Jool Cast:

*Easy- to-BuNd *Expondable

1 Get Perfect Cuts Every Ti1

- -

January 2003
HER

--ITOR ASSOCIATE EDITORS

CONTRIBUTING EDITOR ART DIRECTOR SR. GRAPHIC DESIGNER

SENIOR ILLUSTRATORS

DonaldB. Peschke Terry J. Strohman Bryan Nelson Vincent Ancona Phil Huber Chri~ten~en KLXt S C ~ U ~ Z Roger Reiland Mark Higdon

Cutoffs
think ifs natural forwoodworkers to be impressed by big, heavyduty machinery. I've certainly spent a fak share of time wishing for a more powerful table saw or a bigger jointer. If you have the space (and the money), large tools like these can be a great asset in the shop. But for many woodworkers, myself included, shop space is a precious commodity. S a I'm always looking for new ways to make my existing tools work more efficiently. Take a power miter saw for example. Ifs compact, portable, and makes quick work of cutting long workpieces to finished length. So it makes sense to stretch its capabilities by providing support for long pieces. And we've done that in the past. (In issue No. 58 we featured a shopbuilt support system.) But what about small pieces? Eke those little pieces of molding that are a pain to hold in place while cutling. At the same time you have to make sure your are out of harm's O ~ . D B V fingers . M M ; way. Or how about when you need to t r i m a little bit off the end of a workpiece? As you make the cut, you

.PECULWBUCAIIQII.

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YUL ORDBR

tense up, hoping the saw blade won't grab the small cutoff and fling it across the shop. So how do you cut small pieces safely and accurately? On page 8 we've come up with one way to do it - a unique table and fence system for your miter saw. With this accessory you can safely hold small workpieces in place. And with an adjustable fence and a zero clearance base, tearout on the back side of the workpiece is virtually eliminated. Ifs a small project that makes ab i g improvement to the miter saw. We've made some "big improvements" to a couple of other tools in this issue as well. F i t there's the lathe stand on page 14. It's designed to provide plenty of storage for minilathe tools and accessories. (It will also hold many full-size lathes, if you have one of these.) Finally, be sure to check out the rotary tool storage case on page 26. We've solved the "big" problem of storing lots of small accessories.

a
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OpsmtiansDirec2arBobBaker. Cmfor?le7S#vice Mgr:JeMie

Enos. Wa?ahouse$upr:NaneyJohnpan.BuaerLbbJones-

Admi*. Asst: Nancy D o m y S7 C u t , Sm. Rql8.: Tammy Tmkenbrod,hCax,DebmahRieh,ApfiRevell. C u t Seru Reps.: Vslene JO ~ j m ~ a r ~w~ul~ulha:~y~viacarey ul.

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ShopNo~@tISSNlW-9696)~9pubhshedbunmthly(Jan ,Mar& Nov) by A w t Home Publlshng,22W Grand, May. J a b Sept , ..-.n e a h r n n ~ a, i \ n \ * , i .

Visit other ShopNotes subscribers' workshops and see photos of the shop project8 they've built. It's dl online at Woodworldng Shop T a m onl 3h.qN& web site: ,
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PRINTED 1NU.S.A

No. 67

Features
Miter 5aw Table & Fence
Finally, a better way to cut smallpieces on a miter saw. This shop-made accessory fits over the saw and makes cutting small, hard-to-hold pieces easy, accurate, and safe.

M i t e r Saw lbble & Fence p a g z

1 0 "Must Have" Router Bits

12

You don't need a drawer full of router bits to build great woodworking projects. We 'brofle" ten bits that willallowyou to accompllsh just about any routing task you'll face.

Mini-Lathe Stand

14

Turn yow mini-lathe into a full-fledged turning center This stand has evemhing you need- it's rock solid, easy to build, and provides storage for all your turning tools andaccessories. Plus, you can easily move it anywhere in the shop.

page 1%

Miter 5aw Quick 7ips & Simple J i g s 22

It's often the iittle things that help you get the most out of a tool. With a few tips and jigs, you'll be turning to your miter saw more often for more of your woodworking needs.

Rotary Tool 5torage Case

26

A rotary tool is a handy item to have, but it can be a real challenge to keep track of its accessories. This wall-mounted storage case organizes and stores it all -yet its convenient size makes it easy to carry to right where you need it, whether it's in the shop or around the house.

Departments
Readers' Tips Shop Talk Tool Chest

4
32

Mini-Lathe Stand

page 14

shop-tested tips to solve common woodworking problems.

Learn what's new in construction materials. In this issue, we talk about the changing world of pressure-treated lumber.

34

The final look of a project "hinges" on adding the hardware. We feature a set of special bits that willmake installing hinges easy by drilling perfectly centered screw holes.

5ources
No. 67
ShopNotes

35
Tool Stomge Case page 26

Mail-order sources and supplies to help you complete the projects featured in this issue.

TIPS

&

T E C H N I Q U E S

Readers' Tips
Multi-Level Work Table
SCREW AND GLUE PARTS TOGETHER

C.

w While working on projects in my shop, I've found that one size doesn't fit all when when it comes to tables for gluing up and assembling projeds. So I came up with this sturdy, convertible work table. As you can see in the drawings, the table can be set at three different heights. When upright, the table is 3 5 " high. Turn the table on its side for 15"- or 2 1 " - h i g h work surfaces. The tables are pretty easy to build out of "twoby" stock. To make a

worktable you'll need four lengths each of 341/4': 171/411 and ll1/4I1. After aitthg the pieces to length, make two frames by g l and ~ screwingthe 111/4" and 17'/4" pieces together as you see in theillushation to the left. Next, attach the 34l/4I1long legs to the frames, as in the detail. All that's left is to seta sheet of plywood over the two tables to form the work surface. Emnzette Carrol

Hampton, Gempa

TURN IT AGAIN TO ITS SHORT SIDE,

ANDYOU'LL H A M A IS"-HIGH ASSEMBLY TABLE

BHORT ASSEMBLY TABLE

Dipped Handles
I've found that stamped wrenches x e d for changing table saw blades nd routers bits are too thin and uncomfortableto grip. I was inspired by a hammer I made in hjgh school shop class that used rope and liquid rubber to make a handle. The k s t step is to cover the handles with rope. (You may need to use a thinner twine for wrapping router wrenches so that they can still pass by each otherwhile changing bits.) I used hot glue to keep the rope from slipping off the handle, as you can seein the lower photo. The trickis to apply a small amount of glue at a time so that it doesn't harden before you finish wrapping the handle. after wrapping the handle, simply dunk the handle in a liquid rubber dip that% available at most hardware stores, as you can see in the far left photo. It only takes a few minutes for the rubber ta dry and the wrench is ready to use. Ene Johmon Edgewood, Kentucky

Sign up to receive afreeshootio bv email eveG week.

To shim deep hinge mortis--, Bob Britzke of Eureka Springs, AR uses 1/64' model airplane plywood, available at hobby stores.

, , , , , ,

, ,eading, PA mounted an inexpensive clrp for sunglasses on his shop wall to keep his safety glasses close at hand.

,. .,

A Marty Rosen of Venice, FL

organizes his sheet sandpaper in hanging folders in a plastic file box from an office supply store.

Bench Vise Helper

Whenever I clamp a wide panel or To make the vise helper, start by long board on edge to my work- ripping two 36"-long uprights to bench for sanding or planing, I need width from 3h1'-thickhardwood. I a way to support the other end. So I glued two narrow spacers between built this simple bench vise helper, them to create a consistent 5~6''-wide as shown in the photos to the right slot, as you can see in detail 'b.' Its easy to make and allows me to The next thing to do is cut a pair of & clamp panels up to three feet wide. feet to shape. Then cut a dado in each foot sized to hold the upright and glue the feet in place. The last thing to make is a rest for WORKPIECE REST the workpiece. I cut the rest and a mounting plate to size 6rst and glued them together. Next, two shoulder pieces are cut and glued to the rest and the mounting plate to keep it parallel to the floor. I used a carriage bolt and star knob to secure the rest vou can see in detail 'a,' in . olace. .as . Y MOUNTING PLATE E d ~ Hacklema-h (2" x 3W] Omaha, Nebrash

7 I

Ifyou have a unique shop tip, we'd like to consider featuringit inone or more of our print or electronic publications. Well pay up td $200 for a tip we publish. Just write down the tip and mail it to ShopNotes, Attn.: Readers' Tips, 2200 Grand Ave., Des Moines, IA 50312.01 FAX it to 515282-6741, or send us ar email at shopnotes@shopnotes.com Please include your name, address, and daytime phone number in case we
hnve nnv mlrstitiona

as soon as it's cut the piematehes-d@- and goes shoothg past your ear. The problem is that the part cufisjusttoo small to hold on to Pafely. T o stohre tbis pabI.m, 1 h i t
thistaMemdf-fence.Ithmetouseagairof u&te hoIdaom that are made up af muttiple "finger%." ntey wiap around the war^ and hold it steady, keepingyow hands d l y out of the way.

