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Testing the Throttle Position Sensor

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BMW Model Specific

3 series

(E21, E30, E36, E46, E9x, F30)

1991 - 1999

(E36)

Testing the Throttle Position Sensor

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Thread: Testing the Throttle Position Sensor


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04-13-2012,

04:06 PM

#1
Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Madison, WI Posts: 433 My Cars: '96 328ic, '07 328xit

morzada
Member

Testing the Throttle Position Sensor


I've been trying to track down an intermittent problem that causes a hesitation and infrequently causes the engine to stall. Also, on initially pressing the accelerator from idle the revs dip then rise - the car doesn't go so low as to stall, but there is a noticeable delay in 'revving'. When the car has stalled in the past it has been during cruising or when coming to a stop. All my diagnosing to date has come up empty. I've tried various routine-maintenance type things including much of what is posted on the 'official bogging, hesitating, etc. thread'. The current focus of my attention is the TPS. In doing some internet research it seems that this device could be causing my problems. However, when I go through the testing procedure, I get a bit confused. Across terminals 1 and 3 I get 5 kohm - supposed to get approx. 4 Kohms. Across terminals 1 and 2 I get between 1.5 and 5 Kohms. So this seems correct - although with the 1/2 test, no matter how slow I turn the throttle the multimeter occassionally 'OF'd' and or zeroed out. Could this be a symptom of a faulty TPS, or just an idiosyncracy of my meter? What is more is that with the ignition on I get basically zero volts across terminal 3 and its ground (which I assume is the female counterpart in the harness). I went on to test the car's running with the TPS unplugged. I couldn't really say I noticed a

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10.04.2013 19:05

Testing the Throttle Position Sensor

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1820893-Testi...

difference - although initially my ASC light was on (that TPS was still plugged in) - and no check engine light. I shut off the car, unplugged them both - no change. Plugged them both back it, ASC went off. Unplugged just the regular TPS and then got the check engine light. I checked the codes, got a fault for the TPS and a fault for the Crank Sensor. I've had the crank sensor fault before, but have replaced the CPS twice in the past. Is this telling me anything, or am I destined to stay frustrated? Just for the record, here is my recent maintenance list: Replaced Plugs/Boots Replaced Coils (replaced in stages with some from a swap meet) Replaced Crank Angle Sensor (and harness) Replaced Cam Angle Sensor Replaced Fuel Filter Replaced Both Front O2 Sensors Replaced Water Pump, T-stat, bunch of hoses Cleaned ICV Cleaned MAF Went over entire vacuum system - found the hose to the fuel pressure regulator was disconnected. Replaced Fuel Pump Relay Replaced DME Relay Checked all the Chassis Grounds (all good) Checked Trunk Lid Wiring (all good) Serviced Injectors (caps, filters, o-rings) Replaced Valve Cover Gasket Replaced Oil-Filter Housing Gasket Replaced Fuel Pump
Last edited by morzada; 04-13-2012 at 04:33 PM.

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04-13-2012,

05:41 PM
Join Date: Location: Posts: My Cars:

#2
Oct 2006 Greenville, NC 1,674 1997 328i convertible

RNeil
Member

no matter how slow I turn the throttle the multimeter occassionally 'OF'd' and or zeroed out. Could this be a symptom of a faulty TPS, or just an idiosyncracy of my meter?
The TPS is a potentiometer. It has a conductive strip whose ends are connected to terminals 1 and 3. Terminal 2 is connected to a wiper that slides on the conductive strip as you open the throttle. When it wears out, the wiper will not make consistent contact and you will get the action that you described.

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04-18-2012,

06:53 PM
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#3
Aug 2011 Bay Area, CA 85 1997 M3 Coupe

anotherhaus
Member

Also your TPS is out of spec. I replaced mine this morning since I was getting 1.5k ohms to 6k ohms. Spec is 1k ohms to 4k ohms, which is exactly what my new one produces.

What is more is that with the ignition on I get basically zero volts across terminal 3 and its ground (which I assume is the female counterpart in the harness).
Not exactly sure what you mean by that. Are you plugging one test lead to the TPS and the

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10.04.2013 19:05

Testing the Throttle Position Sensor

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1820893-Testi...

other to the harness? It doesn't work that way. Voltage only comes through the harness (then into and back out of the TPS). Both of your meter's test leads go into the harness; the hole that mates to pin 3 on the TPS is the + lead, and the hole that mates to pin 1 is the - lead. I read 5.01 volts across those two. Fortunately a new TPS is inexpensive and only takes a minute to bench test and install.

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04-28-2012,

08:35 PM

#4
Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Madison, WI Posts: 433 My Cars: '96 328ic, '07 328xit

morzada
Member

Anotherhaus - didn't see your reply until about 20 minutes ago when it was pointed out to me in a different thread. With your explanation I was able to verify that I have 5V out of the harness (seems that the manual could have been a little clearer about that test - I don't speak good electrician). Off the car my resistance read up to 6Kohms, too. I also just happened to have a new TPS on my shelf which I just installed (was/am sidetracked by what now appears to also be a fuel pressure issue). Fingers crossed. Test drive tomorrow!
Last edited by morzada; 04-28-2012 at 08:49 PM.

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04-28-2012,

08:57 PM
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#5
Dec 2008 Woodstock, MD 249 1993 325i

hpmaxim
Member

I'm curious about the results. I started another thread on something similar. A while back I was getting TPS codes. The TPS checked out okay, but I replaced it, and the TPS code went away, so I assume there was an intermittent bad contact. However, if I hit the throttle hard from idle the revs dip before doing anything. There was also a loud whooshing noise coming from the throttlebody. I assumed the two are related, but now I'm wondering if the loud whooshing noise is normal, and a marginal TPS (particularly near idle) is is simply causing my car not to give it fuel fast enough if you hit the gas hard.

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04-29-2012,

12:07 AM
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#6
Sep 2010 Chicago, IL. 994 1996 328is

DJCarbine
Member

You can also check voltage between terminal 2 and ground ~.45 volts throttle closed, ~4.5 volts throttle open Finding someone with a live data scanner is best, as you can make sure the DME is actually getting thos signals

1996 328is Sport package S52 cams/M50 manifold Conforti CF Intake Conforti Tune 3.91 LSD

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10.04.2013 19:05

Testing the Throttle Position Sensor

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1820893-Testi...

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10.04.2013 19:05

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