Mathematicalmode00lem BW

AIR 7f W^
MR
77-10
Mathematical Modeling of
Shoreline Evolution
by
Bernard Le Mehaute and Mills Soldate
MISCELLANEOUS REPORT NO. 77-10 OCTOBER 1977
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MATHEMATICAL MODELING OF SHORELINE EVOLUTION

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Miscellaneous Report
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Report No. TC-851 CONTRACT OR GRANT NUMBERCo)
Bernard Le Mehaute Mills Soldate

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DACW72-7T-C-0002
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Inc. Tetra Tech, 630 North Rosemead Boulevard Pasadena, California 91107
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October 1977
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SUPPLEMENTARY NOTES
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KEY WORDS
(Conlii
3ary and Identity by block
Beach slope Coastal engineering Mathematical modeling

ABSTRACT
(Continue an reverie side
If
Shoreline evolution Waves
neceaaary and Identity by block number)
literature survey on mathematical modeling of shoreline evolution is presented. The emphasis is on long-term evolution rather The one-line than seasonal or evolution taking place during a storm. theory of Pelnard-Considere (1956) is developed along with a number of applications. Refinements to the theory are introduced by considering changes of beach slope, wave diffraction effects, wave variation, and variation of sea level. The case of hooked bays is also reviewed. fcontinuedl
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It is concluded that a finite-difference mathematical scheme could be For the large developed for engineering purposes for a small wave angle. wave angle, shoreline instability does not permit use of a reliable mathematical model at this time.
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PREFACE
This report is published to provide coastal engineers with a literature survey on mathematical modeling of shoreline evolution, which it is hoped will lead the way in establishing a flexible and practical numerical method suitable for predicting shoreline evolution resulting from the The work was carried out construction of navigation and shore structures. under the coastal structures program of the Coastal Engineering Research Center (CERC)
The report was prepared by Bernard Le Mehaute, senior vice president, and Mills Soldate, Tetra Tech, Inc. Pasadena, California, under CERC Contract No. DACW72-7T-C-0002. Funds for the preparation of this literature review part of the contract were provided by theÛ.'S. Army Engineer Division, North Central, Chicago, Illinois.
,
Mr.
The authors acknowledge the assistance of Dr. J.R. Weggel CERC, and C. Johnson, U.S. Army Engineer District, Chicago, in providing a list of papers on the subject matter, along with pertinent comments relevant to the situation in the Great Lakes.
,
Dr. Weggel was the CERC contract monitor for the report, under the general supervision of G.M. Watts, Chief, Engineering Development Division.
Comments on this publication are invited.
Approved for publication in accordance with Public Law 166, 79th Congress, approved 31 July 1945, as supplemented by Public Law 172, 88th Congress, approved 7 November 1963.
^^-K<<V<<
TOHN H. COUSINS
Colonel, Corps of Engineers Commander and Director
CONTENTS
CONVERSION FACTORS, U.S. CUSTOMARY TO METRIC (SI)

SYMBOLS AND DEFINITIONS
I
6
7
INTRODUCTION
THE FIRST MODEL (PELNARD-CONSIDERE) 1. Refinement and Extensions of the Pelnard-Considere Model 2. Example of Shoreline Evolution THE TWO-LINE THEORY OF BAKKER THE EFFECT OF WAVE DIFFRACTION
11
II
13 22 30 31
III
IV
39
V
VI
SPIRAL BEACHES
42
PROTOTYPE APPLICATIONS
44
VII
CONCLUSIONS
LITERATURE CITED
TABLES
49
54
u versus
(u)
17
Summary of mathematical models for shoreline evolution

FIGURES
50
Beach depth definition
14
Successive beach profiles updrift of a long groin before bypassing
14
Successive beach profiles updrift of a groin after after bypassing
19
19
21
4
5
Matching transition between solutions
and
Sand bypassing long groin as a function of time
Comparison between experimental and theoretical shoreline evolution
23
Comparison between experimental and theoretical sand bypassing discharge
23
CONTENTS
FIGURES- -continued
Page
.8
Spreading of sand along a shoreline due to instantaneous dumping at a point

Sand dumping along a finite stretch of beach
25
25
.*
. .
10 11
Equilibrium profile between two headlands
27
Two theoretical forms of shoreline equilibrium of river deltas
29
12
Differences on shoreline configuration due to onshoreoffshore transport near a groin
32
13
14
Notation for the two- line theory

Evolution of shoreline and offshore beach limit near a groin
Effect of wave diffraction
34
38
41
15
16
Hooked beaches
Indentation ratio for a range of wave obliquity
Orthogonal arrays for numerical scheme of hooked bay
43
17 18
19
43
45
Orthogonal arrays for numerical scheme of hooked bay

Semi logarithmic profiles
46
47
20
21
Relationship between shoreline retreat and change in mean water level
48
CONVEllSION FACTORS, U.S. CUSTOMARY TO MHTRIC (SI)
UNITS OF MEASUREMENT
U.S. customary units of measurement used in this report can be converted to metric (SI) units as follows:
Multiply
inches
by
25.4 2.54 6.452 16.39
To obtain
square inches cubic inches

feet
millimeters centimeters square centimeters cubic centimeters

centimeters meters square meters cubic meters
meters square meters cubic meters
square feet cubic feet

yards square yards cubic yards miles square miles knots
acres
30.48 0.3048 0.0929 0.0283
0.9144 0.836 0.7646

1.6093 259.0
1.85 32
kilometers hectares kilometers per hour

hectares
newton meters
X
0.4047
1.3558 1.0197
28.35
10"
foot-pounds
millibars
ounces
kilograms per square centimeter

grams
grams lograms
pounds
453.6 0.4536
1.0160
0.90 72
ki
ton,
long
metric tons metric tons

radians
ton, short
degrees (angle)
0.1745
5/9
Fahrenheit degrees
Celsius degrees or Kelvins^
To obtain Celsius (C) temperature readings from Fahrenheit (F) readings, use formula: C = (5/9) (F -32).
To obtain Kelvin (K) readings, use formula:
K =
(5/9)
(F -32)
273.15.
SYMBOLS AND DEFINITIONS

time
ox
horizontal axis at S W
parallel to the (initial) beach profile
oy
horizontal axis at profile
perpendicular to the (initial) beach
beach depth (depth beyond which sediment transport is negligible)
wave angle with beach profile
wave angle with beach profile at infinity
longshore transport (littoral drift) discharge

