Malaysias culinary legends have been well-recognised around the world. But beyond the our, meat and spices, what really goes into a dish? We turn the spotlight on undiscovered gems rich with stories and taste.
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Hpaper is a quarterly publication by HPL Hotels & Resorts. We cover broad topics like travel, fashion, retail, gastronomy and design with a focused regionalist perspective. A concise companion if you like to be out and about, soaking in the local landscape. In each issue, the Hpaper team visits one of the 11 destinations where our hotels are located. We aim to provide you with helpful tips and tricks from our repository of local know-how. Publisher HPL Hotels and Resorts Editor-in-chief Angeline Loh Online editor Cynthia Tan Contributing writer Jean Qingwen Loo Contributing photographer Alvin Toh Design and art direction Bureau Pte Ltd
Twists and turns on a weeklong road trip from Penang to Pontian put in focus some of Malaysias best-kept family recipes and inspire new ways of taking in the peninsulas old world charm.
P.04 ~ P.06
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A stall outside the food centre behind old Cheng Siu Primary School (along Jalan Abu Bakar), near Swee Kee herbal soup restaurant. 12.30pm until sold out (usually at 4.30pm)
BUTTERWORTH
Butterworth is a major transportation hub for bus routes and railway lines that do not serve Penang Island. It is linked to the island via the Penang Bridge, the second longest bridge in Malaysia.
BUKIT MERTAJAM
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Often known as B.M, this fast-growing town is named after a hill and located in Central Seberang Perai.
A traditional staple at weddings since 1923, the amount of work spanning a seven-day method of preparation is a real eye-opener. Proprietor Leonard Oh, whose grandfather first started making the candy, has plans to build on his familys legacy. It is very important that we do not lose traditional skills like this. Automating can help us, but you still need to feel with your hands to maintain a connection.
PERAI
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A major industrial area located in Penang, the town was developed from a mangrove swamp and slowly grew to accommodate residential neighbourhoods that house employees in nearby factories.
ountless accolades have been showered on Malaysia for its culinary legends. Our week-long sedup (delicious in Malay language) food trail takes us on a road trip from Butterworth to Ipoh and down south into Johor state where we navigate Muar, Batu Pahat and Pontian. We aim not to repeat names familiar with foodies, but to shine the spotlight on the underrated and undiscovered gems of small towns along the route. Our research involved lengthy phone conversations with foodie friends, filtering the onslaught of food blogs online and narrowing our list to the more credible ones. We contacted relatives in Malaysia and friends who could take us to their secret gems. In the process we were treated to the best of Malaysian kampong hospitality, where conversations with children of pioneering hawkers who shared their joys and burdens helped us re-discover the joys of eating. It was food for thought, definitely. The chosen mode of transport was a breath of fresh air too. Mapping our trail and observing the landscape change from skyscrapers to low-rise homes and a seemingly endless horizon of crop plantations, we were forced to slow down, to observe and appreciate. Understanding the motivations behind a culinary skill often inspires us to look at it from a new perspective. This guide can be used as a loose reference point for readers to plan their own adventures and learn about Malaysia while enjoying some of the best offerings it has. We hope these stories also remind you of the beauty of serendipity. Venture off the road with an open mind and appetite, you never know what surprise awaits you.
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SEREMBAN
The capital of Negeri Sembilan, Seremban is the business and commercial centre for most towns and villages in the state. It is also famous for its delicacies comprising Malay, Chinese and Indian cuisine.
MELAKA
Bordering Negeri Sembilan to the north and Johor to the south, Melaka boasts a rich cultural history involving Portuguese influence and a precious Peranakan heritage. Its historical city centre was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2008.
MUAR
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A nameless pushcart responsible for churning out plates (about 100 a day) of min jiang kueh, it was a theatrical treat watching Mr Chua Eng Chun manage the long queues, hot iron plates filled with a bubbly peanut-flour mix and tending to his phone. The pancakes come in thin and thick versions and are nothing short of heavenly.
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Muar is the second largest city in the state of Johor and has built up a reputation as the hub of Malaysias furniture industry. Much of its town centre still features rows of pre-war commercial buildings and beautiful Chineseinfluenced architecture.
Yam RicePerai
45 Lebuh Kurau Satu, Taman Chai Leng, Perai, 3700 Seberang Perai Tengah, Pulau Pinang 9.30am to 3.30pm, daily. Closed on Thurs.
IPOH
Wanton MeeIpoh
542 Jalan Sekolah, Buntong 30100 Ipoh, Perak Tel +6019 516 6781 6.30pm to 11pm, daily. Closed Sun and Public Holidays.
Malaysias third largest city on the peninsulas west coast was a town built on the vast fortunes during the booming tin-mining industry in the 19th century. Its city centre is characterised by eclectic shop houses reminiscent of yesteryear.
GUA TEMPURUNG
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A 20-minute drive from Ipoh, Gua Tempurung is the largest limestone cave on the peninsula, bringing Geography lessons to life, with mesmerising formations of stalagmites and stalactites.
BATU PAHAT
A district southeast of Muar, Batu Pahat, which means chiseled stone, is home to about 470,000 locals. It is growing rapidly and is also famous for its hawker-style food courts and distinct street food.
Breakfast at Sin Yoon Loong Original White Coffee is the best way to start any given day in Ipoh. It has been a favourite with locals for its array of local eats since opening in 1937.
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A massive industrial artifact from the era of tin mining industry in Malaysia, the floating factory is a reminder of Peraks past and its forefathers labour.
KLUANG
A well-loved local classic, yam rice accompanied by pork innards and preserved vegetable (kiam chye) soup might sound like a odd play of ingredients. But the scene of hungry diners at Kedai Kopi Chip Heng Yam Rice shows otherwise. The aroma is promising. The unassuming Mr Png Lai Heng, 48, who has been running the business with the help of his family members for the last 21 years, says: The ingredients have to be fresh, its that simple.
Away from tourist traps in the community of Buntong, locals swear by Cheong Kee Wanton Noodle as top of their leagues for staple of wanton noodles. Mrs Chen Lai Kuen, 46, whose father started the business from a rickshaw in 1969, still eats a bowl every night after the stall closes. From pork to dumpling and flour to noodle, every aspect of the process is kept within the family.
