A

WINTER INTERNSHIP REPORT AT INDO COUNT INDUSTRIES KAGAL, KOLHAPUR

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MASTER OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY

(2011-2013) SUBMITTED BY NIHALKHAN S SIRAJBHAI CHETAN V TAJANE SUJIT S TELALWAR M F TECH SEM 2

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY GANDHINAGAR ( UNDER MINISTRY OF TEXTILES, GOI )

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ACKNOWLEDGMENT

Before I get into think of things, I would like to add heartfelt words for the people who were part of this training & project in numerous ways.

I am thankful to our course coordinator Mr.Pranav Vora Sir who has managed for our training in Indo Count Industries Kolhapur Maharashtra. And I am thankful to the persons of the company, who coordinated with the training officer to provide training in the company. In particular, I wish to thank Mr. Sanjay choudhary (general manager) for having faith on me for accomplishment of the training. I am also thankful to MR. Nitin Parule (HOD of Finishing) for his guidance through out the training period.

And finally heartfelt appreciation to those countless members of Indo Count who motivated us time to time to improve the value of the training.

NIHALKHAN S SIRAJBHAI CHETAN V TAJANE SUJIT S TELALWAR

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INDEX
1. INTRODUCTION 2. ORGANISATION CHART 3. GENERAL INFORMATION TO WEAVING 4. PROCESS SEQUENCE IN WEAVING DEPARTMENT 5. YARN TESTING 6. WARPING DEPARTMENT 7. WEAVING DEPARTMENT LOOMS SPECIFICATION 8. PASSAGE OF YARN IN LOOMS 9. AIR JET WEAVING 10.CAUSES AND REMEDIES 11.GREY INSPECTION 12.PROCESSING 13.SINGIENG AND DESIZING 14.BLEACHING PROCESS 15.MERCERISATION 16.COUSTIC RECOVERY PLANT 17.DYEING DEPARTMENT 18.PRINTING DEPARTMENT 19.FINISHING DEPARTMENT 20.R AND D, QUALITY CONTROL DEAPRTMENT 21.COSTING FOR VARIOUS FACTORS

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INTRODUCTION
Any business firm's true mettle would be judged by its performance during periods of economic recession. It is said that, 'when the going gets tough, the tough get going', this analogy, albeit somewhat cliched, very, aptly describes Indo Count Industries Limited. The plant is located at Kolhapur in South West of India, an area having a strong textile culture and is ideally placed in close proximity to India's cotton growing belt. Latest machines have been imported from Rieter, Schlafhorst, Volkmann, Mayer & Cie, Luwa and Uster. The investment in quality has paid rich dividends. As an ISO 9002 and 100% Export Oriented Unit, Indo Count's customer base has widely expanded and it has carved a brand presence in all the major markets like UK, Italy, Germany, Switzerland, Scandinavia, Israel, Canada, Chile, Japan and South Korea which are some of the many. Indo Count yarn is known as 'Rieter Yarn', a status which was conferred by Rieter Machine Works Ltd. This authorization was based on the Swiss company's appraisal that Indo Count's machinery is well maintained and that the quality levels are consistent. Better known as one of the prominent yarn manufacturers in the country, Indo Count Industries Ltd. is a name synonymous to success, innovation, quality, speed, consistency and technology. From spinning the finest cotton yarns, to specialized corespun yarns and then to varied knitted fabrics, we always have done it all with lank and expertise. We now celebrate our success by expanding our gamut of operations with setting up a manufacturing unit for world-class home textiles. Indo Count is proud to present "Home Textiles Division" - A novel beginning to yet another saga of success. The project commences its operations in MAY 2006. Infrastructure The "Home Textiles Division" will be completely geared up with the following:
o

Top of the line Manufacturing unit spread across 44 acres of land in Kolhapur (Western India) which is well connected by air and sea 128 state-of-art weaving machine (ZAX9100 air jet loom) from TSUDAKOMA -one of the leading machine makers in the world for wider width fabric supported with Benninger Warping and Sizing machines

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Completely automatic continuous Processing Unit from Benninger, Osthoffand Monforts with a capacity of 1,00,000 meters/day

16 Color Printing Machine Modern in-house stitching unit with 300 JUKI Stitching machines, automatic Spreading and Layering. This unit has a capacity of stitching and sewing16000 sheet sets/day Top of the line fabric testing laboratory to check and deliver the best quality products to our customers A professional team with more than 1500 workforce

Quality Control Quality is the ultimate key to success for any organization. Indo Count recognizes this, and over the years has received several accolades from the world over for its consistency and superior quality standards. It has been our continuous endeavour to upgrade with the changing times. The Home Textiles Division follows the same tradition. The quality standards that will be followed by us are: Setting of a state-of-the-art laboratory with instruments like Data Color(Spectrophotometer) for color matching and James H Heal instruments for testing various properties of fabric Use of finest quality of yarn available in the market to manufacture greige fabric, and then processing it in one of the best processing machines of the world Stringent inspection: Each and every yard of the fabric is inspected by our inspectors before sending it for stitching Certifications from organizations like ISO, BIS and WRAP with complete compliance on social and environmental norms

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We are also having Mathies Pad - Dry, Pad Steam Wash & Steamer for E-control Dyeing

Product Range The range of products manufactured by us in 100% cotton as well as cotton blend are:
o o o o o o

Bed Sheet Sets Pillow Cases Duvet covers Comforters Window Covering Hospital Linen

We offer sateen as well as percale woven fabric in solids, stripes and dobby design from medium to high thread counts. We are also planning to install 24 jacquard looms in the second phase.

Percale weave:Percale or Percalcos is a closely woven plain-weave fabric often used for bed covers. The term describes the weave of the fabric, not its content, so percale could be a blend of 50% cotton and 50% polyester, 100% cotton, or a blend of other fabrics in any ratio.] A percale weave has athread count of about 200 or higher, and is noticeably tighter than the standard type of weave used for bed-sheets. It has medium weight, is firm and smooth with no gloss, and warps and washes very well. It is made from both carded and combed yarns. Percale fabrics are made in both solid colors and printed patterns. The finish of the fabric is independent of its weave, so it can be either printed or unprinted. 6|Page

Sateen, not to be confused with satin[1][2], is a type of fabric often found in bed sheets.

Grey cotton sateen used to line a cape Sateen is usually applied to cotton, or sometimes rayon. Better qualities are mercerized to give a higher sheen. Some are only calendered to produce the sheen but this disappears with washing and is not considered genuine sateen. Sateen may be bleached, dyed, or printed. It is difficult to make good bound buttonholeson it as it has a tendency to slip at the seams. Sateen produces the sheen and softer feel through the use of a different structure in the weaving process. The sateen structure is four over, one under, placing the most threads on the surface, making it extremely soft, though slightly less durable than other weaves. Standard non-sateen weaves use a one-over, one-under structure. Satin also uses this structure; however, materials such as silk, polyester, etc., are used instead of cotton. Sateen was also used for Vintage dress shirts and other Vintage type clothes.