dQ
da
constant
parameter
=/^âH
E(u)
Fresnel integral
E(u)
du
length of groin
time for the beach profile to reach the end of the groin
t'
transform time
'
0.62t
sinusoidal beach amplitude (at time
o)
parameter related to beach wavelength
L:A =
(H
I
- 1
parametric value of
defining volume of beach dumping
parametric value of
defining volume of beach dumping
parameter used to define hypocycloid beach profile between headlands
^1
and
coefficients used in the littoral drift formula to characterize the effect of wave angle
H,
breaking wave height
d,
water depth at inception of wave breaking
group velocity
littoral drift constant
6.42 x 10"
distance of shoreline from a horizontal axis parallel to the initial beach profile
distance of the offshore beach limit from parallel to the initial beach profile
horizontal axis
equilibrium distance
y_
onshore-offshore transport per unit length of beach

y
onshore-offshore transport parameter (dimension
LT
longshore sand transport discharge in shallow v/ater
Q^
longshore sand transport in deeper water
y*
Xi
72
distance of the beach profile to a spiral center
angle parameter in mathematical description of hooked bays
spiral angle in mathematical description of hooked bays
depth of hooked bays
distance between headlands
MATHEMATICAL MODELING OF SHORELINE EVOLUTION

by
Bernard Le Mehaute and Mills Soldate
I.
INTRODUCTION
This interim report presents a critical literature survey on the Hopefully, subject of mathematical modeling of shoreline evolution. this review will lead the way in establishing a flexible and practical numerical method suitable to predict shoreline evolution, resulting from the construction of navigation and shore protection structures in the Great Lakes.
To focus attention on the most pertinent literature, the subject under consideration is Timited to long-term shoreline evolution as defined below.
Three time scales of shoreline evolution can be distinguished:

(a)
(b)
Geological evolution taking place over centuries;
long-term evolution from year-to-year or decade; and
(c) short-term or seasonal evolution and evolution taking place during a major storm.
Associated with these time scales are distances or ranges of influThe geological time scale deals, for ence over which changes occur. instance, with the entire area of the Great Lakes. The long-term evolution deals with a more limited stretch of shoreline and range of influence; e.g., between two headlands or between two harbor entrances. The short-term evolution deals with the intricacies of the surf zone circulation; e.g., summer profile-winter profile, bar, rhythmic beach patterns, etc.
For the problem under consideration, long-term evolution is of primary importance, the short-term evolution appearing as a superimposed perEvolution of the coastline is turbation on the general beach profile. characterized by low monotone variations or trends on which are superimposed short bursts of rapid development associated with storms. The primary cause of long-term evolution is water waves or wavegenerated currents. Three phenomena intervene in the action which waves have on shoreline evolution:
Erosion of beach material by short period seas versus (a) accretion by longer period swells;
(b) (c)
effect of (lake]
level changes on erosion; and
effect of breakwaters, groins, and other structures.
Even though mathematical modeling of shoreline evolution has inspired some research, it has received only limited attention from practicing engineers. The present methodology is based mainly on
(a) the local experience of engineers who have a deep knowledge of their sectors, understand littoral process, and have an inherent intuition of what should happen; and (b) movable-bed scale models that require extensive field data for their calibration.
In the past, theorists have been dealing with idealized situations, rarely encountered in engineering practice. It seems that mathematical modelers have long been discouraged by the inherent complexity of the phenomena encountered in coastal morphology. The lack of well-accepted laws of sediment transport, offshore-onshore movement, and poor wave climate statistics have made the task of calibrating mathematical models very difficult.
Considering, on one hand, the importance of the subject of determining the effect of construction of long groins and navigation structures and on the other, the progress which has been made in determining wave climate and littoral drift, it now appears that a mathematical approach could be useful.
The complexity of beach phenomena could, to a large extent, be taken into account by means of numerical mathematical scheme, (instead of in closed-form solutions) dividing space and time intervals into small elements, in which the inherent complexity of the morphology could be taken into account.
,
Furthermore, better knowledge of the wave climate, a necessary input, will allow a better calibration of coastal constants such as found in the littoral drift formula.
This study emphasizes the relative importance of various reports and reviews the most important ones. Conclusions based on this review are (Subpresented, pointing out the deficiencies of the state-of-the-art. sequent investigators should attempt to bridge the remaining gaps.)
The reports are presented individually, primarily in chronological order. Two milestone developments from this survey are reports by Pelnard-Considere (1956) and by Bakker (1968b) Others are extensions and refinements, experimental verifications, support papers, numerical procedures, and side issues, including the latest developments on "hooked beaches" or crenulate-shaped bays.
.
II.
THE FIRST MODEL (PELNARD-CONSIDERE)
The idea of mathematically formulating shoreline evolution is attributed by Bakker (1968a) to Bossen, but no reference to Bossen is given. The first report which appears in the literature, on mathematical modelHis ing of shoreline evolution, is by Pelnard-Considere (1956). theoretical developments were substantiated by laboratory experiments The experimental results fit the made at Sogreah (Grenoble), France. It is surprising that such relatively theoretical results very well. simple theory has not been more frequently applied to prototype cases by a the profession (at least as it would appear from the open literature) fact which may be attributed to the lack of knowledge of wave climates.
,
Pelnard-Considere assumed that:

the beach profile remains similar and determined by (a) Therefore, all contour lines are the equilibrium profile. This assumption permits him to consider the problem to parallel. be solved for one contour line only.
(b) The wave direction is constant and makes a small angle with the shoreline (<20).
The longshore transport, Q (c) tangent of the angle of incidence a
is linearly related to the f (a) = tan a) (Q - f (a) ,
D (Fig. 1). The beach has a fixed (ill-defined) depth, (d) is a factor relating erosion retreat to volume removed from
profile, which could be defined by the threshold velocity of sand under wave action. A practical method of determination of D is given in Section VIII.
Despite the crudeness of these approximations, the Pelnard-Considere model can be considered as a milestone in demonstrating the feasibility of mathematical modeling of long-term shoreline evolution. For this reason, it is judged useful to describe in some detail his theoretical development
Consider an axis, ox parallel to the main coastal direction and perpendicular seawards (Fig. 2). The angle the deepwater wave makes with the axis, ox is a The angle of the wave with the o shoreline a at any location is assumed to be small; therefore,
,
an axis, oy
a = a
tan
-I
3y ^ 9x
3y -^
3x
or
3y Sx
,,.
.
(1)
(y = f (x,t) gives the form of the shoreline as function of time t) The littoral drift Q is a function of angle incidence a and can be put into a Taylor series:
13
Figure
1.
Beach depth definition.
Figure
2.
Successive beach profiles updrift of a long groin before bypassing (from LeMehaute and Brebner, 1961).
Q =
,
Q,
3Q
f
3a
(2]
in
v\fhich
incidence is
denotes the transport, Q when the angle of the wave Substituting equation (1) into equation (2) yields: a
,
.
9Q Q = Q.
Sy
C3]
the shoreline recedes (or accretes) by During the interval of time, dt Therefore, the volume of sand which is removed (or dy a quantity is The quantity is D dx dy deposited) over a length of beach, dx between equal to the difference of longshore transport during time, dt X and X + dx; i.e..
,
.
Q dt and
and
Q + ^r^ dx o X
dt
3Q ax
Therefore,
dt
Substituting the expression for
being small, and defining
K -
1^ da
D
(5)
yield:
9y 9t
(6)
9x
which is the well-known diffusion or heat-flow equation.