P.12 ~ P.13
Located in the middle of Johor state, Kluang lies in an area of rolling hills and has been developed as a district for oil palm, pineapple, cocoa and tea plantations.
BATANG KALI
PONTIAN
A town in the Hulu Selangor district, Batang Kali is often used as a transit point to Genting Highlands, a hill resort in Malaysia famous for its casino and theme parks.
A former fishing village, Pontian is noted today for its variety of seafood sold at reasonable prices and hundreds of acres of pineapple plantations. It was also once the largest exporter of pineapples in the world.
BUTTERWORTH
30 minutes / 22km from Georgetown Latitude: 525N Longitude: 10024E
Often looked over by tourists who favour Georgetowns colonial atmosphere, Butterworth is an industrial town located across the channel earmarked as an important transportation hub. Serving some of the freshest and cheapest seafood in Penang, Ong Cheng Huat Seafood is an underrated gem for families and big groups. There are only seven items on its menu, which translates to a focused, speedy kitchen team, consistent standard and affordable prices. We arrive for an early lunch to crowds of diners under a metal shack. Within 10 minutes of placing our orders, a plate of blanched octopus (RM13), drizzled with deep fried garlic along with a peanut-chilli sauce, is served. The generous portion of fried bee hoon (RM5, serves 23 persons), not too oily with an aromatic wok hei is the staple as the restaurant doesnt serve white rice, though diners are allowed to bring their own. Be sure to order the signature crispy prawn fritters wrapped with popiah skin (RM6), crispy spring chicken (RM6 for half) and sambal
belacan (fresh chilli with toasted shrimp paste) for a pleasant spread. The star though, was the steamed fresh red snapper (RM32, serves 34 people), delivered fresh from Phuket daily. Steamed in a teochew style for some 10 minutes with freshly chopped garlic, ginger, pickled vegetables and chili, the taste of chunks of fish which fell off the bone, doused in tangy soup with a hint of spiciness was unbeatable.
brown siew bak (roast pork), char siew (bbq pork), roast chicken and plain rice, which was steamed in a small aluminium bowl. It is crunchy to the right degree with a kick from a potent green chili and garlic oil concoction, washed down perfectly with a bowl of preserved vegetable soup.
PERAI
20 minutes / 17 km from Georgetown Latitude: 523N Longitude: 10023E
BUKIT MERTAJAM
30 minutes / 27 km from Georgetown Latitude: 522N Longitude: 10028E
Excited by the prospects of journeying for untainted, heartland food, we move on to BM Cup Rice, a humble roadside stall with all of four tables helmed by Mdm Chow Yuen Chew, in her 40s. A family business born in 1978, the stall has weathered the years with its traditional recipe of roasted chicken and pork rice (RM4 for a small bowl, RM6.50 for a big bowl). The sound of a heavy cleaver on the chopping board entices, as engines flare from motorists eagerly awaiting their takeaways. One bite and I didnt have to wonder why. Mdm Chow drizzles two servings of thick gravy on a generous serving of golden
For locals who drive the distance from Penangs mainland in search of food, a well-loved classic is yam rice accompanied by pork innards and preserved vegetable (kiam chye) soup. We try out Kedai Kopi Chip Heng Yam Rice, an airy and breezy kopitiam decked with lilac pastel walls and packed with tables of hungry office workers at noon. The aroma is promising. The unassuming Mr Png Lai Heng, 48, who has been running the business with the help of his family members for the last 21 years, says: The ingredients have to be fresh, its that simple. My mouth waters as I tuck into the bowl of yam rice (RM5.50) in front of me. Yam rice relies heavily on the quality of yam and is cooked with rice, dried shrimps and dark sauce. The
texture was comfortingsoft yet powdery with cubes of yam and tasted of home. It is served with a variety of soups from bittergourd to yong tau foo (stuffed bean curd with fish paste), but it is the kiam chye soup with pork meatballs and innards which takes the cake. Mrs Png mans the soup with much precision as the fresh scent of parsley leaves and mild sour taste kept me going back for more. A highlight was the chilli padi and dark sauce that gave the dish an extra kick. The braised pork (tau you bak) (RM5.50) with pieces of soft tau kwa (bean curd), was a surprise and added another dimension to the experience. Order a set of yam rice, kiam chye pig innards soup and tau you bak, which at RM11 is quite a steal. Tastebuds now awoken, we take a short drive towards Beng Huat Asam Fish Chicken Rice, another eatery adored by the community for its chicken rice (RM0.70) with assam fish soup. As a slight drizzle turns into heavy rain, we arrive to the hustle bustle of owner Li Beng Huat, 40 and his crew of five busy chopping and frying away. With his white beard, Mr Li cuts quite a character (his face is used as the shops logo). The kitchen is stationed at the shopfront and one cannot help but get sucked into the
scene of fried chicken (RM2.70) drizzled with soya sauce, dark sauce and sesame oil, bean sprouts dished by the heap and a bubbling pot of dark orange assam gravy simmering in the corner. We share a portion of mackerel fish (RM4.70) swimming in assam gravy rich and savory. Around us, empty bowls and plates are a sign of appreciation.
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Ong Cheng Huat Seafood serves some of the freshest and cheapest seafood in Penang. An open kitchen focused only seven items on its menu translates to a consistent standard and affordable prices. A plate of blanched octopus is drizzled with deep fried garlic and served with a peanut-chilli sauce. A family business born in 1978, BM Cup Rice is a humble roadside stall with all of four tables selling roasted chicken and pork rice. Takeaways are a popular option with neatly packed portions of thick gravy, roasted pork, chicken and plain rice.
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Yam rice is cooked with yam, rice, dried shrimps and dark sauce. It is served with kiam chye soup with pork meatballs and innards. The ingredients have to be fresh, its that simple, says Mr Png Lai Heng, 48, who has been running the business with his family for the last 21 years. Kedai Kopi Chip Heng Yam Rice is an airy and breezy kopitiam packed with tables of hungry office workers at noon. Beng Huat Asam Fish Chicken Rice is popular for its chicken rice with assam fish soup.
