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CONTOUR

CONTOUR CONTENTS ----------------------------------------------------------EDITOR & CREATIVE DIRECTOR: Nicola Shepherd email: nicolashepherd@live.co.uk mobile: 07508349935
Beauty Update SKINCARE JUNKIE EAU DE YOU FEET TOGETHER, THIGHS APART SCIENCE BEHIND THE COSMETICS: PARABENS With thanks to Gina Anderson, Paul Carswell, Lucy Dartford, Jack Deeks, Kanya Gallagher, Katy Grace, Xena Gusthart, Sara Hassan, Lauran Hampshire-Dell, Kylie McMichael, Robert De Niet, Katherine Peever, Kat Sinclair and Mark Wells. THE BEES KNEES THE ABUSE OF ACCUTANE WHATS NEW? PIGMENTATION INKED HOLY GRAIL YOURE NEVER FULLY DRESSED WITHOUT SOME SLAP WAR PAINT PACKAGING HOARDERS
All rights reserved. Published by Nicola Shepherd. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without written permission from the publisher. The views expressed in CONTOUR are those of the respective contributors and are not nessecarily shared by the magazine or its staff. CONTOUR magazine is published in the UK and is a one off publication. Copywright 2013 CONTOUR Magazine.

Letter from the E d i t o r / #1


When it comes to beauty, theres not a lot out there for us cosmetic obsessed to sink our teeth into. Enter CONTOUR magazine. Here at CONTOUR were dedicated to giving you the best beauty content, starting from where every daily routine begins with skincare, right through to make-up and beyond. Not only will you find the latest news direct from the beauty world, well also discuss those grey, slightly taboo areas. Ever wondered why Accutane has such a bad reputation or why all of a sudden all your products have Paraben Free slapped across the packaging? Or maybe youre curious as to what is so appealing about the latest trend - thigh gaps (Im just as baffled), this first issue of CONTOUR covers it all. I hope you enjoy reading this magazine as much as Ive enjoyed making it and remember to send me your thoughts at @NickiShepShep

Nicola

Nicola Shepherd, Editor

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Beauty Update
--------------------------------Move over BB creams, youve been replaced with the latest base product to hit the market, the CC cream. Originality aside, these new colour correcting products promise to pack a punch, giving an instant short-term fix, whilst working to give us long-term results. Another Eastern product thats made its way to the UK and US markets, a CC cream is a complexion correcting balm that can be used like a primer. It reduces redness, protects you from sun damage and gives the appearance of a brighter complexion without caking up the skin. Thinner and almost weightless on application, CC creams should be used under foundation or tinted moisturisers, unless youre blessed with naturally airbrushed skin.

All the latest product launches and goings on in cosmetics.

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Make-up artists swear by it and now you no longer need to hot foot it all the way to France to get your hands on it, thats right Bioderma has landed in the UK. Five ranges from the Bioderma collection are available from leading pharamacies, dermatologists and online at Escentual.com. The ranges on offer are Atoderm for dry skin, Hydrabio for dehydrated skin, Sebium for oily skin and Sensibio for sensitive skin as well as Photoderm, their sun protection range.

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M.A.C cosmetics has collaborated with their fair share of musical divas from Lady Gaga and Nicki Minaj to Paramore front woman Hayley Williams, but theyve just announced their next partner will be none other than Caribbean queen Rihanna. There are four collections for RiRi Hearts M.A.C in total, due for release in May and will be sold exclusively online and at the merchandise stalls at Rihannas Diamonds world tour. While there are no previews as yet, we do know that Rihanna has taken iconic MAC lipstick Ruby Woo and given it a twist coining it RiRi Woo and it will feature in all four collections. Be prepared for an online battle, we predict an instant sell out. p

SKINCARE J U N K I E
As our largest organ, our skin is up against the elements everyday, so its nice to treat it well and indulge in a skincare routine but are we using too many products? Asks Nicola Shepherd.
I am a self-confessed skincare junkie; Im a sucker for the stuff. I not only enjoy using various products, but I love reading up on new releases and finding that one cleansing product that out cleans them all. My current routine boasts over ten products, including a cleanser, toner, moisturiser, exfoliator, as well as face masks (to name a few). Some might call me excessive, but Im not alone, in a survey of 100 people, 51% washed their face twice a day with either a cleanser or make-up removing wipes. The obsession with skincare started during my teenage years, as a sufferer of mild acne I tried everything and anything in the hope that it would rid my zits - even products so strong they bleached my bed sheets. Once I turned 16 and got my first job, I had disposable income to invest in skincare. It started small, with Liz Earles infamous Cleanse and Polish (that still reigns supreme in my routine) and before I knew it I had amassed a collection that took over my entire dresser. A good everyday skincare routine depends on the person and their skin type, but typically it would consist of a cleanser, toner and moisturiser, with an exfoliator or face mask used one to two times a week. Its really important to cleanse, tone and moisturize your face each evening to remove any make-up, grease and general dirt which clog the pores beneath the skins surface, says Louise Reed, beauty expert for Escentual.com. A cleanser is a posh term for a face wash, theyre great multitasking products that can remove the days dirt as well as acting as a make-up remover. Toner is a take it or leave it step, it ensures that your pores are thoroughly clean before moving onto moisturiser and is often more effective for people with an oily skin type. Moisturiser does what it says on the tin, it replenishes the skins moisture that was stripped away during the cleansing step and creates a smooth base ready for make-up application. Moisturiser was also the most popular product, with 85% using it in their daily routine. Exfoliators should be introduced into your regime at least once a week to sloth away dead skin cells and help keep your skin looking fresh and radiant. If youre likely to forget this step, using a muslin cloth during cleansing can also help brighten your complexion. Face masks arent just for sleepovers and no, you dont need to chuck cucumber slices over your eyelids either (although, you can if you like). Depending on your skin type, a mask can be really beneficial at rehydrating your skin, deeply cleaning pores and also help to reduce breakouts. Some might stop there but if youre slightly OCD like myself, you might then go in with a serum or facial oil. There are some however, who feel that skincare is a waste of time and that less is sometimes more. People tend to use things they dont need for their skin, they get sucked in by what the product claims it will do for their skin. Ive found that the less I use on my skin, the healthier it is, says student Moninuola Amusa. Out of 100 people, only eight said they only wash their face when they remember, whilst three admitted they never washed their face. The debate continues as to whether having good skin is down to the products we use everyday or if its just having great genes. Amelia can leave her skin q q

"I never wash my face more often than every three days and I leave my make-up on until it makes its own way off" - aMELIA

anything up to three days without washing, this includes leaving her make-up on until it makes its own way off, and claims to have exceptionally good skin. My skin is perfect, never spotty or flaky and people compliment me all the time, asking me how I do it. I cant say to them I never wash it more often than every three days and I leave my make-up on until it makes its own way off. Putting it down to good genes, Amelia never struggled with teenage acne so never felt the need to start a skincare routine. Skincare has been stereotypically marketed for women, but now it appears that the opposite sex are getting involved. Over the past two years, men have also begun embracing skincare and more and more brands have started to cater to this. Gone are the days when all a man wanted was deodorant, shaving gel and an aftershave balm, now men can pick up eye roll-ons infused with caffeine, moisturisers and even gradual tanner. Before this, men were using our products in the bathroom, which would have no effect on their skin at all. Men have larger pores and are oilier than women, meaning that these targeted products are all around better for their skin. Whilst some males are happy to indulge in skincare, others shy away thinking its too feminine. To alleviate this LOreal signed up celebrities such as Gerard Butler, Patrick Dempsey and Hugh Laurie to endorse their Men Expert range. Lets face it; the men in the adverts are far from effeminate. Whilst some are happy with good old soap and water, I wont be going cold turkey on my cleanser anytime soon. p

Skincare P i c k s

Possibly one of Origins best selling products, the Super Spot Remover is amazing at getting rid of those spots that pop up before a big meeting or event. Simply dab and the zit will be gone in a day or two. Miracle! Origins Super Spot Remover 13.00

The best everyday moisturiser for oily skin days. Effaclar Mat will mattify your skin, giving you a smooth canvas ready for your foundation or tinted moisturiser. La Roche Posay Effaclar Mat 12.75

