Lawn and Garden Losses
Natural Hazards Series: Recovery
Winds, floods and winter storms can be very
damaging to plants. The information in this part of the
Recovery Series will help you salvage some plants,
including grasses, and give you some ways to re-
cycle plant debris. There’s also some discussion for
determining the value of lawn and garden losses.
Salvage Tips
When plant material has been damaged because
of intense winds or flooding, prompt care should be
taken to salvage all usable plants.
Resetting:
Generally, it is practical and economical to reset
only small, young and easy-to-manage trees. Large,
weakened trees and shrubs may be dangerous, are
slow to re-establish and may be susceptible to future
problems and even more severe wind damage later.
Fallen or partially uprooted trees and shrubs may be
saved in many instances, so keep roots covered and
moist before resetting.
In certain areas, where erosion and flooding
have occurred, a reconditioning of soil or planting
area may be necessary. Additional soil should be
incorporated into the planting area for proper root
coverage. Replant trees and shrubs at their original
planting depth. Excess soil or exposed roots will
cause further shock and damage. Firm soil around
roots to eliminate air pockets and provide support.
Staking the first year may be needed until roots
become re-established.
Part 5
Repairing and Pruning:
In removing portions of a plant, use sharp tools
that make a smooth, clean cut. Always make cuts
next to or flush with the trunk of a tree or back to a
primary limb junction. Leave no stubs. Ragged cuts
and unsightly stubs are prime areas for the attack of
insects or disease organisms. When removing large
limbs, avoid unnecessary stripping of bark down the
side of a trunk or primary limb. To eliminate stripping,
make a cut halfway through from the bottom of the
limb before cutting through the limb from the top, past
the bottom cut.
Pruning and thinning should be done at the time
of resetting so as to preserve the plant’s natural form
and to reduce weight. Concentrate first on broken and
weakened limbs, then thin smaller branches to a
limited degree. In no case should excessive amounts
of pruning take place. Foliage is required to manufac-
ture plant food. During the dormant season of Decem-
ber through February, additional pruning may be
needed, especially for plants that aren’t recovering
very fast or are in decline.
Cut away only badly damaged roots. Where root
damage has occurred, some upper branches and
foliage may be removed to compensate for the lack of
roots to reduce stress. If roots are exposed on blown
over plants, immediately cover them to keep them
moist until the plant can be uprighted and the roots
buried.
 Natural Hazards Series: Recovery
Lawn and Garden Losses
Watering:
Water all newly set plants immediately and a little
more frequently than under normal circumstances.
Drought may cause additional damage to plants not
watered regularly. Deep soaking with a slow stream
of water is most beneficial for root growth. This also
will tend to eliminate air pockets around the roots.
Mulching:
Mulch will conserve moisture and be helpful in
re-establishing shrubs and trees. Mulch with fallen
leaves, lawn clippings, pine needles or tree bark.
Staking:
Trees and large shrubs that are reset should be
staked until they become well re-established. Staking
is also a security against stress that may come if
plants experience other wind damage before re-
establishment. Use metal stakes or hardwood stakes
that will not decay for several months to a year. Place
stakes at an angle away from the trunk for greatest
support. To avoid injuring the trunk with wire or cable,
thread them through short sections of old garden
hose or other anchoring material, such as rope that
will not cut into the trunk. A wide strap or cloth is best
to prevent bark abrasion from staking. Securely
anchor plants from three sides to prevent movement
during normal high winds and rain.
Staking can be dangerous. Place all stakes out
of the path of people so they will not trip on them or
the guy wires. It would be wise to clearly mark or use
bright paint on obstacles.
Fertilizing:
As a general rule, fertilizer is not applied to
plants which have been damaged until they over-
come the shock, usually the next year. Until they
become re-established, fertilizer will be of no major
benefit and may injure the plant by causing excessive
growth that damaged roots can’t feed or water.
Fertilizer applied late in summer may also cause late
growth that will be more susceptible to early freeze
injury.
Treating Freeze Damage:
If trees show severe damage by bapeeling, you
should peel loose bark off so new bark can grow back.
Fertilize the tree in the spring. Some protection for fruit
trees or small, thin-barked trees can be provided by
deep mulches at the base and wrapping the bottom
trunk with wrap such as an old coat. Do not fertilize
plants late in the year or before February to prevent
active growth during cold, winter weather and to
increase dormancy. Follow up on freeze-damaged
plants with pruning before leafing out.
Tree Debris and Renewal
Use as much tree and plant waste as possible to
prevent burden on landfills.
Tips
Cut suitable trees for firewood. Fallen trees
should be cut within one year for use as firewood,
and the stacked wood should be protected from
rain. The thermal content of wood decreases as
decay increases. Ash, oak and pecan make very
good firewood. Pine and gum would be better
used for other purposes. Firewood splitters may
be available for rent.
Make mulch and compost. Most tree waste will be
decayed within several years, and it provides a
valuable source of organic matter. Nitrogen
fertilizer can be added to mulch and organic
matter to break it down sooner. Chippers may be
available for rent. For more information on
composting and making mulch, ask for the Exten-
sion publications “Backyard Composting” and
“Basic Principles of Composting.” The best trees
for mulch are softer species which decay faster
and are easier to compost.
Use tree sections as framing for raised beds, for
temporary bridges and for erosion control on
steep, eroding sites. They may be piled in rural
areas for wildlife habitat or fish shelters. Fish
shelters should be firmly secured in flowing
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 Natural Hazards Series: Recovery
Lawn and Garden Losses
waters to prevent downstream blockage of water-
ways.
When cut off at or above the ground, many favorite
trees will sprout from the stump and grow again.
Trim neatly and make clean cuts on any trees
needing pruning. Contact local nurseries or your
county agent for pruning advice.
Dead tree stumps left in the ground will decay,
sometimes producing large holes. This will take
several years. To speed up the process, consider
using a stump grinder where large trees have been
lost. The occasional addition of nitrogen fertilizer to
the top of a grooved stump will also promote rapid
decay.
Assessing Landscape
Tree Loss
You may be able to claim a storm
loss or insurance benefit as a result of
storm damage. Here are ways to assess
the value of damaged trees and
landscaping:
The decrease in the fair market value of the
property as a result of the casualty.
The adjusted basis in the property.
The amount of insurance or other compensation
allowed.
The cost of replacement (when replacement is
possible).
The decrease in fair market value is calculated
two ways: (1) appraisals immediately before and after
the casualty and (2) deduction from the before-
casualty fair market value less the cost of cleanup,
repair or replacement. Competent loss appraisals by
real estate appraisers are the best proof of decrease
in fair market value. Appraisal fees are deductible
under expenses incurred to determine tax liability.
Those fees are not part of the casualty loss.
Cleanup, repair and replacement costs on the
damaged landscape may be used to measure the
decrease in property value if:
The repairs are necessary to restore the
property to its condition before the casualty.
The amount spent on repairs is not excessive.
The replacement or repairs do no more than take
care of the damage sustained.
The value of the property after the repairs does
not, as a result of the repairs, exceed the value
of the property before the casualty.
Homeowners who sustain significant damage to
landscape trees may wish to contact the IRS to
determine what other methods are used to evaluate
tree value. If homeowners decide to pursue insurance
claims or tax deductions, they must prove that casu-
alty loss was sustained because of the storm or flood
and that amounts claimed as loss are deductible.
Such record-keeping also is important in substantiat-
ing any claims for loss recovery.
Specifically, homeowners must be prepared to
show:
1. The nature of the casualty and when it
occurred.
2. That the loss was the direct result of a sudden
and unusual event such as storm, lighting or
wind.
3. That the claimant is the owner of the property.
The costs of the property can be proved by
purchase contracts, deed, etc.; value before and after
the casualty; or the amount of insurance or other
compensation received or recoverable.
Tips
Photographs of the property before and after the
damage help show the condition and value of the
property before the casualty.
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 Natural Hazards Series: Recovery
Lawn and Garden Losses
Local newspaper articles, complete with dates
and the newspaper’s name, serve as evidence
of the casualty and its time and location.
Appraisals are the most desirable tools for
establishing values before and after the
casualties.
Keep receipts for repair and replacement for
claims as well as names of witnesses who can
help substantiate claims.
A CPA, IRS agent or other knowledgeable tax
person should be promptly contacted for
guidance.
Small Fruit Strategies
After a Storm
Storm damage to small
fruits shows itself in different
ways, depending on crop growth
habit as well as proximity to the
storm. For instance, wind is the most
destructive element for most fruit trees and vine
crops, while too much water, in some instances
saltwater, adversely affects other crops.
Here are suggestions to help fruit growers
evaluate their damage and take whatever corrective
action is possible.
Where wind damage is significant, pruning
should be as light as possible. However, if large areas
of cambium are exposed, the plant probably will not
survive without attention. Make clean cuts to mini-
mize the exposed cambium area. If the plant can be
saved, several growing seasons may be needed to
retrain.
Many plants that are leaning or uprooted can be
reset if the root ball is intact. Once they are reset,
use stakes to immobilize them.
Dikes, terraces or raised planting beds that were
altered need to be reshaped to protect the area, cover
exposed roots or provide a medium for new root
growth. Use the smallest equipment possible to
accomplish the job. This minimizes compaction and
reduces further root damage.
Premature defoliation caused by very high wind
speeds will weaken fruits. Defoliation coupled with
root damage will cause additional stress because the
root system serves as a tremendous storage reser-
voir for carbohydrates manufactured by the leaves.
Without this reservoir of carbohydrates to call on for
energy during the winter, the plants may be saved in
the short run only to die during the winter. Once the
top damage has been pruned out and after the first
freeze, apply nitrogen in a complete fertilizer at the
rate of 30 pounds actual N per acre. This will help the
plant start new root growth, which will continue during
the winter as long as the soil temperature is above 45
degrees F.
Soil concentrations of 3,000 ppm soluble salt will
make fruit culture very difficult. However, some fruits
are much more salt tolerant than others. Grapes,
figs, pomegranates and pecans are examples of fruits
that will not be hurt by increased salt concentrations
as readily as blueberries, strawberries and blackber-
ries. If soil salt concentration is high, irrigate fre-
quently to help reduce the buildup of salt after evapo-
ration. Test all irrigation water for salinity. If irrigation
ponds have been contaminated, pump them out and
fill with clean river or well water. Rainfall, while
complicating other cleanup activities, helps to flush
the soil.
If the sodium content is 250 ppm or more,
internal drainage problems will occur. They can be
corrected somewhat by using gypsum (calcium
sulfate, 18 percent sulphur, 20 percent calcium) as a
soil additive. Apply at the rate of 2 ounces of gypsum
per square foot of area (2 3/4 tons per acre), and
immediately irrigate to move the material into the soil
profile.
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 Natural Hazards Series: Recovery
Lawn and Garden Losses