GROWTH OVERVIEW FOR INDO COUNT INDUSTRIES LTD:The future looks very bright for Indo Count as we'll be increasing our cotton yarn and fabric business by 15% per annum.

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Above graphical representation shows the contineoyus growth of the Indo Count Industries. ORGANISATION CHART:-

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PRODUCTION QUANTITY PER DEPARTMENT:BLEACHING PRODUTION : 50,000 TO 60,000 M/DAY

DYEING PRODUCTION

55,000 TO 65,000 M/DAY

PRINTING PRODUCTION

30,000 TO 35,000 M/DAY

FINISHING PRODUCTION

50,000 TO 80,000 M/DAY

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GENERAL INFORMATION OF WEAVING

Machines:a) Rewinding Machine : 01 b) Warping Machine c) Sizing Machine d) Looms e) Grey inspection f) Mending machine : 02 : 01 : 128 : 03 : 06

Makes of machines:1. Rewinding Machine :- Peass Mettler ,India. 2. Warping Machine 3. Sizing Machine 4. Looms 5. Knotting machine 6. Mending machine :Counts running : Warp : 40s , 60s , 80 s Weft Weaves : Plain Satin 1cm stripe 2 stripe : 120s , 100s , 60s , 80s , 40s. ::::Benninger Bendirect, Switzerland. Benninger Zell Bensizetech, Germany. Tsudakoma ZAX 9100 professional, Japan. Staubli ( Topmatic ) TPM 201-PC.. Almac, India.

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Export Companies Daily Production End uses Humidification plant No. of compressors Air compressors

: - Walmart, metro, pimlico, bento ecolite : - Loom 23000 mt/day :- Bed sheet, pillow cover, curtain, sofa cover.. :- Luwa, India :- 4 :-Atlas Copco, India .

PROCESS SEQUENCE :
Warping Sizing Drawing-in Weaving Grey fabric inspection SUPPLYER : Nahar. Indocount. Spincot. Kallam. Prassunna.

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WARPING
OBJECT : To form continuous sheet of single yarn which is taken from pre determined no. package. To place individual yarn from all the package uniformly across the width. The entire end in the sheet should wound at uniform tension. Density of wound beam should be uniform across the width.

MACHINE TYPE Warping m/c = Benninger Ben direct. AG , CH-9240 = = = 2007 Switzerland 2

Machine Type = Year Made in No. of M/c

TECHNICAL INFORMATION 1. M/c designation :- Ben direct beaming m/c . 2. Model 3. Useful width :- stationary . :- ZS 800:1400,1600,1800, 2000,2200,2400 mm. ZS1000 : 1400,1600,1800,2000,2200,2400 mm. 4.Operating speed : 300 1200 m/m

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SIGNAL IDENTIFICATION SR. NO. 1 2 3 Orange Red Orange alternatively 4 Orange Flashes during the mode of operation package transport Yarn break indicator ( LHS or RHS ) +Red Creel is in the setting-up mode this means that break are open when the m/c is on stop position. +Red Creel is in complete beaming mode this means that the yarn stop motion is not active. Sound with start of package transport. COLOUR INDICATION

simultaneously 5 Horn

FEATURE OF M/C 1) Three phase drive 2) beam centering & driving 3) Yarn guidance. 4) Warp end uncrossing device. 5) Pressing system. 6) Pressure roller kick back. 7) Disc brakes. 8) Constant Yarn tension. 9) Electronic length measurement. 10) Horizontal & vertical comb motion. 11) Motorized comb shift & adjustment. 12) Automatic wind /wind zone protector. 13) Automatic beam lifting in & out . 14) Control. 15) Safety bar. 16) Operative protection. 17) Operational reliability.

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MAINTAINANCE SR NO. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 CLEANING General cleaning Lubricating quills Cleaning /lub. Traope zoidal threaded spindle Check warp beam Clg/ lub. Comb traverse chain Greasing pressure device cylinder Oil change Replacing oil filter Inspecting / replacing brakes pad Brake test Replacing v belt Checking beam clamping axial play Replacing gear box Check wind /un wind zone protector General cleaning Checking oil level Checking screwed connection Checking fitting pipe Checking drive belt General cleaning Replacing pressure roller bearing Replacing guide roller bearing Replacing the quill bearing Replacing brake caliper Replacing serrated cones FREQUENCY

1000 HOUR

5000 HOUR

100 HOUR

10000 HOUR

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TYPE OF CREEL

V Shaped creel is used. Capacity of creel is 1088 cones. Tensioning rod is used to give tension to the yarn on m/c end break stop motion fitted for these light sensors are used.

Capacity of creel

= 1088 cones

Cones in one column = 8 Total column 68 x 8 = 68 = = 544 one side 544 x 2

= 1088 cones Stop Motion Photoelectric type Each stop indicates place of break which increase efficiency. Creel Angle 3200

CREEL SPESIFICATION 1) 2) 3) 4) 5) 6) 7) 8) Modular construction with v-shape creeling package. Automatic package transport. Controllable yarn tensioning devices. Cutting device. Tensioner blow out. Balloon separator. Anti snarling device. Electronic yarn stop motion.

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Types of Comb Zigzag comb is used in warping according to ends in beam diff.

combs are used.

Transportation of beam In warping for transportation of beam hydraulic pallet hand trolley is used. Work Load Operator Reliever Creel boy Total 2 5 workers / shift 2 1

WARPING PROGRAMME FORMULAE Total No. of Ends. NO. OF BEAM = -------------------------------Creel capacity X ( EVEN).

Total No. of Ends. NO. OF END/ BEAM = -------------------------------No. of Beam = Y ( EVEN).

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 CALCULATED TOTAL END

= NO. OF BEAM X NO. OF END/BEAM = X X Y = Z

EXTRA END = CALCULATED TOTAL END TOTAL NO. OF END . STANDARD SETTING M/C NO Count Speed Pretensioner start up delay (sec) Brake start up delay (sec) 3 3 3 2 2 2 Pretensioner Tension (mm) Drum Tension (DaN)

40/1 1 60/1 80/1 40/1 2 60/1 80/1

800 700 600 800 700 600

4 4 4 3 3 3

7 5 4 6 4 3

180 180 180 200 200 200

Production / Shift = Speed x 60 x 8 x m/c eff. = 600 x 60 x 8 x 65 % = 187200 Mts./Shift.

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Breakages in warping 1 Slubs 2 Weak Place 3 Splice slippage 4 Foreign Matter 5 Contamination 6 Cone entanglement 7 Wild Yarn 8 Cut on Cone 9 Sticky Yarn Faults in Warping Beam 1 Lapper 2 Cut ends 3 Loose ends 4 Tight ends

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SIZING
OBJECT : To improve weavability of warp yarn. To improve abrasion resistance of the yarn. To reduce the hairiness of the yarn. To reduce the generation of the static charge for polyester blends yarn.

To improve breaking strength of cellulose yarn.

