The How to Crochet Guide.

Starting to Crochet

Holding the hook and yarn Everyone has their own personal way of holding the hook and controlling the yarn in crochet. Right handers hold the hook in their right hand, usually as though it were a pencil, (Fig.79), or in a firmer overhand grip (Fig.80). The left hand holds the work and at the same time controls the yarn supply. The left hand middle finger is used to manipulate the

yarn, while the index finger holds onto the work (Fig.81). To maintain the slight tension in the yarn necessary for easy, even working, it can help to arrange the yarn around the fingers of the left hand as shown in Fig 82. Left handers Prop the book up next to a mirror, so you can see the illustrations in mirror image, while still being able to read the text from the original page.

begin with a loop secured by a slipknot. Making a slip knot Follow instructions given for Making a Slip Knot. Chain stitch (ch) 1. Wrap the yarn over the hook in an anticlockwise direction (or hold the yarn still and manoeuvre the hook) (Fig.83).

The Basic Stitches

The foundation chain (or base chain) Almost all crochet starts with a foundation (or base) chain. This is the equivalent of casting on in knitting. The base chain is a series of chain stitches, which normally

2. Draw the yarn through to form a new loop without tightening up the previous one (Fig.84).

Note: Unless otherwise specified, always wrap the

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yarn this way round. To make a length of base chain, make as many chains as required. Keep shifting your left hand position up close to the hook every couple of stitches or so; this is easy, if you use a right hand finger tip to hold down the loop on the hook, while you do so. To count chains correctly as you make them, do not count the initial slip loop as a chain. To count them afterwards, first make sure that they are not twisted and that you are looking at the front (see Figs 85 and 86), then count back, but ignore the loop still on the hook.

Slip stitch (sl st)

1. Insert the hook into 2nd chain from hook, wrap the yarn over the hook, draw the yarn through the chain and the loop on the hook in one movement - 1 sl st made (Fig.87).

2. Repeat this last step (Fig.88). Double crochet (dc) 1. Insert the hook into 2nd chain from hook, wrap the yarn over the hook and

draw the yarn through the chain only (Fig.89).

2. Wrap the yarn again and draw the yarn through both loops on hook (Fig.90) - 1 dc made (Fig.91).

2. Wrap the yarn over the hook, draw through the chain only and wrap the yarn again (Fig.93). 3. Draw through all 3 loops on hook - 1 htr made (Fig.94).

Half treble (htr) 1. Wrap the yarn over the hook and insert the hook into 3rd chain from the hook (Fig.92). Treble (tr) 1. Wrap the yarn over hook

and insert hook into 4th chain from hook (Fig.95).

2. Wrap the yarn over the hook, draw through the chain only and wrap the yarn again (Fig.96).

Double treble (dtr) 1. Wrap the yarn over the hook twice and insert hook into 5th chain from hook (Fig.99).

3. Draw through the first 2 loops only and wrap the yarn again (Fig.97).

2. Wrap the yarn over the hook, draw through the chain only and wrap the yarn again (Fig.100).

4. Draw through the last 2 loops on the hook - 1 tr made (Fig.98).

3. Draw through the first 2 loops only and wrap the yarn again (Fig.101).

4. Draw through the next 2 loops only and wrap the yarn again (Fig.102).

2. Wrap the yarn over the hook, draw through the chain only and wrap the yarn again (Fig.105).

5. Draw through the last 2 loops on hook - 1 dtr made (Fig.103). 3. Draw through the first 2 loops only and wrap the yarn again (Fig.106), then repeat this last step twice more (Fig.107). Triple treble (ttr) 1. Wrap the yarn over hook 3 times and insert the hook into 6th chain from hook (Fig.104).

