2013 EDITION 5
CORFU TOWN
Surprising sophistication in the Ionian Sea
DUBROVNIK
Top tips for cruisers
Doing
in a day
Montenegro
Magic at Aman Sveti Stefan
Corsica
ME AND MY TRAVELS
Kelly Hoppen on Europe
PLUS
CONTENTS
06
Angela Sara West talks to Kelly Hoppen about the design gurus love of Europe and the Pearl 75 motor yacht
ME AND MY TRAVELS
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18
CORFU TOWN
Saturated with vintage buildings and atmospheric streets, the town has much to offer even the most sophisticated visitor
Part souk, part late renaissance fantasy. From churches to chocolate it never fails to surprise the traveler
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A guide to doing the fabulous walled city, the pearl of the Adriatic, in a day, from two hour walks to day trips
A leisurely stroll around the Yorkshire Dales; home to giants, ghosts, books and TV series
REGIA DI CASERTA
With 1200 rooms its a rival to Versailles and one of the nest and largest palaces in the world
Talking trains with Mark Smith from specialist train travel website seat61.com
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An insight into this highend hideaway, simply oozing style, history and romance
64
From ash and swanky to cheap and cheerful, there is plenty for all in Italys second city
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CORSICA
68 74
TURKEY Time for tea - a guide to the must do experiences when visiting this mysterious gateway to the East
BAVARIA
Taking it easy is hard work amongst the breathtaking visions that wait around every curve of the trail
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DESBERT WIBSON
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Editors Letter
EDITOR
David Jacobs david.jacobs@aglpublications.com
WeB DeveLOPMeNT
Martyn Niman martyn.niman@aglpublications.com Davide Halfon davide.halfon@aglpublications.com
ART DIReCTOR
Maritte Barkhuizen mariette.barkhuizen@aglpublications.com
Welcome to the fth edition of EuroTravel Magazine. As far as we are aware, its the only online ip-page magazine focusing exclusively on Europe as a tourist destination. This month we travel the breadth of Europe, from the Yorkshire Dales to Turkey, visiting a few exciting destinations en route, including the islands of Corsica, Sicily and Corfu. Kelly Hoppen, the design guru and new Dragon in Britains Dragons Den TV programme, talks about her love of Europe, particularly the Balearic Islands of Ibiza and Mallorca. We also chat to Mark Smith, the founder of specialist rail travel website Seat61, about our shared love of train travel. We continue our series of Beginners Guides, this time with a look at the top ten cities in Bavaria, and the multitude of attractions oered by Turkey from the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul to the mysterious Lycian tombs in the Teke Peninsula. Our guide to cruise ship destinations visits Dubrovnik, the famous walled city on the Adriatic coast of Croatia. I was there in the summer and it far exceeded my expectations. Denitely one of the best Mediterranean cruise destinations. O the top of my head my top ve would probably be: Istanbul, Venice, Dubrovnik, Naples and Santorini, with the simply stunning Kotor, in Montenegro a very close sixth. I hope you continue to enjoy the magazine. The feedback from readers continues to be amazing. Do let us know if there are any specic destinations you would like us to cover in future editions. All the best David Jacobs Editor
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Publications
EuroTravel | 5
Interview
Me & My Travels
Kelly Hoppen - Designer to the Stars
Angela Sara West speaks to world-famous queen of interiors and entrepreneur-turned-author-educator-TV presenter, Kelly Hoppen MBE about her European travels and being brought on board to style the award-winning, groundbreaking high-end boys toy, luxury motor yacht Pearl 75 which was moored in Mallorca this year before setting sail on its Mediterranean tour.
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Interview
Nothing says luxury like a Kelly Hoppen design Since kicking o her career at sweet 16, Britains awardwinning rst lady of interior designs achieved iconic status, putting her contemporary stamp on celebrities homes, yachts and private jets, along with a boutique Barcelona hotel, Swiss ski hotel, residential projects in London and Moscoweven a French Riviera golf club. The design doyenne recently starred as a Dragon in the BBC series Dragons Den and her A-list clientele includes close friends the Beckhams and Elton John. Famous for her taupe colour palette, her signature East-meets-West styles won her numerous accolades includingthe Oscar of the industry, the Andrew Martin Interior Designer of the Year award, an Elle Style Award,European Woman of Achievement and a much-coveted MBE.
incredible and I never fail to nd something inspiring and original. Londons Decorex interior design event is another great one always packed to the brim. Every year, I go to Maison & Objet in Paris and Salone in Milan for inspiration.
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Interview
You regularly holiday in Ibiza and spent your 50th birthday there. How did you celebrate?
I rented a villa for my family and friends. Pete Tong DJd and David Walliams and Ben De Lisi came. I celebrated with all my loved ones. Great food, fantastic wine and even better company I couldnt have asked for more!When dining out, I love La Paloma Italian restaurant the food is amazing. Theres also a new place called Caf B on Formentera, which is fantastic!
on the soft furnishings. The best aspects been seeing the nal product and exceptional workmanship thats gone into making my designs into a reality. Its a unique modern design, standing on its own among rivals.
You also designed talk-of-thetown sleek and sumptuous boutique hotel Murmuri in Barcelona Yes, it was great!
We went to look at every single hotel to see what our competitors were and there was nothing like what we had in mind! In fact, working with the Majestic Group was incredible.
Youve also visited Mallorca. What do you love most about the island? Its lovely the little shops, restaurants and people. What did you enjoy most about styling the Pearl 75?
When designing and conceptually thinking about the exceptional space, I wanted to make it feel incredibly comfortable and inviting, but with a sense of simplicity.I used my rule of thumb for high-end residential of dividing up the space using a grid system, combining a mixture of soft and hard nishes togetherwhether it be the polished nickel oor runner leading from the living area to the dining space or the cushion bands and vertical stripes
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factbox
Kellys latest book, Kelly Hoppens Design Masterclass: How to Achieve the Home of Your Dreams was out on 21st November. Check out her app for the iPhone and iPad, offering advice on design when shopping for the home. Kellys also an ambassador for The Princes Trust,cultivating young talentand inspiring young people topursue their business ideas. For more information, see Kellys website:http://kellyhoppen.com/
Greece
Corfu Town
By Richard Bevan
To Book Hotels in Corfu, CLICK heRe To Research this Destination Further, CLICK heRe
Corfu Town
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Greece
C
Corfu Town
Corfu, situated o the north western coast of Greeces mainland is a diverse island comprising of historical towns, pretty villages and beaches with a more temperate climate than other Greek islands in the southern hemispheres. The airport is alarmingly close to Corfu Town where the average taxi ride from baggage collection to the centre is less than fteen minutes.
and the British who all left their mark. The main English import here isnt sh and chip shops and Bingo but cricket, landscaped gardens and a bandstand that could have come straight out of Regents Park. It is from this much loved Victorian leftover that locals and visitors can enjoy listening to an eclectic mix of brass band music while a nearby green space is home to cricket matches watched over by coee drinkers in colonnaded splendour.
Corfu Town, the islands capital is full of surprises and largely unrepresentative of a destination that has become associated with package holiday culture over the years. The old town itself couldnt be further away from the brash commercialism of 18-30 holiday playgrounds and as a UNESCO heritage site is saturated with vintage buildings and atmospheric streets within a sedate but bustling community. It is also culturally unique reecting over seven hundred years of European inuence due to occupation by the Venetians, French
UNESCO Status
In 2007 the old town was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage list and for good reason due to its architectural heritage ranging from Greek Orthodox churches to buildings reecting its past occupiers. With its winding streets and picturesque squares that pop up unexpectedly around corners, the town exudes elegance and youthful vibrancy due to a busy local populace and lively student presence. Unlike many museum towns that can be found on the tourist
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Greece
Greece
trail, Corfu Town feels like a city where people actually live and work, even if it appears at times they are outnumbered by invading visitors in Justin Bieber t-shirts. Of course along with the vibrancy of a living town also comes the inevitable realities of grati and neglected outer areas but in general the aesthetic pleasures of this friendly and atmospheric mini metropolis outweigh the detritus of economic depression and political slogans sprayed on walls. It is all the more interesting (especially for walkers) for not being a pristine Disneyed set piece, but a place that combines both beauty and shabbiness in equal measures.
Comically referred to as the New Fortress it is younger by just twenty three years. Despite its central and imposing position it is mainly ignored by tourists which makes it one of the most enjoyable vintage sites to potter around (a small cafe provides alcoholic and soft drinks) and like the Old Fort also provides stunning views of the city and vistas across to the mainland and mountains of Albania.
