SOUTHERN COOKING ITALIAN ROOTS

ANDREW TICER + MICHAEL HUDMAN

southern cooking itali an roots

Andrew Ticer + Michael Hudman with Nicholas Talarico Photographs by Ed Anderson

olive press

foreword viii Starters 7 Salads & Soups 39 Pasta & Risotto 59 Mains 113 Sides 147 DesseRts 177 tasting menu 203
Pantry 229 Sources 239 Index 240

Signature C o cktails

Our beverage director Nick has

researched and developed classic and seasonal cocktails for the robust cocktail program at our restaurants. Here are a few of our favorites.

1 c on t r a b a n d o This is our play on a Pepino, southern style. Fill a cocktail shaker half full of ice. Add 3 tbsp Popcorn Sutton Tennessee White Whiskey, 1 tbsp St. Germain elderflower liqueur, 1 tbsp fresh lime juice, 1 1 2 tsp Simple Syrup (page 229), and a pinch of salt. Secure the lid and shake the ingredients together vigorously. Double-strain over ice into a rocks glass. Using a dropper, float enough hibiscus tincture to cover the top of the drink. Garnish with a fresh basil leaf. Note: To make the hibiscus tincture, steep equal parts dried hibiscus and highalcohol vodka in a dark corner of your cabinet, shaking it every day for 2 weeks. 2 i l g at o For this drink, we use Cathead Vodka from Jackson, Mississippi. They make a great product and help support the local music scene. Doublestrain 1 3 cup (3 fl oz/80 ml) white sangria into a 1-quart (1-l) soda siphon. Fill a cocktail shaker half full of ice and add 2 tbsp Cathead Honeysuckle Vodka, 4 tsp rhubarb sauce (page 239), 1 tbsp yellow Chartreuse, and 1 1 2 tsp fresh orange juice. Secure the lid and shake the ingredients together vigorously. Strain the mixture into a Collins glass over ice. Shoot the sangria from the soda siphon to fill the glass. Garnish with sliced strawberries and an orange slice. Note: To make the sangria, combine 1 bottle (750 ml) dry, fruity white wine, 1 2 orange, sliced, 1 2 red apple, diced, 1 2 bunch fresh thyme, and 2 fresh basil leaves. Cover and let steep overnight in the refrigerator.

3a | m m a r t i n i For this take on a dirty martini, we freeze the olive in the ice of its own brine. Fill a cocktail shaker half full with ice and add 1 4 cup (2 fl oz/60 ml) vodka, preferably Ston, and 1 1 2 tsp dry vermouth. Secure the lid and shake the ingredients together vigorously, chipping the ice. Strain the mixture into a martini glass and garnish with 1 olive ice cube. Makes 1 cocktail. Note: To make olive ice cubes, thread olives on toothpicks and place 1 olive in each cavity of an ice cube tray. Fill the cavities with olive brine. Freeze until the cubes are solid, preferably overnight. 4 t h at e v e n i n g su n This cocktail got its name from a short story by William Faulkner. The grapefruit garnish mimicks a sun. Put a thin slice of ruby grapefruit in an old-fashioned glass and hold it against the wall of the glass while you fill it with ice. Pour in 4 drops orange bitters, 3 tbsp white rum, preferably Bacardi, and 1 1 2 tsp Ginger Syrup (page 229). Stir well, without disturbing the grapefruit. 5 b a si l l i mon ata This refreshing take on limeade is perfect on a hot day. Fill a cocktail shaker half full of ice and add 1 4 cup (2 fl oz/60 ml) fresh lime juice, 3 tbsp vodka, 1 1 2 tsp Simple Syrup (page 229), a pinch of salt, and 3 fresh basil leaves. Secure the lid and shake the ingredients together vigorously. Fill a small mason jar with ice. Strain the drink into the mason jar and fill with club soda. Sprinkle a little more salt over the top. Garnish with a basil leaf.