Technical Specification of m/c. :M/c. manufacturer No. of m/c. M/c. No. Year Made in Maximum Speed Maximum temp. Benninger 1 30/6580040 2006 Switzerland 135 mts / min 1500 c to cyl.

M/c. Data
A. Creel :1) Creel Parallel creel is used. 2) Creel capacity is 28 beams 3) Automatic creel change, double creel is available. 4) Pneumatic loading for beam. 5) For loading and unloading separate m/c. is used (crane / hoist m/c.) 6) Advantage of double creel is waste reduced & time saving

B. Saw box :
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1) Two saw boxes are used on m/c. 2) Two dip and two nip system used in saw box. 3) Size level sensor used in saw box to control size level in saw box.

C. Drying system :1) Cylinder drying system is used 2) Total cylinder 12 ( 8 Drying + 4 Cooling ) 3) All Teflon coated 4) Maximum Temp. 1500C 5) Drying Capacity 3.5 Kg/m DRYING ZONE 1ST ZONE 2ND ZONE 3RD ZONE 4TH ZONE TEMPERATURE (DEGREE) 130 130 110 00 NO. OF CYLINDER 4 4 2 2

Temp. of cylinder depends upon no. of ends and count of the yarn.

E. Expanding Comb :1) V shape Zigzag comb used.

2)

Width of comb is adjusted according to no. of end .

F. Warp tension & stretch :Controlled regularly in the respective zones by individual drive given to the m/c.

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G. Width of m/c :i. Max. : 133.85 inch ii. Min . : 152.3 inch

H. Leasing :1) Capacity of lease rod 27 2) Arrangement of leasing is straight 3) Material used for leasing is steel rod. 4) Lease rods should be polished and its surface must be smooth.

MIXING OF SIZE PASTE :-

1) For mixing the Mixing cooker is clean by water 2) At the start of mixing procedure keep the 165 lit. water in Mixing cooker & then take the water level which we have to be require, For, 80s : 9.5 inch 60s : 19.5 inch 40s : 19.5 inch 3) After this add various chemical in sequence which are required . 4) Elvanol is sticky material so it is add at the time cooking when transferring this chemical from mixer to cooker 5) In the cooking procedure temp. Maintain is about 130 degree . 6) For getting homogeneous mixing stirrers is rotated in the cooker. 7) Keeping the paste in cooker for 15 min this cooked paste will be transferred to storage tank. 8) Capacity of various tank , 1. Mixer = 1200 lit. 2. Cooker = 1200 lit. ( 1 inch = 30 lit. )

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3. Storage tank = 1200 lit. 4. Supply tank = 1200 lit. 9) Steam pressure = 6 bar 10) In the sizing dead loss is 20 %

MIXING SEQUENCE OF SIZE RECIPE : WATER STARCH BINDER SOFTNER ANTISEPTIC

CHEMICAL NAME STARCH : - Sicoflex, Plystron, Carbojet. BINDER :- PVA 9050, Refbinder,Sicofilm640/ 350, Mirasize. SOFTNER :- Sico-12, Miralube, Seycolube. ANTISEPTIC :- Seycolube.

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PROPERTIES STARCH : Good adhesion Good compatibility with alkali Non foaming Desizing by enzyme Biodegradable

BINDER: Water soluble Good adhesion Film formation Elasticity Desizing with enzyme Little dust evolved

SOFTNER: Good flexibility. Good smoothness.

ANTISEPTIC: Prevention from bacteria.

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Effect of one sort recipe is used for another sort :Ex. Used 60s recipe to 80s count Effects are as follows ; 1) Recipe is Prepared upon condition of fabric like a. Width of the Fabric b. End or picks per inch. c. No. of selvedge and body ends. d. Wt.. Basis like grams / Meters. 2) Recipe is also prepared as per yarn reports like a. Hairiness of the yarn b. Average Count 3) IF we used 60s recipe to 80s count a. produced chances of soft sizing or over sizing 4) 5) 7) Also strength as well as binding are not get proper. Also chances of less pick up % . Above all reasons effect on the loom shed Efficiency of loom shed is low Produce defective fabric Warp breakage rate is height Also create a chances of ball formation due to shift sizing Production is less & more time required to exhaust beam

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Sizing Mixing for Different Count

Chemical name

80s In kg

80s In kg 25 75 12.5 08 04 0.5 13 16 16 18 9.5

60s In kg 150 30 10 12 06 0.5 13 16 14 16 11

cvc60s In kg 25 75 23 08 05 06 0.5 14 18 14 16 11

40s In kg 150 15 20 07 30 10 12 06 0.5 13 16 14 16 11

Plystran C Carbojet LV Sicoflex 100 Elvanol T-66 Elvanol T-9050 Mirasize CE Sicofilm 350 Elvanol 71-30 Seycofilm PE 640 Refbinder PA 555 Sico 12 Seycolube 3905 Fibrosol PS 30 RF Viscosity Pick up % Water level In.

100 15 20 04 0.5 13 16 16 18 9.5

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Water level : 1 Water level in storage 1 Water level in cooker Technical data : 1) Sizing creel capacity : 28 Beam x 2 movable 2) Maximum working width : 340 cm & min. 152.5 cm 3) Creel working width : 2400 mm 4) Maximum flange diameter : 1016 mm 5) Pneumatic control break system on sizing creel 6) No of drying cylinder : 12 7) No. of saw boxes : 02 with wet splitting device ( 2 dip 2 nip) 8) Speed limit : 0.4 125 m/min = = 30 liters 30 liters

worker / shift : Back sizer : 01 Front sizer : 01 Size mixer : 02 Total : 04

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Maintenance Program : No. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 General cleaning Spraying on Immersion Rollers Drying cylinder chain Arbour shaft & gear Feed roller & squeeze roller gear box Beam carriage motors gear Arbour gear change Doffing loading & unloading gear Drag roller gear box Size Circulation motor gear Immersion roller Helical gears Feed roll. & Squeeze roll. Nipple grease Cleaning Frequency Daily Weekly Weekly 3 Month 3 Month 3 Month Yearly Yearly Yearly Yearly Yearly Yearly

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Sizing causes and there reasons Cause Ball formation Size patch Cut ends Sticky ends More end break Reasons Soft size or less pick up % More pick up % Beam pressing is more Under drying Soft pick up, over drying

Fault

Cause

Remedies

Warp breakage due to Nip or slubs from the spinning or Optimize the operations in the weak spot in the yarn winding departments Thread guides worm Warp breakage due to signal loose threads Warp mended breakage spinning or winding depart. Check the thread guide and replace them if necessary incorrectly Mend the warp breakage

carefully in the spinning & warping department.

