Lalru

1.
TEXTILE INDUSTRY IN INDIA

Industries have a major role to play in the economic development of underdeveloped countries. Textile industry is the one of the oldest industries existing till date. Although, initially this industry catered to the needs to cover the Human Beings, but its importance and significance groomed in Egyptian Civilization. For the most of recorded history, mankind has relied on natural fabrics, particularly cotton, linen, wool and silk for textile products. In addition, the technology of fabric manufacture was relatively simple. In India also, the textile industry revolved around these natural fibers spun and woven on handlooms. The production was mainly to cater to the parts. Gradually, India mastered in the textile industry and its textile products gained famed worldwide. It was only after industrial revolution in England, when machine substituted man and production started on large basis. However, the demand could not grow up in the same proportion and India suffered due to unbalance between demand and supply, thus ultimately resulting in lower prices. However with the advent of industrial revolution, the textile industry in India begins to rise due to open government policies and import of technical know-how and machinery. During the past few decades, the textile industry has gone through a period of unprecedented changes. The production of manmade fibers and their use in industry has surpassed that of natural fibers. The twentieth century customer has choice among linen, wool, rayon, silk, nylon, acrylic, polyester, etc. And also wide range of different blended fibers. Today, the textile industry applies scientific parameters to optimize production so as to develop textile products to meet specific consumer needs and demands.
1 Nahar Industrial Entp. Ltd.,Fabric Unit-2, Lalru.(Punjab.)
Changing fashions and desire for better quality have boosted the textile industry in recent years. With increasing population, demand for fabric is rapidly increasing and new units are being established while the existing ones are going for mass expansion and modernization.
2. INTRODUCTION TO NAHAR GROUP

NAHAR GROUP, established in 1949 with Oswal Woolen Mills, Ludhiana, surges a head in establish itself as a repudiated industrial conglomerate with a wide range from spinning, knitting, fabrics, hosiery, garments, soaps, vegetable oils and sugar.
2.1 NAHAR GROUP OF COMPANIES INCLUDES:

. . Oswal Woolen Mills Limited.
Nahar Spinning Mills Limited.
Nahar Export Limited.
Nahar Industrial Enterprises Limited
Nahar International Limited
Nahar Sugar and Allied Industries Limited
2.2 OSWAL WOLLEN MILLS LIMITED, (OWM)

OSWAL WOOLEN MILLS LTD is the Flagship Company of over US$500 millions NAHAR GROUP OF COMPANIES Oswal Woolen Mills NAHAR GROUP, established in 1949 surges ahead to establish it self as a reputed industrial conglomerate with a wide ranging portfolio from Spinning, Knitting, Fabric, Hosiery Garments Etc. The group has spinning capacity of 0.4 millions cotton spindles 25000 worsted spindles with turn over of $500 million inclusive of export turnover of $150 million. Out of total production, 60% of the production is dedicated to exports and the rest 40% for domestic market. The production facility has been awarded ISO 9001:2000. By spinning knitting yarns perfectly in keeping with global trends towards easy care, warmth & lively feels, OWM is leading the way in hosiery manufacturing, offering worsted dyed yarns, acro-wool, blended yarns, fancy yarns & wool polyamide combinations for velvety looks. Today OWM is the flagship company of the glorious Oswal Empire and a proud owner of widely loved Super Brands in Knitwear, Monte Carlo and Canterbury. The company boasts of a product range that is truly large and varied. They include diverse types of Woolen, Acrylic and Synthetic Blended Yarns, Lambs Wool Yarn, Woolens Viscose & Acrylic Tops, Textile Fabric, Woolens Knitwear, Hosiery & Cotton Garments. The markets of NAHAR GROUP are cris crossed allover the globe with major clientele in Australia, New Zealand, Europe, Middle East, Africa, Russia and Asia . The objective is meeting the buyers expectations with consistent quality backed by R & D divisions equipped with latest equipment, Cream of highly qualified technocrats and adhering to timely schedules
2.3 NAHAR SPINNING MILLS LIMITED

NSM has installed capacity of 93408 spindles with total production of 13077 Metric ton of Cotton / Synthetic blended Yarn. The performance of the spinning division has shown upward trend vis--vis production and sale of Cotton Yarn and Synthetic Yarn. The Company has 93408 spindles for the manufacture of Cotton / Synthetic & Blended Yarns. The company has also put up a Mercerizing cum Dyeing plant at village Lalru, Patiala for the manufacture of High Value Added Yarn, for the quality conscious market of U.S. & European Union. The capacity of the plant is 2040 M.T. The Garment Division contributed Rs. 133.73 crores towards the revenue of the company as against Rs 200.95 crores in the previous year. The lower allocation of quotas for the second half of the financial year adversely affected the performance of the segment. The stiff global competition coupled with demand shrinkage from overseas buyers also adversely affected the Exports as well as operating margins, resulting lower profits before tax at Rs. 4.38 crores as against Rs. 12.67 crores in the previous year. Expansion Plans: Keeping in view the emerging opportunities arising out of the quota free global trade w.e.f. 1st January 2005, the Management has decided to invest Rs. 112.45 crores in the capacity expansion. The company shall be putting up an Ultra Modern Spinning and Knitting cum Dyeing Plant with a capacity of 25000 spindles at village Lalru, Patiala. The expansion shall be financed by way of term loan of Rs. 80 crores from the Financial Institutions under Tuff scheme and balance form the internal accounts of the company. The management is quite optimistic that enhanced capacity will enable the company to improve its financial performance in the coming years.
Works: Industrial Area A, Ludhiana, (Punjab) Dhandari Kalan, G.T.Road, Ludhiana (Punjab) Village Simrai, Mandideep, Distt. Raisen (M.P.) Village Lalru, Distt. Patiala (Punjab) Village Jalalpur, Distt. Patiala (Punjab)
2.4 NAHAR EXPORTS LTD.

Back to the Future could be the title of NAHAR EXPORTS success story a dazzling satellite of NAHAR constellation. Starting out in 1988 as a manufactures and exporters of cotton hosiery garments the company soon realized that to strategically move backwards. This, it did through focused backward integration by setting up its own spinning unit with an ambitious installed capacity of 25000 spindles aiming to provide premium value added and special yarns to the market. It was a conscious decision aiming to reap the benefits of the profitable merger. A proactive move strongly indicates the companys determination and confidence to race ahead of competition by superior utilization of both man and machines. A masterstroke towards optimizing administrative functional and legal hassles in one final swoop. As an ISO 9002 company, NAHAR EXPORTS has two plants with a spindle age capacity of 1,45,000 spindles manufacturing a wide range of premium special and value added yarns manned by a dedicated workforce of 5000 exporting to enthusiast customers in competitive export market of Europe, Hong Kong, Singapore, Mauritius, South Eastern Asian Countries. NAHAR EXPORTS today is a major player in its chosen area blazing new trails and spinning new horizons in its on going pursuit of ever greater excellence.
2.5 NAHAR INDUSTRIAL ENTERPRISES LIMITED

Established in 1983 under the name of OSWAL FATS & OIL LTD. it underwent a total change over to become Nahar Industrial Enterprises a decade letter in 1994 The company has to divisions under its umbrella namely, Oil & Soap Division and the textile division The oil and soap division has two units. The fatty Acid unit is engaged in the manufacture of Fatty Acids Stearic Acid and Distilled Glycerin. The soap unit is engaged in the production of Toilet & Laundry Soap In the textile division the company has two Spinning units and a weaving unit. The frost spinning unit, a100% EOU, is Engaged in the manufacture of cotton yarn is exporting its yarn to Europe, Hong Kong, Singapore Taiwan, Mauritius, Malaysia and Australia The second unit, namely Sambhav Spinning Mills, is engaged in the manufacture of cotton yarn. The aggregate installed spindle in both the units is 38000 spindles. Nahar fabric the weaving unit is equipped with 176 Picanol Air Jet Weaving Machines (Cam/Repair/Dobby) A weaving design studio backs the facilities where the time-tested handloom is used for product development activity in consonance with market needs The preparatory is equipped with Benningers Warping & Sizing Machines. Inspection is equipped with automatic inspection with rolling machine from la Maccanica, Italy. Nahar fabrics has already produced more then 200 different constructions in Grey Fabric for in House needs and World Markets Oswal Cotton Mills, established in 2000, has been clubbed with Nahar Fabrics and now, it is one of the most modern weaving and processing plant of India. There are two process house shortly named as P-1 & P-2.
2.6 NAHAR SUGAR and ALLIED INDUSTRIES LIMITED

