Seven Pillars of Wisdom

by

T.E. Lawrence
[With Illustrations and Maps

Author
To S.A. I loved you, so I drew these tides of men into my hands and wrote my will across the sky in stars To earn you Freedom, the seven-pillared worthy house, that your eyes might be shining for me hen we came. !eath seemed my servant on the road, till we were near and saw you waiting" hen you smiled, and in sorrowful envy he outran me and took you apart" Into his #uietness. $ove, the way-weary, groped to your body, our brief wage ours for the moment %efore earth&s soft hand e'plored your shape, and the blind worms grew fat upon (our substance. )en prayed me that I set our work, the inviolate house, as a menory of you. %ut for fit monument I shattered it, unfinished" and now The little things creep out to patch themselves hovels

in the marred shadow *f your gift.

Mr Geoffrey Dawson persuaded All Souls College to give me leisure, in 1919-1920, to write a out t!e Ara "evolt# Sir $er ert %a&er let me live and wor& in !is 'estminster !ouses# (!e oo& so written passed in 1921 into proof) w!ere it was fortunate in t!e friends w!o *riti*i+ed it# ,arti*ularly it owes its t!an&s to Mr# and Mrs# %ernard S!aw for *ountless suggestions of great value and diversity- and for all t!e present semi*olons# .t does not pretend to e impartial# . was fig!ting for my !and, upon my own midden# ,lease ta&e it as a personal narrative pie*e out of memory# . *ould not ma&e proper notes- indeed it would !ave een a rea*! of my duty to t!e Ara s if . !ad pi*&ed su*! flowers w!ile t!ey foug!t# My superior offi*ers, 'ilson, /oy*e, Dawnay, 0ew*om e and Davenport *ould ea*! tell a li&e tale# (!e same is true of Stirling, 1oung, 2loyd and Maynard- of %u3ton and 'interton- of "oss, Stent and Siddons- of ,ea&e, $om y, S*ott-$iggins and Garland- of 'ordie, %ennett and Ma*.ndoe- of %assett, S*ott, Goslett, 'ood and Gray- of $inde, Spen*e and %rig!t- of %rodie and ,as*oe, Gilman and Grisent!waite, Green!ill, Dowsett and 'ade- of $enderson, 2eeson, Ma&ins and 0unan# And t!ere were many ot!er leaders or lonely fig!ters to w!om t!is self-regardant pi*ture is not fair# .t is still less fair, of *ourse, li&e all war-stories, to t!e un-named ran& and file- w!o miss t!eir s!are of *redit, as t!ey must do, until t!ey *an write t!e despat*!es# (# Cranwell, 15#6#27 LIST OF CONTENTS .0("8D9C(8"1 C$A,(4" .0("8D9C(.80# :oundations of "evolt %88; 804# (!e Dis*overy of :eisal %88; ('8# 8pening t!e Ara 8ffensive %88; ($"44# A "ailway Diversion %88; :89"# 43tending to A&a a %88; :.<4# Mar&ing (ime %88; S.=# (!e "aid upon t!e %ridges %88; S4<40# (!e Dead Sea Campaign %88; 4.G$(# (!e "uin of $ig! $ope %88; 0.04# %alan*ing for a 2ast 4ffort %88; (40# (!e $ouse is ,erfe*ted 4,.28G94 A,,40D.C4S ILLUSTRATIONS ,2A(4S Aut!or :eysal 4mir A dulla Auda A u (ayi Aut!or Allen y %om ing in 'adi :ara 4# S#

4ntering Damas*us S;4(C$4S A :or*ed 2anding 'ind A Miss*arriage ;indergarten A 2iterary Met!od Caesar MA,S Map . Map .. Map ... Map .<

I!T"#$%&T#"' &()PTE"
(!e story w!i*! follows was first written out in ,aris during t!e ,ea*e Conferen*e, from notes >otted daily on t!e mar*!, strengt!ened y some reports sent to my *!iefs in Cairo# Afterwards, in t!e autumn of 1919, t!is first draft and some of t!e notes were lost# .t seemed to me !istori*ally needful to reprodu*e t!e tale, as per!aps no one ut myself in :eisal?s army !ad t!oug!t of writing down at t!e time w!at we felt, w!at we !oped, w!at we tried# So it was uilt again wit! !eavy repugnan*e in 2ondon in t!e winter of 1919-20 from memory and my surviving notes# (!e re*ord of events was not dulled in me and per!aps few a*tual mista&es *rept in--e3*ept in details of dates or num ers-- ut t!e outlines and signifi*an*e of t!ings !ad lost edge in t!e !a+e of new interests# Dates and pla*es are *orre*t, so far as my notes preserved t!em- ut t!e personal names are not# Sin*e t!e adventure some of t!ose w!o wor&ed wit! me !ave uried t!emselves in t!e s!allow grave of pu li* duty# :ree use !as een made of t!eir names# 8t!ers still possess t!emselves, and !ere &eep t!eir se*re*y# Sometimes one man *arried various names# (!is may !ide individuality and ma&e t!e oo& a s*atter of featureless puppets, rat!er t!an a group of living people- ut on*e good is told of a man, and again evil, and some would not t!an& me for eit!er lame or praise# (!is isolated pi*ture t!rowing t!e main lig!t upon myself is unfair to my %ritis! *olleagues# 4spe*ially . am most sorry t!at . !ave not told w!at t!e non-*ommissioned of us did# (!ey were ut wonderful, espe*ially w!en it is ta&en into a**ount t!at t!ey !ad not t!e motive, t!e imaginative vision of t!e end, w!i*! sustained offi*ers# 9nfortunately my *on*ern was limited to t!is end, and t!e oo& is >ust a designed pro*ession of Ara freedom from Me**a to Damas*us# .t is intended to rationali+e t!e *ampaign, t!at everyone may see !ow natural t!e su**ess was and !ow inevita le, !ow little dependent on dire*tion or rain, !ow mu*! less on t!e outside assistan*e of t!e few %ritis!# .t was an Ara war waged and led y Ara s for an Ara aim in Ara ia# My proper s!are was a minor one, ut e*ause of a fluent pen, a free spee*!, and a *ertain adroitess of rain, . too& upon myself, as . des*ri e it, a mo*& prima*y# .n reality . never !ad any offi*e among t!e Ara s- was never in *!arge of t!e %ritis! mission wit! t!em# 'ilson, /oy*e, 0ew*om e, Dawnay and Davenport were all over my !ead# . flattered myself t!at . was too young, not t!at t!ey !ad more !eart or mind in t!e wor&, . did my est# 'ilson, 0ew*om e, Dawnay, Davenport, %u3ton, Mars!all, Stirling, 1oung, Maynard, "oss, S*ott, 'interton, 2loyd, 'ordie, Siddons, Goslett, Stent $enderson, Spen*e, Gilman, Garland, %rodie, Ma&ins, 0unan, 2eeson, $orn y, ,ea&e, S*ott-$iggins, "amsay, 'ood, $inde, %rig!t, Ma*.ndoe, Green!ill, Grisent!waite, Dowsett, %ennett, 'ade, Gray, ,as*oe and t!e ot!ers also did t!eir est#

.t would e impertinent in me to praise t!em# '!en . wis! to say ill of one outside our num er, . do it- t!oug! t!ere is less of t!is t!an was in my diary, sin*e t!e passage of time seems to !ave lea*!ed out men?s stains# '!en . wis! to praise outsiders, . do it- ur our family affairs are our own# 'e did w!at we set out to do, and !ave t!e satisfa*tion of t!at &nowledge# (!e ot!ers !ave li erty some day to put on re*ord t!eir story, one parallel to mine ut not mentioning more of me t!an . of t!em, for ea*! of us did !is >o y !imself and as !e pleased, !ardly seeing !is friends# .n t!ese pages t!e !istory is not of t!e Ara movement, ut of me in it# .t is a narrative of daily life, mean !appenings, little people# $ere are no lessons for t!e world, no dis*losures to s!o*& peoples# .t is filled wit! trivial t!ings, partly t!at no one mista&e for !istory t!e ones from w!i*! some day a man may ma&e !istory, and partly for t!e pleasure it gave me to re*all t!e fellows!ip of t!e revolt# 'e were fond toget!er, e*ause of t!e sweep of t!e open pla*es, t!e taste of wide winds, t!e sunlig!t, and t!e !opes in w!i*! we wor&ed# (!e moral fres!ness of t!e world-to- e into3i*ated us# 'e were wroug!t up in ideas ine3pressi le and vaporous, ut to e foug!t for# 'e lived many lives in t!ose w!irling *ampaigns, never sparing ourselves- yet w!en we a*!ieved and t!e new world dawned, t!e old men *ame out again and too& our vi*tory to re-ma&e in t!e li&eness of t!e former world t!ey &new# 1out! *ould win, ut !ad not learned to &eep- and was pitia ly wea& against age# 'e stammered t!at we !ad wor&ed for a new !eaven and a new eart!, and t!ey t!an&ed us &indly and made t!eir pea*e# All men dream- ut nor e@ually, (!ose w!o dream y nig!t in t!e dusty re*esses oft!eir minds wa&e in t!e day to find t!at it was vanity- ut t!e dreamers of t!e day are dangerous men, for t!ey may a*t t!eir dream wit! open eyes, to ma&e it possi le# (!is . did# . meant to ma&e a new nation, to restoreA a lost influen*e, to give twenty millions of Semites t!e foundations on w!i*! to uild an inspired dream-pala*e of t!eir national t!oug!ts# So !ig! an aim *alled out t!e in!erent no ility of t!eir minds, and made t!em play a generous part in events- ut w!en we won, it was *!arged against me t!at t!e %ritis! petrol royalties in Mesopotamia were e*ome du ious, and :ren*! Colonial poli*y ruined in t!e 2evant# . am afraid t!at . !ope so# 'e pay for t!ese t!ings too mu*! in !onour and in inno*ent lives# . went up t!e (igris wit! one !undred Devon (erritorials, young, *lean, delig!tful fellows, full of t!e power of !appiness and of ma&ing women and *!ildren glad# %y t!em one saw vividly !ow great it was to e t!eir &in, and 4nglis!# And we were *asting t!em y t!ousands into t!e fire to t!e worst of deat!s, not to win t!e war ut t!at t!e *orn and ri*e and oil of Mesopotamia mig!t e ours# (!e only need was to defeat our enemies B(ur&ey among t!emC, and t!is was at last done in t!e wisdom of Allen y wit! less t!an four !undred &illed, y turning to our uses t!e !ands of t!e oppressed in (ur&ey# . am proudest of my t!irty fig!ts in t!at . did not !ave any of our own lood s!ed# All our su >e*t provin*es to me were not wort! one dead 4nglis!man# 'e were t!ree years over t!is effort and . !ave !ad to !old a*& many t!ings w!i*! may not yet e said# 4ven so, parts of t!is oo& will e new to nearly all w!o see it, and many will loo& for familiar t!ings and not find t!em# 8n*e . reported fully to my *!iefs, ut learnt t!at t!ey were rewarding me on my own eviden*e# (!is was not as it s!ould e# $onours may e ne*essary in a professional army, as so many emp!ati* mentions in despat*!es, and y enlisting we !ad put ourselves, willingly or not, in t!e position of regular soldiers# :or my wor& on t!e Ara front . !ad determined to a**ept not!ing# (!e Ca inet raised t!e Ara s to fig!t for us y definite promises of self-government afterwards# Ara s elieve in persons, not in institutions# (!ey saw in me a free agent of t!e %ritis! Government, and demanded from me an endorsement of its written promises# So . !ad to >oin t!e *onspira*y, and, for w!at my word was wort!, assured t!e men of t!eir reward# .n our two years? partners!ip under fire t!ey grew a**ustomed to elieving me and to t!in& my Government, li&e myself, sin*ere# .n t!is !ope t!ey performed some fine t!ings, ut, of *ourse, instead of eing proud of w!at we did toget!er, . was itterly as!amed# .t was evident from t!e eginning t!at if we won t!e war t!ese promises would e dead paper, and !ad . een an !onest adviser of t!e Ara s . would !ave advised t!em to go !ome and not ris& t!eir

lives fig!ting for su*! stuff- ut . salved myself wit! t!e !ope t!at, y leading t!ese Ara s madly in t!e final vi*tory . would esta lis! t!em, wit! arms in t!eir !ands, in a position so assured Bif not dominantC t!at e3pedien*y would *ounsel to t!e Great ,owers a fair settlement of t!eir *laims# .n ot!er words, . presumed Bseeing no ot!er leader wit! t!e will and powerC t!at . would survive t!e *ampaigns, and e a le to defeat not merely t!e (ur&s on t!e attlefield, ut my own *ountry and its allies in t!e *oun*il-*!am er# .t was an immodest presumption - it is not yet- *lear if . su**eeded- ut it is *lear t!at . !ad no s!adow of leave to engage t!e Ara s, un&nowing, in su*! !a+ard# . ris&ed t!e fraud, on my *onvi*tion t!at Ara !elp was ne*essary to our *!eap and speedy vi*tory in t!e 4ast, and t!at etter we win and rea& our word t!an lose# (!e dismissal of Sir $enry M*Ma!on *onfirmed my elief in our essential insin*erity- ut . *ould not so e3plain myself to General 'ingate w!ile t!e war lasted, sin*e . was nominally under !is orders, and !e did not seem sensi le of !ow false !is own standing was# (!e only t!ing remaining was to refuse rewards for eing a su**essful tri*&ster and, to prevent t!is unpleasantness arising, . egan in my reports to *on*eal t!e true stories of t!ings, and to persuade t!e few Ara s w!o &new to an e@ual reti*en*e# .n t!is oo& also, for t!e last time, . mean to e my own >udge of w!at to say#

I!T"#$%&TI#!. *oundations of "evolt

&()PTE"S I T# +II
Some Englishmen, of whom Kitchener was chief, believed that a rebellion of Arabs against Turks would enable England, while fighting Germany, simultaneously to defeat her ally Turkey. Their knowledge of the nature and power and country of the Arabic speaking peoples made them think that the issue of such a rebellion would be happy! and indicated its character and method. So they allowed it to begin, having obtained for it formal assurances of help from the "ritish Government. yet none the less the rebellion of the Sherif of #ecca came to most as a surprise, and found the allies unready. $t aroused mi%ed feelings and made strong friends and strong enemies, amid whose clashing &ealousies its affairs began to miscarry.

&()PTE" I
Some of t!e evil of my tale may !ave een in!erent in our *ir*umstan*es# :or years we lived any!ow wit! one anot!er in t!e na&ed desert, under t!e indifferent !eaven# %y day t!e !ot sun fermented us) and we were di++ied y t!e eating wind# At nig!t we were stained y dew, and s!amed into pettiness y t!e innumera le silen*es of stars# 'e were a self-*entred army wit!out parade or gesture, devoted to freedom, t!e se*ond of man?s *reeds, a purpose so ravenous t!at it devoured all our strengt!, a !ope so trans*endent t!at our earlier am itions faded in its glare# As time went y our need to fig!t for t!e ideal in*reased to an un@uestioning possession, riding wit! spur and rein over our dou ts# 'illy-nilly it e*ame a fait!# 'e !ad sold ourselves into its slavery, mana*led ourselves toget!er in its *!ain-gang, owed ourselves to serve its !oliness wit! all our good and ill *ontent# (!e mentality of ordinary !uman slaves is terri le--t!ey !ave lost t!e world--and we !ad surrendered, not ody alone, ut soul to t!e overmastering greed of vi*tory# %y our own a*t we were drained of morality, of volition, of responsi ility, li&e dead leaves in t!e wind#

(!e everlasting attle stripped from us *are of our own lives or of ot!ers?# 'e !ad ropes a out our ne*&s, and on our !eads pri*es w!i*! s!owed t!at t!e enemy intended !ideous tortures for us if we were *aug!t# 4a*! day some of us passed) and t!e living &new t!emselves >ust sentient puppets on God?s stage- indeed, our tas&master was mer*iless, mer*iless, so long as our ruised feet *ould stagger forward on t!e road# (!e wea& envied t!ose tired enoug! to die) for su**ess loo&ed so remote, and failure a near and *ertain, if s!arp, release from toil# 'e lived always in t!e stret*! or sag of nerves, eit!er on t!e *rest or in t!e troug! of waves of feeling# (!is impoten*y was itter to us, and made us live only for t!e seen !ori+on, re*&less w!at spite we infli*ted or endured, sin*e p!ysi*al sensation s!owed itself meanly transient# Gusts of *ruelty, perversions, lusts ran lig!tly over t!e surfa*e wit!out trou ling us) for t!e moral laws w!i*! !ad seemed to !edge a out t!ese silly a**idents must e yet fainter words# 'e !ad learned t!at t!ere were pangs too s!arp, griefs too deep, e*stasies too !ig! for our finite selves to register# '!en emotion rea*!ed t!is pit*! t!e mind *!o&ed) and memory went w!ite till t!e *ir*umstan*es were !umdrum on*e more# Su*! e3altation of t!oug!t, w!ile it let adrift t!e spirit, and gave it li*en*e in strange airs, lost it t!e old patient rule over t!e ody# (!e ody was too *oarse to feel t!e utmost of our sorrows and of our >oys# (!erefore, we a andoned it as ru is!- we left it elow us to mar*! forward, a reat!ing simula*rum, on its own unaided level, su >e*t to influen*es from w!i*! in normal times our instin*ts would !ave s!run&# (!e men were young and sturdy) and !ot fles! and lood un*ons*iously *laimed a rig!t in t!em and tormented t!eir ellies wit! strange longings# 8ur privations and dangers fanned t!is virile !eat, in a *limate as ra*&ing as *an e *on*eived# 'e !ad no s!ut pla*es to e alone in, no t!i*& *lot!es to !ide our nature# Man in all t!ings lived *andidly wit! man# (!e Ara was y nature *ontinent) and t!e use of universal marriage !ad nearly a olis!ed irregular *ourses in !is tri es# (!e pu li* women of t!e rare settlements we en*ountered in our mont!s of wandering would !ave een not!ing to our num ers, even !ad t!eir raddled meat een palata le to a man of !ealt!y parts# .n !orror of su*! sordid *ommer*e our yout!s egan indifferently to sla&e one anot!er?s few needs in t!eir own *lean odies--a *old *onvenien*e t!at, y *omparison, seemed se3less and even pure# 2ater, some egan to >ustify t!is sterile pro*ess, and swore t!at friends @uivering toget!er in t!e yielding sand wit! intimate !ot lim s in supreme em ra*e, found t!ere !idden in t!e dar&ness a sensual *o-effi*ient of t!e mental passion w!i*! was welding our souls and spirits in one flaming effort# Several, t!irsting to punis! appetites t!ey *ould not w!olly prevent, too& a savage pride in degrading t!e ody, and offered t!emselves fier*ely in any !a it w!i*! promised p!ysi*al pain or filt!# . was sent to t!ese Ara s as a stranger, una le to t!in& t!eir t!oug!ts or su s*ri e t!eir eliefs, ut *!arged y duty to lead t!em forward and to develop to t!e !ig!est any movement of t!eirs profita le to 4ngland in !er war# .f . *ould not assume t!eir *!ara*ter, . *ould at least *on*eal my own, and pass among t!em wit!out evident fri*tion, neit!er a dis*ord nor a *riti* ut an unnoti*ed influen*e# Sin*e . was t!eir fellow, . will not e t!eir apologist or advo*ate# (o-day in my old garments, . *ould play t!e ystander, o edient to t!e sensi ilities of our t!eatre # # # ut it is more !onest to re*ord t!at t!ese ideas and a*tions t!en passed naturally# '!at now loo&s wanton or sadi* seemed in t!e field inevita le, or >ust unimportant routine# %lood was always on our !ands- we were li*ensed to it# 'ounding and &illing seemed ep!emeral pains, so very rief and sore was life wit! us# 'it! t!e sorrow of living so great, t!e sorrow of punis!ment !ad to e pitiless# 'e lived for t!e day and died for it# '!en t!ere was reason and desire to punis! we wrote our lesson wit! gun or w!ip immediately in t!e sullen fles! of t!e sufferer, and t!e *ase was eyond appeal# (!e desert did not afford t!e refined slow penalties of *ourts and gaols# 8f *ourse our rewards and pleasures were as suddenly sweeping as our trou les) ut, to me in parti*ular, t!ey ul&ed less large# %edouin ways were !ard even for t!ose roug!t up to t!em, and for strangers terri le- a deat! in life# '!en t!e mar*! or la our ended . !ad no energy to re*ord sensation, nor w!ile it lasted any leisure to see t!e spiritual loveliness w!i*! sometimes *ame upon us y t!e way# .n my notes, t!e *ruel rat!er t!an t!e eautiful found pla*e# 'e no dou t en>oyed more t!e rare

moments of pea*e and forgetfulness) ut . remem er more t!e agony, t!e terrors, and t!e mista&es# 8ur life is not summed up in w!at . !ave written Bt!ere are t!ings not to e repeated in *old lood for very s!ameC) ut w!at . !ave written was in and of our life# ,ray God t!at men reading t!e story will not, for love of t!e glamour of strangeness, go out to prostitute t!emselves and t!eir talents in serving anot!er ra*e# A man w!o gives !imself to e a possession of aliens leads a 1a!oo life, !aving artered !is soul to a rute-master# $e is not of t!em# $e may stand against t!em, persuade !imself of a mission, atter and twist t!em into somet!ing w!i*! t!ey, of t!eir own a**ord, would not !ave een# (!en !e is e3ploiting !is old environment to press t!em out of t!eirs# 8r, after my model, !e may imitate t!em so well t!at t!ey spuriously imitate !im a*& again# (!en !e is giving away !is own environmentpretending to t!eirs) and preten*es are !ollow, wort!less t!ings# .n neit!er *ase does !e do a t!ing of !imself, nor a t!ing so *lean as to e !is own Bwit!out t!oug!t of *onversionC, letting t!em ta&e w!at a*tion or rea*tion t!ey please from t!e silent e3ample# .n my *ase, t!e effort for t!ese years to live in t!e dress of Ara s, and to imitate t!eir mental foundation, @uitted me of my 4nglis! self, and let me loo& at t!e 'est and its *onventions wit! new eyes- t!ey destroyed it all for me# At t!e same time . *ould not sin*erely ta&e on t!e Ara s&in- it was an affe*tation only# 4asily was a man made an infidel, ut !ardly mig!t !e e *onverted to anot!er fait!# . !ad dropped one form and not ta&en on t!e ot!er, and was e*ome li&e Mo!ammed?s *offin in our legend, wit! a resultant feeling of intense loneliness in life, and a *ontempt, not for ot!er men, ut for all t!ey do# Su*! deta*!ment *ame at times to a man e3!austed y prolonged p!ysi*al effort and isolation# $is ody plodded on me*!ani*ally, w!ile !is reasona le mind left !im, and from wit!out loo&ed down *riti*ally on !im, wondering w!at t!at futile lum er did and w!y# Sometimes t!ese selves would *onverse in t!e void) and t!en madness was very near, as . elieve it would e near t!e man w!o *ould see t!ings t!roug! t!e veils at on*e of two *ustoms, two edu*ations, two environments#

Map 1

&()PTE" II
A first diffi*ulty of t!e Ara movement was to say w!o t!e Ara s were# %eing a manufa*tured people, t!eir name !ad een *!anging in sense slowly year y year# 8n*e it meant an Ara ian# (!ere was a *ountry *alled Ara ia) ut t!is was not!ing to t!e point# (!ere was a language *alled Ara i*) and in it lay t!e test# .t was t!e *urrent tongue of Syria and ,alestine, of Mesopotamia, and of t!e great peninsula *alled Ara ia on t!e map# %efore t!e Moslem *on@uest, t!ese areas were in!a ited y diverse peoples, spea&ing languages of t!e Ara i* family# 'e *alled t!em Semiti*, ut Bas wit! most s*ientifi* termsC in*orre*tly# $owever, Ara i*, Assyrian, %a ylonian, ,!oeni*ian, $e rew, Aramai* and Syria* were related tongues) and indi*ations of *ommon influen*es in t!e past, or even of a *ommon origin, were strengt!ened y our &nowledge t!at t!e appearan*es and *ustoms of t!e present Ara i*-spea&ing peoples of Asia, w!ile as varied as a field--full of poppies, !ad an e@ual and essential li&eness# 'e mig!t wit! perfe*t propriety *all t!em *ousins--and *ousins *ertainly, if sadly, aware of t!eir own relations!ip# (!e Ara i*-spea&ing areas of Asia in t!is sense were a roug! parallelogram# (!e nort!ern side ran from Ale3andretta, on t!e Mediterranean, a*ross Mesopotamia eastward to t!e (igris# (!e sout! side was t!e edge of t!e .ndian 8*ean, from Aden to Mus*at# 8n t!e west it was ounded y t!e Mediterranean, t!e Sue+ Canal, and t!e "ed Sea to Aden# 8n t!e east y t!e (igris, and t!e ,ersian Gulf to Mus*at# (!is s@uare of land, as large as .ndia, formed t!e !omeland of our Semites, in w!i*! no foreign ra*e !ad &ept a permanent footing, t!oug! 4gyptians, $ittites, ,!ilistines, ,ersians, Gree&s, "omans, (ur&s and :ran&s !ad variously tried# All !ad in t!e end een ro&en, and t!eir s*attered elements drowned in t!e strong *!ara*teristi*s of t!e Semiti* ra*e# Semites !ad sometimes

pus!ed outside t!is area, and t!emselves een drowned in t!e outer world# 4gypt, Algiers, Moro**o, Malta, Si*ily, Spain, Cili*ia and :ran*e a sor ed and o literated Semiti* *olonies# 8nly in (ripoli of Afri*a, and in t!e everlasting mira*le of /ewry, !ad distant Semites &ept some of t!eir identity and for*e# (!e origin of t!ese peoples was an a*ademi* @uestion) ut for t!e understanding of t!eir revolt t!eir present so*ial and politi*al differen*es were important, and *ould only e grasped y loo&ing at t!eir geograp!y# (!is *ontinent of t!eirs fell into *ertain great regions, w!ose gross p!ysi*al diversities imposed varying !a its on t!e dwellers in t!em# 8n t!e west t!e parallelogram was framed, from Ale3andretta to Aden, y a mountain elt, *alled Bin t!e nort!C Syria, and t!en*e progressively sout!ward *alled ,alestine, Midian, $e>a+, and lastly 1emen# .t !ad an average !eig!t of per!aps t!ree t!ousand feet, wit! pea&s of ten to twelve t!ousand feet# .t fa*ed west, was well watered wit! rain and *loud from t!e sea, and in general was fully peopled# Anot!er range of in!a ited !ills, fa*ing t!e .ndian 8*ean, was t!e sout! edge of t!e parallelogram# (!e eastern frontier was at first an alluvial plain *alled Mesopotamia, ut sout! of %asra a level littoral, *alled ;uweit, and $asa, to Gattar# Mu*! of t!is plain was peopled# (!ese in!a ited !ills and plains framed a gulf of t!irsty desert, in w!ose !eart was an ar*!ipelago of watered and populous oases *alled ;asim and Arid!# .n t!is group of oases lay t!e true *entre of Ara ia, t!e preserve of its native spirit, and its most *ons*ious individuality# (!e desert lapped it round and &ept it pure of *onta*t# (!e desert w!i*! performed t!is great fun*tion around t!e oases, and so made t!e *!ara*ter of Ara ia, varied in nature# Sout! of t!e oases it appeared to e a pat!less sea of sand, stret*!ing nearly to t!e populous es*arpment of t!e .ndian 8*ean s!ore, s!utting it out from Ara ian !istory, and from all influen*e on Ara ian morals and politi*s# $ad!ramaut, as t!ey *alled t!is sout!ern *oast, formed part of t!e !istory of t!e Dut*! .ndies) and its t!oug!t swayed /ava rat!er t!an Ara ia# (o t!e west of t!e oases, etween t!em and t!e $e>a+ !ills, was t!e 0e>d desert, an area of gravel and lava, wit! little sand in it# (o t!e east of t!ese oases, etween t!em and ;uweit, spread a similar e3panse of gravel, ut wit! some great stret*!es of soft sand, ma&ing t!e road diffi*ult# (o t!e nort! of t!e oases lay a elt of sand, and t!en an immense gravel and lava plain, filling up everyt!ing etween t!e eastern edge of Syria and t!e an&s of t!e 4up!rates w!ere Mesopotamia egan# (!e pra*ti*a ility of t!is nort!ern desert for men and motor-*ars ena led t!e Ara revolt to win its ready su**ess# (!e !ills of t!e west and t!e plains of t!e east were t!e parts of Ara ia always most populous and a*tive# .n parti*ular on t!e west, t!e mountains of Syria and ,alestine, of $e>a+ and 1emen, entered time and again into t!e *urrent of our 4uropean life# 4t!i*ally, t!ese fertile !ealt!y !ills were in 4urope, not in Asia, >ust as t!e Ara s loo&ed always to t!e Mediterranean, not to t!e .ndian 8*ean, for t!eir *ultural sympat!ies, for t!eir enterprises, and parti*ularly for t!eir e3pansions, sin*e t!e migration pro lem was t!e greatest and most *omple3 for*e in Ara ia, and general to it, !owever it mig!t vary in t!e different Ara i* distri*ts# .n t!e nort! BSyriaC t!e irt! rate was low in t!e *ities and t!e deat! rate !ig!, e*ause of t!e insanitary *onditions and t!e !e*ti* life led y t!e ma>ority# Conse@uently t!e surplus peasantry found openings in t!e towns, and were t!ere swallowed up# .n t!e 2e anon, w!ere sanitation !ad een improved, a greater e3odus of yout! too& pla*e to Ameri*a ea*! year, t!reatening Bfor t!e first time sin*e Gree& daysC to *!ange t!e outloo& of an entire distri*t# .n 1emen t!e solution was different# (!ere was no foreign trade, and no massed industries to a**umulate population in un!ealt!y pla*es# (!e towns were >ust mar&et towns, as *lean and simple as ordinary villages# (!erefore t!e population slowly in*reased) t!e s*ale of living was roug!t down very low) and a *ongestion of num ers was generally felt# (!ey *ould not emigrate overseas) for t!e Sudan was even worse *ountry t!an Ara ia, and t!e few tri es w!i*! did venture a*ross were *ompelled to modify t!eir manner of life and t!eir Semiti* *ulture profoundly, in order to e3ist# (!ey *ould not move nort!ward along t!e !ills) for t!ese were arred y t!e !oly town of Me**a and its port /idda- an alien elt, *ontinually reinfor*ed y strangers from .ndia and /ava and %o&!ara and

Afri*a, very strong in vitality, violently !ostile to t!e Semiti* *ons*iousness, and maintained despite e*onomi*s and geograp!y and *limate y t!e artifi*ial fa*tor of a world-religion# (!e *ongestion of 1emen, t!erefore, e*oming e3treme, found its only relief in t!e east, y for*ing t!e wea&er aggregations of its order down and down t!e slopes of t!e !ills along t!e 'idian, t!e !alf-waste distri*t of t!e great water- earing valleys of %is!a, Dawasir, "anya and (ara a, w!i*! ran out towards t!e deserts of 0e>d# (!ese wea&er *lans !ad *ontinually to e3*!ange good springs and fertile palms for poorer springs and s*antier palms, till at last t!ey rea*!ed an area w!ere a proper agri*ultural life e*ame impossi le# (!ey t!en egan to e&e out t!eir pre*arious !us andry y reeding s!eep and *amels, and in time *ame to depend more and more on t!ese !erds for t!eir living# :inally, under a last impulse from t!e straining population e!ind t!em, t!e order people Bnow almost w!olly pastoralC, were flung out of t!e furt!est *ra+y oasis into t!e untrodden wilderness as nomads# (!is pro*ess, to e wat*!ed to-day wit! individual families and tri es to w!ose mar*!es an e3a*t name and date mig!t e put, must !ave een going on sin*e t!e first day of full settlement of 1emen# (!e 'idian elow Me**a and (aif are *rowded wit! t!e memories and pla*e-names of !alf a !undred tri es w!i*! !ave gone from t!ere, and may e found to-day in 0e>d, in /e el S!am-mar, in t!e $amad, even on t!e frontiers of Syria and Mesopotamia# (!ere was t!e sour*e of migration, t!e fa*tory of nomads, t!e springing of t!e gulf-stream of desert wanderers# :or t!e people of t!e desert were as little stati* as t!e people of t!e !ills# (!e e*onomi* life of t!e desert was ased on t!e supply of *amels, w!i*! were est red on t!e rigorous upland pastures wit! t!eir strong nutritive t!orns# %y t!is industry t!e %edouins lived) and it in turn moulded t!eir life, apportioned t!e tri al areas, and &ept t!e *lans revolving t!roug! t!eir rote of spring, summer and winter pasturages, as t!e !erds *ropped t!e s*anty growt!s of ea*! in turn# (!e *amel mar&ets in Syria, Mesopotamia, and 4gypt determined t!e population w!i*! t!e deserts *ould support, and regulated stri*tly t!eir standard of living# So t!e desert li&ewise overpeopled itself upon o**asion) and t!en t!ere were !eavings and t!rustings of t!e *rowded tri es as t!ey el owed t!emselves y natural *ourses towards t!e lig!t# (!ey mig!t not go sout! towards t!e in!ospita le sand or sea# (!ey *ould not turn west) for t!ere t!e steep !ills of $e>a+ were t!i*&ly lined y mountain peoples ta&ing full advantage of t!eir defensiveness# Sometimes t!ey went towards t!e *entral oases of Arid! and ;asim, and, if t!e tri es loo&ing for new !omes were strong and vigorous, mig!t su**eed in o**upying parts of t!em# .f, !owever, t!e desert !ad not t!is strengt!, its peoples were pus!ed gradually nort!, up etween Medina of t!e $e>a+ and ;asim of 0e>d, till t!ey found t!emselves at t!e for& of two roads# (!ey *ould stri&e eastward, y 'adi "um! or /e el S!am-mar, to follow eventually t!e %atn to S!amiya, w!ere t!ey would e*ome riverine Ara s of t!e 2ower 4up!rates) or t!ey *ould *lim , y slow degrees, t!e ladder of western oases--$ena&iya, ;!ei ar, (eima, /auf, and t!e Sir!an--till fate saw t!em nearing /e el Druse, in Syria, or watering t!eir !erds a out (admor of t!e nort!ern desert, on t!eir way to Aleppo or Assyria# 0or t!en did t!e pressure *ease- t!e ine3ora le trend nort!ward *ontinued# (!e tri es found t!emselves driven to t!e very edge of *ultivation in Syria or Mesopotamia# 8pportunity and t!eir ellies persuaded t!em of t!e advantages of possessing goats, and t!en of possessing s!eep) and lastly t!ey egan to sow, if only a little arley for t!eir animals# (!ey were now no longer %edouin, and egan to suffer li&e t!e villagers from t!e ravages of t!e nomads e!ind# .nsensi ly, t!ey made *ommon *ause wit! t!e peasants already on t!e soil, and found out t!at t!ey, too, were peasantry# So we see *lans, orn in t!e !ig!lands of 1emen, t!rust y stronger *lans into t!e desert, w!ere, unwillingly, t!ey e*ame nomad to &eep t!emselves alive# 'e see t!em wandering, every year moving a little furt!er nort! or a little furt!er east as *!an*e !as sent t!em down one or ot!er of t!e well-roads of t!e wilderness, till finally t!is pressure drives t!em from t!e desert again into t!e sown, wit! t!e li&e unwillingness of t!eir first s!rin&ing e3periment in nomad life# (!is was t!e *ir*ulation w!i*! &ept vigour in t!e Semiti* ody# (!ere were few, if indeed t!ere was a single nort!ern Semite, w!ose an*estors !ad not at some dar& age passed t!roug! t!e desert# (!e mar& of nomadism, t!at most deep and iting so*ial dis*ipline, was on ea*! of t!em in !is degree#

&()PTE" III
.f tri esman and townsman in Ara i*-spea&ing Asia were not different ra*es, ut >ust men in different so*ial and e*onomi* stages, a family resem lan*e mig!t e e3pe*ted in t!e wor&ing of t!eir minds, and so it was only reasona le t!at *ommon elements s!ould appear in t!e produ*t of all t!ese peoples# .n t!e very outset, at t!e first meeting wit! t!em, was found a universal *learness or !ardness of elief, almost mat!emati*al in its limitation, and repellent in its unsympat!eti* form# Semites !ad no !alf-tones in t!eir register of vision# (!ey were a people of primary *olours, or rat!er of la*& and w!ite, w!o saw t!e world always in *ontour# (!ey were a dogmati* people, despising dou t, our modern *rown of t!orns# (!ey did not understand our metap!ysi*al diffi*ulties, our introspe*tive @uestionings# (!ey &new only trut! and untrut!, elief and un elief, wit!out our !esitating retinue of finer s!ades# (!is people was la*& and w!ite, not only in vision, ut y inmost furnis!ing- la*& and w!ite not merely in *larity, ut in apposition# (!eir t!oug!ts were at ease only in e3tremes# (!ey in!a ited superlatives y *!oi*e# Sometimes in*onsistents seemed to possess t!em at on*e in >oint sway) ut t!ey never *ompromised- t!ey pursued t!e logi* of several in*ompati le opinions to a surd ends, wit!out per*eiving t!e in*ongruity# 'it! *ool !ead and tran@uil >udgement, impertur a ly un*ons*ious of t!e flig!t, t!ey os*illated from asymptote to asymptote#D (!ey were a limited, narrow-minded people, w!ose inert intelle*ts lay fallow in in*urious resignation# (!eir imaginations were vivid, ut not *reative# (!ere was so little Ara art in Asia t!at t!ey *ould almost e said to !ave !ad no art, t!oug! t!eir *lasses were li eral patrons, and !ad en*ouraged w!atever talents in ar*!ite*ture, or *erami*s, or ot!er !andi*raft t!eir neig! ours and !elots displayed# 0or did t!ey !andle great industries- t!ey !ad no organi+ations of mind or ody# (!ey invented no systems of p!ilosop!y, no *omple3 myt!ologies# (!ey steered t!eir *ourse etween t!e idols of t!e tri e and of t!e *ave# (!e least mor id of peoples, t!ey !ad a**epted t!e gift of Me un@uestioningly, as a3iomati*# (o t!em it was a t!ing inevita le, entailed on man, a usufru*t, eyond *ontrol# Sui*ide was a t!ing impossi le, and deat! no grief# (!ey were a people of spasms, of up!eavals, of ideas, t!e ra*e of t!e individual genius# (!eir movements were t!e more s!o*&ing y *ontrast wit! t!e @uietude of every day, t!eir great men greater y *ontrast wit! t!e !umanity of t!eir mo # (!eir *onvi*tions were y instin*t, t!eir a*tivities intuitional# (!eir largest manufa*ture was of *reeds- almost t!ey were monopolists of revealed religions# (!ree of t!ese efforts !ad endured among t!em- two of t!e t!ree !ad also orne e3port Bin modified formsC to non-Semiti* peoples# C!ristianity, translated into t!e diverse spirits of Gree& and 2atin and (eutoni* tongues, !ad *on@uered 4urope and Ameri*a# .slam in various transformations was su >e*ting Afri*a and parts of Asia# (!ese were Semiti* su**esses# (!eir failures t!ey &ept to t!emselves# (!e fringes of t!eir deserts were strewn wit! ro&en fait!s# .t was signifi*ant t!at t!is wra*& of fallen religions lay a out t!e meeting of t!e desert and t!e sown# .t pointed to t!e generation of all t!ese *reeds# (!ey were assertions, not arguments) so t!ey re@uired a prop!et to set t!em fort!# (!e Ara s said t!ere !ad een forty t!ousand prop!ets- we !ad re*ord of at least some !undreds# 0one of t!em !ad een of t!e wilderness) ut t!eir lives were after a pattern# (!eir irt! set t!em in *rowded pla*es# An unintelligi le passionate yearning drove t!em out into t!e desert# (!ere t!ey lived a greater or lesser time in meditation and p!ysi*al a andonment) and t!en*e t!ey returned wit! t!eir imagined message arti*ulate, to prea*! it to t!eir old, and now dou ting, asso*iates# (!e founders of t!e t!ree great *reeds fulfilled t!is *y*le- t!eir possi le *oin*iden*e was proved a law y t!e parallel life-!istories of t!e myriad ot!ers, t!e unfortunate w!o failed, w!om we mig!t >udge of no less true profession, ut for w!om time and disillusion !ad not !eaped up dry souls ready to e set on fire# (o t!e t!in&ers of t!e town t!e impulse into 0itria !ad ever een irresisti le, not pro a ly t!at t!ey found God dwelling t!ere, ut t!at in its solitude t!ey !eard more *ertainly t!e living word t!ey roug!t wit! t!em# (!e *ommon ase of all t!e Semiti* *reeds, winners or losers, was t!e ever present idea of world-

wort!lessness# (!eir profound rea*tion from matter led t!em to prea*! areness, renun*iation, poverty) and t!e atmosp!ere of t!is invention stifled t!e minds of t!e desert pitilessly# A first &nowledge of t!eir sense of t!e purity of rarefa*tion was given me in early years, w!en we !ad ridden far out over t!e rolling plains of 0ort! Syria to a ruin of t!e "oman period w!i*! t!e Ara s elieved was made y a prin*e of t!e order as a desert-pala*e for !is @ueen# (!e *lay of its uilding was said to !ave een &neaded for greater ri*!ness, not wit! water, ut wit! t!e pre*ious essential oils of flowers# My guides, sniffing t!e air li&e dogs, led me from *rum ling room to room, saying, ?(!is is >essamine, t!is violet, t!is rose?# %ut at last Da!oum drew me- ?Come and smell t!e very sweetest s*ent of all?, and we went into t!e main lodging, to t!e gaping window so*&ets of its eastern fa*e, and t!ere dran& wit! open mout!s of t!e effortless, empty, eddyless wind of t!e desert, t!ro ing past# (!at slow reat! !ad een orn somew!ere eyond t!e distant 4up!rates and !ad dragged its way a*ross many days and nig!ts of dead grass, to its first o sta*le, t!e man-made walls of our ro&en pala*e# A out t!em it seemed to fret and linger, murmuring in a y-spee*!# ?(!is,? t!ey told me, ?is t!e est- it !as no taste#? My Ara s were turning t!eir a*&s on perfumes and lu3uries to *!oose t!e t!ings in w!i*! man&ind !ad !ad no s!are or part# (!e %eduin of t!e desert, orn and grown up in it, !ad em ra*ed wit! all !is soul t!is na&edness too !ars! for volunteers, for t!e reason, felt ut inarti*ulate, t!at t!ere !e found !imself indu ita ly free# $e lost material ties, *omforts, all superfluities and ot!er *ompli*ations to a*!ieve a personal li erty w!i*! !aunted starvation and deat!# $e saw no virtue in poverty !erself- !e en>oyed t!e little vi*es and lu3uries--*offee, fres! water, women--w!i*! !e *ould still preserve# .n !is life !e !ad air and winds, sun and lig!t, open spa*es and a great emptiness# (!ere was no !uman effort, no fe*undity in 0ature- >ust t!e !eaven a ove and t!e unspotted eart! eneat!# (!ere un*ons*iously !e *ame near God# God was to !im not ant!ropomorp!i*, not tangi le, not moral nor et!i*al, not *on*erned wit! t!e world or wit! !im, not natural- ut t!e eing EG"44;-see image ?Gree& image 1? elowF, t!us @ualified not y divestiture ut y investiture, a *ompre!ending %eing, t!e egg of all a*tivity, wit! nature and matter >ust a glass refle*ting $im#

Greek image 1 (!e %eduin *ould not loo& for God wit!in !im- !e was too sure t!at !e was wit!in God# $e *ould not *on*eive anyt!ing w!i*! was or was not God, '!o alone was great) yet t!ere was a !omeliness, an everyday-ness of t!is *limati* Ara God, w!o was t!eir eating and t!eir fig!ting and t!eir lusting, t!e *ommonest of t!eir t!oug!ts, t!eir familiar resour*e and *ompanion, in a way impossi le to t!ose w!ose God is so wistfully veiled from t!em y despair of t!eir *arnal unwort!iness of $im and y t!e de*orum of formal wors!ip# Ara s felt no in*ongruity in ringing God into t!e wea&nesses and appetites of t!eir least *redita le *auses# $e was t!e most familiar of t!eir words) and indeed we lost mu*! elo@uen*e w!en ma&ing $im t!e s!ortest and ugliest of our monosylla les# (!is *reed of t!e desert seemed ine3pressi le in words, and indeed in t!oug!t# .t was easily felt as an influen*e, and t!ose w!o went into t!e desert long enoug! to forget its open spa*es and its emptiness were inevita ly t!rust upon God as t!e only refuge and r!yt!m of eing# (!e %edawi mig!t e a nominal Sunni, or a nominal 'a!a i, or anyt!ing else in t!e Semiti* *ompass, and !e would ta&e it very lig!tly, a little in t!e manner of t!e wat*!men at Gion?s gate w!o dran& eer and laug!ed in Gion e*ause t!ey were Gionists# 4a*! individual nomad !ad !is revealed religion, not oral or traditional or e3pressed, ut instin*tive in !imself) and so we got all t!e Semiti* *reeds wit! Bin *!ara*ter and essen*eC a stress on t!e emptiness of t!e world and t!e fullness of God) and a**ording to t!e power and opportunity of t!e eliever was t!e e3pression of t!em# (!e desert dweller *ould not ta&e *redit for !is elief# $e !ad never een eit!er evangelist or proselyte# $e arrived at t!is intense *ondensation of !imself in God y s!utting !is eyes to t!e world,

and to all t!e *omple3 possi ilities latent in !im w!i*! only *onta*t wit! wealt! and temptations *ould ring fort!# $e attained a sure trust and a powerful trust, ut of !ow narrow a fieldA $is sterile e3perien*e ro ed !im of *ompassion and perverted !is !uman &indness to t!e image of t!e waste in w!i*! !e !id# A**ordingly !e !urt !imself, not merely to e free, ut to please !imself# (!ere followed a delig!t in pain, a *ruelty w!i*! was more to !im t!an goods# (!e desert Ara found no >oy li&e t!e >oy of voluntarily !olding a*&# $e found lu3ury in a negation, renun*iation, self restraint# $e made na&edness of t!e mind as sensuous as na&edness of t!e ody# $e saved !is own soul, per!aps, and wit!out danger, ut in a !ard selfis!ness# $is desert was made a spiritual i*e-!ouse, in w!i*! was preserved inta*t ut unimproved for all ages a vision of t!e unity of God# (o it sometimes t!e see&ers from t!e outer world *ould es*ape for a season and loo& t!en*e in deta*!ment at t!e nature of t!e generation t!ey would *onvert# (!is fait! of t!e desert was impossi le in t!e towns# .t was at on*e too strange, too simple, too impalpa le for e3port and *ommon use# (!e idea, t!e ground- elief of all Semiti* *reeds was waiting t!ere, ut it !ad to e diluted to e made *ompre!ensi le to us# (!e s*ream of a at was too s!rill for many ears- t!e desert spirit es*aped t!roug! our *oarser te3ture# (!e prop!ets returned from t!e desert wit! t!eir glimpse of God, and t!roug! t!eir stained medium Bas t!roug! a dar& glassC s!owed somet!ing of t!e ma>esty and rillian*e w!ose full vision would lind, deafen, silen*e us, serve us as it !ad served t!e %eduin, setting !im un*out!, a man apart# (!e dis*iples, in t!e endeavour to strip t!emselves and t!eir neig! ours of all t!ings a**ording to t!e Master?s word, stum led over !uman wea&nesses and failed# (o live, t!e villager or townsman must fill !imself ea*! day wit! t!e pleasures of a*@uisition and a**umulation, and y re ound off *ir*umstan*e e*ome t!e grossest and most material of men# (!e s!ining *ontempt of life w!i*! led ot!ers into t!e arest as*eti*ism drove !im to despair# $e s@uandered !imself !eedlessly, as a spendt!rift- ran t!roug! !is in!eritan*e of fles! in !asty longing for t!e end# (!e /ew in t!e Metropole at %rig!ton, t!e miser, t!e wors!ipper of Adonis, t!e le*!er in t!e stews of Damas*us were ali&e signs of t!e Semiti* *apa*ity for en>oyment, and e3pressions of t!e same nerve w!i*! gave us at t!e ot!er pole t!e self-denial of t!e 4ssenes, or t!e early C!ristians, or t!e first ;!alifas, finding t!e way to !eaven fairest for t!e poor in spirit# (!e Semite !overed etween lust and self-denial# Ara s *ould e swung on an idea as on a *ord) for t!e unpledged allegian*e of t!eir minds made t!em o edient servants# 0one of t!em would es*ape t!e ond till su**ess !ad *ome, and wit! it responsi ility and duty and engagements# (!en t!e idea was gone and t!e wor& ended--in ruins# 'it!out a *reed t!ey *ould e ta&en to t!e four *orners of t!e world B ut not to !eavenC y eing s!own t!e ri*!es of eart! and t!e pleasures of it) ut if on t!e road, led in t!is fas!ion, t!ey met t!e prop!et of an idea, w!o !ad now!ere to lay !is !ead and w!o depended for !is food on *!arity or irds, t!en t!ey would all leave t!eir wealt! for !is inspiration# (!ey were in*orrigi ly *!ildren of t!e idea, fe*&less and *olour- lind, to w!om ody and spirit were for ever and inevita ly opposed# (!eir mind was strange and dar&, full of depressions and e3altations, la*&ing in rule, ut wit! more of ardour and more fertile in elief t!an any ot!er in t!e world# (!ey were a people of starts, for w!om t!e a stra*t was t!e strongest motive, t!e pro*ess of infinite *ourage and variety, and t!e end not!ing# (!ey were as unsta le as water, and li&e water would per!aps finally prevail# Sin*e t!e dawn of life, in su**essive waves t!ey !ad een das!ing t!emselves against t!e *oasts of fles!# 4a*! wave was ro&en, ut, li&e t!e sea, wore away ever so little of t!e granite on w!i*! it failed, and some day, ages yet, mig!t roll un*!e*&ed over t!e pla*e w!ere t!e material world !ad een, and God would move upon t!e fa*e of t!ose waters# 8ne su*! wave Band not t!e leastC . raised and rolled efore t!e reat! of an idea, till it rea*!ed its *rest, and toppled over and fell at Damas*us# (!e was! of t!at wave, t!rown a*& y t!e resistan*e of vested t!ings, will provide t!e matter of t!e following wave, w!en in fullness of time t!e sea s!all e raised on*e more#

&()PTE" I+
(!e first great rus! round t!e Mediterranean !ad s!own t!e world t!e power of an e3*ited Ara for a

s!ort spell of intense p!ysi*al a*tivity) ut w!en t!e effort urned out t!e la*& of enduran*e and routine in t!e Semiti* mind e*ame as evident# (!e provin*es t!ey !ad overrun t!ey negle*ted, out of s!eer distaste of system, and !ad to see& t!e !elp of t!eir *on@uered su >e*ts, or of more vigorous foreigners, to administer t!eir ill-&nit and in*!oate empires# So, early in t!e Middle Ages, t!e (ur&s found a footing in t!e Ara States, first as servants, t!en as !elpers, and t!en as a parasite growt! w!i*! *!o&ed t!e life out of t!e old ody politi*# (!e last p!ase was of enmity, w!en t!e $ulagus or (imurs sated t!eir lood lust, urning and destroying everyt!ing w!i*! ir&ed t!em wit! a pretension of superiority# Ara *ivili+ations !ad een of an a stra*t nature, moral and intelle*tual rat!er t!an applied) and t!eir la*& of pu li* spirit made t!eir e3*ellent private @ualities futile# (!ey were fortunate in t!eir epo*!4urope !ad fallen ar arous) and t!e memory of Gree& and 2atin learning was fading from men?s minds# %y *ontrast t!e imitative e3er*ise of t!e Ara s seemed *ultured, t!eir mental a*tivity progressive, t!eir state prosperous# (!ey !ad performed real servi*e in preserving somet!ing of a *lassi*al past for a mediaeval future# 'it! t!e *oming of t!e (ur&s t!is !appiness e*ame a dream# %y stages t!e Semites of Asia passed under t!eir yo&e, and found it a slow deat!# (!eir goods were stripped from t!em) and t!eir spirits s!rivelled in t!e num ing reat! of a military Government# (ur&is! rule was gendarme rule, and (ur&is! politi*al t!eory as *rude as its pra*ti*e# (!e (ur&s taug!t t!e Ara s t!at t!e interests of a se*t were !ig!er t!an t!ose of patriotism- t!at t!e petty *on*erns of t!e provin*e were more t!an nationality# (!ey led t!em y su tle dissensions to distrust one anot!er# 4ven t!e Ara i* language was anis!ed from *ourts and offi*es, from t!e Government servi*e, and from superior s*!ools# Ara s mig!t only serve t!e State y sa*rifi*e of t!eir ra*ial *!ara*teristi*s# (!ese measures were not a**epted @uietly# Semiti* tena*ity s!owed itself in t!e many re ellions of Syria, Mesopotamia and Ara ia against t!e grosser forms of (ur&is! penetration) and resistan*e was also made to t!e more insidious attempts at a sorption# (!e Ara s would not give up t!eir ri*! and fle3i le tongue for *rude (ur&is!- instead, t!ey filled (ur&is! wit! Ara i* words, and !eld to t!e treasures of t!eir own literature# (!ey lost t!eir geograp!i*al sense, and t!eir ra*ial and politi*al and !istori*al memories) ut t!ey *lung t!e more tig!tly to t!eir language, and ere*ted it almost into a fat!erland of its own# (!e first duty of every Moslem was to study t!e ;oran, t!e sa*red oo& of .slam, and in*identally t!e greatest Ara literary monument# (!e &nowledge t!at t!is religion was !is own, and t!at only !e was perfe*tly @ualified to understand and pra*tise it, gave every Ara a standard y w!i*! to >udge t!e anal a*!ievements of t!e (ur&# (!en *ame t!e (ur&is! revolution, t!e fall of A dul $amid, and t!e suprema*y of t!e 1oung (ur&s# (!e !ori+on momentarily roadened for t!e Ara s# (!e 1oung-(ur& movement was a revolt against t!e !ierar*!i* *on*eption of .slam and t!e pan-.slami* t!eories of t!e old Sultan, w!o !ad aspired, y ma&ing !imself spiritual dire*tor of t!e Moslem world, to e also B eyond appealC its dire*tor in temporal affairs# (!ese young politi*ians re elled and t!rew !im into prison, under t!e impulse of *onstitutional t!eories of a sovereign state# So, at a time w!en 'estern 4urope was >ust eginning to *lim out of nationality into internationality, and to rum le wit! wars far removed from pro lems of ra*e, 'estern Asia egan to *lim out of Cat!oli*ism into nationalist politi*s, and to dream of wars for self-government and self-sovereignty, instead of for fait! or dogma# (!is tenden*y !ad ro&en out first and most strongly in t!e 0ear 4ast, in t!e little %al&an States, and !ad sustained t!em t!roug! an almost unparalleled martyrdom to t!eir goal of separation from (ur&ey# 2ater t!ere !ad een nationalist movements in 4gypt, in .ndia, in ,ersia, and finally in Constantinople, w!ere t!ey were fortified and made pointed y t!e new Ameri*an ideas in edu*ation- ideas w!i*!, w!en released in t!e old !ig! 8riental atmosp!ere, made an e3plosive mi3ture# (!e Ameri*an s*!ools, tea*!ing y t!e met!od of in@uiry, en*ouraged s*ientifi* deta*!ment and free e3*!ange of views# Huite wit!out intention t!ey taug!t revolution, sin*e it was impossi le for an individual to e modern in (ur&ey and at t!e same time loyal, if !e !ad een orn of one of t!e su >e*t ra*es--Gree&s, Ara s, ;urds, Armenians or Al anians--over w!om t!e (ur&s were so long !elped to &eep dominion#

(!e 1oung (ur&s, in t!e *onfiden*e of t!eir first su**ess, were *arried away y t!e logi* of t!eir prin*iples, and as protest against ,an-.slam prea*!ed 8ttoman rot!er!ood# (!e gulli le su >e*t ra*es--far more numerous t!an t!e (ur&s t!emselves-- elieved t!at t!ey were *alled upon to *ooperate in uilding a new 4ast# "us!ing to die tas& Bfull of $er ert Spen*er and Ale3ander $amiltonC t!ey laid down platforms of sweeping ideas, and !ailed t!e (ur&s as partners# (!e (ur&s, terrified at t!e for*es t!ey !ad let loose, drew t!e fires as suddenly as t!ey !ad sto&ed t!em# (ur&ey made (ur&is! for t!e (ur&s--'eni Turan-- e*ame t!e *ry# 2ater on, t!is poli*y would turn t!em towards t!e res*ue of t!eir irredenti--t!e (ur&is! populations su >e*t to "ussia in Central Asia) ut, first of all, t!ey must purge t!eir 4mpire of su*! irritating su >e*t ra*es as resisted t!e ruling stamp# (!e Ara s, t!e largest alien *omponent of (ur&ey, must first e dealt wit!# A**ordingly t!e Ara deputies were s*attered, t!e Ara so*ieties for idden, t!e Ara nota les pros*ri ed# Ara i* manifestations and t!e Ara i* language were suppressed y 4nver ,as!a more sternly t!an y A dul $amid efore !im# $owever, t!e Ara s !ad tasted freedom- t!ey *ould not *!ange t!eir ideas as @ui*&ly as t!eir *ondu*t) and t!e staffer spirits among t!em were not easily to e put down# (!ey read t!e (ur&is! papers, putting ?Ara ? for (ur&? in t!e patrioti* e3!ortations# Suppression *!arged t!em wit! un!ealt!y violen*e# Deprived of *onstitutional outlets t!ey e*ame revolutionary# (!e Ara so*ieties went underground, and *!anged from li eral *lu s into *onspira*ies# (!e A&!ua, t!e Ara mot!er so*iety, was pu li*ly dissolved# .t was repla*ed in Mesopotamia y t!e dangerous A!ad, a very se*ret rot!er!ood, limited almost entirely to Ara offi*ers in t!e (ur&is! Army, w!o swore to a*@uire t!e military &nowledge of t!eir masters, and to turn it against t!em, in t!e servi*e of t!e Ara people, w!en t!e moment of re ellion *ame# .t was a large so*iety, wit! a sure ase in t!e wild part of Sout!ern .ra&, w!ere Sayid (ale , t!e young /o!n 'il&es of t!e Ara movement, !eld t!e power in !is unprin*ipled fingers# (o it elonged seven out of every ten Mesopotamian- orn offi*ers) and t!eir *ounsel was so well &ept t!at mem ers of it !eld !ig! *ommand in (ur&ey to t!e last# '!en t!e *ras! *ame, and Allen y rode a*ross Armageddon and (ur&ey fell, one vi*e-president of t!e so*iety was *ommanding t!e ro&en fragments of t!e ,alestine armies on t!e retreat, and anot!er was dire*ting t!e (ur&is! for*es a*ross-/ordan in t!e Amman area# 1et later, after t!e armisti*e, great pla*es in t!e (ur&is! servi*e were still !eld y men ready to turn on t!eir masters at a word from t!eir Ara leaders# (o most of t!em t!e word was never given) for t!ose so*ieties were pro-Ara only, willing to fig!t for not!ing ut Ara independen*e) and t!ey *ould see no advantage in supporting t!e Allies rat!er t!an t!e (ur&s, sin*e t!ey did not elieve our assuran*es t!at we would leave t!em free# .ndeed, many of t!em preferred an Ara ia united y (ur&ey in misera le su >e*tion, to an Ara ia divided up and slot!ful under t!e easier *ontrol of several 4uropean powers in sp!eres of influen*e# Greater t!an t!e A!ad was t!e :eta!, t!e so*iety of freedom in Syria# (!e landowners, t!e writers, t!e do*tors, t!e great pu li* servants lin&ed t!emselves in t!is so*iety wit! a *ommon oat!, passwords, signs, a press and a *entral treasury, to ruin t!e (ur&is! 4mpire# 'it! t!e noisy fa*ility of t!e Syrian-an ape-li&e people !aving mu*! of t!e /apanese @ui*&ness, ut s!allow--t!ey speedily uilt up a formida le organi+ation# (!ey loo&ed outside for !elp, and e3pe*ted freedom to *ome y entreaty, not y sa*rifi*e# (!ey *orresponded wit! 4gypt, wit! t!e A!ad Bw!ose mem ers, wit! true Mesopotamian dourness, rat!er despised t!emC, wit! t!e S!erif of Me**a, and wit! Great %ritain- everyw!ere see&ing t!e ally to serve t!eir turn# (!ey also were deadly se*ret) and t!e Government, t!oug! it suspe*ted t!eir e3isten*e, *ould find no *redi le eviden*e of t!eir leaders or mem ers!ip# .t !ad to !old its !and until it *ould stri&e wit! eviden*e enoug! to satisfy t!e 4nglis! and :ren*! diplomats w!o a*ted as modern pu li* opinion in (ur&ey# (!e war in 191I wit!drew t!ese agents, and left t!e (ur&is! Government free to stri&e# Mo ili+ation put all power into t!e !ands of t!ose mem ers--4nver, (alaat and /emal--w!o were at on*e t!e most rut!less, t!e most logi*al, and t!e most am itious of t!e 1oung (ur&s# (!ey set t!emselves to stamp out all non-(ur&is! *urrents in t!e State, espe*ially Ara and Armenian nationalism# :or t!e first step t!ey found a spe*ious and *onvenient weapon in t!e se*ret papers of a :ren*! Consul in Syria, w!o left e!ind !im in !is Consulate *opies of *orresponden*e Ba out Ara

freedomC w!i*! !ad passed etween !im and an Ara *lu , not *onne*ted wit! t!e :eta! ut made up of t!e more tal&ative and less formida le intelligen(ia of t!e Syrian *oast# (!e (ur&s, of *ourse, were delig!ted) for ?*olonial? aggression in 0ort! Afri*a !ad given t!e :ren*! a la*& reputation in t!e Ara i*-spea&ing Moslem world) and it served /emal well to s!ow !is *o-religionists t!at t!ese Ara nationalists were infidel enoug! to prefer :ran*e to (ur&ey# .n Syria, of *ourse, !is dis*losures !ad little novelty) ut t!e mem ers of t!e so*iety were &nown and respe*ted, if somew!at a*ademi*, persons) and t!eir arrest and *ondemnation, and t!e *rop of deportations, e3iles, and e3e*utions to w!i*! t!eir trial led, moved t!e *ountry to its dept!s, and taug!t t!e Ara s of t!e :eta! t!at if t!ey did not profit y t!eir lesson, t!e fate of t!e Armenians would e upon t!em# (!e Armenians !ad een well armed and organi+ed) ut t!eir leaders !ad failed t!em# (!ey !ad een disarmed and destroyed pie*emeal, t!e men y massa*re, t!e women and *!ildren y eing driven and overdriven along t!e wintry roads into t!e desert, na&ed and !ungry, t!e *ommon prey of any passer- y, until deat! too& t!em# (!e 1oung (ur&s !ad &illed t!e Armenians, not e*ause t!ey were C!ristians, ut e*ause t!ey were Armenians) and for t!e same reason t!ey !erded Ara Moslems and Ara C!ristians into t!e same prison, and !anged t!em toget!er on t!e same s*affold# /emal ,as!a united all *lasses, *onditions and *reeds in Syria, under pressure of a *ommon misery and peril, and so made a *on*erted revolt possi le# (!e (ur&s suspe*ted t!e Ara offi*ers and soldiers in t!e Army, and !oped to use against t!em t!e s*attering ta*ti*s w!i*! !ad served against t!e Armenians# At first transport diffi*ulties stood in t!eir way) and t!ere *ame a dangerous *on*entration of Ara divisions Bnearly one t!ird of t!e original (ur&is! Army was Ara i* spea&ingC in 0ort! Syria early in 1915# (!ey ro&e t!ese up w!en possi le, mar*!ing t!em off to 4urope, to t!e Dardanelles, to t!e Cau*asus, or t!e Canal--anyw!ere, so long as t!ey were put @ui*&ly into t!e firing-line, or wit!drawn far from t!e sig!t and !elp of t!eir *ompatriots# A $oly 'ar was pro*laimed to give t!e ?9nion and ,rogress? anner somet!ing of t!e traditional san*tity of t!e Calip!?s attle-order in t!e eyes of t!e old *leri*al elements) and t!e S!erif of Me**a was invited--or rat!er ordered--to e*!o t!e *ry#

&()PTE" +
(!e position of t!e S!erif of Me**a !ad long een anomalous# (!e title of ?S!erif implied des*ent from t!e prop!et Mo!ammed t!roug! !is daug!ter :atima, and $assan, !er elder son# Aut!enti* S!erifs were ins*ri ed on t!e family tree--an immense roll preserved at Me**a, in *ustody of t!e 4mir of Me**a, t!e ele*ted S!erif of S!erifs, supposed to e t!e senior and no lest of all# (!e prop!et?s family !ad !eld temporal rule in Me**a for t!e last nine !undred years, and *ounted some two t!ousand persons# (!e old 8ttoman Governments regarded t!is *lan of manti*rati* peers wit! a mi3ture of reveren*e and distrust# Sin*e t!ey were too strong to e destroyed, t!e Sultan salved !is dignity y solemnly *onfirming t!eir 4mir in pla*e# (!is empty approval a*@uired dignity y lapse of time, until t!e new !older egan to feel t!at it added a final seal to !is ele*tion# At last t!e (ur&s found t!at t!ey needed t!e $e>a+ under t!eir un@uestioned sway as part of t!e stage furniture for t!eir new pan-.slami* notion# (!e fortuitous opening of t!e Sue+ Canal ena led t!em to garrison t!e $oly Cities# (!ey pro>e*ted t!e $e>a+ "ailway, and in*reased (ur&is! influen*e among t!e tri es y money, intrigue, and armed e3peditions# As t!e Sultan grew stronger t!ere !e ventured to assert !imself more and more alongside t!e S!erif, even in Me**a itself, and upon o**asion ventured to depose a S!erif too magnifi*ent for !is views, and to appoint a su**essor from a rival family of t!e *lan in !opes of winning t!e usual advantages from dissension# :inally, A dul $amid too& away some of t!e family to Constantinople into !onoura le *aptivity# Amongst t!ese was $ussein i n Ali, t!e future ruler, w!o was !eld a prisoner for nearly eig!teen years# $e too& t!e opportunity to provide !is sons--Ali, A dulla, :eisal, and Geid-wit! t!e modern edu*ation and e3perien*e w!i*! afterwards ena led t!em to lead t!e Ara armies to su**ess#

'!en A dul $amid fell, t!e less wily 1oung (ur&s reversed !is poli*y and sent a*& S!erif $ussein to Me**a as 4mir# $e at on*e set to wor& uno trusively to restore t!e power of t!e 4mirate, and strengt!ened !imself on t!e old asis, &eeping t!e w!ile *lose and friendly tou*! wit! Constantinople t!roug! !is sons A dulla, vi*e-*!airman of t!e (ur&is! $ouse, and :eisal, mem er for /idda# (!ey &ept !im informed of politi*al opinion in t!e *apital until war ro&e out, w!en t!ey returned in !aste to Me**a# (!e out rea& of war made trou le in t!e $e>a+# (!e pilgrimage *eased, and wit! it t!e revenues and usiness of t!e $oly Cities# (!ere was reason to fear t!at t!e .ndian food-s!ips would *ease to *ome Bsin*e t!e S!erif e*ame te*!ni*ally an enemy su >e*tC) and as t!e provin*e produ*ed almost no food of its own, it would e pre*ariously dependent on t!e goodwill of t!e (ur&s, w!o mig!t starve it y *losing t!e $e>a+ "ailway# $ussein !ad never een entirely at t!e (ur&s? mer*y efore) and at t!is un!appy moment t!ey parti*ularly needed !is ad!eren*e to t!eir ?/e!ad?, t!e $oly 'ar of all Moslems against C!ristianity# (o e*ome popularly effe*tive t!is must e endorsed y Me**a) and if endorsed it mig!t plunge t!e 4ast in lood# $ussein was !onoura le, s!rewd, o stinate and deeply pious# $e felt t!at t!e $oly 'ar was do*trinally in*ompati le wit! an aggressive war, and a surd wit! a C!ristian ally- Germany# So !e refused t!e (ur&is! demand, and made at t!e same time a dignified appeal to t!e Allies not to starve !is provin*e for w!at was in no way !is people?s fault# (!e (ur&s in reply at on*e instituted a partial lo*&ade of t!e $e>a+ y *ontrolling t!e traffi* on t!e pilgrim railway# (!e %ritis! left !is *oast open to spe*ially-regulated food vessels# (!e (ur&is! demand was, !owever, not t!e only one w!i*! t!e S!erif re*eived# .n /anuary 1915, 1isin, !ead of t!e Mesopotamian offi*ers, Ali "i+a, !ead of t!e Damas*us offi*ers, and A d el G!ani el Areisi, for t!e Syrian *ivilians, sent down to !im a *on*rete proposal for a military mutiny in Syria against t!e (ur&s# (!e oppressed people of Mesopotamia and Syria, t!e *ommittees of t!e A!ad and t!e :eta!, were *alling out to !im as t!e :at!er of t!e Ara s, t!e Moslem of Moslems, t!eir greatest prin*e, t!eir oldest nota le, to save t!em from t!e sinister designs of (alaat and /emal# $ussein, as politi*ian, as prin*e, as moslem, as modernist, and as nationalist, was for*ed to listen to t!eir appeal# $e sent :eisal, !is t!ird son, to Damas*us, to dis*uss t!eir pro>e*ts as !is representative, and to ma&e a report# $e sent Ali, !is eldest son, to Medina, wit! orders to raise @uietly, on any e3*use !e pleased, troops from villagers and tri esmen of t!e $e>a+, and to !old t!em ready for a*tion if :eisal *alled# A dulla, !is politi* se*ond son, was to sound t!e %ritis! y letter, to learn w!at would e t!eir attitude towards a possi le Ara revolt against (ur&ey# :eisal reported in /anuary 1915, t!at lo*al *onditions were good, ut t!at t!e general war was not going well for t!eir !opes# .n Damas*us were t!ree divisions of Ara troops ready for re ellion# .n Aleppo two ot!er divisions, riddled wit! Ara nationalism, were sure to >oin in if t!e ot!ers egan# (!ere was only one (ur&is! division t!is side of t!e (aurus, so t!at it was *ertain t!at t!e re els would get possession of Syria at t!e first effort# 8n t!e ot!er !and, pu li* opinion was less ready for e3treme measures, and t!e military *lass @uite sure t!at Germany would win t!e war and win it soon# .f, !owever, t!e Allies landed t!eir Australian 43pedition Bpreparing in 4gyptC at Ale3andretta, and so *overed t!e Syrian flan&, t!en it would e wise and safe to ris& a final German vi*tory and t!e need to ma&e a previous separate pea*e wit! t!e (ur&s#

Feysal Delay followed, as t!e Allies went to t!e Dardanelles, and not to Ale3andretta# :eisal went after t!em to get first-!and &nowledge of Gallipoli *onditions, sin*e a rea&down of (ur&ey would e t!e Ara signal# (!en followed stagnation t!roug! t!e mont!s of t!e Dardanelles *ampaign# .n t!at slaug!ter!ouse t!e remaining 8ttoman first-line army was destroyed# (!e disaster to (ur&ey of t!e a**umulated losses was so great t!at :eisal *ame a*& to Syria, >udging it a possi le moment in w!i*! to stri&e, ut found t!at meanw!ile t!e lo*al situation !ad e*ome unfavoura le# $is Syrian supporters were under arrest or in !iding, and t!eir friends eing !anged in s*ores on politi*al *!arges# $e found t!e well-disposed Ara divisions eit!er e3iled to distant fronts, or ro&en up in drafts and distri uted among (ur&is! units# (!e Ara peasantry were in t!e grip of (ur&is! military servi*e, and Syria prostrate efore t!e mer*iless /emal ,as!a# $is assets !ad disappeared# $e wrote to !is fat!er *ounselling furt!er delay, till 4ngland s!ould e ready and (ur&ey in e3tremities# 9nfortunately, 4ngland was in a deplora le *ondition# $er for*es were falling a*& s!attered from t!e Dardanelles# (!e slow-drawn agony of ;ut was in its last stage) and t!e Senussi rising, *oin*ident wit! t!e entry of %ulgaria, t!reatened !er on new flan&s# :eisal?s position was !a+ardous in t!e e3treme# $e was at t!e mer*y of t!e mem ers of t!e se*ret so*iety, w!ose president !e !ad een efore t!e war# $e !ad to live as t!e guest of /emal ,as!a, in Damas*us, ru ing up !is military &nowledge) for !is rot!er Ali was raising t!e troops in $e>a+ on t!e prete3t t!at !e and :eisal would lead t!em against t!e Sue+ Canal to !elp t!e (ur&s# So :eisal, as a good 8ttoman and offi*er in t!e (ur&is! servi*e, !ad to live at !ead@uarters, and endure a*@uies*ingly t!e insults and indignities !eaped upon !is ra*e y t!e ully /emal in !is *ups# /emal would send for :eisal and ta&e !im to t!e !anging of !is Syrian friends# (!ese vi*tims of >usti*e dared not s!ow t!at t!ey &new :eisal?s real !opes, any more t!an !e dared s!ow !is mind y word or loo&, sin*e dis*losure would !ave *ondemned !is family and per!aps t!eir ra*e to t!e same fate# 8nly on*e did !e urst out t!at t!ese e3e*utions would *ost /emal all t!at !e was trying to avoid) and it too& t!e inter*essions of !is Constantinople friends, *!ief men in (ur&ey, to save !im from t!e pri*e of t!ese ras! words# :eisal?s *orresponden*e wit! !is fat!er was an adventure in itself# (!ey *ommuni*ated y means of old retainers of t!e family, men a ove suspi*ion, w!o went up and down t!e $e>a+ "ailway, *arrying letters in sword-!ilts, in *a&es, sewn etween t!e soles of sandals, or in invisi le writings on t!e wrappers of !armless pa*&ages# .n all of t!em :eisal reported unfavoura le t!ings, and egged !is

fat!er to postpone a*tion till a wiser time# $ussein, !owever, was not a w!it *ast down y 4mir :eisal?s dis*ouragements# (!e 1oung (ur&s in !is eyes were so many godless transgressors of t!eir *reed and t!eir !uman duty--traitors to t!e spirit of t!e time, and to t!e !ig!er interests of .slam# (!oug! an old man of si3ty-five, !e was *!eerfully determined to wage war against t!em, relying upon >usti*e to *over t!e *ost# $ussein trusted so mu*! in God t!at !e let !is military sense lie fallow, and t!oug!t $e>a+ a le to fig!t it out wit! (ur&ey on a fair field# So !e sent A d el ;ader el A du to :eisal wit! a letter t!at all was now ready for inspe*tion y !im in Medina efore t!e troops started for t!e front :eisal informed /emal, and as&ed leave to go down, ut, to !is dismay, /emal replied t!at 4nver ,as!a, t!e Generalissimo, was on !is way to t!e provin*e, and t!at t!ey would visit Medina toget!er and inspe*t t!em# :eisal !ad planned to raise !is fat!er?s *rimson anner as soon as !e arrived in Medina, and so to ta&e t!e (ur&s unawares) and !ere !e was going to e saddled wit! two uninvited guests to w!om, y t!e Ara law of !ospitality, !e *ould do no !arm, and w!o would pro a ly delay !is a*tion so long t!at t!e w!ole se*ret of t!e revolt would e in >eopardyA .n t!e end matters passed off well, t!oug! t!e irony of t!e review was terri le# 4nver, /emal and :eisal wat*!ed t!e troops w!eeling and turning in t!e dusty plain outside t!e *ity gate, rus!ing up and down in mimi* *amel- attle, or spurring t!eir !orses in t!e >avelin game after immemorial Ara fas!ion# ?And are all t!ese volunteers for t!e $oly 'arJ? as&ed 4nver at last, turning to :eisal# ?1es,? said :eisal# 'illing to fig!t to t!e deat! against t!e enemies of t!e fait!fulJ? 1es,? said :eisal again) and t!en t!e Ara *!iefs *ame up to e presented, and S!erif Ali i n el $ussein, of Mod!ig, drew !im aside w!ispering, ?My 2ord, s!all we &ill t!em nowJ? and :eisal said, ?0o, t!ey are our guests#? (!e s!ei&!s protested furt!er) for t!ey elieved t!at so t!ey *ould finis! off t!e war in two lows# (!ey were determined to for*e :eisal?s !and) and !e !ad to go among t!em, >ust out of ears!ot ut in full view, and plead for t!e lives of t!e (ur&is! di*tators, w!o !ad murdered !is est friends on t!e s*affold# .n t!e end !e !ad to ma&e e3*uses, ta&e t!e party a*& @ui*&ly to Medina, pi*&et t!e an@ueting !all wit! !is own slaves, and es*ort 4nver and /emal a*& to Damas*us to save t!em from deat! on t!e way# $e e3plained t!is la oured *ourtesy y t!e plea t!at it was t!e Ara manner to devote everyt!ing to guests) ut 4nver and /emal eing deeply suspi*ious of w!at t!ey !ad seen, imposed a stri*t lo*&ade of t!e $e>a+, and ordered large (ur&is! reinfor*ements t!it!er# (!ey wanted to detain :eisal in Damas*us) ut telegrams *ame from Medina *laiming !is immediate return to prevent disorder, and, relu*tantly, /emal let !im go on *ondition t!at !is suite remained e!ind as !ostages# :eisal found Medina full of (ur&is! troops, wit! t!e staff and !ead@uarters of t!e (welft! Army Corps under :a&!ri ,as!a, t!e *ourageous old ut*!er w!o !ad loodily ?purified? Geitun and 9rfa of Armenians# Clearly t!e (ur&s !ad ta&en warning, and :eisal?s !ope of a surprise rus!, winning su**ess almost wit!out a s!ot, !ad e*ome impossi le# $owever, it was too late for pruden*e# :rom Damas*us four days later !is suite too& !orse and rode out east into t!e desert to ta&e refuge wit! 0uri S!aalan, t!e %eduin *!ieftain) and t!e same day :eisal s!owed !is !and# '!en !e raised t!e Ara flag, t!e pan-.slami* supra-national State, for w!i*! A dul $amid !ad massa*red and wor&ed and died, and t!e German !ope of t!e *o-operation of .slam in t!e world-plans of t!e ;aiser, passed into t!e realm of dreams# %y t!e mere fa*t of !is re ellion t!e S!erif !ad *losed t!ese two fantasti* *!apters of !istory# "e ellion was t!e gravest step w!i*! politi*al men *ould ta&e, and t!e su**ess or failure of t!e Ara revolt was a gam le too !a+ardous for prop!e*y# 1et, for on*e, fortune favoured t!e old player, and t!e Ara epi* tossed up its stormy road from irt! t!roug! wea&ness, pain and dou t, to red vi*tory# .t was t!e >ust end to an adventure w!i*! !ad dared so mu*!, ut after t!e vi*tory t!ere *ame a slow time of disillusion, and t!en a nig!t in w!i*! t!e fig!ting men found t!at all t!eir !opes !ad failed t!em# 0ow, at last, may t!ere !ave *ome to t!em t!e w!ite pea*e of t!e end, in t!e &nowledge t!at t!ey a*!ieved a deat!less t!ing, a lu*ent inspiration to t!e *!ildren of t!eir ra*e#

&()PTE" +I
. !ad een many years going up and down t!e Semiti* 4ast efore t!e war, learning t!e manners of t!e villagers and tri esmen and *iti+ens of Syria and Mesopotamia# My poverty !ad *onstrained me to mi3 wit! t!e !um ler *lasses, t!ose seldom met y 4uropean travellers, and t!us my e3perien*es gave me an unusual angle of view, w!i*! ena led me to understand and t!in& for t!e ignorant many as well as for t!e more enlig!tened w!ose rare opinions mattered, not so mu*! for t!e day, as for t!e morrow# .n addition, . !ad seen somet!ing of t!e politi*al for*es wor&ing in t!e minds of t!e Middle 4ast, and espe*ially !ad noted everyw!ere sure signs of t!e de*ay of imperial (ur&ey# (ur&ey was dying of overstrain, of t!e attempt, wit! diminis!ed resour*es, to !old, on traditional terms, t!e w!ole 4mpire e@ueat!ed to it# (!e sword !ad een t!e virtue of t!e *!ildren of 8t!man, and swords !ad passed out of fas!ion nowadays, in favour of deadlier and more s*ientifi* weapons# 2ife was growing too *ompli*ated for t!is *!ild-li&e people, w!ose strengt! !ad lain in simpli*ity, and patien*e, and in t!eir *apa*ity for sa*rifi*e# (!ey were t!e slowest of t!e ra*es of 'estern Asia, little fitted to adapt t!emselves to new s*ien*es of government and life, still less to invent any new arts for t!emselves# (!eir administration !ad e*ome perfor*e an affair of files and telegrams, of !ig! finan*e, eugeni*s, *al*ulations# .nevita ly t!e old governors, w!o !ad governed y for*e of !and or for*e of *!ara*ter, illiterate, dire*t, personal, !ad to pass away# (!e rule was transferred to new men, wit! agility and suppleness to stoop to ma*!inery# (!e s!allow and !alf-polis!ed *ommittee of t!e 1oung (ur&s were des*endants of Gree&s, Al anians, Cir*assians, %ulgars, Armenians, /ews-anyt!ing ut Sel>u&s or 8ttomans# (!e *ommons *eased to feel in tune wit! t!eir governors, w!ose *ulture was 2evantine, and w!ose politi*al t!eory was :ren*!# (ur&ey was de*aying) and only t!e &nife mig!t &eep !ealt! in !er# 2oving t!e old ways steadily, t!e Anatolian remained a east of urden in !is village and an un*omplaining soldier a road, w!ile t!e su >e*t ra*es of t!e 4mpire, w!o formed nearly seven-tent!s of its total population, grew daily in strengt! and &nowledge) for t!eir la*& of tradition and responsi ility, as well as t!eir lig!ter and @ui*&er minds, disposed t!em to a**ept new ideas# (!e former natural awe and suprema*y of t!e (ur&is! name egan to fade in t!e fa*e of wider *omparison# (!is *!anging alan*e of (ur&ey and t!e su >e*t provin*es involved growing garrisons if t!e old ground was to e retained# (ripoli, Al ania, (!ra*e, 1emen, $e>a+, Syria, Mesopotamia, ;urdistan, Armenia, were all outgoing a**ounts, urdens on t!e peasants of Anatolia, yearly devouring a larger draft# (!e urden fell !eaviest on t!e poor villages, and ea*! year made t!ese poor villages yet more poor# (!e *ons*ripts too& t!eir fate un@uestioning- resignedly, after t!e *ustom of (ur&is! peasantry# (!ey were li&e s!eep, neutrals wit!out vi*e or virtue# 2eft alone, t!ey did not!ing, or per!aps sat dully on t!e ground# 8rdered to e &ind, and wit!out !aste t!ey were as good friends and as generous enemies as mig!t e found# 8rdered to outrage t!eir fat!ers or disem owel t!eir mot!ers, t!ey did it as *almly as t!ey did not!ing, or did well# (!ere was a out t!em a !opeless, fever-wasted la*& of initiative, w!i*! made t!em t!e most idda le, most enduring, and least spirited soldiers in t!e world# Su*! men were natural vi*tims of t!eir s!owy-vi*ious 2evantine offi*ers, to e driven to deat! or t!rown away y negle*t wit!out re*&oning# .ndeed, we found t!em >ust &ept *!opping- lo*&s of t!eir *ommanders? viler passions# So *!eap did t!ey rate t!em, t!at in *onne*tion wit! t!em t!ey used none of t!e ordinary pre*autions# Medi*al e3amination of some at*!es of (ur&is! prisoners found nearly !alf of t!em wit! unnaturally a*@uired venereal disease# ,o3 and its li&e were not understood in t!e *ountry) and t!e infe*tion ran from one to anot!er t!roug! t!e attalion, w!ere t!e *ons*ripts served for si3 or seven years, till at t!e end of t!eir period t!e survivors, if t!ey *ame from de*ent !omes, were as!amed to return, and drifted eit!er into t!e gendarmerie servi*e, or, as ro&en men, into *asual la our a out t!e towns) and so t!e irt!-rate fell# (!e (ur&is! peasantry in Anatolia were dying of t!eir military servi*e# 'e *ould see t!at a new fa*tor was needed in t!e 4ast, some power or ra*e w!i*! would outweig! t!e

(ur&s in num ers, in output, and in mental a*tivity# 0o en*ouragement was given us y !istory to t!in& t!at t!ese @ualities *ould e supplied ready-made from 4urope# (!e efforts of 4uropean ,owers to &eep a footing in t!e Asiati* 2evant !ad een uniformly disastrous, and we disli&ed no 'estern people enoug! to inveigle t!em into furt!er attempts# 8ur su**essor and solution must e lo*al) and fortunately t!e standard of effi*ien*y re@uired was lo*al also# (!e *ompetition would e wit! (ur&ey) and (ur&ey was rotten# Some of us >udged t!at t!ere was latent power enoug! and to spare in t!e Ara i* peoples Bt!e greatest *omponent of t!e old (ur&is! 4mpireC, a prolifi* Semiti* agglomeration, great in religious t!oug!t, reasona ly industrious, mer*antile, politi*, yet solvent rat!er t!an dominant in *!ara*ter# (!ey !ad served a term of five !undred years under t!e (ur&is! !arrow, and !ad egun to dream of li erty) so w!en at last 4ngland fell out wit! (ur&ey, and war was let loose in t!e 4ast and 'est at on*e, we w!o elieved we !eld an indi*ation of t!e future set out to end 4ngland?s efforts towards fostering t!e new Ara i* world in !it!er Asia# 'e were not many) and nearly all of us rallied round Clayton, t!e *!ief of .ntelligen*e, *ivil and military, in 4gypt# Clayton made t!e perfe*t leader for su*! a and of wild men as we were# $e was *alm, deta*!ed, *lear-sig!ted, of un*ons*ious *ourage in assuming responsi ility# $e gave an open run to !is su ordinates# $is own views were general, li&e !is &nowledge) and !e wor&ed y influen*e rat!er t!an y loud dire*tion# .t was not easy to des*ry !is influen*e# $e was li&e water, or permeating oil, *reeping silently and insistently t!roug! everyt!ing# .t was not possi le to say w!ere Clayton was and was not, and !ow mu*! really elonged to !im# $e never visi ly led) ut !is ideas were a reast of t!ose w!o did- !e impressed men y !is so riety, and y a *ertain @uiet and stately moderation of !ope# .n pra*ti*al matters !e was loose, irregular, untidy, a man wit! w!om independent men *ould ear# (!e first of us was "onald Storrs, 8riental Se*retary of t!e "esiden*y, t!e most rilliant 4nglis!man in t!e 0ear 4ast, and su tly effi*ient, despite !is diversion of energy in love of musi* and letters, of s*ulpture, painting, of w!atever was eautiful in t!e world?s fruit# 0one t!e less, Storrs sowed w!at we reaped, and was always first, and t!e great man among us# $is s!adow would !ave *overed our wor& and %ritis! poli*y in t!e 4ast li&e a *loa&, !ad !e een a le to deny !imself t!e world, and to prepare !is mind and ody wit! t!e sternness of an at!lete for a great fig!t# George 2loyd entered our num er# $e gave us *onfiden*e, and wit! !is &nowledge of money, proved a sure guide t!roug! t!e su ways of trade and politi*s, and a prop!et upon t!e future arteries of t!e Middle 4ast# 'e would not !ave done so mu*! so soon wit!out !is partners!ip) ut !e was a restless soul, avid rat!er to taste t!an to e3!aust# (o !im many t!ings were needful) and so !e would not stay very long wit! us# $e did not see !ow mu*! we li&ed !im# (!en t!ere was t!e imaginative advo*ate of un*onvin*ing world-movements, Mar& Sy&es- also a undle of pre>udi*es, intuitions, !alf-s*ien*es# $is ideas were of t!e outside) and !e la*&ed patien*e to test !is materials efore *!oosing !is style of uilding# $e would ta&e an aspe*t of t!e trut!, deta*! it from its *ir*umstan*es, inflate it, twist and model it, until its old li&eness and its new unli&eness toget!er drew a laug!) and laug!s were !is triump!s# $is instin*ts lay in parody- y *!oi*e !e was A *ari*aturist rat!er t!an an artist, even in statesmans!ip# $e saw t!e odd in everyt!ing, and missed t!e even# $e would s&et*! out in a few das!es a new world, all out of s*ale, ut vivid as a vision of some sides of t!e t!ing we !oped# $is !elp did us good and !arm# :or t!is !is last wee& in ,aris tried to atone# $e !ad returned from A period of politi*al duty in Syria, after !is awful reali+ation of t!e true s!ape of !is dreams, to say gallantly, . was wrong- !ere is t!e trut!?# $is former friends would not see !is new earnestness, and t!oug!t !im fi*&le and in error) and very soon !e died# .t was a tragedy of tragedies, for t!e Ara sa&e# 0ot a wild man, ut #entor to all of us was $ogart!, our fat!er *onfessor and adviser, w!o roug!t us t!e parallels and lessons of !istory, and moderation, and *ourage# (o t!e outsiders !e was pea*ema&er B. was all *laws and teet!, and !ad a devilC, and made us favoured and listened to, for !is weig!ty >udgement# $e !ad a deli*ate sense of value, and would present *learly to us t!e for*es

