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Isabelle Gell Perfumery workshop MAKING YOUR OWN PERFUME

Participant booklet

Contact: Isabelle Gell 29 Brigg Drive First La e !essle !"#$ 9!G " ite% &i g%om 'el( )*2*$+ *,-99.- /ob0 *19#1,.*9*2 2mail( isabelle3lesparfumsisabelle04o0uk 5eb ( www0lesparfumsisabelle04o0uk Blog: http://lespa !"#s$%sa&elle'(o $p ess'co#

)AB*E OF CON)EN)+

5el4ome ote Perfumery ( a bit of history 7lfa4tory groups /etho%s a % raw materials /a ufa4turi g te4h i8ues 9tarti g your ow perfume 4reatio 9tarter kit :reati g a class%c o %ental pe !"#e ;l4ohol or 4arrier oil< :reati g a class%c Ea" $e cologne :reati g a Flo al ea" $e to%lette 2au %e Parfum a % 4o 4e trate% perfume :hilli g= filteri g a % %e4a ti g pro4ess :reati g a Ch,p e &ase List of rare a % e>pe sive oils

$ 6 1 9 ## #2 #$ #6 #. ##1 #, #9 2*

Copyright notice: Copyright notice: This booklet has been compiled by Isabelle Gell and is the intellectual property of the author. Reference made to other This booklet has been compiled by Isabelle Gell and is the intellectual property of the author. sources is mentioned whenever applicable. lease be aware that this booklet C!""#T be circulated on the Internet or Reference made to other sources is mentioned whenever applicable. lease be aware that this booklet through any other public means without the e$press written consent of the author. !ny use of this booklet without prior C!""#T be circulated on the Internet or through any other public means without the e$press written authorisation might lead to prosecution under the Intellectual property laws. consent of the author. !ny use of this booklet without prior authorisation will be sub%ect to legal action under the Intellectual property laws.
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Welco#e to the (o l$ o! nat" al pe !"#e , an$ to an e-c%t%ng an$ en$less .o" ne, to the scents/ I ha0e co#p%le$ th%s &oo1let !o ,o" to &e a&le to ca , on (%th ,o" nat" al pe !"#e c eat%on an$ a$0ent" e once ,o" ha0e g aspe$ the &as%cs (h%ch ,o" (%ll ha0e lea nt $" %ng the (o 1shop' It (%ll g%0e ,o" a e!e ence to go &ac1 to (hen ,o" $es%gn ,o" o(n ! ag ance' *%1e (%th an, lea n%ng c" 0e2 ,o" (%ll !ace o&stacles an$ so#e o! ,o" &len$s (%ll &e h"ge !a%l" es o e-cept%onal s"ccesses' C eat%ng a pe !"#e %s a co#ple- p ocess e3"% %ng a lot o! pat%ence' Pe !"#e , %s a $%!!e ent ga#e ! o# a o#athe ap, (h%ch %s a&o"t &len$%ng the co ect o%ls !o the ape"t%c p" poses' )hose &len$s "s"all, s#ell #e$%cal an$ $o not conta%n #o e than a !e( essent%al o%ls' Pe !"#es a e $%!!e ent' )he, can conta%n "p to 455 $%!!e ent o%ls an$ can ta1e #onths o ,ea s to pe !ect' En.o, ,o" .o" ne,/ F ag antl,2

Isabelle Gell Creative perfumer

NO)E: /y metho% of perfume?maki g is base% o #9 th 4e tury books a % tra%itio s0 7ther perfumers use more mo%er approa4hes a % ea4h perfumer has their ow @se4retsA to make their ow sig ature perfumes0 'he metho%s you will lear through my workshops might be %iffere t from what you woul% lear i Grasse or other workshops0 For e>ample= some perfumers pla4e a lot of fo4us o 4al4ulatio a % per4e tages for e>a4t pre4isio s0 5hereas we all have to use mathemati4s to e sure a goo% harmo y of otes i the perfume= I am a loyal follower of 2%mo % Bou% istska= who fo4use% o the ;rt of Perfumery a % is the famous 4reator of @Femme by Bo4hasA= @Diorissimo a % 2au 9auvage by DiorA0 !e sai% @A ''Perfumers are chemists no more than is the painter who manipulates chemical colors. In itself, composing a perfume has nothing to do with chemistry. The Compositeur must not let himself be influenced by systematic thoughts. nly by considering each odor by itself and in its rapport with the other odors, without any preconceived idea, will he ma!e the best use of it"

Copyright notice: This booklet has been compiled by Isabelle Gell and is the intellectual property of the author. Reference made to other sources is mentioned whenever applicable. lease be aware that this booklet C!""#T be circulated on the Internet or through any other public means without the e$press written consent of the author. !ny use of this booklet without prior authorisation will be sub%ect to legal action under the Intellectual property laws.
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4'

PERFUMERY: a &%t o! h%sto ,

Ant%3"%t,( origi of the term @perfumeA C Lati @parfumareA mea i g @through the smokeAD 2gyptia s were usi g fumigatio to ho our their Go%s a % go%%esses0 'he first k ow perfume is 4alle% @KYP6IA whi4h is a ble % of myrrh= Eu iper berry= fe ugreek= pista4hio= rosemary= mi t0 Perfumes were ma%e of resi s a % fats whi4h= whe melte% were perfumi g the hair a % fa4e0 'hese te4h i8ues were the importe% by the Greeks a % the Boma s whi4h improve% the i gre%ie ts a % use% them i religious rituals as well as everywhere i their houses be4ause they were 4o vi 4e% about the me%i4al properties of perfumes0 Pe !"#es as we k ow them ow go ba4k to the ;rabs who i ve te% the @alembi4A= allowi g %istillatio of pla ts a % givi g way to ew s4e ts i 4lu%i g musk0 9o perfumery is ot Fre 4h origi ally0 But the Fre 4h are those who tur e% it i to a tra%e a % lau 4he% the mo%er perfumery0 7" %ng the Rena%ssance t%#es2 where arts flourishe%= all the Fuee s a % &i gs i 2urope were 4ompeti g agai st ea4h other to %is4over beauty se4rets0 Foreig al4hemists starte% to ope shops i Paris a % perfume% gloves were offere% o sale0 7 e must remember that o e of the reaso s was the ste 4h whi4h ee%e% to be 4overe%0 Got as roma ti4 as we 4a e>pe4t but perfumes were bor out of e4essity0 It %s "n$e the +"n K%ng *o"%s 8I9 :4;th cent" ,< that perfumery be4ame a tre % a % a big busi ess a % apart from perfume gloves= fragra 4es a % s4e te% pow%ers were pro%u4e%0 /aster glovers were allowe% to take the offi4ial title of @maHtres parfumeurs et ga tiersA )still a famous perfume bra % from Paris to%ay+ a % a tra%e stru4ture was orga ise% a % establishe% i Grasse to grow the pla ts a % flowers ee%e% i 4lu%i g 4ar atio = violet= Easmi e= lave %er a % rose0 In the 4=th cent" ,2 fashio be4ame the ame of the game with every woma followi g the 4o%es of se%u4tio 0 'he :ourt of &i g Louis IJ was 4alle% the @perfume 4ourtA a % it was ma %atory to use a ew fragra 4e every%ay0 /arie?; toi ette a % Louis IJI were at the 4e tre of this fashio 0 Famous perfumerAs houses be4ame more establishe% with ames su4h as Gell FrKres= the first perfumers of /arie?; toi ette a % Lea ?Louis Fargeo who took over from Gell FrKres0 Fari a i ve te% the first @2au %e :olog eA i #1$20 Napoleon an$ >oseph%ne i the #9th 4e tury spe t fortu es o perfumes a % Losephi e i tro%u4e% e>oti4 fragra 4es with 4i amo = va illa %ue to her :reole origi s0 !owever= at the same time= the roma ti4 tre % ha% appeare% a % the British fo4use% o light= femi i e a % %is4reet s4e ts0 British perfumery ha% to remai %is4reet i terms of perfume 4reatio %ue to a Parliame t ;4t of #11* establishi g that @a y marriage base% o se%u4tio a % o abuse of stro g s4e ts= make?up= high heels a % 4orsets woul% fall u %er the law agai st wit4hes a % low morality a % be %e4lare% voi%A0 !owever= :ree%= establishe% i #1-*= be4ame the perfumer of Fuee Ji4toria0 At the en$ o! the 4?th cent" ,2 the first sy theti4 fragra 4es appeare% to target more mi%%le 4lass wome 0 Gew otes were %is4overe% su4h as va illi = 4oumari )toba44o pipe smell+= he%io e )Easmi e smell

