A Study Done On Textile Dyes & Auxilliaries As Assignment -1

Submitted to: Mr. Manish Bharagava

Submitted By: AbhishekRaj(2) IshitaSingh(10) KunalKashyap(11) RichaJain(16) ShrishtiGupta(22) DFT-III

National Institute Of Fashion Technology, Gandhinagar

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Acknowledgement Dictionary has failed me when we begin to thank our teacher Mr. Manish Bhargava for his unflinching support and constant guidance which were a big step forward to the completion of this assignment.His sincerity and perseverance has been a constant source of inspiration. We also thank him for his effective tips. We are really thankful to our team members for their full cooperation and support. This study is a fruitful outcome of a good teamwork. We also like to thank the almighty God without whose grace nothing is possible and is everneeded. It was a nice learning experience for all of us. Any suggestions would be willingly accepted and incorporated.

-Abhishek Raj Ishita Singh KunalKashyap Richa Jain Shrishti Gupta

Dyeing
Dyeing is the process of adding color to textile products like fibers, yarns, and fabrics. Dyeing is normally done in a special solution containing dyesand particular chemical material. After dyeing, dye molecules haveuncut Chemical bond with fiber molecules. The temperature and time controlling are two key factors in dyeing. There are mainly two classes of dye, natural and manmade. Acrylic fibers are dyed with basic dyes, Nylon and protein fibers such as wool and silk are dyed with acid dyes, polyester yarn is dyed with disperse dyes. Cotton is dyed with a range of dye types, including vat dyes, and modern synthetic reactive and direct dyes.

Direct dyeing
Direct dyes, a class of dyes largely for dyeing cotton, are water soluble and can be applied directly to the fiber from an aqueous solution. Most other classes of synthetic dye, other than vat and surface dyes, are also applied in this way.This dyeing is normally carried out in a neutral or slightly alkaline dye bath, at or near boiling point, with the addition of either sodium chloride (NaCl) or sodium sulphate (Na2SO4). Direct dyes are used on cotton, paper, leather, wool, silk and nylon. They are also used as pH indicators and as biological stains

Yarn dyeing
There are many forms of yarn dyeing. Common forms are the at package form and the at hanks form. Cotton yarns are mostly dyed at package form, and acrylic or wool yarn are dyed at hank form. In the continuous filament industry, polyester or polyamide yarns are always dyed at package form, while viscose rayon yarns are partly dyed at hank form because of technology.

Dyes
A dye is a colored substance that has an affinity to the substrate to which it is being applied. The dye is generally applied in an aqueous solution, and may require a mordant to improve the fastness of the dye on the fiber.

Types of dyes: Natural dyes The majority of natural dyes are from plant sources like roots, berries, bark, leaves, and wood, fungi, and lichens. Plant-based dyes such as indigo, saffron, and madder were raised commercially and were important trade goods in the economies of Asia and Europe. Across Asia and Africa, patterned fabrics were produced using resist dyeing techniques to control the absorption of color in piece-dyed cloth. Synthetic dyes They are human-made (synthetic) organic dye like mauveine.Synthetic dyes have quickly replaced the traditional natural dyes. They cost less, they offered a vast range of new colors, and they impart better properties to the dyed materials.

Dyes are also classified according to how they are used in the dyeing process: Acid dyes: are water-soluble anionic dyes that are applied to fibers such as silk, wool, nylon and modified acrylic fibers using neutral to acid dye baths. Attachment to the fiber is attributed, at least partly, to salt formation between anionic groups in the dyes and cationic groups in the fiber. Acid dyes are not substantive to cellulosic fibers. Most synthetic food colors fall in this category.

Basic dyes :are water-soluble cationic dyes that are mainly applied to acrylic fibers, but find some use for wool and silk. Usually acetic acid is added to the dye bath to help the uptake of the dye onto the fiber. Basic dyes are also used in the coloration of paper.
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Mordant dyes: require a mordant, which improves the fastness of the dye against water, light and perspiration. The choice of mordant is very important as different mordants can change the final color significantly. Most natural dyes are mordant dyes. The most important mordant dyes are the synthetic mordant dyes, or chrome dyes, used for wool; these comprise some 30% of dyes used for wool, and are especially useful for black and navy shades. The mordant, potassium dichromate, is applied as an after-treatment. Vat dyes: are essentially insoluble in water and incapable of dyeing fibres directly. However, reduction in alkaline liquor produces the water soluble alkalimetal salt of the dye, which, in this leuco form, has an affinity for the textile fibre. Subsequent oxidation reforms the original insoluble dye. The color of denim is due to indigo, the original vat dye.

Reactive dyes: utilize a chromophore attached to a substituent that is capable of directly reacting with the fibre substrate. The covalent bonds that attach reactive dye to natural fibers make them among the most permanent of dyes. "Cold" reactive dyes, such as Procion MX, Cibacron F, and Drimarene K, are very easy to use because the dye can be applied at room temperature. Reactive dyes are by far the best choice for dyeing cotton and other cellulose fibres. Disperse dyes: were originally developed for the dyeing of cellulose acetate, and are water insoluble. The dyes are finely ground in the presence of a dispersing agent and sold as a paste, or spray-dried and sold as a powder. Their main use is to dye polyester but they can also be used to dye nylon, cellulose triacetate, and acrylic fibres. Sulfur dyes: are two part "developed" dyes used to dye cotton with dark colors. The initial bath imparts a yellow or pale chartreuse color, This is after treated with a sulfur compound in place to produce the dark black we are familiar with in socks for instance. Sulfur Black 1 is the largest selling dye by volume.

Textile Dyes used for cellulosic Fibres

Cellulose fibers include cotton, linen, rayon, hemp, ramie, lyocell (Tencel), bamboo, and pineapple plant fiber. Fiber Reactive Dyes The best dyes, by far, to use for cotton and other cellulose fibers are the fiber reactive dyes. They are much brighter, longer-lasting, and easier-to-use than allpurpose dyes. How to Use Fiber Reactive Dye Cool water fiber reactive dyes can be used normally. It can also be used according to the Low Water Immersion, or even in a washing machine.They work especially well on cotton, and on any other cellulose fiber.