With a gel like consistency, this night cream feels cool on the skin and instensly hydrates the skin overnight, keeping you looking fresh faced no matter how many hours you got in last night. It comes in both normal and oil-free making it suitable for all. Origins High Potency Night-A-Mins 33.00

You will always find a bottle of Liz Earle in my collection. A cleanser for all skintypes, or so the company claims, it helps keep my skin looking clear and bright, as well as removing every scrap of make-up along the way. Liz Earle Cleanse and Polish Starter Kit 14.75

Everyone has memories linked to different scents, from perfume and cologne to cigarette smoke and that new car smell, says Nicola Shepherd.
Fragrance has the power to teleport you back in time to past memories such as events, people, an object or even a moment in time. Whenever I catch a whiff of the chocolate aroma of Angel by Thierry Mugler, Im reminded of my mother, whod reserve the scent for special occasions. I can still recall my first bottle of perfume, Charlie Red, which was inspired by my older cousin who I idolised completely at the time. Whenever I would receive her hand-me-downs, theyd always smell faintly of Charlie Red and fabric softener. I saved up my pocket money and bought myself a bottle from Boots and would douse myself before school. It was the it scent of the time, all my friends would wear it and often carry a can of Charlie Red body spray to freshen up after PE and suffocate our gym teachers. Scents can recall memories and powerful responses almost instantaneously. You could be walking across the street and happen to pass someone or something thats aroma reminds you of a person or a specific date, and just like that youre transported in time. Our intrinsic sense of smell is linked to memories, and can trigger a moment or emotion, transporting you back to conjure a snapshot of that memory, says Celine Roux, Director of Product Development at Jo Malone. It all happens in the Limbic System, also known as the emotional part of our brains, which is an area associated with memory and feeling. Within the limbic system we have an olfactory bulb, a component that deals with sense of smell, which is linked to the amygdala, an almond shaped set of neurons that processes emotions. Together, these two parts of our brains process the scent and categorize it with memories, whether it is of a person, place or a thing. The majority of our scent memories are created during our childhood, from as early as being in our mothers tums, which is why we each dont have a preference for the same scents or find comfort in certain aromas. I think my dad used to smoke around me when I was younger, I find the smell kind of comforting now, says student Elle, 21.

The most famous fragrance in the world, Chanel No.5

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After asking several people on Facebook what scents they remember from their childhoods, the majority list perfumes their mothers would wear. Two even spoke about the same oriental scent, Obsession by Calvin Klein, whenever I smell it, I remember being five and painting with my mum, says one, whilst another describes the scent as a comfort. When I was little, if she went on a business trip, she would leave me one of her scarves that smelt of it, in case I missed her too much. Whilst the majority of memories that are recalled by scents, perfumes or colognes are pleasant, there are also those that are unavoidably bad. Armarni Code for Men reminds me of my first love. I cant go near a guy that wears that now without remembering the relationship, tells student, 24. Certain scents can also take you back to happy events, such as wedding days. Brides are meticulous when planning their perfect day, right down to the finer details of what they want to smell like. Most women stick with what they know, whilst others opt for something new and reserve its wear for special occasions like anniversaries. She doesnt wear it often, but when she does I can see her walking towards me down the aisle, its a surreal feeling, says Mark, 33, whose wife wore floral classic Chance by Chanel on their wedding day. If youre looking for something unique for your big day, Molecule 01 by Escentric Molecules (from 27) could be the one for you. Containing only one aroma-chemical, Iso E Super, it smells different on everyone and the perfumes creator, Geza Schoen, goes as far as saying that every man, women and child in a five mile radius will tell you, you smell good. Whether the memory is good or bad, there will always be a scent attached, some more potent than others. p

FEET TOGETHER, THIGHS APART.


Dubbed the cleavage of the Tumblr age, the thigh gap fad has impressionazble teens starving themselves for Delevingnes pins, explains Nicola Shepherd.
In December 2012, Victorias Secret exclusively aired their latest collection for the first time on British television. Since then, girls all over the country have been thinking about one thing, not bras nor pants, but thigh-gaps. The definition of a thigh-gap is the space between the thighs when the knees touch. For most of us, there is no space, but teenage girls have become obsessed, turning to the Internet to find out how they can achieve them. Hardly anyone has a thigh-gap without being underweight, or not yet fully adult, says Susan Ringwood, chief executive of Beat, an organisation set up to help those struggling with eating disorders. Girls have turned to Google in their quest for the gap, with the question how to get a thigh-gap? bringing up more than 5,650,000 results. Worryingly, some of the answers go as far as telling one to stop eating. In almost every case, this is an effect of photo shopping: it isnt real and it isnt achievable in healthy ways, says Ringwood. Before there was a name for it, the thigh-gap trend had been bubbling under the surface. There had been a growing popularity of women posting pictures of their bodies on the beach on social networks. While some of these images appeared to be harmless, there were a few who began to take it to the next level, including their protruding hipbones in the snapshots. For some, its about the competition, outdoing their friends and being top dog, but for others its another thing that leaves them feeling insecure. Melissa* (anorexia sufferer since the early age of 10), tells us Anorexia distorts my image, I feel like when I look in the mirror, I look fat. To me a thigh gap means Im not fat anymore. The thigh-gap has added to a long list of traits that teenage girls, and women feel they need to be, up there with jutting

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collarbones and protruding hipbones. Bones are beautiful. No matter what other people say, they just are. Like, so fragile and elegant and pretty and OMG I need to get skinny, tweets Melissa* who often vents her conflicting feelings on social networks, whose at a constant battle with her illness. One name that constantly pops up when discussing the topic of the thigh gap is Cara Delevingne. Her Burberry campaign and bushy brows shot herself into the limelight and now Delevingne has found herself with thousands of teenage fans who idolise her every move. Theyve even gone so far as creating a Twitter account in honour of her thigh-gap. @CarasThighGap has over 2,000 followers and its this behaviour that worries Melissa*. Shes a successful model who often features in teen magazines and young girls look up to her. Of course, Caras not solely to blame for this growing trend. Almost everyday societys version of perfection is thrust upon us, in the form of magazines, newspapers, television, store mannequins and even toys. From the age of four onwards, girls have played with their favourite Barbie, with her golden blonde hair, double D bust, tiny waist and even Barbie has a thigh-gap. The only difference now is that theyve put down Barbie, in favour of an airbrushed magazine or Googling for thinspiration. The photo blogging website Tumblr, comes up top when searching for thigh-gaps on the Internet and is home to a pro-anorexia culture of thinspiration, or thinspo as its known to those who play a part in it. Proanorexia sites and blogs can be particularly dangerous as they encourage people to believe that eating disorders are a life style choice and not the serious mental illness that they truly are, tells Ringwood. With health at risk, photo-sharing app Instagram has taken a step forward, banning popular tags such as thinspiration, as well as removing 30,000 photos, including one from Alexa Chungs profile after fans labeled her unhealthy and emaciated. Pinterest were next to buck the trend, banning users from posting imagery under the tag thinspo. Whilst these sites have eliminated certain tags, there are still around 300,000 easily accessible images using the tag eating disorder, not to mention the various Twitter and Facebook accounts dedicated to the gap boasting more than 700,000 followers. Ringwood thinks that social networking sites could be doing more. We believe sites should act responsibly. They have acted to remove other content that is seen as dangerous or could encourage young

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MIND THE GAP

people to do dangerous things. Although the chief executive is not completely opposed to social media, stating that whilst they can be dangerous, they could also be a powerful tool for supporting eating disorder sufferers, something Melissa* agrees with. [Social media] can also be for support, somewhere to vent emotions. I use the hashtags on Twitter so I can find and support people who are suffering. Its important to remember that not all women and teens lusting after the illusive gap have an eating disorder, but instead a serious case of knocked confidence. While thigh-gaps seem to be everywhere at the moment, women worrying about the size of their thighs is nothing new explains Dr Robert Murphy, president of the Society of Plastic Surgeons, to the Huffington Post. It has always been an area of concern, now its just getting reinvented under a new name. The compulsion teenage girls and women alike feel to be skinny is a tale as old as time, first heightened by the media and now the added cultural pressures of social media. With the trend becoming mainstream, women are turning to lunchtime lipo to emulate the look, with one Harley Street clinic claiming theyve seen a 240% rise in demand for their new fat freezing treatment. LoveLites most popular treatment Lipoglaze is a non-invasive procedure that targets stubborn areas of fat.