Copyright notice: This booklet has been compiled by Isabelle Gell and is the intellectual property of the author. Reference made to other sources is mentioned whenever applicable. lease be aware that this booklet C!""#T be circulated on the Internet or through any other public means without the e$press written consent of the author. !ny use of this booklet without prior authorisation will be sub%ect to legal action under the Intellectual property laws.
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repro%u4tio + a % the first al%ehy%es )4itrus otes with a a imalisti4 ba4kgrou %+0 F o# 4?55 to the 4??5@s2 famous perfumersA houses proliferate% with !ele a Bubi stei a % 2liMabeth ;r%e 0 ;l%ehy%es were use% i all perfumes to give e ergy a % fresh ess0 ;fter the 2 % worl% war= Dior lau 4he% @4hara4ter fragra 4esA= a%apti g to me or wome As ow style0 Desig er fragra 4es be4ame popular0 I the #9.*As= the first 2au> %e toilette for me appeare% with vetiver a % lave %er use% e>te sively i the groomi g routi e )Jetiver by Guerlai was a popular o e+ a % the first ;meri4a fragra 4e was lau 4he% by 2stee Lau%er0 :ha el o0. be4ame the se>y perfume= promote% by /aryli /o roe who %e4lare% that @she 4oul% ot sleep without o0.A0 I the -*As a % 1*As= the hippy moveme t gave way to the use of pat4houli a % the sear4h for e lighte me t is at the origi of @2au> fraH4hes )fresh waters+A0 'he late 1*As a % ,*As years were marke% by @lifestyleA fragra 4es a % ew otes were 4reate% su4h as mari e otes a % fruity otes0 F o# 4??5 to A5552 perfume tre %s have bee marke% by wars= ;ID9 a % a ee% to get away from the materialisti4 worl% a % to retur to Gature0 Fragra 4es evoke% sea= earth= pla t a % flowers a % refo4us o the basi4s( earth= fire= water a % wi %0 7 the other ha %= perfumes li k more to 4hil%hoo% memories a % te % to li k the se se of taste to the se se of smell with 4reamy sweet otes of va illa= 4aramel= a % 4ho4olate0 C" entl,2 the tre %s are %ivi%e% i 2 4ategories(

o F ag ances !o the ,o"th an$ the co##e c%all, o %ente$ cl%ent with @CE*EBRI)Y PERFUME+A whi4h are usually
4reate% very rapi%ly a % fo4us more o the pa4kagi g a % marketi g tha the 8uality of the fragra 4e0 'hey are 4reate% i as little time as # week a % their lifespa is short0 'he mai obEe4tive is @maki g mo eyA by havi g it e %orse% by a 4elebrity0

o F ag ances !o the ecoBc%t%Cens su4h as @9IN)AGE# a % @UNI+E8# fragra 4es as well as fragra 4es base% o the
e>ploratio of orie tal a % floral otes for me 0 'hose fragra 4es are 4alle% @florie talA a % are usually appre4iate% both by me a % wome 0

'he @vi tageA fragra 4es are limite% e%itio s a % are treate% like a goo% wi e i a goo% year0 'hose i 4lu%e NA)URA* PERFUME+ i 4lu%i g the retur of +O*I7 PERFUME+ ma%e of a ble % of fat i gre%ie ts su4h as beeswa> a % EoEoba a % prese te% i beautiful a % lu>urious 4o tai ers0 'here is a tre % towar%s re%is4overy of real s4e t se satio s of gree forest= rai forest= spi4es= usi g o ly esse tial oils= absolutes a % resi s %istille% or e>tra4te% through 4lassi4 alembi40 Gatural perfumers are i the @ i4he marketA of perfumery with 4lie ts tur i g to them to have their ow bespoke fragra 4e ma%e whi4h will ot be fou % o the high street0 'he Gatural perfumery tre % has bee growi g to the e>te t that big perfumerAs houses a % perfume 4riti4s are ow re4og isi g Gatural perfumers as 4ompetitors a % as maEor players i their i %ustry )whereas a few years ago= we were see as @hippiesAN+0 Be4e tly the famous Forbes /agaMi e has pla4e% o e atural perfumer= /a %y ;ftel= as o e of the 1 biggest bespoke perfumers i their #** list0

Copyright notice: This booklet has been compiled by Isabelle Gell and is the intellectual property of the author. Reference made to other sources is mentioned whenever applicable. lease be aware that this booklet C!""#T be circulated on the Internet or through any other public means without the e$press written consent of the author. !ny use of this booklet without prior authorisation will be sub%ect to legal action under the Intellectual property laws.
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Copyright notice: This booklet has been compiled by Isabelle Gell and is the intellectual property of the author. Reference made to other sources is mentioned whenever applicable. lease be aware that this booklet C!""#T be circulated on the Internet or through any other public means without the e$press written consent of the author. !ny use of this booklet without prior authorisation will be sub%ect to legal action under the Intellectual property laws.
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A'O*FAC)ORY GROUP+
Fragra 4es are 4lassifie% i olfa4tory )or perfume+ families= ea4h of them havi g a sub?family(

Copyright notice: This booklet has been compiled by Isabelle Gell and is the intellectual property of the author. Reference made to other sources is mentioned whenever applicable. lease be aware that this booklet C!""#T be circulated on the Internet or through any other public means without the e$press written consent of the author. !ny use of this booklet without prior authorisation will be sub%ect to legal action under the Intellectual property laws.
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O*FAC)ORY GROUP+ :A*+O CA**E7 DPERFUME FAMI*IE+@< WOMEN MEN

Ch,p e
Base% o a woo%y= mossy= floral a44or%= whi4h 4a i 4lu%e leathery or fruity otes as well= 4hypre perfumes have a ri4h a % li geri g s4e t0 :reate% by :oty i #9#10 Base% o a a44or% of 4istus lab%a um= oakmoss= pat4houli a % bergamot0 Jery 4lassi4 a % se>y0 2>amples( Fuel for Life :olog e for wome by DieselD /itsouko by Guerlai D & owi g by 2stee Lau%erD :uir %e Bussie by :ha el +UBFAMI*IE+: Floral )rose a % Easmi e+ a % fruity )pea4h+

