Coastal Engineering 57 (2010) 213226

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Coastal Engineering
j o u r n a l h o m e p a g e : w w w. e l s ev i e r. c o m / l o c a t e / c o a s t a l e n g

MEPBAY and SMC: Software tools to support different operational levels of headland-bay beach in coastal engineering projects
Andr L.A. Raabe a,, Antonio H. da F. Klein a, Mauricio Gonzlez b, Raul Medina b
a b

Centro de Cincias Tecnolgicas da Terra e do Mar, Universidade do Vale do Itaja, Itaja, SC. Cx. P. 360. CEP 88302-202 Brazil Environmental Hydraulics Institute, IH Cantabria, Universidad de Cantabria, Avda. de los Castros s/n, Santander 39005, Spain

a r t i c l e

i n f o

a b s t r a c t
This paper presents MEPBAY and SMC software tools that allow comprehending and solving problems in headland-bay beach through a parabolic model. These tools can be employed as coastal engineering design tools (including nourishment designs) and also for academic purposes. They are oriented to different endusers, including coastal technicians, scientists and undergraduates and as coastal engineering design tools, they can be applied to different operational levels (pre-design and design). The aim of the paper is to present design guidelines, the capabilities of the tools, their potential use and applications. Both tools were applied to analyze San Lorenzo Beach and demonstrate their ability at different project levels. 2009 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

Available online 30 November 2009 Keywords: Headland-bay beaches Parabolic bay beach models Static equilibrium beach planform MEPBAY SMC

1. Introduction Although headland-bay beaches have existed naturally for hundreds of thousands of years, many have been unwittingly created as a by-product of modern engineers undertaking projects on shoreline protection and harbour construction. A curved beach in an unstable condition may result from construction, with updrift accretion accompanied by downdrift erosion within the embayment, unless articial nourishment is implemented. As beach erosion problems have become serious in many countries, regardless of their national wealth, necessary measures against erosion are being considered to prevent improper human activities on beaches and rivers, which have frequently diminished sediment supply to a beach. In terms of beach stability, headland-bay beaches may be classied as being in static equilibrium, dynamic equilibrium or unstable (Silvester and Hsu, 1993, 1997; Hsu et al., 2000). Static equilibrium is reached when the predominant waves are seen to be breaking simultaneously around the whole bay periphery. At this stage, littoral drift is almost non-existent, and the curved beach is stable without long-term erosion or deposition, except during a storm period. For bays in dynamic equilibrium, balance in sediment budget is the key factor in maintaining the shoreline in its existing position. However, shorelines in dynamic equilibrium could retreat as sediment supply from updrift or from a river within the embayment is reduced, and even recede to the limit dened by the static equilibrium, if supply diminishes completely. On the other hand, for bays classied as un-

Corresponding author. Tel./fax: +55 47 33417544. E-mail address: raabe@univali.br (A.L.A. Raabe). 0378-3839/$ see front matter 2009 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved. doi:10.1016/j.coastaleng.2009.10.008

stable, often resulting from wave sheltering by a structure added to the beach, the curved shoreline experiences accretion in the lee of the structure, accompanied by downdrift erosion in the process of natural beach reshaping. Because headland-bay beaches in static equilibrium are the most stable landform which do not require sediment supply under the action of a persistent swell in nature, construction of a bayed beach in static equilibrium has been recommended as a means of stabilising eroding shorelines (Silvester, 1960; Hsu and Evans, 1989; Silvester and Hsu, 1993, 1997; Hsu et al., 2000). Due to the morphological signicance of curved beaches, several empirical long-term models based on equilibrium formulations have been proposed to t curves to their peripheries. Notably, parabolic (Hsu and Evans, 1989), logarithm spiral (Yasso, 1965; Silvester and Ho, 1972) and hyperbolic tangent (Moreno and Kraus, 1999) provide mathematical expressions that can predict the coastline of these beaches. Among them, the parabolic bay shape model is the one that has received the most attention (CERC, 2002). Based on these models, it has been possible to build different kinds of applications, such as identication of beach stability, prediction of morphological changes after man-made constructions, creation of articial beaches and many other engineering applications. Coastal projects follow detailed technical design phases, as is the case for a beach nourishment project (diagnostic, pre-design, design, monitoring and evaluation of the work). The tools presented in this document only deal with the pre-design and design phases, and are applicable to the reconnaissance and feasibility studies of any coastline. On the pre-design level, the aim is to identify and to evaluate the potential project alternatives of the solution with a minimum input data and using simple, relatively rapid and inexpensive methods, as well as using low-cost numerical tools. At this preliminary level, the designer better denes the problem, provides a

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deeper understanding of the predominant processes, and answers some preliminary questions. Once an alternative is selected by the coastal managers and decision-makers, in order to ne-tune the preliminary design, this alternative is analyzed and evaluated on a design level using more detailed and comprehensive predictive procedures, numerical tools and elaborate input data. The process of developing a coastal project follows an iterative or engineering approximation. Employing this iterative procedurechecking the simple (pre-design) and more detailed methods (design)allows a more rapid convergence to the nal design. Before the use of software products, the application of these models required manual calculation of the theoretical shoreline positions and tracing of the results on a map or aerial photograph. This procedure, though straightforward, was repetitive and tedious, especially when the results of several alternative options had to be compared. Using computer software specically designed for the task improves efciency since software interfaces turn possible to set control points directly over digital map images or photos. In this way, the user can analyze the real coastline and the theoretical one (drawn by plotting the model graph) merged on the screen. This allows an accurate analysis of the beach equilibrium state. Researches involved with the denition and evaluation of these models have promoted the development of different software packages. The parabolic model has been approached by MEPBAY (Klein et al., 2003) and SMC software (Gonzlez and Medina, 2001). Moreno and Kraus (1999) mentioned that convenient software routines were written to automate the tting process and make the application of hyperbolic tangent model objective. These software differ in many aspects, from target users to programming language. The development process is a challenging activity that must handle practices and requirements of coastal engineering eld considering technological restrictions and end-users expectations. This paper discusses the application of MEPBAY and SMC software for the parabolic bay beach model. They used different approaches and have different target users. Researchers of UNIVALI University in Santa Catarina state, Brazil, developed MEPBAY. It was initially dedicated to undergraduate students and was developed to improve practice with the parabolic model application using a user-friendly interface. Coastal Modeling System (SMC) has been developed by the Spanish Environmental Ministry and allows the study of coastal engineering projects based on a work methodology, a database of littoral morphodynamics information and numerical tools. The SMC encloses some numerical models to study beaches in different temporal and space scales. The same beach cases were evaluated with both software in order to identify similarities, differences, restrictions, and weak and strong characteristics of each. Some of their applications in the academic eld were also explored, as well as future perspectives for new versions. The main contribution of the paper is to present the application of software tools to aid different operational levels of coastal engineering projects, such as pre-design and design. Since both programs (MEPBAY and SMC) are applied to parabolic bay shape equation (Hsu and Evans, 1989), this paper will present a brief description of this model in Section 2. Section 3 details the MEPBAY software design guidelines and presents a pre-design analysis of the San Lorenzo Beach case study. Section 4 presents the SMC software and a detailed design project at San Lorenzo Beach. The conclusion assesses both software application and discusses future perspectives. 2. Parabolic model Most headland-bay beaches have asymmetric shapes, characterized by a curved shadow zone, a gently curved transition and a relatively straight tangential portion at the downdrift end (Fig. 1).