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d Way

*system

k p is

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out is

ODE EW ,.-.,. LL DIIv.-..,. 3N5: l6"O x m * x llnH

aulcltw SET UP FOR

ADJUSTABLE FENCE 5LIDES UP CLOSE TO THE BLADE T O PREVENT WAR OUT

IDENTICALCUTS WITH STOP BLOCK MOUNED TOT-TRACK

HOLD-DOWN "FINGERS" CONFORM TOTHE SHAPE OF THE MATERIAL BEING CUT

TABLE AND SAW ATTACH T O AN MDF BALFOR ROCK-SOLID CUTS EVER( TIME

REPLACEABLE MDF INSERT GIVESYOU A NEW CUTTING SURFACE IN MINUTES

N m : DlMENSiONSARE FOR DEWALT

MITER SAW AND MAY NEED T O BE ADAPTED T O YOUR SAW

(6) # 0 x 1%" Fh Woodscrews

Baes
A Bottom B Caps (2) G Insert D Runners (2) E Feet (2) F Legs (2) G Base

0 (rgh.) x 30 j/4 MDF 0 (rgh.) x B3/s- 3/4 MDF 0 x 13% - j/4 MDF 3 / 4 x % -0% 1 % x B - 3 4 MDF 41%x 9 1 4 - 1'1~ MDF 16 x 2 8 3/4 MDF

Fence 6; Ac~easodea
H Fences (2) 1 Inner Fingers (20) J Outer Fingers (2) K Stop Block Leg L Exosnsion

%s"x 6"Carriage Bolts # 8 x 2" Fh Woodscrews *&6"%Nuts (4) %6"x l'/z" 5 t a r Knobs (4) %e"x l'/z" Hex Bolts (13) %.a" Washers (2) %Track. 12" Long (0) # 6 x %"Fh Woodscrews (5) %6" Star Knobs 5&6"x 2%'' Flange Bolts (2) 13/4" Flange Bolt ( I ) %6"~
(2)

(4) (0)

Note; A hardware klt. not including the MDF and hardwood, i s availablsfmm ShopNotPs Pmject Supplies. See sources on page 35 for
ordering information.

No. 67

la ble
The main part of this miter saw system is the table. It bas two wings on each end and a half-round center section sized to fit around the table of the miter saw, as in Figure 1. It's made up of two layers of MDF and straddles the saw with two legs that connect the table to a base. Although there's nothing complicated about making this system, more than likely youll need to modify the dimensionsfor your saw. (This one is designed for a DeWalt DW705.) But don't worry, I11 give you some tips to help you do this. Bottom - The drst step in building the table is to cut a bottmn (A, from MDF to fmallength and rough width (at least 8"), as in Fi -m e 2. The easiest wav I found to do determine t h e width is to measure from the metal fence of the saw to the end of the blade insert, as shown in F i e 2a Next I cut two caps (B1 and glued them to the ends of the bottom. G ) can be cut to fit Then an insert ( between the two caps. If you take a look at Figure 1,you cansee that the insert isn't glued down. That% because its designed to be replaced as it gets chewed up from use. Instead, I used screws to hold it in place, being careful to locate the
WWDSCREW

T-NUTB UNDER BABE

screws away from any areas where the blade might pass. With the basic table complete, the next thmg tc do is cut dadoes for the legs, like you see ip Figure 3a. The idea here is to locate the dadoes so that your saw will be able to slide easily between the legs of the table. To cut the dadoes, I attached an auxiliary fence to the miter gauge to support the workpiece and used the rip fence as a stop block. The dadoes are sized to hold two layers of WF, as in Figure 3a. A f t e r makjngthedrst

N m : ALL PIECE5
ARE W+" MDF

NOm YOUR TABLE PROFILE

MAY BE DIFFERENT FROM

END OF INSERT

THE ONE SHOWN HERE

dado, flip the pieces end for end and cut the second dado. The other groove youll need to cut is for the fence runners.This is just a %"-wide groove cut in the cap pieces. However I didn't want to cut a groove in the insert, so I repkced it with a spacer that is attached to the bottom with carpet tape, as you can see inFigUre 3.The spacer supports the table as it passes through the dado blade. After the groove is cut, screwthe insert back in placebefore cutting the profile. F'rofite -The trickiest part about making the table is figuring out t h e profile. I wanted as large a work surh e as possible and still be able to read the angle gauge on the saw. In most cases the technique used earlier to measure the overall width of the bottom should also work a s the radius of the profile. However, since a l l saws are merent, you may need to reduce the radius a little in order to still read the angle gauge. Once you determine the radius, you can lay out the protile on the table, cut it out to rough size on the hand saw, and then sand it smooth, as you can see in Figure 4. With the table cut to shape, the next step is to cut hardwood runnen (Dlto size to fit the grooves cut in

ShopNotes

No. 67

CUT PROFILE TO ROUGH SHAPE THEN SAND

the table. The rnnners will guide the adjustable fences t h a twill be added later. Then glue theminplace,just as you see in Figwe 5. After the glue dried, I drilled a hole through each runner and the base for a camage bolt thatwill hold down each fence, as in Figure 5a. Once the holes are drilled, flip t h e base over to drill the counterbores .for the carriage bolt heads, cent e r i n gthem on the existing holes, as Flgure Sb shows. Legs & Feet - All that's left to do on the table is to make the legs and feet that support the table. The fvst step is to cut thefeet (El to size from Q/4"MDF. Then I drilled a holein both ends of each foot in order to mount

the table to the base. The next step is to make the legs. Here again the k a l height of the legs depends on your saw. The idea here is t h a t the table should sit M y on the saw. Set the table on the saw and place a foot next to t h e saw base. Then measure from the top of the foot to the bottom of the dado in the table, as in F i e 6% With the measurement in hand, you can make the legs. Each leg (F) is made up of two pieces of MDF that are glued together and cut to k a l size. Screw the feet to the legs and then glue the legs in the dadoes, as you cansee in Figure 6. Base -Now that the table is complete, you can cut a large base (G)

from MnF. There's nothing special about the base, it just has to be long enoughfor the table and wide (deep) enough to support the saw. After cutting the base to size, I set the saw in place to mark the location of the mounting holes. Then I set the table on the base, m a w sure that the table was Q h t up against the metal fence of the saw. Next, mark mounting holesfor the table and drill cannterbored shank holes for T-nuts that anchor the table and saw. Fially, after install@ t h e T-nuts in the base, you can attach the saw with washers and hex bolts. The table mounts with washers and kmbs, as you can see in F i e 6, so that it can be easily removed.
e

UPSIDE-DOWN

I
No. 67
ShopNotes

T-NUT

WOODSCREW

L Hold-Downs and Stop Block. The

hold-downs and stop block make cutttng safer and more accurate

the table complete, I turned my attention to the fence system. The adjustable fences along with the hold-downsand stop block are really what make this system so effective. As you can see in the photo, the fences can be set light next to the blade so they fully support the stock being cut, preventing chip out. There's also a pair of hold-downs mounted in a T-track in the fence that keep the workpiece from flying across the shop after its cut Although the fencesaren't hard to make, youll have to keep track of them because they are mirror images and not identical. I labeled them ' l e v and "right" and laid out the cuts directly on the pieces. Each fence (HI is glued up from .two 3/a"-thick hardwood blanks, as 5.,shown in F i e 8. But before gluing ':them together, you'll need to make a

slot for the carriage bolt to pass through. To create the slot, I cut a dado in each half and then glued the two pieces together, just as you see in Figures 8 and 8a. Then clean up any glue squeeze out with a chisel. Once the pieces are glued together, the next step is to cut two grooves in each fence. I f you'll look at F i e 8c, youll see that the fust groove is simply sized to fit aT-track used to hold the stopblock and holddowns that will be added later. The other groove lets the fence slide along the runner in the table. What you are looking for is a snug but smooth sliding f i t So you may

need to make a second pass over the dado blade. Just be sure to keep the same face of the fence against the rip fence to keep them aligned. Bevel - At this point the fences are nearly ikished. A l l that remains is to bevel the inside edge and cut a notch in the top to provide clearance for the blade guard, as in F i e 9. With the dado blade still in the table saw, I cut an angled notch in the top of each fence. You can use your miter gauge when making this notch. The first cut defines the

I)

1
NOTE:
LEFT FENCE SHOWN

FENCE I S MADE FROM TWO %"THICKBLANKS

NOTE:

SmF OF THE BLADE

No. 67

"shoulder." Then I removed the rest of the waste, as in Figure 9 a . The e o n l y t h i different about cutting a notch on the other fence is that you need to move the miter gauge to the other side of the blade and reposition the angle on the miter gauge. After cutting the notches, reinstall the regular blade in the table saw and miter the inside edge of each fence, as indicated in F i e 10. finally, I cut some aluminum Ttrack to fit in the groove in the face of the fence using a hack saw. I mitered one end to match the beveled notch and fled the ends smooth. Assembly -The fence attaches to the table by slipping it over the carriage bolt and securing it with a washer and star knob, as indicated in Flgures 7 and 7a. Although you could stop right here and use the table as it is, you can make it work a lot harder by adding these next two parts.

