Thank you so much for purchasing the Art Caddy PDF Pattern!

I love for my kids to draw and create as much as they want. Unfortunately this often means dragging papers, crayons, stickers, scissors, and pencils all over the house. I was cleaning all this up for the 100th time and this idea came to me- make an organizer for all their art in one place! Make a couple of these and each kid can move their personal art station all over the house and then pack it back up to move again!

Here are a few things that I dont include in the instructions because I assume you will do them throughout this project... *Make a habit of doing a short backstitch at the beginning and end of each line you sew. *Whenever you nish sewing a section, clip your threads. *Measure 3 times and cut once! Being precise and careful when cutting out your pattern will make everything t together and work nicely.

Materials needed...
cotton Material (quilt weight is best) 1/2 yard for exterior (or 3/4 yard if you are making bag all one print) 1/4 yard for contrasting pockets (if you choose) 1/2 yard for interior 2 yards of 20 wide fusible interfacing- medium weight 1 yard thick heavy double sided fusible interfacing (almost like cardboard but bends) heavy duty or jeans sewing machine needle sewing machine iron & ironing board 1/4 yard cotton all natural batting coordinating thread pencil, pen & chalk scissors, rotary cutter and self healing mat 12 ruler 48 of 1 wide grosgrain ribbon (or make fabric handles with 2 pieces of 12 x 4 cotton fabric)

Instructions...
1. Begin by cutting out all the pattern pieces using your rotary cutter and self healing mat. You will need to make decisions about fabric coordinating here. See Figure 1 for how I did it. It is really important to do a good job here and make sure you are accurate. This should take you awhile! I know its a lot of pieces but we need to make it nice and thick to stand up to all those coloring books! Start with the exterior base pieces (A, B, & C).. Be sure to cut all pieces with the grain! Fuse matching interfacing to each piece. Now lay matching cotton batting behind each piece. Set aside for a moment on a table so you can start to layer your pockets on top. 2. Now you need to construct the pockets. Start with the side pockets. You should have 2 pieces of cotton from pattern piece D. Fuse interfacing to the wrong side of each piece. To make the top edge of the pocket, fold the top edge under 1/4, press, then fold it again 1/2 and press. Sew the top down about 3/8 from top edge. Repeat this process on the other D piece and also the two E pieces. These 4 pocket pieces can now be layered on top of the two side pieces (B from pattern). You will see that the next several steps are all about layering! First line up D matching the bottom

B
FIGURE 1 This photo is to show you how all the layers come together. You will layer together each side in Step 2 and then sew the sides (A & B) to the base C in Step 3

D E

1/8 seam allowance

Layer D on top of B & then E on top of D- pin to hold in place but dont sew BDE to C until step 3.

edge of B. Then place E on top, again lining up from the bottom on top of D which is on top of B! Take some pins and secure these layers together. Make sure everything is lying at and ts together. Trim excess using piece B as guide if you need to so all pieces match. From bottom to top it should be cotton batting, fused piece B, fused piece D & fused piece E. See Figure 1. Now to do the pockets on the front A pieces. You should have 2 pieces of cotton from pattern piece F. Fuse interfacing to the wrong side of each piece. This is going to be the same method as above in which you fold over the long top edge 1/4 and again 1/2 and then press. The only difference is that you also fold under the long bottom edge 1/4 and iron. Sew a line 3/8 from the top edge. Leave the bottom un sewn for now. Both pieces F are done the same. Place one of these F pieces 3 up from what is the bottom of one of the layered A pieces (layered with the cotton batting underneath the already fused piece of cotton fabric). Sew the

bottom edge of the F pocket onto the A pieces with an 1/8 seam. See gure 1 on the left side. Set this piece aside. The crayon pocket is next. Take your piece of cotton cut from pattern piece G and iron it in half with wrong sides together. This gives you a nice crease down the middle to guide you. This folded piece is your guide to cut a piece of interfacing. Cut a corresponding piece of interfacing but this piece needs to be 1/4 shorter than the folded piece G. Open G back up and turn over to the wrong side. Using that center crease you just made as a guide, iron on the interfacing piece. See Figure 2 as your guide. Now fold G in half again but with RIGHT sides facing.
wrong side of G FIGURE 2 center crease interfacing piece 1/4 from bottom

Pin and sew closed to make a tube - use the line created by the fused on interfacing as a guide so you will have a 1/4 seam. Turn this tube right side out and iron at. Sew a seam 1/8 from