Established in 1993 Nahar Spinning mills Ltd. associate companies in the assisted sector with PSIDC promoted Nahar Sugar Nahar Sugar represents the Groups concerted thrust towards exploring new need based area in tune with the larger context of customer needs & market demands The company has a modern sugar mill powered with the latest state-of-the-art equipment at district Fategarh Sahib, Punjab for producing all types & grades of sugar and allied products. The installed capacity of mill is 2500 TCDs An active program of cane development to ensure regular cane supply to the plant is on. Also the power co-generated at the plant is being constructively used for capitative consumption to reduce the raw material cost.
2.7 MANAGEMENT OF NAHAR GROUP

S. No. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. Name Mr. Jawahar Oswal Mr. Kamal Oswal Mr. S.S. Basu Mr. Dhawan Sharma Mr. Anil Tyagi Mr. Arnav Gosh Mr. Amit Walia Mr. Ravindra Rohila Mr. Sanjeev Gulati Mr. Sachin Jain Mr. Vishnupal Bhatnagar. Mr. Gurpreet Singh Mr. Naresh Chand Post Chairman M.D. President H.O.D. (Tech. & Q.A.) H.O.D.(Finishing) HOD (Dyeing) H.O.D.(Bleaching) H.O.D.(PA & HR) H.O.D.(Accounts) Purchase Dept. Folding Dept. P.P.C. Security Officer
3.
3.1 PLANT LAYOUT
PLANT LOCATION
1. Security office 2. Personal & Adm. 3. Manav vikas Kendra 4. Visitors waiting room 5. Accounts department 6. Workshop 7. Yarn dyeing plant 8. Boiler 9. Kitchen 10. Chemical lab 11. Physical lab 12. Finishing department 13. Folding and packing department 14. Grey checking 15. Store I 16. Bleaching department 17. Caustic recovery plant 18. Grey godown 19. Store II 20. Power plant 21. Pad dryer m/c 22. Pad steam m/c 23. Stenter m/c 24. Sanforisation m/c 25. Desize cum singe m/c 26. Scouring & bleaching continuous m/c 27. Mercerization m/c 28. Pitching m/c
3.2 ENTIRE PROCESS FLOW

The Customer and the Marketing department communicate with each other. The Marketing department then talks with Product Development Group (PDG) and then communicates the terms discussed to the Quality Assurance (Q A) and Product Planning and Control (PPC) who decides on the various guidelines and the time required to execute the order. These guidelines are then communicated to the Plant Head who communicates them to the various Departments according to the guidelines and instructions. The fabric is then sent to the Fabric Inspection and then to the Central Quality Assurance, who sent it to the Folding and Dispatch from where other financial activities follows.
CUSTOMER
MARKETING
PDG
QA
PPC
PLANT HEAD
DEPARTMENT HEADS
FABRIC INSPECTION
CENTRAL Q A
INVOICE & DISPATCH
Fig 3.1 Process flow

4.
PRODUCTION PLANNING AND CONTROL
P.P.C. has a major role to play in the organizations. It creates the link between the production department and marketing department. It exchanges the information between both the departments. (1) Role and Responsibility of P.P.C. (a) Order Finalization: - The role of P.P.C. starts before the contract is executed and is in the stage of finalization. Marketing departments sends the sample to the P.P.C. department with the required delivery date. Then P.P.C. department sends the fabric construction to the fabric unit in the form of Enquiry Sheet. In the enquiry sheet expected, quality, quantity and delivery date is mentioned. Then the fabric unit sends back the enquiry sheet mentioning the availability of the quantity required and time taken against the same quantity. Then P.P.C. would inform to marketing concern head the actual delivery date. (b) Making Lab. Dip: If specific colour sample is also sent, then P.P.C. would send the sample to the quality assurance departments. The Q.A. will make the similar samples (mostly it is 3) against the sample sent. These samples are added to the Card, which is known as Lab. Dip. (3 Lab. dip) and spends it to the P.P.C. P.P.C. will forward the same Lab. Dip. To the marketing concern head and out of the samples the buyer approves send one of them. After approval of sample contract is signed b/w buyer and the seller. (2) Production planning and control: -
The contract is send to the PPC department. Then P.P.C. plans the production against the contract send. Contract number is clearly mentioned on the contract. Contract has the exact quantity, quality, delivery date and rates. After Which the M.D. PPC signs will first make the folio and add it to the concerned marketing head folio file. Then production programme is made for the entire four departments. Production programme is a very important report which has the full information of the fabric to be processed. Following things are mentioned in the production programme.
Date of execution of the contract Delivery date Quality No. Construction Weave Quantity Packing Institutions Shade No. Shade Finish Contract No. P.P.C. No. Lot No. Lot Number is a number given against the contract number only against this number, grey fabric can be issued. To get the grey fabric issued from the store Lot Number is required. P.P.C. number is the reference number against the particular contract. (3) Lot Card: Lot card is again a very important document for the production department. Lot No. P.P.C. No. Grey Information (Sort No., construction, finish width, weight, supplier name) Product Information (Shade No. Length in Mtrs.) Customer Information (Party Name, Ordered Qty., Delivery Date, Order Quality, No. Of shade). Process Information (Planned date. Delivered Date. Process steps, article no.) P.O No.: 18 Nahar Industrial Entp. Ltd.,Fabric Unit-2, Lalru.(Punjab.)
The following things are mentioned.
P.O number defines the process route of the fabric. The article no. has 7 digits and each digit has its own meaning.
Last three digits define the process steps. Table 4.1 1 FABRIC GROUP Bottom WT Shirting Cotton COT/Poly LYCRA Others. Complaint Handling: 2 FABRIC TYPE White Natural DYED DYED PC 3 CHEMICAL Soft Stiff Perfume RFD finish 4 USCHANICAL Peach Normal
1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. (4)
Complaint from the party against the contract is also handled by the PPC. To trace back the Bale No. is taken from the partly and send to the folding department. Folding department will find out the lot number and roll number against the Bale No. Then from the inspection report which is on 4 point system, the point given is checked. If the complaint is genuine then compensation is send against the particular complaint.
5.
HOD: Mr. AMIT WALIA
5.1 INTRODUCTION
The grey fabric consists of various kinds of impurities like vegetable matter, waxes etc. In this section all of these impurities are removed and whiteness in fabric is imparted. Bleaching section consists of four sections from gray opening to mercerization. GREY SECTION SINGEING AND DESIZING BLEACHING AND SCOURING (PTR) MERCERIZATION
Fig.5.1 PROCESS FLOW DIAGRAM:

FABRIC FABRIC FROM FROM WEAVING WEAVING UNIT UNIT
BALE BALE OPENING OPENING
SINGEING SINGEING & & DESIZING DESIZING
CONTINUOS CONTINUOS PRETREATEUSNT PRETREATEUSNT RANGE RANGE
MERCERISATION MERCERISATION RANGE RANGE
FOR FOR DYEING DYEING Or Or FINISHING FINISHING
5.2 GREY CHECKING

In this section, the bales of grey goods are opened and are converted in the form of roles of required length and then sorting is done that is sort no. is given Ex 2022116. First and 2nd digit Third digit i.e. 0. 1. 2. 3. 4. 4th digit 5th digit 6th and 7th digit Dobby design For plain Twill Drill Satin Count of fabric Weave (20)
ply of yarn type of loom serial no. of weaving unit.
5.3 SINGEING AND DESIZING
INTRODUCTION These two pretreatments are given in one machine. Firstly fabric gets singed and then continuously passed through desizing bath. SINGEING
It is a process in which protruding fibers on the surface of fabric are burnt. The fabric is passed over a flame at high speed to obtain a smooth surface; the gas used is L.P.G. for burning purpose.
DIFFERENT SETTINGS OF THE GAS SINGEING M/C: Speed of the Cloth: This may be varied with the help of differential gears provided.
1.
This is changed according to the GSM of the fabric. 2. Height of the flame: This can be varied with the help of the valve provided at the side of the machine i.e. by changing the pressure of gas of the burner. This can be change when more heat is to be provided to the fabric i.e. when fabric is heavier in weight and its speed cannot reduce below a level. 3. Length of the flame: This can be varied with the help of the valve provided at the side of the machine. This can be change when the width of the cloth is more or less than the width of the flame.
IMPROVED PROPERTIES Improved luster. Minimized pilling tendency. Smoothens the fabric and improves the feel of the fabric.
DESIZING
It is the removal of size material from the grey fabric. Sizing is done to provide strength to cotton warp to meet the requirement of weaving. But this sized layer is to be removed before wet processing as it reduces the absorbing power of the fabric. Here enzymatic steep method is used for desizing because it is effective for ecology and quality of desizing. The starch is degraded as:
Starch
Dextrin (Insol)
Dextrin (Sol.)
Fig 5.2 Degradation of starch Basis parameters which affect the activity of the enzyme are following: TEMPERATURE. pH Time of Contact( IMPREGNATION )
Fig 5.3 PROCESS FLOW OF SINGEING AND DESIZING
Keep the batch in rotation for 8-12 hours
Table 5.1: SINGEING PARAMETERS
MACHINE MAKE MODEL NAME SOURCE OF FLAME NO. OF BURNERS GAS PRESSURE MAXIMUM SPEED OF FABRIC FLAME HEIGHT NO. OF BRUSHING UNITS
Osthoff Senge, Germany 42327WUPPERTAL Mixture of Gas & Air(75:25) 2 12-13m bar 100 mt/min. 2.5 inch to 4.5 inch (according to quality) 2
Table 5.2: RECIPE FOR ENZYME DESIZING
ENZYME WETTING AGENT CHILATING AGENT
5 g/l 5 g/l 3 g/l
Table 5.3 DESIZING PARAMETERS
CAPACITY OF DESIZE BATH TEMP NIP PRESSURE ENZYME USED WETTING AGENT USED CHILLATING AGENT USED % EXPRESSION
750 lt. 75oC 2 bar BIOAOURLASE (OM Logistic Ltd.) Lenetol CBRD (CRODA Chemicals Ind.) Intox (CLARIANT Chemicals Ind.) 100%
5.4 CONTINUOUS PRE TREATEMENT RANGE