!idden e!ind t!e lousy rags and festering s&ins w!i*! we &new as Ara s# $ogart! was our referee, and our untiring !istorian, w!o gave us !is great &nowledge and *areful wisdom even in t!e smallest t!ings, e*ause !e elieved in w!at we were ma&ing# %e!ind !im stood Cornwallis, a man rude to loo& upon, ut apparently forged from one of t!ose in*redi le metals wit! a melting-point of t!ousands of degrees# So !e *ould remain for mont!s !otter t!an ot!er men?s w!ite-!eat, and yet loo& *old and !ard# %e!ind !im again were ot!ers, 0ew*om e, ,ar&er, $er ert, Graves, all of t!e *reed, and la ouring stoutly after t!eir fas!ion# 'e *alled ourselves ?.ntrusive? as a and) for we meant to rea& into t!e a**epted !alls of 4nglis! foreign poli*y, and uild a new people in t!e 4ast, despite t!e rails laid down for us y our an*estors# (!erefore from our !y rid intelligen*e offi*e in Cairo Ba >angling pla*e w!i*! for its in*essant ells and ustle and running to and fro, was li&ened y Au rey $er ert to an oriental railway stationC we egan to wor& upon all *!iefs, far and near# Sir $enry M*Ma!on, $ig! Commissioner in 4gypt, was, of *ourse, our first effort) and !is s!rewd insig!t and tried, e3perien*ed mind understood our design at on*e and >udged it good# 8t!ers, li&e 'emyss, 0eil Mal*olm, 'ingate, supported us in t!eir pleasure at seeing t!e war turned *onstru*tive# (!eir advo*a*y *onfirmed in 2ord ;it*!ener t!e favoura le impression !e !ad derived years efore w!en S!erif A dulla appealed to !im in 4gypt) and so M*Ma!on at last a*!ieved our foundation stone, t!e understanding wit! t!e S!erif of Me**a# %ut efore t!is we !ad !ad !opes of Mesopotamia# (!e eginning of t!e Ara .ndependen*e Movement !ad een t!ere, under t!e vigorous ut uns*rupulous impulse of Seyid (ale , and later of 1asin el $as!imi and t!e military league# A+i+ el Masri, 4nver?s rival, w!o was living, mu*! inde ted to us, in 4gypt, was an idol of t!e Ara offi*ers# $e was approa*!ed y 2ord ;it*!ener in t!e first days of t!e war, wit! t!e !ope of winning t!e (ur&is! Mesopotamian for*es to our side# 9nfortunately %ritain was ursting t!en wit! *onfiden*e in an easy and early vi*tory- t!e smas!ing of (ur&ey was *alled a promenade# So t!e .ndian Government was adverse to any pledges to t!e Ara nationalists w!i*! mig!t limit t!eir am itions to ma&e t!e intended Mesopotamian *olony play t!e self-sa*rifi*ing role of a %urma for t!e general good# .t ro&e off negotiations, re>e*ted A+i+, and interned Sayid (ale , w!o !ad pla*ed !imself in our !ands# %y rute for*e it mar*!ed t!en into %asra# (!e enemy troops in .ra& were nearly all Ara s in t!e unenvia le predi*ament of !aving to fig!t on e!alf of t!eir se*ular oppressors against a people long envisaged as li erators, ut w!o o stinately refused to play t!e part# As may e imagined, t!ey foug!t very adly# 8ur for*es won attle after attle till we *ame to t!in& an .ndian army etter t!an a (ur&is! army# (!ere followed our ras! advan*e to Ctesip!on, w!ere we met native (ur&is! troops w!ose full !eart was in t!e game, and were a ruptly *!e*&ed# 'e fell a*&, da+ed) and t!e long misery of ;ut egan# Meanw!ile, our Government !ad repented, and, for reasons not un*onne*ted wit! t!e fall of 4r+erum, sent me to Mesopotamia to see w!at *ould e done y indire*t means to relieve t!e eleaguered garrison# (!e lo*al %ritis! !ad t!e strongest o >e*tion to my *oming) and two Generals of t!em were good enoug! to e3plain to me t!at my mission Bw!i*! t!ey did not really &nowC was dis!onoura le to a soldier Bw!i*! . was notC# As a matter of fa*t it was too late for a*tion, wit! ;ut >ust dying) and in *onse@uen*e . did not!ing of w!at it was in my mind and power to do# (!e *onditions were ideal for an Ara movement# (!e people of 0e>ef and ;er ela, far in t!e rear of $alil ,as!a?s army, were in revolt against !im# (!e surviving Ara s in $ali?s army were, on !is own *onfession, openly disloyal to (ur&ey# (!e tri es of t!e $ai and 4up!rates would !ave turned our way !ad t!ey seen signs of gra*e in t!e %ritis!# $ad we pu lis!ed t!e promises made to t!e S!erif, or even t!e pro*lamation afterwards posted in *aptured %agdad, and followed it up, enoug! lo*al fig!ting men would !ave >oined us to !arry t!e (ur&is! line of *ommuni*ation etween %agdad and ;ut# A few wee&s of t!at, and t!e enemy would eit!er !ave een for*ed to raise t!e siege and retire, or !ave t!emselves suffered investment, outside ;ut, nearly as stringent as t!e investment of (owns!end wit!in it# (ime to develop su*! a s*!eme *ould easily !ave een gained# $ad t!e %ritis! !ead@uarters in Mesopotamia o tained from t!e 'ar 8ffi*e eig!t more aeroplanes to in*rease t!e daily *arriage of

food to t!e garrison of ;ut, (owns!end?s resistan*e mig!t !ave een indefinitely prolonged# $is defen*e was (ur&is!ly impregna le) and only lunders wit!in and wit!out for*ed surrender upon !im# $owever, as t!is was not t!e way of t!e dire*ting parties t!ere, . returned at on*e to 4gypt) and till t!e end of t!e war t!e %ritis! in Mesopotamia remained su stantially an alien for*e invading enemy territory, wit! t!e lo*al people passively neutral or sullenly against t!em, and in *onse@uen*e !ad not t!e freedom of movement and elasti*ity of Allen y in Syria, w!o entered t!e *ountry as a friend, wit! t!e lo*al people a*tively on !is side# (!e fa*tors of num ers, *limate and *ommuni*ations favoured us in Mesopotamia more t!an in Syria) and our !ig!er *ommand was, after t!e eginning, no less effi*ient and e3perien*ed# %ut t!eir *asualty lists *ompared wit! Allen y?s, t!eir wood-*!opping ta*ti*s *ompared wit! !is rapier-play, s!owed !ow formida ly an adverse politi*al situation was a le to *ramp a purely military operation#

&()PTE" +II
8ur *!e*& in Mesopotamia was a disappointment to us) ut M*Ma!on *ontinued !is negotiations wit! Me**a, and finally roug!t t!em to su**ess despite t!e eva*uation of Gallipoli, t!e surrender of ;ut, and t!e generally unfortunate aspe*t of t!e war at t!e moment# :ew people, even of t!ose w!o &new all t!e negotiations, !ad really elieved t!at t!e S!erif would fig!t) *onse@uently !is eventual re ellion and opening of !is *oast to our s!ips and !elp too& us and t!em y surprise# 'e found our diffi*ulties t!en only eginning# (!e *redit of t!e new fa*tor was to M*Ma!on and Clayton- professional >ealousies immediately raised t!eir !eads# Sir Ar*!i ald Murray, t!e General in 4gypt, wanted, naturally enoug!, no *ompetitors and no *ompeting *ampaigns in !is sp!ere# $e disli&ed t!e *ivil power, w!i*! !ad so long &ept t!e pea*e etween !imself and General Ma3well# $e *ould not e entrusted wit! t!e Ara ian affair) for neit!er !e nor !is staff !ad t!e et!nologi*al *ompeten*e needed to deal wit! so *urious a pro lem# 8n t!e ot!er !and, !e *ould ma&e t!e spe*ta*le of t!e $ig! Commission running a private war suffi*iently ridi*ulous# $is was a very nervous mind, fan*iful and essentially *ompetitive# $e found !elp in !is C!ief of Staff, General 2ynden %ell, a red soldier, wit! an instin*tive s!uddering away from politi*ians, and a *ons*ientiously assumed !eartiness# (wo of t!e General Staff offi*ers followed t!eir leaders full *ry) and so t!e unfortunate M*Ma!on found !imself deprived of Army !elp and redu*ed to waging !is war in Ara ia wit! t!e assistan*e of !is :oreign 8ffi*e Atta*!e?s# Some appeared to resent a war w!i*! allowed outsiders to t!rust into t!eir usiness# Also t!eir training in suppression, y w!i*! alone t!e daily trivialities of diploma*y were made to loo& li&e man?s wor&, !ad so sun& into t!em t!at w!en t!e more important t!ing arrived, t!ey made it trivial# (!eir fee leness of tone, and niggling dis!onesties to one anot!er, angered t!e military to disgust) and were ad for us, too, sin*e t!ey patently let down t!e $ig! Commissioner, w!ose oots t!e G--s were not good enoug! to *lean# 'ingate, w!o !ad *omplete *onfiden*e in !is own grasp of t!e situation in t!e Middle 4ast, foresaw *redit and great profit for t!e *ountry in t!e Ara development) ut as *riti*ism slowly eat up against M*Ma!on !e disso*iated !imself from !im, and 2ondon egan to !int t!at etter use mig!t e made y an e3perien*ed !and of so su tle and involved a s&ein# $owever it was, t!ings in t!e $e>a+ went from ad to worse# 0o proper liaison was provided for t!e Ara for*es in t!e field, no military information was given t!e S!erifs, no ta*ti*al advi*e or strategy was suggested, no attempt made to find out t!e lo*al *onditions and adapt e3isting Allied resour*es in material to suit t!eir needs# (!e :ren*! Military Mission Bw!i*! Clayton?s pruden*e !ad suggested e sent to $e>a+ to soot!e our very suspi*ious allies y ta&ing t!em e!ind t!e s*enes and giving t!em a purpose t!ereC, was permitted to *arry on an ela orate intrigue against S!erif $ussein in !is towns of /idda and Me**a, and to propose to !im and to t!e %ritis! aut!orities measures t!at must !ave ruined

!is *ause in t!e eyes of all Moslems# 'ingate, now in military *ontrol of our *ooperation wit! t!e S!erif, was indu*ed to land some foreign troops at "a eg!, !alf-way etween Medina and Me**a, for t!e defen*e of Me**a and to !old up t!e furt!er advan*e of t!e reinvigorated (ur&s from Medina# M*Ma!on, in t!e multitude of *ounsellors, e*ame *onfused, and gave a !andle to Murray to *ry out against !is in*onsisten*ies# (!e Ara "evolt e*ame dis*redited) and Staff 8ffi*ers in 4gypt gleefully prop!esied to us its near failure and t!e stret*!ing of S!erif $ussein?s ne*& on a (ur&is! s*affold# My private position was not easy# As Staff Captain under Clayton in Sir Ar*!i ald Murray?s .ntelligen*e Se*tion, . was *!arged wit! t!e ?distri ution? of t!e (ur&is! Army and t!e preparation of maps# %y natural in*lination . !ad added to t!em t!e invention of t!e Ara %ulletin, a se*ret wee&ly re*ord of Middle-4astern politi*s) and of ne*essity Clayton *ame more and more to need me in t!e military wing of t!e Ara %ureau, t!e tiny intelligen*e and war staff for foreign affairs, w!i*! !e was now organi+ing for M*Ma!on# 4ventually Clayton was driven out of t!e General Staff) and Colonel $oldi*!, Murray?s intelligen*e offi*er at .smailia, too& !is pla*e in *ommand of us# $is first intention was to retain my servi*es) and, sin*e !e *learly did not need me, . interpreted t!is, not wit!out some friendly eviden*e, as a met!od of &eeping me away from t!e Ara affair# . de*ided t!at . must es*ape at on*e, if ever# A straig!t re@uest was refused) so . too& to stratagems# . e*ame, on t!e telep!one BG#$#H# were at .smailia, and . in CairoC @uite intolera le to t!e Staff on t!e Canal# . too& every opportunity to ru into t!em t!eir *omparative ignoran*e and ineffi*ien*y in t!e department of intelligen*e Bnot diffi*ultAC and irritated t!em yet furt!er y literary airs, *orre*ting S!avian split infinitives and tautologies in t!eir reports# .n a few days t!ey were u ling over on my a**ount, and at last determined to endure me no longer# . too& t!is strategi* opportunity to as& for ten days? leave, saying t!at Storrs was going down to /idda on usiness wit! t!e Grand S!erif, and t!at . would li&e a !oliday and >oyride in t!e "ed Sea wit! !im# (!ey did not love Storrs, and were glad to get rid of me for t!e moment# So t!ey agreed at on*e, and egan to prepare against my return some offi*ial s!elf for me# 0eedless to say, . !ad no intention of giving t!em su*! a *!an*e) for, w!ile very ready to !ire my ody out on petty servi*e, . !esitated to t!row my mind frivolously away# So . went to Clayton and *onfessed my affairs) and !e arranged for t!e "esiden*y to ma&e telegrap!i* appli*ation to t!e :oreign 8ffi*e for my transfer to t!e Ara %ureau# (!e :oreign 8ffi*e would treat dire*tly wit! t!e 'ar 8ffi*e) and t!e 4gypt *ommand would not !ear of it, till all was ended# Storrs and . t!en mar*!ed off toget!er, !appily# .n t!e 4ast t!ey swore t!at y t!ree sides was t!e de*ent way a*ross a s@uare) and my tri*& to es*ape was in t!is sense oriental# %ut . >ustified myself y my *onfiden*e in t!e final su**ess of t!e Ara "evolt if properly advised# . !ad een a mover in its eginning) my !opes lay in it# (!e fatalisti* su ordination of a professional soldier Bintrigue eing un&nown in t!e %ritis! armyC would !ave made a proper offi*er sit down and wat*! !is plan of *ampaign wre*&ed y men w!o t!oug!t not!ing of it, and to w!ose spirit it made no appeal# )on nobis, domine#

,##- #!E. The $iscovery of *eisal &()PTE"S +III T# .+I

$ had believed these misfortunes of the revolt to be due mainly to faulty leadership, or rather to the lack of leadership, Arab and English. So $ went down to Arabia to see and consider its great men. The first, the Sherif of #ecca, we knew to be aged. $ found Abdulla too clever, Ali too clean, *eid too cool. Then $ rode up country to +eisal, and found in him the leader with the necessary fire, and

yet with reason to give effect to our science. ,is tribesmen seemed sufficient instrument, and his hills to provide natural advantage. So $ returned pleased and confident to Egypt, and told my chiefs how #ecca was defended not by the obstacle of -abegh, but by the flank threat of +eisal in .ebel Subh.

Map

&()PTE" +III
'aiting off Sue+ was t!e /ama, a small *onverted liner) and in !er we left immediately# Su*! s!ort voyages on wars!ips were deli*ious interludes for us passengers# 8n t!is o**asion, !owever, t!ere was some em arrassment# 8ur mi3ed party seemed to distur t!e s!ip?s *ompany in t!eir own element# (!e >uniors !ad turned out of t!eir ert!s to give us nig!t spa*e, and y day we filled t!eir living rooms wit! irregular tal&# Storrs? intolerant rain seldom stooped to *ompany# %ut to-day !e was more a rupt t!an usual# $e turned twi*e around t!e de*&s, sniffed, ?0o one wort! tal&ing to?, and

sat down in one of t!e two *omforta le arm*!airs, to egin a dis*ussion of De ussy wit! A+i+ el Masri Bin t!e ot!erC# A+i+, t!e Ara -Cir*assian e3-*olonel in t!e (ur&is! Army, now general in t!e S!erifian Army, was on !is way to dis*uss wit! t!e 4mir of Me**a t!e e@uipment and standing of t!e Ara regulars !e was forming at "a eg!# A few minutes later t!ey !ad left De ussy, and were depre*iating 'agner- A+i+ in fluent German, and Storrs in German, :ren*! and Ara i*# (!e s!ip?s offi*ers found t!e w!ole *onversation unne*essary# 'e !ad t!e a**ustomed *alm run to /idda, in t!e delig!tful "ed Sea *limate, never too !ot w!ile t!e s!ip was moving# %y day we lay in s!adow) and for great part of t!e glorious nig!ts we would tramp up and down t!e wet de*&s under t!e stars in t!e steaming reat! of t!e sout!ern wind# %ut w!en at last we an*!ored in t!e outer !ar our, off t!e w!ite town !ung etween t!e la+ing s&y and its refle*tion in t!e mirage w!i*! swept and rolled over t!e wide lagoon, t!en t!e !eat of Ara ia *ame out li&e a drawn sword and stru*& us spee*!less# .t was midday) and t!e noon sun in t!e 4ast, li&e moonlig!t, put to sleep t!e *olours# (!ere were only lig!ts and s!adows, t!e w!ite !ouses and la*& gaps of streets- in front, t!e pallid lustre of t!e !a+e s!immering upon t!e inner !ar our- e!ind, t!e da++le of league after league of featureless sand, running up to an edge of low !ills, faintly suggested in t!e far away mist of !eat# /ust nort! of /idda was a se*ond group of la*&-w!ite uildings, moving up and down li&e pistons in t!e mirage, as t!e s!ip rolled at an*!or and t!e intermittent wind s!ifted t!e !eat waves in t!e air# .t loo&ed and felt !orri le# 'e egan to regret t!at t!e ina**essi ility w!i*! made t!e $e>a+ militarily a safe t!eatre of revolt involved ad *limate and un-w!olesomeness# $owever, Colonel 'ilson, %ritis! representative wit! t!e new Ara state, !ad sent !is laun*! to meet us) and we !ad to go as!ore to learn t!e reality of t!e men levitating in t!at mirage# $alf an !our later "u!i, Consular 8riental assistant, was grinning a delig!ted wel*ome to !is old patron Storrs B"u!i t!e ingenious, more li&e a mandra&e t!an a manC, w!ile t!e newly-appointed Syrian poli*e and !ar our offi*ers, wit! a s*rat*! guard of !onour, lined t!e Customs '!arf in salutation of A+i+ el Masri# S!erif A dulla, t!e se*ond son of t!e old man of Me**a, was reported >ust arriving in t!e town# $e it was we !ad to meet) so our *oming was auspi*iously timed# 'e wal&ed past t!e w!ite masonry of t!e still- uilding water gate, and t!roug! t!e oppressive alley of t!e food mar&et on our way to t!e Consulate# .n t!e air, from t!e men to t!e dates and a*& to t!e meat, s@uadrons of flies li&e parti*les of dust dan*ed up and down t!e suns!afts w!i*! sta ed into t!e dar&est *orners of t!e oot!s t!roug! torn pla*es in t!e wood and sa*&*lot! awnings over!ead# (!e atmosp!ere was li&e a at!# (!e s*arlet leat!ers of t!e arm*!air on t!e /ama0s de*& !ad dyed Storrs? w!ite tuni* and trousers as rig!t as t!emselves in t!eir damp *onta*t of t!e last four days, and now t!e sweat running in !is *lot!es egan to s!ine li&e varnis! t!roug! t!e stain# . was so fas*inated wat*!ing !im t!at . never noti*ed t!e deepened rown of my &!a&i drill w!erever it tou*!ed my ody# $e was wondering if t!e wal& to t!e Consulate was long enoug! to wet me a de*ent, solid, !armonious *olour) and . was wondering if all !e ever sat on would grow s*arlet as !imself# 'e rea*!ed t!e Consulate too soon for eit!er !ope) and t!ere in a s!aded room wit! an open latti*e e!ind !im sat 'ilson, prepared to wel*ome t!e sea ree+e, w!i*! !ad lagged t!ese last few days# $e re*eived us stiffly, eing of t!e !onest, downrig!t 4nglis!men, to w!om Storrs was suspe*t, if only for !is artisti* sense- w!ile !is *onta*t wit! me in Cairo !ad een a s!ort differen*e of opinion as to w!et!er native *lot!es were an indignity for us# . !ad *alled t!em un*omforta le merely# (o !im t!ey were wrong# 'ilson, !owever, despite !is personal feelings, was all for t!e game# $e !ad made preparations for t!e *oming interview wit! A dulla, and was ready to afford every !elp !e *ould# %esides, we were !is guests) and t!e splendid !ospitality of t!e 4ast was near !is spirit# A dulla, on a w!ite mare, *ame to us softly wit! a evy of ri*!ly-armed slaves on foot a out !im, t!roug! t!e silent respe*tful salutes of t!e town# $e was flus!ed wit! !is su**ess at (aif, and !appy# . was seeing !im for t!e first time, w!ile Storrs was an old friend, and on t!e est of terms) yet, efore long, as t!ey spo&e toget!er, . egan to suspe*t !im of a *onstant *!eerfulness# $is eyes !ad a *onfirmed twin&le) and t!oug! only t!irty-five, !e was putting on fles!# .t mig!t e due to too mu*!

laug!ter# 2ife seemed very merry for A dulla# $e was s!ort, strong, fair-s&inned, wit! a *arefully trimmed rown eard, mas&ing !is round smoot! fa*e and s!ort lips# .n manner !e was open, or affe*ted openness, and was *!arming on a*@uaintan*e# $e stood not on *eremony, ut >ested wit! all *omers in most easy fas!ion- yet, w!en we fell into serious tal&, t!e veil of !umour seemed to fade away# $e t!en *!ose !is words, and argued s!rewdly# 8f *ourse, !e was in dis*ussion wit! Storrs, w!o demanded a !ig! standard from !is opponent# (!e Ara s t!oug!t A dulla a far-seeing statesman and an astute politi*ian# Astute !e *ertainly was, ut not greatly enoug! to *onvin*e us always of !is sin*erity# $is am ition was patent# "umour made !im t!e rain of !is fat!er and of t!e Ara revolt) ut !e seemed too easy for t!at# $is o >e*t was, of *ourse, t!e winning of Ara independen*e and t!e uilding up of Ara nations, ut !e meant to &eep t!e dire*tion of t!e new states in t!e family# So !e wat*!ed us, and played t!roug! us to t!e %ritis! gallery# 8n our part, . was playing for effe*t, wat*!ing, *riti*i+ing !im# (!e S!erifs re ellion !ad een unsatisfa*tory for t!e last few mont!s Bstanding still, w!i*!, wit! an irregular war, was t!e prelude to disasterC, and my suspi*ion was t!at its la*& was leaders!ip- not intelle*t, nor >udgement, nor politi*al wisdom, ut t!e flame of ent!usiasm t!at would set t!e desert on fire# My visit was mainly to find t!e yet un&nown master-spirit of t!e affair, and measure !is *apa*ity to *arry t!e revolt to t!e goal . !ad *on*eived for it# As our *onversation *ontinued, . e*ame more and more sure t!at A dulla was too alan*ed, too *ool, too !umorous to e a prop!et- espe*ially t!e armed prop!et w!o, if !istory e true, su**eeded in revolutions# $is value would *ome per!aps in t!e pea*e after su**ess# During t!e p!ysi*al struggle, w!en singleness of eye and magnetism, devotion and self-sa*rifi*e were needed, A dulla would e a tool too *omple3 for a simple purpose, t!oug! !e *ould not e ignored, even now# 'e tal&ed to !im first a out t!e state of /idda, to put !im at ease y dis*ussing at t!is first of our interviews t!e unne*essary su >e*t of t!e S!erif?s administration# $e replied t!at t!e war was yet too mu*! wit! t!em for *ivil government# (!ey !ad in!erited t!e (ur&is! system in t!e towns, and were *ontinuing it on a more modest s*ale# (!e (ur&is! Government was often not un&ind to strong men, w!o o tained *onsidera le li*en*e on terms# Conse@uently, some of t!e li*ensees in $e>a+ regretted t!e *oming of a native ruler# ,arti*ularly in Me**a and /idda pu li* opinion was against an Ara state# (!e mass of *iti+ens were foreigners--4gyptians, .ndians, /avanese, Afri*ans, and ot!ers--@uite una le to sympat!i+e wit! t!e Ara aspirations, espe*ially as voi*ed y %eduin) for t!e %eduin lived on w!at !e *ould e3a*t from t!e stranger on !is roads, or in !is valleys) and !e and t!e townsman ore ea*! ot!er a perpetual grudge# (!e %eduins were t!e only fig!ting men t!e S!erif !ad got) and on t!eir !elp t!e revolt depended# $e was arming t!em freely, paying many of t!em for t!eir servi*e in !is for*es, feeding t!eir families w!ile t!ey were from !ome, and !iring from t!em t!eir transport *amels to maintain !is armies in t!e field# A**ordingly, t!e *ountry was prosperous, w!ile t!e towns went s!ort# Anot!er grievan*e in t!e towns was in t!e matter of law# (!e (ur&is! *ivil *ode !ad een a olis!ed, and a return made to t!e old religious law, t!e undiluted ;orani* pro*edure of t!e Ara ;adi# A dulla e3plained to us, wit! a giggle, t!at w!en t!ere was time t!ey would dis*over in t!e ;oran su*! opinions and >udgements as were re@uired to ma&e it suita le for modern *ommer*ial operations, li&e an&ing and e3*!ange# Meanw!ile, of *ourse, w!at townsmen lost y t!e a olition of t!e *ivil law, t!e %eduins gained# S!erif $ussein !ad silently san*tioned t!e restoration of t!e old tri al order# %eduins at odds wit! one anot!er pleaded t!eir own *ases efore t!e tri al lawman, an offi*e !ereditary in one most-respe*ted family, and re*ogni+ed y t!e payment of a goat per !ouse!old as yearly due# /udgement was ased on *ustom, y @uoting from a great ody of remem ered pre*edent# .t was delivered pu li*ly wit!out fee# .n *ases etween men of different tri es, t!e lawman was sele*ted y mutual *onsent, or re*ourse was !ad to t!e lawman of a t!ird tri e# .f t!e *ase were *ontentious and diffi*ult, t!e >udge was supported y a >ury of four--two nominated y plaintiff from t!e ran&s of defendant?s family, and two y defendant from plaintiff?s family# De*isions were always unanimous#

'e *ontemplated t!e vision A dulla drew for us, wit! sad t!oug!ts of t!e Garden of 4den and all t!at 4ve, now lying in !er tom >ust outside t!e wall, !ad lost for average !umanity) and t!en Storrs roug!t me into t!e dis*ussion y as&ing A dulla to give us !is views on t!e state of t!e *ampaign for my enefit, and for *ommuni*ation to !ead@uarters in 4gypt# A dulla at on*e grew serious, and said t!at !e wanted to urge upon t!e %ritis! t!eir immediate and very personal *on*ern in t!e matter, w!i*! !e ta ulated so--%y our negle*t to *ut t!e $e>a+ "ailway, t!e (ur&s !ad een a le to *olle*t transport and supplies for t!e reinfor*ement of Medina# :eisal !ad een driven a*& from t!e town) and t!e enemy was preparing a mo ile *olumn of all arms for an advan*e on "a eg!# (!e Ara s in t!e !ills a*ross t!eir road were y our negle*t too wea& in supplies, ma*!ine guns and artillery to defend t!em long# $ussein Ma eirig, *!ief of t!e Masru! $ar , !ad >oined t!e (ur&s# .f t!e Medina *olumn advan*ed, t!e $ar would >oin it# .t would only remain for !is fat!er to put !imself at t!e !ead of !is own people of Me**a, and to die fig!ting efore t!e $oly City# At t!is moment t!e telep!one rang- t!e Grand S!erif wanted to spea& to A dulla# $e was told of t!e point our *onversation !ad rea*!ed, and at on*e *onfirmed t!at !e would so a*t in t!e e3tremity# (!e (ur&s would enter Me**a over !is dead ody# (!e telep!one rang off) and A dulla, smiling a little, as&ed, to prevent su*! a disaster, t!at a %ritis! rigade, if possi le of Moslem troops, e &ept at Sue+, wit! transport to rus! it to "a eg! as soon as t!e (ur&s de ou*!ed from Medina in t!eir atta*&# '!at did we t!in& of t!e proposalJ . replied) first, !istori*ally, t!at S!erif $ussein !ad as&ed us not to *ut t!e $e>a+ line, sin*e !e would need it for !is vi*torious advan*e into Syria) se*ond, pra*ti*ally, t!at t!e dynamite we sent down for demolitions !ad een returned y !im wit! a note t!at it was too dangerous for Ara use) t!ird, spe*ifi*ally, t!at we !ad !ad no demands for e@uipment from :eisal# 'it! regard to t!e rigade for "a eg!, it was a *ompli*ated @uestion# S!ipping was pre*ious) and we *ould not !old empty transports indefinitely at Sue+# 'e !ad no Moslem units in our Army# A %ritis! rigade was a *um ersome affair, and would ta&e long to em ar& and disem ar&# (!e "a eg! position was large# A rigade would !ardly !old it and would e @uite una le to deta*! a for*e to prevent a (ur&is! *olumn slipping past it inland# (!e most t!ey *ould do would e to defend t!e ea*!, under a s!ip?s guns and t!e s!ip *ould do t!at as well wit!out t!e troops# A dulla replied t!at s!ips were insuffi*ient morally, as t!e Dardanelles fig!ting !ad destroyed t!e old legend of t!e %ritis! 0avy and its omnipoten*e# 0o (ur&s *ould slip past "a eg!) for it was t!e only water supply in t!e distri*t, and t!ey must water at its wells# (!e earmar&ing of a rigade and transports need e only temporary) for !e was ta&ing !is vi*torious (aif troops up t!e eastern road from Me**a to Medina# As soon as !e was in position, !e would give orders to A!? and :eisal, w!o would *lose in from t!e sout! and west, and t!eir *om ined for*es would deliver a grand atta*&, in w!i*! Medina would, please God, e ta&en# Meanw!ile, A+i+ el Masri was moulding t!e volunteers from Mesopotamia and Syria into attalions at "a eg!# '!en we !ad added t!e Ara prisoners of war from .ndia and 4gypt, t!ere would e enoug! to ta&e over t!e duties momentarily allotted to t!e %ritis! rigade# . said t!at . would represent !is views to 4gypt, ut t!at t!e %ritis! were relu*tant to spare troops from t!e vital defen*e of 4gypt Bt!oug! !e was not to imagine t!at t!e Canal was in any danger from t!e (ur&sC and, still more, to send C!ristians to defend t!e people of t!e $oly City against t!eir enemies) as some Moslems in .ndia, w!o *onsidered t!e (ur&is! Government !ad an impres*ripta le rig!t to t!e $aramein, would misrepresent our motives and a*tion# . t!oug!t t!at . mig!t per!aps urge !is opinions more powerfully if . was a le to report on t!e "a eg! @uestion in t!e lig!t of my own

&nowledge of t!e position and lo*al feeling# . would also li&e to see :eisal, and tal& over wit! !im !is needs and t!e prospe*ts of a prolonged defen*e of !is !ills y t!e tri esmen if we strengt!ened t!em materially# . would li&e to ride from "a eg! up t!e Sultani road towards Medina as far as :eisal?s *amp# Storrs t!en *ame in and supported me wit! all !is mig!t, urging t!e vital importan*e of full and early information from a trained o server for t!e %ritis! Commander-in-C!ief in 4gypt, and s!owing t!at !is sending down me, !is est @ualified and most indispensa le staff offi*er, proved t!e serious *onsideration eing given to Ara ian affairs y Sir Ar*!i ald Murray# A dulla went to t!e telep!one and tried to get !is fat!er?s *onsent to my going up *ountry# (!e S!erif viewed t!e proposal wit! grave distrust# A dulla argued t!e point, made some advantage, and transferred t!e mout!pie*e to Storrs, w!o turned all !is diploma*y on t!e old man# Storrs in full last was a delig!t to listen to in t!e mere matter of Ara i* spee*!, and also a lesson to every 4nglis!man alive of !ow to deal wit! suspi*ious or unwilling 8rientals# .t was nearly impossi le to resist !im for more t!an a few minutes, and in t!is *ase also !e !ad !is way# (!e S!erif as&ed again for A dulla, and aut!ori+ed !im to write to Ali, and suggest t!at if !e t!oug!t fit, and if *onditions were normal, . mig!t e allowed to pro*eed to :eisal in /e el Su !) and A dulla, under Storrs? influen*e, transformed t!is guarded message into dire*t written instru*tions to Ali to mount me as well and as @ui*&ly as possi le, and *onvey me, y sure !and, to :eisal?s *amp# (!is eing all . wanted, and !alf w!at Storrs wanted, we ad>ourned for lun*!#

&()PTE" I.
/edda! !ad pleased us, on our way to t!e Consulate- so after lun*!, w!en it was a little *ooler, or at least w!en t!e sun was not so !ig!, we wandered out to see t!e sig!ts under t!e guidan*e of 1oung, 'ilson?s assistant, a man w!o found good in many old t!ings, ut little good in t!ings now eing made# .t was indeed a remar&a le town# (!e streets were alleys, wood roofed in t!e main a+aar, ut elsew!ere open to t!e s&y in t!e little gap etween t!e tops of t!e lofty w!ite-walled !ouses# (!ese were uilt four or five stories !ig!, of *oral rag tied wit! s@uare eams and de*orated y wide owwindows running from ground to roof in grey wooden panels# (!ere was no glass in /idda, ut a profusion of good latti*es, and some very deli*ate s!allow *!iselling on t!e panels of window *asings# (!e doors were !eavy two-leaved sla s of tea&-wood, deeply *arved, often wit! wi*&ets in t!em) and t!ey !ad ri*! !inges and ring-&no*&ers of !ammered iron# (!ere was mu*! moulded or *ut plastering, and on t!e older !ouses fine stone !eads and >am s to t!e windows loo&ing on t!e inner *ourts# (!e style of ar*!ite*ture was li&e *ra+y 4li+a et!an !alf-tim er wor&, in t!e ela orate C!es!ire fas!ion, ut gone gim*ra*& to an in*redi le degree# $ouse-fronts were fretted, pier*ed and pargetted till t!ey loo&ed as t!oug! *ut out of *ard oard for a romanti* stage-setting# 4very storey >utted, every window leaned one way or ot!er) often t!e very walls sloped# .t was li&e a dead *ity, so *lean underfoot, and so @uiet# .ts winding, even streets were floored wit! damp sand solidified y time and as silent to t!e tread as any *arpet# (!e latti*es and wall-returns deadened all rever eration of voi*e# (!ere were no *arts, nor any streets wide enoug! for *arts, no s!od animals, no ustle anyw!ere# 4veryt!ing was !us!ed, strained, even furtive# (!e doors of !ouses s!ut softly as we passed# (!ere were no loud dogs, no *rying *!ildren- indeed, e3*ept in t!e a+aar, still !alf asleep, t!ere were few wayfarers of any &ind) and t!e rare people we did meet, all t!in, and as it were wasted y disease, wit! s*arred, !airless fa*es and s*rewed-up eyes, slipped past us @ui*&ly and *autiously, not loo&ing at us# (!eir s&imp, w!ite ro es, s!aven polls wit! little s&ull-*aps, red *otton s!oulder-s!awls, and are feet were so same as to e almost a uniform# (!e atmosp!ere was oppressive, deadly# (!ere seemed no life in it# .t was not urning !ot, ut !eld a moisture and sense of great age and e3!austion su*! as seemed to elong to no ot!er pla*e- not a passion of smells li&e Smyrna, 0aples or Marseilles, ut a feeling of long use, of t!e e3!alations of many people, of *ontinued at!-!eat and sweat# 8ne would say t!at for years /idda !ad not een

swept t!roug! y a firm ree+e- t!at its streets &ept t!eir air from year?s end to year?s end, from t!e day t!ey were uilt for so long as t!e !ouses s!ould endure# (!ere was not!ing in t!e a+aars to uy#

Map ! .n t!e evening t!e telep!one rang) and t!e S!erif *alled Storrs to t!e instrument# $e as&ed if we would not li&e to listen to !is and# Storrs, in astonis!ment, as&ed '!at andJ and *ongratulated !is !oliness on !aving advan*ed so far towards ur anity# (!e S!erif e3plained t!at t!e !ead@uarters oft!e $e>a+ Command under t!e (ur&s !ad !ad a rass and, w!i*! played ea*! nig!t to t!e Governor General) and w!en t!e Governor General was *aptured y A dulla at (aif !is and was *aptured wit! !im# (!e ot!er prisoners were sent to 4gypt for internment) ut t!e and was e3*epted# .t was !eld in Me**a to give musi* to t!e vi*tors# S!erif $ussein laid !is re*eiver on t!e ta le of !is re*eption !all, and we, *alled solemnly one y one to t!e telep!one, !eard t!e and in t!e ,ala*e at Me**a forty-five miles away# Storrs e3pressed t!e general gratifi*ation) and t!e S!erif, in*reasing !is ounty replied t!at t!e and s!ould e sent down y for*ed mar*! to /idda, to play in our *ourtyard also, ?And,? said !e, ?you may t!en do me t!e pleasure of ringing me up from your end, t!at . may s!are your

satisfa*tion#? 0e3t day Storrs visited A dulla in !is tent out y 4ve?s (om ) and toget!er t!ey inspe*ted t!e !ospital, t!e arra*&s, t!e town offi*es, and partoo& of t!e !ospitality of t!e Mayor and t!e Governor# .n t!e intervals of duty t!ey tal&ed a out money, and t!e S!erif s tide, and !is relations wit! t!e ot!er ,rin*es of Ara ia, and t!e general *ourse of t!e war- all t!e *ommonpla*es t!at s!ould pass etween envoys of two Governments# .t was tedious, and for t!e most part . !eld myself e3*used, as after a *onversation in t!e morning . !ad made up my mind t!at A dulla was not t!e ne*essary leader# 'e !ad as&ed !im to s&et*! t!e genesis of t!e Ara movement- and !is reply illuminated !is *!ara*ter# $e !ad egun y a long des*ription of (alaat, t!e first (ur& to spea& to !im wit! *on*ern of t!e restlessness of $e>a+# $e wanted it properly su dued, and military servi*e, as elsew!ere in t!e 4mpire, introdu*ed# A dulla, to forestall !im, !ad made a plan of pea*eful insurre*tion for $e>a+, and, after sounding ;it*!ener wit!out profit, !ad dated it provisionally for 1915# $e !ad meant to *all out t!e tri es during t!e feast, and lay !old of t!e pilgrims# (!ey would !ave in*luded many of t!e *!ief men of (ur&ey esides leading Moslems of 4gypt, .ndia, /ava, 4ritrea, and Algiers# 'it! t!ese t!ousands of !ostages in !is !ands !e !ad e3pe*ted to win t!e noti*e of t!e Great ,owers *on*erned# $e t!oug!t t!ey would ring pressure on t!e ,orte to se*ure t!e release of t!eir nationals# (!e ,orte, powerless to deal wit! $e>a+ militarily, would eit!er !ave made *on*essions to t!e S!erif or !ave *onfessed its powerlessness to t!e foreign States# .n t!e latter event, A dulla would !ave approa*!ed t!em dire*t, ready to meet t!eir demands in return for a guarantee of immunity from (ur&ey# . did not li&e !is s*!eme, and was glad w!en !e said wit! almost a sneer t!at :eisal in fear !ad egged !is fat!er not to follow it# (!is sounded good for :eisal, towards w!om my !opes of a great leader were now slowly turning# .n t!e evening A dulla *ame to dine wit! Colonel 'ilson# 'e re*eived !im in t!e *ourtyard on t!e !ouse steps# %e!ind !im were !is rilliant !ouse!old servants and slaves, and e!ind t!em a pale *rew of earded, ema*iated men wit! woe- egone fa*es, wearing tatters of military uniform, and *arrying tarnis!ed rass instruments of musi*# A dulla waved !is !and towards t!em and *rowed wit! delig!t, ?My %and?# 'e sat t!em on en*!es in t!e fore*ourt, and 'ilson sent t!em *igarettes, w!ile we went up to t!e dining room, w!ere t!e s!uttered al*ony was opened rig!t out, !ungrily, for a sea ree+e# As we sat down, t!e and, under t!e guns and swords of A dulla?s retainers, egan, ea*! instrument apart, to play !eart ro&en (ur&is! airs# 8ur ears a*!ed wit! noise) ut A dulla eamed# Curious t!e party was# A dulla !imself, <i*e-,resident in partibus of t!e (ur&is! C!am er and now :oreign Minister of t!e re el Ara State) 'ilson, Governor of t!e "ed Sea ,rovin*e of t!e Sudan, and $is Ma>esty?s Minister wit! t!e S!erif of Me**a) Storrs, 8riental Se*retary su**essively to Gorst, ;it*!ener and M*Ma!on in Cairo) 1oung, Co*!rane, and myself, !angers-on of t!e staff) Sayed Ali, a general in t!e 4gyptian Army, *ommander of t!e deta*!ment sent over y t!e Sirdar to !elp t!e first efforts of t!e Ara s) A+i+ el Masri, now C!ief of Staff of t!e Ara regular army, ut in old days 4nver?s rival, leader of t!e (ur&is! and Senussi for*es against t!e .talians, *!ief *onspirator of t!e Ara offi*ers in t!e (ur&is! army against t!e Committee of 9nion and ,rogress, a man *ondemned to deat! y t!e (ur&s for o eying t!e (reaty of 2ausanne, and saved y The Times and 2ord ;it*!ener# 'e got tired of (ur&is! musi*, and as&ed for German# A+i+ stepped out on t!e al*ony and *alled down to t!e andsmen in (ur&is! to play us somet!ing foreign# (!ey stru*& s!a&ily into ?Deuts*!land u er Alles? >ust as t!e S!erif *ame to !is telep!one in Me**a to listen to t!e musi* of our feast# 'e as&ed for more German musi*) and t!ey played ?4ine feste %urg?# (!en in t!e midst t!ey died away into fla y dis*ords of drums# (!e par*!ment !ad stret*!ed in t!e damp air of /idda# (!ey *ried for fire) and 'ilson?s servants and A dulla?s odyguard roug!t t!em piles of straw and pa*&ing *ases# (!ey warmed t!e drums, turning t!em round and round efore t!e la+e, and t!en ro&e into w!at t!ey said was t!e $ymn of $ate, t!oug! no one *ould re*ogni+e a 4uropean progression in it all# Sayed Ali turned to A dulla and said, ?.t is a deat! mar*!?# A dulla?s eyes widened) ut Storrs w!o spo&e in @ui*&ly to t!e res*ue turned t!e moment to laug!ter) and we sent out rewards wit! t!e

leavings of t!e feast to t!e sorrowful musi*ians, w!o *ould ta&e no pleasure in our praises, ut egged to e sent !ome# 0e3t morning . left /idda y s!ip for "a eg!#

&()PTE" .
Moored in "a eg! lay t!e )orthbrook, an .ndian Marine s!ip# 8n oard was Colonel ,ar&er, our liaison offi*er wit! S!erif Ali, to w!om !e sent my letter from A dulla, giving Ali t!e fat!er?s ?orders? to send me at on*e up to :eisal# A!? was staggered at t!eir tenour, ut *ould not !elp !imself) for !is only telegrap! to Me**a was y t!e s!ip?s wireless, and !e was as!amed to send personal remonstran*es t!roug! us# So !e made t!e est of it, and prepared for me !is own splendid riding*amel, saddled wit! !is own saddle, and !ung wit! lu3urious !ousings and *us!ions of 0e>d leat!erwor& pie*ed and inlaid in various *olours, wit! plaited fringes and nets em roidered wit! metal tissues# As a trustwort!y man !e *!ose out (afas el "aas!id, a $awa+im $ar tri esman, wit! !is son, to guide me to :eisal?s *amp# $e did all t!is wit! t!e etter gra*e for t!e *ountenan*e of 0uri Said, t!e %agdadi staff offi*er, w!om . !ad efriended on*e in Cairo w!en !e was ill# 0uri was now se*ond in *ommand of t!e regular for*e w!i*! A+i+ el Masri was raising and training !ere# Anot!er friend at *ourt was :aisel G!usein, a se*retary# $e was a Sulut S!ei&! from t!e $auran, and a former offi*ial of t!e (ur&is! Government, w!o !ad es*aped a*ross Armenia during t!e war, and !ad eventually rea*!ed Miss Gertrude %ell in %asra# S!e !ad sent him on to me wit! a warm re*ommendation#

Emir A"#ulla (o Ali !imself . too& a great fan*y# $e was of middle !eig!t, t!in, and loo&ing already more t!an !is t!irty-seven years# $e stooped a little# $is s&in was sallow, !is eyes large and deep and rown, !is nose t!in and rat!er !oo&ed, !is mout! sad and drooping# $e !ad a spare la*& eard and very deli*ate !ands# $is manner was dignified and admira le, ut dire*t) and !e stru*& me as a pleasant gentleman, *ons*ientious, wit!out great for*e of *!ara*ter, nervous, and rat!er tired# $is p!ysi*al wea&ness B!e was *onsumptiveC made !im su >e*t to @ui*& fits of s!a&ing passion, pre*eded and followed y long moods of infirm o stina*y# $e was oo&is!, learned in law and religion, and pious almost to fanati*ism# $e was too *ons*ious of !is !ig! !eritage to e am itious) and !is nature was too *lean to see or suspe*t interested motives in t!ose a out !im# Conse@uently !e was mu*! t!e prey of any *onstant *ompanion, and too sensitive to advi*e for a great leader, t!oug! !is purity of intention and *ondu*t gained !im t!e love of t!ose w!o *ame into dire*t *onta*t wit! !im# .f :eisal

s!ould turn out to e no prop!et, t!e revolt would ma&e s!ift well enoug! wit! Ali for its !ead# . t!oug!t !im more definitely Ara t!an A dulla, or t!an Geid, !is young !alf- rot!er, w!o was !elping !im at "a eg!, and *ame down wit! Ali and 0uri and A+i+ to t!e palm-groves to see me start# Geid was a s!y, w!ite, eardless lad of per!aps nineteen, *alm and flippant, no +ealot for t!e revolt# .ndeed, !is mot!er was (ur&is!) and !e !ad een roug!t up in t!e !arem, so t!at !e *ould !ardly feel great sympat!y wit! an Ara revival) ut !e did !is est t!is day to e pleasant, and surpassed AM, per!aps e*ause !is feelings were not mu*! outraged at t!e departure of a C!ristian into t!e $oly ,rovin*e under t!e auspi*es of t!e 4mir of Me**a# Geid, of *ourse, was even less t!an A dulla t!e orn leader of my @uest# 1et . li&ed !im, and *ould see t!at !e would e a de*ided man w!en !e !ad found !imself# Ali would not let me start till after sunset, lest any of !is followers see me leave t!e *amp# $e &ept my >ourney a se*ret even from !is slaves, and gave me an Ara *loa& and !ead-*lot! to wrap round myself and my uniform, t!at . mig!t present a proper sil!ouette in t!e dar& upon my *amel# . !ad no food wit! me) so !e instru*ted (afas to get somet!ing to eat at %ir el S!ei&!, t!e first settlement, some si3ty miles out, and *!arged !im most stringently to &eep me from @uestioning and *uriosity on t!e way, and to avoid all *amps and en*ounters# (!e Masru! $ar , w!o in!a ited "a eg! and distri*t, paid only lip-servi*e to t!e S!erif# (!eir real allegian*e was to $ussein Ma eirig, t!e am itious s!ei&! of t!e *lan, w!o was >ealous of t!e 4mir of Me**a and !ad fallen out wit! !im# $e was now a fugitive, living in t!e !ills to t!e 4ast, and was &nown to e in tou*! wit! t!e (ur&s# $is people were not nota ly pro-(ur&is!, ut owed !im o edien*e# .f !e !ad !eard of my departure !e mig!t well !ave ordered a and of t!em to stop me on my way t!roug! !is distri*t# (afas was a $a+imi, of t!e %eni Salem ran*! of $ar , and so not on good terms wit! t!e Masru!# (!is in*lined !im towards me) and w!en !e !ad on*e a**epted t!e *!arge of es*orting me to :eisal, we *ould trust !im# (!e fidelity of road-*ompanions was most dear to Ara tri esmen# (!e guide !ad to answer to a sentimental pu li* wit! !is Me for t!at of !is fellow# 8ne $ar i, w!o promised to ta&e $u er to Medina and ro&e !is word and &illed !im on t!e road near "a eg!, w!en !e found out t!at !e was a C!ristian, was ostra*i+ed y pu li* opinion, and, in spite of t!e religious pre>udi*es in !is favour, !ad ever sin*e lived misera ly alone in t!e !ills, *ut off from friendly inter*ourse, and refused permission to marry any daug!ter of t!e tri e# So we *ould depend upon t!e good will of (afas and !is son, A dulla) and Ali endeavoured y detailed instru*tions to ensure t!at t!eir performan*e s!ould e as good as t!eir intention# 'e mar*!ed t!roug! t!e palm-groves w!i*! lay li&e a girdle a out t!e s*attered !ouses of "a eg! village, and t!en out under t!e stars along t!e (e!ama, t!e sandy and featureless strip of desert ordering t!e western *oast of Ara ia etween sea- ea*! and littoral !ills, for !undreds of monotonous miles# .n day-time t!is low plain was insuffera ly !ot, and its waterless *!ara*ter made it a for idding road) yet it was inevita le, sin*e t!e more fruitful !ills were too rugged to afford passage nort! and sout! for loaded animals# (!e *ool of t!e nig!t was pleasant after t!e day of *!e*&s and dis*ussions w!i*! !ad so dragged at "a eg!# (afas led on wit!out spea&ing, and t!e *amels went silently over t!e soft flat sand# My t!oug!ts as we went were !ow t!is was t!e pilgrim road, down w!i*!, for un*ounted generations, t!e people of t!e nort! !ad *ome to visit t!e $oly City, earing wit! t!em gifts of fait! for t!e s!rine) and it seemed t!at t!e Ara revolt mig!t e in a sense a return pilgrimage, to ta&e a*& to t!e nort!, to Syria, an ideal for an ideal, a elief in li erty for t!eir past elief in a revelation# 'e endured for some !ours, wit!out variety e3*ept at times w!en t!e *amels plunged and strained a little and t!e saddles *rea&ed- indi*ations t!at t!e soft plain !ad merged into eds of drift-sand, dotted wit! tiny s*ru , and t!erefore uneven going, sin*e t!e plants *olle*ted little mounds a out t!eir roots, and t!e eddies of t!e sea-winds s*ooped !ollows in t!e intervening spa*es# Camels appeared not surefooted in t!e dar&, and t!e starlit sand *arried little s!adow, so t!at !ummo*&s and !oles were diffi*ult to see# %efore midnig!t we !alted, and . rolled myself tig!ter in my *loa&, and *!ose A# !ollow of my own si+e and s!ape, and slept well in it till nearly dawn#

As soon as !e felt t!e air growing *!ill wit! t!e *oming *!ange, (afas got up, and two minutes later we were swinging forward again# An !our after it grew rig!t, as we *lim ed a low ne*& of lava drowned nearly to t!e top wit! lown sand# (!is >oined a small flow near t!e s!ore to t!e main $e>a+ lava-field, w!ose western edge ran up upon our rig!t !and, and *aused t!e *oast road to lie w!ere it did# (!e ne*& was stony, ut rief- on ea*! side t!e lue lava !umped itself into low s!oulders, from w!i*!, so (afas said, it was possi le to see s!ips sailing on t!e sea# ,ilgrims !ad uilt *airns !ere y t!e road# Sometimes t!ey were individual piles, of >ust t!ree stones set up one a ove t!e ot!ersometimes t!ey were *ommon !eaps, to w!i*! any disposed passer- y mig!t add !is stone--not reasona ly nor wit! &nown motive, ut e*ause ot!ers did, and per!aps t!ey &new# %eyond t!e ridge t!e pat! des*ended into a road open pla*e, t!e Mastura!, or plain y w!i*! 'adi :ura flowed into t!e sea# Seaming its surfa*e wit! innumera le interwoven *!annels of loose stone, a few in*!es deep, were t!e eds of t!e flood water, on t!ose rare o**asions w!en t!ere was rain in t!e (areif and t!e *ourses raged li&e rivers to t!e sea# (!e delta !ere was a out si3 miles wide# Down some part of it water flowed for an !our or two, or even for a day or two, every so many years# 9nderground t!ere was plenty of moisture, prote*ted y t!e overlying sand from t!e sun-!eat) and t!orn trees and loose s*ru profited y it and flouris!ed# Some of t!e trun&s were a foot t!roug!- t!eir !eig!t mig!t e twenty feet# (!e trees and us!es stood somew!at apart, in *lusters, t!eir lower ran*!es *ropped y t!e !ungry *amels# So t!ey loo&ed *ared for, and !ad a premeditated air, w!i*! felt strange in t!e wilderness, more espe*ially as t!e (e!ama !it!erto !ad een a so er areness# (wo !ours up-stream, so (afas told me, was t!e t!roat w!ere 'adi :ura issued from t!e last granite !ills, and t!ere !ad een uilt a little village, ;!orei a, of running water *!annels and wells and palm-groves, in!a ited y a small population of freedmen engaged in date !us andry# (!is was important# 'e !ad not understood t!at t!e ed of 'adi :ura served as a dire*t road from near Medina to t!e neig! our!ood of "a eg!# .t lay so far sout! and east of :eisal?s supposed position in t!e !ills t!at !e *ould !ardly e said to *over it# Also A dulla !ad not warned us of t!e e3isten*e of ;!orei a, t!oug! it materially affe*ted t!e "a eg! @uestion, y affording t!e enemy a possi le watering-pla*e, safe from our interferen*e, and from t!e guns of our wars!ips# At ;!orei a t!e (ur&s *ould *on*entrate a large for*e to atta*& our proposed rigade in "a eg!# .n reply to furt!er @uestions, (afas dis*losed t!at at $a>ar, east of "a eg! in t!e !ills, was yet anot!er supply of water, in t!e !ands of t!e Masru!, and now t!e !ead@uarters of $ussein Ma eirig, t!eir (ur*op!il *!ief# (!e (ur&s *ould ma&e t!at t!eir ne3t stage from ;!orei a towards Me**a, leaving "a eg! unmolested and !armless on t!eir flan&# (!is meant t!at t!e as&ed-for %ritis! %rigade would e una le to save Me**a from t!e (ur&s# :or t!at purpose would e re@uired a for*e wit! A front or a radius of a*tion of some twenty miles, in order to deny all t!ree water-supplies to t!e enemy# Meanw!ile in t!e early sunlig!t we lifted our *amels to a steady trot a*ross t!e good going of t!ese s!ingle- eds among t!e trees, ma&ing for Mastura! well, t!e first stage out from "a eg! on t!e pilgrim road# (!ere we would water and !alt a little# My *amel was a delig!t to me, for . !ad not een on su*! an animal efore# (!ere were no good *amels in 4gypt) and t!ose of t!e Sinai Desert, w!ile !ardy and strong, were not taug!t to pa*e fair and softly and swiftly, li&e t!ese ri*! mounts of t!e Ara ian prin*es# 1et !er a**omplis!ments were to-day largely wasted, sin*e t!ey were reserved for riders w!o !ad t!e &na*& and as&ed for t!em, and not for me, w!o e3pe*ted to e *arried, and !ad no sense of !ow to ride# .t was easy to sit on a *amel?s a*& wit!out falling off, ut very diffi*ult to understand and get t!e est out of !er so as to do long >ourneys wit!out fatiguing eit!er rider or east# (afas gave me !ints as we went- indeed, it was one of t!e few su >e*ts on w!i*! !e would spea&# $is orders to preserve me from *onta*t wit! t!e world seemed to !ave *losed even !is mout!# A pity, for !is diale*t interested me# Huite *lose to t!e nort! an& of t!e Mastura!, we found t!e well# %eside it were some de*ayed stone walls w!i*! !ad een a !ut, and opposite it some little s!elters of ran*!es and palm-leaves, under w!i*! a few %eduin were sitting# 'e did not greet t!em# .nstead, (afas turned a*ross to t!e ruinous

walls, and dismounted) and . sat in t!eir s!ade w!ile !e and A dulla watered t!e animals, and drew a drin& for t!emselves and for me# (!e well was old, and road, wit! a good stone steyning, and a strong *oping round t!e top# .t was a out twenty feet deep) and for t!e *onvenien*e of travellers wit!out ropes, li&e ourselves, a s@uare *!imney !ad een *ontrived in t!e masonry, wit! foot and !and !olds in t!e *orners, so t!at a man mig!t des*end to t!e water, and fill !is goat-s&in# .dle !ands !ad flung so many stones down t!e s!aft, t!at !alf t!e ottom of t!e well was *!o&ed, and t!e water not a undant# A dulla tied !is flowing sleeves a out !is s!oulders) tu*&ed !is gown under !is *artridge elt) and *lam ered nim ly down and up, ringing ea*! time four or five gallons w!i*! !e poured for our *amels into a stone troug! eside t!e well# (!ey dran& a out five gallons ea*!, for t!ey !ad een watered at "a eg! a day a*&# (!en we let t!em moon a out a little, w!ile we sat in pea*e, reat!ing t!e lig!t wind *oming off t!e sea# A dulla smo&ed a *igarette as reward for !is e3ertions# Some $ar *ame up, driving a large !erd of rood *amels, and egan to water t!em, !aving sent one man down t!e well to fill t!eir large leat!er u*&et, w!i*! t!e ot!ers drew up !and over !and wit! a loud sta**ato *!ant# 'e wat*!ed t!em, wit!out inter*ourse) for t!ese were Masru!, and we %eni Salem) and w!ile t!e two *lans were now at pea*e, and mig!t pass t!roug! ea*! ot!er?s distri*ts, t!is was only a temporary a**ommodation to furt!er t!e S!erifs? war against t!e (ur&s, and !ad little dept! of goodwill in it# As we wat*!ed, two riders, trotting lig!t and fast on t!oroug! red *amels, drew towards us from t!e nort!# %ot! were young# 8ne was dressed in ri*! Cas!mere ro es and !eavy sil& em roidered !ead*lot!# (!e ot!er was plainer, in w!ite *otton, wit! a red *otton !ead-dress# (!ey !alted eside t!e well) and t!e more splendid one slipped gra*efully to t!e ground wit!out &neeling !is *amel, and t!rew !is !alter to !is *ompanion, saying, *arelessly, ?'ater t!em w!ile . go over t!ere and rest?# (!en !e strolled a*ross and sat down under our wall, after glan*ing at us wit! affe*ted un*on*ern# $e offered a *igarette, >ust rolled and li*&ed, saying, (our presen*e is from SyriaJ? . parried politely, suggesting t!at !e was from Me**a, to w!i*! !e li&ewise made no dire*t reply# 'e spo&e a little of t!e war and of t!e leanness of t!e Masru! s!e-*amels# Meanw!ile t!e ot!er rider stood y, va*antly !olding t!e !alters, waiting per!aps for t!e $ar to finis! watering t!eir !erd efore ta&ing !is turn# (!e young lord *ried '!at is it, MustafaJ 'ater t!em at on*e?# (!e servant *ame up to say dismally, (!ey will not let me?# ?God?s mer*yA? s!outed !is master furiously, as !e s*ram led to !is feet and !it t!e unfortunate Mustafa t!ree or four s!arp lows a out t!e !ead and s!oulders wit! !is riding-sti*& ?Go and as& t!em#? Mustafa loo&ed !urt, astonis!ed, and angry as t!oug! !e would !it a*&, ut t!oug!t etter of it, and ran to t!e well# (!e $ar , s!o*&ed, in pity made a pla*e for !im, and let !is two *amels drin& from t!eir watertroug!# (!ey w!ispered, ?'!o is !eJ? and Mustap!a said, ?8ur 2ord?s *ousin from Me**a?# At on*e t!ey ran and untied a undle from one of t!eir saddles, and spread from it efore t!e two riding *amels fodder of t!e green leaves and uds of t!e t!orn trees# (!ey were used to gat!er t!is y stri&ing t!e low us!es wit! a !eavy staff, till t!e ro&en tips of t!e ran*!es rained down on a *lot! stret*!ed over t!e ground eneat!# (!e young S!erif wat*!ed t!em *ontentedly# '!en !is *amel !ad fed, !e *lim ed slowly and wit!out apparent effort up its ne*& into t!e saddle, w!ere !e settled !imself leisurely, and too& an un*tuous farewell of us, as&ing God to re@uite t!e Ara s ountifully# (!ey wis!ed !im a good >ourney) and !e started sout!ward, w!ile A dulla roug!t our *amels, and we went off nort!ward# (en minutes later . !eard a *!u*&le from old (afas, and saw wrin&les of delig!t etween !is gri++led eard and mousta*!e# ?'!at is upon you, (afasJ? said .# ?My 2ord, you saw t!ose two riders at t!e wellJ? ?(!e S!erif and !is servantJ?

?1es) ut t!ey were S!erif Ali i n el $ussein of Mod!ig, and !is *ousin, S!erif Mo!sin, lords of t!e $arit!, w!o are lood enemies of t!e Masru!# (!ey feared t!ey would e delayed or driven off t!e water if t!e Ara s &new t!em# So t!ey pretended to e master and servant from Me**a# Did you see !ow Mo!sin raged w!en Ali eat !imJ Ali is a devil# '!ile only eleven years old !e es*aped from !is fat!er?s !ouse to !is un*le, a ro er of pilgrims y trade) and wit! !im !e lived y !is !ands for many mont!s, till !is fat!er *aug!t !im# $e was wit! our lord :eisal from t!e first day?s attle in Medina, and led t!e Atei a in t!e plains round Aar and %ir Derwis!# .t was all *amel-fig!ting) and Ali would !ave no man wit! !im w!o *ould not do as !e did, run eside !is *amel, and leap wit! one !and into t!e saddle, *arrying !is rifle# (!e *!ildren of $arit! are *!ildren of attle#? :or t!e first time t!e old man?s mout! was full of words#

&()PTE" .I
'!ile !e spo&e we s*oured along t!e da++ling plain, now nearly are of trees, and turning slowly softer under foot# At first it !ad een grey s!ingle, pa*&ed li&e gravel# (!en t!e sand in*reased and t!e stones grew rarer, till we *ould distinguis! t!e *olours of t!e separate fla&es, porp!yry, green s*!ist, asalt# At last it was nearly pure w!ite sand, under w!i*! lay a !arder stratum# Su*! going was li&e a pile-*arpet for our *amels? running# (!e parti*les of sand were *lean and polis!ed, and *aug!t t!e la+e of sun li&e little diamonds in a refle*tion so fier*e, t!at after a w!ile . *ould not endure it# . frowned !ard, and pulled t!e !ead-*lot! forward in a pea& over my eyes, and eneat! t!em, too, li&e a eaver, trying to s!ut out t!e !eat w!i*! rose in glassy waves off t!e ground, and eat up against my fa*e# 4ig!ty miles in front of us, t!e !uge pea& of "ud!wa e!ind 1en o was looming and fading in the da++le of vapour w!i*! !id its foot# Huite near in t!e plain rose t!e little s!apeless !ills of $esna, w!i*! seemed to lo*& t!e way# (o our rig!t was t!e steep ridge of %eni Ayu , toot!ed and narrow li&e a saw- lade, t!e first edge of t!e s!eaf of mountains etween t!e (e!ama and t!e !ig! s*arp of t!e ta leland a out Medina# (!ese (areif %eni Ayu fell away on t!eir nort! into a lue series of smaller !ills, soft in *!ara*ter, e!ind w!i*! lofty range after range in a >agged stairway, red now t!e sun grew low, *lim ed up to t!e towerin g *entral mass of /e el Su ! wit! its fantasti* granite spires# A little later we turned to t!e rig!t, off t!e pilgrim road, and too& a s!ort *ut a*ross gradually rising ground of flat asalt ridges, uried in sand till only t!eir topmost piles s!owed a ove t!e surfa*e# .t !eld moisture enoug! to e well grown over wit! !ard wiry grass and s!ru s up and down t!e slopes, on w!i*! a few s!eep and goats were pasturing# (!ere (afas s!owed me a stone, w!i*! was t!e limit of t!e distri*t of t!e Masru!, and told me wit! grim pleasure t!at !e was now at !ome, in !is tri al property, and mig!t *ome off !is guard# Men !ave loo&ed upon t!e desert as arren land, t!e free !olding of w!oever *!ose) ut in fa*t ea*! !ill and valley in it !ad a man w!o was its a*&nowledged owner and would @ui*&ly assert t!e rig!t of !is family or *lan to it, against aggression# 4ven t!e wells and trees !ad t!eir masters, w!o allowed men to ma&e firewood of t!e one and drin& of t!e ot!er freely, as mu*! as was re@uired for t!eir need, ut w!o would instantly *!e*& anyone trying to turn t!e property to a**ount and to e3ploit it or its produ*ts among ot!ers for private enefit# (!e desert was !eld in a *ra+ed *ommunism y w!i*! 0ature and t!e elements were for t!e free use of every &nown friendly person for !is own purposes and no more# 2ogi*al out*omes were t!e redu*tion of t!is li*en*e to privilege y t!e men of t!e desert, and t!eir !ardness to strangers unprovided wit! introdu*tion or guarantee, sin*e t!e *ommon se*urity lay in t!e *ommon responsi ility of &insmen# (afas, in !is own *ountry, *ould ear t!e urden of my safe-&eeping lig!tly# (!e valleys were e*oming s!arply mar&ed, wit! *lean eds of sand and s!ingle, and an o**asional large oulder roug!t down y a flood# (!ere were many room us!es, restfully grey and green to t!e eye, and good for fuel, t!oug! useless as pasture# 'e as*ended steadily till we re>oined t!e main tra*& of t!e pilgrim road# Along t!is we !eld our way till sunset, w!en we *ame into sig!t of t!e !amlet of %ir el S!ei&!# .n t!e first dar& as t!e supper fires were lig!ted we rode down its wide open street and !alted# (afas went into one of t!e twenty misera le !uts, and in a few w!ispered words and

long silen*es oug!t flour, of w!i*! wit! water !e &neaded a doug! *a&e two in*!es t!i*& and eig!t in*!es a*ross# (!is !e uried in t!e as!es of a rus!wood fire, provided for !im y a Su ! woman w!om !e seemed to &now# '!en t!e *a&e was warmed !e drew it out of t!e fire, and *lapped it to s!a&e off t!e dust) t!en we s!ared it toget!er, w!ile A dulla went away to uy !imself to a**o# (!ey told me t!e pla*e !ad two stone-lined wells at t!e ottom of t!e sout!ward slope, ut . felt disin*lined to go and loo& at t!em, for t!e long ride t!at day !ad tired my una**ustomed mus*les, and t!e !eat of t!e plain !ad een painful# My s&in was listered y it, and my eyes a*!ed wit! t!e glare of lig!t stri&ing up at a s!arp angle from t!e silver sand, and from t!e s!ining pe les# (!e last two years . !ad spent in Cairo, at a des& all day or t!in&ing !ard in a little over*rowded offi*e full of distra*ting noises, wit! a !undred rus!ing t!ings to say, ut no odily need e3*ept to *ome and go ea*! day etween offi*e and !otel# .n *onse@uen*e t!e novelty of t!is *!ange was severe, sin*e time !ad not een given me gradually to a**ustom myself to t!e pestilent eating of t!e Ara ian sun, and t!e long monotony of *amel pa*ing# (!ere was to e anot!er stage tonig!t, and a long day to-morrow efore :eisal?s *amp would e rea*!ed# So . was grateful for t!e *oo&ing and t!e mar&eting, w!i*! spent one !our, and for t!e se*ond !our of rest after it w!i*! we too& y *ommon *onsent) and sorry w!en it ended, and we re-mounted, and rode in pit*! dar&ness up valleys and down valleys, passing in and out of ands of air, w!i*! were !ot in t!e *onfined !ollows, ut fres! and stirring in t!e open pla*es# (!e ground under foot must !ave een sandy, e*ause t!e silen*e of our passage !urt my straining ears, and smoot!, for . was always falling asleep in t!e saddle, to wa&e a few se*onds later suddenly and si*&eningly, as . *lut*!ed y instin*t at t!e saddle post to re*over my alan*e w!i*! !ad een t!rown out y some irregular stride of t!e animal# .t was too dar&, and t!e forms of t!e *ountry were too neutral, to !old my !eavy-las!ed, peering eyes# At lengt! we stopped for good, long after midnig!t) and . was rolled up in my *loa& and asleep in a most *omforta le little sand-grave efore (afas !ad done &nee-!altering my *amel# (!ree !ours later we were on t!e move again, !elped now y t!e last s!ining of t!e moon# 'e mar*!ed down 'adi Mared, t!e nig!t of it dead, !ot, silent, and on ea*! side s!arp-pointed !ills standing up la*& and w!ite in t!e e3!austed air# (!ere were many trees# Dawn finally *ame to us as we passed out of t!e narrows into a road pla*e, over w!ose flat floor an uneasy wind span *ir*les, *apri*iously in t!e dust# (!e day strengt!ened always, and now s!owed %ir i n $assani >ust to our rig!t# (!e trim settlement of a surd little !ouses, rown and w!ite, !olding toget!er for se*urity?s sa&e, loo&ed doll-li&e and more lonely t!an t!e desert, in t!e immense s!adow of t!e dar& pre*ipi*e of Su !, e!ind# '!ile we wat*!ed it, !oping to see life at its doors, t!e sun was rus!ing up, and t!e fretted *liffs, t!ose t!ousands of feet a ove our !eads, e*ame outlined in !ard refra*ted s!afts of w!ite lig!t against a s&y still sallow wit! t!e transient dawn# 'e rode on a*ross t!e great valley# A *amel-rider, garrulous and old, *ame out from t!e !ouses and >ogged over to >oin us# $e named !imself ;!allaf, too friendly-li&e# $is salutation *ame after a pause in a trite stream of *!at) and w!en it was returned !e tried to for*e us into *onversation# $owever, (afas grudged !is *ompany, and gave !im s!ort answers# ;!allaf persisted, and finally, to improve !is footing, ent down and urrowed in !is saddle pou*! till !e found a small *overed pot of enamelled iron, *ontaining a li eral portion of t!e staple of travel in t!e $e>a+# (!is was t!e unleavened doug! *a&e of yesterday, ut *rum led etween t!e fingers w!ile still warm, and moistened wit! li@uid utter till its parti*les would fall apart only relu*tantly# .t was t!en sweetened for eating wit! ground sugar, and s*ooped up li&e damp sawdust in pressed pellets wit! t!e fingers# . ate a little, on t!is my first attempt, w!ile (afas and A dulla played at it vigorously) so for !is ounty ;!allaf went !alf-!ungry- deservedly, for it was t!oug!t effeminate y t!e Ara s to *arry a provision of food for a little >ourney of one !undred miles# 'e were now fellows, and t!e *!at egan again w!ile ;!allaf told us a out t!e last fig!ting, and a reverse :eisal !ad !ad t!e day efore# .t seemed !e !ad een eaten out of ;!eif in t!e !ead of 'adi Safra, and was now at $amra, only a little way in front of us) or at least ;!allaf t!oug!t !e was t!ere- we mig!t learn for sure in 'asta, t!e ne3t village on our road# (!e fig!ting !ad not een severe) ut t!e few *asualties were all among t!e

tri esmen of (afas and ;!allaf) and t!e names and !urts of ea*! were told in order# Meanw!ile . loo&ed a out, interested to find myself in a new *ountry# (!e sand and detritus of last nig!t and of %ir el S!ei&! !ad vanis!ed# 'e were mar*!ing up a valley, from two !undred to five !undred yards in widt!, of s!ingle and lig!t soil, @uite firm, wit! o**asional &nolls of s!attered green stone *ropping out in its midst# (!ere were many t!orn trees, some of t!em woody a*a*ias, t!irty feet and more in !eig!t, eautifully green, wit! enoug! of tamaris& and soft s*ru to give t!e w!ole a *!arming, well &ept, par&-li&e air, now in t!e long soft s!adows of t!e early morning# (!e swept ground was so flat and *lean, t!e pe les so variegated, t!eir *olours so >oyously lended t!at t!ey gave a sense of design to t!e lands*ape) and t!is feeling was strengt!ened y t!e straig!t lines and s!arpness of t!e !ills# (!ey rose on ea*! !and regularly, pre*ipi*es a t!ousand feet in !eig!t, of granite- rown and dar& porp!yry-*oloured ro*&, wit! pin& stains) and y a strange fortune t!ese glowing !ills rested on !undred-foot ases of t!e *ross-grained stone, w!ose unusual *olour suggested a t!in growt! of moss# 'e rode along t!is eautiful pla*e for a out seven miles, to a low waters!ed, *rossed y a wall of granite slivers, now little more t!an a s!apeless !eap, ut on*e no dou t a arrier# .t ran from *liff to *liff, and even far up t!e !ill-sides, w!erever t!e slopes were not too steep to *lim # .n t!e *entre, w!ere t!e road passed, !ad een two small en*losures li&e pounds# . as&ed ;!allaf t!e purpose of t!e wall# $e replied t!at !e !ad een in Damas*us and Constantinople and Cairo, and !ad many friends among t!e great men of 4gypt# Did . &now any of t!e 4nglis! t!ereJ ;!allaf seemed *urious a out my intentions and my !istory# $e tried to trip me in 4gyptian p!rases# '!en . answered in t!e diale*t of Aleppo !e spo&e of prominent Syrians of !is a*@uaintan*e# . &new t!em, too) and !e swit*!ed off into lo*al politi*s, as&ing *areful @uestions, deli*ately and indire*tly, a out t!e S!erif and !is sons, and w!at . t!oug!t :eisal was going to do# . understood less of t!is t!an !e, and parried in*onse@uentially# (afas *ame to my res*ue, and *!anged t!e su >e*t# Afterwards we &new t!at ;!allaf was in (ur&is! pay, and used to send fre@uent reports of w!at *ame past %ir i n $assani for t!e Ara for*es# A*ross t!e wall we were in an affluent of 'adi Safra, a more wasted and stony valley among less rilliant !ills# .t ran into anot!er, far down w!i*! to t!e west lay a *luster of dar& palm-trees, w!i*! t!e Ara s said was /edida, one of t!e slave villages in 'adi Safra# 'e turned to t!e rig!t, a*ross anot!er saddle, and t!en down!ill for a few miles to a *orner of tall *liffs# 'e rounded t!is and found ourselves suddenly in 'adi Safra, t!e valley of our see&ing, and in t!e midst of 'asta, its largest village# 'asta seemed to e many nests of !ouses, *linging to t!e !illsides ea*! side t!e torrent- ed on an&s of alluvial soil, or standing on detritus islands etween t!e various deep-swept *!annels w!ose sum made up t!e parent valley# "iding etween two or t!ree of t!ese uilt-up islands, we made for t!e far an& of t!e valley# 8n our way was t!e main ed of t!e winter floods, a sweep of w!ite s!ingle and oulders, @uite flat# Down its middle, from palm-grove on t!e one side to palm-grove on t!e ot!er, lay a rea*! of *lear water, per!aps two !undred yards long and twelve feet wide, sand- ottomed, and ordered on ea*! rin& y a ten-foot lawn of t!i*& grass and flowers# 8n it we !alted a moment to let our *amels put t!eir !eads down and drin& t!eir fill, and t!e relief of t!e grass to our eyes after t!e day-long !ard glitter of t!e pe les was so sudden t!at involuntarily . glan*ed up to see if a *loud !ad not *overed t!e fa*e of t!e sun# 'e rode up t!e stream to t!e garden from w!i*! it ran spar&ling in a stone-lined *!annel) and t!en we turned along t!e mud wall of t!e garden in t!e s!adow of its palms, to anot!er of t!e deta*!ed !amlets# (afas led t!e way up its little street Bt!e !ouses were so low t!at from our saddles we loo&ed down upon t!eir *lay roofsC, and near one of t!e larger !ouses stopped and eat upon t!e door of an un*overed *ourt# A slave opened to us, and we dismounted in priva*y# (afas !altered t!e *amels, loosed t!eir girt!s, and strewed efore t!em green fodder from a fragrant pile eside t!e gate# (!en !e led me into t!e guest-room of t!e !ouse, a dar& *lean little mud- ri*& pla*e, roofed wit! !alf palmlogs under !ammered eart!# 'e sat down on t!e palm-leaf mat w!i*! ran along t!e dais# (!e day in

t!is stifling valley !ad grown very !ot) and gradually we lay a*& side y side# (!en t!e !um of t!e ees in t!e gardens wit!out, and of t!e flies !overing over our veiled fa*es wit!in, lulled us into sleep#

&()PTE" .II
%efore we awo&e, a meal of read and dates !ad een prepared for us y t!e people of t!e !ouse# (!e dates were new, meltingly sweet and good, li&e none . !ad ever tasted# (!e owner of t!e property, a $ar i, was, wit! !is neig! ours, away serving :eisal) and !is women and *!ildren were tenting in t!e !ills wit! t!e *amels# At t!e most, t!e tri al Ara s of 'adi Safra lived in t!eir villages five mont!s a year# :or t!e ot!er seasons t!e gardens were entrusted to slaves, negroes li&e t!e grown lads w!o roug!t in t!e tray to us, and w!ose t!i*& lim s and plump s!ining odies loo&ed *uriously out of pla*e among t!e irdli&e Ara s# ;!allaf told me t!ese la*&s were originally from Afri*a, roug!t over as *!ildren y t!eir nominal (a&ruri fat!ers, and sold during t!e pilgrimage, in Me**a# '!en grown strong t!ey were wort! from fifty to eig!ty pounds apie*e, and were loo&ed after *arefully as efitted t!eir pri*e# Some e*ame !ouse or ody servants wit! t!eir masters) ut t!e ma>ority were sent out to t!e palm villages of t!ese feveris! valleys of running water, w!ose *limate was too ad for Ara la our, ut w!ere t!ey flouris!ed and uilt t!emselves solid !ouses, and mated wit! women slaves, and did all t!e manual wor& of t!e !olding# (!ey were very numerous--for instan*e, t!ere were t!irteen villages of t!em side y side in t!is 'adi Safra--so t!ey formed a so*iety of t!eir own, and lived mu*! at t!eir pleasure# (!eir wor& was !ard, ut t!e supervision loose, and es*ape easy# (!eir legal status was ad, for t!ey !ad no appeal to tri al >usti*e, or even to t!e S!erifs *ourts) ut pu li* opinion and self-interest depre*ated any *ruelty towards t!em, and t!e tenet of t!e fait! t!at to enlarge a slave is a good deed, meant in pra*ti*e t!at nearly all gained freedom in t!e end# (!ey made po*&et-money during t!eir servi*e, if t!ey were ingenious# (!ose . saw !ad property, and de*lared t!emselves *ontented# (!ey grew melons, marrows, *u*um er, grapes and to a**o for t!eir own a**ount, in addition to t!e dates, w!ose surplus was sent a*ross to t!e Sudan y sailing d!ow, and t!ere e3*!anged for *orn, *lot!ing and t!e lu3uries of Afri*a or 4urope# After t!e midday !eat was passed we mounted again, and rode up t!e *lear, slow rivulet till it was !idden wit!in t!e palm-gardens, e!ind t!eir low oundary walls of sun-dried *lay# .n and out etween t!e tree roots were dug little *anals a foot or two deep, so *ontrived t!at t!e stream mig!t e let into t!em from t!e stone *!annel and ea*! tree watered in its turn# (!e !ead of water was owned y t!e *ommunity, and s!ared out among t!e landowners for so many minutes or !ours daily or wee&ly a**ording to t!e traditional use# (!e water was a little ra*&is!, as was needful for t!e est palms) ut it was sweet enoug! in t!e wells of private water in t!e groves# (!ese wells were very fre@uent, and found water t!ree or four feet elow t!e surfa*e# 8ur way too& us t!roug! t!e *entral village and its mar&et street# (!ere was little in t!e s!ops) and all t!e pla*e felt de*ayed# A generation ago 'asta was populous Bt!ey said of a t!ousand !ousesC) ut one day t!ere rolled a !uge wall of water down 'adi Safra, t!e em an&ments of many palm-gardens were rea*!ed, and t!e palm trees swept away# Some of t!e islands on w!i*! !ouses !ad stood for *enturies were su merged, and t!e mud !ouses melted a*& again into mud, &illing or drowning t!e unfortunate slaves wit!in# (!e men *ould !ave een repla*ed, and t!e trees, !ad t!e soil remained) ut t!e gardens !ad een uilt up of eart! *arefully won from t!e normal fres!ets y years of la our, and t!is wave of water--eig!t feet deep, running in a ra*e for t!ree days--redu*ed t!e plots in its tra*& to t!eir primordial an&s of stones# A little a ove 'asta we *ame to ;!arma, a tiny settlement wit! ri*! palm-groves, w!ere a tri utary ran in from t!e nort!# %eyond ;!arma t!e valley widened somew!at, to an average of per!aps four !undred yards, wit! a ed of fine s!ingle and sand, laid very smoot! y t!e winter rains# (!e walls were of are red and la*& ro*&, w!ose edges and ridges were s!arp as &nife lades, and refle*ted t!e sun li&e metal# (!ey made t!e fres!ness of t!e trees and grass seem lu3urious# 'e now saw parties of :eisal?s soldiers, and gra+ing !erds of t!eir saddle *amels# %efore we rea*!ed $ar!ra every noo& in

t!e ro*&s or *lump of trees was a ivoua*# (!ey *ried *!eery greetings to (afas, w!o *ame to Me again, waving a*& and *alling to t!em, w!ile !e pressed on @ui*&ly to end !is duty towards me# $amra opened on our left# .t seemed a village of a out one !undred !ouses, uried in gardens among mounds of eart! some twenty feet in !eig!t# 'e forded a little stream, and went up a walled pat! etween trees to t!e top of one of t!ese mounds, w!ere we made our *amels &neel y t!e yard-gate of a long, low !ouse# (afas said somet!ing to a slave w!o stood t!ere wit! silver-!ilted sword in !and# $e led me to an inner *ourt, on w!ose furt!er side, framed etween t!e uprig!ts of a la*& doorway, stood a w!ite figure waiting tensely for me# . felt at first glan*e t!at t!is was t!e man . !ad *ome to Ara ia to see&--t!e leader w!o would ring t!e Ara "evolt to full glory# :eisal loo&ed very tall and pillar-li&e, very slender, in !is long w!ite sil& ro es and !is rown !ead-*lot! ound wit! a rilliant s*arlet and gold *ord# $is eyelids were dropped) and !is la*& eard and *olourless fa*e were li&e a mas& against t!e strange, still wat*!fulness of !is ody# $is !ands were *rossed in front of !im on !is dagger# . greeted !im# $e made way for me into t!e room, and sat down on !is *arpet near t!e door# As my eyes grew a**ustomed to t!e s!ade, t!ey saw t!at t!e little room !eld many silent figures, loo&ing at me or at :eisal steadily# $e remained staring down at !is !ands, w!i*! were twisting slowly a out !is dagger# At last !e in@uired softly !ow . !ad found t!e >ourney# . spo&e of t!e !eat, and !e as&ed !ow long from "a eg!, *ommenting t!at . !ad ridden fast for t!e season# ?And do you li&e our pla*e !ere in 'adi SafraJ? 'ell) ut it is far from Damas*us#? (!e word !ad fallen li&e a sword in t!eir midst# (!ere was a @uiver# (!en every ody present stiffened w!ere !e sat, and !eld !is reat! for a silent minute# Some, per!aps, were dreaming of far off su**essot!ers may !ave t!oug!t it a refle*tion on t!eir late defeat# :eisal at lengt! lifted !is eyes, smiling at me, and said, ?,raise e to God, t!ere are (ur&s nearer us t!an t!at?# 'e all smiled wit! !im) and . rose and e3*used myself for t!e moment#