# If m.

you take a close look at the hold- on the blank with a belt sander. Next, downs Figure 11, youll see that I rounded the ends to soften the they're made up of separate fingers. sharp edges, as in F i e 12b. The last thing to do before ripping The thin innerfingem (I) allow the holddown to conform to the shape the 6ngers apart is to drill a hole for of the material being cut You can a flange bolt that connects the holdalso see that the outer finger is downs to the fence. To support the tbicker, which provides stab'dty so workpiece while drilling, I clamped r i l lpress. the thinner ones won't spread apart an auxiliaryfence to the d The fingers can now be ripped to as they wrap around the workpiece. I found it easiest to shape the h - finalwidth. It's a good idea to install a gem on an oversize blank. Then the zeroclearance insert in the table saw blank can be cut to shape on the so the parts won't fall through. Then band saw, or you can sand the profle set the auxiliaryripfenceand cutthe

u)

h g e r s using a push block, as in F i e 12. To attach the holddowns to the fence, simply slip the h g e r s on a flange bolt with the wide h e r on the outside. Next, slide the head of the bolt in the T-track and tighten it with a washer and star knob. The stop block lets you quickly set up to cut multiple parts to the same length. As you can see in Figure 13, it consists of iwo pieces - a leg and an extension. The long extension on the stop block allows you to use it along with the holddowns, as in the photo on the opposite page. To make the stop block, fvst cut the leg (lito 6nal size f?om3/4"-thick hardwood. Then drill a mounting hole for a flange bolt (Figure 13). The atension (W for the stop block is cut to the same shape as the holddown hgers, but its 3'4"tbick. After cutting it to shape, it can be screwed to the leg. All thafs left is to conned the stop block to the fence with a flange bolt, washer, and starknob, as shown in Figure 13a. &

CBrlWFh
WOODSCREW

No. 67

pen any woodworking cat- here is a quick glance at ten of the alog, and you are likely to router bits that we find the most find several pages full of router bits. useful in our shop. The bits aren't in any particular The number of profles available can be overwhelming. But how do order, but I've split them into two you separate the "must have" bits groups. In the fust group are bits from the not-senecessary ones? To that we use all the time. These bits help you out with that decision, have a place in every shop. The bits

in the second group are ones that we also use quite often, but I would probably buy them only as needed.

GAOUP ONE
1. Straight Bit - Straight bits are the utility players in your team of router bits. They can be used for routing grooves, dadoes, slots, rab bets, and tenons. With a simple j i g , you can even use them for cutting box joints or hgerjoints. Straight bits come in several different sizes (diameters). 1 find the l/a" and '12" diameters to be the most usefuL If you need to make a groove wider than l/zl! just do it in two passes. This allows you to custom fit the groove to match the thickness of the mating workpiece. 2. Flush T h Bit -Aflush trim bit is just a straighthit with a bearing mounted on the end. The bearing rides against the edge of the workpiece while the bit trims a second piece flush with the first

2. Flush Trim B i t

3. ~oundover Bit

4.~&mfer
BEt
12

&Rabbeting
Bit
ShopNotes

No. 67

Q)t

I use my flush trim bit for obvious tasks like trimming plastic laminate or hardwood edging on plywood. But I a h use it whenever I glue up a workpiece with multiple layers. Just cutthe fust layer to exact size. Then cut the second layer r i m it flush W t l y oversize and t after gluing the two layerstogether. 3. Round-Over - Roundover bits are great for creating a soft, rounded profile on the edge of a workpiece. They have a bearing on the end so they can be used in a band-held router. But by mountiog them in a router table and using the fence as a b e e surface, you can round over both sides of a worGece to create a round profile. Or create a ''bullnose" profile by lowering the bit slightly to use just a portion of the cutting radius. Round-over bits are available in a variety of sizes. I probably use the %I1 and 3/# sizes the most o h . As you need them, you might want to add the lh": I/+: and 3/8 sizes as well. 4. Chamfer Bit Another bit that is handy for relieving the edges of aworkpieceis a c b m k r bit S i you canvary the size of the chamfer by simply raising or lowering the bit, you can get by with just one size of bit. And although chamfer bits are available with diffetent angles for special purposes, the only one I really use is a 45" chamfer bit 5. Rabbeting Bit A rabbeting bit is one of those bits that, after you try it, you'll wander how you got along for so long without one. Although you can use a sfraigbt bit and a fence to create rabbets, a rab beting bit makes the job so much tiimpler.,Ithas a benrioy on the end of the bit that automatidly controls the width of the rabbet And by

changing the bearing you can cut rabbets of different widths.

TWO
6. Dovetail Bit - A dovetail bit is a necessity for routing halfblind dovetails with a jig. But even if you don't own a dovetail fig, you can use a dovetail bit along with a fence or in the router table to create slidbg dovetail joints. 7. Patternmaker's Bit-This bit is a close cousin of the flush trim bit The differenceis that the bearing is mounted on the shank of the bit rather than onthe end. I use a pattemmakets bit for routingwithtemplates(usuallywhen making multiple, identical parts). After cutting your workpiece to approximate size,just carpet tape the template to the top. The bearing follows the profile of the template while the b i t ttimstheworkpiece flush. 8. Cove B i t -A cove b i t is the reverse image of a roundover bit Insteadof creating arounded edge, it creates a concave profile. I use cove bits allt h etime whenmaking built-up

moldings for picture frames or furniture projwts. L&e round-over bits, cove bits come in different sizes, so you'Ilprobablywantatleastacouple. 9. Ogee Bit -Jf$ou reaEywantto dress up a project, ogee bits are one way to do it quicklyand easily.They can add style and elegance to an 0therwise plain-lookingproject While there are different types of ogee bits (Roman, classical, reverse ogee), I iind that I use the Roman ogee more than the others. Even so, ifs best to buy ogee bits as you need them so you can be sure of g e m a profile that suits the project athand. 10. Slot-Cutting Bit -This last bit i s one you might not expedto see in a list of top ten router bits. But I iind a slot-cutbg bit to be useful for routing slots for splines or panels. W~th a little ingenuiw, you can even use a router and slotcutting bit as a substitutefor a biscuit idinex Slotatijngbits areavailableinkao or three sizes to cut slots of different widths. And like rabbeting bii, you can use different sizes of bearings to vary the depth of the slot &

Shank S h .Most router brts are available in either 'h" or l/qU shanks, The Wshank 1 s stronger and lass hkely to vfbrate w chatter dur~ng heavy cuts

TOP 15 MADE UP OF THREE LAYERS OF MDF FOR MASS

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X Urge 5Mf Edgitv (2) Y small Shelf EWng (z1

Drawers 1X. Sh~Iveu

L Sm, Dnm FrtsLBazke M S M .& ' n u r , Gides (4) l i l@ d P g0hmkt) (B) ? i F d e Ftwnte (2)

;lc4 54. Z mfle(El x AA 5*n= (2.) 5 6 Emelfl)

,-

Door

No. 67

ShopNotes

15

Case
DRILL COUNTERSU

(lW~49M")

TOP

---rn

FRQN
-

I
4

t =/,I.

NOTE: SIZE DADOES

AND RABBETS TO FIT MDF

#8~2'Fh SCREW

NOTE: ALL PIECES

ARE W MDF

#8xzuFh' SHEET METAL SCREW

S i c e this stand is for a benchtop your stand, youmightwant to try setlathe, we designed it at an average tingupyourlathe at differentheights workbench height - 34". This to see which is the most comfortable height seems just about right for me for you. Then make any adjustments (and my back). I can see what I'm to the plans accordingly doing without having to stoop over Case - The case of the stand is the lathe. But acouple of people here built out of 3/4" medium-densityfiberfelt that the stand was a little on the board (MDF). I started by cutting a l l tall side. So before you start building the pieces to the dimensions shown

# 8 x 2" Fh SHEETMETAL SCREW

in Figure 1. Youll need a @ and bottom (A), two sules (B),a vwtzcal divider (C) and large and m l l E) honxontal dzuiders (D, Dado and rabbetjoints are used to lock the case pieces together like a giant wooden puzzle. This helps to keep the stand rigid and prevent it from racking. But in order for everything to fit properly, you need to accurately lay out and cut the dadoes and rabbets (Figures la and lc). Before assembling the case, I drilled some shelf pin holes in the sides and vertical divider, as shown in F i e lb. ( used I a fix bit and a handy template to drill these holes, see page 34.) I also drilled four countersunk holes in the top panel of the case. These are for the screws that will be used later to attach the layered top of the lathe stand. Once this is done, you can glue and screw the case together F i e 1). To help stiffen the case even more, I flipped it over and added a couple of hardwood stretchers (F) to the bottom, as shown in F i e 2. These are cut to fit between the two sides and then screwed in place. After you've done this, you can add

ShopNotes

No. 67

I$

the casters and then turn the case right-side-up again to work on the side panels and the top. Side Panels - If you take a look at Figure 3, youll see that I added an extra side panel of MDF to each end of the case. These side panels (G) help to give the case extra strength and rigidity. The side panels are the same bsx1WFh SHEET height as the sides of the case, but METAL SCREW they're slightly wider. There's a reason for this. If vou take a look at Figure 3a, youll see that the side panels extend beyond the back edge of the case by l/pl1to meate a rab beted opening for a hardboard back And they also extend beyond the front edge of the case by '/a'' to create a shadow line @gure 3b). Before the sidepanelsare added to the case, I rounded over some of the edges. On the outer face of each top to be heavy and solid, so I in Figure 4. Then I rounded over all panel, rout a l/s" roundover on the made it out of three layers (I) of the edges. Before screwing the top front, back, and bottom edges. Then MDF ( F i e 4). This will give the to the case, you'll need to add some round over the frontedge only of the stand plenty of mass to help absorb T-nuts for mounting your lathe. The innerhce of each panel. After you've any vibrations from the lathe. easiest way to do this is to set the done this, the side panels can be To make the top, I started by lathe on the top and use it as a temattached to the case with screws and cutting the fist layer to exact size. plate to mark out the Then I cut the second layer slightly hole locations. Then finish washers. Back - Once the side panels are oversize. After gluing the two just drill counterbored in place, you can cut a back (H) for layers together, 1 trimmed the holes for the T-nuts and the case out of l/4I1 hardboard. This second layer flush with the first, install them in the back is sized to fit between the two using a router and flush trim bit underside of the top. To attach the top, I side panels and is then simply Then I just repeated this process with the third layer of MDF. screwed in place F i r e 3). placed it on the case and To complete the top, I added some centered it from sideto Top -The last major component of the case is the top. I wanted the hardwood edging (J, K), as shown side and front-twback. Then using an awl, I marked the locations of 51DE EDGING BACK EDGING (2W x 17h"- 5/4"-THICK the screw holes on the (Z1&' x 54" -%"-THICK H A R D W O O D STOCK) HARDWOOD STOCK) underside of the top. After drilling pilot holes in the top, you can attach it to the case with screws. You'll need a stnbby screwdriver here since there isn't much clearance. Levelers -Although the stand is mounted on casters. the last thing you want when using a lathe is for the stand to scoot around the floor of your shop. So I attached a pair of adjustable leg levelers to each end of the stand. By using the screw mechanism in the leg levelers, you can lift the lathe stand off the casters, see photo above.