The fabric from batch (after storing for 8-12 hrs) is continuously processed for following processes- Desize wash, combined scour-bleach, Washing, Neutralization, and Drying.
DESIZE WASHER INTRODUCTION

The action of enzyme hydrolyses the starch into soluble degradation products. They are removed completely before further processes on the INJECTA unit by the action of steam & water jets then hot wash at 95OC is given to the fabric in the EXTRACTA unit.
Fig 5.4 PROCESS FLOW IN DESIZE WASHER

FABRIC FABRIC FROM FROM BATCH BATCH
PRE PRE WETTING WETTING AT AT O OC 65 65 C
INJECTA INJECTA UNIT UNIT (Steaming (Steaming + + hot hot water water Spray) Spray)
To To IMPACTA IMPACTA UNIT UNIT
EXTRACTA EXTRACTA UNIT UNIT (WASHING (WASHING AT AT 95 95 C) C)

O O
INJECTA: The Desize module of INJECTA is exclusively used to wash the fabric. With
the INJECTA, the intensive washing system, all types of size from PVA to starch are removed without preswelling. Other relevant advantages are small space requirement and minimum water consumption.
Technical Data:
1. Temperature 2. Degree of Humidity Humidity at the in feed end :
100 C
60 70% or Dry. Max 130%.
Humidity at delivery (depend on fabric) : 3. Utilities Water Saturated Steam Compressed Air : : : 400 l/m. 4.5 bar. 7 bar.
EXTRACTA:
It is used to wash the fabric using counter current flow of water. The high Washing effect of this machine is achieved through exact liquor segregation and counter-flow guidance. It has been designed for especially low power and water consumption. Temperature Maximum washing temperature Heat up time (approx.) : : 95 C. 10 min.
Utilities 29 Nahar Industrial Entp. Ltd.,Fabric Unit-2, Lalru.(Punjab.)
Maximum water consumption (Direct heating) Steam pressure
: :
4 to 8 ltr per kg. 4 5 bar.
Fig 5.4
PRETREATMENT RANGE
It is a combined process in which Scouring and Bleaching is done. In this process we remove natural as well as added impurities of essentially hydrophobic character like oils, fats, waxes etc. As completely as possible and leave the fabric in a highly absorptive condition without undergoing significant chemical or physical change or damage and also for removing the natural coloring matter of cotton to give the fabric a white effect. This white effect is essential for the dyeing process especially for the light or medium shades. The natural impurities & natural coloring matter can be destroyed by this combined process. Table 5.4 Chemical used in Pre Treatment Range:Tank NO. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. Function of chemicals:H2O2- Universal Bleaching Agent This liberates nascent oxygen which is responsible for the bleaching action. CBRD- Wetting Agent The surface tension of water prevents the wetting of hydrophobic material and it is therefore necessary to reduce it to enable fabric to be wetted easily. For removal of impurities during scouring it is necessary to incorporate a wetting agent or surface active agent. Chemicals H2O2 NaOH CBRD Intox Lanitol CESE
NaOH- Conversion of glycerides of fatty acids into soap by the use of NaOH is called SAPONIFICATION. Thus the oils and fats in the cotton textile are saponified during the scouring process into water soluble products. One more important function of NaOH in the semi-bleach or combined process is to activate H2O2 it liberates nascent oxygen because of which bleaching is done in the CONTINUOUS PROCESS. INTOX- Sequristing Agent A sequristing agent can Chelate (combine to form complex with) the metallic ions in water and also reduce the hardness of water. These agents can replace the use of Sodium Silicate and Sodium Hexa-meta phosphate to some extent. Lanitol CESE- Stabliser This is to control the rapid decomposition of the peroxide when alkali is added in the solution i.e. to ensure a fairly uniform availability of the per hydroxyl ion for the bleaching action stabiliser are used.
Fig 5.4 PROCESS FLOW IN BENNINGER PRETREATMENT RANGE:Fabric From Fabric From EXTRACTA EXTRACTA WASHER WASHER IMPECTA UNIT IMPECTA UNIT
(Impregnation in (Impregnation in Bleaching and Bleaching and scouring chemicals) scouring chemicals)
For Steaming ( Dwell Time = 20 min.) ( Dwell Time = 20 min.)
REACTA UNIT REACTA UNIT For Steaming
FORTRACTA FORTRACTA UNIT UNIT :: (Pre hot washing)

Impurities sticking to Impurities sticking to the fabric surface are the fabric surface are removed. removed.
(Pre hot washing)
To dry the fabric
VERTICAL VERTICAL DRYING DRYING RANGE RANGE To dry the fabric
NEUTRILIZATION NEUTRILIZATION With Acetic acid With Acetic acid
Counter current flow washing washing
EXTRECTA EXTRECTA UNIT UNIT Counter current flow
Table 5.5 RECIPE H2O2 SEQUSTRANT WETTING AGENT STABILIZER NaOH 30 40 ml/kg 2 ml/kg 3 ml/kg 7 - 10 ml/kg 27 30 ml/kg
5.5 IMPECTA UNIT

The impregnation module contains only a small volume of liquor, impregnation fabric under high turbulence & high temperature with minimum amount of liquor. The chemicals are injected by force. Water is added continuously. Water supply is controlled by level regulation. The amount of chemicals can be varied between normal impregnation & high wet pick up impregnation via the adjustable squeeze roller. The displacer with the guide roller guides the fabric into the liquor. The level is determined by the weight of the floater in the liquor by the level sensor.
Temperature: Maximum treatment temperature = 60 C. Moisture content: At in feed end At deliver end = = 60-70%. max 130%.
REACTA (STEAMER):
The chemicals applied to the fabric react in the steamer according to the specific process .the steamer can provide tight strand fabric guidance or place the fabric on the roller bed for stationary dwell time of up to 60 min .the automatic and regulating station guarantees consistent and air free contestation .
Temperature:
Maximum treatment temperature Heat up time
= =
98 C. 30 min.
Various ways of passing fabric through steamer:
1. Short time steamer with reaction , cloth content = 25200mt.
2. Steamer with single roller bed, reaction time = 3-40 min.
3. Combination steamer with single roller bed, reaction time = 3-45min. This type is used in the NIEL Fabric Unit-2 Fig 5.6 4. Combination steamer with double roller bed, reaction time = 5-60min
5.6 FORTRACTA:
Purpose: it is used for:1. washing 2. Even batching guides fabric properly. 3. Avoid any creasing in the fabric. Temperature: Maximum treatment temperature = 100 C. Moisture content: At in feed end At deliver end = = 60-70%. max 130%.
EXTRACTA WASHER:
There are four washing chambers based on counter current washing principle.
Neutralization:
When the mercerization is not required then neutralization is done in forth washer. If mercerization is done then no there is no need of neutralization.
Fortracta
Extracta washer Neutralization Vertical Drying Range Exit J-scray
Fig 5.7 CYLINDER DRYING MACHINE

The bleached fabric in wet condition is dried on to the cylindrical drying range. This is a vertical drying range with 30 cylinders.
Functions: Function of this machine is to dry the fabric after various chemical Processes like bleaching, dyeing etc. whose final product is wet fabric.
Features: The machine is based on the principle of high temp steam hating. The drying Range consists of no. of mangle rollers which removes approximately 70% of water from the fabric. It consists of a bow shaped roller to remove crease from the fabric. There are 30 cylinders arranged vertically and heated by steam vapourize water from the fabric. Starting four rollers are coated with a paint to give initially normal heating so that Face to back effect can be avoided. One motor drives all the hot cylinders through belt. Another separate motor is provided for driving 3 cooling cylinders. Chilled water is circulated through the cooling cylinders. There is a length measuring cylinder. There are two exhaust fans for exhausting the humid air at the upper side, driven by two motors.
Steam pressure Temp of the machine Speed of fabric
: : :
2.5 5 kg/sq. cm 120-150 C. 60-65 mt/min (for suiting).