The Liston First stop to get ones bearings in the town and enjoy a coee or cool drink amid bustle and elegant surroundings is The Liston overlooking the cricket ground. A colonnaded building housing cafes and built by the French in 1807, this copy of Rue de Rivoli in Paris echoes a period when the Venetians made a list of noble families, the only ones allowed to walk along its parade. Agios Spyridon The most important and holiest church in Corfu with the tallest belfry on the island. Built in 1589 and named after the saint Spyridon whose mummied body lies inside a silver casket. The interiors contain beautiful frescoes and
The Venetians ruled here for over four centuries and this is reflected in what could be seen as the citys major signature landmark The Old Fortress
The Liston
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Greece
Greece
a plethora of silverware brought by pilgrims over the centuries. Palace of St Michael and St George Built by the British in the 19th century as the residence of Sir Thomas Maitland, the building now functions as a museum and houses the Museum of Asiatic Art. The two oored classically designed venue hosts superbly presented exhibits of antiquities.
Places of intestest
Achilleion Palace A popular excursion out of Corfu town (20 mins bus ride) to the Italian designed retreat of Elizabeth Sissy, Empress of Austria and Bavaria whose life reected in some ways to that of Lady Diana Spencer. Renowned for her beauty and not beyond a little neurotic behaviour herself, she had an obsession with horses, Roman villas, travelling (to counter boredom) and was assassinated in Geneva by an Italian anarchist. The villa is a fascinating mix of styles from Neo Classical to Teutonic. After her death Kaiser Wilhelm II bought the palace in 1907.
Getting there
Take the blue bus from Corfu Town bus station. An all day travel ticket will save hassle.
Prince Philips Family Villa A hidden gem quietly tucked away on the outskirts of Kanoni and standing in what looks like the run down set of Sunset Boulevard. This unassuming and somewhat modest royal residence was the summer retreat of Greeces royal family and birthplace of the Duke of Edinburgh. A museum since 1967 the surrounding area is home to ancient ruins (Mon Repos) a Byzantine church and the most stunning vista across the Ionian Sea. This shady, tranquil and shabby jewel is best discovered by bike or scooter.
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Greece
Bike Hire
Go explore
Tips
This is a fun, cheap and enjoyable way of seeing what Corfu has to offer although be warned as a mountainous island there can be hills to test even hardened cycle Olympians.
neighbouring sister Antipaxos, renowned for its secluded sandy beaches. Book tickets for the hydrofoil or ferries from the main port.
Swimming at Kanoni
Avoid the scrappy and rather unedifying mini beach at the back of the causeways only cafe and instead take the dinky boat (5mins duration) to Mouse Island which is quiet and only visited by a handful of curious folk for its treetop monastery. The adventurous among you should find risking cuts and bruises over the islands volcanic girdle a minor inconvenience in order to enjoy total solitude in clear, aqua blue waters. The boat service is regular.
During summer avoid the narrow winding streets around late morning and early afternoon until the cruise ship day-visitors have departed for their all inclusive on board bean-feasts. Being able to wander around pleasantly uncrowded winding warrens makes all the difference to the atmosphere and feeling you are part of the town rather than just another trinket buyer. The day-visitors are gone by the afternoon leaving the city to the locals and discerning visitors. Note that most public buildings and museums are closed on Mondays.
Greece
Hotels
The Cavelieri an 18th century boutique hotel is positioned on the front of the Esplanade facing a spectacular view of the Old Fort. Moderately priced it has one of the best bedroom views I have experienced in Greece looking over the towns eastern bay and is a ve minute walk to the centre. The hotels garden roof restaurant (open to non residents) oers superb quality dining and panoramic views.
restaurant that serves the most delicious assortment of beef and pork dishes. I would have gone here every night had I known about it at the time.
If you go
Flights from Gatwick direct to Corfu airport are regular and take around 2hrs 40mins. Taxi rides less than 15mins into central Corfu Town.
Cavalieri Hotel
4 Capodistriou, St, Corfu Town. www.cavalieri-hotel.com
Recommended Spots
Ninos. A central non fussy inexpensive traditional Greek
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Sicily
M DICA
Sicilys Surprising Baroque Jewel
To Book Hotels in Modica, CLICK HERE To Research this Destination Further, CLICK HERE
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Sicily
Modica
My rst encounter with Modica was late on a summers night. The approach to the city, across a broad plateau, gave no hint of the secrets that were about to be exposed. Below a small car park, lights sparkled as if a basket of stars, part souk, part late Renaissance fantasy, a mosaic of buildings which belied the complex history of one of Sicilys Baroque jewels. The two sections of the city, Modica Basso (below) and Modica Alta (above) were clearly apparent
even at a late hour. The stunning faade of the Church of San Giorgio, patron saint of Modica Alta, and the monument lined approach to the Church of San Pietro, patron saint of Modica Basso, shimmered in amber light. Modicas sharp escarpment and valley were created by the Modicano, a river formed of two smaller tributaries; Pozzo dei Pruni and Janni Mauro. Noted for the number of bridges which once crossed the river, and for the commerce which lined its banks,
the city became known as the Venice of Sicily. Following a catastrophic ood in 1902, the city installed huge culverts which now move the river safely under Modica Bassos main thoroughfare, Corso Umberto I. In 1693 the eastern side of the island suered nearly complete destruction followingc a strong earthquake. Architects and stonemasons recovered from that disaster by creating a new style of building which has come to be known a Sicilian Baroque. It is a
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Sicily
The rays of sunlight that pierce the cathedrals windows, particularly in the afternoon, create prisms of light on the surface of huge white interior marble column; an evocative sense of the spiritual in a spiritual place.
result of the spectacularly carved and intricately carved stones used in this new style of building that Modica shares, along with the nearby cities of Ragusa, Scicli and Noto, the unique distinction of being a UNESCO protected site. When you visit the city, there are a few key sites I strongly encourage you to enjoy.
Churches
The Cathedral of San Giorgio Located on a steep hillside, above a garden shaped like a large key, this is one of the most striking examples of Sicilian Baroque in Sicily. The facade was rebuilt after the 1693 earthquake and the results are spectacular. One of the islands rst meridians, a means of tracing the seasons by the position of the sun on the oor of the cathedral, crosses in front of the main altar. It was in 1895, that the mathematician Armando Perinio received permission from the church to install the meridian. The rays of sunlight that pierce the cathedrals windows, particularly in the afternoon, create prisms of light on the surface of huge white interior marble column; an evocative sense of the spiritual in a spiritual place.
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The Cathedral of San Pietro Older than San Giorgio, this was the diocesan church of the city until factions formed around Modica Alta and Modica Basso. The ensuing divisions ended in their being two patron saints of the city - San Giorgio for the upper city and Saint Peter for the lower city. The statues of the twelve saints that stand along both sides of the entrance stairway to the church are beautiful, as is the interior of this historic church. San Niccolo Inferiore It was in the late 1960s, when a car repair garage was being enlarged, that workers opened up a cave. It was determined that the cave had
San Giorgio
been used by early (4th Century A.D.) Christians as a place of worship. Located o of a small side lane along the Corso Umberto I, you have to ring a bell to enter this little known treasure in the heart of the city. A warden leans out of a window above you in response to the bell, then descends and opens the cave for you. The walls retain remnants of fourth and fth century frescoes created by the artists of the day, gorgeous in their simplicity, moving in their beauty.
Chocolate in Modica
You can nd few chocolatiers in Italy that can match the history of Bonajuto (bon-aye-u-toe) in Modica
Sicily
San Pietro
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Sicily
If you go
Hotels
The Palazzo Failla in Modica Alta The Failla family opened this lovely hotel in their family palazzo. The restoration of their once family home is gorgeous. In 2008, the family opened a depandance across the road from the original hotel where suites that include every modern convenience (spa tubs, steam showers for example) are available. There are two restaurants in the hotel - the Gazza Ladra and La Locanda del Colonnello. The Gazza is one of the finest restaurants in Italy while the Locanda oers typical Sicilian fare. Via Blandini, 5 - 97015 Modica (RG) Tel: +39.0932.941.059 Cambiocavallo For those more interested in the quiet retreat of a country estate, rather than a city hotel, the Cambiocavallo oers guests the beauty of a resort with easy access to the sea and the main sites of southeastern Sicily. The resort is located about half way between Modica and the southern shore of the island, near Pozzallo. www.cambiocavallo.com c.da Zimmardo Km 5 provinciale Modica-Pozzallo Tel. (+39) 0932.77.91.18 info@cambiocavallo.it
Restaurants
Osteria dei Sapori Perduti In addition to the two restaurants listed in the Hotel Palazzo Failla, I also strongly encourage you to enjoy a meal (or meals!) at the Osteria dei Sapori Perduti. This is a treasure of a place to enjoy a fabulous meal in Sicily. The recipes are generations old, traditional in every sense. The translation of the Osterias name (The Osteria of Lost Flavors) is not quite accurate as the avors, rediscovered in traditional recipes, are unforgettable. This is a very aordable place and the service is matched by the owners dedication to satisfying even the most discriminating palate. Corso Umberto I, 228, 97015 Modica, Sicily, Italy Tel: +39.0932.944.247 Pizzeria Smile Pizzeria Smile? Yes. A short walk from the Palazzo Failla in Modica Alta is this wonderful pizzeria. After long days of travel and visiting across this part of Sicily, the pizzeria oers simple and avorful fare served in a very plain atmosphere. Weather permitting, the dining rooms open to the street and absent the occasional motos that rip past the restaurant, the cool evening breezes are a welcome respite from the heat of
summer and welcome cool in the autumn and spring. Via G. Marconi, 17 Tel: +39.0932.946.666
Churches
San Giorgio and San Pietro 10:00AM until 6:00PM except Sundays. Sunday 1:00PM 5:00PM. The schedule for masses are posted on the doors and interior entrances to the churches. San Niccolo Inferiore Hours vary by request. You must ring the bell at the entrance to the site to gain entrance with no reservation. If you wish to set up a time to visit, call the Italian cell phone listed in this summary and make an appointment. This is a place with no formal hours, absent 10:00AM to 5:00PM. It is catch as catch can, but well worth the eort! Via Rimaldi, 1. Tel: +39.331.740.3045.