A o#at%c
; a44or% base% o o e or more aromati4 herbs= su4h as sage or rosemary0 2>amples( Fleur %u /Ole :olog e by GaultierD Fuel for Life :olog e for me by Diesel +UBFAMI*IE+: ? Fo"ge e acco $ )lave %er= gera ium= oakmoss+= ? A3"at%c )4e%ar= fir= musk= bla4k4urra t+= ? F esh )rosewoo%= vetiver+= ? R"st%c )pi e ee%le= gi ger+

C%t "s
:itrus oils= k ow to perfumers as P!esperi%iaP= are the key eleme ts i this family that i 4lu%es all Peau> fraH4hesP0 2>amples( Jerbe as of Prove 4e by Lo /alo eD 2au %e :olog e Impriale by Guerlai +UBFAMI*IE+: ;romati4 )thyme= tarrago = basil= mi t+

C%t "s
'he light a % fresh 4hara4ter of 4itrus otes su4h as bergamot= ora ge= lemo = petit grai a % ta geri e is e ri4he% by aromati4= woo%y a % spi4y a44or%s0 2>amples( 2au %e :itrus by /oli ar%D :& 7 e by :alvi &lei +UBFAMI*IE+: ;romati4 )to ka= iris+

Flo al
'he large floral family i 4lu%es all fragra 4es with a flower or bou8uet as their mai theme0 2>amples( Loy by PatouD LAa%ore by DiorD Blo %e by Jersa4eD :ha el o0.D ;marige by Give 4hy +UBFAMI*IE+: Gree )galba um+= rose violet= tuberose= woo%y ;l%ehy%es( ; imal= pow%ery or slightly woo%y

O %ental
9pi4es= woo% a % va illa harmo iMe to 4reate i te se a % sophisti4ate% perfumes0 2>amples( 2lega 4e by La4osteD I timately Be4kham Gight for himD 'oba44o Ja ille by 'om For%D Ji tage 2%itio by &e Mo +UBFAMI*IE+: Fougere= spi4y= woo%yD florie tal

O %ental
5here warmth meets se suality0 /usk= va illa a % pre4ious woo%s with a tou4h of tropi4al flowers a % spi4e0 2>amples( 9halimar by Guerlai D /ust by :artierD /agie Goire by La 4QmeD Bal R Jersailles by Lea DespreM +UBFAMI*IE+: B Floral )gar%e ia+= ? 9pi4y )4i amo = utmeg= 4love+= ? Ja illa= sa %alwoo%= 4e%ar B Flo %ental( spi4es= resi s a % flowers

Woo$,
'his family bri gs together perfumes whose key a44or% is base% o woo%y s4e ts su4h as sa %alwoo%= pat4houli= 4e%ar or vetiver0 2>amples( ;%ve ture by Davi%offD 2#2 9plash /e by :aroli e !erreraD Passio Boise by Frapi D Jersa4e pour !omme +UBFAMI*IE+: ? A3"at%c )4offee= 4ar%amom+= ? A o#at%c )thyme= rosemary= sage+= ? Ch,p e )oakmoss= lab%a um+ ? Flo al #"s1 )oakmoss= violet= agar woo%= pat4houli+ ? +p%c, )pepper= 4love= 4i amo +

$ource%

&mo&.com

Copyright notice: This booklet has been compiled by Isabelle Gell and is the intellectual property of the author. Reference made to other sources is mentioned whenever applicable. lease be aware that this booklet C!""#T be circulated on the Internet or through any other public means without the e$press written consent of the author. !ny use of this booklet without prior authorisation will be sub%ect to legal action under the Intellectual property laws.
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E' ME)6O7+ AN7 RAW MA)ERIA*+


5hether atural or sy theti4= raw materials i perfumery are esse 4es of flowers= pla ts= spi4es= herbs= a imal or material whi4h= through their 4ombi atio a % 4hemi4al sy ergy= 4reate a s4e t0 :hemi4al perfumers use up to 6*** %iffere t types of esse 4es a % the stu%y of 4o ve tio al perfumery takes up to 6 years= fo4usi g o 4hemistry as well as labelli g= marketi g= health a % safety0 Gatural perfumery %oes ot use as ma y esse 4es as the fo4us is o the 4hemistry of atural esse tial oils0 'he perfumerAs @paletteA 4o tai s appro>imately .** essent%al o%ls= a&sol"tes a % conc etes0 9ome 4ommer4ial fragra 4es still 4o tai esse tial oils although i mi imal 8ua tities %ue to their high 4ost a % low yiel% )for i sta 4e= it takes 6 to es of rose petals to obtai # kg of rose esse tial oil0 !e 4e the 4urre t 4ost of S1*** per kg+0 Gowa%ays= most of the perfumes sol% i stores are 4ompose% of sy theti4ally repro%u4e% fragra t otes as mass?market woul% make it impossible to sell with a profit0 Gatural perfumers= o the other ha %= %o ot mass?market a % are thus i a positio to pri 4ipally fo4us o the 8uality of the fragra 4es a % use o ly atural esse 4es0 5hether atural or ot= a perfume is 4ompose% of otes ble %e% together a % 4reati g a ew s4e t whi4h 4a be of a y of the olfa4tory families0 'hese are( o )op notes( these 4orrespo % to the first otes you smell whe the perfume bottle is ope e% or the fragra 4e put o the ski 0 ;lso referre% as @silageA to e>plai that it is i the @wake ofA= leavi g a s4e t trail behi %0 'hose otes are volatile a % %o ot stay or last lo g0 'hey are usually 4itrus otes su4h as bergamot= lemo = ora ge= grapefruitD gree otes su4h as galba um a % for a floral perfume 4a be flowers su4h as lave %er= yla g yla g= gar%e ia0

o M%$$le notes )also 4alle% @heartA otes+( these represe t the !2;B' of
the fragra 4e a % usually have a lo g lasti g power as their 4ombi atio has bee worke% for lo gevity0 'hese are the otes whi4h will still 4ome up after the top otes have %isappeare% a % whe the base otes have appeare%0 'hey 4a be either !lo al notes su4h as yla g yla g= rose= Easmi e= 4ar atio = iris= tuberose= osma thus= lily= gar%e ia= gera iumD sp%ce notes su4h as 4love= gi ger= utmeg= 4ar%amom= 4i amo = 4oria %er= pepper or g een notes su4h as all the aromati4 herbs i 4lu%i g rosemary= thyme= peppermi t as well as pi e a % Eu iper berry0