80 mt/min (for shirting).
37
Nahar Industrial Entp. Ltd.,Fabric Unit-2, Lalru.(Punjab.)
Fig 5.8
5.7 MERCERISATION
Impregnation of wet or dry fabric in caustic soda solution of determined concentration under tension is the process called mercerization.
OBJECTIVES OF MERCERIZATION
1. 2. 3. 4. 5. Improve Luster Provide Dimensional Stability Increase Absorbency Increase Dye-ability Reduction in Convolutions
Fig 5.9 PROCESS FLOW IN BENNINGER MERCIRISER
VARIOUS UNITS IN MERCERIZATION:
BEN DIUSNSA:-
Its function is to accumulate the fabric in J-Scray when batch changing has to be done PRE WETTING SECTION:First the fabric is passes through the water and then fabric passes through the pre wetting trough containing week lye (alkali of 10 Be) , this improves the initial absorbency of fabric .
IMPREGATION ZONE:Fabric passes through strong alkali solution with following specifications Strength of caustic Temperature Passage length = = = 29 Be. 60 C. 14 m. 1.4 Tw = 6 gpl = 0.59%.
NOTE: - 1 Be (Bauus) =
DWELLING ZONE:This is used to give required dwell time after impregnation by passing through the cylinders (Passage length = 32 m.). After the fabric is squeezed.
STENTRING ZONE (chain with pin):Its object is to stretch the fabric to provide required tension.
EXTRACTA WASHERS:There are six washers. Initial four washers for the hot washing of the fabric and fifth washer is for neutralization and sixth again for washing.
5.8 PEACHING
Peaching is a process of developing very low pile on the surface of fabric. Peaching of fabric is done by using emerising or brushing system depends on quality & construction of fabric,
effect required by customer etc. In Nahar Group there are machines of both type of mechanism. Caru (emerizing system) 1 1
Gematex (emerizing system) 2 Lafer (Brushing system) GEMATEX: MADE NO. OF PILE ROLLS NO. OF COUNTER PILE ROLES DIRECTIONS OF PILE ROLES : GEMATEX (GERMANY)
: 12 : 12 : IN THE DIRECTION OF RUNNING FABRIC
DIRECTION OF COUNTER PILE ROLES: IN THE DIRECTION OPP. TO RUNNING FABRIC. ENERGY OF PILE ROLES: 50 200 (DEPENDS ON EFFECT REQUIRED AND QUANTITY) ENERGY OF CP ROLES: 50 200 (DEPENDS ON EFFECT REQUIRED AND QUANTITY) EMERY OF PILR ROLES EMERY OF CP ROLES RPM OF DRUM : : : 220 GRIT 100 GRIT 90 110
In this machine, required effect we can change energy of pile and counter pile roles, rpm of drum, speed of machine & tension of fabric on emery drum.
6
HOD: Mr. ARNAV GHOSH
6.1 INTRODUCTION Dyeing is defined as the application of dye to fibers (according to their affinity) to have desired colour. Every natural or synthetic fiber varies in affinity or capacity to take the dyestuffs. In Nahar Fabrics, dyeing is done at fabric stage. Main types of fabrics those are dyed are: 1) 100% cotton fabric 2) P/C blend.
3) Lycra (less quantity)
MACHINERY IN DYEING
1) PAD-DRY 2) PAD-STEAM
Fig 6.1 PROCESS FLOW ON PAD DRY:BATCH OF FABRIC
TENSIONING GUIDES ENTRY J-SCRAY, E+L GUIDE, BRUSHING UNIT
COOLING CYLINDER KUSTER PADDING MANGLE AIRING DEVICE IR PREHEATER
3 HOT FLUE CHAMBERS COOLING CYLINDER, EXIT J-SCRAY, E + L GUIDE, BATCHING
Fig 6.1 PAD DRY IN NAHAR PROCESSING UNIT-2(VIEW FROM EXIT END)
VARIOUS UNITS IN PAD DRY
1.
Batch of fabric:- Batch of fabric
2. Tensioning guides: - To give proper passage and tension to the fabric. 3. Entry J-scary: - To facilitate continuous process while batch changing has to be done. 4. E+L guide: - To guide the fabric by guiding the selvedge.
5.
Brushing unit: - It consists of two brushing roller. This is provided to remove fluffs from the peached fabric. Brushing efficiency can be changed according to requirement by changing the position of side handle
6.
Exhaust fan: - From the other side of brushing roller a motor driven fan is provided for exhausting the waste and collecting it in to separate bags.
7.
Cooling cylinders: - To maintain uniform temperature which facilitate in uniform pickup of dye liquor.
8.
Kuster mangle: - Fabric is passed through the Padding mangle where the colour padding takes place. It is jacketed by chilled water line to maintain its temperature. * 2 dip 2 nips. * Differential pressure along left, middle and right portion of fabric.
Fig 6.2
9. Ring device: - There are 11 guide rollers to give time for airing. 10. IR-pre heater: - The cloth is passed through Infra red unit where 50-60% fabric is dried with the help of infrared rays. Gas and air mixture is supplied to burners from MAXON GAS STATION to produce IR rays. The temperature inside is around 750c. 11. Drying chambers:47 Nahar Industrial Entp. Ltd.,Fabric Unit-2, Lalru.(Punjab.)
Further the fabric is passed through 3 heating chambers. These heating chambers are heated with the help of furnace oil and heat is exhausted with the help of fans in it. The temperature of the chambers depends on the type of fabrics. The temperature in these chambers is maintained somewhere around 140-180 degrees (for thermosol dyeing) and 100-130 degrees (for other methods). The time for drying /thermosoling depends upon the speed of the fabric which in turn depends upon quality of fabric (GLM). For light weight fabric high speed, lees time for drying and also lower IR temperature, drying temperature and fan% while higher exhaust%. PLEVA (Sensor):- Attached outside the chamber in each hot flue chamber used to control humidity in the case of E-control process 12. The fabric is passed over cooling cylinder. 13. Exit J-scary: - To facilitate the continuous process while batch changing has to be done. 14. E+L guide: - To guide the fabric by guiding the selvedge 15. Length measuring roller and antis tats are also provided Then the fabric is rolled on the rolling beam with the moisture content of 2-3%. Further the fabric is sent for colour fixation and developing.
Fig 6.2 PROCESS FLOW ON PAD STEAMER:48 Nahar Industrial Entp. Ltd.,Fabric Unit-2, Lalru.(Punjab.)
BATCH OF FABRIC
TENSIONING GUIDES
ENTRY J-SCRAY, E+L GUIDE, LENGTH MEASURING ROLLER
BICOFLEX PADDER
STEAMING UNIT
WATER LOCK UNIT
EXTRACTA WASHER
VERTICAL DRYING RANGE
COOLING CYLINDER, EXIT J-SCRAY, E + L GUIDE, BATCHING
6.2 VARIOUS UNITS IN PAD STEAM 1. 2. Batch of fabric. Tensioning guides:To give proper passage and the tension to the fabric. 3. Entry J-scary:To facilitate continuous process while batch changing has to be done. 4. E+L guide & length measuring roller:To guide the fabric by guiding the selvedge.
5. BICOFLEX Padder: The fabric is passed through hydro and caustic for vat development and for reactive dye, fabric passed through alkali solution and 60% chemical pickup takes place. Temperature of padding bath is 35-40 C.Normally tried to be done at room temperature. Even pressure throughout the width of the fabric. 6. REACTA:-
The fabric is then passed through steam chambers here the chemical reaction takes a dwelling time of one minute and dyes enter the fabric completely. Various features of Reacta:1. Horizontal or vertical fabric entry with heated lips and exhaust fan for excess steam. 2. Section with 25 m fabric content. 3. Large fabric diameters (193 mm) for creaseless fabric runs. 4. Lifetime lubricated bearings. 5. Top rollers individually driven by AC motors. 6. Load cell to measure fabric tension for drive control. 7. Roof heating.
8. Water seal with small liquor content and uniform liquor distribution. In water seal continuous chilled water is circulated through the jacket, which facilitates in the removal of condensed steam. 9. Temperature or volume controlled fresh water flow to the water seal. 10. Steam conditioning unit. 11. Probe to measure steam condition. 12. Automatic cleaning system.
Fig 6.3 7. Washing unit:Washer-1&2 having water temp. 40 C used for cold washing. Washer-3, 4&5 are used for vat development (H2O2) or simple hot washing/soaping for reactive dyed/white fabric. Za Washer- 6&7 are used for soaping. Washer-8 for hot washing. Washer-9 for neutralization and washing both in the same chambers.
As this machine is inclined in position from backward side so it uses less water as washed fabric comes in contact with the fabric first then it goes to the other section.ie water flows from washer-9 to washer-1. 8. Vertical drying range:-
The dyed fabric in wet condition is dried on to the cylindrical drying range. This is a vertical drying range with 33cylinders.
9.
Cooling cylinders:-The fabric is passed over cooling cylinder.
10. Exit J-scary: - To facilitate continuous process while batch changing has to be done. 11. E+L guide:- To guide the fabric by guiding the selvedge 12. Batching or Trolley: - Finally fabric is batched or collected in trolley.
6.3 VARIOUS METHODS OF DYEING:1. PDPS for vat dye on 100% cotton. 2. PDPS for reactive dye on 100% cotton. 3. E-CONTROL. 4. THERMOSOL/PDPS vat (PET/Cotton). 5. THERMOSOL/PDPS reactive (PET/Cotton). 6. THERMOSOL/E-CONTROL (PET/Cotton)
1. PDPS for vat dye on 100% cotton
Fig 6.4 Process flow diagram of PDPS Vat Dye on 100% COTTON
PADDING IN DYE PAD VAT DYESTUFF + AUXILIARIES
AIR PASSAGE FOR DYE PENETRATION
PRE DRYING ON IR DRYER
DRYING ON HOT AIR FLUE
PADDING IN CHEMICALS ON PAD STEAUSR
STEAMING
WASHING
CHEMICAL OXIDATION & SOAPING
NEUTRALISATIO Then DRYING ON VDR
2. PDPS for reactive dye on 100% cotton.
Process flow diagram of PDPS Reactive Dye on 100% COTTON
PADDING IN DYE PAD REACTIVE DYE SOLUTION
PADDING IN CHEMICALS ON PAD STEAUSR
STEAMING
COLD WASHING
SOAPING & HOT WASHING
NEUTRALISATION Then DRYING ON VDR
3. E-CONTROL Reactive Dyeing Process