&()PTE" .III
9nder tall ar*ades of palms wit! ri ed and groined ran*!es, in a soft meadow, . found t!e trim *amp of 4gyptian Army soldiers wit! 0afi %ey, t!eir 4gyptian ma>or, sent lately from t!e Sudan y Sir "eginald 'ingate to !elp t!e Ara re ellion# (!ey *omprised a mountain attery and some ma*!ine-guns, and loo&ed smarter t!an t!ey felt# 0afi !imself was an amia le fellow, &ind and !ospita le to me in spite of wea& !ealt! and !is resentment at !aving een sent so far away into t!e desert to serve in an unne*essary and toilsome war# 4gyptians, eing !ome-loving persons and *omforta le, found strangeness always a misery# .n t!is ad instan*e t!ey suffered !ards!ip for a p!ilant!ropi* end, w!i*! made it !arder# (!ey were fig!ting t!e (ur&s, for w!om t!ey !ad a sentimental regard, on e!alf of t!e Ara s, an alien people spea&ing a language &indred to t!eir own, ut appearing t!erefore all t!e more unli&e in *!ara*ter, and *rude in life# (!e Ara s seemed !ostile to t!e material lessings of *ivili+ation rat!er t!an appre*iative of t!em# (!ey met wit! a ri ald !oot well-meaning attempts to furnis ! t!eir areness# 4nglis!men eing sure of t!eir own a solute e3*ellen*e would persist in !elp wit!out grum ling overmu*!) ut t!e 4gyptians lost fait!# (!ey !ad neit!er t!at *olle*tive sense of duty towards t!eir State, nor t!at feeling of individual o ligation to pus! struggling !umanity up its road# (!e vi*arious poli*emans!ip w!i*! was t!e strongest emotion of 4nglis!men towards anot!er man?s muddle, in t!eir *ase was repla*ed y t!e instin*t to pass y as dis*reetly far as possi le on t!e ot!er side# So, t!oug! all was well wit! t!ese soldiers, and t!ey !ad a undant rations and good !ealt! and no *asualties, yet t!ey found fault wit! t!e !andling of t!e universe, and !oped t!is une3pe*ted 4nglis!man !ad *ome to set it rig!t# :eisal was announ*ed wit! Maulud el Mu&!lus, t!e Ara +ealot of (e&rit, w!o, for rampant

nationalism !ad een twi*e degraded in t!e (ur&is! Army, and !ad spent an e3ile of two years in 0e>d as a se*retary wit! i n "as!id# $e !ad *ommanded t!e (ur&is! *avalry efore S!ai a, and !ad een ta&en y us t!ere# As soon as !e !eard of t!e re ellion of t!e S!erif !e !ad volunteered for !im, and !ad een t!e first regular offi*er to >oin :eisal# $e was now nominally !is A#D#C# %itterly !e *omplained t!at t!ey were in every way ill-e@uipped# (!is was t!e main *ause of t!eir present plig!t# (!ey got t!irty t!ousand pounds a mont! from t!e S!erif, ut little flour and ri*e, little arley, few rifles, insuffi*ient ammunition, no ma*!ine-guns, no mountain guns, no te*!ni*al !elp, no information# . stopped Maulud t!ere and said t!at my *oming was e3pressly to learn w!at t!ey la*&ed and to report it, ut t!at . *ould wor& wit! t!em only if t!ey would e3plain to me t!eir general situation# :eisal agreed, and egan to s&et*! to me t!e !istory of t!eir revolt from its a solute eginning# (!e first rus! on Medina !ad een a desperate usiness# (!e Ara s were ill-armed and s!ort of ammunition, t!e (ur&s in great for*e, sin*e :a&!ri?s deta*!ment !ad >ust arrived and t!e troops to es*ort von Stot+ingen to 1emen were still in t!e town# At t!e !eig!t of t!e *risis t!e %eni Ali ro&e) and t!e Ara s were t!rust out eyond t!e walls# (!e (ur&s t!en opened fire on t!em wit! t!eir artillery) and t!e Ara s, unused to t!is new arm, e*ame terrified# (!e Ageyl and Atei a got into safety and refused to move out again# :eisal and Ali i n el $ussein vainly rode a out in front of t!eir men in t!e open, to s!ow t!em t!at t!e ursting s!ells were not as fatal as t!ey sounded# (!e demorali+ation deepened# Se*tions of %eni Ali tri esmen approa*!ed t!e (ur&is! *ommand wit! an offer to surrender, if t!eir villages were spared# :a&!ri played wit! t!em, and in t!e ensuing lull of !ostilities surrounded t!e Awali su ur wit! !is troops- t!en suddenly !e ordered t!em to *arry it y assault and to massa*re every living t!ing wit!in its walls# $undreds of t!e in!a itants were raped and ut*!ered, t!e !ouses fired, and living and dead ali&e t!rown a*& into t!e flames# :a&!ri and !is men !ad served toget!er and !ad learned t!e arts of ot! t!e slow and t!e fast &ill upon t!e Armenians in t!e 0ort!# (!is itter taste of t!e (ur&is! mode of war sent a s!o*& a*ross Ara ia) for t!e first rule of Ara war was t!at women were inviola le- t!e se*ond t!at t!e lives and !onour of *!ildren too young to fig!t wit! men were to e spared- t!e t!ird, t!at property impossi le to *arry off s!ould e left undamaged# (!e Ara s wit! :eisal per*eived t!at t!ey were opposed to new *ustoms, and fell a*& out of tou*! to gain time to read>ust t!emselves# (!ere *ould no longer e any @uestion of su mission- t!e sa*& of Awali !ad opened lood feud upon lood feud, and put on t!em t!e duty of fig!ting to t!e end of t!eir for*e- ut it was plain now t!at it would e a long affair, and t!at wit! mu++le-loading guns for sole weapons, t!ey *ould !ardly e3pe*t to win# So t!ey fell a*& from t!e level plains a out Medina into t!e !ills a*ross t!e Sultani-road, a out Aar and "a!a and %ir A as, w!ere t!ey rested a little, w!ile Ali and :eisal sent messenger after messenger down to "a eg!, t!eir sea- ase, to learn w!en fres! stores and money and arms mig!t e e3pe*ted# (!e revolt !ad egun !ap!a+ard, on t!eir fat!er?s e3pli*it orders, and t!e old man, too independent to ta&e !is sons into !is full *onfiden*e, !ad not wor&ed out wit! t!em any arrangements for prolonging it# So t!e reply was only a little food# 2ater some /apanese rifles, most of t!em ro&en, were re*eived# Su*! arrels as were still w!ole were so foul t!at t!e too-eager Ara s urst t!em on t!e first trial# 0o money was sent up at all- to ta&e its pla*e :eisal filled a de*ent *!est wit! stones, !ad it lo*&ed and *orded *arefully, guarded on ea*! daily mar*! y !is own slaves, and introdu*ed meti*ulously into !is tent ea*! nig!t# %y su*! t!eatri*als t!e rot!ers tried to !old a melting for*e# At last Ali went down to "a eg! to in@uire w!at was wrong wit! t!e organi+ation# $e found t!at $ussein Ma eirig, t!e lo*al *!ief, !ad made up !is mind t!at t!e (ur&s would e vi*torious B!e !ad tried *on*lusions wit! t!em twi*e !imself and !ad t!e worst of itC, and a**ordingly de*ided t!eirs was t!e est *ause to follow# As t!e stores for t!e S!erif were landed y t!e %ritis! !e appropriated t!em and stored t!em away se*retly in !is own !ou ses# Ali made a demonstration, and sent urgent messages for !is !alf- rot!er Geid to >oin !im from /idda wit! reinfor*ements# $ussein, in fear, slipped off to

t!e !ills, an outlaw# (!e two S!erifs too& possession of !is villages# .n t!em t!ey found great stores of arms, and food enoug! for t!eir armies for a mont!# (!e temptation of a spell of leisured ease was too mu*! for t!em- t!ey settled down in "a eg!# (!is left :eisal alone up *ountry, and !e soon found !imself isolated, in a !ollow situation, driven to depend upon !is native resour*es# $e ore it for a time, ut in August too& advantage of t!e visit of Colonel 'ilson to t!e newly-*on@uered 1en o, to *ome down and give a full e3planation of !is urgent needs# 'ilson was impressed wit! !im and !is story, and at on*e promised !im a attery of mountain guns and some ma3ims, to e !andled y men and offi*ers of t!e 4gyptian Army garrison in t!e Sudan# (!is e3plained t!e presen*e of 0afi %ey and !is units# (!e Ara s re>oi*ed w!en t!ey *a me, and elieved t!ey were now e@uals of t!e (ur&) ut t!e four guns were twenty-year-old ;rupps, wit! a range of only t!ree t!ousand yards) and t!eir *rews were not eager enoug! in rain and spirit for irregular fig!ting# $owever, t!ey went foward wit! t!e mo and drove in t!e (ur&is! outposts, and t!en t!eir supports, until :a&!ri e*oming seriously alarmed, *ame down !imself, inspe*ted t!e front, and at on*e reinfor*ed t!e t!reatened deta*!ment at %ir A as to some t!ree t!ousand strong# (!e (ur&s !ad field guns and !owit+ers wit! t!em, and t!e added advantage of !ig! ground for o servation# (!ey egan to worry t!e Ara s y indire*t fire, and nearly dropped a s!ell on :eisal?s tent w!ile all t!e !ead men were *onferring wit!in# (!e 4gyptian gunners were as&ed to return t!e fire and smot!er t!e enemy guns# (!ey !ad to plead t!at t!eir weapons were useless, sin*e t!ey *ould not *arry t!e nine t!ousand yards# (!ey were derided) and t!e Ara s ran a*& again into t!e defiles# :eisal was deeply dis*ouraged# $is men were tired# $e !ad lost many of t!em# $is only effe*tive ta*ti*s against t!e enemy !ad een to *!ase in suddenly upon t!eir rear y fast mounted *!arges, and many *amels !ad een &illed, or wounded or worn out in t!ese e3pensive measures# $e demurred to *arrying t!e w!ole war upon !is own ne*& w!ile A dulla delayed in Me**a, and Ali and Geid at "a eg!# :inally !e wit!drew t!e ul& of !is for*es, leaving t!e $ar su -tri es w!o lived y %ir A as to &eep up pressure on t!e (ur&is! supply *olumns and *ommuni*ations y a repeated series of su*! raids as t!ose w!i*! !e !imself found impossi le to maintain# 1et !e !ad no fear t!at t!e (ur&s would again *ome forward against !im suddenly# $is failure to ma&e any impression on t!em !ad not im ued !im wit! t!e smallest respe*t for t!em# $is late retirement to $amra was not for*ed- it was a gesture of disgust e*ause !e was ored y !is o vious impoten*e, and was determined for a little w!ile to !ave t!e dignity of rest# After all, t!e two sides were still untried# (!e armament of t!e (ur&s made t!em so superior at long range t!at t!e Ara s never got to grips# :or t!is reason most of t!e !and-to-!and fig!ting !ad ta&en pla*e at nig!t, w!en t!e guns were linded# (o my ears t!ey sounded oddly primitive attles, wit! torrents of words on ot! sides in a preliminary mat*! of wits# After t!e foulest insults of t!e languages t!ey &new would *ome t!e *lima3, w!en t!e (ur&s in fren+y *alled t!e Ara s ?4nglis!?, and t!e Ara s s*reamed a*& ?German? at t!em# (!ere were, of *ourse, no Germans in t!e $e>a+, and . was t!e first 4nglis!man) ut ea*! party loved *ursing, and any epit!et would sting on t!e tongues of su*! artists# . as&ed :eisal w!at !is plans were now# $e said t!at till Medina fell t!ey were inevita ly tied down t!ere in $e>a+ dan*ing to :a&!ri?s tune# .n !is opinion t!e (ur&s were aiming at t!e re*apture of Me**a# (!e ul& of t!eir strengt! was now in a mo ile *olumn, w!i*! t!ey *ould move towards "a eg! y a *!oi*e of routes w!i*! &ept t!e Ara s in *onstant alarm# A passive defen*e of t!e Su ! !ills !ad s!own t!at t!e Ara s did not s!ine as passive resisters# '!en t!e enemy moved t!ey must e *ountered y an offensive# :eisal meant to retire furt!er yet, to t!e 'adi 1en o order of t!e great /u!eina tri e# 'it! fres! levies from t!em !e would mar*! eastwards towards t!e $e>a+ "ailway e!ind Medina, at t!e moment w!en A dulla was advan*ing y t!e lava-desert to atta*& Medina from t!e east# $e !oped t!at A!? would go up simultaneously from "a eg!, w!ile Geid moved into 'adi Safra to engage t!e

ig (ur&is! for*e at %ir A as, and &eep it out of t!e main attle# %y t!is plan Medina would e t!reatened or atta*&ed on all sides at on*e# '!atever t!e su**ess of t!e atta*&, t!e *on*entration from t!ree sides would at least rea& up t!e prepared (ur&is! pus!-outwards on t!e fourt!, and give "a eg! and t!e sout!ern $e>a+ a reat!ing spa*e to e@uip t!emselves for effe*tive defen*e, or *ounter-atta*&# Maulud, w!o !ad sat fidgeting t!roug! our long, slow tal&, *ould no longer restrain !imself and *ried out, ?Don?t write a !istory of us# (!e needful t!ing is to fig!t and fig!t and &ill t!em# Give me a attery of S*!neider mountain guns, and ma*!ine-guns, and . will finis! t!is off for you# 'e tal& and tal& and do not!ing#? . replied as warmly) and Maulud, a magnifi*ent fig!ter, w!o regarded a attle won as a attle wasted if !e did not s!ow some wound to prove !is part in it, too& me up# 'e wrangled w!ile :eisal sat y and grinned delig!tedly at us# (!is tal& !ad een for !im a !oliday# $e was en*ouraged even y t!e trifle of my *oming) for !e was a man of moods, fli*&ering etween glory and despair, and >ust now dead-tired# $e loo&ed years older t!an t!irty-one) and !is dar&, appealing eyes, set a little sloping in !is fa*e, were loods!ot, and !is !ollow *!ee&s deeply lined and pu*&ered wit! refle*tion# $is nature grudged t!in&ing, for it *rippled !is speed in a*tion- t!e la our of it s!rivelled !is features into swift lines of pain# .n appearan*e !e was tall, gra*eful and vigorous, wit! t!e most eautiful gait, and a royal dignity of !ead and s!oulders# 8f *ourse !e &new it, and a great part of !is pu li* e3pression was y sign and gesture# $is movements were impetuous# $e s!owed !imself !ot-tempered and sensitive, even unreasona le, and !e ran off soon on tangents# Appetite and p!ysi*al wea&ness were mated in !im, wit! t!e spur of *ourage# $is personal *!arm, !is impruden*e, t!e pat!eti* !int of frailty as t!e sole reserve of t!is proud *!ara*ter made !im t!e idol of !is followers# 8ne never as&ed if !e were s*rupulous) ut later !e s!owed t!at !e *ould return trust for trust, suspi*ion for suspi*ion# $e was fuller of wit t!an of !umour# $is training in A dul $amid?s entourage !ad made !im past-master in diploma*y# $is military servi*e wit! t!e (ur&s !ad given !im a wor&ing &nowledge of ta*ti*s# $is life in Constantinople and in t!e (ur&is! ,arliament !ad made !im familiar wit! 4uropean @uestions and manners# $e was a *areful >udge of men# .f !e !ad t!e strengt! to reali+e !is dreams !e would go very far, for !e was wrapped up in !is wor& and lived for not!ing else) ut t!e fear was t!at !e would wear !imself out y trying to seem to aim always a little !ig!er t!an t!e trut!, or t!at !e would die of too mu*! a*tion# $is men told me !ow, after a long spell of fig!ting, in w!i*! !e !ad to guard !imself, and lead t!e *!arges, and *ontrol and en*ourage t!em, !e !ad *ollapsed p!ysi*ally and was *arried away from !is vi*tory, un*ons*ious, wit! t!e foam fle*&ing !is lips# Meanw!ile, !ere, as it seemed, was offered to our !and, w!i*! !ad only to e ig enoug! to ta&e it, a prop!et w!o, if veiled, would give *ogent form to t!e idea e!ind t!e a*tivity of t!e Ara revolt# .t was all and more t!an we !ad !oped for, mu*! more t!an our !alting *ourse deserved# (!e aim of my trip was fulfilled# My duty was now to ta&e t!e s!ortest road to 4gypt wit! t!e news- and t!e &nowledge gained t!at evening in t!e palm wood grew and lossomed in my mind into a t!ousand ran*!es, laden wit! fruit and s!ady leaves, eneat! w!i*! . sat and !alf-listened and saw visions, w!ile t!e twilig!t deepened, and t!e nig!t) until a line of slaves wit! lamps *ame down t!e winding pat!s etween t!e palm trun&s, and wit! :eisal and Maulud we wal&ed a*& t!roug! t!e gardens to t!e little !ouse, wit! its *ourts still full of waiting people, and to t!e !ot inner room in w!i*! t!e familiars were assem led) and t!ere we sat down toget!er to t!e smo&ing owl of ri*e and meat set upon t!e food-*arpet for our supper y t!e slaves#

&()PTE" .I+
So mi3ed was t!e *ompany, S!erifs, Me**ans, s!ei&!s of t!e /u!eina and Atei a, Mesopotamians, Ageyl, t!at . t!rew apples of dis*ord, inflammatory su >e*ts of tal& amongst t!em, to sound t!eir

mettle and eliefs wit!out delay# :eisal, smo&ing innumera le *igarettes, &ept *ommand of t!e *onversation even at its !ottest, and it was fine to wat*! !im do it# $e s!owed full mastery of ta*t, wit! a real power of disposing men?s feelings to !is wis!# Storrs was as effi*ient) ut Storrs paraded !is strengt!, e3!i iting all t!e *leverness and ma*!inery, t!e movements of !is !ands w!i*! made t!e *reatures dan*e# :eisal seemed to govern !is men un*ons*iously- !ardly to &now !ow !e stamped !is mind on t!em, !ardly to *are w!et!er t!ey o eyed# .t was as great art as Storrs?) and it *on*ealed itself, for :eisal was orn to it# (!e Ara s loved !im openly- indeed, t!ese *!an*e meetings made *lear !ow to t!e tri es t!e S!erif and !is sons were !eroi*# S!erif $ussein BSayidna as t!ey *alled !imC was outwardly so *lean and gentle-mannered as to seem wea&) ut t!is appearan*e !id a *rafty poli*y, deep am ition, and an unAra ian foresig!t, strengt! of *!ara*ter and o stina*y# $is interest in natural !istory reinfor*ed !is sporting instin*ts, and made !im Bw!en !e pleasedC a fair *opy of a %eduin prin*e, w!ile !is Cir*assian mot!er !ad endowed !im wit! @ualities foreign to ot! (ur& and Ara , and !e displayed *onsidera le astuteness in turning now one, now anot!er of !is in!erited assets to present advantage# 1et t!e s*!ool of (ur&is! politi*s was so igno le t!at not even t!e est *ould graduate from it unaffe*ted# $ussein w!en young !ad een !onest, outspo&en # # # and !e learned not merely to suppress !is spee*!, ut to use spee*! to *on*eal !is !onest purpose# (!e art, over-indulged, e*ame a vi*e from w!i*! !e *ould not free !imself# .n old age am iguity *overed !is every *ommuni*ation# 2a&e a *loud it !id !is de*ision of *!ara*ter, !is worldly wisdom, !is *!eerful strengt!# Many denied him su*! @ualities- ut !istory gave proof# 8ne instan*e of !is worldly wisdom was t!e up ringing of !is sons# (!e Sultan !ad made t!em live in Constantinople to re*eive a (ur&is! edu*ation# S!erif $ussein saw to it t!at t!e edu*ation was general and good# '!en t!ey *ame a*& to t!e $e>a+ as young effendis in 4uropean *lot!es wit! (ur&is! manners, t!e fat!er ordered t!em into Ara dress) and, to ru up t!eir Ara i*, gave t!em Me**an *ompanions and sent t!em out into t!e wilds, wit! t!e Camel Corps, to patrol t!e pilgrim roads# (!e young men t!oug!t it mig!t e an amusing trip, ut were das!ed w!en t!eir fat!er for ade t!em spe*ial food, edding, or soft-padded saddles# $e would not let t!em a*& to Me**a, ut &ept t!em out for mont!s in all seasons guarding t!e roads y day and y nig!t, !andling every variety of man, and learning fres! met!ods of riding and fig!ting# Soon t!ey !ardened, and e*ame self-reliant, wit! t!at lend of native intelligen*e and vigour w!i*! so often *omes in a *rossed sto*&# (!eir formida le family group was admired and effi*ient, ut *uriously isolated in t!eir world# (!ey were natives of no *ountry, lovers of no private plot of ground# (!ey !ad no real *onfidants or ministers) and no one of t!em seemed open to anot!er, or to t!e fat!er, of w!om t!ey stood in awe# (!e de ate after supper was an animated one# .n my *!ara*ter as a Syrian . made sympat!eti* referen*e to t!e Ara leaders w!o !ad een e3e*uted in Damas*us y /emal ,as!a# (!ey too& me up s!arply- t!e pu lis!ed papers !ad dis*losed t!at t!ese men were in tou*! wit! foreign Governments, and ready to a**ept :ren*! or %ritis! su+erainty as t!e pri*e of !elp# (!is was a *rime against Ara nationality, and /emal !ad only e3e*uted t!e implied senten*e# :eisal smiled, almost win&ed, at me# ?1ou see,? !e e3plained, ?we are now of ne*essity tied to t!e %ritis!# 'e are delig!ted to e t!eir friends, grateful for t!eir !elp, e3pe*tant of our future profit# %ut we are not %ritis! su >e*ts# 'e would e more at ease if t!ey were not su*! disproportionate allies#? . told a story of A dulla el "aas!id, on t!e way up to $amra# $e !ad groaned to me of t!e %ritis! sailors *oming as!ore ea*! day at "a eg!# ?Soon t!ey will stay nig!ts, and t!en t!ey will live !ere always, and ta&e t!e *ountry#? (o *!eer !im . !ad spo&en of millions of 4nglis!men now as!ore in :ran*e, and of t!e :ren*! not afraid# '!ereat !e !ad turned on me s*ornfully, as&ing if . meant to *ompare :ran*e wit! t!e land of $e>a+iJ :eisal mused a little and said, . am not a $e>a+i y up ringing) and yet, y God, . am >ealous for it# And t!oug! . &now t!e %ritis! do not want it, yet w!at *an . say, w!en t!ey too& t!e Sudan, also not wanting itJ (!ey !unger for desolate lands, to uild t!em up) and so, per!aps, one day Ara ia will

seem to t!em pre*ious# 1our good and my good, per!aps t!ey are different, and eit!er for*ed good or for*ed evil will ma&e a people *ry wit! pain# Does t!e ore admire t!e flame w!i*! transforms itJ (!ere is no reason for offen*e, ut a people too wea& are *lamant over t!eir little own# 8ur ra*e will !ave a *ripple?s temper till it !as found its feet#? (!e ragged, lousy tri esmen w!o !ad eaten wit! us astonis!ed me y t!eir familiar understanding of intense politi*al nationality, an a stra*t idea t!ey *ould !ardly !ave *aug!t from t!e edu*ated *lasses of t!e $e>a+ towns, from t!ose $indus, /avanese, %o&!ariots, Sudanese, (ur&s, out of sympat!y wit! Ara ideals, and indeed >ust t!en suffering A little from t!e for*e of lo*al sentiment, springing too !ig! after its sudden es*ape from (ur&is! *ontrol# S!erif $ussein !ad !ad t!e worldly wisdom to ase !is pre*epts on t!e instin*tive elief of t!e Ara s t!at t!ey were of t!e salt of t!e eart! and selfsuffi*ient# (!en, ena led y !is allian*e wit! us to a*& !is do*trine y arms and money, !e was assured of su**ess# 8f *ourse, t!is su**ess was not level t!roug!out# (!e great ody of S!erifs, eig!t !undred or nine !undred of t!em, understood !is nationalist do*trine and were !is missionaries, su**essful missionaries t!an&s to t!e revered des*ent from t!e ,rop!et, w!i*! gave t!em t!e power to !old men?s minds, and to dire*t t!eir *ourses into t!e willing @uietness of eventual o edien*e# (!e tri es !ad followed t!e smo&e of t!eir ra*ial fanati*ism# (!e towns mig!t sig! for t!e *loying ina*tivity of 8ttoman rule- t!e tri es were *onvin*ed t!at t!ey !ad made a free and Ara Government, and t!at ea*! of t!em was .t# (!ey were independent and would en>oy t!emselves--a *onvi*tion and resolution w!i*! mig!t !ave led to anar*!y, if t!ey !ad not made more stringent t!e family tie, and t!e onds of &in-responsi ility# %ut t!is entailed a negation of *entral power# (!e S!erif mig!t !ave legal sovereignty a road, if !e !i&ed t!e !ig!-sounding toy) ut !ome affairs were to e *ustomary# (!e pro lem of t!e foreign t!eorists--.s Damas*us to rule t!e $e>a+, or *an $e>a+ rule Damas*usJ? did not trou le t!em at all, for t!ey would not !ave it set# (!e Semites? idea of nationality was t!e independen*e of *lans and villages, and t!eir ideal of national union was episodi* *om ined resistan*e to an intruder# Constru*tive poli*ies, an organi+ed state, an e3tended empire, were not so mu*! eyond t!eir sig!t as !ateful in it# (!ey were fig!ting to get rid of 4mpire, not to win it# (!e feeling of t!e Syrians and Mesopotamians in t!ese Ara armies was indire*t# (!ey elieved t!at y fig!ting in t!e lo*al ran&s, even !ere in $e>a+, t!ey were vindi*ating t!e general rig!ts of all Ara s to national e3isten*e) and wit!out envisaging one State, or even a *onfederation of States, t!ey were definitely loo&ing nort!ward, wis!ing to add an autonomous Damas*us and %agdad to t!e Ara family# (!ey were wea& in material resour*es, and even after su**ess would e, sin*e t!eir world was agri*ultural and pastoral, wit!out minerals, and *ould never e strong in modern armaments# 'ere it ot!erwise, we s!ould !ave !ad to pause efore evo&ing in t!e strategi* *entre of t!e Middle 4ast new national movements of su*! a ounding vigour# 8f religious fanati*ism t!ere was little tra*e# (!e S!erif refused in round terms to give a religious twist to !is re ellion# $is fig!ting *reed was nationality# (!e tri es &new t!at t!e (ur&s were Moslems, and t!oug!t t!at t!e Germans were pro a ly true friends of .slam# (!ey &new t!at t!e %ritis! were C!ristians, and t!at t!e %ritis! were t!eir allies# .n t!e *ir*umstan*es, t!eir religion would not !ave een of mu*! !elp to t!em, and t!ey !ad put it aside# ?C!ristian fig!ts C!ristian, so w!y s!ould not Mo!ammedans do t!e sameJ '!at we want is a Government w!i*! spea&s our own language of Ara i* and will let us live in pea*e# Also we !ate t!ose (ur&s#?

&()PTE" .+
0e3t morning . was up early and out among :eisal?s troops towards t!e side of ;!eif, y myself, trying to feel t!e pulse of t!eir opinions in a moment, y su*! tri*&s as t!ose played upon t!eir *!iefs t!e nig!t efore# (ime was of t!e essen*e of my effort, for it was ne*essary to gain in ten days t!e impressions w!i*! would ordinarily !ave een t!e fruit of wee&s of o serving in my *ra -fas!ion, t!at sideways-slipping affair of t!e senses# 0ormally . would go along all day, wit! t!e sounds

immediate, ut lind to every detail, only generally aware t!at t!ere were t!ings red, or t!ings grey, or *lear t!ings a out me# (o-day my eyes !ad to e swit*!ed straig!t to my rain, t!at . mig!t note a t!ing or two t!e more *learly y *ontrast wit! t!e former mistiness# Su*! t!ings were nearly always s!apes- ro*&s and trees, or men?s odies in repose or movement- not small t!ings li&e flowers, nor @ualities li&e *olour# 1et !ere was strong need of a lively reporter# .n t!is dra war t!e least irregularity was a >oy to all, and M*Ma!on?s strongest *ourse was to e3ploit t!e latent imagination of t!e General Staff# . elieved in t!e Ara movement, and was *onfident, efore ever . *ame, t!at in it was t!e idea to tear (ur&ey into pie*es) ut ot!ers in 4gypt la*&ed fait!, and !ad een taug!t not!ing intelligent of t!e Ara s in t!e field# %y noting down somet!ing of t!e spirit of t!ese romanti*s in t!e !ills a out t!e $oly Cities . mig!t gain t!e sympat!y of C airo for t!e furt!er measures ne*essary to !elp t!em# (!e men re*eived me *!eerfully# %eneat! every great ro*& or !us! t!ey sprawled li&e la+y s*orpions, resting from t!e !eat, and refres!ing t!eir rown lim s wit! t!e early *oolness of t!e s!aded stone# %e*ause of my &!a&i t!ey too& me for a (ur&-trained offi*er w!o !ad deserted to t!em, and were profuse in good-!umoured ut g!astly suggestions of !ow t!ey s!ould treat me# Most of t!em were young, t!oug! t!e term ?fig!ting man? in t!e $e>a+ meant anyone etween twelve and si3ty sane enoug! to s!oot# (!ey were a toug!-loo&ing *rowd, dar&-*oloured, some negroid# (!ey were p!ysi*ally t!in, ut e3@uisitely made, moving wit! an oiled a*tivity altoget!er delig!tful to wat*!# .t did not seem possi le t!at men *ould e !ardier or !arder# (!ey would ride immense distan*es day after day, run t!roug! sand and over ro*&s are-foot in t!e !eat for !ours wit!out pain, and *lim t!eir !ills li&e goats# (!eir *lot!ing was mainly a loose s!irt, wit! sometimes s!ort *otton drawers, and a !ead-s!awl usually of red *lot!, w!i*! a*ted towel or !and&er*!ief or sa*& as re@uired# (!ey were *orrugated wit! andoliers, and fired >oy-s!ots w!en t!ey *ould# (!ey were in wild spirits, s!outing t!at t!e war mig!t last ten years# .t was t!e fattest time t!e !ills !ad ever &nown# (!e S!erif was feeding not only t!e fig!ting men, ut t!eir families, and paying two pounds a mont! for a man, four for a *amel# 0ot!ing else would !ave performed t!e mira*le of &eeping a tri al army in t!e field for five mont!s on end# .t was our !a it to sneer at 8riental soldiers? love of pay) ut t!e $e>a+ *ampaign was a good e3ample of t!e limitations of t!at argument# (!e (ur&s were offering great ri es, and o taining little servi*e--no a*tive servi*e# (!e Ara s too& t!eir money, and gave gratifying assuran*es in e3*!ange) yet t!ese very tri es would e meanw!ile in tou*! wit! :eisal, w!o o tained servi*e for !is payment# (!e (ur&s *ut t!e t!roats of t!eir prisoners wit! &nives, as t!oug! t!ey were ut*!ering s!eep# :eisal offered a reward of a pound a !ead for prisoners, and !ad many *arried in to !im un!urt# $e also paid for *aptured mules or rifles# (!e a*tual *ontingents were *ontinually s!ifting, in o edien*e to t!e rule of fles!# A family would own a rifle, and t!e sons serve in turn for a few days ea*!# Married men alternated etween *amp and wife, and sometimes a w!ole *lan would e*ome ored and ta&e a rest# Conse@uently t!e paid men were more t!an t!ose mo ili+ed) and poli*y often gave to great s!ei&!s, as wages, money t!at was a polite ri e for friendly *ountenan*e# :eisal?s eig!t t!ousand men were one in ten *amel-*orps and t!e rest !ill-men# (!ey served only under t!eir tri al s!ei&!s, and near !ome, arranging t!eir own food and transport# 0ominally ea*! s!ei&! !ad a !undred followers# S!erifs a*ted as group leaders, in virtue of t!eir privileged position, w!i*! raised t!em a ove t!e >ealousies w!i*! s!a*&led t!e tri esmen# %lood feuds were nominally !ealed, and really suspended in t!e S!erifian area- %illi and /u!eina, Atei a and Ageyl living and fig!ting side y side in :eisal?s army# All t!e same, t!e mem ers of one tri e were s!y of t!ose of anot!er, and wit!in t!e tri e no man would @uite trust !is neig! our# 4a*! mig!t e, usually was, w!ole!earted against t!e (ur&, ut per!aps not @uite to t!e point of failing to wor& off a family grudge upon a family enemy in t!e field# Conse@uently t!ey *ould not atta*&# 8ne *ompany of (ur&s firmly entren*!ed in open *ountry *ould !ave defied t!e entire army of t!em) and a pit*!ed defeat, wit! its *asualties, would !ave ended t!e war y s!eer !orror# . *on*luded t!at t!e tri esmen were good for defen*e only# (!eir a*@uisitive re*&lessness made t!em

&een on ooty, and w!etted t!em to tear up railways, plunder *aravans, and steal *amels) ut t!ey were too free-minded to endure *ommand, or to fig!t in team# A man w!o *ould fig!t well y !imself made generally a ad soldier, and t!ese *!ampions seemed to me no material for our drilling) ut if we strengt!ened t!em y lig!t automati* guns of t!e 2ewis type, to e !andled y t!emselves, t!ey mig!t e *apa le of !olding t!eir !ills and serving as an effi*ient s*reen e!ind w!i*! we *ould uild up, per!aps at "a eg!, an Ara regular mo ile *olumn, *apa le of meeting a (ur&is! for*e Bdistra*ted y guerilla warfareC on terms, and of defeating it pie*emeal# :or su*! a ody of real soldiers no re*ruits would e fort!*oming from $e>a+# .t would !ave to e formed of t!e !eavy unwarli&e Syrian and Mesopotamian towns-fol& already in our !ands, and offi*ered y Ara i*-spea&ing offi*ers trained in t!e (ur&is! army, men of t!e type and !istory of A+i+ el Masri or Maulud# (!ey would eventually finis! t!e war y stri&ing, w!ile t!e tri esmen s&irmis!ed a out, and !indered and distra*ted t!e (ur&s y t!eir pin-pri*& raids# (!e $e>a+ war, meanw!ile, would e one of dervis!es against regular troops# .t was t!e fig!t of a ro*&y, mountainous, arren *ountry Breinfor*ed y a wild !orde of mountaineersC against an enemy so enri*!ed in e@uipment y t!e Germans as almost to !ave lost virtue for roug!-and-tum le war# (!e !ill- elt was a paradise for snipers) and Ara s were artists in sniping# (wo or t!ree !undred determined men &nowing t!e ranges s!ould !old any se*tion of t!em) e*ause t!e slopes were too steep for es*alade# (!e valleys, w!i*! were t!e only pra*ti*a le roads, for miles and miles were not so mu*! valleys as *!asms or gorges, sometimes two !undred yards a*ross, ut sometimes only twenty, full of twists and turns, one t!ousand or four t!ousand feet deep, arren of *over, and flan&ed ea*! side y pitiless granite, asalt and porp!yry, not in polis!ed slopes, ut serrated and split and piled up in t!ousands of >agged !eaps of fragments as !ard as metal and nearly as s!arp# .t seemed to my una**ustomed eyes impossi le t!at, wit!out trea*!ery on t!e part of t!e mountain tri es, t!e (ur&s *ould dare to rea& t!eir way t!roug!# 4ven wit! trea*!ery as an ally, to pass t!e !ills would e dangerous# (!e enemy would never e sure t!at t!e fi*&le population mig!t not turn again) and to !ave su*! a la yrint! of defiles in t!e rear, a*ross t!e *ommuni*ations, would e worse t!an !aving it in front# 'it!out t!e friends!ip of t!e tri es, t!e (ur&s would own only t!e ground on w!i*! t!eir soldiers stood) and lines so long and *omple3 would soa& up t!ousands of men in a fortnig!t, and leave none in t!e attle-front# (!e sole dis@uieting feature was t!e very real su**ess of t!e (ur&s in frig!tening t!e Ara s y artillery# A+i+ el Masri in t!e (ur&-.talian war in (ripoli !ad found t!e same terror, ut !ad found also t!at it wore off# 'e mig!t !ope t!at t!e same would !appen !ere) ut for t!e moment t!e sound of a fired *annon sent every man wit!in ears!ot e!ind *over# (!ey t!oug!t weapons destru*tive in proportion to t!eir noise# (!ey were not afraid of ullets, not indeed overmu*! of dying- >ust t!e manner of deat! y s!ell-fire was unendura le# .t seemed to me t!at t!eir moral *onfiden*e was to e restored only y !aving guns, useful or useless, ut noisy, on t!eir side# :rom t!e magnifi*ent :eisal down to t!e most na&ed stripling in t!e army t!e t!eme was artillery, artillery, artillery# '!en . told t!em of t!e landing of t!e five-in*! !owit+ers at "a eg! t!ey re>oi*ed# Su*! news nearly alan*ed in t!eir minds t!e *!e*& of t!eir last retreat down 'adi Safra# (!e guns would e of no real use to t!em- indeed, it seemed to me t!at t!ey would do t!e Ara s positive !arm) for t!eir virtues lay in mo ility and intelligen*e, and y giving t!em guns we !ampered t!eir movements and effi*ien*y# 8nly if we did not give t!em guns t!ey would @uit# At t!ese *lose @uarters t!e igness of t!e revolt impressed me# (!is well-peopled provin*e, from 9na 2e>> to ;unfida, more t!an a fortnig!t?s *amel mar*!, !ad suddenly *!anged its *!ara*ter from a rout of *asual nomad pilferers to an eruption against (ur&ey, fig!ting !er, not *ertainly in our manner, ut fier*ely enoug!, in spite of t!e religion w!i*! was to raise t!e 4ast against us in a !oly war# %eyond anyt!ing *al*ula le in figures, we !ad let loose a passion of anti-(ur&is! feeling w!i*!, em ittered as it !ad een y generations of su >e*tion, mig!t die very !ard# (!ere was among t!e tri es in t!e fig!ting +one a nervous ent!usiasm *ommon, . suppose, to all national risings, ut strangely dis@uieting to one from a land so long delivered t!at national freedom !ad e*ome li&e t!e water in

our mout!s, tasteless# 2ater . saw :eisal again, and promised to do my est for !im# My *!iefs would arrange a ase at 1en o, w!ere t!e stores and supplies !e needed would e put as!ore for !is e3*lusive use# 'e would try to get !im offi*er-volunteers from among t!e prisoners of war *aptured in Mesopotamia or on t!e Canal# 'e would form gun *rews and ma*!ine-gun *rews from t!e ran& and file in t!e internment *amps, and provide t!em wit! su*! mountain guns and lig!t ma*!ine-guns as were o taina le in 4gypt# 2astly, . would advise t!at %ritis! Army offi*ers, professionals, e sent down to a*t as advisers and liaison offi*ers wit! !im in t!e field# (!is time our tal& was of t!e pleasantest, and ended in warm t!an&s from !im, and an invitation to return as soon as mig!t e# . e3plained t!at my duties in Cairo e3*luded field wor&, ut per!aps my *!iefs would let me pay a se*ond visit later on, w!en !is present wants were filled and !is movement was going forward prosperously# Meanw!ile . would as& for fa*ilities to go down to 1en o, for 4gypt, t!at . mig!t get t!ings on foot promptly# $e at on*e appointed me an es*ort of fourteen /u!eina S!erifs, all &insmen of Mo!amed Ali i n %eidawi, t!e 4mir of t!e /u!eina# (!ey were to deliver me inta*t in 1en o to S!ei&! A d el ;adir el A do, its Governor#

&()PTE" .+I
2eaving $amra as dus& fell, we mar*!ed a*& down 'adi Safra until opposite ;!arma, w!ere we turned to t!e rig!t up t!e side valley# .t was *losely grown wit! stiff rus!wood, t!roug! w!i*! we drove our *amels strenuously, !aving tu*&ed up t!e streamers of our saddle- ags to save t!em from eing s!redded y t!e t!orns# (wo miles later we egan to *lim t!e narrow pass of D!ifran, w!i*! gave eviden*e even y nig!t of la our e3pended on t!e road# .t !ad een artifi*ially smoot!ed, and t!e stones piled at ea*! side into a !eavy wall of prote*tion against t!e rus! of water in t!e rains# ,arts !ad een graded, and were at times *arried on a *auseway uilt seemingly si3 or eig!t feet !ig!, of great lo*&s of un*ut stone- ut it !ad een rea*!ed at every turn y torrents, and was in terri le ruin# (!e as*ent lasted per!aps for a mile) and t!e steep des*ent on t!e ot!er side was a out t!e same# (!en we got to t!e level and found ourselves in a mu*! ro&en *ountry of ridges, wit! an intri*ate net of wadies w!ose main flow was apparently towards t!e sout!-west# (!e going was good for our *amels# 'e rode for a out seven miles in t!e dar&, and *ame to a well, %ir el Murra, in a valley ed under a very low luff, on w!ose !ead t!e s@uare *ourses of a small fort of as!lar stood out against t!e starry s&y# Con*eiva ly ot! fort and *auseway !ad een uilt y an 4gyptian Mamelu&e for t!e passage of !is pilgrim-*aravan from 1en o# 'e !alted t!ere for t!e nig!t, sleeping for si3 !ours, a long lu3ury upon t!e road, t!oug! t!is rest was ro&en twi*e y *!allenges from !alf-seen mounted parties w!o !ad found our ivoua*# Afterwards we wandered among more small ridges until t!e dawn s!owed gentle valleys of sand wit! strange !ills of lava !emming us a out# (!e lava !ere was not t!e lue- la*& *inder-stone of t!e fields a out "a eg!- it was rust-*oloured, and piled in !uge *rags of flowing surfa*e and ent and twisted te3ture, as t!oug! played wit! oddly w!ile yet soft# (!e sand, at first a *arpet a out t!e foot of t!e dolerite, gradually gained on it# (!e !ills got lower, wit! t!e sand an&ed up against t!em in greater drifts, till even t!e *rests were sand-spattered, and at last drowned eyond sig!t# So, as t!e sun e*ame !ig! and painfully fier*e, we led out upon a waste of dunes, rolling sout!ward for miles down !ill to t!e misty sea, w!ere it lay grey- lue in t!e false distan*e of t!e !eat# (!e dunes were narrow# %y !alf-past seven we were on a staring plain of glassy sand mi3ed wit! s!ingle, overspread y tall s*ru and t!orn us!es, wit! some good a*a*ia trees# 'e rode very fast a*ross t!is, myself in some dis*omfort) for . was not a s&illed rider- t!e movement e3!austed me, w!ile sweat ran down my fore!ead and dripped smartingly into my gritty, sun-*ra*&ed eyelids# Sweat was a*tually wel*ome w!en a drop fell from t!e end of a tuft of !air, to stri&e on t!e *!ee& *old and sudden and une3pe*ted li&e a splas!, ut t!ese refres!ments were too few to pay for t!e pain of !eat# 'e pressed on, w!ile t!e sand yielded to pure s!ingle, and t!at again !ardened into t!e ed of a great

valley, running down y s!allow, interwoven mout!s toward s t!e sea# 'e *rossed over a rise, and from t!e far side opened a wide view, w!i*! was t!e delta of 'adi 1en o, t!e largest valley of 0ort!ern $e>a+# .t seemed a vivid *opse of tamaris& and t!orn# (o t!e rig!t, some miles up t!e valley, s!owed dar&ly t!e palm-groves of 0a&!i Mu ara&, a village and gardens of t!e %eni . ra!im /u!eina# .n t!e distan*e, a!ead of us, lay t!e massive /e el "ud!wa, rooding always so instantly over 1en o, t!oug! more t!an twenty miles away# 'e !ad seen it from Mastura!, for it was one of t!e great !ills of $e>a+, t!e more wonderful e*ause it lifted itself in one *lear edge from flat (e!ama to *rest# My *ompanions felt at !ome in its prote*tion) so, as t!e plain was now dan*ing wit! un eara le !eat, we too& s!ade under t!e ran*!es of a leafy a*a*ia eside t!e pat!, and slum ered t!roug! t!e middle day# .n t!e afternoon we watered our *amels at a ra*&is! little water !ole in t!e sand ed of a ran*! water*ourse, efore a trim !edge of t!e feat!ery tamaris&, and t!en pus!ed on for two more !appy !ours# At last we !alted for t!e nig!t in typi*al (e!ama *ountry of are slowly-swelling sand and s!ingle ridges, wit! s!allow valleys# (!e S!erifs lit a fire of aromati* wood to a&e read and oil *offee) and we slept sweetly wit! t!e salt sea air *ool on our *!afed fa*es# 'e rose at two in t!e morning, and ra*ed our *amels over a featureless plain of !ard s!ingle and wet sand to 1en o, w!i*! stood up wit! walls and towers on a reef of *oral rag twenty feet a ove our level# (!ey too& me straig!t t!roug! t!e gates y *rum ling, empty streets--1en o !ad een !alf a *ity of t!e dead sin*e t!e $e>a+ "ailway opened--to t!e !ouse of A d el ;ader, :eisal?s agent, a well-informed, effi*ient, @uiet and dignified person, wit! w!om we !ad !ad *orresponden*e w!en !e was postmaster in Me**a, and t!e Survey in 4gypt !ad een ma&ing stamps for t!e new State# $e !ad >ust een transferred !ere# 'it! A d el ;ader, in !is pi*tures@ue ram ling !ouse loo&ing over t!e deserted s@uare, w!en*e so many Medina *aravans !ad started, . stayed four days waiting for t!e s!ip, w!i*! seemed as if it mig!t fail me at t!e rende+vous# $owever, at last t!e Suva appeared, wit! Captain %oyle, w!o too& me a*& to /idda# .t was my first meeting wit! %oyle# $e !ad done mu*! in t!e eginning of t!e revolt, and was to do mu*! more for t!e future- ut . failed to ma&e a good return impression# . was travel-stained and !ad no aggage wit! me# 'orst of all . wore a native !ead-*lot!, put on as a *ompliment to t!e Ara s# %oyle disapproved# 8ur persisten*e in t!e !at Bdue to a misunderstanding of t!e ways of !eat-stro&eC !ad led t!e 4ast to see signifi*an*e in it, and after long t!oug!t t!eir wisest rains *on*luded t!at C!ristians wore t!e !ideous t!ing t!at its road rim mig!t interpose etween t!eir wea& eyes and t!e un*ongenial sig!t of God# So it reminded .slam *ontinually t!at God was mis*alled and misli&ed y C!ristians# (!e %ritis! t!oug!t t!is pre>udi*e repre!ensi le B@uite unli&e our !atred of a !ead-*lot!C, one to e *orre*ted at any pri*e# .f t!e people would not !ave us !atted, t!ey s!ould not !ave us any way# 0ow as it !appened . !ad een edu*ated in Syria efore t!e war to wear t!e entire Ara outfit w!en ne*essary wit!out strangeness, or sense of eing so*ially *ompromised# (!e s&irts were a nuisan*e in running up stairs, ut t!e !ead-*lot! was even *onvenient in su*! a *limate# So . !ad a**epted it w!en . rode inland, and must now *ling to it under fire of naval disapproval, till some s!op s!ould sell me a *ap# .n /idda was t!e Euryalus, wit! Admiral 'emyss, ound for ,ort Sudan t!at Sir "osslyn mig!t visit Sir "eginald 'ingate at ;!artum# Sir "eginald, as Sirdar of t!e 4gyptian Army, !ad een put in *ommand of t!e %ritis! military side of t!e Ara adventure in pla*e of Sir $enry M*Ma!on, w!o *ontinued to dire*t its politi*s) and it was ne*essary for me to see !im, to impart my impressions to !im# So . egged t!e Admiral for a passage over sea, and a pla*e in !is train to ;!artum# (!is !e readily granted, after *ross-@uestioning me !imself at lengt!# . found t!at !is a*tive mind and road intelligen*e !ad engaged !is interest in t!e Ara "evolt from t!e eginning# $e !ad *ome down again and again in !is flags!ip to lend a !and w!en t!ings were *riti*al, and !ad gone out of !is way twenty times to !elp t!e s!ore, w!i*! properly was Army

usiness# $e !ad given t!e Ara s guns and ma*!ine-guns, landing parties and te*!ni*al !elp, wit! unlimited transport and naval *o-operation, always ma&ing a real pleasure of re@uests, and fulfilling t!em in overflowing measure# $ad it not een for Admiral 'emyss? good will, and pres*ien*e, and t!e admira le way in w!i*! Captain %oyle *arried out !is wis!es, t!e >ealousy of Sir Ar*!i ald Murray mig!t !ave wre*&ed t!e S!erifs re ellion at its start# As it was, Sir "osslyn 'emyss a*ted godfat!er till t!e Ara s were on t!eir feet) w!en !e went to 2ondon) and Allen y, *oming out fres! to 4gypt, found t!e Ara s a fa*tor on !is attle front, and put t!e energies and resour*es of t!e Army at t!eir disposal# (!is was opportune, and a fortunate twist of t!e w!irligig) for Admiral 'emyss? su**essor in t!e naval *ommand in 4gypt was not *onsidered !elpful y t!e ot!er servi*es, t!oug! apparently !e treated t!em no worse t!an !e treated !is own su ordinates# A !ard tas&, of *ourse, to su**eed 'emyss# .n ,ort Sudan we saw two %ritis! offi*ers of t!e 4gyptian Army waiting to em ar& for "a eg!# (!ey were to *ommand t!e 4gyptian troops in $e>a+, and to do t!eir est to !elp A+i+ el Masri organi+e t!e Ara "egular :or*e w!i*! was going to end t!e war from "a eg!# (!is was my first meeting wit! /oy*e and Davenport, t!e two 4nglis!men to w!om t!e Ara *ause owed t!e greater part of its foreign de t of gratitude# /oy*e wor&ed for long eside me# 8f Davenport?s su**esses in t!e sout! we !eard y *onstant report# ;!artum felt *ool after Ara ia, and nerved me to s!ow Sir "eginald 'ingate my long reports written in t!ose days of waiting at 1en o# . urged t!at t!e situation seemed full of promise# (!e main need was s&illed assistan*e) and t!e *ampaign s!ould go prosperously if some regular %ritis! offi*ers, professionally *ompetent and spea&ing Ara i*, were atta*!ed to t!e Ara leaders as te*!ni*al advisers, to &eep us in proper tou*!# 'ingate was glad to !ear a !opeful view# (!e Ara "evolt !ad een !is dream for years# '!ile . was at ;!artum *!an*e gave !im t!e power to play t!e main part in it) for t!e wor&ings against Sir $enry M*Ma!on *ame to a !ead, were su**essful, and ended in !is re*all to 4ngland# Sir "eginald 'ingate was ordered down to 4gypt in !is stead# So after two or t!ree *omforta le days in ;!artum, resting and reading t!e #orte 10Arthur in t!e !ospita le pala*e, . went down towards Cairo, feeling t!at t!e responsi le person !ad all my news# (!e 0ile trip e*ame a !oliday# 4gypt was, as usual, in t!e t!roes of a "a eg! @uestion# Some aeroplanes were eing sent t!ere) and it was eing argued w!et!er to send a rigade of troops after t!em or not# (!e !ead of t!e :ren*! Military Mission at /idda, Colonel %remond B'ilson?s *ounterpart, ut wit! more aut!ority) for !e was a pra*tising lig!t in native warfare, a su**ess in :ren*! Afri*a, and an e3-*!ief of staff of a Corps on t!e SommeC strongly urged t!e landing of Allied for*es in $e>a+# (o tempt us !e !ad roug!t to Sue+ some artillery, some ma*!ine-guns, and some *avalry and infantry, all Algerian Moslem ran& and file, wit! :ren*! offi*ers# (!ese added to t!e %ritis! troops would give t!e for*e an international flavour# %remond?s spe*ious appre*iation of t!e danger of t!e state of affairs in Ara ia gained upon Sir "eginald# 'ingate was a %ritis! General, *ommander of a nominal e3peditionary for*e, t!e $e>a+ :or*e, w!i*! in reality *omprised a few liaison offi*ers and a !andful of storemen and instru*tors# .f %remond got !is way !e would e G#8#C# of a genuine rigade of mi3ed %ritis! and :ren*! troops, wit! all its pleasant ma*!inery of responsi ility and despat*!es, and its prospe*t of in*rement and offi*ial re*ognition# Conse@uently !e wrote a guarded despat*!, !alf-tending towards dire*t interferen*e# As my e3perien*e of Ara feeling in t!e $ar *ountry !ad given me strong opinions on t!e "a eg! @uestion Bindeed, most of my opinions were strongC, . wrote for General Clayton, to w!ose Ara %ureau . was now formally transferred, a violent memorandum on t!e w!ole su >e*t# Clayton was pleased wit! my view t!at t!e tri es mig!t defend "a eg! for mont!s if lent advi*e and guns, ut t!at t!ey would *ertainly s*atter to t!eir tents again as soon as t!ey !eard of t!e landing of foreigners in for*e# :urt!er, t!at t!e intervention-plans were te*!ni*ally unsound, for a rigade would e @uite

insuffi*ient to defend t!e position, to for id t!e neig! ouring water-supplies to t!e (ur&s, and to lo*& t!eir road towards Me**a# . a**used Colonel %remond of !aving motives of !is own, not military, nor ta&ing a**ount of Ara interests and of t!e importan*e of t!e revolt to us) and @uoted !is words and a*ts in $e>a+ as eviden*e against !im# (!ey gave >ust plausi le *olour to my *!arge# Clayton too& t!e memorandum to Sir Ar*!i ald Murray, w!o, li&ing its a*idity and for*e, promptly wired it all !ome to 2ondon as proof t!at t!e Ara e3perts as&ing t!is sa*rifi*e of valua le troops from !im were divided a out its wisdom and !onesty, even in t!eir own *amp# 2ondon as&ed for e3planations) and t!e atmosp!ere slowly *leared, t!oug! in a less a*ute form t!e "a eg! @uestion lingered for two mont!s more# My popularity wit! t!e Staff in 4gypt, due to t!e sudden !elp . !ad lent to Sir Ar*!i ald?s pre>udi*es, was novel and rat!er amusing# (!ey egan to e polite to me, and to say t!at . was o servant, wit! a pungent style, and *!ara*ter# (!ey pointed out !ow good of t!em it was to spare me to t!e Ara *ause in its diffi*ulties# . was sent for y t!e Commander-in-C!ief, ut on my way to !im was inter*epted y a waiting and agitated aide, and led first into t!e presen*e of t!e C!ief of Staff, General 2ynden %ell# (o su*! an e3tent !ad !e felt it !is duty to support Sir Ar*!i ald in !is w!imsies t!at people generally *onfounded t!e two as one enemy# So . was astonis!ed w!en, as . *ame in, !e >umped to !is feet, leaped forward, and gripped me y t!e s!oulder, !issing, ?0ow you?re not to frig!ten !im- don?t you forget w!at . sayA? My fa*e pro a ly s!owed ewilderment, for !is one eye turned land and !e made me sit down, and tal&ed ni*ely a out 83ford, and w!at fun undergrads !ad, and t!e interest of my report of life in :eisal?s ran&s, and !is !ope t!at . would go a*& t!ere to *arry on w!at . !ad so well egun, mi3ing t!ese amia ilities wit! remar&s of !ow nervous t!e Commander-in-C!ief was, and !ow worried a out everyt!ing, and t!e need t!ere was for me to give !im a reassuring pi*ture of affairs, and yet not a rosy pi*ture, sin*e t!ey *ould not afford e3*ursions eit!er way# . was !ugely amused, inwardly, and promised to e good, ut pointed out t!at my o >e*t was to se*ure t!e e3tra stores and arms and offi*ers t!e Ara s needed, and !ow for t!is end . must enlist t!e interest, and, if ne*essary Bfor . would sti*& at not!ing in t!e way of dutyC, even t!e e3*itement of t!e Commander-in-C!ief) w!ereupon General2ynden %ell too& me up, saying t!at supplies were !is part, and in t!em !e did everyt!ing wit!out referen*e, and !e t!oug!t !e mig!t at on*e, !ere and now, admit !is new determination to do all !e *ould for us# . t!in& !e &ept !is word and was fair to us t!ereafter# . was very soot!ing to !is *!ief#

,##- TW#. #penin/ the )rab #ffensive

&()PTE"S .+II T# ..+II
#y chiefs were astonished at such favourable news, but promised help, and meanwhile sent me back, much against my will, into Arabia. $ reached +eisal0s camp on the day the Turks carried the defences of .ebel Subh. by their so doing the entire basis of my confidence in a tribal war was destroyed. 2e havered for a while by 'enbo, hoping to retrieve the position! but the tribesmen proved to be useless for assault, and we saw that if the revolt was to endure we must invent a new plan of campaign at once. This was ha(ardous, as the promised "ritish military e%perts had not yet arrived. ,owever, we decided that to regain the initiative we must ignore the main body of the enemy, and concentrate far off on his railway flank. The first step towards this was to

move our base to 2 e&h! which we proceeded to do in the gran d manner.

&()PTE" .+II
Clayton a few days later told me to return to Ara ia and :eisal# (!is eing mu*! against my grain . urged my *omplete unfitness for t!e >o - said . !ated responsi ility--o viously t!e position of a *ons*ientious adviser would e responsi le--and t!at in all my 'e o >e*ts !ad een gladder to me t!an persons, and ideas t!an o >e*ts# So t!e duty of su**eeding wit! men, of disposing t!em to any purpose, would e dou ly !ard to me# (!ey were not my medium- . was not pra*tised in t!at te*!ni@ue# . was unli&e a soldier- !ated soldiering# 8f *ourse, . !ad read t!e usual oo&s Btoo many oo&sC, Clausewit+ and /omini, Ma!an and :o*!, !ad played at 0apoleon?s *ampaigns, wor&ed at $anni al?s ta*ti*s, and t!e wars of %elisarius, li&e any ot!er man at 83ford) ut . !ad never t!oug!t myself into t!e mind of a real *ommander *ompelled to fig!t a *ampaign of !is own# 2ast of all . reminded Clayton, relevantly, t!at t!e Sirdar !ad telegrap!ed to 2ondon for *ertain regular offi*ers *ompetent to dire*t t!e Ara war# (!e reply was t!at t!ey mig!t e mont!s arriving, and meanw!ile :eisal must e lin&ed to us, and !is needs promptly notified to 4gypt# So . !ad to go) leaving to ot!ers t!e Ara %ulletin . !ad founded, t!e maps . wis!ed to draw, and t!e file of t!e war*!anges of t!e (ur&is! Army, all fas*inating a*tivities in w!i*! my training !elped me) to ta&e up a role for w!i*! . felt no in*lination# As our revolt su**eeded, onloo&ers !ave praised its leaders!ip- ut e!ind t!e s*enes lay all t!e vi*es of amateur *ontrol, e3perimental *oun*ils, divisions, w!imsi*ality# My >ourney was to 1en o, now t!e spe*ial ase of :eisal?s army, w!ere Garland single-!anded was tea*!ing t!e S!erifians !ow to low up railways wit! dynamite, and !ow to &eep army stores in systemati* order# (!e first a*tivity was t!e etter# Garland was an en@uirer in p!ysi*s, and !ad years of pra*ti*al &nowledge of e3plosives# $e !ad !is own devi*es for mining trains and felling telegrap!s and *utting metals) and !is &nowledge of Ara i* and freedom from t!e t!eories of t!e ordinary sapper-s*!ool ena led !im to tea*! t!e art of demolition to unlettered %eduin in a @ui*& and ready way# $is pupils admired a man w!o was never at a loss# .n*identally !e taug!t me to e familiar wit! !ig! e3plosive# Sappers !andled it li&e a sa*rament, ut Garland would s!ovel a !andful of detonators into !is po*&et, wit! a string of primers, fuse, and fusees, and >ump gaily on !is *amel for a wee&?s ride to t!e $e>a+ "ailway# $is !ealt! was poor and t!e *limate made !im regularly ill# A wea& !eart trou led !im after any strenuous effort or *risis) ut !e treated t!ese trou les as freely as !e did detonators, and persisted till !e !ad derailed t!e first train and ro&en t!e first *ulvert in Ara ia# S!ortly afterwards !e died# (!ings in $e>a+ !ad *!anged a good deal in t!e elapsed mont!# ,ursuing !is former plan, :eisal !ad moved to 'adi 1en o, and was trying to ma&e safe !is rear efore going up to atta*& t!e railway in t!e grand manner# (o relieve !im of t!e urdensome $ar tri es, !is young !alf- rot!er Geid was on t!e way up from "a eg! to 'adi Safra, as a nominal su ordinate of S!erif Ali# (!e advan*ed $ar *lans were effi*iently !arrying t!e (ur&is! *ommuni*ations etween Medina and %ir A as# (!ey sent in to :eisal nearly every day a little *onvoy of *aptured *amels, or rifles pi*&ed up after an engagement, or prisoners, or deserters# "a eg!, s!a&en y t!e first appearan*e of (ur&is! aeroplanes on 0ovem er t!e sevent!, !ad een reassured y t!e arrival of a flig!t of four %ritis! aeroplanes, %#4# ma*!ines, under Ma>or "oss, w!o spo&e Ara i* so adeptly and was so splendid a leader t!at t!ere *ould e no two minds as to t!e wise dire*tion of !is !elp# More guns *ame in wee& y wee&, till t!ere were twenty-t!ree, mostly o solete, and of fourteen patterns# Ali !ad a out t!ree t!ousand Ara infantry) of w!om two t!ousand were regulars in &!a&i, under A+i+ el Masri# 'it! t!em were nine !undred *amel *orps, and t!ree !undred 4gyptian troops# :ren*! gunners were promised# S!erif A dulla !ad at last left Me**a, on 0ovem er t!e twelft!# A fortnig!t later !e was mu*! w!ere

!e !ad meant to e, sout!, east, and nort!-east of Medina, a le to *ut off its supplies from ;asim and ;uweit# A dulla !ad a out four t!ousand men wit! !im, ut only t!ree ma*!ine-guns, and ten ineffi*ient mountain guns *aptured at (aif and Me**a# Conse@uently !e was not strong enoug! to *arry out !is furt!er plan of a *on*erted atta*& on Medina wit! A!? and :eisal# $e *ould only lo*&ade it, and for t!is purpose posted !imself at $ena&iye!, a desert pla*e, eig!ty miles nort!-east of Medina, w!ere !e was too far away to e very useful# (!e matter of t!e stores in t!e 1en o ase was eing well andied# Garland !ad left t!e *!e*&ing and issuing of t!em to A d el ;ader, :eisal?s governor, w!o was systemati* and @ui*&# $is effi*ien*y was a great *omfort to us, sin*e it ena led us to &eep our attention on more a*tive t!ings# :eisal was organi+ing !is peasants, !is slaves, and !is paupers into formal attalions, an irregular imitation of t!e new model army of A+i+ at "a eg!# Garland !eld om ing *lasses, fired guns, repaired ma*!ineguns, w!eels, and !arness, and was armourer for t!em all# (!e feeling was usy and *onfident# :eisal, w!o !ad not yet a*ted on our reminders of t!e importan*e of 'e>!, was imagining an e3pedition of t!e /u!eina to ta&e it# Meanw!ile !e was in tou*! wit! t!e %illi, t!e numerous tri e wit! !ead@uarters in 'e>!, and !e !oped for support from t!em# (!eir paramount S!ei&!, Suleiman "ifada, was tempori+ing, eing really !ostile) for t!e (ur&s !ad made !im ,as!a and de*orated !im) ut !is *ousin $amid was in arms for t!e S!erif, and !ad >ust *aptured a gratifying little *aravan of seventy *amels on t!e way from 4l 9la, wit! stores for t!e (ur&is! garrison of 'e>!# As . was starting for ;!eif $ussein to press t!e 'e>! plan again on :eisal, news *ame in of a (ur&is! repulse near %ir i n $assani# A re*onnaissan*e of t!eir *avalry and *amel *orps !ad een pus!ed too far into t!e !ills, and t!e Ara s !ad *aug!t it and s*attered it# %etter and etter yet#

&()PTE" .+III
So . made a !appy start wit! my sponsor for t!e >ourney, S!erif A d el ;erim el %eidawi, !alf- rot!er of Mo!ammed, 4mir of t!e /u!eina, ut, to my astonis!ment, of pure A yssinian type# (!ey told me later t!at !is mot!er !ad een a slave-girl married y t!e old 4mir late in life# A d el ;erim was a man of middle !eig!t, t!in and *oal la*&, ut de onaire, twenty-si3 years old) t!oug! !e loo&ed less, and !ad only a tiny tuft of eard on !is s!arp *!in# $e was restless and a*tive, endowed wit! an easy, sala*ious !umour# $e !ated t!e (ur&s, w!o !ad despised !im for !is *olour BAra s !ad little *olourfeeling against Afri*ans- it was t!e .ndian w!o evo&ed t!eir ra*e-disli&eC, and was very merry and intimate wit! me# 'it! !im were t!ree or four of !is men, all well mounted) and we !ad a rapid >ourney, for A d el ;erim was a famous rider w!o too& pride in *overing !is stages at t!ree times t!e normal speed# .t was not my *amel, and t!e weat!er was *ool and *louded, wit! a taste of rain# So . !ad no o >e*tion# After starting, we *antered for t!ree un ro&en !ours# (!at !ad s!a&en down our ellies far enoug! for us to !old more food, and we stopped and ate read and dran& *offee till sunset, w!ile A d el ;erim rolled a out !is *arpet in a dog-fig!t wit! one of t!e men# '!en !e was e3!austed !e sat up) and t!ey told stories and >aped, till t!ey were reat!ed enoug! to get up and dan*e# 4veryt!ing was very free, very good-tempered, and not at all dignified# '!en we re-started, an !our?s mad ra*e in t!e dus& roug!t us to t!e end of t!e (e!ama, and to t!e foot of a low range of ro*& and sand# A mont! ago, *oming from $amra, we !ad passed sout! of t!isnow we *rossed it, going up 'adi Agida, a narrow, winding, sandy valley etween t!e !ills# %e*ause it !ad run in flood a few days earlier, t!e going was firm for our panting *amels) ut t!e as*ent was steep and we !ad to ta&e it at wal&ing pa*e# (!is pleased me, ut so angered A d el ;erim, t!at w!en, in a s!ort !our, we rea*!ed t!e waters!ed !e t!rust !is mount forward again and led us at rea&-ne*& speed down !ill in t!e yielding nig!t Ba fair road, fortunately, wit! sand and pe les underfootC for !alf an !our, w!en t!e land flattened out, and we *ame to t!e outlying plantations of 0a&!l Mu ara&, *!ief date-gardens of t!e sout!ern /u!eina# As we got near we saw t!roug! t!e palm-trees flame, and t!e flame-lit smo&e of many fires, w!ile t!e

!ollow ground re-e*!oed wit! t!e roaring of t!ousands of e3*ited *amels, and volleying of s!ots or s!outings in t!e dar&ness of lost men, w!o soug!t t!roug! t!e *rowd to re>oin t!eir friends# As we !ad !eard in 1en o t!at t!e 0a&!l were deserted, t!is tumult meant somet!ing strange, per!aps !ostile# 'e *rept @uietly past an end of t!e grove and along a narrow street etween man-!ig! mud walls, to a silent group of !ouses# A d el ;erim for*ed t!e *ourtyard door of t!e first on our left, led t!e *amels wit!in, and !o led t!em down y t!e walls t!at t!ey mig!t remain unseen# (!en !e slipped a *artridge into t!e ree*! of !is rifle and stole off on tiptoe down t!e street towards t!e noise to find out w!at was !appening# 'e waited for !im, t!e sweat of t!e ride slowly drying in our *lot!es as we sat t!ere in t!e *!ill nig!t, wat*!ing# $e *ame a*& after !alf an !our to say t!at :eisal wit! !is *amel *orps !ad >ust arrived, and we were to go down and >oin !im# So we led t!e *amels out and mounted) and rode in file down anot!er lane on a an& etween !ouses, wit! a sun& garden of palms on our rig!t# .ts end was filled wit! a solid *rowd of Ara s and *amels, mi3ed toget!er in t!e wildest *onfusion, and all *rying aloud# 'e pressed t!roug! t!em, and down a ramp suddenly into t!e ed of 'adi 1en o, a road, open spa*e- !ow road *ould only e guessed from t!e irregular lines of wat*!-fires glimmering over it to a great distan*e# Also it was very damp) wit! slime, t!e reli* of a s!allow flood two days efore, yet *overing its stones# 8ur *amels found it slippery under foot and egan to move timidly# 'e !ad no opportunity to noti*e t!is, or indeed anyt!ing, >ust now, e3*ept t!e mass of :eisal?s army, filling t!e valley from side to side# (!ere were !undreds of fires of t!orn-wood, and round t!em were Ara s ma&ing *offee or eating, or sleeping muffled li&e dead men in t!eir *loa&s, pa*&ed toget!er *losely in t!e *onfusion of *amels# So many *amels in *ompany made a mess indes*ri a le, *ou*!ed as t!ey were or tied down all over t!e *amping ground, wit! more ever *oming in, and t!e old ones leaping up on t!ree legs to >oin t!em, roaring wit! !unger and agitation# ,atrols were going out, *aravans eing unloaded, and do+ens of 4gyptian mules u*&ing angrily over t!e middle of t!e s*ene# 'e ploug!ed our way t!roug! t!is din, and in an island of *alm at t!e very *entre of t!e valley ed found S!erif :eisal# 'e !alted our *amels y !is side# 8n !is *arpet, spread arely over t!e stones, !e was sitting etween S!erif S!arraf, t!e ;aimma&am ot! of t!e .maret and of (aif, !is *ousin, and Maulud, t!e rugged, slas!ing old Mesopotamian patriot, now a*ting as !is A#D#C# .n front of !im &nelt a se*retary ta&ing down an order, and eyond !im anot!er reading reports aloud y t!e lig!t of a silvered lamp w!i*! a slave was !olding# (!e nig!t was windless, t!e air !eavy, and t!e uns!ielded flame poised t!ere stiff and straig!t# :eisal, @uiet as ever, wel*omed me wit! a smile until !e *ould finis! !is di*tation# After it !e apologi+ed for my disorderly re*eption, and waved t!e slaves a*& to give us priva*y# As t!ey retired wit! t!e onloo&ers, a wild *amel leaped into t!e open spa*e in front of us, plunging and trumpeting# Maulud das!ed at its !ead to drag it away) ut it dragged !im instead) and, its load of grass ropes for *amel fodder *oming untied, t!ere poured down over t!e ta*iturn S!arraf, t!e lamp, and myself, an avalan*!e of !ay# ?God e praised,? said :eisal gravely, ?t!at it was neit!er utter nor ags of gold#? (!en !e e3plained to me w!at une3pe*ted t!ings !ad !appened in t!e last twenty-four !ours on t!e attle front# (!e (ur&s !ad slipped round t!e !ead of t!e Ara arrier for*es in 'adi Safra y a side road in t!e !ills, and !ad *ut t!eir retreat# (!e $ar , in a pani*, !ad melted into t!e ravines on ea*! side, and es*aped t!roug! t!em in parties of twos and t!rees, an3ious for t!eir t!reatened families# (!e (ur&is! mounted men poured down t!e empty valley and over t!e D!ifran ,ass to %ir Said, w!ere G!ali %ey, t!eir *ommander, nearly *aug!t t!e unsuspe*ting Geid asleep in !is tent# $owever, warning *ame >ust in time# 'it! t!e !elp of S!erif A dulla i n (!awa , an old $arit! *ampaigner, 4mir Geid !eld up t!e enemy atta*& for long enoug! to get some of !is tents and aggage pa*&ed on *amels and driven away# (!en !e es*aped !imself) ut !is for*e melted into a loose mo of fugitives riding wildly t!roug! t!e nig!t towards 1en o# (!ere y t!e road to 1en o was laid open to t!e (ur&s, and :eisal !ad rus!ed down !ere only an !our efore our arrival, wit! five t!ousand men, to prote*t !is ase until somet!ing properly defensive

*ould e arranged# $is spy system was rea&ing down- t!e $ar , !aving lost t!eir wits in t!e dar&ness, were ringing in wild and *ontradi*tory reports from one side and anot!er a out t!e strengt! of t!e (ur&s and t!eir movements and intention# $e !ad no idea w!et!er t!ey would stri&e at 1en o or e *ontent wit! !olding t!e passes from 'adi 1en o into 'adi Safra w!ile t!ey t!rew t!e ul& of t!eir for*es down t!e *oast towards "a eg! and Me**a# (!e situation would e serious eit!er way- t!e est t!at *ould !appen would e if :eisal?s presen*e !ere attra*ted t!em, and *aused t!em to lose more days trying to *at*! !is field army w!ile we strengt!ened 1en o# Meanw!ile, !e was doing all !e *ould, @uite *!eerfully) so . sat down and listened to t!e news) or to t!e petitions, *omplaints and diffi*ulties eing roug!t in and settled y !im summarily# S!arraf eside me wor&ed a usy toot!-sti*& a*& and forward along !is gleaming >aws, spea&ing only on*e or twi*e an !our, in reproof of too-urgent suitors# Maulud ever and again leaned over to me, round :eisal?s neutral ody, eagerly repeating for our >oint enefit any word of a report w!i*! mig!t e turned to favour t!e laun*!ing of an instant and formal *ounter-atta*&# (!is lasted till !alf-past four in t!e morning# .t grew very *old as t!e damp of t!e valley rose t!roug! t!e *arpet and soa&ed our *lot!es# (!e *amp gradually stilled as t!e tired men and animals went one y one to sleep) a w!ite mist *olle*ted softly over t!em and in it t!e fires e*ame slow pillars of smo&e# .mmediately e!ind us, rising out of t!e ed of mist, /e el "ud!wa, more steep and rugged t!an ever, was roug!t so *lose y t!e !us!ed moonl ig!t t!at it seemed !anging over our !eads# :eisal at last finis!ed t!e urgent wor&# 'e ate !alf-a-do+en dates, a frigid *omfort, and *urled up on t!e wet *arpet# As . lay t!ere in a s!iver, . saw t!e %ias!a guards *reep up and spread t!eir *loa&s gently over :eisal, w!en t!ey were sure t!at !e was sleeping# An !our later we got up stiffly in t!e false dawn Btoo *old to go on pretending and lying downC and t!e slaves lit a fire of palm-ri s to warm us, w!ile S!arraf and myself sear*!ed for food and fuel enoug! for t!e moment# Messengers were still *oming in from all sides wit! evil rumours of an immediate atta*&) and t!e *amp was not far off pani*# So :eisal de*ided to move to anot!er position, partly e*ause we s!ould e was!ed out of t!is one if it rained anyw!ere in t!e !ills, and partly to o**upy !is men?s minds and wor& off t!eir restlessness# '!en !is drums egan to eat, t!e *amels were loaded !urriedly# After t!e se*ond signal everyone leaped into t!e saddle and drew off to left or rig!t, leaving a road lane up w!i*! :eisal rode, on !is mare, wit! S!arraf a pa*e e!ind !im, and t!en Ali, t!e standard- earer, a splendid wild man from 0e>d, wit! !is !aw&?s fa*e framed in long plaits of >et- la*& !air falling downward from !is temples# Ali was dressed garis!ly, and rode a tall *amel# %e!ind !im were all t!e mo of s!erifs and s!ei&!s and slaves--and myself--pell-mell# (!ere were eig!t !undred in t!e odyguard t!at morning# :eisal rode up and down loo&ing for a pla*e to *amp, and at last stopped on t!e furt!er side of a little open valley >ust nort! of 0a&!l Mu ara& village) t!oug! t!e !ouses were so uried in t!e trees t!at few of t!em *ould e seen from outside# 8n t!e sout! an& of t!is valley, eneat! some ro*&y &nolls, :eisal pit*!ed !is two plain tents# S!arraf !ad !is personal tent also) and some of t!e ot!er *!iefs *ame and lived y us# (!e guard put up t!eir oot!s and s!elters) and t!e 4gyptian gunners !alted lower down on our side, and dressed t!eir twenty tents eautifully in line, to loo& very military# So in a little w!ile we were populous, if !ardly imposing in detail#

&()PTE" .I.
'e stayed !ere two days, most of w!i*! . spent in :eisal?s *ompany, and so got a deeper e3perien*e of !is met!od of *ommand, at an interesting season w!en t!e morale of !is men was suffering !eavily from t!e s*are reports roug!t in, and from t!e defe*tion of t!e 0ort!ern $ar # :eisal, fig!ting to ma&e up t!eir lost spirits, did it most surely y lending of !is own to everyone wit!in rea*!# $e was a**essi le to all w!o stood outside !is tent and waited for noti*e) and !e never *ut s!ort petitions, even w!en men *ame in *!orus wit! t!eir grief in a song of many verses, and sang t!em around us in t!e dar&# $e listened always, and, if !e did not settle t!e *ase !imself, *alled S!arraf or :ai+ to

arrange it for !im# (!is e3treme patien*e was a furt!er lesson to me of w!at native !eads!ip in Ara ia meant# $is self-*ontrol seemed e@ually great# '!en Mir+u& el (i&!eimi, !is guest-master, *ame in from Geid to e3plain t!e s!ameful story of t!eir rout, :eisal >ust laug!ed at !im in pu li* and sent !im aside to wait w!ile !e saw t!e s!ei&!s of t!e $ar and t!e Ageyl w!ose *arelessness !ad een mainly responsi le for t!e disaster# (!ese !e rallied gently, *!affing t!em for !aving done t!is or t!at, for !aving infli*ted su*! losses, or lost so mu*!# (!en !e *alled a*& Mir+u& and lowered t!e tent-flap- a sign t!at t!ere was private usiness to e done# . t!oug!t of t!e meaning of :eisal?s name Bt!e sword flas!ing downward in t!e stro&eC and feared a s*ene, ut !e made room for Mir+u& on !is *arpet, and said, ?ComeA tell us more of your ?nig!ts? and marvels of t!e attle- amuse us#? Mir+u&, a goodloo&ing, *lever lad Ba little too s!arp-featuredC falling into t!e spirit of t!e t!ing, egan, in !is road, Atei i twang, to draw for us word-pi*tures of young Geid in flig!t) of t!e terror of . n (!awa , t!at famous rigand) and, ultimate disgra*e, of !ow t!e venera le el $ussein, fat!er of S!erif Ali, t!e $arit!i, !ad lost !is *offee-potsA :eisal, in spea&ing, !ad a ri*! musi*al voi*e, and used it *arefully upon !is men# (o t!em !e tal&ed in tri al diale*t, ut wit! a *urious, !esitant manner, as t!oug! faltering painfully among p!rases, loo&ing inward for t!e >ust word# $is t!oug!t, per!aps, moved only y a little in front of !is spee*!, for t!e p!rases at last *!osen were usually t!e simplest, w!i*! gave an effe*t emotional and sin*ere# .t seemed possi le, so t!in was t!e s*reen of words, to see t!e pure and t!e very rave spirit s!ining out# At ot!er times !e was full of !umour--t!at invaria le magnet of Ara goodwill# $e spo&e one nig!t to t!e "ifaa s!ei&!s w!en !e sent t!em forward to o**upy t!e plain t!is side of %ir el :agir, a tangled *ountry of a*a*ia and tamaris& t!i*&ets on t!e imper*epti le waters!ed of t!e long depression uniting %ru&a and %ir Said# $e told t!em gently t!at t!e (ur&s were *oming on, and t!at it was t!eir duty to !old t!em up and give God t!e *redit of t!eir vi*tory) adding t!at t!is would e*ome impossi le if t!ey went to sleep# (!e old men--and in Ara ia elders mattered more t!an yout!s-- ro&e out into delig!ted spee*!, and, after saying t!at God would give !im a vi*tory, or rat!er two vi*tories, *apped t!eir wis!es wit! a prayer t!at !is life mig!t e prolonged in t!e a**umulation of an unpre*edented num er of vi*tories# '!at was etter, t!ey &ept effe*tive wat*! all nig!t, in t!e strengt! of !is e3!ortation# (!e routine of our life in *amp was simple# /ust efore day rea& t!e army .mam used to *lim to t!e !ead of t!e little !ill a ove t!e sleeping army, and t!en*e utter an astounding *all to prayer# $is voi*e was !ars! and very powerful, and t!e !ollow, li&e a sounding- oard, t!rew e*!oes at t!e !ills w!i*! returned t!em wit! indignant interest# 'e were effe*tually roused, w!et!er we prayed or *ursed# As soon as !e ended, :eisal?s .mam *ried gently and musi*ally from >ust outside t!e tent# .n a minute, one of :eisal?s five slaves Ball freed men, ut refusing dis*!arge till it was t!eir pleasure- sin*e it was good and not unprofita le to e my lord?s servantC *ame round to S!arraf and myself wit! sweetened *offee# Sugar for t!e first *up in t!e *!ill of dawn was *onsidered fit# An !our or so later, t!e flap of :eisal?s sleeping tent would e t!rown a*&- !is invitation to *allers from t!e !ouse!old# (!ere would e four or five present) and after t!e morning?s news a tray of rea&fast would e *arried in# (!e staple of t!is was dates in 'adi 1en o) sometimes :eisal?s Cir*assian grandmot!er would send !im a o3 of !er famous spi*ed *a&es from Me**a) and sometimes $e>ris, t!e ody slave, would give us odd is*uits and *ereals of !is own trying# After rea&fast we would play wit! itter *offee and sweet tea in alternation, w!ile :eisal?s *orresponden*e was dealt wit! y di*tation to !is se*retaries# 8ne of t!ese was :ai+ el G!usein t!e adventurous) anot!er was t!e .mam, a sad-fa*ed person made *onspi*uous in t!e army y t!e aggy um rella !anging from !is saddle- ow# 8**asionally a man was given private audien*e at t!is !our, ut seldom) as t!e sleeping tent was stri*tly for t!e S!erif s own use# .t was an ordinary ell tent, furnis!ed wit! *igarettes, a *amp- ed, a fairly good ;urd rug, a poor S!ira+i, and t!e delig!tful old %alu*! prayer-*arpet on w!i*! !e prayed# At a out eig!t o?*lo*& in t!e morning, :eisal would u*&le on !is *eremonial dagger and wal& a*ross

to t!e re*eption tent, w!i*! was floored wit! two !orri le &ilims# :eisal would sit down at t!e end of t!e tent fa*ing t!e open side, and we wit! our a*&s against t!e wall, in a semi*ir*le out from !im# (!e slaves roug!t up t!e rear, and *lustered round t!e open wall of t!e tent to *ontrol t!e esetting suppliants w!o lay on t!e sand in t!e tent-mout!, or eyond, waiting t!eir turn# .f possi le, usiness was got t!roug! y noon, w!en t!e 4mir li&ed to rise# 'e of t!e !ouse!old, and any guests, t!en reassem led in t!e living tent) and $e>ris and Salem *arried in t!e lun*!eon tray, on w!i*! were as many dis!es as *ir*umstan*es permitted# :eisal was an inordinate smo&er, ut a very lig!t eater, and !e used to ma&e- elieve wit! !is fingers or a spoon among t!e eans, lentils, spina*!, ri*e, and sweet *a&es till !e >udged t!at we !ad !ad enoug!, w!en at a wave of !is !and t!e tray would disappear, as ot!er slaves wal&ed forward to pour water for our fingers at t!e tent door# :at men, li&e Mo!ammed . n S!efia, made a *omi* grievan*e of t!e 4mir?s @ui*& and deli*ate meals, and would !ave food of t!eir own prepared for t!em w!en t!ey *ame away# After lun*! we would tal& a little, w!ile su*&ing up two *ups of *offee, and savouring two glasses full of syrup-li&e green tea# (!en till two in t!e afternoon t!e *urtain of t!e living tent was down, signifying t!at :eisal was sleeping, or reading, or doing private usiness# Afterwards !e would sit again in t!e re*eption tent till !e !ad finis!ed wit! all w!o wanted !im# . never saw an Ara leave !im dissatisfied or !urt--a tri ute to !is ta*t and to !is memory) for !e seemed never to !alt for loss of a fa*t, nor to stum le over a relations!ip# .f t!ere were time after se*ond audien*e, !e would wal& wit! !is friends, tal&ing of !orses or plants, loo&ing at *amels, or as&ing someone t!e names of t!e visi le land features# (!e sunset prayer was at times pu li*, t!oug! :eisal was not outwardly very pious# After it !e saw people individually in t!e living tent, planning t!e nig!t?s re*onnaissan*es and patrols--for most of t!e field-wor& was done after dar&# %etween si3 and seven t!ere was roug!t in t!e evening meal, to w!i*! all present in !ead@uarters were *alled y t!e slaves# .t resem led t!e lun*!, e3*ept t!e *u es of oiled mutton were sorted t!roug! t!e great tray of ri*e, medfa el suhur, t!e mainstay of appetite# 'e o served silen*e till all !ad eaten# (!is meal ended our day, save for t!e stealt!y offering y a arefooted slave of a tray of tea-glasses at protra*ted intervals# :eisal did not sleep till very late, and never etrayed a wis! to !asten our going# .n t!e evening !e rela3ed as far as possi le and avoided avoida le wor&# $e would send out for some lo*al s!ei&! to tell stories of t!e distri*t, and !istories of t!e tri e and its genealogy) or t!e tri al poets would sing us t!eir war narratives- long traditional forms wit! sto*& epit!ets, sto*& sentiments, sto*& in*idents grafted afres! on t!e efforts of ea*! generation# :eisal was passionately fond of Ara i* poetry, and would often provo&e re*itations, >udging and rewarding t!e est verses of t!e nig!t# <ery rarely !e would play *!ess, wit! t!e unt!in&ing dire*tness of a fen*er, and rilliantly# Sometimes, per!aps for my enefit, !e told stories of w!at !e !ad seen in Syria, and s*raps of (ur&is! se*ret !istory, or family affairs# . learned mu*! of t!e men and parties in t!e $e>a+ from !is lips#

&()PTE" ..
Suddenly :eisal as&ed me if . would wear Ara *lot!es li&e !is own w!ile in t!e *amp# . s!ould find it etter for my own part, sin*e it was a *omforta le dress in w!i*! to live Ara -fas!ion as we must do# %esides, t!e tri esmen would t!en understand !ow to ta&e me# (!e only wearers of &!a&i in t!eir e3perien*e !ad een (ur&is! offi*ers, efore w!om t!ey too& up an instin*tive defen*e# .f . wore Me**an *lot!es, t!ey would e!ave to me as t!oug! . were really one of t!e leaders) and . mig!t slip in and out of :eisal?s tent wit!out ma&ing a sensation w!i*! !e !ad to e3plain away ea*! time to strangers# . agreed at on*e, very gladly) for army uniform was a omina le w!en *amel-riding or w!en sitting a out on t!e ground) and t!e Ara t!ings, w!i*! . !ad learned to manage efore t!e war, were *leaner and more de*ent in t!e desert# $e>ris was pleased, too, and e3er*ised !is fan*y in fitting me out in splendid w!ite sil& and gold-em roidered wedding garments w!i*! !ad een sent to :eisal lately Bwas it a !intJC y !is great-aunt in Me**a# . too& a stroll in t!e new looseness of t!em round t!e palm-gardens of Mu ara& and %ru&a, to a**ustom myself to t!eir feel#

(!ese villages were pleasant little pla*es, uilt of mud ri*& on t!e !ig! eart! mounds en*ir*ling t!e palm-gardens# 0a&!l Mu ara& lay to t!e nort!, and %ru&a >ust sout! of it a*ross a t!orny valley# (!e !ouses were small, mud-was!ed inside, *ool, and very *lean, furnis!ed wit! a mat or two, a *offee mortar, and food pots and trays# (!e narrow streets were s!aded y an o**asional well-grown tree# (!e eart! em an&ments round t!e *ultivated areas were sometimes fifty feet in !eig!t, and !ad een for t!e most part artifi*ially formed from t!e surplus eart! dug out etween t!e trees, from !ouse!old ru is! and from stones gat!ered out of t!e 'adi# (!e an&s were to defend t!e *rops from flood# 'adi 1en o ot!erwise would soon !ave filled t!e gardens, sin*e t!ese, to e irriga le, must e elow t!e valley floor# (!e narrow plots were divided y fen*es of palm-ri s or y mud walls, wit! narrow streams of sweet water in raised *!annels round t!em# 4a*! garden gate was over water, wit! a ridge of t!ree or four parallel palm-logs uilt up to it for t!e passage of don&eys or *amels# 4a*! plot !ad a mud slui*e, s*ooped away w!en its turn for watering *ame# (!e palms, regularly planted in ordered lines and well *ared for, were t!e main *rop) ut etween t!em were grown arley, radis!es, marrows, *u*um ers, to a**o and !enna# <illages !ig!er up 'adi 1en o were *ool enoug! to grow grapes# :eisal?s stand in 0a&!l Mu ara& *ould in t!e nature of t!ings only e a pause, and . felt t!at . !ad etter get a*& to 1en o, to t!in& seriously a out our amp!i ious defen*e of t!is port, t!e 0avy !aving promised its every !elp# 'e settled t!at . s!ould *onsult Geid, and a*t wit! !im as seemed est# :eisal gave me a magnifi*ent ay *amel for t!e trip a*&# 'e mar*!ed t!roug! t!e Agida !ills y a new road, 'adi Messari!, e*ause of a s*are of (ur&is! patrols on t!e more dire*t line# %edr i n S!efia was wit! me) and we did t!e distan*e gently in a single stage of si3 !ours, getting to 1en o efore dawn# %eing tired after t!ree strenuous days of little sleep among *onstant alarms and e3*itements . went straig!t to Garland?s empty !ouse B!e was living on oard s!ip in t!e !ar ourC and fell asleep on a en*!) ut afterwards . was *alled out again y t!e news t!at S!erif Geid was *oming, and went down to t!e walls to see t!e eaten for*e ride in# (!ere were a out eig!t !undred of t!em, @uiet, ut in no ot!er way mortified y t!eir s!ame# Geid !imself seemed finely indifferent# As !e entered t!e town !e turned and *ried to A d el ;adir, t!e Governor, riding e!ind !im, '!y, your town is ruinousA . must telegrap! to my fat!er for forty masons to repair t!e pu li* uildings#? And t!is a*tually !e did# . !ad telegrap!ed to Captain %oyle t!at 1en o was gravely t!reatened, and %oyle at on*e replied t!at !is fleet would e t!ere in time, if not sooner# (!is readiness was an opportune *onsolation- worse news *ame along ne3t day# (!e (ur&s, y t!rowing a strong for*e forward from %ir Said against 0a&!l Mu ara&, !ad *losed wit! :eisal?s levies w!ile t!ey were yet unsteady# After a s!ort fig!t, :eisal !ad ro&en off, yielded !is ground, and was retreating !ere# 8ur war seemed entering its last a*t# . too& my *amera, and from t!e parapet of t!e Medina gate got a fine p!otograp! of t!e rot!ers *oming in# :eisal !ad nearly two t!ousand men wit! !im, ut none of t!e /u!eina tri esmen# .t loo&ed li&e trea*!ery and a real defe*tion of t!e tri es, t!ings w!i*! ot! of us !ad ruled out of *ourt as impossi le# . *alled at on*e at !is !ouse and !e told me t!e !istory# (!e (ur&s !ad *ome on wit! t!ree attalions and a num er of mule-mounted infantry and *amelry# (!eir *ommand was in t!e !ands of G!ali %ey, w!o !andled !is troops wit! great &eenness, a*ting as !e did under t!e eye of t!e Corps Commander# :a&!ru ,as!a privately a**ompanied t!e e3pedition, w!ose guide and go- etween wit! t!e Ara s was Da&!il-Alla! el ;ad!i, t!e !ereditary law-giver of t!e /u!eina, a rival of S!erif Mo!ammed Ali el %eidawi, and after !im t!e se*ond man in t!e tri e# (!ey got a*ross 'adi 1en o to t!e groves of %ru&a in t!eir first onset, and t!us t!reatened t!e Ara *ommuni*ations wit! 1en o# (!ey were also a le to s!ell 0a&!l Mu ara& freely wit! t!eir seven guns# :eisal was not a w!it dismayed, ut t!rew out t!e /u!eina on !is left to wor& down t!e great valley# $is *entre and rig!t !e &ept in 0a&!l Mu ara&, and !e sent t!e 4gyptian artillery to ta&e post in /e el Agida, to deny t!at to t!e (ur&s# (!en !e opened fire on %ru&a wit! !is own two fifteenpounders# "asim, a Syrian offi*er, formerly a attery *ommander in t!e (ur&is! Army, was fig!ting t!ese two

guns) and !e made a great demonstration wit! t!em# (!ey !ad een sent down as a gift from 4gypt, any!ow, old ru is! t!oug!t servi*ea le for t!e wild Ara s, >ust as t!e si3ty t!ousand rifles supplied t!e S!erif were *ondemned weapons, reli*s of t!e Gallipoli *ampaign# So "asim !ad no sig!ts, nor range-finder, no range ta les, no !ig! e3plosive# $is distan*e mig!t !ave een si3 t!ousand yards) ut t!e fuses of !is s!rapnel were %oer 'ar anti@uities, full of green mould, and, if t!ey urst, it was sometimes s!ort in t!e air, and sometimes gra+ing# $owever, !e !ad no means of getting !is ammunition away if t!ings went wrong, so !e la+ed off at speed, s!outing wit! laug!ter at t!is fas!ion of ma&ing war) and t!e tri esmen seeing t!e *ommandant so merry too& !eart of gra*e t!emselves# ?%y God,? said one, ?t!ose are t!e real guns- t!e .mportan*e of t!eir noiseA? "asim swore t!at t!e (ur&s were dying in !eaps) and t!e Ara s *!arged forward warmly, at !is word# (!ings were going well) and :eisal !ad t!e !ope of a de*isive su**ess w!en suddenly !is left wing in t!e valley wavered, !alted) finally it turned its a*& on t!e enemy and retired tumultuously to t!e *amping ground# :eisal, in t!e *entre, galloped to "asim and *ried t!at t!e /u!eina !ad ro&en and !e was to save t!e guns# "asim yo&ed up t!e teams and trotted away to 'adi Agida, w!erein t!e 4gyptians were ta&ing *ounsel avidly wit! one anot!er# After !im streamed t!e Ageyl and t!e At an, t!e men of . n S!efia, t!e $ar and %ias!a# :eisal and !is !ouse!old *omposed t!e rear, and in deli erate pro*ession t!ey moved down towards 1en o, leaving t!e /u!eina wit! t!e (ur&s on t!e attlefield# As . was still !earing of t!is sad end, and *ursing wit! !im t!e traitor %eidawi rot!ers, t!ere was a stir a out t!e door, and A d el ;erim ro&e t!roug! t!e slaves, swung up to t!e dais, &issed :eisal?s !ead-rope in salutation, and sat down eside us# :eisal wit! a gasping stare at !im said, ?$owJ? and A d el ;erim e3plained t!eir dismay at t!e sudden flig!t of :eisal, and !ow !e wit! !is rot!er and t!eir gallant men !ad foug!t t!e (ur&s for t!e w!ole nig!t, alone, wit!out artillery, till t!e palmgroves e*ame untena le and t!ey too !ad een driven t!roug! 'adi Agida# $is rot!er, wit! !alf t!e man!ood of t!e tri e, was >ust entering t!e gate# (!e ot!ers !ad fallen a*& up 'adi 1en o for water# ?And w!y did you retire to t!e *amp-ground e!ind us during t!e attleJ? as&ed :eisal# ?8nly to ma&e ourselves a *up of *offee,? said A d el ;erim# 'e !ad foug!t from sunrise and it was dus&- we were very tired and t!irsty#? :eisal and . lay a*& and laug!ed- t!en we went to see w!at *ould e done to save t!e town# (!e first step was simple# 'e sent all t!e /u!eina a*& to 'adi 1en o wit! orders to mass at ;!eif, and &eep up a steady pressure on t!e (ur&is! line of *ommuni*ations# (!ey were also to pus! sniping parties down t!e Agida !ills# (!is diversion would !old up so many of t!e (ur&s t!at t!ey would e una le to ring against 1en o a for*e superior in num er to t!e defenders, w!o in addition !ad t!e advantage of a good position# (!e town on t!e top of its flat reef of *oral rose per!aps twenty feet a ove t!e sea, and was *ompassed y water on two sides# (!e ot!er two sides loo&ed over flat stret*!es of sand, soft in pla*es, destitute of *over for miles, and wit! no fres! water upon t!em anyw!ere# .n daylig!t, if defended y artillery and ma*!ine-gun fire, t!ey s!ould e impregna le# (!e artillery was arriving every minute) for %oyle, as usual far etter t!an !is word, !ad *on*entrated five s!ips on us in less t!an twenty-four !ours# $e put t!e monitor M#K1, w!ose s!allow draug!t fitted !er for t!e >o , in t!e end of t!e sout!-eastern *ree& of t!e !ar our, w!en*e s!e *ould ra&e t!e pro a le dire*tion of a (ur&is! advan*e wit! !er si3-in*! guns# Cro*&er, !er *aptain, was very an3ious to let off t!ose it*!ing guns# (!e larger s!ips were moored to fire over t!e town at longer range, or to ra&e t!e ot!er flan& from t!e nort!ern !ar our# (!e sear*!lig!ts of 1ufferin and M#K1 *rossed on t!e plain eyond t!e town# (!e Ara s, delig!ted to *ount up t!e @uantity of vessels in t!e !ar our, were prepared to *ontri ute t!eir part to t!e nig!t?s entertainment# (!ey gave us good !ope t!ere would e no furt!er pani*- ut to reassure t!em fully t!ey needed some sort of rampart to defend, mediaeval fas!ion- it was no good digging tren*!es, partly e*ause t!e ground was *oral ro*&, and, esides, t!ey !ad no e3perien*e of

tren*!es and mig!t not !ave manned t!em *onfidently# So we too& t!e *rum ling, salt-riddled wall of t!e pla*e, dou led it wit! a se*ond, pa*&ed eart! etween t!e two, and raised t!em till our si3teent!*entury astions were rifle-proof at least, and pro a ly proof against t!e (ur&is! mountain guns# 8utside t!e astions we put ar ed wire, festooned etween *isterns on t!e rain *at*!ments eyond t!e walls# 'e dug in ma*!ine-gun nests in t!e est angles, and manned t!em wit! :eisal?s regular gunners# (!e 4gyptians, li&e everyone else given a pla*e in t!e s*!eme, were gratifyingly !appy# Garland was engineer-in-*!ief and *!ief adviser# After sun-down t!e town @uivered wit! suppressed e3*itement# So long as t!e day lasted t!ere !ad een s!outs and >oy-s!ots and wild ursts of fren+y among t!e wor&men) ut w!en dar& *ame t!ey went a*& to feed and a !us! fell# 0early everyone sat up t!at nig!t# (!ere was one alarm a out eleven o?*lo*&# 8ur outposts !ad met t!e enemy only t!ree miles outside t!e town# Garland, wit! a *rier, went t!roug! t!e few streets, and *alled t!e garrison# (!ey tum led straig!t out and went to t!eir pla*es in dead silen*e wit!out a s!ot or a loose s!out# (!e seamen on t!e minaret sent warning to t!e s!ips, w!ose *om ined sear*!lig!ts egan slowly to traverse t!e plain in *omple3 interse*tions, drawing pen*ils of w!eeling lig!t a*ross t!e flats w!i*! t!e atta*&ing for*e must *ross# $owever, no sign was made and no *ause given us to open fire# Afterwards, old Da&!il Alla! told me !e !ad guided t!e (ur&s down to rus! 1en o in t!e dar& t!at t!ey mig!t stamp out :eisal?s army on*e for all) ut t!eir !earts !ad failed t!em at t!e silen*e and t!e la+e of lig!ted s!ips from end to end of t!e !ar our, wit! t!e eerie eams of t!e sear*!lig!ts revealing t!e lea&ness of t!e gla*is t!ey would !ave to *ross# So t!ey turned a*&- and t!at nig!t, . elieve, t!e (ur&s lost t!eir war# ,ersonally, . was on t!e Suva, to e undistur ed, and sleeping splendidly at last) so . was grateful to Da&!il Alla! for t!e pruden*e w!i*! !e prea*!ed t!e (ur&s, as t!oug! we mig!t per!aps !ave won a glorious vi*tory, . was ready to give mu*! more for >ust t!at eig!t !ours? un ro&en rest#