Fig. 1. Denition sketch for parabolic bay shape model showing major physical parameters (after Hsu and Evans, 1989).

They may appear as a salience or tombolo behind an offshore island, harbour breakwater or other man-made structures. In some situations, they may even turn up as a short straight segment behind a groin or protruding headland. Hsu and Evans (1989) developed a parabolic bay shape equation for a headland-bay beach in static equilibrium in the form of Rn = R = C0 + C1 = n + C2 = n :
2

Eq. (1) has two primary physical parameters, which are the reference wave obliquity angle and the control line in length R (Fig. 1). The former represents wave obliquity to the curved beach, measured between the incident wave crest at the wave diffraction point and the control line, whereas the latter denotes the distance joining the updrift diffraction point (X0, Y0) to the downdrift control point (X1, Y1), as seen in Fig. 1. It is worth noting that any point on or near the straight downdrift segment of the beach could be conveniently chosen as a downdrift control point, for which the convenience and insensitivity were noted in Silvester and Hsu (1993, 1997). This is how it is determined from a map, vertical aerial photograph and even on a planning sketch. The control line is also angled to the tangent at the downdrift beach end (Fig. 1). The radius Rn to any beach point around the bay periphery is angled n from the same wave crest line radiating out from the point of wave diffraction. The three C constants, generated by regression analysis to t the peripheries of the 27 prototypes and model bays, differ with reference angle (Hsu and Evans, 1989). Numerically, these coefcients may be expressed by fourth-order polynomials as follows: C0 = 0:07070:0047 + 0:000349 0:00000875 + 0:00000004765
4 2 3

C1 = 0:9536 + 0:00780:00004879 + 0:0000182 + 0:000001281

4

C2 = 0:02140:0078 + 0:0003004 0:00001183 + 0:00000009343

4

These C values are bounded within 2.5 and 1.0 for the usual range of angle from 10 to 80 applicable in most eld conditions (see Fig. 4.25 in Silvester and Hsu, 1993, 1997). Values of the nondimensional ratios Rn/R versus increments of 2 of from 20 to 80 have been tabulated for manual application (see Table 4.2 in Silvester and Hsu, 1993, 1997).

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Silvester and Hsu (1993, 1997) have shown satisfactory verication of this equation on several bay shapes, including the downdrift beach at Port Stanley, Lake Erie, Canada (Parker and Quigley, 1980) and a transitional bay beach in the gap of a revetment damaged during a hurricane event at Shinnecock Inlet, Long Island, New York (Dean and Maurmeyer, 1977). Despite having a variety of dimensions between the tip of a headland and its downdrift boundary, the stability of a bay beach can now be qualitatively assessed by applying the parabolic bay shape model. To facilitate practical applications, values of and R have to be determined rst from a map or aerial photograph, followed by manual calculation of the radii Rn for a range of corresponding n. For a bay beach with known and R, locations for pairs of Rn and n are then marked on the existing map with a curve drawn for the predicted static bay shape. Finally, the stability of an existing bay beach can be visually veried by comparing it with the static equilibrium shape under the same wave obliquity . For this, it is only necessary to have a planform of beach image. All the denitions, drawing and calculus are made over this image. Gonzlez and Medina (2001) introduced the equilibrium beach concept, which combines the static equilibrium plan and prole for long-term analysis. This methodology includes a modied equilibrium planform able to dene the angle min, which denes the downdrift limit from which Hsu and Evans's (1989) parabolic model is applicable. Also, it allows predicting the planform of non-existing beaches, by means of the denition of the front's orientation at the diffraction point in relation to the direction of the mean wave energy ux in the area. In order to employ this methodology, it is necessary, in order to have input data, to dene the local wave climate in the updrift control point (diffracting point). 3. MEPBAY software MEPBAY was developed to aid students to learn parabolic model application in several different beaches. Its primary design goal was to

create a usable interface with minimum workload. To accomplish this, a user centered design approach was adopted, in which the model manual application task was carefully analyzed to create an interface as similar as possible to this. 3.1. Manual application of parabolic model In the manual application of the parabolic model (Hsu and Evans, 1989), a map, topographical chart, vertical aerial photograph or satellite image of a bay beach may be used to obtain the two primary parameters ( and R) for the model. Silvester and Ho (1972) observed that, for a bay beach in or close to static equilibrium, the wave crest at the downdrift limit of the bay aligns almost parallel to the downdrift tangent, and the same happens for the wave crest line starting at the point of updrift wave diffraction (Fig. 1). Based on this observation, the usual procedure for applying the parabolic model is described as follows: (1) Choose a control line with length R: a straight line is drawn connecting the updrift wave diffraction point to an appropriate control point on the straight section downdrift (see Figs. 1 and 2). (2) Determine the predominant wave direction and reference wave angle : from the downdrift control point, a downdrift tangent may be drawn. This may be taken as the wave crest line, which is perpendicular to the incoming waves at the updrift diffraction point of the bay beach. The angle formed between the wave crest line and the control line is denoted as . (3) Calculate ray lengths Rn to the beach: starting from = at the downdrift boundary, rays Rn with angle n at constant intervals of 10 are calculated using Eq. (1) to a maximum of 150 or 180. The pairs of (Rn, n) values calculated represent the shoreline position radiating out from the updrift diffraction point for an idealized bay shape in static equilibrium. (4) Sketch the shoreline planform in static equilibrium: nally, the curved planform in static equilibrium is sketched on the existing

Fig. 2. San Lorenzo Beach case analysis using MEPBAY.