Cast

id

An wrench ,s all you need to level the stand and ralse the casters up off the floor

ShopNotes

17

A Tool Sorage.

The two smaller drawers pull out to become a pair of racks' handy

A Gluing Blocks. To
make the gluing blocks for the corners of the drawers, just rip a beveled piece from the edge of a wider piece of stock.
~d

With the basic structure of the lathe stand complete, you can start making the drawers and shelves that fit inside it. There are three drawerr. in the stand -a large drawer on the left and two smaller drawers on the right to hold an assortment of turning tools. I made these iirst As yon can see in Figure 5, the drawers for the turning tools are a little unusual. They're built like ordinary drawers, but they don't have any bottoms. The idea here is that you can leave the drawer open while you are turning and any chips that land inside will simply fall through to the floor. A customfitted tool rack inside each drawer holds your turning tools in place and makes it easy to switch back and forth between tools. To make the tool drawers, I cut pieces for the fronts and backs (L) and the sides (Mi to size from '/zl" thick stock. As you can see in Figure 5a, the drawer pieces are joined with locking rabbet joints. After you've cut all these joints, you can glue up the drawers. TOOL UPP PORTS Because these drawers don't ARE %-THICK HARDWOOD: have any bottoms, I decided to add ER STRIP5 ARE 'A" HARDBOARD some gluing bbcks (N) to help strengthen the joints. These are nothing more than triangleshaped @gure 5b). This allows you to pull screwed in place, as you see in blocks ripped from the edge of a each drawer all the way open so that Figures 5 and 5c. Then a pull is long piece of stock, as shown in the you have quick access to any tool in mounted to the front of each drawer. margin drawing at left They're the drawer whiie you are turning. Tool Racks - Each drawer is simply glued in place in each False Fronts - Once the drawers fitted with an adjustable tool rack. corner of the drawers. aremountedinthestand,youcanadd These racks are made up of two The drawers are mounted on fnll- a falsefront (0) to each one. These parts F i e 6). A pair of tool sup extension, metal drawer slides are cut from hardwood stock and ports cradles the tools. These slip

()

18
,

-,.

~- -. . .
,,

; .

,.

..

-= .:.

ShopNotes

No. 67

i ' i > , < . . ; .

into notches that are cut into a couple of divider strips mounted to the front and back of each drawer. This allows you to move the tool supports closer together to accommodate shorter "mini" turning tools. I made the dividm &ips (P) fist. These are just strips of '/a" hardboard. As you cau see in F i e 6a, each one is tpitered on the ends to allow it to fit over the gluing blocks in the corners of the drawer. Then I cut a row of evenly-spaced, '/4"-wide notches along the face of each strip. Once this is done, the strips can be glued to the front and back of each drawer. The tool supports (Q) are made from 3/a1'-thickhardwood stock A small tenon is cut on each end, as you can see in Figures 6 and 6a. Youll need to size these tenons to fit the notches in the divider strips. Once you've done this, you can of the supports with a router. Then start to lay out the notches in the the tool supports can be slid into place in the drawers. supports for your turning tools. Large Drawer - After building I decided to customjze the tool @ supports so that each turning tool the smaller tool drawers, the large has its own space. But don't worry drawer shonldn't bring any sur- this isn't as complicated as it prises. As you can see by looking at might sound. On one of the sup Figure 7, its constsuction is identical ports, I cut five identical, U-shaped to the other two drawers. The only nntrhes fnr the tool handles. Then difference (other than its size) is the

fact that it has a hardboard bottom. And since this bottom helps to strengthen the drawer, you don't have to bother with the gluing blocks in the comers. Shelves - J n addition to the drawers, the lathe stand also features a couple of shelves (Figure 8). These are great for storing turning blanks or accessoriesthat are too b i g to fit in the drawer above. Aside from their length, these shelves CC: W) are identical. Each one starts off as a piece of MDF. To help stiffen and strengthen the shelves, hardwood edging is added to the front and back edges. In order to attach the edging, I cut a rabbet along the kont and back edges of each shelf to create a tongue, as you see in P i e 8a. The shelf edging (X, Y) is just a few pieces of hardwood with roundovers routed along the top and bottom edges, as shown in Figure 8% I attached the edging by cutting a groove on the inside face of each piece to match the tongues cut on the shelves. Then just glue the edging in place.

No. 67

ShopNotes

Door
T o completethelathe stand, I addeda door to the lower right-hand storage area. If you are going to keep a grinder or other tool in this compart ment, the door w i l lhelp to keep dus andwoodchipsfrorngetting inside. As you can see in F i r e 10, tht door is built using frame and pane construction. I starting by c u m the door ratls (2) and door stzle. (A& to size from 3/4"-thick hard wood. Then a centered groove for : hardboard panel is cut on the insidt adge of each door piece (Figure 11). .Ber this is done, stub tenons are cut on the ends of the rails to fit in the Tooves in the stiles. Before assembling the door, I cut lor. This a door panel (BB) to size from l/4" door Keeps chips hardboard.Then you can glue up the and debns from door frame around the panel. Hardware -The door is mounted collect~ng ~nsrde the storage area to the lathe stand with a pair of butt hinges. But I ran into alittle problem when I went to the hardware store to pick out the hinges. I wanted to use nickel-plated h i i e s to match the drawer and door puUs. But all I could find were brass-plated hinges. So I wound up painting the hinges silver to match the rest of the hardware. The hinges are mortised into the edge of the door. I cut a couple of shallow notches in the door stile for the hinges (Figures 9a and 12). You
DOOR STILE

don't have to worry about mortising the h i i e s into the case, since they're just mounted directly to the surface, as shown in Figure 9h. After the door was installed in the case, I added a door pull and a magnetic catch. The pull is centered on the left-hand door stile. And the magnetic catch is located in the upper, left-hand corner of the door. After hish'mg the lathe stand, I

decided to mount a work light to the top. I picked up an inexpensive swing arm lamp at an office supply store. This type of lamp can be adjusted to shime right over the area where you are working. With the lathe stand finally complete, you can mount your lathe to the top. This is simply a matter of setting it in place and attach'mg it to the top with some hex bolts.

CUTTENON

ON END OF RAIL TO FIT GROOM

ShopNotes

No. 67

FEATURE

P R O d E C T

Dust Hood () Once the lathe stand was finished, I

began making a shopbuilt dust hood for the lathe. This hood is designed to collect the fine dust created when sanding a workpiece on the lathe (not the heavy chips from turning). The dust hood is built out of hardboard and MDF F i r e 13). I started by cutting a tnp and bottom (CC) to size from 3/411 m F . In F i e 14, you can see how I mitered the end of each piece. The next step is to cut rabbets along three edges of the top and bottom for the back and sides of the dust hood, as you see in P i e 15. There are a couple of things to be aware of here. Firsf youll need to make two different sizes (widths) of rabbets. The rabbets along the back and mitered edges should be sized to hold 'hl' hardboard pieces. But the rabbet along the short end of each piece needs to be wider to hold a piece cut from 3/4" MDF. The second thimg to keep in mmd when cutting the rabbets is that the top and bottom pieces should be mirror images of one another. In other words, the rab bets will be facing each other when the pieces are assembled. Onceyou'vecutalltherabbets,you can make the remaining oieces. The end (DD) is cut from3/a1'MDF. Ahole is drilled in the center ofthis piece for a vacuum hose, and a rabbet is cut along one edge for the back.
MITER ENDS AT 22W SACKPIECES IT IN%'-DEEP RABBETS

0 .

The hood back (EE, FF) consists of two separate pieces of hardboard. These pieces are mitered to fit in the rabbets cut in the top and bottom of the dust hood (see top view in F i e 13). Once this is done, a l l the pieces can be glued together. Then rout a small roundover on all the exposed edges of the dust hood.

-.