&()PTE" ..I
0e3t day t!e *risis !ad passed- t!e (ur&s !ad *learly failed# (!e /u!eina were a*tive in t!eir flan& position from 'adi 1en o# Garland?s ar*!ite*tural efforts a out t!e town e*ame impressive# Sir Ar*!i ald Murray, to w!om :eisal !ad appealed for a demonstration in Sinai to prevent furt!er wit!drawals of (ur&s for servi*e at Medina, sent a*& an en*ouraging reply, and every ody was reat!ing easily# A few days later %oyle dispersed t!e s!ips, promising anot!er lig!tning *on*entration upon anot!er warning) and . too& t!e opportunity to go down to "a eg!, w!ere . met Colonel %remond, t!e great earded *!ief of t!e :ren*! Military Mission, and t!e only real soldier in $e>a+# $e was still using !is :ren*! deta*!ment in Sue+ as a lever to move a %ritis! %rigade into "a eg!) and, sin*e !e suspe*ted . was not w!olly of !is party, !e made an effort to *onvert me# .n t!e *ourse of t!e argument w!i*! followed, . said somet!ing a out t!e need of soon atta*&ing Medina) for, wit! t!e rest of t!e %ritis!, . elieved t!at t!e fall of Medina was a ne*essary preliminary to any furt!er progress of t!e Ara "evolt# $e too& me up s!arply, saying t!at it was in no wise proper for t!e Ara s to ta&e Medina# .n !is view, t!e Ara Movement !ad attained its ma3imum utility y t!e mere re ellion in Me**a) and military operations against (ur&ey were etter in t!e unaided !ands of Great %ritain and :ran*e# $e wis!ed to land Allied troops at "a eg!, e*ause it would @uen*! t!e ardour of t!e tri es y ma&ing t!e S!erif suspe*t in t!eir eyes# (!e foreign troops would t!en e !is main defen*e, and !is preservation e our wor& and option, until at t!e end of t!e war, w!en (ur&ey was defeated, t!e vi*torious ,owers *ould e3tra*t Medina y treaty from t!e Sultan, and *onfer it upon $ussein, wit! t!e legal sovereignty of $e>a+, as !is rewards for fait!ful servi*e# . !ad not !is lig!t *onfiden*e in our eing strong enoug! to dispense wit! small allies) so . said s!ortly t!at my opinions were opposed to !is# . laid t!e greatest weig!t on t!e immediate *on@uest of Medina, and was advising :eisal to sei+e 'e>!, in order to prolong !is t!reat against t!e railway# .n sum, to my mind, t!e Ara Movement would not >ustify its *reation if t!e ent!usiasm of it did not *arry t!e Ara s into Damas*us#

(!is was unwel*ome to !im) for t!e Sy&es-,i*ot (reaty of 1917 etween :ran*e and 4ngland !ad een drawn y Sy&es for t!is very eventuality) and, to reward it, stipulated t!e esta lis!ment of independent Ara states in Damas*us, Aleppo and Mosul, distri*ts w!i*! would ot!erwise fall to t!e unrestri*ted *ontrol of :ran*e# 0eit!er Sy&es nor ,i*ot !ad elieved t!e t!ing really possi le) ut . &new t!at it was, and elieved t!at after it t!e vigour of t!e Ara Movement would prevent t!e *reation-- y us or ot!ers--in 'estern Asia of unduly ?*olonial? s*!emes of e3ploitation# %remond too& refuge in !is te*!ni*al sp!ere, and assured me, on !is !onour as a staff-offi*er, t!at for :eisal to leave 1en o and go to 'e>! was military sui*ide) ut . saw no for*e in t!e arguments w!i*! !e t!rew at me volu ly) and told !im so# .t was a *urious interview, t!at, etween an old soldier and a young man in fan*y dress) and it left a ad taste in my mout!# (!e Colonel, li&e !is *ountrymen, was a realist in love, and war# 4ven in situations of poetry t!e :ren*! remained in*orrigi le prose-writers, seeing y t!e dire*tly-t!rown lig!t of reason and understanding, not t!roug! t!e !alf-*losed eye, mistily, y t!ings? essential radian*e, in t!e manner of t!e imaginative %ritis!- so t!e two ra*es wor&ed ill toget!er on a great underta&ing# $owever, . *ontrolled myself enoug! not to tell any Ara of t!e *onversation, ut sent a full a**ount of it to Colonel 'ilson, w!o was s!ortly *oming up to see :eisal for a dis*ussion of t!e 'e>! prospe*t in all its earings# %efore 'ilson arrived t!e *entre of (ur&is! gravity *!anged a ruptly# :a&!ri ,as!i !ad seen t!e !opelessness of atta*&ing 1en o, or of driving after t!e intangi le /u!eina in ;!eif $ussein# Also !e was eing violently om ed in 0a&!l Mu ara& itself y a pair of %ritis! seaplanes w!i*! did !ardy flig!ts over t!e desert and got well into t!e enemy on two o**asions, despite t!eir s!rapnel# Conse@uently !e de*ided to fall a*& in a !urry on %ir Said, leaving a small for*e t!ere to *!e*& t!e /u!eina, and to move down t!e Sultani road towards "a eg! wit! t!e ul& of !is men# (!ese *!anges were no dou t partly impelled y t!e unusual vigour of Ali at "a eg!# As soon as Ali !ad !eard of Geid?s defeat !e !ad sent !im reinfor*ements and guns) and w!en :eisal !imself *ollapsed !e de*ided to move nort! wit! all !is army, to atta*& t!e (ur&s in 'adi Safra and draw t!em off 1en o# A!? !ad nearly seven t!ousand men) and :eisal felt t!at if t!e move was syn*!roni+ed wit! one on !is part, :a&!ri?s for*e mig!t e *rus!ed etween t!em in t!e !ills# $e telegrap!ed, suggesting t!is, as&ing for a delay of a few days till !is s!a&en men were ready# Ali was strung up and would not wait# :eisal t!erefore rus!ed Geid out to Masa!ali in 'adi 1en o to ma&e preparations# '!en t!ese were *omplete !e sent Geid on to o**upy %ir Said, w!i*! was done su**essfully# $e t!en ordered t!e /u!eina forward in support# (!ey demurred) for i n %eidawi was >ealous of :eisal?s growing power among !is tri es, and wanted to &eep !imself indispensa le# :eisal rode unattended to 0a&!l Mu ara&, and in one nig!t *onvin*ed t!e /u!eina t!at !e was t!eir leader# 0e3t morning t!ey were all moving, w!ile !e went on to *olle*t t!e nort!ern $ar on t!e (as!a ,ass to interrupt t!e (ur&is! retreat in 'adi Safra# $e !ad nearly si3 t!ousand men) and if Ali too& t!e sout!ern an& of t!e valley t!e wea& (ur&s would e etween two fires# 9nfortunately it did not !appen# '!en a*tually on t!e move !e !eard from Ali t!at, after a pea*eful re*overy of %ir i n $assani, !is men !ad een s!a&en y false reports of disloyalty among t!e Su !, and !ad fallen a*& in rapid disorder to %a eg!# .n t!is ominous pause Colonel 'ilson *ame up to 1en o to persuade us of t!e ne*essity of an immediate operation against 'e>!# An amended plan !ad een drawn up w!ere y :eisal would ta&e t!e w!ole for*e of t!e /u!eina, and !is permanent attalions, against 'e>! wit! t!e ma3imum of naval !elp# (!is strengt! would ma&e su**ess reasona ly sure, ut it left 1en o empty and defen*eless# :or t!e moment :eisal dreaded in*urring su*! a ris&# $e pointed out, not unreasona ly, t!at t!e (ur&s in !is neig! our!ood were still mo ile) t!at Ali?s for*e !ad proved !ollow, unli&ely to defend even %a eg! against serious atta*&) and t!at, as %a eg! was t!e ulwar& of Me**a, sooner t!an see it lost !e must t!row away 1en o and ferry !imself and men t!it!er to die fig!ting on its ea*!# (o reassure !im, 'ilson painted t!e %a eg! for*e in warm *olours# :eisal *!e*&ed !is sin*erity y

as&ing for !is personal word t!at t!e %a eg! garrison, wit! %ritis! naval !elp, would resist enemy atta*& till 'e>! fell# 'ilson loo&ed for support round t!e silent de*& of t!e 1ufferin Bon w!i*! we were *onferringC, and no ly gave t!e re@uired assuran*e- a wise gam le, sin*e wit!out it :eisal would not move) and t!is diversion against 'e>!, t!e only offensive in t!e Ara s? power, was t!eir last *!an*e not so mu*! of se*uring a *onvin*ing siege of Medina, as of preventing t!e (ur&is! *apture of Me**a# A few days later !e strengt!ened !imself y sending :eisal dire*t orders from !is fat!er, t!e S!erif, to pro*eed to 'e>! at on*e, wit! all !is availa le troops# Meanw!ile t!e %a eg! situation grew worse# (!e enemy in 'adi Safra and t!e Sultani road were estimated at nearly five t!ousand men# (!e $ar of t!e nort! were suppliant to t!em for preservation of t!eir palm-groves# (!e $ar of t!e sout!, t!ose of $ussein Ma eirig, notoriously waited t!eir advan*e to atta*& t!e S!erifians in t!e rear# At a *onferen*e of 'ilson, %remond, /oy*e, %oss and ot!ers, !eld in %a eg! on C!ristmas 4ve, it was de*ided to lay out on t!e ea*! y t!e aerodrome a small position, *apa le of eing !eld under t!e s!ip?s guns y t!e 4gyptians, t!e :lying Corps and a seamen?s landing party from t!e #inerva, for t!e few !ours needed to em ar& or destroy t!e stores# (!e (ur&s were advan*ing step y step) and t!e pla*e was not in *ondition to resist one well-!andled attalion supported y field artillery# $owever, :a&!ri was too slow# $e did not pass %ir el S!ei&! in any for*e till near t!e end of t!e first wee& in /anuary, and seven days later was still not ready to atta*& ;!orei a, w!ere Ali !ad an outpost of a few !undred men# (!e patrols were in tou*!) and an assault was daily e3pe*ted, ut as regularly delayed# .n trut! t!e (ur&s were meeting wit! unguessed diffi*ulties# (!eir !ead@uarters were fa*ed y a !eavy si*& rate among t!e men, and a growing wea&ness of t!e animals- ot! symptoms of overwor& and la*& of de*ent food# Always t!e a*tivity of t!e tri esmen e!ind t!eir a*& !ampered t!em# Clans mig!t sometimes fall away from t!e Ara *ause, ut did not t!erefore e*ome trustwort!y ad!erents of t!e (ur&s, w!o soon found t!emselves in u i@uitously !ostile *ountry# (!e tri al raids in t!e first fortnig!t of /anuary *aused t!em average daily losses of forty *amels and some twenty men &illed and wounded, wit! *orresponding e3pense in stores# (!ese raids mig!t o**ur at any point from ten miles seaward of Medina itself for t!e ne3t seventy miles t!roug! t!e !ills# (!ey illustrated t!e o sta*les in t!e way of t!e new (ur&is! Army wit! its !alf-Germani+ed *omple3ity of e@uipment, w!en, from a distant rail!ead wit! no made roads, it tried to advan*e t!roug! e3tremely rugged and !ostile *ountry# (!e administrative developments of s*ientifi* war !ad *logged its mo ility and destroyed its das!) and trou les grew in geometri*al rat!er t!an arit!meti*al progression for ea*! new mile its *ommanding offi*ers put etween t!emselves and Medina, t!eir ill-found, inse*ure and in*onvenient ase# (!e situation was so unpromising for t!e (ur&s t!at :a&!ri was pro a ly !alf glad w!en t!e fort!*oming sudden moves of A dulla and :eisal in t!e last days of 1917 altered t!e strategi* *on*eption of t!e $e>a+ war, and !urried t!e Me**a e3pedition Bafter /anuary t!e eig!teent! 191LC a*& from t!e Sultani and t!e :ara and t!e Ga!a roads, a*& from 'adi Safra, to !old a passive defen*e of tren*!es wit!in sig!t of t!e walls of Medina- a stati* position w!i*! endured till t!e Armisti*e ended t!e war and involved (ur&ey in t!e dismal surrenderof t!e $oly City and its !elpless garrison#

&()PTE" ..II
:eisal was a fine, !ot wor&man, w!ole-!eartedly doing a t!ing w!en !e !ad agreed to it# $e !ad pledged !is word t!at !e would go at on*e to 'e>!) so !e and . sat down toget!er on new-year?s day for *onsideration of w!at t!is move meant to us and to t!e (ur&s# Around us, stret*!ing up and down t!e 'adi 1en o for miles, in little groups round palm-gardens, under t!e t!i*&er trees, and in all t!e side tri utaries, w!erever t!ere was s!elter from t!e sun and rain, or good gra+ing for t!e *amels, were t!e soldiers of our army# (!e mountaineers, !alf-na&ed footmen, !ad grown few# Most of t!e si3

t!ousand present were mounted men of su stan*e# (!eir *offee !eart!s were outlined from afar y t!e *amel saddles, pit*!ed in *ir*les round t!e fire as el ow-rests for men re*lining etween meals# (!e Ara s? p!ysi*al perfe*tion let t!em lie rela3ed to t!e stony ground li&e li+ards, moulding t!emselves to its roug!ness in *orpse-li&e a andon# (!ey were @uiet ut *onfident# Some, w!o !ad een serving :eisal for si3 mont!s or more, !ad lost t!at pristine !eat of eagerness w!i*! !ad so t!rilled me in $amra) ut t!ey !ad gained e3perien*e in *ompensation) and staying-power in t!e ideal was fatter and more important for us t!an an early fier*eness# (!eir patriotism was now *ons*ious) and t!eir attendan*e grew more regular as t!e distan*e from t!eir tomes in*reased# (ri al independen*e of orders was still maintained) ut t!ey !ad a*!ieved a mild routine in *amp life and on t!e mar*!# '!en t!e S!erif *ame near t!ey fell into a ragged line, and toget!er made t!e ow and sweep of t!e arm to t!e lips, w!i*! was t!e offi*ial salute# (!ey did not oil t!eir guns- t!ey said lest t!e sand *log t!em) also t!ey !ad no oil, and it was etter ru ed in to soften wind-*!aps on t!eir s&in) ut t!e guns were de*ently &ept, and some of t!e owners *ould s!oot at long range# .n mass t!ey were not formida le, sin*e t!ey !ad no *orporate spirit, nor dis*ipline nor mutual *onfiden*e# (!e smaller t!e unit t!e etter its performan*e# A t!ousand were a mo , ineffe*tive against a *ompany of trained (ur&s- ut t!ree or four Ara s in t!eir !ills would stop a do+en (ur&s# 0apoleon remar&ed t!is of t!e Mamelu&es# 'e were yet too reat!less to turn our !asty pra*ti*e into prin*iple- our ta*ti*s were empiri*al snat*!ings of t!e first means to es*ape diffi*ulty# %ut we were learning li&e our men# :rom t!e attle of 0a&!l Mu ara& we a andoned t!e rigading of 4gyptian troops wit! irregulars# 'e em ar&ed t!e 4gyptian offi*ers and men, after turning over t!eir *omplete e@uipment to "asim, :eisal?s gunner, and A dulla el Deleimi, !is ma*!ine-gun offi*er# (!ey uilt up Ara *ompanies out of lo*al material, wit! a stiffening of (ur&-trained Syrian and Mesopotamian deserters# Maulud, t!e fireeating A#D#C#, egged fifty mules off me, put a*ross t!em fifty of !is trained infantrymen, and told t!em t!ey were *avalry# $e was a martinet, and a orn mounted offi*er, and y !is spartan e3er*ises t!e mu*!- eaten mule-riders grew painfully into e3*ellent soldiers, instantly o edient and *apa le of formal atta*&# (!ey were prodigies in t!e Ara ran&s# 'e telegrap!ed for anot!er fifty mules, to dou le t!e dose of mounted infantry, sin*e t!e value of so toug! a unit for re*onnaissan*e was o vious# :eisal suggested ta&ing nearly all t!e /u!eina to 'e>! wit! !im and adding to t!em enoug! of t!e $ar and %illi, Atei a and Ageyl to give t!e mass a many-tri ed *!ara*ter# 'e wanted t!is mar*!, w!i*! would e in its way a *losing a*t of t!e war in 0ort!ern $e>a+, to send a rumour t!roug! t!e lengt! and readt! of 'estern Ara ia# .t was to e t!e iggest operation of t!e Ara s in t!eir memory) dismissing t!ose w!o saw it to t!eir !omes, wit! a sense t!at t!eir world !ad *!anged indeed) so t!at t!ere would e no more silly defe*tions and >ealousies of *lans e!ind us in future, to *ripple us wit! family politi*s in t!e middle of our fig!ting# 0ot t!at we e3pe*ted immediate opposition# 'e ot!ered to ta&e t!is unwieldy mo wit! us to 'e>!, in t!e teet! of effi*ien*y and e3perien*e, >ust e*ause t!ere was no fig!ting in t!e ill# 'e !ad intangi le assets on our side# .n t!e first pla*e, t!e (ur&s !ad now engaged t!eir surplus strengt! in atta*&ing "a eg!, or rat!er in prolonging t!eir o**upied area so as to atta*& "a eg!# .t would ta&e t!em days to transfer a*& nort!# (!en t!e (ur&s were stupid, and we re*&oned on t!eir not !earing all at on*e of our move, and on t!eir not elieving its first tale, and not seeing till later w!at *!an*es it !ad given t!em# .f we did our mar*! in t!ree wee&s we s!ould pro a ly ta&e 'e>! y surprise# 2astly, we mig!t develop t!e sporadi* raiding a*tivity of t!e $ar into *ons*ious operations, to ta&e ooty, if possi le, in order to e self-supporting) ut primarily to lo*& up large num ers of (ur&s in defen*e positions# Geid agreed to go down to "a eg! to organi+e similar pin-pri*&s in t!e (ur&s? rear# . gave !im letters to t!e *aptain of t!e 1ufferin, t!e 1en o guards!ip, w!i*! would ensure !im a @ui*& passage down- for all w!o &new of t!e 'e>! s*!eme were agog to !elp it# (o e3er*ise my own !and in t!e raiding genre . too& a test party of t!irty-five Ma!amid wit! me from

0a&!l Mu ara&, on t!e se*ond day of 191L, to t!e old lo*&!ouse-well of my first >ourney from "a eg! to 1en o# '!en dar& *ame we dismounted, and left our *amels wit! ten men to guard t!em against possi le (ur&is! patrols# (!e rest of us *lim ed up D!ifran- a painful *lim , for t!e !ills were of &nife-s!arp strata turned on edge and running in o li@ue lines from *rest to foot# (!ey gave a undan*e of ro&en surfa*e, ut no sure grip, for t!e stone was so minutely *ra*&edt!at any segment would *ome away from its matri3, in t!e !and# (!e !ead of D!ifran was *old and misty, and time dragged till dawn# 'e disposed ourselves in *revi*es of t!e ro*&, and at last saw t!e tips of ell-tents t!ree !undred yards away eneat! us to t!e rig!t, e!ind a spur# 'e *ould not get a full view, so *ontented ourselves wit! putting ullets t!roug! t!eir tops# A *rowd of (ur&s turned out and leaped li&e stags into t!eir tren*!es# (!ey were very fast targets, and pro a ly suffered little# .n return t!ey opened rapid fire in every dire*tion, and made a terrifi* row) as if signalling t!e $amra for*e to turn out in t!eir !elp# As t!e enemy were already more t!an ten to one, t!e reinfor*ements mig!t !ave prevented our retreat- so we *rawled gently a*& till we *ould rus! down into t!e first valley, w!ere we fell over two s*ared (ur&s, un uttoned, at t!eir morning e3er*ise# (!ey were ragged, ut somet!ing to s!ow, and we dragged t!em !omeward, w!ere t!eir news proved useful# :eisal was still nervous over a andoning 1en o, !it!erto !is indispensa le ase, and t!e se*ond seaport of $e>a+- and w!en *asting a out for furt!er e3pedients to distra*t t!e (ur&s from its o**upation we suddenly remem ered Sidi A dulla in $ena&iye!# $e !ad some five t!ousand irregulars, and a few guns and ma*!ine-guns, and t!e reputation of !is su**essful Bif too slowC siege of (aif# .t seemed a s!ame to leave !im wasting in t!e middle of t!e wilderness# A first idea was t!at !e mig!t *ome to ;!ei ar, to t!reaten t!e railway nort! of Medina- ut :eisal improved my plan vastly, y remem ering 'adi Ais, t!e !istori* valley of springs and palm-villages flowing t!roug! t!e impregna le /u!eina !ills from e!ind "ud!wa eastward to t!e $amd! valley near $edia# .t lay >ust one !undred &ilometres nort! of Medina, a dire*t t!reat on :a&!ri?s railway *ommuni*ations wit! Damas*us# :rom it A dulla *ould &eep up !is arranged lo*&ade of Medina from t!e east, against *aravans from t!e ,ersian Gulf# Also it was near 1en o, w!i*! *ould easily feed !im t!ere wit! munitions and supplies# (!e proposal was o viously an inspiration and we sent off "a>a el ;!uluwi at on*e to put it to A dulla# So sure were we of !is adopting it t!at we urged :eisal to move away from 'adi 1en o nort!ward on t!e first stage to'e>!, wit!out waiting a reply#

&()PTE" ..III
$e agreed, and we too& t!e wide upper road t!roug! 'adi Messari!, for 8wais, a group of wells a out fifteen miles to t!e nort! of 1en o# (!e !ills were eautiful to-day# (!e rains of De*em er !ad een a undant, and t!e warm sun after t!em !ad de*eived t!e eart! into elieving it was spring# So a t!in grass !ad *ome up in all t!e !ollows and flat pla*es# (!e lades Bsingle, straig!t and very slenderC s!ot up etween t!e stones# .f a man ent over from !is saddle and loo&ed downward !e would see no new *olour in t!e ground) ut, y loo&ing forward, and getting a distant slope at a flat angle wit! !is eye, !e *ould feel a lively mist of pale green !ere and t!ere over t!e surfa*e of slate- lue and rownred ro*&# .n pla*es t!e growt! was strong, and our painsta&ing *amels !ad e*ome prosperous, gra+ing on it# (!e starting signal went, ut only for us and t!e Ageyl# (!e ot!er units of t!e army, standing ea*! man y !is *ou*!ed *amel, lined up eside our road, and, as :eisal *ame near, saluted !im in silen*e# $e *alled a*& *!eerfully, ?,ea*e upon you?, and ea*! !ead s!ei&! returned t!e p!rase# '!en we !ad passed t!ey mounted, ta&ing t!e time from t!eir *!iefs, and so t!e for*es e!ind us swelled till t!ere was a line of men and *amels winding along t!e narrow pass towards t!e waters!ed for as far a*& as t!e eye rea*!ed# :eisal?s greetings !ad een t!e only sounds efore we rea*!ed t!e *rest of t!e rise w!ere t!e valley

opened out and e*ame a gentle forward slope of soft s!ingle and flint edded in sand- ut t!ere i n Da&!il, t!e &een s!ei&! of "uss, w!o !ad raised t!is *ontingent of Ageyl two years efore to aid (ur&ey, and !ad roug!t it over wit! !im inta*t to t!e S!erif w!en t!e revolt *ame, dropped a*& a pa*e or two, mars!alled our following into a road *olumn of ordered ran&s, and made t!e drums stri&e up# 4veryone urst out singing a full-t!roated song in !onour of 4mir :eisal and !is family # (!e mar*! e*ame rat!er splendid and ar ari*# :irst rode :eisal in w!ite, t!en S!arraf at !is rig!t in red !ead-*lot! and !enna-dyed tuni* and *loa&, myself on !is left in w!ite and s*arlet, e!ind us t!ree anners of faded *rimson sil& wit! gilt spi&es, e!ind t!em t!e drummers playing a mar*!, and e!ind t!em again t!e wild mass of twelve !undred oun*ing *amels of t!e odyguard, pa*&ed as *losely as t!ey *ould move, t!e men in every variety of *oloured *lot!es and t!e *amels nearly as rilliant in t!eir trappings# 'e filled t!e valley to its an&s wit! our flas!ing stream# At t!e mout! of Messari!, a messenger rode up wit! letters to :eisal from A d el ;ader, in 1en o# Among t!em was one t!ree days old for me from t!e 1ufferin to say t!at s!e would not em ar& Geid till s!e !ad seen me and !eard details of t!e lo*al situation# S!e was in t!e S!erm, a lonely *ree& eig!t miles up t!e *oast from t!e port, w!ere t!e offi*ers *ould play *ri*&et on t!e ea*! wit!out t!e plague of flies pervading 1en o# 8f *ourse, t!ey *ut t!emselves off from news y staying so far away- it was a point of old fri*tion etween us# $er well-meaning *ommander !ad not t!e readt! of %oyle, t!e fiery politi*ian and revolutionary *onstitutionalist, nor t!e rain of 2in erry, of t!e ,ardinge, w!o filled !imself wit! t!e s!ore gossip of every port !e tou*!ed, and w!o too& pains to understand t!e nature of all *lasses on !is eat# Apparently . !ad etter ra*e off to 1ufferin and regulate affairs# Geid was a ni*e fellow, ut would assuredly do somet!ing @uaint in !is enfor*ed !oliday) and we needed pea*e >ust t!en# :eisal sent some Ageyl wit! me and we made speed for 1en o- indeed, . got t!ere in t!ree !ours, leaving my disgusted es*ort Bw!o said t!ey would wear out neit!er *amels nor ottoms for my impatien*eC !alf way a*& on t!e road a*ross t!e plain so wearily well &nown to me# (!e sun, w!i*! !ad een delig!tful over!ead in t!e !ills, now, in t!e evening, s!one straig!t into our fa*es wit! a w!ite fury, efore w!i*! . !ad to press my !and as s!ield over my eyes# :eisal !ad given me a ra*ing *amel Ba present from t!e 4mir of 0e>d to !is fat!erC, t!e finest and roug!est animal . !ad ridden# 2ater s!e died of overwor&, mange, and ne*essary negle*t on t!e roadto A&a a# 8n arrival in 1en o t!ings were not as e3pe*ted# Geid !ad een em ar&ed, and t!e 1ufferin !ad started t!at morning for "a eg!# So . sat down to *ount w!at we needed of naval !elp on t!e way to 'e>!, and to s*!eme out means of transport# :eisal !ad promised to wait at 8wais till !e got my report t!at everyt!ing was ready# (!e first *!e*& was a *onfli*t etween t!e *ivil and military powers# A d el ;ader, t!e energeti* ut temperamental governor, !ad een *luttered up wit! duties as our ase grew in si+e, till :eisal added to !im a military *ommandant, (ewfi& %ey, a Syrian from $orns, to *are for ordnan*e stores# 9nfortunately, t!ere was no ar iter to define ordnan*e stores# (!at morning t!ey fell out over empty arms-*!ests# A d el ;adir lo*&ed t!e store and went to lun*!# (ewfi& *ame down to t!e @uay wit! four men, a ma*!ine-gun and a sledge !ammer, and opened t!e door# A d el ;ader got into a oat, rowed out to t!e %ritis! guards!ip--t!e tiny Espiegle--and told !er em arrassed ut !ospita le *aptain t!at !e !ad *ome to stay# $is servant roug!t !im food from t!e s!ore and !e slept t!e nig!t in a *amp- ed on t!e @uarter-de*&# . wanted to !urry, so egan to solve t!e deadlo*& y ma&ing A d el ;adir write to :eisal for !is de*ision and y ma&ing (ewfi& !and over t!e store to me# 'e roug!t t!e trawler Arethusa near t!e sloop, t!at A d el ;ader mig!t dire*t t!e loading of t!e disputed *!ests from !is s!ip, and lastly roug!t (ewfi& off to t!e Espiegle for a temporary re*on*iliation# .t was made easy y an a**ident, for, as (ewfi& saluted !is guard of !onour at t!e gangway Bnot stri*tly regular, t!is guard, ut politi*C, !is fa*e eamed and !e said- (!is s!ip *aptured me at ;urna, pointing to t!e trop!y of t!e nameplate of t!e (ur&is! gun oat #armaris, w!i*! t!e Espiegle !ad sun& in a*tion on t!e (igris# A d el ;adir was as interested in t!e tale as (ewfi&, and t!e trou le *eased#

S!arraf *ame into 1en o ne3t day as 4mir, in :eisal?s pla*e# $e was a powerful man, per!aps t!e most *apa le of all t!e S!erifs in t!e army, ut devoid of am ition- a*ting out of duty, not from impulse# $e was ri*!, and !ad een for years *!ief >usti*e of t!e S!erifs *ourt# $e &new and !andled tri esmen etter t!an any man, and t!ey feared !im, for !e was severe and impartial, and !is fa*e was sinister, wit! a left eye row w!i*! drooped Bt!e effe*t of an old lowC and gave !im an air of for idding !ardness# (!e surgeon of t!e Suva operated on t!e eye and repaired mu*! of t!e damage, ut t!e fa*e remained one to re u&e li erties or wea&ness# . found !im good to wor& wit!, very *lear-!eaded, wise and &ind, wit! a pleasant smile-!is mout! e*ame soft t!en, w!ile !is eyes remained terri le-and a determination to do fittingly, always# 'e agreed t!at t!e ris& of t!e fall of 1en o w!ile we !unted 'e>! was great, and t!at it would e wise to empty it of stores# %oyle gave me an opportunity y signalling t!at eit!er 1ufferin or ,ardinge would e made availa le for transport# . replied t!at as diffi*ulties would e severe . preferred ,ardingeA Captain 'arren, w!ose s!ip inter*epted t!e message, felt it superfluous, ut it roug!t along ,ardinge in t!e est temper two days later# S!e was an .ndian troop-s!ip, and !er lowest troopde*& !ad great s@uare ports along t!e water level# 2in erry opened t!ese for us, and we stuffed straig!t in eig!t t!ousand rifles, t!ree million rounds of ammunition, t!ousands of s!ells, @uantities of ri*e and flour, a s!ed-full of uniforms, two tons of !ig! e3plosive, and all our petrol, pell-mell# .t was li&e posting letters in a o3# .n no time s!e !ad ta&en a t!ousand tons of stuff# %oyle *ame in eager for news# $e promised t!e ,ardinge as depot s!ip t!roug!out, to land food and water w!enever needed, and t!is solved t!e main diffi*ulty# (!e 0avy were already *olle*ting# $alf t!e "ed Sea :leet would e present# (!e admiral was e3pe*ted and landing parties were eing drilled on every s!ip# 4veryone was dyeing w!ite du*& &!a&i-*oloured, or s!arpening ayonets, or pra*tising wit! rifles# . !oped silently, in t!eir despite, t!at t!ere would e no fig!ting# :eisal !ad nearly ten t!ousand men, enoug! to fill t!e w!ole %illi *ountry wit! armed parties and *arry off everyt!ing not too !eavy or too !ot# (!e %illi &new it, and were now profuse in t!eir loyalties to t!e S!erif, *ompletely *onverted to Ara nationality# .t was sure t!at we would ta&e 'e>!- t!e fear was lest num ers of :eisal?s !ost die of !unger or t!irst on t!e way# Supply was my usiness, and rat!er a responsi ility# $owever, t!e *ountry to 9rn 2e>>, !alf way, was friendly- not!ing tragi* *ould !appen so far as t!at- t!erefore, we sent word to :eisal t!at all was ready, and !e left 8wais on t!e very day t!at A dulla replied wel*oming t!e Ais plan and promising an immediate start t!it!er# (!e same day *ame news of my relief# 0ew*om e, t!e regular *olonel eing sent to $e>a+ as *!ief of our military mission, !ad arrived in 4gypt, and !is two staff offi*ers, Co3 and <i*&ery, were a*tually on t!eir way down t!e "ed Sea, to >oin t!is e3pedition# %oyle too& me to 9m 2e>> in t!e Suva, and we went as!ore to get t!e news# (!e s!ei&! told us t!at :eisal would arrive to-day, at %ir el 'a!eidi, t!e water supply, four miles inland# 'e sent up a message for !im and t!en wal&ed over to t!e fort w!i*! %oyle !ad s!elled some mont!s efore from t!e +o%# .t was >ust a ru le arra*&, and %oyle loo&ed at t!e ruins and said- .?m rat!er as!amed of myself for smas!ing su*! a potty pla*e#? $e was a very professional offi*er, alert, usinessli&e and offi*ial) sometimes a little intolerant of easy-going t!ings and people# "ed-!aired men are seldom patient# ?Ginger %oyle?, as t!ey *alled !im, was warm# '!ile we were loo&ing over t!e ruins four grey ragged elders of t!e village *ame up and as&ed leave to spea&# (!ey said t!at some mont!s efore a sudden two-funnelled s!ip !ad *ome up and destroyed t!eir fort# (!ey were now re@uired to re- uild it for t!e poli*e of t!e Ara Government# Mig!t t!ey as& t!e generous *aptain of t!is pea*ea le one-funnelled s!ip for a little tim er, or for ot!er material !elp towards t!e restorationJ %oyle was restless at t!eir long spee*!, and snapped at me, '!at is itJ '!at do t!ey wantJ? . said, ?0ot!ing) t!ey were des*ri ing t!e terri le effe*t of t!e +o%0s om ardment#? %oyle loo&ed round !im for a moment and smiled grimly , ?.t?s a fair mess?# 0e3t day <i*&ery arrived# $e was a gunner, and in !is ten years? servi*e in t!e Sudan !ad learned

Ara i*, ot! literary and *ollo@uial, so well t!at !e would @uit us of all need of an interpreter# 'e arranged to go up wit! %oyle to :eisal?s *amp to ma&e t!e timeta le for t!e atta*&, and after lun*! 4nglis!men and Ara s got to wor& and dis*ussed t!e remaining mar*! to 'e>!# 'e de*ided to rea& t!e army into se*tions- and t!at t!ese s!ould pro*eed independently to our *on*entration pla*e of A u Gerei at in $amd!, after w!i*! t!ere was no water efore 'e>!) ut %oyle agreed t!at t!e ,ardinge s!ould ta&e station for a single nig!t in S!erm $a an--supposed to e a possi le !ar our--and land twenty tons of water for us on t!e ea*!# So t!at was settled# :or t!e atta*& on 'e>! we offered %oyle an Ara landing party of several !undred $ar and /u!eina peasantry and freed men, under Sale! i n S!efia, a negroid oy of good *ourage Bwit! t!e fa*ulty of friendlinessC w!o &ept !is men in reasona le order y *on>urations and appeals, and never minded !ow mu*! !is own dignity was outraged y t!em or y us# %oyle a**epted t!em and de*ided to put t!em on anot!er de*& of t!e many-stoma*!ed ,ardinge# (!ey, wit! t!e naval party, would land nort! of t!e town, w!ere t!e (ur&s !ad no post to lo*& a landing, and w!en*e 'e>! and its !ar our were est turned# %oyle would !ave at least si3 s!ips, wit! fifty guns to o**upy t!e (ur&s? minds, and a seaplane s!ip to dire*t t!e guns# 'e would e at A u Gerei at on t!e twentiet! of t!e mont!- at $a an for t!e ,ardinge?s water on t!e twenty-se*ond- and t!e landing party s!ould go as!ore at dawn on t!e twenty-t!ird, y w!i*! time our mounted men would !ave *losed all roads of es*ape from t!e town# (!e news from "a eg! was good) and t!e (ur&s !ad made no attempt to profit y t!e na&edness of 1en o# (!ese were our !a+ards, and w!en %oyle?s wireless set t!em at rest we were mig!tily en*ouraged# A dulla was almost in Ais- we were !alf-way to 'e>!- t!e initiative !ad passed to t!e Ara s# . was so >oyous t!at for a moment . forgot my self-*ontrol, and said e3ultingly t!at in a year we would e tapping on t!e gates of Damas*us# A *!ill *ame over t!e feeling in t!e tent and my !opefulness died# 2ater, . !eard t!at <i*&ery !ad gone to %oyle and ve!emently *ondemned me as a raggart and visionary) ut, t!oug! t!e out urst was foolis!, it was not an impossi le dream, for five mont!s later . was in Damas*us, and a year after t!at . was its de facto Governor# <i*&ery !ad disappointed me, and . !ad angered !im# $e &new . was militarily in*ompetent and t!oug!t me politi*ally a surd# . &new !e was t!e trained soldier our *ause needed, and yet !e seemed lind to its power# (!e Ara s nearly made s!ipwre*& t!roug! t!is lindness of 4uropean advisers, w!o would not see t!at re ellion was not war- indeed, was more of t!e nature of pea*e--a national stri&e per!aps# (!e *on>un*tion of Semites, an idea, and an armed prop!et !eld illimita le possi ilities) in s&illed !ands it would !ave een, not Damas*us, ut Constantinople w!i*! was rea*!ed in 1916#

&()PTE" ..I+
4arly ne3t morning, !aving seen t!at t!e ,ardinge was unloading wit!out fri*tion, . went as!ore to S!ei&! 1usuf, and found !im !elping !is %is!a poli*e, t!e frig!tened villagers and a s@uad of old Maulud?s men to t!row a @ui*& arri*ade a*ross t!e end of t!e main street# $e told me t!at fifty wild mules, wit!out !alter or ridle or saddle, !ad een loosed on s!ore t!at morning from a s!ip# %y lu*& rat!er t!an s&ill t!ey !ad een stampeded into t!e mar&et-pla*e- t!e e3its were now safely arred, and t!ere t!ey must remain, ramping a out t!e stalls, till Maulud, to w!om t!ey were addressed, invented saddlery in t!e wilderness# (!is was t!e se*ond at*! of fifty mules for t!e mounted unit, and y t!e *!an*e of our fear at 1en o we, fortunately, !ad spare ropes and its enoug! for t!em on oard t!e ,ardinge# So y noon t!e s!ops were again open, and t!e damage paid for# . went up to :eisal?s *amp, w!i*! was usy# Some of t!e tri es were drawing a mont!?s wages) all were getting eig!t days? food) tents and !eavy aggage were eing stored) and t!e last arrangement for t!e mar*! eing made# . sat and listened to t!e *!atter of t!e staff- :ai+ el G!usein, %eduin s!ei&!, (ur&is! offi*ial, *!roni*ler of t!e Armenian massa*res, now se*retary) 0esi el %e&ri, Damas*ene land-owner, and :eisal?s !ost in Syria, now e3iled from !is *ountry wit! a deat!-senten*e over !im)

Sami, 0esi ?s rot!er, graduate of t!e 2aw S*!ool, and now assistant paymaster) S!efi& el 4yr, e3>ournalist, now assistant se*retary, a little w!ite-fa*ed man, and furtive, wit! a w!ispering manner, !onest in !is patriotism, ut in Me perverse, and so a nasty *olleague# $assan S!araf, t!e !ead@uarters? do*tor, a no le man w!o !ad put not merely !is Me, ut !is purse to servi*e in t!e Ara *ause, was plaintive wit! e3*ess of disgust at finding !is p!ials smas!ed and t!eir drugs *onfounded in t!e ottom of !is *!est# S!efi& rallying !im, said, ?Do you e3pe*t a re ellion to e *omforta leJ? and t!e *ontrast wit! t!e pale misery of t!eir manner delig!ted us# .n !ards!ips t!e !umour of triteness outweig!ed a w!ole world of wit# 'it! :eisal in t!e evening we tal&ed of t!e *oming mar*!es# (!e first stage was s!ort- to Semna, w!ere were palm-groves and wells of a undant water# After t!at t!ere was *!oi*e of ways, to e determined only w!en our s*outs returned wit! reports as to ponded rainwater# %y t!e *oast, t!e straig!t road, it was si3ty dry miles to t!e ne3t well, and our multitude of footmen would find t!at long# (!e army at %ir el 'a!eida amounted to five t!ousand one !undred *amel-riders, and five t!ousand t!ree !undred men on foot, wit! four ;rupp mountain guns, and ten ma*!ine-guns- and for transport we !ad t!ree !undred and eig!ty aggage *amels# 4veryt!ing was *ut to t!e lowest, far elow t!e standard of t!e (ur&s# 8ur start was set for /anuary t!e eig!teent! >ust after noon, and pun*tually y lun*!-time :eisal?s wor& was finis!ed# 'e were a merry party- :eisal !imself, rela3ed after responsi ility, A d el ;erim, never very serious, S!erif /a ar, 0asi and Sami, S!efi&, $assan S!araf and myself# After lun*! t!e tent was stru*&# 'e went to our *amels, w!ere t!ey were *ou*!ed in a *ir*le, saddled and loaded, ea*! !eld s!ort y t!e slave standing on its dou led foreleg# (!e &ettle drummer, waiting eside i n Da&!il, w!o *ommanded t!e odyguard, rolled !is drum seven or eig!t times, and everyt!ing e*ame still# 'e wat*!ed :eisal# $e got up from !is rug, on w!i*! !e !ad een saying a last word to A d el ;erim, *aug!t t!e saddle-pommels in !is !ands, put !is &nee on t!e side and said aloud, ?Ma&e God your agent?# (!e slave released t!e *amel, w!i*! sprang up# '!en it was on its feet :eisal passed !is ot!er leg a*ross its a*&, swept !is s&irts and !is *loa& under !im y a wave of t!e arm, and settled !imself in t!e saddle# As !is *amel moved we !ad >umped for ours, and t!e w!ole mo rose toget!er, some of t!e easts roaring, ut t!e most @uiet, as trained s!e-*amels s!ould e# 8nly a young animal, a male or ill- red, would grum le on t!e road, and self-respe*ting %eduins did not ride su*!, sin*e t!e noise mig!t give t!em away y nig!t or in surprise atta*&s# (!e *amels too& t!eir first a rupt steps, and we riders !ad @ui*&ly to !oo& our legs round t!e front *antles, and pi*& up t!e !ead-stalls to *!e*& t!e pa*e# 'e t!en loo&ed w!ere :eisal was, and tapped our mounts? !eads gently round, and pressed t!em on t!e s!oulders wit! our are feet till t!ey were in line eside !im# . n Da&!il *ame up, and after a glan*e at t!e *ountry and t!e dire*tion of mar*! passed a s!ort order for t!e Ageyl to arrange t!emselves in wings, out to rig!t and left of us for two or t!ree !undred yards, *amel mar*!ing y *amel in line as near as t!e a**idents underfoot permitted#(!e manoeuvre was neatly done# (!ese Ageyl were 0e>d townsmen, t!e yout! of Aney+a, %oreida or "uss, w!o !ad *ontra*ted for servi*e as regular *amel *orps for a term of years# (!ey were young, from si3teen to twenty-five, and ni*e fellows, large-eyed, *!eery, a it edu*ated, *at!oli*, intelligent, good *ompanions on t!e road# (!ere was seldom a !eavy one# 4ven in repose Bw!en most 4astern fa*es emptied t!emselves of lifeC t!ese lads remained &een-loo&ing and !andsome# (!ey tal&ed a deli*ate and elasti* Ara i*, and were mannered, often foppis!, in !a it# (!e do*ility and reasona leness of t!eir town- red minds made t!em loo& after t!emselves and t!eir masters wit!out reiterated instru*tions# (!eir fat!ers dealt in *amels, and t!ey !ad followed t!e trade from infan*y) *onse@uently t!ey wandered instin*tively, li&e %eduin) w!ile t!e de*adent softness in t!eir nature made t!em idda le, tolerant of t!e !ars!ness and p!ysi*al punis!ment w!i*! in t!e 4ast were t!e outward proofs of dis*ipline# (!ey were essentially su missive) yet !ad t!e nature of soldiers, and foug!t wit! rains and *ourage w!en familiarly led# 0ot eing a tri e, t!ey !ad no lood enemies, ut passed freely in t!e desert- t!e *arrying trade and *!affer of t!e interior lay in t!eir !ands# (!e gains of t!e desert were poor, ut enoug! to tempt t!em

a road, sin*e t!e *onditions of t!eir !ome-life were un*omforta le# (!e 'a!a is, followers of a fanati*al Moslem !eresy, !ad imposed t!eir stri*t rules on easy and *ivili+ed ;asim# .n ;asim t!ere was ut little *offee-!ospitality, mu*! prayer and fasting, no to a**o, no artisti* dallian*e wit! women, no sil& *lot!es, no gold and silver !ead-ropes or ornaments# 4veryt!ing was for*i ly pious or for*i ly puritani*al# .t was a natural p!enomenon, t!is periodi* rise at intervals of little more t!an a *entury, of as*eti* *reeds in Central Ara ia# Always t!e votaries found t!eir neig! ours? eliefs *luttered wit! inessential t!ings, w!i*! e*ame impious in t!e !ot imagination of t!eir prea*!ers# Again and again t!ey !ad arisen, !ad ta&en possession, soul and ody, of t!e tri es, and !ad das!ed t!emselves to pie*es on t!e ur an Semites, mer*!ants and *on*upis*ent men of t!e world# A out t!eir *omforta le possessions t!e new *reeds e ed and flowed li&e t!e tides or t!e *!anging seasons, ea*! movement wit! t!e seeds of early deat! in its e3*ess of (ig!tness# Dou tless t!ey must re*ur so long as t!e *auses--sun, moon, wind, a*ting in t!e emptiness of open spa*es, weig! wit!out *!e*& on t!e un!urried and un*um ered minds of t!e desert-dwellers# $owever, t!is afternoon t!e Ageyl were not t!in&ing of God, ut of us, and as i n Da&!il ranged t!em to t!e rig!t and left t!ey fell eagerly into ran&# (!ere *ame a warning patter from t!e drums and t!e poet of t!e rig!t wing urst into strident song, a single invented *ouplet, of :eisal and t!e pleasures !e would afford us at 'e>!# (!e rig!t wing listened to t!e verse intently, too& it up and sang it toget!er on*e, twi*e and t!ree times, wit! pride and self-satisfa*tion and derision# $owever, efore t!ey *ould randis! it a fourt! time t!e poet of t!e left wing ro&e out in e3tempore reply, in t!e same metre, in answering r!yme, and *apping t!e sentiment# (!e left wing *!eered it in a roar of triump!, t!e drums tapped again, t!e standard- earers t!rew out t!eir great *rimson anners, and t!e w!ole guard, rig!t, left and *entre, ro&e toget!er into t!e rousing regimental *!orus, .?ve lost %ritain, and .?ve lost Gaul, .?ve lost "ome, and, worst of all, .?ve lost 2alage--? only it was 0e>d t!ey !ad lost, and t!e women of t!e Maa da, and t!eir future lay from /idda towards Sue+# 1et it was a good song, wit! a r!yt!mi*al eat w!i*! t!e *amels loved, so t!at t!ey put down t!eir !eads, stret*!ed t!eir ne*&s out far and wit! lengt!ened pa*e s!uffled forward musingly w!ile it lasted# 8ur road to-day was easy for t!em, sin*e it was over firm sand slopes, long, slowly-rising waves of dunes, are- a*&ed, ut for s*ru in t!e folds, or arren palm-trees solitary in t!e moist depressions# Afterwards in a road flat, two !orsemen *ame *antering a*ross from t!e left to greet :eisal# . &new t!e first one, dirty old lear-eyed Mo!ammed A!? el %eidawi, 4mir of t!e /u!eina- ut t!e se*ond loo&ed strange# '!en !e *ame nearer . saw !e was in &!a&i uniform, wit! a *loa& to *over it and a sil& !ead-*lot! and !ead-rope, mu*! awry# $e loo&ed up, and t!ere was 0ew*om e?s red and peeling fa*e, wit! straining eyes and ve!ement mout!, a strong, !umorous grin etween t!e >aws# $e !ad arrived at 9m 2e>> t!is morning, and !earing we were only >ust off, !ad sei+ed S!ei&! 1u-suf?s fastest !orse and galloped after us# . offered !im my spare *amel and an introdu*tion to :eisal, w!om !e greeted li&e an old s*!oolfriend) and at on*e t!ey plunged into t!e midst of t!ings, suggesting, de ating, planning at lig!tning speed# 0ew*om e?s initial velo*ity was enormous, and t!e fres!ness of t!e day and t!e life and !appiness of t!e Army gave inspiration to t!e mar*! and roug!t t!e future u ling out of us wit!out pain# 'e passed G!owas!ia, a ragged grove of palms, and mar*!ed over a lava-field easily, its roug!nesses eing drowned in sand >ust deep enoug! to smoot! t!em, ut not deep enoug! to e too soft# (!e tops of t!e !ig!est lava-piles s!owed t!roug!# An !our later we *ame suddenly to a *rest w!i*! dropped as a sand slope, a rupt and swept and straig!t enoug! to e *alled a sand-*liff, into a road splendid valley of rounded pe les# (!is was Semna, and our road went down t!e steep, t!roug! terra*es of palms# (!e wind !ad een following our mar*!, and so it was very still and warm at ottom of t!e valley in

lee of t!e great an& of sand# $ere was our water, and !ere we would !alt till t!e s*outs returned from see&ing rain-pools in front of us) for so A d el ;erim, our *!ief guide, !ad advised# 'e rode t!e four !undred yards a*ross t!e valley and up t!e furt!er slopes till we were safe from floods, and t!ere :eisal tapped !is *amel lig!tly on t!e ne*& till s!e san& to !er &nees wit! a s*rape of s!ingle pus!ed aside, and settled !erself# $e>ris spread t!e *arpet for us, and wit! t!e ot!er S!erifs we sat and >ested w!ile t!e *offee was made !ot# . maintained against :eisal t!e greatness of . ra!im ,as!a, leader of Milli-;urds, in 0ort! Mesopotamia# '!en !e was to mar*!, !is women rose efore dawn, and footing noiselessly over!ead on t!e taut tent*lot!, uns&ewered t!e strips of it, w!ile ot!ers eneat! !eld and removed t!e poles till all was stru*& and divided into *amel-loads, and loaded# (!en t!ey drove off, so t!at t!e ,as!a awo&e alone on !is pallet in t!e open air w!ere at nig!t !e !ad lain down in t!e ri*! inner *ompartment of !is pala*e-tent# $e would get up at leisure and drin& *offee on !is *arpet- and afterwards t!e !orses woul d e roug!t, and t!ey would ride towards t!e new *amping ground# %ut if on !is way !e t!irsted !e would *risp !is fingers to t!e servants, and t!e *offee man would ride up eside !im wit! !is pots ready and !is ra+ier urning on a *opper ra*&et of t!e saddle, to serve t!e *up on t!e mar*! wit!out rea&ing stride) and at sunset t!ey would find t!e women waiting in t!e ere*ted tent, as it !ad een on t!e evening efore# (o-day !ad a grey weat!er, so strange after t!e many t!ronging suns, t!at 0ew*om e and . wal&ed stooping to loo& w!ere our s!adows !ad gone, as we tal&ed of w!at . !oped, and of w!at !e wanted# (!ey were t!e same t!ing, so we !ad rain-leisure to note Semna and its fine groves of *ared-for palms etween little !edges of dead t!orn) wit! !ere and t!ere !uts of reed and palm-ri , to s!elter t!e owners and t!eir families at times of fertili+ation and !arvest# .n t!e lowest gardens and in t!e valley ed were t!e s!allow wood-lined wells, w!ose water was, t!ey said, fairly sweet and never-failingut so little fluent t!at to water our !ost of *amels too& t!e nig!t# :eisal wrote letters from Semna to twenty-five leaders of t!e %illi and $oweitat and %eni Atiye!, saying t!at !e wit! !is army would e instantly in 'e>! and t!ey must see to it# Mo!ammed Ali estirred !imself, and sin*e almost all our men were of !is tri e, was useful in arranging t!e deta*!ments and detailing t!em t!eir routes for t!e morrow# 8ur water-s*outs !ad *ome in, to report s!allow pools at two points well-spa*ed on t!e *oast road# After *ross-@uestioning t!em we de*ided to send four se*tions t!at way, and t!e ot!er five y t!e !ills- in su*! a fas!ion we t!oug!t we s!ould arrive soonest and safest at A u Gerei at# (!e route was not easy to de*ide wit! t!e poor !elp of t!e Musa /u!eina, our informants# (!ey seemed to !ave no unit of time smaller t!an t!e !alf-day, or of distan*e etween t!e span and t!e stage) and a stage mig!t e from si3 to si3teen !ours a**ording to t!e man?s will and *amel# .nter*ommuni*ation etween our units was !indered e*ause often t!ere was no one w!o *ould read or write, in eit!er# Delay, *onfusion, !unger and t!irst marred t!is e3pedition# (!ese mig!t !ave een avoided !ad time let us e3amine t!e route efore!and# (!e animals were wit!out food for nearly t!ree days, and t!e men mar*!ed t!e last fifty miles on !alf a gallon of water, wit! not!ing to eat# .t did not in any way dim t!eir spirit, and t!ey trotted into 'e>! gaily enoug!, !oarsely singing, and e3e*uting mo*& *!arges- ut :eisal said t!at anot!er !ot and arren midday would !ave ro&en ot! t!eir speed and t!eir energy# '!en usiness ended, 0ew*om e and . went off to sleep in t!e tent :eisal !ad lent us as a spe*ial lu3ury# %aggage *onditions were so !ard and important for us t!at we ri*! too& pride in faring li&e t!e men, w!o *ould not transport unne*essary t!ings- and never efore !ad . !ad a tent of my own# 'e pit*!ed it at t!e very edge of a luff of t!e foot!ills) a luff no wider t!an t!e tent and rounded, so t!at t!e slope went straig!t down from t!e pegs of t!e door-flap# (!ere we found sitting and waiting for us A d el ;erim, t!e young %eidawi S!erif, wrapped up to t!e eyes in !is !ead-*lot! and *loa&, sin*e t!e evening was *!ill and t!reatened rain# $e !ad *ome to as& me for a mule, wit! saddle and ridle#

(!e smart appearan*e of Maulud?s little *ompany in ree*!es and puttees, and t!eir fine new animals in t!e mar&et at 9m 2e>>, !ad roused !is desire# . played wit! !is eagerness, and put !im off, advan*ing a *ondition t!at !e s!ould as& me after our su**essful arrival at 'e>!) and wit! t!is !e was *ontent# 'e !ungered for sleep, and at last !e rose to go, ut, *!an*ing to loo& a*ross t!e valley, saw t!e !ollows eneat! and a out us win&ing wit! t!e faint *amp-fires of t!e s*attered *ontingents# $e *alled me out to loo&, and swept !is arm round, saying !alf-sadly, ?'e are no longer Ara s ut a ,eople?# $e was !alf-proud too, for t!e advan*e on 'e>! was t!eir iggest effort) t!e first time in memory t!at t!e man!ood of a tri e, wit! transport, arms, and food for two !undred miles, !ad left its distri*t and mar*!ed into anot!er?s territory wit!out t!e !ope of plunder or t!e stimulus of lood feud# A d el ;erim was glad t!at !is tri e !ad s!own t!is new spirit of servi*e, ut also sorry) for to !im t!e >oys of life were a fast *amel, t!e est weapons, and a s!ort s!arp raid against !is neig! our?s !erd- and t!e gradual a*!ievement of :eisal?s am ition was ma&ing su*! >oys less and less easy for t!e responsi le#

&()PTE" ..+
During t!e morning it rained persistently) and we were glad to see more water *oming to us, and so *omforta le in t!e tents at Semna t!at we delayed our start till t!e sun s!one again in t!e early afternoon# (!en we rode westward down t!e valley in t!e fres! lig!t# :irst e!ind us *ame t!e Ageyl# After t!em A d el ;erim led !is Gufa men, a out seven !undred of t!em mounted, wit! more t!an t!at num er following afoot# (!ey were dressed in w!ite, wit! large !ead-s!awls of red and la*& striped *otton, and t!ey waved green palm- ran*!es instead of anners# 0e3t to t!em rode S!erif Mo!ammed Ali a u S!arrain, an old patriar*! wit! a long, *urling grey eard and an uprig!t *arriage of !imself# $is t!ree !undred riders were As!raf, of t!e Aiais!i B/u!einaC sto*&, &nown S!erifs, ut only a*&nowledged in t!e mass, sin*e t!ey !ad not ins*ri ed pedigrees# (!ey wore rusty-red tuni*s !enna-dyed, under la*& *loa&s, and *arried swords# 4a*! !ad a slave *rou*!ed e!ind !im on t!e *rupper to !elp !im wit! rifle and dagger in t!e fig!t, and to wat*! !is *amel and *oo& for !im on t!e road# (!e slaves, as efitted slaves of poor masters, were very little dressed# (!eir strong, la*& legs gripped t!e *amels? woolly sides as in a vi*e, to lessen t!e s!o*&s inevita le on t!eir ony per*!es, w!ile t!ey !ad &notted up t!eir rags of s!irts into t!e plaited t!ong a out t!eir loins to save t!em from t!e fouling of t!e *amels and t!eir staling on t!e mar*!# Semna water was medi*inal, and our animals? dung flowed li&e green soup down t!eir !o*&s t!at day# %e!ind t!e As!raf *ame t!e *rimson anner of our last tri al deta*!ment, t!e "ifaa, under 8wdi i n Guweid, t!e old w!eedling sea-pirate w!o !ad ro ed t!e Stot+ingen Mission and t!rown t!eir wireless and t!eir .ndian servants into t!e sea at 1en o# (!e s!ar&s presuma ly refused t!e wireless, ut we !ad spent fruitless !ours dragging for it in t!e !ar our# 8wdi still wore a long, ri*!, fur-lined German offi*er?s great*oat, a garment little suited to t!e *limate ut, as !e insisted, magnifi*ent ooty# $e !ad a out a t!ousand men, t!ree-@uarters of t!em on foot, and ne3t !im mar*!ed "asim, t!e gunner *ommandant, wit! !is four old ;rupp guns on t!e pa*&-mules, >ust as we !ad lifted t!em from t!e 4gyptian Army# "asim was a sardoni* Damas*ene, w!o rose laug!ing to every *risis and slun& a out sore-!eaded wit! grievan*es w!en t!ings went well# 8n t!is day t!ere were dreadful murmurings, for alongside !im rode A dulla el Deleimi, in *!arge of ma*!ine-guns, a @ui*&, *lever, superfi*ial ut attra*tive offi*er, mu*! of t!e professional type, w!ose great >oy was to develop some ran&ling sorrow in "asim till it dis*!arged full last on :eisal or myself# (o-day . !elped !im y smiling to "asim t!at we were moving at intervals of a @uarter-day in e*!elon of su -tri es# "asim loo&ed over t!e new-was!ed underwood, w!ere raindrops glistened in t!e lig!t of t!e sun setting redly a*ross t!e waves elow a *eiling of *louds, and loo&ed too at t!e wild mo of %eduins ra*ing !ere and t!ere on foot after irds and ra its and giant li+ards and >er oas and one anot!er- and assented sourly, saying t!at !e too would s!ortly e*ome a su -tri e, and e*!elon !imself !alf a day to one side or ot!er, and e @uit of

flies# At first starting a man in t!e *rowd !ad s!ot a !are from t!e saddle, ut e*ause of t!e ris& of wild s!ooting :eisal !ad t!en for idden it, and t!ose later put up y our *amels? feet were *!ased wit! sti*&s# 'e laug!ed at t!e sudden *ommotion in t!e mar*!ing *ompanies- *ries, and *amels swerving violently, t!eir riders leaping off and laying out wildly wit! t!eir *anes to &ill or to e pi*&ers-up of a &ill# :eisal was !appy to see t!e army win so mu*! meat, ut disgusted at t!e s!ameless /u!eina appetite for li+ards and >er oas# 'e rode over t!e flat sand, among t!e t!orn trees, w!i*! !ere were plentiful and large, till we *ame out on t!e sea- ea*! and turned nort!ward along a road, well- eaten tra*&, t!e 4gyptian pilgrim road# .t ran wit!in fifty yards of t!e sea, and we *ould go up it t!irty or forty singing files a reast# An old lava- ed !alf uried in sand >utted out from t!e !ills four or five miles inland, and made a promontory# (!e road *ut a*ross t!is, ut at t!e near side were some mud flats, on w!i*! s!allow rea*!es of water urned in t!e last lig!t of t!e west# (!is was our e3pe*ted stage, and :eisal signalled t!e !alt# 'e got off our *amels and stret*!ed ourselves, sat down or wal&ed efore supper to t!e sea and at!ed y !undreds, a splas!ing, s*reaming, mo of fis!-li&e na&ed men of all eart!?s *olours# Supper was to loo& forward to, as a /u!eina t!at afternoon !ad s!ot a ga+elle for :eisal# Ga+elle meat we found etter t!an any ot!er in t!e desert, e*ause t!is east, !owever arren t!e land and dry t!e water-!oles, seemed to own always a fat >ui*y ody# (!e meal was t!e e3pe*ted su**ess# 'e retired early, feeling too full- ut soon after 0ew*om e and myself !ad stret*!ed out in our tent we were @ui*&ened y a wave of e3*itement travelling up t!e lines) running *amels, s!ots, and s!outs# A reat!less slave t!rust !is !ead under t!e flap *rying, ?0ewsA newsA S!erif %ey is ta&en?# . >umped up and ran t!roug! t!e gat!ering *rowd to :eisal?s tent, w!i*! was already eset y friends and servants# 'it! :eisal sat, portentously and unnaturally *olle*ted in t!e din, "a>a, t!e tri esman w!o !ad ta&en to A dulla word to move into 'adi Ais# :eisal was radiant, !is eyes swollen wit! >oy, as !e >umped up and s!outed to me t!roug! t!e voi*es, ?A dulla !as *aptured 4s!ref %ey?# (!en . &new !ow ig and good t!e event was# 4s!ref was a notorious adventurer in t!e lower levels of (ur&is! politi*s# .n !is oy!ood, near !is Smyrna !ome, !e !ad een >ust a rigand, ut wit! years !e e*ame a revolutionary, and w!en !e was finally *aptured A d el $amid e3iled !im to Medina for five *oloured years# At first !e was *losely *onfined t!ere, ut one day !e ro&e t!e privy window and es*aped to S!e!ad, t!e i ulous 4mir, in !is su ur of Awali# S!a!ad was, as usual, at war wit! t!e (ur&s and gave !im san*tuary) ut 4s!ref, finding M4 dull, at last orrowed a fine mare and rode to t!e (ur&is! arra*&s# 8n its s@uare was t!e offi*er-son of !is enemy t!e Governor drilling a *ompany of gendarmes# $e galloped !im down, slung !im a*ross !is saddle, and made away efore t!e astonis!ed poli*e *ould protest# $e too& to /e el 8!od, an unin!a ited pla*e, driving !is prisoner efore !im, *alling !im !is ass, and lading upon !im t!irty loaves and t!e s&ins of water ne*essary for t!eir nouris!ment# (o re*over !is son, t!e ,as!a gave 4s!ref li erty on parole and five !undred pounds# $e oug!t *amels, a tent, and a wife, and wandered among t!e tri es till t!e 1oung (ur& revolution# (!en !e reappeared in Constantinople and e*ame a ravo, doing 4nver?s murders# $is servi*es earned t!e appointment of inspe*tor of refugee-relief in Ma*edonia, and !e retired a year later wit! an assured in*ome from landed estate# '!en war ro&e out !e went down to Medina wit! funds, and letters from t!e Sultan to Ara ian neutrals) !is mission eing to open *ommuni*ations wit! t!e isolated (ur&is! garrison in 1emen# $is tra*& on t!e first stage of t!e >ourney !ad !appened to *ross A dulla?s, on !is way to 'adi Ais, near ;!ei ar, and some of t!e Ara s, wat*!ing t!eir *amels during a midday !alt, !ad een stopped y 4s!ref?s men and @uestioned# (!ey said t!ey were $eteym, and A dulla?s army a supply *aravan going to Medina# 4s!ref released one wit! orders to ring t!e rest for e3amination, and t!is man told A dulla of soldiers *amped up on t!e !ill# A dulla was pu++led and sent !orsemen to investigate# A minute later !e was startled y t!e sudden

*!atter of a ma*!ine-gun# $e leaped to t!e *on*lusion t!at t!e (ur&s !ad sent out a flying *olumn to *ut !im off, and ordered !is mounted men to *!arge t!em desperately# (!ey galloped over t!e ma*!ine-gun, wit! few *asualties, and s*attered t!e (ur&s# 4s!ref fled on foot to t!e !ill-top# A dulla offered a reward of a t!ousand pounds for !im) and near dus& !e was found, wounded, and *aptured y S!erif :au+an el $arit!, in a stiff fig!t# .n t!e aggage were twenty t!ousand pounds in *oin, ro es of !onour, *ostly presents, some interesting papers, and *amel loads of rifles and pistols# A dulla wrote an e3ultant letter to :a&!ri ,as!a Btelling !im of t!e *aptureC, and nailed it to an uprooted telegrap! pole etween t!e metals, w!en !e *rossed t!e railway ne3t nig!t on !is unimpeded way to 'adi Ais# "a>a !ad left !im t!ere, *amped in @uiet and in ease# (!e news was a dou le fortune for us# %etween t!e >oyful men slipped t!e sad figure of t!e .mam, w!o raised !is !and# Silen*e fell for an instant# $ear me,? !e said, and intoned an ode in praise of t!e event, to t!e effe*t t!at A dulla was espe*ially favoured, and !ad attained @ui*&ly to t!e glory w!i*! :eisal was winning slowly ut surely y !ard wor&# (!e poem was *redita le as t!e issue of only si3teen minutes, and t!e poet was rewarded in gold# (!en :eisal saw a gaudy >ewelled dagger at "a>a?s elt# "a>a stammered it was 4s!ref?s# :eisal t!rew !im !is own and pulled t!e ot!er off, to give it in t!e end to Colonel 'ilson# '!at did my rot!er say to 4s!refJ? .s t!is your return for our !ospitalityJ? '!ile 4s!ref !ad replied li&e Su*&ling, ?. *an fig!t, '!et!er . am t!e wrong or rig!t, DevoutlyA? ?$ow many millions did t!e Ara s getJ? gasped greedy old Mo!ammed Ali, w!en !e !eard of A dulla to t!e el ows in t!e *aptured *!est, flinging gold y !andfuls to t!e tri es# "a>a was everyw!ere in !ot demand, and !e slept a ri*!er man t!at nig!t, deservedly, for A dulla?s mar*! to Ais made t!e Medina situation sure# 'it! Murray pressing in Sinai, :eisal nearing 'e>!, and A dulla etween 'e>! and Medina, t!e position of t!e (ur&s in Ara ia e*ame defensive only# (!e tide of our illfortune !ad turned) and t!e *amp seeing our glad fa*es was noisy until dawn# 0e3t day we rode easily# A rea&fast suggested itself, upon our finding some more little water-pools, in a are valley flowing down from 4l Su&!ur, a group of t!ree e3traordinary !ills li&e granite u les lown t!roug! t!e eart!# (!e >ourney was pleasant, for it was *ool) t!ere were a lot of us) and we two 4nglis!men !ad a tent in w!i*! we *ould s!ut ourselves up and e alone# A weariness of t!e desert was t!e living always in *ompany, ea*! of t!e party !earing all t!at was said and seeing all t!at was done y t!e ot!ers day and nig!t# 1et t!e *raving for solitude seemed part of t!e delusion of selfsuffi*ien*y, a fa*titious ma&ing-rare of t!e person to en!an*e its strangeness in its own estimation# (o !ave priva*y, as 0ew*om e and . !ad, was ten t!ousand times more restful t!an t!e open life, ut t!e wor& suffered y t!e *reation of su*! a ar etween t!e leaders and men# Among t!e Ara s t!ere were no distin*tions, traditional or natural, e3*ept t!e un*ons*ious power given a famous s!ei&! y virtue of !is a**omplis!ment) and t!ey taug!t me t!at no man *ould e t!eir leader e3*ept !e ate t!e ran&s? food, wore t!eir *lot!es, lived level wit! t!em, and yet appeared etter in !imself# .n t!e morning we pressed towards A u Gerei at wit! t!e early sun in*andes*ent in a *loudless s&y, and t!e usual eye-ra*&ing da++le and dan*e of sun eams on polis!ed sand or polis!ed flint# 8ur pat! rose slig!tly at a s!arp limestone ridge wit! eroded flan&s, and we loo&ed over a sweeping fall of are, la*& gravel etween us and t!e sea, w!i*! now lay a out eig!t miles to t!e westward- ut invisi le# 8n*e we !alted and egan to feel t!at a great depression lay in front of us) ut not till two in t!e afternoon after we !ad *rossed a asalt out*rop did we loo& out over a troug! fifteen miles a*ross, w!i*! was 'adi $amd!, es*aped from t!e !ills# 8n t!e nort!-west spread t!e great delta t!roug! w!i*! $amd! spilled itself y twenty mout!s) and we saw t!e dar& lines, w!i*! were t!i*&ets of s*ru in t!e flood *!annels of t!e dried eds, twisting in and out a*ross t!e flat from t!e !ill-edge eneat! us, till t!ey were lost in t!e sun-!a+e t!irty miles away eyond us to our left, near t!e invisi le sea# %e!ind $amd! rose s!eer from t!e plain a dou le !ill, /e el "aal- !og- a*&ed ut for a gas! w!i*! split it in t!e middle# (o our eyes, sated wit! small t!ings, it was a fair sig!t, t!is end of a dry river longer t!an t!e (igris) t!e greatest valley in Ara ia, first understood y Doug!ty, and as yet

une3plored) w!ile "aal was a fine !ill, s!arp and distin*tive, w!i*! did !onour to t!e $amd!# :ull of e3pe*tation we rode down t!e gravel slopes, on w!i*! tufts of grass e*ame more fre@uent, till at t!ree o?*lo*& we entered t!e 'adi itself# .t proved a ed a out a mile wide, filled wit! *lumps of asla us!es, round w!i*! *lung sandy !illo*&s ea*! a few feet !ig!# (!eir sand was not pure, ut seamed wit! lines of dry and rittle *lay, last indi*ations of old flood levels# (!ese divided t!em s!arply into layers, rotten wit! salty mud and fla&ing away, so t!at our *amels san& in, fetlo*&-deep, wit! a *run*!ing noise li&e rea&ing pastry# (!e dust rose up in t!i*& *louds, t!i*&ened yet more y t!e sunlig!t !eld in t!em) for t!e dead air of t!e !ollow was a-da++le# (!e ran&s e!ind *ould not see w!ere t!ey were going, w!i*! was diffi*ult for t!em, as t!e !illo*&s *ame *loser toget!er, and t!e river- ed slit into a ma+e of s!allow *!annels, t!e wor& of partial floods year after year# %efore we gained t!e middle of t!e valley everyt!ing was over-grown y rus!wood, w!i*! sprouted sideways from t!e mounds and la*ed one to anot!er wit! tangled twigs as dry, dusty and rittle as old one# 'e tu*&ed in t!e streamers of our gaudy saddle- ags, to prevent t!eir eing >er&ed off y t!e us!es, drew *loa&s tig!t over our *lot!es, ent our !eads down to guard our eyes and *ras!ed t!roug! li&e a storm amongst reeds# (!e dust was linding and *!o&ing, and t!e snapping of t!e ran*!es, grum les of t!e *amels, s!outs and laug!ter of t!e men, made a rare adventure#

&()PTE" ..+I
%efore we @uite rea*!ed t!e far an& t!e ground suddenly *leared at a *lay ottom, in w!i*! stood a deep rown water-pool, eig!ty yards long and a out fifteen yards wide# (!is was t!e flood-water of A u Gerei at, our goal# 'e went a few yards furt!er, t!roug! t!e last s*ru , and rea*!ed t!e open nort! an& w!ere :eisal !ad appointed t!e *amp# .t was a !uge plain of sand and flints, running to t!e very feet of "aal, wit! room on it for all t!e armies of Ara ia# So we stopped our *amels, and t!e slaves unloaded t!em and set up t!e tents) w!ile we wal&ed a*& to see t!e mules, t!irsty after t!eir long day?s mar*!, rus! wit! t!e foot-soldiers into t!e pond, &i*&ing and splas!ing wit! pleasure in t!e sweet water# (!e a undan*e of fuel was an added !appiness, and in w!atever pla*e t!ey *!ose to *amp ea*! group of friends !ad a roaring fire--very wel*ome, as a wet evening mist rose eig!t feet out of t!e ground and our woollen *loa&s stiffened and grew *old wit! its silver eads in t!eir *oarse woof# .t was a la*& nig!t, moonless, ut a ove t!e fog very rilliant wit! stars# 8n a little mound near our tents we *olle*ted and loo&ed over t!e rolling w!ite seas of fog# 8ut of it arose tent-pea&s, and tall spires of melting smo&e, w!i*! e*ame luminous underneat! w!en t!e flames li*&ed !ig!er into t!e *lean air, as if driven y t!e noises of t!e unseen army# 8ld Auda i n Guweid *orre*ted me gravely w!en . said t!is to !im, telling me, ?.t is not an army, it is a world w!i*! is moving on 'e>!?# . re>oi*ed at !is insisten*e, for it !ad een to *reate t!is very feeling t!at we !ad !ampered ourselves wit! an unwieldy *rowd of men on so diffi*ult a mar*!# (!at evening t!e %illi egan to *ome in to us s!yly, and swear fealty, for t!e $amd! <alley was t!eir oundary# Amongst t!em $amid el %ifada rode up wit! a numerous *ompany to pay !is respe*ts to :eisal# $e told us t!at !is *ousin, Suleiman ,as!a, t!e paramount of t!e tri e, was at A u A>a>, fifteen miles nort! of us, trying desperately for on*e to ma&e up t!e mind w!i*! !ad *!opped and alan*ed profita ly t!roug!out a long life# (!en, wit!out warning or parade, S!erif 0asir of Medina *ame in# :eisal leaped up and em ra*ed !im, and led !im over to us# 0asir made a splendid impression, mu*! as we !ad !eard, and mu*! as we were e3pe*ting of !im# $e was t!e opener of roads, t!e forerunner of :eisal?s movement, t!e man w!o !ad fired !is first s!ot in Medina, and w!o was to fire our last s!ot at Muslimie! eyond Aleppo on t!e day t!at (ur&ey as&ed for an armisti*e, and from eginning to end all t!at *ould e told of !im was good# $e was a rot!er of S!e!ad, t!e 4mir of Medina# (!eir family was des*ended from $ussein, t!e younger of Ali?s *!ildren, and t!ey were t!e only des*endants of $ussein *onsidered As!raf, not Saada# (!ey were S!ias, and !ad een sin*e t!e days of ;er ela, and in $e>a+ were respe*ted only

se*ond to t!e 4mirs of Me**a# 0asir !imself was a man of gardens, w!ose lot !ad een unwilling war sin*e oy!ood# $e was now a out twenty-seven# $is low, road fore!ead mat*!ed !is sensitive eyes, w!ile !is wea& pleasant mout! and small *!in were *learly seen t!roug! a *lipped la*& eard# $e !ad een up !ere for two mont!s, *ontaining 'e>!, and !is last news was t!at t!e outpost of (ur&is! *amel *orps upon our road !ad wit!drawn t!at morning towards t!e main defensive position# 'e slept late t!e following day, to ra*e ourselves for t!e ne*essary !ours of tal&# :eisal *arried most of t!is upon !is own s!oulders# 0asir supported !im as se*ond in *ommand, and t!e %eidawi rot!ers sat y to !elp# (!e day was rig!t and warm, t!reatening to e !ot later, and 0ew*om e and . wandered a out loo&ing at t!e watering, t!e men, and t!e *onstant affluen*e of new*omers# '!en t!e sun was !ig! a great *loud of dust from t!e east !eralded a larger party and we wal&ed a*& to t!e tents to see Mir+u& el (i&!eimi, :eisal?s s!arp, mouse-featured guest-master, ride in# $e led !is *lansmen of t!e /u!eina past t!e 4mir at a *anter, to ma&e a s!ow# (!ey stifled us wit! t!eir dust, for !is van of a do+en s!ei&!s *arrying a large red flag and a large w!ite flag drew t!eir swords and *!arged round and round our tents# 'e admired neit!er t!eir riding nor t!eir mares- per!aps e*ause t!ey were a nuisan*e to us# A out noon t!e 'uld Mo!ammed $ar , and t!e mounted men of t!e i n S!efia attalion *ame int!ree !undred men, under S!ei&! Sali! and Mo!ammed i n S!efia# Mo!ammed was a tu y, vulgar little man of fifty-five, *ommon-sensi le and energeti*# $e was rapidly ma&ing a name for !imself in t!e Ara army, for !e would get done any manual wor&# $is men were t!e sweepings of 'adi 1en o, landless and wit!out family, or la ouring 1en o townsmen, !ampered y no in!erited dignity# (!ey were more do*ile t!an any ot!er of our troops e3*ept t!e w!ite-!anded Ageyl w!o were too eautiful to e made into la ourers# 'e were already two days e!ind our promise to t!e 0avy, and 0ew*om e de*ided to ride a!ead t!is nig!t to $a an# (!ere !e would meet %oyle and e3plain t!at we must fail t!e ,ardinge at t!e rende+vous, ut would e glad if s!e *ould return t!ere on t!e evening of t!e twenty-fourt!, w!en we s!ould arrive mu*! in need of water# $e would also see if t!e naval atta*& *ould not e delayed till t!e twenty-fift! to preserve t!e >oint s*!eme# After dar& t!ere *ame a message from Suleiman "ifada, wit! a gift-*amel for :eisal to &eep if !e were friendly, and to send a*& if !ostile# :eisal was ve3ed, and protested !is ina ility to understand so fee le a man# 0asir asserted, ?8!, it?s e*ause !e eats fis!# :is! swells t!e !ead, and su*! e!aviour follows?# (!e Syrians and Mesopotamians, and men of /idda and 1en o laug!ed loudly, to s!ew t!at t!ey did not s!are t!is elief of t!e upland Ara , t!at a man of !is !ands was disgra*ed y tasting t!e t!ree mean foods--*!i*&ens, eggs and fis!# :eisal said, wit! mo*& gravity, ?1ou insult t!e *ompany, we 'ee fis!?# 8t!ers protested, 'e a andon it, and ta&e refuge in God?, and Mir+u& to *!ange t!e *urrent said, ?Suleiman is an unnatural irt!, neit!er raw nor ripe?# .n t!e morning, early, we mar*!ed in a straggle for t!ree !ours down 'adi $amd!# (!en t!e valley went to t!e left, and we stru*& out a*ross a !ollow, desolate, featureless region# (o-day was *old- a !ard nort! wind drove into our fa*es down t!e grey *oast# As we mar*!ed we !eard intermittent !eavy firing from t!e dire*tion of 'e>!, and feared t!at t!e 0avy !ad lost patien*e and were a*ting wit!out us# $owever, we *ould not ma&e up t!e days we !ad wasted, so we pus!ed on for t!e w!ole dull stage, *rossing affluent after affluent of $amd!# (!e plain was striped wit! t!ese wadies, all s!allow and straig!t and are, as many and as intri*ate as t!e veins in a leaf# At last we re-entered $amd!, at ;urna, and t!oug! its *lay ottoms !eld only mud, de*ided to *amp# '!ile we were settling in t!ere was a sudden rus!# Camels !ad een seen pasturing away to t!e east, and t!e energeti* of t!e /u!eina streamed out, *aptured t!em, and drove t!em in# :eisal was furious, and s!outed to t!em to stop, ut t!ey were too e3*ited to !ear !im# $e snat*!ed !is rifle, and s!ot at t!e nearest man) w!o, in fear, tum led out of !is saddle, so t!at t!e ot!ers *!e*&ed t!eir *ourse# :eisal !ad t!em up efore !im, laid a out t!e prin*ipals wit! !is *amel-sti*&, and impounded t!e stolen *amels and t!ose of t!e t!ieves till t!e w!ole tally was *omplete# (!en !e !anded t!e easts a*& to

t!eir %illi owners# $ad !e not done so it would !ave involved t!e /u!eina in a private war wit! t!e %illi, our !oped-for allies of t!e morrow, and mig!t !ave *!e*&ed e3tension eyond 'e>!# 8ur su**ess lay in ond to su*! tr ifles# 0e3t morning we made for t!e ea*!, and up it to $a an at four o?*lo*&# (!e ,ardinge was duly t!ere, to our relief, and landing water- alt!oug! t!e s!allow ay gave little s!elter, and t!e roug! sea rolling in made oat-wor& !a+ardous# 'e reserved first *all for t!e mules, and gave w!at water was left to t!e more t!irsty of t!e footmen) ut it was a diffi*ult nig!t, and *rowds of suffering men lingered >ostling a out t!e tan&s in t!e rays of t!e sear*!lig!t, !oping for anot!er drin&, if t!e sailors s!ould venture in again# . went on oard, and !eard t!at t!e naval atta*& !ad een *arried out as t!oug! t!e land army were present, sin*e %oyle feared t!e (ur&s would run away if !e waited# As a matter of fa*t, t!e day we rea*!ed A u Gerei at, A!med (ewfl& %ey, (ur&is! Governor, !ad addressed t!e garrison, saying t!at 'e>! must e !eld to t!e last drop of lood# (!en at dus& !e !ad got on to !is *amel and ridden off to t!e railway wit! t!e few mounted men fit for flig!t# (!e two !undred infantry determined to do !is a andoned duty against t!e landing party) ut t!ey were outnum ered t!ree to one, and t!e naval gunfire was too !eavy to let t!em ma&e proper use of t!eir positions# So far as t!e ,ardinge &new, t!e fig!ting was not ended, ut 'e>! town !ad een o**upied y seamen and Sale!?s Ara s#

&()PTE" ..+II
,rofita le rumours e3*ited t!e army, w!i*! egan to tri*&le off nort!ward soon after midnig!t# At dawn we rallied t!e various *ontingents in 'adi Miya, twelve miles sout! of t!e town, and advan*ed on it in order, meeting a few s*attered (ur&s, of w!om one party put up a s!ort resistan*e# (!e Ageyl dismounted, to strip off t!eir *loa&s, !ead-*lot!s and s!irts) and went on in rown !alf-na&edness, w!i*! t!ey said would ensure *lean wounds if t!ey were !it- also t!eir pre*ious *lot!es would not e damaged# . n Da&!il in *ommand o tained a @uiet regularity of o edien*e# (!ey advan*ed y alternate *ompanies, in open order, at intervals of four or five yards, wit! even-num ered *ompanies in support, ma&ing good use of t!e poor *over w!i*! e3isted# .t was pretty to loo& at t!e neat, rown men in t!e sunlit sandy valley, wit! t!e tur@uoise pool of salt water in t!e midst to set off t!e *rimson anners w!i*! two standard earers *arried in t!e van# (!ey went along in a steady lope, *overing t!e ground at nearly si3 miles an !our, dead silent, and rea*!ed and *lim ed t!e ridge wit!out a s!ot fired# So we &new t!e wor& !ad een finis!ed for us and trotted forward to find t!e oy Sale!, son of i n S!efia, in possession of t!e town# $e told us t!at !is *asualties !ad een nearly twenty &illed) and later we !eard t!at a %ritis! lieutenant of t!e Air Servi*e !ad een mortally wounded in a seaplane re*onnaissan*e, and one %ritis! seaman !urt in t!e foot# <i*&ery, w!o !ad dire*ted t!e attle, was satisfied, ut . *ould not s!are !is satisfa*tion# (o me an unne*essary a*tion, or s!ot, or *asualty, was not only waste ut sin# . was una le to ta&e t!e professional view t!at all su**essful a*tions were gains# 8ur re els were not materials, li&e soldiers, ut friends of ours, trusting our leaders!ip# 'e were not in *ommand nationally, ut y invitation) and our men were volunteers, individuals, lo*al men, relatives, so t!at a deat! was a personal sorrow to many in t!e army# 4ven from t!e purely military point of view t!e assault seemed to me a lunder# (!e two !undred (ur&s in 'e>! !ad no transport and no food, and if left alone a few days must !ave surrendered# $ad t!ey es*aped, it would not !ave mattered t!e value of an Ara life# 'e wanted 'e>! as a ase against t!e railway and to e3tend our front) t!e smas!ing and &i lling in it !ad een wanton# (!e pla*e was in*onveniently smas!ed# .ts townspeople !ad een warned y :eisal of t!e *oming atta*&, and advised eit!er to forestall it y revolt or to *lear out) ut t!ey were mostly 4gyptians from ;osseir, w!o preferred t!e (ur&s to us, and de*ided to wait t!e issue) so t!e S!efia men and t!e %ias!a found t!e !ouses pa*&ed wit! fair ooty and made a sweep of it# (!ey ro ed t!e s!ops, ro&e open doors, sear*!ed every room, smas!ed *!ests and *up oards, tore down all fi3ed fittings, and slit ea*! mattress and pillow for !idden treasure) w!ile t!e fire of t!e fleet pun*!ed large !oles in every

prominent wall or uilding# 8ur main diffi*ulty was t!e landing of stores# (!e +o% !ad sun& t!e lo*al lig!ters and rowing oats and t!ere was no sort of @uay) ut t!e resour*eful ,ardinge t!rust !erself into t!e !ar our Bw!i*! was wide enoug! ut mu*! too s!ortC and landed our stuff in !er own *utters# 'e raised a tired wor&ing party of i n S!efia followers, and wit! t!eir *lumsy or languid !elp got enoug! food into t!e pla*e for t!e moment?s needs# (!e townspeople !ad returned !ungry, and furious at t!e state of w!at !ad een t!eir property) and egan t!eir revenge y stealing everyt!ing unguarded, even slitting open t!e ri*eags on t!e ea*! and *arrying away @uantities in t!eir !eld-up s&irts# :eisal *orre*ted t!is y ma&ing t!e pitiless Maulud (own-governor# $e roug!t in !is roug!-riders and in one day of w!olesale arrest and summary punis!ment persuaded everyone to leave t!ings alone# After t!at 'e>! !ad t!e silen*e of fear# 4ven in t!e few days w!i*! elapsed efore . left for Cairo t!e profits of our spe*ta*ular mar*! egan to *ome in# (!e Ara movement !ad now no opponent in 'estern Ara ia, and !ad passed eyond danger of *ollapse# (!e ve3ed "a eg! @uestion died- and we !ad learnt t!e first rules of %eduin warfare# '!en regarded a*&ward from our enefits of new &nowledge t!e deat!s of t!ose regretted twenty men in t!e 'e>! streets seemed not so terri le# <i*&ery?s impatien*e was >ustified, per!aps, in *old lood#

,##- T("EE. ) "ailway $iversion

&()PTE"S ..+III T# ...+III
8ur ta&ing 'e>! !ad t!e wis!ed effe*t upon t!e (ur&s, w!o a andoned t!eir advan*e towards Me**a for a passive defen*e of Medina and its railway# 8ur e3perts made plans for atta*&ing t!em# (!e Germans saw t!e danger of envelopment, and persuaded 4nver to order t!e instant eva*uation of Medina# Sir Ar*!i ald Murray egged us to put in a sustained atta*& to destroy t!e retreating enemy# :eisal was soon ready in !is part- and . went off to A dulla to get !is *o-operation# on t!e way . fell si*& and w!ile lying alone wit! empty !ands was driven to t!in& a out t!e *ampaign# (!in&ing *onvin*ed me t!at our re*ent pra*ti*e !ad een etter t!an our t!eory# So on re*overy . did little to t!e railway, ut went a*& to 'e>! wit! novel ideas# . tried to ma&e t!e ot!ers admit t!em, and adopt deployment as our ruling prin*iple) and to put prea*!ing even efore fig!ting# (!ey preferred t!e limited and dire*t o >e*tive of Medina# So . de*ided to slip off to A&a a y myself on test of my own t!eory#

