Buenos Aires

Where South America Meets Europe

Buenos Aires features cutting-edge designer boutiques, ritzy neighborhoods and grand parks, together with unkempt streets full of spewing buses and bustling fervor. This is a city that never sleeps, bound to enchant travelers with its old-world cafs, colonial architecture, fun outdoor markets and diverse communities. Built by Europeans, this vibrant city overows with energy and brims with attractive residents called Porteos. The food is fresh and innovative, the shopping ranges from designer labels to street hawkers, and nightlife will keep you swinging all night long. Despite a wobbly economy and pesky ination, Buenos Aires is still surprisingly affordable for anyone with hard currency. Porteos display an attitude towards their city comparable with how most people feel about their parents: they criticize it freely themselves but expect others to like and respect it. For most visitors this won't be a problem; Buenos Aires is easy to love and hard to forget. While the belle poque of cattle money, caf society, tango salons and literary grandeur is just a rueful memory, contemporary Buenos Aires has a seize-the-night party spirit and genius for hospitality that more prosperous cities and more genteel eras would nd hard to match.

!Getting there

Buenos Aires Ezeiza International Airport (ofcially Aeropuerto Internacinal Ministro Pistarini), 35kms from the city centre, comprises three terminals, International Terminal A, Terminal B for the national airline Aerolineas Argentinas only, and National Terminal C serving smaller airlines. Free shuttle services operate between Terminals A & B. There is an information desk on the ground oor of Terminal A and tourist information ofces at Terminal A Arrivals and in the baggage reclaim hall in Terminal B Arrivals. Most domestic ights use Aeroparque Jorge Newbery airport, a short distance from downtown BA. Flight information for both airports, in English and Spanish, is available at 5480-6111 or www.aa2000.com.ar.

Romance and passion are synonymous with Argentina and both are represented through the music and dance of the tango. Tango classes are held throughout Buenos Aires and have become a favorite holiday pastime for visitors. Religious passion is also to the fore of everyday life, coupled with a veneration of the dead that is manifested in pilgrimages and spiritual rituals.

Weather
Buenos Aires climate is generally pleasant, with an annual rainfall of 900mm spread evenly throughout the year. The changeable spring, hot and humid summer and mild fall resemble New York Citys seasons, but winter temperatures are moderated by the South Atlantic and for a city with a relatively low latitude (34 37 S) are more comparable to Los Angeles, Sydney or Cape Town. Spring, September to November, is the best time to visit Buenos Aires. Summer, from December to February, is hot and can be unpleasantly humid; autumn months from March to May have pleasant days but with more rainfall than during other seasons; winter months from June to August are cold while spring has lovely sunny days.

