A PROPOSAL FOR
Submitted by: Espedillon, Marigold May L. Grageda, Glenda Mae V. Herrera, Erika Claudine G. Lalo, Erika Gayle E. BSECE 5-1
Here, we propose a vertically polarized quad loop antenna. A vertically polarized quad loop can be considered as two shortened top-loaded vertical dipoles, spaced /4 apart. Broadside radiation from the horizontal elements of the quad is cancelled, because of the opposition of currents in the vertical legs. The wave angle in the broadside direction will be essentially the same as for either of the vertical members. The resulting radiation angle will depend on the quality of the ground up to several wavelengths away from the antenna, as is the case with all vertically polarized antennas. The quality of the reflecting ground will also influence the gain of the vertically polarized loop to a great extent. The quality of the ground is as important as it is for any other vertical antenna, meaning that vertically polarized loops close to the ground will not work well over poor soil.
The figure shows both the azimuth and elevation radiation patterns of a vertically polarized quad loop with a top height of 0.3 (bottom wire at approximately 0.04 ). This is a very realistic situation, especially on 80 meters. The loop radiates an excellent low-angle wave (lobe peak at approximately 21) when operated over average ground. Over poorer ground, the
wave angle would be closer to 30. The horizontal directivity is rather poor, and amounts to approximately 3.3 dB of side rejection at any wave angle. The quad antenna that we propose to design is specifically to operate in the frequency band of 140-150 MHz. It displays a bi-directional radiation pattern with maximum radiation in the direction perpendicular to the plane of the loop. By carefully following the instruction for constructing this antenna we should be able to get an SWR response of less than 1.5:1 over the entire band.
Construction First, prepare the plastic mount with dimensions shown in Figure 1
Figure 1
Next, prepare the metallic mast adaptor. As shown in the following illustration, the distance between one pair of 3/16" holes at the extreme ends is equal to the distance between the threaded ends of the U-bolt used (see Figure 2).
Join the two plates together using four 3/16" x 1" stove bolts made of rust resistant materials (e.g. brass or stainless steel). Do not forget to include a lockwasher in each bolt (see Figure 3).
Bend the aluminum tube into a square loop with equal sides using a suitable tube bender (see Figure 4). Cut away the excess tube.
Flatten a small portion at both ends of the tube and drill a hole (1/8" diameter) in each flattened end (see Figure 5).
Figure 5
Drill additional holes (1/8" diameter) in the tube as shown in the following illustration (Figure 6). The holes must be drilled through and through. Be careful in drilling the holes to avoid deforming the tube.
Figure 6
Insert two stove bolts (1/8" x 3/8") through the holes at both ends of the loop and attach the necessary hardware as shown in Figure 7.
Figure 7
Attach the prepared loop into the plastic mounting plate by bolting it through the 1/8" diameter holes as shown in the following illustration. Use 1/8" x 1" stove bolts (brass or stainless steel). See Figure 8.
Prepare one end of the coax cable by separating the inner conductor from the copper braid. Solder the two conductors to the two eye terminals in the loop. The braid is costumarily connected to the lower terminal (see Figure 9).
Clamp the coaxial cable to the plastic mounting plate (see Figure 10).
Figure 10