Post -The last step to complete the dust hood is to add a steel post so that the hood can be mounted in the tool rest base of the lathe. I simply cut a short length of 5/81'-dia.steel rod (to match the size of the hole in the tool rest base of my lathe) and filed a chamfer on one end. After drilling a 5/s"-dia hole in the bottom of the dust hood, the rod can be epoxied into the hole ( F ' i e 13a). To use the dust hood, youll need to remove the lathe tool rest from its base and turn the base arouad on the bed of the lathe. Then simply position the dust hood so it's directly beh'md the area that you're sanding, =-- :'loto below. &

AUXILIARY

~~~

--

A DostHood. ~ o o k e d upto a shop vacuum, this dust hood

does a great job of picking up the fine dust that is created while sanding a project on the lathe.

No. 67

ShopNotes

21

~ithafiw handy t$s and jigs>you make your meter Saw safe6 work harder, and cut more accurately

can

he miter saw table and fence on page 6 is a great full-featured accessory for any miter saw. But if you're looking to get better results light now, you dodt have to spend a lot of h e (or money) to do it. On the next few pages, youll see a number of quick tips and a few simplejigs for getting great results. Tune-UD ~ utius t and iies won't help much if your miter saw isn't tuned up and running smooth. So it's a good idea to take a look through your owner's manual to see what it takes to tune up your saw. For a

quick reference on the basics, take a look at the box below. One last thing. The tips and j i i shown here will come in handy whether you own a small 8" saw that only cuts miters or a large 14" sliding, compound miter sawwith all the bells and whistles.

--

ZERO-CCECUIMCE INSERT
Take a look at most miter saws and youll see an insert in the base that allows the saw blade to pass through. And its the cause of one of the b ' i t problems with most miter saws,

1Remve Sawdust 2Inspect Brushes. Lubricate P w t Points. '3 4CheckBIade 5Align . Fences. 6Adjust . Miter Bevel Setlings. 70

Clean o f any sawdust along w ~ cake1 h on pftch and resin -especially around m o v parts. ~ Check brushes for wea,: Replace them once they become shorter than what's recommended in the owner's manual for the miter saw. Oil the main pivot points on the saw fo ensure smooth operation and easy adjustment

Guard. Ughfen the blade guard tf necessary and replace any worn parts ln the iinkage.
Adlust two-part fences to ensure accurate al~gnment across the fence face. & produce accurale c ~ t s . adlust rnrer and oeve~ settings according lo the manual.

The opening in the insert that the blade passes through is usually quite a bit larger than the actual thiclmess of the blade. So there's nothing to support the edges of the workpiece when the blade cuts through. And that can cause some heavy tearout along the bottom face. One way to solve this problem is to use a zero-clearance insert. Azeroclearance insert "wraps" around the blade as it passes through the workpiece. Since the workpiece is fully supported right up to the blade, it practically eliminates any tearout along the bottom. Now, you can buy zeroclearance inserts for a number of miter saws. But you can also make your own. The first step is to start with a blank that's the same thickness as the existing insert for your saw. Unfortunately,the thickness of the insert isn't likely to match any hardboard or plywood you have around the shop So it's best to make the insertfrom apiece of hardwood thats planed to match the thickness of the existing insert This way,you can be sure the insert will be flush with the surface of the miter saw table. Once you have the blank the right thickness, you can rip it to width to

I)

No. 67

91

match the opening in the saw table. (If6 agood idea to make afew extras blanks while you're at The next step is to shape the ends of the blank to match the opening. And that's an easy task because you can use the exkting h r t as a pattern and simply trace around the ends @&me la). Then cut outside thelayoutlines on the blank and sand the ends until theinsert fitsperfectly. At this point, all that's left to do is drill a set of counterbored (or countersunk) holes forthe screwsused to hold the original insertin place. After installing the insert, creating the "ze~o clearance" is just a matter of turning the miter saw on and making a smooth, even cut.

The zer~learance insert eliminates tearout along the bottom of a workpiece. But tearout along the back of the workpiece is also a problem. Justlike in the base, tearout occurs because there's usually a large gap along the face of the fence where the blade Passes through. Besides not suppoking the workpiece, this gap can cause a small cutoff to catch on thebladeand"explodel' or"shoot"to a corner of the shop. Here again, you can solve this Problem bv makimz a reroclearance

fence, as in F i e 2. Whafs dif- height and length of the existing ferent here is that instead of fence. Tnis way, you maintain as replacing the existing fence, you much of the cutting capacity of the simply add a strip of l/4" hardboard saw as possible. thafs sized to roughlv A few stri~s of m e t tme is all it - . match the lakes to attach the fence ' T ~ I once ~II thc fence is in place, the hst cut you will crraw a zcrwlearance just like the insert in the ase of the miter saw. An added benetit is that the zero. learance opening makes it easy to ne up your cuts. All you need to do i make a s m a l l cut mark along the dge of the workpiece F I e Za). One thing to keep in mind is that rhen you change the miter setting, ie zer~learance opening win >pen"up. So be sure to replace the nce with afresh one whenever you hangetu a new miter setting. And one more tip. A zeroclearace insert and fence are sure to lake a big improvement in your uts. To improve your cuts even lore, check out the box at left. ShopNotes

No. 67

23

Ater adding a zeroclearance insert and fence, the quick tips below should provide the answers to a few common miter saw problems.

smnmm
One of the more frustrating thingabout cutting a miter is that it isn't all that unusual for it to be off just a hair. And that little bit caneasily ruin how pieces fit together. The problem is trying to adjust the miter saw table to trim a small amount off the end of the workpiece is all but impossible. To solve this, I don't adjust the miter setting. Instead,Iturn to an old deck of playing cards I keep around the shop. To change the angle slightk, I clamp a playing card (or two) along the fence and then slide the workpiece in position (Figure 3). Note: You can use just about any thin piece of material to do this. The playing card 'kicks" the workpiece out slightly, as in iogure 3% This allow you to trim a small sliver off the end. To vary the amount of material you slice 0% simply add another card or two (to remove more material) or slide the card away from the blade (to remove a little less).

r m E n E O

R E m w
spacer between the block and the workpiece. You can see this illus trated in Figure 5a. Then when you're ready to cut t h e workpiece to size, rest the spacer against the stop block and then butt the workpiece against the spacer. As you hold the workpiece in place safely on the opposite side of the blade, slide the spacer out Now you can make the cut without having to worry about the small workpiece being trapped and possibly bmding. To cut the remaining. workpieces, just repeat the process using the spacer once again to position the workpiece.

Exposed end grain on trim moldings really stands out in a room. A good way to solve this is to cut a mitered return, like you see in F i e 4% But there is one small problem. The size of the mitered return makes it all too easy for it to get chewed up by the saw blade after you make the cut. One way to handle a workpiece this smaU is to secure the piece of tsim molding to the auxiliary fence with carpet tape, as illustrated in Flgure 4. This helps keep the return from flying across the room or getting chewed up by the blade. And regardless of the size of the w ~ r ~ e cifs e ,always a good idea to make asmooth cut through the workpiece and let the saw blade come to a complete stop before raising i t

Whenever I have to cut a number of pieces to identical length, I like to use a stop block A stop block ensures that each piece is identical without having to lay out each piece and then line the cut up perfectly But cutting a number of short pieces to identical length is a challenge. Since you can't clamp a stop block at the proper position and bold the workpiece without your h g e r s being too close to the blade, it's best to change the technique sligbtly. Instead, position the stop block and clamp it in place allowing for a

Handy Jig*Although quick tips will get you through a number of problems, there are times when you might need justa little more. In the drawings at right youll see a workstation and a couple jigs that are sure to help out

WOr$KsmTIoN
The nice thing about miter saws is they're portable. But that portabiity comes at a price the saw table doesn't always provide solid support for cutting longer workpieces. A simple way to make your miter saw work 'biggef' without creating an elaborate system is to mount it to a simple workstation, as in Figure 6. The workstation starts out as a plywood base thafs sized to fit the depth of the saw. But youll want to make it about 16" longer than the width of the saw. The extra length provides space for anair of U-shaned extensions that are attached to ;he base to form a "box" on each side of the saw. The tops of the extensions are plywood, whiie the sides are 3/4"-thick hardwood to provide a solid bite for the screws that hold the pieces together. The sides are sized so that once everything is assembled, the top of the extensionsare flush with the saw 2 3 . table, as in Figure 6

CROWN MilllllNG JIG