6 ol d fa sh ion e d Of all the cocktails and drinks that Nick worked on with us, this is the one upon which he hangs his hat. Put 1 demerara sugar cube in a old-fashioned glass. Add 23 dashes bitters and a small splash of club soda. Muddle the sugar until it completely dissolves into a syrup. Add 1 4 cup (2 fl oz/60 ml) bourbon, preferably Makers Mark, and stir well. Add ice and garnish with an orange twist. 7 f r i day n igh t l igh t s This is our play on a gin fizz, properly executed. Put 1 impeccably fresh egg white in a cocktail shaker, secure the lid, and shake vigorously. Open the shaker and add ice to fill halfway, 3 tbsp gin, preferably Bombay Sapphire, 1 tbsp apple juice, 1 1 2 tsp fresh lemon juice, and 1 1 2 tsp Simple Syrup (page 229). Secure the lid and shake the ingredients together vigorously. Pour the mixture into a Collins glass, taking care not to overstrain, to preserve the froth. Garnish with an apple slice. 8 a b r igh t t i m e This wintry cocktail came about when Woodson Farm dropped off a case of their Meyer lemons from a sister farm. Fill a cocktail shaker half full of ice and add 2 tbsp blanco tequila, 1 tbsp Cocchi Americano, 1 1 2 tsp Bassano Amaro, 1 1 2 tsp fresh Meyer lemon juice, and 1 1 2 tsp Simple Syrup (page 229). Secure the lid and shake the ingredients together vigorously. Strain the mixture into a coupe glass. Garnish with candied Meyer lemon zest or a fresh Meyer lemon slice. 9 gi n & hom e m a de t on ic Our recipe for homemade tonic is the result of much research and practice. Fill an old-fashioned glass with ice cubes. Add 3 tbsp gin, 4 1 2 tsp Tonic Syrup (page 229), and 1 4 cup (2 fl oz/60 ml) club soda. Garnish with a lime slice.

starters

Fried Green Tomatoes, Blue Crab & Bacon Jam

w e h av e f i x e d gr e e n t om at oe s many different ways: pickled, grilled,

sauted, and our favorite, fried. We often serve the fried tomatoes with pickled watermelon rinds, but more recently we accompanied them with a bacon jam inspired by our good friend Tien Ho, chef at New Yorks Montmartre restaurant. We met Tien while eating at M Pche with our pig farmer, Mr. Newman. It was one of the best meals Id ever eaten in my life, and afterward, Tien sat down and walked me through every dish and the thought behind it. It was an extraordinary experience for me. We like to dredge our tomato slices twice to ensure a nice thick crust when they are fried. michael

To make the bacon jam, in a heavy 4-qt (4-l) saucepan, saut the bacon medium-high heat until the fat is rendered and the meat is browned, about 5 minutes. Using a m a kes 6 serv ings
For the bacon jam

slotted spoon, transfer the bacon to a plate, leaving the fat in the pan. Add the onion and saut in the bacon fat until nicely caramelized, 57 minutes, watching closely so the onion does not burn. Drain the fat from the pan. Return the bacon to the pan, add the vinegar, and stir to scrape up the browned bits on the bottom of the pan. Add the honey, lime juice, and pepper flakes, if desired, and cook until the mixture is thickened and heated through, about 1 minute. Taste and season with salt and pepper. Keep warm. Check the crab for shell fragments, taking care not to break up the chunks too much, and put the meat in a bowl. Add the chives, olive oil, and lemon juice and toss carefully just to coat. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Put the flour in a shallow dish and season lightly with salt and pepper. Cut the tomatoes into slices about 1 2 inch (12 mm) thick (you should have 12 slices) and season both sides with salt and pepper. Place the sliced tomatoes in a bowl and cover with the buttermilk. Remove the tomatoes from the buttermilk, season with salt and pepper, and dredge them in the seasoned flour, shaking off the excess. Repeat the process, coating the tomatoes again in buttermilk and the flour mixture and set them aside on a plate. Pour vegetable oil to a depth of 2 inches (5 cm) into a large, deep cast-iron frying pan and heat the oil to 350F (180C) on a deep-frying thermometer. Line a platter with paper towels. When the oil is hot, in batches if necessary, carefully slide the coated tomatoes into the oil and fry until golden brown, about 3 minutes per side. Drain the tomatoes on the paper towellined platter and season with salt and pepper. To serve, overlap 2 fried tomato slices on each serving plate. Top with a spoonful of the bacon jam and then with the crab mixture, dividing them evenly. Serve right away.