Top Attractions
RECOLETA CEMETERY Junn 1790 / +54 11 4804 7040 / Open Hours 7am - 5:45pm M-Sa; 7am-2:30pm Su Many presidents and historic ! gures important in Buenos Aires history are buried here. The architecture styles of the tombs range from neoclassic to art deco and some of the sculptures have been declared national historic monuments. PUERTO MADERO Avenida Alicia Moreau de Justo 200 This area thrives with modern residential and business lofts and ofces, bars, restaurants, an eighttheatre cinema complex, and a university while retaining its original English redbrick facades. The 15block area runs two kilometers along the riverbank dotted with ne dining. Two historic ships from the Argentine Armada, the Corbeta Uruguay and the Fragata Sarmiento, are moored as oating naval museums. SAN TELMO: The neighborhood of San Telmo is an important historic corner of the city. Locals and tourists alike ock to Plaza Dorrego on the oldest street in the city (Calle Defensa) for the antique market and vibrant street performances, including tango, held on Sunday from approximately 10am to 6pm. MALBA (Bs. As. Latin American Arts Museum) Avenida Figueroa Alcorta 3415 / +54 11 4808 6500 / Open Hours Noon-8p M; noon-8p W-F; 10a-7p Sa-Su MALBA aims at promoting Latin American art in all its disciplines. The collection is arranged in such a way to expose the similarities as well as the differences between the artists, other than in chronological order. OBELISCO AND AVENIDA CORRIENTES The Obelisco monolith is a meeting place for political demonstrations, musical performances and celebrations over victories of the national soccer team. Corrientes avenue used to be the center of Porteo nightlife and retains the initial bohemia immortalized in popular lore. In the 1930s it was widened and numerous cinemas, theatres, and restaurants quickly lined its sidewalks. Antique, rare and used bookstores are clustered here as well, interspersed with the traditional Porteo cafes. CASA DE GOBIERNO Y PLAZA DE MAYO Balcarce 50 / +54 11 4343 3050 / Guided tours: 5p M-F The lavish home to the administrative and government seats. The primary entrance is found on Avenida de Mayo. And the pink color paint, ordered by President Sarmiento in 1813, only remains on one side of the building. This building is truly an emblem of the Argentine aristocracies, including those of Pern and his famous wife, Evita. MUSEO CENTRO CULTURAL BORGES Viamonte and San Martn St. / +54 11 43195449 / Open Hours 10am-9pm Mon-Sat; midday-9pm Sun Visual arts, design and media are given a space here in the arena of the Galeras Pacco (Pacic Shopping Gallery). Exhibits, auctions and international competitions are held here in this space named after the Argentine literary icon, Jorge Luis Borges. There are scheduled literary-cafe chats, music cycles and video projections. LA BOCA CAMINITO A stroll through here is sure to thrill for its uniqueness and air of bohemia. Humble dwellings painted in vibrant colors frame the pedestrian street known as el Caminito and immortalized in a tango tune of the same name. Italian cantinas can be found in the surrounding vicinity near the port area. Note: Do not visit after sundown. It is best to use a taxi as transportation to and from this area. MUSEO NACIONAL DE BELLAS ARTES Avenida del Libertador 1473 / +54 11 4803 4691 / Open Hours 12:30p-7:30p Tu & F, 9:30am -7:30pm Sa-Su The Fine Arts Museum includes European masters such as Goya, Renoir, Van Gogh, Rodin and Bourdelle. Works by Argentine masters date from the 19th and 20th centuries, including Juan Carlos Castagnino and Benito Quinquela Martn. There is a library open to the

Shopping
RECOLETA: As city's most expensive neighborhood, the shopping that is offered in Recoleta is highly upscale. This is one of the few areas that has maintained signicant prices even after the fall of the Argentine economy. All the goods there are European quality, with many of the stores actually selling European made clothing and shoes. Patio Bullrich Mall is a delight for both shopping and sightseeing. Many stores are nicely decorated and you may nd the odd luxury bargain. SAN TELMO: Buenos Aires main antiques fair takes place every Sunday (10am-6pm) in the bohemian neighborhood of San Telmo. Established antique vendors line the actual Plaza Dorrego; elsewhere, you will nd jewelry, tango collectibles and other ornaments. DOWNTOWN: Av. Florida is the biggest shopping street in Buenos Aires, lined with clothing, sporting goods, banks, electronics, gifts, cafes, and leather goods stores. The pedestrians-only street is also the home of some of the best bookstores in the city. The Galerias Pacico shopping center is a beautiful multi-level shopping center at the corner of Florida and Cordoba. The mall is quite upscale by Argentine standards and boasts a number of beautiful murals at its center. PALERMO: This neighborhood offers wonderful boutiques that sell very creative items and gifts. The Paseo Alcorta shopping center has chic clothing stores for both sexes along with great cafes and a movie theater. Alto Palermo Shopping Mall is one of the most popular shopping centers in the city. Hundreds of stores, cafes, and a movie theater offer their services to thousands of customers.

The Buenos Aires Subway

Football

The Subte is the fastest and cheapest way to travel in Buenos Aires. Six lines connect commercial, tourist, and residential areas in the city Monday through Saturday from 5am to 11pm, and on Sunday and holidays from 8am to 11pm. These are the ofcial hours, but because of budget cuts, many lines stop running by 10pm. However, they don't always close the stations after the trains have stopped, and you could end up waiting for trains that will never come, so ask someone if a train is running in the direction you need during later hours. Try to ride the A line at least once; it's a tourist attraction in itself. The oldest line, it runs along Avenida de Mayo and uses some of the system's original rickety wooden cars. Lima station, in particular, retains most of the original ornamentation and copies of advertisements from the turn of the 20th century.