K
is approximately constant at a given site,

.6
Bakker (1968a) found
equal to 0.4 x 10" cubic meters per meter depth per year, at an exposed site along the coast of the Netherlands. Equation (6) demonstrates that the
K
rate of accretion or (erosion), ^^ ot
gy-
is
linearly related to the curvature of
the coast, the derivative of the longshore transport rate with respect dQ and inversely proporto the angle of the wave incidence, da
tional to the beach depth, D
The above equation will be recognized as the well-known diffusion A number of classical solutions of mathematical physics are equation. applicable to the diffusion equation when boundary conditions are Pelnard-Considere (1956) applied his theory to the case of specified. This case is reviewed below: a littoral barrier or long groin.
The longshore transport rate along a straight, long beach is suddenly stopped by the construction of a long groin built perpendicular to The boundary conditions are: the beach (see Fig. 2). for all x when (a) y = o initial straight shoreline.
which characterizes an
At the groin, the longshore transport rate Q = o which is (b) realized when the waves approach the shore normally; i.e., when
9y
-tan a
at
x = o
37
(c)
3y
at a large distance updrift
>
and
Q = Q
is the steady-state longshore transport along a straight beach Q The solution for the given boundary for the given wave conditions. conditions is:
^Kt
exp
(-U
y/V
(u)
(7)
where
u =^j^y/^ând
(u)
is the Fresnel
integral,
(u)
Vtt~
or more frequently, Values of E (u) in tabulated form as given in Table
=
C8)
(J)
(u)
(u)
can be found
1:
16
Table
u
1.
u versus
0.5
(u)
0.1
0.2
0.3
0.4
0.7
0.9
1.2
i(u)
0.112
0.223
0.328
0.428
0.520
0.667
0.796
0.910
0.995
Fig.
It
is
illustrates the shoreline evolution as defined by equation (8). interesting that these curves are homothetic with respect to the
o
;
origin
i.e.,
oA
oA'
oB_
oB'
oC_
oC
t
,
g^^
'
The horizontal lengths grow with
and in particular,
tan a
oy
VkT
A tangent to the shoreline at the groin intersects the initial shoreline
defined by
the groin.
y = o
at a point a distance of
VKt/ir
updrift from
The ratio of the area of sand accumulation, such as is in

,
oyx
D
to
the area of sand contained in the triangular fillet, oyx is 1.56 and the distance ox h. 2 7 ox This ratio permits rapid assessment of
. .
the total amount of sand accumulated updrift from a single measurement of the angle a and determination of D as shown in Section IV. '^
,
The end of the groin of length, oy =

2
is reached when
(10)
1
.1. 4K tan a
When
_>
the boundary conditions must be modified since the groin
no longer traps all the sand but bypasses some of it.

If the same theory is applied to the beach downdrift of the groin and if assumed that the wave diffraction effects are negligible, the beach is eroded in a form symmetric with the updrift accretion.
When t = t sand begins to
the end of the groin is reached by the shoreline and be bypassed around the groin. oy
=
>
The boundary condition at the groin becomes The solution then becomes (Fig. 3) t
. :
(constant) for
y =
2.
(11)
/4Kt
The curves representing the shoreline become homothetic with respect to i.e., the axis oy
;
AB A'B"
AC
A'C
ox
The area between the shoreline and the
axis
(oy x')
is given by:
2,.tl'^
f-
fillet, The area of triangular ^
x oy ^
o o
is
N^Kt _ 4 2
Hence,
2(
oy X
Kt
1.27
(12)
o o
f
and
ox''
V^t
2x
is slightly = t " as
The shoreline as described by equation (7) at time t = t different from the shoreline defined by equation (11) at shown in Fig. 4.
The volume of sand defined by both curves is equal when the time
t.
of
equation that
(7)
is replaced by the time t
"
in equation
(11)
in such a way
"-{
2
16"
0.62t
(13)
18
Figure
3.
Successive beach profiles updrift of a groin after sand bypassing (from Le Mehaute and Brebner, 1961].
M V
Eq.ll(t'^ = 0.62t,)
Eq.7
(t
t,
Figure 4,
Matching transition between solutions
and
2,
19
Therefore, the shoreline evolves initially as represented by equation Then, when t = t the shoreline keeps evolving as given by (7)
.
equation (11), as if the time were

,
0.38t
Then',
the sediment dis-
charge bypassing the groin is equal to the incoming discharge Q minus the volume of sand which accumulates per unit of time, Q ^ ô
KDi
O.t)
TTK(t-0.38t^)
1/2
(14)
I.e.
Q(t)
Q,
tana
["
7TK(t-0 38t^) 1
.
1/2
(15)
i'
or again
0.638
Q(t)
= Q,
Rt/t^)
1/2
0.381
(16)
In dimensionless terms, (see Fig. 5) (16)
the following values are obtained for equation
Q/Q,
1
0.189
0.315
1.25
1.5
2
0.397
0.498
0.605 0.665
0.703
It takes a long time before the value of charge, downdrift of the groin. Q
,
approaches initial dis-
20
21
The shoreline may be deduced at any time, t by a homothetic transformation about the oy axis from the knowledge of the shoreline at a given time, t and also by applying the simple relationship (see Fig. 3)
,
,
AD
ft
-
AC
^^'^
(17)
0.38t^l
\t^
0.38t 1
The theory of Pelnard-Considere has been verified in laboratory experiments with fairly good accuracy. The steady-state littoral drift, was obtained experimentally from preliminary calibration over a Q straight shoreline. The results of these experiments are shown in Figs. However, the shoreline predicted by theory is not expected 6 and 7. to be valid downdrift of the groin because of the influence of wave diffraction around the groin tip. Some sand begins to bypass the groin by suspension before t = t (see Fig. 5). Also, different boundary conditions apply to different contour lines since the deeper contour lines reach the end of the groin before the contour lines which are near the shoreline, which implies the one-dimensional theory is no longer entirely satisfactory.
,
Subsequently, Lepetit (1972) also conducted laboratory experiments which verify the results of a numerical scheme based on the theory of
Lepetit's exPelnard-Considere. He used the law, Q: sin a Vcosa periments were carried out with a very small angle between wave crest and shoreline.
.
Refinement and Extensions of the Pelnard-Considere Model