Jewel of PeraK
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IPOH
2 hours / 160km from Kuala Lumpur Latitude: 43600N Longitude: 101400E
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I sigh in content as I take a sip from the porcelain mug dotted with flower motifs. Rich, sweet with a hint of bitter and absolutely aromatic, there was no other way to start our hunt for Ipohs best cuisine than at Sin Yoon Loong Original White Coffee. A preferred place for breakfast by locals since it opened in 1937, the coffee shop looked like a scene straight out of a Wong Kar Wai movie with its gentle light, tables of chatty elderly bantering in Cantonese and busy servers whisking cups of coffee, toasts with kaya (coconut jam) and curry chee cheong fun (rice rolls). We move on eagerly to Ipohs famous Dim Sum street, helmed by big guns such as Ming Court Hong Kong Dim Sum and Foh San Dim Sum. Staying away from the throngs of people, we decide on the smaller Chang Keong Dim Sum restaurant, lured partially by its display of steaming baskets. Cheery duo chef Chang Keong, who has had more than 30 years of experience across various Chinese restaurants in Malaysia and Singapore, has been running the stall with his wife Sakura since 2002. He said: Dim Sum is a way of living for the locals. We keep our food simple and close to their hearts. A stream of people line up for their takeaways as we wolf down our hot big buns, har kow (prawn
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dumplings), fish skin dumplings, glutinous rice, bean curd skin rolls and carrot cake, which was stir fried with generous helpings of chives, eggs and bean sprouts. Of course, there is always room for dessert. We make a quick dash for a bowl of soybean curd (RM0.90) at Funny Mountain Soya Bean. Established in 1952, Brothers Ben and Cliff Tan, who took over the stall from their father, dish out bowl after bowl to customers sitting in their cars under the blazing heat. What a drive-through experience! The tau fu fah, as locals call it, is smooth and served steaming hot with pandan syrup. Spoonfuls of bean curd slide down my throat. The desert is also served mixed with cincau (herbal jelly) or soymilk. A stones throw away along the famous tourist street Jalan Yau Tet Shin is the Wan Li Xiang Salt Baked Chicken and Duck. Having been on the market for over 30 years, boss Cheng Koi Sow, 46, runs a family business of chicken and duck farming. His signature salt baked chicken is flavorful with the aroma and taste of medicinal herbs bursting with each bite. It comes in eight treasures (RM18), ginseng (RM18), black pepper (RM17) and dang gui (angelica) (RM17) flavours.
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Stomachs satisfied and ready to do some shopping, we take a drive out of Ipoh town to Tambun, a small town in the Perak state. On the way, we stop by Ching Han Guan Biscuit Manufacturer to pick up a box of freshly made meat floss lotus paste biscuits. Mr Edison Cheng, 32, whose grandfather started the business in 1949, shares that everything is still made from scratch within the shops premises. Its very meaningful to continue a traditional craft left by my grandfather, he says. Tambun is well known for its majestic limestone cliffs, but more so for its pomelos (RM15 onwards) at Kebun Limau Bali (Tambun) Chin. Limau Tambun (Citrus of Tambun as the locals call it, are juicy, fragrant and thrive in an area of calcium-rich natural fertilizer throughout the year. Sweet pomelos are pale or cream in color, while the sour ones have a bright pink flesh. Other tropical delights like star fruits (RM5 for 1kg) and guava (RM4 for 1kg) are also available. We drive across Ipoh to Buntong, a cosy Indian and Chinese residential community. Away from tourist traps in the new town, locals swear by Cheong Kee Wanton Noodles and Restoran Ayam Tauke as top of their leagues for staples of noodles and bean sprout chicken. Over a boiling pot of soup, it is poetry in motion watching Mrs Chen Lai Kuen, 46, whose father started the business from a rickshaw in 1969, repeat actions of tossing and flipping
noodles (RM3.20) between pots of hot soup and cold water. The actions are deliberate and intuitive; the process quiet and neat. Since the age of 11 years old, she has spent most of her free time wrapping dumplings. A white-haired couple at the next table, whose weekly routine include driving here for a bowl of wanton noodles, is full of praise for the familys business. What we do with our hands is precious, she shares. From pork to dumpling and flour to noodle, every aspect of the process is kept within the family, within home. I eat a bowl every night after we close, she adds. People are sentimental and have feelings for food they love so we need to put our hearts into whatever we do. Over at Restoran Ayam Tauke on Jalan Guntong, tables of hungry families slurp up plates of poached chicken, hor fun (f lat rice noodles) and bean sprouts, often touted as the holy trinity of a decent bean sprout chicken (nga choy kai) meal in Ipoh. Unlike anywhere else, Ipohs bean sprouts are short and fat. Locals believe that mineral-rich water from the surrounding limestone hills have resulted in extra delicious and crunchy bean sprouts, seasoned with pepper, light soya sauce and oil. The eatery is a hidden gem and popular among the Buntong community. In fact, the entire set up is located in the front porch of someones house. A sure way of discovering Ipohs hospitality at its finest.
The LaKehouse
The Lakehouse is an idyllic country house in Cameron Highlands that overlooks rolling hills and verdant woodlands. Located around 1.5 hours from Ipoh, this Tudor-style 19-room property features a stonewall fireplace and well-preserved English artifacts. It provides a cool respite from Malaysias tropical heat and boats of amazing views of tea plantations and the great outdoors.
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Chang Keong Dim Sum restaurant is one of the many eateries serving Dim Sum, a style of Chinese food where small bite-sized portions are served in small steamer baskets. Sin Yoon Loong Original White Coffee is a well-loved place by locals for breakfast since it opened in 1937.
