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Spirality Spirality is a dimensional distortion in circular plain knitted fabrics. The wales or needle lines, should occupy a truly vertical line in the fabric and should always be right angles to the cross wise courses of stitches. This perpendicularity of wales to the courses is frequently, not the case and many times the wales may skew to the right or left forming an angle, which appears in the form of a twilled surface.

This geometrical defect has been termed spirality of circular knitted fabrics. The following Figure shows the fabrics with normal loop position and with spirality having wale skewness.

Courses

Courses

Wales

Wales Type equation here. Fig: Fabric with spirality

Fig: Fabric with normal loop position

= Angle of spirality dddddddddaAgn Type equation here.

Spirality has definite influence on both the functional and aesthetic performance of knitted fabrics and their garments. Displacements or shifting of seams during the garment make-up, mismatched patterns due to wale skewness, sewing difficulties etc are some important practical difficulties due to spirality. As the dimensional properties of the fabrics are affected by spirality, it is very difficult to minimize or eliminate it altogether.

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This spirality problem is often corrected in finishing treatments by imposing distortion to fabrics so that the wales straighten out and subsequently set in new from. Though the setting by finishing treatments are normally achieved by using resins, heat, steam, mercerization etc, it is not permanent and after repeated washings, the wale skewness takes place. Theory of spirality The spirality occurred in knitted fabrics is shown in Figure. The fabric is assumed to the knitted with Z twist yarn on a multifeed circular machine, revolving clockwise. Let F = total number of feeders, n= total number of needles, c= courses per unit length, w= wales per unit length

D YF Y Wale

X/ A

F X F L D
/

d Normal to wale line

let, DD/ = position of a wale when total spirality occurs. BB/ = position of a wale when total spirality occurs due to number of feeders. XX/= position of a course when total spirality occurs.

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XA=position of a course when spirality occurs due to number of feeders. X/A= F/C= displace between two consecutive courses knitted by the same feed. XX./ = n/w= open width of the fabric. Let,
Y = angle of spirality due to yarn F = angle of spirality due to number of feeder. YF = total spirality

tanF=

Now, w= tanF =

and c=

therefore, loop factor =

Therefore, F =tan-1(

now, the above relationship shows that the angle of spirality depends on: i) ii) iii) Number of feeders of the machine, Shape of loop in a particular state of relaxation and Number of active needles in the machine which depends on machine gauge and diameter.

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Causes The residual torque in the component yarn caused due to bending & twisting is the most important phenomenon contributing to spirality. The residual torque is shown by its twist liveness. Hence the greater the twist liveness, the greater the spirality. Twist liveness of yarn is affected by the twist factor or twist multiplier. Besides the torque, spirality is also governed by fiber parameters, x-section, yarn formation system, yarn geometry, knit structure & fabric finishing. M/C parameters (no. of feeder, m/c gauge etc.) also contributes to spirality. For instance, with multifeeder circular knitting m/cs, course inclination will be more, thus exhibit spirality. Influencing factors: 1) Count: When the yarn dia reduces its resistance to deformation also decreases. It indicates that deformation of loop structure is influenced by yarn count. In other words the finer the yarn the more will be the spirality due to more twisting. 2) Twist: (a) Twist multiplier: We know, TM=TPI/count So when TM is increased, TPI also increased & the spirality of fabric also increased. TM Spirality(degree) 3.2 3.5 3.8 19.69 25.99 28.96 Twist liveness(cm)

4.2 6.5 7.3

(b) Twist factor: We know, TF= TPcm tex So, when TF is increased, TPcm also increased & spirality of fabric also increased.

