a more
authentic side of Paris. Dont
expect any clich Tour Eiffel
scenes, as most of the film was
shot at grittier locations around
the Gare du Nord.
Julie and Julia (2009)
This comedy-drama features
food writer Julia Childs
experiences at Le Cordon Bleu
cookery school in the 1950s
and offers beautiful scenes of
retro Paris. Much of the filming
took place on the Left Bank,
including at the market on Rue
Mouffetard where Julia (Meryl
Streep, pictured above) declares
that she must be French.
PARIS ON THE SILVER SCREEN
ABOVE: A trip to
Versailles for (from
left) Paul (Michael
Sheen), Carol (Nina
Arianda), Inez
(Rachel McAdams)
and Gil (Owen
Wilson)
Although filmed entirely on a Hollywood backlot, American
in Paris (1952), starring Gene Kelly and Leslie Caron, set the
standard for a new genre of film. Here are some other classic
movies about Americans in Paris:
MIDNIGHT IN PARIS

FRANCOFILE
WHERE TO STAY
Htel Le Bristol
112 Rue du Faubourg
Saint-Honor
75008 Paris
Doubles from 850.
Midnight in Paris
package from 1,090.
Tel: (Fr) 1 45 74 68 59
www.lebristolparis.com
Htel dAngleterre
44 Rue Jacob
75006 Paris
Tel: (Fr) 1 42 60 34 72
www.hotel-
dangleterre.com
Although not featured
in the film, this charming
hotel once hosted
Ernest Hemingway and
his wife in room 14.
Doubles from 184.
WHERE TO EAT
Crmerie Restaurant
Polidor
41 Rue Monsieur le
Prince, 75006 Paris
Tel: (Fr) 1 43 26 95 34
www.polidor.com
Menus from 24.
Le Grand Vfour
17 Rue de Beaujolais
75001 Paris
Tel: (Fr) 1 42 96 56 27
www.grand-vefour.com
Main courses from 80.
Maxims de Paris
3 Rue Royale
75008 Paris
Tel: (Fr) 1 42 65 27 94
www.maxims-
de-paris.com
Menus from 110.
114 Faubourg
Htel Le Bristol
Brasserie with lunch
menu for 52, main
courses from 28.
WHAT TO DO
Saint-tienne-du-Mont
Rue de la Montagne-
Sainte-Genevive
75005 Paris
Tel: (Fr) 1 43 54 11 79
www.saintetienne
dumont.fr
Maison Deyrolle
46 Rue du Bac
75007 Paris
Tel: (Fr) 1 42 22 30 07
www.deyrolle.com
Moulin Rouge
82 Boulevard de Clichy
75018 Paris
Tel: (Fr) 1 53 09 82 82
www.moulinrouge.fr
Muse Rodin
79 Rue de Varenne
75007 Paris
Tel: (Fr) 1 44 18 61 10
www.musee-rodin.fr
March Paul-Bert
Rue des Rosiers
93400 Saint-Ouen
Tel: (Fr) 8 05 69 62 96
www.paulbert.
antiquites-en-france.com
Muse des Arts Forains
Pavillons de Bercy
53 Avenue des Terroirs
de France
Tel: (Fr) 1 43 40 16 22
www.arts-forains.com
On the Woody Allen film trail in Paris
TOURIST
INFORMATION
Paris tourist office
25 Rue des Pyramides
75001 Paris
Tel: (Fr) 1 49 52 42 63
www.parisinfo.com
It seems tlut eveiy time GiI ietuins tc tle 1920s, le
linds limseIl ut yet unctlei sciiee. Tle puity tlut
uppeuis tc be scmewleie in Mcntmuitie wus uctuuIIy
liImed ut tle Musee des Aits Fciuins, u ccIIecticn cl
luiigicund uit in Beicy in scutl-eust Puiis. Tle
SuiieuIist wedding puity, wleie GiI cIeveiIy pitcles tle
ideu lci Tlc Fxtctminating Angc| tc its lutuie diiectci
Luis BuueI, wus slct ut Muiscn DeyicIIe, u tuxideimy
museum cn Rue du Buc in tle 7tl uiicndissement.
Hcise-diuwn cuiiiuge
GiI uIsc gces buck tc tle BeIIe Epcque eiu, visiting
Muxim's iestuuiunt in Rue RcyuIe cn tle Riglt Bunk
und tle McuIin Rcuge in Mcntmuitie wleie le meets
tle uitists TcuIcuse-Luutiec, PuuI Guuguin und Edgui
Degus (wlc cIuim tle ieuI gcIden uge wus tle
Renuissunce). He is tuken tleie licm PIuce Duupline cn
tle Ie de Iu Cite by u lcise-diuwn cuiiiuge tlut lud
stcpped in licnt cl Restuuiunt PuuI. Tlis wus u luvcuiite
luunt cl liIm stuis Yves Mcntund und Simcne Signciet,
wlc Iived in un upuitment ubcve.
Tle cinute Pcnt AIexundie III picvides tle setting
lci tle linuI sequence us GiI decides wleie lis lutuie
Iies. AIIen seems tc be suggesting tlut it is lccIisl tc
icmunticise pievicus eius becuuse pecpIe tlen weie
uIsc Iccking lci u gcIden uge. Even sc, lis pcitiuyuI cl
bygcne Puiis is sc enclunting tlut le seems tc luve
cieuted u gcIden uge cl lis cwn.
Midniglt in Puiis is avai|ao|c on u\u jtom Sony Pictutcs
Homc Fntcttainmcnt, pticc $19.99.
50 FRANCE MAGAZINE www.francemag.com
RIGHT: Gil and Inez
in Monets gardens
at Giverny
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