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Sicily
Basso. Established in 1880 by Francesco Bonajuto, the recipes used in this workshop date to the time of Spanish occupation on Sicily. The grainy texture of the chocolate (they do not allow the sugar to dissolve completely) mixed with ingredients as diverse as red pepper or lemon, are a delight. Guided visits can be arranged. See below under IF YOU GO for further details.
Day Trips
There are numerous options open to visitors who choose Modica as the base for their visit to this part of Sicily. Easily reached are the other famous Sicilian Baroque cities of Scicli, Noto and Ragusa. Lovely
small shing villages, like Sampieri and Pozzallo, dot the southeastern coast and oer quiet (except in July and August!) respite from the cities. The Cava dIspica, another site replete with the remains of early religious worship, is an easy day trip as well. For those more adventuresome, a longer day trip provides time to visit the extraordinary Valley of the Temples near the southern coastal city of Agrigento. On many evenings, I have walked up to the piazza above the
Hotel Palazzo Failla - see Hotels below (not for the feint of heart!) - and looked out over the valley of Modica. Despite the occasional group of local youths who gather as young people are wont to do, the timelessness of the buildings, the rugged beauty of the architecture and the evening shafts of sunset light evoke a dierent time, a dierent era, a dierent Italy. No matter where your travels take you during time in Sicily, visit Modica. You will not be disappointed.
You can reach author Mark Gordon Smith at private_italy@hotmail.com, through his travel blog www.travelsacrossitaly.com or his company web site, www.private-italy.com.
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Interview
David Jacobs chats to Mark Smith, from train travel website www.seat61.com.
Mark is a career railwayman, starting work as a British Rail General Management Trainee in 1987, becoming Station Manager London Charing Cross in the early 1990s and later the Customer Relations Manager for two privatised train companies. He subsequently progressed to the Oce of Rail Regulation, Strategic Rail Authority and nally the Department for Transports Rail Directorate (DfT). Until 2007 he was the DfTs expert on UK rail fares and ticketing, heading a small specialist team. He now runs his train travel website www.seat61.com full-time. websites are written. I started a site, purely as a hobby, to explain how to travel from the UK to almost anywhere in Europe by train. I have always found this easy, and far more practical and aordable than most people think, but nding anyone in the rail industry or travel industry willing to tell you how (let alone sell you a ticket) had become dicult if not downright impossible. The site now gets a million visitors each month, and adverts and aliate schemes have made it possible to run the site full-time. Which is just as well, as its a monster to update...
Why did you call the website Seat61? When I set out on a
special journey, for example London to Tokyo via Moscow & Vladivostok, or to Marrakech via Paris and Madrid, or the Crimea via Warsaw and Odessa, it became a sort of tradition to treat myself to Eurostars rst class. And Id always choose a specic seat, to make sure I got one at a table with an unobstructed view from the window. Seat 61 (in cars 7, 8, 11 or 12) tted the bill perfectly.
What tips would you offer on getting the best price tickets in Europe? Most importantly, with only
one or two exceptions Id always book
Interview
direct with the relevant train operator, not with third party agencies. The reason is three-fold: First, because the operators own website will oer their whole fare range including all the cheap advance-purchase fares; Second, because youll usually pay no added booking fee and can print out your own ticket; And third, because youll get maximum functionality, such as the chance to select an exact seat from a numbered plan. Overseas agencies in your own country may only be able to access the most expensive full-ex fares, may add fees, and may not oer a full range of seating options. And as fares in western Europe now work like budget airlines, book early for the cheapest prices. Bookings usually open 92 days before departure.
www.seat61.com
at the platform entrance - it prints the time and date on your ticket, indicating that its been used, which stops fraudulent re-use or refund.
And if you do want to reach Rome, I can recommend a scenic ride from Paris to Milan from just 29, then a high-speed Italo train from Milan to Rome from just 30.
Will we eventually have direct train services from London to Rome along the Eurostar track?
Not to Rome, perhaps - but Eurostar plan direct trains from London to Amsterdam from late 2016, and German Railways plan direct trains from 2016 between London and both Amsterdam and Frankfurt.
Why do you have to validate train tickets in France before going on the platform? In France
and a few other countries you have to validate tickets in a small machine
The Amtrak rail network in the US tends to get a lot of flak. How do you think European trains compare with Amtrak?
Americans typically think we have a great rail network in Europe, and talk down Amtrak. Why? We have nothing here in Europe to compare
Interview
with Amtraks gleaming stainless steel double-deck Superliner trains, with their sleepers, diners and glassed-in observation cars which roll right across a continent. And the scenery on a route such as the Chicago-San Francisco California Zephyr is world class, yet NYC-SF starts at just $212, surely one of the worlds great travel bargains. Ive crossed the States by train half a dozen times and cant understand why there isnt a queue for tickets very day at Penn station!
Aswan to Luxor on the most lthy, decrepit and delayed 3rd class train. I ended up reading text books to schoolchildren to help them with their English, and discussing village life with a young man who worked as a barman on the tourist cruise boats, as we rumbled slowly past the elds and palm trees of the Nile Valley.
When travelling across cities such as Paris and London, how long would you allow between arrival at one station and departure from another? I
normally allow at least 60 minutes to change trains and stations in London or Paris. Even though actual transfer time is more like 30 minutes, you need to allow time for orientation and any slight delays.
Do you have any views on HS2 - The controversial proposed high speed rail network from London to Birmingham which will cost over 50 billion? The
planned HS2 route passes just two miles from my house - but if Britain is going to cope with future transport demand, it should be with rail and not more motorways or ights. But I support a route next to the M1 or M40, not the route thats been chosen.
to Switzerland, Italy or Barcelona, an eatery that also happens to be designated French National Monument. Im becoming a regular! As for hotels, the Pera Palas in Istanbul was built by the WagonsLits company in 1892 for passengers arriving on the Orient Express. A bargain with faded grandeur for decades, its just had a refurbishment, and is no longer faded - or quite as cheap!
Travelling from London to Paris or Brussels by train from City centre to City centre, what would be the typical time saving over ying?
In Europe, a one hour ight usually ends up taking three or even four hours from centre to centre. Eurostar takes just 2h15 from London to Paris, 1h55 from London to Brussels, with a 30-minute checkin in central London. But its not merely the time saving - its the lack of hassle compared to ying, and the fact that you can read, work, or just relax. But then thats the whole point - by air, its mere transportation. By train, the journey can be an experience in itself.
Given the choice of any railway restaurant or hotel in Europe, where would you eat or sleep?