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"Anorexia distorts my image, I feel like when I look in the mirror, I look fat. To me a thigh gap means I'm not fat anymore". - Melissa*

It works by warming the patients problem area, encouraging blood and fat to separate, before freezing the fat cells and delivering results within the hour. Lipoglaze first became popular after the Olympics when women were lusting after Jessica Ennis abs but LoveLite said they have seen a surge in the number of women wanting treatment on their inner thighs. [Insert Quote Here] Others are taking a less drastic route, opting to put more time in at the gym, putting exercise instructors in high demand. Matt Townsend told the Daily Mail that although the body burns fat as a whole, we can do certain exercises that target our problem areas and that crash diets and starving ourselves wont do the trick. Girls think they need to starve themselves to get skinny, while I agree that both dieting and genetics play a role, much of the starvation aspects can be avoided with a clean diet and exercise. *For legal reasons we have changed Melissas name. If you or someone you know is suffering from an eating disorder, get in touch with the Beat team online (www.b-eat.co.uk) or over the phone on 0845 634 1414. p

SCIENCE BEHIND THE COSMETICS:


Parabens have been making a name for themselves in the media for the past year, with claims suggesting that these chemicals have been found in breast cancer tumors, but what exactly are they and should we really be avoiding them? asks Nicola Shepherd.
Slathering several products onto our bodies on a daily basis has become second nature to us, from body wash and deodorant to moisturiser and make up. Youd be forgiven then, for not checking the ingredients label on all of your everyday essentials. A particular chemical thats been talked about a lot in the beauty industry, for all the wrong reasons are parabens, a cheap synthetic preservative. Parabens have been used since the 1920s to preserve thousands of different foods, pharmaceuticals and cosmetics, which we are exposed to everyday. There are six different types of parabens used in cosmetics products, the three most commonly used being methylparaben, propylparaben and butylparaben. These chemicals are easily detectable on ingredients lists as they all end with their nickname paraben. Typically, products will contain more than one type of paraben as well as other chemical preservatives, to provide the product with a hefty 30-month shelf life and protect them from bacteria, yeast and mold growth. They caused alarm after scientists found that parabens, along with some other synthetic chemicals, are hormone disrupters, meaning they interfere with our natural hormones. These chemicals mimic oestrogen, a female hormone, which increases the normal amount our bodies produce. The rising levels increase the chances of breast cancer cells developing. In 2004, Dr. Phillipa Darbre carried out a study on 20 different breast cancer tumours, with 18 containing up to five of the parabens. Whilst Darbres study doesnt conclusively prove that parabens directly cause cancer, it does show that the hormone disrupters increase the oestrogen levels, a major contribution to the growth of breast cancer cells. Darbre also failed to mention in her study, the levels of parabens found in non-cancerous cells. The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) state that parabens are safe in products that contain levels of up to 25%, which they reassure is a rare occurrence, the standard being between 0.010.3%. Parabens are absorbed through the skin and with the amount of products that contain them they build up over time. Alarmingly, Johnson & Johnson, a favoured baby cosmetics brand also contained the cheap preservatives, meaning we have been exposed to these hormone-mimicking chemicals from our earliest days. The No More Tears brand came under fire recently for its use of formaldehyde, another chemical preservative also linked to cancer. Since then, Johnson & Johnson have pledged to clean up their products by 2015, but have made no further comment on the situation. Its not only Johnson & Johnson kicking up a fuss, but also brands that claim to use natural ingredients. Lush cosmetics have become increasingly popular over the past few years with their quirky marketing strategy and the colourful bath bombs that customers go mad for. Theyre known for being natural, against

P AR ABENS

----------------------------------------------------------REN Hydra-Calm Cleansing Gel 17.00 NUXE Huile Prodigieuse: Multi-Usage Oil 28.50 Caudalie Beauty Elixir 32.00 Jurlique Skin Balancing Facial Oil 35.00

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Korres Fig Body Butter 12.50

Trilogy Cream Cleanser 19.00

Shiffa Tamanu Moisturising Cream 70.00

animal testing and often hold protests outside their stores for various environmental cause, so some customers might be shocked to find that Lush, too, use parabens. The company whose slogan is fresh handmade cosmetics, has built an ingredients list on their website to fully inform and reassure customers of what they use and why. Lush clearly states online that although 71% of their products do not contain any preservatives, there are a few which do contain parabens to help give the product a lasting shelf life. Wanting to give customers as much transparency as possible, Lush also list the products that contain the controversial preservatives, which extends through their range of bottled and potted goods. Its not all doom and gloom however. Other cosmetics brands have been listening to customer worries, making changes to their products to make them friendlier to both our skin and health. While parabens are cheap and easy, wellknown brands including REN, Nuxe, Caudalie and even high street chains M&S and Superdrug, have all invested in using better quality preservatives. The easiest way to find out if a product you intend to buy contains the preservative is by looking at the products description, if theyre paraben free, its usually printed in big letters on the container. Thanks to the media backlash, parabens are widely known as chemical preservatives but what a lot of people do not know is that parabens also occur naturally in some vegetables, fruit, nuts and grains, blurring the lines even more. These plants produce parabens for the same reasons that they are used in cosmetics to ward off unwanted bacteria, yeast and mold growth. Depending on the plant, they create different variations of parabens. For example, root vegetables such as carrots or parsnips produce methylparaben for added protection, as they grow in moist soil, rife with bacteria. Other examples of fruit and veg that produce the preservatives are mango, cucumber and strawberries, all of which can be found in cosmetic products. This means that although some products may not directly contain parabens, they can still contain them in the fruit and vegetable extracts. This may cause alarm to those who are trying to steer

"Parabens are found in breast tumors and are eaten in common daily foods such as onions, carrots and strawberries."
clear from parabens altogether. The anti-paraben propagandists may not like this, comments Sue Visser, a health researcher. In an article written for Suite101.com, Visser doesnt dismiss rumours that parabens are found in breast cancer tumors, instead she welcomes them, claiming that 90% of the parabens that are present come from the food we eat, not cosmetics. Parabens that are found in breast tumors, are eaten in common daily foods such as onions, carrots, strawberries and other fresh produce. Before you all run out to your cupboards and rid them of those everyday mealtime essentials, Visser argues that parabens are there to protect us from bugs, whether or not they are naturally occurring or duplicated in the laboratory. Even if the chemical profiles of naturally occurring parabens are duplicated in a laboratory, they prevent contamination from yeast, molds, bacteria and other harmful microbes. The great paraben debate continues, hazier than ever, with many different arguments for and against the preserving chemicals. Dr. Darbres research in the Journal of Applied Toxicology states that 18 out of 20 breast cancer tumors examined contained traces of parabens, but the FDA still maintains that these synthetic preservatives are safe, so long as they dont exceed levels of 25%. Whilst its still not crystal clear just how dangerous these controversial preservatives are, we are able to control the amount of products we use that contain them, even if we cannot avoid fresh fruit and vegetables. With most cosmetic brands jumping onto the paraben-free bandwagon, it will be a lot easier to steer clear from them. p