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(3) Conditioning: Atmospheric temperature & humidity also greatly affects the spirality. (4) Spinning method: If yarn is produced in ring spinning system, that causes greater spirality than produced in Rotor spinning & air spinning system. (5) Blending of fibre: 100% cotton yarn shows more spirality than 50% polyester-cotton blend yarn. (6) Fabric stitch length: This is the length of one loop in knitted fabric, spirality increases with the decreasing of stitch length. (7) Fabric structure: More spirality in s/j due to non-arrest of loops. By adding moisture to such a structure , the twist will try to revert as it swells, that distorts the shape of the loop. In double jersey, the multifeed pique & honey comb also show spirality even if sometimes two beds are used. Spirality can be noticed in certain jacquard structures. In stripe pattern it increases with the size. No appreciable problem of spirality is there in ribs & interlocks. (8) Fabric tightness: Slack fabric presents higher spirality angle compared to tightly knitted fabrics. At each level of yarn twist factor, the degree of spirality decreases linearly with fabric tightness factor. (9) Fabric relaxation: Fabric relaxation (dry & wet) treatment remover the residual knitting process. The relaxation treatment relieves the residual yarn torque as a result of charges in the molecular structure & increasing yarn mobility. (10) M/C gauge: In knitting terminology, no of needles per inches is called gauge. Smaller the gauge lesser will be the spirality keeping other parameter constant. A proper combination of linear density gauge is required to reduce spirality eg. Torque can be controlled in 20 gauge & 40s count.
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(11) Knitting tension: The effects of various knitting tension including the whole process of loop formation on fabric spirality had been investigated by the researchers. Experimental investigation could not establish consistent tends with respect to variations in fabric quality with knitting tension. The twist factor of ply &single yarn, loop length & fibre dia has significant effects on the angle of spirality, while yarn linear density & fabric tightness factor have comparatively lesser effect. (12) Direction of m/c rotation: Z-twist yarn gives z skew, s-twist gives s-skew to the fabric. With multifeed m/cs , the fabric is created in helix, which gives rise to course inclination & consequently wale spirality . Direction depends on the rotational direction of the knitting m/c. Earlier research work revealed that, for a clockwise rotating m/c, the wale would be inclined towards the left. Thus producing the spirality. (13) Effect of fibre staple length: In case of short staple fibre, cotton yarn liveliness is greater than viscose. So the produced fabric spirality decreased with viscose yarn. The yarn with long staple length has less spirality because of having less twist. For long staple fibre wool has less liveliness than the acrylic fibre.

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(14) Effect of Ring & Rotor Yarn: Spirality change between Ring & Rotor Yarn: Dry relaxed state 4.68 6.71 8.07 4.78 5.48 5.7 Wet relaxed state 4.1 5.05 10.25 4.3 4.3 4.5 Washing at 600C 4.4 6.1 10.4 5.0 5.65 5.05 Washing at 800C 7.9 9.3 10.45 5.5 7.0 9 Washing at 900C 7.9 9.5 11 5.65 7.1 9.05

Ring Yarn

Rotor Yarn

455 0.224 505 0.262 554 0.282 500 0.225 550 0.279 600 0.303

9 8 Spirality Angle (Degree) 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 0.224 0.262 Loop Length (cm) 0.282 Ring Yarn

6 5 Spirality Angle (Degree) 4 3 2 1 0 0.224 0.279 (cm) Loop Length 0.303 Rotor Yarn

Fig: Dry Relaxed State

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12 10 8 6 4 Ring Yarn 2 0 0.224 0.262 Loop Length (cm) 0.282 Spirality Angle (Degree)

9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 0.225 0.279 (cm) Loop Length 0.303 Rotor Yarn

Spirality Angle (Degree)

Fig: Wet Relaxed State

9 8 Spirality Angle (Degree) 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 0.224 0.262 Loop Length (cm) 0.282 Ring Yarn

5.8 Spirality Angle (Degree) 5.6 5.4 5.2 5 Rotor Yarn

4.8 4.6 0.225 0.279 (cm) Loop Length

0.303

Fig: Washing at 600C

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12 10 8 6 4 2 0 0.224 0.262 Loop Length (cm) 0.282 Ring Yarn

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 0.225 0.279 (cm) Loop Length 0.303 Rotor Yarn

Spirality Angle (Degree)