Types of Fiber Reactive Dye ProcionMX : Many people feel quite strongly that the best dye choice for the beginner, as well as for many experienced dyers, is Procion MX, because this dye is very easy to work with. You never need to steam or otherwise heat-set the fabric, when you are using Procion MX type fiber reactive dyes, and the dyes are relatively non-toxic. Other advantages include the remarkable washfastness found in all fiber-reactive dyes. Optimum reaction temperatures for Procion MX dyes are between 95 and 105F = 35 to 41C (except for turquoise, which prefers up to 130F = 55C). Do not use at temperatures below 70F.If the temperature is lower than that, pop each piece into a separate plastic bag or bucket and take them to a warmer place overnight to react. Cibacron F: Another very good fiber reactive dye for artists and crafters to use is the Cibacron F line. Like Procion MX dyes, Cibacron F dyes can be used in warm water, instead of extremely hot water like some dyes. Its advantages over
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ProcionMX dyes are that it 'keeps' better in solution, so one can store and possibly even buy it already in solution (liquid form), avoiding the safety hazard of breathing dye powder; it is also easier to wash the excess unattached dye out of the fabric when using Cibacron F dyes than when using Procion MX. However, the Cibacron F line has one major drawback when compared to the Procion MX line: there is not as wide a choice of colors, whether one buys primaries to mix your own, or buys pre-made mixes from the dye supplier. Optimum temperatures for Cibacron F dyes are slightly higher than for Procion MX dyes. Ciba said 55 to 65C (130 to 150F). Drimarene K: This is the more of a "warm water" dye than a "cool water" dye. It requires higher temperatures still than Cibacron F, but does not require steaming. They are very similar in action to MX type dyes, except for requiring a minimum temperature of 35C (or 95F). The greatest drawback, besides the need to find a warm place for the dye reaction to occur, is the lack of a truly rich red. This is, however, another excellent line of dye for home.Drimarene K has optimum temperatures around 60C (140F) for most colors, 80C (176F) for turquoise and a couple of others. Remazol or vinyl sulfone dyes: are usually used for silk painting and fixed by steaming, but, like Procion H dyes, may be fixed to cotton using a high-pH solution such as sodium silicate at room temperature, or by moderate heating. They work well between 104F and 140F (40C-60C). To use it for cotton, use it with TSP instead of soda ash, in low water immersion dyeing, with just a little heating, by floating the buckets in a sinkful of hot water, or by using a microwave oven to heat the dyebath. Vinyl sulfone dyes are particularly useful for chemical resist dyeing (PDF), in which two different types of fiber reactive dyes are used to print foreground and background in different colors. Remazol dyes are more suitable for dyeing for later discharge (bleaching) than are other fiber reactive dyes. Levafix: Their temperature optimum is around 50C (122F). This is lower than the optimum temperature of 60 to 80 C. for the Drimarene K dyes, which can be used in "cold" dyeing, but higher than the optimum temperature of about 35 to 40C (95 to 105F) for Procion MX. As with all of these dyes, it is not necessary to get quite as high as the optimal temperature in order to have acceptable results.
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Procion H and H-E dyes: are hot water dyes. They are usually used for silk painting; they require steaming or simmering to fix to cotton or silk. Procion H dyes are chemically similar to Procion MX dyes, being monochlorotriazines, but they are far less reactive, and will not work at all well at room temperature. They can be purchased in the form of powdered dye or dissolved in water; the latter removes the dangers associated with breathing dye powder. Immersion dyeing works best at 175F (80C).

Direct Dyes
Direct dyes are a class of hot water dyes for use on cellulose fibers, such as cotton. It is one of the two types of dyes that are mixed in 'all purpose dyes' such as Rit, Tintex Hot Water dye, and Dylon Multi-purpose Dye. (The other type in the mixture is an acid dye, which will not stay in any cellulose fiber for long.) In most cases, better results will be obtained, often with versatile and easier-to-use cool water methods,if one uses fiber reactive dye instead of direct dye. However, there are some cases in which direct dye is preferred. They areduller in color and poorly washfast.The colors of most direct dyes tend to be duller than those provided by fiber reactive dyes, especially after fading in the laundry. The washfastness of direct dyes is poor: expect anything dyed with them to 'bleed' forever. They lack the permanence of the cold water fiber reactive dyes which most hand-dyers prefer for use on cellulose fibers. As a result, clothing dyed with direct dyes should be laundered in cool water only, with closely similar colors. The washfastness problem can be reduced by following dyeing with the use of a cationic after-treatment such as Retayne. They are inexpensive.The main reason why direct dyes are used is because of cost. Direct dyes are sold alone and purchased in bulk and are among the cheapest of all dyes. They need a single dye bath.Direct dyes are applied in hot water, typically between 175F and 200F. They can be applied in the same boiling-water dyebath with acid
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dyes (whether for same-color effects, as in all-purpose dyes, or contrasting effects, as in the case of AlterEgo brand dyes). Direct dyes are not generally more lightfast than fiber reactive dyes.Many direct dyes are less resistant to light than similarly-hued fiber reactive dyes, and both tend to be less lightfast than vat dyes. There are just a few cases in which a particular direct dye may be more lightfast than similar shades of fiber reactive dye. Direct dyes are only loosely associated with the fiber molecule through the property called substantivity, which is the tendency of the dye to associate with the dye without strong bonds. This substantivity is increased by increasing the size of the dye molecule, so direct dyes tend to be large. Small dye molecules tend to be bright, while large dye molecules tend to be duller (as there are more parts that can absorb additional wavelengths of light), so direct dyes are generally much less bright in color than fiber reactive dyes. Substantivity is said to result from a combination of the relatively weak Van der Waals forces and some hydrogen bonding.