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map or aerial photograph by joining all the (Rn, n) points calculated for qualitative assessment of beach stability. A user may visually examine the stability of the beach by the proximity of the existing shoreline to that predicted in static equilibrium. Should they coincide with each other or be very close, the existing beach is in or close to static equilibrium. If the existing shoreline periphery is landward of the predicted one, the beach is said to be in dynamic equilibrium, in which the shoreline periphery remains unchanged due to the balance in sediment budgets from all sources. However, shoreline in a bayed beach in dynamic equilibrium may advance or degrade as net supply increases or decreases. The third kind of beach stability is termed unstable and it happens when natural beach reshaping occurs within a bayed beach due to wave sheltering by structures. However, the severity of beach erosion differs with changes to , when the tip of the headland is modied by a structure or when the wave approaching direction changes seasonally. The same process may be repeated for other sets of and R; which represent different engineering or management options arising from different structural conditions that may alter the position of the updrift control point on an existing beach. 3.2. MEPBAY use The manual process described in the previous section, though seemingly straightforward, is repetitive and laborious. In order to improve the efciency of applying the parabolic model to headlandbay beaches, software development is most desirable. The main goals for developing computer software of this kind is (1) to provide a user with a friendly environment to apply the parabolic model, and (2) to help a user arrive at an optimum design from several different options. MEPBAY was written in Object Pascal language. Computer displays are used for the manipulation of graphic images, after applying the parabolic model to simulate beach changes (Hsu and Evans, 1989).

Starting from the planform (les in raster format) of a headlandbay beach on an aerial photograph or map, the software package offers an interface that allows a user to indicate the relevant control points on the beach and to automatically trace the complete bay periphery in static equilibrium. The software facilitates experimentation in an efcient way for the graphic representation of the idealized shoreline in static equilibrium, in relation to the control points selected from the display on the screen. 3.2.1. Importing parabolic model to MEPBAY The importation of the parabolic model to MEPBAY not only makes the application of this model more efcient but also streamlines the physical interpretation of the result for practical applications. It is particularly important in the pre-design phase of an engineering project, which becomes viable with only one input data (beach image). A user will benet from the learning process, because the graphical result generated by the software is the consequence of his or her conscious selection of the control points for the beach under consideration. The operation of MEPBAY follows a set of procedures as follows: (1) From the File option on the menu bar, a user rst loads the screen of a computer with a beach image of a map or aerial photography in raster format (extensions BMP or JPG); (2) With the beach image on the screen, the user then selects an option that indicates Beach Orientation to indicate relative orientation of the beach and headland (i.e., updrift control point) to the screen; (3) From the Points sub-window and with the mouse, the user then locates three points on the image required for the parabolic model application. These are: (i) point H for the updrift control point, i.e., the point of wave diffraction, for drawing the wave crest line, (ii) point E for the downdrift control point on the beach, thus giving the control line, and (iii) point W for an end point along the downdrift tangent on the beach (see Figs. 1 and 3). After these actions, three line

Fig. 3. Poniente Beach, also showing the visual display of the beach using MEPBAY.

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segments are drawn upon clicking on the Z option in the Tools sub-window; (4) Upon clicking on the Bay-like graphic option in the Tools sub-window, MEPBAY calculates the wave reference angles , R and radii Rn for each increment of n. At the same time, the results are also saved in a raster format and may be printed out later, if required; (5) Finally, MEPBAY draws the predicted static bay shape overlaying the image of the existing beach, from which the condition of beach stability can be visually assessed. The user can then analyze the effect of any likely modication to the beach arising from the construction of a structure for shore protection and of a harbour facility. MEPBAY may also motivate user's curiosity for working on various engineering and management applications, due mainly to its simplicity in applying the parabolic model and the graphic visualization of the results. 3.3. Practical MEPBAY application (San Lorenzo Case Study) MEPBAY could be most suitable for project evaluation to determine the optimum design options from several proposals with variations in conguration (in length, location and orientation) of a structure, especially the point of wave diffraction. The environmental impact of a structure on beach stability can be veried through the screen display of the predicted static bay shape. In this way, the user not only gains insight on the physical processes of beach changes, but also achieves the best solution for shoreline protection and coastal management. Applying MEPBAY to San Lorenzo Beach, an urban beach in the city of Gijn, Spain, before the breakwater construction, made it possible to identify the dynamic equilibrium situation with potential erosion on the west side of the beach (Fig. 2). This erosion could be minimised with the construction of a headland-attached breakwater. The parabolic bay shape equation can be applied to identify the effect of constructing a man-made structure on an embayed beach. As shown in Fig. 3, two breakwaters were built at Poniente Beach, in Spain, to produce an articial beach. By applying MEPBAY, it is shown that the existing beach planform is identical to the static bay shape given by the parabolic bay shape equation, Eq. (1), for both sides. On the other hand, the application of Headland Control (Hsu et al., 2000) to develop an articial beach shows that the human intervention was successful. MEPBAY can be used to facilitate this predesign engineering task of locating the updrift and downdrift control points in order to have a static equilibrium beach planform. 3.4. MEPBAY academic applications The very rst experiment conducted with MEPBAY is probably the only one concerned with pedagogical issues. The authors of the software searched for empirical evidence of improvement in learning potential when equilibrium states in headland-bay beaches was taught at the oceanography undergraduate course at UNIVALI University, Santa Catarina, Brazil. The results indicated that over 95% of the students have found it much more interesting to learn using MEPBAY. The teacher also reported an increase in interest and comprehension about control points positioning (Vargas and Raabe, 2001). Many researchers of the area have reported (through e-mail to Coastal_list) that they used MEPBAY with students which found it easy to understand and useful. Piorewicz (2004) has analyzed beach changes at Yeppoon Main Beach (Capricorn CoastAustralia) after the reconstruction of the existing seawall. The analysis covered observed changes to the beach since October 2001, when the new seawall was almost complete. Because littoral drift is very low in the region of the Yeppoon Main Beach, the cross-shore sediment transport plays a much more

important role in the reshaping of the beach. Thus the crenulateshaped bay theory may nd applicability in the analysis of beach restoration. The MEPBAY model was used for this analysis. The recorded shoreline was used to verify the local wave direction and the best agreement was obtained for nearshore wave direction in the order of 90 azimuth, and for the angle between the control line and wave crests in the order of 38. According to Piorewicz (2004), the program MEPBAY allowed analysis of several positions of articial headlands to obtain optimal improvement of the beach, considering its stability and the protection of the seawall. Benedet et al. (2004) have used MEPBAY software to illustrate that the parabolic model is not suitable only for single headland beaches. They extended the model application to other unique beach congurations not previously covered in the literature, such as bay shapes between coastal structures, bays with double curvature, and bays in complex dynamic and static equilibrium. Chiou (2004) has used MEPBAY in combination with SBEACH software for estimating the beach nourishment process of Nanbin Beibin Beach, in Taiwan. Firstly, the stability of the beach in relation to the total length of the Eastern Breakwater of Hualein harbour was assessed by MEPBAY software. Secondly, a rational beach retreat was calculated using SBEACH software, which was used as a minimum buffer width for a proposed bayed beach using MEPBAY. Thirdly, headland control approach was suggested using articial headlands in a curved shape rather than the traditional straight groin and detached breakwater in narrow gaps. Finally, the total volume of the ll materials and budget was estimated, in order to enhance the applicability of the study. Lausman (2006) has been applying MEPBAY in an ongoing project to measure the subjectivity in the setting of the three control points of the parabolic model. Many images with different point settings for the same beach were built using MEPBAY save as functionality and are going to be presented to experienced users in order to accomplish the measurement (see also Lausman et al., 2010-this issue).