1 cup (2 oz/60 g) finely diced bacon 1 cup (5 oz/155 g) finely diced yellow onion
14

cup (2 fl oz/60 ml) balsamic vinegar 2 tablespoons honey Juice of 1 lime 2 tablespoons red pepper flakes (optional)

Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper 1 lb (500 g) jumbo lump blue crabmeat, the best stuff you can find
14

cup (13 oz/10 g) thinly sliced fresh chives 2 tablespoons olive oil Juice of 1 lemon

Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper 3 cups (15 oz/465 g) 00 flour 3 firm green tomatoes 2 cups (16 fl oz/500 ml) buttermilk (we use the good stuff from Cruze Dairy Farm in Knoxville, TN) Vegetable oil for frying

starters

27

Pickled Beet Crostini with tarragon & Gorgonzola

on e day i n m i d - fa l l , we had a party scheduled for the restaurant and

we needed to come up with a passed appetizer for the event. For some reason, nothing really excited us, and then the Woodson Ridge Farm delivery truck pulled into our driveway. Leslie had some incredible-looking beets that day that sparked an idea. We wrapped the beets in aluminum foil and laid them right on the embers of the pizza oven to roast. When they were tender, we cut them into pieces and poured some of our house pickling liquid over them. We wanted something nice and bright to go with them, so we combined some yogurt, ricotta, chopped fresh herbs, and citrus juice into a thick spread. michael

Preheat the oven to 400F (200C). m a k e s 8 se r v i n g s

For the pickled beets
34

Place the beets in a roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil. Roast until tender when tested with a knife tip, about 45 minutes. Set the beets aside until cool enough to handle, then remove the skins and quarter. Put the beet quarters in a mason jar or nonreactive bowl. In a saucepan, combine the vinegar, 1 2 cup (4 fl oz/125 ml) water, the sugar, coriander seeds, peppercorns, mustard seeds, onion, bay leaves, tarragon, and thyme and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer for 10 minutes. Taste the liquid for flavor balance, but be careful not to take a deep breath because it will make you cough. Strain the pickling liquid and allow to cool to room temperature. Pour the liquid over the beets, cover, and refrigerate overnight. To make the tarragon yogurt, blanch the tarragon and mint in a saucepan of boiling salted water to brighten their color, about 10 seconds. Plunge them into ice water to lock in the color. Drain the herbs and squeeze out any excess water. Roughly chop the herbs and put them in a blender with the lime juice, orange juice, and ice cubes. Blend on high speed until liquefied, about 3 minutes. Do not let the mixture get hot, or it will turn dark green. Pour the pure into a bowl and stir in the yogurt and ricotta. Season to taste with salt. To serve, remove the beets from the pickling liquid and cut them into smaller pieces, if you like. Arrange the crostini on a platter and spread each one with the tarragonyogurt mixture. Top with the beets and garnish with Gorzonzola. Serve right away.

lb (375 g) beets, any color (2 or 3 medium beets) 1 cup (8 fl oz/250 ml) champagne vinegar
34

cup (6 oz/185 g) sugar

2 tablespoons coriander seeds 1 tablespoon peppercorns 1 teaspoon yellow mustard seeds

14

yellow onion, minced 2 bay leaves

1 bunch each fresh tarragon and thyme

For the tarragon yogurt

Scant 1 cup (1 oz/30 g) fresh tarragon leaves

12

cup (12 oz/15 g) fresh mint leaves Juice of 1 lime and 1 orange 3 or 4 ice cubes

1 cup (8 oz/250 g) plain Greek yogurt

12

cup (4 oz/125 g) good-quality fresh ricotta cheese Kosher salt Crostini (page 236) Crumbled Gorgonzola cheese or trout roe for garnish

34

starters

Spinach-Ricotta Gnudi with marinara & ricotta salata

gn u di , l i t e r a l ly n a k e d (t h at i s , a f i l l i n g w i t h n o pa s ta ) ,
are ricotta-based dumplings. One of my favorite vegetarian dishes, this marriage of plump-but-light dumplings in a light tomato sauce has been on the AMIK menu since our opening. The lemon zest, tomato, and spinach play off one another really well. andy