Thread entanglement

Warp tension too low Size liquor too viscous

Check warp tension Check the cooking instruction & the cooking time for the size in manuf. data sheet

Warp breaks & adhering to the roller & thus

winding around them

Stretches of warp having been Engage dead slow drive mode stationary in the size box when changing warp beam & mending broken threads

Roller licking, increased The

rubber

covering

on

the Regrind the squeeze roller or if

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warp breakage in areas squeeze rollers are defective & increase warp yarn nippiness

necessary replace them

The Teflon coating on the guide Check Warp breaks due to

Teflon

coating

&

if

rollers or drying cylinders are necessary damaged The temperature of the drying cylinder is to low cylinder Check the

replase

drying

warp sheet adhering to the drying cylinders

cylinder

heating

system & steam traps roller on the Regrind the roller or replace if

Warp breaks near the The

feeding

edges due to threads headstock is worn or polished in necessary being under too high a the middle tension Warp breaks due to the Foreign material ( e. g. thread Clean all part of the system in gaps between comb waste or full ) the vicinity of the warp sheet. Clean the expanding comb. Check whether warp sheet can pick up fluff in production line& clean. Warp breakage due to The split rods are too near Check the dry dividing zone, the separation being too together in the dry dividing zone small rearranging the split rods if necessary Stretches we were stationary or Avoid whenever possible Warp breaks due to over drying in dead slow drive mode during sizing Too little residual moisture Increase residual moisture

dent becoming blocked

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Standard in sizing : 1) Size Waste % : 0 0.4 %

2) Unsize Waste % : 0.8 1 % 3) Loading & unloading for 20 beams: 2 hour 30 min. 4) For one beam : 5 7 min 5) Threading of Creel to headstock : 65 70 meters 6) For preparing mixing: 15 30 min.

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WEAVING

TEMPERATURE OF WEAVING ROOM HUMIDITY OF WEAVING ROOM Specification : Model no. Make No. of M/c. Shed 1 Shed 2 M/c. width M/c. speed Req. pressure Consumption of air Avg. efficiency Avg. production Type of selvedge -

: 26.20 C : 82.3 %

ZAX 9100 Professional

Tsudakoma 128

64 M/C 64 M/C 3400 mm Up to 600 rpm. 6.5 bar

45- 70 cfm 80 % 23000 mt / Day leno, Tuck-in

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PASSAGE OF YARN :WARP WAY Weaver beam Whip roll ( 2 roll ) Drop pin Heald shaft Profile reed Temple Take up roller Press roller Pressure rod Cloth roller WEFT WAY Weft package Leaf Tensioner Sensor Thread guide Prewinder Needle ( Feeder ) WBS Auxiliary nozzle Main nozzle Cutter Sub nozzle Cutter H 1 Feeler Stretch nozzle H 2 Feeler

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FABRIC SORTS RUNNING ON In this mill there are diff. construction, they are follows.

Warp count x Weft count Construction = --------------------------------------- x Reed space ( Weave ) EPI X ( PPI X Insertion )

Sr no. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13

Construction 40 x 60 / 136 x 106x1 60 x 60 / 164 x 62x 2 60 x 80 / 178 x 108x1 60 x 60 / 175 x 58x2 80 x 80 / 205 x 90x2 80 x 80 / 225 x 80x2 60 x 80 / 175 x 70x3 80 x 100 / 212 x 75x3 80 x 100 / 212 x 71x3 80 x 100 / 205 x 90x3 80 x 100 / 196 x 93x3 80 x 100 / 205 x 96x4 80x120 / 225 x 92x8

Width 125.2 124.2 125.2 125.2 123.2 123.2 124.2 125.2 125.2 124.2 124.2 123.2 123.2

Weave Plain cvc percale Plain Cocoon stripe Satin Satin 5mm Pin stripe Plain Plain Damask stripe Damask stripe Mini check Satin

TC 240 300 300 300 400 400 400 450 450 500 500 600 1000

THREAD COUNT ( TC ) It is important term used in only sheeting weaving only Tc = EPI + ( PPI X INSERTION )

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Air Jet Weaving :

In this types of weaving the filling yarn is inserted into the warp shed with the help of compressed air. For this compressor is essential. The compressed air is passed through nozzle to inject the filling into the shed. Advantage ; 1) High production. 2) Low initial outlay & simple operation. 3) High filling insertion. 4) Low noise & vibration level. 5) Reliability & min. maintenance. 6) Low space requirement. Prewinder : The weft yarn is drawn off the package & wound onto measuring band 2 by the rotation motion of yarn guide tube. The pick length is depends upon the width of fabric. The pick length is set by adjusting the measuring band & the number of coil. The electromagnetically control needle which release the weft yarn at the machine angle set. Sensor is used for control the no. of coil to be unwound. Reserve coil adjusted by navy board. Filling Tensioner : Filling Tensioner is necessary to ensure most uniform yarn tension between bobbin stand & Prewinder drum so ensuring absolute uniform tension under filling yarn winding without loop formation. Benefits : Decrease in balloon formation between bobbin & Prewinder No loop formation as yarn pulled taut in event of Prewinder stop.

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Balloon breaker : Generally it is observed that closer the Prewinder to breaker smaller the yarn balloon. Balloon breaker is located no more than 120 mm from Prewinder winding disc. Nozzle :On this machine Four nozzles are used : 1) Fixed Auxiliary nozzle is designed for bringing filling yarn up to speed & to offer previously drawn filling yarn from Prewinder to movable main nozzle. 2) Main nozzle is necessary to assist the fixed main nozzle in presenting the filling yarn to air jet tunnel reed. 3) Sub nozzle is blown simultaneously & pushes weft yarn forward. 4) Stretch nozzle used for straightening the incoming weft yarn during beat up. Reed : In this weaving machine profile reed is used. The profile shape produces the tunnel for the passage of the air & weft through the shed. Because of this it is possible to insert the weft in taut condition & thus abrasion on the warp end is reduced and misplacement of warp of warp ends between lamellae which cause fabric defect. The reed used of TAKAYAMA ,Japan. Company. Reed available : 34,36, 40,42,44,48,52,58,64. Total no. motors on loom : Main motor - 1 Let-off motor - 1 Take up motor Leveling motor TOTAL - 1 - 1 = 4

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Specification : 1. Main motor : Used for Shedding mechanism, Backrest, Beat up, Tuck in device. 2. Let-off motor : Used for Let off motion. 3. Take up motor : Used for take up motion, Tension rod. 4. Leveling motor : Used for Levelling of heald frame. Filling detectors : Here two filling detectors are used. 1) H 1 feeler 2) H 2 feeler First checks arrival of filling yarn at RH Side. Second checks too long or broken filling yarn at RH side. Main function of 1st detector is control of arrival of filling yarn at RH side of machine & transmission of arrival time data to microprocessor. Main function of 2nd detector is no make machine stop when it detects a filling yarn i.e. it indicates that either the filling is broken or inserted filling is too long. They are working on principle of interruption of a light of beam (refractor & emitter) Warp let off motion : Positive let off motion with separate servo motor is used it is possible to vary the let off motor according to pick density required. Take up motion : Positive take up motion with separate servo motor is used it is possible to vary the let off motor according to pick density required. For maintain constant tension clutch is used.