Fig: Washing at 800C

12 10 8 6 4 2 0 0.224 0.262 Loop Length (cm) 0.282 Ring Yarn

Spirality Angle (Degree)

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 0.225 0.279 (cm) Loop Length 0.303 Rotor Yarn

Spirality Angle (Degree)

Fig: Washing at 900C

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Spirality Angle (Degree)

(15) Effect of combed or carded yarn: In same count & TPI the carded yarn has more spirality than the combed yarn. Because carded yarn needs more twist than the co9mbeed yarn. (16) Effect of dyeing: In case of dyeing with dark colors the spirality decreases and for light colors the spirality will be increased. (17) Effect of finishing: Among the finishing machines, the stenter machine controls the form of spirality and this control point is continued during compacting. (18)Effect of clothing: Spirality creates a big problem at the clothing step. It affects the garments as the displacements of the side seam and this causes an important quality problem. Determination of angle of wale spirality

For specimens tested in the original state conditioning is not essential, for processed specimens a minimum of 4 hours in the standard atmosphere is required. Determine accurately the path of the course line; this can be achieved by either placing the base of the protractor or a rule along the course line or drawing a line parallel to the course with a fine tip pen. Determine accurately the path of the wale line that intersects with the drawn course line, draw along this wale line. Place the protractor along a course line ensuring wale intersects with the bottom of the 90 line on the protractor (Figure 4). The angle between the 90 line and wale line is measured and the direction of spirality (+ right, - left) is recorded. Repeat the process nine more times so that ten results are recorded and the mean is determined.

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Figure 4: Schematic representation of the measurement of spirality angle

As per the experts and different world renowned buyers, the angle of spirality lesser than 10 degree is acceptable as performance requirement and it is expected that within that threshold limit knit loops will not pose any serious problem.

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Shrinkage

A dimensional change resulting in a decrease in the length or width of a specimen subjected to specified conditions is known shrinkage. Shrinkage is mainly due to yarn swelling and the resulting crimp increase during washing in case of cotton fabrics. Yarn swelling percentage is more in polyester cotton blending yarn. Reduction in length and width of fabric induced by conditioning, wetting, steaming, chemical treatment, wet processing as in laundering, in chemical practice and in literature the following terms have been used to describe the shrinkage which occurs in testing procedure: a) b) c) d) Relaxation shrinkage, Felting shrinkage, Compressive shrinkage, Residual shrinkage.

a) Relaxation shrinkage: During manufactures fabrics and their component yarns are subjeceted to tension under varying conditions of temperature and moisture content, after manufacturing when the fabric is taken from the machine and keep on floor or store room, then the fabric tends to shrink, this type shrinkage is called relaxation shrinkage. b) Felting shrinkage: In case of wool fibers dimensional changes can be magnified by felting shrinkage. When untreated wool fibers are subjected to mechanical action in the presence of moisture. c) Compressive shrinkage: A process in which fabric is caused to shrink in length by compression. The process often referred to as controlled compressive shrinkage. d) Residual shrinkage: after washing the fabric is shrunk. This type of shrinkage is called residual shrinkage. Residual shrinkage is the main factor of garments industry

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Causes: i) ii) iii) iv) Twist factor; twist factor increases so that shrinkage will be increases. Stitch length; stitch length increases so that shrinkage will be increases. GSM; GSM increases so that shrinkage will be decreases. Elasticity of yarn.

Remedies: 1) In order to maintain the weight at a lower shrinkage, a finer yarn is used. 2) In order to maintain the width, a larger dia knitting machine or a longer stitch length is necessary. 3) In order to maintain the same knitted tightness factor, or cover factor ( square root of tex divided by stitch length) with a finer yarn, a shorter average stitch length must be knitted. 4) Changes in yarn count and stitch length also change the stitch density which again changes the weight and the width for a given level of shrinkage. Changes in the tightness factor will change the extensibility of the fabric and will also affect the amount of spirality (fabric twisting) which may be developed.

