CHAPTER - 7WEAVING CALCULATION & USEFUL FORMULAS:7.1.

Count: A number indicating the Mass per unit Length OR The length per unit mass of Yarn. Expression of the fineness of Yarn. There are three Systems to Calculate Count 1. Indirect System2. Direct System3. Universal System1 Lea = 120 yd7 Leas =1 hank1 Hank =840 yds. or 768 meter 1. Indirect system Total No. of hanks per one pound is the count of that yarn (Ne) i.e. if 10 hanks (10 x840 yds. or 7680 meters) weighs one Pound or 0.454 Kg, then the Count of Yarn in indirectsystem 10s or 10Ne.This System widely used for staple fiber spun yarns like 100% Cotton, Viscose,Polyester fibers and their blends.Higher the yarn Count i.e Ne the yarn is finer 2. Direct System Count = Weight in grams per 9000 meters of yarnIn this system the yarn numbering is called as Denier (D) Higher the yarn number i.e Denier the yarn is coarser. 3. Universal System Count = No of grams per 1000 meters or per km of yarn.In this system count is called as Tex PoundsinWeightyards)(840hanksinLengthCount = Commonly used other numbering systemsI. Nf - French count: - It is the No of 1000 meters length in kg of yarnII. Nm - Metric system: - Count is the No of 1000 meters length per kg. ofyarn.III. Worsted system: - Count is the No. of 560 yards in one lbs.IV. Linen system: - It is the No. of leas of 300 yards per poundV. Hemp, Jute, Flax: - Count is the No of 14,400 yards length per pound ofyarn Conversion System English (Ne) to Denier (D) - Denier = 5315 / Ne English (Ne) to Tex - Tex = 590.5 / Ne French (Nf) to English (Ne) - English (Ne) = Nf x 1.181 7.2. Twist per Inch or meter (TPI or TPM) To give strength to the yarn, certain twist is given in the yarn. TPI vary according to end use of yarn. More twist for warp yarns, medium twistfor weft yarns and less twist for hosiery yarns. We calculate the twist as TPI or TPM. Twist is given in Z direction or S direction. If twist is given in CW direction it is Z twist. If it is given in CCW direction it is S twist. Single yarns are given Z twist and double yarns are given S twist. Twist relation for double yarn TPI = 0.7 x Single yarn TPI 7.3. Multi-filament Yarns

Multi-filament yarn are identified as 80/34/250, 80/34/0, 155/16/120Here the first number denotes the Denier, second shows No. of filaments in the yarn& the last indicate No. of Twist per meter. 7.4. Winding Calculation Slub catcher settings:a. Fixed Blade = Carded - (2.0 to 2.5) x DiameterCombed - (1.5 to 2.0) x Diameterb. Oscillating Blade = Smooth micro-set - 25% more than above c. Serrated Blade = 100% more than the aboved. Electronic yarn clearer = 3 cm x 3 DiameterDiameter = inches)countx(281/ For Blended yarn = 10 to 15% more settingsYarn clearer efficiency = 100presentFaultsremvedFaults Knot factor = faultsbleobjectionatodueBreaksof No.faults)(atwindingduringbreaksTotal Retained splice strength = yarnparentof strength100 jointsplicedof stength Winding Tension = 0.1 x Single strength in gramsOptimum spindles / winder N = 1Sy4.8 + ORExpected efficiency E = () 9812NSY4500 + Expected production P = () C981213Y + / Winder per 8 hrs. in kgsY = Length / Bobbin (meters.) B = breaks per bobbinS = Winding speed (meters./min) C = English count 7.5. Warping Calculations: Machine Efficiency E = SR100R + R = Uninterrupted running Time for 1000 meters (sec) = mtr/minin speedMachine601000 S = total of time, in seconds for which the machine is stopped for a production of 1000meters.= T4CLT3LT2400T1NB R ++++ B = End breaks / 400 ends / 1000 meters N = Number of ends.L = Set Length in 1000 meters C = Beams per creel.Timing of activities in Seconds areT1 = To mend a break T2 = To change a beamT3 = To change a Creel T4 = Miscellaneous Time loss / 1000 mtrs. Production in meters. per 8 hrs.(K) = 480 x mtrs / min x E / 100 Kgs.Production in Kgs. Per 8 hrs. = (K x N) / (1693 x English Count)Warping Tension = 0.03 to 0.05 x Single Thread Strength 7.6. Sizing Calculations: 1. CountWarp204.2 840EndsTotal 1.094 meterinLengthKg)(inweightWarp = 2. 100weight.warpsized-Unweight.warpSized-Un-weightwarpSized %ageuppick Size = 3. Weight of size = Warp Weight x Size pick up %4. 100Length.warpsized-UnLength.WarpSized-UnLengthWarpSized %ageStretch = 5. = 840(lbs.)weightwarpSizedyardsinlengthWarp EndsTotal CountyarnSized 6. % Moisture Content = 100 YarnSizdof Wt.YarnDriedOvenof Wt.-YarnSizedof Wt. 7. % Stretch = 100ReadingCounter FeedReadingCounter FeedReadingcounter Delivery