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil, add the spinach, and blanch until the color brightens, about 15 seconds. Plunge the spinach into ice water to lock in the color. Drain the spinach, squeeze out any excess water, then finely chop in a food processor. In a large bowl, combine the chopped spinach, ricotta, egg yolks, ParmigianoReggiano, and lemon zest and mix well. Add the flour and mix with a fork just until the dough comes together (the key to great gnudi is to use as little flour as possible,

m a kes 4 serv ings

For the spinach-ricotta gnudi

just enough to hold the mixture together). The dough will be sticky. There are two options for forming gnudi: The easy way is to pinch off 1-inch (2.5-cm) pieces of the dough and form them into balls. If you want more consistently shaped gnudi, like we make at the restaurant, use a pastry bag fitted with a 1-inch (2.5-cm) plain tip. Using a spatula, transfer the dough to the pastry bag. Generously flour a work surface and pipe the dough onto the surface in long logs. Using a bench scraper, cut the dough into 1-inch (2.5-cm) pieces. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. When the water boils, drop in the gnudi. Watch to see when the gnudi float to the surface of the water, then cook for another 2 minutes. Meanwhile, in a large saut pan, warm the marinara until it simmers. When the gnudi are ready, using a slotted spoon, lift them out of the water and add them to the sauce. Lightly toss the gnudi in the sauce, taking care not to break the delicate dumplings. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Divide the gnudi and sauce among warmed wide, shallow bowls. Sprinkle with ricotta salata and drizzle with a few drops of olive oil. Using a Microplane grater, swipe the lemon twice across the grater over each bowl. Serve right away.

1 lb (500 g) stemmed spinach

34

cup (6 oz/185 g) good quality, fresh ricotta cheese 3 large egg yolks cup (3 oz/90 g) freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese Finely grated zest of 1 lemon 1 cup (5 oz/155 g) 00 flour, plus more for dusting

34

2 cups (16 fl oz/500 ml) Marinara Sauce (page 234), or more to taste Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper Grated ricotta salata for serving Extra-virgin olive oil for drizzling 1 lemon

pasta & risotto

65

on Family & f o od When we met, in elementary school, we soon discovered that we both came
from big Italian families. We also had in common that all of our family celebrations revolve around food. Good food comes from something deep, and for us, our families provided the roots for our inspiration.

mi c h a e l I think about Maw Maw every day. I wonder what

she would think about our restaurant, what she would think about how I manage people. I wonder if she would be proud of me. I wish she could eat one meal here. She was the matriarch of our family, and everyone had to go through her before making any major decisions. Because she lived in my parents house when I was growing up, I had constant access to Maw Maw. I never imagined that even round-the-clock contact would not be enough time, but it wasnt. I guess it never is with family. Maw Maw preached family. She would ask her grandkids if they kissed this person good-bye, or if they spoke to so and so. Maw Maw made every one of her ten grandchildren feel important, and if you ask any of them today if they were her favorite, they will all say yes. But I know I was, and I get to put it in print. We had a special bond. My life with Maw Maw revolved around the Memphis Tigers basketball team and food. Whenever someone asks me to name the moment when I realized that I wanted to be a chef, I answer that there was no single moment. A whole childhood of memories of Maw Maw, of cooking with her, was her gift to me. For example, in the summertime, she would gather all of her girlfriends around the kitchen table and they would make pasta for their families. She ran the pasta machine, so she was the boss: firm but loving, funny but serious. As they worked, they would gossip about whoever was not there that day. I would run up to the table and steal some of the filling for ravioli, which always made Maw Maw laugh. On Fridays, I would tag along with Maw Maw and Aunt Sarah on their visit to the beauty shop, where Maw Maw would spend hours getting her hair done. After that, wed go to the market, where I learned that half a shopping bag of greens is enough for only two people. Then it was home to cook supper.

Her food was about the family and the meal. Her saffron risotto with chicken gizzards is the flavor of my youth, and because she loved cooking with my brother, Richard, and me, she would invite us into the kitchen to make doughnuts out of biscuit dough. When Maw Maw published her cookbook, Maw Maws Recipes, my mom, my dad, Richard, and I stayed up late binding it for her. Wed do anything for her. When we would go on family vacations to Destin, Florida, all of her grandkids would stay in the room with her to play bourr, rather than go drink on the beach. She always let us win and would never say anything when we looked under the glass table at her cards. She was happy to be with us. We all came to her with every problem we had, no matter how serious. She always knew how to help. I remember when Maw Maw was sick. She had a heart attack and the family rushed her to the hospital. When I arrived, she asked to see me. She could not talk because of the all the tubes but she saw me. I lost it. I had never seen her, my rock, look weak. She was the one who could lift a car if she had to. I remember two or three days into the hospital stay, Andy and my cousin Peter took me to a basketball game to take my mind off of what was going on. The next day, I went home to go to bed. My mom woke me up by rubbing my back, and I knew the worst had happened. I buried my head in my pillow and cried. I loved Maw Maw, and now that she is gone, I cannot help but see how much of an influence she was on who I am today. In tribute, Ive given both of my children her name. I believe restaurants are like families. We fight, we laugh, we learn, we celebrate, we have one anothers back, and we grow together. Maw Maw is my symbol of family and my parents hammered the importance of a family home. At the restaurant, Maw Maws picture has watched over us from the very first day, always there to bring us back.