Suppliers
Dharma's Industrial dyes are eight different colors of direct dyes"not as washfast or as bright as our other dyes, but easy & cheap". They are very inexpensive to use, costing as little as 6 cents per pound of fabric to be dyed. A pound of Dharma's Industrial Dye costs only $6. PRO Chemical & Dye until recently sold an inexpensive line of nine different direct dye colors under the name "Diazol Direct Dyes". Dyeing one pound of fabric to a medium shade requires only 2.25 grams of dye, less than is required for most dye types. This means that a pound of dye would be sufficient to dye more than 200 pounds of cotton fabric. The different colors have different costs, with prices being set lower for the less expensive dyes, rather than all being set to the same price as the most expensive color, as in many brands. Aljo Mfg. sells the same direct dyes that ProChem used to, by Color Index Number, as well as blended colors. They may supply their dyes in a different strength, but you can ask for 100% of standard strength.
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Jacquard Products has introduced a line of direct dyes called iDye, to go with their line of low-energy disperse dyes called iDye Poly. The two kinds of dyes may be mixed in order to dye cotton/polyester blends in a single dyebath. iDye is much more expensive per use than Industrial Dyes or Diazol Direct Dyes, as it is packaged in individual-use packets like Rit or Tintex all-purpose dye. Cushing sells a line containing many different pre-mixed colors of direct dyes; no information is available on which direct dyes are included. There are two groups of primary colors: the lighter set is Scarlet, Light Blue or Copenhagen Blue, and Yellow, while the darker would be Blue, Cardinal and Canary. They are designed to be used directly, however, not for color mixing; thus, there are forty different colors available. Half an ounce of Cushing Direct Dye is sufficient to dye two pounds of cellulose fiber, such as cotton, and costs $3.65. Rit brand's Proline Bulk Dye consists of only direct dye, with no acid dye included, but apparently with a considerable amount of salt included, so a given weight of dye will not go nearly as far as with ProChem'sDiazol Direct dyes or Dharma's Industrial dyes.

Vat Dyes
Vat dyes are an ancient class of dye, based on the original natural dye, Indigo, which is now produced synthetically, and its close chemical relative, historic TyrianPurple. Both cotton and wool, as well as other fibers, can be dyed with vat dyes. "Vat dyeing" means dyeing in a bucket or vat. It can be done whenever a solid even shade, the same color over the entire garment, is wanted, using almost any dye, including fiber reactive dye, direct dye, acid dye, etc. The opposite of vat dyeing is direct dye application, such as, for example, tie dyeing. Vat Dyes Most vat dyes are less suitable for the home dyer, as they are difficult to work with; they require a reducing agent to solubilize them. The dye is soluble only in its reduced (oxygen-free) form. The fiber is immersed repeatedly in this oxygenfree dyebath, then exposed to the air, whereupon the water-soluble reduced form changes color as oxygen turns it to the water-insoluble form. Indigo is an example

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of this dye class; it changes from yellow, in the dye bath, to green and then blue as the air hits it. Light fastness of Vat dyes Vat dyes are, as a class, the most light-fast of all dyes. However, not all individual vat dyes are equally resistant to light. The following are lightfastness ratings for the unmixed vat dyes : ColorName VD01 Yellow VD02 Orange VD03 Red VD04 Blue VD08 Violet Colour Index name vat yellow 2 vat orange 2 vat red 13 vat blue 6 vat violet 1 Lightfastnessrating (out of 8) 5 5 7 7-8 6

Instructions for dyeing with vat dyes Vat dyes must be solubilized before use. They are not soluble in their oxidized form. The process requires the use of lye (sodium hydroxide), which must be used with due care, including the use of goggles. Indigo is subject to major crocking (rubbing off of the dye onto other items) unless it is applied carefully. This means use a weaker dyebath, and dipping many times, rather than a single strong dipping. To solubilize vat dyes, use a mixture of sodium hydroxide (caustic soda, or lye) and the reducing agent sodium dithionite (also known as sodium hydrosulfite, and found in Rit Color Remover. Light-oxidized Vat Dyes Inko-dye is a brand of solubilized reduced vat dye esters, which uses light rather than oxygen to 'fix' the dye, with a inspirationally wide variety of possible effects. Instead of being applied in an oxygen-free bath and being developed in the fabric by exposure to oxygen, Inkodyes are painted onto the fabric and then developed by
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light. Unlike the Setacolor fabric paints used in sun printing, Inkodyes are true dyes. (A dye actually itself attaches to the fabric; fabric paint includes a glue-like binder, which imparts a stiffer feeling to the fabric.

Suppliers
The only retail source of Inkodye is Dharma Trading Company. There are many textile industry sources for Indigosol dyes, which are the same type of dye used in Inkodye, but these large companies tend to be less suitable for small-scale users such as textile artists.

Naphthol Dyes
Cotton, rayon, and other celluosic fibers, as well as silk, can also be dyed with azoic or naphthol dyes. Naphthol dyes are true cold water dyes. The "cold" water used in fiber reactive dyes such as Procion MX dyes should, ideally, be between 95 and 105F. (35 to 41C), although temperatures as low as 70F. (21C) may be used. In contrast, naphthol dyes may be used in ice water. Both fiber reactive and naphthol dyes are suitable for use in batik, since they do not require heat that would melt the wax to set the dye. Naphthol dyes include more hazardous chemicals than fiber reactive dyes, which makes them less appropriate for home use. The way naphthol dyes are used is fascinating. Two different types of chemicals are mixed in the fiber, the diazo salt and the naphthol; the specific combination determines the color obtained. An advantage of this sort of dye is that contrasting colors may be placed adjacent to each other on fabric without color bleeding from one to the other. As with vat dyes, the final color is provided by insoluble particles of dye that are stuck within the fiber; only the components that react together to form these compounds are themselves soluble in water.