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A steady stream of locals come by for their breakfast takeaways including fish skin dumplings, glutinous rice and bean curd skin rolls. Funny Mountain Soya Bean was established in 1952 and serves one of Ipohs best Tau Fu Fah, a smooth sweet desert served steaming hot with pandan syrup. A stones throw away along the famous tourist street Jalan Yau Tet Shin is the Wan Li Xiang Salt Baked Chicken and Duck, popular with tourists for its signature salt baked chicken. Tambun is well known for its majestic limestone cliffs, but more so for its pomelos at Kebun Limau Bali (Tambun) Chin. Ching Han Guan Biscuit Manufacturer is a household name for its freshly made meat floss lotus paste biscuits. Mr Edison Cheng, 32, whose grandfather started the business in 1949, shares that everything is still made from scratch within the shops premises. Locals swear by Cheong Kee Wanton Noodles as one of the best choices for homemade noodles and dumplings. At Restoran Ayam Tauke on Jalan Guntong, it is common to see tables of hungry families slurping up plates of poached chicken, hor fun and bean sprouts, the holy trinity of a decent bean sprout chicken meal in Ipoh.
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FAST FORWARD
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Staying Rooted
What is the secret to the fame of Ipohs iconic fat and short bean sprouts? According to Mr Toon Yew Pooi, 85, who has been growing them for the last 70 years, the answer is water. Water is the most important, if water is not good, we cant produce anything good. Rain or shine, the ex village chief of Buntong village, who runs a bean sprout farm near his home, adheres to a strict schedule of watering up to 50 barrels of bean sprouts five times a day with ground water. Each time, he walks gingerly with a large hose on his shoulders, tenderly showering the sprouts in various stages of growth, repeating the same routine six times to bring down the temperature of the sprouts. The resulting bean sprouts are crunchy and sweet.
pitstop
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GUA TEMPURUNG
30 minutes / 33 km from Ipoh Latitude: 425N Longitude: 10111E
2. Prepare and clean a container. Depending on the amount of beans, anything from a glass jar to a barrel will work.
Located in Gopeng, about a 30-minute drive from Ipoh, Gua Tempurung is the largest limestone cave on the peninsula. Geography lessons come alive as our guide points out the different formations of stalagmites and stalactites. Trotting gingerly across walkways built for visitors, we gape at the majestic formations of marble, which play tricks on the eye. The cave is believed to have existed for more than 10,000 years. It stretches for more than 3km and is made of five huge domes,
Gua Tempurung
all of which have differing temperatures, water levels and limestone content. Easy to explore and popular among caving enthusiasts, there are various tour options ranging from 40 minutes (RM6 for adults, RM2.50 for children) to a thrilling four-hour grand tour (RM22 for adults, RM11 for children) involving wading through underground rivers, crawling through holes and climbing vertical walls.
APT Consortium Sdn. Bhd., 9A Medan Gopeng 4 Jalan Raja Dr. Nazrin Shah 31350 Ipoh, Perak
Tel +605 318 8555 Opening hours: 9am to 4pm, daily. Entrance Fee: RM6 onwards
4. Fill one-fifth of the container with beans, as it might be difficult to monitor the growth of too many beans.
5. Pour water (room temperature) over the beans. Fill the container to the brim and cover it with a mesh lid or cotton cloth, secured with a rubber band. This allows just enough air to prevent mould from destroying the beans. Soak the beans for 8 to 10 hours in a shaded environment.
6. Drain off the water through the cloth. Open the container and pour cold water over the beans. Shake the container. Reseal the container and drain the water again. Repeat this step 2 to 3 times a day to keep the beans clean and moist.
7. Note the date and observe the sprouts grow. Beans take around five days to sprout.
8. Harvest beans when they reach between one to three inches in length. Rinse, drain and allow the sprouts to dry on a clean paper towel for eight hours, till excess water evaporates.
The Tanjung Tualang Tin Dredge is a massive industrial artifact from the era of tin mining industry in Malaysia, which boomed in the early 1900s. Somewhat like a floating factory, tin-bearing soil was passed through a series of mechanisms to extract tin from other waste materials. In its heyday there were close to 40 dredges operated in Perak, with up to 105 across
Tanjung Tualang Tin Dredge Ship
Warisan Kapal Korek (Tin Dredge Heritage), 9th Km, Jalan Tanjung Tualang, 31000, Batu Gajah, Perak Tel +605 370 2253
the whole peninsula. This particular dredge, retired in 1983 after more than 40 years of service, is open to the public. Mr Steven Ng, its manager, said: Without tin ore our country would not progress so successfully, such that citizens of this generation are enjoying the fruits of our forefathers labour. It is very important for us to understand how our ancestors toiled.
Opening hours: 8am to 6pm, daily. Entrance Fee: RM6 for adults, RM3 for kids
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Oh Swee Lens famed sesame candy is a traditional staple at weddings since 1923. For almost a century, the familys kitchen has churned out batches and batches of celebratory candy. The seven-day method of preparation transforms large sheets of glutinous flour mixture into bite-sized rectangles, which are then fried in low heat. The finishing touches include soaking them in maltose sugar and rolling the candy with sesame or rice puffs.
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Generous chunks of soft yam are simmered in a broth of pork ribs and dark sauce together with homemade noodles for 20 minutes before served in a steaming hot inviting mess.