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LIGHT IDENTIFICATION A. Red : Blink : Trouble occurs Light : When loom is stopped B. Blue : Blink : Sensitivity of the feeler head is defective Feeler off is selected on the navy board Light : Loom is stopped by the feeler C. Orange : Blink : Sensor off is selected on the navy board Quick Blink : Loom is stopped by the leno sensor Loom is stopped by catchchord sensor Light : Loom is stopped by the dropper D. Green : Blink : the set time in the doffing notice comes blowing out occurs in one pick insertion Quick Blink : Levelling device is abnormal Filling insertion pattern data is sent from memory card E. All light : Once: checking that all lamp work when main switch is start Repeatedly: Levelling device is in operation

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Temple :Generally choice of temple depend on following things 1) Type of fabric weave 2) Type of material cotton, wool, filament etc. 3) Count 4) Contraction (Influenced by material, pattern, wind-up tension & machine) 5) Woven width of fabric 6) Type of weaving machine air jet, rapier, Etc. Shedding : The shedding was done with help of Dobby & cam motion.

No of test : Count ( warp & weft ) EPI x PPI Grey width in cms. GSM ( Gsm/ sq. meter ) Tear strength WP/ WFT ( lbs ) FORMULAE : 1. Thread count ( TC ) = EPI + ( PPI X INSERTION )

Total cmpx x 100000 x 100 2. Loom Efficiency ( %) = -----------------------------------------RPM x 60 x time in hour

RPM x 60 x 24 x eff. 3. Loom production ( m/day ) = -----------------------------------PPI x 39.37

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4. GSM

Weight of circle/ square ( 10 cm dia. ) x 100 ( GSM = grams per square meter. )

Total weft breakage x 10000 5. WEFT CMPX = --------------------------------------Total picks x produced ( CMPX :- No. of stops per 100000 picks )

Total warp breakage x 10000 6. WARP CMPX = --------------------------------------Total end x produced

CAUSES AND REMEDIES Classification of faults There are three types of faults or damage 1) M/c. related 2) Operator related 3) Material related M/C Related : Thick / Thin Place Starting mark Crack Single pick Broken pick Bumping mark

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 Hole Float Snarls Loose pick Let off mark Reed mark Temple Mark Temple Cut Temple Crack Bad selvedge Lasing in Readiness Center support mark Wrong weft. Operator Related : Wrong denting Wrong drawing Miss pick Broken pick Stain (oil) Hand Press Material Related : Size Patch Yarn variation Contamination

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Cause and Remedies 1) Crack Improper Mechanical and microprocessor setting C.B.R. Position, D. B. Position, Shed angle, Shed height temple setting and tension etc. Let. Off and take up Motion. 2) Single Pick/Broken Pick Faulty PD, improper pressure setting and improper shed height and angle. 3) Bumping Mark :Improper setting of B. R. height and D.B. height shed angle and height and temple setting and improper construction. 4) Hole :Improper shed gentry and crossing point of shed and tension. 5) Float :Faulty warp stop motion low size pick up excess hairiness in yarn. 6) Snarls :Improper insertion calculation. For improper conditioning of yarn. (weft) for improper humidity. Foreign material and moisture in air improper m/c. setting. 7) Loose pick :-Improper m/c. setting, pft cutter improper air pressure. 8)Let off mark Defective sensor Foreign material on emery roller.

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9) SM / thick and thin places Improper setting of B. R. height and D.B. height shead angle, foreign material on emery roller. Improper temple setting Take up gear and let off gear dirty. Reed Mark Damage dent, lint bow between dent loose dent Temple Mark Improper setting of temple worn out ring. Temple cut Improper shed geometry defective ring improper temple setting worn out ring. Nozzle Mark Improper shed geometry. Temple Crack Improper temple setting. 1 Bad selvage : Types of bad selvage Loopy sel. Wavy Sel. Inside sel. Tail ends (sel. Whisker) Sel. Burst Narrow sel. Wider sel. Sel float Thick sel. Thin sel

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2 Bad Selv. Defective density programme Defective sel. View. Defective Sel. View Improper talking in setting Defective cutter Improper insertion calculation Improper Shed geometry Improper temple setting Total ancillary Worker : Weaver : 146 Knotter : 11 Getter Total : 27 Maintenance: 11 : 195

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GREY INSPECTION

The production of the Grey inspection department per shift of 08hour shift is around 4000 meters. The one machine consists of 9 tubes light for checking of the fabric. The Grey Inspection machines used are :1) 2) Type of machine = ALMAC Vadodara India. Address = App. Mona tiles BE compound 78, Chennai road Vadodara 39002. 3) 4) Number of machines = Three machines. Number of workers on one machine = 3 workers Total = 12 workers 5) Ink used for writing sort on the fabric roll Ink = Centurys TM Tex marker. Colour available = Yellow. PROCEDURE OF GREY FABRIC INSPECTION : 1) The rolls from the weaving department are brought and on the cloth roller quality sort is written with pen and also loom number is mentioned. 2) The fabric rolls are then taken for mending according to requirement 3) The mending reports consist of a) b) c) d) e) f) g) Sr. No. Loom Number Beam number Doffer Date / shift Reed and pick Width Total meters.

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4) The sheet consists of 100 points and when the particular fault arises that point mark is written at that point. 5) Types of faults observed while mending :a) b) c) d) e) Starting marks Double picks Temple mark Lashing Warp breaks

a. Weavers Faults :f) g) h) i) j) k) l) Broken picks Missing pick Missing end Wrong denting in Wrong denting Double pick Double pick

b. Machine Faults :a) b) c) d) e) f) Snarl mark Single pick Lashing Crack Thick place Oil stain

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c. Sizing Faults :a) b) Size Patch Size stain

6) After mending process at the end of the fabric end again quality sort is written with help of the ink. 7) Then the gum tapes are putted on the roll and again in polythene bags and send for processing. FOUR POINT FABRIC INSPECTION SYSTEM POINT 1 2 3 4 SIZE OF DEFECT UP TO 3 Inch 3 6 Inch 6 9 Inch Over 9 Inch

Remarks : i. no more than four penalty points may be assigned for any single defect ii. no more than penalty point may be assigned to one linear mater regardless of the no. of defect within that one meter iii. A condition defect running or longer shall be assigned four point for each meter in which it occur iv. For continuous defect such as missing end or double end no penalty point will be given however the entire piece shall be rejected v. A hole will be assigned 4 penalty point irrespective size

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DRAWING IN
OBJECT : In drawing-in department the sized warp ends are drawn from heald wire & prepare to be placed on weaving machine.

Before drawing-in after sizing leasing is done for that purpose leasing Machine is used. The leasing m/c is separate the each end warp sheet alternately

Specification : Type : Todo TC 700 140, Japan. Speed : 0 100 rpm. Working speed : 80 rpm. Procedure of leasing : 1) First beam from sizing m/c are bring in drawing-in department & keep near to the leasing m/c.

2) After that some sheet of warp is unwound because of good result.

3) Warp sheet is hold between both clamps of machine at that time combing is done for straightening each warp end.

4)After combing the suitable tension is given between two clamps so that every warp become straight.