&()PTE" ..+III
.n Cairo t!e yet-!ot aut!orities promised gold, rifles, mules, more ma*!ine-guns, and mountain guns) ut t!ese last, of *ourse, we never got# (!e gun @uestion was an eternal torment# %e*ause of t!e !illy, tra*&less *ountry, field guns were no use to us) and t!e %ritis! Army !ad no mountain guns e3*ept t!e .ndian ten-pounder, w!i*! was servi*ea le only against ows and arrows# %remond !ad some e3*ellent S*!neider si3ty-fives at Sue+, wit! Algerian gunners, ut !e regarded t!em prin*ipally as !is

lever to move allied troops into Ara ia# '!en we as&ed !im to send t!em down to us wit! or wit!out men, !e would reply, first t!at t!e Ara s would not treat t!e *rews properly, and t!en t!at t!ey would not treat t!e guns properly # $is pri*e was a %ritis! rigade for "a eg!) and we would not pay it# $e feared to ma&e t!e Ara Army formida le--an argument one *ould understand-- ut t!e *ase of t!e %ritis! Government was in*ompre!ensi le# .t was not ill-will, for t!ey gave us all else we wanted) nor was it niggardliness, for t!eir total !elp to t!e Ara s, in materials and money, e3*eeded ten millions# . elieve it was s!eer stupidity# %ut it was maddening to e une@ual to many enterprises and to fail in ot!ers, for t!e te*!ni*al reason t!at we *ould not &eep down t!e (ur&is! artillery e*ause its guns outranged ours y t!ree or four t!ousand yards# .n t!e end, !appily, %remond over-rea*!ed !imself, after &eeping !is atteries idle for a year at Sue+# Ma>or Cousse, !is su**essor, ordered t!em down to us, and y t!eir !elp we entered Damas*us# During t!at idle year t!ey !ad een, to ea*! Ara offi*er w!o entered Sue+, a silent in*ontroverti le proof of :ren*! mali*e towards t!e Ara movement# 'e re*eived a great reinfor*ement to our *ause in /aafar ,as!a, a %agdadi offi*er from t!e (ur&is! Army# After distinguis!ed servi*e in t!e German and (ur&is! armies, !e !ad een *!osen y 4nver to organi+e t!e levies of t!e S!ei&! el Senussi# $e went t!ere y su marine, made a de*ent for*e of t!e wild men, and s!owed ta*ti*al a ility against t!e %ritis! in two attles# (!en !e was *aptured and lodged in t!e *itadel at Cairo wit! t!e ot!er offi*er prisoners of war# $e es*aped one nig!t, slipping down a lan&et-rope towards t!e moat) ut t!e lan&ets failed under t!e strain, and in t!e fall !e !urt !is an&le, and was re-ta&en !elpless# .n !ospital !e gave !is parole, and was enlarged after paying for t!e torn lan&et# %ut one day !e read in an Ara i* newspaper of t!e S!erif s revolt, and of t!e e3e*ution y t!e (ur&s of prominent Ara 0ationalists--!is friends--and reali+ed t!at !e !ad een on t!e wrong side# :eisal !ad !eard of !im, of *ourse, and wanted !im as *ommander-in-*!ief of !is regular troops, w!ose improvement was now our main effort# 'e &new t!at /aafar was one of t!e few men wit! enoug! of reputation and personality to weld t!eir diffi*ult and re*ipro*ally disagreea le elements into an army# ;ing $ussein, !owever, would not !ave it# $e was old and narrow, and disli&ed Mesopotamians and Syrians- Me**a must deliver Damas*us# $e refused t!e servi*es of /aafar# :eisal !ad to a**ept !im on !is own responsi ility# .n Cairo were $ogart! and George 2loyd, and Storrs and Deedes, and many old friends# %eyond t!em t!e *ir*le of Ara ian well-wis!ers was now strangely in*reased# .n t!e army our s!ares rose as we s!owed profits# 2ynden %ell stood firmly our friend and swore t!at met!od was *oming out of t!e Ara madness# Sir Ar*!i ald Murray reali+ed wit! a sudden s!o*& t!at more (ur&is! troops were fig!ting t!e Ara s t!an were fig!ting !im, and egan to remem er !ow !e !ad always favoured t!e Ara revolt# Admiral 'emyss was as ready to !elp now as !e !ad een in our !ard days round "a eg!# Sir "eginald 'ingate, $ig! Commissioner in 4gypt, was !appy in t!e su**ess oft!e wor& !e !ad advo*ated for years# . grudged !im t!is !appiness) for M*Ma!on, w!o too& t!e a*tual ris& of starting it, !ad een ro&en >ust efore prosperity egan# $owever, t!at was !ardly 'ingate?s fault# .n t!e midst of my tou*!ing t!e slender stops of all t!ese @uills t!ere *ame a rude surprise# Colonel %remond *alled to feli*itate me on t!e *apture of 'e>!, saying t!at it *onfirmed !is elief in my military talent and en*ouraged !im to e3pe*t my !elp in an e3tension of our su**ess# $e wanted to o**upy A&a a wit! an Anglo-:ren*! for*e and naval !elp# $e pointed out t!e importan*e of A&a a, t!e only (ur&is! port left in t!e "ed Sea, t!e nearest to t!e Sue+ Canal, t!e nearest to t!e $e>a+ "ailway, on t!e left flan& of t!e %eers!e a army) suggesting its o**upation y a *omposite rigade, w!i*! s!ould advan*e up 'adi .tm for a *rus!ing low at Maan# $e egan to enlarge on t!e nature of t!e ground# . told !im t!at . &new A&a a from efore t!e war, and felt t!at !is s*!eme was te*!ni*ally impossi le# 'e *ould ta&e t!e ea*! of t!e gulf) ut our for*es t!ere, as unfavoura ly pla*ed as on a Gallipoli ea*!, would e under o servation and gun-fire from t!e *oastal !ills- and t!ese granite !ills, t!ousands of feet !ig!, were impra*ti*a le for !eavy troops- t!e passes t!roug! t!em eing formida le defiles, very *ostly to assault or to *over# .n my opinion, A&a a, w!ose importan*e was all

and more t!an !e said, would e est ta&en y Ara irregulars des*ending from t!e interior wit!out naval !elp# %remond did not tell me B ut . &newC t!at !e wanted t!e landing at A&a a to !ead off t!e Ara movement, y getting a mi3ed for*e in front of t!em Bas at "a eg!C, so t!at t!ey mig!t e *onfined to Ara ia, and *ompelled to waste t!eir efforts against Medina# (!e Ara s still feared t!at t!e S!erif s allian*e wit! us was ased on a se*ret agreement to sell t!em at t!e end, and su*! a C!ristian invasion would !ave *onfirmed t!ese fears and destroyed t!eir *ooperation# :or my part, . did not tell %remond B ut !e &newC t!at . meant to defeat !is efforts and to ta&e t!e Ara s soon into Damas*us# .t amused me, t!is *!ildis!ly-*on*eived rivalry of vital aims, ut !e ended !is tal& ominously y saying t!at, any!ow, !e was going down to put t!e s*!eme to :eisal in 'e>!# 0ow, . !ad not warned :eisal t!at %remond was a politi*ian# 0ew*om e was in 'e>!, wit! !is friendly desire to get moves on# 'e !ad not tal&ed over t!e pro lem of A&a a# :eisal &new neit!er its terrain nor its tri es# ;eenness and ignoran*e would lend an ear favoura le to t!e proposal# .t seemed est for me to !urry down t!ere and put my side on its guard, so . left t!e same afternoon for Sue+ and sailed t!at nig!t# (wo days later, in 'e>!, . e3plained myself) so t!at w!en %remond *ame after ten days and opened !is !eart, or part of it, to :eisal, !is ta*ti*s were returned to !im wit! improvements# (!e :ren*!man egan y presenting si3 $ot*!&iss automati*s *omplete wit! instru*tors# (!is was a no le gift) ut :eisal too& t!e opportunity to as& !im to in*rease !is ounty y a attery of t!e @ui*&firing mountain guns at Sue+, e3plaining t!at !e !ad een sorry to leave t!e 1en o area for 'e>!, sin*e 'e>! was so mu*! furt!er from !is o >e*tive--Medina-- ut it was really impossi le for !im to assault t!e (ur&s Bw!o !ad :ren*! artilleryC wit! rifles or wit! t!e old guns supplied !im y t!e %ritis! Army# $is men !ad not t!e te*!ni*al e3*ellen*e to ma&e a ad tool prevail over a good one# $e !ad to e3ploit !is only advantages--num ers and mo ility--and, unless !is e@uipment *ould e improved, t!ere was no saying w!ere t!is protra*tion of !is front mig!t endA %remond tried to turn it off y elittling guns as useless for $e>a+ warfare B@uite rig!t, t!is, pra*ti*allyC# %ut it would end t!e war at on*e if :eisal made !is men *lim a out t!e *ountry li&e goats and tear up t!e railway# :eisal, angry at t!e metap!or Bimpolite in Ara i*C, loo&ed at %remond?s si3 feet of *omforta le ody, and as&ed if !e !ad ever tried to ?goat? !imself# %remond referred gallantly to t!e @uestion of A&a a, and t!e real danger to t!e Ara s in t!e (ur&s remaining t!ereinsisting t!at t!e %ritis!, w!o !ad t!e means for an e3pedition t!it!er, s!ould e pressed to underta&e it# :eisal, in reply, gave !im a geograp!i*al s&et*! of t!e land e!ind A&a a B. re*ogni+ed t!e less das!ing part of it myselfC and e3plained t!e tri al diffi*ulties and t!e food pro lem--all t!e points w!i*! made it a serious o sta*le# $e ended y saying t!at, after t!e *loud of orders, *ounter-orders and *onfusion over t!e allied troops for "a eg!, !e really !ad not t!e fa*e to approa*! Sir Ar*!i ald Murray so soon wit! anot!er re@uest for an e3*ursion# %remond !ad to retire from t!e attle in good order, getting in a ,art!ian s!ot at me, w!ere . sat spitefully smiling, y egging :eisal to insist t!at t!e %ritis! armoured *ars in Sue+ e sent down to 'e>!# %ut even t!is was a oomerang, sin*e t!ey !ad startedA After !e !ad gone, . returned to Cairo for a *!eerful wee&, in w!i*! . gave my etters mu*! good advi*e# Murray, w!o !ad growlingly earmar&ed (ulli ardine?s rigade for A&a a, approved me still furt!er w!en . de*lared against t!at side-s!ow too# (!en to 'e>!#

&()PTE" ..I.
2ife in 'e>! was interesting# 'e !ad now set our *amp in order# :eisal pit*!ed !is tents B!ere an opulent group- living tents, re*eption tents, staff tents, guest tents, servants?C a out a mile from t!e sea, on t!e edge of t!e *oral s!elf w!i*! ran up gently from t!e ea*! till it ended in a steep drop fa*ing east and sout! over road valleys radiating star-li&e from t!e land-lo*&ed !ar our# (!e tents of soldiers and tri esmen were grouped in t!ese sandy valleys, leaving t!e *!ill !eig!t for ourselves) and very delig!tful in t!e evening we nort!erners found it w!en t!e ree+e from t!e sea *arried us a murmur of t!e waves, faint and far off, li&e t!e e*!o of traffi* up a y-street in 2ondon# .mmediately eneat! us were t!e Ageyl, an irregular *lose group of tents# Sout! of t!ese were "asim?s artillery) and y !im for *ompany, A dulla?s ma*!ine-gunners, in regular lines, wit! t!eir animals pi*&eted out in t!ose formal rows w!i*! were in*ense to t!e professional offi*er and *onvenient if spa*e were pre*ious# :urt!er out t!e mar&et was set plainly on t!e ground, a oiling swell of men always a out t!e goods# (!e s*attered tents and s!elters of t!e tri esmen filled ea*! gully or windless pla*e# %eyond t!e last of t!em lay open *ountry, wit! *amel-parties *oming in and out y t!e straggling palms of t!e nearest, too- ra*&is! well# As a*&ground were t!e foot!ills, reefs and *lusters li&e ruined *astles, t!rown up *raggily to t!e !ori+on of t!e *oastal range# As it was t!e *ustom in 'e>! to *amp wide apart, very wide apart, my life was spent in moving a*& and fort!, to :eisal?s tents, to t!e 4nglis! tents, to t!e 4gyptian Army tents, to t!e town, t!e port, t!e wireless station, tramping all day restlessly up and down t!ese *oral pat!s in sandals or arefoot, !ardening my feet, getting y slow degrees t!e power to wal& wit! little pain over s!arp and urning ground, tempering my already trained ody for greater endeavour# ,oor Ara s wondered w!y . !ad no mare) and . for ore to pu++le t!em y in*ompre!ensi le tal& of !ardening myself, or *onfess . would rat!er wal& t!an ride for sparing of animals- yet t!e first was true and t!e se*ond true# Somet!ing !urtful to my pride, disagreea le, rose at t!e sig!t of t!ese lower forms of life# (!eir e3isten*e stru*& a servile refle*tion upon our !uman &ind- t!e style in w!i*! a God would loo& on us) and to ma&e use of t!em, to lie under an avoida le o ligation to t!em, seemed to me s!ameful# .t was as wit! t!e negroes, tom-tom playing t!emselves to red madness ea*! nig!t under t!e ridge# (!eir fa*es, eing *learly different from our own, were tolera le) ut it !urt t!at t!ey s!ould possess e3a*t *ounterparts of all our odies# :eisal, wit!in, la oured day and nig!t at !is politi*s, in w!i*! so few of us *ould !elp# 8utside, t!e *rowd employed and diverted us wit! parades, >oy-s!ooting, and mar*!es of vi*tory# Also t!ere were a**idents# 8n*e a group, playing e!ind our tents, set off a seaplane om , dud reli* of %oyle?s *apture of t!e town# .n t!e e3plosion t!eir lim s were s*attered a out t!e *amp, mar&ing t!e *anvas wit! red splas!es w!i*! soon turned a dull rown and t!en faded pale# :eisal !ad t!e tents *!anged and ordered t!e loody ones to e destroyed- t!e frugal slaves was!ed t!em# Anot!er day a tent too& fire, and part-roasted t!ree of our guests# (!e *amp *rowded round and roared wit! laug!ter till t!e fire died down, and t!en, rat!er s!amefa*edly, we *ared for t!eir !urts# (!e t!ird day, a mare was wounded y a faffing >oy- ullet, and many tents were pier*ed# 8ne nig!t t!e Ageyl mutinied against t!eir *ommandant, i n Da&!il, for fining t!em too generally and flogging t!em too severely# (!ey rus!ed !is tent, !owling and s!ooting, t!rew !is t!ings a out and eat !is servants# (!at not eing enoug! to lunt t!eir fury, t!ey egan to remem er 1en o, and went off to &ill t!e Atei a# :eisal from our luff saw t!eir tor*!es and ran arefoot amongst t!em, laying on wit! t!e flat of !is sword li&e four men# $is fury delayed t!em w!ile t!e slaves and !orsemen, *alling for !elp, das!ed down!ill wit! rus!es and s!outs and lows of s!eat!ed swords# 8ne gave !im a !orse on w!i*! !e *!arged down t!e ringleaders, w!ile we dispersed groups y firing <ery lig!ts into t!eir *lot!ing# 8nly two were &illed and t!irty wounded# . n Da&!il resigned ne3t day # Murray !ad given us two armoured-*ars, "olls-"oy*es, released from t!e *ampaign in 4ast Afri*a# Gilman and 'ade *ommanded, and t!eir *rews were %ritis!, men from t!e A#S#C# to drive and from t!e Ma*!ine Gun Corps to s!oot# $aving t!em in 'e>! made t!ings more diffi*ult for us, e*ause t!e

food we !ad een eating and t!e water we !ad een drin&ing were at on*e medi*ally *ondemned) ut 4nglis! *ompany was a alan*ing pleasure, and t!e o**upation of pus!ing *ars and motor- i*y*les t!roug! t!e desperate sand a out 'e>! was great# (!e fier*e diffi*ulty of driving a*ross *ountry gave t!e men arms li&e o3ers, so t!at t!ey swung t!eir s!oulders professionally as t!ey wal&ed# 'it! time t!ey e*ame s&illed, developing a style and art of sand-driving, w!i*! got t!em *arefully over t!e etter ground and rus!ed t!em at speed over soft pla*es# 8ne of t!ese soft pla*es was t!e last twenty miles of plain in front of /e el "aal# (!e *ars used to *ross it in little more t!an !alf an !our, leaping from ridge to ridge of t!e dunes and swaying dangerously around t!eir *urves# (!e Ara s loved t!e new toys# %i*y*les t!ey *alled devil-!orses, t!e *!ildren of *ars, w!i*! t!emselves were sons and daug!ters of trains# .t gave us t!ree generations of me*!ani*al transport# (!e 0avy added greatly to our interests in 'e>!# (!e Espiegle was sent y %oyle as station s!ip, wit! t!e delig!tful orders to ?do everyt!ing in !er power to *o-operate in t!e many plans w!i*! would e suggested to !er y Colonel 0ew*om e, w!ile letting it e *learly seen t!at s!e was *onferring a favour?# $er *ommander :it+mauri*e Ba good name in (ur&eyC, was t!e soul of !ospitality and found @uiet amusement in our wor& on s!ore# $e !elped us in a t!ousand ways) a ove all in signalling) for !e was a wireless e3pert, and one day at noon t!e )orthbrook *ame in and landed an army wireless set, on a lig!t lorry, for us# As t!ere was no one to e3plain it, we were at a loss) ut :it+mauri*e ra*ed as!ore wit! !alf !is *rew, ran t!e *ar to a fitting site, rigged t!e masts professionally, started t!e engine, and *onne*ted up to su*! effe*t t!at efore sunset !e !ad *alled t!e astonis!ed )orthbrook and !eld a long *onversation wit! !er operator# (!e station in*reased t!e effi*ien*y of t!e ase at 'e>! and was usy day and nig!t, filling t!e "ed Sea wit! messages in t!ree tongues, and twenty different sorts of army *yp!er-*odes#

&()PTE" ...
:a&!ri ,as!a was still playing our game# $e !eld an entren*!ed line around Medina, >ust far enoug! out to ma&e it impossi le for t!e Ara s to s!ell t!e *ity# BSu*! an attempt was never made or imagined# C (!e ot!er troops were eing distri uted along t!e railway, in strong garrisons at all water stations etween Medina and (e u&, and in smaller posts etween t!ese garrisons, so t!at daily patrols mig!t guarantee t!e tra*&# .n s!ort, !e !ad fallen a*& on as stupid a defensive as *ould e *on*eived# Garland !ad gone sout!-east from 'e>!, and 0ew*om e nort!-east, to pi*& !oles in it wit! !ig! e3plosives# (!ey would *ut rails and ridges, and pla*e automati* mines for running trains# (!e Ara s !ad passed from dou t to violent optimism, and were promising e3emplary servi*e# :eisal enrolled most of t!e %illi, and t!e Moa!i , w!i*! made !im master of Ara ia etween t!e railway and t!e sea# $e t!en sent t!e /u!eina to A dulla in 'adi Ais# $e *ould now prepare to deal solemnly wit! t!e $e>a+ "ailway) ut wit! a pra*ti*e etter t!an my prin*iples, . egged !im first to delay in 'e>! and set mar*!ing an intense movement among t!e tri es eyond us, t!at in t!e future our revolt mig!t e e3tended, and t!e railway t!reatened from (e u& Bour present limit of influen*eC nort!ward as far as Maan# My vision of t!e *ourse of t!e Ara war was still pur lind# . !ad not seen t!at t!e prea*!ing was vi*tory and t!e fig!ting a delusion# :or t!e moment, . roped t!em toget!er, and, as :eisal fortunately li&ed *!anging men?s minds rat!er t!an rea&ing railways, t!e prea*!ingwent t!e etter# 'it! !is nort!ern neig! ours, t!e *oastal $oweitat, !e !ad already made a eginning- ut we now sent to t!e %eni Atiye!, a stronger people to t!e nort!-east ) and gained a great step w!en t!e *!ief, Asi i n Atiye!, *ame in and swore allegian*e# $is main motive was >ealousy of !is rot!ers, so t!at we did not e3pe*t from !im a*tive !elp) ut t!e read and salt wit! !im gave us freedom of movement a*ross !is tri e?s territory# %eyond lay various tri es owning o edien*e to 0uri S!aalan, t!e great 4mir of t!e "uwalla, w!o, after t!e S!erif and i n Saud and i n "as!id, was t!e fourt! figure among t!e pre*arious prin*es of t!e desert# 0uri was an old man, w!o !ad ruled !is Ana+e! tri esmen for t!irty years# $is was t!e *!ief family of

t!e "ualla, ut 0uri !ad no pre*eden*e among t!em at irt!, nor was !e loved, nor a great man of attle# $is !eads!ip !ad een a*@uired y s!eer for*e of *!ara*ter# (o gain it !e !ad &illed two of !is rot!ers# 2ater !e !ad added S!erarat and ot!ers to t!e num er of !is followers, and in all t!eir desert !is word was a solute law# $e !ad none of t!e w!eedling diploma*y of t!e ordinary s!ei&!) a word, and t!ere was an end of opposition, or of !is opponent# All feared and o eyed !im) to use !is roads we must !ave !is *ountenan*e# :ortunately, t!is was easy# :eisal !ad se*ured it years ago, and !ad retained it y inter*!ange of gifts from Medina and 1en o# 0ow, from 'e>!, :ai+ el G!usein went up to !im and on t!e way *rossed i n Dug!mi, one of t!e *!ief men of t!e "uwalla, *oming down to us wit! t!e desira le gift of some !undreds of good aggage *amels# 0uri, of *ourse, still &ept friendly wit! t!e (ur&s# Damas*us and %agdad were !is mar&ets, and t!ey *ould !ave !alf-starved !is tri e in t!ree mont!s, !ad t!ey suspe*ted !im) ut we &new t!at w!en t!e moment *ame we s!ould !ave !is armed !elp, and till t!en anyt!ing s!ort of a rea*! wit! (ur&ey# $is favour would open to us t!e Sir!an, a famous roadway, *amping ground, and *!ain of water!oles, w!i*! in a series of lin&ed depressions e3tended from /auf, 0un?s *apital, in t!e sout!-east, nort!wards to A+ra&, near /e el Druse, in Syria# .t was t!e freedom of t!e Sir!an we needed to rea*! t!e tents of t!e 4astern $oweitat, t!ose famous a u (ayi, of w!om Auda, t!e greatest fig!ting man in nort!ern Ara ia, was *!ief# 8nly y means of Auda a u (ayi *ould we swing t!e tri es from Maan to A&a a so violently in our favour t!at t!ey would !elp us ta&e A&a a and its !ills from t!eir (ur&is! garrisons- only wit! !is a*tive support *ould we venture to t!rust out from 'e>! on t!e long tre& to Maan# Sin*e our 1en o days we !ad een longing for !im and trying to win !im to our *ause# 'e made a great step forward at 'e>!) i n Gaal, !is *ousin and a war-leader of t!e a u (ayi, arrived on t!e seventeent! of :e ruary, w!i*! was in all respe*ts a fortunate day# At dawn t!ere *ame in five *!ief men of t!e S!erarat from t!e desert east of (e u&, ringing a present of eggs of t!e Ara ian ostri*!, plentiful in t!eir little-fre@uented desert# After t!em, t!e slaves s!owed in D!aif-Alla!, a u (iyur, a *ousin of $amd i n /a+i, paramount of t!e *entral $oweitat of t!e Maan plateau# (!ese were numerous and powerful) splendid fig!ters) ut lood enemies of t!eir *ousins, t!e nomad a u (ayi, e*ause of an old-grounded @uarrel etween Auda and $amd# 'e were proud to see t!em *oming t!us far to greet us, yet not *ontent, for t!ey were less fit t!an t!e a u (ayi for our purposed atta*& against A&a a# 8n t!eir !eels *ame a *ousin of 0awwaf, 0uri S!aalan?s eldest son, wit! a mare sent y 0awwaf to :eisal# (!e S!aalan and t!e /a+i, eing !ostile, !ardened eyes at one anot!er) so we divided t!e parties and improvised a new guest-*amp# After t!e "ualla, was announ*ed t!e a u (ageiga *!ief of t!e sedentary $oweitat of t!e *oast# $e roug!t !is tri e?s respe*tful !omage and t!e spoils of D!a a and Moweille!, t!e two last (ur&is! outlets on t!e "ed Sea# "oom was made for !im on :eisal?s *arpet, and t!e warmest t!an&s rendered !im for !is tri e?s a*tivity) w!i*! *arried us to t!e orders of A&a a, y tra*&s too roug! for operations of for*e, ut *onvenient for prea*!ing, and still more so for getting news# .n t!e afternoon, i n Gaal arrived, wit! ten ot!er of Auda?s *!ief followers# $e &issed :eisal?s !and on*e for Auda and t!en on*e for !imself, and, sitting a*&, de*lared t!at !e *ame from Auda to present !is salutations and to as& for orders# :eisal, wit! poli*y, *ontrolled !is outward >oy, and introdu*ed !im gravely to !is lood enemies, t!e /a+i $oweitat# . n Gaal a*&nowledged t!em distantly# 2ater, we !eld great private *onversations wit! !im and dismissed !im wit! ri*! gifts, ri*!er promises, and :eisal?s own message to Auda t!at !is mind would not e smoot! till !e !ad seen !im fa*e to fa*e in 'e>!# Auda was an immense *!ivalrous name, ut an un&nown @uantity to us, and in so vital a matter as A&a a we *ould not afford a mista&e# $e must *ome down t!at we mig!t weig! !im, and frame our future plans a*tually in !is presen*e, and wit! !is !elp# 43*ept t!at all its events were !appy, t!is day was not essentially unli&e :eisal?s every day# (!e rus! of news made my diary fat# (!e roads to 'e>! swarmed wit! envoys and volunteers and great s!ei&!s riding in to swear allegian*e# (!e *ontagion of t!eir *onstant passage made t!e lu&ewarm %illi ever

more profita le to us# :eisal swore new ad!erents solemnly on t!e ;oran etween !is !ands, ?to wait w!ile !e waited, mar*! w!en !e mar*!ed, to yield o edien*e to no (ur&, to deal &indly wit! all w!o spo&e Ara i* Bw!et!er %agdadi, Aleppine, Syrian, or pure- loodedC and to put independen*e a ove life, family, and goods?# $e also egan to *onfront t!em at on*e, in !is presen*e, wit! t!eir tri al enemies, and to *ompose t!eir feuds# An a**ount of profit and loss would e stru*& etween t!e parties, wit! :eisal modulating and inter*eding etween t!em, and often paying t!e alan*e, or *ontri uting towards it from !is own funds, to !urry on t!e pa*t# During two years :eisal so la oured daily, putting toget!er and arranging in t!eir natural order t!e innumera le tiny pie*es w!i*! made up Ara ian so*iety, and *om ining t!em into !is one design of war against t!e (ur&s# (!ere was no lood feud left a*tive in any of t!e distri*ts t!roug! w!i*! !e !ad passed, and !e was Court of Appeal, ultimate and un*!allenged, for western Ara ia# $e s!owed !imself wort!y of t!is a*!ievement# $e never gave a partial de*ision, nor a de*ision so impra*ti*a ly >ust t!at it must lead to disorder# 0o Ara ever impugned !is >udgements, or @uestioned !is wisdom and *ompeten*e in tri al usiness# %y patiently sifting out rig!t and wrong, y !is ta*t, !is wonderful memory, !e gained aut!ority over t!e nomads from Medina to Damas*us and eyond# $e was re*ogni+ed as a for*e trans*ending tri e, superseding lood *!iefs, greater t!an >ealousies# (!e Ara movement e*ame in t!e est sense national, sin*e wit!in it all Ara s were at one, and for it private interests must e set aside) and in t!is movement *!ief pla*e, y rig!t of appli*ation and y rig!t of a ility, !ad een properly earned y t!e man w!o filled it for t!ose few wee&s of triump! and longer mont!s of disillusion after Damas*us !ad een set free#

&()PTE" ...I
9rgent messages from Clayton ro&e a*ross t!is *!eerful wor& wit! orders to wait in 'e>! for two days and meet t!e )ur El "ahr, an 4gyptian patrol s!ip, *oming down wit! news# . was not well and waited wit! more e3*ellent gra*e# S!e arrived on t!e proper day, and disem ar&ed Ma*"ury, w!o gave me a *opy of long telegrap!i* instru*tions from /emal ,as!a to :a&!ri in Medina# (!ese, emanating from 4nver and t!e German staff in Constantinople, ordered t!e instant a andonment of Medina, and eva*uation of t!e troops y route mar*! in mass, first to $edia, t!en*e to 4l 9la, t!en*e to (e u&, and finally to Maan, w!ere a fres! rail-!ead and entren*!ed position would e *onstituted# (!is move would !ave suited t!e Ara s e3*ellently) ut our army of 4gypt was pertur ed at t!e prospe*t of twenty-five t!ousand Anatolian troops, wit! far more t!an t!e usual artillery of a *orps, des*ending suddenly on t!e %eers!e a front# Clayton, in !is letter, told me t!e development was to e treated wit! t!e utmost *on*ern, and every effort made to *apture Medina, or to destroy t!e garrison w!en t!ey *ame out# 0ew*om e was on t!e line, doing a vigorous demolition-series, so t!at t!e moment?s responsi ility fell on me# . feared t!at little *ould e done in time, for t!e message was days old, and t!e eva*uation timed to egin at on*e# 'e told :eisal t!e fran& position, and t!at Allied interests in t!is *ase demanded t!e sa*rifi*e, or at least t!e postponement of immediate advantage to t!e Ara s# $e rose, as ever, to a proposition of !onour, and agreed instantly to do !is est# 'e wor&ed out our possi le resour*es and arranged to move t!em into *onta*t wit! t!e railway# S!erif Mastur, an !onest, @uiet old man, and "asim, wit! tri esmen, mule-mounted infantry, and a gun, were to pro*eed dire*tly to :agair, t!e first good waterase nort! of 'adi Ais, to !old up our first se*tion of railway, from A dulla?s area nort!ward# Ali i n el $ussein, from /eida, would atta*& t!e ne3t se*tion of line nort!ward from Mastur# 'e told i n Ma!anna to get *lose to 4l 9la, and wat*! it# 'e ordered S!erif 0asir to stay near ;alaat el Muad!d!am, and &eep !is men in !and for an effort# . wrote as&ing 0ew*om e to *ome in for news# 8ld Mo!ammed Ali was to move from D!a a to an oasis near (e u&, so t!at if t!e eva*uation got so far we s!ould e ready# All our !undred and fifty miles of line would t!us e eset, w!ile :eisal !imself, at 'e>!, stood ready to ring !elp to w!atever se*tor most needed !im#

My part was to go off to A dulla in 'adi Ais, to find out w!y !e !ad done not!ing for two mont!s, and to persuade !im, if t!e (ur&s *ame out, to go straig!t at t!em# . !oped we mig!t deter t!em from moving y ma&ing so many small raids on t!is lengt!y line t!at traffi* would e seriously disorgani+ed, and t!e *olle*tion of t!e ne*essary food-dumps for t!e army at ea*! main stage e impra*ti*a le# (!e Medina for*e, eing s!ort of animal transport, *ould *arry little wit! t!em# 4nver !ad instru*ted t!em to put guns and stores on trains) and to en*lose t!ese trains in t!eir *olumns and mar*! toget!er up t!e railway# .t was an unpre*edented manoeuvre, and if we gained ten days to get in pla*e, and t!ey t!en attempted anyt! ing so silly, we s!ould !ave a *!an*e of destroying t!em all# 0e3t day . left 'e>!, ill and unfit for a long mar*!, w!ile :eisal in !is !aste and many preo**upations !ad *!osen me a travelling party of @ueer fellows# (!ere were four "ifaa and one Merawi /u-!eina as guides, and Arslan, a Syrian soldier-servant, w!o prepared read and ri*e for me and a*ted esides as utt to t!e Ara s) four Ageyl, a Moor, and an Atei i, Suleiman# (!e *amels, t!in wit! t!e ad gra+ing of t!is dry %illi territory, would !ave to go slowly# Delay after delay too& pla*e in our starting, until nine at nig!t, and t!en we moved unwillingly- ut . was determined to get *lear of 'e>! some!ow efore morning# So we went four !ours and slept# 0e3t day we did two stages of five !ours ea*!, and *amped at A u Gerei at, in our old ground of t!e winter# (!e great pool !ad s!run& little in t!e two mont!s, ut was noti*ea ly more salt# A few wee&s later it was unfit to drin&# A s!allow well near y was said to afford tolera le water# . did not loo& for it, sin*e oils on my a*& and !eavy fever made painful t!e >olting of t!e *amel, and . was tired# 2ong efore dawn we rode away, and !aving *rossed $amd! got *onfused in t!e ro&en surfa*es of Agunna, an area of low !ills# '!en day ro&e we re*overed dire*tion and went over a waters!ed steeply down into 4l ;!u t, a !ill-lo*&ed plain e3tending to t!e Su&!ur, t!e granite u les of !ills w!i*! !ad een prominent on our road up from 9m 2e>># (!e ground was lu3uriant wit! *olo*ynt!, w!ose runners and fruits loo&ed festive in t!e early lig!t# (!e /u-!eina said ot! leaves and stal&s were e3*ellent food for su*! !orses as would eat t!em, and defended from t!irst for many !ours# (!e Ageyl said t!at t!e est aperient was to drin& *amel-mil& from *ups of t!e s*ooped-out rind# (!e Atei i said t!at !e was suffi*iently moved if !e >ust ru ed t!e >ui*e of t!e fruit on t!e soles of !is feet# (!e Moor $amed said t!at t!e dried pit! made good tinder# 8n one point !owever t!ey were all agreed, t!at t!e w!ole plant was useless or poisonous as fodder for *amels# (!is tal& *arried us a*ross t!e ;!u t, a pleasant t!ree miles, and t!roug! a low ridge into a se*ond smaller se*tion# 'e now saw t!at, of t!e Su&!ur, two stood toget!er to t!e nort!-east, great grey striated piles of vol*ani* ro*&, reddis! *oloured w!ere prote*ted from t!e urning of t!e sun and t!e ruising of sandy winds# (!e t!ird Sa&!ara, w!i*! stood a little apart, was t!e u le ro*& w!i*! !ad roused my *uriosity# Seen from near y, it more resem led a !uge foot all !alf- uried in t!e ground# .t, too, was rown in *olour# (!e sout! and east fa*es were @uite smoot! and un ro&en, and its regular, domed !ead was polis!ed and s!ining and !ad fine *ra*&s running up and over it li&e stit*!ed seams- altoget!er one of t!e strangest !ills in $e>a+, a *ountry of strange !ills# 'e rode gently towards it, t!roug! a t!in s!ower of rain w!i*! *ame slanting strangely and eautifully a*ross t!e sunlig!t# 8ur pat! too& up etween t!e Sa&!ara and t!e Su&!ur y a narrow gorge wit! sandy floor and steep are walls# .ts !ead was roug!# 'e !ad to s*ram le up s!elves of *oarse-fa*ed stone, and along a great fault in t!e !ill-side etween two tilted red reefs of !ard ro*&# (!e summit of t!e pass was a &nife-edge, and from it we went down an en*um ered gap, !alf- lo*&ed y one fallen oulder w!i*! !ad een !ammered over wit! t!e tri al mar&s of all t!e generations of men w!o !ad used t!is road# Afterwards t!ere opened tree-grown spa*es, *olle*ting grounds in winter for t!e s!eets of rain w!i*! poured off t!e gla+ed sides of t!e Su&!ur# (!ere were granite out*rops !ere and t!ere, and a fine silver sand underfoot in t!e still damp water-*!annels# (!e drainage was towards $eiran# 'e t!en entered a wild *onfusion of granite s!ards, piled up !ap!a+ard into low mounds, in and out of w!i*! we wandered any way we *ould find pra*ti*a le going for our !esitating *amels# Soon after noon t!is gave pla*e to a road wooded valley, up w!i*! we rode for an !our, till our trou les egan

again) for we !ad to dismount and lead our animals up a narrow !ill-pat! wit! ro&en steps of ro*& so polis!ed y long years of passing feet t!at t!ey were dangerous in wet weat!er# (!ey too& us over a great s!oulder of t!e !ills and down among more small mounds and valleys, and afterwards y anot!er ro*&y +ig+ag des*ent into a torrent- ed# (!is soon e*ame too *onfined to admit t!e passage of laden *amels, and t!e pat! left it to *ling pre*ariously to t!e !ill-side wit! a *liff a ove and *liff elow# After fifteen minutes of t!is we were glad to rea*! a !ig! saddle on w!i*! former travellers !ad piled little *airns of *ommemoration and t!an&fulness# 8f su*! a nature !ad een t!e road-side *airns of Mastura!, on my first Ara ian >ourney, from "a eg! to :eisal# 'e stopped to add one to t!e num er, and t!en rode down a sandy valley into 'adi $an ag, a large, well-wooded tri utary of $amd!# After t!e ro&en *ountry in w!i*! we !ad een prisoned for !ours, t!e openness of $an ag was refres!ing# .ts *lean w!ite ed swept on nort!ward t!roug! t!e trees in a fine *urve under pre*ipitous !ills of red and rown, wit! views for a mile or two up and down its *ourse# (!ere were green weeds and grass growing on t!e lower sand-slopes of t!e tri utary, and we stopped t!ere for !alf an !our to let our starved *a mels eat t!e >ui*y, !ealt!y stuff# (!ey !ad not so en>oyed t!emselves sin*e %ir el 'a!eidi, and tore at it ravenously, stowing it away un*!ewed inside t!em, pending a fit time for leisurely digestion# 'e t!en *rossed t!e valley to a great ran*! opposite our entry# (!is 'adi 4itan was also eautiful# .ts s!ingle fa*e, wit!out loose ro*&s, was plentifully grown over wit! trees# 8n t!e rig!t were low !ills, on t!e left great !eig!ts *alled t!e /id!wa, in parallel ridges of steep ro&en granite, very red now t!at t!e sun was setting amid massed *loud- an&s of oding rain# At last we *amped, and w!en t!e *amels were unloaded and driven out to pasture, . lay down under t!e ro*&s and rested# My ody was very sore wit! !eada*!e and !ig! fever, t!e a**ompaniments of a s!arp atta*& of dysentery w!i*! !ad trou led me along t!e mar*! and !ad laid me out twi*e t!at day in s!ort fainting fits, w!en t!e more diffi*ult parts of t!e *lim !ad as&ed too mu*! of my strengt!# Dysentery of t!is Ara ian *oast sort used to fall li&e a !ammer low, and *rus! its vi*tims for a few !ours, after w!i*! t!e e3treme effe*ts passed off) ut it left men *uriously tired, and su >e*t for some wee&s to sudden rea&s of nerve# My followers !ad een @uarrelling all day) and w!ile . was lying near t!e ro*&s a s!ot was fired# . paid no attention) for t!ere were !ares and irds in t!e valley) ut a little later Suleiman roused me and made me follow !im a*ross t!e valley to an opposite ay in t!e ro*&s, w!ere one of t!e Ageyl, a %oreida man, was lying stone dead wit! a ullet t!roug! !is temples# (!e s!ot must !ave een fired from *lose y) e*ause t!e s&in was urnt a out one wound# (!e remaining Ageyl were running franti*ally a out) and w!en . as&ed w!at it was Ali, t!eir !ead man, said t!at $amed t!e Moor !ad done t!e murder# . suspe*ted Suleiman, e*ause of t!e feud etween t!e At an and Ageyl w!i*! !ad urned up in 1en o and 'e>!) ut A!? assured me t!at Suleiman !ad een wit! !im t!ree !undred yards furt!er up t!e valley gat!ering sti*&s w!en t!e s!ot was fired# . sent all out to sear*! for $amed, and *rawled a*& to t!e aggage, feeling t!at it need not !ave !appened t!is day of all days w!en . was in pain# As . lay t!ere . !eard a rustle, and opened my eyes slowly upon $amed?s a*& as !e stooped over !is saddle- ags, w!i*! lay >ust eyond my ro*&# . *overed !im wit! a pistol and t!en spo&e# $e !ad put down !is rifle to lift t!e gear) and was at my mer*y till t!e ot!ers *ame# 'e !eld a *ourt at on*e) and after a w!ile $amed *onfessed t!at, !e and Salem !aving !ad words, !e !ad seen red and s!ot !im suddenly# 8ur in@uiry ended# (!e Ageyl, as relatives of t!e dead man, demanded lood for lood# (!e ot!ers supported t!em) and . tried vainly to tal& t!e gentle Ali round# My !ead was a*!ing wit! fever and . *ould not t!in&) ut !ardly even in !ealt!, wit! all elo@uen*e, *ould . !ave egged $amed off) for Salem !ad een a friendly fellow and !is su dden murder a wanton *rime# (!en rose up t!e !orror w!i*! would ma&e *ivili+ed man s!un >usti*e li&e a plague if !e !ad not t!e needy to serve !im as !angmen for wages# (!ere were ot!er Moro**ans in our army) and to let t!e Ageyl &ill one in feud meant reprisals y w!i*! our unity would !ave een endangered# .t must e a formal e3e*ution, and at last, desperately, . told $amed t!at !e must die for punis!ment, and laid t!e

urden of !is &illing on myself# ,er!aps t!ey would *ount me not @ualified for feud# At least no revenge *ould lie against my followers) for . was a stranger and &inless# . made !im enter a narrow gully of t!e spur, a dan& twilig!t pla*e overgrown wit! weeds# .ts sandy ed !ad een pitted y tri*&les of water down t!e *liffs in t!e late rain# At t!e end it s!ran& to a *ra*& a few in*!es wide# (!e walls were verti*al# . stood in t!e entran*e and gave !im a few moments? delay w!i*! !e spent *rying on t!e ground# (!en . made !im rise and s!ot !im t!roug! t!e *!est# $e fell down on t!e weeds s!rie&ing, wit! t!e lood *oming out in spurts over !is *lot!es, and >er&ed a out till !e rolled nearly to w!ere . was# . fired again, ut was s!a&ing so t!at . only ro&e !is wrist# $e went on *alling out, less loudly, now lying on !is a*& wit! !is feet towards me, and . leant forward and s!ot !im for t!e last time in t!e t!i*& of !is ne*& under t!e >aw# $is ody s!ivered a little, and . *alled t!e Ageyl, w!o uried !im in t!e gully w!ere !e was# Afterwards t!e wa&eful nig!t dragged over me, till, !ours efore dawn, . !ad t!e men up and made t!em load, in my longing to e set free of 'adi ;itan# (!ey !ad to lift me into t!e saddle#

&()PTE" ...II
Dawn found us *rossing a steep s!ort pass out of 'adi ;itan into t!e main drainage valley of t!ese su**eeding !ills# 'e turned aside into 'adi "eimi, a tri utary, to get water# (!ere was no proper well, only a seepage !ole in t!e stony ed of t!e valley) and we found it partly y our noses- t!oug! t!e taste, w!ile as foul, was *uriously unli&e t!e smell# 'e refilled our water-s&ins# Arslan a&ed read, and we rested for two !ours# (!en we went on t!roug! 'adi Am&, an easy green valley w!i*! made *omforta le mar*!ing for t!e *amels# '!en t!e Am& turned westward we *rossed it, going up etween piles of t!e warped grey granite Bli&e *old toffeeC w!i*! was *ommon up-*ountry in t!e $e>a+# (!e defile *ulminated at t!e foot of a natural ramp and stair*ase- adly ro&en, twisting, and diffi*ult for *amels, ut s!ort# Afterwards we were in an open valley for an !our, wit! low !ills to t!e rig!t and mountains to t!e left# (!ere were water pools in t!e *rags, and Merawin tents under t!e fine trees w!i*! studded t!e flat# (!e fertility of t!e slopes was great- on t!em gra+ed flo*&s of s!eep and goats# 'e got mil& from t!e Ara s- t!e first mil& my Ageyl !ad een given in t!e two years of droug!t# (!e tra*& out of t!e valley w!en we rea*!ed its !ead was e3e*ra le, and t!e des*ent eyond into 'adi Marra&! almost dangerous) ut t!e view from t!e *rest *ompensated us# 'adi Marra&!, a road, pea*eful avenue, ran etween two regular straig!t walls of !ills to a *ir*us four miles off w!ere valleys from left, rig!t and front seemed to meet# Artifi*ial !eaps of un*ut stone were piled a out t!e approa*!# As we entered it, we saw t!at t!e grey !ill-walls swept a*& on ea*! side in a !alf-*ir*le# %efore us, to t!e sout!, t!e *urve was arred a*ross y a straig!t wall or step of lue- la*& lava, standing over a little grove of t!orn trees# 'e made for t!ese and lay down in t!eir t!in s!ade, grateful in su*! sultry air for any preten*e of *oolness# (!e day, now at its +enit!, was very !ot) and my wea&ness !ad so in*reased t!at my !ead !ardly !eld up against it# (!e puffs of feveris! wind pressed li&e s*or*!ing !ands against our fa*es, urning our eyes# My pain made me reat!e in gasps t!roug! t!e mout!) t!e wind *ra*&ed my lips and seared my t!roat till . was too dry to tal&, and drin&ing e*ame sore) yet . always needed to drin&, as my t!irst would not let me lie still and get t!e pea*e . longed for# (!e flies were a plague# (!e ed of t!e valley was of fine @uart+ gravel and w!ite sand# .ts glitter t!rust itself etween our eyelids) and t!e level of t!e ground seemed to dan*e as t!e wind moved t!e w!ite tips of stu le grass to and fro# (!e *amels loved t!is grass, w!i*! grew in tufts, a out si3teen in*!es !ig!, on slate-green stal&s# (!ey gulped down great @uantities of it until t!e men drove t!em in and *ou*!ed t!em y me# At t!e moment . !ated t!e easts, for too mu*! food made t!eir reat! stin&) and t!ey rum lingly el*!ed up a new mout!ful from t!eir stoma*!s ea*! time t!ey !ad *!ewed and swallowed t!e last, till a green slaver flooded out etween t!eir loose lips over t!e side teet!, and dripped down t!eir sagging *!ins#

2ying angrily t!ere, . t!rew a stone at t!e nearest, w!i*! got up and wavered a out e!ind my !eadfinally it straddled its a*& legs and staled in wide, itter >ets) and . was so far gone wit! t!e !eat and wea&ness and pain t!at . >ust lay t!ere and *ried a out it un!elping# (!e men !ad gone to ma&e a fire and *oo& a ga+elle one of t!em !ad fortunately s!ot) and . reali+ed t!at on anot!er day t!is !alt would !ave een pleasant to me) for t!e !ills were very strange and t!eir *olours vivid# (!e ase !ad t!e warm grey of old stored sunlig!t) w!ile a out t!eir *rests ran narrow veins of granite-*oloured stone, generally in pairs, following t!e *ontour of t!e s&yline li&e t!e rusted metals of an a andoned s*eni* railway# Arslan said t!e !ills were *om ed li&e *o*&s, a s!arper o servation# After t!e men !ad fed we re-mounted, and easily *lim ed t!e first wave of t!e lava flood# .t was s!ort, as was t!e se*ond, on t!e top of w!i*! lay a road terra*e wit! an alluvial plot of sand and gravel in its midst# (!e lava was a nearly *lean floor of iron-red ro*&-*inders, over w!i*! were s*attered fields of loose stone# (!e t!ird and ot!er steps as*ended to t!e sout! of us- ut we turned east, up 'adi Gara# Gara !ad, per!aps, een a granite valley down w!ose middle t!e lava !ad flowed, slowly filling it, and ar*!ing itself up in a *entral !eap# 8n ea*! side were deep troug!s, etween t!e lava and t!e !illside# "ain water flooded t!ese as often as storms urst in t!e !ills# (!e lava flow, as it *oagulated, !ad een twisted li&e a rope, *ra*&ed, and ent a*& irregularly upon itself# (!e surfa*e was loose wit! fragments t!roug! w!i*! many generations of *amel parties !ad worn an inade@uate and painful tra*&# 'e struggled along for !ours, going slowly, our *amels win*ing at every stride as t!e s!arp edges slipped eneat! t!eir tender feet# (!e pat!s were only to e seen y t!e droppings along t!em, and y t!e slig!tly luer surfa*es of t!e ru ed stones# (!e Ara s de*lared t!em impassa le after dar&, w!i*! was to e elieved, for we ris&ed laming our easts ea*! time our impatien*e made us urge t!em on# /ust efore five in t!e afternoon, !owever, t!e way got easier# 'e seemed to e near t!e !ead of t!e valley, w!i*! grew narrow# %efore us on t!e rig!t, an e3a*t *one-*rater, wit! tidy furrows s*oring it from lip to foot, promised good going) for it was made of la*& as!, *lean as t!oug! sifted, wit! !ere and t!ere a an& of !arder soil, and *inders# %eyond it was anot!er lava-field, older per!aps t!an t!e valleys, for its stones were smoot!ed, and etween t!em were strat!s of flat eart!, ran& wit! weeds# .n among t!ese open spa*es were %eduin tents, w!ose owners ran to us w!en t!ey saw us *oming) and, ta&ing our !ead-stalls wit! !ospita le for*e, led us in# (!ey proved to e S!ei&! :a!ad el $ans!a and !is men- old and garrulous warriors w!o !ad mar*!ed wit! us to 'e>!, and !ad een wit! Garland on t!at great o**asion w!en !is first automati* mine !ad su**eeded under a troop train near (oweira station# :a!ad would not !ear of my resting @uietly outside !is tent, ut wit! t!e re*&less e@uality of t!e desert men urged me into an unfortunate pla*e inside among !is own vermin# (!ere !e plied me wit! owl after owl of diureti* *amel-mil& etween @uestions a out 4urope, my !ome tri e, t!e 4nglis! *amel-pasturages, t!e war in t!e $e>a+ and t!e wars elsew!ere, 4gypt and Damas*us, !ow :eisal was, w!y did we see& A dulla, and y w!at perversity did . remain C!ristian, w!en t!eir !earts and !ands waited to wel*ome me to t!e :ait!J So passed long !ours till ten at nig!t, w!en t!e guest-s!eep was *arried in, dismem ered royally over a !uge pile of uttered ri*e# . ate as manners demanded, twisted myself up in my *loa&, and slept) my odily e3!austion, after t!ose !ours of t!e worst imagina le mar*!ing, proofing me against t!e onslaug!t of li*e and fleas# (!e illness, !owever, !ad stimulated my ordinarily sluggis! fan*y, w!i*! ran riot t!is nig!t in dreams of wandering na&ed for a dar& eternity over intermina le lava Bli&e s*ram led egg gone iron- lue, and very wrongC, s!arp as inse*t- ites underfoot) and wit! some !orror, per!aps a dead Moor, always *lim ing after us# .n t!e morning we wo&e early and refres!ed, wit! our *lot!es stinging-full of fiery points feeding on us# After one more owl of mil& proffered us y t!e eager :a!ad, . was a le to wal& unaided to my *amel and mount !er a*tively# 'e rode up t!e last pie*e of 'adi Gara to t!e *rest, among *ones of la*& *inders from a *rater to t!e sout!# (!en*e we turned to a ran*! valley, ending in a steep and ro*&y *!imney, up w!i*! we pulled our *amels#

%eyond we !ad an easy des*ent into 'adi Murrmiya, w!ose middle ristled wit! lava li&e galvani+ed iron, on ea*! side of w!i*! t!ere were smoot! sandy eds, good going# After a w!ile we *ame to a fault in t!e flow, w!i*! served as a tra*& to t!e ot!er side# %y it we *rossed over, finding t!e lava po*&eted wit! soils apparently of e3treme ri*!ness, for in t!em were leafy trees and lawns of real grass, starred wit! flowers, t!e est gra+ing of all our ride, loo&ing t!e more wonderfully green e*ause of t!e lue- la*& twisted *rusts of ro*& a out# (!e lava !ad *!anged its *!ara*ter# $ere were no piles of loose stones, as ig as a s&ull or a man?s !and, ru ed and rounded toget!er) ut un*!ed and *rystalli+ed fronds of metalli* ro*&, altoget!er impassa le for are feet# Anot!er waters!ed *ondu*ted us t o an open pla*e w!ere t!e /e!eina !ad ploug!ed some eig!t a*res of t!e t!in soil elow a t!i*&et of s*ru # (!ey said t!ere were li&e it in t!e neig! our!ood ot!er fields, silent witnesses to t!e *ourage and persisten*e of t!e Ara s# .t was *alled 'adi C!etl, and after it was anot!er ro&en river of lava, t!e worst yet en*ountered# A s!adowy pat! +ig+agged a*ross it# 'e lost one *amel wit! a ro&en fore-leg, t!e result of a stum le in a pot-!ole) and t!e many ones w!i*! lay a out s!owed t!at we were not t!e only party to suffer misfortune in t!e passage# $owever, t!is ended our lava, a**ording to t!e guides, and we went t!en*e forward along easy valleys wit! finally a long run up a gentle slope till dus&# (!e going was so good and t!e *ool of t!e day so fres!ened me t!at we did not !alt at nig!tfall, after our !a it, ut pus!ed on for an !our a*ross t!e asin of Murrmiya into t!e asin of 'adi Ais, and t!ere, y (lei!, we stopped for our last *amp in t!e open# . re>oi*ed t!at we were so nearly in, for fever was !eavy on me# . was afraid t!at per!aps . was going to e really ill, and t!e prospe*t of falling into t!e well-meaning !ands of tri esmen in su*! a state was not pleasant# (!eir treatment of every si*&ness was to urn !oles in t!e patient?s ody at some spot elieved to e t!e *omplement of t!e part affe*ted# .t was a *ure tolera le to su*! as !ad fait! in it, ut torture to t!e un elieving- to in*ur it unwillingly would e silly, and yet *ertain) for t!e Ara s? good intentions, selfis! as t!eir good digestions, would never !eed a si*& man?s protesting# (!e morning was easy, over open valleys and gentle rides into 'adi Ais# 'e arrived at A u Mar&!a, its nearest watering-pla*e, >ust a few minutes after S!erif A dulla !ad dismounted t!ere, and w!ile !e was ordering !is tents to e pit*!ed in an a*a*ia glade eyond t!e well# $e was leaving !is old *amp at %ir el Amri, lower down t!e valley, as !e !ad left Mura a, !is *amp efore, e*ause t!e ground !ad een fouled y t!e *areless multitude of !is men and animals# . gave !im t!e do*uments from :eisal, e3plaining t!e situation in Medina, and t!e need we !ad of !aste to lo*& t!e railway # . t!oug!t !e too& it *oolly) ut, wit!out argument, went on to say t!at . was a little tired after my >ourney, and wit! !is permission would lie down and sleep a w!ile# $e pit*!ed me a tent ne3t !is great mar@uee, and . went into it and rested myself at last# .t !ad een a struggle against faintness day-long in t!e saddle to get !ere at all- and now t!e strain was ended wit! t!e delivery of my message, . felt t!at anot!er !our would !ave roug! t t!e rea&ing point#

&()PTE" ...III
A out ten days . lay in t!at tent, suffering a odily wea&ness w!i*! made my animal self *rawl away and !ide till t!e s!ame was passed# As usual in su*! *ir*umstan*es my mind *leared, my senses e*ame more a*ute, and . egan at last to t!in& *onse*utively of t!e Ara "evolt, as an a**ustomed duty to rest upon against t!e pain# .t s!ould !ave een t!oug!t out long efore, ut at my first landing in $e>a+ t!ere !ad een a *rying need for a*tion, and we !ad done w!at seemed to instin*t est, not pro ing into t!e w!y, nor formulating w!at we really wanted at t!e end of all# .nstin*t t!us a used wit!out a asis of past &nowledge and refle*tion !ad grown intuitive, feminine, and was now lea*!ing my *onfiden*e) so in t!is for*ed ina*tion . loo&ed for t!e e@uation etween my oo&reading and my movements, and spent t!e intervals of uneasy sleeps and dreams in plu*&ing at t!e tangle of our present# As . !ave s!own, . was unfortunately as mu*! in *ommand of t!e *ampaign as . pleased, and was

untrained# .n military t!eory . was tolera ly read, my 83ford *uriosity !aving ta&en me past 0apoleon to Clausewit+ and !is s*!ool, to Caemmerer and Molt&e, and t!e re*ent :ren*!men# (!ey !ad all seemed to e one-sided) and after loo&ing at /omini and 'illisen, . !ad found roader prin*iples in Sa3e and Gui ert and t!e eig!teent! *entury# $owever, Clausewit+ was intelle*tually so mu*! t!e master of t!em, and !is oo& so logi*al and fas*inating, t!at un*ons*iously . a**epted !is finality, until a *omparison of ;u!ne and :o*! disgusted me wit! soldiers, wearied me of t!eir offi*ious glory, ma&ing me *riti*al of all t!eir lig!t# .n any *ase, my interest !ad een a stra*t, *on*erned wit! t!e t!eory and p!ilosop!y of warfare espe*ially from t!e metap!ysi*al side# 0ow, in t!e field everyt!ing !ad een *on*rete, parti*ularly t!e tiresome pro lem of Medina) and to distra*t myself from t!at . egan to re*all suita le ma3ims on t!e *ondu*t of modern, s*ientifi* war# %ut t!ey would not fit, and it worried me# $it!erto, Medina !ad een an o session for us all) ut now t!at . was ill, its image was not *lear, w!et!er it was t!at we were near to it Bone seldom li&ed t!e attaina leC, or w!et!er it was t!at my eyes were misty wit! too *onstant staring at t!e utt# 8ne afternoon . wo&e from a !ot sleep, running wit! sweat and pri*&ing wit! flies, and wondered w!at on eart! was t!e good of Medina to usJ .ts !armfulness !ad een patent w!en we were at 1en o and t!e (ur&s in it were going to Me**a- ut we !ad *!anged all t!at y our mar*! to 'e>!# (o-day we were lo*&ading t!e railway, and t!ey only defending it# (!e garrison of Medina, redu*ed to an inoffensive si+e, were sitting in tren*!es destroying t!eir own power of movement y eating t!e transport t!ey *ould no longer feed# 'e !ad ta&en away t!eir power to !arm us, and yet wanted to ta&e away t!eir town# .t was not a ase for us li&e 'e>!, nor a t!reat li&e 'adi Ais# '!at on eart! did we want it forJ (!e *amp was estirring itself after t!e torpor of t!e midday !ours) and noises from t!e world outside egan to filter in to me past t!e yellow lining of t!e tent-*anvas, w!ose every !ole and tear was sta ed t!roug! y a long dagger of sunlig!t# . !eard t!e stamping and snorting of t!e !orses plagued wit! flies w!ere t!ey stood in t!e s!adow of t!e trees, t!e *omplaint of *amels, t!e ringing of *offee mortars, distant s!ots# (o t!eir urden . egan to drum out t!e aim in war# (!e oo&s gave it pat--t!e destru*tion of t!e armed for*es of t!e enemy y t!e one pro*ess- attle# <i*tory *ould !e pur*!ased only y lood# (!is was a !ard saying for us# As t!e Ara s !ad no organi+ed for*es, a (ur&is! :o*! would !ave no aimJ (!e Ara s would not endure *asualties# $ow would our Clausewit+ uy !is vi*toryJ <on der Golt+ !ad seemed to go deeper, saying it was ne*essary not to anni!ilate t!e enemy, ut to rea& !is *ourage# 8nly we s!owed no prospe*t of ever rea&ing any ody?s *ourage# $owever, Golt+ was a !um ug, and t!ese wise men must e tal&ing metap!ors) for we were indu ita ly winning our war) and as . pondered slowly, it dawned on me t!at we !ad won t!e $e>a+ war# 8ut of every t!ousand s@uare miles of $e>a+ nine !undred and ninety-nine were now free# Did my provo&ed >ape at <i*&ery, t!at re ellion was more li&e pea*e t!an li&e war, !old as mu*! trut! as !asteJ ,er!aps in war t!e a solute did rule, ut for pea*e a ma>ority was good enoug!# .f we !eld t!e rest, t!e (ur&s were wel*ome to t!e tiny fra*tion on w!i*! t!ey stood, till pea*e or Doomsday s!owed t!em t!e futility of *linging to our window-pane# . rus!ed off t!e same flies on*e more from my fa*e patiently, *ontent to &now t!at t!e $e>a+ 'ar was won and finis!ed wit!- won from t!e day we too& 'e>!, if we !ad !ad wit to see it# (!en . ro&e t!e t!read of my argument again to listen# (!e distant s!ots !ad grown and tied t!emselves into long, ragged volleys# (!ey *eased# . strained my ears for t!e ot!er sounds w!i*! . &new would follow# Sure enoug! a*ross t!e silen*e *ame a rustle li&e t!e dragging of a s&irt over t!e flints, around t!e t!in walls of my tent# A pause, w!ile t!e *amel-riders drew up- and t!en t!e soggy tapping of *anes on t!e t!i*& of t!e easts? ne*&s to ma&e t!em &neel# (!ey &nelt wit!out noise- and . timed it in my memory- first t!e !esitation, as t!e *amels, loo&ing down, felt t!e soil wit! one foot for a soft pla*e) t!en t!e muffled t!ud and t!e sudden loosening of reat! as t!ey dropped on t!eir fore-legs, sin*e t!is party !ad *ome far and were tired) t!en t!e s!uffle as t!e !ind legs were folded in, and t!e ro*&ing as t!ey tossed from side to side t!rusting outward wit! t!eir &nees to ury t!em in t!e *ooler su soil elow t!e urning flints, w!ile t!e riders, wit! a @ui*& soft patter of are feet, li&e irds over t!e ground, were led off ta*itly eit!er to t!e *offee !eart!

or to A dulla?s tent, a**ording to t!eir usiness# (!e *amels would rest t!ere, uneasily swit*!ing t!eir tails a*ross t!e s!ingle till t!eir masters were free and loo&ed to t!eir sta ling# . !ad made a *omforta le eginning of do*trine, ut was left still to find an alternative end and means of war# 8urs seemed unli&e t!e ritual of w!i*! :o*! was priest) and . re*alled !im, to see a differen*e in land etween him and us# .n !is modern war--a solute war !e *alled it--two nations professing in*ompati le p!ilosop!ies put t!em to t!e test of for*e# ,!ilosop!i*ally, it was idioti*, for w!ile opinions were argua le, *onvi*tons needed s!ooting to e *ured) and t!e struggle *ould end only w!en t!e supporters of t!e one immaterial prin*iple !ad no more means of resistan*e against t!e supporters of t!e ot!er# .t sounded li&e a twentiet!-*entury restatement of t!e wars of religion, w!ose logi*al end was utter destru*tion of one *reed, and w!ose protagonists elieved t!at God?s >udgement would prevail# (!is mig!t do for :ran*e and Germany, ut would not represent t!e %ritis! attitude# 8ur Army was not intelligently maintaining a p!ilosop!i* *on*eption in :landers or on t!e Canal# 4fforts to ma&e our men !ate t!e enemy usually made t!em !ate t!e fig!ting# .ndeed :o*! !ad &no*&ed out !is own argument y saying t!at su*! war depended on levy in mass, and was impossi le wit! professional armies) w!ile t!e old army was still t!e %ritis! ideal, and its manner t!e am ition of our ran&s and our files# (o me t!e :o*! war seemed only an e3terminative variety, no more a solute t!an anot!er# 8ne *ould as e3pli*a ly *all it ?murder war?# Clausewit+ enumerated all sorts of war # # # personal wars, >oint-pro3y duels, for dynasti* reasons # # # e3pulsive wars, in party politi*s # # # *ommer*ial wars, for trade o >e*ts # # # two wars seemed seldom ali&e# 8ften t!e parties did not &now t!eir aim, and lundered till t!e mar*! of events too& *ontrol# <i*tory in general !a it leaned to t!e *lear-sig!ted, t!oug! fortune and superior intelligen*e *ould ma&e a sad muddle of nature?s ?ine3ora le? law# . wondered w!y :eisal wanted to fig!t t!e (ur&s, and w!y t!e Ara s !elped !im, and saw t!at t!eir aim was geograp!i*al, to e3trude t!e(ur& from all Ara i*-spea&ing lands in Asia# (!eir pea*e ideal of li erty *ould e3er*ise itself only so# .n pursuit of t!e ideal *onditions we mig!t &ill (ur&s, e*ause we disli&ed t!em very mu*!) ut t!e &illing was a pure lu3ury# .f t!ey would go @uietly t!e war would end# .f not, we would urge t!em, or try to drive t!em out# .n t!e last resort, we s!ould e *ompelled to t!e desperate *ourse of lood and t!e ma3ims of ?murder war?, ut as *!eaply as *ould e for ourselves, sin*e t!e Ara s foug!t for freedom, and t!at was a pleasure to e tasted only y a man alive# ,osterity was a *!illy t!ing to wor& for, no matter !ow mu*! a man !appened to love !is own, or ot!er people?s already-produ*ed *!ildren# At t!is point a slave slapped my tent-door, and as&ed if t!e 4mir mig!t *all# So . struggled into more *lot!es, and *rawled over to !is great tent to sound t!e dept! of motive in !im# .t was a *omforta le pla*e, lu3uriously s!aded and *arpeted deep in strident rugs, t!e aniline-dyed spoils of $ussein Ma eirig?s !ouse in "a eg!# A dulla passed most of !is day in it, laug!ing wit! !is friends, and playing games wit! Mo!ammed $assan, t!e *ourt >ester# . set t!e all of *onversation rolling etween !im and S!a&ir and t!e *!an*e s!ei&!s, among w!om was t!e fire-!earted :er!an el Aida, t!e son of Doug!ty?s Motlog) and . was rewarded, for A dulla?s words were definite# $e *ontrasted !is !earers? present independen*e wit! t!eir past servitude to (ur&ey, and roundly said t!at tal& of (ur&is! !eresy, or t!e immoral do*trine of yeni turan, or t!e illegitimate Calip!ate was eside t!e point# .t was Ara *ountry, and t!e (ur&s were in it- t!at was t!e one issue# My argument preened itself# (!e ne3t day a great *ompli*ation of oils developed out, to *on*eal my lessened fever, and to *!ain me down yet longer in impoten*e upon my fa*e in t!is stin&ing tent# '!en it grew too !ot for dreamless do+ing, . pi*&ed up my tangle again, and went on ravelling it out, *onsidering now t!e w!ole !ouse of war in its stru*tural aspe*t, w!i*! was strategy, in its arrangements, w!i*! were ta*ti*s, and in t!e sentiment of its in!a itants, w!i*! was psy*!ology) for my personal duty was *ommand, and t!e *ommander, li&e t!e master ar*!ite*t, was responsi le for all# (!e first *onfusion was t!e false antit!esis etween strategy, t!e aim in war, t!e synopti* regard seeing ea*! part relative to t!e w!ole, and ta*ti*s, t!e means towards a strategi* end, t!e parti*ular steps of its stair*ase# (!ey seemed only points of view from w!i*! to ponder t!e elements of war, t!e

Alge rai*al element of t!ings, a %iologi*al element of lives, and t!e ,sy*!ologi*al element of ideas# (!e alge rai*al element loo&ed to me a pure s*ien*e, su >e*t to mat!emati*al law, in!uman# .t dealt wit! &nown varia les, fi3ed *onditions, spa*e and time, inorgani* t!ings li&e !ills and *limates and railways, wit! man&ind in type-masses too great for individual variety, wit! all artifi*ial aids and t!e e3tensions given our fa*ulties y me*!ani*al invention# .t was essentially formula le# $ere was a pompous, professorial eginning# My wits, !ostile to t!e a stra*t, too& refuge in Ara ia again# (ranslated into Ara i*, t!e alge rai* fa*tor would first ta&e pra*ti*al a**ount of t!e area we wis!ed to deliver, and . egan idly to *al*ulate !ow many s@uare miles- si3ty- eig!ty- one !undredper!aps one !undred and forty t!ousand s@uare miles# And !ow would t!e (ur&s defend all t!atJ 0o dou t y a tren*! line a*ross t!e ottom, if we *ame li&e an army wit! anners) ut suppose we were Bas we mig!t eC an influen*e, an idea, a t!ing intangi le, invulnera le, wit!out front or a*&, drifting a out li&e a gasJ Armies were li&e plants, immo ile, firm-rooted, nouris!ed t!roug! long stems to t!e !ead# 'e mig!t e a vapour, lowing w!ere we listed# 8ur &ingdoms lay in ea*! man?s mind) and as we wanted not!ing material to live on, so we mig!t offer not!ing material to t!e &illing# .t seemed a regular soldier mig!t e !elpless wit!out a target, owning only w!at !e sat on, and su >ugating only w!at, y order, !e *ould po&e !is rifle at# (!en . figured out !ow many men t!ey would need to sit on all t!is ground, to save it from our atta*&in-dept!, sedition putting up !er !ead in every uno**upied one of t!ose !undred t!ousand s@uare miles# . &new t!e (ur&is! Army e3a*tly, and even allowing for t!eir re*ent e3tension of fa*ulty y aeroplanes and guns and armoured trains Bw!i*! made t!e eart! a smaller attlefieldC still it seemed t!ey would !ave need of a fortified post every four s@uare miles, and a post *ould not e less t!an twenty men# .f so, t!ey would need si3 !undred t!ousand men to meet t!e ill-wills of all t!e Ara peoples, *om ined wit! t!e a*tive !ostility of a few +ealots# $ow many +ealots *ould we !aveJ At present we !ad nearly fifty t!ousand- suffi*ient for t!e day# .t seemed t!e assets in t!is element of war were ours# .f we reali+ed our raw materials and were apt wit! t!em, t!en *limate, railway, desert, and te*!ni*al weapons *ould also e atta*!ed to our interests# (!e (ur&s were stupid) t!e Germans e!ind t!em dogmati*al# (!ey would elieve t!at re ellion was a solute li&e war, and deal wit! it on t!e analogy of war# Analogy in !uman t!ings was fudge, any!ow) and war upon re ellion was messy and slow, li&e eating soup wit! a &nife# (!is was enoug! of t!e *on*rete) so . s!eered off EG"44;-see ?Gree& image 2? elowF, t!e mat!emati*al element, and plunged into t!e nature of t!e iologi*al fa*tor in *ommand# .ts *risis seemed to e t!e rea&ing point, life and deat!, or less finally, wear and tear# (!e war-p!ilosop!ers !ad properly made an art of it, and !ad elevated one item, ?effusion of lood?, to t!e !eig!t of an essential, w!i*! e*ame !umanity in attle, an a*t tou*!ing every side of our *orporal eing, and very warm# A line of varia ility, Man, persisted li&e leaven t!roug! its estimates, ma&ing t!em irregular# (!e *omponents were sensitive and illogi*al, and generals guarded t!emselves y t!e devi*e of a reserve, t!e signifi*ant medium of t!eir art# Golt+ !ad said t!at if you &new t!e enemy?s strengt!, and !e was fully deployed, t!en you *ould dispense wit! a reserve- ut t!is was never# (!e possi ility of a**ident, of some flaw in materials was always in t!e general?s mind, and t!e reserve un*ons*iously !eld to meet it#

Greek image (!e ?felt? element in troops, not e3pressi le in figures, !ad to e guessed at y t!e e@uivalent of ,lato?s EG"44;-see ?Gree& image K? elowF, and t!e greatest *ommander of men was !e w!ose intuitions most nearly !appened# 0ine-tent!s of ta*ti*s were *ertain enoug! to e tea*!a le in s*!ools) ut t!e irrational tent! was li&e t!e &ingfis!er flas!ing a*ross t!e pool, and in it lay t!e test of generals# .t *ould e ensued only y instin*t Bs!arpened y t!oug!t pra*tising t!e stro&eC until at t!e *risis it *ame naturally, a refle3# (!ere !ad een men w!ose EG"44;-see ?Gree& image K? elowF so nearly

approa*!ed perfe*tion t!at y its road t!ey rea*!ed t!e *ertainty of EG"44;-see ?Gree& image 2? a oveF# (!e Gree&s mig!t !ave *alled su*! genius for *ommand EG"44;-see ?Gree& image I? elowF) !ad t!ey ot!ered to rationali+e revolt#

Greek image !

Greek image $ My mind seesawed a*& to apply t!is to ourselves, and at on*e &new t!at it was not ounded y man&ind, t!at it applied also to materials# .n (ur&ey t!ings were s*ar*e and pre*ious, men less esteemed t!an e@uipment# 8ur *ue was to destroy, not t!e (ur&?s army, ut !is minerals# (!e deat! of a (ur&is! ridge or rail, ma*!ine or gun or *!arge of !ig! e3plosive, was more profita le to us t!an t!e deat! of a (ur&# .n t!e Ara Army at t!e moment we were *!ary ot! of materials and of men# Governments saw men only in mass) ut our men, eing irregulars, were not formations, ut individuals# An individual deat!, li&e a pe le dropped in water, mig!t ma&e ut a rief !ole) yet rings of sorrow widened out t!erefrom # 'e *ould not afford *asualties# Materials were easier to repla*e# .t was our o vious poli*y to e superior in some one tangi le ran*!) gun-*otton or ma*!ine-guns or w!atever *ould e made de*isive# 8rt!odo3y !ad laid down t!e ma3im, applied to men, of eing superior at t!e *riti*al point and moment of atta*&# 'e mig!t e superior in e@uipment in one dominant moment or respe*t) and for ot! t!ings and men we mig!t give t!e do*trine a twisted negative side, for *!eapness? sa&e, and e wea&er t!an t!e enemy everyw!ere e3*ept in t!at one point or matter# (!e de*ision of w!at was *riti*al would always e ours# Most wars were wars of *onta*t, ot! for*es striving into tou*! to avoid ta*ti*al surprise# 8urs s!ould e a war of deta*!ment# 'e were to *ontain t!e enemy y t!e silent t!reat of a vast un&nown desert, not dis*losing ourselves till we atta*&ed# (!e atta*& mig!t e nominal, dire*ted not against !im, ut against !is stuff) so it would not see& eit!er !is strengt! or !is wea&ness, ut !is most a**essi le material# .n railway-*utting it would e usually an empty stret*! of rail) and t!e more empty, t!e greater t!e ta*ti*al su**ess# 'e mig!t turn our average into a rule Bnot a law, sin*e war was antinomianC and develop a !a it of never engaging t!e enemy# (!is would *!ime wit! t!e numeri*al plea for never affording a target# Many (ur&s on our front !ad no *!an*e all t!e war to fire on us, and we were never on t!e defensive e3*ept y a**ident and in error# (!e *orollary of su*! a rule was perfe*t ?intelligen*e?, so t!at we *ould plan in *ertainty# (!e *!ief agent must e t!e general?s !ead) and !is understanding must e faultless, leaving no room for *!an*e# Morale, if uilt on &nowledge, was ro&en y ignoran*e# '!en we &new all a out t!e enemy we s!ould e *omforta le# 'e must ta&e more pains in t!e servi*e of news t!an any regular staff# . was getting t!roug! my su >e*t# (!e alge rai*al fa*tor !ad een translated into terms of Ara ia, and fitted li&e a glove# .t promised vi*tory# (!e iologi*al fa*tor !ad di*tated to us a development of t!e ta*ti*al line most in a**ord wit! t!e genius of our tri esmen# (!ere remained t!e psy*!ologi*al element to uild up into an apt s!ape# . went to =enop!on and stole, to name it, !is word diathetics, w!i*! !ad een t!e art of Cyrus efore !e stru*&# 8f t!is our ?propaganda? was t!e stained and igno le offspring# .t was t!e pat!i*, almost t!e et!i*al, in war# Some of it *on*erned t!e *rowd, an ad>ustment of its spirit to t!e point w!ere it e*ame useful to e3ploit in a*tion, and t!e pre-dire*tion of t!is *!anging spirit to a *ertain end# Some of it *on*erned t!e individual, and t!en it e*ame a rare art of !uman &indness, trans*ending, y purposed emotion, t!e gradual logi*al se@uen*e of t!e mind# .t was more su tle t!an ta*ti*s, and etter wort! doing, e*ause it dealt wit! un*ontrolla les, wit! su >e*ts in*apa le of dire*t *ommand# .t *onsidered t!e *apa*ity for mood of our men, t!eir *omple3ities and muta ility, and t!e *ultivation of w!atever in

t!em promised to profit our intention# 'e !ad to arrange t!eir minds in order of attle >ust as *arefully and as formally as ot!er offi*ers would arrange t!eir odies# And not only our own men?s minds, t!oug! naturally t!ey *ame first# 'e must also arrange t!e minds of t!e enemy, so far as we *ould rea*! t!em) t!en t!ose ot!er minds of t!e nation supporting us e!ind t!e firing line, sin*e more t!an !alf t!e attle passed t!ere in t!e a*&) t!en t!e minds of t!e enemy nation waiting t!e verdi*t) and of t!e neutrals loo&ing on) *ir*le eyond *ir*le# (!ere were many !umiliating material limits, ut no moral impossi ilities) so t!at t!e s*ope of our diat!eti*al a*tivities was un ounded# 8n it we s!ould mainly depend for t!e means of vi*tory on t!e Ara front- and t!e novelty of it was our advantage# (!e printing press, and ea*! newly-dis*overed met!od of *ommuni*ation favoured t!e intelle*tual a ove t!e p!ysi*al, *ivili+ation paying t!e mind always from t!e ody?s funds# 'e &indergarten soldiers were eginning our art of war in t!e atmosp!ere of t!e twentiet! *entury, re*eiving our weapons wit!out pre>udi*e# (o t!e regular offi*er, wit! t!e tradition of forty generations of servi*e e!ind !im, t!e anti@ue arms were t!e most !onoured# As we !ad seldom to *on*ern ourselves wit! w!at our men did, ut always wit! w!at t!ey t!oug!t, t!e diat!eti* for us would e more t!an !alf t!e *ommand# .n 4urope it was set a little aside, and entrusted to men outside t!e General Staff# .n Asia t!e regular elements were so wea& t!at irregulars *ould not let t!e metap!ysi*al weapon rust unused# %attles in Ara ia were a mista&e, sin*e we profited in t!em only y t!e ammunition t!e enemy fired off# 0apoleon !ad said it was rare to find generals willing to fig!t attles) ut t!e *urse of t!is war was t!at so few would do anyt!ing else# Sa3e !ad told us t!at irrational attles were t!e refuges of fools- rat!er t!ey seemed to me impositions on t!e side w!i*! elieved itself wea&er, !a+ards made unavoida le eit!er y la*& of land room or y t!e need to defend a material property dearer t!an t!e lives of soldiers# 'e !ad not!ing material to lose, so our est line was to defend not!ing and to s!oot not!ing# 8ur *ards were speed and time, not !itting power# (!e invention of ully eef !ad profited us more t!an t!e invention of gunpowder, ut gave us strategi*al rat!er t!an ta*ti*al strengt!, sin*e in Ara ia range was more t!an for*e, spa*e greater t!an t!e power of armies# . !ad now een eig!t days lying in t!is remote tent, &eeping my ideas general, till my rain, si*& of unsupported t!in&ing, !ad to e dragged to its wor& y an effort of will, and went off into a do+e w!enever t!at effort was rela3ed# (!e fever passed- my dysentery *eased) and wit! restored strengt! t!e present again e*ame a*tual to me# :a*ts *on*rete and pertinent t!rust t!emselves into my reveries) and my in*onstant wit ore aside towards all t!ese roads of es*ape# So . !urried into line my s!adowy prin*iples, to !ave t!em on*e pre*ise efore my power to evo&e t!em faded# .t seemed to me proven t!at our re ellion !ad an unassaila le ase, guarded not only from atta*&, ut from t!e fear of atta*&# .t !ad a sop!isti*ated alien enemy, disposed as an army of o**upation in an area greater t!an *ould e dominated effe*tively from fortified posts# .t !ad a friendly population, of w!i*! some two in t!e !undred were a*tive, and t!e rest @uietly sympat!eti* to t!e point of not etraying t!e movements of t!e minority# (!e a*tive re els !ad t!e virtues of se*re*y and self-*ontrol, and t!e @ualities of speed, enduran*e and independen*e of arteries of supply# (!ey !ad te*!ni*al e@uipment enoug! to paralyse t!e enemy?s *ommuni*ations# A provin*e would e won w!en we !ad taug!t t!e *ivilians in it to die for our ideal of freedom# (!e presen*e of t!e enemy was se*ondary# :inal vi*tory seemed *ertain, if t!e war lasted long enoug! for us to wor& it out#

&()PTE" ...I+
8 viously . was well again, and . remem ered t!e reason of my >ourney to 'adi Ais# (!e (ur&s meant to mar*! out of Medina, and Sir Ar*!i ald Murray wanted us to atta*& t!em in professional form# .t was ir&some t!at !e s!ould *ome utting into our s!ow from 4gypt, as&ing from us alien a*tivities# 1et t!e %ritis! were t!e igger) and t!e Ara s lived only y gra*e of t!eir s!adow# 'e were yo&ed to Sir Ar*!i ald Murray, and must wor& wit! !im, to t!e point of sa*rifi*ing our non-essential interests for !is, if t!ey would not e re*on*iled# At t!e same time we *ould not possi ly a*t ali&e# :eisal mig!t e a free gas- Sir Ar*!i ald?s army, pro a ly t!e most *um rous in t!e world, !ad to e

la oriously pus!ed forward on its elly# .t was ridi*ulous to suppose it *ould &eep pa*e wit! et!i*al *on*eptions as nim le as t!e Ara Movement- dou tful even if it would understand t!em# $owever, per!aps y !indering t!e railway we *ould frig!ten t!e (ur&s off t!eir plan to eva*uate Medina, and give t!em reason to remain in t!e town on t!e defensive- a *on*lusion !ig!ly servi*ea le to ot! Ara s and 4nglis!, t!oug! possi ly neit!er would see it, yet# A**ordingly, . wandered into A dulla?s tent, announ*ing my *omplete re*overy and an am ition to do somet!ing to t!e $e>a+ railway# $ere were men, guns, ma*!ine-guns, e3plosives and automati* mines- enoug! for a main effort# %ut A dulla was apat!eti*# $e wanted to tal& a out t!e "oyal families of 4urope, or t!e %attle of t!e Somme- t!e slow mar*! of !is own war ored !im# $owever, S!erif S!a&ir, !is *ousin and se*ond in *ommand, was fired to ent!usiasm, and se*ured us li*en*e to do our worst# S!a&ir loved t!e Atei a, and swore t!ey were t!e est tri e on eart!) so we settled to ta&e mostly Atei a wit! us# (!en we t!oug!t we mig!t !ave a mountain gun, one of t!e 4gyptian Army ;rupp veterans, w!i*! !ad een sent y :eisal toA dulla from 'e>! as a present# S!a&ir promised to *olle*t t!e for*e, and we agreed t!at . s!ould go in front Bgently, as efitted my wea&nessC and sear*! for a target# (!e nearest and iggest was A a el 0aam Station# 'it! me went "a!o, Algerian offi*er in t!e :ren*! Army, and mem er of %remond?s mission, a very !ard-wor&ing and !onest fellow# 8ur guide was Mo!ammed el ;ad!i, w!ose old fat!er, Da&!il-Alla!, !ereditary lawman of t!e /u!eina, !ad guided t!e (ur&s down to 1en o last De*em er# Mo!ammed was eig!teen, solid and silent natured# S!erif :au+an el $arit!, t!e famous warrior w!o !ad *aptured 4s!ref at /an ila, es*orted us, wit! a out twenty Atei a and five or si3 /u!eina adventurers# 'e left on Mar*! t!e twenty-si3t!, w!ile Sir Ar*!i ald Murray was atta*&ing Ga+a) and rode down 'adi Ais) ut after t!ree !ours t!e !eat proved too mu*! for me, and we stopped y a great sidr tree Blote or >u>u e, ut t!e fruit was s*ar*eC and rested under it t!e midday !ours# Sidr trees *ast !eavy s!ade- t!ere was a *ool east wind, and few flies# 'adi Ais was lu3uriant wit! t!orn trees and grass, and its air full of w!ite utterflies and s*ents of wild flowers) so t!at we did not remount till late in t!e afternoon, and t!en did only a s!ort mar*!, leaving 'adi Ais y t!e rig!t, after passing in an angle of t!e valley a ruined terra*e and *istern# 8n*e t!ere !ad een villages in t!is part, wit! t!e underground waters *arefully employed in t!eir fre@uent gardens) ut now it was waste# (!e following morning we !ad two !ours? roug! riding around t!e spurs of /e el Serd into 'adi (uraa, a !istori* valley, lin&ed y an easy pass to 'adi 1en o# 'e spent t!is midday also under a tree, near some /u!eina tents, w!ere Mo!ammed guested w!ile we slept# (!en we rode on rat!er *roo&edly for two more !ours, and *amped after dar&# %y ill lu*& an early spring s*orpion stung me severely on t!e left !and w!ile . lay down to sleep# (!e pla*e swelled up) and my arm e*ame stiff and sore# At five ne3t morning, after a long nig!t, we restarted, and passed t!roug! t!e last !ills, out into t!e /urf, an undulating open spa*e w!i*! ran up sout!ward to /e el Antar, a *rater wit! a split and *astellated top, ma&ing it a landmar&# 'e turned !alf-rig!t in t!e plain, to get under *over of t!e low !ills w!i*! s*reened it from 'adi $amd!, in w!ose ed t!e railway lay# %e!ind t!ese !ills we rode sout!ward till opposite A a el 0aam# (!ere we !alted to *amp, *lose to t!e enemy ut @uite in safety# (!e !ill-top *ommanded t!em) and we *lim ed it efore sunset for a first view of t!e station# (!e !ill was, per!aps, si3 !undred feet !ig! and steep, and . made many stages of it, resting on my way up- ut t!e sig!t from t!e top was good# (!e railway was some t!ree miles off# (!e station !ad a pair of large, two-storied !ouses of asalt, a *ir*ular watertower, and ot!er uildings# (!ere were elltents, !uts and tren*!es, ut no sign of guns# 'e *ould see a out t!ree !undred men in all# 'e !ad !eard t!at t!e (ur&s patrolled t!eir neig! our!ood a*tively at nig!t# A ad !a it t!is- so we sent off two men to lie y ea*! lo*&!ouse, and fire a few s!ots after dar&# (!e enemy, t!in&ing it a prelude to atta*&, stood-to in t!eir tren*!es all nig!t, w!ile we were *omforta ly sleeping) ut t!e *old wo&e us early wit! a restless dawn wind lowing a*ross t!e /urf, and singing in t!e great trees round our *amp# As we *lim ed to our o servation point t!e sun *on@uered t!e *louds and an !our later it grew very !ot#