Basic principle of E-control process. The E-Control process comprises just 3 steps: Application of dye, Drying, and Washing off. The dyeing system must be carefully balanced to ensure complete fixation of the Remazol or Levafix dyes within the drying time. However, complete fixation of reactive dyes is not possible in normal drying conditions because of the wet bulb temperature, which is a characteristic of all convection-based drying systems. It means that during drying, the temperature of the moist goods is far lower than the surrounding temperature In normal drying processes the temperature on the goods can drop to 50-55C. The exact temperature depends on the humidity of the air used to dry the goods. If humidity is 25% and the air temperature is 120C, the temperature on the surface of the goods is around 68C. If humidity is 30%, the temperature on the goods is around 71C. The E-control process uses this physical fact to fix the reactive dye during drying. Three key variables time, temperature and humidity are used to ensure accurate control of the dyeing process in the Thermex hot flue.
6.4 RECOMMENDED DYES, AUXILIARIES AND ALKALI SYSTEMS Evidently, the dyes used in the E-control process have to be suitable for the process conditions. Since dyeing is completed in approximate 2-3 minutes, reactive dyes with high to medium reactivity are particularly suitable. All Levafix and most Remazol dyes can be used. In practice, Levafix dyes are used for pale to medium shades, while Remazol dyes are used for medium to very deep shades.
Soda ash or soda ash/NaOH is normally used as the alkali system. To ensure optimum reliability, it is essential to dose the alkali and dye solutions separately. For example, the following amounts of alkali are recommended for LevafixCA dyes: Table 6.1
AMOUNT OF DYE Soda ash NaOH 50%
UP TO 10 GPL 20 -
>10-30GPL 20 2 ml/ltr
> 30 GPL 20 4 ml/ltr
Common auxiliaries used in continuous dyeing processes can be used, e.g. wetting agents, antimigration agents and, if necessary, sequestering agents. A mild oxidant can be added to prevent reduction of the dyes. Urea is not essential for the Econtrol process but up to 50 g/l may be advantageous in same circumstances.
Features of the E-control process E-control process does not use a separate fixation step. By contrast, all other continuous dyeing processes require separate fixation of same sort. The E-control process requires 35% less time. The process also has a logistical benefit: since the goods are dry at the end of the Econtrol dyeing process, they do not have to be washed off immediately and can be stored without problem. E-control can be used to dye all shades that can be obtained with reactive dyes. That includes brilliant turquoise, deep Bordeaux, deep navy and, of course, black.
Energy and chemical requirements The E-control process needs far less energy than the e.g. PDPS process because it cuts out the extra fixation step (steaming). For chemicals, unlike the PDPS process, the E-control process does not require any salt. The amount of alkali is similar.
Limitation Nevertheless, like all dyeing processes, E-control does have its limitations: The first is that Indanthrene dyes can be dried by using the Thermex hot flue but not fixed as an air free steamer is required for this. Pale to medium shades can be dyed on PES/COTTON blends using a modified onebath TTN process but a separate thermosol step is required after the E-control step. Consequently, at least two Thermex chambers are required.
More experience is needed to obtain reproducible dyeing on very lightweight qualities (<60 g/m) than on heavier fabrics. The E-control process is not entirely suitable for heavyweight pile and loop pile goods such as terry toweling because there is a risk of frosting. The appearance of same goods dyed under E-control conditions differs from their appearance in the PDPS process. This means the two processes are not always interchangeable.
4. THERMOSOL/PDPS VAT (PET/Cotton)
Fig 6.5 Process flow diagram of THERMOSOL/PDPS vat (PET/Cotton)
PADDING OF FABRIC IN DISPERSE/VAT DYE SOLUTION
THERMOFIXATION ON HOT AIR FLUE
VAT DEVELOPUSNT & REDUCTION CLEARING ON PAD STEAUSR
STEAMING then COLD WASH
OXIDATION WITH H2O2
SOAPING IN 3 WASHING CHAMBERS then HOT WASH
NEUTRALIZAION
DRYING OF Nahar Industrial Entp. Ltd.,Fabric Unit-2, Lalru.(Punjab.) FABRIC ON VDR
58
5. THERMOSOL/PDPS reactive (PET/Cotton)

Fig 6.6 Process flow diagram of THERMOSOL/PDPS Reactive (PET/Cotton):
PADDING OF FABRIC IN DISPERSE DYE
REDUCTION CLEARING ON PAD STEAUSR
DRYING ON VDR
PADDING OF FABRIC IN REACTIVE DYE ON PAD DRY
AIR PASSAGE then PRE DRYING ON IR DRYER
PADDING IN CHEMICALS ON PAD STEAMER
STEAMING + CW + HW +SOAPING + HW + NEUTRALIZAIO
DRYING OF FABRIC ON VDR
6. THERMOSOL/E-CONTROL (PET/Cotton)
Fig 6.7 Process flow diagram of THERMOSOL/E-CONTROL Reactive (PET/Cotton) :
PADDING OF FABRIC IN DISPERSE DYE
REDUCTION CLEARING ON PAD STEAUSR
DRYING ON VDR
PADDING OF FABRIC IN REACTIVE DYE+ALKALI ON PAD DRY
AIR PASSAGE then PRE DRYING ON IR DRYER
FIXATION OF DYE ON HOT AIR FLUE
RINSING & SOAPING ON PAD STEAUSR
NEUTRALISATION
DRYING OF FABRIC ON VDR
6.5 YARN DYEING