78

Lil Red Ed Pizza

s om e t i m e s a p ic t u r e w i l l i n sp i r e us . In A16 Food + Wine by

Nate Appleman and Shelly Lindgren, there is a great photograph of a perfectly blistered olive-and-marinara pizza being drizzled with chile oil. That pizza has always looked beautiful to us, so when we opened Hog & Hominy, we put a pizza on the menu that we imagined would taste like the one in the photo. But we never dreamed that we would work with Ed Anderson, the photographer who took that picture. As a tribute to him and to the amazing work he has done on this cookbook, we changed the name of this pizza from its original Lil Red Hot Pizza to the Lil Red Ed Pizza. To give it its bold flavor, we marinate our olives in citrus juice, we roast and pickle the peppers we get from Woodson Ridge Farms, and we make our own speck. andy

m a k e s 2 se r v i n g s
For the pickled peppers

1 lb (500 g) assorted sweet and hot peppers such as bell peppers, serrano chiles, Anaheim chiles, and Italian sweet peppers 2 cups (16 fl oz/500 ml) Pickling Brine, (page 238)
For the kalamata olive salad
12

To make the pickled peppers, roast the peppers directly over a gas flame or on a hot grill, turning them occasionally with tongs, until blackened all over. Put the peppers in a bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and let stand for a few minutes to steam and cool. When the peppers are cool enough to handle, scrape off the skin with a knife and remove the stem, seeds, and ribs. Cut the peppers into bite-size pieces and put them in a nonreactive bowl. Pour the pickling brine over the top, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for at least 6 hours or up to overnight before using. To make the kalamata olive salad, in a bowl, combine the olives, vinegar, oil, oregano leaves, lemon zest, and red pepper flakes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. To assemble the pizza, prepare a very hot fire for direct-heat cooking in a charcoal grill; youre aiming for at least 500F (260C).

cup (212 oz/75 g) pitted Kalamata olives

14

cup (2 fl oz/60 ml) sherry vinegar

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil Leaves from 1 sprig fresh oregano Finely grated zest of 12 lemon Pinch of red pepper flakes Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper Pizza Dough (page 238)
14

Put a pizza stone on the hottest part of the grill and let it heat for at least 10 minutes. Put the pizza dough on a lightly floured work surface. Flatten the dough and stretch it, using your hands and gravity, into a 10- to 12-inch (25- to 30-cm) round. Transfer the dough round to a pizza peel lightly dusted with flour. Swirl the tomato sauce evenly over the dough round. Arrange the speck over the sauce, followed by about 1 4 cup (1 1 2 oz/45 g) of the pickled peppers (reserve the remaining peppers for another use), then top with the fontina. Slide the pizza off the peel onto the pizza stone, close the grill cover, and cook until the toppings are bubbling and the crust is well browned, 610 minutes, using the pizza peel to rotate the pizza 3 times as it cooks. Using the pizza peel, remove the pizza from the grill and slide it onto a cutting board. Sprinkle with the olive salad and Parmigiano-Reggiano. Cut the pizza into wedges and serve right away.

cup (2 fl oz/60 ml) Tomato Sauce (page 233)

112 oz (45 g) speck or country ham (preferably Bentons), diced 2 oz (60 g) fontina cheese, torn into pieces Freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

114

mains

Braised Lamb Shanks

wor k i n g w i t h t h e d or p e r l a m b raised by Newman Farm is a pleasure.