'
After Pelnard-Considere s contribution, the mathematical formulation of shoreline evolution has proceeded at a slow pace. The first refinements came in improving the longshore transport rate (littoral drift) formula, in particular, modifying the expression relating sediment transport to incident wave angle.
Based on results from laboratory experiments performed by Sauvage
and Vincent
(1954)
,
Larras (1957) introduced the function f (a)

.
sin -j-
7a
New theoretical forms of also used by Le Mehaute and Brebner (1961) shoreline evolution are determined as solutions of the diffusion equation.
Introduction of the relationship
f(a)
sin
7a
instead of tana,
allows obtention of solutions valid for larger wave angles.
Of particular interest are the cases of shoreline undulations, since assuming linear superposition, any form of shoreline may be approximated by a Fourier series. The solution of the diffusion equation is then of
the form:
22
GROIN
z 1 > O uj
LLI
I-
(D \0 X. LO
*->
01
,1
01
Tl
tH
Crt
Ti
f
cS
4-)
en
aj
^
T
rt
4->
fl)
C
(D
T1 H
tn
C
0)
c (U 6
H
fH 01
O,
e o H (.J M
1
H O
!-i
Ph'+H
OJ
T1
Ph
(1>
h C
crt
c
0)
0)
tx
crt
to
cfl
Ph
fc:
i_)
Ph J3
e o
23
y = Be
cos
c^ -
^J
(18)
which indicates that shoreline undulations tend to decay exponentially B defines the beach undulation amplitude at and disappear with time. time, t = o and A is related to the wavelength, L of this undulation through the relationship:
,
(19)
(^y
Shoreline evolution due to the sudden dumping of material at a given point may be represented by:
^-x /4Kt
y = K
(20)
Equation (20) gives the spreading of the sand along the shoreline since
/-co
the integration
I
/
ydx, which expresses the conservation of sedi-
ment in the system, is a constant (see Fig. 8). mentioned by Pelnard-Considere

It
This solution was also
is interesting that much later, Noda (personal communication, investigated the same problem by taking an initial condition for sand dumping.
1974)
Y = constant when
<X
y = f(x,o)
when
|x|
>X
as shown on Fig. 9. Using the functional relationship now commonly accepted, f(a) = sin 2a Noda found that the solution to the diffusion equation to be:
,
y =
erf
(X
2
X)
erf
(-X + X)
(21)
2
VkF
Vl(t
24
Figure
8.
Spreading of sand along a shoreline due to instantaneous dumping at a point.
Figure
9.
Sand dumping along a finite stretch of beach [initial condition)
25
Even though the initial condition is different from the previous one, the solutions tend to be similar as time increases and are, therefore, both applicable to the problem of shoreline sand dumping. of a Also of interest is the solution, proposed by Larras (1957] beach equilibrium shape between two headlands or groins described by the equation:
,
9Q
9s
This" indicates no sand where s is the distance along the shoreline. transport along shoreline configuration and, therefore, yields an equilibrium to obtain:
7a ds = L cos T-
da
(where
is a
proportionality constant)
which gives
^ =
r^"^ "^
.
11a
11
3a
"I
""""^l
cos
3a
"1
(22)
-R
r
l^cos
^
11a
.
11
-^
Equation (22) defines a hypocycloidal form as might be found between two R is a parameter which is related to the headlands (see Fig. 10) a straight shoreline relative curvature of the shoreline. When R ^- < solution is obtained.
,
In Another family of solutions was given by Grijm (1960, 1964). these two publications, Grijm used the most commonly accepted expression and f(a) = sin 2a for dependence of longshore transport on angle, is not applied the theory to cases where the angle of incidence, a Subsequently, he established the kind of shoreline necessarily small. which can exist mathematically under steady-state conditions.
,
Even though the theoretical approach obeys the same physical assumption as the previous theory (except for the allowable range for the The angle of incidence), his mathematical formulation is not as simple. The conshoreline is defined with respect to a polar coordinate axis. tinuity equation is solved in parametric form, which is integrated Details of Grijm' s compueither by computer or by graphical methods. tations are not available.
26
WAVE
HEADLAND
Figure 10,
Equilibrium profile between two headlands.
27
The main interest of the report lies in the results. (a = 45) shore transport rate reaches a maximum value tends to form a cusp; i.e., a cape as shown in Fig. 11.
When the longthe shoreline
Also of interest is Grijm's (1964) mathematical formulation for different forms of river deltas for which he finds two possible solutions, one with an angle of wave incidence everywhere less than 45, and The shoreline another with the angle of incidence greater than 45. The curvature also depends upon the angle a as shown on Fig. 11. problem remains indefinite since it is unknown which solution is valid.
The formulation of Grijm does not lend conveniently to numerical adaptation.
Bakker' and Edelman (1964) also studied the form of river deltas, but as Grijm, they used the linear approxiinstead of using f(a) = sin 2a mation as given by Pelnard-Considere; i.e., f(a) S k tana for They also investigated the case of large angle of o < tana < 1.23 approach using the function:
,
.
fret)
tana
for
1.23
<
tana
<
<
Bakker and Edelman's (1964) solutions are similar to that of Grijm; however, they also found a periodic solution as Larras (1957) did:
^dQ
1
^'t
y = exp
cos kx
da
(23)
Equation (23) represents a sinusoidal shoreline for which the amplitude of tne undulations decreases with time if
-r-^
is positive
(i.e.,
for small angles of wave incidence), but increases when
do
-r-^
is negative
The shoreline is thus un(i.e., for large angle of wave incidence). It can be stable and the amplitude of the undulations increases. deduced that Grijm's solution for large angles of incidence is not naturally found, since they are unstable and will be destroyed as small perturbations trigger large deviations.
Bakker (1968a) implies that Grijm did not discover this instability because he confined himself to solutions growing linearily with t in also exists. t all directions, while the exponential solution in Komar (1973) also applies a numerical scheme based on the PelnardConsidere approximation to the problem of delta growth. He found shoreline shapes identical to Grijm in the case of a small angle of approach.
From these investigations, it is remembered that the PelnardConsidere approach is very powerful to predict shoreline evolution under But under large angle of incidence, instabilismall angle of incidence. Furthermore, the ty of the shoreline makes it very difficult.
28
(unstable)
Figure 11.
Two theoretical forms of shoreline equilibrium of river deltas.
29
phenomenology of interaction between wave and shoreline is not accurately defined mathematically.
2.
Example of Shoreline Evolution
Because of its importance, an example application of the theory of shoreline evolution is presented. However, the example is slightly modified to account for the generally accepted longshore transport rate formula:
Q
=
^ Pg
H^ Cg sin 2a^
(24)
where
Q
a,
longshore transport rate cubic feet per second