 8. % Droppings on loom = PNY454CD840000 D = Dropping in gms. C = English CountY = Length woven (yds.) N = Number of EndsP = % size add on9. Invisible Loss % = 100issuedsizeof Amountyarnonaddedsizeof Amount-issuedmaterialsizeof Amount Steam Consumption (Sizing M/c) = 2.0 kg / kg of sized yarn(Cooker) = 0.3 kg / kg of liquor(Sow box) = 0.2 kg / kg of yarn10. Max. Speed of machine (meters / min) = Endsof Number CountEnglish1000Cylinder of No. 11. Wt. Of Warp in gms / mtr = CountEnglish0.6Endsof No. 7.7. Weaving Calculations 1. Reed Count It is calculated in stock port system.No. of dents in 2 inches is called Reed Count 2. Reed Width3. Crimp %age4. Cloth Cover Factor 1. CountWarpEPIfactorcoverWarp = 2. countWeftPPIfactorcoverWeft = 3. 28Wt.C.F.Wp.C.F.Wt.C.FWp.C.FfactorcoverCloth += 5. Maximum EPI for particular count 1. For plain fabrics = Count14 2. For drill Fabrics = 6428Count 3. For satin fabrics = 7528Count 4. Other design = repeat / endsrepeat / onsintersectiof No.diameteryarn / 1repeat / Ends + 5. Yarn diameter. = Count281 %agecrimpWeft1EPIcountReed += 100lengthClothlengthCloth-lengthWarp %ageCrimpWarp = 100%agecrimpweft100hCloth widtWidthReed += 100hCloth widthCloth widt-lengthWeft%agecrimpWeft = 6. Weave Density a) Warp Density = KTexcm / Ends = < 250b) Filling Density = KTexcm / Picks = < 350c) Weave Density = 100-F.D.100)-dencity(Weft100-F.D.100)-dencity(Warp 50 +

