Ladakh in WagonR at +63

Dear all, Returned safely from Ladakh tour after 27 days and 6700 km. drive in WagonR with my spouse. Would like to share some experiences and photos with all of you. The 3 photos are of Day 1. The Jain mandir along Ahemedabad highway was our first break for lunch.

Ladakh in WagonR at +63

The Day 1 halt was planned at Ankaleshwar in Hotel Lords Plaza, which was a vert good hotel on Mumbai Ahmedabad Highway

1. Re: Ladakh in WagonR at +63

Day 1 upto Ankaleshwar was comfortable travel but difficult to write & upload in the forum being new. Now I have learnt tricks of this and will go faster. Now 2 pictures of Vadodara Ahmedabad highway.

Now from Ahmedabad we proceeded to Udaipur and along Ahmedabad Udaipur highway 4 more photos.

The highway was very good and driving was pleasure.

After Udaipur we proceeded to Jaipur. At jaipur photo of famous Hawamahal was captured.

We also went to Amer fort. 2 more photos of Amer fort.

We stayed in a nice resort at Jaipur called Gold palace Resort and from there left for Ambala next day. One photo before leaving resort.

Now more about Ambala Amritsar Wagha border tomorrow.

1. Re: Ladakh in WagonR at +63

We bypassed Delhi by offtaking from Rewadi on highway, and via Zajjar reached Rohatak and then to Ambala. I think we saved some time by avoiding traffic jams of Delhi but road was not as good as highway but rural developements in villages along the road could be seen. From Ambala we reached Amrutsar. While asking route on road I was clarified by local man staying in Ambala city "to call it Amritsar not Amrutsar". On roads I saw Amrutsar written on many Km. stones. Does not matter? Now Golden Temple photo 3 nos.

After darshan we went to Wagha border to see Retreat Parade held every evening and Wagha border is hardly 25 km. from Amrutsar. See our gate " Mera Bharat Mahan"

Large gathering from mera Bharat visits this place as a visitor of the Retreat Parade. See the public gathered there.

Last edited by vijaypendse; 11-08-10 at 12:11 PM.

Re: Ladakh in WagonR at +63

Our BSF Jawan looking forceful and getting ready for the Retreat Parade

Every day the flags of Bharat & Pakistan are seremoniously withdrawn before sunset. "Zanda Utarana" 2 photos

Now next day morning started for Jammu and after some travel Jammu is 38 km. away

A good big statue of Hanuman on highway

Re: Ladakh in WagonR at +63

From Jammu continued to Patnitop, a developed hillstation near Kud and Batot on way to Shrinagar. These places are used for night halt before Jawahar tunnel.

On way to Patnitop we saw Bhandara for Amarnath Yatri. All along on way to Shrinagar lot of Bhandaras were seen on highway.

At Patnitop we stayed in hotel Holiday Inn and one photo taken from balcony of our room

Next day was rest day and we went to Batot nearby.

1. Re: Ladakh in WagonR at +63

Day8, 4th July Sunday, Patnitop to Shrinagar and finally to Sonmarg 270km. Now the journey to Shrinagar/Himalaya/Leh/Ladakh starts from Patnitop.

We were asked to stop atleast at 5-6 police checkposts as Amarnath Yatra had started. I explained that we are not going to Amarnath and heading towards Leh via Shrinagar. At Ramban village near the bridge all vehicles were stopped and we were asked to wait in parking area. I asked for the senior most Police officer and a young IPS who was DSP came and explained that we would be taken in a convoy with security. I explained that I am a senior Govt. Officer and Retired Principal Secretary Govt. of Maharashtra and would like to go to Sonmarg by evening, not even stopping at Shrinagar. Very politely he asked " Sir, Are you sure that you are not going to Amarnath" I told him that I am pretty sure and also not intrested in going there. He then after some more discussion congratulated for planning a trip from Pune to Ladakh and also wished good luck. So that's all and we started our drive and thereafter always told after showing I card that we are going to Kargil and not to Sonmarg as about 40% people go to Amarnath from Sonmarg also. Photo near Ramban village. See unpolluted river.

Re: Ladakh in WagonR at +63

Now entering beautiful Kashmir valley 2 photos

For going to Shrinagar we cross Jawahar tunnel shown below.