The celebrated and remarkable Train Bleu restaurant at Paris Gare de Lyon stands out, (www.le-train-bleu.com) - its ideal for lunch in Paris between a Eurostar from London and a TGV
Croatia
Dubrovnik
Doing Dubrovnik in a Day
To Research this Destination Further, CLICK heRe
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Croatia
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Croatia
The famously walled Dubrovnik is the proudest feather in Croatias tourist cap, an elite destination and one of the most beautiful towns in the Mediterranean. Dubrovnik used to be an independent republic, living mostly on trade. It managed to survive over the centuries, with constant threats to its territory, particularly from the mighty Ottoman Empire and Venice. It suered substantial damage in 1991 as a result of heavy artillery bombardment during the Croatian War of Independence. Damage to the Old Town of Dubrovnik was observed by a UNESCO team which stayed in the city from 27 November until 20 December 1991. They estimated that 55.9% of buildings were damaged, including 11.1% heavily damaged and 1% burned down. Seven burned Baroque palaces were the greatest losses. Additional damage was caused by troops looting museums, businesses and private homes. Some two decades later the casual cruise tourist would never know - almost all of the damage has been repaired, but if you look closely around the old town, mortar damage in the cobblestone streets and bullet marks in the stone houses are visible. George Bernard Shaw once said that those who seek paradise on Earth should come to Dubrovnik and nd it. Royalty, presidents and
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diplomats have all favoured the city, together with a host of A-Listers over the centuries including Richard the Lionheart, Wallis Simpson, Prince Edward, Elisabeth Taylor, Richard Burton, Michael Douglas, Catharine Zeta Jones, Goldie Hawn, Kurt Russell, Richard Gere, Nick Nolte, Tom Cruise and Kevin Spacey.
the walls, one of the best preserved fortication complexes in Europe, is the major attraction for visitors. The three entrances to the walls are next to St Lukes Church in the east, next to St Saviours Church at the Pile entrance to the Old City and next to the Maritime Museum located at St Johns Fort. In parts, walking the walls, while spectacular, can be a bit of a test for the physically challenged,
Croatia
but there is still plenty to fascinate the one day cruise visitor at ground level. Old Town Pile Gate, at the western end of the Placa Thoroughfare is a convenient starting place for your stroll through the Old Town. Before entering the Old Town, Fort Lovrjenac, the rst among many sites worth seeing in Dubrovnik, provides a
good view of the Old Town and its wall. Just outside Pile Gate, is Pile Square is where most of the walking tours begin, by the fountain near Dubravka bar restaurant. To be safe, its best to book these in advance. Big Onofrios Fountain. In the western (Pile) entrance of the old town, The fountain stairs are nowadays a favourite meeting place
for local youth and where both the tourists and pigeons take rest and refresh themselves with cool water. The water from here is regarded as drinking water but do check. Placa Stradun. The Stradun (Placa) is the central street of the city of Dubrovnik and is the place where the old city comes to life. Explore the shade of the perpendicular streets
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Croatia
Sponza Palace
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Croatia
and alleys, some rising steeply, on its sides. The uniform Baroque architecture of the houses with shops on the street level and their kneelike entrances, got its present-day form in the restoration of the City which took place after the disastrous earthquake in 1667, when a large number of luxurious Gothic and Renaissance palaces were destroyed. Lovrjenac Fort is situated to the west of the Old City on a 37 metre-high rock. The symbol of Dubrovniks survival and freedom, the fort was used for the defence of the city and the western Pile gate. Above the entrance to the fort is the famed inscription: NON BENE PRO TOTO LIBERTAS VENDITUR AURO (Freedom is not sold for all gold in the world). The rst ocial records mention the fort in 1301, although it is believed that its construction began earlier. Bell Tower, (after the Ploe entrance to the city). On top of the tower are the famous Zelenci (The Green Ones), bronze statues which strike the gigantic bell every hour. Sponza Palace, (West of the Bell Tower). Gothic Renaissance palace, one of the few buildings that survived the catastrophic 1667 earthquake intact. Rectors Palace, Pred dvorom 1, +385 20 321 437. Formerly the palace of the Major Council, now houses a museum dedicated to the citys history.
Plaza Stradun
Explore the shade of the perpendicular streets and alleys, some rising steeply, on its sides.
Synagogue and Jewish Museum, Zudioska 5, +385 20 321 028. This originally Sephardic Synagogue is supposed to be the second oldest synagogue still in use in Europe today. A permanent Jewish community here was founded at the end of the 15th century following the exodus from Portugal and Spain. The community ourished and included respected doctors, merchants and state representatives. The Synagogue is tiny and delightful, with heavy velvet drapes and a richly painted, midnight blue ceiling. The museum contains valuable artifacts, alongside information on the history of the Jewish community in Dubrovnik Dubrovnik Cable Car, Petra Kreimira 4. bb, 20000 Dubrovnik. Directions to the Cable Car are dicult to nd in the Old City. On the northern side of the city Bua Street leads you towards the exit from the city walls. From there you keep climbing towards the re station. Once you are at the re station, you need to cross the street on your right hand side and keep going straight. After a few moments you will see the cable car station on your right hand side. The view of the Old City will rival that found on any postcard. There is a small shop at the top and restaurant with outside terraces, and the most fabulous of views.
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Croatia
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England
There is something about desolate landscapes that inspires awe. Standing at the crest of a pass between Wensleydale and Swaledale, I look out across the fells of Yorkshire, at the scudding clouds throwing patterns of light and shadow over the purple heather and bracken covered hills and Im silenced by their stark beauty.
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England
work elsewhere Most of them never returned. Today only a few scattered farmsteads endure the severe winters and the hills stretch bleak and windswept to the horizon. Not all of the Yorkshire Dales National Park is barren wilderness. Wensleydale is picturepostcard pretty: green undulating pastureland where black-faced sheep graze-and occasionally amble across the road. Eighteenth century slate barns stand in the centre of hayelds, and low stone walls weave over the hills. The river Ure gurgles past medieval inns and the ramparts of old castles. Small market towns bustle with activity, their winding cobbled roads anked by craft shops, country pubs, rural cottages, stone churches, parks and gardens. At a little pub where I order a pint, the owner Alf, is a bearded gnome with a gap-toothed grin. He tells me that the pub stands near a path known as the Corpse Way. In medieval times, remote villages at the upper end of Swaledale didnt have churches, and anyone wanting to be buried in consecrated ground would have to be carried 15 or 20 miles all the way to Grinton. People had nowt to spend on cons, he says, so tbody would be wrapped oop in a sheet and popped into a large wicker baaskit, which would be carried by tmen of tvillage. On a hot summers day the whi from the basket would get pretty strong, and the men would light their clay pipes to mask the odour. At intervals along the Corpse Way were barns known as Dead Houses
where the weary pall-bearers could plunk the basket down while they went o to the local pub (Laaike oower plaace ere, Alf says) to knock back a few tankards of ale and fortify themselves for the rest of the trip. Noo-a-days, he adds, theres a charity walk whas held every year on t Corpse Way. The prize? A little lapel-pin in the shape of a con! The Dales are full of legends of giants, ghosts and blood-thirsty robber-barons. In more recent times, however, it is James Herriots tales that have delighted readers. No visit to the Dales would be complete without seeing Thirsk, the little town where he lived and worked (his model for the ctional village of Darrowby) and St. Marys church where he married Helen.
Rocky Riverbed Of The River Swale
The TV series, All Creatures Great & Small was lmed not in Thirsk, but in Askreigg as well as several other locales in the Dales and I am as thrilled as any Looky-Luke tourist to click several shots of Skeldale House and The Drovers Arms and to chuckle at the sight of the ruined Abbey where Tristans midnight prank went hilariously awry. The village of Goathland, looks like a lm setwhich, of course it is, in its guise of Aidenseld on TVs Heartbeat -and I almost expect to see Greengrass and his little dog shambling along the street towards me. An old Yorkshire proverb says: If tha does owt for nowt, allus do it for thysen. (If you do anything for nothing, do it for yourself). Good advice! The Dales are worth visiting for thysen.
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Italy Italy
Reggia di
Reggia di Caserta
To Book Hotels in Italy, CLICK heRe To Research this Destination Further, CLICK heRe
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Italy
It is dicult to imagine a more spectacular surprise in southern Italy, amidst the architettura fascista of the cities notoriously ugly preferia (suburbs), than the Reggia (Royal Palace) of Caserta. Luigi Vanvitellis 1751 design was created under the direction and support of King Charles VII Bourbon. The plan was for a palace which would dwarf the kings summer residence and hunting lodge on the Capodimonte hill (now the National Archaeological Museum of Naples). The Capodimonte site was chosen
specically for its position above the lth and congested lanes of the city center. The location of the country residence was chosen for its scale and privacy. Based upon inspirations of Charless boyhood home, the Royal Palace in Madrid, Reggia di Calabria outsizes Versailles in numerous ways. This is one of the nest royal palaces extant in the world. With 1200 rooms, over seventy million cubic feet of volume, forty completely frescoed royal rooms, compared to twenty three in Versailles, the sheer scale of the palace is nearly overwhelming.