5) Then actual leasing is started, for leasing various no. of needles Are used, 47 | P a g e

 Higher number : For Course count Lower number : For Fine count 6) Leasing machine separate end by inserting Nylon wire between warp sheet by machine. After the leasing actual drawing-in is done leasing makes more easy and time saving so increase drawing-in efficiency. For drawing-in the drawing plan slip is given to the drawing-in department according to drawing-in order no. of heald wire per heald frame , drop pin , reed, No. of end per dent are decided, Selvedge end.

Total no. of ends No. of repeats in fabric = ---------------------------------End per repeat

Ends per heald frame = repeat frequency x No. of repeats in fabric

Repeat frequency = heald frame x frequency

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PROCESSING

PROCESS SEQUENCE

BATCHING

SINGIENG

DESIZING

BLEACHING

DYEING AND/OR PRINTING

FINISHING (CALENDERING & SANFORISING)

INSPECTION PACKING

FOLDING

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SINGEING CUM DESIZING

MACHINE MANUFACTURE :OSTHOFF SENGE(made in Germany).

BASIC OBJECTIVE; 1: Singeing is used to reduce the hairiness of yarn by burning out

protruding fibres from fabric surface.

2: Desizing process to remove the size content on the fabric.

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FABRIC FLOW IN SINGING CUM DESIZING M/C

Grey batch

J scary

Brushing

Singeing Cooling cylinder

Brushing

Desizing

Out Batch

RECIPE FOR SINGEING & DESIZING M/C

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CHEMICAL Emcozyme Instawet NA Sirrix 2 UDI Cellusoft CR Soda ash

OTHER 3 gpl 3 gpl 1 gpl -----

600TC 4 gpl 4 gpl 2 gpl -----

400TC 3 gpl 3 gpl 1 gpl 4.5 gpl 0.2 gpl

Passage flow of fabric through desizing chamber:-

M/C Process parameters Speed: 80 meters/min Flame position: 3 Flame intensity: 16 mbar Desizing bath temperature: 70 degree Squeezing nip pressure:1 Gap between fabric to flame: 1 to 1.5 inch 52 | P a g e

 LPG gas: Air ratio 1:4 M/c efficiency: 80% Chemical supply for m/c is auto Dosing system. Temperature control on the m/c is automatic. Desizing tank capacity 2000 lit

PREPRATION OF DESIZING TANK

Fill the tank with water to about 50% volume initially Dissolve the common salt & then add in the tank Dilute sirix 2UDI with water &then add in the tank Dilute Sandzon MRN with water & add in the tank Dilute Bactsol PHC with water & add in the tank Adjust the pH with acetic acid 5.5 Make the required volume & stirrer for 10 min Batch manufactured from desizing process is kept for rotation time period about 8-12 Hrs according to thread count.l

No of workers on m/c is : 5 Operator M/c front side1 M/c back side1 Workers for chemical preparatio

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Bleaching Process

Scray Extracta VDR Batching

Impacta

Reacta

Extracta

MACHINE MANUCTURE: PTR (PRETREATMENT RANGE), BENNINGER (GERMANY) BASIC OBJECTIVE: TO INCREASE WHITNESS OF THE DESIZED FABRIC. TO WASH OUT SIZE CONTENT PRESENT ON FABRIC SURFACE IN EXTRACTA.

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FABRIC FLOW THROUGH BLEACHING MACHINE Desized batch (after rotating station)

J scray

Injecta

(air & steam pressure to remove size)

Extracta (3)

Impecta

( bleaching chemical padding)

Steamer (dwell time and bleaching reaction)

Triflex

Extracta

(5 washer to washing the fabric)

VDR

(vertical drying range optional process)

Out batch (semi white or full white)

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RECIPE FOR BLEACHING:

CHEMICAL H2O2 CHELATING AGENT WETTING AGENT STABILIZER NaOH

WHITE GOOD 50 ml/kg 2 ml/kg 4 ml/kg 8 ml/kg 30 ml/kg

DYED GOOD 40 ml/kg 2 ml/kg 3 ml/kg 8 ml/kg 30 ml/kg

* Speed of the m/c is 80 m/min. * Holding time (i.e. contact time of fabric) 22 min * Temp = 98 C * Pressure = 0.9 bar

BLEACHING STEPS

1) 2) 3)

For Bleaching, the fabric is coming form desizing This desized fabric is taken from the Batch first Then it will fall down t-scray

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4)

Then washing of fabric is done at a temperature 98C with high pressure so that the

sized material comes out in the inject. 5) Now, in Extracta also washing is done at a temp of 90C which has capacity of 1300

lit of water. 6) Again the washing of the fabric is done in the extracta at 90C has a

7) Then the fabric is coming in BEN IMPACTA , BEN -IMPACTA capacity of 180 litre. BEN IMPACTA contains Bleaching chemicals. 8)

After chemical application the fabric is passing for steaming. Here the holding time is

22 min. 9) 10) 15) After steaming hot wash is carried out in Tricoplex here, temp is 90C Extracta :- Washing is done at 90C for white fabric . Squeezer:- After washing squeezing is done.

16) VDR :- Fabric is dry at a roller temp of 130 - 135C. & after that batching is done.

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MERCERIZATION

Scray VDR Extracta Impregnation zone wetting zone Feeding

Stablisation Zone

MACHINE manufacture: MERCERISING, BENNINGER GERMANY

BASIC OBJECTIVES: To improve the luster of fabric To remove crease mark & to improve dye ability property To improve absorbency of fabric. To give whitness & brightness to the fabric To do the width setting i.e. Dimension stability

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FABRIC FLOW IN MERCERISING MACHINE

J scray

Prewaiter batch

Squeezing mangle (squeezing pressure 600 N)

Impregnation tank

Dwelling timing

Stenter chain

Squeezing mangle (squeezing pressure 600 N)

Stabilizer

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Squeezing mangle (squeezing pressure 600 N)

Washer (5) in 5th washer half portion contain acetic Acid

Squeezing mangle (squeezing pressure 600 N)

VDR (vertical drying range)

J scray

M/C Process parameters Speed: 60 meters/min Impregnation temperature: 60 deg Steaming timing: 20min Washer temperature (1-4): 90deg Washer temperature (5-6): 60 deg Mangle pressure: 600N Water flow: 4lit/kg 60 | P a g e

 M/c efficiency: 70% Water flow: 1.5 lit/kg Chemical supply for m/c is automatic. Caustic conc.: 28 Be Stabilizing temperature (1-4): 90 deg Steam consumption: 0.4 bar Machine threading length: 350 meters Caustic used: 240 gm/kg of fabric Important zones: Expanding bar : To give the tension to the fabric To avoid the problem of crease mark Stenter unit : In these zone width setting of fabric is done In these zone fabric is clamped between the pin bars Caustic spray is done here. Dwelling zone: caustic is entering in the fabric because of mangle pressure Acetic acid is used in the half portion of 5 washer because of these remaining caustic in the fabric can be neturalized.