FIGURE 3

A G is sewn onto F rst, then both pockets are sewn onto A

2.25 G

2.25

the top edge (the original middle crease edge) to give it some denition. Figure 3 will guide you to sew on the crayon pocket. Take your remaining F pocket. The top of the pocket, with the double fold, should already be sewn down. You will place the G pocket on top of the F pocket about a 1/4 from the bottom of the F pocket. Pin in place and sew the bottom of the G

pocket on about an 1/8 from the edge- the blue line in Figure 3. Remove pins. Now measure over from the left edge 2.5 and sew a straight vertical line between the two already sewn horizontal lines- the green line in Figure 3. Use chalk if you need as a guide to make a nice straight stitch here. Move over 2.25 from center and sew another vertical line (purple in gure 3). Move 2.25 to the other side of center and sew another vertical line (pink!). Now take this pocket (G stitched onto F) and place it 3 from the bottom edge of your remaining A piece (A is already fused with interfacing and a layer of cotton batting underneath!). Sew the bottom edge of the F pocket onto the A pieces with an 1/8 seam- white line in Figure 3. Now using that middle line you already sewed on the G pocket as your guide, sew a vertical line 4.75 between the two horizontal lines sewn on F- yellow line in Figure 3. Crayon pocket complete! 3. Take the side sections, (B) turn them over and using your ruler and pencil, draw a line on the cotton batting a 1/2 from one side going vertically the length of the piece. Now draw one on the bottom 1/2 from bottom edge, the whole length horizontally and crossing over the vertical line you just drew. Now another on the other side, 1/2 from the side and the entire length vertically. Last one on the top, 1/2 from top and crossing over the 2 vertical lines. See gure 4. Figure 4 is a picture of the lining pieces with their lines drawn. You can see how the lines make boxes 1/2 boxes in each corner. These lines are important to guide you when you are sewing and the boxes tell you when to stop instead of going all the way to the edge. Draw the lines on the other cotton batting side piece B and also on the bottom piece C. There is no need to do the A panels.

FIGURE 4 B pieces of lining

you can see here the 1/2 boxes created by drawing your pencil lines.

C piece of lining

While you have out your pencil and ruler, go ahead and draw the lines on the lining pieces of B & C too. Set these aside until after you have nished the exterior work. With RIGHT sides facing, and all those layers together, pin together the bottom exterior A to bottom long side of C. Using the pencil line as your guide, sew between the boxes on either end. See Figure 5. Dont go all the way to the end! Remove the pins. Move over to the other long side and pin the other A onto C with right sides facing, and again sew between the boxes. Remove pins.

start & stop your stitching where your pencil lines meet

FIGURE 5

Now attach the two sides B to the attached A pieces and C doing the same thing as described above. Again, sew in between the boxes, using the lines as your guide. Since the lines are drawn on both B & C. it doesnt matter which side you sew on. Now your pieces should look like Figure 1 when you lay it all out. 5. Before you sew up the side pieces, you need to trim the seams you just created to a little less then 1/4 and press them out as best you can. Next trim off a 1/2 of the cotton batting on the top edges. Use that top line you drew before on the B pieces to guide you. Draw another line on the top edge of the A batting pieces 1/2 from the top edge. Trim this off too. This is to remove bulk from the top of the caddy when you sew it all together. 6. Pin the long sides of the A and B pieces together and using the vertical line drawn earlier as your guide, sew up the 4 sides- all the way to the top but only sew to the edge of the little box at the bottom corner. This should work nicely if you use the boxes as your guide! Trim away excess along the seams to a little less than 1/4 and press the seams out as best you can. Turn the bag out. Make sure you have caught all the pockets and there are no obvious bumps or mistakes showing. 7. Next you need to cut out the heavy duty double sided interfacing. Take your ruler and pen and cut out the following 5 pieces: two pieces that are 8.5 wide and 9.75 tall (corresponds with A pieces) two pieces that are 5 wide and 9.75 tall (corresponds with B pieces) one piece that is 5 x 8.5.(corresponds with C piece) Once you have cut these out, you will need to fuse the pieces to the bag you just created. Be patient with this and if you need to make size adjustments by cutting the interfacing pieces smaller so they t well onto the sides, dont be afraid to do so! Start with the bottom C piece. Place the piece in, rough side down and plastic lined side up. Hold it in place with your hand as you turn the bag over and place it on the ironing board. Remove your hand (!!) and iron the bottom of the bag to adhere the interfacing. I know the directions call for using a wet cloth and keeping it on wool setting, but since you are going through all those layers, keep your iron setting on the highest. This is not going to fuse perfectly but it should be pretty good. Next move to the side pieces. Make sure you t them in carefully, trimming the interfacing a little if needed. They should line up with the cotton batting pretty well. Use the rounded end of the ironing board. Dont spend

tons of time on this and get yourself all frustrated (I speak from experience). There are enough layers built into the box that a little imperfection is not going to make a difference. What is important is that there is enough fabric on the top edge to fold over and make a nice top seam. Remove the plastic after it has cooled. Pin that top edge of fabric over the heavyweight interfacing. Very lightly iron it down over the edge of the interfacing. See Figure 6. Dont iron the interfacing! It might not adhere perfectly but thats ne for now as long FIGURE 6 as its a guide for you top edge is later when you are ironed down & putting in the lining. pinned in place.
thick interfacing is 8. Now sew together the fused in pieces to all lining pieces just like you 4 sides and the did the exterior pieces. bottom Use those lines you drew as a guide. Start with the A pieces and C. Sew inbetween the boxes! Trim the seams and iron them out at. Then move on to attaching the B pieces to C. Finally sew up the sides all the way to the top. Trim the seams down to less than 1/4. Iron the seams out at. Do not turn out. Now iron the top edge over 1/2 all the way around the top edge. Insert pins to hold the edge down. See Figure 6. Set aside for a minute while you make the handles.