GREY YARN
SOFT WINDING
MACHINE LOADING
DYEING
DRYING
HYDROEXTRACTOR
R F DRYER
CONE WINDING
CONDITIONING
SOFT WINDING
Packages are transformed from paper cone which comes from the spinning department. For dyeing generally 1800gm packages are prepared which are winded on plastic cheese. In NIEL plastic cheese are used. The machines used for cone to cheese conversion are SSM CW1-W, Perciflex Technology. DYEING The number of machines in the yarn dyeing department is 21. All the machines are High Temperature High Pressure machines. The capacity of the machines varies from: Table 6.2 Capacity 1 kg 3.6 kg 10 kg 18 kg 25-36 kg 65 kg 100 kg 150 kg 324 kg 518 kg 1100 kg Packages are generally of 1.2 kg to 1.8 kg. No. Of Machines 4 1 4 1 2 2 1 2 1 1 1
All the processes which are included i.e. pretreatment, dyeing, finishing of grey yarn are done in the same machine and in single flow of the yarn i e. all these processes are done sequentially. The machine consists of basically 3 tanks: 1. Main tank This is used for all the processes and has a lid over it. This consists of all the material and chemical solution. 2. Stock tank This is the storage tank where the entire chemicals are mixed with the help of a stirrer. 3. Dosing tank This tank is used for dosing the chemicals in the appropriate quantity in a regulated manner. 6.6 SEMI-BLEACH This includes scouring and bleaching of yarn in the same bath. The chemicals used for this are:Lenatol FFC Air Removing Agent Lenatol HPLF Wetting Agent Sandophor R3C Sequristing Agent Caustic Flax - Alkali Lenatol HPBS Peroxide Stabliser H2O2 Bleaching Agent Ustaxil BABK Peroxide Killer After these processes we need to neutralize the solution so that the pH is maintained at 6.5 for this we use Green Acid Neutraliser Time Required 1hrs.45min The dosing and the flow of the sequence are shown by a graph which indicates the temperature, chemical, dosing and holding time.
DYEING
Dri Mazine ER Levelling Agent Sandophor R3C Sequristing Agent Dye Solution for HE Reactive (Ferozee) Pro yellow HE4R Tult Blue XLE Pro Blue HERD Glauber Salt Exhausting Agent Soda Fixating Agent Green Acid Neutralizer Saracol 1583 Soaping Acetic Acid Neutralizer HCF Dye Fixing Agent pH 10.6 Holding time 45 min Above all the processes are indicated the dosing and the flow of the sequence is shown by a graph which indicate the temperature, chemical , dosing and holding time. Finishing Chemicals: Generally Softeners are used in same solution Perifil Resin Finish Resil - lubricant Wax Emulsion.
6.7 DRYING
Drying is done with the help of two machines here. First one is HYDROEXTRACTOR and second one is R F DRIER. In Hydroextracor only the water present on the outer layer and between the fibres are removed. The moisture present in the interstitial of the fibre is not removed. This is essential to remove the extra water present in the yarn only. The efficiency of this machine is around 50-60% i.e. it removes this much amount of water.
Specification:The machine used here is of DETTIN, ITALY . The capacity of the machine is 18 packages of 1.8 or 1.2 kg. Time cycle is of 10 min. Running time of drying is 7 min Speed of rotation is 0 1100 rpm Mechanism Centrifugal force is applied on the yarns.
RF DRIER. This is a machine based on the principle of radio frequency. In this machine the water molecules are vibrated at a speed of 18000 cycles per sec. This machine basically removes all the moisture present in the material except the moisture content of the material. Specification The drying zone length in the machine is of 7 mt length. The speed of the machine is 6.5 mt/hr Temperature 98c Conveyer belt is made of fibrous plastic material.
7.
TESTING LAB
HOD: - MR. DHAWAN SHARMA
7.1 Introduction: Research & Development department is the backbone of any industry. It deals not only with the present problems but also with the problems that could arise in future. Objectives of R & D
Quality Control Productivity Improvement Shade matching Process Control Product Development and Testing Buyer Satisfaction Specification Tests
Sections of R & D Physical testing Lab Chemical testing lab Dyeing Lab
Physical testing lab It includes various tests like shrinkage test, strength test etc. These tests are performed to ensure the quality of the fabrics. Various kinds of tests performed are: For mercerized fabric Shrinkage test Tensile Strength Absorbency test (drop method) Whiteness test pH of the fabric Width Residual Size Content
Dip test
For dyed fabric Fastness properties Washing fastness test Wet fastness test Rubbing fastness test pH of the fabric
For finished fabric Shrinkage test Skew test Tensile Strength Tear Strength Fastness test Washing Fastness test Wet fastness Test Rubbing fastness test pH of the fabric EPI & PPI test (ends per inch and picks per inch) Crease Recovery Angle
For fabric from folding department Shrinkage test Strength test Skew test EPI and PPI test GSM test Count of the yarn in the fabric
7.2 INSTRUMENTS USED IN PHYSICAL TESTING LAB CROCK METER
Fig 7.1 Table 7.1 Jauss H. Heal To check Rubbing fastness 14.5 x 4 cm
MAKE USE SAMPLE SIZE
CREASE RECOVERY ANGLE TESTER Table 7.2 MAKE USE TEST METHOD SAMPLE SIZE LOAD APPLIED Jauss H. Heal To ensure the Crease Recovery Angle AATCC 66 40x15 mm 500 grams, 2 Kg
PORTABLE SPECTROPHOTOMETER Table 7.3
MAKE USE
Jauss H. Heal To check the extent of P/C blend.
GROWTH TESTER Table 7.4 MAKE USE TEST METHOD C.M. and Sons To determine the amount of fabric Stretch and fabric growth. A.S.T.M. D310
DELUXE PH METER Table 7.5 MODEL USE 101 E To check the pH of the fabric.
ABRASION TESTER
Fig 7.2
Table 7.6 MAKE USE TEST METHOD MAGNASCOPE Table 7.7 JaussH.Heal To check the extend of abrasion B.S.5690
MAKE USE
Paramount To magnify the specimen
SPRAY TESTER Table 7.7 MAKE USE TEST METHOD Paramount To check water repellency AATCC 22
TEARING STRENGTH TESTER
Fig 7.3
Table 7.8
MAKE USE TEST METHOD SAMPLE SIZE TENSILE STRENGTH TESTER Table 7.8 MAKE USE TEST METHOD SAMPLE SIZE LIGHT CABINET Table 7.9
Jauss H. Heal To ensure the resistance offered by a pre cut specimen to a falling pendulum. ISO 9290 100x63 mm
Jauss H. Heal To ensure the resistance of fabric .To break under a tensile load applied. ASTM D5037 35x5 cm
MAKE USE LIGHT SOURCES source
JAUSS H. HEAL To match colour under specified light TL 84, D 65, F, UV.
7.3 CHEMICAL TESTING LAB All the chemicals used in the processing of the fabric are checked here, the quality and the property of the chemicals and accordingly the usage are made. The chemical dosing done in all the process like bleaching, Dyeing is tried here on the scale model machines and thus the suggestions are given as required by the concerned department. The department also gives the usage pattern of the chemicals as per the quality and concentration of the chemicals. The sample preparation as per the instructions of the PPC and buyer is also prepared in the department. Shrinkage checking: the fabric is washed and dried 3 or more times as per the requirement to check the level of shrinkage in the cloth. Washing fastness; the removal of colour from the fabric is checked the fabric is washed with the solution of Soda Ash (2 gm), Detergent (5gm) and water (1 Lt.) The cloth is left for the dwelling time of half an hour under 60-degree temperature. And thus the washing fastness is checked that who much colour the fabric is leaving.
Thus the chemical testing department plays important role in developing the fabric as per the requirements of the buyer. Various chemicals that are used in the mill are tested for strength, gpl (gram per liter), percentage purities etc. Chemicals that are tested in lab are NaOH H2O2 HCl Soda Ash Hydro Lime
7.4 DYEING LAB The main function of dyeing lab is shade matching. It means to produce the required shade by finding the correct recipe required and correcting it. The samples of same RFD are dyed before dyeing the fabric in bulk to check the recipe prepared for colour matching. MACHINE USED IN DYEING LAB CCM LAB Name of instrument Model Make No. of instrument Objective:1. Matching & ensurement of colour or shade. 2. Whiteness assessment.
: Spectrophotometer : colour eye 7000 A0 Gretagmacheth. : McBEATH : 1
PADDING MANGLE Make Max speed Pressure Function Hot flue Make Max speed Max temperature Purpose Mathis, Switzerland 2 m/sec 250C Drying, Curing, Thermosoling Mathis, Switzerland 1m/sec 3.2 bar (for vat) 4.8 bar (for p/c) To pad the dye onto the fabric
PADDING MANGLE Make Speed Pressure Purpose Indian 3 m/min 3.4 bar For reactive batching For applying finishing liquor MICROWAVE Purpose Gives 8/16 hours batching effect in 8-15 mins.
AUTO DISPENSER Make No. of Bottles No. of Machine Datacolour 101 2

No. of Display E-CONTROL Made Object Dwell time Air Temp.
3 (two for colour & one for water amount)
Mathis, Switzerland. reactive dye development by saturated steam. 11 sec. 1200 C
SAME MACHINE PARAMETER PADDING MANGLE Table 7.10 Padding parameter Nip Pressure Speed Expression Trough Temp HOT FLUE (FOR THERMOSOLING) Table 7.11 IR Temperature Speed Off 220C 0.6m/min Set point 4.8 bar 1.0 m/min 60 % 25oC
FOR VAT DRYING Table 7.12 Parameter I.R.Level Speed Temp Of Drying Range Set point 70 % 1 m/min 140OC
CDR PARAMETERS (FOR PDPS ROUTE) Table 7.13 Parameters Speed Steamer Dwell Time Roof Temp Nip Pressure Set point 3 m/min 1 min 100OC 2 bar
8
HOD: MR. VISHNUPAL BHATNAGAR
8.1 DETAILS ABOUT FOLDING SECTION