3.5. Future perspectives The initial purpose of MEPBAY was to aid students with a practical learning tool to test the equilibrium situation of several beaches. For this reason, the software was conceived to be easy to use. In its rst version (available only in Portuguese), there was also a tutorial for students to read and understand the theoretical basis of the parabolic model. In the second version (still the current one), some improvements were made to the interface, based on interaction essays conducted with the rst version, and it was translated to English. As shown before, the use of MEPBAY has achieved its initial purpose. Many researchers (e.g., Benedet et al., 2004; Hsu et al., 2008, 2009, 2010-this issue; Jackson and Cooper, 2010-this issue) have used it as a practical tool for fast application of the parabolic model. Many equilibrium evaluations and measurements of differences between real coastline and model coastline have been conducted. As a result of this unexpected use of the software, many of the design goals are being revised in order to create a new version that can be more suitable for the needs of advanced researches in the area. Some of the new characteristics to be implemented have originated from restrictions in the current version, others are improvements. They are: To handle TIFF images; To handle les larger than 20 MB; To provide information about precision and error of the measures (based on pixel resolution); To improve tools of scale and measurement; To provide more image tools (such as t zoom, pan, rotate etc.); To allow more than one curve to be drawn over an image;

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To export the curve pairs of (Rn, n) and (X, Y) screen coordinates to a Comma Separated Values le (CSV); To allow dening imprecision for the wave crest direction. Another possible improvement being analyzed is to allow the creation of log spiral and tangent hyperbolic curves (besides parabolic) for comparison purposes. 4. Coastal Modeling System (SMC) The user-friendly numerical system called Coastal Modeling System (SMC) is part of the Spanish Beach Nourishment Manual (SBM). The SBM was developed by the DGC and the Ocean and Coastal Research Group (GIOC) of the University of Cantabria between 1995 and 2003. The objectives of this SBM are: (1) to establish a methodology to design, execute and follow-up coastal projects; (2) to design actions in order to prevent coastal retreat and to estimate ooding risks of low Spanish littoral zones; (3) to better know the dynamics and evolution of the Spanish coastline; and (4) to compile the Spanish experience in the coastal engineering eld. This SBM contains three major parts: (1) science-based documents, (2) engineering-based documents, and (3) numerical tools (Fig. 4). The science-based documents are organized to lead the reader from fundamental scientic principles and littoral processes. It includes four subdivisions: Coastal Hydrodynamics (GIOC, 2003a), Coastal Littoral Processes (GIOC, 2003b), Coastal Protection Structures (GIOC, 2003c) and Environmental Engineering Impact for Coastal Actions (GIOC, 2003d). The two engineering-based documents, the Littoral Flooding Atlas for the Spanish Coast, and the Beach Nourishment Design and Evaluation Methodology are oriented toward a project-type approach. The former is a risk-based analysis along the Spanish coastal border in order to estimate the extreme sea level due to the combined effects of tides, storm surge and wave run-up on beaches (see details in GIOC, 2003e). This long-term analysis was carried out based on data from the Spanish networks of wave-buoys and tidal gauges. The risk-based analysis allows, for any location along the Spanish coast, the denition of the mean and extreme ooding level in terms of the number of waves (mean regime), return period (extreme regime), local orientation of the coastline and average bottom slope (cross-shore). The Nourishment Design and Evaluation Methodology allows the analysis of coastal projects through detailed technical design phases (diagnostic, pre-design, design, monitoring and evaluation). The user-friendly SMC encloses some numerical models that allow the application of the methodologies and formulations proposed in the previous documents in coastal projects (GIOC, 2003f). The SMC is structured in ve modules: (1) A pre-process module which generates

all of the input data for the short-, middle-, and long-term numerical models. This module obtains (for any location along the Spanish coast, including the islands) all the Spanish bathymetry, wave directional regimes and the littoral ooding risk; (2) The short-term module includes the numerical evolution of morphodynamics models for monochromatic and irregular input waves, in a process on a scale of hours to days; (3) The middle- and long-term module allows the analysis of the middle-term processes (seasonal changes) and longterm response of the system on a scale of years; (4) The bathymetry renovation module permits easy updating of the actual bathymetry, including different elements (sand lls in equilibrium beaches: plan and prole, coastal structures etc.), in order to evaluate the different alternatives proposed using the numerical models; and (5) The tutorial module (TIC) includes the theoretical background in a numerical system and provides some data process systems for time series (e.g., buoys and tidal gauges). This module supports the science-based documents and is subdivided into four items: dynamics, coastal processes, coastal structures and environmental impact. For an overview of the SMC, see Medina et al. (2001) and Gonzlez et al. (2004). The goal of the long-term analysis is to determine which will be the nal shape (plan-prole) of the beach and/or the temporal evolution of said shape on a scale of years in order to assure that the beach functionality continues throughout its useful life. The existing formulations for this time scale do not analyze the processes (for example, wave-to-wave sediment transport), but rather magnitudes aggregated to them. The SMC includes a graphic user interface module to test stability or to design new equilibrium beaches taking into account the equilibrium plan and prole (Fig. 5). This methodology has been applied to various Spanish beaches on the Atlantic and Mediterranean coasts with good results, constituting a practical easy-to-use engineering tool in beach regeneration projects (see Gonzlez and Medina, 2001). The system permits the design of nourishment projects using the concept of equilibrium beach, which combines different equilibrium prole and planform formulations. A summary and some details regarding the different long-term beach formulations and the design nourishment methodology employed in the SMC are presented in Gonzlez et al. (2010-this issue) to the equilibrium prole, several formulations are included in the system, such as: Dean's (1991), the bi-parabolic prole proposed by Medina et al. (2000), the equilibrium prole in reef-protected beaches by Muoz-Prez et al. (1999) and the equilibrium prole affected by refractiondiffraction (Gonzalez and Medina, 1997; Requejo et al., 2005). Regarding the equilibrium planform, the SMC includes: the parabolic formulation of Hsu and Evans (1989) and the modication proposed by Gonzlez and Medina (2001). The input data for all of these equilibrium formulations are

Fig. 4. Structure of a new Spanish Beach Nourishment Manual (SBM).