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BATANG KALI
50 minutes / 45 km from Kuala Lumpur Latitude: 328N Longitude: 10138E
Years of tradition present more to this transit town than gas stations
We wander into a sleepy village in Batang Kali, a town in Selangor often used as a transit point to Genting Highlands. It is quiet, to say the least. Driving by uninterested dogs basking in the sun, half-naked men napping in the yard and a table of seniors engrossed in a game of mahjong, we were eager to pick up packets of Oh Swee Lens famed sesame candy (RM5.40 for a packet of six), a traditional staple at weddings that have been in business since 1923. After directions from kind neighbours, we finally end up in the kitchen of Leonard Ohs home. To say that the candy is a labour of love is an understatement. The kitchen is no ordinary kitchen, having been where Ohs grandfather first started making the candy. The seven-day method of preparation, which produces around 100 kg of sweets, hasnt changed too. After soaking, pressing, steaming and drying, large sheets of glutinous flour mixture are transformed magically into bitesized rectangles, which are then fried in low heat. The finishing touches include soaking them in maltose sugar and rolling the candy with sesame or rice puffs. Delicious, delicious, delicious. My travel partners and I exchange glances of approval. Orders fly across the room for cartons of candy. Oh, who took over the family business after a career in financial consulting, says it is the nostalgic memory of his grandfather that inspired him to trade his fancy suits for sweaty t-shirts. It is very important that we do not lose traditional skills like this. Automating can help us with things like cutting, but you still need to feel, to actually cook, to maintain a certain standard and connection. Sentiments like these are what keep eateries like Restaurant Ken Kee alive. I starred intently at the claypot of yam and ribs noodles with dark sauce (RM9) as lady boss Avelyn Fong, 40, explained how her parents would cook this dish for her when she was a studying for her exams. It tastes of home, she says. Indeed. Generous chunks of soft yam are simmered in a broth of pork ribs and dark sauce together with homemade noodles for 20 minutes before served in a steaming hot inviting mess. We cook it portion by portion, she adds with pride. Other dishes worth tasting are the vegetable broth noodles (RM6), salted egg fried chicken (RM18), butter egg tofu (RM8) and Nyonya hotplate fish (RM30), which features a mess of assam sambal vegetables (13 ingredients, according to Fong) on top of a deep fried Tilapia fish.
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Goodness of Home
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Seremban Kee Mei Siew Pau has more than 60 outlets across Malaysia, serving the signature handmade siew paus and Chinese pastries.
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Baba Charlie Nyonya Cakes is a door-todoor business established in 1988, which has since become one of Melakas leading traditional Nyonya cake shop. At Kedai Kopi Lu San in Muar, famed for its authentic Hainanese curry rice, third generation owner Wee Meng Cheng, 42, whips together a variety of dishes for us to taste.
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At Malim Jaya Curry Rice in Melaka, locals delight in white rice topped with savory brised pork, aromatic curry chicken and a side of stewed bean curd and eggs. Otak-Otak Hang Kee, run from the back of a silver pickup truck along Muars Glutton Street, sells delicious otak-otak, attap leaves filled with tender juicy fresh minced fish and power-packed curry spices. Frozen packets are also available.
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SEREMBAN
1 hour, 70km from Kuala Lumpur Latitude: 243N Longitude: 10157E
One bite and I am hooked. It is tempting watching trays of golden brown buns emerge from a humble oven in a roadside coffee shop, but the burst of flavour in my mouth is another thing altogether. Our itinerary for the day was to skim the edge of Melaka for the famous Seremban Kee Mei Siew Pau (RM1.40 per pau). Based in Seremban, the Chinese bakery has more than 60 outlets across Malaysia, serving the signature handmade siew paus and Chinese pastries. True to its name, the pau did not disappoint. The baked crispy buns with barbequed pork or chicken fillings had a flakey and crunchy crust that wasnt too thick, reminding me of some of the best char siew sohs (baked buns with bbq pork) Ive ever eaten at overpriced Cantonese restaurants. The juicy fillings, with bits of onion, were lean, generous yet not too overwhelming.
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MELAKA
1.5 hours, 142 km from Kuala Lumpur Latitude: 212N Longitude: 10215E
My greedy companions and I hop back on the car with a few boxes of paus between us and make our way towards Baba Charlie Nyonya Cakes, a door-to-door business established in 1988 by Baba Charlies grandmother, which has since become one of Melakas leading traditional Nyonya Cakes. We eagerly pick out favorites among the 23 types of kueh (RM0.60 to RM2) on display beside a home kitchen busy with ladies making kueh. Armed with a selection of Rempah Udang , Ondeh-Ondeh, Lebat Kacang and Kueh Koo Hitam for the long car ride ahead, we drive on towards Malim Jaya Curry Rice for some authentic Hainanese curry rice. Greeted by two bubbling pots of curry gravy and dark sauce simmering over a low fire, proprietor Leo Wah Fatt, 63, is all smiles as we ask him for recommendations. We end up each with a plate of white rice topped with savory braised pork, aromatic curry chicken and a side of stewed bean curd and eggs, drizzled with curry gravy and dark sauce. It isnt a very pretty sight, but as silence sweeps across the table, our plates are clean in no time. I think theres nothing special about these ingredients individually, but when you eat them altogether, they compliment each other to bring out a unique taste.
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MUAR
2 hours, 184 km from Kuala Lumpur Latitude: 2300N Longitude: 1023400E FAST FORWARD Seremban Kee Mei Siew Pau
1849 Jalan Tuk Ungku, 70100 Seremban, Negeri Sembilan Tel +606 631 6348 Fax +606 632 3442
Our curry rice fix continues at the Kedai Kopi Lu San in Muar, where third generation owner Wee Meng Cheng, 42, whips together a variety of dishes for us to taste. The walls of the pink-and-green tiled faade are donned with family photographs, kids drawings and auspicious calligraphy blessings collected over the years. This is tradition, he says, pointing to whatevers left of my plate of curry rice (RM3.50). We are an old shop but we also believe in improving ourselves. Its just like cutting hair, youve got to adapt to the taste out there. Muar, the second biggest town in Johor, is famous for its local delicacies and products like coffee powder, mee bandung, tao sar piah and otak-otak. In the sweltering heat, we find ourselves on Jalan Haji Abu, otherwise know as Glutton Street, a 100-metre stretch packed with roadside stalls hawking a plethora of Malaysian street food. It is easy to spot Otak-Otak Hang Kee, run from the back of a silver pickup truck. Wrapped in attap leaves, the snack made of fish meat and spices was delicious. The fish option (RM0.60) was filled with tender, juicy fresh minced fish and power-packed curry spices, while the prawn (RM0.70) alternative featured succulent chunks of prawn meat. Frozen packets (RM5.50 onwards) are also available for sale.
Nestled in the historic town of Melaka, a UNESCO World Heritage site, Casa del Rio is the perfect starting point to experience the rich and eclectic cultural heritage comprising Portuguese, Arabic, Dutch and Straits Chinese influences.