The meat is lean and sweet, making it appealing even to people who say they find the taste of lamb too strong. We like to have at least one braised dish on our menu in the fall, and often two dishes in the winter, and these shanks are a good example. Plus, when its cold outdoors, one-pot cooking is what its all about. You can build deep flavors with these braises, if you follow a few rules: Be sure to brown the meat well, use an awesome stock for the braising liquid, and cook low and slow until the meat just falls off the bone. If you like, serve this dish with your favorite green vegetable, such as steamed or sauted broccoli. andy

m a k e s 4 se r v i n g s
4 lamb shanks, 810 oz (250315 g) each Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
12

Preheat the oven to 300F (150C). Season the lamb shanks all over with salt and pepper. Warm a large Dutch oven over high heat and add the olive oil. Add the lamb shanks and cook until golden brown on all sides, about 5 minutes per side. Transfer the shanks to a plate. Add the celery, onion, and carrot to the pot along with the tomato paste and saut until the vegetables are lightly browned, about 10 minutes. Stir in the wine and cook until it is nearly evaporated. Return the lamb shanks to the pan along with the garlic, thyme, parsley, rosemary, bay leaves, peppercorns, olives, and tomatoes with their juice. Add the stock; it should almost cover the meat. Cover the pot, transfer the pot to the oven, and braise until the lamb is fork tender, about 3 hours. After 1 1 2 hours, uncover the pot and rotate it 180 degrees to ensure even cooking. Remove the lamb shanks from the pot and set aside. Remove and discard the herbs, bay leaves, and garlic head. Carefully transfer half of the braising liquid to a blender and pure until smooth. Pour the pured mixture back into the pot, return the lamb shanks, and warm through. To serve, divide the polenta among warmed individual plates and top with the lamb shanks. Divide the braising liquid among the plates and serve right away.

cup (4 fl oz/125 ml) olive oil 3 stalks celery, chopped 1 yellow onion, chopped 1 carrot, chopped 2 tablespoons tomato paste

2 cups (16 fl oz/500 ml) dry red wine 1 head garlic, cut in half crosswise 1 bunch fresh thyme 1 bunch fresh flat-leaf parsley 2 sprigs fresh rosemary 2 dried bay leaves 1 tablespoon peppercorns 1 cup (5 oz/155 g) pitted Kalamata olives 1 can (1 lb/500 g) whole tomatoes 4 cups (32 fl oz/1 l) Lamb Stock (page 231) Polenta (page 172) for serving

142

mains

RosemaryParmesan Potatoes

i r e a l ly l ov e p o tat oe s . When cooked right, they can be as tasty as almost

any other ingredient in the kitchen. Our weekly delivery of Berkshire pigs from Newman Farm means that we always have plenty of lard on hand. To help us use up the surplus, we cook potatoes in the lard, let them cool, and then roast them in a cast-iron frying pan with rosemary and Parmigiano-Reggiano. The main objective during the second stage of cooking is to crisp up the cheese until it almost, but not quite, burns. michael

Preheat the oven to 250F (120C). m a k e s 4 se r v i n g s

1 lb (500 g) red potatoes Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper 2 sprigs fresh rosemary, plus 1 tablespoon finely chopped 1 sprig fresh thyme Melted lard to cover 3 tablespoons olive oil 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
14

Cut the potatoes into wedges 1 4 -inch (6-mm) wide. Arrange the wedges in a large baking dish and season lightly with salt and pepper. Add the rosemary and thyme sprigs to the dish. Pour in enough lard to cover the potatoes. Bake until the potatoes are slightly tender, 11 1 2 hours. A knife inserted into a wedge should meet light resistance. Using a slotted spoon, remove the potatoes from the lard and set aside. Discard the herb sprigs. Warm a frying pan over medium-high heat and add the olive oil and butter. When the butter begins to foam, add the potatoes and cook, turning once, until nicely browned, about 2 minutes per side. Remove the pan from the heat, sprinkle the potatoes with the chopped rosemary and the Parmigiano-Reggiano, and toss to combine. Return the frying pan to medium-high heat and cook until the cheese starts to brown and become crisp. Serve right away.

cup (1 oz/30 g) freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

168

sides

Brussels Sprouts with speck, tomato & bacon-chile jam

ou r c l o se f r i e n d k e l ly e n gl i sh , chef and owner of Restaurant Iris

here in Memphis, has originated an amazing preparation for brussels sprouts. He cooks them with sherry vinegar and bacon, and it is one of our favorite ways to enjoy the vegetable. Inspired by Kellys spirit of innovation, we came up with a different take on brussels sprouts but one that is just as tasty. It features our house-made tomato conserva and bacon-chile jam. andy