o Base notes: 'hese are the last otes o e smells whe the rest of the fragra 4e has go e0 ;lso 4alle% the @7RY7OWNA otes whi4h o44ur
withi o e hour a % are the fi al 4hara4teristi4 of the fragra 4e with whi4h o e must be 4omfortable si 4e they stay lo ger0 'hey are very importa t i a 4ompositio as they a4t as a fi>ative of the whole fragra 4e a % 4a bala 4e or e ha 4e some of the heart otes0 'he base is ge erally 4ompose% of (oo$, otes= to&acco otes= #"s1 otes= leathe otes= an%#al otes a % &alsa#%c otes )e>amples are vetiver= pat4houli= rosewoo%= sa %alwoo%= !o woo%= Peru balsam= to ka bea = myrrh= oakmoss= 4e%arwoo%= va illa= be Moi a % for the a imal otes= 4astoreum= 4ivet= hyra4eum= %eer musk a % ambergris0 Gowa%ays= all the a imal otes are sy theti4 although we still fi % Copyright notice: This booklet has been compiled by Isabelle Gell and is the intellectual property of the author. Reference made to other sources is mentioned whenever applicable. lease be aware that this booklet C!""#T be circulated on the Internet or through any other public means without the e$press written consent of the author. !ny use of this booklet without prior authorisation will be sub%ect to legal action under the Intellectual property laws.
Page 9

atural 4astoreum= hyra4eum a % ambergris si 4e their e>tra4tio pro4ess %oes ot i volve a y harm o a imals )those are i gre%ie ts aturally e>4rete% by the a imal a % 4olle4te% for perfumery purposes+0 )he co#&%nat%on o! these notes c eate a ! ag ance a % it is the per4e tage of 4o 4e tratio i the al4ohol or oil whi4h will %etermi e the type a % stre gth of the fragra 4e( o Concent ate$ o p" e pe !"#e: " til the #9.*As= perfumes were available as @e>tra4tsA0 ; e>tra4t is usually 4ompose% of up to 6*T 4o 4e tratio %ilute% i al4ohol or vegetable oil0 'o%ay= maEor perfumersA houses %o ot pro%u4e e>tra4ts0 'hese 4a o ly be fou % from atural perfumers0 Ea" $e pa !"#: 'ypi4ally 4o tai s #. to 2*T fragra 4e i al4ohol0 'he s4e t is ri4her a % usually has a lo ger lasti g power0 5ome use it for spe4ial o44asio s0 Ea" $e to%lette: 5he the fragra 4e is %ilute% with %istille% water i the al4ohol= it is referre% as a DEa"A0 'he 2au %e toilette is the most 4lassi4al type of fragra 4e= with the pote tial to be wor easily every%ay a % o a y o44asio 0 'he 4o 4e tratio is typi4ally , to #*T0 A!te sha0e for me is part of the 2au %e toilette group0 Ea" $e Cologne is a lighter= fresher fragra 4e= usually aime% at refreshi g %uri g the %ay0 Its ame %erives from the 4ity of :olog e )&Ul + i Germa y where the Italia perfumer= Lea ?/arie Fari a 4reate% a ew fragra 4e ame% after this 4ity where he ha% Eust move% at the begi i g of the #,th 4e tury0 'his 2au %e :olog e was the bought by the /uehle s family who %e4i%e% to ame it @F;44A= 4orrespo %i g to the house umber of their resi%e 4e i :olog e= o the eve of the Fre 4h revolutio 0 ; 2au %e :olog e typi4ally 4o tai s $ to .T fragra 4e0 +plash for me is part of the 2au %e :olog e group0 Ea" ! aGche :! esh (ate < is a very mo%er versio of fragra 4es0 It 4o tai s about $T 4o 4e tratio a % its purpose is a light= youthful a % easy?to?wear fragra 4e that 4a be spraye% over a % over agai 0

Perfumes @sig aturesA are base% o @a44or%sA= a harmo ious ble % of several i gre%ie ts that e4ho o e a other( 'he maEor a44or% i the fragra 4e sets its 4hara4ter( ; e>ample is 9halimar by Guerlai whose theme is a 4lassi4 orie tal a44or% base% o Easmi e?be Moi ?lab%a um?pat4houli a % musk0 'his is why perfume maki g is ofte asso4iate% to @musi4al 4ompositio A as the harmo y of otes 4reates a masterpie4e0

Copyright notice: This booklet has been compiled by Isabelle Gell and is the intellectual property of the author. Reference made to other sources is mentioned whenever applicable. lease be aware that this booklet C!""#T be circulated on the Internet or through any other public means without the e$press written consent of the author. !ny use of this booklet without prior authorisation will be sub%ect to legal action under the Intellectual property laws.
Page 10

F' MANUFAC)URING )EC6NIHUE+: ; MAIN ME)6O7+


2sse tial oils a % esse 4es %erive from the e>tra4tio of the esse 4e of a pla t= a flower= leaves= woo% or a resi aimi g at repro%u4i g the 4hara4teristi4s of these 4ompo e ts either to be use% i perfumery or as a flavouri g aroma a % for me%i4i al purposes0 'he e>tra4tio metho%s vary from tra%itio al o es pro%u4i g esse tial oils to mo%er a % a%va 4e% o es usi g 4hemi4al pro4esses pro%u4i g sy theti4 mole4ules0

4' E-p ess%on


2>pressio is the pro4ess use% to e>tra4t the esse 4e from 4itrus fruit0 'he fruit bark is separate% a % pier4e% a % me4ha i4ally presse% )4ol% pro4ess+0 'he e>tra4t is settle% the filtere% o wet paper to separate the water parts from the oils0

A' 7%st%llat%on
Distillatio allows the separatio of soli%s a % all the volatile 4ompo e ts through steam0 ;lembi4s are use% to heat the ble % of s4e te% 4ompo e ts a % water0 'he water steam moves the s4e te% eleme ts through a %istillatio 4olum a % are the 4oole% off a % fi ally 4olle4te% i a vase0 5ith settleme t= water is separate% from the eleme ts ame% @esse 4esA0

E' +ol0ent e-t act%on


'his metho% 4o sists of a%%i g a solve t i the vegetal 4ompo e ts0 'his solve t will e>tra4t the s4e ts0 'ra%itio ally 4alle% @en!le" ageA= this was %o e @4ol%A with fats su4h as lar%0 'he result was poma%es or s4e te% oils0 'hese fats have to%ay bee repla4e% by volatile solve ts su4h as he>a e= etha ol or 4arbo %io>i%e whi4h are heate%0 'he = they are elimi ate% through evaporatio = isolati g a wa>?like matter 4alle% @conc eteA0 'he 4o 4rete is ble %e% i al4ohol= heate%= 4oole% off a % purifie%0 7 4e the al4ohol has evaporate%= the result is a @a&sol"teA0

F' En!le" age


:ol% e fleurage is the most a 4ie t metho% whi4h is very rarely use% to%ay %ue to the le gthy time it takes a % the low yiel% it pro%u4es0 It was tra%itio ally use% for fragile flowers su4h as ora ge flowers= tuberose a % Easmi e0 Petals were ha % 4olle4te% a % pla4e% i fi e layers o a imal fats sprea% over a glass plate )4alle% 4hassis+0 2very 26 or 6, hours= petals were remove% a % repla4e% with fresh o es0 'hese operatio s 4o ti ue% u til saturatio of the fats0 'he resulti g s4e te% poma%e was s4rape% a % washe% with wi e spirit to pro%u4e i fusio s0