9. Making the handles from ribbon is so easy! Cut your 48 length of ribbon in half. Fold these lengths of 24 in half and pin the sides together evenly. Sew along the sides, about 1/8 from the edge, to secure the sides together. Now repeat with the other length of ribbon. Really you can do any type of handle that you want that is about 12 in length and 1 wide, but I like this because with all the steps you are taking in making this, you deserve a break! Pin the handles to the inside edge of the exterior piece, about 1.5 from the corner on the A piece, going upward like how they look when the caddy is nished. To create fabric handles, fold your 12 x 4 piece of fabric in half lengthwise- right sides facing out. Then open it up and fold the 2 long edges in to meet at that center crease. Fold it in half again and pin. Sew down the long side and up the other other long side. You can also add fusible interfacing to the center section to give the handles a more sturdy feel.

10. Insert the lining into the Exterior piece. Poke your ngers down into the corners. Start pinning all around the top edge. Use those same pins you inserted to hold down the top edge of the exterior piece. Line up the two folded over edges as well as you can. The handles should be sandwiched between them but coming out the top. The lining and exterior should t well together but if there is a problem, make adjustments to get the interior smaller or larger. Keeping the interior pinned, take your caddy over to the ironing board and iron the lining by inserting the iron into the caddy as well as you can. It will fuse to the stiff interfacing. I start on an A side and move around slowly. If you dont get every nook and cranny, dont worry. This is going to be lled up will papers and coloring books very soon! The coloring books will help the fabric settle into place. Make any adjustment to the top edge if you need to, and sew around the top edge with a 1/4 edge. Go slowly and sew through all the layers- It looks nice to have the lining fabric slightly below the exterior fabric. Stand back and admire your lovely art caddy! Fill it up with your kids art supplies and at least for a day the art mess will be cleaned up!

Some ideas for the Art Caddy...

Spray it with scotch guard all over before you give it the kids to help keep it clean. For a special gift, ll it with art supplies and give it away to your favorite kid. Play around with the pocket sizes and use it to organize your own craft supplies! Embellish with rick rack, buttons, appliqu, or whatever interests you! If you are a good fabric coordinator, make every piece different for a patchwork look. You do have permission to sell the art caddies you make from this pattern on a small handmade scale. Please send me an email at vlindsay18@consolidated.net to let me know you are planning to sell and I will list you as a Gingercake seller on my website. If you are going to sell online (such as on etsy or other websites), please give me credit for the pattern. The wording should be art tote pattern by Virginia Lindsay of Gingercake Patterns or if you sell on etsy, art tote pattern by etsy member ginia18. Please do not share this paern- instead, please direct your friends and family to my shop to purchase one for themselves! Thank you so much for respecting the time and eort it took to create this paern.

A
1 Cut 2 of coon fabric exterior Cut 2 of medium weight interfacing Cut 2 of coon baing Cut 2 of coon fabric interior (lining)

The size of this pattern piece A is 9.5 x 11 The Art Caddy is an original design by Virginia Lindsay of Gingercake

Cut here and attach with tape to A2

The Art Caddy is an original design by Virginia Lindsay of Gingercake

The actual size of the paern pieces are given on each page so you can check that your sizing is correct.

Cut here and attach with tape to A1

A
Please do not share this paerninstead, please direct your friends and family to my shop to purchase one for themselves! Thank you so much for respecting the time and eort it took to create this paern.

The size of this pattern piece B is 6 x 11 The Art Caddy is an original design by Virginia Lindsay of Gingercake

Cut 2 of coon fabric exterior Cut 2 of medium weight interfacing Cut 2 of coon baing Cut 2 of coon fabric interior (lining)

Cute here and attach with tape to B2

The size of this pattern piece C is 6 x 9.5 The Art Caddy is an original design by Virginia Lindsay of Gingercake

C
Cut 1 of coon fabric exterior Cut 1 of medium weight interfacing Cut 1 of coon baing Cut 1 of coon fabric interior (lining)

The size of this pattern piece D is 6 x 9 The Art Caddy is an original design by Virginia Lindsay of Gingercake

D
Cut 2 of coon fabric exterior Cut 2 of medium weight interfacing

The size of this pattern piece E is 6 x 6.25 The Art Caddy is an original design by Virginia Lindsay of Gingercake

E
Cut 2 of coon fabric exterior Cut 2 of medium weight interfacing

The size of this pattern piece F is 9.5 x 5.5 The Art Caddy is an original design by Virginia Lindsay of Gingercake

Cut 2 of medium weight interfacing

Cut 2 of coon fabric exterior

The size of this pattern piece G is 9.5 x 5.5 The Art Caddy is an original design by Virginia Lindsay of Gingercake

Cut medium weight interfacing according to crayon pocket directions in step 2

Cut 1 of coon fabric exterior