In a frying pan, saut the bacon over medium heat until the fat is rendered, 24 minutes. Remove the bacon from the pan. Spoon off and reserve most of the bacon fat, leaving just a film in the pan. Raise the heat to medium-high. Add the onion and saut until translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the sugar and saut until the onion is well browned, 45 minutes. If the mixture seems dry, m a kes 4 serv ings
For the bacon-chile jam

add more bacon fat as needed. Return the bacon to the pan along with both Calabrian peppers and stir well. Add the vinegar and lime juice and saut just until warmed through and the mixture is smooth. Stir in the mint, if using, and set aside. Pour the vegetable oil into a deep fryer to the fill line, or pour the oil to a depth of 3 inches (7.5 cm) into a tall-sided saucepan. Heat the oil to 350F (180C) on a deep-frying thermometer. While the oil is heating, separate the leaves from the brussels sprouts and set aside. Cut the brussels sprout cores into quarters. In batches if necessary, fry the brussels sprout leaves until well browned and crisp, about 30 seconds. Transfer to a paper towel to drain. Fry the brussel sprout cores in the same manner until nicely dark brown, about 1 minute. Remove the mint, if using, from the bacon-chile jam. In a bowl, combine the brussels

4 slices bacon, preferably Bentons, finely diced

12

yellow onion, diced 1 tablespoon sugar

2 teaspoons ground sweet Calabrian pepper teaspoon ground hot Calabrian pepper
12

2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar Juice of 1 lime

12

bunch fresh mint (optional)

Vegetable oil for deep-frying 1 lb (500 g) brussels sprouts, ends trimmed cup (4 fl oz/125 ml) Tomato Conserva (page 235)
12

sprout leaves and cores, 1 2 cup (4 fl oz/125 ml) of the bacon-chile jam (reserve the rest for another use), the tomato conserva, speck, and a pinch of salt and toss until mixed. Transfer to a serving bowl and serve right away.

4 oz (125 g) speck or prosciutto, diced Kosher salt

sides

175

Apple-Pear pie

w e l ov e a t r a di t ion a l a p p l e p i e . Every year in late summer and

fall, we eat so much apple pie that we had might as well consider it our daily fruit intake. For our version of this iconic fruit dessert, we switch up the American tradition a bit: We use half apples and half pears. michael

To make the crust, in a food processor, combine the flour, confectioners sugar, and m a k e s 8 se r v i n g s
For the crust

salt and pulse a couple of times to mix. Add the butter and pulse a few more times until the butter pieces are the size of small peas. Pour the mixture into a bowl. Add 6 tablespoons ice water and mix with a fork just until the dough comes together in a rough ball. Add more water if the dough seems dry. Transfer the dough to a floured work surface and shape it into a disk. Wrap well in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 2 hours or up to overnight. To make the filling, in a bowl, combine both types of apples, the pears, brown sugar, flour, orange juice, lemon juice, cinnamon, nutmeg, and salt. Mix well and let stand for about 10 minutes to release the juices from the fruit. Preheat the oven to 400F (200C).

3 cups (15 oz/465 g) all-purpose flour

14

cup (1 oz/30 g) confectioners sugar 1 teaspoon kosher salt 1 cup (8 oz/250 g) unsalted butter, cut into pieces

68 tablespoons (34 fl oz/90125 ml) ice water

For the filling

2 Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored, and thinly sliced 2 Honeycrisp apples, peeled, cored, and thinly sliced 2 Bartlett pears, peeled, cored, and thinly sliced 1 cup (7 oz/220 g) firmly packed light brown sugar
14