INTRODUCTION: After finishing, the fabric comes to the folding department for the inspection and packing. FOLDING DEPARTMENT WORKS IN FIVE SECTIONS: INSPECTION & GRADING GROUPING RECORDING SAMPLING PACKING
INSPECTION & GRADING: On inspection machine various types of defects per counted and according to these defects penalty are given. For this ASQC 4 point system is used (American Society for Quality and Control). Table 8.1 Defect Size Up to 3 3 6 6 9 More than 9 Penalty Points 1 2 3 4
There are four types of defects CONTINUOUS DEFECT: o Any easily perceptible defect in a continuous nature constitutes a continuous defect. It shall be assigned 4 points for each meter. MINOR DEFECT: o These defects up to the length of 1 9. These defects are given penalty points from 1 to 4. MAJOR DEFECTS: o In a piece length up to 100 meters 0 to 6 o 100 to 200 meters 7 to 12
CUTABLE DEFECTS: o Up to sq. inch 4 points o More than sq. inch to be cut. Grading is done asTable 8.2 Grade A AS C D Condition 25 points in 100 m 25 TO 50 points in 100 m But piece length 10 20 m 25 to 50 points in 100 m Continuous defect More than 50 points, Continuous defect
GRADING: Table 8.3 GRADE A AS D S 8.2 METHOD FOR POINT CALCULATION: TO CALCULATE THE POINT/100 SQ. USTRE FOR INDIVIDUAL ROLL: (TOTAL NO. OF POINTS *100*100)/(LENGTH OF ROLL IN MT. * WIDTH IN CM.) DESCRIPTION Fresh Fresh short length(10 20 mt. Major damage Sample
GROUPING:
After inspection grouping is done. In this sample of 15 cm length each role and then grouping is done according to shade. The samples which are closer in shade are kept in one group. RECORDING:
In this process, sort no., lot no., roll no., wt. length grade of the given roll and finally the group of the roll is recorded and saved in computer. We can check the whole information. SAMPLING:
In sampling we cut a 5 m piece from the hosiery and sent to the concerned party for checking. When it goes to the party, party looks its shade, feel, finish and quality finally and gives its approval. For sampling we sent approximately 2 m piece. Sampling is done mainly for marketing persons. Marketing persons goes to party, show the samples and bring order.
PACKING:
After inspection and grading, the roll piece goes for packing. This is the last section of the department. Here packing is done with LLD (linear low density polyethylene). Thickness of this material is 23 micron and wt. of roll is 15 kg. Same particulars like roll no., net wt., sort no., lot no., are written on slip and pasted on fabric.
8.3 LIST OF VARIOUS DEFECTS IN GREY FABRIC:1. Reed mark 2. Reed cut 3. Pulled warp 4. Coarser end 5. Coarser pick 6. Starting mark 7. Float
8. Slack end 9. Double end 10. Double pick 11. Three ply 12. Slubby warp (Long slub) 13. Slubby weft 14. Missing End 15. Missing Pick 16. Broken pick 17. Thick place 18. Un twisted yarn 19. Warp Break with high tension 20. Temple mark 21. Wrong Drawing 22. Wrong Denting 23. Broken Pattern 24. Crack 25. Count mix 26. Stitches 27. Sizing stain 28. Oil & grease stain 29. Dirt stain 30. Tear 31. Defective Selvedge Slack selvedge Tight selvedge Curled selvedge Pulled-in selvedge Uneven selvedge Cut or Burst selvedge 32. Sizing Patches 33. Loose warp yarn 34. Mending impression
35. Contamination defect 36. Shade variation 37. Abrasion 38. COLOUR WARP PATTI 39. Colour weft patti 40. Rubber impration 41. FLUFF STAIN 42. Stoppage mark 43. Handling stain 44. Water mark 45. Crease 46. Colour Dabber 47. oil stain 48. Colored stain 49. Cut selvedge 50. Patches dari 51. Rust stain 52. Moon mark 53. Short width 54. Skew 55. Steamer mark 56. Streakiness 57. Stitch impration 58. Distortion 59. White stain 60. Scroll impration 61. Insect stain 62. Foam Dari 63. Silicate Dari 64. Contamination impration 65. More point 66. Bad appearance 67. Seeding Crease
68. Bundling Crease 69. Non Confirmity 70. Roll Cut 71. Seam Cut 72. Guider Crease Dye 73. More Point Counting 74. Sanforis Crease 75. Guider Crease Finishing 76. Haziness
8.4 MACHINERY USED IN FOLDING DEPARTMENT

Elbit vision system ALMAC inspection machine ALMAC packing machine Panchal
EVS Machine (Elbit Vision System): EVS machine is a computerized inspection machine in which, the fabric inspected with the help of photo cameras. The data has already been fed in the computer. It inspects the fabric according to data and gives penalty points and grade of the fabric. It has six cameras, which catch the damages. After inspection, editing of damages is done. Machine particulars: Table 8.4 MACHINE NAME MAKE NO. OF CAMERAS NO. OF COMPUTERS SPEED NO. OF MACHINE Elbit Vision System Italy 6 4 60 70 m per min 1
INSPECTION MACHINE: Table 8.5 MACHINE NAME MAKE OBJECT NO. OF COMPUTERS NO. OF WORKER NO. OF MACHINE Packing Machine Table 8.6 MACHINE NAME MAKE OBJECT NO. OF MACHINE WEIGHT OF POLY ETHYLENE ROLL THICKNESS 300 Gauge ALMAC Baroda (India) Packing of Fabric 2 15 gm ALMAC Baroda (India) Inspection of fabric 1 2 2
PANCHAL MACHINE Table 8.7 MACHINE NAME MAKE OBJECT NO. OF COMPUTERS NO. OF WORKER NO. OF MACHINES Panchal Panchal Industries Ltd., Gujarat Inspection of fabric 1 1 6
8.5 GROUPING DEPARTMENT: The stripes (samples) from different rolls from folding department are matched with the lab dyed sample (which has been approved by customer) and then the corresponding rolls of fabric are put into different groups. E.g. Samples match with lab dyed sample Yellowish tone More variation in tone of fabric more will be the no. of groups. Group no. 1. Group no. 2. And so on.
9
PRINTING
DEPARTMENT
HOD:
9.1 INTRODUCTION The printing process is also called localized dyeing. Printing involves making colour impression on the fabric of desired colour designs or motifs. The printing department is bifurcated into the following: COLOUR STUDIO SCREEN MAKING DEPARTMENT COLOUR KITCHEN PRINTING MACHINE AFTER TREATMENT MACHINE
COLOUR STUDIO:The colour studio function in the following ways: The colour studio is the section which first receives the designs which may be fabric cut pieces, printouts or some other form from the customers. These designs are analyzed, scanned or digital 12x18 high definition scanners and the digital image produced is edited as required and final modification is made ready. The second way of producing designs is virtue of creating new designs with the help of special software named Adobe Photoshop, Best Image. The artists use their creativity and create directly digital designs.
The final designs in either of the above two ways are then bifurcated according to the number of colours that have been utilized for the designs. The segregation of colours is done so as to develop separate colour printing screens which together constitute the designs. The final output is a set of digital designs which are stored in a CD and send to the next department i.e. the screen making department.
9.2 SCREEN MAKING DEPARTMENT

The screen making department functions into:Screen Degreasing The screens here are used generally of mesh sizes 110.125.155 of Stormac Pentascreen with length 1800mm and repeat size 640mm. The screens are first washed using detergent solution so as to remove any dirt/dust particles, oils, etc. which may otherwise clog the screen pores. Finally given spray washings with fresh water, air dried and fitted with supporting auxiliary rings. Screen Rounding The screens after drying are kept in curing chambers at 180c for 1 hr 30 min 2 hrs for giving it desired circular shape. Photo Chemical Coating The photo chemical is coated on these dry screens by using sophisticated machine of Zimmer Co. The machine is equipped with two squeeze system and variable coating speeds to cater to the desired coating thickness.
Photo Chemical Coating Recipe :1kg Stormak photoemulsiion 50 ml sensitizer (ammonium dichromate) 50-150ml water (as per viscosity) The machine follows the up to down stroke for coating. The coating given is very fine and uniform.
Drying The wet coating is dried in a special chamber Called the clamatiser where drying of photo coat is done at 25-30c for 30 min. The clamatiser has the provision for heating or cooling by air conditioning Finally before the next stage the screens are kept in the A.C rooms for 8 hrs. Screen Engraving Screen engraving is done on a highly sophisticated Computer Scanning Technology. The machine does not utilize any negatives for screen exposing. The digital images developed by the studio are received on a CD. This is loaded on the attached PC. The selected designs are displayed on the monitor, and, then one by one the segregated colour design are printed on the screen one by one for separate colour screens. The machine is provisioned with a special printing head the function exactly like an Inkjet printer. The screens with photo coat received from the previous stage are mounted on the movable horizontal holder taped on sides an inflated so to tighten the screen foe perfect firm circular shape. The printing head uses a special jet black washable ink which is used for printing. The screen is made to rotate on its axis and while printing head rotates linearly making its print impression along the screen length.
After the full desired length is printed with the design the machine also has the provision to expose the photochemical coat with a high intensity xenon lamp attached with the head. Exposing time 1.5min 2min in to and fro direction total time 10 15 min fine designs 20 25 min for thick designs
Developing The exposed engraved screens are unloaded and dipped in water bath at RT for 2-3 min to loosen the ink and the photo chemical underneath it. Finally it is put on a Zimmer developing machine which is equipped with a high intensity water jet and long bristle brushes which remove the unexposed photo coat along with printing ink to reveal its unexposed pores. Air Drying Curing The wet screens are air dried then put in curing chambers at 180c for 1 to 2 hrs for final fixation of the photochemical. End Ring Fixation The end rings are internally coated inside with Adelite adhesive and fitted tightly to the screen on ring fixation machine. The machine has internal coil which is electrically heated inside and generate high temperature enough to dry the adhesive in just 1 min. The screens are now finally ready for print.
9.3 COLOR KITCHEN