Football (soccer) plays an important part in the life of many Argentines. Even those supporters who usually do not attend the matches watch them on television and comment on them the next day with friends and co-workers. When the Argentina national football team plays (especially during world cup matches), streets tend to look completely deserted as everyone is watching the match. If youre in luck you may get to see a professional soccer game. Several tour operators organize guided tours to the stadium. For more information visit: www.vamosalacancha.com

Restaurants & Dining

A barrage of immigration in the 19th century, mostly from Italy and France, have left an indelible mark in Argentinas cuisine. A heaven for carnivores, Argentina boasts world-quality steakhouses and top notch wine to go with it. Dont be fooled by the sheer amount of beef, however, since Argentinean food is much more that just cow + re. Buenos Aires offers excellent dining options for all tastes, and the citys proud Italian ancestry is witness to delicious assortments of pasta, pizza, gelato and several other delicacies from southern Europe. DOWNTOWN Caf Tortoni Traditional cuisine - $ Av. de Mayo 825, +54 (11) 4342-4328, Tango nights require reservation. You cannot come to Buenos Aires and not visit this important porteo landmark. This historic cafe has served as the artistic and intellectual capital of Buenos Aires since 1858, hosting notable guests such as Jorge Luis Borges. This is the perfect spot for a coffee or a small snack when wandering along Avenida de Mayo. Twice-nightly tango shows at 7:30 and 9:30pm in a cramped side gallery where the performers often walk through the crowd are worth stopping in for. Broccolino! ! Italian cuisine - $$ Esmeralda 776, +54 (11) 4322-7754 One of the more traditional Italian restaurants in Buenos Aires, known not only for its excellent pasta dishes, but also other classic antipasto options. It is conveniently located in the city center, about 2 blocks from Galerias Pacco. Filo! ! Italian cuisine - $$ San Martin 975, +54 (11) 4311-0312 Filos menu includes extensive pasta, pizza and salad options. The restaurant has very modern decoration, and often hosts art exhibits. Guerrin ! ! Pizza/empanadas - $ Corrientes 1368, +54 (11) 4371-8141 Arguably one of the best places to eat pizza and empanadas in Buenos Aires. If you are in a hurry you can eat standing up at the bar. Otherwise, there is a large dining space both in the back and upstairs. Morizono Sushi - $$ Reconquista 899, +54(11) 4314-0924 Mon-Sat 12:30 to 15:00, 20:00 to 1:30 Morizono is a place to enjoy the best Japanese cuisine, with rst quality fresh products. It is a warm and minimalist environment, with a wide variety of traditional dishes, including sushi and sashimi. Bokoto Sushi - $$ Huergo 261, +54(11) 4776-6505 / 4775-9588 Open 8pm onward. Sushi libre: All you can eat sushi in Las Caitas area. RECOLETA La Querencia ! Traditional cuisine $$ Junin and Juncal St., +54 (11) 4821-1888 Excellent regional food and service. Please try the great variety of empanadas offered and you will be delighted. A simple and effective place to enjoy food no more words needed. La Cholita Traditional cuisine - $$ Rodriguez Pea 1165, +54 (11) 4815-4506 La Cholita is a very nice place with amusing ambiance (noise and people everywhere). You should be ready to develop your artistic skills over the table as the tablecloth is a white piece of paper (crayons are provided by the staff). Juana M Steakhouse - $ Carlos Pellegrini 1535 (basement), +54 (11) 4326-0462 This amazing little grill is easily overlooked, but you shouldn't miss it. Located in the basement of an orphanage, the menu is simple, high-quality, and amazingly inexpensive, with a free unlimited salad bar with several healthy options. Clsica y Moderna Traditional /coffee shop - $ Callao 892, +54 (11) 4812-8707 This bookshop/restaurant has many light and healthful choices like salads and soy burgers on the menu. Events of all kinds are held here too, from literary readings to plays, dance shows, and art exhibitions. Shows are held Wednesday to Saturday around 10pm, and there are sometimes two shows, the second one beginning after midnight. Show prices are not included in the price of dining. El Cuartito! Pizza/empanadas - $ Talcahuano, +54 (11) 4816-1758 Another excellent option to indulge in the best of the best pizza and empanadas in Buenos Aires. Either arrive early, or plan to wait for a table, as the restaurant lls up fast and offers limited dining space.