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Festive Celebrations
Tel +65 6733 8855 Concorde Hotel Singapore Tel +603 2144 2200 Concorde Hotel Kuala Lumpur Tel +603 5512 2200 Concorde Hotel Shah Alam Tel +603 8783 3118 Concorde Inn KLIA
For more information, please contact us: Tel +604 881 1711 Email reservations.penang@hardrockhotels.net
Concorde Hotels & Resorts Celebrate the season with Festive Feasts at Concorde Hotel Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, Shah Alam and Concorde Inn KLIA, our restaurants present stylish settings to suit all merry-making. With gourmet Christmas goodies, lavish buffet spreads and wonderful music, there is no better place to celebrate the festive season! You can also plan a family feast in the comfort of your own home this festive season with our selection of home-made gourmet delights. Visit www.concordehotelsresorts.com/festive2013 for the full list of Gourmet Christmas Goodies that are available for sale.
Hard Rock Hotel Penang As the saying goes, the early bird catches the worm. Save more when you plan ahead! Hard Rock Hotel Penang is swinging high again for you to play and stay with us. Book your stay at least 30 days in advance to enjoy 10% off hotel internet promotional room rates. Room is inclusive of breakfast for 2 persons. penang.hardrockhotels.net
For more information, please contact us: Tel +65 6739 8303 / 04 / 05 Email reservations.chs@concorde.net
For more information, please contact us: Tel +62 316 761 869 Email bookings@hardrockhotels.net
Concorde Hotel Singapore Say YES to a night of festive fun this Christmas and New Year from 14 December 2013 to 8 February 2014. Check into our Deluxe Rooms from S$218++ per room per night and receive complimentary buffet breakfast, free wireless Internet access and late check-out till 3pm. Terms and conditions apply. singapore.concordehotelsresorts.com
Hard Rock Hotel Bali Vacation like a rock star! Enjoy urban chic suite accommodations and service fit for rock n' roll royalty because here at Hard Rock, a rock star of your status would expect it. Book the package and choose to stay 3, 5 or 7 nights to enjoy benefits ranging from chauffeurdriven 8-hour trip, in-room dining with a bottle of wine and shopping credits at Rock Shop. bali.hardrockhotels.net
Hot Deal
For more information, please contact us: Tel +66 38 428 755 Email rooms.pattaya@hardrockhotels.net
Family Escape
For more information, please contact us: Tel +606 2896 888 Email reservation@casadelrio-melaka.com
The humble beginnings of Aik Cheong Coffee took shape in a quaint shop house along Temple Street in old Melaka Town. It has since grown to be one of Malaysias established family brands with a production capacity of about 60 million sachets of coffee and beverages a month. The family-run business distributes more than 100 products around the world, including the popular white coffee and kopi-o (black coffee). Its plant in Melaka is helmed by more than 200 workers and includes a roasting facility where more than 3,000 kg of coffee beans are roasted every day.
Hard Rock Hotel Pattaya Rock this festive season with a hot deal that you can't resist! Our special room package includes complimentary wi-fi internet usage and daily breakfast. Kings Club room booking enjoys full Kings Club benefits. Room rates start from THB 3,500++ per room per night. Terms and conditions apply. pattaya.hardrockhotels.net
Casa del Rio Kids eat and stay for free. It's time to kick back and have fun with the whole family. Enjoy great savings with complimentary stay and meals for the little ones. Package includes accommodation in a Studio King room, daily breakfast for 2 adults and 2 children (under 12 years), complimentary day bed for children, complimentary WIFI Internet access. Terms and conditions apply. casadelrio-melaka.com
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Roadside Wonders
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Pancakes are the stars of this no-name pushcart, which has been in operation for more than 50 years. More than 100 plates of peanut pancakes are sold everyday to crowds who eagerly await a magical mix of margarine, flour, peanut and sugar. Touted by locals as the best cendol in Batu Pahat, MMA Akbar Cendol is a family-run outfit that serves bowls of shaven ice, gula melaka, coconut milk and green starched noodles.
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The Grand Sea View Restaurant is one of Batu Pahats largest restaurants and popular with families for its dark sauce pork buns and fried fish with fresh fruits. Batu Pahats famous hawker centres like Glutton Square at Jalan Shah Bandar, Taman Soga and Taman Banang, are efficient ways of sampling its local delights.
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BATU PAHAT
2 hours / 140 km from Singapore Latitude: 15100N Longitude: 1025600E
You have to wait till I finish the next 15 orders, said Mr Chua Eng Chun, 47, with a look of concentration on his face. I nod eagerly. The scent of margarine and peanut in the air is too much to take. I was finally standing under the umbrella of this no-name pushcart responsible for churning out plates (about 100 a day) of legendary peanut pancake (min jiang kueh). The queues quickly form, as Mr Chua bounces from foot to foot mixing flour, turning hot iron plates filled with bubbly fix, sprinkling a very generous helping of peanut and spraying the pan with a secret concoction of peanut oil and margarine. His phone never stops beeping and it is humbling watching him multi-task sleekly with a smile on his face. The pancakes (RM5 for a whole plate of 10 pieces) come in thin and thick versions. Go for the thin crust, as it takes particular skill to perfect a thin-crusted min jiang kueh. Greasy and fresh from the pan, I bite through a rich, generous helping of peanut and sugar mix. The thicker version doesnt disappoint as well. Mr Chua, who has been operating the stall for some 20 years, picked up his skills from helping his father who started the business more than 50 years ago. Wiping the crumbs from my face, I ordered another two plates to takeaway but was eighth in the queue. It is a skill thats very hard to teach, he said, when I asked him about his plans of training an apprentice. Being a hawker is not an easy life, but my family pushes me on. Giddy from the pancakes, we move on to MMA Akbar Cendol (RM1), a stall that has been in existence for the last 80 years, to steal a breather from the heat. Touted by locals as the best cendol in Batu Pahat, the bowl of shaven ice, gula melaka (palm sugar), coconut milk and green starched noodles. It is one of Southeast Asias most celebrated traditional deserts, adored for its creamy and refreshing flavour. In search of some savory delights, we are directed to the Grand Sea View Restaurant. Rowdy with hungry families, we went straight for the kong bak pau or dark sauce pork buns (RM29 for half portion of 16 pieces). Glistening, the three-layered braised pork belly was soft, fragrant and mouthwatering, perfect with the white buns wrapped around it.
