Parts of a Circuit Breaker Parts of a Circuit Breaker In a perfect world, a building would be wired for electricity, and every

time we turned on a switch, the electricity we needed would flow through the wires without interruption and operate the radio, lamp or hair dryer. In the real world, however, problems crop up from time to time, and the smooth flow of electricity through wires and cords can hit an obstacle, called a "fault." Circuit breakers are needed to stop the flow of electricity in the event of a fault, to avoid damage to the lamp or appliance, injury to a bystander or even a fire. Related Searches: Circuit Breaker and Fuse Vacuum Circuit Breaker Types of Faults There are two main types of electrical faults: overloads and short circuits. An overload is caused by a lightning strike or another source of a power surge---perhaps the malfunction of another device on the same electrical circuit---resulting in overheating of the wires. A short circuit occurs when the path of electricity is diverted from what was intended. One of the most dangerous characteristics of electricity is that it follows the shortest path to ground. It will find that path if there is even a tiny hole in the cord, and your lamp won't turn on because of this electricity "leak." A Circuit Sample home wiring diagram After it enters your home or office, electricity is divided up among all of the circuits that exist behind the walls to serve the electric appliances and devices that are plugged in. For example, there may be a circuit for one bathroom, multiple circuits for the kitchen because of the demand of the many appliances and one to serve a couple of bedrooms. Circuit Breaker Cutaway of a molded case circuit breaker In a typical home or small business, a circuit breaker box---it looks like a metal cabinet---hangs on a wall in the basement, garage or closet near to where electricity enters the building. Inside the box is a number of switches, much like those used to turn on a light. This is where the electricity that comes into the building is divided among all the building's circuits; each circuit has its own switch (shown at top of image). Under normal conditions, electricity enters at the terminal connector through a connecting wire, flows through the closed contacts, exits the breaker and continues on its journey through its particular circuit. There are two common ways that a dangerous fault is detected: either a bimetallic strip senses too much heat and bends, tripping the mechanism that holds the circuit shut, or an electromagnet reacts to too much electric flow by increasing its magnetism, which pulls on the metal mechanism that keeps the circuit closed. In both cases, the contact is lost and the flow of electricity stops immediately. At the same time, the electricity will "arc," or spark, between the contact points, and an important function of the circuit breaker is to extinguish the arc. Obviously, the inner components of a circuit breaker must be able to withstand high temperatures because of the heat produced by the process, and they must be made of an effective conductor of electricity, usually copper or a copper or silver alloy. Types of Circuit Breakers Although a molded case circuit breaker (shown at top) is the most common residential breaker, there are many sizes of circuit breakers, each designed to handle a particular amount of electricity, called "load." For instance, factories use circuit breakers very much different from those used in a typical home. There are even circuit breakers that serve the electric load of entire neighborhoods. The method of arc control is a major distinguisher among the varying nonresidential types. Caution You should try to determine the cause of the tripped circuit breaker response before attempting to turn the switch back to the closed position. Was there a lightning strike? Did someone connect a power-hungry machine to the household electric supply? In the example of the lamp with a hole in its cord, someone may have heard a pop or smelled something burning, or you may have an idea that the lamp was the culprit because the breaker opened, or "tripped," right at the moment you turned the switch. Don't tamper with the circuit breaker, because it is energized, or "hot." Instead, call a qualified professional if the cause isn't readily apparent. Standards Industrial circuit-breakers must comply with IEC 60947-1 and 60947-2 or other equivalent standards. Domestic-type circuit-breakers must comply with IEC standard 60898, or an equivalent national standard For industrial LV installations the relevant IEC standards are, or are due to be: 60947-1: general rules 60947-2: part 2: circuit-breakers 60947-3: part 3: switches, disconnectors, switch-disconnectors and fuse combination units