THE BEE'S KNEES

When we think of honey, we think of it as Winnie the Poohs kryptonite or something sweet we add to foods such as tea, toast and porridge. Youd be forgiven then for not thinking to slather the sticky stuff onto an open wound, says Nicola Shepherd.
Often misinterpreted as threatening insects, Bees are helping us in more ways than one. The black and yellow fuzzy critter has been making headlines in the health and beauty world for its healing and anti-ageing benefits. Bees venom is the latest beauty craze to hit our skincare regimes, already known as a natural and cheaper alternative to Botox; its also been administered through injections for Rheumatoid Arthritis and Multiple Sclerosis. First introduced in 2011, bee venom was coined as natures alternative to the popular yet costly cosmetic surgery procedure Botox. Depending on the level of treatment needed and the clinic you visit, Botox can cost anything from 150-450, whilst skincare products containing purified bee venom ranges from 15-150. Luxury skincare brand Rodial has recently released its own bee venom collection, which includes a moisturiser, eye cream and serum. Used to cosmetically fool the skin, bee venom is a popular natural additive in anti-ageing products, on application it feels like youve been lightly stung, giving off a tingling sensation. The venom works within the epidermis and dermal levels of the skin, known to you and I as the first and second skin layers. The stinging sensation directs blood to the skins surface, stimulating collagen and elastin growth whilst also deeply nourishing skin, reducing the appearance of wrinkles and renewing damaged skin cells. It keeps skin firm and youthful and its not at all painful there is just a slight tingle as the blood supply and nutrients flow into the skin tissues, says Deborah Mitchell, owner and creator of Heaven Organic Skincare. Theres no need to

Image courtesy of The White Deer

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Rodial Bee Venom Range From 115

worry about the bees that are providing the venom as its collected humanely and causes no harm to the insects. By placing a pane of glass alongside a hive, experts emit a weak electrical current through it, encouraging the Bees to sting the surface. As the Bees stinger does not penetrate the glass like it would with human skin, it remains intact, keeping the insect alive. To produce just 1g of venom it takes around 10,000 bee stings, which is then purified and dried ready to add to products. Bees venom also contains nourishing proteins, peptides, amino acids and key enzymes, which helps maximise the skincare benefits. If youre suffering with problematic, acne prone skin, bees venom has been clinically proven to help the problem. The same antibiotic and antiinflammatory properties that are found in Manuka honey, are also found in the venom and when used on contact with breakouts, it can reduce the inflamed area as well as treat the acne. Whilst the natural ingredient boasts great benefits for the skin, its also used in medicines that are administered intravenously, such as those for Rheumatoid Arthritis, nerve pain and Multiple Sclerosis. Its arthritic benefits were first discovered by beekeepers, who noticed that after being stung many a time, their arthritis hadnt been causing as much discomfort. Bee venom contains more than 40 active ingredients that cannot be chemically produced, including Mellitin, an anti-inflammatory agent that, according to a scientific study, is one hundred times stronger than popular steroid Cortisone. The venoms medicinal benefits can also be used to treat allergies from hay fever to bee pollen, as well as building up the bodies immunity to insect sting allergies. Approximately 0.5% of the UKs population suffer from allergies relating to Bee stings, also known as anaphylactic shock, but new treatments using the very venom have proven effective at reversing the allergy. Doctors

begin treatment by injecting diluted venom in small quantities, into the blood stream, which is slowly built up over time to allow the patients body to build up immunity. Also known as a Radioallergosorbent Test, or RAST, each injection creates a blister on the skins surface, without the hypersensitive reaction and can help protect the patient from other insect stings including wasps or hornets. Bee venom is not the only by-product that holds health and beauty benefits. As they scour our gardens for new sources of nectar, they pollinate other plants and crops allowing them to bear fruit, whilst taking the nectar back to the hive creating honey. This sweet and sticky natural sweetener honey can also be used as an antibacterial remedy. Local honeys containing locally sourced pollens are known to reduce hay fever symptoms, whilst others are known as healing honeys, becoming a natural alternative to prescription drugs and lotions. Manuka honey in particular is highly sought after healing honey, as it contains two antibacterial properties, hydrogen peroxide and methylglyoxal. Also known as MG, methylglyoxal can increase manukas antibiotic effect with higher concentrations of the chemical. Manuka honey is produced in New Zealand, where the Bees pollinate the native Manuka shrub. The Manuka shrub is almost exclusive to the East Cape region of New Zealand, making the product a rarity and therefore expensive. This super food can be used to treat minor wounds and burns, skin complaints such as eczema and acne, as well as easing the symptoms of eye, ear and sinus infections. Not only is manuka honey a natural healing aid for cuts and scrapes, but it also has anti-inflammatory benefits. There are different grades of potency when it comes to manuka, which is determined by a Unique Manuka Factor or a UMF as it is otherwise known. To be considered potent enough for the therapeutic

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and healing qualities to work, the honey must have a minimum UMF rating of 10. Youd be able to determine this by looking for UMF Manuka Honey or Active Manuka Honey, which is usually printed largely on the products packaging. Theres a big difference when it comes to manuka honey and the honey you can pick up in the supermarket aisles. The most obvious differentiation is the colour; manuka has a deep amber tone to it, whilst regular sweetening honey has a golden shade. Regular honey found on supermarket shelves is has similar properties to high fructose corn syrup, which can increase infection, unlike manuka, which has natural antibacterial properties that aids healing. Depending on the UMF rating, manuka is often quite pricey, ranging from 15-45 and is available from health food shops including Holland and Barrett. There are many different methods of use depending on a persons particular complaint. The most natural method would be to swallow the liquid, which can help reduce the discomfort of a sore throat. The gloopy texture of the honey coats the throat giving fast relief, whilst the antibacterial properties work at fighting the infection. To help speed up the healing process of an injury, spreading Manuka to a piece of clean gauze before affixing to said wound could help. The honey helps to speed up healing time as on contact with the broken skin, manuka releases hydrogen peroxide, an antiseptic that prevents further infection. Lab experiments have shown that resistant superbugs like MRSA, can be treated using manuka as it helps the bug become more sensitive to antibiotics, allowing them to clear the infection more thoroughly. This indicates that existing antibiotics may be more effective against drug-resistant infections, if used in combination with manuka honey, says Professor Rose Cooper who worked on the

"It keeps skin firm and youthful and it's not at all painful" - Deborah mitchell

lab experiments. While manuka holds a whole host of health benefits, Royal Jelly, a thick milkywhite creamy liquid, is packed full of goodies to make our skin glow. Produced by nurse bees to feed the Queen Bee, Royal Jelly is full of essential amino and fatty acids, rich proteins and sugars which all benefit ageing skin. Much like bee venom, amino and fatty acids sit on the skins surface, filling in lines and wrinkles and is eventually absorbed into the skin, which promotes collagen production giving the appearance of firmer, younger looking skin. Royal Jelly is widely available on the high street and with Marks and Spencers recent Beauty department roll out, sees a new launch of royal jelly products priced between 3-20. Its clear from the evidence above that these fuzzy bugs are not only helping the environment through pollination, but theyre also aiding us to become healthier and happier too. They dont call them busy bees for nothing. p

Heaven by Deborah Mitchell Bee Venom Mask 73.00

---------------------------------------------------------Acne has become the bane of some peoples lives, lowering self-esteem with the psychological effects causing more distress than the actual pimples themselves. A common misconception with acne is that its linked with puberty and that youll grow out of it, when in fact acne affects around 80% of 11-30 year olds in the UK alone. Acne is a skin condition, which takes place when the sebaceous glad secretes oil, blocking the pores in our skin. Its an ongoing problem thats spanned generations from the character coined Crater Face in the 1978 movie musical Grease to being simulated in computer games whereby children can control whether their fictional characters apply zit cream or not. The most common type of acne occurs on the face, but it can also happen on the chest and back. A common stigma carried with the skin condition is that acne only comes in the form of big, red, boil-like cysts and that any other type of spot is just that, a spot. Whilst this is true in the case of cystic acne, considered the most painful and serious type of acne, other types of zits including the blackhead and whitehead are also caused by acne. The NHS advises patients to try over the counter topical solutions, which contain benzyl peroxide, before seeing your GP. If the acne refuses to disappear, your GP can offer several different types of treatment, including prescription creams and gels or antibiotics. If a patients case continues then they may be referred to a specialist dermatologist and in turn offered Isotretinoin, also known as Accutane or its newly repackaged name Roaccutane. Its this drug that has caused serious controversy over the years and continues today as it comes with a hefty list of side effects, which some people believe is no longer being communicated properly to patients. Approved by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) in 1982, Accutane was originally produced as both an acne and anti-cancer chemotherapy drug. The drug that comes in form of a gelatin capsule is a Retinoid, a