I' COA e-t act%on


:72 is pla4e% u %er pressure with a temperature below 6*V: a % goes through various stages u til it be4omes li8ui% a % be4omes a solve t as li8ui% as gas0 'his @softA e>tra4tio metho% is e>4elle t to obtai pure olfa4tory Copyright notice: This booklet has been compiled by Isabelle Gell and is the intellectual property of the author. Reference made to other sources is mentioned whenever applicable. lease be aware that this booklet C!""#T be circulated on the Internet or through any other public means without the e$press written consent of the author. !ny use of this booklet without prior authorisation will be sub%ect to legal action under the Intellectual property laws.
Page 11

substa 4es with low volatility a % works well o %rie% raw materials su4h as woo%s0 'he :72 is re4y4le% i si%e the system a % %oes ot pollute0 It is a o ? harmful gas whi4h 4a be release% i the atmosphere0

J' +,nthet%c #olec"les


;fter ma y years of resear4h= o 4e a ew mole4ule has bee sele4te%= very sophisti4ate% metho%s are impleme te% to pro%u4e it i big a % stable 8ua tities0 'his ma ufa4turi g pro4ess 4a be le gthy a % i 4lu%e various operatio s i 4lu%i g 4hloratio = %istillatio = hy%roge atio = etherifi4atio W It is the 4omple>ity of 4hemi4al rea4tio s 4ombi e% with the various stages ee%e% whi4h i flue 4e the 4osts of a sy theti4 raw material0

;' 6ea$space techn%3"e :o Nat" eP %ntK<


!ea%spa4e is a re4e t te4h i8ue allowi g to @4aptureA the esse 4e of a pla t without the ee% to pro%u4e this pla t e>te sively= parti4ularly for pla ts i remote 4ou tries su4h as 4ertai spi4es or fruit0 It is also use% to 4apture the esse 4e of some pla ts whi4h aturally smell gorgeous but that 4a ot be e>tra4te% through the more tra%itio al metho%s as they will ot give up their smell0 'hese i 4lu%e flowers like Lily of the Jalley or violet0 'he esse 4e is 4apture% %ire4tly from the fresh flower= a % the resear4he% i laboratories with various e>tra4ts 4reate%0 'hese are assesse% agai st gaseous 4hromatography a % mass spe4trometry0 7 4e these %ata have bee a alyse%= the subtle a % 4omple> s4e t is re4o stru4te%0

Copyright notice: This booklet has been compiled by Isabelle Gell and is the intellectual property of the author. Reference made to other sources is mentioned whenever applicable. lease be aware that this booklet C!""#T be circulated on the Internet or through any other public means without the e$press written consent of the author. !ny use of this booklet without prior authorisation will be sub%ect to legal action under the Intellectual property laws.
Page 12

I' +)AR)ING YOUR OWN PERFUME CREA)ION


Ing e$%ents # 4lea spa4e # otebook a % pe labels pipettes # measureme t 4yli %er )#* ml or higher+ Bla k 4opies of perfume pyrami% # set of top otes esse tial oilsX # set of heart otes esse tial oilsX # set of base otes esse tial oilsX :arrier oil )EoEoba or fra4tio ate% 4o4o ut+ or al4ohol ; set of $* ml amber or 4lear glass bottles Dry i sta t 4offee i a 4up to 4lear your ostrils 7% ect%ons You %o At ee% to have a y k owle%ge o 4hemistry i or%er to 4reate a perfume but you %o ee% a high %egree of i tuitio a % a se se of smell0 atural

You also ee% to k ow those oils whi4h have to be ha %le% with 4autio %ue to their photose sitivity pote tial or their pote 4y as you will have to use their spari gly i or%er to avoi% a y allergi4 rea4tio s0 You 4a fi % i teresti g i formatio about the pote tial rea4tio s of some esse tial oils o the followi g website( http://((('a o#a#e$%cal'co# ;s a refere 4e basis= a bala 4e% G;'"B;L perfume is usually 4ompose% of #( ? E5BF5L top notes ? A5BI5L hea t notes ? 45BE5L &ase notes 9ome perfumers might argue that the highest per4e tage shoul% be the base otes0 'his really %epe %s o your liki gs as too ma y base otes might give a heavy a % woo%y s4e t= ot appre4iate% by everyo e0 I the e>t paragraph= I will give you a %rops or millilitres0 e>ample of what this mea s whe usi g

IMPOR)AN): WRI)E 7OWN E9ERY)6ING INC*U7ING ANY C6ANGE YOU MAKE IN )6E FU)URE' REMEMBER/: YOU CAN A*WAY+ A77 BU) NE9ER REMO9E +O A77 NO)E+ 4 BY ONE AN7 *E) )6EM +I) BEFORE A77ING MORE' * See the table of notes in the starter kit page to eter!ine those notes

##

:ommer4ial perfumers state that the per4e tage is 2.T top otes= $*T heart otes a % .*T base otes0 I atural perfumes= I fou % that there was a ee% for more top otes0 !owever= the per4e tages 4a be altere% a44or%i g to the oils you use as lo g as you try to keep a bala 4e0

Copyright notice: This booklet has been compiled by Isabelle Gell and is the intellectual property of the author. Reference made to other sources is mentioned whenever applicable. lease be aware that this booklet C!""#T be circulated on the Internet or through any other public means without the e$press written consent of the author. !ny use of this booklet without prior authorisation will be sub%ect to legal action under the Intellectual property laws.
Page 13

J' +)AR)ER KI)


'he i gre%ie ts to make perfumes 4a be very 4ostly0 I a%vise to start with the basi4 list below0 7 4e you have got a48uai te% to how the oils ble % together= you 4a the a%% the more e>pe sive o es to 4reate fabulous perfumes= fragra 4es= 4a %les a % a y pro%u4t i whi4h you wa t a s4e t0 I also use esse tial oils a lot i my 4ooki g0 'his is where I fi % my i spiratio 0 Lust thi kN For i sta 4e= basil a % lemo or 4ar%amom a % 4offee are great i foo% a % %ri ks0 5he you e>perie 4e= try to fi % your i spiratio somewhere0 It 4a be your gar%e ( observe how some flowers seem to blossom more e>t to some rather tha others0
)OP NO)E+ 6EAR) NO)E+ BA+E NO)E+

Pet%tg a%n Be ga#ot +age Cha#o#%le *e#on *e#ong ass *%#e F an1%ncense G ape! "%t Gal&an"# *a0en$e O ange

P%ne Rose )h,#e Peppe #%nt Ylang ,lang C%nna#on Ca $a#o# Co %an$e >"n%pe &e , Ge an%"# G%nge >as#%ne N"t#eg

Patcho"l% Peppe BenCo%n Rose(oo$ +an$al(oo$ 9et%0e M, h Oa1#oss Ce$a (oo$ Clo0e &"$ O %s *a&$an"#

; other e>ample is that you %o At fi % gar%e ia e>t to lave %er i the tropi4s0 You 4a try mi>i g them together but you will oti4e that lave %er te %s to be a flower of its ow a % to take over0 If you are goi g to mi> them together= wat4h your 8ua tities0

"lso heart notes

"lso top notes

Copyright notice: This booklet has been compiled by Isabelle Gell and is the intellectual property of the author. Reference made to other sources is mentioned whenever applicable. lease be aware that this booklet C!""#T be circulated on the Internet or through any other public means without the e$press written consent of the author. !ny use of this booklet without prior authorisation will be sub%ect to legal action under the Intellectual property laws.
Page 14