60947-4: part 4: contactors and motor starters 60947-5: part 5: control-circuit devices and switching elements 60947-6: part 6: multiple function switching devices 60947-7: part 7: ancillary equipment For domestic and similar LV installations, the appropriate standard is IEC 60898, or an equivalent national standard. Description Figure H24 shows schematically the main parts of a LV circuit-breaker and its four essential functions: The circuit-breaking components, comprising the fixed and moving contacts and the arc-dividing chamber The latching mechanism which becomes unlatched by the tripping device on detection of abnormal current conditions This mechanism is also linked to the operation handle of the breaker. A trip-mechanism actuating device: - Either: a thermal-magnetic device, in which a thermally-operated bi-metal strip detects an overload condition, while an electromagnetic striker pin operates at current levels reached in short-circuit conditions, or - An electronic relay operated from current transformers, one of which is installed on each phase A space allocated to the several types of terminal currently used for the main power circuit conductors Fig. H24: Main parts of a circuit-breaker Domestic circuit-breakers (see Fig. H25) complying with IEC 60898 and similar national standards perform the basic functions of: Isolation Protection against overcurrent Fig. H25: Domestic-type circuit-breaker providing overcurrent protection and circuit isolation features Some models can be adapted to provide sensitive detection (30 mA) of earth-leakage current with CB tripping, by the addition of a modular block, while other models (RCBOs, complying with IEC 61009 and CBRs complying with IEC 609472 Annex B) have this residual current feature incorporated as shown in Figure H26. Fig. H26: Domestic-type circuit-breaker as above (Fig. H25) with incorparated protection against electric shocks Apart from the above-mentioned functions further features can be associated with the basic circuit-breaker by means of additional modules, as shown in Figure H27; notably remote control and indication (on-off-fault). Fig. H27: Multi 9 system of LV modular switchgear components Moulded-case circuit-breakers complying with IEC 60947-2 are available from 100 to 630 A and provide a similar range of auxiliary functions to those described above (see Figure H28). Fig. H28: Example of a Compact NSX industrial type of circuit-breaker capable of numerous auxiliary functions Air circuit-breakers of large current ratings, complying with IEC 60947-2, are generally used in the main switch board and provide protector for currents from 630 A to 6300 A, typically.(see Figure H29). In addition to the protection functions, the Micrologic unit provides optimized functions such as measurement (including power quality functions), diagnosis, communication, control and monitoring. Fig. H29: Example of air circuit-breakers. Masterpact provides many control features in its Micrologic tripping unit

What is INCANDESCENT BULB?

An incandescent bulb is any electric light bulb that directly emits light (photons) by means of heating a filament to the point of incandescence. Confusingly, it is now generally accepted in the lighting industry that Incandescent bulbs are specifically vacuum filament bulbs or inert gas filament bulbs EXCEPT for halogen gas bulbs and xenon gas bulbs. Typical parts of an incandescent bulb are; glass, filament, base, exhaust tube, stem press, lead-in wires, fuse, heat-deflecting disc, button, support wires.

All oxygen gas must be removed from the bulb or it will quickly burn out. Either air is removed by vacuum then bulb is sealed where bulb is under vacuum it's entire life, or all oxygen is replaced by an inert gas (argon/nitrogen mixture is commonly used). To remove the rest of the oxygen a "getter" is used. Inert gas is used on nearly all bulbs 40 watts and over. When a filament is heated, a small amount of tungsten metal particles boils off which condense as black soot on glass areas and internal supports which are cooler. Over time the light output of the bulb is reduced because of the dark sooty build-up of tungsten particles on the glass partially blocking light from escaping the glass envelope. An interesting fact is that light output actually increases a little during the first part of bulbs life (before the soot build-up). In vacuum bulbs, there isn't any convection current so bulb sooting is more evenly dispersed. In inert gas filled bulbs, a convention current takes place and the majority of soot condenses directly above the heated filament. On bulbs that are designed for use in any burn position, when operated "base-up" position, convection current will deposit a majority of the soot in the neck, leaving the main bulb chamber much clearer. Some gas filled bulb include metal screens or grids placed directly above the filament designed for capturing soot so the glass stays clearer. Some specialty bulbs purposely include the addition of tungsten granules allowing the user the ability to physically shake the bulb clean by mechanically cleaning (sanding) away most of the soot (powdered soot and tungsten granules lay at the bottom harmlessly. As tungsten metal boils off, the filament gets thinner and an effect called "notching" occurs. The filament doesn't randomly get thinner. Tungsten vapor boils off more rapidly from the hottest sections of the filament thereby causing those areas to get thinner quicker, which then causes those sections to raise in temperature. In other words, the thinnest parts of a filament are the sections that keep getting thinner the quickest. As the filament gets thinner, it eventually burns out. Also, it should be obvious that the thinner a filament gets, the more fragile and susceptible to physical (and electrical) shock which may cause the ruin of the bulb prematurely. Tungsten filament bulbs can be specially designed to take advantage of some special physical and chemical reactions with halogen (Tungsten halogen cycle, or Halogen Bulb) or xenon gas (xenon bulb) to improve performance in certain applications. OCTAGON AND ROUND ELECTRICAL BOX Typical Size: 1-1/2" to 2-1/8 Deep Usage: Typically used for installation of ceiling or wall mounted light fixtures up to 50 pounds; May be used as a Junction box; Metal box may also be used as a switch or outlet box in surface mounted installations using metal conduit; Round plastic box usually has "ears" for fastening to wall or ceiling in existing or "old work" applications. SQUARE, OCTAGON AND ROUND BOX COVERS