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pitstop
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KLUANG
1.5 hours / 127 km from Singapore Latitude: 2201N Longitude: 1031910E
Behind each dish was a story of heritage and dedication to ones culinary craft, a history often taken for granted by those who consume the dishes.
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PONTIAN
1 hour / 60km from Singapore Latitude: 12927N Longitude: 1032339E
Established in 2003 with just two acres of land, UK goat farm has grown to be a living advocate of the importance of ecological balance. Owner Goh Un Keng, 47, was a palm tree estate owner who turned to rearing goats for milk and meat production. Today, he oversees the care of some 6,000 goats, 4,000 sheep, as well as the production of crops like passion fruit, coconuts and more than 60 types of plants. The farms Argo Resort is a way for Goh to educate others on the importance of protecting the environment. Accommodation options include chalets and dormitories where guests can take a break from the city way of life. A three-hour guided farm tour (RM35 onwards for children, RM40 for adults) lets guests
bottle feed baby goats, learn about the feedstock-processing factory and observe the milking process. His vision is clear: I cant just let the children see goats. I have to build knowledge and show them by example through the workings of the farm on how to protect the earth and apply natural ecology.
UK Agro Resort
Plot 8, Project Pertanian Kluang, KM13 Jalan Batu Pahat, 86000 Kluang, Johor Tel +607 759 7555
We scoot into the car, full and ready to move on to our final stop of the food trail. The road leads us to the father of Pontian wanton meeHeng Heng. For pontian mee devotees, this institution led to the boom of such noodle stalls in various parts of Singapore and Malaysia. Run by Mr Loh Check Man, in his 50s, who took over the business from his father, the specialty of Pontian wanton mee (RM3.50), as compared to its cousins in Hong Kong, lies in the sauce. Instead of dark sauce, a Maggi ketchupbased sauce mixed with lard, soy sauce, vinegar and oil is used as base for the egg noodles. The fresh, home-made noodles are firm and crunchy and together with the sauce works out to be a tangy, slightly spicy and sour taste. We dont use inferior ingredients, says Mr Loh as he pinches a strand of noodles to check its texture. Our noodles dont contain any preservatives and are made with heart. As I slurped up the noodles on my plate, I paused to think about the conversations I had with hawkers we met over the last few days. Behind each delicacy was a story of heritage and dedication to ones culinary craft, a history often taken for granted by those who consume the dishes. The food trail has ignited within me, a newfound respect for hawkers who bear family responsibilities and continue their craft built on love for their fathers. This love extends beyond the physical dishes and is perhaps what keeps us going in the search of food cooked with heart.
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Heng Heng is an institution that specialises in Pontian wanton mee. Instead of dark sauce, a Maggi ketchup-based sauce mixed with lard, soy sauce, vinegar and oil is used as base for the egg noodles.
Zenxin Organic Park is Malaysias first public organic farm and prides itself on being the countrys leading producer, distributor and retailer of organic produce. There are more than 80 kinds of vegetables, fruits and herbs on the market, all of which are organically grown without chemical fertilizers or pesticides. There are plenty of activities for everyone in the family. Explore the farm on a self-guided tour by foot or bicycle or book a one-hour guided tour (upon reservation for a minimum of 20 people) to understand the workings of the farm and its philosophy of sustainable farming. We follow a shaded walkway that leads us through interesting plots of dragon fruit plants, passion fruit creepers, an organic herbs garden that grows more than 90 types of herbs and a happy garden, where guests help to maintain crops. There are also various camping and accommodation options, as well as fun farming activities for children to reconnect with nature and learn where their vegetables are from.
Zenxin Organic Park
Plot 47A & 47B, Batu 9, Jalan Batu Pahat, 86000 Kluang, Johor Tel: +607 759 5196 Opening hours: 9am to 9pm, daily.
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We reaped a bountiful harvest from our weeklong road trip, which took us to more than 10 locations across Malaysia. Shopping for local produce was perhaps the next best thing we could do to savour memories of this delightful journey.
1 Oh Swee Len Sesame Candy 6 DRied Fish 10 Goats Milk Body Wash 14 Pontian Pineapple
Headquartered in Singapore, HPL Hotels & Resorts is a hospitality management company, operated and wholly-owned by Hotel Properties Limited, a main-board listed company. Our collection provides unique experiences with high quality service in Malaysia, Singapore, Indonesia, Thailand and Maldives.
A traditional homemade snack made with glutinous f lour, yam cubes and sesame.
A product of UK Goat Farm, Malaysias largest farm specializing in products from goats and sheep.
These sweet and juicy pineapples are sold along the road at the fringes of pineapple plantations in Pontian.
2 PURe Honey
Bottled honey is a popular sweetener in place of sugar. It also has various uses in the kitchen.
Fish preserved or cured with salt, which usually has an overpowering smell.
Some benefits of goats milk lotion include skin nutrition, soothing bug bites and acne treatment.
Rice noodles are a convenient base for soups or quick stir-fries. Concorde Hotel Singapore Located on the lively Orchard Road, Concorde Hotel Singapore is ideally situated for shopping, entertainment and business. Perfect for business travellers, the hotel is within close proximity to the Central Business District, Integrated Resorts, 5 minutes away from the nearest Mass Rapid Transit (MRT) station and 25 minutes away from Changi International Airport. 100 Orchard Road Singapore 238840 Tel +65 6733 8855 Fax +65 6732 7886 Email singapore@concorde.net Jalan Pantai Cenang Mukim Kedawang, 07000 Langkawi Kedah, Malaysia Tel +604 955 2388 Fax +604 955 2228 Email info@casadelmarlangkawi.com singapore.concordehotelsresorts.com casadelmarlangkawi.com Jalan Pantai Banjar Pande Mas, Kuta, Bali Indonesia Tel +62 361 761 869 Fax +62 361 761 868 Email rooms.bali@hardrockhotels.net bali.hardrockhotels.net Casa del Mar Langkawi Set on the pristine Pantai Cenang beach, Casa del Marmeaning Home by the Sea in Spanishis a Mediterranean-style resort just 10 minutes from Langkawi Airport. A few minutes walk from the resort are a multitude of restaurants, night spots, shopping outlets and a night market. Hard Rock Hotel Bali Sprawling across three hectares of pristine tropical property, the island paradise is located in Kuta, the heart of Balis famous entertainment and shopping district. A paradise for couples, families and singles, the hotel is about 15 minutes away from the airport.