Miter saws are great for cutting crown molding. Especially since you can often cut it so that ifs laying flat on the table. Most miters saws have settings for one or two of the common spring angles (the angle the crown tilts away from the wall). But this often involves "eye balling" the settings,which isu'tvery accurate. And it doesn't help when you have to cut crown molding that has a different spring angle. I 6nd it best to cut crown molding the "old-fashioned" way - with the moldingtippedufidedown andbackm w a r d s between the table and fence. But holding the workpiece in place securely can be a problem. To solve this, all you need to do is add a The j i g is just a plywood base with plywood base, like you see in F i e a hardwood fence screwed perpendi7. The table is sized --wide to cular to the back edge, as you can avoid cutting all the way through the see in F i e 8a. S i c e the fence table. To position the molding prop "rotates" the workpiece 909 you end erly, simply screw a hardwood stop up with the complementary angle of along the front edge of the base so the setting on the miter saw. the crown molding rests at the corConfused? Well think of it this rectangle, as illustrated in F i e 7a. way When the saw table is set to 154 the jii gives you the complementary BErOND W angle, or 75" in this case. Although it doesn't happen often, Angles like this often result in sometimes I need to cut angles well long cuts that work best on a sliding past 454 like the top of a picket for a miter saw. But in many cases, you fence, as shown in Figure 8a As you can use any type of miter saw, cutmay have expected, the solution to ting as far as possible. Then you can this problem is a shopmade j i g . complete the cut with a hand saw.& ShopNotes

No. 67

25

Rotary Tool

purchwed &rotarytool a h years ago,itcame with a 'ttle p l & s o l w case that held the r o w taol m m e bits. and a mu& ~f accessopies But aer time,I kept adding mare b i i and a few iwamies. So it wasn't long before everything~ ~ 1 6fit 1neatly 1 i n the cw. T o wive this pmblesn, I I l t the rotary tatl storage

Themseis~~tobebuilt~aseriesofsmaller
proj&a You can & with just the upper c a s e and

drawew.Thisq,y~~(?(~~u&it@talway. Iakr, you can add a pair ofdccw. '&e doom win hold quite a few h iand a c as,).ar can ~see bebw. ~0r you can modify one of the doors to keep all your mamala m e shown bekow. It keeps werythiig ofganlaed and in one pkce (seephoto on opposibe page). Finally, buiId the lower case and drawer to hokl &he hangs mnwien* on cr d. Yet, yoti can e d l y remove mtary taol atong with any larger scmdes. the case and w r y it d&t to where yau need it.

HANDLE MAKE5 CASE PORTABLE UPPER CASE HANGS ON WALL y ANDHOLDSDRAWERS FOR STORING ACCESSORIES

DEEP DOORS MOLD SLIDE-OUT BIT TRAYS

SPACER UPPER AND LOWER CASES ALLOWS DOORS TO OPEN AND CLOSE FREELY

BETWEEN'

SLIDE-OUT BIT TRAYS CAN BE CUSTOMIZED FOR BIT STORAGE

.
wrPLM)EDMEW
Upper Case d Drawem
A B Case 5ides ( 2 ) Case Divider (1)

OVERALL DIMENSIONS: 17Yz.W x 6WD x 14%'H

F
G

Drwr. Fronts/Backs (10) % x 17/s 7% Drwr. Sides ( l o )

Doom & Bit Trays

I

Tops/Oottorns(4)

% x 1%- 8

M N

Tray Oases (7) Bit Holders ( 7 ) Case Top/Bottom ( 2 ) Case Sides (2)

I f / . x 0 '/a Hdbd.

Lower Case & Drawer

0 P

x 6'h - 17

16% x 9 / 4
5 T Drawer Bides (2) Drawer Frt./Bck. ( 2 ) Drawer ~ o t t o m (1)

'/4 Ply.

% w P5h6 - I @ / .

5 x E7Ia - I& ~ d b d .
-

f & S v

& r h YOU% alsoendupwitb q e e a h fhe sides for the trays, a couple of i Y r d s . To keep them c& at abwels a r e m h ~ t e in d the dhr. he hand and neatky stored, you can dowels act as & t o keep hmanM a t h e @mal doorsk&n above, uals implam, a s h the photo. Note: r ' h e b a ~ c c o n s t r ~ E d h d o o Just r be sure to insm the dowds

No. 67

ShopNotes

27

DRAWER

BOTTOM

Une of the nice things about the 0 A Uppi Se. design of this rotary tool storage (4" DIVIDER x 8%") NOTE: TOP. BOTTOM. The upper case case is that its modular. So you can 51DE5. AND DIVIDER ARE W-THICK will accept eight build as much or as little of it as you NOTE: DlVlDER START5 HARDWOOD: BACK OUT5AME 5YE A 5 SIDES 15%" PLYWOOD drawers Or you like. As vou cansee above. with un to can build fewer eight drawers the upper case makes depending on your a great storage project in itself So storage needs that's where I started. Building the case isn't complicated. As you cansee in F i e 1 ,it's n o t h i i more than a top and bottom connected by two sides and a center divider along with a plywood back. some kerfs in the sides and divider la, I used a tongue and dado joint. I Sides - The h t thing I did was to support the drawers of the case. like using this joint on small cases cut a couple 1/2"-thick hardwood But more about that later. For now, since it not only provides great blanks to size (43/4" x g5/8'1 for the you can set the divider aside. mechanical strength, but almost sides ( R ) . While I was at it, I cut an Tongue & Dado Joint At this guarantees that everything lines up identical blank for the divider (B). point, you're ready to begin work on automatidy during assembly. Why make a blank for the divider? the joinery that holds the case Cuttjng this joint is a simple twoThe reason has to do with aligning together. As you can see in Figure step process on the table saw. 'fie fvststep is to cuta kerf at the top and bottom of each side for the tongue, like you see in Figure 2a. The second step is to lower the saw blade for an l/sl'-deep cut and then nibble away at the remaining waste, as seen in Figure 2b. Drawer Kerfs - Nowyouke ready to tum your attention to the "joinery" that's used to support the drawers. As I mentioned earlier, a series of kerfs cut in the sides and divider are used to support the drawers. The kerfs do this by accepting the bottom NOTE: CUTKERFS ON BOTH FACES OF of the drawer ( F i e la). 'LDERSEE FIG. 3 To keen the kerfs alimed. , I used / Y l a stop block to position the sides and divider as I cut each '/artdeep kerf 2" apart (Figures 2 and 2c). Top & Bottom - Once all the kerfs are cut you're ready to work on the top and bottom of the case. You can start by cutting the top and

(%" x 17)

I0

28

ShopNotes

No. 67

*.

bottom (C) to h a l size from '/z"-thick hardwood ( F i e 1). Then cut a small tongue on the ends of each piece to fit the kerfs cut in the sides, as you see in F i e la. There's a couple more things to complete on the top and bottom before assembling the case. The first is to cut a shallow centered dado in the top and bottom to accept the divider, as in F i e lb. (Note: I f you're planning on adding the lower case later, it's best to drill a set of countersunk screw holes in the bottom piece at this time, as shown in Figure 1.) Back - The last thing to do to the top and bottom, along with the sides, is to cut grooves to accept the '/a1' plywood back (D). You can see this in F l e s 1 and lc. At this point, the case is almost ready for assembly. But there's one more thing to do. And that's to cut the divider to final size. As you may recall, the divider was cut to the same size as the sides. To fit the divider in place and keep the *kerfs aligned, you3 need to t r i m the same amount off the top and bottom until the divider just slips between the top and bottom of the case 3). Finally, you'll need to rip the divider to width so it's flush with the front edge of the case. Assembly - After gluing up the case, I eased the back edge and out-

side corners by routing an l/s" roundover, l i k e the one you see in F i e s l a and lc. Drawers - With the case complete, you can start working on the drawers. As I mentioned earlier, the drawer bottoms (E) support the drawers in the case by extending past the sides 4 and 4b). So I started by cutting them to size so they fit between the kerfs in the case l a and lb). What you're looking for here is a shghtiy snug fit so the drawers don't slide out too easily. Then you can ~ u the bottoms to width so they're flush with the front of the case. With the bottoms fit to the case, you're ready to cut the drawer fioflts/backs (F) andsides (GI to size. To do this, you11 need to allow for the joinery detailed in Figure 4a as well as an even gap C/sI1) around the sides and top once they're installed. Once all the joints have been cut, there's one last thing to do before assembly. And that's to make a cutout in the top of each drawer front to create a "finger hole" for opening the drawers. An easy way to do this is shown in the photo at right After cutting all the openings, you can assemble each drawer by gluing the sides to the fronts and backs. Then center each assembly on a bottom so it extends evenly from each side, as in F i e s 4 and 4b.

4Fmger Openings. Clarnp~ng a pair of drawer fronts together provides solid support when drilling the circular cutouts for the finger openings.

Cleats - AJI mat's left at this point is to add a system for mounting the case to the wall. I like to use a pair of interlocking cleats (H), like the ones you see in Figure 5. After beveling the edge of each cleat to 459 you can glue one cleat to the case and screw the other to the wall, as shown in Figure 5a.

NO=

DRAWER FRONT, BACK, AND SIDES ARE 1%-WICK \ HAKDWOOD

ASE

Doors & Bit Trays