'e lay li&e li+ards in t!e long grass round t!e stones of t!e foremost *airn upon t!e !ill-top, and saw t!e garrison parade# (!ree !undred and ninety-nine infantry, little toy men, ran a out w!en t!e ugle sounded, and formed up in stiff lines elow t!e la*& uilding till t!ere was more ugling- t!en t!ey s*attered, and after a few minutes t!e smo&e of *oo&ing fires went up# A !erd of s!eep and goats in *!arge of a little ragged oy issued out towards us# %efore !e rea*!ed t!e foot of t!e !ills t!ere *ame a loud w!istling down t!e valley from t!e nort!, and a tiny, pi*ture- oo& train rolled slowly into view a*ross t!e !ollow sounding ridge and !alted >ust outside t!e station, panting out w!ite puffs of steam# (!e s!ep!erd lad !eld on steadily, driving !is goats wit! s!rill *ries up our !ill for t!e etter pasture on t!e western side# 'e sent two /u!eina down e!ind a ridge eyond sig!t of t!e enemy, and t!ey ran from ea*! side and *aug!t !im# (!e lad was of t!e out*ast $eteym, paria!s of t!e desert, w!ose poor *!ildren were *ommonly sent on !ire as s!ep!erds to t!e tri es a out t!em# (!is one *ried *ontinually, and made efforts to es*ape as often as !e saw !is goats straying un*ared-for a out t!e !ill# .n t!e end t!e men lost patien*e and tied !im up roug!ly, w!en !e s*reamed for terror t!at t!ey would &ill !im# :au+an !ad great ado to ma&e !im @uiet, and t!en @uestioned !im a out !is (ur&is! masters# %ut all !is t!oug!ts were for t!e flo*&- !is eyes followed t!em misera ly w!ile t!e tears made edged and *roo&ed tra*&s down !is dirty fa*e# S!ep!erds were a *lass apart# :or t!e ordinary Ara t!e !eart! was a university, a out w!i*! t!eir world passed and w!ere t!ey !eard t!e est tal&, t!e news of t!eir tri e, its poems, !istories, love tales, lawsuits and argainings# %y su*! *onstant s!aring in t!e !eart! *oun*ils t!ey grew up masters of e3pression, diale*ti*ians, orators, a le to sit wit! dignity in any gat!ering and never at a loss for moving words# (!e s!ep!erds missed t!e w!ole of t!is# :rom infan*y t!ey followed t!eir *alling, w!i*! too& t!em in all seasons and weat!ers, day and nig!t, into t!e !ills and *ondemned t!em to loneliness and rute *ompany# .n t!e wilderness, among t!e dry ones of nature, t!ey grew up natural, &nowing not!ing of man and !is affairs) !ardly sane in ordinary tal&) ut very wise in plants, wild animals, and t!e !a its of t!eir own goats and s!eep, w!ose mil& was t!eir *!ief sustenan*e# 'it! man!ood t!ey e*ame sullen, w!ile a few turned dangerously savage, more animal t!an man, !aunting t!e flo*&s, and finding t!e satisfa*tion of t!eir adult appetites in t!em, to t!e e3*lusion of more li*it affe*tions# :or !ours after t!e s!ep!erd !ad een suppressed only t!e sun moved in our view# As it *lim ed we s!ifted our *loa&s to filter its !ars!ness, and as&ed in lu3urious warmt!# (!e restful !ill-top gave me a*& somet!ing of t!e sense-interests w!i*! . !ad lost sin*e . !ad een ill . was a le to note on*e more t!e typi*al !ill s*enery, wit! its !ard stone *rests, its sides of are ro*&, and lower slopes of loose sliding s*reens, pa*&ed, as t!e ase was approa*!ed, solidly wit! a t!in dry soil# (!e stone itself was glistening, yellow, sun urned stuff) metalli* in ring, and rittle) splitting red or green or rown as t!e *ase mig!t e# :rom every soft pla*e sprouted t!orn- us!es) and t!ere was fre@uent grass, usually growing from one root in a do+en stout lades, &nee-!ig! and straw-*oloured- t!e !eads were empty ears etween many-feat!ered arrows of silvery down# 'it! t!ese, and wit! a s!orter grass, w!ose ottle- rus! !eads of pearly grey rea*!ed only to t!e an&le, t!e !ill-sides were furred w!ite and owed t!emselves lowly towards us wit! ea*! puff of t!e *asual wind# <erdure it was not, ut e3*ellent pasturage) and in t!e valleys were igger tufts of grass, *oarse, waist-!ig! and rig!t green w!en fres! t!oug! t!ey soon faded to t!e urned yellow of ordinary Me# (!ey grew t!i*&ly in all t!e eds of water-ri ed sand and s!ingle, etween t!e o**asional t!orn trees, some of w!i*! stood forty feet in !eig!t# (!e sidr trees, wit! t!eir dry, sugary fruit, were rare# %ut us!es of rowned tamaris&, tall room, ot!er varieties of *oarse grass, some flowers, and everyt!ing w!i*! !ad t!orns, flouris!ed a out our *amp, and made it a ri*! sample of t!e vegetation of t!e $e>a+ !ig!lands# 8nly one of t!e plants profited ourselves, and t!at was t!e !emeid- a sorrel wit! fles!y !eart-s!aped leaves, w!ose pleasant a*id ity stayed our t!irst# At dus& we *lim ed down again wit! t!e goat-!erd prisoner, and w!at we *ould gat!er of !is flo*&# 8ur main ody would *ome t!is nig!t) so t!at :au+an and . wandered out a*ross t!e dar&ling plain till

we found a pleasant gun-position in some low ridges not two t!ousand yards from t!e station# 8n our return, very tired, fires were urning among t!e trees# S!a&ir !ad >ust arrived, and !is men and ours were roasting goat-fles! *ontentedly# (!e s!ep!erd was tied up e!ind my sleeping pla*e, e*ause !e !ad gone franti* w!en !is *!arges were unlawfully slaug!tered# $e refused to taste t!e supper) and we only for*ed read and ri*e into !im y t!e t!reat of dire punis!ment if !e insulted our !ospitality# (!ey tried to *onvin*e !im t!at we s!ould ta&e t!e station ne3t day and &ill !is masters) ut !e would not e *omforted, and afterwards, for fear lest !e es*ape, !ad to e las!ed to !is tree again# After supper S!a&ir told me t!at !e !ad roug!t only t!ree !undred men instead of t!e agreed eig!t or nine !undred# $owever, it was !is war, and t!erefore !is tune, so we !astily modified t!e plans# 'e would not ta&e t!e station) we would frig!ten it y a frontal artillery atta*&, w!ile we mined t!e railway to t!e nort! and sout!, in t!e !ope of trapping t!at !alted train# A**ordingly we *!ose a party of Garland-trained dynamiters w!o s!ould low up somet!ing nort! of t!e ridge at dawn, to seal t!at dire*tion) w!ile . went off wit! !ig! e3plosive and a ma*!ine-gun wit! its *rew to lay a mine to t!e sout! of t!e station, t!e pro a le dire*tion from w!i*! t!e (ur&s would see& or send !elp, in t!eir emergen*y# Mo!ammed el ;!adi guided us to a deserted it of line >ust efore midnig!t# . dismounted and fingered its t!rilling rails for t!e first time during t!e war# (!en, in an !our?s usy wor&, we laid t!e mine, w!i*! was a trigger a*tion to fire into twenty pounds of lasting gelatine w!en t!e weig!t of t!e lo*omotive over!ead defle*ted t!e metals# Afterwards we posted t!e ma*!ine-gunners in a little us!s*reened water*ourse, four !undred yards from and fully *ommanding t!e spot w!ere we !oped t!e train would e derailed# (!ey were to !ide t!ere) w!ile we went on to *ut t!e telegrap!, t!at isolation mig!t persuade A a el 0aam to send t!eir train for reinfor*ements, as our main atta*& developed# So we rode anot!er !alf-!our, and t!en turned in to t!e line, and again were fortunate to stri&e an uno**upied pla*e# 9n!appily t!e four remaining /u!eina proved una le to *lim a telegrap! pole, and . !ad to struggle up it myself# .t was all . *ould do, after my illness) and w!en t!e t!ird wire was *ut t!e flimsy pole s!oo& so t!at . lost grip, and *ame slipping down t!e si3teen feet upon t!e stout s!oulders of Mo!ammed, w!o ran in to rea& my fall, and nearly got ro&en !imself# 'e too& a few minutes to reat!e, ut afterwards were a le to regain our *amels# 4ventually we arrived in *amp >ust as t!e ot!ers !ad saddled up to go forward# 8ur mine-laying !ad ta&en four !ours longer t!an we !ad planned and t!e delay put us in t!e dilemma eit!er of getting no rest, or of letting t!e main ody mar*! wit!out us# :inally y S!a&ir?s will we let t!em go, and fell down under our trees for an !our?s sleep, wit!out w!i*! . felt . s!ould *ollapse utterly# (!e time was >ust efore day rea&, an !our w!en t!e uneasiness of t!e air affe*ted trees and animals, and made even men-sleepers turn over sig!ingly# Mo!ammed, w!o wanted to see t!e fig!t, awo&e# (o get me up !e *ame over and *ried t!e morning prayer-*all in my ear, t!e rau*ous voi*e sounding attle, murder, and sudden deat! a*ross my dreams# . sat up and ru ed t!e sand out of redrimmed a*!ing eyes, as we disputed ve!emently of prayer and sleep# $e pleaded t!at t!ere was not a attle every day, and s!owed t!e *uts and ruises sustained during t!e nig!t in !elping me# %y my la*&ness and lueness . *ould feel for !im, and we rode off to *at*! t!e army, after loosing t!e still un!appy s!ep!erd oy, wit! advi*e to wait for our return# A and of trodden untidiness in a sweep of gleaming water-rounded sand s!owed us t!e way, and we arrived >ust as t!e guns opened fire# (!ey did e3*ellently, and *ras!ed in all t!e top of one uilding, damaged t!e se*ond, !it t!e pump-room, and !oled t!e water-tan&# 8ne lu*&y s!ell *aug!t t!e front waggon of t!e train in t!e siding, and it too& fire furiously# (!is alarmed t!e lo*omotive, w!i*! un*oupled and went off sout!ward# 'e wat*!ed !er !ungrily as s!e approa*!ed our mine, and w!en s!e was on it t!ere *ame a soft *loud of dust and a report and s!e stood still# (!e damage was to t!e front part, as s!e was reversed and t!e *!arge !ad e3ploded late) ut, w!ile t!e drivers got out, and >a*&ed up t!e front w!eels and tin&ered at t!em, we waited and waited in vain for t!e ma*!ine-gun to open fire# 2ater we learned t!at t!e gunners, afraid of t!eir loneliness, !ad pa*&ed up and mar*!ed to >oin us w!en we egan s!ooting# $alf an !our after, t!e repaired engine went away towards /e el

Antar, going at a foot pa*e and *lan&ing loudly) ut going none t!e less# 8ur Ara s wor&ed in towards t!e station, under *over of t!e om ardment, w!ile we gnas!ed our teet! at t!e ma*!ine-gunners# Smo&e *louds from t!e fire tru*&s s*reened t!e Ara advan*e w!i*! wiped out one enemy outpost, and *aptured anot!er# (!e (ur&s wit!drew t!eir surviving deta*!ments to t!e main position, and waited rigorously in t!eir tren*!es for t!e assault, w!i*! t!ey were in no etter spirit to repel t!an we were to deliver# 'it! our advantages in ground t!e pla*e would !ave een a gift to us, if only we !ad !ad some of :eisal?s men to *!arge !ome# Meanw!ile t!e wood, tents and tru*&s in t!e station were urning, and t!e smo&e was too t!i*& for us to s!oot, so we ro&e off t!e a*tion# 'e !ad ta&en t!irty prisoners, a mare, two *amels and some more s!eep) and !ad &illed and wounded seventy of t!e garrison, at a *ost to ourselves of one man slig!tly !urt# (raffi* was !eld up for t!ree days of repair and investigation# So we did not w!olly fail#

&()PTE" ...+
'e left two parties in t!e neig! our!ood to damage t!e line on t!e ne3t day and t!e ne3t, w!ile we rode to A dulla!?s *amp on April t!e first# S!a&ir, splendid in !a it, !eld a grand parade on entry, and !ad t!ousands of >oy-s!ots fired in !onour of !is partial vi*tory# (!e easy-going *amp made *arnival# .n t!e evening . went wandering in t!e t!orn-grove e!ind t!e tents, till . egan to see t!roug! t!e t!i*& ran*!es a wild lig!t, from ursts of raw flame) and a*ross t!e flame and smo&e *ame t!e r!yt!m of drums, in tune wit! !and-*lapping, and t!e deep roar of a tri al *!orus# . *rept up @uietly, and saw an immense fire, ringed y !undreds of Atai a sitting on t!e ground one y t!e ot!er, ga+ing intently on S!a&ir, w!o, uprig!t and alone in t!eir midst, performed t!e dan*e of t!eir song# $e !ad put off !is *loa&, and wore only !is w!ite !ead-veil and w!ite ro es- t!e powerful firelig!t was refle*ted y t!ese and y !is pale, ravaged fa*e# As !e sang !e t!rew a*& !is !ead, and at t!e *lose of ea*! p!rase raised !is !ands, to let t!e full sleeves run a*& upon !is s!oulders, w!ile !e waved !is are arms weirdly# (!e tri e around !im eat time wit! t!eir !ands, or ayed out t!e refrains at !is nod# (!e grove of trees w!ere . stood outside t!e *ir*le of lig!t was t!ronged wit! Ara s of stranger tri es, w!ispering, and wat*!ing t!e At an# .n t!e morning we determined on anot!er visit to t!e line, for fuller trial of t!e automati* mine-a*tion w!i*! !ad !alf-failed at A a el 0aam# 8ld Da&!il-Alla! said t!at !e would *ome wit! me !imself on t!is trip) t!e pro>e*t of looting a train !ad tempted !im# 'it! us went some forty of t!e /u!eina, w!o seemed to me stouter men t!an t!e !ig!- red Atei a# $owever, one of t!e *!iefs of t!e Atai a, Sultan el A ud, a oon friend of A dulla and S!a&ir, refused to e left e!ind# (!is good-tempered ut !are- rained fellow, s!ei&! of a poor se*tion of t!e tri e, !ad !ad more !orses &illed under !im in attle t!an any ot!er Atei i warrior# $e was a out twenty-si3 and a great rider) full of @uips and fond of pra*ti*al >o&es, very noisy- tall and strong, wit! a ig, s@uare !ead, wrin&led fore!ead, and deep-set rig!t eyes# A young mousta*!e and eard !id !is rut!less >aw and t!e wide, straig!t mout!, wit! w!ite teet! gleaming and lo*&ed li&e a wolfs# 'e too& a ma*!ine-gun and its soldier-*rew of t!irteen wit! us, to settle our train w!en *aug!t# S!a&ir, wit! !is grave *ourtesy to t!e 4mir?s guest, set us on our road for t!e first !alf-!our# (!is time we &ept to t!e 'adi Ais almost to its >un*tion wit! $amd!, finding it very green and full of gra+ing, sin*e it !ad flooded twi*e already in t!is winter# At last we ore off to t!e rig!t over a dit*! on to a flat, and t!ere slept in t!e sand, rat!er distressed y a s!ower of rain w!i*! sent little rills over t!e ground a out midnig!t- ut t!e ne3t morning was rig!t and !ot, and we rode into t!e !uge plain w!ere t!e t!ree great valleys, (u >a, Ais and /i+il, flowed into and e*ame one wit! $amd!# (!e *ourse of t!e main stream was overgrown y asla wood, >ust as at A u Gerei at, wit! t!e same leprous ed of !ummo*&y sand- listers- ut t!e t!i*&et was only two !undred yards road, and eyond it t!e plain wit! its grained intri*a*y of s!allow torrent- eds stret*!ed for yet furt!er miles# At noon we !alted y a pla*e li&e a wilderness garden, waist deep in >ui*y grass and flowers, upon w!i*! our !appy *amels gorged t!emselves for an !our and t!en sat down, full and astonis!ed#

(!e day seemed to e !otter and !otter- t!e sun drew *lose, and s*or*!ed us wit!out intervening air# (!e *lean, sandy soil was so a&ed t!at my are feet *ould not endure it, and . !ad to wal& in sandals, to t!e amusement of t!e /u!eina, w!ose t!i*& soles were proof even against slow fire# As t!e afternoon passed on t!e lig!t e*ame dim, ut t!e !eat steadily in*reased wit! an oppression and sultriness w!i*! too& me y surprise# . &ept turning my !ead to see if some mass was not >ust e!ind me, s!utting off t!e air# (!ere !ad een long rolls of t!under all morning in t!e !ills, and t!e two pea&s, Serd and /asim, were wrapped in folds of dar& lue and yellow vapour, w!i*! loo&ed motionless and su stantial# At last . saw t!at part of t!e yellow *loud off Serd was *oming slowly against t!e wind in our dire*tion, raising s*ores of dust devils efore its feet# (!e *loud was nearly as !ig! as t!e !ill# '!ile it approa*!ed, two dust-spouts, tig!t and symmetri*al *!imneys, advan*ed, one on t!e rig!t and one on t!e left of its front# Da&!il-Alla! responsi ly loo&ed a!ead and to ea*! side for s!elter, ut saw none# $e warned me t!at t!e storm would e !eavy# '!en it got near, t!e wind, w!i*! !ad een s*or*!ing our fa*es wit! its !ot reat!lessness, *!anged suddenly) and, after waiting a moment, lew itter *old and damp upon our a*&s# .t also in*reased greatly in violen*e, and at t!e same time t!e sun disappeared, lotted out y t!i*& rags of yellow air over our !eads# 'e stood in a !orri le lig!t, o*!reous and fitful# (!e rown wall of *loud from t!e !ills was now very near, rus!ing *!angelessly upon us wit! a loud grinding sound# (!ree minutes later it stru*&, wrapping a out us a lan&et of dust and stinging grains of sand, twisting and turning in violent eddies, and yet advan*ing eastward at t!e speed of a strong gale# 'e !ad put our *amels? a*&s to t!e storm, to mar*! efore it- ut t!ese internal w!irling winds tore our tig!tly-!eld *loa&s from our !ands, filled our eyes, and ro ed us of all sense of dire*tion y turning our *amels rig!t or left from t!eir *ourse# Sometimes t!ey were lown *ompletely roundon*e we *las!ed !elplessly toget!er in a vorte3, w!ile large us!es, tufts of grass, and even a small tree were torn up y t!e roots in dense waves of t!e soil a out t!em, and driven against us, or lown over our !eads wit! dangerous for*e# 'e were never linded--it was always possi le to see for seven or eig!t feet to ea*! side-- ut it was ris&y to loo& out, as, in addition to t!e *ertain sand- last, we never &new if we s!ould not meet a flying tree, a rus! of pe les, or a spout of grass-laden dust# (!is storm lasted for eig!teen minutes, and t!en leaped forward from us as suddenly as it !ad *ome# 8ur party was s*attered over a s@uare mile or more, and efore we *ould rally, w!ile we, our *lot!es and our *amels were yet smot!ered in dust, yellow and !eavy wit! it from !ead to foot, down urst torrents of t!i*& rain and muddied us to t!e s&in# (!e valley egan to run in plas!es of water, and Da&!il-Alla! urged us a*ross it @ui*&ly# (!e wind *!opped on*e more, t!is time to t!e nort!, and t!e rain *ame driving efore it in !ars! s!eets of spray# .t eat t!roug! our woollen *loa&s in a moment, and moulded t!em and our s!irts to our odies, and *!illed us to t!e one# 'e rea*!ed t!e !ill- arrier in mid-afternoon, ut found t!e valley are and s!elterless, *older t!an ever# After riding up it for t!ree or four miles we !alted, and *lim ed a great *rag to see t!e railway w!i*!, t!ey said, lay >ust eyond# 8n t!e !eig!t t!e wind was so terri le t!at we *ould not *ling to t!e wet slippery ro*&s against t!e slapping and ellying of our *loa&s and s&irts# . too& mine off, and *lim ed t!e rest of t!e way !alf-na&ed, more easily, and !ardly *older t!an efore# %ut t!e effort proved useless, t!e air eing too t!i*& for o servation# So . wor&ed down, *ut and ruised, to t!e ot!ers) and dressed num ly# 8n our way a*& we suffered t!e only *asualty of t!is trip# Sultan !ad insisted on *oming wit! us, and !is Atei i servant, w!o must follow !im t!oug! !e !ad no !ead for !eig!ts, slipped in one ad pla*e wit! a fall of forty feet to t!e stones, and plunged down !eadlong# '!en we got a*& my !ands and feet were too ro&en to serve me longer, and . lay down and s!ivered for an !our or so w!ile t!e ot!ers uried t!e dead man in a side valley# 8n t!eir return t!ey met suddenly an un&nown rider on a *amel, *rossing t!eir tra*&# $e fired at t!em# (!ey fired a*&, snap-s!ooting t!roug! t!e rain, and t!e evening swallowed !im# (!is was dis@uieting, for surprise was our main ally, and we *ould only !ope t!at !e would not return to warn t!e (ur&s t!at t!ere were

raiders in t!e neig! our!ood# After t!e !eavy *amels wit! t!e e3plosives *aug!t us, we mounted again to get *loser to t!e line) ut we !ad no more t!an started w!en ra+enly down t!e visi le wind in t!e misted valley *ame t!e food*all of (ur&is! ugles# Da&!il-Alla! t!rust !is ear forward in t!e dire*tion of t!e sound, and understood t!at over t!ere lay Mada!ri>, t!e small station elow w!i*! we meant to operate# So we steered on t!e !ateful noise, !ateful e*ause it spo&e of supper and of tents, w!ereas we were s!elterless, and on su*! a nig!t *ould not !ope to ma&e ourselves a fire and a&e read from t!e flour and water in our saddle- ags, and *onse@uently must go !ungry# 'e did not rea*! t!e railway till after ten o?*lo*& at nig!t, in *onditions of invisi ility w!i*! made it futile to *!oose a ma*!ine-gun position# At random . pit*!ed upon &ilometre 1,121 from Damas*us for t!e mine# .t was a *ompli*ated mine, wit! a *entral trigger to fire simultaneous *!arges t!irty yards apart- and we !oped in t!is way to get t!e lo*omotive w!et!er it was going nort! or sout!# %urying t!e mine too& four !ours, for t!e rain !ad *a&ed t!e surfa*e and rotted it# 8ur feet made !uge tra*&s on t!e flat and on t!e an&, as t!oug! a s*!ool of elep!ants !ad een dan*ing t!ere# (o !ide t!ese mar&s was out of t!e @uestion, so we did t!e ot!er t!ing, trampling a out for !undreds of yards, even ringing up our *amels to !elp, until it loo&ed as t!oug! !alf an army !ad *rossed t!e valley , and t!e mine-pla*e was no etter and no worse t!an t!e rest# (!en we went a*& a safe distan*e, e!ind some misera le mounds, and *owered down in t!e open, waiting for day# (!e *old was intense# 8ur teet! *!attered, and we trem led and !issed involuntarily, w!ile our !ands drew in li&e *laws# At dawn t!e *louds !ad disappeared, and a red sun promised, over t!e very fine ro&en !ills eyond t!e railway# 8ld Da&!il-Alla!, our a*tive guide and leader in t!e nig!t, now too& general *!arge, and sent us out singly and in pairs to all t!e approa*!es of our !iding-pla*e# $e !imself *rawled up t!e ridge efore us to wat*! events upon t!e railway t!roug! !is glasses# . was praying t!at t!ere mig!t e no events till t!e sun !ad gained power and warmed me, for t!e s!ivering fit still >er&ed me a out# $owever, soon t!e sun was up and unveiled, and t!ings improved# My *lot!es were drying# %y noon it was nearly as !ot as t!e day efore, and we were gasping for s!ade, and t!i*&er *lot!es, against t!e sun# :irst of all, t!oug!, at si3 in t!e morning, Da&!il-Alla! reported a trolley, w!i*! *ame from t!e sout!, and passed over t!e mine !armlessly--to our satisfa*tion, for we !ad not laid a eautiful *ompound *!arge for >ust four men and a sergeant# (!en si3ty men sallied out from Mada!ri># (!is distur ed us till we saw t!at t!ey were to repla*e five telegrap! poles lown down y t!e storm of t!e afternoon efore# (!en at seven-t!irty a patrol of eleven men went down t!e line- two inspe*ting ea*! rail minutely, t!ree mar*!ing ea*! side of t!e an& loo&ing for *ross-tra*&s, and one, presuma ly t!e 0#C#8#, wal&ing grandly along t!e metals wit! not!ing to do# $owever, to-day, t!ey did find somet!ing, w!en t!ey *rossed our footprints a out &ilometre 1,121# (!ey *on*entrated t!ere upon t!e permanent way, stared at it, stamped, wandered up and down, s*rat*!ed t!e allast) and t!oug!t e3!austively# (!e time of t!eir sear*! passed slowly for us- ut t!e mine was well !idden, so t!at eventually t!ey wandered on *ontentedly towards t!e sout!, w!ere t!ey met t!e $edia patrol, and ot! parties sat toget!er in t!e *ool s!ade of a ridge-ar*!, and rested after t!eir la ours# Meanw!ile t!e train, a !eavy train, *ame along from t!e sout!# 0ine of its laden tru*&s !eld women and *!ildren from Medina, *ivil refugees eing deported to Syria, wit! t!eir !ouse!old stuff# .t ran over t!e *!arges wit!out e3plosion# As artist . was furious) as *ommander deeply relievedwomen and *!ildren were not proper spoil# (!e /u!eina ra*ed to t!e *rest w!ere Da&!il-Alla! and myself lay !idden, w!en t!ey !eard t!e train *oming, to see it lown in pie*es# 8ur stone !eadwor& !ad een uilt for two, so t!at t!e !illtop, a ald *one *onspi*uously opposite t!e wor&ing party, e*ame suddenly and visi ly populous# (!is was too mu*! for t!e nerves of t!e (ur&s, w!o fled a*& into Mada!ri>, and t!en*e, at a out five t!ousand yards, opened a ris& rifle fire# (!ey must also !ave telep!oned to $edia, w!i*! soon *ame to Me- ut sin*e t!e nearest outpost on t!at side was a out si3 miles off, its garrisons !eld t!eir fire, and *ontented t!emselves wit! sele*tions on t!e ugle, played all day# (!e distan*e made it grave and

eautiful# 4ven t!e rifle s!ooting did us no !arm) ut t!e dis*losure of ourselves was unfortunate# At Mada!ri> were two !undred men, and at $edia eleven !undred, and our retreat was y t!e plain of $amd! on w!i*! $edia stood# (!eir mounted troops mig!t sally out and *ut our rear# (!e /u!eina !ad good *amels, and so were safe) ut t!e ma*!ine-gun was a *aptured German sledge-Ma3im- a !eavy load for its tiny mule# (!e servers were on foot, or on ot!er mules- t!eir top speed would e only si3 miles an !our, and t!eir fig!ting value, wit! a single gun, not !ig!# So after a *oun*il of war we rode a*& wit! t!em !alf-way t!roug! t!e !ills, and t!ere dismissed t!em, wit! fifteen /u!eina, towards 'adi Ais# (!is made us mo ile, and Da&!il-Alla!, Sultan, Mo!ammed and . rode a*& wit! t!e rest of our party for anot!er loo& at t!e line# (!e sunlig!t was now terrifi*, wit! faint gusts of s*or*!ing !eat lowing up at us out of t!e sout!# 'e too& refuge a out ten o?*lo*& under some spa*ious trees, w!ere we a&ed read and lun*!ed, in ni*e view of t!e line, and s!aded from t!e worst of t!e sun# A out us, over t!e gravel, *ir*les of pale s!adow from t!e *risping leaves ran to and fro, li&e grey, indeterminate ugs, as t!e slender ran*!es dipped relu*tantly in t!e wind# 8ur pi*ni* annoyed t!e (ur&s, w!o s!ot or trumpeted at us in*essantly t!roug! t!e middle day and till evening, w!ile we slept in turn# A out five t!ey grew @uiet, and we mounted and rode slowly a*ross t!e open valley towards t!e railway# Mada!ri> revived in a paro3ysm of fire, and all t!e trumpets of $edia lared again# (!e mon&ey-pleasure of pulling large and impressive legs was upon us# So w!en we rea*!ed t!e line we made our *amels &neel down eside it, and, led y Da&!il-Alla! as .mam, performed a sunset prayer @uietly etween t!e rails# .t was pro a ly t!e first prayer of t!e /u!eina for a year or so, and . was a novi*e, ut from a distan*e we passed muster, and t!e (ur&s stopped s!ooting in ewilderment (!is was t!e first and last time . ever prayed in Ara ia as a Moslem# After t!e prayer it was still mu*! too lig!t to !ide our a*tions- so we sat round on t!e em an&ment smo&ing, till dus&, w!en . tried to go off y myself and dig up t!e mine, to learn, for servi*e on t!e ne3t o**asion, w!y it !ad failed# $owever, t!e /u!eina were as interested in t!at as .# Along t!ey *ame in a swarm and *lustered over t!e metals during t!e sear*!# (!ey roug!t my !eart into my t!roat, for it too& me an !our to find >ust w!ere t!e mine was !idden# 2aying a Garland mine was s!a&y wor&, ut s*ra ling in pit*! dar&ness up and down a !undred yards of railway, feeling for a !air-trigger uried in t!e allast, seemed, at t!e time, an almost uninsura le o**upation# (!e two *!arges *onne*ted wit! it were so powerful t!at t!ey would !ave rooted out seventy yards of tra*&) and . saw visions of suddenly lowing up, not only myself, ut my w!ole for*e, every moment# (o e sure, su*! a feat would !ave properly *ompleted t!e ewil derment of t!e (ur&sA At last . found it, and as*ertained y tou*! t!at t!e lo*& !ad sun& one-si3teent! of an in*!, due to ad setting y myself or e*ause t!e ground !ad su sided after t!e rain# . firmed it into its pla*e# (!en, to e3plain ourselves plausi ly to t!e enemy, we egan lowing up t!ings to t!e nort! of t!e mine# 'e found a little four-ar*! ridge and put it into t!e air# Afterwards we turned to rails and *ut a out two !undred- and w!ile t!e men were laying and lig!ting *!arges . taug!t Mo!ammed to *lim a splintery pole) toget!er we *ut t!e wires, and wit! t!eir pur*!ase dragged down ot!er poles# All was done at speed, for we feared lest (ur&s *ome after us- and w!en our e3plosive wor& was finis!ed we ran a*& li&e !ares to our *amels, mounted t!em, and trotted wit!out interruption down t!e windy valley on*e more to t!e plain of $amd!# (!ere we were in safety, ut old Da&!il-Alla! was too pleased wit! t!e mess we !ad made of t!e line to go so erly# '!en we were on t!e sandy flat !e eat up !is *amel into a *anter, and we pounded madly after !im t!roug! t!e *olourless moonlig!t# (!e going was perfe*t, and we never drew rein for t!ree !ours, till we over-rode our ma*!ine-gun and its es*ort *amping on t!e road !ome# (!e soldiers !eard our rout yelling t!roug! t!e nig!t, t!oug!t us enemies of sorts, and let fly at us wit! t!eir Ma3im- ut it >ammed after !alf a elt, and t!ey, eing tailors from Me**a, were un!andy wit! it# So no one was !urt, and we *aptured t!em mirt!fully#

.n t!e morning we slept la+ily long, and rea&fasted at "u iaan, t!e first well in 'adi Ais# Afterwards we were smo&ing and tal&ing, a out to ring in t!e *amels, w!en suddenly we felt t!e distant s!o*& of a great e3plosion e!ind us on t!e railway# 'e wondered if t!e mine !ad een dis*overed or !ad done its duty# (wo s*outs !ad een left to report, and we rode slowly) for t!em, and e*ause t!e rain two days ago !ad roug!t down 'adi Ais on*e more in flood, and its ed was all fle*&ed over wit! s!allow pools of soft, grey water, etween an&s of silvery mud, w!i*! t!e *urrent !ad rippled into fis!-s*ales# (!e warmt! of t!e sun made t!e surfa*e li&e fine glue, on w!i*! our !elpless *amels sprawled *omi*ally, or went down wit! a for*e and *ompleteness surprising in su*! dignified easts# (!eir tempers were roug!ened ea*! time y our fit of mirt!# (!e sunlig!t, t!e easy mar*! and t!e e3pe*tation of t!e s*outs? news made everyt!ing gay, and we developed so*ial virtues- ut our lim s, stiff from t!e e3ertions of yesterday, and our a undant food, determined us to fall s!ort of A u Mar&!a for t!e nig!t# So, near sunset, we *!ose a dry terra*e in t!e valley to sleep upon# . rode up it first and turned and loo&ed at t!e men reined in elow me in a group, upon t!eir ay *amels li&e *opper statues in t!e fier*e lig!t of t!e setting sun) t!ey seemed to e urning wit! an inward flame# %efore read was a&ed t!e s*outs arrived, to tell us t!at at dawn t!e (ur&s !ad een usy round our damages) and a little later a lo*omotive wit! tru*&s of rails, and a *rowded la our gang on top, !ad *ome up from $edia, and !ad e3ploded t!e mine fore and aft of its w!eels# (!is was everyt!ing we !ad !oped, and we rode a*& to A dulla!?s *amp on a morning of perfe*t springtime, in a singing *ompany# 'e !ad proved t!at a well-laid mine would fire) and t!at a well-laid mine was diffi*ult even for its ma&er to dis*over# (!ese points were of importan*e) for 0ew*om e, Garland and $orn y were now out upon t!e railway, !arrying it- and mines were t!e est weapon yet dis*overed to ma&e t!e regular wor&ing of t!eir trains *ostly and un*ertain for our (ur&is! enemy#

&()PTE" ...+I
Despite !is &indness and *!arm, . *ould not li&e A dulla! or !is *amp- per!aps e*ause . was not so*ia le, and t!ese people !ad no personal solitude- per!aps e*ause t!eir good !umour s!owed me t!e futility of my more t!an ,alomides? pains, not merely to seem etter t!an myself, ut to ma&e ot!ers etter# '!ereas not!ing was futile in t!e atmosp!ere of !ig!er t!in&ing and responsi ility w!i*! ruled at :eisal?s# A dulla passed !is merry day in t!e ig *ool tent a**essi le only to friends, limiting suppliants or new ad!erents or t!e !earing of disputes to one pu li* session in t!e afternoon# :or t!e rest !e read t!e papers, ate *arefully, slept# 4spe*ially !e played games, eit!er *!ess wit! !is staff or pra*ti*al >o&es wit! Mo!ammed $assan# Mo!ammed, nominally Mued!d!in, was really *ourt fool# A tiresome old fool . found !im, as my illness left me less even t!an usual in >es ting mood# A dulla! and !is friends, S!a&ir, :au+an, and t!e two sons of $am+a among t!e S!erifs, wit! Sultan el A ud and $os!an, from t!e Atei a, and i n Mesfer, t!e guest-master, would spend mu*! of t!e day and all t!e evening !ours tormenting Mo!ammed $assan# (!ey sta ed !im wit! t!orns, stoned !im, dropped sun-!eated pe les down !is a*&, set !im on fire# Sometimes t!e >est would e ela orate, as w!en t!ey laid a powder trail under t!e rugs, and lured Mo!ammed $assan to sit on its end# 8n*e A dulla! s!ot a *offee-pot off !is !ead t!ri*e from twenty yards, and t!en rewarded !is long-suffering servility wit! t!ree mont!s? pay# A dulla! would sometimes ride a little, or s!oot a little, and return e3!austed to !is tent for massage) and afterwards re*iters would e introdu*ed to soot!e !is a*!ing !ead# $e was fond of Ara i* verses and e3*eptionally well read# (!e lo*al poets found !im a profita le audien*e# $e was also interested in !istory and letters, and would !ave grammati*al disputations in !is tent and ad>udge money pri+es# $e affe*ted to !ave no *are for t!e $e>a+ situation, regarding t!e autonomy of t!e Ara s as assured y t!e promises of Great %ritain to !is fat!er, and leaning at ease against t!is prop# . longed to tell !im t!at t!e !alf-witted old man !ad o tained from us no *on*rete or un@ualified underta&ing of any sort, and t!at t!eir s!ip mig!t founder on t!e ar of !is politi*al stupidity) ut t!at would !ave een to give

away my 4nglis! masters, and t!e mental tug of war etween !onesty and loyalty, after swaying a w!ile, settled again e3pediently into deadlo*&# A dulla professed great interest in t!e war in 4urope, and studied it *losely in t!e ,ress# $e was also a*@uainted wit! 'estern politi*s, and !ad learned y rote t!e *ourts and ministries of 4urope, even to t!e name of t!e Swiss ,resident# . remar&ed again !ow mu*! t!e *omforta le *ir*umstan*e t!at we still !ad a ;ing made for t!e reputation of 4ngland in t!is world of Asia# An*ient and artifi*ial so*ieties li&e t!is of t!e S!erifs and feudal *!ieftains of Ara ia found a sense of !onoura le se*urity w!en dealing wit! us in su*! proof t!at t!e !ig!est pla*e in our state was not a pri+e for merit or am ition# (ime slowly depressed my first, favoura le, opinion of A dulla?s *!ara*ter# $is *onstant ailments, w!i*! on*e aroused *ompassion, e*ame fitter for *ontempt w!en t!eir *auses were apparent in la+iness and self-indulgen*e, and w!en !e was seen to *!eris! t!em as o**upations of !is too-great leisure# $is *asual attra*tive fits of ar itrariness now seemed fee le tyranny disguised as w!ims) !is friendliness e*ame *apri*e) !is good !umour love of pleasure# (!e leaven of insin*erity wor&ed t!roug! all t!e fi res of !is eing# 4ven !is simpli*ity appeared false upon e3perien*e) and in!erited religious pre>udi*e was allowed rule over t!e &eenness of !is mind e*ause it was less trou le to !im t!an un*!arted t!oug!t# $is rain often etrayed its intri*ate pattern, dis*losing idea twisted tig!tly over idea into a strong *ord of design) and t!us !is indolen*e marred !is s*!eming, too# (!e we s were *onstantly unravelling t!roug! !is *arelessness in leaving t!em unfinis!ed# 1et t!ey never separated into straig!t desires, or grew into effe*tive desires# Always !e wat*!ed out of t!e *orner of !is land and open eye our returns to !is inno*ent-sounding @uestions, reading an inse*t-su tlety of signifi*ant meaning into every !esitation or un*ertainty or !onest mista&e# 8ne day . entered to find !im sitting uprig!t and wide-eyed wit! a spot of red in eit!er *!ee&# Sergeant :rost, !is old tutor, !ad >ust *ome from Colonel %remond, inno*ent earer of a letter w!i*! pointed out !ow t!e %ritis! were wrapping up t!e Ara s on all sides--at Aden, at Ga+a, at %agdad-and !oped t!at A dulla reali+ed !is situation# $e as&ed !otly w!at . t!oug!t of it# .n answer, . fell a*& on artifi*e, and replied in a pretty p!rase t!at . !oped !e would suspe*t our !onesty w!en !e found us a*& iting our allies in private letters# (!e deli*ately poisoned Ara i* pleased !im, and !e paid us t!e edged *ompliment of saying t!at !e &new we were sin*ere, sin*e ot!erwise we would not e represented at /edda! y Colonel 'ilson# (!ere, *!ara*teristi*ally, !is su tlety !anged itself, not per*eiving t!e dou le su tlety w!i*! negatived !im# $e did not understand t!at !onesty mig!t e t!e est-paying *at?s paw of rogues, and 'ilson, too, downrig!t readily or @ui*&ly to suspe*t evil in t!e dignitaries a ove !im# 'ilson never told even a !alf-trut!# .f instru*ted to inform t!e ;ing diplomati*ally t!at t!e su sidy of t!e mont! *ould not at present e in*reased, !e would ring up Me**a and say, ?2ord, 2ord, t!ere is no more money?# As for lying, !e was not merely in*apa le of it, ut also s!rewd enoug! to &now t!at it was t!e worst gam it against players w!ose w!ole life !ad passed in a mist of de*eits, and w!ose per*eptions were of t!e finest# (!e Ara leaders s!owed a *ompleteness of instin*t, a relian*e upon intuition, t!e unper*eived fore&nown, w!i*! left our *entrifugal minds gasping# 2i&e women, t!ey understood and >udged @ui*&ly, effortlessly, unreasona ly# .t almost seemed as t!oug! t!e 8riental e3*lusion of woman from politi*s !ad *onferred !er parti*ular gifts upon t!e men# Some of t!e speed and se*re*y of our vi*tory, and its regularity, mig!t per!aps e as*ri ed to t!is dou le endowment?s offsetting and emp!asi+ing t!e rare feature t!at from end to end of it t!ere was not!ing female in t!e Ara movement, ut t!e *amels# (!e outstanding figure of A dulla?s entourage was S!erif S!a&ir, a man of twenty-nine, and *ompanion sin*e oy!ood of t!e four 4mirs# $is mot!er was Cir*assian, as !ad een !is grandmot!er # :rom t!em !e o tained !is fair *omple3ion) ut t!e fles! of !is fa*e was torn away y smallpo3# :rom its w!ite ruin two restless eyes loo&ed out, very rig!t and ig) for t!e faintness of !is eyelas!es and eye rows made !is stare dire*tly dis*on*erting# $is figure was tall, slim, almost oyis! from t!e *ontinual at!leti* a*tivity of t!e man# $is s!arp, de*ided, ut pleasant voi*e frayed out if !e s!outed#

$is manner w!ile delig!tfully fran&, was a rupt, indeed imperious) wit! a !umour as *ra*&ed as !is *a*&ling laug!# (!is ursting freedom of spee*! seemed to respe*t not!ing on eart! e3*ept ;ing $ussein- towards !imself !e e3a*ted deferen*e, more so t!an did A dulla, w!o was always playing tri*&s wit! !is *ompanions, t!e evy of sil&-*lad fellows w!o *ame a out !im w!en !e would e easy# S!a&ir >oined wildly in t!e sport, ut would smartingly punis! a li erty# $e dressed simply, ut very *leanly, and, li&e A dulla, spent pu li* !ours wit! toot!pi*& and toot!sti*&# $e too& no interest in oo&s and never wearied !is !ead wit! meditation, ut was intelligent and interesting in tal&# $e was devout, ut !ated Me**a, and played a*&gammon w!ile A dulla read t!e ;oran# 1et y fits !e would pray intermina ly# .n war !e was t!e man at arms# $is feats made !im t!e darling of t!e tri es# $e, in return, des*ri ed !imself as a %edawi, and an Atei i, and imitated t!em# $e wore !is la*& !air in plaits down ea*! side of !is fa*e, and &ept it glossy wit! utter, and strong y fre@uent was!ings in *amel urine# $e en*ouraged nits, in deferen*e to t!e %eduin prover t!at a deserted !ead s!owed an ungenerous mindand wore t!e brim, a plaited girdle of t!in leat!ern t!ongs wrapped t!ree or four times round t!e loins to *onfine and support t!e elly# $e owned splendid !orses and *amels- was *onsidered t!e finest rider in Ara ia- ready for a mat*! wit! anyone# S!a&ir gave me t!e sense t!at !e preferred a fit of energy to sustained effort- ut t!ere was alan*e and s!rewdness e!ind !is mad manner# S!erif $ussein !ad used !im on em assies to Cairo efore t!e war, to arrange private usiness wit! t!e ;!edive of 4gypt# (!e %eduin figure must !ave loo&ed strange in t!e stu**o splendour of t!e A din# A dulla !ad unlimited admiration for S!a&ir and tried to see t!e world wit! !is eyes of gay *arelessness# %etween t!em t!ey seriously *ompli*ated my mission to 'adi Ais#

&()PTE" ...+II
8f t!e ta*ti*al situation, A dulla made very little, pretending pettis!ly t!at it was :eisal?s usiness# $e !ad *ome to 'adi Ais to please !is younger rot!er, and t!ere !e would stay# $e would not go on raids !imself, and !ardly en*ouraged t!ose w!o did# . dete*ted >ealousy of :eisal in t!is, as if !e wis!ed ostentatiously to negle*t military operations to prevent un e*oming *omparison wit! !is rot!er?s performan*e# $ad S!a&ir not !elped me in t!e first instan*e, . mig!t !ave !ad delay and diffi*ulty in getting started, t!oug! A dulla would !ave *eded in time and gra*iously permitted anyt!ing not *alling dire*tly upon !is own energies# $owever, t!ere were now two parties on t!e railway, wit! reliefs enoug! to do a demolition of some sort every day or so# Mu*! less interferen*e t!an t!is would suffi*e to wre*& t!e wor&ing of trains, and y ma&ing t!e maintenan*e of t!e (ur&is! garrison at Medina >ust a s!ade less diffi*ult t!an its eva*uation would serve t!e interests of %ritis! and Ara ali&e# So . >udged my wor& in 'adi Ais suffi*iently done, and well done# . longed to get nort! again @uit of t!is rela3ing *amp# A dulla mig!t let me do all . wanted, ut would do not!ing of !is own- w!ereas for me t!e est value of t!e revolt lay in t!e t!ings w!i*! t!e Ara s attempted wit!out our aid# :eisal was t!e wor&ing ent!usiast wit! t!e one idea of ma&ing !is an*ient ra*e >ustify its renown y winning freedom wit! its own !ands# $is lieutenants 0asir or S!arraf or Ali i n el $ussein se*onded !is plans wit! !ead and !eart, so t!at my part e*ame only synt!eti*# . *om ined t!eir loose s!owers of spar&s into a firm flame- transformed t!eir series of unrelated in*idents into a *ons*ious operation# 'e left on t!e morning of April t!e tent!, after pleasant farewells from A dulla# My t!ree Ageyl were again wit! me) and Arslan, t!e little Syrian ,un*!-figure, very *ons*ious of Ara dress, and of t!e droll outloo& and manners of all %edouins# $e rode disgra*efully and endured sorrow t!e w!ole way at t!e uneasy steps of !is *amels- ut !e salved !is self-respe*t y pointing out t!at in Damas*us no de*ent man would ride a *amel, and !is !umour y s!owing t!at in Ara ia no one ut a Damas*ene would ride so ad a *amel as !is# Mo!ammed el ;ad!i was our guide, wit! si3 /u!eina#

'e mar*!ed up 'adi (lei! as we !ad *ome, ut ran*!ed off to t!e rig!t, avoiding t!e lava# 'e !ad roug!t no food, so stopped at some tents for !ospitality of t!eir ri*e and millet# (!is springtime in t!e !ills was t!e time of plenty for t!e Ara s, w!ose tents were full of s!eep-mil& and goat-mil& and *amel-mil&, wit! everyone well fed and well loo&ing# Afterwards we rode, in weat!er li&e a summer?s day in 4ngland, for five !ours down a narrow, flood-swept valley, 'adi 8sman, w!i*! turned and twisted in t!e !ills !ut gave an easy road# (!e last part of t!e mar*! was after dar&, and w!en we stopped, Arslan was missing# 'e fired volleys and lit fires !oping !e would *ome upon us) ut till dawn t!ere was no sign, and t!e /u!eina ran a*& and forward in dou ting sear*!# $owever, !e was only a mile e!ind, fast asleep under a tree# A s!ort !our later we stopped at t!e tents of a wife of Da&!il-Alla!, for a meal# Mo!ammed allowed !imself a at!, a fres! raiding of !is lu3uriant !air, and *lean *lot!es# (!ey too& very long a out t!e food, and it was not till near noon t!at at last it *ame- a great owl of saffron-ri*e, wit! a ro&en lam littered over it# Mo!ammed, w!o felt it !is duty in my !onour to e dainty in servi*e, arrested t!e main dis!, and too& from it t!e fill of a small *opper asin for !im and me# (!en !e waved t!e rest of t!e *amp on to t!e large supply# Mo!ammed?s mot!er &new !erself old enoug! to e *urious a out me# S!e @uestioned me a out t!e women of t!e tri e of C!ristians and t!eir way of life, marvelling at my w!ite s&in, and t!e !orri le lue eyes w!i*! loo&ed, s!e said, li&e t!e s&y s!ining t!roug! t!e eyeso*&ets of an empty s&ull# 'adi 8sman to-day was less irregular in *ourse, and roadened slowly# After two !ours and a !alf it twisted suddenly to t!e rig!t t!roug! a gap, and we found ourselves in $amd!, in a narrow, *liffwalled gorge# As usual, t!e edges of t!e ed of !ard sand were are) and t!e middle ristled wit! !amdla-asla trees, in grey, salty, ulging s*a s# %efore us were flood-pools of sweet water, t!e largest of t!em nearly t!ree !undred feet long, and s!arply deep# .ts narrow ed was *ut into t!e lig!t impervious *lay# Mo!ammed said its water would remain till t!e year?s end, ut would soon turn salt and useless# After drin&s we at!ed in it, and found it full of little silver fis! li&e sardines- all ravenous# 'e loitered after at!ing, prolonging our odily pleasure) and remounting in t!e dar&, rode for si3 miles, till sleepy# (!en we turned away to !ig!er ground for t!e nig!t?s *amp# 'adi $amd! differed from t!e ot!er wild valleys of $e>a+, in its *!ill air# (!is was, of *ourse, most o vious at nig!t, w!en a w!ite mist, gla+ing t!e valley wit! a salt sweat, lifted itself some feet up and stood over it motionless# %ut even y day, and in suns!ine t!e $amd! felt damp and raw and unnatural# 0e3t morning we started early and passed large pools in t!e valley) ut only a few were fit to drin&t!e rest !ad gone green and ra*&is! wit! t!e little w!ite fis! floating, dead and pi*&led, in t!em# Afterwards we *rossed t!e ed, and stru*& nort!ward over t!e plain of 9gila, w!ere "oss, our flig!t *ommander from 'e>!, !ad lately made an aerodrome# Ara guards were sitting y !is petrol, and we rea&fasted from t!em, and afterwards went along 'adi Met!ar to a s!ady tree, w!ere we slept four !ours# .n t!e afternoon everyone was fres!, and t!e /u!eina egan to mat*! t!eir *amels against one anot!er# At first it was two and two, ut t!e ot!ers >oined, till t!ey were si3 a reast# (!e road was ad, and finally, one lad *antered !is animal into a !eap of stones# S!e slipped, so t!at !e *ras!ed off and ro&e an arm# .t was a misfortune- ut Mo!ammed *oolly tied !im up wit! rags and *amel-girt!s, and left !im at ease under a tree to rest a little efore riding a*& to 9gila for t!e nig!t# (!e Ara s were *asual a out ro&en ones# .n a tent at 'adi Ais . !ad seen a yout! w!ose forearm !ad set *roo&edly) reali+ing t!is, !e !ad dug into !imself wit! a dagger till !e !ad ared t!e one, re- ro&en it, and set it straig!t) and t!ere !e lay, p!ilosop!i*ally enduring t!e flies, wit! !is left forearm !uge under !ealing mosses and *lay, waiting for it to e well# .n t!e morning we pus!ed on to ;!aut!ila, a well, w!ere we watered t!e *amels# (!e water was impure and purged t!em# 'e rode again in t!e evening for anot!er eig!t miles, intending to ra*e straig!t t!roug! to 'e>! in a long last day# So we got up soon after midnig!t, and efore daylig!t were *oming down t!e long slope from "aal into t!e plain, w!i*! e3tended a*ross t!e mout!s of

$amd! into t!e sea# (!e ground was s*arred wit! motor tra*&s, e3*iting a lively am ition in t!e /u!eina to !urry on and see t!e new wonders of :eisal?s army# :ired y t!is, we did a straig!t mar*! of eig!t !ours, unusually long for t!ese $e>a+ %edouin# 'e were t!en reasona ly tired, ot! men and *amels, sin*e we !ad !ad no food after rea&fast t!e day efore# (!erefore it seemed fit to t!e oy Mo!ammed to run ra*es# $e >umped from !is *amel, too& off !is *lot!es, and *!allenged us to ra*e to t!e *lump of t!orns up t!e slope in front, for a pound 4nglis!# 4very ody too& t!e offer, and t!e *amels set off in a mo # (!e distan*e, a out t!ree-@uarters of a mile, up!ill, over !eavy sand, proved pro a ly more t!an Mo!ammed !ad argained for# $owever, !e s!owed surprising strengt! and won, t!oug! y in*!es- t!en !e promptly *ollapsed, leeding from mout! and nose# Some of our *amels were good, and t!ey went t!eir fastest w!en pitted against one anot!er# (!e air !ere was very !ot and !eavy for natives of t!e !ills, and . feared t!ere mig!t e *onse@uen*es of Mo!ammed?s e3!austion- ut after we !ad rested an !our and made !im a *up of *offee !e got going again and did t!e si3 remaining !ours into 'e>! as *!eerfully as ever) *ontinuing to play t!e little pran&s w!i*! !ad rig!tened our long mar*! from A u Mar&!a# .f one man rode @uietly e!ind anot!er?s *amel, po&ed !is sti*& suddenly up its rump, and s*ree*!ed, it mistoo& !im for an e3*ited male, and plunged off at a mad gallop, very dis*on*erting to t!e rider# A se*ond good game was to *annon one galloping *amel wit! anot!er, and *ras! it into a near tree# 4it!er t!e tree went down Bvalley trees in t!e lig!t $e>a+ soil were nota ly unsta le t!ingsC or t!e rider was s*rat*!ed and torn) or, est of all, !e was swept @uite out of !is saddle, and left impaled on a t!orny ran*!, if not dropped violently to t!e ground# (!is *ounted as a ull, and was very popular wit! everyone ut !im# (!e %edu were odd people# :or an 4nglis!man, so>ourning wit! t!em was unsatisfa*tory unless !e !ad patien*e wide and deep as t!e sea# (!ey were a solute slaves of t!eir appetite, wit! no stamina of mind, drun&ards for *offee, mil& or water, gluttons for stewed meat, s!ameless eggars of to a**o# (!ey dreamed for wee&s efore and after t!eir rare se3ual e3er*ises, and spent t!e intervening days titillating t!emselves and t!eir !earers wit! awdy tales# $ad t!e *ir*umstan*es of t!eir lives given t!em opportunity t!ey would !ave een s!eer sensualists# (!eir strengt! was t!e strengt! of men geograp!i*ally eyond temptation- t!e poverty of Ara ia made t!em simple, *ontinent, enduring# .f for*ed into *ivili+ed life t!ey would !ave su**um ed li&e any savage ra*e to its diseases, meanness, lu3ury, *ruelty, *roo&ed dealing, artifi*e) and, li&e savages, t!ey would !ave suffered t!em e3aggeratedly for la*& of ino*ulation# .f t!ey suspe*ted t!at we wanted to drive t!em eit!er t!ey were mulis! or t!ey went away# .f we *ompre!ended t!em, and gave time and trou le to ma&e t!ings tempting to t!em, t!en t!ey would go to great pains for our pleasure# '!et!er t!e results a*!ieved were wort! t!e effort, no man *ould tell# 4nglis!men, a**ustomed to greater returns, would not, and, indeed, *ould not, !ave spent t!e time, t!oug!t and ta*t lavis!ed every day y s!ei&!s and emirs for su*! meagre ends# Ara pro*esses were *lear, Ara minds moved logi*ally as our own, wit! not!ing radi*ally in*ompre!ensi le or different, e3*ept t!e premiss- t!ere was no e3*use or reason, e3*ept our la+iness and ignoran*e, w!ere y we *ould *all t!em ins*ruta le or 8riental, or leave t!em misunderstood# (!ey would follow us, if we endured wit! t!em, and played t!e game a**ording to t!eir rules# (!e pity was, t!at we often egan to do so, and ro&e down wit! e3asperation and t!rew t!em over, laming t!em for w!at was a fault in our own selves# Su*! stri*tures li&e a general?s *omplaint of ad troops, were in reality a *onfession of our faulty foresig!t, often made falsely out of mo*& modesty to s!ow t!at, t!oug! mista&en, we !ad at least t!e wit to &now our fault#

&()PTE" ...+III
Cleanliness made me stop outside 'e>! and *!ange my filt!y *lot!es# :eisal, w!en . reported, led me into t!e inner tent to tal&# .t seemed t!at everyt!ing was well# More *ars !ad arrived from 4gypt1en o was emptied of its last soldiers and stores- and S!arraf !imself !ad *ome up, wit! an

une3pe*ted unit, a new ma*!ine-gun *ompany of amusing origin# 'e !ad left t!irty si*& and wounded men in 1en o w!en we mar*!ed away) also !eaps of ro&en weapons, wit! two %ritis! armourersergeants repairing t!em# (!e sergeants, w!o found time !ang !eavily, !ad ta&en mended ma3ims and patients and *om ined t!em into a ma*!ine-gun *ompany so t!oroug!ly trained y dum s!ow t!at t!ey were as good as t!e est we !ad# "a eg! also was eing a andoned# (!e aeroplanes from it !ad flown up !ere and were esta lis!ed# (!eir 4gyptian troops !ad een s!ipped after t!em, wit! /oy*e and Goslett and t!e "a eg! staff, w!o were now in *!arge of t!ings at 'e>!# 0ew*om e and $orn y were up *ountry tearing at t!e railway day and nig!t, almost wit! t!eir own !ands for la*& of !elpers# (!e tri al propaganda was mar*!ing forward- all was for t!e est, and . was a out to ta&e my leave w!en Suleiman, t!e guest-master, !urried in and w!ispered to :eisal, w!o turned to me wit! s!ining eyes, trying to e *alm, and said, ?Auda is !ere?# . s!outed, ?Auda a u (ayi?, and at t!at moment t!e tent-flap was drawn a*&, efore a deep voi*e w!i*! oomed salutations to 8ur 2ord, t!e Commander of t!e :ait!ful# (!ere entered a tall, strong figure, wit! a !aggard fa*e, passionate and tragi*# (!is was Auda, and after !im followed Mo!ammed, !is son, a *!ild in loo&s, and only eleven years old in trut!# :eisal !ad sprung to !is feet# Auda *aug!t !is !and and &issed it, and t!ey drew aside a pa*e or two and loo&ed at ea*! ot!er--a splendidly unli&e pair, typi*al of mu*! t!at was est in Ara ia, :eisal t!e prop!et, and Auda t!e warrior, ea*! filling !is part to perfe*tion, and immediately understanding and li&ing t!e ot!er# (!ey sat down# :eisal introdu*ed us one y one, and Auda wit! a measured word seemed to register ea*! person# 'e !ad !eard mu*! of Auda, and were an&ing to open A&a a wit! !is !elp) and after a moment . &new, from t!e for*e and dire*tness of t!e man, t!at we would attain our end# $e !ad *ome down to us li&e a &nig!t-errant, *!afing at our delay in 'e>!, an3ious only to e a*@uiring merit for Ara freedom in !is own lands# .f !is performan*e was one-!alf !is desire, we s!ould e prosperous and fortunate# (!e weig!t was off all minds efore we went to supper# 'e were a *!eerful party) 0asi , :ai+, Mo!ammed el D!eilan Auda?s politi* *ousin, Gaal !is nep!ew, and S!erif 0asir, resting in 'e>! for a few days etween e3peditions# . told :eisal odd stories of A dulla?s *amp, and t!e >oy of rea&ing railways# Suddenly Auda s*ram led to !is feet wit! a loud ?God for id?, and flung from t!e tent# 'e stared at one anot!er, and t!ere *ame a noise of !ammering outside# . went after to learn w!at it meant, and t!ere was Auda ent over a ro*& pounding !is false teet! to fragments wit! a stone# ?. !ad forgotten,? !e e3plained, ?/emal ,as!a gave me t!ese# . was eating my 2ord?s read wit! (ur&is! teet!A? 9nfortunately !e !ad few teet! of !is own, so t!at !en*eforward eating t!e meat !e loved was diffi*ulty and after-pain, and !e went a out !alfnouris!ed till we !ad ta&en A&a a, and Sir "eginald 'ingate sent !im a dentist from 4gypt to ma&e an Allied set# Auda was very simply dressed, nort!ern fas!ion, in w!ite *otton wit! a red Mosul !ead-*lot!# $e mig!t e over fifty, and !is la*& !air was strea&ed wit! w!ite) ut !e was still strong and straig!t, loosely uilt, spare, and as a*tive as a mu*! younger man# $is fa*e was magnifi*ent in its lines and !ollows# 8n it was written !ow truly t!e deat! in attle of Annad, !is favourite son, *ast sorrow over all !is life w!en it ended !is dream of !anding on to future generations t!e greatness of t!e name of A u (ayi# $e !ad large elo@uent eyes, li&e la*& velvet in ri*!ness# $is fore!ead was low and road, !is nose very !ig! and s!arp, powerfully !oo&ed- !is mout! rat!er large and mo ile- !is eard and mousta*!es !ad een trimmed to a point in $oweitat style, wit! t!e lower >aw s!aven underneat!# Centuries ago t!e $oweitat *ame from $e>a+, and t!eir nomad *lans prided t!emselves on eing true %edu# Auda was t!eir master type# $is !ospitality was sweeping) e3*ept to very !ungry souls, in*onvenient# $is generosity &ept !im always poor, despite t!e profits of a !undred raids# $e !ad married twenty-eig!t times, !ad een wounded t!irteen times) w!ilst t!e attles !e provo&ed !ad seen all !is tri esmen !urt and most of !is relations &illed# $e !imself !ad slain seventy-five men, Ara s, wit! !is own !and in attle- and never a man e3*ept in attle# 8f t!e num er of dead (ur&s !e *ould give no a**ount- t!ey did not enter t!e register# $is (owei!a under !im !ad e*ome t!e first fig!ters

of t!e desert, wit! a tradition of desperate *ourage, a sense of superiority w!i*! never left t!em w!ile t!ere was Me and wor& to do- ut w!i*! !ad redu*ed t!em from twelve !undred men to less t!an five !undred, in t!irty years, as t!e standard of nomadi* fig!ting rose# Auda raided as often as !e !ad opportunity, and as widely as !e *ould# $e !ad seen Aleppo, %asra, 'e>!, and 'adi Dawasir on !is e3peditions- and was *areful to e at enmity wit! nearly all tri es in t!e desert, t!at !e mig!t !ave proper s*ope for raids# After !is ro er-fas!ion, !e was as !ard-!eaded as !e was !ot-!eaded, and in !is maddest e3ploits t!ere would e a *old fa*tor of possi ility to lead !im t!roug!# $is patien*e in a*tion was e3treme- and !e re*eived and ignored advi*e, *riti*ism, or a use, wit! a smile as *onstant as it was very *!arming# .f !e got angry !is fa*e wor&ed un*ontrolla ly, and !e urst into a fit of s!a&ing passion, only to e assuaged after !e !ad &illed- at su*! times !e was a wild east, and men es*aped !is presen*e# 0ot!ing on eart! would ma&e !im *!ange !is mind or o ey an order to do t!e least t!ing !e disapproved) and !e too& no !eed of men?s feelings w!en !is fa*e was set# $e saw life as a saga# All t!e events in it were signifi*ant- all personages in *onta*t wit! !im !eroi*# $is mind was stored wit! poems of old raids and epi* tales of fig!ts, and !e overflowed wit! t!em on t!e nearest listener# .f !e la*&ed listeners !e would very li&ely sing t!em to !imself in !is tremendous voi*e, deep and resonant and loud# $e !ad no *ontrol over !is lips, and was t!erefore terri le to !is own interests and !urt !is friends *ontinually# $e spo&e of !imself in t!e t!ird person, andwas so sure of !is fame t!at !e loved to s!out out stories against !imself# At times !e seemed ta&en y a demon of mis*!ief, and in pu li* assem ly would invent and utter on oat! appalling tales of t!e private life of !is !osts or guests- and yet wit! all t!is !e was modest, as simple as a *!ild, dire*t, !onest, &ind!earted, and warmly loved even y t!ose to w!om !e was most em arrassing--!is friends# /oy*e lived near t!e ea*!, eside t!e spread lines of t!e 4gyptian troops, in an imposing array of large tents and small tents, and we tal&ed over t!ings done or to do# 4very effort was still dire*ted against t!e railway# 0ew*om e and Garland were near Muad!d!am wit! S!erif S!arraf and Maulud# (!ey !ad many %illi, t!e mule-mounted infantry, and guns and ma*!ine-guns, and !oped to ta&e t!e fort and railway station t!ere# 0ew*om e meant t!en to move a!l :eisal?s men forward very *lose to Medain Sali!, and, y ta&ing and !olding a part of t!e line, to *ut off Medina and *ompel its early surrender# 'ilson was *oming up to !elp in t!is operation, and Davenport would ta&e as many of t!e 4gyptian army as !e *ould transport, to reinfor*e t!e Ara atta*&# All t!is programme was w!at . !ad elieved ne*essary for t!e furt!er progress of t!e Ara "evolt w!en we too& 'e>!# . !ad planned and arranged some of it myself# %ut now, sin*e t!at !appy fever and dysentery in A dulla?s *amp !ad given me leisure to meditate upon t!e strategy and ta*ti*s of irregular war, it seemed t!at not merely t!e details ut t!e essen*e of t!is plan were wrong# .t t!erefore e*ame my usiness to e3plain my *!anged ideas, and if possi le to persuade my *!iefs to follow me into t!e new t!eory# So . egan wit! t!ree propositions# :irstly, t!at irregulars would not atta*& pla*es, and so remained in*apa le of for*ing a de*ision# Se*ondly, t!at t!ey were as una le to defend a line or point as t!ey were to atta*& it# (!irdly, t!at t!eir virtue lay in dept!, not in fa*e# (!e Ara war was geograp!i*al, and t!e (ur&is! Army an a**ident# 8ur aim was to see& t!e enemy?s wea&est material lin& and ear only on t!at till time made t!eir w!ole lengt! fail# 8ur largest resour*es, t!e %eduin on w!om our war must e uilt, were unused to formal operations, ut !ad assets of mo ility, toug!ness, self-assuran*e, &nowledge of t!e *ountry, intelligent *ourage# 'it! t!em dispersal was strengt!# Conse@uently we must e3tend our front to its ma3imum, to impose on t!e (ur&s t!e longest possi le passive defen*e, sin*e t!at was, materially, t!eir most *ostly form of war# 8ur duty was to attain our end wit! t!e greatest e*onomy of life, sin*e life was more pre*ious to us t!an money or time# .f we were patient and super!uman-s&illed, we *ould follow t!e dire*tion of Sa3e and rea*! vi*tory wit!out attle, y pressing our advantages mat!emati*al and psy*!ologi*al#

:ortunately our p!ysi*al wea&ness was not su*! as to demand t!is# 'e were ri*!er t!an t!e (ur&s in transport, ma*!ine-guns, *ars, !ig! e3plosive# 'e *ould develop a !ig!ly mo ile, !ig!ly e@uipped stri&ing for*e of t!e smallest si+e, and use it su**essively at distri uted points of t!e (ur&is! line, to ma&e t!em strengt!en t!eir posts eyond t!e defensive minimum of twenty men# (!is would e a s!ort *ut to su**ess# 'e must not ta&e Medina# (!e (ur& was !armless t!ere# .n prison in 4gypt !e would *ost us food and guards# 'e wanted !im to stay at Medina, and every ot!er distant pla*e, in t!e largest num ers# 8ur ideal was to &eep !is railway >ust wor&ing, ut only >ust, wit! t!e ma3imum of loss and dis*omfort# (!e fa*tor of food would *onfine !im to t!e railways, ut !e was wel*ome to t!e $e>a+ "ailway, and t!e (rans-/ordan railway, and t!e ,alestine and Syrian railways for t!e duration of t!e war, so long as !e gave us t!e ot!er nine !undred and ninety-nine t!ousandt!s of t!e Ara world# .f !e tended to eva*uate too soon, as a step to *on*entrating in t!e small area w!i*! !is num ers *ould dominate effe*tually, t!en we s!ould !ave to restore !is *onfiden*e y redu*ing our enterprises against !im# $is stupidity would e our ally, for !e would li&e to !old, or to t!in& !e !eld, as mu*! of !is old provin*es as possi le# (!is pride in !is imperial !eritage would &eep !im in !is present a surd position--all flan&s and no front# .n detail . *riti*i+ed t!e ruling s*!eme# (o !old a middle point of t!e railway would e e3pensive for t!e !olding for*e mig!t e t!reatened from ea*! side# (!e mi3ture of 4gyptian troops wit! tri esmen was a moral wea&ness# .f t!ere were professional soldiers present, t!e %eduin would stand aside and wat*! t!em wor&, glad to e e3*used t!e leading part# /ealousy, superadded to ineffi*ien*y, would e t!e out*ome# :urt!er, t!e %illi *ountry was very dry, and t!e maintenan*e of a large for*e up y t!e line te*!ni*ally diffi*ult# 0eit!er my general reasoning, !owever, nor my parti*ular o >e*tions !ad mu*! weig!t# (!e plans were made, and t!e preparations advan*ed# 4veryone was too usy wit! !is own wor& to give me spe*ifi* aut!ority to laun*! out on mine#All . gained was a !earing, and a @ualified admission t!at my *ounter-offensive mig!t e a useful diversion# . was wor&ing out wit! Auda a u (ayi a mar*! to t!e $oweitat in t!eir spring pastures of t!e Syrian desert# :rom t!em we mig!t raise a mo ile *amel for*e, and rus! A&a a from t!e eastward wit!out guns or ma*!ine-guns# (!e eastern was t!e unguarded side, t!e line of least resistan*e, t!e easiest for us# 8ur mar*! would e an e3treme e3ample of a turning movement, sin*e it involved a desert >ourney of si3 !undred miles to *apture a tren*! wit!in gunfire of our s!ips- ut t!ere was no pra*ti*a le alternative, and it was so entirely in t!e spirit of my si*&- ed ruminations t!at its issue mig!t well e fortunate, and would surely e instru*tive# Auda t!oug!t all t!ings possi le wit! dynamite and money, and t!at t!e smaller *lans a out A&a a would >oin us# :eisal, w!o was already in tou*! wit! t!em, also elieved t!at t!ey would !elp if we won a preliminary su**ess up y Maan and t!en moved in for*e against t!e port# (!e 0avy raided it w!ile we were t!in&ing, and t!eir *aptured (ur&s gave us su*! useful information t!at . e*ame eager to go off at on*e# (!e desert route to A&a a was so long and so diffi*ult t!at we *ould ta&e neit!er guns nor ma*!ineguns, nor stores nor regular soldiers# A**ordingly t!e element . would wit!draw from t!e railway s*!eme was only my single self) and, in t!e *ir*umstan*es, t!is amount was negligi le, sin*e . felt so strongly against it t!at my !elp t!ere would !ave een !alf-!earted# So . de*ided to go my own way, wit! or wit!out orders# . wrote a letter full of apologies to Clayton, telling !im t!at my intentions were of t!e est- and went#

Map $

,##- *#%". E0tendin/ to )1aba

&()PTE"S ...I. T# LI+
The port of Akaba was naturally so strong that it could be taken only by surprise from inland! but the opportune adherence to +eisal of Auda Abu Tayi made us hope to enrol enough tribesmen in the eastern desert for such a descent upon the coast. )asir, Auda, and $ set off together on the long ride. ,itherto +eisal had been the public leader! but his remaining in 2e&h threw the ungrateful load of this northern e%pedition upon myself. $ accepted it and its dishonest implication as our only means of victory. 2e tricked the Turks and entered Akaba with good fortune.

&()PTE" ...I.
%y May t!e nint! all t!ings were ready, and in t!e glare of mid-afternoon we left :eisal?s tent, !is good wis!es sounding after us from t!e !ill-top as we mar*!ed away# S!erif 0asir led us- !is lu*ent goodness, w!i*! provo&ed answering devotion even from t!e depraved, made !im t!e only leader Band a enedi*tionC for forlorn !opes# '!en we ro&e our wis!es to !im !e !ad sig!ed a little, for !e was ody-weary after mont!s of vanguard-servi*e, and mind-weary too, wit! t!e passing of yout!?s *areless years# $e feared !is maturity as it grew upon !im, wit! its ripe t!oug!t, its s&ill, its finis!ed art) yet w!i*! la*&ed t!e poetry of oy!ood to ma&e living a full end of life# ,!ysi*ally, !e was young yet- ut !is *!angeful and mortal soul was ageing @ui*&er t!an !is ody-going to die efore it, li&e most of ours# 8ur s!ort stage was to t!e fort of Se eil, inland 'e>!, w!ere t!e 4gyptian pilgrims used to water# 'e *amped y t!eir great ri*& tan&, in s!ade of t!e fort?s *urtain-wall, or of t!e palms, and put to rig!ts t!e defi*ien*ies w!i*! t!is first mar*! !ad s!own# Auda and !is &insmen were wit! us) also 0esi el %e&ri, t!e politi* Damas*ene, to represent :eisal to t!e villagers of Syria# 0esi !ad rains and position, and t!e *!ara*ter of a previous, su**essful, desert->ourney- !is *!eerful enduran*e of adventure, rare among Syrians, mar&ed !im out as our fellow, as mu*! as !is politi*al mind, !is a ility, !is persuasive good-!umoured elo@uen*e, and t!e patriotism w!i*! often over*ame !is native passion for t!e indire*t# 0esi *!ose Ge&i, a Syrian offi*er, as !is *ompanion# :or es*ort we !ad t!irty-five Ageyl, under i n Dg!eit!ir, a man walled into !is own temperament- remote, a stra*ted, self-suffi*ient# :eisal made up a purse of twenty t!ousand pounds in gold--all !e *ould afford and more t!an we as&ed for--to pay t!e wages of t!e new men we !oped to enrol, and to ma&e su*! advan*es as s!ould stimulate t!e $oweitat to swiftness# (!is in*onvenient load of four !undredweig!t of gold we s!ared out etween us, against t!e *!an*e of a**ident upon t!e road# S!ei&! 1usuf, now a*& in *!arge of supply, gave us ea*! a !alf- ag of flour, w!ose forty-five pounds were re*&oned a man?s pin*!ed ration for si3 wee&s# (!is went slung on t!e riding-saddle, and 0asir too& enoug! on aggage *amels to distri ute a furt!er fourteen pounds per man w!en we !ad mar*!ed t!e first fortnig!t, and !ad eaten room for it in our ags# 'e !ad a little spare ammunition and some spare rifles as presents) and loaded si3 *amels wit! lig!t pa*&s of lasting gelatine for rails or trains or ridges in t!e nort!# 0asir, a great 4mir in !is own pla*e, also *arried a good tent in w!i*! to re*eive visitors, and a *amel load of ri*e for t!eir entertainment- ut t!e last we ate etween us wit! !uge *omfort, as t!e unrelieved dietary of water-read and water, wee& after wee&, grew uninspiring# %eing eginners in t!is style of travelling, we did not &now t!at dry flour, t!e lig!test food, was t!erefore t!e est for a long >ourney# Si3 mont!s later neit!er 0asir nor myself wasted transport and trou le on t!e ri*e-lu3ury# My Ageyl--Mu&!eymer, Mer>an, Ali--!ad een supplemented y Mo!ammed, a lowsy o edient peasant oy from some village in $auran, and y Gasim, of Maan, a fanged and yellow-fa*ed outlaw, w!o fled into t!e desert to t!e $oweitat, after &illing a (ur&is! offi*ial in a dispute over *attle ta3# Crimes against ta3-gat!erers !ad a sympat!eti* aspe*t for all of us, and t!is gave Gasim a spe*ious rumour of geniality, w!i*! a*tually was far from trut!# 'e seemed a small party to win a new provin*e, and so apparently ot!ers t!oug!t) for presently 2amotte, %remond?s representative wit! :eisal, rode up to ta&e a farewell p!otograp! of us# A little later 1usuf arrived, wit! t!e good do*tor, and S!efi&, and 0esi ?s rot!ers, to wis! us su**ess on our mar*!# 'e >oined in a spa*ious evening meal, w!ose materials t!e prudent 1usuf !ad roug!t wit! !im# $is not-slender !eart per!aps misgave !im at t!e notion of a read supper- or was it t!e eautiful desire to give us a last feast efore we were lost in t!e wilderness of pain and evil refres!mentJ After t!ey !ad gone we loaded up, and started efore midnig!t on anot!er stage of our >ourney to t!e oasis of ;urr# 0asir, our guide, !ad grown to &now t!is *ountry nearly as well as !e did !is own# '!ile we rode t!roug! t!e moonlit and starry nig!t, !is memory was dwelling very intimately a out !is !ome# $e told me of t!eir stone-paved !ouse w!ose sun& !alls !ad vaulted roofs against t!e

summer !eat, and of t!e gardens planted wit! every &ind of fruit tree, in s!ady pat!s a out w!i*! t!ey *ould wal& at ease, mindless of t!e sun# $e told me of t!e w!eel over t!e well, wit! its ma*!inery of leat!ern trip- u*&ets, raised y o3en upon an in*lined pat! of !ard-trodden eart!) and of !ow t!e water from its reservoir slid in *on*rete *!annels y t!e orders of t!e pat!s) or wor&ed fountains in t!e *ourt eside t!e great vine-trellised swimming tan&, lined wit! s!ining *ement, wit!in w!ose green dept! !e and !is rot!er?s !ouse!old used to plunge at midday# 0asir, t!oug! usually merry, !ad a @ui*& vein of suffering in !im, and to-nig!t !e was wondering w!y !e, an 4mir of Medina, ri*! and powerful and at rest in t!at garden-pala*e, !ad t!rown up all to e*ome t!e wea& leader of desperate adventures in t!e desert# :or two years !e !ad een out*ast, always fig!ting eyond t!e front line of :eisal?s armies, *!osen for every parti*ular !a+ard, t!e pioneer in ea*! advan*e) and, meanw!ile, t!e (ur&s were in !is !ouse, wasting !is fruit trees and *!opping down !is palms# 4ven, !e said, t!e great well, w!i*! !ad sounded wit! t!e *rea& of t!e ullo*& w!eels for si3 !undred years, !ad fallen silent) t!e garden, *ra*&ed wit! !eat, was e*oming waste as t!e und !ills over w!i*! we rode# After four !ours? mar*! we slept for two, and rose wit! t!e sun# (!e aggage *amels, wea& wit! t!e *ursed mange of 'e>!, moved slowly, gra+ing all day as t!ey went# 'e riders, lig!t-mounted, mig!t !ave passed t!em easily) ut Auda, w!o was regulating our mar*!es, for ade, e*ause of t!e diffi*ulties in front, for w!i*! our animals would need all t!e fitness we *ould *onserve in t!em# So we plodded so erly on for si3 !ours in great !eat# (!e summer sun in t!is *ountry of w!ite sand e!ind 'e>! *ould da++le t!e eyes *ruelly, and t!e are ro*&s ea*! side our pat! t!rew off waves of !eat w!i*! made our !eads a*!e and swim# Conse@uently, y eleven of t!e forenoon we were mutinous against Auda?s wis! still to !old on# So we !alted and lay under trees till !alf-past two, ea*! of us trying to ma&e a solid, t!oug! s!ifting s!adow for !imself y means of a dou led lan&et *aug!t a*ross t!e t!orns of over!anging oug!s# 'e rode again, after t!is rea&, for t!ree gentle !ours over level ottoms, approa*!ing t!e walls of a great valley) and found t!e green garden of 4l ;urr lying >ust in front of us# '!ite tents peeped from among t!e palms# '!ile we dismounted, "asim and A dulla, Ma!mud, t!e do*tor, and even old Maulud, t!e *avalryman, *ame out to wel*ome us# (!ey told us t!at S!erif S!arraf, w!om we wis!ed to meet at A u "aga, our ne3t stopping pla*e, was away raiding for a few days# (!is meant t!at t!ere was no !urry, so we made !oliday at 4l ;urr for two nig!ts#

Au#a A"u Tayi

.t *ontented me- for t!e trou le of oils and fever w!i*! !ad s!a*&led me in 'adi Ais !ad *ome afres!, more strongly, ma&ing ea*! >ourney a pain, and ea*! rest a lessed rela3ation of my will strong to go on--a *!an*e to add patien*e to a s*ant reserve# So . lay still, and re*eived into my mind t!e sense of pea*e, t!e greenness and t!e presen*e of water w!i*! made t!is garden in t!e desert eautiful and !aunting, as t!oug! pre-visited# 8r was it merely t!at long ago we !ad seen fres! grass growing in t!e springJ (!e in!a itant of ;urr, t!e only sedentary %elluwi, !oary D!aif-Alla!, la oured day and nig!t wit! !is daug!ters in t!e little terra*ed plot w!i*! !e !ad re*eived from !is an*estors# .t was uilt out of t!e sout! edge of t!e valley in a ay defended against flood y a massive wall of un!ewn stone# .n its midst opened t!e well of *lear *old water, a ove w!i*! stood a alan*e-*antilever of mud and rude poles# %y t!is D!aif-Alla!, morning and evening w!en t!e sun was low, drew up great owls of water and spilled t!em into *lay runnels *ontrived t!roug! !is garden among t!e tree roots# $e grew low palms, for t!eir spreading leaves s!aded !is plants from t!e sun w!i*! ot!erwise mig!t in t!at star& valley wit!er t!em, and raised young to a**o B!is most profita le *ropC) wit! smaller plots of eans and melons, *u*um ers and egg-plants, in due season# (!e old man lived wit! !is women in a rus!wood !ut eside t!e well, and was s*ornful of our politi*s, demanding w!at more to eat or drin& t!ese sore efforts and loody sa*rifi*es would ring# 'e gently teased !im wit! notions of li erty) wit! freedom of t!e Ara *ountries for t!e Ara s# ?(!is Garden, D!aif-Alla!, s!ould it not e your very ownJ? $owever, !e would not understand, ut stood up to stri&e !imself proudly on t!e *!est, *rying, ?.--. am ;urr?# $e was free and wanted not!ing for ot!ers) and only !is garden for !imself# 0or did !e see w!y ot!ers s!ould not e*ome ri*! in a li&e frugality# $is felt s&ull-*ap, greased wit! sweat to t!e *olour and *onsisten*e of lead, !e oasted !ad een !is grandfat!er?s, oug!t w!en . ra!im ,as!a was in 'e>! a *entury efore- !is ot!er ne*essary garment was a s!irt, and annually, wit! !is to a**o, !e would uy t!e s!irt of t!e new year for !imself) one for ea*! of !is daug!ters, and one for t!e old woman--!is wife# Still we were grateful to !im, for, esides t!at !e s!owed an e3ample of *ontentment to us slaves of unne*essary appetite, !e sold vegeta les and on t!em, and on t!e tinned ounty of "asim and A dulla and Ma!mud, we lived ri*!ly# 4a*! evening round t!e fires t!ey !ad musi*, not t!e monotonous open-t!roated roaring of t!e tri es, nor t!e e3*iting !armony of t!e Ageyl, ut t!e falsetto @uarter tones and trills of ur an Syria# Maulud !ad musi*ians in !is unit) and as!ful soldiers were roug!t up ea*! evening to play guitars and sing *afe songs of Damas*us or t!e love verses of t!eir villages# .n A dulla?s tent, w!ere . was lodged, distan*e, t!e ripple of t!e fragrant out-pouring water, and t!e tree-leaves softened t!e musi*, so t!at it e*ame dully pleasant to t!e ear# 8ften, too, 0esi el %e&ri would ta&e out !is manus*ript of t!e songs of Selim el /e+airi, t!at fier*e uns*rupulous revolutionary w!o, in !is leisure moments etween *ampaigns, t!e Staff College, and t!e loody missions !e fulfilled for t!e 1oung (ur&s, !is masters, !ad made up verses in t!e *ommon spee*! of t!e people a out t!e freedom w!i*! was *oming to !is ra*e# 0esi and !is friends !ad a swaying r!yt!m in w!i*! t!ey would *!ant t!ese songs, putting all !ope and passion into t!e words, t!eir pale Damas*us fa*es moon-large in t!e firelig!t, sweating# (!e soldier *amp would grow dead silent till t!e stan+a ended, and t!en from every man would *ome a sig!ing, longing e*!o of t!e last note# 8nly old D!aif-Alla! went on splas!ing out !is water, sure t!at after we !ad finis!ed wit! our silliness someone would yet need and uy !is greenstuff#

&()PTE" .L
(o townsmen t!is garden was a memory of t!e world efore we went mad wit! war and drove ourselves into t!e desert- to Auda t!ere was an inde*en*y of e3!i ition in t!e plant-ri*!ness, and !e longed for an empty view# So we *ut s!ort our se*ond nig!t in paradise, and at two in t!e morning went on up t!e valley# .t was pit*! dar&, t!e very stars in t!e s&y eing una le to *ast lig!t into t!e

dept!s w!ere we were wandering# (o-nig!t Auda was guide, and to ma&e us sure of !im !e lifted up !is voi*e in an intermina le (io, !o, !o? song of t!e $oweitat) an epi* *!anted on t!ree ass notes, up and down, a*& and forward, in so round a voi*e t!at t!e words were indistinguis!a le# After a little we t!an&ed !im for t!e singing, sin*e t!e pat! went away to t!e left, and our long line followed !is turn y t!e e*!oes of !is voi*e rolling a out t!e torn la*& *liffs in t!e moonlig!t# 8n t!is long >ourney S!erif 0asir and Auda?s sour-smiling *ousin, Mo!ammed el D!eilan, too& pains wit! my Ara i*, giving me y turn lessons in t!e *lassi*al Medina tongue, and in t!e vivid desert language# At t!e eginning my Ara i* !ad een a !alting *ommand of t!e tri al diale*ts of t!e Middle 4up!rates Ba not impure formC, ut now it e*ame a fluent mingling of $e>a+ slang and nort!-tri al poetry wit! !ouse!old words and p!rases from t!e limpid 0e>di, and oo& forms from Syria# (!e fluen*y !ad a la*& of grammar, w!i*! made my tal& a perpetual adventure for my !earers# 0ew*omers imagined . must e t!e native of some un&nown illiterate distri*t) a s!ot-ru is! ground of dis>e*ted Ara i* parts of spee*!# $owever, as yet . understood not t!ree words of Auda?s, and after !alf an !our !is *!ant tired me, w!ile t!e old moon *lim ed slowly up t!e s&y, sailed over t!e topmost !ills and t!rew a de*eitful lig!t, less sure t!an dar&ness, into our valley# 'e mar*!ed until t!e early sun, very trying to t!ose w!o !ad ridden all nig!t, opposed us# %rea&fast was off our own flour, t!us lig!tening at last, after days of !ospitality, our poor *amels? food-load# S!arraf eing not yet in A u "aga, we made no more of !aste t!an water-diffi*ulties *ompelled) and, after food, again put up our lan&et roofs and lay till afternoon, fretfully dodging after t!eir unsta le s!adow, getting moist wit! !eat and t!e *onstant pri*&ing of flies# At last 0asir gave t!e mar*!ing signal, and we went on up t!e defile, wit! slig!tly pompous !ills ea*! side, for four !ours) w!en we agreed to *amp again in t!e valley ed# (!ere was a undant rus!wood for fuel) and up t!e *liff on our rig!t were ro*&-pools of fres! water, w!i*! gave us a deli*ious drin&# 0asir was wroug!t up) !e *ommanded ri*e for supper, and t!e friends to feed wit! us# 8ur rule of mar*! was odd and ela orate# 0asir, Auda, and 0esi were so many separate, pun*tilious !ouses, admitting t!e suprema*y of 0asir only e*ause . lived wit! !im as a guest and furnis!ed t!em wit! t!e e3ample of respe*t# 4a*! re@uired to e *onsulted on t!e details of our going, and w!ere and w!en we s!ould !alt# (!is was inevita le wit! Auda, a *!ild of attle w!o !ad never &nown a master, sin*e, as a tiny oy, !e !ad first ridden !is own *amel# .t was advisa le wit! 0esi , a Syrian of t!e @ueasy Syrian ra*e) >ealous) !ostile to merit, or to its a*&nowledgement# Su*! people demanded a war-*ry and anner from outside to *om ine t!em, and a stranger to lead t!em, one w!ose suprema*y s!ould e ased on an idea- illogi*al, undenia le, dis*riminant- w!i*! instin*t mig!t a**ept and reason find no rational asis to re>e*t or approve# :or t!is army of :eisal?s t!e *on*eit was t!at an 4mir of Me**a, a des*endant of t!e prop!et, a S!erif, was an ot!erworldly dignitary w!om sons of Adam mig!t reveren*e wit!out s!ame# (!is was t!e inding assumption of t!e Ara movement) it was t!is w!i*! gave it an effe*tive, if im e*ile unanimity# .n t!e morning we rode at five# 8ur valley pin*!ed toget!er, and we went round a s!arp spur, as*ending steeply# (!e tra*& e*ame a ad goat-pat!, +ig+agging up a !ill-side too pre*ipitous to *lim e3*ept on all fours# 'e dropped off our *amels and led t!em y t!e !ead-stalls# Soon we !ad to !elp ea*! ot!er, a man urging t!e *amels from e!ind, anot!er pulling t!em from t!e front, en*ouraging t!em over t!e worst pla*es, ad>usting t!eir loads to ease t!em# ,arts of t!e tra*& were dangerous, w!ere ro*&s ulged out and narrowed it, so t!at t!e near !alf of t!e load gra+ed and for*ed t!e animal to t!e *liff-edge# 'e !ad to re-pa*& t!e food and e3plosives) and, in spite of all our *are, lost two of our fee le *amels in t!e pass# (!e $oweitat &illed t!em w!ere t!ey lay ro&en, sta ing a &een dagger into t!e t!roat-artery near t!e *!est, w!ile t!e ne*& was strained tig!t y pulling t!e !ead round to t!e saddle# (!ey were at on*e *ut up and s!ared out as meat# (!e !ead of t!e pass we were glad to find not a range ut a spa*ious plateau w!i*! sloped slowly

efore us to t!e east# (!e first yards were roug! and ro*&y, overgrown wit! low mats of t!orns li&e ling) ut afterwards we *ame to a valley of w!ite s!ingle, in w!ose ed a %eduin woman was filling !er water-s&in wit! a *opper *up, ladling mil&y water, @uite pure and sweet, from a little !ole a foot wide, s*raped el ow deep in t!e pe les# (!is was A u Saad, and for its name?s sa&e and for its water, and t!e >oints of red meat umping on our saddles, we settled we would stay !ere one nig!t, filling up yet more of t!e time w!i*! must e filled efore S!arraf *ame a*& from !is e3pedition against t!e railway# So we rode on four more miles, to *amp under spreading trees, in *lose-grown t!i*&ets of t!orn-s*ru , !ollow underneat! li&e oot!s# %y day t!ese made tent-ri s for our lan&ets stret*!ed against t!e masterful sun# At nig!t t!ey were owers for our sleeping-pla*es# 'e !ad learned to sleep wit! not!ing over!ead ut moon and stars, and not!ing eit!er side to &eep distant t!e winds and noises of t!e nig!t) and y *ontrast it was strange, ut @uieting, to rest wit!in walls, wit! a roof a ove) even t!oug! walls and roof were only interla*ing twigs ma&ing a dar&er mes! against t!e star-s*attered s&y# :or myself, . was ill again) a fever in*reasing upon me, and my ody very sore wit! oils and t!e ru ing of my sweaty saddle# '!en 0asir, wit!out my prompting, !ad !alted at t!e !alf-stage, . turned and t!an&ed !im warmly, to !is astonis!ment# 'e were now on t!e limestone of t!e S!efa *rest# %efore us lay a great dar& lava-field, and s!ort of it a range of red and la*& anded sandstone *liffs wit! *oni*al tops# (!e air on t!e !ig! ta leland was not so warm) and morning and evening t!ere lew a*ross us a free *urrent w!i*! was refres!ing after t!e suspended stillness of t!e valleys# 'e rea&fasted on our *amel meat, and started more gaily t!e ne3t morning down a gently-falling plateau of red sandstone# (!en we *ame to t!e first rea& of surfa*e, a s!arp passage to t!e ottom of a s!ru -grown, sandy valley, on ea*! side of w!i*! sandstone pre*ipi*es and pinna*les, gradually growing in !eig!t as we went down, deta*!ed t!emselves s!arply against t!e morning s&y# .t was s!adowed in t!e ottom, and t!e air tasted wet and de*ayed, as t!oug! sap was drying out into it# (!e edges of t!e *liffs a out us were *lipped strangely, li&e fantasti* parapets# 'e wound on, ever deeper into t!e eart! until, !alf an !our later, y a s!arp *orner we entered 'adi /i+il, t!e main gutter of t!ese sandstone regions, w!ose end we !ad seen near $edia# /i+il was a deep gorge some two !undred yards in widt!, full of tamaris& sprouting from t!e ed of drifted sand, as well as from t!e soft twenty-foot an&s, !eaped up w!erever an eddy in flood or wind !ad laid t!e !eavier dust under t!e returns of *liffs# (!e walls ea*! side were of regular ands of sandstone, strea&ed red in many s!ades# (!e union of dar& *liffs, pin& floors, and pale green s!ru ery was eautiful to eyes sated wit! mont!s of sunlig!t and sooty s!adow# '!en evening *ame, t!e de*lining sun *rimsoned one side of t!e valley wit! its glow, leaving t!e ot!er in purple gloom# 8ur *amp was on some swelling dunes of weedy sand in an el ow of t!e valley, w!ere a narrow *left !ad set up a a*&-was! and s*ooped out a asin in w!i*! a ra*&is! remnant of last winter?s flood was *aug!t# 'e sent a man for news up t!e valley to an oleander t!i*&et w!ere we saw t!e w!ite pea&s of S!arraf?s tents# (!ey e3pe*ted !im ne3t day) so we passed two nig!ts in t!is strange-*oloured, e*!oing pla*e# (!e ra*&is! pool was fit for our *amels, and in it we at!ed at noon# (!en we ate and slept generously, and wandered in t!e nearer valleys to see t!e !ori+ontal stripes of pin& and rown and *ream and red w!i*! made up t!e general redness of t!e *liffs, delig!ting in t!e varied patterns of t!in pen*illings of lig!ter or dar&er tint w!i*! were drawn over t!e plain ody of ro*&# 8ne afternoon . spent e!ind some s!ep!erd?s fold of sandstone lo*&s in warm soft air and sunlig!t, wit! a low urden of t!e wind plu*&ing at t!e roug! wall-top a ove my !ead# (!e valley was instin*t wit! pea*e, and t!e wind?s *ontinuing noise made even it seem patient# My eyes were s!ut and . was dreaming, w!en a yout!ful voi*e made me see an an3ious Ageyli, a stranger, Daud, s@uatting y me# $e appealed for my *ompassion# $is friend :arra> !ad urned t!eir tent in a froli*, and Saad, *aptain of S!arraf?s Ageyl was going to eat !im in punis!ment# At my inter*ession !e would e released# Saad !appened, >ust t!en, to visit me, and . put it to !im, w!ile Daud sat wat*!ing us, !is mout! slig!tly, eagerly, open) !is eyelids narrowed over large, dar& eyes,

and !is straig!t rows furrowed wit! an3iety# Daud?s pupils, set a little in from t!e *entre of t!e eye all, gave !im an air of a*ute readiness# Saad?s reply was not *omforting# (!e pair were always in trou le, and of late so outrageous in t!eir tri*&s t!at S!arraf, t!e severe, !ad ordered an e3ample to e made of t!em# All !e *ould do for my sa&e was to let Daud s!are t!e ordained senten*e# Daud leaped at t!e *!an*e, &issed my !and and Saad?s and ran off up t!e valley) w!ile Saad, laug!ing, told me stories of t!e famous pair# (!ey were an instan*e of t!e eastern oy and oy affe*tion w!i*! t!e segregation of women made inevita le# Su*! friends!ips often led to manly loves of a dept! and for*e eyond our fles!-steeped *on*eit# '!en inno*ent t!ey were !ot and unas!amed# .f se3uality entered, t!ey passed into a give and ta&e, unspiritual relation, li&e marriage# 0e3t day S!arraf did not *ome# 8ur morning passed wit! Auda tal&ing of t!e mar*! in front, w!ile 0asir wit! forefinger and t!um fli*&ed sputtering mat*!es from t!e o3 a*ross !is tent at us# .n t!e midst of our merriment two ent figures, wit! pain in t!eir eyes, ut *roo&ed smiles upon t!eir lips, !o led up and saluted# (!ese were Daud t!e !asty and !is love-fellow, :arra>) a eautiful, softframed, girlis! *reature, wit! inno*ent, smoot! fa*e and swimming eyes# (!ey said t!ey were for my servi*e# . !ad no need of t!em) and o >e*ted t!at after t!eir eating t!ey *ould not ride# (!ey replied t!ey !ad now *ome are- a*&ed# . said . was a simple man w!o disli&ed servants a out !im# Daud turned away, defeated and angry) ut :arra> pleaded t!at we must !ave men, and t!ey would follow me for *ompany and out of gratitude# '!ile t!e !arder Daud revolted, !e went over to 0asir and &nelt in appeal, all t!e woman of !im evident in !is longing# At t!e end, on 0asir?s advi*e, . too& t!em ot!, mainly e*ause t!ey loo&ed so young and *lean#