;' CREA)ING A C*A++IC ORIEN)A* PERFUME


Ing e$%ents 2* %rops bergamot #. %rops lemo - %rops yla g yla g #2 %rops rose #. %rops pat4houli #. %rops sa %alwoo% $ %rops :e%arwoo% # %rop va illa #. ml EoEoba oil 7ptio al( 2 %rops agar woo% 7% ect%ons ),p%call,2 A5 $ ops M 4 #l If we use the bala 4e% perfume basis ).*T top otes= $*T heart otes= 2*T base otes+ the total umber of %rops i this e>ample is #** i0e0 . ml Z '7P G7'29 Bergamot [ lemo [ yla g [ rose C .$T Z !2;B' G7'29 Pat4houli [ sa %alwoo% [ 4e%arwoo% C $$T Z B;92 G7'29 Fra ki 4e se [ myrrh [ va illa C #6T 'otal C #**T ;lthough the top otes are less a % the heart otes are more= the bala 4e is still observe%0 Yo" can %nc ease2 $ec ease o a$$ ,o" !a0o" %te essent%al o%ls to th%s &ase' Fo %nstance2 %! ,o"@$ athe ha0e a #o e !lo al hea t2 then ,o" (%ll ha0e e%the to a$$ one o! the top !lo al notes %n the hea t too o anothe one o! ,o" cho%ce' Yo" co"l$ a$$ 45 $ ops o! ,lang &"t %n o $e !o the pe !"#e to &e &alance$2 ,o" then nee$ to %nc ease the 3"ant%t, o! one o se0e al o! the top notes' 'he @silageA of the perfume i0e0 what you smell whe you ope the bottle is a ble % of 4itrus a % flowers0 It gives pla4e to a woo%y orie tal heart whi4h e %s with a s4e t of i 4e se a % va illa0 'his is what will remai the lo gest0 I or%er to e sure a lasti g s4e t= we have a%%e% $$T of ble % i the EoEoba oil0 I the e>t 4hapter= we work out the per4e tages to ble % your base with a 4arrier oil or al4ohol0 To make a big &uantity' %ust multiply the number of drops by the &uantity desired. #ver () ml' I suggest you start using millilitres as a reference' bearing in mind that the *) drops to + ml is only a guide as some oils ,absolute or resin ones- are thicker so you might have to increase the percentage. .ome perfumers use grams and in the /.' they use cups but it depends on what you feel comfortable with.

Copyright notice: This booklet has been compiled by Isabelle Gell and is the intellectual property of the author. Reference made to other sources is mentioned whenever applicable. lease be aware that this booklet C!""#T be circulated on the Internet or through any other public means without the e$press written consent of the author. !ny use of this booklet without prior authorisation will be sub%ect to legal action under the Intellectual property laws.
Page 15

=' A*CO6O* OR CARRIER OI*N


9o ow= you have prepare% your base a % you wa t to 4reate your fi al perfume0 First= you ee% to %etermi e what you wa t it to be(

; ; ; ; ; ;

2au %e :olog e 2au %e toilette 2au %e parfum pure perfume soli% perfume aftershave

'he = you must %e4i%e whether you wa t it i al4ohol or oil0 I the e>t paragraph= we are goi g to %is4uss ea4h possibility a % work out the per4e tages ee%e% a44or%i g to your prefere 4es0 But first letAs talk about the al4ohol0 ;l4ohol makes it easier to fi> the perfume o the ski a % also a4ts as a preservative= allowi g the perfume to have a lo ger shelf life0 5hereas i Fra 4e a % ma y 2uropea 4ou tries= it is ge erally 8uite easy to get a #** ml bottle of 9*T al4ohol from the 4hemistAs 4ou ter= i the "&= regulatio s make it e>tremely har% to obtai al4ohol a % the o ly available o es are grai al4ohol su4h as vo%ka0 Gothi g preve ts you from tryi g with grape al4ohol su4h as :og a4 but the prese 4e of sugar i those will make it more %iffi4ult to fi ish the fragra 4e0 For your homema%e perfumes= I re4omme % usi g vo%ka at a mi imum of 61T volume0 'he higher the volume= the easier it will be to 4reate your perfume0 You might be able to obtai a small #** ml bottle of 9*T al4ohol from a %o4tor or G!9 worker if you k ow a y or otherwise= if you %e4i%e to make a busi ess out of it= you 4a re8uest a li4e se from !/ :ustoms a % 2>4ise but the you ee% a spe4ial storage pla4e for health a % safety regulatio s0 9ome al4ohol li4e se% %istributors %o pro%u4e perfumerAs al4ohol at 96T volume whi4h is %e ature% al4ohol use% by perfumers0 'he more straightforwar% way is to go ba4k to the ol% system of usi g 4arrier oils0 'he ; 4ie ts use% olive oil but i the mo%er %ays= EoEoba or fra4tio ate% 4o4o ut oils are use% %ue to their lo g shelf life as they are re ow e% for their atural a tio>i%a t properties0 ;lmo % oil is also a i4e alter ative but it is re4omme %e% to a%% some Jitami 2 i this type of 4arrier oil0 'he beauty of oils is that they %o ot alter the smell of your ble % a % te % to last lo ger o your ski as they pe etrate through the ski upper layers0

Copyright notice: This booklet has been compiled by Isabelle Gell and is the intellectual property of the author. Reference made to other sources is mentioned whenever applicable. lease be aware that this booklet C!""#T be circulated on the Internet or through any other public means without the e$press written consent of the author. !ny use of this booklet without prior authorisation will be sub%ect to legal action under the Intellectual property laws.
Page 16

?' CREA)ING A C*A++IC EAU 7E CO*OGNE :NAPO*EON<


@2auA mea s water i Fre 4h0 !owever= a ge ui e 2au %e :olog e %oes ot have water0 'he maEor %iffere 4e betwee a 2au %e :olog e a % a Perfume is the per4e tage of al4ohol use% with the ble %0 I a utshell= the more al4ohol= the lighter a % the less lasti g the ble % will be0 'his is why some fragra 4es are fit for eve i gs= others for worki g a % others Eust for %aily use i or%er to freshe up0 7fte = the 2au %e :olog e is re ame% @;fter shaveA for me although ma y so? 4alle% aftershave fragra 4es also 4o tai wit4h haMel )!amamelis water+= re ow e% for its soothi g properties agai st raMor bur 0 Ing e$%ents #2 %rops petitgrai 1 %rops 4lary sage #, %rops ora ge #, %rops lemo . %rops bergamot #. ml al4ohol or 4arrier oil #\6 4sp gly4eri e F7B ;G ;F'2B9!;J2= a%% #, %rops ma %ari 6 %rops 4oria %er . %rops pat4houli $ %rops va illa ),p%call, 4 #l M A5 $ ops

'he typi4al per4e tage for a 2au %e :olog e is ,?#.T ble % i #**T al4ohol0 :ommer4ial perfumers prefer a per4e tage of $ to .T but this is usually %ue to 4ost?effe4tive ess0 But if you wish a lighter versio = the you 4a sti4k to the 4ommer4ial perfumes per4e tages0 I the tra%itio al metho%s base% o atural esse tial oils= the fragra 4es are usually ot so lo g lasti g as there is o sy theti4 a%%itive to fi>ate the s4e t0 'he purpose of the 2au %e :olog e is to refresh0 Gow= if you a%% some vetiver= pat4houli= ma %ari = 4oria %er a % va illa i the e>ample ble %= you e % up with a lovely aftershave or u ise> fragra 4e0 'he typi4al per4e tage for a aftershave is #* to #.T ble % i #**T al4ohol0 If you wa t to use wit4h haMel to prote4t the ski agai st raMor bur = use -*T al4ohol a % 6*T wit4h haMel0 I our e>ample= you woul% use $* ml al4ohol a % 2* ml wit4h haMel0 'he gly4eri e is use% as a fi>ative to make the smell last lo ger but it is also helpi g to elimi ate the se satio of %ry ess 4ause% by al4ohol o the ski 0 Besi%es it has some a ti?o>i%a t properties for a lo ger shelf life0 Note that gl,ce %ne %s ne0e "se$ %n ca %e o%l' Isabelles tip!