Now Shrinagar is 68km. away

Beautiful Awantipur village on way to Shrinagar and rice cultivation in paddy fields

View of Dal Sarovar

Lotus Garden near house boat in Dal Sarovar

From Dal sarovar we proceeded to Sonmarg and the road is on right bank of lake. Beautiful view on way

and along lake.

Now we are entering Sonmarg 3 photos

Re: Ladakh in WagonR at +63

Luck favoured us as on Sunday 4th July Shrinagar was totally peaceful. There was some unrest in nearby areas but city was normal with many tourists enjoying and strolling along Dal Sarovar. We were able to take lunch in Nathu Sweets just opposite lake and also enjoyed 1 hour shikara ride. We did not stay in Shrinagar and ran away from there to Sonmarg. Next day and thereafter lot of unrest all along Kashmir continued till last week. God knows the actual situation and any thing can happen in this adventure tour any time. At Sonmarg we stayed in J & K Govt. Tourist center and some photos taken next day.

Day 9- 5th July Monday Sonmarg to Kargil 120 km. We left for Dras-Kargil and on way a big Amarnath Yatri camp was seen. Govt. seems to be taking lot of efforts to make Yatra successful.

After some ime we entered beautiful valley near Dras.

See the first glimps of snow clad mountains. All new and interesting view.

On way to Kargil Dras War Memorial Operation Vijay is worth to be seen.

Now on way to Kargil along highway beautiful rose plants are seen.

After driving till afternoon we enter Kargil

Re: Ladakh in WagonR at +63

At Kargil after entering city we were not impressed by the look and were not sure about getting a suitable hotel. So in difficulty my method "Use your I card". So straightway went to DC's bunglow near Circuit house. After having a cup of tea with him we were comfortable in our suite in Kargil Circuit house. We stayed there overnight and also continued 1 more day to take rest and to acclimatize to high altitude. We also started taking 250mg.Diamox 1/2 tablet twice a day.

Day 10 6th July Tuesday Kargil Now today was rest day. So let me tell how the idea of this adventure tour came up. I exchanged my 9 year old WagonR with a latest model K series engine WagonR on 3rd June. I had in mind to go to some long drive but not a tour of this kind. My wife suggested about Leh Ladakh as she had read about it in some magazine. After some discussion I decided to look into this seriously and started searching for information in all forms. We also purchased a book "Lonely Planet India travel guide". I started searching on internet and became member of this Forum on 16th June.

Re: Ladakh in WagonR at +63

Day11 & 7/7/10 Wednesday Kargil to Leh 235 Km. Forgot to tell about Zojila pass, the first one met with on these hilly roads.-After we started from Sonmarg we reached near Zojila Pass at about 1000 hrs. & we were asked to stop at police check post before Zojila pass and were also informed that all vehicles will be released at 1500 hrs as work is going on at the pass. I explained that we have to reach Leh by evening and tried with the use of my I card. All went in vain but I got information that D.I.G is passing at 1100 hrs. with 3-4 vehicles. So I kept my car in front of all cars and told police to allow me with those vehicles. They could not refuge as I told them that my rank is above D.I.G. and thus could join those vehicles at 1100 hrs or so. Thereafter every where we were given preference and roads were cleared for these 5-6 vehcles. No problem " Govt. I card helps everywhere everytime." Now after rest @ Kargil again started for Leh on hilly roads.

Near Mulbek village various mountains present very good view. 6 photos of these mountains.

A photo of village on Leh Road

After some time we were at Nakeela Pass, 3 photos

And the journey continues along Kargil Leh highway ----A view of beautiful Nature

Khangral Village farms are seen below

Border Road Organisation construct & maintain highway in Ladakh. They are seen at work

Budkhabru Military Camp was along highway. 4 photos

Now we reached near Fotula Pass 2 photo

Now at the Pass

Again near Fotula Pass

Re: Ladakh in WagonR at +63

2 photo at Lamaru view point

See the winding roads --

The nature is at it's best in Ladakh -

More tomorrow 1. n the highway Dras-Kargil-Leh we cross many military trucks & all sort of vehicles. The convoy of atleast 20-25 vehicles crosses and we have to wait as the roads are narrow.

Again some more photo along Leh highway.

Many winding roads continue.

So after some time reached near Leh but still 97 km. away

Photo of mountain near Narala village.