PALERMO La Cabrera Steakhouse - $$$ Cabrera 5099, Buenos Aires, +54 (11) 4831-7002 . Reservation necessary. In the shopping-friendly district of Palermo Soho lies this French bistro that takes Argentinas amazing steaks in a new direction, with an impressive array of untraditional side dishes including mashed pumpkin with raisins, beet pure and baked pearl onions in red wine. Guido's Bar Italian cuisine - $$$ Repblica de la India 2843, +54 (11) 4802-2391 In this famous immigrant Bistro there is no menu. The waiters bring a seemingly random assortment of plates, like a cold appetizer of spinach and red bell peppers in a paprika mayonnaise sauce, followed by Spanish tortillas, stuffed eggplants, penne in red sauce and pignoli nuts. How the waiter gures your bill remains a mystery. Olsen Norwegian/Argentine fusion Gorriti 5870, +54 (11) 4776-7677, Reservation recommended. This lovely fusion locale serves great food all day and brunches that last until 8pm. Dishes include herring and smoked salmon with bondiola (pork tenderloin).

Dashi Sushi - $$ Fitz Roy 1613, Palermo Viejo This is a place with oriental spirit and a porteos heart. PUERTO MADERO Cabaa Las Lilas Steakhouse - $$$ Alicia Moreau de Justo 516, +54 (11) 4313-1336 Served here is grass-fed beef, raised on the Pampas. Its different than a lot of the other beef you nd, with a rounder avor, leaner texture and sweet fat. Happening Steakhouse - $$ Alicia Moreau de Justo 310, +54(11) 4319-8712 // 4319-8715 Open every day, 12pm to 2am This Puerto Madero classic restaurant offers a balanced, mature and delicate cuisine that avoids following easy trends. El Mirasol Traditional cuisine - $$ Puerto Madero: Av. Alicia Moreau de Justo 202, +54 (11) 4315-6277 Open every day, 12pm to 2am With its unique atmosphere and silent ambiance, this restaurant is the best choice for business lunches. In the wine list, the top and the latest wine varieties can be found, from the most diverse wineries of Argentina.

SAN TELMO La Brigada Steakhouse - $$ Estados Unidos 465, +54 (11) 4361-5557 This parrilla is reminiscent of the Pampas, with memorabilia of gauchos (Pampas cowboys) lling the restaurant. The best choices include the asado (short rib roast), lomo (sirloin steak, prepared with a mushroom or pepper sauce), baby beef (an enormous 850g/30 oz., served for two), and the mollejas de chivito al verdero (young goat sweetbreads in a scallion sauce). LA BOCA El Obrero Steakhouse - $ Agustin R. Caffarena 64, +54 (11) 4362-9912, Reservation recommended. In this unique steakhouse, lots of Boca Juniors and other sports memorabilia hanging on the walls remind you that you're in one of the most important soccer neighborhoods in the world. Tables ll up rapidly once 9pm hits, so reserve or come earlier than that. Note: El Obrero is one of the best restaurants in Buenos Aires and should not be missed. However, La Boca is considered a dangerous neighborhood to wander around in at night. Use a taxi to get there and back.