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Italy
The Gardens
Though Charles VII initiated construction on the palace, he was never to spend one night in the structure. In 1759 he abdicated to become the King of Spain. It was left to Charless third son, Ferdinand IV of Naples, to bring the palace to its near completion. Vanvitellis original plan included two large colonnades, never realized, comparable in size to Berninis monumental installation surrounding St. Peters Square in Rome. Following Luigi Vanvitellis death in 1773, his son Carlo assumed responsibility for the project. It was during the sons oversight that a garden of 300
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The plan and scale of the beautiful and complex water features and garden have been compared to those of Peter the Greats palace, Peterhof, in St. Petersburg, Russia.
acres was designed and installed. The water garden extends away from the rear of the palace nearly one half mile. It was in 1780 that an English Garden was designed and installed by Johann Graefer, a German born, English trained landscape architect. The grounds are also complimented by a oral garden on the east side of the palace. The plan and scale of the beautiful and complex water features and garden have been compared to those of Peter the Greats palace, Peterhof, in St. Petersburg, Russia. The most important rooms in the palace are the Kings Theater, modeled after the Teatro San Carlo in Naples, Throne Room,
Italy
Italy
Staircase of Honor and Palatine Chapel. The most impressive exterior view of the Palace and estate is from a high point in the gardens. Visits to the palace oer a number of tour itineraries and options. Visit the Reggia di Caserta web site (see IF YOU GO below) for further details. Visitors can easily reach the main entrance at the Palace using the regional train system from Napoli Centrale to
Caserta. The grand approach to the palace is directly across the Sottovia Carlo Vanvitelli from Casertas station. Stunning. Breathtaking. Unforgettable. These are words that somehow inadequately describe this palace of rare beauty. If you are planning a trip to Naples and the Amal Coast, I highly recommend at least a half-day visit to the Reggia di Caserta and gardens.
If you go
Train service from Napoli Centrale begins very early during the week (5:09AM) and trains run approximately every forty minutes. The trip takes fifty minutes each way. For further schedule details refer to: www.virail.com or www.trenitalia.it.
Reggia di Caserta
Web: Reggia di Caserta (Palace) Open: 8:30 to 7:30PM daily (Closed Tuesdays, January 1, Easter Monday, May 1 and 25 December) Garden Park Open: Daily 8:30AM Closings: January, February, November and December at 3:30PM, March at 4:00PM, April at 5:00PM, May at 5:30PM, June August at 6:00PM, September at 6:30PM, October at 5:30PM
You can reach author Mark Gordon Smith at private_italy@hotmail.com, through his travel blog www.travelsacrossitaly.com or his company web site, www.private-italy.com.
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Montenegro
Montenegro
Youve seen those postcard-perfect TV ads promoting the gorgeous hidden gem Montenegro, arguably the last of Europes undiscovered treasures, but where exactly is that idylliclooking spot famed for its unspoilt beauty and breathtaking views? Back with a bang following decades of upheaval, its the fairytale Aman Sveti Stefan Resort, an aweinspiring restoration project of a 15th-century fortied village with a glorious past
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The islet sizzles in a uniquelyhistorical sun-drenched setting on south-eastern Europes alluring Adriatic coastline. Attached to the mainland by a narrow isthmus, creating Montenegros most famous view, its a spectacle thatreally needs to be seen to be believed! Two historic sites comprise the resort, which is dotted along 2km of Montenegros most renowned stretch of coastline: the protected rocky outcrop of the island itself
and Stefans stately Villa Miloer (Queen Marija Karadordevics former summer residence), situated on the beach opposite on the mainland and enjoying breathtaking views out to sea and across the bay to the island. Having evolved from an ancient fortress for 12 families to a village supporting 400 inhabitants in the early 1800s, it was in the 50s that the tiny island of Sveti Stefan made its mark when the last of the
Montenegro
Looking for some first-class R&R? Planning to pop the question? Or maybe youre newlyweds looking for the ultimate spot after tying the knot. Look no further than this high-end hideaway, situated on a stunning islet simply oozing style, history and romancewhich also happens to be magnificent Montenegros most iconic site.
villagers moved to the mainland. The islet became a high-prole hotel for big names in the fashion and entertainment worlds and, along with royals and politicians, was graced by Hollywood sirens such as Marilyn Monroe and Sophia Loren. The break-up of Yugoslavia in the early 90s marked the end of this glamorous era but, 50 years after its initial renaissance as a luxury retreat, thanks to Aman Resorts magic touch harmoniously blending
the regal grandeur of old Europe to retain the islands historic ambiance, Sveti Stefan once again reigns supreme and is rmly back on the map with todays global jet-set. One of the secrets to the resorts successful renovation is the retention of its historic exterior, which remains largely unchanged, paying homage to its fabled past whilst ensuring the interiors have been meticulously-restored and updated to a super-high-spec to meet
contemporary comfort and wow factor expectations. Original interior walls have been expertly preserved and many xtures and furniture manufactured specically to match the islands original style. Soak up centuries of history in its clusters of rustic red-tiled-roofed original stone buildings and intricate cobbled lanes crisscrossing quaint courtyards, indelibly infused with its tempestuous past, but blissfully bathed in peace and prosperity today.
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summer residence of Queen Marija, the great granddaughter of Queen Victoria and the Queen Consort of King Aleksandar of Yugoslavia, later became a home for the former leader of Yugoslavia Josip Broz Tito. The graceful stone villa comprises a 32-hectare estate set on the famous horseshoe-shaped pink-sand Queens Beach, fringed with fragrant g and olive trees. Enhanced by subtle luxurious touches, the sumptuous suites enjoy free-standing bathtubs in stunning stone bathrooms and Juliet balconies with sea views to the island or the gardens.
The spa cottages oer a range of rened massage and body treatments. Indulge yourself at the Queens Beach state-of-the-art spa after a leisurely workout in the gym or a cooling dip in the cliside swimming pool. A second tempting pool entices on the upper terraces on the south side of the island, or guests can bask on one of the resorts inviting beaches.
Overlooking the island from the mainland, Villa Miloer is surrounded by hundreds of fragrant ancient cedar and pine forests and olive trees.
Deluxe Cottage
The Piazza
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Montenegro
Piazza is the exclusive enclaves atmospheric heart and soul, featuring a number of stunning alfresco venues for sampling the very best of local cuisine complemented by premium wines, all topped o with stratospheric standards of service. The shady open-air squares various dining venues include a cellar-style enoteca, a convivial antipasti bar, a buzzing taverna and a wood and leather-bedecked cigar room oering ne Cuban cigars, vintage Armagnac, rare cognac and single-malt whiskeys. The main restaurant, Aman, serves international cuisine and modern interpretations of Montenegros culinary heritage. Breakfast like a king, gazing at the sparkling Adriatic on one of the panoramic terraces. With its dramatic views,
the Cli Pool and Bars the place for ideal sunset cocktail spots. On the mainland, youre also spoilt for choice with a selection of eateries dishing up superb cuisine. Miloer Villas The Dining Room, wisteria-clad seafront Loggia and the Living Room (great for afternoon tea or evening cocktails) oer elegant menus bursting with fresh produce and locally-caught seafood.Perched high on a rocky precipice, drink in the Queens Chair clitop restaurants mindblowing panoramas and Italianinuenced pan-Adriatic gastronomy. For beachside brasserie-style fare, take your pick from The Olive Trees menu of cut-to-order meats and seafood prepared on wood-red grills and the aromatic olive-woodred rotisserie. Alternatively, tucked
away in a nearby cove shaded by cypress trees and century-old olive groves, the Beach Cafs a casual spot for informal dining.
Poolside Dining
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Montenegro
The resort oers bespoke, personalised guided excursions to dizzyingly-mountainous Montenegros scenic and cultural attractions along the Montenegrin coast and into the countrys spectacular interior. Visit the old town of Budva, the wonderfullypreserved baroque city of Perast or go further aeld on guided expeditions, discovering the stories of
centuries past in a rapidly-changing land of rugged snow-capped mountains surrounded by ancient forests and pristine waters, remote cli-top monasteries and imposing stone churches clinging precariously to rocks. UNESCO World Heritage sites include the Bay of Kotor, with its medieval walled town of narrow, cobbled pathways and church-clad squares against a steep
Bay of Kotor
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Montenegro
mountain backdrop. A crumbling castle oers phenomenal vistas of bobbing luxury yachts and the fjord. Activities for the adventurous include setting sail on the Adriatic, cycling plus an array of water-based activities including waterskiing, kayaking, big game shing and diving. Ski bunnies can even hit the nearby slopes. Bird lover? Grab your binoculars and ock to remote Lake Skadar, home to 280 species, including endangered varieties. Wine oclock? Learn about regional wines through private wine tastings and vineyard visits, rounding o a perfect stay with your favourite bottle oh, and THOSE views Beckoning with beauty beyond belief in the shimmering Adriatic, this Balkan paradise awaits!
If you go
Tivat Airport is located 34km from the resort, Podgorica Airport (also known locally as Golubovci Airport) is 54km away, while Dubrovnik Airport in Cilipi, Croatia is approximately a 2.5hr drive away. Airport transfers are complimentary to and from Tivat and the resort can arrange transfers from Podgorica and Dubrovnik Airports. Fly with Monarch: www.monarch.co.uk
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France
To Book Hotels in Corsica, CLICK heRe To Research this Destination Further, CLICK heRe
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France
Corsica
A journey through an island of unique Culture, Cuisine and Countryside.