6, etc, times over the hook at the beginning and by wrapping and drawing through 2 loops more times to complete the stitch.
Fastening Off

4. Draw through the last 2 loops on hook - 1 ttr made (Fig.108).

To fasten off the working yarn permanently, make one chain, cut the yarn about 5 cms away, draw through the loop and tighten - this will prevent unraveling. With a yarn needle, weave the tail through the stitches of the fabric to hide it.
Working in Rounds

Longer Basic Stitches Longer basic stitches usually called Quadruple Treble (quad tr), Quintuple Treble (quin tr), Sextuple Treble (sext tr), etc - are made by wrapping the yarn 4, 5,

1. To work in rounds make 3 or more chains (the exact number depends on the design) and join them into a ring by inserting the hook into the first of them and making a slip stitch (Fig.116).

the stitches in the previous round, unless otherwise directed (Fig.118).

2. To begin each round make a starting chain (the equivalent of a turning chain - see above) to match the height of the stitches of the round. Insert the hook always into the centre of the base chain ring to work the stitches of the first round (Fig.117).

4. When each round is complete insert the hook into the top of the starting chain and make a slipstitch to join the round (Fig.119).

3. From the second round insert the hook under the top 2 loops of

Note: Unless otherwise specified, do not turn the work between rounds, but continue with the same side facing and treat this as the right side of the fabric. To fasten off after making the slipstitch,
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which completes a round, do not make another chain. 1. Cut the yarn and draw the end through to the front (Fig.120).

2. Insert the hook again from the back through the place in the fabric where the slip stitch was worked (but not through the slip stitch loop itself) and draw the end of the yarn once again through to the back. (Fig.121). Tighten gently

Most crochet stitch patterns are made up of basic stitches. However different effects can be created by varying slightly just one stage in the standard stitch-making procedure, for example the position of the basic stitch and/or manner of inserting the hook into the fabric. There are many variations and combinations and these are usually given with the pattern. Working under one loop only Inserting the hook under one top loop only, either the back loop (Fig.122) or the front loop (Fig.123), leaves the other loop exposed as a horizontal bar. Depending upon which stitches are picked out in this way, horizontal ridges of woven effects can be created. The fabric also tends to become more elastic.

Stitch Variations
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stitch to the right. Pull the yarn through twisting the hook to face upwards at the same time (Fig.124).

Corded or Reversed Double Crochet Corded double crochet is used as a decorative texture or edging. It consists of working double crochet stitches in the wrong direction, i.e. from left to right for right-handers. After a right side row do not turn. 1. Always starting with the hook facing downwards insert the hook back into the next

2. Wrap the yarn and draw through to finish off the double crochet normally (Fig.125).

3. Insert hook ready for next stitch (Fig.126).

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4. The direction of working causes the stitches to twist and create the decorative effect (Fig.127)

Tension

Making a tension swatch is just as important in crochet as it is in knitting. The tension is also specified as a

number of stitches and a number of rows to a given measurement, for example: 20 sts and 22 rows = 10 cms square measured over double crochet on 3.50mm hook. The hook size suggested is the one the designer will have used to work out the instructions on the basis of the given tension and the one most knitters will use to achieve this tension. However, it is the tension that is important and not the hook size. Work a tension swatch of 20 sts plus 2 (the 2 end stitches are slightly distorted and should not be included when checking a tension), and 22 rows in length. Fasten off. Lay this swatch down on a flat surface and measure it first horizontally within first and last stitch for stitch tension (Fig.128 - Note: diagram shows only 5 cms) and then vertically for row tension (Fig.129). If your
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square has too few stitches or rows to the measurement, your tension is too loose and you should try again with a size smaller hook. If it has too many stitches try a size larger hook

In a fabric made of solid, basic stitches, such as double crochet (Fig.130) or treble (Fig.131), increases are made simply by working 2 or more stitches into one stitch at either or both ends of a row. (Note that this method of working several stitches into the same stitch is also used to create many different effects and instructions are always given in crochet patterns).

Decreasing

Increasing

Decreases are usually made by working 2 or more stitches together. (Note: the same methods
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of working 2 or more stitches together are used to create a multitude of pattern stitches and these are always given in crochet patterns). Working 2 double crochet stitches together (dc2tog) 1. Insert the hook into next stitch (or as required), wrap the yarn round the hook, and draw a loop through (Fig.132).