View of Basgo village

And finally reached very near Leh ( 9km.away) Altitude 11500ft.

After entering Leh we decided to straightway go to Circuit house. As we were entering Circuit house and parking our car I saw D.C.'s car near the entrance. I immediatly went there as he was sitting in car and leaving for his home. After I went there D.C. came out from car and also arranged for my suite in Circuit house. After some time we were in our suite sipping tea. Next day was rest day at Leh. We obtained required permits etc. and did shopping of minor items. More about Pangong lake in next post.----

Re: Ladakh in WagonR at +63

Day 13, 9th July 2010 Friday Leh to Pangong lake & back 340 km. We were advised in Leh circuit house that if we start early Pangong lake trip can be comfortably completed in a day. So early start at 700 hrs.

After about 2 hours drive and before mighty Changala Pass

Now appraoching mighty Changala Pass

Before Changala Pass - Zingral @ 15500ft.

Again appraoching mighty Changala Pass

Now finally at the Changala Pass

Changala Pass Mandir

Again heading towards Pangong Lake

First glimps of Pangong Lake. Film 3 Idiots climax scene was shot near this lake.

More photos of Magnificent Pangong Lake in next post.--Now we are very near lake

See the beautiful and magnificent Pangong Lake -

After some time we started returning to Leh and on way

Again at Changala pass while returning to Leh

See the winding hilly roads

After returning to Leh next day was again a rest day. Sunday 11th July was utilised for K Top --in next post

Re: Ladakh in WagonR at +63

Day 15 11th July Sunday Leh-K Top-Nubra valley 145 km. Again the journey on winding roads to famous K Top highest motorable road in world -- Real great achievement of life time !!!! All the credit for these beautiful photographs goes to my wife. She took all the pains to select the spot, get down from car every time(1100 times), take photo etc. I was all the time busy in driving and these hilly narrow roads are really dificult to drive. All the initial planning, collecting information from internet etc. was done by me. Thereafter responsibility of day to day selection of hotel, food management and photographs was totally undertaken by my wife. We never booked hotel in advance but careful selection by her helped us to make stay comfortable. With dual efforts we were successful in safely completing this adventure tour to mountain kingdom of Ladakh. "Really God is great". Let us again start early from Leh to K Top --

On the outskirts of Leh

Going towards K Top

Now near the K Top

Now finally at K Top

After K Top we proceeded to Nubra Valley

Lovely thread. Off topic but your this picture shows the reason for recent Leh slush calamity. The whole hill side is barren and a sudden elevated rainfall makes the water and mud rush towards Leh town. The town (areas of greenery) is at end of funnel and thus comes in for worst from Nature.

Now we are entering Nubra Valley

Sand dunes of Hunder

Camels of Hunder

More sand dunes seen while returning

Day 16 12th July 2010 Monday Diskit Sumur Leh 165km. While returning after going to Sumur we were again at K Top

Returning to Leh

Entering Leh

We have to note that Leh incidence was a natural calamity and not a man made disaster. In plains people cut trees and remove vegetation cover but in Ladakh sub zero or very low temprature for 8-9 months does not allow anything to grow, not even grass. Thus trees are difficult to be seen in such a barren area. The Leh incidence was due to local concentrated creation of clouds due to heat, then sudden cooling in night followed by heavy cocentrated rain at a particular spot. We can't avoid such things, similar to earthquacks etc. Ofcourse we can help nature by environment protection and also by controlling population growth. Remember 20-30 years back all city and towns were peaceful and available infrastructure was sufficient. After our visit to Ladakh we started returning from Manali side. We were first not sure about road conditions as one bridge had washed away in earlier week. We went to bus stand and enquired about road and were informed that it is OK now. We had one more day so next evening again confirmed with taxi driver who had just returned and then decided to go via Manali. We wanted to avoid again returning from Shrinagar side as lot of unrest continued there. So finally 14th July morning 400 hrs was our starting time as we wanted to go straight 370 km. upto Keylong . Of course we did as planned but on reaching Keylong at 1930 hrs. we were completely exhausted and went to bed in 5 minutes without dinner. One funny thing remained to be narrated in Ambala- Amrutsar drive. We were following one bus which was trying to overtake one truck. The truck driver was not allowing bus driver to overtake. After some time bus managed to overtake but the driver continued to travel by the side of truck at the same speed of truck. The cleaner of the bus on the left side stood up and bending outside the bus towards truck gave 3-4 slaps to the truck driver. Bus driver continued to maintain equal speed witht truck and the cleaner continued to

