Places Kayaking to the "Eiffel Tower"

by David Manzo
ments to maritime safety. Faulkner's Island is located along the Atlantic Flyway, abird migrationroute, so both common and rare roseate terns end their long flights from South America to breed on the island. Unfortunately erosion has taken its toll, as Faulkner's Island has shrunk to nearly half its original size. By 1990 even the lighthouse's foundation was threatened. Thanks to the determination of Faulkner's Light Brigade (FaulknersLight.org), public and private funds have been allocated to save the historic Faulkners Island Lighthouse and the tern's breeding grounds. Due to the importance of the breeding grounds, the island and the lighthouse, with one exception, are closed to the public. For one weekend each year, visitors are welcome to Faulkner's Island and can climb the winding stairs to the lighthouse lantern, the only active lighthouse located on an island in the State of Connecticut. The 2013 Open House is scheduled for Saturday, Sept. 7th and Sunday, Sept. 8th. Given the unique opportunity to visit the island, expect a line to climb the lighthouse steps. While we waited on our trip, a group serenaded us with sea shanties, classic maritime work songs. The most direct route to Faulkner's Island begins at the East River Boat Launch, 168 Circle Beach Road, Guilford, Ct. Directions can be found at http:// www.lisrc.uconn.edu/coastalaccess/site. asp?siteid=464&maptool=3. The launch is open year round, has parking for 25 vehicles, and chemical toilets (seasonal). From the launch, your round trip is seven miles. If you enjoy new navigational technology, try the Navionics iPhone or iPad app. In addition to giving kayakers complete maritime maps, the precise information Navionics offers about winds, tides, and currents is indispensible. For example, Navionics offers tide times as well as tidal elevation changes in feet at Faulkner's Island. In addition, Navionics offers information on tidal

Faulkner's Island from the air. U.S. Coast Guard photo..

Faulkner's Island Light on open House Day, 2012. Photo by David Manzo.

S
8

As described by lighthouse historian Jeremy DEntremont, Faulkner's Island Lighthouse (41 12 43 N, 72 39 15 W), the majestic stone sentinel that stands threeand-one-half miles offshore of Gilford, Ct., on a crescent shaped island, is the Eiffel Tower of Long Island Sound. The 46-foot tall, octagonal shaped structure is built of brownstone, painted white, and lined with brick. With increased shipping traffic and vessels encountering the dangerous shallows and shoals in the area near Faulkner's Island, President Thomas Jefferson commissioned Connecticut's second lighthouse in 1802. Stonemason Abisha Woodward hort on time or the cash for that trip to built Faulkner Light one year after comParis you've dreamed about? Why not pleting New London Harbor Light. With paddle to the Eiffel Tower of Long Is- 21 lighthouses, the Connecticut coast offers kayakers first-hand views of iconic testaland Sound?

Atlantic Coastal Kayaker September 2013

currents at nearby Sachem Head. During our trip at flood tide the current was moving at 1.50 MPH 255 degrees. I also suggest the NOAA Buoy Data Reader, which offers wind direction, speed and gusts as well as air and water temperature. A second, longer and more interesting and challenging route is to launch from the Town Dock at Stony Creek, in Branford, Ct. Directions can be found at lisrc.uconn. edu/coastalaccess/site.asp?siteid=866. The launch is open year round, but has a very limited 15-minute "drop-off" parking area. Additional parking may be found at the baseball field at West Point Road. Chemical toilets are available seasonally. From the launch, your round trip is approximately 14 Map from Google earth by David Eden. miles. Stony Creek is home to the Thimble Islands, an archipelago consisting of hun- note that its granite quarry contributed to dreds of small islands made of pink gran- the construction the Lincoln Memorial, the ite bedrock. The Mattabeseck tribe called base of the Statue of Liberty, and Grants' the area Kuttomquosh, "the beautiful sea Tomb. rocks." From Stony Creek paddle south Whether or not the lighthouse is open, past Potato, Governor, High and Horse Is- the paddle to the Eiffel Tower of Long Islands to Outer Island. At Outer Island, look land Sound is worth the trip. The lighthouse to see if the green "OPEN" flag is flying. beckons kayakers every 10 seconds with a If so, enjoy the island. Thanks to a volun- flashing white light that can be seen, on a teer organization called Friends of Outer clear day, for 13 miles. From your kayak Island (FriendsOfOuterIsland.org), visita- look up at the structure that saved lives for tion is permitted from the end of May until centuries, then circumnavigate the island to late September. All other Thimble Islands get a glimpse of the common and rare roseare privately owned. (Connecticut Coastal ate terns knowing that they will fly many Kayaking also offers comprehensive tours more miles than you have paddled when of the Thimble Islands at ctcoastalkayaking. they return to South America for the winter. com.) From Outer Island head southeast ap- Sources and Additional Information: proximately six miles to Faulkner Island. Connecticut Place Names Note that this portion of the trip is not shelby Arthur Hughes and Allen Morse tered and strong crosswinds may buffet you. The Lighthouses of Connecticut Using Navionics check the water current by Jeremy DEntremont speeds at Sachem Head and plan your trip Lights and Legends to take advantage of wind direction and curby Harlan Hamilton rent speed. Returning from Faulkner Island, FaulknersLight.org hug the Connecticut shoreline and enjoy the LighthouseFriends.com views of Sachems Head. On your return to NewEnglandLighthouses.net the Thimble Islands look for islands with Navionics for the iPhone and iPad unique names like Cut-in-Two, Frisbie, or The Faulkner Island Tern Project Mother-in-Law. As you pass Bear Island, The Thimble Islands, Wikipedia

David Manzo is president of Cotting School, teaches urban studies at Boston College and is an ACA instructor. He has previously contributed articles to ACK about kayaking in Boston, Connecticut, and New York City. He can be reached at davidwilliammanzo@ gmail.com. The breakwater and dock from the top of the light. Photo by David Manzo.

Atlantic Coastal Kayaker September 2013