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TILE SETTING

METHODOLOGY
1.0 Examine the substrate. It must be free from protrusions, loose particles, grease, dust, and other foreign matters. If not, make use of steel brushes and water to remove the unwanted materials from the surface of the substrate. A clean concrete base makes a good bonding surface for the tile bedding mortar. Establish the correct level of the concrete base. existing elevation marks as references. For floor tile installation, use the

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For t&bs, laundry areas patios and the like, take note of the exact location of floor drains in order to get the correct slope of the floor. Nylon strings can be used as reference lines. Use the leveling bar in establishing these reference lines. Mortar buttons are effective references for the tile surface level. 3.0 4.0 Whenever floor topping is needed prior to tile setting due to difference in elevation, apply concrete topping over tile adhesive spread on the substrate. Mixing of mortar may be done manually. Into the mixing receptacle containing clean water in proportioned volume, add the tile adhesive and the cement in proportioned weight to make a mixture that is sufficient to be used up within 3 to 4 hours. Stir the mixture with a mixing tool, not with the hand. Let the mixture stand for 15 minutes, then mix again briefly. As far as mortar life is concerned, there are such terms called open time and pot life. Open time starts from the moment the mortar has been taken out of the mixing container and applied on the substrate. Tile bedding mortar has an open time of 15 minutes. On the other hand, pot life refers to the span of time measured from completion of mixing until the expiration of the mortar without segregating it from the whole batch of mixture in the mixing board. Tile bedding mortar has a pot life of 3 to 4 hours. A physical check of the mortars plastic and adhesive properties is by way of testing its capacity to stick to the finger of the tile installer. Never use mortar after it has expired, nor mix old mortar with new mixture to avoid shortening the mortars pot life. 5.0 6.0 Wet the surface of the concrete base lightly especially if it is exposed to high temperature or strong winds. Do not soak the tiles in water. Just ensure that the underside of the tile is free from unwanted materials. Water acts as a plastic film on the underside of the tile and destroys the tiles bonding capacity. However, a special treatment is given to 4 x 4 tiles. Since these tiles are small, hence a smaller area for bonding, it is advisable to dip them lightly into clean water and stack them vertically to remove excess water prior to mounting. Apply the tile bedding mortar on the concrete base, not on the underside of the tiles.

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Mortar buttering is not advisable. This wrong method does not guarantee that the mortar is spread evenly and completely covers the underside of the tile. Applying the mortar directly on the concrete base with the use of a notched steel trowel assures that all spaces between the concrete base and the underside of the tile are filled up. Void spaces cause poor bonding of tiles. Spread the mortar over 1 to 2 sq. m. area of concrete base at a time. The ideal mortar bedding thickness is 6 mm or the actual depth of the notch of the trowel. Comb the mortar with the notched steel trowel. In doing so, the tips of the notched trowel must reach the surface of the concrete base or substrate. 8.0 Fix the tiles before the open time of the mortar expires in 15 minutes. To ensure that the mortar bedding completely covers the underside of the tile, move the tile slightly to the right or to the left while pressing it on the mortar bed. 9.0 Fix tile spacers randomly on tile joints. Tile spacers vary as the width of tile joints vary according to the size of the tiles. These spacers may be removed as soon as the tiles are fixed in place. The size of the notches of a trowel varies according to the size of the tile. Narrow notches are perfect for small tiles and wider notches are appropriate for larger tiles. Here is what happens when the wrong kind of notched trowel is used. There are more void spaces left on the underside of the tile. 10.0 There are times when the substrate or concrete base is not leveled or flat. When this happens, even by using the right trowel, the ideal bonding area of the underside of the tile still cannot be attained. Void spaces are still created on some parts of the underside of the tile while the other parts are filled with mortar. What should be done is to combine the methods of mortar trowelling on the substrate and mortar buttering of the underside of the tile. However, it is still highly recommended for the substrate to be prepared as flat and leveled as much as possible. 11.0 To anticipate the expansion of construction joints due to ground movement, make the tile joints as wide as 6 mm to 8mm with embedded backing rod. Top the tile joint with sealant to keep the backing rod in place and impermeable. There are times when the substrate or concrete base is not leveled or flat. When this happens, even by using the right trowel, the ideal bonding area of the underside of the tile still cannot be attained. Void spaces are still created on some parts of the underside of the tile while the other parts are filled with mortar. What should be done is to combine the methods of mortar trowelling on the substrate and mortar buttering of the underside of the tile. However, it is still highly recommended for the substrate to be prepared as flat and leveled as much as possible.

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Continue the procedure for tile installation until the whole area is covered. Execute random checking every 5 sq. m. to determine if the underside of the tiles are fully covered with mortar. Likewise check the physical property of the mortar constantly. Once the mortar reaches the expiration of its open time or its pot life, it should be taken away. Use the leveling bar and the reference lines to maintain the desired level of surface of the tiles.

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Take note of the exact location of fixtures on the walls and floors. Use the tile layout as reference. Cutting or punching of the tiles would be necessary to follow the exact location of fixtures. Assign a skilled crew that will do all the cutting and punching of the tiles.

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For window ledges, and portions where fixtures and other provisions are located, cutting of tiles is necessary. The ideal width of a cut tile is not less than half of its original width. However, for special cases, narrower widths may be tolerable. In tile cutting, always use the right blades. For bigger tiles, hence wider tile joints, use 2 pcs. of 3 mm-thick cutting blades instead of running 1 pc. of blade twice or more along the cutting edge. For aesthetic reasons, the cut or chamfered edges of the tiles must be strategically hidden in such a way that only the smooth and uncut edges would be exposed.

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Corners and edges must be reinforced with PVC tile trim to make them less prone to breaking off. Upon completely covering the whole area with tiles, clean the tiled surface thoroughly and carefully by removing excess mortar using a sponge moistened with clean water. After the tiles have set overnight, the tile grout can be applied. In a non-absorbent receptacle, mix the tile grout with clean water in proportioned volume. Blend the mixture thoroughly with a mixing tool, not with the hand. Let the mixture stand for 15 minutes, then mix again until a velvety, watery uniformity is attained. The pot life of the mixed tile grout is 1 hour. Never mix old grout paste with newly mixed paste to avoid shortening the pot life of the grout mixture. Do not mix various colors of grout powder to attain different shades.

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Dampen the tile joints with a sponge, but do not allow standing water on the areas to be grouted. Spread the tile grout paste diagonally across the tile joints with the use of a rubber float or trowel. Apply the paste with enough pressure to fill the joints evenly. A rubber sandal cut straight at one side may be considered as an improvised tool, but the convenience and the effectivity of the rubber float or trowel is highly notable. Depending on the size and the installation of the tiles, 2 kgs. of tile grout powder can cover approximately 4 to 5 sq.m.

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After 5 minutes, the residual paste on the tile will begin to create a foggy tile surface. Use a wet sponge to apply the same diagonal strokes across the joints until the grout paste is flush with the tiles. Wash the sponge and wring it out to remove as much water as possible. Run the sponge lightly along the tile grout lines. This will eliminate the

dried residues on the tile surface and the tile grout lines to expose the true color of the grout. 21.0 22.0 23.0 Protect the finished work by setting up barriers and coverings. Let it stand for at least 24 hours before opening to normal traffic. Clean all tools and equipment immediately after work. Clean up residual mortar before it dries up inside the mixing container. Make a thorough inspection of the finished work. For sloping tiled floors, like t&bs, patios, laundry rooms and other open areas, check the slope by using gravity test with water. Remove the lights at the tile setting areas only upon completion of thorough inspection. This saves time on reinstalling the lights if they had been removed with some more unfinished work to be done.

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