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Fig. 5. Coastal Modeling System (SMC) interface and concept of equilibrium beach combining equilibrium prole with static equilibrium plan form.

supplied by the Odin, Atlas and Baco pre-process programs. A detailed description of the long-term module can be found in GIOC (2003f,g). 4.1. Practical SMC application (San Lorenzo Beach Case Study) The Cantabrian coast of Spain is divided into a series of pocket beaches; most of the headlands extend into deep water and appear to be effective in conning littoral sand to the embayment. Therefore, the coast is divided into a series of littoral cells. One of these littoral cells is San Lorenzo Beach and Poniente Beach, which are located in the city of Gijn on the Cantabrian coast, to the east of the Gijn harbour (Fig. 6). The goal of the San Lorenzo Beach case is to quantify the impact on this beach of a harbour enlargement, and to propose solutions to minimize these impacts. Regarding the Poniente Beach case, the goal is to design the nourishment project for a new urban beach. The analysis of this last case is presented in detail in Gonzlez et al., (2010this issue). 4.1.1. Case description of San Lorenzo Beach San Lorenzo Beach is an urban beach located in the city of Gijn. It is one of the most important beaches in the area, being a tourism spot, especially during summer, and a recreational space for the inhabitants of Gijn. The Gijn Harbour Authority is studying the possibility of a future enlargement of the facilities. Several alternatives have been proposed and one of them consists of a new exterior harbour protected by a 2km breakwater, as shown in Fig. 7. The large dimensions of this harbour alternative would modify the marine dynamics in the area, including San Lorenzo Beach. Thus, some morphodynamical changes are expected locally at the beach. 4.1.2. San Lorenzo Beach morphology The orientation of San Lorenzo Beach is W10NE10S. It is a 1.3 km-long sandy beach conned between two rocky capes, Santa

Catalina Cape to the west and the Cervign Cape to the east, and a side wall to the south (see Fig. 6). The geophysics studies developed in the zone demonstrate a continental shelf with rocky bottom and some small deposits of sand, as shown in Fig. 8, where the dark areas correspond to the rocky bottom and the clear zones to the sandy bottom. This gure shows how the Santa Catalina and Cervign Capes extend seaward under the sea bottom. These features will be important for local wave refraction and current system in the beach, as will be shown later. Due to the tourism importance of San Lorenzo Beach, several studies have been carried out throughout the years. Bathymetric proles and sediment samples have been surveyed along the beach over the last 20 years (1985, 1994, 1995 and 2001). These proles present two decreasing parabolic sections, with steeper surf proles to the east of the beach. The slope of the surf prole starts gradually to decrease along the beach towards Santa Catalina Cape. From all these bathymetric data, it can be concluded that the beach has no evidenced erosion/accretion net processes, with the typical seaward and landward prole displacement associated to summer and winter climate conditions. Hence, we can consider that the beach has been in equilibrium in plan and prole for the last several years. 4.1.3. Marine dynamics More than 75% of deep water waves approach the harbour from the northern (N) to north-western (NW) sector. The annual average signicant height is about 1 m with typical winter storm signicant waves of about Hs = 5 m. The semi-diurnal tides in Gijn have a mean tidal range of 3 m and a mean spring tidal range of 4.5 m. The wave height behind the Prncipe de Asturias Breakwater from the east to west decreases due to diffraction and refraction effects caused by both the breakwater and an important shallow area called the Amosucas shallow, which is located in front of the breakwater tip, as shown in Fig. 9. In this gure, the typical storm wave conditions from NW with Hso = 4 m, Tpo = 16 s at high tide sea level show an important wave concentration generated by the offshore shallow, in the Cervign Cape east of San Lorenzo Beach.

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Fig. 6. Location map of San Lorenzo Beach, Gijn, Spain.

A wave propagation study was carried out employing the Oluca-SP spectral model (see GIOC, 2003h). This is a weakly nonlinear combined refraction and diffraction model included in the SMC, which is based on the parabolic approximation solution to the mildslope equation. In summary, the waves at San Lorenzo Beach are principally affected by the Principe the Asturias Breakwater, the Amosucas shallow and the local bottom bathymetry. There is a remarkably important wave height variation along the beach, with local wave energy concentrations on the beach (see Fig. 9). The location of the wave energy concentrations on the beach is mainly governed by the inuence of the Amosucas shallow on the offshore incoming waves and the characteristics of these incoming waves, such as: wave incident angle, wave period, tidal level and wave height. From the wave propagations, it can be concluded that the waves coming from the N to NNW concentrate the wave energy from the west to the middle area of the beach, respectively. The wave concentrations move toward the east of the beach for waves coming from the NW, as shown in Fig. 9, with a concentration of the wave energy in the zone of the Cervign Cape. This wave behaviour along with the beach conditions is responsible for the wave-induced currents and morphological response of San Lorenzo Beach, as explained in the following sections.

Fig. 7. One of the harbour enlargement alternatives, Gijn Harbour.

The wave-induced currents are responsible for the stability in plan and prole of the beach. The current system has been calculated with the wave-driven current model 2DH called Copla-SP (see GIOC, 2003i, which is also included in the SMC. The hydrodynamic model is waveinduced by the wave gradient of radiation stresses obtained as an output from the Oluca-SP. From the current simulations on San Lorenzo Beach, it can be concluded that the current system is composed of four currents: (1) a current along the Cervign Cape, toward the western area of the beach; (2) a current along the Santa Catalina Cape, toward the eastern area of the beach; (3) a longshore current, whose direction and intensity depend on the wave energy and the location of the wave concentration; and nally, (4) a rip current, which is located at the meeting point of the longshore currents. Under winter conditions, the wave storms usually come from the NW with wave energy concentrations in the Cervign Cape, as described previously, generating two close cellular circulations, as shown in Fig. 10. Under this condition, the seaward rip current occurs in the eastern zone of the beach. This rip current's position is moving toward the west of the beach, to such an extent that the offshore incoming waves move from the NW to the north. Under the mean wave conditions in the area, the current system on the beach displays important changes. Some small wave concentrations are presented in the middle of the beach, generating two weak cellular current systems. These systems are composed of: (1) a coastward current in the middle of the beach; (2) two longshore currents, which start in the middle of the beach and move toward the two capes at its ends; and (3) on the beach ends these currents return seaward where they are intercepted by some weak currents coming along the capes. The position of the starting point in the middle of the beach can change depending on the offshore wave conditions. As a summary of the wave and current system at San Lorenzo Beach, it can be concluded that the waves at the beach are conditioned mainly by the interaction of the offshore wave conditions (wave direction, wave period, wave height on a tidal level) with the harbour breakwater and by the Amosucas shallow. The current system is composed of cellular currents, which are conned between the lateral and bottom boundaries of the beach. Therefore, a net current does not exist which can generate a net sediment transport out from the beach, as has been demonstrated with eld evidence during the last 20 years. The equilibrium plan and prole formulations require dening the wave conditions locally on the beach. For Dean's equilibrium prole, it