d) Effective weave density = W. D x K of loom width x K of Design= < 72 Wp / filling - K Loom Width - K Weave Design - K Cotton = 1.00 140 cm - 0.99 Plain1/1 = 1.00Polyester/Cotton = 1.03 180 cm - 1.00 Twill 1/2 = 0.87Viscose Filament = 1.17 190 cm - 1.01 Matt, Gabardine 2/2 = 0.82Polyester Filament = 1.22 220 cm - 1.02 Drill 1/3 = 0.77250 cm - 1.08 Satin 1/4 = 0.69330 cm - 1.15360 cm 1.20 7. To change the count and number of thread / inch, keeping the same denseness ofthe fabric: 1. To change the EPI Without altering the denseness: clothgivenincountWarpclothexpectedincountWarpclothgiveninEPI ClothExp.inEPI = 2. To change the count without altering the denseness: clothgiveninCountclothgiveninEPI Clothexp.inEPI ClothExp.inCount 2 = 8. Warp requirement to weave a cloth a. Waste%age Countx840 crimp%453.591.0936endsTotal gms/mtrsinweightWarp = b. Waste%age%ageCrimp Countx840 PPIx453.59xinchesinR.S. gms/mtrsintWeft Weigh = c. inchesinS.R.xPPI 0.9144x1848count xx WeftkgsinWeft wt. weightgiven weftwith the mtrsinlengthCloth = For Silk and Polyester i. %ageWasteCrimp%9000(Denier)CountendsTotal mtrsgms/ inweightWarp = ii. %ageWaste%9000(Denier)CountPPI inchesinRS mtrsgms/ intWeft weigh = Crimp Allowance for count in Bleached and Dyed Fabric: Count becomes 4% FinerDyed counts become max 6% Coarser 9. Fabric production calculation 1. diameterpullyLoomdiameterpullyMotorRPMMotorSpeedLoom = 2. 100 ProductionCalculatedProductionActual %ageEfficiencyLoom = 3. 100 tYarn weighDryedtYarn weighDryed -tYarn weigh %ageRegainMoisture = 4. 100 tYarn weightYarn weighDryed -tYarn weigh %ageContentMoisture = Type of YarnMoistureRegain%MoistureContent% Cotton 8.50 7.83Jute 13.75 12.10Silk 11.00 9.91Rayon, Viscose 11.00 9.91Wool 17.00 14.50Nylon 4.20 3.78Polyester 5. CountWarp 1693.6meter.inlengthTape endsTotal Kg.inweightWarp = 6. CountWeft4301.14PPI metersinLengthClothmeters-centiinRS Kg.intWeft weigh = 7. 25.6 CountWeftPPICountWarpEPI GSMinhtCloth weig

 += 8. 34Sq.Meter)per(GramsGSM YardSq.per(Ounze)Oz. = 10. Material measurement: To calculate the length of any rolled fabrics, this formula gives the nearest accuracy.L = td)(Dd)(D0.0655 + Where L = Length of material (Feet) t = Thickness of fabrics (inches)D = Outside diameter (inches) d = Inside diameter (inches) 11. Weight of yarn in a cloth: The weight of cloth manufactured on looms depends upon the weight of yarns in thewarp and weft: ends/inch, picks/inch and the weight of size on the warp.Therefore, Cloth weight = Weight of warp + Weight of weft + Weight of size (All inlbs.)Where as Weight of warp in lbs. = CountYarnWarp840Yds.inLengthTapeEndsof No.Total Also Weight of weft in lbs.= CountYarnWeft840(inch)WidthReedClothininch/Picks(Yds)Clothof Length 7.8. YARN QUALITY & OTHER PARAMETERS1. Yarn Appearance: The Visual Effect obtained by viewing a sample of yarn wound with a designatedtraverse on a black board of designated size. Nep: a tightly tangled mass of unorganised fiber Slub: an abruptly thickened place of yarn Thick place: a yarn defect where the diameter is greater than the adjoiningsegments and extending for 6 mm Thin Place: a yarn segment where the diameter is 25% lesser than the averagediameter of yarn Fuzz: Untangled fibers that protrude from the surface of the yarn Bunch: a yarn segment not over 6 mm in length that shows abrupt increasein diameter caused by more fibers matted in this particular place Method: yarn wound on hylam black boards wound for fixed wraps per inch asper count compared with standard reference boards. Grades: Above A to below D - The imperfections increase from Grade Aand the maximum in grade D. Average index of five boards of fivegraders. 2. Yarn Evenness: Unevenness: Variation in the linear density of a continuous strand or of a portion of astrand. Apparatus: UsterEvenness Tester Principle: Difference in the capacitance variation. Lower the Count lower theImperfections. One km of yarn is run through two capacitance platedat specific speed (fixed as per the count). The capacitance variationis integrated and expressed as % unevenness (U%). Theimperfections are counted and are reported per kilometer. 3. Linier Density of Yarn: Expression of the fineness of Yarn A number indicating the mass per unit Length or the length per unit mass of Yarn Direct system: Denier, Tex (Weight Of Unit Length)