Music, Bars and Nightlife

The nightlife in Argentina is quite spectacular and Buenos Aires is a city where the party never stops. Its bars, discos and events are among the worlds liveliest, and there is bound to be something to accommodate every type of visitor, from raucous nightclubs to low-key jazz bars. Keep in mind that venues are sometimes out of the way and far in between, so it is advisable to move around in a taxi whenever possible. IRISH PUBS The Shamrock Rodrguez Pea 1220, Recoleta, +54 (11) 4812-3584 If you are looking for a bar that is packed every night of the week, including a usually quiet Monday, then this is the place to head to. The Kilkenny Marcelo T. de Alvear 399, Downtown, +54 (11) 4312-9179 This trendy cafe-bar is more like a rock house than an Irish pub, although you will still be able to order Guinness, Kilkenny, and Harp draft beers. The Kilkenny offers happy hour from 6-8pm and live bands every night after midnight; it stays open until 5am. NIGHTCLUBS Niceto Club Niceto Vega 5510, Palermo, +54 (11) 4779-9396, If youre looking to dance, head to this consistently trendy multistory venue on an industrial strip lined with auto repair shops. Local bands play before midnight; afterward, D.J.s play psychedelic trance and dance music. The crowd peaks around 3 a.m. Milin Paran 1048, Recoleta, +54 (11) 4815-9925 In a three-story former family mansion, Milins centerpiece is its imposing staircase, which descends from the main oor to a garden. The crowd tends to congregate on it, soaking up the atmosphere on warm evenings while remaining close enough to the bar for rapid rells. It is a magnet for foreigners. JAZZ BARS Thelonious Salguero 1884, Palermo, +54 (11) 4829-1562 Thelonious doesnt look like much from street level, but at the top of a barely marked staircase lies Buenos Aires coolest and most impressive jazz club: a dark, swanky bar that attracts up-and-coming artists from both the Argentine and international scenes. MILONGA CLUBS La Viruta Tango Milonga Armenia 1366, Palermo, +54 (11) 4774-6357 This is one of the most interesting of the milongas because it is authentic, attracting a very young crowd of both porteos and expats from all over the world. Many nights it is just a milonga. Other nights there are shows and competitions, many involving tango, folkloric, and modern dance. BAR-RESTAURANTS Asia de Cuba P. Dealessi 750, Puerto Madero, +54 (11) 4894-1328. Come early for a meal at this supper club and you can then entertain yourself with sophisticated drinking and dancing afterward. El Gran Bar Danzn Libertad 1161, Recoleta, +54 (11) 4811-1108 Tucked away on a rst oor, the Danzn serves tempting cocktails and food in a relaxed atmosphere. Get here early in the evening for happy hour and, with a bit of luck, one of the occasional jazz performances. Congo Honduras 5329, Palermo, +54 (11) 4833-5857 Congo offers customers ve distinct areas: a swanky lounge facing the street, a glitzy bar, a casual section with wooden tables, a garden, and a separate building in the back. On weekends try to arrive early, as most seats are snapped up by 1am and the doormen will not let you in if it is too crowded. Soul Caf Bez 245, Las Caitas +54(11) 4778-3115 Excellent food is combined with 70s and disco music, creating an enjoyable environment for young people. Home Hotel Bar Honduras 5860, +54 11 4778 1008 Selected as one of the worlds top 30 bars by CNN, there's beauty in simplicity at Home Hotel's mellow bar. Next to patches of tall grass and perfectly placed kumquat trees, customers sit on white pod chairs and drink cocktails mixed by pro barmen as a DJ spins cumbia beats. Godoy Restaurant & Cocktail Bar Paraguay 4905, Palermo. +56 11 4116-1923 Godoy is a resto-bar that becomes more of a club on weekends. A favorite among the young argentine crowd, they have a great patio/deck area during the summer.

Health and Safety

Asthma, sinus and bronchial problems can be aggravated by the polluted atmosphere in the major cities.If you have specic conditions (e.g. diabetes) you should bring a sufcient quantity of medical supplies and medicines with you for the trip. While vaccinations are not formally needed for travel to Buenos Aires, you should always seek medical advice before traveling and ensure that all appropriate vaccinations are up to date.

Travel Information
All people entering Argentina must have a passport that is valid for at least six months from the date of entry. Nationals of the USA, Canada, most Western European countries, Australia and New Zealand do not need special travel visas to visit Argentina, but North American citizens will be required to pay a reciprocity fee. This fee can generally be avoided if entering the country by land. For more information check the Entry Visa tab on your Ofcial Trip Website.

Enrique Foster Norte 196, Las Condes, Santiago - Chile. +56 2 7195979, info@theaustralgroup.com www.theaustralgroup.com