THE ABUSE OF ACCUTANE

There are over 500,000 courses of Roaccutane prescribed worldwide each year, a last resort miracle drug for long-term acne sufferers that comes with a lengthy list of hazardous side effects. Nicola Shepherd investigates.

relative of Vitamin A. They are used to treat cancers such as skin, lung and breast but also have great benefits to those dealing with severe acne. Roaccutane contains the Retinoid Isotretinoin, which works to clear up a patients acne by unblocking pores, killing bacteria and reducing inflammation. Dermatologists regard Roaccutane as a last resort drug and any patient that is prescribed it should have a lengthy discussion about the possible side effects. I really think that [Roaccutane] should be the very final end point of anybodies journey along acne, there are a lot of side effects, its not a treatment to be started lightly, explains Dr. Radha Modgil in the BBC Three documentary Dying for Clear Skin. Its true that the drug comes with a hazardous list of side effects, including hair loss, dry eyes, nosebleeds and depression. While some are lucky and get a few of the less severe side effects, others are finding they are getting inundated. Stefan Lay, 22, was prescribed a six-month course of the drug when he was just 15, and found himself with a whole host of side effects, including anxiety, aggression, dry eyes and even depression, before he decided to stop taking Roaccutane 5 months into treatment. Seven years on and Stefan still suffers with several side effects, some of which developed after he stopped taking Accutane. I was told side effects would go away after treatment, its just not true, explains Stefan. After a rocky experience with Roaccutane,

80%

of 18-30 year olds suffer from acne.

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"It's not an easy drug to take, but acne is not easy to live with." - Chelsey cross

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Stefan found his voice online, writing an eBook about the drug and joined a community of online video bloggers, or vloggers, on YouTube who constantly debate the pros and cons of the acne drug. In November 2012, Stefan made an appearance on BBC Threes documentary Dying for Clear Skin, where he discussed candidly about his experience and the side effects that came with it. Stefans main concern is that people are being prescribed the drug have minor acne, where the drug was intended for severe cases only. Id only had acne for a year before I was prescribed Accutane, so I hadnt had a chance to experiment with safer alternatives, explains Lay. The psychological effect of having acne can sometimes be worse than the spots themselves, causing sufferers to slip into a depression, which sometimes Roaccutane can worsen. I have some massive down days where I think I would be better off dead. When I was on the drug, I didnt have half the health problems that I do now says Lay. Sara Taylor, 36, was put on a high dose of Accutane to treat her severe acne and found herself on fighting an intense psychological battle everyday, one she felt unprepared for. It was a psychological battled and each day was hell. I felt so unwell, always sick with a cold, felt depressed. I was warned the acne might get worse, but not warned about the psychological impacts. After speaking to several Accutane patients, the majority told how they had to come off the prescription early, as they could no longer cope with the side effects. During the course I had the usual dry skin, lips and back ache. In the final month I began to get dry eyes so I stopped the course two weeks early, three years later my eyes havent improved, says George Radford, 19. Describing his acne, Radford says it wasnt severe, but bad enough that it was knocking his confidence and that Accutane should be prescribed more carefully. I think this drug should only be given to people with the most disfiguring, severe acne. I can see how it would be beneficial for that. If I was offered it now, I wouldnt go near the stuff as a quick Google search would sway anyone away from it. Radford was prescribed the anti-acne drug when he was 16, an age he thinks is much too young to start the drug as he wasnt aware of just what he was getting himself into. I signed something. At 16 I thought it was standard to sign for prescriptions, but now I know its just to save the doctor if you fall victim to this drug. Being prescribed the drug at 15, Lay also feels that an age cap could be a step forward at ensuring the right candidates take Roaccutane. I think you should be 18 or older to sign, because I was too young to understand the risks. Others, however, believe that Roaccutane shouldnt be capped at a certain age and instead should be available to those suffering from severe acne at any time. If it is a cure for acne then why wait? Why let someone go through that when they shouldnt have to?

Cassandra Bankson A.K.A DiamondsAndHeels14 on YouTube suffers from severe cystic acne but cannot use Roaccutane.

explains Chelsey Cross, 36. Cross had severe acne, especially around her forehead and t-zone area and was prescribed Roaccutane when she was 27. Although she was fully aware of the drug and its possible side effects, she hasnt looked back since taking the course of antibiotics. Its not an easy drug to take, but acne is not easy to live with, the hardest side effect would be how dry your skin gets, my lips would crack and I would have to apply lots of Vaseline constantly. Discussing the links between Accutane and depression, Cross argues that the depression could have begun before patients were prescribed the drug. Acne can be very depressing, and people worry about depression being a side effect of this drug, but I think its difficult to tell because by the time someone is taking Roaccutane, they have come to the end of their tether with acne. When you type the word Accutane into a search engine, it brings up over 20 million results and 17 million of those are YouTube videos, the majority being video diaries documenting patients time on the acne-fighting drug. Entering the search term acne brings up more than 114 million results; 111 million of those are again YouTube videos. YouTube has become a community where people can communicate and help one another through particular issues. One of the top videos under the acne search results comes from 20-year-old American Cassandra Bankson, who goes by the username DiamondsAndHeels14. In 2010 she posted a video showing girls how she covers up her acne, which has since received almost 18 million views. It opens up with Cassandra introducing the video; she has a full face of make q q

"There are a lot of side effects, it's not a drug to be started lightly." - Dr. Radha Modgil

up on and comes across to views as a very bubbly and outgoing character, once it cuts to a clip of her at the beginning of her make-up tutorial, the bubbly girl we first saw retreats back into a shell. Taking off my make-up is one of the most insecure things that I could do, Bankson explains to her viewers. In the comments of the video a lot of her subscribers ask her why she hasnt tried Accutane to which she responded with an indepth video on why she couldnt take the drug due to her health. I talked to my doctor about it and the problem is that I have premature rheumatoid arthritis in my knees and due to that I do not have enough fluid and cannot take Accutane, because it will dry up all of my sebaceous glands. Of course, not every patient whos prescribed Roaccutane suffers from the rare side effects such as anxiety or depression; in fact its only 1 in 10,000 cases that will see these adverse effects. Laura Jackson, 22, was prescribed a course of Roaccutane after trying several other options to no avail. After trying numerous creams and other tablets like Minocin and Lymecycline and having no luck, I finally decided to try Roaccutane, says Jackson, who goes on to discuss her side effects. The first week on Roaccutane made my face feel like it had been punched and burnt, was so red and sore to touch. Throughout the whole six months I experienced nose bleeds, dry lips, face and body and anxiety like you wouldnt believe. Despite suffering with these side effects, Laura felt the end results made them completely worth it. My skin is spotless and even has a glow. I dont have to wash my hair everyday and my face has not one spot of oiliness. Chelsey Cross also sings Accutanes praises, explaining that if shed found it earlier she might not have such severe scarring. I am still self-conscious as I have significant scarring and that has become my new battle. If I had found Roaccutane earlier, I would not have the amount of scarring that I do. Believing that the antiacne drug is just like any other form of medication, Cross says that she would allow her children to take it if they needed it, if it meant them not suffering for as long as she did. As long as they are being monitored, I dont see it as wrong. I believe Roaccutane should be the next step, even for teenagers and if my child needed it as a teenager, I would let them have it. The subject of Roaccutane has become tricky, with a lot of people for and against the drug. What has become clear is that in the past 10 or so years the acne drug hasnt been given the attention it needs, leaving patients feeling ill informed and worse off than before they swallowed the dose. Wondering whether they should take a chance on Roaccutane has become the bane of peoples lives, rather than the spots themselves. p *For more information on Roaccutane and other acne treatments, please visit the NHS website (www.nhs.uk)