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All Purpose Dyes

All-purpose dye is a hot water dye. It contains a mixture of dyes which will work on many different kinds of fabric and yarn, but not particularly well on any of them. It is often used in situations when another kind of dye would perform better, largely because many people are unaware that there are higher quality dyes that they could use.Theyare a mixture of Acid dye, of the leveling acid type, for dyeing wool and other animal (protein) fibers, as well as nylon, and Direct dye, for dyeing cellulose fibers such as cotton, rayon, linen, etc. In some cases it may contain an acid dye that also happens to work pretty well as a direct dye. All-purpose dye cannot be used to dye polyester or acrylic, and it cannot be used in cold water. Great for Dyeing Fiber Blends All purpose dye is most useful when coloring a blend of protein fiber (or nylon) with a cellulose fiber such as cotton or rayon. Both fibers can be dyed approximately the same color, at the same time. Some examples of such blends include linsey-woolsey, Nycott (unless treated with Teflon, which makes it undyeable), and any cotton or rayon garment with nylon lace trim. Both of the kinds of dye in all-purpose dye tend to bleed and fade in the laundry, but a commercial dye fixative can be used to improve performance. Wasteful for Single Fibers However, when dyeing a pure fiber of any sort, or a mixture of a pure fiber with undyeable synthetics such as polyester or acrylic (which require entirely different dyes), this mixture of dyes represents a waste of dye and money. While dyeing pure cotton, the acid dye brightens the dyed item up only until it is washed for the first time, whereupon all of the acid dye disappears into the sewage system. Conversely, while dyeing wool or nylon alone, the direct dye is wasted, and ends up down the drain. In addition, the formulas for all-purpose dye generally contain a lot of salt. Salt is cheap, but it makes the package appear to contain more dye than it really does. Salt is useful in dyeing solid colors, but causes problems for specialized dyeing techniques in which the dye is painted on the material.

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Suppliers
All-purpose dye is sold under a number of brand names, including Rit brand dye, Dylon Multi-purpose dye (Dylon also sells fiber reactive dyes, in their Cold Water and Washing Machine lines of dye), DEKA L Hot Water Dyes, and Tintex Fabric Dyes. The old Cushing Union dye was also an all-purpose dye, but they have since switched to selling their acid dye and direct dye separately. The single most popular dye sold for home use in the US is Rit brand all-purpose dye. The reason for its popularity is its ubiquity: nearly every grocery store and pharmacy in the US sells an assortment of Rit brand dye on a rack. Use the Correct Technique To dye cellulosic fabric like cotton with all-purpose dye, you must use heat, and plenty of time. Submerging the garment to be dyed in Rit brand dye and simmering hot water will produce pastels after five minutes, or deeper, more intense shades after half an hour. The ideal temperature is far hotter than tap water can reach, at least 190F (or 87C). Do not add soda ash when dyeing with all-purpose dye. Soda ash is used only when dyeing with fiber reactive dye. It will not act as a dye fixative for all-purpose dye. Each packet of all-purpose dye contains only enough dye for 4 to 8 ounces of material (100 to 200 grams). Black requires two to four times as much dye as other colors. Smaller amounts of dye will result in paler colors. Use an After-Treatment to Prevent Bleeding While dyeing cotton with all purpose dyes, the only portion of the dye that actually does anything is the direct dye. Direct dye tends to be poor at surviving washing; it tends to wash out gradually, bleeding on other fabrics. The solution to this problem, which is widely employed by the textile industry, is to apply a cationic dye fixative afterwards which seals the dye into the fiber. Do not use vinegar to try to make all-purpose dye more permanent. Conclusions
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Use all-purpose dye if you want to use a single step to dye a garment that is a mixture of a cellulose fiber, such as cotton or rayon, with either wool, another animal fiber, or nylon. It is actually possible to dye both cotton and nylon in a mixed-fiber garment with the same fiber reactive dye, but this requires a two-step process with two different pH levels. Wool can be dyed with fiber reactive dyes at a pH of 8 or 9, but nylon requires an acid pH. Otherwise, whenever possible, avoid all purpose dye, in favor of a specific acid or direct or fiber reactive dye that specifically matches your fiber and meets your needs. If you want an acid dye that is washfast, use a different type of acid dye, such as Lanaset dye. If one wants a cotton dye that is washfast, choose a fiber reactive dye. For dyeing large quantities of cotton cheaply, mail-order direct dye in bulk.

Textile dyes for wool

Wool is a fiber made from the hair of sheep. Other animal hair fibers, such as angora, mohair, cashmere, and camel's hair, are in most respects dyed the same as wool. All animal fibers are made of a class of chemicals known as protein. Proteins are made out of different combinations of the twenty essential amino acids. They are more complex than cellulose, which is made out of repeating units of a sugar, glucose, and thus there are more ways in which different dye chemicals can attach to them. There are, therefore, many more different substances which can be used to dye protein fibers. All animal hair fibers, such as wool, are sensitive to high pHs. To dye wool,one must avoid the high pH of the soda ash recipes used to dye cotton. Most wooldyeing recipes call for an acid such as acetic acid, white vinegar (which naturally contains acetic acid), or citric acid.

Dyes for Wool

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Acid dyes are the most popular dyes used on wool, and comprise a very wide range of different dyes. Some of the many different available acid dyes include food dyes, Metal Complex (or premetallized) Acid Dyes, Washfast Acid dyes, Acid Leveling dyes, and One Shot dyes. Fiber reactive dyes such as Procion MX, Cibacron F, and Drimarene K can also be used as acid dyes on wool. Natural dyes: Many natural dyes work very well on protein fibers, such as wool. Most will require a mordant, such as alum, copper, tin, or iron, so they are not necessarily more on-toxic than synthetic dyes. Lanaset dyes: The longest lasting, most wash-resistant, richest of hand dyes available for dyeing wool in the US are the Lanaset dyes. The Lanaset dyes comprise a selection of both acid dyes and fiber reactive dyes that are designed for wool. Unlike other dyes for wool, Lanaset dyes can be washed in hot water without fading badly. They are often difficult to obtain other countries in quantities small enough for hand dyeing. Lanaset dyes can be used to dye all polyamide fibers: silk, wool, angora, mohair, and nylon. Lanaset dyes include two or three entirely different classes of dye. They all attach to wool under similar conditions. Lanaset dyes are considerably more washfast than most dyes available for use on wool; they are significantly more permanent than the less washfast members of ProChem'sWashFast Acid dyes or Jacquard's Acid Dyes, and certainly far more washfast than the strong acid (Kiton) dyes. No other group of dyes that is suitable for hand dyeing is more washfast on wool. Unlike other acid dyes, Lanaset dyes are tested in hot water, at 140F, conditions under which many acid dyes will wash out or bleed. The main disadvantage of Lanaset dyes is that they are more expensive than other acid dyes (though lower than all-purpose dyes

How to use
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Lanaset/Sabraset dyes are used at a mildly acid pH; for example, for one pound (0.5 kg) of fiber in 3 gallons (12 liters) of water, use 2 cups (0.5 liter) of distilled white vinegar. Glauber's salt (sodium sulfate) is often used to help level the dye, that is, to produce a smooth single color on the entire batch of wool, instead of coloring some parts strongly and others weakly; typically one cup per pound of fiber in 3.5 gallons of water is recommended. In addition, sodium acetate may be used as a pH buffer, to maintain acidity, at a rate of 2 grams per liter (0.5 to 1 ounce per 3.5 gallon dyebath). Albegal SET is a three-product mix that aids in leveling, to get a smooth solid color. Heat is the final requirement.

