The curious case of whirling Dervishes of Bijbehara

Author IQBAL AHMAD - Sunday, 19 06 2011 02:26

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It was a beautiful scene and I was one of the luckiest who got a chance to feast eyes on something, which I had been craving for from the last so many years. Yesterday the Urs of Baba Naseeb ud din Gazi (one of the famous Sufi mystics of Kashmir) was celebrated with religious zeal and fervor in South Kashmir. The main event was held at Baba Mohalla in the old Bijbehara town. The entire shrine wore a brides-look as it was illuminated with colorful lights. Thousands of devotees from South Kashmir villages had thronged the tomb of this Sufi saint. The main attraction of the Urs was exhibition of Sufi dance also known as Dhamali Dance. The Dhamali Fakirs performed their traditional dances as the strumming emanating from various musical instruments directly permeated through their bodies, which ignited their worshipping zeal. Clad in their traditional dresses the artists then shook a leg and danced to the tune of musical tones of various instruments. It was a unique pleasure to witness as the Dervishes first stood in circles and then performed their Sufi dance. These dancers have been following the tradition of this saint and had thronged this historic town from the valley corners. The sounds of musical tones and Dhamalies were heard from its interior lanes as well. The little children, men and women were seen enjoying the drum beating. The dance festival is every year held here to mark the birth anniversary of the famous Sufi saint Baba Naseeb Ud Din Gazi , whose tomb lies in the old town at Baba Muhalla. The Dhamali dance in Kashmir is associated with this Sufi saint. Baba is also titled as Abul Fuqra (the father of poor) It is said that the saint had spent his entire life to vouch for downtrodden orphans, poor and the destitute. He is said to have established a huge Langer (free kitchen) for feeding hungry people from all walks of life. He is also known for spreading of Sufi doctrine of Islam and building of Khanqahs and Mosques.A legend states that about 1200 mosques and Khanqas were built by the saint. Although the tradition of Damali dance has lost its pristine glory but it has not faded into oblivion completely , it is still performed here to pay homage to the celebrated saint., besides it is every year held at various Sufi shrines belonging to the Babas school of thought.. A massive demonstration of Dhamali dance is held at Bijbehara to mark the Urs celebrations of this saint. The artists who claim as the followers of this saint and his Sufi teachings are called the damali fakirs , they are received with good honor and respected. These artists usually arrive from Wathura, Imam Sahib, Kalishah Sahib, Parigam, Chambagund and other places and often demonstrate their skill at the site. Besides they also pay homage to their respected Peer(spiritual teacher) while performing Damali at this most famous shrine of South Kashmir. The tradition of Damali dance has actually evolved from the famous tomb of Moulana Rumi which is situated at the town of Konya in Turkey. It is said that his followers and his son Sultan Walad Sultan founded the Mawlawiyah Sufi order, also known as the Order of the Whirling Dervishes, that is famous for its Sufi dance known as the sama ceremony. The people who perform this Sama are called Dervishes and are held in high regard by the Sufis of Turkey.

It is at this Sufi centre that the followers of Rumis school of thought gather at his tomb and present Sama. The followers first make circles and then dance while standing in circular queues. It is said that from here this Sufi practice travelled to central Asian states and at last reached Kashmir. In Kashmir it lost its name to Dervish dance and came to be known as Dhamali dance. Many kashmiri Sufis followed it and promoted in their respective Khanqahs. Baba Naseeb Ud Din Gazi was born in Pakistan and is learnt to have followed the Mawlawiyah Sufi order and adopted it with the aim to gather people for distribution of alms and other public works. Unfortunately, this Darvish or Damali dance could not be preserved in its real form. Gradually it got reshaped and the Dervishes also did not succeed in maintaining its proper sanctity. It turned as one of folk dance of the valley. Besides, the general people and the cultural authorities turned quite indifferent towards this performing art. Its institutions are in shambles while artists performing this art also shifting towards other trades. As such the centuries old Dhamali dance is vanishing from the Kashmir culture.. The Bands or Dhamali artists have given up the art and are searching for greener pastures to sustain their livelihood. The new social order and the indifference of the powers that be, according to the artists, are the causes of decline of the art. Muhammad Ramzan Band, says that gone are the days when Dhamali Faqirs were treated like Peers `The people no longer like the dance and its performers are being treated as inferior as our children do not like to be called sons of Bandas, he added Another Band, Ghulam Rasool while endorsing the views said, `the government never took this art serious and the artists associated with it faced difficult times. The Dhamali institution was never recognized and neither any financial assistance was given to the people associated with the art, It is pertinent to mention here that the artists performing this art should not be looked down upon; they should be respected and honored. At a time, when our culture has taken a back seat owing to official apathy, it is high time that the concerned authorities should come forward and formulate a comprehensive plan and programme for preservation of this glorious art. Feed back at iqbal61@yahoo.co.in

Sufi dervishes are seen dancing at the tomb of Moulana Romi at Konya Turkey ,it is very Similar to that of Dhamali dance held at the Tomb of Baba Naseeb Ud Din Gazi at Bijbehara Kashmir.