wave breaking angle
=
=
H
C
breaking wave height

wave group velocity at breaking constant
-3
-
k = a
6.42 x
10
pg = specific weight of seawater.
For the case of a groin perpendicular to shore, consider the average beach conditions:
H,
feet
d^ =
a
=
6.4 feet
5
c
o D =
20 feet
C g
\/ gd,
14.4 feet per second
Thus,
^= ^
_
I6 Pg "b
^"
^\
5"
(6.42 x 10"^) 8 x
(64)
[14.4)
20
"-^^
Substituting into equation (10), yields:
30
t-
1.3 X 10
days,
4K tan a
In tabular form for various groin lengths,
I ft
50
100
200
52
500
days
13
325
Check
For
=
50 feet
Area
Ox,y
1.56 x Area oxy
1.56
2
tana
0.78 I tana
=
= 22,400
square feet
Volume
Q
(Area ox y)
b'
(D)
4.5 x
10
cubic feet
= ^r2
KD
tan
2a,
^b
1.6 cubic feet per second
4.5
X
;;j
10
2.8 X
,5
10
seconds
, ^ 3 days.
III.
THE TWO-LINE THEORY OF BAKKER
One limitation of the solutions of Pelnard-Considere is the assumpBakker [1968a) realized that the onetion of parallel depth contours. line theory of Pelnard-Considere and its subsequent development may, at times, lead to some inaccuracy, since beach slope variations along the Beach slope variations with respect to time shore were not considered. (summer-winter profiles) are not important in the long-term shoreline Nevertheless, if an adequate onshore-offshore profile evolution. response model was available, a suitable mathematical representation of it could be developed (Dean, 1973; Swart, 1974).
Near coastal structures, the deviations of the model from prototype Pelnard-Considere finds that the accreconditions can be considerable. tion and erosion patterns are symmetrical with respect to the groin as However, in reality, the updrift profile becomes shown on Fig. 12. The steeper than the equilibrium profile and the sand moves seaward. downdrift profile is flatter than the equilibrium profile and the sand
31
Coastline with Parallel Contour lines
Arrows show direction of movement
More Reasonable Approximation
Figure 12.
Differences on shoreline configuration due to onshore-offshore transport near a groin (from Bakker, 1968b).
32
To reproduce the onshore-offshore is pushed shoreward by the waves. movement in a mathematical model, it is necessary to schematize the coast by two or more contour lines instead of one.
Bakker's [1968b} two-contour-line model is not easily applied to practical engineering problems encountered by designers, due to lack of knowledge about onshore-offshore transport. However, his contribution toward establishing a realistic mathematical model of shoreline evolution is of sufficient importance to deserve detailed review.
(Fig.
Bakker (1968b) assumes that the profile is divided into two parts The upper parts extending to a depth, D 13). are affected by
,
the groin, the part below D
extends offshore to a depth of D
which is the assumed practical seaward limit of material movement.

The "equilibrium distance",
w
,
is defined by a distance
(y"
y,
corresponding to an equilibrium profile under normal conditions; i.e., far away from the groins
The onshore-offshore transport is defined by: Q
=
(y^
y2 + w)
(25)
where q
(y-i
is a proportionality constant
+
(dimension LT
When
y^
w)
is positive, q
1 -
the transport is seaward; when negative, it
is shoreward.
coast equal to Letting y2 = y;
to 10 meters per year for a depth D w then, Qy = q^ (y^ " 2-)

>
.
has been found by Bakker for a part of the Dutch = 3 meters.
Now, following Pelnard-Considere; i.e., developing the expression for the longshore transport rate Q in a Taylor series in terms of a
(a
(26)
which gives in linear approximations:

dQ da
Q = Q.
(27)
33
GROIN
V
"
Di
'
/
>
-
1
,fr-
^1
,
y'?
D2
'
Figure 13.
Notation for the two-line theory.
34
Defining
(28)
then.
^?
y, (x)
This equation is now applied to both lines,
and
y^(x)
9yi
Qi 1
= Q.T ôl
q ^1
(29)
9x
3y^
Q9 2
Q.9 ô2
(30)
<^
^2 3x
The equation of continuity.
(31)
3x
9t
is
modified by the term
due to onshore-offshore transport so that
3Qt
3yi
-
9^
3Q
Qy
13t-
(32)
3^ ^Qy
3t
(33)
Substituting equations (1),
(2),
and (3)
for Q
gives:
y
^\
9/^
^^1
"
^2^
(34)
1
3t
35
3^y,
9/2
9x
Adding both equations yields:
q D
,2
3
y
2
^2
+
\
/
3^(^1
"
^2]
9x
d2
D.
.2 3x
9y 3t
(36)
in which
^^
and
(D^y^ . D^y^)
(37)
For simplicity, Bakker (1968b) assumes
=
1
^1
"^2
y-
2
which implies that
derivatives of the littoral drift transport with respect to

dQ
da
are proportional to depth
Then, dividing
equation
(6)
by D
and
respectively, and subtracting, yield
9x
~ir
'
DTdT
12
^^*^
"
~9t
^^^^
where
y^ = y,
y^
It
which is the equation for the offshore-onshore

interesting that the offshore-onshore transport
transport q y^
is
is
independent of the longshore transport.
Using the auxiliary variable.
36
the diffusion equation is still obtained:
^
=
f40)
Bakker has applied his theory to a number of idealized cases, including the behavior of a sand beach near a groin, assuming
1
^2
(41) q^
=
q.
The boundary conditions are:
a.
Initial condition
Then, when
(1)
(t
= o)
for
o<x
and
b.
t>o:
Y-y
Xi
for
x-^^
and
o <t<
(which implies an equilibrium profile)
(2)
= o
for
x = o
(3)
tana
^1
for
x = o
33r
The results are expressed in terms of lengthy power series, and are
represented graphically in Fig. 14.