beat truck driver. After they were satisfied by beating him they went away by overtaking. May be Jats can not control there anger ??? It was a very funny incidence which we observed closely as we were just following them. Now our journey to Manali starts from Leh and many more photos to come in next post. ---By visiting Leh Ladakh we achieved driving highest motorable road in world and enjoyed " Nature at it's best ". About 6 years back we went for 4 Dham Yatra (Gangotri, Jamnotri, Kedarnath, Badrinath) in our old WagonR and in that trip stayed for a week at a resort in Auli near Joshimath. We kept our car about 5 km. away from resort as it was only apprachable by cable car or jeep of the resort. It was highest ski resort in world at about 10000 ft. It was famous for winter sports especially Sking. So achieved visiting 2 things in Himalaya which are highest in World !!!!.

1. Re: Ladakh in WagonR at +63

Day 18 , 14th July 2010, Wednesday, Leh-Sarchu-Darcha-Keylong 370km. We planned for 400 hrs start from Leh but the power cut delayed us by half an hour. With one bulb on inverter we managed to get ready, prepared tea for self and two thermos with us on small Kabson gas, loaded all luggage in car and pushed away by 435 hrs. During entire journey we never took food on any dhaba and were carrying 45 liter boiled water all the way from Pune. Where ever possible we recouped boiled water by boiling in 1 liter coffee maker and also used mineral water to some extent. We had a big box filled with all sorts of eatables which served the need for our lunch. Starting after breakfast at 900 to 1000 hrs, two stops of 15 minutes each for tea break and one stop of 30 minutes for lunch and driving till evening and dinner in hotel was our normal routine. Our lunch box carried dryfruits (roasted almonds, roasted cashewnuts, figs etc), Masala Khakra (prepared with wheat & gram flour), Poha chiwada, normal shev, palak shev, potato chiwada, bhavnagari shev, biscuits etc. We were carrying Rotimaker on which on some days we roasted bread so toast butter with jam was also available. So on road we were self sufficient about eatables.

After starting from Leh on Leh-Manali road and after sunrise at 600 hrs. 3 photos along the road --

By 630 hrs. we were 24km. away from Taglangala Pass, 2nd highest pass in Ladakh ( Changala Pass is of the same height & difficult also) and continued approaching Tanglangala --

At about 730 hrs. we were at Tanglangala Pass. 3 photos at the pass

And the day long journey to Kelong continues and my wife continued to take photo at some intervals. Now 6 photos along Leh Manali highway with time mentioned above each photo. At 8.10 hrs.

At 9.57 hrs.

At 9.58 hrs.

At 10.42 hrs.

At 10.50 hrs.

At 10.51 hrs.

We continued driving towards Lachungala Pass. Today I am using BSNL data card and uploading from Nashik so many small posts to come.

Re: Ladakh in WagonR at +63

Finally at 11.21 hrs. we were at Lachungala Pass. See the 4 names spoiling the Pass display stone. Very bad, Can't we avoid all this and do some thing which carries our name by others and not by self.

At Lachungala Pass

Continued driving and at 11.59 hrs. we were at Nakeela Pass

Along highway at 12.15 hrs.

Now the famous 21 Gata loops start at 12.28 hrs.

At 12.40 hrs. photo along highway

Gata loop is a full U turn with curves and S bends in between. We counted all and found 21 of them. The total continuous descend is 1522 ft. from 15302 ft. to 13780 ft. We took about half an hour to cross all 21 Gata loops. At one of the Gata loop at 12.42 hrs.

The end of 21 Gata loops was at 12.54 hrs.

Along the Leh Manali highway one bridge constructed by Border Road Organisation, the road makers on our border

At 1410 hrs we were 107 km. from Keylong

At 1515 hrs. we met with first bottleneck, a land slide being cleared by a dozer and were required to wait for about 40 minutes. In all we met with 3 more land slides upto Keylong and wasted more than 2 hours.

Now near Baralachala Pass at 15.35 hrs.