Copyright notice: This booklet has been compiled by Isabelle Gell and is the intellectual property of the author. Reference made to other sources is mentioned whenever applicable. lease be aware that this booklet C!""#T be circulated on the Internet or through any other public means without the e$press written consent of the author. !ny use of this booklet without prior authorisation will be sub%ect to legal action under the Intellectual property laws.
Page 17

0hen using carrier oil instead of alcohol' do not hesitate to double the top notes as the oil tends to absorb top notes &uickly and make the scent more volatile.

Copyright notice: This booklet has been compiled by Isabelle Gell and is the intellectual property of the author. Reference made to other sources is mentioned whenever applicable. lease be aware that this booklet C!""#T be circulated on the Internet or through any other public means without the e$press written consent of the author. !ny use of this booklet without prior authorisation will be sub%ect to legal action under the Intellectual property laws.
Page 18

45' CREA)ING A F*ORA* EAU 7E )OI*E))E


Ing e$%ents $* %rops yla g yla g #2 %rops pat4houli #2 %rops sa %alwoo% 2 %rops Easmi e 6 %rops rose ] 4sp gly4eri e #. ml al4ohol or 4arrier oil #* ml %istille% water 2 ml rosewater 7% ect%ons 'he 2au %e toilette is the most 4lassi4 way of usi g perfume as a %aily fragra 4e a % i the %ay time0 It is well suite% for those people who %o ot like stro g smells as it is more %is4reet tha perfumes0 'he typi4al per4e tage for a 2au %e toilette is #,?$*T ble % i al4ohol0 I atural perfumery= it really %epe %s o the ble % itself0 I typi4ally a%% $*T ble % i the al4ohol as it allows the perfume to last lo ger0 !owever= this pro4ess is 8uite e>pe sive if you i te % to make a busi ess out of atural perfumes0 For your 4reatio s= I a%vise you to visualise your perfume a % how you wa t it to smell like before starti g0 It will help your i tuitio 0 You ee% to get a48uai te% with the way oils ble % with ea4h other0 9mell them a % write otes about how you feel about them= what they remi % you of et40 Gote that be4ause of the %istille% water a % rosewater= your ble % will look blurre% to start with0 Put it i the fri%ge for a 4ouple of weeks to allow it to settle a % the = filter u til 4lear )see 'e4h i4alities for the filteri g pro4ess+0

1earn to create accords which you can then blend together to make a perfume. 2or e$ample' blend 3 drops of oakmoss to + drop of vetiver to obtain a chypre base accord.

Isabelles tip! /se the soaked filter paper to make a room fragrance: place them in a blend of alcohol and water and leave to macerate for a few weeks. lace in a sprayer and spray your house with your favourite scent4 !n e$ample of genuine 5recycling67
.

Copyright notice: This booklet has been compiled by Isabelle Gell and is the intellectual property of the author. Reference made to other sources is mentioned whenever applicable. lease be aware that this booklet C!""#T be circulated on the Internet or through any other public means without the e$press written consent of the author. !ny use of this booklet without prior authorisation will be sub%ect to legal action under the Intellectual property laws.
Page 19

44' EAU 7E PARFUM AN7 CONCEN)RA)E7 PERFUME


'he %iffere 4e betwee a 2au %e parfum a % a per4e tage of ble % use% i the al4ohol0 I a per4e tage of ble % is high a % be4ause this 4o 4e usually see pure perfumes 4o tai e% i small . e>pe sive pri4e0 4o 4e trate% perfume is the 4o 4e trate% perfume= the trate is so e>pe sive= you will to #. ml bottles at a very

Both are usually wor for eve i gs out or spe4ial o44asio s although /arily /o roe was re ow e% for weari g her e>pe sive :ha el o0. while sleepi gN 2au %e Parfum a % perfumes also have a imalisti4 bases su4h as 4ivet= musk or ambergris or leather o es su4h as agar woo% a % bir4h0 'he a imal bases are %iffi4ult to fi % i their atural state owa%ays %ue to the 4ruelty o the a imals )4ivet or %eer+ so te % to be repla4e% by sy theti4ally repro%u4e% o es0 'he ambergris essence is the most 4ommo ly use%0 It is a atural stoma4h reEe4tio from the sperm whale whi4h %oes ot i volve a y harm to the mammal0 'he e>4reme t is washe% out by the sea o the sa % a % over the years= gives a stro g smell to this most pre4ious @sto eA0 'he atural alter ative to ambergris is vegetal ambrette seeds0 'gar wood is a leather ote most 4ommo ly k ow i the famous @:uir %e BussieA perfume by :ha el= base% o the :ossa4k leather boots rubbe% agai st bir4h tree0 7 e way to e sure your perfume is stro g a % lo g lasti g is to ti 4ture your favourite base ote i al4ohol a % let it ma4erate for at least $ mo ths0 For i sta 4e= if you like sa %alwoo%= ti 4ture #* ml of sa %alwoo% i #** ml of al4ohol or 4arrier oil0 'he = you a%% your perfume ble % i to it a % let it ma4erate agai 0 You will e % up with a te a4ious perfume si 4e the al4ohol itself has bee impreg ate% with the oil0 'his same pro4ess is use% with ambergris0 +ol%$ pe !"#e is fashio able agai 0 It use% to be the way to make perfumes before al4ohol starte% to be use%0 'he simplest way is to buy the @4o 4reteA e>tra4te% from the flower )this is the butter whi4h 4omes out the first e>pressio of the flowers through the enfleurage pro4ess+0 For i sta 4e= you 4a ble % #* g of rose 4o 4rete with 2* %rops of sa %alwoo%0 9oli% perfume is use% a lot i the /i%%le 2ast as it is al4ohol free0 It also offers the be efit of bei g able to smell your favourite flower i its purest state0 'here are more 4omple> ways to 4reate a soli% perfume whi4h is to ble % EoEoba oil with beeswa> a % the perfume o heat but I am i favour of remai i g as 4lose as possible to what ature offers u less you have a lot of spa4e a % spe4ial pots a % pa s for maki g perfumes i your kit4he 0

Copyright notice: This booklet has been compiled by Isabelle Gell and is the intellectual property of the author. Reference made to other sources is mentioned whenever applicable. lease be aware that this booklet C!""#T be circulated on the Internet or through any other public means without the e$press written consent of the author. !ny use of this booklet without prior authorisation will be sub%ect to legal action under the Intellectual property laws.
Page 20