With the pieces sized, you're ready to cut the rabbets in the sides, as shown in F i e 7a. And in Figure i'b, you'll see another rabbet that needs to be cut along the outside edge of all the pieces to accept the '/4" plywood door front Since you want the plywood to end up flush with the outside of the door pieces it's a good idea to check the actual thickness of your plywood before cutting the rabbet (My plywood was a hair over 3/16"thick.) Like the sides of the upper case, youll need to cut kerfs to accept the trays that hold the bits. The location of these kerfs is detailed in Figure 7. Or if you're planning to add the optional door, youll need to drill a set of holes for a pair of rails (h7 instead of cuttingthe kerfs (referto page 27). Now you're ready to size the plywood doorkoflt (L), as in Figure 7. To do this, I dry assembled the Although you can use the upper case Determiningthelengthofthe sides doors and trimmed each door front until it fit perfectly After gluing up the doors, you c a n . round over the front edge and outsecond, by making the doors "deep," size them so each door is half the side corners just like the upper case. it provides a convenient way to store width of theupper case after allowing Install Doors - To mount the rotary bits and other accessories. for the rabbets used to assemble the doors, youllneedto cut apair of morDoors - Each door is a plywood doors V i e s 6c and 7a). tises in each door for the h i e s Determining the depth is easy also. F i e 6). A simple technique for panel wrapped with atop, bottom, and sides Q3lgure 7). What% important I simply cut the tophottom (I) and removbg most of the waste and then here is to size the doors so they're sides a) to awidth of 1 1 / 2 " to accom- iinetvning the fit is shown in Figures flushwith the edges of the case. modate larger bits and accessories. 8 and 8a Then before installing the
NOTE:

DOOJ TOP

FOR DOOR WITH

' " 3

NOTE:
DOOR TOP,

BOTTOM AND 5 l D E 5 AREYZ"-+HICK HARDWOOD; DOOR FRONT I S W PLYWOOD

7 1
b.=q &
OF PLX

NOTE: CLAMP

DOOR5 TOGETnER WHEN REMOVING WASTE (CLAMPS NOTSHOWN)

30

ShopNotes

No. 67

doors, I sanded the inside edge of each one to ensure the doors opened and closed easily .(F"tgure 6c). To hold the doors closed, I added a set of rod magnets to the main case and screws to the top and bottom of each door (Figures 6 and 6a). Finally, a handle centered on the top of the case makes it easy to cany when you need to (see photo below).

an '/att hardboard base (M). Gluing on a l/it-thick hardwood bit holder (N) provides a place to store the bits. Instead of making individual trays, you can make an exh-wide one F i e 9). Then just rip each tray to finalwidth so they fit flush with the inside face of each door Figure 621). To store thebits,just drill centered holes along the length of each tray. BitTrays-Eachbittmyissimilar For some items, like sanding sleeves to the drawers in the upper case. and collets, I drilled larger holes and Here again, the bottom of each tray is installed dowels or cut-off nails.

A Magnet "Catch."

tower Case
The upper case provides all the storage you need for most accessories. But the lower case. you see in the drawing below provides a way to store the rotary tool itself, along with other odd-sizedaccessories. Case - The joinery for the lower case should look hniliar. It's idenAfter routing a roundover on all tical to the upper case - a tongue and dado joint, as in Figure 1%. So the outside edges of the lower case, once you have the lower case you're ready to screw the two cases topfiattom ( 0 ) and sides (PI cut to together. To ensure the doors h a l size, you can complete the wouldn't bind, I slipped an '/8" hardjoinery. Then after cutting a groove hoard spacer (R)between the cases for the '/a" plywood back (Q), you before screwing them together, as can assemble the lower case. you can see in Figures 10 and 10c. The spacer is sized so it's flush with the h n t edge of the upper case and its set in from the sides and back .(F"igures10a and 10c). Drawer All thats left to do is add the drawer. Here again, to join the drawersides (S) to thefronthck (3, there's just asimplerabbetjoint. But this time the '/a1' hardboard bottom (U)fits in grooves cut in the front/back and sides (Fgure lob). And as before, the drawer rant has a circular opening. &

If the b ~trays t are a ifttie ioose, gluing a magnet fn the door and add~ng a screw to the tray will act as a "catch" and prevent the tray from s11d1ng out

w e r

"t3riefcase"Sized.The compact stze of the case makes it easy to carryyour rotary twl and accessories right to where you need them.

No. 67

ShopNotes

31

Talk shop

l
.~ ..

A stack of freshly-treatedlumber

Paolora-"ab-,irr

e pressure chamber Inside the chamber, vacuum pressure is used to impregnate the wood with a liquid chemical preservative.

lumber is stacked in a pile and used to treat the lumber also make it deck, you're probably already placed on a small flat-bed car on unpalatable to termites. (However, familiar with pressure-treated rails. The stack is then rolled into treated lumber may still be attacked lumber. Ks the wood with the funny- a large vacuum-pressure chamber by other ins& that burrow into the looking green color that you find at (see photos above). wood without eating it, such as carhome centers, lumberyards, and in Once the door on the chamber is penter ants or carpenter bees.) backyards all across the country. closed, the wood is placed under Obviously, the biggest benefit to But ifs not the color that makes vacuum pressure, which pulls the air using pressuretreated lumber is the pressuretreated lumber so popular. and moisture out of the cells in the f a c t that anything you build with it It's the fact that it will stand up to wood. Then the chemical preserva will last much longer than ifyou used the elements for years without rot- tive solution is pumped into the non-treated lumber. Tbis not only ling or decaying. Even means you save time and termites turn their noses Despite its advantages, pressure-treated money, it helps to conup at the stuff. h fact, lumber has received quite serve our national timber a bit of negayou might almost say that resources as well. Since tiue publicity during the past few pressuretreated lumber simctnres built with is the perfect wood for outdoor use. chamber under pressure. The empty pressuretreatedlnmberdon'thaveto Chemical Preservative -Unlike cells in the wood suck up the chem- be replaced nearly as often, fewer redwood, cedar, or other naturally ical solution like a sponge. Finally, trees have to becut down. decay-resistant woods, pressure- the excess solution is pumped out of But pressure-treated lumber has treated lumber gets its resistant the chamber, leaving the cell walls some additional advantages over properties kom a chemical preser- coated with the preservative. naturally decay-resistantwoods. For vative that is added to the wood. But The preservative forms a chem- one thing, pressuretreated lumber this preservative isn't just sprayed or ical bond with the natural sugars tends to be substantially cheaper brushed on the surface. Instead, present in the wood. Tbis in turn than redwood or cedar. And the pressure is used to force the chem- prevents the growth of f u n g i that wood used to make pressureical solution down into the cellular would normally feed on the wood, treated lumber (typically Southern yellow pine or Douglas 6r) is structure of the wood. causing it to rot and decay. The process for treating the Advantages - Aside from protec- stronger than cedar or redwood lumber is fairly simple. The tion against fungi, the chemicals from a structural standpoint. You
f you've ever built a fence or a

ShopNotes

No. 67

0.

can also purchase pressuretreated plywood, so you aren't limited to @using only solid lumber. Buying Treated Lumber - One thing to know when shopping for treated lumber is that it is available in different "strengths." When the wood is treated, a stronger solution can be used to create lumber that retains more of the preservative chemical. The retention level of the chemical solution is spe&ed on a label found on the end of the board (see photo at right). Most of the pressuretreated lumber you're likely to come across in home centers has a retention rating of .40 (measured in pounds of solution per cubic foot of lumber) and is rated for ground contact. This lumber can be used for deck framing, fence posts, and landscaping. For wood that is going to be permanently buried in the ground, you'll want to use treated lumber with a .60 retention rating. And for above ground uses like fence p~cketsand deck planks, a retention rating of .25 is sufficient. Using Treated Lumber - You can use treated lumber just like any other lumber, with a couple of excep tions. Because the chemicals used to treat lumber can be harmful if ingested in large quantities (more on this later), you shouldn't use treated lumber for any food storage or preparation surfaces, such as cnding boards, countertops, or water troughs. And also, don't use sawdust or wood chips from treated lumber for mulch or compost. When you're workingwith treated lumber, it's a good idea to wear safety glasses and a respirator or dust mask. Then when you're finished working, make sure you sweep up any sawdust and scraps and change your clothes. But don't ever burn scraps of treated lumber. The chemicals in the wood can be ,released in t h e smoke. The chemicals in treated lumber can react with ordinary iron or steel nails and fasteners, causing

corrosion and leaving unsightly stains on your project. So you'll want to use hotdipped galvanized or stainless steel fasteners. Treated lumber can be painted or finished just like any other wood.