&()PTE" .LI
S!arraf delayed to *ome until t!e t!ird morning, ut t!en we !eard !im loudly, for t!e Ara s of !is raiding for*e fired slow volleys of s!ots into t!e air, and t!e e*!oes were t!rown a out t!e windings of t!e valley till even t!e arren !ills seemed to >oin in t!e salute# 'e dressed in our *leanest to go and *all on !im# Auda wore t!e splendours !e !ad oug!t at 'e>!- a mouse-*oloured great*oat of road*lot! wit! velvet *ollar, and yellow elasti*-sided oots- t!ese elow !is streaming !air and ruined fa*e of a tired tragedianA S!arraf was &ind to us, for !e !ad *aptured prisoners on t!e line and lown up rails and a *ulvert# 8ne pie*e of !is news was t!at in 'adi Diraa, on our road, were pools of rain-water, new fallen and sweet# (!is would s!orten our waterless mar*! to :e>r y fifty miles, and remove its danger of t!irst) a great enefit, for our total water *arriage *ame to a out twenty gallons, for fifty men) too slender a margin of safety# 0e3t day we left A u "aga near mid-afternoon, not sorry, for t!is eautiful pla*e !ad een un!ealt!y for us and fever !ad ot!ered us during our t!ree days in its *onfined ed# Auda led us up a tri utary valley w!i*! soon widened into t!e plain of t!e S!egg--a sand flat# A out it, in s*attered *onfusion, sat small islands and pinna*les of red sandstone, grouped li&e sera*s, wind-eroded at t!e ases till t!ey loo&ed very fit to fall and lo*& t!e road) w!i*! wound in and out etween t!em, t!roug! narrows seeming to give no passage, ut always opening into anot!er ay of lind alleys# (!roug! t!is ma+e Auda led un!esitatingly) digging along on !is *amel, el ows out, !ands poised swaying in t!e air y !is s!oulders# (!ere were no footmar&s on t!e ground, for ea*! wind swept li&e a great rus! over t!e sand surfa*e, stippling t!e tra*es of t!e last travellers till t!e surfa*e was again a pattern of innumera le tiny virgin waves# 8nly t!e dried *amel droppings, w!i*! were lig!ter t!an t!e sand and rounded li&e walnuts, es*aped over its ripples# (!ey rolled a out, to e !eaped in *orners y t!e s&irling winds# .t was per!aps y t!em, as mu*! as y !is unrivalled road-sense, t!at Auda &new t!e way# :or us, t!e ro*& s!apes were *onstant spe*ulation and astonis!ment) t!eir granular surfa*es and red *olour and t!e *urved *!iselling of t!e sand- last upon t!em softened t!e sunlig!t, to give our streaming eyes relief#

.n t!e mid-mar*! we per*eived five or si3 riders *oming from t!e railway# . was in front wit! Auda, and we !ad t!at deli*ious t!rill- fiend or enemyJ? of meeting strangers in t!e desert, w!ilst we *ir*umspe*tly drew a*ross to t!e vantage side w!i*! &ept t!e rifle-arm free for a snap s!ot) ut w!en t!ey *ame nearer we saw t!ey were of t!e Ara for*es# (!e first, riding loosely on a !ul&ing *amel, wit! t!e unwieldy Man*!ester-made tim er saddle of t!e %ritis! Camel Corps, was a fair-!aired, s!aggy- earded 4nglis!man in tattered uniform# (!is we guessed must e $orn y, 0ew*om e?s pupil, t!e wild engineer w!o vied wit! !im in smas!ing t!e railway# After we !ad e3*!anged greetings, on t!is our first meeting, !e told me t!at 0ew*om e !ad lately gone to 'e>! to tal& over !is diffi*ulties wit! :eisal and ma&e fres! plans to meet t!em# 0ew*om e !ad *onstant diffi*ulties owing to e3*ess of +eal, and !is !a it of doing four times more t!an any ot!er 4nglis!man would do) ten times w!at t!e Ara s t!oug!t needful or wise# $orn y spo&e little Ara i*) and 0ew*om e not enoug! to persuade, t!oug! enoug! to give orders) ut orders were not in pla*e inland# (!e persistent pair would *ling for wee&s to t!e railway edge, almost wit!out !elpers, often wit!out food, till t!ey !ad e3!austed eit!er e3plosives or *amels and !ad to return for more# (!e arrenness of t!e !ills made t!eir trips !ungry for *amels, and t!ey wore out :eisal?s est animals in turn# .n t!is 0ew*om e was *!ief sinner, for !is >ourneys were done at t!e trot) also, as a surveyor, !e *ould not resist a loo& from ea*! !ig! !ill over t!e *ountry !e *rossed, to t!e e3asperation of !is es*ort w!o must eit!er leave !im to !is own *ourses Ba lasting disgra*e to a andon a *ompanion of t!e roadC, or founder t!eir own pre*ious and irrepla*ea le *amels in &eeping pa*e wit! !im# ?0ew*om e is li&e fire,? t!ey used to *omplain) (ie urns friend and enemy?) and t!ey admired !is ama+ing energy wit! nervous s!rin&ing lest t!ey s!ould e !is ne3t friendly vi*tims# Ara s told me 0ew*om e would not sleep e3*ept !ead on rails, and t!at $orn y would worry t!e metals wit! !is teet! w!en gun-*otton failed# (!ese were legends, ut e!ind t!em lay a sense of t!eir >oint insatiate savagery in destroying till t!ere was no more to destroy# :our (ur&is! la our attalions t!ey &ept usy, pat*!ing *ulverts, relaying sleepers, >ointing new rails) and gun-*otton !ad to *ome in in*reasing tons to 'e>! to meet t!eir appetites# (!ey were wonderful, ut t!eir too-great e3*ellen*e dis*ouraged our fee le teams, ma&ing t!em as!amed to e3!i it t!eir inferior talent- so 0ew*om e and $orn y remained as individualists, arren of t!e seven-fold fruits of imitation# At sunset we rea*!ed t!e nort!ern limit of t!e ruined sandstone land, and rode up to a new level, si3ty feet !ig!er t!an t!e old, lue- la*& and vol*ani*, wit! a s*attered *overing of worn asalt- lo*&s, small as a man?s !and, neatly edded li&e *o le paving over a floor of fine, !ard, la*& *inder-de ris of t!emselves# (!e rain in its long pelting seemed to !ave een t!e agent of t!ese stony surfa*es y was!ing away t!e lig!ter dust from a ove and etween, till t!e stones, set *losely side y side and as level as a *arpet, *overed all t!e fa*e of t!e plain and s!ielded from dire*t *onta*t wit! weat!er t!e salty mud w!i*! filled t!e intersti*es of t!e lava flow eneat!# .t grew easier going, and Auda ventured to *arry on after t!e lig!t !ad failed, mar*!ing upon t!e ,olar Star# .t was very dar&) a pure nig!t enoug!, ut t!e la*& stone underfoot swallowed t!e lig!t of t!e stars, and at seven o?*lo*&, w!en at last we !alted, only four of our party were wit! us# 'e !ad rea*!ed a gentle valley, wit! a yet damp, soft, sandy ed, full of t!orny rus!wood, un!appily useless as *amel food# 'e ran a out tearing up t!ese itter us!es y t!e roots and !eaping t!em in a great pyre, w!i*! Auda lit# '!en t!e fire grew !ot a long la*& sna&e wormed slowly out into our group) we must !ave gat!ered it, torpid, wit! t!e twigs# (!e flames went s!ining a*ross t!e dar& flat, a ea*on to t!e !eavy *amels w!i*! !ad lagged so mu*! to-day t!at it was two !ours efore t!e last group arrived, t!e men singing t!eir loudest, partly to en*ourage t!emselves and t!eir !ungry animals over t!e g!ostly plain, partly so t!at we mig!t &now t!em friends# 'e wis!ed t!eir slowness slower, e*ause of our warm fire# .n t!e nig!t some of our *amels strayed and our people !ad to go loo&ing for t!em so long, t!at it was nearly eig!t o?*lo*&, and we !ad a&ed read and eaten, efore again we started# 8ur tra*& lay a*ross more lava-field, ut to our morning strengt! t!e stones seemed rarer, and waves or !ard surfa*es of laid sand often drowned t!em smoot!ly wit! a *overing as good to mar*! on as a tennis *ourt# 'e rode fast over t!is for si3 or seven miles, and t!en turned west of a low *inder-*rater a*ross t!e flat, dar&, stony waters!ed w!i*! divided /i+il from t!e asin in w!i*! t!e railway ran# (!ese

great water systems up !ere at t!eir springing were s!allow, sandy eds, s*oring involved yellow lines a*ross t!e lue- la*& plain# :rom our !eig!t t!e lie of t!e land was patent for miles, wit! t!e main features *oloured in layers, li&e a map# 'e mar*!ed steadily till noon, and t!en sat out on t!e are ground till t!ree) an uneasy !alt made ne*essary y our fear t!at t!e de>e*ted *amels, so long a**ustomed only to t!e sandy tra*&s of t!e *oastal plain, mig!t !ave t!eir soft feet s*or*!ed y t!e sun- a&ed stones, and go lame wit! us on t!e road# After we mounted, t!e going e*ame worse, and we !ad *ontinually to avoid large fields of piled asalt, or deep yellow water*ourses w!i*! *ut t!roug! t!e *rust into t!e soft stone eneat!# After a w!ile red sandstone again *ropped out in *ra+y *!imneys, from w!i*! t!e !arder layers pro>e*ted &nife-s!arp in level s!elves eyond t!e soft, *rum ling ro*&# At last t!ese sandstone ruins e*ame plentiful, in t!e manner of yesterday, and stood grouped a out our road in similar *!e@uered yards of lig!t and s!ade# Again we marvelled at t!e sureness wit! w!i*! Auda guided our little party t!roug! t!e ma+y ro*&s# (!ey passed, and we re-entered vol*ani* ground# 2ittle pimply *raters stood a out, often two or t!ree toget!er, and from t!em spines of !ig!, ro&en asalt led down li&e disordered *auseways a*ross t!e arren ridges) ut t!ese *raters loo&ed old, not s!arp and well-&ept li&e t!ose of "as Gara, near 'adi Ais, ut worn and degraded, sometimes nearly to surfa*e level y a great ay ro&en into t!eir *entral !ollow# (!e asalt w!i*! ran out from t!em was a *oarse u led ro*&, li&e Syrian dolerite# (!e sandladen winds !ad ground its e3posed surfa*es to a pitted smoot!ness li&e orange-rind, and t!e sunlig!t !ad faded out its lue to a !opeless grey# %etween *raters t!e asalt was strewn in small tetra!edra, wit! angles ru ed and rounded, stone tig!t to stone li&e tessera*t upon a ed of pin&-yellow mud# (!e ways worn a*ross su*! flats y t!e *onstant passage of *amels were very evident, sin*e t!e slou*!ing tread !ad pus!ed t!e lo*&s to ea*! side of t!e pat!, and t!e t!in mud of wet weat!er !ad run into t!ese !ollows and now inlaid t!em palely against t!e lue# 2ess-used roads for !undreds of yards were li&e narrow ladders a*ross t!e stone-fields, for t!e tread of ea*! foot was filled in wit! *lean yellow mud, and ridges or ars of t!e lue-grey stone remained etween ea*! stepping pla*e# After a stret*! of su*! stone-laying would e a field of >et- la*& asalt *inders, firm as *on*rete in tie sun- a&ed mud, and afterwards a valley of soft, la*& sand, wit! more *rags of weat!ered sandstone rising from t!e la*&ness, or from waves of t!e wind- lown red and yellow grains of t!eir own de*ay# 0ot!ing in t!e mar*! was normal or reassuring# 'e felt we were in an ominous land, in*apa le of life, !ostile even to t!e passing of life, e3*ept painfully along su*! sparse roads as time !ad laid a*ross its fa*e# 'e were for*ed into a single file of weary *amels, pi*&ing a !esitant way step y step t!roug! t!e oulders for !our after !our# At last Auda pointed a!ead to a fifty-foot ridge of large twisted lo*&s, lying *oursed one upon t!e ot!er as t!ey !ad writ!ed and s!run& in t!eir *ooling# (!ere was t!e limit of lava) and !e and . rode on toget!er and saw in front of us an open rolling plain B'adi Ais!C of fine s*ru and golden sand, wit! green us!es s*attered !ere and t!ere# .t !eld a very little water in !oles w!i*! someone !ad s*ooped after t!e rainstorm of t!ree wee&s ago# 'e *amped y t!em and drove our unladen *amels out till sunset, to gra+e for t!e first ade@uate time sin*e A u "aga# '!ile t!ey were s*attered over t!e land, mounted men appeared on t!e !ori+on to t!e east, ma&ing towards t!e water# (!ey *ame on too @ui*&ly to e !onest, and fired at our !erdsmen) ut t!e rest of us ran at on*e upon t!e s*attered reefs and &nolls, s!ooting or s!outing# $earing us so many t!ey drew off as fast as t!eir *amels would go) and from t!e ridge in t!e dus& we saw t!em, a are do+en in all, s*ampering away towards t!e line# 'e were glad to see t!em avoid us so t!oroug!ly# Auda t!oug!t t!ey were a S!ammar patrol# At dawn we saddled up for t!e s!ort stage to Diraa, t!e water pools of w!i*! S!arraf !ad told us# (!e first miles were t!roug! t!e grateful sand and s*ru of 'adi Ais!, and afterwards we *rossed a simple lava flat# (!en *ame a s!allow valley, more full of sandstone pillars and mus!rooms and pinna*les t!an anyw!ere yesterday# .t was a mad *ountry, of nine-pins from ten to si3ty feet in !eig!t# (!e sand-

pat!s etween t!em were wide enoug! for one only, and our long *olumn wound lindly t!roug!, seldom a do+en of us !aving *ommon sig!t at on*e# (!is ragged t!i*&et of stone was per!aps a t!ird of a mile in widt!, and stret*!ed li&e a red *opse to rig!t and left a*ross our pat!# %eyond it a graded pat! over la*& ledges of rotten stone led us to a plateau strewn wit! small, loose, lue- la*& asalt s!ards# After a w!ile we entered 'adi Diraa and mar*!ed down its ed for an !our or more, sometimes over loose grey stone, sometimes along a sandy ottom etween low lips of ro*&# A deserted *amp wit! empty sardine tins gave proof of 0ew*om e and $orn y# %e!ind were t!e limpid pools, and we !alted t!ere till afternoon) for we were now @uite near t!e railway, and !ad to drin& our stoma*!s full and fill our fewwater-s&ins, ready for t!e long das! to :e>r# .n t!e !alt Auda *ame down to see :arra> and Daud dress my *amel wit! utter for relief against t!e intolera le it*! of mange w!i*! !ad ro&en out re*ently on its fa*e# (!e dry pasturage of t!e %illi *ountry and t!e infe*ted ground of 'e>! !ad played !avo* wit! our easts# .n a!l :eisal?s stud of riding-*amels t!ere was not one !ealt!y) in our little e3pedition every *amel was wea&ening daily# 0asir was full of an3iety lest many rea& down in t!e for*ed mar*! efore us and leave t!eir riders stranded in t!e desert# 'e !ad no medi*ines for mange and *ould do little for it in spite of our need# $owever, t!e ru ing and anointing did ma&e my animal more *omforta le, and we repeated it as often as :arra> or Daud *ould find utter in our party# (!ese two oys were giving me great satisfa*tion# (!ey were rave and *!eerful eyond t!e average of Ara servant-&ind# As t!eir a*!es and pains wore off t!ey s!owed t!emselves a*tive, good riders, and willing wor&men# . li&ed t!eir freedom towards myself and admired t!eir instin*tive understanding wit! one anot!er against t!e demands of t!e world#

&()PTE" .LII
%y a @uarter to four we were in t!e saddle, going down 'adi Diraa, into steep and !ig! ridges of s!ifting sand, sometimes wit! a *ap of !ars! red ro*& >utting from t!em# After a w!ile, t!ree or four of us, in advan*e of t!e main ody, *lim ed a sand-pea& on !ands and &nees to spy out t!e railway# (!ere was no air, and t!e e3er*ise was more t!an we re@uired) ut our reward was immediate, for t!e line s!owed itself @uiet and deserted-loo&ing, on a green flat at t!e mout! of t!e deep valley down w!i*! t!e rest of t!e *ompany was mar*!ing *ir*umspe*tly wit ! ready weapons# 'e *!e*&ed t!e men at t!e ottom of t!eir narrow sand-fold, w!ilst we studied t!e railway# 4veryt!ing was indeed pea*eful and empty, even to t!e a andoned lo*&!ouse in a ri*! pat*! of ran& grass and weeds etween us and t!e line# 'e ran to t!e edge of t!e ro*&-s!elf, leaped out from it into t!e fine dry sand, and rolled down in a magnifi*ent slide till we *ame to an a rupt and rat!er ruising !alt in t!e level ground eside t!e *olumn# 'e mounted, to !urry our *amels out to t!e gra+ing, and leaving t!em t!ere ran over to t!e railway and s!outed t!e ot!ers on# (!is unmolested *rossing was lessed, for S!arraf !ad warned us seriously against t!e enemy patrols of mule-riding infantry and *amel *orps, reinfor*ed from t!e entren*!ed posts y infantry on trolleys mounting ma*!ine-guns# 8ur riding- easts we *!ased into t!e grass to feed for a few minutes, w!ile t!e !eavy *amels mar*!ed over t!e valley, t!e line, and t!e fart!er flat, till s!eltered in t!e sand and ro*& mout!s of t!e *ountry eyond t!e railway# Meanw!ile t!e Ageyl amused us y fi3ing gun-*otton or gelatine *!arges a out our *rossing-pla*e to as many of t!e rails as we !ad time to rea*!, and w!en our mun*!ing *amels !ad een dragged away into safety on t!e far side of t!e line, we egan, in proper order, to lig!t t!e fuses, filling t!e !ollow valley wit! t!e e*!oes of repeated ursts# Auda !ad not efore &nown dynamite, and wit! a *!ild?s first pleasure was moved to a rus! of !asty poetry on its powerful glory# 'e *ut t!ree telegrap! wires, and fastened t!e free ends to t!e saddles of si3 riding-*amels of t!e $oweitat# (!e astonis!ed team struggled far into t!e eastern valleys wit! t!e growing weig!t of twanging, tangling wire and t!e ursting poles dragging after t!em# At last t!ey *ould no longer move# So we *ut t!em loose and rode laug!ing after t!e *aravan#

:or five miles we pro*eeded in t!e growing dus&, etween ridges w!i*! seemed to run down li&e fingers from some &nu*&le in front of us# At last t!eir rise and fall e*ame too s!arp to e *rossed wit! safety y our wea& animals in t!e dar&, and we !alted# (!e aggage and t!e ul& of our riders were still a!ead of us, &eeping t!e advantage t!ey !ad gained w!ile we played wit! t!e railway# .n t!e nig!t we *ould not find t!em, for t!e (ur&s were s!outing !ard and s!ooting at s!adows from t!eir stations on t!e line e!ind us) and we >udged it prudent to &eep @uiet ourselves, not lig!ting fires nor sending up signals to attra*t attention# $owever, i n Dg!eit!ir, in *!arge of t!e main ody, !ad left a *onne*ting file e!ind, and so efore we !ad fallen asleep, two men *ame in to us, and reported t!at t!e rest were se*urely *amped in t!e !idden fold of a steep sand- an& a little furt!er on# 'e t!rew our saddle- ags again a*ross our *amels, and plodded after our guides in t!e mur&y dar& Bto-nig!t was almost t!e last nig!t of t!e moonC till we rea*!ed t!eir !us!ed pi*&et on t!e ridge, and edded ourselves down eside t!em wit!out words# .n t!e morning Auda !ad us afoot efore four, going up!ill, till at last we *lim ed a ridge, and plunged over, down a sand slope# .nto it our *amels san& &nee-deep, !eld uprig!t despite t!emselves y its *linging# (!ey were a le to ma&e forward only y *asting t!emselves on and down its loose fa*e, rea&ing t!eir legs out of it y t!eir odies? weig!t# At t!e ottom we found ourselves in t!e !ead-*ourses of a valley, w!i*! trended towards t!e railway# Anot!er !alf-!our too& us to t!e springing of t!is, and we reasted t!e low edge of t!e plateau w!i*! was t!e waters!ed etween $e>a+ and Sir!an# (en yards more, and we were eyond t!e "ed Sea slope of Ara ia, fairly em ar&ed upon t!e mystery of its *entral drainage# Seemingly it was a plain, wit! an illimita le view down!ill to t!e east, w!ere one gentle level after anot!er slowly modulated into a distan*e only to e *alled distan*e e*ause it was a softer lue, and more !a+y# (!e rising sun flooded t!is falling plain wit! a perfe*t level of lig!t, t!rowing up long s!adows of almost imper*epti le ridges, and t!e w!ole life and play of a *ompli*ated groundsystem-- ut a transient one) for, as we loo&ed at it, t!e s!adows drew in towards t!e dawn, @uivered a last moment e!ind t!eir mot!er- an&s, and went out as t!oug! at a *ommon signal# :ull morning !ad egun- t!e river of sunlig!t, si*&eningly in t!e full-fa*e of us moving *reatures, poured impartially on every stone of t!e desert over w!i*! we !ad to go# Auda stru*& out nort!-eastward, aiming for a little saddle w!i*! >oined t!e low ridge of 9gula to a lofty !ill on t!e divide, to our left or nort! a out t!ree miles away# 'e *rossed t!e saddle after four miles, and found eneat! our feet little s!allow runnels of water-*ourses in t!e ground# Auda pointed to t!em, saying t!at t!ey ran to 0e & in Sir!an, and t!at we would follow t!eir swelling ed nort!ward and eastward to t!e $oweitat in t!eir summer *amp# A little later we were mar*!ing over a low ridge of slivers of sandstone wit! t!e nature of slate, sometimes @uite small, ut ot!er times great sla s ten feet ea*! way and, per!aps, four in*!es t!i*&# Auda ranged up eside my *amel, and pointing wit! !is riding-sti*& told me to write down on my map t!e names and nature of t!e land# (!e valleys on our left were t!e Seyal A u Arad, rising in Sel!u , and fed y many su**essors from t!e great divide, as it prolonged itself nort!ward to /e el "ufeiya y (e u&# (!e valleys on our rig!t were t!e Siyul el ;el , from 9gula, Agidat el /emelein, 2e da and t!e ot!er ridges w!i*! ent round us in a strung ow eastward and nort!-eastward *arrying t!e great divide as it were in a foray out a*ross t!e plain# (!ese two water systems united fifty miles efore us in :e>r, w!i*! was a tri e, its well, and t!e valley of its well# . *ried Auda mer*y of !is names, swearing . was no writer-down of unspoiled *ountries, or pandar to geograp!i*al *uriosity) and t!e old man, mu*! pleased, egan to tell me personal notes and news of t!e *!iefs wit! us, and in front upon our line of mar*!# $is prudent tal& w!iled away t!e slow passage of a omina le desolation# (!e :e>r %edouin, w!ose property it was, *alled our plain 4l $oul e*ause it was desolate) and to-day we rode in it wit!out seeing signs of life) no tra*&s of ga+elle, no li+ards, no urrowing of rats, not even any irds# 'e, ourselves, felt tiny in it, and our urgent progress a*ross its immensity was a stillness or immo ility of futile effort# (!e only sounds were t!e !ollow e*!oes, li&e t!e s!utting

down of pavements over vaulted pla*es, of rotten stone sla on stone sla w!en t!ey tilted under our *amels? feet) and t!e low ut pier*ing rustle of t!e sand, as it *rept slowly westward efore t!e !ot wind along t!e worn sandstone, under t!e !arder over!anging *aps w!i*! gave ea*! reef its eroded, rind-li&e s!ape# .t was a reat!less wind, wit! t!e furna*e taste sometimes &nown in 4gypt w!en a &!amsin *ame) and, as t!e day went on and t!e sun rose in t!e s&y it grew stronger, more filled wit! t!e dust of t!e 0efud!, t!e great sand desert of 0ort!ern Ara ia, *lose y us over t!ere, ut invisi le t!roug! t!e !a+e# %y noon it lew a !alf-gale, so dry t!at our s!rivelled lips *ra*&ed open, and t!e s&in of our fa*es *!apped) w!ile our eyelids, gone granular, seemed to *reep a*& and are our s!rin&ing eyes# (!e Ara s drew t!eir !ead-*lot!es tig!tly a*ross t!eir noses, and pulled t!e row-folds forward li&e vi+ors wit! only a narrow, loose-flapping slit of vision# At t!is stifling pri*e t!ey &ept t!eir fles! un ro&en, for t!ey feared t!e sand parti*les w!i*! would wear open t!e *!aps into a painful wound- ut, for my own part, . always rat!er li&ed a &!amsin, sin*e its torment seemed to fig!t against man&ind wit! ordered *ons*ious malevolen*e, and it was pleasant to outfa*e it so dire*tly, *!allenging its strengt!, and *on@uering its e3tremity# (!ere was pleasure also in t!e salt sweat-drops w!i*! ran singly down t!e long !air over my fore!ead, and dripped li&e i*e-water on my *!ee&# At first, . played at *at*!ing t!em in my mout!) ut, as we rode furt!er into t!e desert and t!e !ours passed, t!e wind e*ame stronger, t!i*&er in dust, more terri le in !eat# All sem lan*e of friendly *ontest passed# My *amel?s pa*e e*ame suffi*ient in*rease to t!e irritation of t!e *!o&ing waves, w!ose dryness ro&e my s&in and made my t!roat so painful t!at for t!ree days afterwards . *ould eat little of our stodgy read# '!en evening at last *ame to us . was *ontent t!at my urned fa*e still felt t!e ot!er and milder air of dar&ness# 'e plodded on all t!e day Beven wit!out t!e wind for idding us t!ere *ould !ave een no more lu3ury-!alts under t!e s!adow of lan&ets, if we would arrive un ro&en men wit! strong *amels at el :e>rC, and not!ing made us widen an eye or t!in& a t!oug!t till after t!ree in t!e afternoon# (!en, a ove two natural tumuli, we *ame to a *ross-ridge swelling at last into a !ill# Auda !us&ily spat e3tra names at me# %eyond it a long slope, slow degrees of a was!ed gravel surfa*e wit! stripings of an o**asional torrent- ed, went down westward# Auda and . trotted a!ead toget!er for relief against t!e intolera le slowness of t!e *aravan# (!is side t!e sunset glow a modest wall of !ills arred our way to t!e nort!# S!ortly afterwards t!e Seil a u Arad, turning east, swept along our front in a ed a fair mile wide) it was in*!es deep wit! s*ru as dry as dead wood, w!i*! *ra*&led and split wit! little spurts of dust w!en we egan to gat!er it for a fire to s!ow t!e ot!ers w!ere we !ad made t!e !alt# 'e gat!ered and gat!ered vigorously, till we !ad a great *o*& ready for lig!ting# (!en we found t!at neit!er of us !ad a mat*!# (!e mass did not arrive for an !our or more, w!en t!e wind !ad altoget!er died away, and t!e evening, *alm and la*& and full of stars, !ad *ome down on us# Auda set a wat*! t!roug! t!e nig!t, for t!is distri*t was in t!e line of raiding parties, and in t!e !ours of dar&ness t!ere were no friends in Ara ia# 'e !ad *overed a out fifty miles t!is day) all we *ould at a stret*!, and enoug! a**ording to our programme# So we !alted t!e nig!t !ours) partly e*ause our *amels were wea& and ill, and gra+ing meant mu*! to t!em, and partly e*ause t!e $oweitat were not intimate wit! t!is *ountry, and feared to lose t!eir way if t!ey s!ould ride too oldly wit!out seeing#

&()PTE" .LIII
%efore dawn t!e following day we started down t!e ed of Seil A u Arad till t!e w!ite sun *ame up over t!e Gi liyat !ills a!ead of us# 'e turned more nort! to *ut off an angle of t!e valley, and !alted for !alf an !our till we saw t!e main ody *oming# (!en Auda, 0asir and myself, una le longer to endure passively t!e !ammer stro&es of t!e sun upon our owed !eads, pus!ed forward at a >er&y trot# Almost at on*e we lost sig!t of t!e ot!ers in t!e lymp!-li&e !eat-vapour t!ro ing a*ross t!e flat- ut t!e road was evident, down t!e s*ru y ed of 'adi :e>r# At t!e !eig!t of noon we rea*!ed t!e well of our desire# .t was a out t!irty feet deep, stone-steyned, seemingly an*ient# (!e water was a undant, slig!tly ra*&is!, ut not ill-tasting w!en drun& fres!t!oug! it soon grew foul in a s&in# (!e valley !ad flooded in some urst of rain t!e year efore, and t!erefore *ontained mu*! dry and t!irsty pasturage- to t!is we loosed our *amels# (!e rest *ame up, and drew water and a&ed read# 'e let t!e *amels *rop industriously till nig!tfall, t!en watered t!em again, and pounded t!em under t!e an& a !alf-mile from t!e water, for t!e nig!t- t!us leaving t!e well unmolested in *ase raiders s!ould need it in t!e dar& !ours# 1et our sentries !eard no one# As usual we were off efore dawn, t!oug! we !ad an easy mar*! efore us) ut t!e !eated glare of t!e desert e*ame so painful t!at we designed to pass t!e midday in some s!elter# After two miles t!e valley spread out, and later we *ame to a low, ro&en *liff on t!e east an& opposite t!e mout! of Seil "aug!a# $ere t!e *ountry loo&ed more green, and we as&ed Auda to fet*! us game# $e sent Gaal one way and rode westward !imself a*ross t!e open plain w!i*! stret*!ed eyond view, w!ile we turned in to t!e *liffs and found eneat! t!eir fallen *rags and under*ut ledges a undant s!ady noo&s, *ool against t!e sun and restful for our una**ustomed eyes# (!e !unters returned efore noon, ea*! wit! a good ga+elle# 'e !ad filled our water-s&ins at :e>r, and *ould use t!em up, for t!e water of A u A>a> was near- so t!ere was feasting on read and meat in our stone dens# (!ese indulgen*es, amid t!e slow fatigue of long un ro&en mar*!es, were grateful to t!e deli*ate townsfol& among us- to myself, and to Ge&i, and 0esi ?s Syrian servants, and in a lesser degree to 0esi !imself# 0asir?s *ourtesy as !ost, and !is fount of native &indliness made !im e3@uisite in attention to us w!enever t!e road allowed# (o !is patient tea*!ing . owed most of my later *ompeten*e to a**ompany tri al Ara s on t!e mar*! wit!out ruining t!eir range and speed# 'e rested till two in t!e afternoon, and rea*!ed our stage, ;!a r A>a>, >ust efore sunset, after a dull ride over a duller plain w!i*! prolonged 'adi :e>r to t!e eastward for many miles# (!e pool was of t!is year?s rain, already turned t!i*&) and ra*&is!) ut good for *amels and >ust possi le for men to drin&# .t lay in a s!allow dou le depression y 'adi :e>r, w!ose flood !ad filled it two feet deep over an area two !undred yards a*ross# At its nort! end was a low sandstone dump# 'e !ad t!oug!t to find $oweitat !ere) ut t!e ground was gra+ed are and t!e water fouled y t!eir animals, w!ile t!ey t!emselves were gone# Auda sear*!ed for t!eir tra*&s, ut *ould find none- t!e wind-storms !ad swept t!e sand-fa*e into *lean new ripples# $owever, sin*e t!ey !ad *ome down !ere from (u ai&, t!ey must !ave gone on and out into Sir!an- so, if we went away nort!ward, we s!ould find t!em# (!e following day, despite t!e intermina le lapse of time, was only our fourteent! from 'e>!) and its sun rose upon us again mar*!ing# .n t!e afternoon we at last left 'adi :e>r to steer for Arfa>a in Sir!an, a point rat!er east of nort!# A**ordingly, we in*lined rig!t, over flats of limestone and sand, and saw a distant *orner of t!e Great 0efud!, t!e famous elts of sand-dune w!i*! *ut off /e el S!ammar from t!e Syrian Desert# ,algrave, t!e %lunts, and Gertrude %ell amongst t!e storied travellers !ad *rossed it, and . egged Auda to ear off a little and let us enter it, and t!eir *ompanyut !e growled t!at men went to t!e 0efud! only of ne*essity, w!en raiding, and t!at t!e son of !is fat!er did not raid on a tottering, mangy *amel# 8ur usiness was to rea*! Arfa>a alive# So we wisely mar*!ed on, over monotonous, glittering sand) and over t!ose worse stret*!es, ?Giaan?, of polis!ed mud, nearly as w!ite and smoot! as laid paper, and often w!ole miles s@uare# (!ey la+ed a*& t!e sun into our fa*es wit! glassy vigour, so we rode wit! its lig!t raining dire*t arrows upon our !eads, and its refle*tion glan*ing up from t!e ground t!roug! our inade@uate eyelids# .t was not a

steady pressure, ut a pain e ing and flowing) at one time piling itself up and up till we nearly swooned) and t!en falling away *oolly, in a moment of false s!adow li&e a la*& we *rossing t!e retina- t!ese gave us a moment?s reat!ing spa*e to store new *apa*ity for suffering, li&e t!e struggles to t!e surfa*e of a drowning man# 'e grew s!ort-answered to one anot!er) ut relief *ame toward si3 o?*lo*&, w!en we !alted for supper, and a&ed ourselves fres! read# . gave my *amel w!at was left over of my s!are, for t!e poor animal went tired and !ungry in t!ese ad mar*!es# S!e was t!e pedigree *amel given y . n Saud of 0e>d to ;ing $ussein and y !im to :eisal) a splendid east) roug!, ut sure-footed on !ills, and great-!earted# Ara s of means rode none ut s!e-*amels, sin*e t!ey went smoot!er under t!e saddle t!an males, and were etter tempered and less noisy- also, t!ey were patient and would endure to mar*! long after t!ey were worn out, indeed until t!ey tottered wit! e3!austion and fell in t!eir tra*&s and died- w!ereas t!e *oarser males grew angry, flung t!emselves down w!en tired, and from s!eer rage would die t!ere unne*essarily# After dar& we *rawled for t!ree !ours, rea*!ing t!e top of a sand-ridge# (!ere we slept t!an&fully, after a ad day of urning wind, dust li++ards, and drifting sand w!i*! stung our inflamed fa*es, and at times, in t!e greater gusts, wrapped t!e sig!t of our road from us and drove our *omplaining *amels up and down# %ut Auda was an3ious a out t!e morrow, for anot!er !ot !ead-wind would delay us a t!ird day in t!e desert, and we !ad no water left- so !e *alled us early in t!e nig!t, and we mar*!ed down into t!e plain of t!e %isaita Bso *alled in derision, for its !uge si+e and flatnessC, efore day ro&e# .ts fine surfa*e-litter of sun- rowned flints was restfully dar& after sunrise for our streaming eyes, ut !ot and !ard going for our *amels, some of w!i*! were already limping wit! sore feet# Camels roug!t up on t!e sandy plains of t!e Ara ian *oast !ad deli*ate pads to t!eir feet) and if su*! animals were ta&en suddenly inland for long mar*!es over flints or ot!er !eat-retaining ground, t!eir soles would urn, and at last *ra*& in a lister) leaving @ui*& fles!, two in*!es or more a*ross, in t!e *entre of t!e pad# .n t!is state t!ey *ould mar*! as ever over sand) ut if, y *!an*e, t!e foot *ame down on a pe le, t!ey would stum le, or flin*! as t!oug! t!ey !ad stepped on fire, and in a long mar*! mig!t rea& down altoget!er unless t!ey were very rave# So we rode *arefully, pi*&ing t!e softest way, Auda and myself in front# As we went, some little puffs of dust s*urried into t!e eye of t!e wind# Auda said t!ey were ostri*!es# A man ran up to us wit! two great ivory eggs# 'e settled to rea&fast on t!is ounty of t!e %isaita, and loo&ed for fuel) ut in twenty minutes found only a wisp of grass# (!e arren desert was defeating us# (!e aggage train passed, and my eye fell on t!e loads of lasting gelatine# 'e roa*!ed a pa*&et, s!redding it *arefully into a fire eneat! t!e egg propped on stones, till t!e *oo&ery was pronoun*ed *omplete# 0asir and 0esi , really interested, dismounted to s*off at us# Auda drew !is silver-!ilted dagger and *!ipped t!e top of t!e first egg# A stin& li&e a pestilen*e went a*ross our party# 'e fled to a *lean spot, rolling t!e se*ond egg !ot efore us wit! gentle &i*&s# .t was fres! enoug!, and !ard as a stone# 'e dug out its *ontents wit! t!e dagger on to t!e flint fla&es w!i*! were our platters, and ate it pie*emeal) persuading even 0asir, w!o in !is Me efore !ad never fallen so low as egg-meat, to ta&e !is s!are# (!e general verdi*t was- toug! and strong, ut good in t!e %isaita# Gaal saw an ory3) stal&ed it on foot, and &illed it# (!e etter >oints were tied upon t!e aggage *amels for t!e ne3t !alt, and our mar*! *ontinued# Afterwards t!e greedy $oweitat saw more ory3 in t!e distan*e and went after t!e easts, w!o foolis!ly ran a little) t!en stood still and stared till t!e men were near, and, too late, ran away again# (!eir w!ite s!ining ellies etrayed t!em) for, y t!e magnifi*ation of t!e mirage, t!ey win&ed ea*! move to us from afar#

&()PTE" .LI+
. was too weary, and too little sporting, to go out of t!e straig!t way for all t!e rare easts in t!e world) so . rode after t!e *aravan, w!i*! my *amel over!auled @ui*&ly wit! !er longer stride# At t!e tail of it were my men, wal&ing# (!ey feared t!at some of t!eir animals would e dead efore

evening, if t!e wind lew stronger, ut were leading t!em y !and in !ope of getting t!em in# . admired t!e *ontrast etween Mo!ammed t!e lusty, !eavy-footed peasant, and t!e lit!e Ageyl, wit! :arra> and Daud dan*ing along, arefooted, deli*ate as t!oroug! reds# 8nly Gasim was not t!eret!ey t!oug!t !im among t!e $oweitat, for !is surliness offended t!e laug!ing soldiery and &ept !im *ommonly wit! t!e %eduin, w!o were more of !is &idney# (!ere was no one e!ind, so . rode forward wis!ing to see !ow !is *amel was- and at last found it, riderless, eing led y one of t!e $oweitat# $is saddle- ags were on it, and !is rifle and !is food, ut !e !imself now!ere) gradually it dawned on us t!at t!e misera le man was lost# (!is was a dreadful usiness, for in t!e !a+e and mirage t!e *aravan *ould not e seen two miles, and on t!e iron ground it made no tra*&s- afoot !e would never overta&e us# 4veryone !ad mar*!ed on, t!in&ing !im elsew!ere in our loose line) ut mu*! time !ad passed and it was nearly midday, so !e must e miles a*&# $is loaded *amel was proof t!at !e !ad not een forgotten asleep at our nig!t !alt# (!e Ageyl ventured t!at per!aps !e !ad do+ed in t!e saddle and fallen, stunning or &illing !imself- or per!aps someone of t!e party !ad orne !im a grudge# Anyway t!ey did not &now# $e was an ill-natured stranger, no *!arge on any of t!em, and t!ey did not greatly *are# (rue- ut it was true also t!at Mo!ammed, !is *ountryman and fellow, w!o was te*!ni*ally !is road*ompanion, &new not!ing of t!e desert, !ad a foundered *amel, and *ould not turn a*& for !im# .f . sent !im, it would e murder# (!at s!ifted t!e diffi*ulty to my s!oulders# (!e $oweitat, w!o would !ave !elped, were away in t!e mirage out of sig!t, !unting or s*outing# . n Dg!eit!ir?s Ageyl were so *lannis! t!at t!ey would not put t!emselves a out e3*ept for one anot!er# %esides Gasim was my man- and upon me lay t!e responsi ility of !im# . loo&ed wea&ly at my trudging men, and wondered for a moment if . *ould *!ange wit! one, sending !im a*& on my *amel to t!e res*ue# My s!ir&ing t!e duty would e understood, e*ause . was a foreigner- ut t!at was pre*isely t!e plea . did not dare set up, w!ile . yet presumed to !elp t!ese Ara s in t!eir own revolt# .t was !ard, anyway, for a stranger to influen*e anot!er people?s national movement, and dou ly !ard for a C!ristian and a sedentary person to sway Moslem nomads# . s!ould ma&e it impossi le for myself if . *laimed, simultaneously, t!e privileges of ot! so*ieties# So, wit!out saying anyt!ing, . turned my unwilling *amel round, and for*ed !er, grunting and moaning for !er *amel friends, a*& past t!e long line of men, and past t!e aggage into t!e emptiness e!ind# My temper was very un!eroi*, for . was furious wit! my ot!er servants, wit! my own play-a*ting as a %eduin, and most of all wit! Gasim, a gap-toot!ed, grum ling fellow, s&rims!an& in all our mar*!es, ad-tempered, suspi*ious, rutal, a man w!ose engagement . regretted, and of w!om . !ad promised to rid myself as soon as we rea*!ed a dis*!arging-pla*e# .t seemed a surd t!at . s!ould peril my weig!t in t!e Ara adventure for a single wort!less man# My *amel seemed to feel it also, y !er deep grum ling) ut t!at was a *onstant re*ourse of ill-treated *amels# :rom *alf!ood t!ey were a**ustomed to live in droves, and some grew too *onventional to mar*! alone- w!ile none would leave t!eir !a itual party wit!out loud grief and unwillingness, su*! as mine was s!owing# S!e turned !er !ead a*& on !er long ne*&, lowing to t!e rest, and wal&ed very slowly, and oun*ingly# .t needed *areful guidan*e to !old !er on t!e road, and a tap from my sti*& at every pa*e to &eep !er moving# $owever, after a mile or two, s!e felt etter, and egan to go forward less *onstrainedly, ut still slowly# . !ad een noting our dire*tion all t!ese days wit! my oil *ompass, and !oped, y its aid, to return nearly to our starting pla*e, seventeen miles away# %efore twenty minutes, t!e *aravan was out of sig!t, and it was orne in on me !ow really arren t!e %isaita was# .ts only mar&s were t!e old sanded sam! pits, a*ross all possi le of w!i*! . rode, e*ause my *amel tra*&s would s!ow in t!em, and e so many la+es of t!e way a*&# (!is sam! was t!e wild flour of t!e S!erarat) w!o, poor in all ut *amel-sto*&s, made it a oast to find t!e desert suffi*ient for t!eir every need# '!en mi3ed wit! dates and loosened wit! utter, it was good food#

(!e pits, little t!res!ing floors, were made y pus!ing aside t!e flints over a *ir*le of ten feet a*ross# (!e flints, !eaped up round t!e rim of t!e pit, made it in*!es deep, and in t!is !ollow pla*e t!e women *olle*ted and eat out t!e small red seed# (!e *onstant winds, sweeping sin*e over t!em, *ould not indeed put a*& t!e flint surfa*e Bt!at would per!aps e done y t!e rain in t!ousands of wintersC, ut !ad levelled t!em up wit! pale lown sand, so t!at t!e pits were grey eyes in t!e la*& stony surfa*e# . !ad ridden a out an !our and a !alf, easily, for t!e following ree+e !ad let me wipe t!e *rust from my red eyes and loo& forward almost wit!out pain- w!en . saw a figure, or large us!, or at least somet!ing la*& a!ead of me# (!e s!ifting mirage disguised !eig!t or distan*e) ut t!is t!ing seemed moving, a little east of our *ourse# 8n *!an*e . turned my *amel?s !ead t!at way, and in a few minutes saw t!at it was Gasim# '!en . *alled !e stood *onfusedly) . rode up and saw t!at !e was nearly linded and silly, standing t!ere wit! !is arms !eld out to me, and !is la*& mout! gaping open# (!e Ageyl !ad put our last water in my s&in, and t!is !e spilled madly over !is fa*e and reast, in !aste to drin&# $e stopped a ling, and egan to wail out !is sorrows# . sat !im, pillion, on t!e *amel?s rump) t!en stirred !er up and mounted# At our turn t!e east seemed relieved, and moved forward freely# . set an e3a*t *ompass *ourse, so e3a*t t!at often . found our old tra*&s, as little spurts of paler sand s*attered over t!e rown- la*& flint# .n spite of our dou le weig!t t!e *amel egan to stride out, and at times s!e even put !er !ead down and for a few pa*es developed t!at fast and most *omforta le s!uffle to w!i*! t!e est animals, w!ile young, were ro&en y s&illed riders# (!is proof of reserve spirit in !er re>oi*ed me, as did t!e little time lost in sear*!# Gasim was moaning impressively a out t!e pain and terror of !is t!irst- . told !im to stop) ut !e went on, and egan to sit loosely) until at ea*! step of t!e *amel !e umped down on !er !inder @uarters wit! a *ras!, w!i*!, li&e !is *rying, spurred !er to greater pa*e# (!ere was danger in t!is, for we mig!t easily founder !er so# Again . told !im to stop, and w!en !e only s*reamed louder, !it !im and swore t!at for anot!er sound . would t!row !im off# (!e t!reat, to w!i*! my general rage gave *olour, wor&ed# After it !e *lung on grimly wit !out sound# 0ot four miles !ad passed w!en again . saw a la*& u le, lunging and swaying in t!e mirage a!ead# .t split into t!ree, and swelled# . wondered if t!ey were enemy# A minute later t!e !a+e unrolled wit! t!e dis*on*erting suddenness of illusion) and it was Auda wit! two of 0asir?s men *ome a*& to loo& for me# . yelled >ests and s*offs at t!em for a andoning a friend in t!e desert# Auda pulled !is eard and grum led t!at !ad !e een present . would never !ave gone a*&# Gasim was transferred wit! insults to a etter rider?s saddle-pad, and we am led forward toget!er# Auda pointed to t!e wret*!ed !un*!ed-up figure and denoun*ed me, ?:or t!at t!ing, not wort! a *amel?s pri*e # # #? . interrupted !im wit! ?0ot wort! a !alf-*rown, Auda?, and !e, delig!ted in !is simple mind, rode near Gasim, and stru*& !im s!arply, trying to ma&e !im repeat, li&e a parrot, !is pri*e# Gasim ared !is ro&en teet! in a grin of rage and afterwards sul&ed on# .n anot!er !our we were on t!e !eels of t!e aggage *amels, and as we passed up t!e in@uisitive line of our *aravan, Auda repeated my >o&e to ea*! pair, per!aps forty times in all, till . !ad seen to t!e full its fee leness# Gasim e3plained t!at !e !ad dismounted to ease nature, and !ad missed t!e party afterwards in t!e dar&- ut, o viously, !e !ad gone to sleep, w!ere !e dismounted, wit! t!e fatigue of our slow, !ot >ourneying# 'e re>oined 0asir and 0esi in t!e van# 0esi was ve3ed wit! me, for perilling t!e lives of Auda and myself on a w!im# .t was *lear to !im t!at . re*&oned t!ey would *ome a*& for me# 0asir was s!o*&ed at !is ungenerous outloo&, and Auda was glad to ru into a townsman t!e parado3 of tri e and *ity) t!e *olle*tive responsi ility and group- rot!er!ood of t!e desert, *ontrasted wit! t!e isolation and *ompetitive living of t!e *rowded distri*ts# 8ver t!is little affair !ours !ad passed, and t!e rest of t!e day seemed not so long) t!oug! t!e !eat e*ame worse, and t!e sand last stiffened in our fa*es till t!e air *ould e seen and !eard, w!istling past our *amels li&e smo&e# (!e ground was flat and featureless till five o?*lo*&, w!en we saw low

mounds a!ead, and a little later found ourselves in *omparative pea*e, amid sand-!ills *oated slenderly wit! tamaris&# (!ese were t!e ;aseim of Sir!an# (!e us!es and t!e dunes ro&e t!e wind, it was sunset, and t!e evening mellowed and reddened on us from t!e west# So . wrote in my diary t!at Sir!an was eautiful# ,alestine e*ame a land of mil& and !oney to t!ose w!o !ad spent forty years in Sinai- Damas*us !ad t!e name of an eart!ly paradise to t!e tri es w!i*! *ould enter it only after wee&s and wee&s of painful mar*!ing a*ross t!e flint-stones of t!is nort!ern desert- and li&ewise t!e ;aseim of Arfa>a in w!i*! we spent t!at nig!t, after five days a*ross t!e la+ing $oul in t!e teet! of a sand-storm, loo&ed fres! and *ountryfied# (!ey were raised only a few feet a ove t!e %isaita, and from t!em valleys seemed to run down towards t!e east into a !uge depression w!ere lay t!e well we wanted- ut now t!at we !ad *rossed t!e desert and rea*!ed t!e Sir!an safely, t!e terror of t!irst !ad passed and we &new fatigue to e our *!ief ill# So we agreed to *amp for t!e nig!t w!ere we were, and to ma&e ea*on fires for t!e slave of 0uri S!aalan, w!o, li&e Gasim, !ad disappeared from our *aravan to-day# 'e were not greatly pertur ed a out !im# $e &new t!e *ountry and !is *amel was under !im# .t mig!t e t!at !e !ad intentionally ta&en t!e dire*t way to /auf, 0uri?s *apital, to earn t!e reward of first news t!at we *ame wit! gifts# $owever it was, !e did not *ome t!at nig!t, nor ne3t day) and w!en, mont!s after, . as&ed 0uri of !im, !e replied t!at !is dried ody !ad lately een found, lying eside !is unplundered *amel far out in t!e wilderness# $e must !ave lost !imself in t!e sand-!a+e and wandered till !is *amel ro&e down) and t!ere died of t!irst and !eat# 0ot a long deat!--even for t!e very strongest a se*ond day in summer was all-- ut very painful) for t!irst was an a*tive malady) a fear and pani* w!i*! tore at t!e rain and redu*ed t!e ravest man to a stum ling a ling mania* in an !our or two- and t!en t!e sun &illed !im#

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$aving not a mout!ful of water we of *ourse ate not!ing- w!i*! made it a *ontinent nig!t# 1et t!e *ertainty of drin& on t!e morrow let us sleep easily, lying on our ellies to prevent t!e inflation of foodlessness# Ara !a it was to fill t!emselves to vomiting point at ea*! well, and eit!er to go dry to t!e ne3t) or, if t!ey *arried water, to use it lavis!ly at t!e first !alt, drin&ing and read-ma&ing# As my am ition was to avoid *omment upon my differen*e, . *opied t!em, trusting wit! reason t!at t!eir p!ysi*al superiority was not great enoug! to trap me into serious !arm# A*tually . only on*e went ill wit! t!irst# 0e3t morning we rode down slopes, over a first ridge, and a se*ond, and a t!ird) ea*! t!ree miles from t!e ot!er) till at eig!t o?*lo*& we dismounted y t!e wells of Arfa>a, t!e sweet-smelling us! so *alled eing fragrant all a out us# 'e found t!e Sir!an not a valley, ut a long fault draining t!e *ountry on ea*! side of it and *olle*ting t!e waters into t!e su**essive depressions of its ed# (!e ground surfa*e was of flinty gravel, alternating wit! soft sand) and t!e aimless valleys seemed !ardly a le to tra*e t!eir slow and involved levels etween t!e loose sand-dunes, over w!i*! lew t!e feat!ery tamaris&) its w!ip*ord roots inding t!e slopes toget!er# (!e unlined wells were dug a out eig!teen feet, to water *reamy to t!e tou*! wit! a powerful smell and ra*&is! taste# 'e found it deli*ious, and sin*e t!ere was greenstuff a out, good for *amel food, de*ided to stay !ere t!e day w!ile we sear*!ed for t!e $oweitat y sending to Maigua, t!e sout!ernmost well of Sir!an# So we s!ould esta lis! w!et!er t!ey were e!ind us) and if t!ey were not, *ould mar*! towards t!e nort! wit! *onfiden*e t!at we were on t!eir tra*&# $ardly, !owever, !ad our messenger ridden off w!en one of t!e $oweitat saw riders !iding in t!e s*ru to t!e nort!ward of us# .nstantly t!ey *alled to arms# Mo!ammed el D!eilan, first into t!e saddle, wit! ot!er (owei!a galloped out against t!e supposed enemy) 0asir and . mustered t!e Ageyl Bw!ose virtue lay not in fig!ting %eduin-fas!ion wit! %eduinsC and pla*ed t!em in sets a out t!e dunes so as reasona ly to defend t!e aggage# $owever, t!e enemy got off# Mo!ammed returned after !alf an !our to say t!at

!e !ad not made relentless pursuit for pity of t!e *ondition of !is *amel# $e !ad seen only t!ree tra*&s and supposed t!at t!e men !ad een s*outs of a S!ammar raiding party in t!e neig! our!ood, Arfa>a eing *ommonly infested y t!em# Auda *alled up Gaal, !is nep!ew, t!e &eenest eye of all t!e $oweitat, and told !im to go out and dis*over t!e enemy?s num er and intention# Gaal was a lit!e metalli* man, wit! a old appraising loo&, *ruel lips, and a t!in laug!, full of t!e rutality w!i*! t!ese nomad $oweitat !ad *aug!t from t!e peasantry# $e went off and sear*!ed) ut found t!e t!i*&et of rus!wood a out us full of tra*&s) w!ile t!e tamaris& &ept t!e wind of f t!e sandy floor, and made it impossi le to distinguis! parti*ularly t!e footprints of to-day# (!e afternoon passed pea*efully, and we lulled ourselves, t!oug! we &ept a sentry on t!e !ead of t!e great dune e!ind t!e water-!oles# At sunset . went down and was!ed myself in t!e smarting rine) and on my way a*& !alted at t!e Ageyl fire to ta&e *offee wit! t!em, w!ile listening to t!eir 0e>di Ara i*# (!ey egan to tell me long stories of Captain S!a&espear, w!o !ad een re*eived y i n Saud in "iyad! as a personal friend, and !ad *rossed Ara ia from t!e ,ersian Gulf to 4gypt) and een at last &illed in attle y t!e S!ammar in a set- a*& w!i*! t!e *!ampions of 0e>d !ad suffered during one of t!eir periodi* wars# Many of t!e Ageyl of i n Dg!eit!ir !ad travelled wit! !im, as es*ort or followers, and !ad tales of !is magnifi*en*e and of t!e strange se*lusion in w!i*! !e &ept !imself day and nig!t# (!e Ara s, w!o usually lived in !eaps, suspe*ted some ulterior reason for any too *areful priva*y# (o remem er t!is, and to foreswear all selfis! pea*e and @uiet w!ile wandering wit! t!em, was one of t!e least pleasant lessons of t!e desert war- and !umiliating, too, for it was a part of pride wit! 4nglis!men to !ug solitude) ourselves finding ourselves to e remar&a le, w!en t!ere was no *ompetition present# '!ile we tal&ed t!e roasted *offee was dropped wit! t!ree grains of *ardamom into t!e mortar# A dulla rayed it) wit! t!e dring-drang, dring-drang pestle stro&es of village 0e>d, two e@ual pairs of legato eats# Mo!ammed el D!eilan !eard, *ame silently a*ross t!e sand and san& down, slowly, groaningly, *amel-li&e, on t!e ground y me# Mo!ammed was a *ompaniona le fellow) a powerful, t!in&ing man wit! mu*! wry !umour, and an affe*tion of sour *raft, sometimes >ustified y !is a*ts, ut generally dis*losing a friendly *yni*al nature# .n uild !e was unusually strong and well-grown, not mu*! under si3 feet in !eig!t) a man of per!aps t!irty-eig!t, determined and a*tive, wit! a !ig!*oloured fa*e ruggedly lined, and very affling eyes# $e was se*ond man of t!e A u (ayi) ri*!er and !aving more followers t!an Auda, and wit! more taste for t!e lus*ious# $e !ad a little !ouse in Maan, landed property Band it was w!ispered, ?*attle?C near (afile!# 9nder !is influen*e t!e war parties of t!e A u (ayi rode out deli*ately, wit! suns!ades to defend t!em from t!e fier*e rays of t!e sun and wit! ottles of mineral water in t!eir saddle- ags as refres!ment upon t!e >ourney# $e was t!e rain of t!e tri al *oun*ils and dire*ted t!eir politi*s# $is sore-!eaded *riti*al spirit pleased me) and often . used !is intelligen*e and greed to *onvert !im to my party efore roa*!ing a new idea# (!e long ride in *ompany !ad made *ompanions of our minds and odies# (!e !a+ardous goal was in our t!oug!ts, day and nig!t) *ons*iously and un*ons*iously we were training ourselves) redu*ing our wills to t!e single purpose w!i*! oftenest engrossed t!ese odd moments of tal& a out an evening fire# And we were so musing w!ile t!e *offee-ma&er oiled up !is *offee, tapped it down again, made a palm-fi re mat to strain it efore !e poured Bgrounds in t!e *up were evil mannersC, w!en t!ere *ame a volley from t!e s!adowy dunes east of us and one of t!e Ageyl toppled forward into t!e *entre of t!e firelit *ir*le wit! a s*ree*!# Mo!ammed wit! !is massive foot t!rust a wave of sand over t!e fire and in t!e @ui*& linding dar&ness we rolled e!ind an&s of tamaris& and s*attered to get rifles, w!ile our outlying pi*&ets egan to return t!e fire, aiming !urriedly towards t!e flas!es# 'e !ad unlimited ammunition in our !and, and did not stint to s!ow it# Gradually t!e enemy sla*&ened, astonis!ed per!aps at our preparedness# :inally !is fire stopped, and

we !eld our own, listening for a rus! or for atta*& from a new @uarter# :or !alf an !our we lay still) and silent, ut for t!e groans, and at last t!e deat! struggle of t!e man !it wit! t!e first volley# (!en we were impatient of waiting longer# Gaal went out to report w!at was !appening to t!e enemy# After anot!er !alf-!our !e *alled to us t!at no one was left wit!in rea*!# (!ey !ad ridden away- a out twenty of t!em, in !is trained opinion# Despite Gaal?s assuran*es, we passed a restless nig!t, and in t!e morning efore dawn we uried Assaf, our first *asualty, and moved off nort!ward, &eeping t!e ottom of t!e !ollow, wit! t!e sand!ills mostly on our left# 'e rode for five !ours and t!en !alted for rea&fast on t!e sout! an& of a great spill of torrent- eds running down into t!e Sir!an from t!e sout!-west# Auda told me t!ese were t!e mout!s of Seil :e>r, t!e valley w!ose !ead we !ad seen at Sel!u and w!ose ed we !ad followed rig!t a*ross t!e $oul# (!e gra+ing was etter t!an at Arfa>a, and we allowed our *amels t!e four !ours of noon to fill t!emselves--a poor pro*eeding, for t!e midday gra+ing was not profita le to t!em, t!oug! we en>oyed ourselves in t!e s!adow of our lan&ets, sleeping out t!e sleep we !ad missed t!e nig!t efore# $ere in t!e open, away from all possi ility of !idden approa*!, was no fear of distur an*e, and our displayed strengt! and *onfiden*e mig!t dissuade t!e invisi le enemy# 8ur desire was to fig!t (ur&s, and t!is inter-Ara usiness was s!eer waste# .n t!e afternoon we rode on twelve miles to a s!arp group of firm sand-!ills, en*losing an open spa*e ig enoug! for us, and *ommanding t!e *ountry round a out# 'e !alted t!ere, in anti*ipation of anot!er nig!t atta*&# 0e3t morning we did a fast mar*! of five !ours Bour *amels eing full of life after t!eir ease of yesterdayC to an oasis-!ollow of stunted palm-trees, wit! tamaris& *lumps !ere and t!ere, and plentiful water, a out seven feet underground, tasting sweeter t!an t!e water of Arfa>a# 1et t!is also upon e3perien*e proved ?Sir!an water?, t!e first drin& of w!i*! was tolera le, ut w!i*! refused a lat!er to soap, and developed Bafter two days in *losed vesselsC a foul smell and a taste destru*tive to t!e intended flavour of *offee, tea, or read# <erily we were tiring of 'adi Sir!an, t!oug! 0esi and Ge&i still designed wor&s of plantation and re*lamation !ere for t!e Ara Government w!en y t!em esta lis!ed# Su*! vaulting imagination was typi*al of Syrians, w!o easily persuaded t!emselves of possi ilities, and as @ui*&ly rea*!ed forward to lay t!eir present responsi ilities on ot!ers# ?Ge&i,? said . one day, ?your *amel is full of mange#? ?Alas, and ala*&,? agreed !e mournfully, ?in t!e evening, very @ui*&ly, w!en t!e sun is low, we s!all dress !er s&in wit! ointment#? During our ne3t ride, . mentioned mange on*e more# ?A!a,? said Ge&i, ?it !as given me a full idea# Con*eive t!e esta lis!ment of a <eterinary Department of State, for Syria, w!en Damas*us is ours# 'e s!all !ave a staff of s&illed surgeons, wit! a s*!ool of pro ationers and students, in a *entral !ospital, or rat!er *entral !ospitals, for *amels and for !orses, and for don&eys and *attle, even Bw!y notJC for s!eep and goats# (!ere must e s*ientifi* and a*teriologi*al ran*!es to ma&e resear*!es into universal *ures for animal disease# And w!at a out a li rary of foreign oo&sJ # # # and distri*t !ospitals to feed t!e *entral, and travelling inspe*tors# # # #? 'it! 0esi ?s eager *olla oration !e *arved Syria into four inspe*torates general, and many su -inspe*torates# Again on t!e morrow t!ere was mention of mange# (!ey !ad slept on t!eir la our, and t!e s*!eme was rounding out# ?1et, my dear, it is imperfe*t) and our nature stops not s!ort of perfe*tion# 'e grieve to see you t!us satisfied to snat*! t!e merely opportune# .t is an 4nglis! fault#? . dropped into t!eir vein# ?8 0esi ,? said ., ?and 8 Ge&i, will not perfe*tion, even in t!e least of t!ings, entail t!e ending of t!is worldJ Are we ripe for t!atJ '!en . am angry . pray God to swing our glo e into t!e fiery sun, and prevent t!e sorrows of t!e not-yet- orn- ut w!en . am *ontent, . want to lie for ever in t!e s!ade, till . e*ome a s!ade myself#? 9neasily t!ey s!ifted t!e tal& to stud farms, and on t!e si3t! day t!e poor *amel died# <ery truly, ?%e*ause?, as Ge&i pointed out, ?you did not dress !er?# Auda, 0asir, and t!e rest of us &ept our easts going y *onstant *are# 'e *ould, per!aps, >ust stave t!e mange off till we s!ould rea*! t!e *amp of some well-provided tri e, and e a le to pro*ure medi*ines, wit! w!i*! to *om at t!e disease w!ole-!eartedly#

A mounted man *ame earing down upon us# (ension t!ere was, for a moment) ut t!en t!e $oweitat !ailed !im# $e was one of t!eir !erdsmen, and greetings were e3*!anged in an un!urried voi*e, as was proper in t!e desert, w!ere noise was a low- red usiness at t!e est, and ur an at its worst# $e told us t!e $oweitat were *amped in front, from .sawiya to 0e &, an3iously waiting our news# All was well wit! t!eir tents# Auda?s an3iety passed and !is eagerness &indled# 'e rode fast for an !our to .sawiya and t!e tents of Ali a u :itna, *!ief of one of Auda?s *lans# 8ld A!?, r!eumy-eyed, red and un&empt, into w!ose >utting eard a long nose perpetually dripped, greeted us warmly and urged us to t!e !ospitality of !is tent# 'e e3*used ourselves as too many, and *amped near y under some t!orns, w!ile !e and t!e ot!er tent-!olders made estimate of our num ers, and prepared feasts for us in t!e evening, to ea*! group of tents its little at*! of visitors# (!e meal too& !ours to produ*e, and it was long after dar& w!en t!ey *alled us to it# . wo&e and stum led a*ross, ate, made my way a*& to our *ou*!ed *amels and slept again# 8ur mar*! was prosperously over# 'e !ad found t!e $oweitat- our men were in e3*ellent fettle- we !ad our gold and our e3plosives still inta*t# So we drew !appily toget!er in t!e morning to a solemn *oun*il on a*tion# (!ere was agreement t!at first we s!ould present si3 t!ousand pounds to 0uri S!aalan, y w!ose sufferan*e we were in Sir!an# 'e wanted from !im li erty to stay w!ile enrolling and preparing our fig!ting men) and w!en we moved off we wanted !im to loo& after t!eir families and tents and !erds# (!ese were great matters# .t was determined t!at Auda !imself s!ould ride to 0uri on em assy, e*ause t!ey were friends# 0uri?s was too near and too ig a tri e for Auda to fig!t, !owever lordly !is delig!t in war# Self-interest, a**ordingly, !ad prompted t!e two great men to an allian*e- and a*@uaintan*e !ad red a w!imsi*al regard, y virtue of w!i*! ea*! suffered t!e ot!er?s oddities wit! patien*e# Auda would e3plain to 0uri w!at we !oped to do, and :eisal?s desire t!at !e ma&e a pu li* demonstration of ad!eren*e to (ur&ey# 8nly so *ould !e *over us, w!ile still pleasing t!e (ur&s#

&()PTE" .L+I
Meanw!ile we would stay wit! Ali a u :itna, moving gently nort!ward wit! !im towards 0e &, w!ere Auda would tell all t!e A u (ayi to *olle*t# $e would e a*& from 0uri efore t!ey were united# (!is was t!e usiness, and we laded si3 ags of gold into Auda?s saddle- ags, and off !e went# Afterwards t!e *!iefs of t!e :itenna waited on us, and said t!at t!ey were !onoured to feast us twi*e a day, forenoon and sunset, so long as we remained wit! t!em) and t!ey meant w!at t!ey said# $oweita t !ospitality was unlimited--no t!ree-day niggardliness for t!em of t!e nominal desert law--and importunate, and left us no !onoura le es*ape from t!e entirety of t!e nomad?s dream of well- eing# 4a*! morning, etween eig!t and ten, a little group of lood mares under an assortment of imperfe*t saddlery would *ome to our *amping pla*e, and on t!em 0asir, 0esi , Ge&i and . would mount, and wit! per!aps a do+en of our men on foot would move solemnly a*ross t!e valley y t!e sandy pat!s etween t!e us!es# 8ur !orses were led y our servants, sin*e it would e immodest to ride free or fast# So eventually we would rea*! t!e tent w!i*! was to e our feast-!all for t!at time) ea*! family *laiming us in turn, and itterly offended if Gaal, t!e ad>udi*ator, preferred one out of >ust order# As we arrived, t!e dogs would rus! out at us, and e driven off y onloo&ers--always a *rowd !ad *olle*ted round t!e *!osen tent--and we stepped in under t!e ropes to its guest !alf, made very large for t!e o**asion and *arefully dressed wit! its wall-*urtain on t!e sunny side to give us t!e s!ade# (!e as!ful !ost would murmur and vanis! again out of sig!t# (!e tri al rugs, lurid red t!ings from %eyrout, were ready for us, arranged down t!e partition *urtain, along t!e a*& wall and a*ross t!e dropped end, so t!at we sat down on t!ree sides of anopen dusty spa*e# 'e mig!t e fifty men in all# (!e !ost would reappear, standing y t!e pole) our lo*al fellow-guests, el D!eilan, Gaal and ot!er s!ei&!s, relu*tantly let t!emselves e pla*ed on t!e rugs etween us, s!aring our el ow-room on t!e pa*&-saddles, padded wit! folded felt rugs, over w!i*! we leaned# (!e front of t!e tent was *leared, and t!e dogs were fre@uently *!ased away y e3*ited *!ildren, w!o ran a*ross t!e empty spa*e

pulling yet smaller *!ildren after t!em# (!eir *lot!es were less as t!eir years were less, and t!eir potodies rounder# (!e smallest infants of all, out of t!eir fly- la*& eyes, would stare at t!e *ompany, gravely alan*ed on spread legs, star&-na&ed, su*&ing t!eir t!um s and pus!ing out e3pe*tant ellies towards us# (!en would follow an aw&ward pause, w!i*! our friends would try to *over, y s!owing us on its per*! t!e !ouse!old !aw& Bw!en possi le a sea- ird ta&en young on t!e "ed Sea *oastC or t!eir wat*!-*o*&erel, or t!eir grey!ound# 8n*e a tame i e3 was dragged in for our admiration- anot!er time an ory3# '!en t!ese interests were e3!austed t!ey would try and find a small tal& to distra*t us from t!e !ouse!old noises, and from noti*ing t!e urgent w!ispered *oo&ery-dire*tions wafted t!roug! t!e dividing *urtain wit! a powerful smell of oiled fat and drifts of tasty meat-smo&e# After a silen*e t!e !ost or a deputy would *ome forward and w!isper, ?%la*& or w!iteJ? an invitation for us to *!oose *offee or tea# 0asir would always answer ?%la*&?, and t!e slave would e e*&oned forward wit! t!e ea&ed *offee-pot in one !and, and t!ree or four *lin&ing *ups of w!ite ware in t!e ot!er# $e would das! a few drops of *offee into t!e uppermost *up, and proffer it to 0asir) t!en pour t!e se*ond for me, and t!e t!ird for 0esi ) and pause w!ile we turned t!e *ups a out in our !ands, and su*&ed t!em *arefully, to get appre*iatively from t!em t!e last ri*!est drop# As soon as t!ey were empty !is !and was stret*!ed to *lap t!em noisily one a ove t!e ot!er, and toss t!em out wit! a lesser flouris! for t!e ne3t guest in order, and so on round t!e assem ly till all !ad drun&# (!en a*& to 0asir again# (!is se*ond *up would e tastier t!an t!e first, partly e*ause t!e pot was yielding deeper from t!e rew, partly e*ause of t!e !eel-taps of so many previous drin&ers present in t!e *ups) w!ilst t!e t!ird and fourt! rounds, if t!e serving of t!e meat delayed so long, would e of surprising flavour# $owever, at last, two men *ame staggering t!roug! t!e t!rilled *rowd, *arrying t!e ri*e and meat on a tinned *opper tray or s!allow at!, five feet a*ross, set li&e a great ra+ier on a foot# .n t!e tri e t!ere was only t!is one food- owl of t!e si+e, and an in*ised ins*ription ran round it in florid Ara i* *!ara*ters- ?(o t!e glory of God, and in trust of mer*y at t!e last, t!e property of $is poor suppliant, Auda a u (ayi#? .t was orrowed y t!e !ost w!o was to entertain us for t!e time) and, sin*e my urgent rain and ody made me wa&eful, from my lan&ets in t!e first lig!t . would see t!e dis! going a*ross *ountry, and y mar&ing down its goal would &now w!ere we were to feed t!at day# (!e owl was now rim-full, ringed round its edge y w!ite ri*e in an em an&ment a foot wide and si3 in*!es deep, filled wit! legs and ri s of mutton till t!ey toppled over# .t needed two or t!ree vi*tims to ma&e in t!e *entre a dressed pyramid of meat su*! as !onour pres*ri ed# (!e *entre-pie*es were t!e oiled, upturned !eads, propped on t!eir severed stumps of ne*&, so t!at t!e ears, rown li&e old leaves, flapped out on t!e ri*e surfa*e# (!e >aws gaped emptily upward, pulled open to s!ow t!e !ollow t!roat wit! t!e tongue, still pin&, *linging to t!e lower teet!) and t!e long in*isors w!itely *rowned t!e pile, very prominent a ove t!e nostrils? pri*&ing !air and t!e lips w!i*! sneered away la*&ly from t!em# (!is load was set down on t!e soil of t!e *leared spa*e etween us, w!ere it steamed !otly, w!ile a pro*ession of minor !elpers ore small *auldrons and *opper vats in w!i*! t!e *oo&ing !ad een done# :rom t!em, wit! mu*!- ruised owls of enamelled iron, t!ey ladled out over t!e main dis! all t!e inside and outside of t!e s!eep) little its of yellow intestine, t!e w!ite tail-*us!ion of fat, rown mus*les and meat and ristly s&in, all swimming in t!e li@uid utter and grease of t!e seet!ing# (!e ystanders wat*!ed an3iously, muttering satisfa*tions w!en a very >ui*y s*rap plopped out# (!e fat was s*alding# 4very now and t!en a man would drop !is aler wit! an e3*lamation, and plunge !is urnt fingers, not relu*tantly, in !is mout! to *ool t!em- ut t!ey persevered till at last t!eir s*ooping rang loudly on t!e ottoms of t!e pots) and, wit! a gesture of triump!, t!ey fis!ed out t!e inta*t livers from t!eir !iding pla*e in t!e gravy and topped t!e yawning >aws wit! t!em# (wo raised ea*! smaller *auldron and tilted it, letting t!e li@uid splas! down upon t!e meat till t!e ri*e-*rater was full, and t!e loose grains at t!e edge swam in t!e a undan*e- and yet t!ey poured, till,

amid *ries of astonis!ment from us, it was running over, and a little pool *ongealing in t!e dust# (!at was t!e final tou*! of splendour, and t!e !ost *alled us to *ome and eat# 'e feigned a deafness, as manners demanded- at last we !eard !im, and loo&ed surprised at one anot!er, ea*! urging !is fellow to move first) till 0asir rose *oyly, and after rum we all *ame forward to sin& on one &nee round t!e tray, wedging in and *uddling up till t!e twenty-two for w!om t!ere was arely spa*e were grouped around t!e food# 'e turned a*& our rig!t sleeves to t!e el ow, and, ta&ing lead from 0asir wit! a low ?.n t!e name of God t!e mer*iful, t!e loving-&ind?, we dipped toget!er# (!e first dip, for me, at least, was always *autious, sin*e t!e li@uid fat was so !ot t!at my una**ustomed fingers *ould seldom ear it- and so . would toy wit! an e3posed and *ooling lump of meat till ot!ers? e3*avations !ad drained my ri*e-segment# 'e would &nead etween t!e fingers Bnot soiling t!e palmC, neat alls of ri*e and fat and liver and meat *emented y gentle pressure, and pro>e*t t!em y leverage of t!e t!um from t!e *roo&ed fore-finger into t!e mout!# 'it! t!e rig!t tri*& and t!e rig!t *onstru*tion t!e little lump !eld toget!er and *ame *lean off t!e !and) ut w!en surplus utter and odd fragments *lung, *ooling, to t!e fingers, t!ey !ad to e li*&ed *arefully to ma&e t!e ne3t effort slip easier away# As t!e meat pile wore down Bno ody really *ared a out ri*e- fles! was t!e lu3uryC one of t!e *!ief $oweitat eating wit! us would draw !is dagger, silver !ilted, set wit! tur@uoise, a signed masterpie*e of Mo!ammed i n Gari, of /auf, and would *ut *riss-*ross from t!e larger ones long diamonds of meat easily torn up etween t!e fingers) for it was ne*essarily oiled very tender, sin*e all !ad to e disposed of wit! t!e rig!t !and w!i*! alone was !onoura le# 8ur !ost stood y t!e *ir*le, en*ouraging t!e appetite wit! pious e>a*ulations# At top speed we twisted, tore, *ut and stuffed- never spea&ing, sin*e *onversation would insult a meal?s @uality) t!oug! it was proper to smile t!an&s w!en an intimate guest passed a sele*t fragment, or w!en Mo!ammed el D!eilan gravely !anded over a !uge arren one wit! a lessing# 8n su*! o**asions . would return t!e *ompliment wit! some !ideous impossi le lump of guts, a flippan*y w!i*! re>oi*ed t!e $oweitat, ut w!i*! t!e gra*ious, aristo*rati* 0asir saw wit! disapproval# At lengt! some of us were nearly filled, and egan to play and pi*&) glan*ing sideways at t!e rest till t!ey too grew slow, and at last *eased eating, el ow on &nee, t!e !and !anging down from t!e wrist over t!e tray edge to drip, w!ile t!e fat, utter and s*attered grains of ri*e *ooled into a stiff w!ite grease w!i*! gummed t!e fingers toget!er# '!en all !ad stopped, 0asir meaningly *leared !is t!roat, and we rose up toget!er in !aste wit! an e3plosive ?God re@uite it you, 8 !ost?, to group ourselves outside among t!e tent-ropes w!ile t!e ne3t twenty guests in!erited our leaving# (!ose of us w!o were ni*e would go to t!e end of t!e tent w!ere t!e flap of t!e roof-*lot!, eyond t!e last poles, drooped down as an end *urtain) and on t!is *lan !and&er*!ief Bw!ose *oarse goat-!air mes! was pliant and glossy wit! mu*! useC would s*rape t!e t!i*&est of t!e fat from t!e !ands# (!en we would ma&e a*& to our seats, and re-ta&e t!em sig!ingly) w!ile t!e slaves, leaving aside t!eir portion, t!e s&ulls of t!e s!eep, would *ome round our ran& wit! a wooden owl of water, and a *offee-*up as dipper, to splas! over our fingers, w!ile we ru ed t!em wit! t!e tri al soap-*a&e# Meantime t!e se*ond and t!ird sittings y t!e dis! were !aving t!eir turn, and t!en t!ere would e one more *up of *offee, or a glass of syrup-li&e tea) and at last t!e !orses would e roug!t and we would slip out to t!em, and mount, wit! a @uiet lessing to t!e !osts as we passed y# '!en our a*&s were turned t!e *!ildren would run in disorder upon t!e ravaged dis!, tear our gnawed ones from one anot!er, and es*ape into t!e open wit! valua le fragments to e devoured in se*urity e!ind some distant us!- w!ile t!e wat*!dogs of all t!e *amp prowled round snapping, and t!e master of t!e tent fed t!e *!oi*est offal to !is grey!ound#

&()PTE" .L+II
'e feasted on t!e first day on*e, on t!e se*ond twi*e, on t!e t!ird twi*e) at .sawiya- and t!en, on May t!e t!irtiet!, we saddled and rode easily for t!ree !ours, past an old sanded lava-field to a valley in w!i*! seven-foot wells of t!e usual ra*&is! water lay all a out us# (!e A u (ayi stru*& *amp w!en we stru*&, and >ourneyed at our side, and *amped around us- so to-day for t!e first time . was spe*tator from t!e midst of an Ara tri e, and a*tor in t!e routine of its mar*!# .t was strangely unli&e t!e usual desert-*onstan*y# All day t!e grey-green e3panse of stones and us!es @uivered li&e a mirage wit! t!e movement of men on foot) and !orsemen) men on *amels) *amels earing t!e !un*!ed la*& loads w!i*! were t!e goat-!air tent-*lot!s) *amels swaying *uriously, li&e utterflies, under t!e winged and fringed !owda!s of t!e women) *amels tus&ed li&e mammot!s or tailed li&e irds wit! t!e *o*&ed or dragging tent-poles of silvery poplar# (!ere was no order nor *ontrol nor routine of mar*!, ot!er t!an t!e wide front, t!e self-*ontained parties, t!e simultaneous start, w!i*! t!e inse*urity of *ountless generations !ad made instin*tive# (!e differen*e was t!at t!e desert, w!ose daily sparseness gave value to every man, to-day seemed wit! t!eir num ers suddenly to *ome alive# (!e pa*e was easy) and we, w!o !ad een guarding our own lives for wee&s, found it a rela3ation eyond feeling to &now ourselves so es*orted as to s!are t!e lig!t lia ility of danger wit! a !ost# 4ven our most solemn riders let t!emselves go a little, and t!e wilder ones e*ame li*entious# :irst amongst t!ese, of *ourse, were :arra> and Daud, my two imps, w!ose spirits not all t!e privations of our road !ad @uelled for a moment# A out t!eir riding pla*es in our line of mar*! *entred two *onstant swirls of a*tivity or of a**ident, a**ording as t!eir @uen*!less mis*!ief found a furt!er e3pression# 8n my dry patien*e t!ey grated a little, e*ause t!e plague of sna&es w!i*! !ad een wit! us sin*e our first entry into Sir!an today rose to memora le !eig!t, and e*ame a terror# .n ordinary times, so t!e Ara s said, sna&es were little worse !ere t!an elsew!ere y water in t!e desert- ut t!is year t!e valley seemed *reeping wit! !orned vipers and puff-adders, *o ras and la*& sna&es# %y nig!t movement was dangerous- and at last we found it ne*essary to wal& wit! sti*&s, eating t!e us!es ea*! side w!ile we stepped warily t!roug! on are feet# 'e *ould not lig!tly draw water after dar&, for t!ere were sna&es swimming in t!e pools or *lustering in &nots around t!eir rin&s# (wi*e puff-adders *ame twisting into t!e alert ring of our de ating *offee-*ir*le# (!ree of our men died of ites) four re*overed after great fear and pain, and a swelling of t!e poisoned lim # $oweitat treatment was to ind up t!e part wit! sna&e-s&in plaster, and read *!apters of t!e ;oran to t!e sufferer until !e died# (!ey also pulled t!i*& Damas*ene an&le- oots, red, wit! lue tassels and !orse-s!oe !eels, over t!eir !orny feet w!en t!ey went late a road# A strange? t!ing was t!e sna&es? !a it, at nig!t, of lying eside us, pro a ly for warmt!, under or on t!e lan&et# '!en we learned t!is our rising was wit! infinite *are, and t!e first up would sear*! round !is fellows wit! a sti*& till !e *ould pronoun*e t!em unen*um ered# 8ur party of fifty men &illed per!aps twenty sna&es daily) at last t!ey got so on our nerves t!at t!e oldest of us feared to tou*! ground) w!ile t!ose w!o, li&e myself, !ad a s!uddering !orror of all reptiles longed t!at our stay in Sir!an mig!t end# 0ot so :arra> and Daud# (o t!em, t!is was a new and splendid game# (!ey trou led us *ontinually wit! alarms, and furious eatings upon t!e !ead of every !armless twig or root w!i*! *aug!t t!eir fan*y# At last, in our noon-!alt, . *!arged t!em stri*tly not to let t!e *ry of sna&e again pass t!eir lips aloud) and t!en, sitting y our traps upon t!e sand, we !ad pea*e# (o live on t!e floor, w!en*e it was so far to arise and wal&, disposed to ina*tion, and t!ere was mu*! to t!in& a out so t!at it may !ave een an !our afterwards efore . noti*ed t!e offending pair smiling and nudging one anot!er# My eyes idly followed t!eir eyes to t!e neig! ouring us! under w!i*! a rown sna&e lay *oiled, glittering at me# Hui*&ly . moved myself, and *ried to Ali, w!o >umped in wit! !is riding-*ane and settled it# . told !im to give t!e two oys a swinging !alf-do+en ea*!, to tea*! t!em not again to e literal at my

e3pense# 0asir, slum ering e!ind me, !eard and wit! >oy s!outed to add si3 from !imself# 0esi *opied !im, and t!en Ge&i, and t!en i n Dg!eit!ir, till !alf t!e men were *lamouring for revenge# (!e *ulprits were a as!ed w!en t!ey saw t!at all t!e !ides and all t!e sti*&s in t!e party would !ardly e3piate t!eir a**ount- !owever, . saved t!em t!e weig!t of it, and instead we pro*laimed t!em moral an&rupts, and set t!em under t!e women to gat!er wood and draw water for t!e tents# So t!ey la oured s!amefully for t!e two days we spent at A u (arfeiyat) w!ere on t!e first day we feasted twi*e and on t!e se*ond day twi*e# (!en 0esi ro&e down, and on plea of illness too& refuge inside 0asir?s tent, and ate dry read t!an&fully# Ge&i !ad een ailing on t!e road, and !is first effort at t!e $oweitat sodden meat and greasy ri*e !ad prostrated !im# $e also lay wit!in t!e tent, reat!ing disgust and dysentery against us# 0asir?s stoma*! !ad !ad long e3perien*e of tri al ways and stood t!e test grandly# .t was in*um ent on !im, for t!e !onour of our guesting, to answer every *all) and for greater !onour, !e *onstrained me always to go wit! !im# So we two leaders represented t!e *amp ea*! day, wit! a de*ent proportion of t!e !ungering Ageyl#

Author 8f *ourse it was monotonous) ut t!e *rystal !appiness in our !osts was a return satisfa*tion for our eyes, and to !ave s!attered it a *rime# 83ford or Medina !ad tried to *ure 0asir and me of superstitious pre>udi*e) and !ad *ompli*ated us to t!e point of regaining simpli*ity# (!ese people were a*!ieving in our *ause t!e !eig!t of nomadi* am ition, a *ontinued orgy of seet!ed mutton# My !eaven mig!t !ave een a lonely, soft arm-*!air, a oo&-rest, and t!e *omplete poets, set in Caslon, printed on toug! paper- ut . !ad een for twenty-eig!t years well-fed, and if Ara imagination ran on food- owls, so mu*! t!e more attaina le t!eir >oy# (!ey !ad een provident e3pressly on our a**ount# A few days efore we *ame, a drover !ad guested wit! t!em) and, y Auda?s order, t!ey !ad oug!t !is fifty s!eep to entertain us wort!ily# .n fifteen meals Ba wee&C we !ad *onsumed t!em all, and t!e !ospitality guttered out# Digestion returned, and wit! it our power of movement# 'e were very weary of Sir!an# (!e lands*ape was of a !opelessness and sadness deeper t!an all t!e open deserts we !ad *rossed# Sand, or flint, or a desert of are ro*&s was e3*iting sometimes, and in *ertain lig!ts !ad t!e monstrous eauty of sterile desolation- ut t!ere was somet!ing sinister, somet!ing a*tively evil in t!is sna&e-devoted Sir!an, proliferant of salt water, arren palms, and us!es w!i*! served neit!er for gra+ing nor for firewood# A**ordingly we mar*!ed one day, and anot!er, eyond G!utti, w!ose wea& well was nearly sweet#

'!en we got near Ageila, we saw t!at it was !eld y many tents, and presently a troop *ame out to meet us# (!ey were Auda a u (ayi, safely a*& from 0uri S!aa-lan, wit! t!e one-eyed Dur+i i n Dug!mi, our old guest at 'e>!# $is presen*e proved 0uri?s favour, as did t!eir strong es*ort of "ualla !orse) w!o, are!eaded and yelling, wel*omed us to 0uri?s empty !ouse wit! a great s!ow of spears and wild firing of rifles and revolvers at full gallop t!roug! t!e dust# (!is modest manor !ad some fruitful palms, en*losed, and t!ey !ad pit*!ed eside t!e garden a Mesopotamian tent of w!ite *anvas# $ere, also, stood Auda?s tent, a !uge !all seven poles long and t!ree wide) and Gaal?s tent was near it, and many ot!ers) and t!roug! t!e afternoon we re*eived fusillades of !onour, deputations, and gifts of ostri*! eggs, or Damas*us dainties, or *amels, or s*raggy !orses, w!ile t!e air was loud a out us wit! t!e *ries of Auda?s volunteers demanding servi*e, immediate servi*e, against t!e (ur&s# Affairs loo&ed well, and we set t!ree men to ma&e *offee for t!e visitors, w!o *ame in to 0asir one y one or group y group, swearing allegian*e to :eisal and to t!e Ara Movement, in t!e 'e>! formula) and promising to o ey 0asir, and to follow after him wit! t!eir *ontingents# %esides t!eir formal presents, ea*! new party deposited on our *arpet t!eir privy, a**idental gift of li*e) and long efore sunset 0asir and . were in a fever, wit! relay after relay of irritation# Auda !ad a stiff arm, t!e effe*t of an old wound in t!e el ow >oint, and so *ould not s*rat*! all of !imself) ut e3perien*e !ad taug!t !im a way of t!rusting a *ross-!eaded *amel-sti*& up !is left sleeve and turning it round and round inside against !is ri s, w!i*! met!od seemed to relieve !is it*! more t!an our *laws did ours#