4A' C6I**ING2 FI*)ERING AN7 7ECAN)ING PROCE++


I or%er for your perfume to have a lo ger lasti g power a % to e sure it is 4leare% off a y resi%ues= you will ee% to 4hill a % %e4a t your perfume0 'he C6I**ING pro4ess allows all the resi%ues to get to the bottom of the bottle so that all you ee% the is to filter a % %e4a t0 'o %o so= o 4e you have ma%e your perfume a % a%%e% the al4ohol= pla4e it for 26 hours i the freeMer0 Gote that this pro4ess %oes ot apply to perfume with a vegetable oil base0 ;fter 26 hours= take it out a % let it sit i room temperature0 You shoul% see resi%ues at the bottom o 4e it has warme% up0 'o FIL'2B= you have two optio s( 'he most straightforwar% is to pla4e a filter )a tea filter paper fol%e% i two is i%eal but you 4a also use a thi wall 4offee filter+ i a fu el )%o ot use a big fu el as you might loose more perfume+ a % slowly pour your perfume i to the fu el a % %e4a t i a ew bottle0 'he resi%ues will remai i the filter0 'he problem with this pro4ess is that sometimes= the esse tial oils are so thi4k that you might ee% to filter several times before you get a 4lear perfume )si 4e the resi%ues will keep o tra sferri g whe you %e4a t+0 9ome perfumers use FullerAs 2arth to e sure the resi%ues go to the bottom of the bottle a % stay0 'he other optio re8uires more pre4isio but e sures that resi%ues remai at the bottom of the bottle0 It is ot suitable if you use bottles of over .* ml 4o te t0 "si g a pipette= take out the top part of the pro%u4t a % tra sfer i the ew bottle0 /ake sure your pipette %oes ot tou4h the bottom of the bottle so that you %o At fill it with some resi%ues0 5hi4hever optio you use= ote that you will have some loss of pro%u4t0 9o if you wish to fill i a bottle of .* ml= you shoul% a4tually prepare .. ml of pro%u4t= for e>ample0

Copyright notice: This booklet has been compiled by Isabelle Gell and is the intellectual property of the author. Reference made to other sources is mentioned whenever applicable. lease be aware that this booklet C!""#T be circulated on the Internet or through any other public means without the e$press written consent of the author. !ny use of this booklet without prior authorisation will be sub%ect to legal action under the Intellectual property laws.
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4E' CREA)ING A C6YPRE BA+E


Ing e$%ents Z Z Z Z Z Z Z Z #* %rops grapefruit , %rops bergamot , %rops rose #2 %rops oakmossX 2 %rops 4e%arwoo% , %rops lab%a um $* %rops be Moi $ %rops va illa

Note: these last th ee o%ls a e the &ase to c eate a nat" al a#&e acco $ O #* ml EoEoba or fra4tio ate% 4o4o ut or 2* ml al4ohol 7% ect%ons 'he :hypre family is the most fle>ible o e i perfumery as it 4a give se sual or sophisti4ate%= mas4uli e or femi i e perfumes0 'his is the family of the Fre 4h 4lassi4 perfumes su4h as /itsouko of Guerlai or /a Griffe of :arve or ;ramis 2au %e toilette for /e 0 'he base is a44or%s of oakmoss= 4istus?lab%a um= pat4houli a % bergamot= to whi4h floral or fruity otes 4a be a%%e%0 For a great a % a%%i4tive mas4uli e fragra 4e= I suggest a%%i g . to #* %rops of vetiver to obtai a 4lassi4 :hypre vetiver )Guerlai As o e is the most famous+ or . to , %rops of sa %alwoo% for a :hypre sa %alwoo%0 For a femi i e fragra 4e= the 4reativity is u limite%0 ;%% a few %rops of floral esse tial oils to 4reate a typi4al early 2*th 4e tury :hypre perfume0 ; % if you woul% like a slightly smoky result= a%% $ %rops of 4i amo leaf i the e %0 'his base is both easy a % 4omple> to play with a % it guara tees very i teresti g results while bei g fu to 4reate0 I or%er ot to waste too mu4h of the e>pe sive esse tial oils= start a%%i g small 8ua tities= smell a % a%% u til you like the fi al result0 You are free to a%% as ma y oils as you wa t to this base but beware of those oils su4h as Easmi e a % tuberose whi4h te % to overwhelm the rest0 G7'2( Gowa%ays you 4a fi % fruit smells repro%u4e% aturally as @e>tra4tsA )you 4a fi % some i supermarkets+0 ;%%i g a bla4kberry or raspberry e>tra4t to the :hypre base will result i a savoury sweet a % fruity perfume0

0hen using alcohol as a carrier base' add blackcurrant bud to give a sweet' fruity smell to the

Chypre base. !gain' don6t hesitate to add more top notes if you are using an oil base.

Copyright notice: This booklet has been compiled by Isabelle Gell and is the intellectual property of the author. Reference made to other sources is mentioned whenever applicable. lease be aware that this booklet C!""#T be circulated on the Internet or through any other public means without the e$press written consent of the author. !ny use of this booklet without prior authorisation will be sub%ect to legal action under the Intellectual property laws.
Page 22

4I' *I+) OF RARE AN7 E8PEN+I9E OI*+


7 4e you have got a48uai te% with the basi4s= you 4a start e>perime ti g with the rarest oils )but also the most e>pe sive o es+0 Below is a list of those use% i fi e a % lu>urious perfumery0 'heir high pri4e makes them u i8ue a % owa%ays= they are rarely use% i perfumery whi4h is a real shame si 4e they 4a a%% so mu4h more to a perfume0 I the 4omfort of your home a % for your ow perso al use= it 4a be a i%ea to a48uire some0 I also give you the ame of a 4ouple of websites o whi4h you 4a pur4hase your oils0 For rarer o es= you are free to 4o ta4t me as I have a44ess to some @professio alA pro%u4ers\suppliers0 ;4a4ia ;gar woo% ):ambo%ia+ ;ustralia a % I %ia sa %alwoo% Blo % toba44o Blue 4ypress Bourbo gera ium )Beu io isla %+ Broom :ar atio Dava a Freesia Gar%e ia 'ahite sis )'ahiti flower+ Germa 4hamomile I ula Lapa ese osma thus Lasmi e samba4 )I %ia+ /ag olia )4hampa4a+ /imosa Gar4issus )very rare+ Geroli )'u isia+ 7rris absolute Pi k lotus );sia+ Bho%o%e %ro Bose %e /ai )4e tifolia rose from Grasse+ Bose otto )'urkish ; atolia rose+ Bosewoo% 9pike ar% );meri %ia pla t+ 'o ka bea )va illa smell with a 4o4o ut u %erto e also k ow as @4oumari A a % fou % i pipe toba44o+ 'uberose Jiolet leaf )2gypt a % Fra 4e+

Copyright notice: This booklet has been compiled by Isabelle Gell and is the intellectual property of the author. Reference made to other sources is mentioned whenever applicable. lease be aware that this booklet C!""#T be circulated on the Internet or through any other public means without the e$press written consent of the author. !ny use of this booklet without prior authorisation will be sub%ect to legal action under the Intellectual property laws.
Page 23