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I N K E D
Treated like royalty in the beauty industry and boasting an impressive clientele, Tracie Giles discusses her 20 year-long career in permanent make-up and how its not always about scouse brows.
Tucked away in the heart of Knightsbridge, down Beauchamp Place sits Tracie Giles permanent make-up clinic. Immersed in a parade of shops, the secluded road holds the perfect space for a favoured celebrity clinic. Upon entering the narrow stairway towards reception, youre greeted with images of celebrities whove used the clinic; the majority being reality stars, such as Jessica Wright and Lucy Mecklenburg of The Only Way is Essex fame. The clinic has also seen some unlikely faces too, including members of the House of Lords. The reception leading into the clinic looks like a Victorian Boudoir, featuring cream with silver accents, a loveseat for clients to wait on and a gigantic mirror on one wall to create the illusion of space. We are looking for bigger premises, much bigger, were far too small, says Tracie, whos sitting in the caf next door to her clinic, stirring some sweetener into a skinny decaf cappuccino. As the first high street clinic in the UK, business is booming for Giles and her permanent make-up clinic, over coffee she reminisces about where it all started for her. My parents had their own hair and beauty clinics and Ive never really done anything else, except I wanted to do medicine. After going back as a mature student and completing her A Levels, Giles decided against continuing for a further seven years and returned to beauty, around the same time that permanent make-up began making advancements. German engineers started to take notice of what the Americans were doing and did it 100 times better. Little did she know that her career would lead to her working alongside plastic surgeons and her services being recommended by doctors. Tracie goes on to discuss the rise of the cosmedic scene at a time where doctors considered committing you for asking for Botox. Doctors refused Botox and would write you a prescription for anti-depressants. This is very much your generation, youve been brought up with it so its normal, it was different for us. As Botox and fillers became more accepted as part of the cosmedic scene and society, permanent make-up began making a name for itself, thanks to Giles whose now been in the business for over 20 years. All I did was popularise it by

making it more accessible and weve had so much press that weve made it really well known. The walls of the clinics reception boast the press clippings to prove this. While the Tracie Giles clinic offer a range of procedures from beauty spots, eyeliner and eyelash enhancers to Tracies unique Gloss & Go treatment, its the eyebrows that bring in the most trade. About 83% of our work that comes through the doors is eyebrows. The most common eyebrow shape girls ask for is Megan Fox. Although the name suggests that youre going to be branded for life with permanent eyebrows, eyeliner or lips, its far from the truth. Permanent makeup or micropigmentation is mineral makeup, put into the upper reticular dermis, which is the second layer just under the epidermis. Weve got to feel how far we are into the skin, Giles says, pushing the skin on her face slightly as if shes conducting a procedure on herself. When you are being tattooed, the artist will penetrate the skin much further than the dermis, sometimes making contact with muscles. Another stigma attached to permanent make-up is the pain factor that comes with it, something that Tracie says not to worry about. There is always going to be some discomfort and anybody who says there q q

"It's been talked about leaving cameras up on each of the walls and then leaving them for a month."
is none is wrong, but its not as bad as tweezing or threading your eyebrows. Its nothing even to worry about. Sitting awaiting her appointment, a client is taken into a room for a procedure with one of the highly trained technicians, who wears a lilac tunic with Tracie Giles, embroidered on it. Tracie prides herself on having the very best technicians for her clients, even if that means looking overseas and currently only has seven girls on her team. I only recruit from Germany, Russia, Poland or other European countries because their training goes on for years. UK technicians are given five days training to tattoo your face, which doesnt come out very easily once its in, its in. This type of make up can last in the skin anywhere between one to three years and Tracie explains that sometimes indefinitely there will be a faint trace of colour to the skin therefore its important her technicians know their craft. Asking Giles if shes had any of her own procedures done herself, she laughs and answers simply, everything, although it is barely noticeable. Its not makeup to make you look like a celebrity, its make-up to make you look the best you can possibly look. She goes on to explain how the technicians create realistic, natural looking eyebrows without emulating the scouse brow look. We have to look at the skin undertones to see whether the client is cool or warm toned. Well come to an arrangement and generally speaking if shes a blonde we will go two shades darker and if shes a dark brunette well go two shades lighter. Its not all glitz and glam behind the Tracie Giles clinic doors, whilst the majority of Tracies clientele comes from women looking to enhance their looks, there are some cases of permanent make-up being used for medical issues from scar camouflage, breast re-pigmentation to eyebrows for cancer patients. We have lots of girls that have been diagnosed with cancer come into the clinic and we make their eyebrows look really realistic behind their real eyebrows, so when their hair falls its not noticeable. Flicking through the photo gallery on her iPad, Tracie shows work shes done for people who suffer with alopecia, giving them a confidence boost, just by giving them their eyebrows back. One of the most important things that clients have said to me after their treatment was how they felt during the consultation. I allowed them to regain control over something they had no control of before. One of Tracies pet beauty peeves are people who take out their eyebrows completely and its not hard to see why when you see the work shes done for alopecia and cancer sufferers. I would have to say people who take their eyebrows out completely, oh my God that really, really upsets me. Another procedure Tracie offers is gender reassignment for those who have had implants during transgender transitioning and wishes to emulate a fuller nipple. The nipples on a man are much smaller so when they get implants they look too small. Discussing make-up on the high street, Tracie explains that permanent make-up may never replace the high street, although in the long run it could be cheaper. If youre going to be putting eyebrow pencil and god knows what else on all the time, buying decent pencils for 20 it doesnt take long to make 500. Prices at the Tracie Giles clinic start at 150 for a beauty spot and range up to 1200 depending on the procedure and technician you choose. Giles argues that its a one of expense every one to two years, unlike Botox or fillers, which is every three months. You have to keep doing [Botox] every q q

83%

of work that comes through the doors is eyebrows


four months a that full cost each time, maybe up to 700 if youre lucky, but with this its once a year to once every two years. Once its done, its in for ages. The Tracie Giles clinic offer an affordable service, whereas overseas in countries such as China it can cost up to 1800 per area. Tracies diary is always busy, running here and there for various different appointments as well as keeping up with her large roster of clients. Tracie and her clinic have now appeared on several prime time reality series, including Embarrassing Bodies and The Only Way is Essex, and its her relationship with said reality stars that sometimes attracts what Giles has coined tourist trade. You get what I call my tourist trade, which are the girls who want to be like Jess or Lucy. They sometimes come up for a consultation just to see if one of them is going to walk in. With all the work that shes done for various reality shows, it looks like the Tracie Giles clinic might be getting their own fly on the wall reality series. Its been talked about leaving cameras up on each of the walls and then leaving them for a month and then they take the footage and put together a reality series from it. It would be interesting because weve got such a diverse clientele, from celebrities to Arab princesses and then you get ordinary people in too. After 20 years in the business, Tracie shows no signs of slowing down with the possibility of a reality series and a new clinic in much bigger premises. Watch this space ladies. To make a consultation with the Tracie Giles clinic, call 020 7584 1005 or send an email to info@traciegiles.co.uk. p

Can you name the five products above? Its a rarity when a product hits cult status, they have to be instantly recognisable, bestselling and above all, work. But how did these products become Holy Grail?

HOLY GRAIL

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CHANEL N 5
O
Chanel No5 Eau De Parfum from 47.50

Arguably one of the most luxurious brands with its elegant and sleek packaging, Chanel hits the nail on the head when it comes to cult products. The most famous and instantly recognisable womans perfume is Chanel No.5 and has been top dog since 1921. Coco Chanel took a step away from fashion, looking to create a scent that reflected her personality. She was then introduced to Russian perfumer Earnest Beaux who took on her challenge and No.5 was born. Beaux presented Coco with 10 different scents before she settled on the fifth, giving the perfume its iconic name known by millions worldwide. Described as a bouquet of abstract flowers with an indefinable femininity, No.5 contains notes of Sandalwood, Ylang-Ylang, Jasmine and Aldehydes. A truly innovative perfume from conception, it was the first to contain Aldehydes, an organic compound present in natural materials, such as roses, that are reproduced in a lab to give fragrance sparkle. No.5 features a combination of aldehydes (C10, C11 and C12 to be exact) which helps give the fragrance a mixture of citrus, floral and soapy notes. Encased in a square, transparent glass bottle that has barely changed in its 92 years, topped of with a diamond shaped stopper, sealed in wax with the double C emblem. For me, No.5 is not a perfume, its a cultural object, says Jean-Louis Froment, Curator of the No.5 Culture Chanel art exhibition, which explores the fragrances history. At the time, the perfume was new and exciting and women everywhere craved it. That moment consumers were smelling something they had never smelled before, it was an intervention in the history of perfume, tells Tilar Mazzeo, author of The Secret of Chanel No.5. Coco Chanel said that women should wear No.5 everywhere she desired to be kissed. In 1952, Marilyn Monroe famously told in an interview with LIFE magazine that she wore a few drops of Chanel No.5 to bed. As their most infamous fan, Chanel released the second instalment of their Inside Chanel series in November 2012, titled Marilyn and No.5, which features neverbefore-heard audio clips and unreleased images. Throughout the years, their love affair with beautiful women continued, featuring the likes of Catherine Denueve, Carole Bouquet, Nicole Kidman and Audrey Tautot all fronting advertising campaigns over the years. Its ability to adapt and reincarnate over the years without ever smelling outdated or looking old upon womens q dressers has insured No.5s success. q

