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Sandy D'Amato | The Kitchen Technician Cool gazpacho


Posted: Sep. 23, 2007 Gazpacho, once an exotic revolutionary cold soup, has become the bellwether of seasonal change for many restaurants internationally. It says "summer is here" and, when prepared right, it is a true taste of the season. Gazpacho started as a mixture of stale bread, garlic, salt, vinegar and oil. Cooks later added raw vegetables to fortify it. The classic Andalusian (southern Spain) version consists of the above with the addition of ripe red tomatoes, cucumbers, green peppers and onions. It is a liquid salad that shows off the best of seasonal produce. There are two other main types of gazpacho and both are white. One is from Extremadura (a bit west of center in Spain), and it consists of a bread, oil, vinegar and garlic base with the addition of cucumbers and peppers. The other is from Malaga (a port city in southern Spain) and is called Ajo Blanco or white garlic. It adds fresh almonds to the base and is garnished with peeled grapes. Today's gazpacho was inspired by both of the white gazpachos and the beautiful firm green tomatoes I found at the farmers market. Mixed with a bit of tomatillos, cucumbers, cilantro and green grapes, it is pureed into a light and bright green gazpacho. The garnish of roasted almonds, cilantro and sliced grapes adds a nice crunch and freshness to the soup and makes this a perfectly indulgent way to extend the summer as long as possible. Sanford S " andy"D'Amato, chef/co-owner of Sanford Restaurant, 1547 N. Jackson St., Coquette Cafe, 316 N. Milwaukee St., and Harlequin Bakery, is a James Beard Award winner. For more information, visit www.sanfordrestaurant.com.

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12/3/2008 2:23 PM

Cool

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RECIPES Green Tomato and Grape Gazpacho


Makes 8 to 10 servings 1 pounds green tomatoes, washed, cored and cut into medium dice 1 pound tomatillos, husk removed, washed and cut into medium dice 1 medium onion ( pound), peeled, sliced, rinsed under warm water and drained 3 cloves garlic ( ounce), peeled, sliced, rinsed under warm water and drained 1 pound seedless green grapes, washed 2 cucumbers (8 ounces each), peeled, seeds removed and chopped into medium-size pieces cup loosely packed mint leaves, cleaned 1 cups loosely packed cilantro (some stems), cleaned (see note) 2 cups loosely packed parsley leaves, cleaned 1 serrano pepper (about ounce), sliced, with seeds 5 tablespoons ground ginger, or less to taste 3 tablespoons ground cumin 3 tablespoons ground fennel 1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons kosher salt (about) 1 tablespoon freshly ground black pepper (about) 4 tablespoons lemon juice (about) 2 tablespoons cider vinegar 6 pasteurized eggs (divided) 2 cups olive oil (divided) Toasted, salted sliced almonds and sliced green grapes for garnish teaspoon almond or walnut oil for garnish In large bowl, mix all ingredients except eggs, olive oil and garnishes. Place one-third of the mixture in blender and blend until fine. Add 2 eggs and keep blending, about 20 seconds. With blender running, slowly add one-third of the olive oil to emulsify. Strain through a medium strainer. Repeat same process in two more batches in blender and when all is strained, adjust seasoning if necessary, with salt, pepper and lemon juice.

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Chill in refrigerator until cold. Serve soup garnished with almonds, grapes and cilantro leaves and drizzle with almond or walnut oil. Note: Save some of the leftover cilantro leaves for garnish. Archives When in Rome, do as the taste buds would Cranberry tart brings meal to a sweet close Hazelnuts roasting set the heart afire Hearts melt when cheese meets bread Squash dumplings fit the season and senses Bikers in Italy take to wheels of cheese 2,000 filets gave me the willies Follow taste buds, not chef Fishing for fond memories Shrimp dish good enough for jumbo billboard Right ranch can make salad, day perfect Dramatic service won't upstage veal piccata Yes, folks in Milwaukee want to eat good food Ring dinner bell for Asian chops Grill tuna for a quick dinner Guess who wins in showdown between chef and popular dish? Getting to the root of a good lunch in N.Y. Scratching that 11-year itch When it comes to chowder, I'll take Manhattan Young chef changes rooms and his perspective

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