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Fig. 8. Poniente Beach, also showing the visual display of the beach using MEPBAY.

is necessary to dene the local seaward limit Depth of Closure, h* (Hallermeier, 1981; Nicholls et al., 1996, 1998); for the bi-parabolic equilibrium prole, the local fall speed parameter, ( = Hb / T) allow us to dene the A, B, C and D coefcients (see Gonzlez et al., 2010-this issue). Therefore, the equilibrium planform requires dening the direction of the mean energy ux of the local waves in the control point. In order to obtain the wave climate near the beach, it is necessary to propagate the offshore waves to the coast. For that, there are two buoys close to the study area from the Spanish Wave Network; the Gijn 1 is a 20-year scalar buoy located in a 23-m water depth, and the Gijn 2 is a 10-year directional buoy in a 450-m water depth. Additionally, using the wind forecast as an input, waves are predicted as an output from the numerical model's WAM cycle 4. Thirty-year wave data, with a 1-hour time interval, is available for several offshore points throughout the study area. The wave and sea level hindcast has been carried out by the Spanish holding of harbours, Puertos del Estado (PE), and the calibration of these data has been carried out by the University of Cantabria using the buoy data. Based on 350 wave cases obtained as a combination of different wave (Hs, Tp and Ym) and tidal level conditions, and using the Spectral propagation model Oluca-SP, several transfer interpolation functions have been obtained for ve points along the beach, see Fig. 11 (e.g., the diffracting points in Santa Catalina, P1 and Cervign Capes, P2). Thus, the 30-year offshore wave data, with a 1-hour time interval, has been transferred to several beach points near the beach; this wave data is available for the different scale plan and prole models. 4.1.4. Littoral morphodynamics In order to study the beach stability in San Lorenzo Beach, a longterm analysis, based on equilibrium plan and prole formulations, will be presented in this section. For the bi-parabolic equilibrium prole (Medina et al., 2000), some sediment data are necessary, in addition to the local wave data, such as the mean sediment size (D50). Based on the 20-year eld data of sediment samples along the beach, it can be concluded that San Lorenzo Beach is composed of ne sand, with a small variation of sediment size throughout the years. A persistent longshore gradation has been identied (Fig. 12) with a mean sediment size of D50 = 0.27 mm to the west of the beach (near Santa Catalina), D50 = 0.29 mm in the middle zone, and D50 = 0.34 mm to the eastern

zone (near Cervign Cape). Mean grain size values have been obtained as the average value of the prole samples in each zone. This mean distribution of grain size along the beach is in accordance with the intensity of the currents along it, with coarser sediment where the currents' intensity is stronger. As mentioned previously, the historical data evidence shows variations of the prole slope and shape along the beach. In fact, when the longshore wave and sediment variations are merged, the equilibrium bi-parabolic prole has to be calculated for the three zones, as shown in Fig. 13. These equilibrium proles have been obtained based on the mean signicant wave height and peak period at points P3, P4 and P5, which are located at Depth of Closure, h* ~ 6.5 m ( Hallermeier, 1981); the mean sediment size in each zone and the mean spring tidal range in the area (M). As an example, the mean summer prole (2001) in Zone 1 and the bi-parabolic equilibrium model are presented in Fig. 14. The equilibrium biparabolic model in this gure represents the beach prole quite well. In order to test the equilibrium plan form in San Lorenzo Beach, the methodology proposed by Gonzlez and Medina (2001) is employed. First, it is necessary to dene the direction of the mean energy ux of the waves (Ymef) in the control or diffracting points P1 and P2 (Fig. 15). Based on the wave climate in P1 (Santa Catalina Cape), Ymef = N18E is obtained, and in a similar way in P2 (Cervign Cape), Ymef = N4W is obtained. Fig. 16 shows the San Lorenzo high tide shore line and the equilibrium shoreline (detached line). The min angle (= 90) has been obtained using Ts12 = 16 s and a mean water depth h = 10 m (which include a 4.5-m tidal range). It can be concluded from this gure, that the beach is in equilibrium plan form. It is noted that when the sea level is in high tide, the beach is not a dry beach in the western zone (near the Santa Catarina Cape). The same behaviour can be predicted using the equilibrium plan form. 4.1.5. Harbour enlargement impact on the stability of San Lorenzo Beach The breakwater enlargement proposed in Fig. 7 will generate changes in the beach morphodynamics, with changes in the marine dynamics (waves and currents) and the beach stability in plan and prole. The rst effect on the marine dynamics is the reduction of the wave energy reaching the beach and the rotation of the wave fronts due to the diffraction effect. The wave energy reduction is also associated with the diffraction effect of the new breakwater, combined with the disappearance of the wave concentration

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Fig. 9. Wave storm from the NW (Hso = 4 m, Tpo = 16 s, High tide sea level = +4.5) Spectral wave propagation, parabolic model (Oluca-SP).

generated under specic wave conditions by the Amosucas shallow. As an example, Fig. 14a shows the same typical wave storm condition from NW with Hso = 4 m, Tpo = 16 s at high tide sea level, where the wave concentration generated by the offshore shallow on the beach practically disappears. The wave-driven current system along the beach is further modied. The two cellular current systems described in the previous section disappear. A net current from the east to the west along the beach is generated in all the wave conditions, as shown in Fig. 14b. Hence, a net sediment transport tendency toward the western zone (Santa Catalina Cape) is expected. On the other hand, the bi-parabolic equilibrium prole predicts a more reective condition due to the wave energy reduction, with a steeper prole in the three zones. By propagating again the offshore wave climates from the last 30 years to ve points on the beach (see Fig. 15) and keeping the same mean sediment size in the zones, the biparabolic prole coefcients are obtained, as presented in Table 1. Regarding the equilibrium planform, the mean energy ux in diffracting points P1 and P2 (see Fig. 15) presents some rotation. Based on the wave climate in P1 (Santa Catalina Cape), Ymef (=N30E) is obtained, and in a similar way in P2 (Cervign Cape), Ymef (=N12E) is also obtained. In order to predict the equilibrium shoreline under the inuence of the new breakwater, two hypothesis can be assumed: (1) the rst hypothesis is not to provide a sand lling on the beach, and to let the beach re-accommodate in plan and prole to get an equilibrium beach; (2) the second hypothesis consists of obtaining the equilibrium beach (plan and prole) without any retreat of the high tide shoreline in winter conditions. For the rst alternative, the equilibrium planform is presented in Fig. 16 (see detached line). In this situation, an erosion process would occur in the middle and the south of the beach, with a prole retreat in order to t the shoreline rotation with the seaward prole advance in the western zone. It is remarkable that the equilibrium shoreline response is in accordance with the tendency shown for the wave-induced currents. For the second alternative, the equilibrium shoreline (in detached line) is presented in Fig. 17. In this case, the goal is to avoid the shoreline retreat in the middle of the beach. In this situation the equilibrium shoreline presents an average advance of 50 m in the western zone. The SMC system allows the combination of the equilibrium prole with the equilibrium plan, in order to dene the equilibrium beach. In Fig. 17, the designed equilibrium beach for the second alternative is presented. The beach berm has been dened at the 6.0 level and the SES at the 5.0 level, taking into account different local sea level elements (e.g.