Indirect System (Units of Lengths) per (Units of weights) 4. Count Test Apparatus Wrap reel Balance 120 yards of yarn / 100 meters of yarn wound in a wrap reel and weighed . From the weight, the count is calculated. 5. Single Thread Strength Testing Force Required to break a single strand of yarn of unit length Apparatus - Single thread Strength Tester RKM %Elongation 6. Lea Stength Testing Lea Breaking Strength The Force required to break one lea Unit pounds Count Strength Product Apparatus Lea Tester 7. Principles Of Tensile Testing Constant Rate of Loading: The Rate of change of Load is constant Uster Dynamat Constant rate of Traverse: The pulling clamp moves at a constant rate Lea Pendulum tester Constant rate of Extension:Rate Of change of Specimen length is constant Statmat 8. Twist Testing Direction Twist S Twist: When Held in vertical position, the spiral confirm in slope to the centralposition of the letter S Z Twist: When Held in vertical position, the spiral confirm in slope to the centralposition of the letter Z No of Turns (Twists) per Unit length Single Twist Double Twist Twist Multiplier Apparatus: Twist Tester Direct Method Indirect Method 7.9. Analysis Of Cloth Sample: On analysing a sample of cloth made from cotton; rayon, silk or flax with view of itsreproduction produced thus: -1. Record whether a fabric is in the grey or the finished state.2. Determine which threads constitute warp and which weft.3. If in grey, test for the presence of size material by staining with iodine, when thestarch in the size warp turns deep blue in colour, the weft being

unaffected.4. Examine for direction of spinning twist in the yarns, and also if either set of threads istwo-fold yarn. If crepe yarns have been used it may be necessary to test for amountof twist present.5. Count the ends and picks per inch in the fabric. If more than 2 warps or wefts areused, find the number per inch of each yarn type used.6. Test the yarns for Regain i.e. how much longer they are out of the cloth than thelength of the sample from which they were abstracted. By this means we canestimate the length of warp required to give the length to cloth and from the weftregain we can estimate the length in Reed or length of each pick of weft. In weavingordinary classes 10% of cotton goods warp regain between 4% and according to thestructure, while the weft regain is usually about 5%. These figures apply to greycloths only. In finished goods, the regain will differ according to the nature of thefinished applied. Very often the length of the cloth is increased and its width reducedon finishing, hence the warp regain may be as low as 1% to 4% while the weft regainmay be 8% to 10 %. Rigmel finished and Sanforising are finishing processes inwhich the fabric is pre-shrunk both in warp and weft directions, the advantage beingthat the fabric, when made into a garment, will retain its shape: it will not shrink in thelaundering. When analysing these materials regains of 8% to 10% will probably befound in both warp and weft.7. Test the yarns for counts of warp and weft (The count of the yarn is the number oflength units required to weight on gain). In a grey sample the warp will probably besized yarn and the count recorded will be the sized count. This should be correctedby making a second test after thoroughly washing the fabric to remove all size and filling materials. If the sample is a bleached, dye, or printed cloth, the counts of warpand weft will be affected counts test then made, allowing about 5% in bleached count= 20s grey count: 38s bleached = 36s grey count.8. Analyse the sample for weave details i.e. whether plain, twill, satin, or some otherweave, and proceed to develop the draft and peg plan when necessary.9. When analysing the sample containing rayon yarns, it is important to test for type ofrayon i.e. Viscose, Cuprammonium or Cellulose Acetate, i.e. number of filamentscomprising the rayon thread must be countered and the yarn exactly matched toobtain true reproduction of the sample. If the fabric is a coloured woven material,such as a poplin shirting or a zephyr check, the warp and weft patterns must beabstracted.For the ordinary kinds of cotton fabrics the contraction during weaving makes thecloth stand about 4 ends per inch closer in the cloth than in the reed and there is a gain ofabout 2 picks per inch from the loom to the warehouse table. Thus if a cloth is required tothe following dimensions: 36 inch wide, 120 yards long, 72 ends / 66 picks per inch, 34swarp, 30s weft, plain weave the making particulars would be : warp length 126 yards : endsper inch in reed, 68 : pick wheel on loom, 64 : pure warp ends 36 x 72 = 2592 plusselvedge allowance say 30 extra ends = 2622 ends width in reed 38.2 in.When estimating the grey or loom particulars to reproduce a given finished sample ofcloth, experience in the handling of that type of cloth, both in the grey and finished states, isnecessary. No general rule can be laid down to cover all classes of goods, carefulmeasurement of regains will, in most cases, be of great assistance in this work.

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