Salinity and Turfgrasses
After a Hurricane
The surge of salt water brought inland by a
hurricane can cause a lot of damage to turfgrasses
on lawns, golf courses, sod farms, parks, play-
grounds, sports fields and leisure-recreation sites.
Here are suggestions to help turf managers over-
come saltwater damage to turf.
Irrigation with clean, sodium-free, fresh water is
probably the most important practice to follow when
rinsing accumulated salts from turf leaf surfaces and
leaching salts from root zones of soils. Test all irriga-
tion water sources for salinity. If the irrigation lake
has been flooded with salt water, pump it out and fill
with clean river or well water. Or, irrigate from the well
or river if not contaminated with salt.
Bermuda, zoysia, creeping bent and
St. Augustine turfgrasses have good relative
salinity tolerance (1500 ppm total soluble salts).
and the soil is dry. Try to keep the soil moist at least
when the plants are small.
Gypsum (calcium sulfate, 18% sulfur, 20%
calcium) can be used to help leach salt from the soil.
Gypsum works best when incorporated into the soil,
but it can be broadcast on the turf. Try 45-50 pounds
of gypsum per 1,000 square feet. Gypsum is not
very soluble in water, but it is more soluble than
limestone. Irrigate after gypsum application to move it
into the soil surface and root zone of the turf. Allow
time for the chemical reaction, then test soil salinity in
4 to 6 months. Continue irrigation to leach the salts
into soil below the root zone. Poorly drained soils will
be difficult to leach.
Water logging the soil for extended periods can
be as harmful to the turf as excess soluble salts.
Core aerification or deep tine aerification, preferably
with coring tines, can help improve infiltration and
percolation of water and salts through the soil and
below the root zone.

