Radianta Triatmadja
Lecture note 4
WAVE and WAVE CLIMATES
Wind waves are generated by wind.
Wind stress on water surface, transfers the
wind energy to the water and create
waves
The waves energy and so the wave height
depends on the wind energy transferred
which is a function of :
Wind speed, wind duration and fetch
Coordinate system used in wave
dynamic
Z
peak
0,0
78,-6.3
45, -h
X
Notations
Height =H
Amplitude = a,
or H/2 Fluctuation =
(x,z)
H cosh k ( h z1 )
sin( kx1 t )
2 sinh kh
H sinh k ( h z1 )
cos( kx1 t )
2 sinh kh
Particle trajectory
• What can be concluded from the fact that
the particle is moving in circle ?
•
Pressure under waves
H cosh k ( h z )
p gz g cos( kx t )
2 cosh kh
Dispersion Equation
gk tanh kh
2
gT 2 2 h
Wave Length L tanh
2 L
gT 2h
Wave celerity C tanh
2 L
Wave Energy
gH
2
Et L
8
Wind duration
(hrs)
H in meter
Wind Waves
Wind
Speed
Fetch
Wind duration
(hrs)
T in seconds
H in meter
Wind Waves
Wind
Speed
Wave height
Fetch
Wind duration
(hrs)
Wind Waves
Wind
Speed
Fully
developed
sea
Fetch
Adjusted Wind Speed
1/7
10
Adjustment due to measurement U10 U z
above or below 10 meter
z
R
Adjustment if measurement
is conducted inland
Adjustment to
accommodate
temperature difference
Wind
H in meter, is significant Wave
Waves
Height
Wind
Speed
Fetch
Wave Height Statistic
• Hs = H significant , the average of 33% highest
waves in the record
• H10 = the average of 10% highest waves in the
record
F ECn
Wave Transformation
• Wave refraction (water depth variation)
• Wave Shoaling (shallow water)
• Wave defraction (obstruction)
Front Velocity
Lg
1 2 kh
Cg 1 C
2 sinh 2kh