Fig. 10. Wave-driven current system for a wave storm from the NW (Hso = 4 m, Tpo = 16 s, High tide sea level), numerical simulation with the (Copla-SP) model.

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Fig. 11. Prole sectors, mean sediment sizes and local wave climate points.

astronomical and meteorological tides, surf beat, wave swash). Fig. 17 also represents the interception between the sand lling with the native bottom, which is between the 2.0 and 3.0 levels, inside the cape connement. The nourished equilibrium prole and the native prole in a central zone of the beach (see location in Fig. 17) are presented in Fig. 18. The cross-shore prole has been dened employing the biparabolic equilibrium prole, based on the local wave characteristics and assuming that the borrowed sand has a similar sediment size compared to the actual situation. The bi-parabolic prole coefcients for each beach zone (see Fig. 11) are presented in Table 1. The volume of sand for the sand lling in this project has been evaluated in 450,000 m3. 4.2. Future lines for the SMC The SMC is a non-static system. On one hand, it should evolve by completing and incorporating new data bases, thus allowing the improvement of the system's pre-processing programs. On the other, it must incorporate new scientic knowledge that could be included in the system by means of direct usage applications. As for the preprocessing programs, it is important to include new data sources for

Fig. 12. Summer prole in Zone 1 (2001) and bi-parabolic equilibrium prole.

Fig. 13. Equilibrium shoreline at high tide sea level.

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Fig. 14. (a) Wave storm from the NW (Hso = 4 m, Tpo = 16 s, High tide sea level); (b) Wave-driven current system. New Gijn harbour geometry.

exterior waves. Nowadays, there are other more complete sources of data, such as the hindcast or re-analysis wave series, which has coupled long-term series (50 years) to a high resolution data (every hour). These data bases supply very important information that in the near future will allow us to dene more precisely some input for the different SMC's models. Regarding the long-term formulations (e.g., the static equilibrium shoreline), the orientation of the mean energy ux on the diffracting points can be dened with great accuracy, and the same is true for the equilibrium prole. It will allow the improvement of long-term analysis and prediction reliability for beach nourishment projects. Furthermore, the re-analysis of wave data will allow the inclusion of the wave persistence effect, an important aspect in morphodynamic beach evolution models from the middle-term scale (months) to the long-term scale (yearsdecades). 5. Conclusions The parabolic bay shape model, as dened by Hsu and Evans (1989), provides a theoretical framework that allows us to under-

stand headland-bay beach morphology dynamics and consequently to predict the impact of engineering projects. Gonzlez and Medina (2001) complemented this theory introducing the equilibrium beach concept, which combines the static equilibrium plan and prole for long-term analysis. While MEPBAY was built concerning purely the original theory, SMC includes Gonzales and Medina's concept. Therefore, the application of MEPBAY to beach analysis needs only the beach planform image. For example, at the pre-design level of a new headland breakwater construction, MEPBAY can be used to rapidly compare a number of different options with various combinations in length and orientation, and identify the best option, the one causing the least erosion. However, MEPBAY does not provide accurate data for the design phase. Its data is extracted exclusively from the image and the quality of the output data depends directly on the image resolution. SMC supports the design phase because it uses numerical methods which increase forecast precision. The SMC software integrates Medina et al. (2001) contribution for the parabolic bay shape equation theory, being necessary for a set of historical input data such as

Fig. 15. Equilibrium shoreline under a new harbour alternative. (Assuming no sand lling on the beach).

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Fig. 16. Equilibrium shoreline under a new harbour alternative. (Assuming a sand lling without shoreline retreat).

Table 1 Bi-parabolic prole coefcients in San Lorenzo Beach for the new harbour geometry. Zone I II III A 0.1450 0.1510 0.1510 B 0.0160 0.0220 0.0180 C 0.1880 0.1800 0.1800 D 0.0150 0.0180 0.0160

The case study using both software at San Lorenzo Beach illustrates how they can be used in a complementary way in pre-design and design phases. While MEPBAY allows rapid experimentation of many project congurations, trying to identify the main trends of morphological changes and choose the best costbenet choice, SMC allows a deeper analysis of the chosen alternative, increasing impact precision forecast by using numerical methods and historical input data. Acknowledgements A. Raabe and A. Klein would like to thank Ariel Vargas for his dedication to the MEPBAY development and also the PROPPEC Research Support at UNIVALI University. M. Gonzlez wishes to express his gratitude to the Spanish Ministry of Science and

bathymetry and wave direction information. In this manner, SMC is more accurate for use at the design phase, however it needs additional input data.

Fig. 17. The designed equilibrium beach plan and its interception with the native bathymetry (application obtained with the SMC). (Assuming a sand lling without shoreline retreat).