Tall fescue and perennial ryegrass have medium

salinity tolerance (800-1000 ppm total soluble
salts).

Red fescue, Kentucky bluegrass and

centipedegrass have poor relative salinity
tolerance (600-800 ppm total soluble salts).

Repeated irrigation with water containing 1200

ppm total soluble salts will be harmful to the turf
unless followed by sufficient rainfall or fresh irrigation
water. Even irrigation water containing 500 to 600
ppm total soluble salts, when used repeatedly without
being flushed with fresh water from rainfall or irriga-
tion, can create a problem by allowing salts to accu-
mulate in the root zone of the soil, especially in soils
with poor internal drainage.

If it is overseeding time, remember that turf-type

perennial ryegrasses have only medium tolerance to
salinity. To avoid a loss in stand of winter cover, test
the soils for salinity before overseeding. High salt
levels are more damaging when the plants are young
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 Natural Hazards Series: Recovery
Lawn and Garden Losses

“This material is based upon work supported by the Cooperative State Research, Education, and Extension
Service, U.S. Department of Agriculture, under special project numbers 92-ESNP-1-5184 and 96-ESNP-1-5219.”

Contributors:
Fred E. (Gene) Baker, Ph.D., Associate Vice Chancellor for Information Technology
Claudette Reichel, Ed.D., Specialist, Housing
Evva Z. Wilson, Ph.D., Specialist, Apparel and Textiles Management
Robert H. Mills, Ph.D., Specialist, Forestry

Visit our website: www.lsuagcenter.com

Louisiana State University Agricultural Center, William B. Richardson, Chancellor

Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service, Jack L. Bagent, Vice Chancellor and Director

Pub. 2668-E 7/99 Rev.

Issued in furtherance of Cooperative Extension Service work, Acts of Congress of May 8 and June 30, 1914, in
cooperation with the United States Department of Agriculture. The Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service
provides equal opportunities in programs and employment.