By Johann Beukes
Wonderful surprises and a feast of colour await you as you crisscross this unique little paradise, south of the Cote dAzur of France. Corsica, o the north-western coast of Italy has been part of France since 1768 and is the fourth largest Mediterranean island. You can see some highlights over a long weekend, you can saviour the uniqueness in a week, but you can treasure the many secrets only over an extended period on Corsica. Although it is a tiny splash on a map, the curling roads less travelled might take you to a gem not documented in travel books. Do not be mislead by a distance on the map 30 kilometres might take over two hours of driving time, especially in the rural mountainous terrain of the inland. My rst sample of Corsica was limited to only four days of exploring the diverse scenery through my
camera lens, sampling fruits la mer and sipping Sciacarello local wine; enjoying the total freedom of a true wanderlust experience in every sense. As the ight into Bastia, (situated at the entrance to the Corso peninsula), had been cancelled at short notice, I was forced to reroute my itinerary, starting in Calvi: a small shing village where time stopped a century ago. All activities
play o on the smallish waterfront, facing the secluded little harbour. Although out of season, it was still a beehive of activities with locals buying fresh sea harvest of the day directly from the source. And tonight they will crowd the many bistros next to the waters edge, with the strings of colourful lights mirrored in the rippling of the water of the quayside.
Calvi
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France
Next day the route to the biggest city, Ajaccio, took me through a unique countryside: Curving narrow mountain roads climbing to breath-taking views of a rugged coastline of wwith many secluded and romantic beaches and the rocky coves of Piana far below. Ajaccio is the birth place of Corsicas famous son, Napoleon. One of the outstanding sights is the cathedral Notre-Damede-la-Misericorde, an imposing construction built in the
are met with the laughing and chuckling of young people on the sidewalks, due to overcrowding of the numerous wine bars. You have not experienced Corsica in full, if you have not visited the historical sites of Filitosa and the Genoese Footbridge at Propriano. Neither are easily accessible and especially out of season I had to transgress on private property to reach the secured ancient menhirs. My second last night I spent in Bonafacio at the southern tip
This capital city radiates a Mediterranean flair even out of holiday seasons.
Renaissance between 1587 and 1593. The enormous dome and cross shaped outline of the building reminds one of Byzantine churches. This capital city radiates a Mediterranean air even out of holiday seasons: irritated drivers in many one-way streets with limited parking. Despite the fact that cars are parked on sidewalks like sardines in a tin, there is always space for yet another car. The music from the many bars and bistros echoed through the narrow streets. You
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of Corsica. To truly appreciate the striking location of the town, go on a boat trip. These are oered departing from the marina and allow you to have stunning views over Bonifacios spectacular location on top of the clis and many caves below. Sardinia (Italy), some 20 kilometres south of Corsica, can be reached by boat. The inland north of PortoVecchio is a paradise for keen photographers. Winding mountainous roads leading from one secluded mountain village
Piana
France
Bonafacio
Ajaccio
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to another: LOspedale, Zonza, Quneza and Aullne are all located on a small secondary road, passing through densely wooded areas and scenic gorges. Certain of the routes were under construction and closed. Due to the fact that it was over a weekend, I unintentionally took the road only open for inhabitants of the towns. It was, however a real blessing in disguise. The capital of Corsicas inland Corte, is not a pretty town. The peeling facades are fairly ugly, and
you have to bring other senses into play to appreciate the huge signicance of this mountain village. The grati on the walls are evident that Corte remains a nationalist stronghold that physically and symbolically lies between Ajaccio and Bastia. The many students give this university town a special buzz; otherwise it is a vantage point for the many hikers visiting this island. Corsica is a walkers paradise; the number one reason to come to this
Zonza
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island in the sun is to explore, enjoy and embrace its natural scenic beauty. Le soleil a tant fait lamour a la mer qu ils ont fini par enfanter la Corse. ( The sun made love to the sea so often that they nally gave birth to Corsica.) The words of Antione de St-Exupery best describes the vibe of this little paradise in the Mediterranean.
Corte
Johann Beukes is CEO of SURE Etnique Travel and TRAVELwithus in South Africa.
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Austria
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Austria
Austrias Tyrol
Life in the slow lane
By Victor Block
To Book Hotels in Austria, CLICK heRe To Research this Destination Further, CLICK heRe
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Austria
The slower you walk, the sooner youll get there. Those words, uttered by Wolfgang Wippler as I followed him up a mountainside, seemed to make little sense. It wasnt long, though, before their truth became evident. At 7,500 feet above sea level, my lungs soon began to gasp for air. Next to go were my legs, increasingly grateful for the near snail-like pace. As we passed a younger couple who had begun their climb well before us at a much faster pace, I understood the wisdom of my guides tortoise-and-hare approach to walking on a mountain. That was my introduction to hiking in the Tyrolean Alps, the sheer peaks that rise sharply from green-carpeted valleys in the western panhandle of Austria. Its
an area with tiny villages of owerbedecked chalets, cows and sheep grazing contentedly in lush hillside meadows, and people who cling proudly to their colorful traditions. No amount of anticipation prepared me for the rugged magnicence of nature. No picture postcard can compete with the breathtaking visions that wait around every curve of the road and step along a hiking trail. Innsbruck, the historic capital of the Tyrol since 1420, is a good place to begin an exploration of the region. Nestled along the River Inn between craggy mountain ranges, the city served as the seat of the powerful Hapsburg imperial court under Emperor Maximilian I from 1490 to1519.
Tyrolean alps
Maria-Theresien-Strasse is a broad boulevard that leads to a market square, which is the center of the Old Town. There, cobblestone streets are lined by elegant multistory 15th and 16th century houses, the town hall tower and onionshaped cathedral domes. Some of the Renaissance and Baroque buildings today house cafes and
souvenir shops, but even those nods in the direction of modern commercialism cant hide their graceful facades. The most famous and photographed highlight is the Goldenes Dachl (Golden Roof), a
Innsbruck
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Austria
No picture postcard can compete with the breathtaking visions that wait around every curve of the road and step along a hiking trail.
graceful third-story balcony built in 1420 onto what was Emperor Maximilians Innsbruck residence. Covered by more than 2,600 gilded copper tiles that glisten in the sun, it served as a royal box from which to
view tournaments and festivities in the square below. Along with its architectural riches, museums and other treasures, Innsbruck provides a perfect home base for excursions into the
surrounding countryside. The area may be explored during day trips from Innsbruck, or by overnighting at one or more small towns, including 25 nearby holiday villages. Accommodations include hotels, bed-and-breakfast facilities and farmhouses that welcome guests. Driving throughout the compact region is easy, on well-paved and clearly marked roads. An alternative is the public transportation system,
which includes postal buses, trains and cable cars that provide easy and inexpensive access throughout the area. The rst impression of the Tyrolean villages deals with their similarities. A graceful church usually occupies a central position. Traditional alpine houses made of pine weathered to a rich, dark patina, and sporting balconies festooned with an explosion of
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colorful ower stands adjacent to rambling farmhouses up to 500 years old that were enveloped as the towns grew around them. Ubiquitous roadside crosses and religious paintings adorning the sides of many buildings are among tangible signs of strong Catholic inuence. More enticing to me were lovely miniature places of worship, often built and used by several neighbors. Many of these tiny chapels, most with only four to eight narrow pews, were built during times of plague, when people sought convenient places at which to pray for their lives and for the souls of the dead. Delving more deeply into the essence of each village, I began to discern subtle yet intriguing
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dierences. Seeeld, a town of about 4,000 residents, is only a 15-minute ride outside Innsbruck up a winding, hilly road. Of special interest is the Baroque Seekirchl Church, with its eight little pews. The hamlet of Igls helped to launch the areas tourism business beginning in the 1920s. The focus then, as now, was on health and the clear air that visitors come to breath. Little Lans is known for having several good restaurants, and for a lake area where locals gather to swim, sun and socialize. Gasse, one of 22 towns in the Lautasch Valley, is easy to miss. Home to about three dozen families, it oers a miniature introduction to some of the lifestyle attractions that
Austria
visitors to the Tyrol nd so appealing. My memories include mailboxlike structures in front of some homes that are used by residents to deposit a note with their order for fresh bread, which the local baker leaves the next morning. Little huts clinging near mountaintops, I learned, serve as temporary homes for men who summer there tending the communitys cows, sheep and goats
that graze on the steep slopes. I can still picture tiny chapels, which I found as moving and marvelous in their way as the most elaborate cathedral. And whenever and wherever I hike, I also remember Wolfgang Wipplers wise words of advice. As I walk, slowly of course, I conjure up countless images of the Tyrolean area of Austria in all of its beauty and charm.