The color kitchen functions as: Developing and making the print paste for the actual printing Pigment Printing Recipe Table 9.1 Quantity X-part 10-20% 1.5-3% 2-3% 5% 1.5% 10-15% Y parts 100 gm Total Ingredients Pigment Binder Luprint MCl fixer Lutexsal HEF (97%) thickener Urea Liquor ammonia Kerosene Water- to adjust viscosity
Pigment Discharge Recipe Table 9.2
Quantity X-part 10-20% 1.5-3% 5-6% 5% 1.5% 10-15% Y parts
Ingredients Pigment Binder Luprint MCl fixer Lutexsal HEF (97%) thickener Urea Liquor ammonia Kerosene Water- to adjust viscosity
The same above is recipe with additionally 15-20% Rangolite C and Thickner 5-6%.
Reactive Printing Recipe Table 9.3
QUANTITY 3% 1-1.5% 3% 10-15% 100 kg Total
INGREDIENTS Sod. Alginate- Thickener Resist Salt- Mild Oxidizing Agent Sod. Bicarbonate Urea- Hygroscopic Agent
Vat Discharge Recipe The color kitchen is facilitated with --- High speed stirrers --- Paste filtering machine --- Flat bearing bed
9.4 PRINTING MACHINE

The department has in its proud possession the Zimmer RSD 666 Austria Features of the machine: V-Notch variable repeat size 640mm-1206mm 16 color screen head Individual screen drive and adjustment User- friendly touch screen display panel Electromagnetic squeeze system High efficiency dryer set at 150 160c
AFTERTREATMENT MACHINE The final treatment which are needed for print development and washing are done on the following machines: Steaming machines Manufacturer Functions Working speed Curing
ARIOLI Italy 1 - Steaming/ developing of reactive, vat, discharge prints. - 30 mt/ min
No. Of Machines-
Resin finish required high temperature, which is provided by curing machine. It consists of a batch roll followed by 3 chambers where air is circulated by fans to provide the required temperature. Optimum dwell time is needed for the resin finish to polymerize onto the fabric.
Machine Parameter Made Bruckner No. of heating fan 5 Speed 4 m/min Thread length- 180mt Source of heating- Hot thermal fluid Mode of heating - Radiations
10. CONCLUSION
Our training in NAHAR INDUSTRIAL ENTERPRISES LTD, FABRIC PROCESSING UNIT-2, has been a fruitful and eye-opening experience for us. The training has given us a much-wanted feel of working with a big and a premier organization like the NAHAR GROUP. The people in the company are very good and always ready to provide a helping hand whenever required. After doing training at NAHAR FABRICS LTD we felt the importance of training in industry and its practical applications. When we were studying the theories of different concepts, we were thinking that how all these would be implemented. But after the training, we learnt that how all these could be put to good use. It was the result of the training only that we got to see the objects in real and practical use, which we had only read about and seen as 2-d objects in books. During our two weeks training in, NAHAR FABRICS LTD, we got a chance to expose our self to the industrial culture & work environment. In other words, this TWO WEEKS training was a learning experience all the way. This all happened due the co-operation of the staff and the management, who helped us in gaining whatever knowledge we have today about the production and management. We came to know about various other management programs related to industry, which are used for increasing the productivity and for improving the quality of goods. Moreover, the training aims to bring out better citizens, better technocrats and better diplomats out of us.
At the end, we would like to conclude that the training is an essential part of the technical educational program. We should always pursue for the theoretical as well as the practical knowledge, both of which are must for the foundation of a high building.
11. REFERNCES

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1.

TEXTILE INDUSTRY IN INDIA

1 Nahar Industrial Entp. Ltd.,Fabric Unit-2, Lalru.(Punjab.)

2 Nahar Industrial Entp. Ltd.,Fabric Unit-2, Lalru.(Punjab.)

2. INTRODUCTION TO NAHAR GROUP

2.1 NAHAR GROUP OF COMPANIES INCLUDES:

Nahar Spinning Mills Limited.

Nahar Export Limited.

Nahar Industrial Enterprises Limited

Nahar International Limited

Nahar Sugar and Allied Industries Limited

3 Nahar Industrial Entp. Ltd.,Fabric Unit-2, Lalru.(Punjab.)

2.2 OSWAL WOLLEN MILLS LIMITED, (OWM)

4 Nahar Industrial Entp. Ltd.,Fabric Unit-2, Lalru.(Punjab.)

2.3 NAHAR SPINNING MILLS LIMITED

5 Nahar Industrial Entp. Ltd.,Fabric Unit-2, Lalru.(Punjab.)

6 Nahar Industrial Entp. Ltd.,Fabric Unit-2, Lalru.(Punjab.)

2.4 NAHAR EXPORTS LTD.

7 Nahar Industrial Entp. Ltd.,Fabric Unit-2, Lalru.(Punjab.)

2.5 NAHAR INDUSTRIAL ENTERPRISES LIMITED

8 Nahar Industrial Entp. Ltd.,Fabric Unit-2, Lalru.(Punjab.)

2.6 NAHAR SUGAR and ALLIED INDUSTRIES LIMITED

9 Nahar Industrial Entp. Ltd.,Fabric Unit-2, Lalru.(Punjab.)

2.7 MANAGEMENT OF NAHAR GROUP

11 Nahar Industrial Entp. Ltd.,Fabric Unit-2, Lalru.(Punjab.)

3.1 PLANT LAYOUT

12 Nahar Industrial Entp. Ltd.,Fabric Unit-2, Lalru.(Punjab.)

13 Nahar Industrial Entp. Ltd.,Fabric Unit-2, Lalru.(Punjab.)

3.2 ENTIRE PROCESS FLOW

14 Nahar Industrial Entp. Ltd.,Fabric Unit-2, Lalru.(Punjab.)

INVOICE & DISPATCH

Fig 3.1 Process flow

16 Nahar Industrial Entp. Ltd.,Fabric Unit-2, Lalru.(Punjab.)

The following things are mentioned.

19 Nahar Industrial Entp. Ltd.,Fabric Unit-2, Lalru.(Punjab.)

HOD: Mr. AMIT WALIA

20 Nahar Industrial Entp. Ltd.,Fabric Unit-2, Lalru.(Punjab.)

21 Nahar Industrial Entp. Ltd.,Fabric Unit-2, Lalru.(Punjab.)

Fig.5.1 PROCESS FLOW DIAGRAM:

BALE BALE OPENING OPENING

SINGEING SINGEING & & DESIZING DESIZING

CONTINUOS CONTINUOS PRETREATEUSNT PRETREATEUSNT RANGE RANGE

MERCERISATION MERCERISATION RANGE RANGE

FOR FOR DYEING DYEING Or Or FINISHING FINISHING

22 Nahar Industrial Entp. Ltd.,Fabric Unit-2, Lalru.(Punjab.)

5.2 GREY CHECKING

ply of yarn type of loom serial no. of weaving unit.

23 Nahar Industrial Entp. Ltd.,Fabric Unit-2, Lalru.(Punjab.)

5.3 SINGEING AND DESIZING

24 Nahar Industrial Entp. Ltd.,Fabric Unit-2, Lalru.(Punjab.)

25 Nahar Industrial Entp. Ltd.,Fabric Unit-2, Lalru.(Punjab.)

Fig 5.3 PROCESS FLOW OF SINGEING AND DESIZING

Keep the batch in rotation for 8-12 hours

Table 5.1: SINGEING PARAMETERS

Table 5.2: RECIPE FOR ENZYME DESIZING

ENZYME WETTING AGENT CHILATING AGENT

5 g/l 5 g/l 3 g/l

26 Nahar Industrial Entp. Ltd.,Fabric Unit-2, Lalru.(Punjab.)

Table 5.3 DESIZING PARAMETERS

5.4 CONTINUOUS PRE TREATEMENT RANGE

DESIZE WASHER INTRODUCTION

Fig 5.4 PROCESS FLOW IN DESIZE WASHER