3. Wrap the yarn and draw through all 3 loops on hook - 1 double crochet decreased (Fig.134).

2. Repeat this step into the next stitch, (3 loops on hook) (Fig.133).

Working 3 double crochet stitches together (dc3tog) Work as for dc2tog until there are 3 loops on hook. 1. Insert hook into a third stitch, wrap the yarn and draw through a loop, (4 loops on the hook) (Fig.135).

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2. Wrap the yarn and draw through all 4 loops on hook - 2 double crochet decreased (Fig.136).

2. Repeat this step into the next stitch, (3 loops on the hook) (Fig.138).

Working 2 treble stitches together (tr2tog) 1. Wrap the yarn round the hook, insert the hook into the next stitch (or as required), wrap the yarn, draw a loop through, wrap the yarn and draw through 2 of the loops on hook (2 loops left on the hook) (Fig.137).

3. Wrap the yarn and draw through all 3 loops on hook - 1 treble decreased. Working 3 treble stitches together (tr3tog) Work as for tr2tog until there are 3 loops on hook, repeat step 1 once more, wrap yarn and draw through all 4 loops on hook (Fig.139) - 2 trebles decreased (Fig.140).

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Buttonholes

Horizontal buttonholes in crochet are very easily made by working chains in place of double crochet, treble, or whichever stitch is involved (Fig.141). On the next row, double crochet or treble stitches are worked as into a foundation chain (Fig.142).

Vertical buttonholes are worked by dividing the work into two sections at the position of the buttonhole and working an equal number of rows on each side, then joining up by working across all stitches (Fig.143).

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Joining yarns and working with colour

Joining in a yarn You will often need to join a new ball in the middle of the work, when the old ball runs out. Then just as you make the final yarn over to complete a stitch, simply drop the old yarn, make a loop with the new one, pick this up and draw through to complete. Hold down both short ends temporarily until you have worked the next stitch. A knot or splice is unnecessary. To join in yarn because the pattern has involved fastening off in one place and rejoining in another,

or to begin an edging, insert the hook into the appropriate place. Loop the yarn over the hook, draw through and make 1 chain (Fig.144). However if you feel it would be more secure, make the first loop with a slip knot as though for starting a base chain. If you are making a solid fabric (double crochet shown here), lay the new yarn in advance across the top of the stitches ahead and work over it (Fig.145), and after the change work over the end of the old yarn (Fig.146). This saves later darning in time.

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or changing from one yarn to another for reasons of colour (treble shown here), you drop the old colour and pick up the new one before you complete the last stitch in the old colour (Fig.147) so that the loop on the hook afterwards is already in the new colour (Figs 148 and 149).

Changing colour When you are joining in,

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When you are working whole rows in different colours, make the change during the last stitch in the row, so the new colour for the next row is ready to work the turning chain
Finishing

Joining motifs Many household items such as place mats, tablecloths, etc. can consist of several motifs joined together. Depending upon their shape, some motifs (such as squares, hexagons, etc.) fit together exactly. Others

leave interesting spaces, which may be joined along the edges that touch by sewing or crochet. There are many ways of joining such motifs and these will depend on the finished effect required and instructions are usually given with patterns. Joining seams Pieces of crochet can be joined together by a flat stitch (Fig.150) (backstitching would make the seam very thick and unsightly), or by mattress stitching (Fig.151). Crochet stitches sometimes have no particular right side, therefore you should make a decision in respect of all separate pieces of the same article, so that the grain of the rows can match exactly when you join the pieces together.

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Filet Crochet

Filet crochet should also be mentioned here as it is an art in itself and most popular in Southern Europe, where women, young and old, sit on

their doorstep and create the most beautiful table cloths, bedspreads and even curtains in the finest cotton! Filet crochet is based on a simple network with a regular square grid usually made of treble and chain stitches. Pattern instructions are usually presented in the form of squared charts, representing a view of the finished fabric, in which the vertical lines represent treble stitches and the horizontal ones (top of the rows) chain stitches. Designs of all kinds are created by filling in some of the squares (or spaces) with treble stitches instead of chains (Figs 152 and 153). These charts are read in the same general way as fairisle charts, that is working from the bottom upwards and to and fro, and a key is always given

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showing you what each square represents.

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