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Method of spirality and shrinkage: Method: ISO-6330 Procedure: a) two samples are taken; (62cm62cm) b) Three sides are sewing; one is open. c) A measuring device (50cm50cm); which put on the sample, draw a square of(50cm50cm) on the sample and 6cm is allowance from all sides. d) These sample is taken for washing at 400C temp, in 45min and using detergent(5g/l) e) After washing the sample; it dries in Tumble Dry, Hang Dry and Flat Dry.

D/

C/

Fig: Before Washing

Fig: After Washing

Calculation for spirality percentage: Average deflection length from the seam line = X Y= Sample length, Spirality% = 100

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Example: Average deflection, X = 2cm Sample length, Y = 50cm Spirality% =

2 50

100 = 4%

As per the experience of world renowned retailers in the globe, seam twisting / shape distortion / spirality greater than 6% in tops and shorts and 4% in skirts, pants, dresses, and sleepwear detracts from the appearance of the garment.

Calculation for shrinkage percentage: Shrinkage percentage = (L0-L1) 100/L0 Where, L0 = the distance between the datum line before washing and L1 = the distance between datum lines after washing.

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Practical data: Tumble dry Single Jersey 120 GSM (Yarn Type: Cotton) Sample No. Shrinkage Length wise -4.5% -1.51% -0.74 +.44 0 Width wise -5% -4.16% -2.41 -3.92 -6.12 Twisting maximum (cm) 2.8 2.5 2 2.4 2.5 Spirality

01 02 03 04 05

5.6 5 4 4.8 5

Single Jersey 130 GSM (Yarn Type: Cotton) 01 02 03 04 05 -7.4% -0.74 -4 -2.22 -3.75 -5% -2.09 -4.9 -3.92 -0.99 2 2.3 1.9 1 1.8 4 4.6 3.8 2 3.6

Single Jersey 140 GSM (Yarn Type: Cotton) 01 02 03 04 05 -3.62 -3.7 -3.43 -5.18 0 -1.96 -0.96 -6.06 -4.12 -4 1.5 1.3 1.7 1.4 1.5 3 2.6 3.4 2.8 3

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Single Jersey 160 GSM (Yarn Type: Cotton) 01 02 03 04 05 -0.72 -3.67 -1.17 -2.14 0 -4 -3.84 -5.10 -5.82 -3 1 0.8 0.9 1.6 1 2 1.6 1.8 3.2 2

Single Jersey 180 GSM (Yarn Type: Cotton) 01 02 03 04 05 -2.18 0 -4.83 -1.17 -0.72 -4.73 -4.95 -3.84 -3.84 -6.79 0.5 1.1 0.7 0.5 0.5 1 2.20 1.4 0.72 0.75

6 5 4 Spirality (%) 3 2 1 0 120 GSM 130 GSM 140 GSM 160 GSM 180 GSM

Single Jersey Fabric GSM (Cotton)

Fig: Relation between GSM & Spirality% (Tumble Dry)

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1 s h r i n k a g e 0 i n L w e i n s g e t h -1 -2 -3 -4 -5 -6 -7 -8 single jersey fabric GSM(Cotton) 120 GSM 130GSM 140 GSM 160 GSM 180GSM

(
%

)
s W h i r d i n i t k n h w a i g s e e % ( )

0 -1 -2 -3 -4 -5 -6 -7 -8 single jersey fabric GSM(Cotton) 120 GSM 130GSM 140 GSM 160 GSM 180GSM

Fig: Relation between GSM & Shrinkage% (Tumble Dry)

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Hang dry

Single Jersey 120GSM (Yarn Type: Cotton) Sample No. Shrinkage Length wise -7.4% -0.74 -4 -2.22 -3.75 Width wise -5% -2.09 -4.9 -3.92 -0.99 Twisting maximum (cm) 2 2.3 1.9 1 1.8 Spirality

01 02 03 04 05

4 4.6 3.8 2 3.6

Single Jersey 130GSM (Yarn Type: Cotton) 01 02 03 04 05 -3.62 -3.7 -3.43 -5.18 0 -1.96 -0.96 -6.06 -4.12 -4 1.5 1.3 1.7 1.4 1.5 3 2.6 3.4 2.8 3