The case of equilibrium beach profiles between groins was also investigated by Bakker (1970).
Despite the complex refinement of the two-line theory, as initially developed by Bakker, a number of phenomena that have significant influence on the beach profile are still neglected. Among these are:
rip The influence of rip current near the groins is twofold: currents transport material from beach to the offshore and cause wave refraction
a.
37
LONGSHORE TRANSPORT
^groin
_S
6.0
2.0
4.0
6.0
4.0
2.0
S;
2.0 S
2.0!*
Figure 14.
Evolution of shoreline and offshore beach limit near a groin (from Bakker, 1968b)
38
b. The influence of diffraction on the leeward side of groins which has an effect in the immediate vicinity of the shoreline.
The effect of changing, wave direction caused by refraction changes c. the magnitude of longshore transport rate and the boundary conditions.
d.
The nonlinearity in thp transport equation is of minor importance for small angles of incidence (for a> 45 the coastline becomes
,
unstable as previously mentioned)

The two- line theory has been verified experimentally (Hulsbergen, Van Bochove, and Bakker, 1976), and shows a trend identical to the experimental results. There are some differences at a small scale due to secondary currents, breaking wave type, changes of wave height due to small changes in morphology, etc. These, however ,.'$re short-term rather than long-term evolution phenomena.
IV.
THE EFFECT OF WAVE DIFFRACTION
The effect of wave diffraction was subsequently taken into account by Bakker (1970). Initially, this was done for the one-line theory of Pelnard-Considere and later for Bakker 's two-line theory.
Pelnard-Considere
'
equations.
Q = Q^(x)
q(x)
-g
q(x)
(42)
and
9y
3t
qOO
D
3Q(x)
dx
(43)
Still apply. and q are now functions of x since both the Q incident wave height and angle of approach vary along the shore with because of wave diffraction. X
,
,
Inserting the expression for
in the continuity equation, yields:
3t
'
3x
3x
dx
'
39
It
is
assumed that the longshore transport rate,

[a
)
,
is
proportional
to the angle of wave incidence,
and the Square of the rela-
The variation of wave height with x is given by the tive wave height. diffraction theory of Putnam and Arthur (1948) The modification of wave diffraction by wave refraction is neglected.
.
A similar approach has been proposed by Price, Tomlinson, and Willis
(1972)
who assume that
0.35
Q
a
Y,
sin 2a
x
where
as is a
is the trans-
mitted energy which is also
function of
(and y
is the
submerged density of the beach material). then obtain the one-line theory equation:
Price, Tomlinson, and Willis
0.55
sm
dE da 2a -; + 2E cos 2a -rdx dx
.b|I .o
(45)
which is solved numerically with
a = a
tan
-1
^r
3y
(46)
Laboratory experiments were performed with crushed coal by Price, Tomlinson, and Willis (1972) The theory giving the effect of wave diffraction was verified by the experiments at the beginning of the test. After a 3-hour test which may correspond to a prototype storm duration, it is stated that the wave refraction pattern invalidates the input wave data and a complex boundary condition developed at the updrift end of the wave basin.
.
Bakker's (1970) consideration of wave diffraction has been included in his two-line theory where.
9yi
=
Qi
^1
(47)
3y,
-
q 2 "3F
(48)
Neither the deepwater line, defined by
(x,t), nor q
and
is
affected by diffraction. Fig. 15 presents typical results obtained from this theory for the case of beach evolution near a groin and between two groins
40
Wave
incidence
Offshore Contours
Shoreline Contours
4At
-8At
16At
Accretion and erosion near a groin, numerical solution with diffraction (two-line theory)
Wave incidence
Offshore Contours
Shoreline Contours
Behavior of beach and inshore between two groins (two-line theory]