Golden Roof
Victor Block is an award-winning travel journalist who has visited and written about destinations throughout the United States and in more than 70 countries around the world. He is a guidebook author and former state editor for Fodors Travel Guides. He belongs to the Society of American Travel Writers, North American Travel Journalists Association, and Travel Journalists Guild.
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Italy
The Definitive
Milan Checklist
To Book Hotels in Milan, CLICK HERE
You might suspect that a visit to Milan is viable only for those who have money to burn and a superior attitude. However, those restricted to a budget will nd plenty to do in Milan. Many of the cultural attractions are free to enjoy and you can always root out a bargain meal if
By Stephanie Sheehan
you look in the right neighbourhood. There are designer shops and swanky bars if you like that thing, but Milan will surprise you with its locals enjoying a good bargain at the market and friendly venues that encourage good conversation and unpretentious dancing!
Nightlife
Milans nightlife might not be what youd expect. Its not all ashy bars with guest lists, strict dress codes and over-priced cocktails. Whilst indeed you can nd places like this to see-and-be-seen in Milan, the citys locals prefer to start a night with a
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tasty meal in a cosy and fun venue with plenty of wine and music to help along the conversation and dancing. Happy hour starts at 6pm or 7pm and goes on till 9.30pm. In Milan this time is known as aperitivo, the highlight of the evening, with everyone getting into the spirit of things early. A great place to start your evening is the Navigli area. Famed for its two canals, here you can admire the nightlife and restaurant lights from one of the lively bars that line the waterways.
Navigli
Milan Duomo
on a tight budget. However, there are many exciting cultural attractions you can visit for free in Milan to get a real sense of the citys character.
and balconies all contributing to the grand atmosphere. The most stunning element of the building through is its immense glass dome ceiling denitely worth a visit even if your budget wont stretch to buying anything here; the photos of the building will make a great souvenir. Escape the chilly winter weather with a visit to the famous Milan Duomo the citys iconic cathedral. Entry is free (although a tour of the Treasury costs 1).
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Free things to do
Milans exclusive reputation often means people write it o as a destination to avoid visiting if youre
Italy
Milan is best known for da Vincis Last Supper, but its free to visit the artists other great artwork, the Leonardo da Vinci Horse. This enormous horse sculpture is the worlds biggest bronze horse statue and is based on designs Leonardo made in the late 15th century.
Village. This outlet shopping village has a number of designer labels at cut prices. The Mercatone del Naviglio Grande monthly market takes place along the canals in Navigli on the last Sunday of each month (save July). The atmosphere is hectic but exciting and youll nd independent stalls selling home wares, furniture and unique antiques.
Shopping
With magnicent shopping arcades, established markets and futuristic malls, whether you are a collector of high fashion or prefer to root out vintage treasures, the shops in Milan provide something to suit all tastes.
Food
If you prefer delights of the culinary kind, Milan oers plenty of markets and delis to satisfy curious foodies.
Top shops
The Armani superstore on Via Manzoni has everything you need to turn your home into a mini Armani universe, with Armani outlets for jeans, furniture, art, books and even owers. If the price tags of the uberexpensive designer stores make your eyes water, take a trip to Fidenza
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North of Corso Magenta, Mercato Comunale is Milans biggest daily fresh food market. The market is held undercover in Piazza Wagner and the market is an explosion of noise and colour. The stalls are lled with local produce, from fruits, owers and vegetables to smoked meats, cheeses, fresh seafood and pastas of all shapes. Peck, a multi-storey delicatessen on Via Spadari, is something of an institution in Milan. Its the best place in the city to nd a massive choice of cured meats, cheeses and plenty of oils and vinegars to take home as a reminder of your Italian visit. On the rst oor youll nd a caf where you either relax over
a coee or cocktail or indulge in a platter of cheese or cold cooked meats. The lower oor is a wine lovers paradise with hundreds of bottles from local and international estates. For shoppers with a sweet-tooth, LAntica Arte del Dolce on Via Anfossiis a favourite for anyone needing a sugar x. Translated as The Ancient Art of Sweet, the shops shelves of biscuits, chocolates, cakes, jams and tarts tempt in passers-by, with everything being made fresh in store by skilled pastry chefs. Try something safe and traditional or opt for something a bit more left-eld such as their aubergine and chocolate mousse.
If you go
Flights to Milan only take an hour and forty minutes from London City Airport, starting at under 170 for a return ticket. To book, go to - http:// www.londoncityairport. com/TravelAndBooking/ DestinationMapFor/LIN Short on time? Discover more attractions in Milan with a 24 hour itinerary guide to the citys best restaurants and other attractions. Go to http://www. londoncityairport.com/home/ page/MilanGuide
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Beginners Guide
Beginners Guide
EuroTravels
BEGINNERS GUIDE TO
Turkey
on the oor and low copper tables or sit at an outdoor cafe, but slow down, relax and enjoy. Tea is a good place to begin understanding how to visit Turkey. This is a land of relationships, where time sits still to permit you to go about getting to know your surroundings. Here, travelers are welcomed and greeted with both respect and curiosity. The antiquities, thermal pools, coastline and Turkish baths are all there waiting to be explored, but it is in the marketplace with the people that Turkey is best experienced, because it is there that the warmth and culture of this ancient civilization is authentically expressed. Besides the tea, here is a short list of must do experiences when you visit Turkey:
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Yes, the British and the Japanese have their tea customs and rituals, and I wouldnt want to take away from the special nature of either of those cultures. But if I had to choose where I would most like to have a cup of tea with the locals, it would be Turkey. Tea shops are a focal point for street level Turkish culture and most good things happen in the presence of a cup of ne Turkish tea. The Turkish people prefer the black tea (or Cay in Turkish) and it is at the center of daily life there, oered everywhere as a gesture of hospitality both before and after meals. Because the drink is served strong, it is typically oered in small cups, boiling hot. The locals drink it sweet, but with no milk, and cut to taste with additional hot water. Find a traditional setting with cushions
Beginners Guide
Experience a Hammam
The Turkish bath with its vigorous scrubbing, hot water and ambiance is an experience, a cultural episode that ranks with running with the bulls in Spain or a Thai massage. There are a number of historic Turkish baths in Istanbul and practically every city of any size.
Visit the covered bazaar The Grand Bazaar in Istanbul is one of the oldest and largest covered markets
anywhere in the world. Bargain like a friend and true traveler and you will nd many original and unique delights. This is the place to begin your search for the perfect rug, the tea set, the talisman to ward o the evil-eye. Again, this is the archetype of all shopping experiences.
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Beginners Guide
Beginners Guide
Explore the Lycian Tombs The sarcophagi, carved into the vertical
clis are dramatic and mysterious. The quality of the stone masonry, the originality of Lycian art and the visible detail after all of these centuries is remarkable. The tombs are often integrated into the daily commercial areas of the towns and markets, or visible from the water.
Visit Nemrut A UNESCO world heritage site, the colossal statues on the
top of Mountain of Nemrut in the north-east of Adiyaman are the tomb of King Antiochus I (69-38 B.C.). Turkey is not a destination to hurry through. Experience it slowly, like a ne cup of hot, black Turkish tea.
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Beginners Guide
EuroTravels
BEGINNERS GUIDE TO
Bavaria
Nuremberg
German kings liked to build their palaces in Nuremberg, once the unocial seat of the Holy Roman Empire. Nurembergs Hauptplatz comes alive with Germanys most famous Christmas market in December. Locally made foods include Lebkuchen and the Nrnberger Bratwurst. Explore the medieval Old Town (Altstadt), framed by city walls and the glorious Imperial Castle (Kaiserburg). Then pay a visit to the Reichsparteigelnde, a massive open area where the infamous Nazi Nuremberg Rallies of the 1930s were held.
Bavaria is Germanys biggest state with an area of 27,000 square miles accounting for about a fth of Germanys total area. Its in Germanys south-eastern quarter and has a population of about 12.5 million people. Munich is the capital city of Bavaria and is the third largest city in Germany but theres much more to Bavaria, Germany than just the capital city. The region begs to be explored and there are ten other cities most denitely worth a visit-each complete with an ornate castle, palace, or city hall, or sometimes all three!
Augsburg
Germanys second-oldest city, Augsburg, lies roughly halfway down the Romantic Road touring route. It came to prominence in the Middle-Ages under the lights of Jakob the Rich Fugger, a worldwide baron in global banking and trading. Most of Augsburgs landmark buildings are the work of architect Ellias Holl. Chief among them is the monumental Town Hall (Rathaus) and its showpiece Golden Hall (Goldener Saal). Another top attraction is the Fuggerei, the worlds oldest social housing settlement.