Vinyl sulfonedyes :also known as Remazol dyes, are a type of fiber reactive dye that is often used in silk painting. Unlike Procion MX dyes, they can be applied to wool under acid conditions as true fiber reactive dyes, rather than as acid dyes. Note that ProChem sells these under the name "Liquid Reactive Dyes", Dharma Trading Company as "Vinyl Sulphon", and other suppliers as "Remazol" dyes. Vat Dyes: such as indigo, can also be used to dye wool and other protein fibers, but the recipe must be modified to avoid pHs high enough to damage the wool. All purpose dyes: can be used to dye protein fibers, because they include an acid dye in their mixture.The color might be slightly different than expected, and the expense is higher than with other dyes.

How to use the different dyes

The different types of dyes used on wool are not interchangeable. All require a mild acid, such as vinegar, citric acid, ammonium sulfate, or sodium acetate, but not necessarily in the same quantities, and some require additional chemicals such as salt, Albegal SET, or sodium sulfate (Glauber's salt). Some dyes require a significantly lower (more acidic) pH than others; using a pH that is too low or too high for some specific dye will reduce the success in dyeing. After selecting the dye, find a wool-dyeing recipe that specifies that particular sort of dye.

Suppliers
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 PRO Chemical & Dye, which sells most of these types of dye, has a full range of reliable instruction sheets for each of many different types of dye. Dharma Trading Company provides Instructions and Tutorials. Jacquard Products has a page listing different Product Instructions.

Batik Oetoro in Australia gives instructions for different dyes on a single Directions page. Kraftkolour in Australia has a wonderful selection of Instruction Sheets for many different dyes including Acid Milling Dyes, Lanaset and Lanasol dyes. Fibrecrafts in the UK lists pages of instructions in their Fact File.

Although they're not a supplier for hand dyers, it's interesting to look at the industrial recipes provided by Town End Colours in the UK for each of their classes of dyes. Suppliers of Lanaset dyes Lanaset dyes are sold by several dye suppliers, including Paradise Fibers and PRO Chemical and Dye under their name of Sabraset. They are also sold under the brand name Telana. They are manufactured by Huntsman Textile Effects, which purchased the global Textile Effects business of Ciba Specialty Chemicals Inc. in 2006.

Textile Dyes used for silk

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Acid dyes are used to dye protein fibers such as wool, angora, cashmere, and silk, as well the milk protein fiber called Silk Latte, the soy protein fiber called Soy Silk, and the synthetic polyamide fiber nylon. Acid dyes sound scary to some novices, who imagine that the dyes themselves are caustic strong acids. In fact, the dyes are non-caustic, are in some cases non-toxic, and are named for the mild acid (such as vinegar) used in the dyeing process, and for the types of bonds they form to the fiber. Some of them are significantly more toxic than fiber reactive dyes, while others are even safe enough to eat, and are sold as food coloring. Marabou silk colour hand dye Silk fabrics can be dyed very easily and individually with Marabu-Silk Color. The versatile selection of colours offers both up to the minute fashionable shades and classic basic shades. Silk dyed with Marabu-Silk Color will have exceptional colour brilliance, permanent light fastness and incredibly soft feel. Marabu-Silk Color is extremely wash-resistant when washed by hand and also dry-clean-resistant directly after the dyeing process. In combination with Marabu-Contours & Effects, Marabu-Velvet Touch (as photo) and thickened Marabu-Silk, which are applied after dyeing, brand new dimensions in silk fabric design can be created. With the help of MarabuStencils and Marabu-Design Stamps creating something individual is very easy.

Definition of Auxiliaries
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A chemical or formulated chemical product which enables a processing operation in preparation, dyeing, printing or finishing to be carried out more effectively, or whichis essential if a given effect is to be obtained. Necessity of auxiliaries in textile dyeing (a) To prepare or improve the substrate in readiness for coloration by scouring, bleaching and desizing wetting enhancing the whiteness by a fluorescent brightening effect (b)To modify the sorption characteristics of colorants by acceleration retardation creating a blocking or resist effect providing sites for sorption unifying otherwise divergent rates of sorption improving or resisting the migration of dyes (c) To stabilize the application medium by improving dye solubility stabilizing a dispersion or solution thickening a print paste or pad liquor inhibiting or promoting foaming forming an emulsion scavenging or minimizing the effects of impurities preventing or promoting oxidation or reduction (d) To protect or modify the substrate by creating or resisting dye ability lubricating the substrate protecting against the effects of temperature and other processing conditions (e) To improve the fastness of dyeing, as in the after treatment of direct or reactive dyes the after treatment of acid dyes on nylon the chroming of mordant dyes on wool or nylon inhibitors of gas-fume fading back-scouring or reduction clearing (f)To enhance the properties of laundering formulations (fluorescent brighteningagents).