Usage: Covers are used to close an outlet box and are required by code. Never leave a box uncovered. Switches or receptacles may be installed into square or octagon boxes by using covers with cutouts; Octagon or round covers are used for mounting light fixtures; Raised 4 square covers are used for mounting switches or receptacles; Flat round closure plates (5) are designed for use in dry locations to close unused ceiling outlets. JUNCTION BOX Typical Size: 4" Square; 1-1/4"- 2-1/8" Deep Usage: A junction box is an electrical box used to run multiple conductors in two or more directions to bring power to various electrical devices. Junction boxes are required to be installed so they are always accessible; Never install a junction box in a concealed wall or ceiling space where is can not be accessed in the future. Wire connectors (wire nuts) and wire lengths take up a lot of space in a box. Because square boxes provide maximum volume for multiple conductors and connectors they are most often used as a junction box. Metal and Plastic Electrical Boxes Example of Metal and Plastic Electrical Box Throughout this tutorial you will see examples of metal boxes and plastic boxes. If you are using metal conduit to run wiring to the electrical box, then a metal box is required because the conduit and metal box system itself may be used to ground the system. If you are using non-metallic wiring Type NM-B (nonmetallic-sheathed cable) which is typically found in residential applications as branch circuits for outlets, switches, lighting and so on, then you can use either plastic boxes or metal boxes as long as the cable is secured to the box. With NM-B, grounding occurs with a dedicated wire made part of the cable. Type NM-B electrical cable is the most common way to wire a home and you may hear it referred to generically as Romex. However Romex is a brand name of Southwire Co. for NM cable just as Kleenex is often used to describe facial tissue. Metal boxes come in types known as: Drawn Steel (1 piece construction); Interlocked / Gangable (typically for switch and outlet boxes). Plastic boxes can be made from different types of molded plastic and are always 1 piece construction. They can be made from: PVC (most common); Phenolic Resin; Fiberglass. Now let's take a look at the various types of ceiling and wall electrical boxes you find in the home. Junction box From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia Electrical junction box in the process of installation. Electrical conduits and cables meet inside the box. A metal junction box An electrical junction box is a container for electrical connections, usually intended to conceal them from sight and meter tampering. A small metal or plastic junction box may form part of an electrical conduit wiring system in a building, or may be buried in the plaster of a wall, concealed behind an access panel or cast into concrete with only the lid showing. It sometimes includes terminals for joining wires. A similar container used for joining wires to electrical switches or sockets is called a pattress. The term may also be used for a larger item such as a piece of street furniture. In the UK, this is sometimes called a cabinet. See Enclosure (electrical). Junction boxes form an integral part of a circuit protection system where circuit integrity has to be provided, as for emergency lighting or emergency power lines, or the wiring between a nuclear reactor and a control room. In such an installation, the fireproofing around the incoming or outgoing cables must also be extended to cover the junction box to prevent short circuits inside the box during an accidental fire. Quick Details Type: Other Plastic Building Materials Place of Origin: Philippines Brand Name: Atlanta Model Number: Safti Specifications Atlanta PVC Electrical Wire Mouldings > Used to hide exposed electrical wiring for better aesthetics and safety.

Advantages Higher insulation resistance Higher dielectric strength Easy to install Non flammable and rust proof Available in both White and Gray Color Sizes 3/8 inch 1/2 inch 5/8 inch 3/4 inch 1 inch 11/2 inches Length : 8 feet Introduction: Types of Switches The switch is one of the most basic yet important electrical devise in the home. Although they almost all look the same once the face plate is on, they can function very differently. Their are a few key types of switches you need need to know about and I'll describe them in this tutorial. Switches can come in a toggle style (like those shown in this tutorial), but can also come in a more design oriented "rocker" or "paddle" style such as those made popular by the Leviton "Decora". Leviton Decora Paddle Switch The style makes no difference to the function of the switch. But what does matter significantly is the switch type. Switches come in four major types:

Let's take a look at each type, what makes them different and when you would use them. Single Pole Switch The single pole switch is the general purpose workhorse of switches. Single pole switches turn a light, receptacle or device on and off from a single location. A characteristic of a single pole toggle switch is that it has an on and off marking on the switch, something you will not find on a three or four way switch. Make sure the switch is wired in the correct direction so the words "on" and "off" are facing correctly. A single pole switch has two terminals and is wired to the hot (black) wire. One brass colored terminal is for the incoming hot wire and the other is for the outgoing hot wire to the device. The switch may or may not come with a ground terminal (green screw). As a general rule, you never wire the switch to the neutral wire. Please note, sometimes you may see a white wire attached to the single pole switch but only when it is functioning as a hot wire. In those cases the white wire should have a wrap of black tape on it near the switch terminal to let one know the wire is a hot wire and not a neutral wire.