Single Jersey 140 GSM (Yarn Type: Cotton) 01 02 03 04 05 -0.72 -3.67 -1.17 -2.14 0 -4 -3.84 -5.10 -5.82 -3 1 0.8 0.9 1.6 1 2 1.6 1.8 3.2 2

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Single Jersey 160 GSM (Yarn Type: Cotton) 01 02 03 04 05 -2.18 0 -4.83 -1.17 -0.72 -4.73 -4.95 -3.84 -3.84 -6.79 0.5 1.1 0.7 0.5 0.5 1 2.20 1.4 0.72 0.75

Single Jersey 180 GSM (Yarn Type: Cotton) 01 02 03 04 05 -4.37 -4.34 -2.17 -4.34 -4.83 -4 -4.9 -4.95 -3.84 -1.94 1 0.5 1.2 1 0.5 1.45 0.72 1.73 1.47 0.72

5 4.5 4 3.5 Spirality (%) 3 2.5 2 1.5 1 0.5 0 120 GSM 130 GSM 140 GSM 160 GSM 180 GSM

Single Jersey Fabric GSM (Cotton)

Fig: Relation between GSM & Spirality% (Hang Dry)

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0 120 GSM s h r i n k a g e -1 i n L w e i n s g e t h -2 -3 -4 -5 -6 -7 single jersey fabric GSM(Cotton) 130GSM 140 GSM 160 GSM 180GSM

(
%

)
0 i n W i d t h -1 -2 -3 -4 -5 -6 -7 -8 s h r i n k a g w e i % s e ( )

120 GSM

130GSM

140 GSM

160 GSM

180GSM

single jersey fabric GSM(Cotton)

Fig: Relation between GSM & Shrinkage% (Hang Dry)

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Flat dry

Single Jersey 120GSM (Yarn Type: Cotton) Sample No. Shrinkage Length wise -3.62 -4 -3.43 -5.18 0 Width wise -1.96 -4.9 -6.06 -4.12 -4 Twisting maximum (cm) 1.5 1.9 1.7 1.4 1.5 Spirality

01 02 03 04 05

3 3.8 3.4 2.8 3

Single Jersey 130GSM (Yarn Type: Cotton) 01 02 03 04 05 -0.72 -3.67 -1.17 -2.14 -4.83 -4 -3.84 -5.10 -5.82 -3.84 1 0.8 0.9 1.6 0.7 2 1.6 1.8 3.2 1.4

Single Jersey 140 GSM (Yarn Type: Cotton) 01 02 03 04 05 -2.18 0 -4.83 -1.17 -0.72 -4.73 -4.95 -3.84 -3.84 -6.79 0.5 1.1 0.7 0.5 0.5 1 2.20 1.4 0.72 0.75

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Single Jersey 160 GSM (Yarn Type: Cotton) 01 02 03 04 05 -4.37 -4.34 -2.17 -4.34 -4.83 -4 -4.9 -4.95 -3.84 -1.94 1 0.5 1.2 1 0.5 1.45 0.72 1.73 1.47 0.72

Single Jersey 180 GSM (Yarn Type: Cotton) 01 02 03 04 05

4 3.5 3 Spirality (%) 2.5 2 1.5 1 0.5 0 120 GSM 130 GSM 140 GSM 160 GSM 180 GSM

-4.34 -0.72 -4.83 -2.17 -4.37

-4.9 -6.79 -3.84 -4.95 -4

0.5 0.5 0.7 1.2 1

0.72 0.75 1.4 1.73 1.45

Single Jersey Fabric GSM (Cotton)

Fig: Relation between GSM & Spirality% (Flat dry)

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0 s h r i n k a g e % i n L e n g t h w i s e 120 GSM -1 -2 -3 -4 -5 -6 130GSM 140 GSM 160 GSM 180GSM

single jersey fabric GSM (Cotton)