" The story goes that the product got its name after a mother applied it to her son's scraped knee and it appeared much better 8-hours on."
Whether youve got chapped lips, a bruise that just wont heal or fancy adding a touch of shine to your everyday makeup look, theres only one product a beauty editor (or your mother) would recommend; Elizabeth Arden 8-Hour Cream. Also known to some as the Miracle Cream, it has been around since 1930 and was Ardens first cosmetic product. The story goes that the product got its name after a mother applied it to her sons scraped knee and it appeared much better 8 hours on. The apricot coloured super balm contains a combination of petroleum, soothing beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) and Vitamin E. At a time where new ingredients were being introduced into cosmetics and fragrances, Elizabeth Arden was one of the first to include beta-hydroxy acid into a product. A BHA is a lipid (oil) soluble agent, which is able to penetrate the pore and exfoliate the dead skin cells. In this particular case, the BHA in the miracle cream is salicylic acid. Now, some of you will instantly think spots when those words are said but it actually helps to smooth skin, which in turn alleviates breakouts and promotes healthier looking skin. While its known for its compatibility with oily skin, BHAs are also used in wide range of moisturising products for their smoothing properties. The basic premise behind Ardens 8-Hour cream is a skin protectant, but while it is great for minor ailments including bruising and chapped skin, many women have since found other cosmetic uses. As a makeup artist, I love to use this on the runway. The eyelids, cheekbones the lips as a gloss. Its great as a brow fixative to keep the brows in place, explain Elizabeth Arden makeup artist Rebecca Restrepo. The multi-tasking product is also a great travelling companion, making long haul flights and raw sunburn a lot easier with its moisturising and soothing benefits. Makeup artists such as Lisa Eldridge and the Chapman sisters swear by it. For the past 80 years, the 8-Hour Cream has come with a love it or hate it scent. A mixture of a herbal and perfume, the scent is not universally appealing and after a lot of customer requests, Elizabeth Arden have recently released a fragrance free version of the super balm.

Elizabeth Arden 8-Hour Cream

Elizabeth Arden 8-Hour

Cream 25.00

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YSL TOUCHE ECLAT

With one sold every 10 seconds; the Yves Saint Laurent Touche clat has made a name for itself in the beauty world since its launch in 1991. 22 years on it still remains one of todays bestselling products and is known as the magic wand by the customers who adore it. Created by Saint Laurents right hand makeup artist of 16 years, Terry De Gunzburg, she claimed that no one had skincare in a click pen. A highlighting product that is often mistaken as an undereye concealer, the Touche clat pen adds a touch of light to make-up, creating a radiant, awake look for even insomnia sufferers. Introduced at a time when thick chalky foundations and concealers were all the beauty market had to offer, Touche clat paved the way for future illuminating products and gave birth to the dewy complexion. So long sallow skin. Gunzburg made ease of use her priority when she invented the Touche clat as shes an on the go woman herself. I wanted a product that I could use in the car, with one hand! She told the Evening Standard. While it became an instant phenomenon world wide, Terry had to fight to get her magic pen made. The company were confused as to what it was that the makeup artist was pitching. Its not a concealer, its not a foundation, you put it on over powder, what is it? she recalls them asking. After being promoted to International Marketing Director, Gunzburg took it upon herself to get the ball rolling, taking samples round to beauty journalists and wooing them with a click of a button. Since then, its become one of beautys best selling and most iconic products and has won countless awards. Encased in gold, click pen (as coined by the inventor herself) packaging, the Touche clat is instantly recognisable in an ocean of wannabe dupes. Brands have fallen over themselves, trying to create something as good as YSLs magic wand but none can compare. The 2013 collectors edition Touche clat is now available from all available stockists.

"It's not a concealer, it's not a foundation, you put it on over powder, what is it?" - Terry de gunzburg

YSL Touche clat 25.00

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LIZ EARLE CLEANSE AND POLISH


The most modern product to make the cut is Liz Earles Cleanse and Polish Hot Cloth Cleanser, which since its release in 1995 has amassed over 80 awards and accolades from the industries finest. Eighteen years later, Cleanse and Polish is still the only cleanser that Liz Earle make and sell, as the formula suits every skin type. With a history specialising in botanical ingredients, Liz Earle joined forces with long time friend Kat Buckland, who together created a range of products infused with naturally active ingredients as well as giving women expert tips and advice on beauty issues. They created a simple and affordable three-step skincare routine to suit all skin types, which included the Cleanse and Polish as well as a toner and moisturiser. The starting point for us was very much to create simple, very effective skincare products that deliver great results, whatever your skin type, age, stage of life or skin condition, says co-founder and spokesperson Liz Earle. All products contain naturally active ingredients and its the differing ingredients in the Cleanse and Polish that make it suitable for all. It contains over 8 different naturally active ingredients including, beeswax to protect and relieve chapped skin, cocoa butter for its moisturising benefits and chamomile essential oils to sooth the skin. Suggested in the name, Cleanse and Polish is a two-phase routine. The first phase is to cleanse to face using the rich and creamy product followed by phase two, which is polishing the cleanser off using a muslin cloth that also provides light exfoliation. A lot of the inspiration for the brand comes from its home in Isle of Wight, where Liz Earle HQ is based. The Isle of Wight is an area of outstanding natural beauty, which is a wonderful fit for a British beauty company, says Liz Earle. The island inspires all of the colours, including the brands staple duck egg blue. Since their launch in 1995, Liz Earle stayed loyal to skincare, expanding their range to include facemasks, exfoliators, eye creams and oils. In 2001 they opened the duo opened their first store in Ryde, Isle of Wight before opening a further three in London, Leeds and Guildford. The success of their skincare range lead them to develop and launch their hotly anticipated makeup line Liz Earle Colour, in 2011 followed by a haircare regime. The hair range follows the one size fits all mantra of the Cleanse and Polish in that theres one shampoo to suit all hair types. The company have just launched their latest addition to the hair care line, a beautiful hair oil infused with coconut oil, Kenyan Yangu oil and radish seed oil. While they are still busy creating new products for both the hair and makeup lines, they still stand by their one cleanser, Cleanse and Polish. p

Liz Earle Cleanse and Polish Starter Kit 14.75

YOU'RE NEVER FULLY DRESSED WITHOUT SOME S L A P


Its a girls prerogative to spend a little more time getting ready in the morning, but some are taking it to extremes, going as far as having it tattooed onto their faces, says Nicola Shepherd.
Its Saturday night, the outfits picked out and youve spent the week planning the perfect smoky eye to match the dress. Its no surprise then that women spend over 470 days of their lives applying cosmetics. On average, women can spend anything from 15-30 minutes a day applying make-up, claiming that their eye make-up routine takes the longest. There can be up to 12 different steps to a womans cosmetic routine including foundation, concealer, blush, eyebrows, eyeshadow and lipstick. Some, however, are finding new means and extremes when it comes to their beauty routines. Weve all been there after one too many drinks, the thought of rolling out of the taxi and straight into bed always trumps removing make-up. For some, removing the remainders of the night is more of a chore than a vanity crisis. I always take off my make-up at night, but I dread the thought of going through the removal routine, says Harriet Scoffin, 21. If Im on my way home and just want to crawl into bed, the thought of having to take off my make-up first makes me want to cry! It sounds extreme, but its one of my pet hates, although its a necessity, she explains. When women first start seeing a new partner, a survey, conducted by permanent make-up artist, Debra Robson, found that 80% of them feel the pressure to always appear perfect, not allowing their other halves to see them without makeup within the first month of their relationship. The same survey found that a third of women admitted to waking up to

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Ilustration courtesy of Katherine Peever.