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CAUSTIC RECOVERY PLANT

Machine process sequence

2 tanks of caustic from mercerizing

Stirred by the help of stirrer

Heat exchanger (4 units)

Recover tank

M/C Process parameters: Water pressure: 3 bar Steam pressure: 4 bar Recovered caustic conc. : 38-40 Be H2O2 spray is used for removing the short fibre from fabric are come on the top Heat exchanger contain temp so that water quantity can be removed in this zone 1 operator for this plant. 62 | P a g e

DYEING
Objectives: Uniformity in dyeing High color fastness Short through time Cost efficient process Higher efficiency & higher production Crease free fabric run Flexible for many plant

In the Dyeing Department ,there are 2 type of dyeing processes which are as follows;

1) Cold Pad Batch System. 2) Pad Dry Cure System.

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1) Cold Pad Batch System(CPB):-

In the cold pad batch system fabric is padded with alkali as well as dye liquor at room temperature & form its batch, whichis kept for 12 16hrs hrs according to the quality & percentage shade at rotating station.

Batch Specifications:-

Maximum quantity of one batch Batching time

: - 5000 Mts. :- 12 18hrs. [According to the quality of the good]

Batch is covered with polythene sheet to avoid air oxidation as well as to avoid the localize drying.

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Recipe for the Cold Pad Batch System :-

A ) Silicate used as Alkali : Silicate Caustic Dye : 20 gpl : 4 gpl : X part.

pH Temperature

:-

: 11.5 12 : < 250c

B)

Soda Ash used as Alkali : Soda Ash : 20 gpl Caustic : 4 gpl

Dye : X part.

pH

: 11.5 12 : < 250

Temperature

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CONTINUOUS DYEING RANGE

MACHINE: BICO FLEX AU DLO 75-LG 2T, BENNINGER GERMANY

Feature: Scray on both the side. 10-100 meters/min machine speed. 60-70 metes/min production speed. 3650mtrs threading length. 3200mm working width. Batching speed 20-30% more than m/c speed. Input: batch from pad dry as well as mercerize CDR zones: cold pad batch for reactive dyeing & for vat development from pad steam Washer: washing is done for reactive dye & E- control process Reactive dyeing: CPB-rotation for 16 hrs-washer - finishing Vat dyeing: pad dry pad steam (solublise shade & washing) for development- finishing Reactive E- control: pad dry-washing & soaping - finishing Check points: steam line checking, water, steam, air, pressure checking. Various processes

Padding: padding is takes place caustic & hydrous which will make the vat dye water soluble so that dye get penetrated in fabric Steamer: fabric is passed in the steamer for 1 min. Peroxide treatment: it is given to fabric to make dyes insoluble in water during washing. Washing: it is carried out by soda soap & passed through acetic acid for neutralization Kusture mangle: in the kusture mangle have two immersion roll & two pad rolls for keeping the constant color level. Level sensor is available. in this mangle pressure is about 22.2 right & left .

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Machine process sequence CDR

J scray

Cooling rollers

Pad batch (mangle)

Boaster for stripping

Steamer (fixation of color at 100deg)

Washer (9 washer temperature 1: room temp 2,3(acetic acid 2ml/lit) & 8 have 80 deg. 4,5(soap 2 ml/lit), 6,7:95 deg, 9 ,60 deg acetic acid (2 ml/lit)

VDR UNIT

Cooling rollers

J - skray

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Dyed batch

MONFORTS PAD DRY PROCESS PARAMETERS

PARAMETER

E CONTROL

PAD DRY

1. IR TEMP 2. THERMAX TEMP CHAMBER 1 2 3 4

NOT REQUIRED

650

120 120 120 120 120

120 140 150 170 170

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BLOWER SPEED CHAMBER 1 2 3 4 5 HUMIDITY CHAMBER 1 2 TO 5 22 27% SHOULD NOT LESS THAN 25% 50 M/MIN ----70 70 70 70 70 -----------

M/C SPEED

60 M/MIN

M/C process sequence MONFORT PAD-DRY

J scray

Cooling rollers

Pad batch (mangle)

Skayer

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IR DRYER (2)

Hot flue chamber (5)

Cooling rollers

Preparation of reactive colour in dye tank

Fill the tank with water to about 50% volume to be prepared start Dissolve the resist salt &then add in the tank (5 gpl) Make color paste with water (x gpl) Dilute anti migrating agent with water &then add in the tank (10 gpl) Dilute wetting agent with water &then add in the tank (1 gpl) Dilute defoamer with water & add in the tank (0.05 gpl) Citric acid after dissolve the water (0.1 gpl) Make the required volume & stirrer for 10 min

Preparation of vat color in dye tank

Fill the tank with water to about 50% volume to be prepared start Make paste with water (x gpl) Dilute anti migrating agent with water &then add in the tank (10 gpl) Dilute wetting agent with water &then add in the tank (1 gpl) Dilute defoamer with water & add in the tank (0.05 gpl)

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 Make the required volume & stirrer for 10 min

Chemical padder Dilute soda lye with water Dilute hydrose with water Dissolve the Glauber salt

LIGHT (10 MERDIUM DARK (40 gpl) (10-40 gpl) gpl) 30 30 15 50 50 25 70 70 35

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PRINTING

OBJECTIVE: Production of attractive design with well defined boundaries made by artistic design & color arrangement of one or more color oF various motifs.

DESIGN STUDIO: In design studio different printing design is developed with the help of Design development software after developing the design mini screen prepared in engraving section. After that the design is developed in fabric & sent to customer for approving and correction in design after approval of customer whether the correction done if not the printing is started in roller printing m/c.

Procedures Flow chart for Screen Explosion :

Send no. of colour with motif to inkjet printing through network.

Selection of screen widthwise as well as mesh size.

Application of photochemical

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Drying of photochemical below 300c.for 15 to 20 Min.

Engrave the design on screen

Dry it with the help of U.V. light.( Pre-hardening of the screen.)

Water development ( water is sprayed under pressure over the screen.)

Curing at 1800c for two hours. (Post hardening)

final fitting of end ring at both side

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Parameters of CST Engrave :-

Engraving width Explosure length Screen length

2000 mm 3050 mm 3450 mm

1800 mm 2850 mm 3200 mm

1960 mm 3020 mm 3470 mm

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M/C process sequence ZIMMER, AUSTRIA

Batch from dyeing or mercerizing

Cleaning of fabric (vacuum air)

Threading

Gum unit (to stick the fabric to blanket)

Screen head (16 head are present)

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Dryer (oil dryer)

Washer temp (reactive: 130 & for pigment: 150deg)

M/C Process parameters

Speed: 40 meters/min Gum is used to stick the fabric to rubber blanket to avoid the problem of printing defect Magnet is used to avoid the problem of design so paste supply is equal Steam pressure 3-5 bar Colour is prepared on the basis of area utilize by these design

Preparation of printing paste Reactive printing paste: Alginate (thickening agent)= 4% Sodium hexameta phosphate (to maintain pH of water)=0.5% Urea (hydroscopic agent) = 8% Sodium bicarbonate (to maintain boundaries= 3-3.5% Resist salt (color fixation) = 1.5-1.8%

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Recipe for pigment printing Pigment Binder Fixer Urea ATP AP Ammonia PTRV Water 8% 1 4 1 0.5 1 3 Remaining Binding agent Fixing agent Hydroscopic agent Emulsifier Defoamer PH maintain Synthetic thickner

Print - dry - cure

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AGEING, ARIOLI, ITALY.