0 s h r i n k a g e % i n 120 GSM W i d t h w i s e -1 -2 -3 -4 -5 -6 130GSM 140 GSM 160 GSM 180GSM

single jersey farbic GSM (Cotton)

Fig: Relation between GSM & Shrinkage% (Flat dry)

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Tumble dry Single Jersey 120 GSM (Yarn type: Polyester) Shrinkage Length wise +1 0 -1 +0.75 +2 Width wise +2 +1 -2 +1 +1 Tw spirality

01 02 03 04 05 Hang dry

1 1.1 1.4 1.6 1.2

2 2.2 2.8 3.2 2.4

Single Jersey 120 GSM (Yarn type: Polyester) Shrinkage Length wise +0.75 Width wise +1 Tw spirality

01

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02 03 04 05 Flat dry

0 -1 +0.75 +1

+1 -2 +1 +2

0.75 1.07 0.9 1.08

1.5 2.1 1.9 2.3

Single Jersey 120 GSM (Yarn type: Polyester) Shrinkage Length wise +1 0 -1 +0.75 +2 Width wise +2 +1 -2 +1 +1 Tw spirality

01 02 03 04 05

0.9 0.5 1.05 0.75 0.6

1.8 1 2.1 1.5 1.2

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3.5 3 2.5 Spirality (%) 2 1.5 1 0.5 0 120 GSM (Tumble Dry) 120 GSM (Hang Dry) Single Jersey Fabric GSM (polyester) 120 GSM (Flat Dry)

Fig: Relation between GSM & Spirality% for polyester yarn in different dry conditions.

2.5 s h r i n k a g e % i n L e n g t h w i s e 2 1.5 1 0.5 0 -0.5 -1 -1.5 single jersey fabric GSM (Polyester) Tumble Dry(120 GSM) Hang Dry (120GSM) Flat Dry (120GSM)

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2.5 s h r i n k a g e % i n 2 W i d t h w i s e 1.5 1 0.5 0 -0.5 -1 -1.5 -2 -2.5 single jersey fabric GSM (Polyester) Tumble Dry(120 GSM) Hang Dry (120GSM) Flat Dry (120GSM)

Fig: Relation between GSM & Shrinkage% for polyester yarn in different dry conditions.

Tumble dry PK 220 GSM (Yarn type: Cotton) Shrinkage Length wise -4.37 -4.34 -2.17 -4.34 -4.83 Width wise -4 -4.9 -4.95 -3.84 -1.94 Tw spirality

01 02 03 04 05

1 0.5 1.2 1 0.5

1.45 0.72 1.73 1.47 0.72

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1*1 Rib 220 GSM (Yarn Type: Cotton) 1 02 03 04 05 -3.64 -4.85 0 -2.89 0 +1.04 -3.49 -3 -5.05 -4 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.65 0.5 0.72 0.76 0.72 1.3 0.74

Interlock 220 GSM (Yarn Type: Cotton) 01 02 03 04 05

2 1.8 1.6 1.4 Spirality (%) 1.2 1 0.8 0.6 0.4 0.2 0 PK (220 GSM) 1*1 Rib (220GSM) Interlock (220GSM)

-3.93 -2.17 -1.15 -1.48 -4.34

0 -1.9 -2.91 -2.04 -2.02

0.6 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5

1.2 0.75 0.75 0.72 0.72

Fig: Relation between GSM & Spirality% of different types of fabrics (Tumble Dry)

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0 s h r i n k a g e % i n PK(22O GSM) L e n g t h w i s e -1 -2 -3 -4 -5 -6 2 s h r i n k a g e % i n 1 W i d t h w i s e 0 -1 -2 -3 -4 -5 -6 PK(22O GSM) 1*1 Rib(220GSM) Interlock (220GSM) 1*1 Rib(220GSM) Interlock (220GSM)

Fig: Relation between GSM & Shrinkage% of different types of fabrics (Tumble Dry)

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Tumble dry Terry Fleece 300 GSM (Yarn type: Cotton) Shrinkage Length wise -0.74 -3.49 -2.85 -5.07 -1.44 Width wise -1.05 -3.03 -2.04 -1.01 -0.97 Tw spirality