Unfortunately for consumers, the cost w i l l be about 2530%higher than CCA-treatedlumber. Additionally, the new chemicals used to treat the lumber are a bit more corrosive than the CCA So it's even more important to use stainless steel or hot-dipped IS IT SAFE? galvanized fasteners with the new Despite its advantages, pressure pressure-treated lumber. treated lumber has received quite a So what if you have a deck or bit of negative publicity during the swing set made out of CCA-treated past few years. The reason for this is lumber? Not to worry. According to the chemical that has traditionally the EPA, there is no need to demolish been used to treat the lumber - existing structures made from CcAchromated copper arsenate (CCA). lumber. In fact, CCA-treated lumber CCA contains arsenic, which can can continue to be sold even after be harmful if you ingest enough of i t December 31 of 2003 (until the Environmentalists are concerned existing stock is depleted). & that the arsenic in treated lumber is leaching out of the wood and contaminating soil and groundwater. And parents and consumer groups are worried that playgrounds built with treated lumber pose a health hazard for children. Is there any tmth to these claims? That really depends on which set of "experts" you listen to. Groups on mnr of both sides of the issue point to wem%Ri*nt studies that support their viewpoint. But the debate is really a moot point. Under pressure from the media and consumer advocate groups, the Environmental ProtecCONTROL tion Agency (EPA), has mandated that production of CCA-treated lumber for residential use be banned by the end of 2003. As of this date, pressuretreated lumber producers will no longer be able to use CCA to treat their lumber. But don't worry. You'll still be able to buy pressuretreated lumber. Fortunately, the lumber industry has already developed arsenic-free alternativesfor treating lumber. The new chemicals are known as allraline copper quaternary (ACQ) and copper m l e . During the next year, the industry will be transitioning to these new solutions. (You may already be seeing these products on the market) The new treated- A Green W d . lumber will look the same (it will still The chemicals used to treat the lumber leave it with a have the characteristic green hue), characteristic green hue whichfades over time. But you can but it will not contain any arsenic. aisopurchasetreated lumber that has been stained brown.

No. 67

ShopNotes

Tool Chest
Install hingesperfectly the first time with a set of drill bits that are inexpensive, indispensible, and dead-on accurate.
never forget the first time I stalled hinges on a p r o w After painstaldngly laying out the position of the binges on the door and cabinet, I used an awl to mark the location for the screws. Once I drilled the pilot holes and screwed the binges in place, I swungthe door closed-oniy to reveal uneven gaps around the edges and a corner that wasn't quite flush with the face of the cabinet The problem was the pilot holes for the screws weren't drilled perfectly centered in the binge holes. Vix Bit - Fortunately, that's not a concern since I started using a"tool" called a bit (or selfcentering drill A How It Work.. bit). Now I can drill The key to a Vix bit perfectly centered is a spring-loaded holes to just the right sleeve that slides depth -every time. ' into the body of A glance at the the bit as you margin drawing reveals the secret to drill the hole. how this bit works. It's actually a drill bit mapped by a spring-loaded mechanism that accomplishesthree things. First, there's a sleeve that automatically centers the bit over the
-~
~ ~

I2

h l'~

'

hole in the h i e . The reason this works is that the end of the sleeve is beveled. This allows the bit to slip into the countersink in the hinge hole, centering the bit automatically (see Cross Section detail below). Second, as you drill the hole, the sleeve limits the bit to a specific depth. And thud, the body has a set screw that allows you to adjust the drilling depth. Setting the Depth - As I mentioned, the set screw in the side of the bit allows you to adjust the drilling depth. (Or easily remove the drill bit to sharpen or replace k) S e t t i n g the depth can be a bit tricky though. The problem is you need to depress the sleeveby hand (which isn't easy) and then measure the exposed bit S i c e this can be m c u l t , I find it easier to simply set the bit so it's flush with the end of the sleeve and then drill a testhole. Measuring the

Shelf Pin Template

!

depth of the hole makes it easy to determine bow much to adjust the drill bit. Simply loosen the set screw, reposition the bit, and then retighten the screw. Size - One t h i i to keep in mind is that E x bits come in different sizes to match the screws you're installing. I have a set of three bits that handle #2 screws all the wayup to #I0 screws. Cost - These bits cost about $7 to $10 apiece - or you can often buy them as a three-piece set and save a little. For sources, refer to the margin on the opposite page. Shelf Pin Holes - One last thing. You can also get E x bits that are large enough to drill holes for shelf pins (see box at left). All you need to decide is whether you want a bit for 1/4"-dia holes or 5mm holes. m e s e larger shelf pin Vzx bits cost anywhere from $25 to $30.) Considering the time and effort that you put into building a project, the price of a Vi3C bit or two is w e l l 0 worth the cost since they pretty much guarantee perfect results.&

No. 67

Sources
Miter Saw Table & Fence
The Miter Saw Table and Fence System on page 6 requires a few unique pieces of hardware you probably won't be able to find at your local hardware store or home center. To solve the problem of rounding up all the hardware, ShopNotes Project Supplies has put together a kit that contains all the hardware you'll need to build the project including the T-track, through and studded !mobs, T-nuts, flange bolts, carriage bolts, washers, and fasteners.All you need to supply is the hardwood and MDF, as well as hex bolts, of the proper length for mounting your miter saw. To order, see the box below. Table & Fence Kit 6867-100 .............. $28.95 Note: Silarstyle hardware is available from some of the sources listed in the margin.

MAIL ORDER SOURCES

Similar project supplies may be ordered from thefoUdwing companies:
Lee Valley
800-871-8158 leeMUey.com

Rotary Tool Storage Case

You won'thave to round up much hardware for the Rotary Tool Storage Case on page 26. Other than some screws (detailed below), there are only three things you'll need. Hinges - The first item is two pair of 1 "x 1"zincplated butt hinges and mounting screws (#4 x '/zt9). Ipickedupthe hinges at a local hardware store. Magnets - Instead of using avisible catch to hold the doors closed, I used "invisible" hardware. All it takes is a set of four l/4" x '/4" rod magnets from Lee V a l l e y (99K36.01). Adding #6 x l/z" Fh woodscrews to each door provides a "catch" for the magnets. Handle F i y , to make it easy to carry the storage box around, I used a 9/16" tool box handle fromhe V a l l e y (00S03.20). Youll need four #6 x l/z" Rh woodscrewsto attach it

DmwerSlides,

~euar~,~~d~agne m l ~m Handle

McFeeVs 800.~3-7937 rncfeeIp.com ~ m c u lodes, t hm Slides, Knoh, Vm Bitg

McMaster-Carr 630-833-0300

mcmaster.com cmters, ~ i g h t s Reid TOOI 800-253-0421

Casters, reidtoo1.com DrawerSlides,

Knobs

Mini-Lathe Stand

TheMini-LatheStandon page 14 requires a number of mque hesides . items . your typical hardware. Casters & Levelers F i t ,to make the cabinet solid, yet mobile, there's a caster and leveler installed at each corner. The 3" casters we used swivel, and they're nonlocking. Lee Valley carries the casters (00K27.10)

along with the levelers (01S08.01). The nice thing aboutthe levelers is they're easily adjustedfromthetop with an Allen wrench (see photo at right). Casters and levelers similar to the ones we used are available from other sources (see margin). Slides - To make it easy to reach the entire contents of the three

drawers, they ride on fullextension, metal slides. (We used 16"-long black slides for the stand.) These types of slides are available at some home centers. Or you can order them from the sources listed in the margin. Light - F d y , to put your turnings in a "favorable light," you canadd the optional swing-arm lamp.

We found ours at a local office supply store. Or you c a n check out the lights available kom McMaster Carr (see margin).&

H e r 800-279-4441 raekler.eom Casters,~ S l

Fluwe B O ~ n, o b sm . Bits, T-Nuts

woodaafl 800325-1153 wooderaRcmn ~ m ~s~&s, e r ~iaw B+ ~mh ~, w h - ~ i t~ ea .uts, E Z~ i t e Woodsmith store 800835-50&1

s ~ , " ~ ~ l t s LeueEns, RhBitg, T?zu~~, vm Woodworkefls Supply 800-645-9292 woodworker.mm

back issues or a hardware kit from Project Supplies,please use our toll-free day, from 8 AM to 5 PM CentralTime: Before ling, please have your VISA, Mastercard, iscover, or American Express card ready, If you would prefer to mail in an order, please

No. 67

ShopNotes

35

Set up shop lust about anywhere w~th thl ltary tool storage case Bits are stored convt ide-out trays that fit ri r e doors 01

ln the main case offer plenty of space for )ol as well as a variety of other accesso, I constructionplans start on page 26

Cutting Diagram

Mini-Lathe Stand
Materials
Case A Top/Bottom (2) B Sides (2) C Vertical Divider (1) D Large Horiz. Divider (1) E Small Horiz. Divider (1) F Stretchers (2) G Side Panels (2) H Back (1) I Top Layers (3) J Front/Back Edging (2) K Side Edging (2) Drawers & Shelves L Sm. Drwr. Frts./Backs (4) M Sm. Drwr. Sides (4) N Gluing Blocks (8) O Sm. False Fronts (2) P Divider Strips (4) Q Tool Supports (4)
173/4 x 491/2 - 3/4 MDF 173/4 x 311/4 - 3/4 MDF 173/4 x 271/4 - 3/4 MDF 173/4 x 283/4 - 3/4 MDF 173/4 x 201/2 - 3/4 MDF 3/ x 3 - 49 4 181/8 x 311/4 - 3/4 MDF 281/4 x 501/2 - 1/4 Hdbd. 171/2 x 521/2 - 3/4 MDF 3/ x 21/ - 54 4 4 3/ x 21/ - 171/ 4 4 2
1/ x 21/ - 181/ 2 2 2 1/ x 21/ - 161/ 2 2 2 3/ x 3/ - 21/ 4 4 2 3/ x 21/ - 197/ 4 2 8 21/2 x 17 - 1/4 Hdbd. 3/ x 21/ - 151/ 4 2 2

R Lg. Drwr. Front/Back (2) S Lg. Drwr. Sides (2) T Lg. Drwr. Bottom (1) U Lg. False Front (1) V Large Shelf (1) W Small Shelf (1) X Large Shelf Edging (2) Y Small Shelf Edging (2) Door Z Rails (2) AA Stiles (2) BB Panel (1) Dust Shield CC Top/Bottom (2) DD End (1) EE Back (1)

x 5 - 263/4 x 5 - 161/2 16 x 263/4 - 1/4 Hdbd. 3/ x 51/ - 281/ 4 8 8 153/4 x 281/8 - 3/4 MDF 153/4 x 197/8 - 3/4 MDF 3/ x 11/ - 281/ 4 2 8 3/ x 11/ - 197/ 4 2 8
3/ x 3 - 145/ 4 8 3/ x 3 - 20 5/ 4 8 145/8 x 153/8 - 1/4

1/ 2 1/ 2

Hdbd.

41/2 x 10 - 3/4 MDF 41/2 x 4 - 3/4 MDF 4 x 51/4 - 1/4 Hdbd.

Page 1 of 2

ShopNotes No. 67

2003 August Home Publishing. All rights reserved.

W C D

49 x 97 - #/4" MDF

49 x 97 - #/4" MDF

CC

DD

Q EE EE BB

49 x 97 - #/4" MDF

48 x 96 - !/4" HARDBOARD

Page 2 of 2

ShopNotes No. 67

2003 August Home Publishing. All rights reserved.