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Auxilliaries used with different dyes

Dyes for Cellulosic Fibers Direct Dyes (Anionic) : They can be dyed directly on cellulosic fibers.Without the presence of salt, when the fibers are immerged in water, it will showanionic charge which repels the dyes. Adding salt into the dye bath, it will reduce anionic on the fibers so the dyes can get closer and adsorb into the fibers. Advantage: cheap, easily dyed on fibers Disadvantage: poor wet fastness and some dyes have poor light fastness. Textile Auxiliaries: 1. Salt - reduce negative charges on the fibers2. Water - dyeing media3. Fixing Agent - enhance wet fastness but usually reduce light fastness Dyeing Conditions: (Exhaustion): dyeing lOOoC x 30-90 mm fixing 6OoC x 20 mm.(Continuous) pad --> dry --> steam --> wash --> soap --> dry Reactive Dyes (Anionic): They can be dyed on cellulosic fibers. The mechanism isnearly the same as described in direct dyes.

Advantage: high wet fastness due to covalent bonding (Chemical Bonding) betweenfibers and dyes, easily dyed on fibers. Disadvantage: Expensive.

Dyeing Conditions: 1. Continuous Process: 1.1Pad-dry-bake This is very easy method for cotton or cotton blends fibers.
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1.2Pad-dry-Pad (Chemical)-Steam This will give brighter and more intense color than method 1.1. 1.3Pad-batch This will put the goods into the dye solution and squeeze with 2 rubber rollers to get rid of excess water and then batch at room temperature for 1-2 days. 2. Exhaustion Process: This method will be used in small factory. Dyeing conditionswill be 40-8OoC for 30-90 mm depending to the types and structures of the dyes. Textile Auxiliaries: 1. Salt - reduce negative charges on the fibers 2. Water - dyeing media. 3. Soda Ash - excite the dye to link with the fibers with covalent bonding. Therefore it enhances wet fastness 4. Fixing Agent - enhances wet fastness for heavy shade but usually reduce lightfastness. Vat Dye (Anionic when soluble): The dye is named from the container (Vat) that used for rotting the dye with alkalis o l u t i o n . T h i s c r u c i a l p r o c e s s w i l l r e d u c e t h e d y e f r o m i n s o l u b l e t o s o l u b l e d y e (suitable for exhaustion in the cellulosic fibers). Now the manufacturer cansynthesizeman-made vat dye.

Dyeing Process: 1. Dissolve dye into water (insoluble dye) 2. Vatting process by reducing the insoluble dye in alkali condition. (Soluble dye) 3. Absorb into fibers (soluble dye) 4. After dyeing, oxidize the dye with oxidizing agent (insoluble dye)5. Wash and soap the goods Dyeing Conditions:1. Continuous Process 1.1 Pad-dry-Pad (Chemical): The solution of the dye is prepared without adding reducing agent to ensure leveling dyeing. After that, the goods are passed to chemical bath to reduce the dye into soluble dye and fix within the goods. Oxidizing agent isadded to the goods and converted to insoluble dyes. 1.2 Pad-oxidize-pad-oxidize (many times):
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This will put the goods into the dyesolution and squeeze with 2 rubber rollers to get rid of excess water, oxidize with theair and then immerse into the dye solution again and again to allow the dye penetrateinto the goods.

Textile Auxiliaries
1. Salt - reduce the negative charges on the fibers 2 . Sodium hydroxide - adjusts pH to the dyeing bath and makes the suitableconditions for reducing agent. 3. Sodium hydrosulfite - reducing agent for the vat dyes. 4. Water - dyeing media 5. Oxidizing agents - (Hydrogen peroxide or Acetic acid or Air) oxidize the soluble toinsoluble dye Acid Dye (Anionic): The dye is called acid because it needs acidic dyeing condition.It can be dyed on protein fibers (silk, wool, and other animal fibers) and on polyamidefibers. Acidic condition will give the fibers showing positive charge. As the negativecharge will attach directly to positive charge, and penetrate into the fibers. Dyeing conditions: l00 x 30-60 mm Textile Auxiliaries: 1. Leveling agent - for levelness dyeing. 2. Retarding agent - for inhibiting the dye not attach to fibers too fast. 3. Acid - adjust the dyeing condition and make the fibers to show positive charges. 4. Water - dyeing media.

Basic Dye (Cationic) The dye shows positive charge. Normally, the dye can be applied on wool, silk and poly-acrylonitrile (acrylic).Dyeing Conditions:l00oC x 30-60 mm Dyes Dyeing Condition (pH)Acid (Wool) 2-4, 4-6, 6-8 (depends on types of
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dyes)Acid (Nylon) 4.5-5.5, on types of dyes)Basic 3.5-4Direct 7.0Disperse (Polyester) 5-6Disperse (Acetate) 6.5-7.0Disperse (Triacetate) 4.5-6.5Reactive 7.0 (Exhaustion)11.0 (Fixing) Textile Auxiliaries: 1. Leveling agent - for levelness dyeing. 2. Retarding agent - for inhibiting the dye not attach to fibers too fast.

3. Acid - adjust the dyeing condition and make the fibers to show negative charges. 4. Water - dyeing media.

Synthesis of Reactive Auxiliaries for Dye Resist T r e a t m e n t o f Wool

Auxiliary products of various types are commonly used in the dye bath during the lowtemperature dyeing of wool. Such chemicals are used to promote dye bathexhaustion and to achieve level dyeing . A resist process may be defined as onewhich modifies a textile fiber in such away that when the resist treated fiber issubsequently dyed, it absorbs dye to a lesser extent or at a slower rate than untreatedfiber. Various treatments have been proposed for imparting dye resist effects to wool,for example, sulphonation,acetylation, glyoxylation, deposition of polymers, alkalinechlorination and treatment with formaldehyde,sulphamic acid, tannic acid/metalsalts, synthetic tanning agents and also colourless reactive compound.Among them reactive dye resist agents are preferred due to their easy handling andapplication. A viable dye resist agent must be completely cured and bound firmlyto the wool substrate in order to achieve satisfactory dye resist effects. Increasingthe substantivity between the substrate and the dye resist agents is one of the mostimportant factors needed to improve dye resist effects.In order to increase thissubstantivity one possible effective dye resist method would be to covalently bind thedye resist agents to the wool substrate using suitable fiber reactive groups. In thiswork we synthesized
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three reactive auxiliaries containing s-triazine based reactivegroups which were used for treating wool. Three acid dyes containing differentnumber of sulphonic acid groups were used for dyeing treated wool Three acid dyes which have different numbers of sulphonate groups were used are in table 1. The commercial names and color Index names for these dyes are given in table 2:

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List OfSuppliers

Adhik Chemicals - Manufacturer and exporter of solvents, dyes, pigment, and intermediates. Airedale Chemical Co. Ltd. - Supplier of dyes, dyestuffs, and chemical products for the textiles, agricultural, and aluminium industries. Alabama Pigments Company - Producer of black and natural red iron oxide pigments. ALPS Industries - Manufactures natural dyes, cotton products, dye fibres, and yarns. Ama Herbal Laboratories - Manufacturer of extracts of eco-friendly natural dyes for textile and hair. Amantech - Importer of Indian pigments, dyes, food colours, and raw materials for the coatings industry. Ambuja Intermediate Products Pvt. Ltd. Manufacturer of dye intermediates, dyestuffs, and pigments. American Colors, Inc. - Coloration systems for the plastics and coatings industries. Amichem Corporation - Manufactures metallic salts, organic, inorganic, and basic chemicals. Anar Chemicals - Manufactures synthetic organic dyes, pigments, and intermediates. Apollo Chemical Corporation - Supplier of textile chemicals. ArunChemi-Dyes - Manufacturer and exporter of sodium naphthionate, betahydroxynapthoic acid, bon acid, and parachloro aniline. Asian Dyestuff Industries - Manufactures reactive, direct, and acid dyes and pigment powders. Atlas Dye-Chem Industries - Manufactures

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reactive dyes. B.R. Group - Distributing pigments, dyes, and other chemical products. Bajaj Group of Companies - Manufactures dyes and dyes intermediates, as well as roasted peanuts and peanut butter. CDR Pigments & Dispersions - Manufactures colorants and varnishes for ink, plastic and paint applications. Chemco India - Manufacturer and exporter of basic, solvent, and acid dyes, as well as food colours. Chemical Factory Triade - Makes dyestuffs and pigments for the textile, paper, and leather industries. Chemrez - Manufacturer of paints and coatings, inks, resins, and colorants. China Wellton Chemical Co. Ltd. - Providing organic pigment, pigments printing paste, dispersion dye, and more. Cleveland Pigment & Color Co. - Processes pigments for rubber, plastics, and other industries. ColoresNaturales de Chile - Producing and manufacturing cochineal extracts and derived carmines for the food and cosmetic industries. Colorwen International Corp. - Serves domestic and international markets with dry pigments, presscake, water-based ink, colour paste, colourmasterbatch, pigment flush, and inkjet inks. Coltech Chemicals - Manufactures copper phthalocyanine green. Coral Group - Iron oxide red and black manufacturer. Creanova, Inc. - Provides tinters, inks, biocides, raw materials, and additives to industry.

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Daemyung Industry - Producing dyeing, printing, pretreatment, and sizing chemicals for the textile trade. Deepak Chemicals Group - Manufactures pigments, dyes, and dye intermediates. Delta Colours - Colour pigments for the paint, plastics, ink, and construction industries. Devarsons Industries Limited - Makes pigments and dyes. Dyetex Corporation - Manufactures synthetic, intermediate, coaltar, and colorant dyes. Elian - Masterbatch and colorant manufacturer for plastics coloration. Farbenchem International - Marketing dyes, dye intermediates, pigments, and pigment intermediates. Gopal Chemicals - Manufacturing food colours. Gwalior Oil Mills - Makers of oil, paints, resins, and pigments. Hangzhou Pigment Chemicals Plant - Exporter and manufacturer of organic pigment, anthraquinone and h-acid. Hastand - Offer a range of chemicals, including pigments, dyestuffs, and pharmaceutical raw materials. Hebei Jiehong Dyestuff Chemical Corporation Tianjin Dept.@ HebeiLuquanXingyu Chemical Factory Manufacturer of dyestuffs including basic red, basic violet, monochloroacetic acid, fluorescent brighteners, thiourea dioxide, and 6-chloro-2hexanone. HebeiQuzhouChenguang Natural Pigment Co.,Ltd - Manufacturer of natural pigment for foodstuffs including red chillicolour, extract, chilliflavouring essence, xanthophylls, and more.

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HebeiWuqiangRuixin Chemical Co. Manufacturer of organic pigment and intermediates, including basic green, basic orange, and others. HebeiXihai Dyestuff Group Co., Ltd. - Offering intermediates, direct dyes, reactive dyes, and more. Hema Chemical - Manufactures organic dyes and intermediates. Holland Colours - Produces pigments and pigment dispersions mainly for the plastics industry worldwide. Indo Colchem Ltd. - Manufactures dyes and intermediates. Industrial Colours and Chemicals Limited Supplier of dyes and pigments to manufacturing industries such as, paint and coating, graphic arts, plastics and rubber, paper, and more. JagsonColchem - Makes reactive dyes including acids and direct dyes. JyotiColours - Manufacturer and exporter of organic and inorganic pigments, dyes, metallic powder, oils, and resins. Based in Bangalore, India. Karnavati Chemicals - Manufactures monochloro acetic acid. Kerr-McGee Corporation - Energy and inorganic chemical company with worldwide operations. Kiburn Chemicals - Manufactures titanium dioxide, ferrous sulphateheptahydrate, mixed sulphate salt, and ferro gypsum. Kromachem - Chemicals and pigments for the coatings industries and silicone rubber for mould making. Kronos, Inc. - Hightstown, NJ - Anatase/rutile titanium dioxide pigment for whiteness, brightness and opacity in paints, coatings, plastics, paper, ink, fibres and ceramics. Kumar Textile Industries - Products include