OBJECTIVES: after printing process fixation of colors is done by ageing process

For reactive color printing (oil & steam is used) Temperature: 102 104 deg

For pigment colour-printing- oil is used Temperature: 150 deg

Steam pressure: 6 bar

For reactive color printing timing in chamber = 8 min

For pigment color printing timing in chamber = 5 min Printing defect: Gum defect Pin hole Setting defect Dirt & dust Stoppage mark

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FINISHING

Monforts montex & Harish DLXI

Object: To improve the appearance of fabric, luster, whiteness To improve the feel of fabric which depend upon fabric softness & handle To increase the wt of fabric. To improve the serviceability of fabric to cover up fabric fault.

Name of m/c - MONTEX Temp = 90 - 180 No. of chamber = 10 Speed : 60-120 mts/min

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FABRIC FLOW IN STENTER MACHINE

Batch from dyeing or mercerizing or printing

Padding mangle (mangle pressure 19 N/mm)

Under feed mechanism

Overfeed mechanism

Hot flue chamber (10 chamber to dry the fabric)

Cooling rollers

Out let batch for next process

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Process Parameters

Normal finish

Resin finish 1 9 2

Heat setting 192

Top finish 19 + 2

Mangle Pressure (Nimm) Speed (m +/min) Temp 1 ,2 & 3 Chamber

19 2

100 5 145 5

22 1 100, 110 &1105

30 2 200 5

50 + 5 145 5

Temp 4 to 10 chamber

145 5

135 + 5

210 + 5

145 5

1)

Resin Finish

Arko fix NEC Pus = 210 gpl Catalyst LTI = 32 gpl Sandolupe HD = 30 gpl Speed = 22m/min for 110 to 140C Pad - shock cure at 180 to 190 C for 45 sec for white goods.

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2)

Top finish

Solusoft up lug = 10 gpl Solusoft mw = 20 gpl Sudolupe HP = 20 gpl Hostapol MRN = 0.2 gpl Temp=140C Speed = 80 m/min

3)

Normal finish

Mw= 10 gpl HD = 10gpl CP = 0.1 gpl Recipe-1000 lit.

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CALENDERING

MACHINE MANUFACTURE:

Ramesch Guranaric calendaring

OBJECTIVES: TO INCREASE LUSTURE OF FABRIC. TO IMPROVE HANDLE OF THE FABRIC. To MAKE THE FABRIC CREASE FREE.

FABRIC FLOW THROUGH CALENDERING MACHINE

Batch from Finishing

Tension roll (2)

Seam detector (iron detector)

Seam detector ( STITCHING SEAM)

Guider

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Tension roller (1= Cotton roller)(nipco roller= Bottom, steel= top (ironing takes place here)

Cotton roller (it will give shine to fabric)

Out Batch.

M/C Process parameters Machine speed: 70 meters/min Pressure: 16 bar Nipco coil temperature: 33deg Stainless steel roll temperature: room temp Cotton roll is used to avoid the problem of crease mark Cooling roll contain water so cooling of fabric takes place. Seam detector: when any stitch position is coming then m/c temp is automatically reduced Two types of calendaring is done: normal calendaring & hot calendaring

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Problems in the calendaring process: Crease mark

SANFORISING, MONFORTS SANFORISER.

Objective: warp yarn are under much strain due to interlacement than the weft yarn ,so fabric is allowed to shrink. Warp yarn shrinkage is more than weft yarn.

Mechanism: fabric is placed on the external surface of rubber blanket represented by the concave surface. When the tension is released on the blanket, it shrinks. The fabric which is in close contact with the rubber blanket of the concave surface has no way other than shrinkage along with the blanket. It is a mechanical finish process

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FABRIC FLOW IN SANFORISING

Batch from Finishing

Damping unit

Perforator (moister. water is sprayed here)

Rubber Belt (shrinkage setting)

Felt Belt

Cooling rolls

Out let material for finish inspection

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M/C Process parameters Machine speed: 60 meters/min Rubber blanket cylinder temp: 90 deg Felt blanket cylinder temp: 120 deg Shrinkage: 4% Felt blanket unit final setting of shrinkage & ironing is done In these process temp control & water flow is done automatically

R & D / Q. A MACHINERY LIST AND PURPOSE OF THE MACHINERY PHYSICAL TESTING LAB: M/c Name Tensile Strength Brand name Titan 2 Purpose To check the tensile of fabric, yarn, seam slippage Tear strength Random Tumble pilling Rubbing fastness Abrasion & pilling crockmaster - martindale To check rubbing fastness of fabric To check the formation of pills by scrubbing between to fabric by cycling method Crease recovery To check the crease recovery angle Elmater ---Tear strength of fabric is check To check the pilling in fabric

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Shrinkage template

---

To check the shrinkage of fabric

Also in physical testing after finishing fabric is check for EPI, PPT, TC, Warp& Weft Count, GSM, Widths, potential shrinkage, screw& bow %, Seam slippage, Tensile strength, Tear Strength, PH, Whiteness index, pilling, colour fastness.

CHEMICALS

TESTING LAB:

In chemicals testing lab all the chemicals, dyes, starches etc were checked. Dye samples check, size contents check in fabric, core PH of fabric checked, After bleaching fabric is check for PH, absorbency, tagwa, whiteness index etc also diff chemicals checks for their strength.

WET LAB: (MACHINERY IN WET LAB) 1, 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. Wascator(washing m/c) Gyrowash (colour fastness) Mathis Universal Steamer Mathis (padding mangles) Mathis (pad dry range) Mathis (CDR range) Data colour Autolab CCM m/c

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WASHING FASTNESS TESTING 1] 2] 3] Take the dyed or finished sample Now take the multifibre and is sand witched between the dyed samples. Now fill the pot of the Gyrowash with 150 ml. Water and add Ball Bearing (10) into that. 4] Add 0.22 gm ECE powder and add sample raise the temp upto 45C and put it for 22 min.

PH of the fabric :It is tested by universal PH indicator.

Absorbency Test :1] The fabric keep into the embroidery ring 2] Put the drop of

water from Burette 3] Using the stop watch take the reading to absorb the water into fabric.

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CONCLUSION:The internship in Indo count Industries helped us in order to increase our awareness toward the various manufacturing processes involved indo bed sheet manufacturing processes. The 95% of total manufacturing of Indo Count industries is for export purpose which also increase our awareness toward the various quality aspect for export oriented goods. Also because of internship there is bridge relationship in between NIFT orgnaisation and Indo Count industries which is really a quality oriented organization.

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