Figure 15.
Effect of wave diffraction (from Bakker, 1970)
41
V.
SPIRAL BEACHES
Hooklike beaches (Fig. 16) are common along exposed coasts and are formed by the long-term combined effects of refraction and diffraction around headlands. Yasso (1965) discovered that the planimetric shape of many of these beaches could be fitted very closely by a segment of logarithmic spiral; the distance, r from the beach to the center of the spiral increasing with the angle according to
,
exp
cot
(49)
in which
is the spiral
angle.
Bremmer (1970) has shown the logarithmic spiral to give an excellent fit for the profile of a recessed beach between two headlands.
The evolution of spiral beaches belongs to the geographical timescale domain (Sylvester and Ho, 1972) However, similar evolution has also been observed over smaller time scales in consonance with the definition of long-term shoreline evolution adopted in this study.
.
So far, only empirical rather than theoretical mathematical representations of spiral beaches are available. The empirical approach has been fruitful in providing the spiral coefficients as function of 3 with the headland alinement (Fig. 16) (Sylvester and wave angle, a The "indentation ratio" (depth of the bay to width of openHo, 1972). ing) also depends upon a and, in most cases, varies between 0.3 and
,
0.5
(Fig.
17).
There have been many attempts to explain this peculiar beach formation (Leblond, 1972; Rea and Komar, 1975). Leblond assumed that the rate of sediment transport is proportional to the longshore currents as given by the theory of Longuet-Higgins (1975) He also assumed that the beach profile is not modified by erosion or accretion so that the continuity equation from the one-line theory can be used in a two-dimensional coordinate system.
.
Thus, the variation in longshore current intensity with wave angle will yield the rate of erosion or accretion.
Difficulties arise in expressing this variation of longshore current in areas subjected to wave diffraction. Leblond (1972) points out that classical wave diffraction theories are too complicated to be used in
his theoretical scheme. Another difficulty arises from the fact that the barrier (headland) is not thin as it is assumed in the theory of diffraction of Putnam and Arthur (1948). To account for this effect, Leblond introduces an empirical correction coefficient to the theory The results of of Putnam and Arthur over a two-dimensional network.
42
HEADLAND
Figure 16.
Hooked beaches,
CRENULATE- SHAPED BAYS
LEGEND
4
^' r^
^^^
^4
i^
^
d^
Vichetpan Experiment
^J.U.
O Ho
X
Experiment prototype bays typical bay Bedock Singapore
J^
9
j-
^-&-^
Xj
1
Ji'-fsr o.
X
y
20 30
40
50
60
70
80
90
Figure 17.
Indentation ratio for a range of wave obliquity (from Sylvester and Ho, 1972).
43
such a complex scheme, which is plagued with numerical instabilities, Even though the results show how oblique waves are shown in Fig. 18. initiate an erosion pattern that might eventually lead to the formation of hooklike beaches, they do not show that the beaches represent a good fit to segments of a logarithmic spiral.
Rea and Komar (1975) developed an approach to overcome the numerical instability encountered by Leblond. They combined two orthogonal, one-dimensional arrays as shown on Fig. 19. In this way, deformation of the beach can proceed in two directions without the necessity of a twodimensional array. The wave configuration in the shadow zone was described by various simple empirical functions which resulted in beach configurations fairly approximated by a logarithmic spiral.
The main interest in the work of Rea and Komar (1975) is that they show the lack of sensitivity of the shoreline evolution in the shadow zone to the actual pattern of incident waves used. Also, the sensitivity of the beach shape to the energy distribution seems to be small.
VI.
PROTOTYPE APPLICATIONS
The application of mathematical models of shoreline evolution to prototype conditions is not very well documented in the literature. It is certain that, at least in its simplified form such as given by PelnardConsidere, the method has been used by practicing engineers and designers. It has been reported in unpublished reports but very little has appeared in the open literature.
Weggel (1976) has formulated a numerical approach to coastal processes which is particularly adapted to prototype situations. In particular, it includes:
a. A method for determining the water depth beyond which the onshoreoffshore sediment transport is negligible. This information is particularly useful in determining the quantity D used in Pelnard-Considere' theory and others. It is also useful in determining the effect of a change of sea level. Beach profile data are plotted on semilog paper and the base elevation of the most seaward point varied until an approximate straight line is obtained (see Fig. 20). He found D = 70 feet at Pt. Mugu, California.
b.
The effect of a change in sea level, a Great Lakes, is also taken into account in Using the principle of similarity (1962). shoreline recession Ay is related to the the relationship (Fig. 21):
situation pertinent to the way proposed by Bruun of shoreline profile, the change of water level a by
a
44
WAVE DIRECTION
t
iiiiiiiiiniifii>nin/iin\
SHADOW
I
I
LINE
Figure 18.
Orthogonal arrays for numerical scheme of hooked bay (from Leblond, 1972).
45
*- X
Figure 19.
Orthogonal arrays for numerical scheme of hooked bay (from Rea and Komar, 1975)
.
46
100
PROFILES AT PT.MUGU, CALIFORNIA (STATION 1467+60)
10
approx.
1st approx.
JQ_
1000
2000
3000
4000
(feet)
5000
6000
DISTANCE OFFSHORE
Figure 20.'
Semi logarithmic profiles (from Weggel, 1976)
47
48
c.
A numerical scheme in which the effect of wave diffraction could be included.
d.
A statistical characterization of wave climate and longshore energy flux.
Examples of recent prototype analysis and prediction of shoreline evolution by mathematical modeling are Apalachicola Bay by Miller (1975) and the Oregon coastline by Komar, Lizarraga-Arciniega, and Terich (1976) Both studies are based on numerical schemes related to the PelnardConsidere (one-line) formulation.
VII.
CONCLUSIONS
There are two methods of approach to the problems related to littoral processes. The first one, typified by the previously discussed reports, The method essentially based on consists of analyzing global effects. establishing "coastal constants" for a model by correlation between long-term evolution and wave statistics and subsequently, to use the model for predicting future effects. It appears that this method is the most promising for engineering purposes and could be termed the macroscopic view. The main results are summarized in Table 2.
The second approach, the microscopic view of the problem, consists step-by-step, on a rational Newtonian approach, starting with wave motion, threshold velocity for sand transport, equilibrium profiles of beaches, etc., until the individual components can be combined into an overall model to predict shoreline evolution. The second method or scientific approach has not progressed to the point where it can be applied to engineering problems in the foreseeable future.
in analyzing sediment transport,
However, much progress has been made in the last 5 years toward understanding the hydrodynamics of the surf zone through application of the "radiation-stress" concept. In theory, establishing a reliable mathematical model of surf zone circulation should permit a determinaPractically, however, intertion of the resulting sediment transport. action between a movable bed and the surf zone circulation, and the inherent instability of longshore currents limit this approach to the Among the problems that make this approach difficult realm of research. are the refraction and diffraction of water waves, uncertainty in predicting rip current spacing, and the effect of free turbulence generated by breaking waves on the rate of sediment suspension. Finally, the complexity of mathematical formulation, based on the radiation-stress concept, makes it difficult to use as a predictive tool when dealing with forcing functions expressed by statistical multidirectional sea spectra. This method is promising in explaining local effects (e.g., near groins), rhythmic topography, beach cusps, and shortterm evolution due to unidirectional sea states. All these effects are
49
Table
2.
Summary of mathematical models for shoreline evolution.

Experimental
Appli
offshore
TTie.
Very saall angle
Small angle
(-:25
Groins-sudden dump
Nonlinear differential
No
Forms of delt
Groins-sudden dump sinusoidol undulatii equilibrium shape
in 2a implied
Smalt and large
Cylindrical system of
No
Small angle o<tano<1.23 large angle 1.23<tana<
Nonlinear differentia equations.
Forms of delt
1968
Bakker
Very small angle
System of linear differential equations

2) J)
closed-fom solution
closed- form
1972
Price,
Ntimrical method based on Pelnard-Considere

(19S6)
WiHis
Small angle
Numerical method ba: on Pelnard-Considop

(1956)
C renul at ed- shaped
or spiral beaches
b.).
1972
Leblond
Proportional to
(radiation- stress)
Small angle
Numerical method
Spiral beaches
1973
Komar
Numerical method
Growth of delt
Numerical method
b.
fraction-diffract ii
1976
Itulsbergen,
sin 2a
Mathematical and
50
Table
2.
Summary of mathematical models for shoreline evolution. --continued

)>k>d
Effec of Diffra tion
loh i jc.i by re ract on
Main Conclu
lone-lire theory]
First significBnt milestone of int duction of Biathematical modeli-g t the study of shoreline evolution
Ho
tio
ô
'*o
"^^ forms of solution: One with concave shoreline (snail angle) One with convex shoreline (large angle)
No
No
No
No
No
Same as Larras (1957)
Two forms of solutions as in 1960 applied to a niniher of deltas, idealized cases
The itost significant contrib 1956 demonstrating the influ beach slope
of diffraction changing
Experimental verification for mon diffracting waves, i.e., updrift. fairly satisfactoTy
Good experimental verific
Combined effect. refractiondiffraction
Yes
No
No
Fit with
prototype cases
Combined effect of refraction 6 diffraction in protected areas; affecte. also to geological time evolution
Yes, but unsuccess- Yes fully (numerical
No
No
No
No
instability)
Qualitative fit only, unsuccessful; large distances between data point. Complexity of combined refractiondiffraction effect.
Numerical application of Pelnard-
'
Ho
No
No
No
No
No
Empirical development
(in principle)
superimposed on the long-term evolution for which an analysis can be done independently.
Among the significant recent reports leading toward understanding of surf zone circulation and related bottom topography are: Bowen and Inman (1969] who advocate the presence of edge waves as a cause of rip currents and beach cusps; Hino (1974) who states that rip currents are the result of mobility of the sand bed and hydrodynamic instability; Sonu (1972) and Noda (1972) demonstrated that a perturbation on bottom topography causing waves to refract and have varying intensity along the shore induces a variation in radiation stress which în turn enhances rip currents; finally, Liu and Mei (1976) applied the radiation-stress concept to a groin perpendicular to shore and to an offshore breakwater.
These investigations offer at least partial answers to a number of It important problems, important in understanding shoreline processes. definitely indicates that the radiation-stress approach holds the potential key to understanding many types of nearshore currents, heretofore unexplored. It is also evident that the study of surf zone hydrodynamics will rapidly reach a plateau if sand-water interaction problems are not mastered, and at this stage, these can only be considered empirically. Determinism leaves off with the inception of turbulence.
Even though the dynamics of nearshore currents hold the key to understanding of beach processes, application of the methodology based on radiation stress to investigate shoreline evolution mathematically is still beyond the state-of-the-art.
Both approaches could be pursued in parallel and the results of the scientific approach could slowly be incorporated into a practical engineering model.
Conclusions based on the literature survey, as summarized in Table 2, are:

There is sufficient laboratory verification to give credibility to a mathematical approach to the study of shoreline evolution for small
a.
angles of wave approach.

b.
For large angles of incidence, there is a lesser chance at arriving at a successful formulation since shorelines are then unstable and the
resulting shoreline evolution could not be predicted without the initiation of more basic research beyond the present state of knowledge.
c. Even though no field measurements subsequent to mathematical predictions have been found in the literature, many practicing engineers have applied the theory of Pelnard-Considere (1956) to predict shore evolution by taking into account variable wave climate. The method is easy to apply and provides valuable information.
52
Engineering applications to prototype cases based on more sophisticated approaches such as given by the two-line theory of Bakker (1968b) These more sophisticated approaches can be currently are not known. considered as belonging to the realm of research rather than of engineering practice.
d.
Local effects, diffraction, rip currents, wave refraction and interaction between these effects are, at present, still not so conveniently Introduction of these formulated to be used by practicing engineers. effects, if and when important in the mathematical formulation, is feasible but will require further investigation.
e.
-
A simple numerical scheme that can be used by design engineers and f. planners and which includes theoretical or empirically all important Effects that should be included in the effects could be developed. mathematical model are wave diffraction, loss of sand by rip currents along groins, sea (lake) level variation, and beach slope variation near groins.
The introduction of the concept of radiation stress in the matheg. matical formulation is not recommended at this time, but research related to this approach should be pursued in view of the eventual input that subsequent results could have on then existing operational mathematical models.
53
LITERATURE CITED
BAKKER, W.T., and EDELMAN, T., "The Coastline of River-Deltas," Coastal Engineering, 1964, pp. 199-218.
BAKKER, W.T., "The Coastal Dynamics of Sand Waves and The Experience of Breakwaters and Groynes," R'JKSWATEBSTAAT 1968a.
,
BAKKER, W.T., "The Dynamics of a Coast with a Groyne System," 11th Conference on Coastal Engineering, 1968b, pp. 492-517. BAKKER, W.T., "The Influence of Diffraction Near a Harbor Made on the Coastal Shape," Study Report R'JKSWATEBSTAAT, WWK 70-2, 1970.
and ROOS, A., "The Dynamics of a BAKKER, W.T., KLEIN BRETELER, E.H.J. Coast with a Groyne System," 12th Conference on Coastal Engineering, Washington, D.C., 1970, pp. 1001-1020.
,
BOWEN, A.J., and INMAN, D.L., "Rip Currents," Journal of Geophysical Research, Vol. 74, No. 23, Oct. 1969, pp. 5479-5490.
BREMMER, J.M., "The Geology of Wreck Bay," M.Sl Thesis, University of British Columbia, Vancouver, 1970.
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AIR 7f W^

MISCELLANEOUS REPORT NO. 77-10 OCTOBER 1977

for public release;

ARMY, CORPS OF ENGINEERS

COASTAL ENGINEERING RESEARCH CENTER

Reprint or republication of any of

shaD give appropriate

Coastal Engineering Research Center.

Limited free distribution within the United States of single copies of

this Center. Additional copies are

National Technical Information Service

5285 Port Royal Road Springfield, Virginia 22151

publication, or promotional purposes. Citation of trade

names does not

endorsement or approval of the use of such

REPORT DOCUMENTATION PAGE

READ INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE COMPLETING FORM

RECIPIENT'S CATALOG NUMBER

MATHEMATICAL MODELING OF SHORELINE EVOLUTION

Report No. TC-851 CONTRACT OR GRANT NUMBERCo)

Bernard Le Mehaute Mills Soldate

PERFORMING ORGANIZATION NAME AND ADDRESS

CONTROLLING OFFICE NAME AND ADDRESS

MONITORING AGENCY NAME a ADDRESSC/f

d///eren( Irotn Controlling Ollice)

(of this report)

fo/ (his ReporfJ

Approved for public release; distribution unlimited.

(of the abstract entered In

20, If different from Report)

3ary and Identity by block

Beach slope Coastal engineering Mathematical modeling

Shoreline evolution Waves

neceaaary and Identity by block number)

Comments on this publication are invited.

Colonel, Corps of Engineers Commander and Director

CONVERSION FACTORS, U.S. CUSTOMARY TO METRIC (SI)

Summary of mathematical models for shoreline evolution

Beach depth definition

Successive beach profiles updrift of a long groin before bypassing

Successive beach profiles updrift of a groin after after bypassing

Matching transition between solutions

Sand bypassing long groin as a function of time

Comparison between experimental and theoretical shoreline evolution

Comparison between experimental and theoretical sand bypassing discharge

Spreading of sand along a shoreline due to instantaneous dumping at a point

Equilibrium profile between two headlands

Two theoretical forms of shoreline equilibrium of river deltas

Differences on shoreline configuration due to onshoreoffshore transport near a groin

Notation for the two- line theory

Orthogonal arrays for numerical scheme of hooked bay

Relationship between shoreline retreat and change in mean water level

CONVEllSION FACTORS, U.S. CUSTOMARY TO MHTRIC (SI)

square inches cubic inches

millimeters centimeters square centimeters cubic centimeters

square feet cubic feet

30.48 0.3048 0.0929 0.0283

0.9144 0.836 0.7646

kilometers hectares kilometers per hour

kilograms per square centimeter

metric tons metric tons

Celsius degrees or Kelvins^

SYMBOLS AND DEFINITIONS