Along highway Suraj Tal 2 photo

Late evening we reached Keylong completely tired. We searched for a hotel in Keylong and after keeping required luggage in our room went to bed in 5 minutes and were fast asleep immediately. Now some compiled information of all passes at a glance. The tour over some of the worlds highest roads crossing Himalaya to Leh in the mountain kingdom of Ladakh started from Srinagar to Leh and finally to Manali and needed ascend & descend with crossing of several passes at an altitude ranging between 15000 to 18500 ft. Rough narrow roads at high altitude, water ponds with flowing water on roads, traffic jam due to vehicle accidents and land slides made the tour very very challenging and many unforeseen problems were encountered. The details of passes are compiled below. Name of Pass in Ladakh Altitude in ft. Description Khardung La 18380 Worlds highest motorable road, 39 Km.from Leh Taglang La 17582 Worlds second highest pass On Leh Manali highway Changala Pass 17580 On way to Pangong lake Lachulang La 16616 On Leh Manali highway Baralacha La 16042 On Leh Manali highway Nakeela Pass 15547 On Leh Manali highway Zingral Pass 15500 On way to Pangong lake 21 Gata Loops 15302 to 13780 On Leh - Manali highway 1522 ft. continuous descend.

Fotula Pass 13479 Highest point on Srinagar Leh highway. Rohtang Pass 13044 Tough pass on Leh Manali highway Zojila Pass 11575 Gateway to Ladakh, tough pass Chang La is actually the second highest and Taglang La is the third highest!

1. Re: Ladakh in WagonR at +63

Day 19th , 15th July 2010, Thursday, Keylong Manali Kulu 110km. After one night sleep at Keylong we started again towards Manali by 900hrs. Shortly we crossed one bridge constructed by Border Road Organisation and a photo of it.

Along Leh Manali road as we proceeded towards Manali more and more green nature started appearing. 5 photos taken between 930 to 1000 hrs.

We also captured photo of one waterfall along the highway at 1033 hrs.

Many bottlenecks due to ponds and flowing water on road were required to pass. Photos of two such bottlenecks crossed at 1043 hrs. and one more at 1120 hrs.

Now we are approaching Rohtang Pass and more in next post. At 12.36 hrs. we reached Rohtang Pass, the last one in our journey but difficult due to water ponds and flowing water on road and mainly due to land slides. At Rohtang Pass

After 1/2 hour we were on way to Manali by crossing this Rohtang pass

By 1332 hrs we were near one waterfall which was a tourist spot and many tourists from Manali had gathered there. 2 photos.

At 1405 hrs. we again started descending Rohtang pass and a big land slide caused us to wait for 4 hours. So nothing to do but to wait and observe nature as under and then start again for Manali.

After this bottleneck there was one more in Manali due to accident and late evening by 2000 hrs. we were in Kulu.

Re: Ladakh in WagonR at +63

We continued towards Chandigarh for about 15 km. and then my wife pointed out that going to Chandigarh in night and driving on winding roads between Kulu to Chandigarh would be dangerous. She was firm to return to Kulu and we came back to Kulu and stayed in Airport Inn hotel which was near airport and out of Kulu city. The decision to return proved to be correct as the road between Kulu to Chandigarh is a ghat road with many winding curves. We stayed in Kulu for one night and next day decided to stay for one more day so as to take rest. We were also relaxed by coming in plains at lower altitude. Then via Chandigarh we went to Delhi (485 km.) on 17 th July and stayed there for 2 days with our relatives. On 20th July from Delhi we were supposed to go to Udaipur via Jaipur. We changed our program and from Delhi went to Jodhpur via Jaipur (610 km.) and stayed with our relatives for one day. On 22nd July we started for Ankaleshwar (660km.) and stayed there overnight. On 23 rd July after driving 490 km. we were in Pune and safely returned to Home Sweet Home. On returning from Ladakh tour I came to know that Sindhu river runs along Leh and Leh also has Sindhu ghat. Sindhu river originates in Mount Kailash near Man sarovar and flows through Ladakh Dist. and then flows towards Pakistan. India name originates from Sindhu river and Mohan Jodaro & Hadappa civilisation flourished along Sindhu river . So as an Indian I wanted to visit the place but lost the oppurtunity even after going to Leh. Of course this was due to lack of above information. Anyway I enjoyed all other aspects of this adventure tour.