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A.L.A. Raabe et al. / Coastal Engineering 57 (2010) 213226 GIOC, 2003b. Spectral wave propagation model (Oluca-SP). State Coastal Ofce-Spanish Environmental Ministry and University of Cantabria. Pgs. 170 pp. (In Spanish). GIOC, 2003i. Wave induce currents model in the surf zone (Copla-SP). State Coastal Ofce-Spanish Environmental Ministry and University of Cantabria. 61 pp. (In Spanish). Gonzalez, M., Medina, R., 1997. Equilibrium beach proles: effects of refraction. Proc. Coastal Dynamics'97. ASCE, pp. 933942. Gonzlez, M., Medina, R., 2001. On the application of static equilibrium bay formulations to natural and man-made beaches. Coast. Eng. 43, 209225. Gonzlez, M., Medina, R., Osorio, A., Lomnaco, P., 2004. Sistema de Modelado Costero, SMC. Proc. XXI Latino American Hydraulic Congress, IAHR, Sao Pedro, Brazil. Gonzlez, M., Medina, R., Losada, M., 2010. On the design of beach nourishment projects using static equilibrium concepts: application to the Spanish coast. Coastal Eng. 57, 227240 (this issue). Hallermeier, R.J., 1981. A prole zonation for seasonal sand beaches from wave climate. Coast. Eng. 4, 253277. Hsu, J.R.C., Evans, C., 1989. Parabolic bay shapes and applications. Proc. Institution of Civil Engineers, London (Part 2), vol. 87, pp. 556570. Hsu, J.R.C., Uda, T., Silvester, R., 2000. Shoreline protection methods Japanese experience. In: Herbich, J.B. (Ed.), Handbook of Coastal Engineering. McGrawHill, New York, pp. 9.19.77. Hsu, J.R.C., Benedet, L., Klein, A.H.F., Tsai, C.P., Hsu, T.W., 2008. Appreciation of static bay beach concept for coastal management and protection. J. Coastal Res. 24 (1), 198215. Hsu, J.R.C., Yu, M.M.-J., Lee, F.-C., Silvester, R., 2009. Handbook of coastal and ocean engineering. In: Kim, Y.C. (Ed.), World Scientic Publ. Co., Singapore, pp. 29.119.18. Hsu, J.R.C., Yu, M.M.-J., Lee, F.-C., Benedet, L., 2010. Static bay beach concept for scientists and engineers: a review. Coastal Eng. 57, 7691 (this issue). Jackson, D.W.T., Cooper, J.A.G., 2010. Application of the planform equilibrium concept to natural beaches in North Ireland. Coastal Eng. 57, 112123 (this issue). Klein, A.H.F., Vargas, A., Raabe, A.L.A., Hsu, J.R.C., 2003. Visual assessment of bayed beach stability using computer software. Computers & Geosciences 29, 12491257. Lausman, R.F., 2006. Uncertainty in the application of Bay Shape Equations. A study on the quantication of the uncertainty in the application of the Parabolic Bay Shape Equation using existing bays. Master thesis, Delft University of Technology, Faculty of Civil Engineering and Geosciences, Section of Hydraulic Engineering. 100 pp (www.library.tudelft.nl). Lausman, R.F., Klein, A.H.F., Stive, M.J.F., 2010. Uncertainty in the application of parabolic bay shape equation: part 1. Coastal Eng. 57, 132141 (this issue). Medina, R., Bernabeu, A.M., Vidal, C., Gonzalez, M., 2000. Relationship between beach morphodynamics and equilibrium proles. Proc. 27th Inter. Conf. Coastal Eng, vol. 3. ASCE, p. 2589-260. Medina, R., Gonzlez, M., Carrin, V., Pea, C., 2001. Anlisis de estabilidad de playas y diseo de regeneraciones mediante el sistema de modelado costero, SMC. Proc. VI Jornadas Espaolas de Ingeniera de Puertos y Costas. Moreno, L.J., Kraus, N.C., 1999. Equilibrium shape of headland-bay beaches for engineering design. Proc. Coastal Sediments'99, vol.1. ASCE, pp. 860875. Muoz-Prez, J.J., Tejedor, I.L., Medina, R., 1999. Equilibrium beach prole model for reef-protected beaches. J. Coast. Res. 15 (4), 950957. Nicholls, R.J., Birkemeier, W.A., Hallermeier, R.J., 1996. Application of the depth of closure concept. Proc. 25th Inter. Conf. Coastal Eng, vol. 4. ASCE, pp. 38743887. Nicholls, R.J., Birkemeier, W.A., Lee, G.H., 1998. Evaluation of depth of closure using data from Duck, NC, USA. Mar. Geol. 148 (34), 179201. Parker, G.F., Quigley, R.M., 1980. Shoreline embayment growth between two headlands at Port Stanley, Ontario. 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Fig. 18. The nourished equilibrium prole and the native prole (see location of the cross-shore prole in Fig. 17).

Technology, under the Ramn y Cajal Program, and the Spanish Comisin Interministerial de Ciencia y Tecnologa (CICYT), under research grant REN2003-9640/MAR. AHFK is appreciative of the support from the Brazilian National Council for Science and Technology (CNPQResearch Fellow) under grant no. 307267/ 2006-7 and also to Hanse Institute for Advanced Study (HWK Fellow), Germany and Erasmus Mundus Visiting Scholar, Delft University of Technology, The Netherlands. References
Benedet, L., Klein, A.H.F., Hsu, J.R.C., 2004. Practical insights and applicability of empirical bay shape equations. Proc. 29th Inter. Conf. on Coastal Eng., ASCE, vol. 2, pp. 21812193. Chiou, H.L., 2004. Application of headland control with nourishment on a Hualien coast. Master Eng. thesis (Supervisor: Hsu, J.R.C.). Dept. Marine Environment and Engineering, National Sun Yat-sen University, Taiwan. 95 pp. (In Chinese). CERC, 2002. Coastal Engineering Manual. Coastal Engineering Research Center, US Army Corps of Engineers. US Government Printing Ofce, Washington, DC. Dean, R.G., 1991. Equilibrium beach proles: characteristics and applications. J. Coast. Res. 7, 5384. Dean, R.G., Maurmeyer, E.M., 1977. Predictability of characteristics of two embayments. Proc. Coastal sediments', vol. 77. ASCE, pp. 848866. GIOC, 2003c. Reference document, Vol. I: coastal hydrodynamics. State Coastal OfceSpanish Environmental Ministry and University of Cantabria. 512 pp. (In Spanish). GIOC, 2003d. Reference document, Vol. II: coastal littoral processes. State Coastal OfceSpanish Environmental Ministry and University of Cantabria. 397 pp. (In Spanish). GIOC, 2003e. Reference document, Vol. III: coastal protection structures. State Coastal Ofce-Spanish Environmental Ministry and University of Cantabria. 290 pp. (In Spanish). GIOC, 2003f. Reference document, Vol. IV: environmental engineering impact for coastal actions. State Coastal Ofce-Spanish Environmental Ministry and University of Cantabria. 164 pp. (In Spanish). GIOC, 2003g. Methodological document, littoral ooding atlas for the Spanish Coast. State Coastal Ofce-Spanish Environmental Ministry and University of Cantabria. 160 pp. (In Spanish). GIOC, 2003h. Coastal Modeling System (SMC)reference and user manual. State Coastal Ofce-Spanish Environmental Ministry and University of Cantabria. 82 pp. (In Spanish). GIOC, 2003a. Methodological document, beach regeneration manual. State Coastal Ofce-Spanish Environmental Ministry and University of Cantabria. 201 pp. (In Spanish).