01 02 03 04 05

0.5 1.8 1.5 1 1

0.75 2.58 2.9 2 1.44

Fleece 300 GSM (Yarn Type: Cotton) 01 02 03 04 05 -2.72 -7.64 -4.41 -1.47 -4.34 +1.03 -3.55 -2 -2.06 -1 1 0.5 0.7 2 1.5 1.48 0.72 1.02 2.94 2.17

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3.5 3 2.5 Spirality (%) 2 1.5 1 0.5 0 Terry Fleece (300 GSM) Fleece(300 GSM)

Fig: Relation between GSM & Spirality% of different fabrics (Tumble Dry)
0 s h r i n k a g e % i n L e n g t h w i s e -1 -2 -3 -4 -5 -6 -7 -8 -9 Terry Fleece(300GSM) Fleece(300GSM)

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2 s h r i n k a g e % i n 1 0 Terry Fleece(300GSM) -1 -2 -3 -4 Fleece(300GSM)

w i d t h w i s e

Fig: Relation between GSM & Shrinkage% of different fabrics (Tumble Dry)

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Control of spirality and shrinkage in finishing section

In finishing section fabric GSM, Spirality and shrinkage being controlled in various finishing machine such as squeezer, dryer, open & tube compactor and stenter. Some descriptions are given below:

Squeezer:
Textile materials such as knitted fabrics are usually extended in length wise direction due to tension specially in dyeing process. When the dyed fabrics are passed through the squeezer dia of the fabric can be controlled by adjusting the width of the spreader frame by controlling width wise shrinkage. Squeezer machine helps to remove water from the fabric. Specification: Name: squeezer machine. Brand: SANTAX Origin: Switzerland. Data: Squeezer Fabric type Single jersey Single jersey Single Lacoste Double lacoste Interlock Flat back rib Color Navy Dark red Sky blue GSM 180 160 150 Machine speed 20 20 20 20 20 20 Over feed +30% 25% 20% 25% 18% 15% Dia 60 60 69 66 108 75 Dia+ +4 +4 +4 +4 +5 +5

Avg(wood) 180 black black 210 340

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Dryer:
Some water droplet trapped within the fibers and yarns by hydrogen bond are not removable by squeezing, so to remove these water, the material must be dried. When the squeezed fabric is passed through the dryer air passing through top and bottom side to the fabric and makes a wavy shape which helps to keep fabric in relax form and control length wise shrinkage due to overfeeding which depends on the amount of shrinkage and expected GSM of the finished fabric. Specification: Name: Dryer machine Brnad: SANTAX Origin: Switzerland Data: Drying Fabric type Single jersey Single jersey Single Lacoste Double lacoste Interlock Flat back rib Color Navy Dark red Sky blue GSM 180 160 150 Line speed 7.1 7.1 10 7 6.7 8.1 Over feed 25% 25% 25% 25% 30% 20% temperature Vibration

110/120/130 600 110/120/130 600 147/150/153 600 100/120/130 600 148/150/153 640 155/160/165 650

Avg(wood) 180 black black 210 340

Compactor:
Compactor is the most is the most important machine in the finishing section. It helps to controls fabric width, GSM of the fabric and shrinkage. Data: compactor Fabric type Color GSM Line speed Compaction% dia

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Single jersey Single jersey Single Lacoste Double lacoste Interlock Flat back rib

Navy Dark red Sky blue

180 160 150

40 40 25 40 40 40

8% 6% 8% 18% 15% 15%

+4 +3 +3 +5 +8 +2

Avg(wood) 180 black black 210 340

In compactor, pre shrinkage treatment is done here. Finally GSM and width are controlled in this section. Shoe: electric heating system Temperature: 98-1050C Gulling shoe button: used to move the shoe upward and downward. Feed and retard roller: heat is given by steam, temperature for both rollers: 60-800C(set: 60-750C) retard roll speed is less than feed roll during compacting. Shape is used for adjusting the fabric dia before compacting. The sizes of shape are: Size 1: 80-120cm Size 2: 60-92cm Size 3: 52-70cm Size 4: 38-50cm