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Beginners Guide
Wrzburg
Wrzburg is a bustling university town on Bavarias northern border. Although over 90 percent of the city was destroyed in World War II it has since been lovingly restored. The city sits along the river Main and is the center of the famous Franconia wine region. Wrzburgs premier residence is a baroque palace aptly named the Residenz.
Regensburg
To picture Bavaria in the Middle Ages, visit Regensburg where the center of the town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It sits at the conuence of the Danube and Regen rivers, the former straddled by the humpbacked Stone Bridge. Its one of the most-loved cities in Bavaria and an easy day-trip from Munich. Take a cruise along the river or explore the Old Town with its maze of intertwined alleys centered around the twin-spires of St. Peters Cathedral.
Ingolstadt
Another age-old Danube city, Ingolstadt has history ranging from the tragic to the mysterious and to the futuristic. It was the birthplace of author Mary Shelley, author of Frankenstein. It was also the birthplace of the mysterious secret society known as the Illuminati, meaning Enlightened, which some theorize work a shadowy hand on the worlds governments and big business. Finally, Ingostadt is the headquarters of the Audi, the luxury car companys factory tour is well worth it even if you dont pick up a car to take home with you!
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Beginners Guide
Frth
Frth is often overlooked by visitors in favor of its big brother city, Nuremburg, given that the two are only a stones throw apart. Frth was a totally separate entity for much of its 1000+ year history and boasts a avor all of its own. Dont miss the grand municipal theater (Stadtheater) and the Jewish Museum. Little known fact: Frth once had the biggest Jewish population in southern Germany.
Erlangen
Another city close to Nuremburg, Erlangen is best known for the University of Erlangen-Nuremberg-a college town with broad, tree-lined streets. Major sites to see include Erlangen Castle which today houses the university administration, and the botanical gardens. Erlangens annual Bergkirchweih is a 12-day mini-Oktoberfest that takes place around Pentecost in May or June. Erlangen is one of the more overlooked larger cities in Bavaria.
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Beginners Guide
Bayreuth
Bayreuth is best known as the home of composer Richard Wagner, an artist worshiped by King Ludwig II and Hitler alike. The temple to Wagners works is the Bayreuth Festspielhaus and is the site of an annual showcase of the composers operas. Also worth a look is the expansive New Castle with an enviable collection of porcelain. But all in all, this is a top destination for classical music bus.
Bamberg
One of the most stunning smaller cities in Bavaria, Bamberg is often called the Franconian Rome because of its seven-hills. It also has a similarity to Venice with a network of canals and streams complete with tourist laden gondolas. A stroll up through the old town, past the town hall island to the magnicent cathedral and Neue Residenz will have even the most jaded travelers craning their necks in awe. And before leaving town, be sure to have a taste of their famous Rauchbier (a beer) which is a hearty ale with a bit of a bacon avor-sounds gross, but it very good!
Aschaffenburg
They dont call this town the Bavarian Nice for nothing. Replete with Mediterranean gardens, long alleys and a sunny climate perfect for tropical plants. Aschaenburg is tucked away in the areas northwestern corner and is a short trip to Frankfurt. As far as Bavaria goes, it is probably the most remote city of the region. Things to see here include the Schloss Johannisburg castle and the Pompejanum, a replica of a Pompeian palazzo built for King Ludwig I.
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Switzerland
ADVENTURES
SWISS
THE
OF SHERLOCK HOLMES
By James Ross It is, indeed, a fearful place. The torrent, swollen by the melting snow, plunges into a tremendous abyss, from which the spray rolls up like the smoke from a burning house. - Sir Arthur Conan Doyle
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Switzerland
I stand atop Reichenbach Falls and watch the raging waters tumble 120 metres into the black-rock chasm below. I listen to the booming roar of the water and feel the fresh spay on my face. My wife and I were touring Switzerland, passing by car from Interlaken to Lucerne, when I had insisted on a little detour near Meiringen to the site of the spectacular falls, the place where Holmes creator Sir Arthur Conan Doyle had tried to kill o his ctitious super-sleuth in the story The Adventure of the Final Problem.
The walking path along the cli-side might now be a little better maintained otherwise, I imagine, not much has changed from the scene that Conan Doyle described on May 4th, 1891. It was here that Sherlock Holmes met his arch-enemy, Professor Moriarty, and, after a erce ght, the two had purportedly fallen to their deaths. One would suspect that, had Holmes been as pugilistically adept as Robert Downey Jr. in the latest Holmes lm adaptations, he would have had little problem coping with an aging villain.
And perhaps he really didnt. Faced with a great public outcry, Conan Doyle was forced to alter his narrative plan and bring Holmes back from the abyss, back for further adventures on the pages of The Strand Magazine. He resurrected his nemesis by claiming that Holmes had managed to grab a tuft of grass during the fall into the dreadful cauldron and so had lived to solve another mystery. A memorial plaque at a viewpoint reminds visitors of the ctitious incident, and on May 4 every year, members of the international Sherlock Holmes
Reichenbach WaterFall
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Switzerland
Society make a pilgrimage to the falls to commemorate the death of their beloved hero. Even without its literary connection, the beauty and wildness of the waterfalls would make Reichenbach a worthwhile sidetrip. From a parking lot at the hotel below, a short trek accesses the three viewing terraces which oer
Sherlock Holmes and Professor Moriarty at the Reichenbach Falls
breath-taking views. A railway tram also transports visitors alongside the raging waters of the Reichenbach, to the uppermost waterfall. The charming Swiss town of Meiringen is, for many Holmes fans, a kind of Mecca. Set at the heart of the Hasliberg hiking region, the town has long been a favourite mountain walking resort. Sir Arthur
Conan Doyle stayed here many times, taking up residence at the Park Hotel Du Savage. This grand 1880s hotel still stands, retaining its romantic period charm. A plaque on the Victorian porch announces Conan Doyle as a guest. The author had, in fact, used the hotel as Holmes and Watsons lodging in his story, calling it the Englischer Hof. Near the hotel is Meiringens town square, refurbished in the 1980s and renamed Conan Doyle Place. A statue of Holmes sits contemplatively on a park bench, and the Sherlock Holmes Museum can be found in the basement of a quaint English Chapel. The centrepiece of the Museum is a life-size replica of the sitting room at
If you go
Switzerland Tourism
www myswitzerland.com.
Reichenbach Falls
info@reichenbachfall.ch and www.reichenbachfall.ch
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Switzerland
221B Baker Street, put together with scrupulous accuracy. Many items are strewn around, including Holmes violin, a bust of the detective used to decoy his enemies and a copy of The Times left on the oor in an attempt to convey the impression that Holmes and Watson had only moments before gone out. Another fabulous museum dedicated to Holmes was established by Sir Arthurs son, Adrian Conan Doyle, in the charming town of Lucens. Among the curiosities, one nds a small viper preserved in aspic, from the story The Speckled Band, a bust of Conan Doyle, a
deerstalker hat owned by Holmes illustrator Sidney Paget, and several of Pagets illustrations, including Holmes wrestling with Moriarty at the Reichenbach Falls. This museum concentrates as much on the writer as on the ctional sleuth. It might be fair to ask, other than being the background for one Holmes story, why is there such a fascination for the great detective here in Switzerland so far from his London home? Well, in a country renowned for its clockwork eciency, order and logic, the answer iselementary, my dear Watson.
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Desbert Wibsons
Grumbling Appendix
The grumpy old man of travel is back and as cantankerous and grouchy as ever.
proteering? I doubt it, unless you have the guts to complain and ask for a complimentary tea. More to the point, does it really matter?
eggy bread or gypsy toast - a dish of bread soaked in beaten eggs and then fried. It can be prepared with a pinch of salt, and then served with a ketchup or mayonnaise. The gourmet French have also given us the salad nicoise, named after Nice on the Cote dAzur, and normally prepared with tinned tuna, tinned anchovies, hard boiled eggs and other bits. The list goes on with Wiener Schnitzel, a very thin, breaded and deep fried slice of veal named in honour of Vienna. The Wiener Schnitzel is the national dish of Austria! So whats all about? Seems to me that the surprising answer is doing down the competition. The British were the rst to name American cheese, to distinguish it from the then superior and traditional European cheeses. The British also invented the Cote DAzur, so no doubt they are also responsible for the salad nicoise,
the ingredients of which could have been easily transported by horse from England. French toast is an American description of the ancient french method for using stale bread pain perdu - lost bread . And what about the schnitzel from Vienna? It rst appeared in German and Italian cookbooks. Notice a trend here? And why does no-one do the same for english food. The only example I can think of is what the French call creme anglaise which is actually custard. Maybe the answer is that the international reputation of english cuisine is historically so low that it doesnt need dumbing down.
Wiener Schnitzel
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