Dior Bird of Paradise Summer 201

3 Collection

60%

of women confess that they sleep in their make-up whilst with a new boyfriend

Hayley Williams for M.A.C Cosmetics

secretly apply their slap before their beau stirs, while a further 60% confess that they sleep in their make-up whilst with a new boyfriend. I wouldnt take off what Ive already got on, but I wouldnt get up early to redo it, explains Rachael Woodard, 21. Of course, the occasional one off will not do too much damage to your skin, but regularly snoozing in a full face could lead to an increase in breakouts, which defeats the object entirely. Surprisingly, only a third of women enjoy preening themselves, whilst others would rather get up and go with 27% opting to go make-up free at work. There are now alternative ways to looking fresh and polished first thing in the morning, that do not require spending 20 meticulous minutes in front of the mirror (a lazy girls dream). Permanent make-up has been around for over 30 years and is commonly misunderstood for tattooing. It works by implanting mineral make-up pigments into the skin, creating the effect of filled in eyebrows, eyeliner or lips for up to two years. Top dog of permanent make-up in the UK is Tracie Giles, whose been working in the industry for more than 20 years and opened up the first high street clinic in 2011 and says that women come to her to make the best of themselves. Its not make-up to make you look like reality stars, its make up to make you look the best you can possibly look. Permanent make-up requires minimal effort in the mornings, depending on the treatments undertaken. Tracie has developed a new technique for lips called Gloss and Go, which involves shaping the mouth and placing colour through them. Its not like lipstick, its a powdery colour through the lip, so although lips have got a brilliant shape, all shes got to do is put a gloss over the top, explains Giles. Whether its permanent or temporary, what it really boils down to is that not all women feel confident without wearing some form of make-up, with two percent of women going as far as believing that going barefaced would leave them undesirable to their other halves. Whilst men dont find caked up faces attractive, they do find that women who wear make-up are more attractive, most likely because they appear more confident. Theres nothing more sexy than a confident woman, and make-up even if its just a bit of mascara or cover up can make a women feel so much more empowered, says Escentual.com beauty expert Emma Leslie. Make-up has the power to dress up any outfit and put a smile on our face, but perhaps its time to pick up a makeup wipe, before leaving an imprint on your pillow. p

WAR PAINT
Photography by Nicola Shepherd Body Art by Kat Sinclair

PACKAGING HOARDERS
Weve taken to treating cosmetic packaging like a new toy, giving it pride of place on our dressing tables or letting it clutter up our drawers, says Nicola Shepherd.
When it comes to the world of cosmetics, packaging can be a big selling point. Some brands, like Benefit and Chanel, are known for their kitsch or sleek looking products, while others rely on the products inside to do the selling. Lately, a products packaging has become more of an added extra, rather than something that will just get binned once the customer gets it home. In particular, luxury beauty packaging has become collectable with a new survey showing that 61% of consumers choose to give it a home on their dressers, over chucking it out in the cold. A products packaging is typically the outer shell that the goods is placed or wrapped inside to keep it safe, but it can also be the products presentation. Over the years, the design and shape of the packaging has become one of brands key marketing objectives YSLs infamous Touche Eclat is known worldwide by its gold click pen packaging. Its the outer shell that has consumers going weak at the knees, so much so that some people have taken to keeping it, for reasons such as to keep the product clean, use it as storage for something else or simply because it is pretty to look at. Sarah Thorne is a graphic designer who specialises in creating covetable packaging. I try to design boxes which feel nice or have a pleasing q q

function, shape and decoration. Her client list is impressive; creating Fashion Week invites for Mulberry, a pop up invite for a Vogue event and designing the packaging for Topshop make-up several seasons running. Talking about creating packaging, Thorne discusses what clients look for. Shelf-standout is usually the key objective, then for the packaging to embody the brand, to pull people into it, be beautiful covetable whilst also being cost effective and functional. Thorne is extremely passionate about her craft, often going above and beyond the norm to create something particularly pleasing to the eye. It seems like there is a lot of scope to be inventive with packaging, in some ways its almost like sculpture. You can build on or around the product, which is really exciting, she explains. A self-confessed packaging hoarder herself, Thorne explains how packaging has the power to sell itself, no matter the product contained inside. If I love the box, Ill buy the product, even if its not my colour or not something Ill use. I found a dowdy miso soup box which had a clever closure and I used it for an eyeliner box. Its not only Thorne who thinks this, in a recent survey 74% admitted that a products packaging can sway their decision to splash the cash. Beauty blogger Amanda McGown admits that shes guilty of this. If I went into a shop and saw something that looked beautiful or had lovely packaging, Id be more drawn to it. What really happens to the packaging customers hoard? In a survey about packaging, some admitted that it just gets thrown in a drawer or wardrobe until they next have a clear out and throw it out, whilst others are taking it to a new level by using it as storage. It all has a very make do and mend attitude about it, people are using every part of the product theyve bought, just like women used to find a use out of every ration. Its not only the packaging that gets a new life, but sometimes the bag the cashier pops it into also

"If i love the box, I'll buy the product, even if it's not my colour or something I'll use." - Sarah Thorne

q q

gets a second chance. A few years ago carrying your P.E. kit to and from school in a Jane Norman or Jack Wills paper bag was seen as fashionable, but now its the turn of the monochrome Chanel bag, sitting on shelves or dressers. Is it just a status symbol or do us beauty addicts just need to let go? Others can discard the packaging without a second thought. When you hoard boxes, youre essentially just storing air what a waste of space! says Gina Anderson. When you spend a lot of money on products you want to get your moneys worth, but if you store your makeup properly anyway it doesnt get ruined explains Anderson. Working with packaging, Thorne says that customers throwing packaging away is inevitable but that brands are beginning to see the potential value of packaging. If it [packaging] sits in someones home on their dressing table for example, a really precious connection has been made. It used to be hard to justify the added cost and waste of boxes, clients would say, it just gets binned, but now it seems much more accepted that packaging has a role other than simply protecting the product inside. Customers who enjoy the products packaging notice the difference between a brand thats invested and one that

hasnt. Presentation of products is what makes me think that the brand cares about you, says Amanda McGown. Interestingly, McGown claims to willingly ditch the packaging, or lack of that comes with high street products because its not very pretty. Gone are the days when packaging was a precautionary measure. Whilst packagings primary function is to protect, its now become a competition between brands to be the most inventive and theres even an annual award ceremony dedicated to celebrating design innovation. The Packaging for Perfumes, Cosmetics and Design (PCD) is held in Paris during February and is a place where companies exhibit their most innovative designs to date, as well as get awarded for the best and most innovative designs. This years winners included Diors limited edition perfume Jadore Labsolu and Lancomes Genifique Yeux LightPearl. PCD is a technological platform that brings together the leading suppliers, who come with their innovations, said Herv Bouix from Estee Lauder Companies Inc in a testimonial. Perhaps its just a generational fad, but right now it seems like packaging is just as important as the product it conceals. p

S a r a h Th or n e f or Topsh op S S 11 M a k e -Up

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Sarah T h o r n e f o r Mul b er r y S S 1 2

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Parsley Seed Anti-Oxidant Facial Hydrator; AESOP 43.00

Clinique set off quite the trend with their original Chubby Sticks for lips, but now theyve done it again but this time to sweep over your lids. The new collection features 12 summer ready colours that give you a sheer wash of colour that promises not to Buy Me

Chubby Stick Shadow Tint; Clinique 16.00

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Spray Wax; Sacha Juan 17.00

The limited edition fragrance from the STELLA collection back for the season, a mixture of fruity and floral notes with a sensual twist. If youre looking for a new summer fragrance, this could be the one for

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