8 WalnUt Candy
Also known as chicken biscuits, gai zai beng is a kind of famous Cantonese biscuit snack with a distinct taste of five-spices powder
One of Chin Han Guan Biscuit Manufacturers famous products, this hand-made snack contains a pleasing mix of walnut and white sesame.
16 CoconUt Sweets
These sweets are vegetarian and an easy snack for people of different races in Malaysia.
Him Heang Pastries is one of Penangs famous old bakeries selling traditional Chinese pastries and delicious bean paste cookies.
Belacan is one of the most important ingredients in the history of Malaysian cooking. It is made of shrimp paste and traditionally used as a condiment or ready-made sauce.
Coffee bags are a quick option for a taste of old Malaysia. Just add water and sugar or milk to your liking.
Baked crispy buns with barbequed pork or chicken fillings with a f lakey and crunchy crust.
Concorde Hotel Kuala Lumpur At the heart of the citys Golden Triangle, Concorde Hotel Kuala Lumpur is a 10-minute drive from Kuala Lumpur Convention Centre and is within walking distance to the Bukit Nanas Monorail station, Malaysia Tourism Centre, Saloma Theatre Restaurant, Suria KLCC Shopping Centre and Petronas Twin Towers. 2 Jalan Sultan Ismail 50250 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia Tel +603 2144 2200 Fax +603 2144 1628 Email kl@concorde.net
Casa del Rio Melaka Located 148 km southeast of Kuala Lumpur, Casa del Rio nestles in the historic town of Melaka, a unesco World Heritage site. Meaning Home by the River in Spanish, the hotel is the perfect starting point to experience the rich cultural heritage of Portuguese, Arabic, Dutch and Straits Chinese. 88, Jalan Kota Laksamana 75200 Melaka Malaysia Tel +606 289 6888 Fax +606 289 6999 Email reservation@casadelriomelaka.com
Hard Rock Hotel Pattaya Overlooking the Gulf of Thailand, Hard Rock Hotel Pattaya is a vibrant beauty with a mellow vibe. The internationally renowned resort town of Pattaya offers shopping and entertainment on a grand scale, all reached by a short walk along the picturesque waterfront. The hotel is less than 90 minutes drive from Suvarnabhumi Airport. 429 Moo 9 Pattaya Beach Road Chonburi 20150, Thailand Tel +66 38 428 755-9 Fax +66 38 421 673 Email rooms.pattaya@hardrockhotels.net pattaya.hardrockhotels.net
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Concorde Hotel Shah Alam Nestled in the heart of Shah Alam, the hotel is 30 minutes drive from Kuala Lumpur city and approximately 40 minutes drive from Kuala Lumpur International Airport. Overlooking the spectacular Blue Mosque, guests will enjoy easy access to Shah Alam Convention Centre, the Shah Alam Sports Complex, Bukit Cahaya Agricultural Park, Sunway Lagoon Theme Park and world class golf courses. 3 Jalan Tengku Ampuan Zabedah C9/C 40100 Shah Alam, Selangor, Malaysia Tel +603 5512 2200 Fax +603 5512 2233 Email shah@concorde.net
The Lakehouse Cameron Highlands Located 200 km north of Kuala Lumpur, set against lush state reserve forests 1,000 m above sea level in the Cameron Highlands, The Lakehouse is a Tudor-style country house overlooking the Sultan Abu Bakar Lake.
Hard Rock Hotel Penang Situated on nearly two hectares of land by the popular Batu Ferringhi beachfront, Hard Rock Hotel Penang provides luxurious service and amenities with a unique rock n roll edge. The hotel is 25 minutes drive from Georgetown and 40 minutes drive from the airport.
30th Mile Ringlet 39200 Cameron Highlands Pahang, Malaysia Tel +605 495 6152 Fax +605 495 6213 Email info@lakehousecameron.com
Batu Ferringhi Beach 11100 Penang, Malaysia Tel +604 881 1711 Fax +604 881 2155 Email info.penang@hardrockhotels.net
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Concorde Inn Kuala Lumpur International Airport Amidst a sanctuary of greenery, the hotel is 3 minutes away from Kuala Lumpur International Airport and 20 minutes away from Low Cost Carrier Terminal. Equipped with modern amenities and within close proximity to F1 Sepang International Circuit, Concorde Inn is an ideal choice for travellers and motor sports enthusiasts. Kuala Lumpur city centre is a mere 28-minute ride via the Express Railway link. Jalan KLIA 1/60 Kuala Lumpur International Airport 43900 Sepang, Selangor, Malaysia Tel +603 8783 3118 Fax +603 8783 1211 Email klia@concorde.net sepang.concordehotelsresorts.com
Rihiveli Beach Resort Maldives On the South Mal Atoll, an hour away by speed boat from Mal International Airport, the resort island of Rihiveli comprises a collection of thatched bungalows surrounded by a crystal-clear lagoon. Rediscover the joy of face-to-face communication in a convivial, back to basics environmenta reminder of the time before electronic gadgets.
Gili Lankanfushi Maldives A short 20-minute boat ride away from Mal the capital of Maldives, lies Gili Lankanfushi. This eco-luxury resort occupies a small coral island in a sparkling lagoon, with jetties threading across the water out to spacious villas.
South Mal Atoll Republic of Maldives Tel +960 664 3731 Fax +960 664 0052 Email info@rihivelimaldives.com
Lankanfushi Island, North Mal Atoll Republic of Maldives Tel +960 664 0304 Fax +960 664 0305 Email info@gililankanfushi.com
rihivelimaldives.com
gililankanfushi.com
The driveway of UK Goat Farm, Malaysias largest goat and sheep farm, is surrounded by 100 acres of lush grazing land.