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direct, reactive, acid, and basic dyes. LuenShing Company - Hong Kong-based enterprises specialising in auxiliary, dyestuff, and chemical products for the fur and leather industries. Magruder Color Company - Manufacturer of dry and flushed pigments for sheetfed, web offset, heatset, news, aqueous and solvent inks. Mahavir Chemicals - Exporter of acid, pigment, leather, and non bezidine dyes. Manan Ceramic Colours - Manufacturers and suppliers of zirconium oxide, high and low temperature ceramic colours, glass colours, reactive frit, and related glazes. Meilida Pigment Industry Company Manufactures organic pigment and intermediates, mainly phthalocyanine blue series products. Nanjing New Chemicals Import and Export Corporation - Manufacturer and exporter of disperse dyestuffs, solvent dyestuffs, chemical intermediates, and pigments. Narayan Group of Industries - Offers pigments, copper salts, and more. Neelikon Food Dyes & Chemicals - Makes writing ink, fluorescent pigments, and colours for food, pharmaceuticals, and cosmetics. Ningbo Huajie Chemical - Manufacturer and exporter of disperse dyes, pigments, intermediates, and other chemical products. Nova Dyestuff Industries - Manufactures and exports dyes, auxiliaries, intermediates, and more. Novasoft Systems - Manufacturing natural and synthetic dyes. Organic Dyestuffs, Inc. - Manufacturers of dyes and auxiliaries for all industries. Orient Corporation of America - Manufacturer of dyes and pigments for plastics, inks, toners,

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charge control agents, leather, and anodized aluminium. Parikh Enterprises Limited - Manufacturers and exporters of copper fungicides, copper chemicals, copper pigments, cpc blue like copper sulphate, and bordeaux. Plasticolors, Inc. - Supplier of colorants and chemical dispersions for the plastics industry. Prem Dye Chem Industries - Manufactures acid, direct, and leather dyes. Recent Laboratories - Manufacturer of alkali cyanates. Offers indigeniously developed products. Renshel Exports - Manufactures aleuritic acid and shellac products. Ritchemie - Manufacturers and suppliers of dyes. Rossari - Products include dyes, intermediates, and enzymes for textiles and leather. Sajjan India Ltd. - Manufacturing and exporting dyes and dye intermediates. Sanyo Color Works, Ltd. - Manufacturing pigments, dyes, functional pigments, cationic pigment-dyes, pigment dispersions, and more. Saraf Chemical Industries - Processes and exports granite blocks, slabs, tiles, marble, slate, and sandstone as well as reactive, acid, and direct dyes. Sarichem Dyestuff - Offers a wide range of dyestuff. ShidimoInteraux - Manufacturer and exporter of acid , acid milling, metal complex, and solvent dyes. Also, dye intermediates, and textile auxiliaries. Shree Polymers Manufactures pigment emulsions and binders. Shreenath Dye Chem Industries - Manufactures

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vat pastes, pigments, emulsions, and textile auxilaries. Sinlai Industries Corp. - Colours (dye/pigment), fine and speciality chemicals and pharmaceuticals suppliers. Soujanya Enterprises - Specialists in pigments and pigment dispersion for use in paint, soap, detergent and printing ink. Sparkle India - Manufactures pigments, dyes, and colours for plastics, paints, leather, textiles, and printing inks. Specialised Industrial Chemicals Ltd - Supplies speciality inks and chemicals to British and European industries covering the automotive, electronics, marine, and engineering sectors. Spectra Colors Corporation - Industrial inks, dyes and colorants for all needs. Spectrum Dyes & Chemicals Pvt. Ltd. Manufacture disperse dyes for use in the textile industry. Stallion Impex, Ltd. - Manufactureres of reactive, direct and acid dyestuffs. Standardcon - Manufacturers and exporters of aluminium lake and food colours. Stoopen&Mee S.A. - Pigments and dyes for woods, cement, plastics, printing, food, and more, specially formulated by request. Sudarshan Chemical Industries - Manufactures and markets a range of paint, plastic, and ink pigments as well as agricultural chemicals and environmental products Sun Chemical - Manufacturer of printing inks, coatings and organic pigments. Sunbelt Corporation Tabercolor - Printing inks for paper and PVC

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surfaces, pigment dispersions, and more. Texchem - Manufacturers of chemical products for textile dyeing and finishing. Thirumalai Chemicals - Manufactures and markets industrial chemicals for the plastics, paints, resin industries, and additives for the food and feed industry. TOR Minerals International - Markets and manufactures pigments for paints, plastics, and other products that require colorization. U H International - Chemical company in India, developing and suppling food colours, dyes, flavours, and fragrances globaly. Ushanti - Offers dyestuff, pigment, colour matching, and intermediate processes. Vidhi Dyestuffs Manufacturing Ltd. Manufacturers and exporters of food colours. Vinayak Corporation - Manufacturers of menthol, food colours, essential oils, aromatic chemicals, and dyes. Vipul Dye Chem Limited - Manufactures pigment emultions, solvent colours and acid dyes. Zhe Jiang Wan Tong Chemical - Manufacturer and exporter of disperse dyes. Includes company profile and online inquiry form. Zydex Industries - Supplies textile polymers, printing thickeners, coatings, dispersants, and other finishing chemicals.

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Biblography

Books referred: 1. B.P.Corbman 2. Chemistry of dyes & principles of dyeing 3. V.A.Shenai 4. Tortora 5. Hurst 6. NCUTE Progress series Websites referred: 1. www.wikipidea.com 2. file:///I:/dnp/Paula%20Burch's%20About%20Dyes.htm 3. file:///I:/dnp/Rainbow%20Silks%20%20%20Fabric%20Dyes.htm 4. file:///I:/dnp/Process%20for%20dyeing%20cellulosic%20...%20%20Google%20Patents.htm#v=onepage&q=Textile%20dyes%20and%20au xiliaries%20for%20cellulosic%20materials&f=false 5. file:///I:/dnp/DyStar%20-%20World%20of%20Textiles.htm 6. file:///I:/dnp/Dyeing%20Auxiliaries,Textile%20Dyeing%20Auxiliaries,Dyei ng%20Auxiliaries%20Importers%20India.htm 7. file:///I:/dnp/Clariant%20Textile%20Chemicals%20-%20%20Special%20Dyes.htm 8. file:///I:/Aurora%20Silk%20-%20Natural%20&%20Plant%20Dyes.htm 9. file:///I:/Yahoo!%20India%20Directory%20%20%20Pigment%20and%20D ye%20Manufacturers%20and%20Distributors.htm 10.A study of textile Dyeing Auxiliaries.htm

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