Divide the dough into 2 portions and shape one into a disk and one into a rough square. Put the dough disk on a lightly floured work surface and roll out into a round about 1 4 inch (6 mm) thick. Carefully ease the dough round into a 8-inch (20-cm) pie pan, letting the excess dough hang over the edges. Using a fork, prick the dough in several places to help it bake evenly. Put the dough rectangle on a lightly floured work surface and roll out into a rough 10-inch (25-cm) square. Using a pizza wheel or paring knife, cut 68 strips from the dough, each about 1 inch (2.5 cm) wide. Pour the filling into the pie crust and dot it with the butter. Starting 1 inch (2.5 cm) from the edge of the pie pan, lay 3 or 4 strips about 1 inch apart over the filling. Fold back every other dough strip halfway over itself. Place a strip at a sharp angle across the unfolded strips, then return the folded strips to their flat position. Fold back the remaining 2 or 3 strips, place a dough strip about 1 inch away from the first one, and refurn the folded strips to their flat position. Repeat to complete the lattice. Trim and flute the edges even with the pan rim. Brush the lattice strips with egg wash and sprinkle the strips with granulated sugar. Bake the pie until the edges of the crust begin to brown, about 15 minutes. Reduce the heat to 350F (180C) and continue to bake until the crust is lightly browned, the fruit filling is bubbling, and the apples are tender when tested with the tip of a paring knife, 4045 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack and let cool completely. Cut into wedges to serve.

cup (112 oz/45 g) all-purpose flour Juice of 1 orange Juice of 1 lemon

14

teaspoon ground cinnamon 5 grates fresh nutmeg Pinch of kosher salt

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into small pieces 1 egg whisked with 1 egg yolk to use as an egg wash Granulated sugar for sprinkling

198

desserts

A|M Breakfast: 63-degree egg, pork belly, pork rinds, pol enta

f o od c a n b e m e mor a b l e . Each bite of this dish brings back memories

from our childhoods. Both of us always looked forward to breakfast for dinner when we were kids. When we got older and tried to sneak in late at night after an evening of carousing, our moms would be waiting and theyd cook us breakfast. When we were putting together our Breakfast-for-Dinner tasting menu, we created this dish. From the first time we ate it, there was an instant connection to some of our happiest boyhood memories. andy & michael

To prepare the pork, preheat the oven to 500F (260C). Place a rack in a roasting pan. Remove the pork skin and set aside. Season the pork belly with a light coating of the rub mixture and put it on the rack in the roasting pan. Roast the pork belly until it is well browned, 4560 minutes. Reduce the oven heat to 225F (110C) and continue m a k e s 6 se r v i n g s
1 lb (500 g) pork belly with skin About 14 cup (2 oz/60 g) Pork Belly Rub (page 229) 6 large eggs Polenta (page 172) Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper Vegetable oil for deep-frying

to cook until the pork is fork tender, 11 1 2 hours. Remove from the oven and let cool to room temperature. Wrap the belly with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight. To make the fried pork rinds, put the reserved pork skin in a heavy saucepan and add water to cover. Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer until the skin is tender when pierced with a knife, 1 1 2 2 hours; you dont want it to become too soft. Drain the pork skin, discarding the liquid, and let stand until cool enough to handle. While the pork skin is still warm, use a sturdy metal spoon to scrape off and discard all of the fat on the underside, so that you are left with only skin. Cut the pork skin into 1-inch (2.5-cm) squares. Lay the pork skin on a food dehydrator tray or baking sheet. Place the tray in a food dehydrator set at the highest setting (around 180F/82C) or in an oven set at the lowest setting (around 175F/80C), until they are extremely dry and crisp, about 24 hours. To prepare the eggs, preheat a thermal immersion circulator in a circulating water bath to 145F (63C). Carefully place the whole eggs in the water bath and cook for 1 hour. (If you do not have a circulator, you can poach the eggs in water just before serving.) About 25 minutes before you plan to serve the dish, make the polenta as directed. Pour vegetable oil into a deep fryer to the fill line, or pour the oil to a depth of 2 inches (5 cm) into a tall-sided saucepan. Heat the oil to 375F (190C) on a deep-frying thermometer. Drop the dried pork skin squares into the hot oil and fry until puffed and crisp, about 2 minutes. Transfer to paper towels to drain briefly, then season with salt and the rub mixture. To serve, cut the pork belly crosswise into 4 pieces. Warm a nonstick frying pan over medium-high heat. When the pan is hot, add the pork belly pieces and sear until warmed through, about 2 minutes per side. Divide the polenta among warmed plates. Carefully crack an egg onto the mound of polenta on each plate and sprinkle with pepper. Arrange the pork belly and the pork rinds on the plate and serve right away.

212

Tasting menu