GSM and shrinkage control mechanism:

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Dia mark is adjusted manually by feeding the fabric through the middle of feed pulley of the sap. Before compacting the fabric, it is damped by spraying the steam from the steam box. As the feed roller speed is greater than the retard roll, the fabric is shrunk in length wise. The blade and the heated shoe are used to give the calendaring effect. The distance between the blade and the heated shoe is very important for compacting. The closer the distance, higher the compaction percentage. The sap controls finished dia of the fabric. If length wise shrinkage is more than required, the fabric is wetted again and dried. Dried fabric is again compacted by extending the width of the fabric by sap. Retard roller speed is always slower than feed roll. The speed for the retard roll is expressed as negative value. It varies according to the design and structure of the fabric. As for an example: Types of fabric Single jersey Interlock and rib Single jersey fleece Single and double lacoste, pique Lycra single jersey Retard roll over speed -(6-12)% -(10-25)% -(20-30)% -(15-25)% -(30-35)%

Stenter:
In Stenter machines some chemicals i.e. softener, starch are used in fabric for smoothness of fabric and other properties. Fabric GSM, shrinkage, width also controlled. Specification: Name: Stenter machine Mahine bran d: FABCON Origin: USA Data: Stenter Fabric type Single Color GSM Required Finished dia dia 60 61
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Navy

180

Finished Shrinkage Shrinkage GSM in length in width wise wise 178 -5% -4%

jersey Single jersey Single Lacoste Double lacoste Interlock Flat back rib

Dark red Sky blue

160 150

60 69 66 108 75

61 68 63 109 75

155 147 165 210 345

-4% -3% -7% -2% -4%

-2% -7% -9% -4% -3%

Avg(wood) 180 black black 210 340

Here we see that length wise shrinkage is more than that for width wise shrinkage. Width wise shrinkage is negative i.e. width of fabric increased. During the dyeing period, fabric extends length wise in highest possible maximum range. The main reason for this extension is its behavior. Normally higher the GSM, lower the shrinkage, it is not true during processing because generally fabric width less than required width, so we can say that fabric GSM increases and decreases with fabric with decreases and increases in processing.

Loop dimension changes at different stages: 1) After scouring, bleaching and dyeing: Loops are extended in lengthwise because of continuous tensioning on the fabric. Thus the fabric is elongated length wise but shrunk in widthwise. 2) After dewatering and squeezing: The loops are smaller than the previous one. It is controlled by the overfeeding of Albatross lower roll (the lower roll is faster than upper roll) 3) After compacting or stentering: Loops are of perfect size because finished fabric width is controlled accurately. Besides this, the fabric is compacted length wise considering the standard shrinkage allowance.

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In general the angle of spirality values are decreasing, when the tightness factor values are getting tight in the all knitted fabric samples. In slack knitted fabric structures, the loop can easily find area to rotate so spirality is increasing. The spirality angle of the fabrics knitted with ring yarns are very high comparing with the fabrics knitted with open-end yarns. This shows the effect of the spiraled on twist liveliness. Because the twist liveliness of the ring yarns used in producing single jersey fabric is higher than the open-end yarns used in producing single jersey fabrics. Fabrics shrinkage depends on different fabric structure i.e; single jersey, rib, interlock and their derivatives. Yarn composition i.e; 100% cotton and polyester and synthetic yarn. More research and development is required to control the fabric specifications accurately. We could not able to execute the project work perfectly for limitations of time and lack of opportunity to examine the various tests in the factory.

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Bibliography: 1) Principle of textile testing; -J.E. Booth (Third Edition) 2) Watsons textile design and color -Z. Grosicki (7th Edition) 3) www.indiantextilejournal.com 4) www.emeraldinsight.com 5) www.encyclopedia.com 6) www.fibre2fashion.com

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