&()PTE" .L+III
0e &, to e our ne3t !alt, !ad plentiful water, wit! some gra+ing# Auda !ad appointed it our rallying pla*e, e*ause of t!e *onvenient nearness of t!e %laidat, or ?salt !amlets?# .n it !e and S!erif 0asir sat down for days, to *onsider enrolling t!e men, and to prepare t!e road along w!i*! we would mar*!, y approa*!ing t!e tri es and t!e s!ei&!s w!o lived near# 2eisure remained for 0asi , Ge&i and myself# As usual, t!e unsta le Syrian >udgement, not a le to *onsist in t!e narrow point of virtue, staggered to t!e *ir*umferen*e# .n t!e !eady atmosp!ere of first ent!usiasm t!ey ignored A&a a, and despised t!e plain purpose w!i*! !ad led us !ere# 0esi &new t!e S!aalans and t!e Druses# $is mind enrolled t!em, not t!e $oweitat) stru*& at Deraa, not Maan- o**upied Damas*us, not A&a a# $e pointed out t!at t!e (ur&s were all unready- t!at we were sure to gain our first o >e*tive, y s!eer surprise- t!at t!erefore our o >e*tive s!ould e t!e !ig!est# Damas*us was indi*ated y t!e finger of inevita le fate# . pointed !im in vain to :eisal yet in 'e>!- to t!e %ritis! yet t!e wrong side of Ga+a- to t!e new (ur&is! army massing in Aleppo to re*over Mesopotamia# . s!owed !ow we in Damas*us would e unsupported- wit!out resour*es or organi+ation- wit!out a ase- wit!out even a line of *ommuni*ation wit! our friends# %ut 0esi was towering a ove geograp!y, and eyond ta*ti*s, and only sordid means would ring !im down# So . went to Auda, and said t!at wit! t!e new o >e*tive *as! and *redit would go to 0uri S!aalan, and not to !im- . went to 0asir, and used influen*e and our li&ing for one anot!er to &eep him on my plan) fanning !ig! t!e too easily-lit >ealousy etween a S!erif and a Damas*ene) etween an aut!enti* S!ia des*endant of Ali and t!e martyred $ussein, and a very dou tfully reputed des*endant of t!e ?su**essor? A u %e&r# :or our movement, t!e point was Me and deat!# . was sure t!at if we too& Damas*us we s!ould not !old it si3 wee&s, for Murray *ould not instantly atta*& t!e (ur&s, nor would sea-transport e availa le at t!e moment?s noti*e to land a %ritis! army at %eyrout- and in losing Damas*us we s!ould lose our supporters Bonly t!eir first flus! was profita le- a re ellion w!i*! stood still or went a*& was lostC wit!out !aving gained A&a a, w!i*! was t!e last ase in safe water) and in my >udgement t!e only door, e3*ept t!e Middle 4up!rates, w!i*! we *ould unlo*& for an assuredly su**essful entry into Syria# A&a a?s spe*ial value to t!e (ur&s was t!at, w!en t!ey pleased, it mig!t e *onstituted a t!reat to t!e

rig!t flan& of t!e %ritis! army# At t!e end of 191I t!eir !ig!er *ommand !ad t!oug!t to ma&e it t!eir main route to t!e Canal- ut t!ey found t!e food and water diffi*ulties great, and adopted t!e %eers!e a route# 0ow, !owever, t!e %ritis! !ad left t!e Canal positions and !ad t!rust forward to Ga+a and %eers!e a# (!is made t!e feeding of t!e (ur&is! army easier y s!ortening its line# Conse@uently, t!e (ur&s !ad surplus transport# A&a a was also of greater geograp!i*al value t!an of old, sin*e it now lay e!ind t!e %ritis! rig!t, and a small for*e operating from it would t!reaten eit!er 4l Aris! or Sue+ effe*tively# (!e Ara s needed A&a a- firstly, to e3tend t!eir front, w!i*! was t!eir ta*ti*al prin*iple) and, se*ondly, to lin& up wit! t!e %ritis!# .f t!ey too& it t!e a*t gave t!em Sinai, and made positive >un*tion etween t!em and Sir Ar*!i ald Murray# (!us !aving e*ome really useful, t!ey would o tain material !elp# (!e !uman frailty of Murray?s Staff was su*! t!at not!ing ut p!ysi*al *onta*t wit! our su**ess *ould persuade t!em of our importan*e# Murray was friendly- ut if we e*ame !is rig!t wing !e would e@uip us properly, almost wit!out t!e as&ing# A**ordingly, for t!e Ara s, A&a a spelt plenty in food, money, guns, advisers# . wanted *onta*t wit! t!e %ritis!) to a*t as t!e rig!t wing of t!e Allies in t!e *on@uest of ,alestine and Syria) and to assert t!e Ara i*-spea&ing peoples? desire or desert of freedom and self-government# .n my view, if t!e revolt did not rea*! t!e main attlefield against (ur&ey it would !ave to *onfess failure, and remain a side-s!ow of a side-s!ow# . !ad prea*!ed to :eisal, from our first meeting, t!at freedom was ta&en, not given# %ot! 0asir and Auda fortunately answered to my w!ispers) and, after re*riminations, 0esi left us, and rode wit! Ge&i to t!e Druse Mountain, t!ere to do t!e preliminary wor& ne*essary to t!e laun*!ing of !is great Damas*us s*!eme# . &new !is in*apa*ity to *reate) ut it was not in my mind to permit even a !alf- a&ed rising t!ere, to spoil our future material# So . was *areful to draw !is teet! efore !e started, y ta&ing from !im most of t!e money :eisal !ad s!ared out to !im# (!e fool made t!is easy for me, as !e &new !e !ad not enoug! for all !e wanted) and, measuring t!e morality of 4ngland y !is own pettiness, *ame to me for t!e promise of more if !e raised a Syrian movement independent of :eisal, under !is own leaders!ip# . !ad no fear of so untoward a mira*le) and, instead of *alling !im rat, gave my ready promise for future !elp, if !e would for t!e present give me !is alan*e, to get us to A&a a, w!ere . would ma&e funds availa le for t!e general need# $e yielded to my *ondition wit! a ad gra*e) and 0asir was delig!ted to get two ags of money une3pe*tedly# 1et t!e optimism of 0esi !ad its effe*t upon me) w!ile . still saw t!e li eration of Syria !appening in steps, of w!i*! A&a a was t!e indispensa le first, . now saw t!ese steps *oming *lose toget!er) and as soon as 0esi was out of t!e way planned to go off myself, rat!er in !is fas!ion, on a long tour of t!e nort! *ountry# . felt t!at one more sig!t of Syria would put straig!t t!e strategi* ideas given me y t!e Crusaders and t!e first Ara *on@uest, and ad>ust t!em to t!e two new fa*tors--t!e railways, and Murray in Sinai# Also a ras! adventure suited my a andoned mood# .t s!ould !ave een !appiness, t!is lying out free as air, wit! t!e visi le life striving its utmost along my own pat!) ut t!e &nowledge of t!e a3e . was se*retly grinding destroyed all my assuran*e# (!e Ara "evolt !ad egun on false preten*es# (o gain t!e S!erif?s !elp our Ca inet !ad offered, t!roug! Sir $enry M*Ma!on, to support t!e esta lis!ment of native governments in parts of Syria and Mesopotamia, ?saving t!e interests of our ally, :ran*e?# (!e last modest *lause *on*ealed a treaty B&ept se*ret, till too late, from M*Ma!on, and t!erefore from t!e S!erifC y w!i*! :ran*e, 4ngland and "ussia agreed to anne3 some of t!ese promised areas, and to esta lis! t!eir respe*tive sp!eres of influen*e over all t!e rest# "umours of t!e fraud rea*!ed Ara ears, from (ur&ey# .n t!e 4ast persons were more trusted t!an institutions# So t!e Ara s, !aving tested my friendliness and sin*erity under fire, as&ed me, as a free agent, to endorse t!e promises of t!e %ritis! Government# . !ad !ad no previous or inner &nowledge of t!e M*Ma!on pledges and t!e Sy&es-,i*ot treaty, w!i*! were ot! framed y war-time ran*!es of t!e :oreign 8ffi*e# %ut, not eing a perfe*t fool, . *ould see t!at if we won t!e war t!e promises to t!e Ara s were dead paper# $ad . een an !onoura le adviser . would !ave sent my men !ome, and

not let t!em ris& t!eir lives for su*! stuff# 1et t!e Ara inspiration was our main tool in winning t!e 4astern war# So . assured t!em t!at 4ngland &ept !er word in letter and spirit# .n t!is *omfort t!ey performed t!eir fine t!ings- ut, of *ourse, instead of eing proud of w!at we did toget!er, . was *ontinually and itterly as!amed# Clear sig!t of my position *ame to me one nig!t, w!en old 0uri S!aalan in !is aisled tent roug!t out a file of do*uments and as&ed w!i*! %ritis! pledge was to e elieved# .n !is mood, upon my answer, lay t!e su**ess or failure of :eisal# My advi*e, uttered wit! some agony of mind, was to trust t!e latest in date of t!e *ontradi*tions# (!is disingenuous answer promoted me, in si3 mont!s, to e *!ief *onfiden*e-man# .n $e>a+ t!e S!erifs were everyt!ing, and . !ad allayed my *ons*ien*e y telling :eisal !ow !ollow !is asis was# .n Syria 4ngland was mig!ty and t!e S!erif very low# So . e*ame t!e prin*ipal# .n revenge . vowed to ma&e t!e Ara "evolt t!e engine of its own su**ess, as well as !andmaid to our 4gyptian *ampaign- and vowed to lead it so madly in t!e final vi*tory t!at e3pedien*y s!ould *ounsel to t!e ,owers a fair settlement of t!e Ara s? moral *laims# (!is presumed my surviving t!e war, to win t!e later attle of t!e Coun*il C!am er--immodest presumptions, w!i*! still alan*e in fulfilment# 1et t!e issue of t!e fraud was eside t!e point# Clearly . !ad no s!adow of leave to engage t!e Ara s, un&nowing, in a gam le of life and deat!# .nevita ly and >ustly we s!ould reap itterness, a sorry fruit of !eroi* endeavour# So in resentment at my false pla*e Bdid ever se*ond lieutenant so lie a road for !is ettersJC . undertoo& t!is long, dangerous ride, in w!i*! to see t!e more important of :eisal?s se*ret friends, and to study &eypositions of our future *ampaigns- ut t!e results were in*ommensurate wit! t!e ris&s, and t!e a*t artisti*ally un>ustifia le, li&e t!e motive# . !ad w!ispered to myself ?2et me *!an*e it, now, efore we egin?, seeing truly t!at t!is was t!e last *!an*e, and t!at after a su**essful *apture of A&a a . would never again possess myself freely, wit!out asso*iation, in t!e se*urity lur&ing for t!e o s*ure in t!eir prote*tive s!adow# %efore me lay a vista of responsi ility and *ommand, w!i*! disgusted my t!oug!t-riddled nature# . felt mean, to fill t!e pla*e of a man of a*tion) for my standards of value were a wilful rea*tion against t!eirs, and . despised t!eir !appiness# Always my soul !ungered for less t!an it !ad, sin*e my senses, sluggis! eyond t!e senses of most men, needed t!e immedia*y of *onta*t to a*!ieve per*eption) t!ey distinguis!ed &inds only, not degrees# '!en . returned it was /une t!e si3teent!, and 0as! was still la ouring in !is tent# $e and Auda !ad een seeing too mu*! of one anot!er for t!eir good, and lately t!ere !ad een a rea*!) ut t!is was easily !ealed, and after a day t!e old *!ief was as mu*! wit! us as ever, and as &ind and diffi*ult# 'e stood up always w!en !e entered) not for !is s!ei&!!ood, for sitting we re*eived s!ei&!s of mu*! older ran&- ut e*ause !e was Auda, and Auda was su*! a splendid t!ing to e# (!e old man loved it, and !owever mu*! we mig!t wrangle, everyone &new t!at really we were !is friends# 'e were now five wee&s out from 'e>!- we !ad spent nearly all t!e money we !ad roug!t wit! uswe !ad eaten all t!e $oweitat s!eep- we !ad rested or repla*ed all our old *amels- not!ing !indered t!e start# (!e fres!ness of t!e adventure in !and *onsoled us for everyt!ing) and Auda, importing more mutton, gave a farewell feast, t!e greatest of t!e w!ole series, in !is !uge tent t!e eve efore we started# $undreds were present, and five fills of t!e great tray were eaten up in relay as fast as t!ey were *oo&ed and *arried in# Sunset *ame down, delig!tfully red, and after t!e feast t!e w!ole party lay round t!e outside *offee!eart! lingering under t!e stars, w!ile Auda and ot!ers told us stories# .n a pause . remar&ed *asually t!at . !ad loo&ed for Mo!ammed el D!eilan in !is tent t!at afternoon, to t!an& !im for t!e mil*! *amel !e !ad given me, ut !ad not found !im# Auda s!outed for >oy, till every ody loo&ed at !im) and t!en, in t!e silen*e w!i*! fell t!at t!ey mig!t learn t!e >o&e, !e pointed to Mo!ammed sitting dismally eside t!e *offee mortar, and said in !is !uge voi*e--?$oA S!all . tell w!y Mo!ammed for fifteen days !as not slept in !is tentJ? 4very ody *!u*&led wit!

delig!t, and *onversation stopped) all t!e *rowd stret*!ed out on t!e ground, *!ins in !ands, prepared to ta&e t!e good points of t!e story w!i*! t!ey !ad !eard per!aps twenty times# (!e women, Auda?s t!ree wives, Gaal?s wife, and some of Mo!ammed?s, w!o !ad een *oo&ing, *ame a*ross, straddling t!eir ellies in t!e illowy wal& w!i*! *ame of *arrying urdens on t!eir !eads,till t!ey were near t!e partition-*urtain) and t!ere t!ey listened li&e t!e rest w!ile Auda told at lengt! !ow Mo!ammed !ad oug!t pu li*ly in t!e a+aar at 'e>! a *ostly string of pearls, and !ad not given it to any of !is wives, and so t!ey were all at odds, e3*ept in t!eir *ommon re>e*tion of !im# (!e story was, of *ourse, a pure invention--Auda?s elvis! !umour !eig!tened y t!e stimulus of "evolt--and t!e lu*&less Mo!ammed, w!o !ad dragged t!roug! t!e fortnig!t guesting *asually wit! one or ot!er of t!e tri esmen, *alled upon God for mer*y, and upon me for witness t!at Auda lied# . *leared my t!roat solemnly# Auda as&ed for silen*e, and egged me to *onfirm !is words# . egan wit! t!e introdu*ing p!rase of a formal tale- .n t!e name of God t!e mer*iful, t!e loving-&ind# 'e were si3 in 'e>!# (!ere were Auda, and Mo!ammed, and Gaal, Gasim el S!imt, Mufadd!i and t!e poor man BmyselfC) and one nig!t >ust efore dawn, Auda said, ?2et us ma&e a raid against t!e mar&et?# And we said, ?in t!e name of God?# And we went) Auda in a w!ite ro e and a red !ead-*lot!, and ;asim sandals of pie*ed leat!er) Mo!ammed in a sil&en tuni* of ?seven &ings? and arefoot) Gaal # # # . forget Gaal# Gasim wore *otton, and Mufadd!i was in sil& of lue stripes wit! an em roidered !ead*lot!# 1our servant was as your servant#? My pause was still wit! astonis!ment# (!is was a *lose parody of Auda?s epi* style) and . mimi*&ed also !is wave of t!e !and, !is round voi*e, and t!e rising and dropping tone w!i*! emp!asi+ed t!e points, or w!at !e t!oug!t were points, of !is pointless stories# (!e $oweitat sat silent as deat!, twisting t!eir full odies inside t!eir sweat-stiffened s!irts for >oy, and staring !ungrily at Auda) for t!ey all re*ogni+ed t!e original, and parody was a new art to t!em and to !im# (!e *offee man, Mufadd!i, a S!ammar refugee from t!e guilt of lood, !imself a *!ara*ter, forgot to pile fres! t!orns on !is fire for fi3ity of listening to t!e tale# . told !ow we left t!e tents, wit! a list of t!e tents, and !ow we wal&ed down towards t!e village, des*ri ing every *amel and !orse we saw, and all t!e passers- y, and t!e ridges, ?all are of gra+ing, for y God t!at *ountry was arren# And we mar*!ed- and after we !ad mar*!ed t!e time of a smo&ed *igarette, we !eard somet!ing, and Auda stopped and said, ?2ads, . !ear somet!ing?# And Mo!ammed stopped and said, ?2ads, . !ear somet!ing?# And Gaal, ?%y God, you are rig!t?# And we stopped to listen, and t!ere was not!ing, and t!e poor man said, ?%y God, . !ear not!ing?# And Gaal said, ?%y God, . !ear not!ing?# And Mo!ammed said, ?%y God, . !ear not!ing?# And Auda said, ?%y God, you are rig!t?# ?And we mar*!ed and we mar*!ed, and t!e land was arren, and we !eard not!ing# And on our rig!t !and *ame a man, a negro, on a don&ey# (!e don&ey was grey, wit! la*& ears, and one la*& foot, and on its s!oulder was a rand li&e t!is? Ba s*ra le in t!e airC, ?and its tail moved and its legs- Auda saw it, and said, ?%y God, a don&ey?# And Mo!ammed said, ?%y t!e very God, a don&ey and a slave?# And we mar*!ed# And t!ere was a ridge, not a great ridge, ut a ridge as great as from t!e !ere to t!e w!at-do-you-*all-it Bhi biliyeh el hokC t!at is yonder- and we mar*!ed to t!e ridge and it was arren# (!at land is arren- arren- arren# ?And we mar*!ed- and eyond t!e w!at-do-you-*all-it t!ere was a w!at-t!ere-is as far as !ere y from t!en*e, and t!ereafter a ridge- and we *ame to t!at ridge, and went up t!at ridge- it was arren, all t!at land was arren- and as we *ame up t!at ridge, and were y t!e !ead of t!at ridge, and *ame to t!e end of t!e !ead of t!at ridge, y God, y my God, y very God, t!e sun rose upon us#? .t ended t!e session# 4veryone !ad !eard t!at sunrise twenty times, in its immense at!os) an agony piled up of lin&ed p!rases, repeated and repeated wit! reat!less e3*itement y Auda to *arry over for !ours t!e t!rill of a raiding story in w!i*! not!ing !appened) and t!e trivial rest of it was e3aggerated t!e degree w!i*! made it li&e one of Auda?s tales) and yet, also, t!e !istory of t!e wal& to mar&et at 'e>! w!i*! many of us !ad ta&en# (!e tri e was in waves of laug!ter on t!e ground#

Auda laug!ed t!e loudest and longest, for !e loved a >est upon !imself) and t!e fatuousness of my epi* !ad s!own !im !is own sure mastery of des*riptive a*tion# $e em ra*ed Mo!ammed, and *onfessed t!e invention of t!e ne*&la*e# .n gratitude Mo!ammed invited t!e *amp to rea&fast wit! !im in !is regained tent on t!e morrow, an !our efore we started for t!e swoop on A&a a# 'e s!ould !ave a su*&ing *amel-*alf oiled in sour mil& y !is wives- famous *oo&s, and a legendary dis!A Afterwards we sat y t!e wall of 0uri?s manor, and saw t!e women ta&e down t!e great tent, greater t!an Auda?s, eig!t- ayed of twenty-four poles in all, longer and roader and loftier t!an any ot!er in t!e tri e, and new, li&e t!e rest of Mo!ammed?s goods# (!e A u (ayi were rearranging t!eir *amp, for se*urity w!en t!eir fig!ting men mar*!ed away# (!roug!out t!e afternoon tents were *oming in and eing pit*!ed y us# (!e o long *lot! was stret*!ed flat upon t!e ground) t!e ropes at t!e end, in t!e sides, y t!e pole-gussets, strained out and tied to pegs# (!en t!e !ousewife would insert t!e lig!t poles one y one, under t!e *lot!, and lever it up y t!em, until t!e w!ole was in pla*e, pit*!ed single-!anded y t!e one wea& woman, !owever roug! t!e wind# .f it rained one row of poles was drawn in at t!e foot, so slanting t!e roof-*lot! o li@uely to t!e s!ower, and ma&ing it reasona ly waterproof# .n summer t!e Ara tent was less !ot t!an our *anvas tents, for t!e sun-!eat was not a sor ed in t!is loose woven fa ri* of !air and wool, wit! t!e air spa*es and *urrents etween its t!reads#

&()PTE" .LI.
'e started an !our efore noon# 0asir led us, riding !is G!a+ala--a *amel vaulted and !uge-ri ed as an anti@ue s!ip) towering a good foot a ove t!e ne3t of our animals, and yet perfe*tly proportioned, wit! a stride li&e an ostri*!?s--a lyri*al east, no lest and est red of t!e $oweitat *amels, a female of nine remem ered dams# Auda was eside !im, and . s&irmis!ed a out t!eir gravities on 0aama, ?t!e !en-ostri*!?, a ra*ing *amel and my last pur*!ase# %e!ind me rode my Ageyl, wit! Mo!ammed, t!e *lumsy# Mo!ammed was now *ompanioned y A!med, anot!er peasant, w!o !ad een for si3 years living among t!e $oweitat y for*e of !is t!ews and wits--a &nowing eager ruffian# Si3ty feet of a rise too& us out of Sir!an to t!e first terra*e of t!e Ard el Suwan--a *ountry of la*& flints upon marly limestone) not very solid, ut !ard enoug! in t!e tra*&s w!i*! t!e feet of passing *enturies of *amels !ad worn an in*! or two into t!e surfa*e# 8ur aim was %air, a !istori* group of G!assanid wells and ruins in t!e desert t!irty or forty miles east of t!e $e>a+ "ailway# .t lay some si3ty miles a!ead, and t!ere we would *amp a few days, w!ile our s*outs roug!t us flour from t!e !ill villages a ove t!e Dead Sea# 8ur food from 'e>! was nearly finis!ed Be3*ept t!at 0asir still !ad some of t!e pre*ious ri*e for great o**asionsC, and we *ould not yet *ertainly fore*ast t!e date of our arrival in A&a a# 8ur present party totalled more t!an five !undred strong) and t!e sig!t of t!is >olly mo of !ardy, *onfident nort!erners *!asing ga+elle wildly over t!e fa*e of t!e desert, too& from us momentarily all sorry appre!ension as to t!e issue of our enterprise# 'e felt it was a ri*e-nig!t, and t!e *!iefs of t!e A u (ayi *ame to sup wit! us# Afterwards, wit! t!e em ers of our *offee-fire pleasantly red etween us against t!e *ool of t!is upland nort!-*ountry, we sat a out on t!e *arpets *!atting dis*ursively of t!is remote t!ing and t!at# 0asir rolled over on !is a*&, wit! my glasses, and egan to study t!e stars, *ounting aloud first one group and t!en anot!er) *rying out wit! surprise at dis*overing little lig!ts not noti*ed y !is unaided eye# Auda set us on to tal& of teles*opes--of t!e great ones--and of !ow man in t!ree !undred years !ad so far advan*ed from !is first essay t!at now !e uilt glasses as long as a tent, t!roug! w!i*! !e *ounted t!ousands of un&nown stars# ?And t!e stars--w!at are t!eyJ? 'e slipped into tal& of suns eyond suns, si+es and distan*e eyond wit# ?'!at will now !appen wit! t!is &nowledgeJ? as&ed Mo!ammed# ?'e s!all set to, and many learned and some *lever men toget!er will ma&e glasses as more powerful t!an ours, as ours t!an Galileo?s) and yet more !undreds of astronomers will distinguis! and re*&on yet more t!ousands of now unseen stars, mapping t!em, and giving ea*! one its name# '!en we see t!em all, t!ere will e no nig!t in !eaven#?

'!y are t!e 'esterners always wanting allJ? provo&ingly said Auda# ?%e!ind our few stars we *an see God, w!o is not e!ind your millions#? 'e want t!e world?s end,Auda#? ?%ut t!at is God?s,? *omplained Gaal, !alf angry# Mo!ammed would not !ave !is su >e*t turned# ?Are t!ere men on t!ese greater worldsJ? !e as&ed# ?God &nows#? ?And !as ea*! t!e ,rop!et and !eaven and !ellJ? Auda ro&e in on !im# ?2ads, we &now our distri*ts, our *amels, our women# (!e e3*ess and t!e glory are to God# .f t!e end of wisdom is to add star to star our foolis!ness is pleasing#? And t!en !e spo&e of money, and distra*ted t!eir minds till t!ey all u++ed at on*e# Afterwards !e w!ispered to me t!at . must get !im a wort!y gift from :eisal w!en !e won A&a a# 'e mar*!ed at dawn, and in an !our topped t!e 'agf, t!e water-s!ed, and rode down its far side# (!e ridge was only a an& of *!al&, flint-*apped, a *ouple of !undred feet !ig!# 'e were now in t!e !ollow etween t!e Snainirat on t!e sout! and, on t!e nort!, t!e t!ree w!ite !eads of t!e (!lait!u&!wat, a *luster of *oni*al !ills w!i*! s!one rilliant as snow in t!e suns!ine# Soon we entered 'adi %air, and mar*!ed up and a*ross it for !ours# (!ere !ad een a flood t!ere in t!e spring, produ*ing a ri*! growt! of grasses etween t!e s*ru y us!es# .t was green and pleasant to t!e eye and to our *amels? !ungry palates, after t!e long !ostility of t!e Sir!an# ,resently Auda told me !e was riding a!ead to %air, and would . *omeJ 'e went fast, and in two !ours *ame upon t!e pla*e suddenly, under a &noll# Auda !ad !urried on to visit t!e tom of !is son Annad, w!o !ad een waylaid y five of !is Motalga *ousins in revenge for A tan, t!eir *!ampion, slain y Annad in single *om at# Auda told me !ow Annad !ad ridden at t!em, one against five, and !ad died as !e s!ould) ut it left only little Mo!ammed etween !im and *!ildlessness# $e !ad roug!t me along to !ear !im greatly lament !is dead# $owever, as we rode down towards t!e graves, we were astonis!ed to see smo&e wreat!ing from t!e ground a out t!e wells# 'e *!anged dire*tion s!arply, and warily approa*!ed t!e ruins# .t seemed t!ere was no one t!ere) ut t!e t!i*& dung-*a&e round t!e well- rin& was *!arred, and t!e well itself s!attered at t!e top# (!e ground was torn and la*&ened as if y an e3plosion) and w!en we loo&ed down t!e s!aft we saw its steyning stripped and split, and many lo*&s t!rown down t!e ore !alf *!o&ing it and t!e water in t!e ottom# . sniffed t!e air and t!oug!t t!e smell was dynamite# Auda ran to t!e ne3t well, in t!e ed of t!e valley elow t!e graves) and t!at, too, was ragged a out t!e !ead and *!o&ed wit! fallen stones# (!is,? said !e, ?is /a+i wor&#? 'e wal&ed a*ross t!e valley to t!e t!ird--t!e %eni Sa&!r--well# .t was only a *rater of *!al&# Gaal arrived, grave at sig!t of t!e disaster# 'e e3plored t!e ruined &!an, in w!i*! were nig!t-old tra*es of per!aps a !undred !orse# (!ere was a fourt! well, nort! of t!e ruins in t!e open flat, and to it we went !opelessly, wondering w!at would e*ome of us if %air were all destroyed# (o our >oy it was unin>ured# (!is was a /a+i well, and its immunity gave strong *olour to Auda?s t!eory# 'e were dis*on*erted to find t!e (ur&s so ready, and egan to fear t!at per!aps t!ey !ad also raided 4l /efer, east of Maan, t!e wells at w!i*! we planned to *on*entrate efore we atta*&ed# (!eir lo*&ing would e a real em arrassment# Meanw!ile, t!an&s to t!e fourt! well, our situation, t!oug! un*omforta le, was not dangerous# 1et its water fa*ilities were altoget!er insuffi*ient for five !undred *amels) so it e*ame imperative to open t!e least damaged of t!e ot!er wells--t!at in t!e ruins, a out w!ose lip t!e turf smouldered# Auda and . went off wit! 0asir to loo& again at it# An Ageyli roug!t us an empty *ase of 0o el?s gelignite, evidently t!e e3plosive w!i*! t!e (ur&s !ad used# :rom s*ars in t!e ground it was *lear t!at several *!arges !ad een fired simultaneously round t!e well-!ead, and in t!e s!aft# Staring down it till our eyes were ad>usted to its dar&, we suddenly saw many ni*!es *ut in t!e s!aft less t!an twenty feet elow# Some were still tamped, and !ad wires !anging down# 4vidently t!ere was a se*ond series of *!arges, eit!er ineffi*iently wired, or wit! a very long timefuse# $urriedly we unrolled our u*&et-ropes, twined t!em toget!er, and !ung t!em freely down t!e middle of t!e well from a stout *ross-pole, t!e sides eing so tottery t!at t!e s*rape of a rope mig!t !ave dislodged t!eir lo*&s# . t!en found t!at t!e *!arges were small, not a ove t!ree pounds ea*!,

and !ad een wired in series wit! field telep!one *a le# %ut somet!ing !ad gone wrong# 4it!er t!e (ur&s !ad s*amped t!eir >o or t!eir s*outs !ad seen us *oming efore t!ey !ad !ad time to re*onne*t# So we soon !ad two fit wells, and a *lear profit of t!irty pounds of enemy gelignite# 'e determined to stay a wee& in t!is fortunate %air# A t!ird o >e*t--to dis*over t!e *ondition of t!e /efer wells--was now added to our needs for food, and for news of t!e state of mind of t!e tri es etween Maan and A&a a# 'e sent a man to /efer# 'e prepared a little *aravan of pa*&-*amels wit! $oweitat rands and sent t!em a*ross t!e line to (afile! wit! t!ree or four o s*ure *lansmen-people w!o would never e suspe*ted of asso*iation wit! us# (!ey would uy all t!e flour t!ey *ould and ring it a*& to us in five or si3 days? time# As for t!e tri es a out t!e A&a a road, we wanted t!eir a*tive !elp against t!e (ur&s to *arry out t!e provisional plan we !ad made at 'e>!# 8ur idea was to advan*e suddenly from 4l /efer, to *ross t!e railway-line and to *rown t!e great pass--0ag el S!tar--down w!i*! t!e road dipped from t!e Maan plateau to t!e red Guweira plain# (o !old t!is pass we s!ould !ave to *apture A a el 2issan, t!e large spring at its !ead, a out si3teen miles from Maan) ut t!e garrison was small, and we !oped to overrun it wit! a rus!# 'e would t!en e astride t!e road, w!ose posts at t!e end of t!e wee& s!ould fall from !unger) t!oug! pro a ly efore t!at t!e !ill tri es, !earing of our su**essful eginning, would >oin us to wipe t!em out# Cru3 of our plan was t!e atta*& on A a el 2issan, lest t!e for*e in Maan !ave time to sally out, relieve it, and drive us off t!e !ead of S!tar# .f, as at present, t!ey were only a attalion, t!ey would !ardly dare move) and s!ould t!ey let it fall w!ile waiting for reinfor*ements to arrive, A&a a would surrender to us, and we s!ould e ased on t!e sea and !ave t!e advantageous gorge of .tm etween us and t!e enemy# So our insuran*e for su**ess was to &eep Maan *areless and wea&, not suspe*ting our malevolent presen*e in t!e neig! our!ood# .t was never easy for us to &eep our movements se*ret, as we lived y prea*!ing to t!e lo*al people, and t!e un*onvin*ed would tell t!e (ur&s# 8ur long mar*! into 'adi Sir!an was &nown to t!e enemy, and t!e most *ivilian owl *ould not fail to see t!at t!e only fit o >e*tive was A&a a# (!e demolition of %air Band /efer, too, for we !ad it *onfirmed t!at t!e seven wells of /efer were destroyedC s!owed t!at t!e (ur&s were to t!at e3tent on t!e alert# $owever, t!ere was no measuring t!e stupidity of t!e (ur&is! Army) a point w!i*! !elped us now and again, and !armed us *onstantly, for we *ould not avoid despising t!em for it BAra s eing a ra*e gifted wit! un*ommon @ui*&ness of mind, and over-valuing itC and an army suffered w!en una le to yield !onour to t!e enemy# :or t!e moment t!e stupidity mig!t e made use of) and so we !ad underta&en a prolonged *ampaign of de*eption, to *onvin*e t!em t!at our o >e*tive lay nearer to Damas*us# (!ey were sus*epti le to pressure in t!at neig! our!ood, for t!e railway from Damas*us, nort! to Deraa and sout! to Amman, was t!e *ommuni*ation, not merely of $e>a+, ut of ,alestine) and if we atta*&ed it we s!ould do dou le damage# So, in my long trip round t!e nort! *ountry, . !ad dropped !ints of our near arrival in /e el Druse) and . !ad een glad to let t!e notorious 0esi go up t!ere, noisily, ut wit! small resour*es# 0uri S!aalan !ad warned t!e (ur&s for us in t!e same sense) and 0ew*om e, down near 'e>!, !ad *ontrived to lose offi*ial papers, in*luding a plan Bin w!i*! we were advan*e guardC for mar*!ing from 'e>!, y /efer and t!e Sir!an, to (admor, to atta*& Damas*us and Aleppo# (!e (ur&s too& t!e do*uments very seriously, and *!ained up an unfortunate garrison in (admor till t!e end of t!e war, mu*! to our advantage#

&()PTE" L
.t seemed wise to ma&e some *on*rete effort in t!e same dire*tion during t!e wee& t!at we must spend in %air, and Auda de*ided t!at Gaal s!ould ride wit! me in *ommand of a party to atta*& t!e line near Deraa# Gaal *!ose one !undred and ten men, individually, and we rode !ard, in si3-!our

spells wit! one--or two--!our intervals, day and nig!t# :or me it was an eventful trip, for t!ose reasons w!i*! made it dull to t!e Ara s) namely, t!at we were an ordinary tri al raiding party, riding on *onventional lines, in t!e formation and after t!e pattern w!i*! generations of pra*ti*e !ad proved effi*ient# .n t!e se*ond afternoon we rea*!ed t!e railway >ust a ove Gerga, t!e Cir*assian village nort! of Amman# (!e !ot sun and fast riding !ad tried our *amels, and Gaal de*ided to water t!em at a ruined "oman village, t!e underground *isterns of w!i*! !ad een filled y t!e late rains# .t lay wit!in a mile of t!e railway, and we !ad to e *ir*umspe*t, for t!e Cir*assians !ated t!e Ara s, and would !ave een !ostile !ad t!ey seen us# Also t!ere was a military post of two tents on a tall ridge >ust down t!e line# (!e (ur&s seemed a*tive# 2ater we !eard t!at a general?s inspe*tion was pending# After t!e watering we rode anot!er si3 miles, and in t!e early dar& turned to D!uleil ridge, w!i*! Gaal reported as a ig one, good to destroy# (!e men and *amels stayed on t!e !ig! ground east of t!e railway to *over our retreat if anyt!ing untoward !appened, w!ile Gaal and . went down to t!e ridge to loo& it over# (!ere were (ur&s two !undred yards eyond it, wit! many tents and *oo&ing fires# 'e were pu++led to e3plain t!eir strengt!, until we rea*!ed t!e ridge and found it eing re uilt) t!e spring flood !ad was!ed away four of its ar*!es, and t!e line was temporarily laid on a deviation# 8ne of t!e new ar*!es was finis!ed, anot!er !ad t!e vault >ust turned, and t!e tim er *entring was set ready for a t!ird# 9seless, of *ourse, it was, ot!ering to destroy a ridge in su*! a state) so we drew off @uietly Bnot to alarm t!e wor&menC, wal&ing over loose stones w!i*! turned under our are feet in a way imposing *are if we would avoid ris& of sprain# 8n*e . put my foot on somet!ing moving, soft and *old) and stepped !eavily, on *!an*e it was a sna&e) ut no !arm followed# (!e rilliant stars *ast a out us a false lig!t, not illumination, ut rat!er a transparen*y of air lengt!ening slig!tly t!e s!adow elow ea*! stone, and ma&ing a diffi*ult greyness of t!e ground# 'e de*ided to go furt!er nort!, towards Minifir, w!ere Gaal t!oug!t t!e land propitious for mining a train# A train would e etter t!an a ridge, for our need was politi*al, to ma&e t!e (ur&s t!in& t!at our main ody was at A+ra& in Sir!an, fifty miles away to t!e east# 'e *ame out on a flat plain, *rossed y a very o**asional s!allow ed of fine s!ingle# 8ver t!is we were going easily w!en we !eard a long rum le# 'e pri*&ed ears, wondering- and t!ere *ame out of t!e nort! a dan*ing plume of flame ent low y t!e wind of its speed# .t seemed to lig!t us, e3tending its fire-tagged *urtain of smo&e over our !eads, so near were we to t!e railway) and we s!ran& a*& w!ile t!e train rus!ed on# (wo minutes? warning and . would !ave lown its lo*omotive into s*rap# Afterwards our mar*! was @uiet till t!e dawn, w!en we found ourselves riding up a narrow valley# At its !ead was a s!arp turn to t!e left, into an amp!it!eatre of ro*& w!ere t!e !ill went up y step after step of ro&en *liff to a *rest on w!i*! stood a massive *airn# Gaal said t!e railway was visi le t!en*e, and if t!is were true t!e pla*e was an ideal am us!, for t!e *amels *ould e !erded wit!out any guardians into t!e pit of e3*ellent past ure# . *lim ed at on*e to t!e *airn, t!e ruin of an Ara wat*!-tower of t!e C!ristian period, *ommanding a most gra*ious view of ri*! pastoral uplands eyond t!e line, w!i*! ran round t!e foot of our slope in a la+y *urve, open to sig!t for per!aps five miles# %elow on our left was t!e s@uare o3 of t!e ?*offee!ouse?, a railway !alt, a out w!i*! a few little soldiers were slou*!ing pea*efully# 'e lay alternately wat*!ing and sleeping, for many !ours, during w!i*! a train ground slowly past up t!e stiff gradient# 'e made plans to des*end upon t!e line t!at nig!t, w!erever seemed est for mining# $owever, in mid-morning a dar& mass approa*!ed from t!e nort!ward# 4ventually we made it out to e a for*e of per!aps one !undred and fifty mounted men, riding straig!t for our !ill# .t loo&ed as t!oug! we !ad een reported) A @uite possi le t!ing, sin*e all t!is area was gra+ed over y t!e s!eep of t!e %elga tri es, w!ose s!ep!erds, w!en t!ey saw our stealt!iness, would !ave ta&en us for ro erenemies and alarmed t!eir tents# 8ur position, admira le against t!e railway, was a deat!-trap in w!i*! to e *aug!t y superior

mo ile for*es- so we sent down t!e alarm, mounted and slipped a*ross t!e valley of our entry, and over its eastern ridge into a small plain, w!ere we *ould *anter our animals# 'e made speed to low mounds on its furt!er side, and got e!ind t!em efore t!e enemy were in a position to see us# (!ere t!e terrain etter suited our ta*ti*s and we waited for t!em) ut t!ey were at least imperfe*tly informed, for t!ey rode past our old !iding-pla*e and @ui*&ly away towards t!e sout!, leaving us pu++led# (!ere were no Ara s among t!em--all were regulars--so we !ad not to fear eing tra*&ed, ut !ere again it seemed as t!oug! t!e (ur&s were on t!e alert# (!is was a**ording to my wis!, and . was glad, ut Gaal, on w!om fell t!e military responsi ility, was dis@uieted# $e !eld a *oun*il wit! t!ose ot!ers w!o &new t!e *ountry, and eventually we remounted, and >ogged off to anot!er !ill, rat!er nort! of our old one, ut satisfa*tory enoug!# ,arti*ularly it !appened to e free of tri al *ompli*ations# (!is was Minifir proper, a round-!eaded, grass-grown !ill of two s!oulders# (!e !ig! ne*& etween provided us, on its eastern fa*e, a road tra*& perfe*tly *overed from nort! and sout! and west, w!i*! afforded a safe retreat into t!e desert# At t!e top t!e ne*& was *upped, so t!at *olle*ted rain !ad made t!e soil ri*!, and t!e gra+ing sumptuous) ut loosed *amels re@uired *onstant *are, for if t!ey wandered two !undred pa*es forward t!ey e*ame visi le from t!e railway, a furt!er four !undred yards down t!e western fa*e of t!e !ill# 8n ea*! side t!e s!oulders pus!ed forward in spurs w!i*! t!e line passed in s!allow *uttings# (!e e3*avated material !ad een t!rown a*ross t!e !ollow in an em an&ment) t!roug! t!e *entre of w!i*! a lofty *ulvert let t!e drainage of t!e little +ig+ag gully from t!e ne*& run down into a larger transverse valley ed eyond# 0ort!ward t!e line *urved away, !ard up!ill, to t!e wide level of t!e sout!ern $auran, spread out li&e a grey s&y, and fle*&ed wit! small dar& *louds w!i*! were t!e dead asalt towns of %y+antine Syria# Sout!ward was a *airn from w!i*! we *ould loo& down t!e railway for si3 miles or more# (!e !ig! land fa*ing us to t!e west, t!e %elga, was spotted wit! la*& tent-villages of peasants in summer @uarters# (!ey *ould see us too, in our !ill-*up, so we sent word w!o we were# '!ereupon t!ey &ept silent till we !ad gone, and t!en were fervid and elo@uent in proving t!at we fled eastward, to A+ra&# '!en our messengers *ame a*& we !ad read to eat--a lu3ury) sin*e t!e deart! in %air !ad redu*ed us to par*!ed *orn w!i*!, for la*& of *oo&ing-opportunity t!e men !ad een *!ewing raw# (!e trial was too steep for my teet!, so t!at . rode fasting# Gaal and . uried t!at nig!t on t!e *ulvert a great Garland mine, automati*-*ompound, to e3plode t!ree *!arges in parallel y instantaneous fuse) and t!en lay down to sleep, sure t!at we would !ear noises if a train *ame along in t!e dar& and fired it# $owever, not!ing !appened, and at dawn . removed t!e detonators w!i*! Badditional to t!e trigger a*tionC !ad een laid on t!e metals# Afterwards we waited all day, fed and *omforta le, *ooled y a !ig! wind w!i*! !issed li&e surf as it ruffled up t!e stiff-grassed !ill# :or !ours not!ing *ame along- ut at last t!ere was a flutter among t!e Ara s, and Gaal, wit! t!e $u si and some of t!e more a*tive men, das!ed down towards t!e line# 'e !eard two s!ots under us in t!e dead ground, and after !alf an !our t!e party reappeared, leading two ragged (ur&is! deserters from t!e mounted *olumn of t!e day efore# 8ne !ad een adly wounded, w!ile attempting to es*ape up t!e line) and in t!e afternoon !e died, most misera le a out !imself and !is fate# 43*eptionally- for w!en deat! e*ame *ertain most men felt t!e @uietness of t!e grave waiting for t!em, and went to it not unwillingly# (!e ot!er man was !urt also, a *lean guns!ot in t!e foot) ut !e was very fee le and *ollapsed w!en t!e wound grew painful wit! t!e *old# $is t!in ody was so *overed wit! ruises, to&ens of army servi*e and *ause of !is desertion, t!at !e dared lie only on !is fa*e# 'e offered !im t!e last of our read and water and did w!at else we *ould for !im- w!i*! was little# 2ate in t!e afternoon *ame a t!rill w!en t!e mule-mounted infantry reappeared, !eading up-line towards us# (!ey would pass elow our am us!, and Gaal and t!e men were urgent to atta*& t!em on t!e sudden# 'e were one !undred, t!ey little over two !undred# 'e !ad t!e upper ground, *ould !ope

to empty some of t!eir saddles y our first volley, and t!en would *amel-*!arge upon t!em# Camels, espe*ially down a gentle slope, would overta&e mules in a few strides, and t!eir moving ul& would send spinning t!e lig!ter animals and t!eir riders# Gaal gave me !is word t!at no regular *avalry, let alone mere mounted infantry, *ould *ope wit! tri al *amels in a running fig!t 'e s!ould ta&e not only t!e men, ut t!eir pre*ious animals# . as&ed !im !ow many *asualties we mig!t in*ur# $e guessed five or si3, and t!en . de*ided to do not!ing, to let t!em pass# 'e !ad one o >e*tive only, t!e *apture of A&a a, and !ad *ome up !ere solely to ma&e t!at easier y leading t!e (ur&s off on t!e false s*ent of t!in&ing t!at we were at A+ra&# (o lose five or si3 men in su*! a demonstration, !owever profita le it proved finan*ially, would e fatuous, or worse, e*ause we mig!t want our last rifle to ta&e A&a a, t!e possession of w!i*! was vital to us# After A&a a !ad fallen we mig!t waste men, if we felt *allous) ut not efore# . told Gaal, w!o was not *ontent) w!ile t!e furious $oweitat t!reatened to run off down!ill at t!e (ur&s, willy-nilly# (!ey wanted a ooty of mules) and ., parti*ularly, did not, for it would !ave diverted us# Commonly, tri es went to war to gain !onour and wealt!# (!e t!ree no le spoils were arms, riding-animals, and *lot!es# .f we too& t!ese two !undred mules, t!e proud men would t!row up A&a a and drive t!em !ome y way of A+ra& to t!eir tents, to triump! efore t!e women# As for prisoners, 0asir would not e grateful for two !undred useless mout!s- so we s!ould !ave to &ill t!em) or let t!em go, revealing our num ers to t!e enemy# 'e sat and gnas!ed our teet! at t!em and let t!em pass- a severe ordeal, from w!i*! we only >ust emerged wit! !onour# Gaal did it# $e was on !is est e!aviour, e3pe*ting tangi le gratitude from me later) and glad, meanw!ile, to s!ow me !is aut!ority over t!e %eduin# (!ey respe*ted !im as Auda?s deputy, and as a famous fig!ter, and in one or two little mutinies !e !ad s!own a self-*ons*ious mastery# 0ow !e was tested to t!e utmost# (!e $u si, Auda?s *ousin, A# spirited yout!, w!ile t!e (ur&s were defiling inno*ently not t!ree !undred yards from our it*!ing rifle-mu++les, sprang to !is feet and ran forward s!outing to attra*t t!em, and *ompel a attle) ut Gaal *aug!t !im in ten strides, t!rew !im down and ludgeoned !im savagely time and again till we feared lest t!e lad?s now very different *ries fulfil !is former purpose# .t was sad to see a sound and pleasant little vi*tory pass voluntarily out of our !ands, and we were gloomy till evening *ame down and *onfirmed our sense t!at on*e more t!ere would e no train# (!is was t!e final o**asion, for t!irst was !anging over us, and on t!e morrow t!e *amels must e watered# So after nig!tfall we returned to t!e line, laid t!irty *!arges of gelignite against t!e most-*urved rails and fired t!em leisurely# (!e *urved rails were *!osen sin*e t!e (ur&s would !ave to ring down new ones from Damas*us# A*tually, t!is too& t!em t!ree days) and t!en t!eir *onstru*tion train stepped on our mine Bw!i*! we !ad left as !oo& e!ind t!e demolition?s aitC and !urt its lo*omotive# (raffi* *eased for t!ree ot!er days w!ile t!e line was pi*&ed over for traps# :or t!e moment, of *ourse, we *ould anti*ipate none of t!ese good t!ings# 'e did t!e destru*tion, returned sorrowfully to our *amels, and were off soon after midnig!t# (!e prisoner was left e!ind on !is !ill-top, for !e *ould neit!er wal& nor ride, and we !ad no *arriage for !im# 'e feared !e would starve to deat! w!ere !e lay- and, indeed, already !e was very ill- so on a telegrap! pole, felled a*ross t!e rails y t!e damaged stret*!, we put a letter in :ren*! and German, to give news of w!ere !e was, and t!at we !ad *aptured !im wounded after a !ard fig!t# 'e !oped t!is mig!t save !im t!e penalties w!i*! t!e (ur&s infli*ted on red-!anded deserters, or from eing s!ot if t!ey t!oug!t !e !ad een in *ollusion wit! us- ut w!en we *ame a*& to Minifir si3 mont!s later t!e pi*&ed ones of t!e two odies were lying s*attered on our old *amping ground# 'e felt sorry always for t!e men of t!e (ur&is! Army# (!e offi*ers, volunteer and professional, !ad *aused t!e war y t!eir am ition--almost y t!eir e3isten*e--and we wis!ed t!ey *ould re*eive not merely t!eir proportionate deserts, ut all t!at t!e *ons*ripts !ad to suffer t!roug! t!eir fault#

&()PTE" LI
.n t!e nig!t we lost our way among t!e stony ridges and valleys of D!uleil, ut &ept moving until dawn, so t!at !alf an !our after sunrise, w!ile t!e s!adows were yet long a*ross t!e green !ollows, we !ad rea*!ed our former watering-pla*e, ;!au, w!ose ruins ro&e from t!e !ill-top against Gerga li&e a s*a # 'e were wor&ing !ard at t!e two *isterns, watering our *amels for t!e return mar*! to %air, w!en a young Cir*assian *ame in sig!t, driving t!ree *ows towards t!e ri*! green pasture of t!e ruins# (!is would not do, so Gaal sent off !is too-energeti* offenders of t!e day previous to s!ow t!eir proper mettle y stal&ing !im- and t!ey roug!t !im in, un!armed, ut greatly frig!tened# Cir*assians were swaggering fellows, inordinate ullies in a *lear road) ut if firmly met t!ey *ra*&ed) and so t!is lad was in a !ead-and-tail flu3 of terror, offending our sense of respe*t# 'e dren*!ed !im wit! water till !e re*overed, and t!en in disposal set !im to fig!t at daggers wit! a young S!erari, *aug!t stealing on t!e mar*!) ut after a s*rat*! t!e prisoner t!rew !imself down weeping# 0ow !e was a nuisan*e, for if we left !im !e would give t!e alarm, and send t!e !orsemen of !is village out against us# .f we tied !im up in t!is remote pla*e !e would die of !unger or t!irst) and, esides, we !ad not rope to spare# (o &ill !im seemed unimaginative- not wort!y of a !undred men# At last t!e S!erari oy said if we gave !im s*ope !e would settle !is a**ount and leave !im living# $e looped !is wrist to t!e saddle and trotted !im off wit! us for t!e first !our, till !e was dragging reat!lessly# 'e were still near t!e railway, ut four or five miles from Gerga# (!ere !e was stripped of presenta le *lot!es, w!i*! fell, y point of !onour, to !is owner# (!e S!erari t!rew !im on !is fa*e, pi*&ed up !is feet, drew a dagger, and *!opped !im wit! it deeply a*ross t!e soles# (!e Cir*assian !owled wit! pain and terror, as if !e t!oug!t !e was eing &illed# 8dd as was t!e performan*e, it seemed effe*tive, and more mer*iful t!an deat!# (!e *uts would ma&e !im travel to t!e railway on !ands and &nees, a >ourney of an !our) and !is na&edness would &eep !im in t!e s!adow of t!e ro*&s, till t!e sun was low# $is gratitude was not *o!erent) ut we rode away, a*ross undulations very ri*! in gra+ing# (!e *amels, wit! t!eir !eads down snat*!ing plants and grass, moved un*omforta ly for us *o*&ed over t!e *!ute of t!eir sloped ne*&s) yet we must let t!em eat, sin*e we were mar*!ing eig!ty miles a day, wit! !alts to reat!e only in t!e rief gloamings of dawn and sunset# Soon after daylig!t we turned west, and dismounted, s!ort of t!e railway among ro&en reefs of limestone, to *reep *arefully forward until Atwi station lay eneat! us# .ts two stone !ouses Bt!e first only one !undred yards awayC were in line, one o s*uring t!e ot!er# Men were singing in t!em wit!out dis@uietude# (!eir day was eginning, and from t!e guard-room t!in lue smo&e *urled into t!e air, w!ile a soldier drove out a flo*& of young s!eep to *rop t!e ri*! meadow etween t!e station and t!e valley# (!is flo*& sealed t!e usiness, for after our !orse-diet of dry *orn we *raved meat# (!e Ara s? teet! gritted as t!ey *ounted ten, fifteen, twenty-five, twenty-seven# Gaal dropped into t!e valley ed w!ere t!e line *rossed a ridge, and, wit! a party in file e!ind !im, *rept along till !e fa*ed t!e station a*ross t!e meadow# :rom our ridge we *overed t!e station yard# 'e saw Gaal lean !is rifle on t!e an&, s!ielding !is !ead wit! infinite pre*aution e!ind grasses on t!e rin&# $e too& slow aim at t!e *offee-sipping offi*ers and offi*ials in s!aded *!airs, outside t!e ti*&et offi*e# As !e pressed t!e trigger, t!e report overtoo& t!e *ras! of t!e ullet against t!e stone wall, w!ile t!e fattest man owed slowly in !is *!air and san& to t!e ground under t!e fro+enstare of !is fellows# An instant later Gaal?s men poured in t!eir volleys, ro&e from t!e valley, and rus!ed forward- ut t!e door of t!e nort!ern !ouse *langed to, and rifles egan to spea& from e!ind its steel window s!utters# 'e replied, ut soon saw our impoten*e, and *eased fire, as did t!e enemy# (!e S!erarat drove t!e guilty s!eep eastward into t!e !ills, w!ere were t!e *amels) everyone else ran down to >oin Gaal, w!o was usy a out t!e nearer and undefended uilding#

0ear t!e !eig!t of plundering *ame a pause and pani*# (!e Ara s were su*! a**ustomed s*outs t!at almost t!ey felt danger efore it *ame, sense ta&ing pre*autions efore mind was persuaded# Swinging down t!e line from t!e sout! was a trolley wit! four men, to w!ose ears t!e grinding w!eels !ad deadened our s!ots# (!e "ualla se*tion *rept under a *ulvert t!ree !undred yards up, w!ile t!e rest of us *rowded silently y t!e ridge# (!e trolley rolled unsuspe*tingly over t!e am us!, w!o *ame out to line t!e an& e!ind, w!ile we filed solemnly a*ross t!e green in front# (!e (ur&s slowed in !orror, >umped off, and ran into t!e roug!- ut our rifles *ra*&ed on*e more and t!ey were dead# (!e trolley roug!t to our feet its load of *opper wire and telegrap! tools, wit! w!i*! we put ?eart!s? in t!e long-distan*e wire# Gaal fired our !alf of t!e station, w!ose petrol-splas!ed woodwor& *aug!t freely# (!e plan&s and *lot! !angings twisted and >er&ed *onvulsively as t!e flames li*&ed t!em up# Meanw!ile t!e Ageyl were measuring out gelatine, and soon we lit t!eir *!arges and destroyed a *ulvert, many rails, and furlongs of telegrap!# 'it! t!e roar of t!e first e3plosion our !undred &nee-!altered *amels rose smartly to t!eir feet, and at ea*! following urst !opped more madly on t!ree legs till t!ey s!oo& off t!e rope-!it*! a out t!e fourt!, and drove out every way li&e s*attered starlings into t!e void# C!asing t!em and *!asing t!e s!eep too& us t!ree !ours, for w!i*! gra*iously t!e (ur&s gave law, or some of us would !ave !ad to wal& !ome# 'e put a few miles etween us and t!e railway efore we sat down to our feast of mutton# 'e were s!ort of &nives, and, after &illing t!e s!eep in relay, !ad re*ourse to stray flints to *ut t!em up# As men una**ustomed to su*! e3pedients, we used t!em in t!e eolit!i* spirit) and it *ame to me t!at if iron !ad een *onstantly rare we s!ould !ave *!ipped our daily tools s&ilfully as palasolit!s- w!ilst !ad we !ad no metal w!atever, our art would !ave een lavis!ed on perfe*t and polis!ed stones# 8ur one !undred and ten men ate t!e est parts of twenty-four s!eep at t!e sitting, w!ile t!e *amels rowsed a out, or ate w!at we left over) for t!e est riding-*amels were taug!t to li&e *oo&ed meat# '!en it was finis!ed we mounted, and rode t!roug! t!e nig!t towards %air- w!i*! we entered wit!out *asualty, su**essful, well-fed, and enri*!ed, at dawn#

&()PTE" LII
0asir !ad done great wor&# A wee&?s flour for us !ad *ome from (afile!, to restore our freedom of movement# 'e mig!t well ta&e A&a a efore we starved again# $e !ad good letters from t!e D!umaniye!, t!e Daraus!a, and t!e D!ia at, t!ree $oweitat *lans on 0ag el S!tar, t!e first diffi*ult pass of t!e Maan-A&a a road# (!ey were willing to !elp us, and if t!ey stru*& soon and strongly at A a el 2issan t!e great fa*tor of surprise would pro a ly mean su**ess to t!eir effort# My !opefulness misled me into anot!er mad ride, w!i*! mis*arried# 1et t!e (ur&s did not ta&e alarm# As my party rode in t!ere *ame a messenger post-!aste from 0uri S!aalan# $e roug!t greetings, and 0uri?s news t!at t!e (ur&s !ad *alled upon !is son 0awaf, as guide !ostage, to ta&e four !undred *avalry from Deraa down t!e Sir!an in sear*! of us# 0uri !ad sent !is etter-spared nep!ew (rad, w!o was *ondu*ting t!em y devious routes in w!i*! men and !orses were suffering terri ly from t!irst# (!ey were near 0e &, our old *amping ground# (!e (ur&is! Government would elieve us still in t!e 'adi till t!eir *avalry returned# :or Maan espe*ially t!ey !ad no an3iety sin*e t!e engineers w!o !ad lown up %air reported every sour*e of water utterly destroyed, w!ile t!e wells of /efer !ad een dealt wit! a few days earlier# .t mig!t e t!at /efer really was denied to us) ut we were not wit!out !ope t!at t!ere, too, we s!ould find t!e te*!ni*al wor& of demolition ill-done y t!ese pitiful (ur&s# D!aif-Alla!, a leading man of t!e /a+i $oweitat, one w!o *ame down to 'e>! and swore allegian*e, !ad een present in /efer w!en t!e ;ing?s 'ell was fired y dynamite pla*ed a out its lip) and sent us se*ret word from Maan t!at !e !ad !eard t!e upper stones *lap toget!er and &ey over t!e mout! of t!e well# $is *onvi*tion was t!at t!e s!aft was inta*t, and t!e *learing of it a few !ours? wor&# 'e !oped so) and rode away from %air all in order, on /une t!e twenty-eig!t!, to find out#

Hui*&ly we *rossed t!e weird plain of /efer# 0e3t day y noon we were at t!e wells# (!ey seemed most t!oroug!ly destroyed) and t!e fear grew t!at we mig!t find in t!em t!e first *!e*& to our s*!eme of operations, a s*!eme so mu*! too ela orate t!at a *!e*& mig!t e far rea*!ing# $owever, we went to t!e well--Auda?s family property--of w!i*! D!aif Alla! !ad told us t!e tale, and egan to sound a out it# (!e ground rang !ollow under our mallet, and we *alled for volunteers a le to dig and uild# Some of t!e Ageyl *ame forward, led y t!e Mir+ugi, a *apa le *amel oy of 0asir?s# (!ey started wit! t!e few tools we !ad# (!e rest of us formed a ring round t!e well-depression and wat*!ed t!em wor&, singing to t!em and promising rewards of gold w!en t!ey !ad found t!e water# .t was a !ot tas& in t!e full glare of t!e summer sun) for t!e /efer plain was of !ard mud, flat as t!e !and, linding w!ite wit! salt, and twenty miles a*ross) ut time pressed, e*ause if we failed we mig!t !ave to ride fifty miles in t!e nig!t to t!e ne3t well# So we pus!ed t!e wor& y relays at speed t!roug! t!e midday !eat, turning into la ourers all our amena le fellows# .t made easy digging, for t!e e3plosion w!i*! s!ifted t!e stones !ad loosened t!e soil# As t!ey dug and t!rew out t!e eart!, t!e *ore of t!e well rose up li&e a tower of roug! stones in t!e *entre of t!e pit# <ery *arefully we egan to ta&e away t!e ruined !ead of t!e pile- diffi*ult wor&, for t!e stones !ad e*ome interlo*&ed in t!eir fall) ut t!is was t!e etter sign, and our spirits rose# %efore sunset t!e wor&ers s!outed t!at t!ere was no more pa*&ing-soil, t!at t!e intersti*es etween t!e lo*&s were *lear, and t!ey !eard t!e mud fragments w!i*! slipped t!roug! splas!ing many feet elow# $alf an !our later *ame a rus! and rum le of stones in t!e mout!, followed y a !eavy splas! and yells# 'e !urried down, and y t!e Mir+ugi?s tor*! saw t!e well yawning open, no longer a tu e, ut a deep ottle-s!ouldered pit, twenty feet a*ross at t!e ottom, w!i*! was la*& wit! water and w!ite in t!e middle wit! spray w!ere t!e Ageyli w!o !ad een *learing w!en t!e &ey slipped was stri&ing out lustily in t!e effort not to drown# 4very ody laug!ed down t!e well at !im, till at last A dulla lowered !im a noose of rope, and we drew !im up, very wet and angry , ut in no way damaged y !is fall# 'e rewarded t!e diggers, and feasted t!em on a wea& *amel, w!i*! !ad failed in t!e mar*! to-day) and t!en all nig!t we watered, w!ile a s@uad of Ageyl, wit! a long *!orus, steyned up to ground level an eig!t-foot t!roat of mud and stones# At dawn t!e eart! was stamped in round t!is, and t!e well stood *omplete, as fit in appearan*e as ever# 8nly t!e water was not very mu*!# 'e wor&ed it t!e twenty-four !ours wit!out rest, and ran it to a *ream) and still some of our *amels were not satisfied# :rom /efer we too& a*tion# "iders went forward into t!e D!umaniye! tents to lead t!eir promised atta*& against :uweila!, t!e lo*&-!ouse w!i*! *overed t!e !ead of t!e pass of A a el 2issan# 8ur atta*& was planned for two days efore t!e wee&ly *aravan w!i*!, from Maan, replenis!ed t!e *lient garrisons# Starvation would ma&e redu*tion of t!ese distant pla*es easier, y impressing on t!em !ow !opelessly t!ey were *ut off from t!eir friends# 'e sat in /efer meanw!ile, waiting to !ear t!e fortune of t!e atta*&# 8n its su**ess or failure would depend t!e dire*tion of our ne3t mar*!# (!e !alt was not unpleasant, for our position !ad its *omi* side# 'e were wit!in sig!t of Maan, during t!ose minutes of t!e day in w!i*! t!e mirage did not ma&e eyes and glasses useless) and yet we strolled a out admiring our new well-lip in *omplete se*urity, e*ause t!e (ur&is! garrison elieved water impossi le !ere or at %air, and were !ugging t!e pleasant idea t!at we were now desperately engaged wit ! t!eir *avalry in Sir!an# . !id under some us!es near t!e well for !ours, against t!e !eat, very la+y, pretending to e asleep, t!e wide sil& sleeve of my pillow-arm drawn over my fa*e as veil against t!e flies# Auda sat up and tal&ed li&e a river, telling !is est stories in great form# At last . reproved !im wit! a smile, for tal&ing too mu*! and doing too little# $e su*&ed !is lips wit! pleasure of t!e wor& to *ome# .n t!e following dawn a tired !orseman rode into our *amp wit! news t!at t!e D!umaniye! !ad fired on t!e :uweila! post t!e afternoon efore as soon as our men !ad rea*!ed t!em# (!e surprise !ad not een @uite *omplete) t!e (ur&s manned t!eir dry stone reastwor&s and drove t!em off# (!e

*restfallen Ara s drew a*& into *over, and t!e enemy elieving it only an ordinary tri al affray, !ad made a mounted sortie upon t!e nearest en*ampment# 8ne old man, si3 women and seven *!ildren were its only o**upants# .n t!eir anger at finding not!ing a*tively !ostile or a le- odied, t!e troopers smas!ed up t!e *amp and *ut t!e t!roats of its !elpless ones# (!e D!umaniye! on t!e !ill-tops !eard and saw not!ing till it was too late) ut t!en, in t!eir fury, t!ey das!ed down a*ross t!e return road of t!e murderers and *ut t!em off almost to t!e last man# (o *omplete t!eir vengean*e t!ey assaulted t!e now wea&ly-garrisoned fort, *arried it in t!e first fier*eness of t!eir rus!, and too& no prisoners# 'e were ready saddled) and wit!in ten minutes !ad loaded and mar*!ed for G!adir el $a>, t!e first railway station sout! of Maan, on our dire*t road for A a el 2issan# Simultaneously, we deta*!ed a small party to *ross t!e railway >ust a ove Maan and *reate a diversion on t!at side# 4spe*ially t!ey were to t!reaten t!e great !erds of si*& *amels, *asualties of t!e ,alestine front, w!i*! t!e (ur&s pastured in t!e S!o e& plain s till on*e more fit for servi*e# 'e *al*ulated t!at t!e news of t!eir :uweila! disaster would not !ave rea*!ed Maan till t!e morning, and t!at t!ey *ould not drive in t!ese *amels Bsupposing our nort!ern party missed t!emC and fit out a relief e3pedition, efore nig!tfall) and if we were t!en atta*&ing t!e line at G!adir el $a>, t!ey would pro a ly divert t!e relief t!it!er, and so let us move on A&a a unmolested# 'it! t!is !ope we rode steadily t!roug! t!e flowing mirage till afternoon, w!en we des*ended on t!e line) and, !aving delivered a long stret*! of it from guards and patrols, egan on t!e many ridges of t!e *aptured se*tion# (!e little garrison of G!adir el $a> sallied out wit! t!e valour of ignoran*e against us, ut t!e !eat-!a+e linded t!em, and we drove t!em off wit! loss# (!ey were on t!e telegrap!, and would notify Maan, w!i*! eside, *ould not fail to !ear t!e repeated t!uds of our e3plosion# .t was our aim to ring t!e enemy down upon us in t!e nig!t) or rat!er down !ere, w!ere t!ey would find no people ut many ro&en ridges, for we wor&ed fast and did great damage# (!e drainage !oles in t!e spandrils !eld from t!ree to five pounds of gelatine ea*!# 'e, firing our mines y s!ort fuses, roug!t down t!e ar*!, s!attered t!e pier, and stripped t!e side walls, in no more t!an si3 minutes? wor&# So we ruined ten ridges and many rails, and finis!ed our e3plosive# After dus&, w!en our departure *ould not e seen, we rode five miles westward of t!e line, to *over# (!ere we made fires and a&ed read# 8ur meal, !owever, was not *oo&ed efore t!ree !orsemen *antered up to report t!at a long *olumn of new troops--infantry and guns--!ad >ust appeared at Al a el 2issan from Maan# (!e D!umaniye!, disorgani+ed wit! vi*tory, !ad !ad to a andon t!eir ground wit!out fig!ting# (!ey were at %atra waiting for us# 'e !ad lost A a el 2issan, t!e lo*&!ouse, t!e pass, t!e *ommand of t!e A&a a road- wit!out a s!ot eing fired# 'e learned afterwards t!at t!is unwel*ome and unwonted vigour on t!e part of t!e (ur&s was a**ident# A relief attalion !ad rea*!ed Maan t!at very day# (!e news of an Ara demonstration against :uweila! arrived simultaneously) and t!e attalion, w!i*! !appened to e formed up ready wit! its transport in t!e station yard, to mar*! to arra*&s, was !urriedly strengt!ened y a se*tion of pa*& artillery and some mounted men, and moved straig!t out as a punitive *olumn to res*ue t!e supposedly esieged post# (!ey !ad left Maan in mid-morning and mar*!ed gently along t!e motor road, t!e men sweating in t!e !eat of t!is sout! *ountry after t!eir native Cau*asian snows, and drin&ing t!irstily of every spring# :rom A a el 2issan t!ey *lim ed up!ill towards t!e old lo*&!ouse, w!i*! was deserted e3*ept for t!e silent vultures flying a ove its walls in slow uneasy rings# (!e attalion *ommander feared lest t!e sig!t e too mu*! for !is young troops, and led t!em a*& to t!e roadside spring of A a el 2issan, in its serpentine narrow valley, w!ere t!ey *amped all nig!t in pea*e a out t!e water#

&()PTE" LIII
Su*! news s!oo& us into @ui*& life# 'e t!rew our aggage a*ross our *amels on t!e instant and set out over t!e rolling downs of t!is end of t!e ta leland of Syria# 8ur !ot read was in our !ands, and, as we ate, t!ere mingled wit! it t!e taste of t!e dust of our large for*e *rossing t!e valley ottoms, and some taint of t!e strange &een smell of t!e wormwood w!i*! overgrew t!e slopes# .n t!e reat!less air of t!ese evenings in t!e !ills, after t!e long days of summer, everyt!ing stru*& very a*utely on t!e senses- and w!en mar*!ing in a great *olumn, as we were, t!e front *amels &i*&ed up t!e aromati* dust-laden ran*!es of t!e s!ru s, w!ose s*ent-parti*les rose into t!e air and !ung in a long mist, ma&ing fragrant t!e road of t!ose e!ind# (!e slopes were *lean wit! t!e s!arpness of wormwood, and t!e !ollows oppressive wit! t!e ri*!ness of t!eir stronger, more lu3uriant growt!s# 8ur nig!t-passage mig!t !ave een t!roug! a planted garden, and t!ese varieties part of t!e unseen eauty of su**essive an&s of flowers# (!e noises too were very *lear# Auda ro&e out singing, away in front, and t!e men >oined in from time to time, wit! t!e greatness, t!e *at*! at !eart, of an army moving into attle# 'e rode all nig!t, and w!en dawn *ame were dismounting on t!e *rest of t!e !ills etween %atra and A a el 2issan, wit! a wonderful view westwards over t!e green and gold Guweira plain, and eyond it to t!e ruddy mountains !iding A&a a and t!e sea# Gasim a u Dumei&, !ead of t!e D!umaniye!, was waiting an3iously for us, surrounded y !is !ard- itten tri esmen, t!eir grey strained fa*es fle*&ed wit! t!e lood of t!e fig!ting yesterday# (!ere was a deep greeting for Auda and 0asir# 'e made !urried plans, and s*attered to t!e wor&, &nowing we *ould not go forward to A&a a wit! t!is attalion in possession of t!e pass# 9nless we dislodged it, our two mont!s? !a+ard and effort would fail efore yielding even first-fruits# :ortunately t!e poor !andling of t!e enemy gave us an unearned advantage# (!ey slept on, in t!e valley, w!ile we *rowned t!e !ills in wide *ir*le a out t!em uno served# 'e egan to snipe t!em steadily in t!eir positions under t!e slopes and ro*&-fa*es y t!e water, !oping to provo&e t!em out and up t!e !ill in a *!arge against us# Meanw!ile, Gaal rode away wit! our !orsemen and *ut t!e Maan telegrap! and telep!one in t!e plain# (!is went on all day# .t was terri ly !ot--!otter t!an ever efore . !ad felt it in Ara ia--and t!e an3iety and *onstant moving made it !ard for us# Some even of t!e toug! tri esmen ro&e down under t!e *ruelty of t!e sun, and *rawled or !ad to e t!rown under ro*&s to re*over in t!eir s!ade# 'e ran up and down to supply our la*& of num ers y mo ility, ever loo&ing over t!e long ranges of !ill for a new spot from w!i*! to *ounter t!is or t!at (ur&is! effort# (!e !ill-sides were steep, and e3!austed our reat!, and t!e grasses twined li&e little !ands a out our an&les as we ran, and plu*&ed us a*&# (!e s!arp reefs of limestone w!i*! *ropped out over t!e ridges tore our feet, and long efore evening t!e more energeti* men were leaving a rusty print upon t!e ground wit! every stride# 8ur rifles grew so !ot wit! sun and s!ooting t!at t!ey seared our !ands) and we !ad to e grudging of our rounds, *onsidering every s!ot and spending great pains to ma&e it sure# (!e ro*&s on w!i*! we flung ourselves for aim were urning, so t!at t!ey s*or*!ed our reasts and arms, from w!i*! later t!e s&in drew off in ragged s!eets# (!e present smart made us t!irst# 1et even water was rare wit! us) we *ould not afford men to fet*! enoug! from %atra, and if all *ould not drin&, it was etter t!at none s!ould# 'e *onsoled ourselves wit! &nowledge t!at t!e enemy?s en*losed valley would e !otter t!an our open !ills- also t!at t!ey were (ur&s, men of w!ite meat, little apt for warm weat!er# So we *lung to t!em, and did not let t!em move or mass or sortie out against us *!eaply# (!ey *ould do not!ing valid in return# 'e were no targets for t!eir rifles, sin*e we moved wit! speed, e**entri*ally# Also we were a le to laug! at t!e little mountain guns w!i*! t!ey fired up at us# (!e s!ells passed over our !eads, to urst e!ind us in t!e air) and yet, of *ourse, for all t!at t!ey *ould see from t!eir !ollow pla*e, fairly amongst us a ove t!e !ostile summits of t!e !ill# /ust after noon . !ad a !eat-stro&e, or so pretended, for . was dead weary of it all, and *ared no longer

!ow it went# So . *rept into a !ollow w!ere t!ere was a tri*&le of t!i*& water in a muddy *up of t!e !ills, to su*& some moisture off its dirt t!roug! t!e filter of my sleeve# 0asir >oined me, panting li&e a winded animal, wit! !is *ra*&ed and leeding lips s!run& apart in !is distress- and old Auda appeared, striding powerfully, !is eyes loods!ot and staring, !is &notty fa*e wor&ing wit! e3*itement# $e grinned wit! mali*e w!en !e saw us lying t!ere, spread out to find *oolness under t!e an&, and *roa&ed at me !ars!ly, ?'ell, !ow is it wit! t!e $oweitatJ All tal& and no wor&J? ?%y God, indeed,? spat . a*& again, for . was angry wit! everyone and wit! myself, ?t!ey s!oot a lot and !it a little#? Auda almost pale wit! rage, and trem ling, tore !is !ead-*lot! off and t!rew it on t!e ground eside me# (!en !e ran a*& up t!e !ill li&e a madman, s!outing to t!e men in !is dreadful strained and rustling voi*e# (!ey *ame toget!er to !im, and after a moment s*attered away down!ill# . feared t!ings were going wrong, and struggled to w!ere !e stood alone on t!e !ill-top, glaring at t!e enemy- ut all !e would say to me was, ?Get your *amel if you want to see t!e old man?s wor&?# 0asir *alled for !is *amel and we mounted# (!e Ara s passed efore us into a little sun&en pla*e, w!i*! rose to a low *rest) and we &new t!at t!e !ill eyond went down in a fa*ile slope to t!e main valley of A a el 2issan, somew!at elow t!e spring# All our four !undred *amel men were !ere tig!tly *olle*ted, >ust out of sig!t of t!e enemy# 'e rode to t!eir !ead, and as&ed t!e S!imt w!at it was and w!ere t!e !orsemen !ad gone# $e pointed over t!e ridge to t!e ne3t valley a ove us, and said, ?'it! Auda t!ere?- and as !e spo&e yells and s!ots poured up in a sudden torrent from eyond t!e *rest# 'e &i*&ed our *amels furiously to t!e edge, to see our fifty !orsemen *oming down t!e last slope into t!e main valley li&e a run-away, at full gallop, s!ooting from t!e saddle# As we wat*!ed, two or t!ree went down, ut t!e rest t!undered forward at marvellous speed, and t!e (ur&is! infantry, !uddled toget!er under t!e *liff ready to *ut t!eir desperate way out towards Maan, in t!e first dus& egan to sway in and out, and finally ro&e efore t!e rus!, adding t!eir flig!t to Auda?s *!arge# 0asir s*reamed at me, ?Come on?, wit! !is loody mout!) and we plunged our *amels madly over t!e !ill, and down towards t!e !ead of t!e fleeing enemy# (!e slope was not too steep for a *amel-gallop, ut steep enoug! to ma&e t!eir pa*e terrifi*, and t!eir *ourse un*ontrolla le- yet t!e Ara s were a le to e3tend to rig!t and left and to s!oot into t!e (ur&is! rown# (!e (ur&s !ad een too ound up in t!e terror of Auda?s furious *!arge against t!eir rear to noti*e us as we *ame over t!e eastward slopeso we also too& t!em y surprise and in t!e flan&) and a *!arge of ridden *amels going nearly t!irty miles an !our was irresisti le# My *amel, t!e S!erari ra*er, 0aama, stret*!ed !erself out, and !urled down!ill wit! su*! mig!t t!at we soon out-distan*ed t!e ot!ers# (!e (ur&s fired a few s!ots, ut mostly only s!rie&ed and turned to run- t!e ullets t!ey did send at us were not very !armful, for it too& mu*! to ring a *!arging *amel down in a dead !eap# . !ad got among t!e first of t!em, and was s!ooting, wit! a pistol of *ourse, for only an e3pert *ould use a rifle from su*! plunging easts) w!en suddenly my *amel tripped and went down emptily upon !er fa*e, as t!oug! pole-a3ed# . was torn *ompletely from t!e saddle, sailed grandly t!roug! t!e air for a great distan*e, and landed wit! a *ras! w!i*! seemed to drive all t!e power and feeling out of me# . lay t!ere, passively waiting for t!e (ur&s to &ill me, *ontinuing to !um over t!e verses of a !alfforgotten poem, w!ose r!yt!m somet!ing, per!aps t!e prolonged stride of t!e *amel, !ad roug!t a*& to my memory as we leaped down t!e !ill-side:or 2ord . was free of all (!y flowers, ut . *!ose t!e world?s sad roses, And t!at is w!y my feet are torn and mine eyes are lind wit! sweat# '!ile anot!er part of my mind t!oug!t w!at a s@uas!ed t!ing . s!ould loo& w!en all t!at *atara*t of men and *amels !ad poured over# After a long time . finis!ed my poem, and no (ur&s *ame, and no *amel trod on me- a *urtain seemed

ta&en from my ears- t!ere was a great noise in front# . sat up and saw t!e attle over, and our men driving toget!er and *utting down t!e last remnants of t!e enemy# My *amel?s ody !ad lain e!ind me li&e a ro*& and divided t!e *!arge into two streams- and in t!e a*& of its s&ull was t!e !eavy ullet of t!e fift! s!ot . fired# Mo!ammed roug!t 8 eyd, my spare *amel, and 0asir *ame a*& leading t!e (ur&is! *ommander, w!om !e !ad res*ued, wounded, from Mo!ammed el D!eilan?s wrat!# (!e silly man !ad refused to surrender, and was trying to restore t!e day for !is side wit! a po*&et pistol# (!e $oweitat were very fier*e, for t!e slaug!ter of t!eir women on t!e day efore !ad een a new and !orri le side of warfare suddenly revealed to t!em# So t!ere were only a !undred and si3ty prisoners, many of t!em wounded) and t!ree !undred dead and dying were s*attered over t!e open valleys#

A few of t!e enemy got away, t!e gunners on t!eir teams, and some mounted men and offi*ers wit! t!eir /a+i guides# Mo!ammed el D!eilan *!ased t!em for t!ree miles into Mreig!a, !urling insults as !e rode, t!at t!ey mig!t &now !im and &eep out of !is way# (!e feud of Auda and !is *ousins !ad never applied to Mo!ammed, t!e politi*al-minded, w!o s!owed friends!ip to all men of !is tri e w!en !e was alone to do so# Among t!e fugitives was D!aif-Alla!, w!o !ad done us t!e good turn a out t!e ;ing?s 'ell at /efer# Auda *ame swinging up on foot, !is eyes gla+ed over wit! t!e rapture of attle, and t!e words u ling wit! in*o!erent speed from !is mout!# ?'or&, wor&, w!ere are words, wor&, ullets, A u (ayi? # # # and !e !eld up !is s!attered field-glasses, !is pier*ed pistol-!olster, and !is leat!er swords*a ard *ut to ri ons# $e !ad een t!e target of a volley w!i*! !ad &illed !is mare under !im, ut t!e si3 ullets t!roug! !is *lot!es !ad left !im s*at!less# $e told me later, in stri*t *onfiden*e, t!at t!irteen years efore !e !ad oug!t an amulet ;oran for one !undred and twenty pounds and !ad not sin*e een wounded# .ndeed, Deat! !ad avoided !is fa*e, and gone s*urvily a out &illing rot!ers, sons and followers# (!e oo& was a Glasgow reprodu*tion, *osting eig!teen pen*e) utAuda?s deadliness did not let people laug! at !is su perstition# $e was wildly pleased wit! t!e fig!t, most of all e*ause !e !ad *onfounded me and s!own w!at !is tri e *ould do# Mo!ammed was wrot! wit! us for a pair of fools, *alling me worse t!an Auda, sin*e .

!ad insulted !im y words li&e flung stones to provo&e t!e folly w!i*! !ad nearly &illed us allt!oug! it !ad &illed only two of us, one "ueili and one S!erari# .t was, of *ourse, a pity to lose any one of our men, ut time was of importan*e to us, and so imperative was t!e need of dominating Maan, to s!o*& t!e little (ur&is! garrisons etween us and t!e sea into surrender, t!at . would !ave willingly lost mu*! more t!an two# 8n o**asions li&e t!is Deat! >ustified !imself and was *!eap# . @uestioned t!e prisoners a out t!emselves, and t!e troops in Maan) ut t!e nerve *risis !ad een too severe for t!em# Some gaped at me and some ga led, w!ile ot!ers, wit! !elpless weepings, em ra*ed my &nees, protesting at every word from us t!at t!ey were fellow Moslems and my rot!ers in t!e fait!# :inally . got angry and too& one of t!em aside and was roug! to !im, s!o*&ing !im y new pain into a !alf-understanding, w!en !e answered well enoug!, and reassuringly, t!at t!eir attalion was t!e only reinfor*ement, and it merely a reserve attalion) t!e two *ompanies in Maan would not suffi*e to defend its perimeter# (!is meant we *ould ta&e it easily, and t!e $oweitat *lamoured to e led t!ere, lured y t!e dream of unmeasured loot, t!oug! w!at we !ad ta&en !ere was a ri*! pri+e# $owever, 0asir, and afterwards Auda, !elped me stay t!em# 'e !ad no supports, no regulars, no guns, no ase nearer t!an 'e>!, no *ommuni*ations, no money even, for our gold was e3!austed, and we were issuing our own notes, promises to pay ?w!en A&a a is ta&en?, for daily e3penses# %esides, a strategi* s*!eme was not *!anged to follow up a ta*ti*al su**ess# 'e must pus! to t!e *oast, and re-open sea-*onta*t wit! Sue+# 1et it would e good to alarm Maan furt!er- so we sent mounted men to Mrieg!a and too& it) and to 'a!eida and too& it# 0ews of t!is advan*e, of t!e loss of t!e *amels on t!e S!o e& road, of t!e demolition of 4l $a>, and of t!e massa*re of t!eir relieving attalion all *ame to Maan toget!er, and *aused a very proper pani*# (!e military !ead@uarters wired for !elp, t!e *ivil aut!orities loaded t!eir offi*ial ar*!ive into tru*&s, and left, !ot-speed, for Damas*us#

&()PTE" LI+
Meanw!ile our Ara s !ad plundered t!e (ur&s, t!eir aggage train, and t!eir *amp) and soon after moonrise, Auda *ame to us and said t!at we must move# .t angered 0asir and myself# (o-nig!t t!ere was a dewy west wind lowing, and at A a el 2issan?s four t!ousand feet, after t!e !eat and urning passion of t!e day, its damp *!ill stru*& very s!arply on our wounds and ruises# (!e spring itself was a t!read of silvery water in a runnel of pe les a*ross delig!tful turf, green and soft, on w!i*! we lay, wrapped in our *loa&s, wondering if somet!ing to eat were wort! preparing- for we were su >e*t at t!e moment to t!e p!ysi*al s!ame of su**ess, a rea*tion of vi*tory, w!en it e*ame *lear t!at not!ing was wort! doing, and t!at not!ing wort!y !ad een done# Auda insisted# ,artly it was superstition--!e feared t!e newly-dead around us) partly lest t!e (ur&s return in for*e) partly lest ot!er *lans of t!e $oweitat ta&e us, lying t!ere ro&en and asleep# Some were !is lood enemies) ot!ers mig!t say t!ey *ame to !elp our attle, and in t!e dar&ness t!oug!t we were (ur&s and fired lindly# So we roused ourselves, and >ogged t!e sorry prisoners into line# Most !ad to wal&# Some twenty *amels were dead or dying from wounds w!i*! t!ey !ad got in t!e *!arge, and ot!ers were over wea& to ta&e a dou le urden# (!e rest were loaded wit! an Ara and a (ur&) ut some of t!e (ur&is! wounded were too !urt to !old t!emselves on pillion# .n t!e end we !ad to leave a out twenty on t!e t!i*& grass eside t!e rivulet, w!ere at least t!ey would not die of t!irst, t!oug! t!ere was little !ope of life or res*ue for t!em# 0asir set !imself to eg lan&ets for t!ese a andoned men, w!o were !alf-na&ed) and w!ile t!e Ara s pa*&ed, . went off down t!e valley w!ere t!e fig!t !ad een, to see if t!e dead !ad any *lot!ing t!ey *ould spare# %ut t!e %eduin !ad een efore!and wit! me, and !ad stripped t!em to t!e s&in# Su*! was t!eir point of !onour#

(o an Ara an essential part of t!e triump! of vi*tory was to wear t!e *lot!es of an enemy- and ne3t day we saw our for*e transformed Bas to t!e upper !alfC into a (ur&is! for*e, ea*! man in a soldier?s tuni*- for t!is was a attalion straig!t from !ome, very well found and dressed in new uniforms# (!e dead men loo&ed wonderfully eautiful# (!e nig!t was s!ining gently down, softening t!em into new ivory# (ur&s were w!ite-s&inned on t!eir *lot!ed parts, mu*! w!iter t!an t!e Ara s) and t!ese soldiers !ad een very young# Close round t!em lapped t!e dar& wormwood, now !eavy wit! dew, in w!i*! t!e ends of t!e moon eams spar&led li&e sea-spray# (!e *orpses seemed flung so pitifully on t!e ground, !uddled any!ow in low !eaps# Surely if straig!tened t!ey would e *omforta le at last# So . put t!em all in order, one y one, very wearied myself, and longing to e of t!ese @uiet ones, not of t!e restless, noisy, a*!ing mo up t!e valley, @uarrelling over t!e plunder, oasting of t!eir speed and strengt! to endure God &new !ow many toils and pains of t!is sort) wit! deat!, w!et!er we won or lost, waiting to end t!e !istory# .n t!e end our little army was ready, and wound slowly up t!e !eig!t and eyond into a !ollow s!eltered from t!e wind) and t!ere, w!ile t!e tired men slept, we di*tated letters to t!e S!ei&!s of t!e *oastal $oweitat, telling t!em of t!e vi*tory, t!at t!ey mig!t invest t!eir nearest (ur&s, and !old t!em till we *ame# 'e !ad een &ind to one of t!e *aptured offi*ers, a poli*eman despised y !is regular *olleagues, and !im we persuaded to e our (ur&is! s*ri e to t!e *ommandants of Guweira, ;et!era, and $adra, t!e t!ree posts etween us and A&a a, telling t!em t!at if our lood was not !ot we too& prisoners, and t!at prompt surrender would ensure t!eir good treatment and safe delivery to 4gypt# (!is lasted till dawn, and t!en Auda mars!alled us for t!e road, and led us up t!e last mile of soft !eat!-*lad valley etween t!e rounded !ills# .t was intimate and !omeli&e till t!e last green an&) w!en suddenly we reali+ed it was t!e last, and eyond lay not!ing ut *lear air# (!e lovely *!ange t!is time *!e*&ed me wit! ama+ement) and afterwards, !owever often we *ame, t!ere was always a *at*! of eagerness in t!e mind, a pri*&ing forward of t!e *amel and straig!tening up to see again over t!e *rest into openness# S!tar !ill-side swooped away elow us for !undreds and !undreds of feet, in *urves li&e astions, against w!i*! summer-morning *louds were rea&ing- and from its foot opened t!e new eart! of t!e Guweira plain# A a el 2issan?s rounded limestone reasts were *overed wit! soil and !eat!, green, well watered# Guweira was a map of pin& sand, rus!ed over wit! strea&s of water*ourses, in a mantle of s*ru - and, out of t!is, and ounding t!is, towered islands and *liffs of glowing sandstone, wind-s*arped and rain-furrowed,tinted *elestially y t!e early sun# After days of travel on t!e plateau in prison valleys, to meet t!is rin& of freedom was a rewarding vision, li&e a window in t!e wall of Me# 'e wal&ed down t!e w!ole +ig+ag pass of S!tar, to feel its e3*ellen*e, for on our *amels we ro*&ed too mu*! wit! sleep to dare see anyt!ing# At t!e ottom t!e animals found a matted t!orn w!i*! gave t!eir >aws pleasure) we in front made a !alt, rolled on to sand soft as a *ou*!, and in*ontinently slept# Auda *ame# 'e pleaded t!at it was for mer*y upon our ro&en prisoners# $e replied t!at t!ey alone would die of e3!austion if we rode, ut if we dallied, ot! parties mig!t die- for truly t!ere was now little water and no food# $owever, we *ould not !elp it, and stopped t!at nig!t s!ort of Guweira, after only fifteen miles# At Guweira lay S!ei&! i n /ad, alan*ing !is poli*y to *ome down wit! t!e stronger- and to-day we were t!e stronger, and t!e old fo3 was ours# $e met us wit! !oneyed spee*!es# (!e !undred and twenty (ur&s of t!e garrison were !is prisoners) we agreed wit! !im to *arry t!em at !is leisure and t!eir ease to A&a a# (o-day was t!e fourt! of /uly# (ime pressed us, for we were !ungry, and A&a a was still far a!ead e!ind two defen*es# (!e nearer post, ;et!ira, stu ornly refused parley wit! our flags# (!eir *liff *ommanded t!e valley--a strong pla*e w!i*! it mig!t e *ostly to ta&e# 'e assigned t!e !onour, in irony, to i n /ad and !is unwearied men, advising !im to try it after dar&# $e s!ran&, made diffi*ulties, pleaded t!e full moon- ut we *ut !ardly into t!is e3*use, promising t!at to-nig!t for a w!ile t!ere s!ould e no moon# %y my diary t!ere was an e*lipse# Duly it *ame, and t!e Ara s for*ed

t!e post wit!out loss, w!ile t!e superstitious soldiers were firing rifles and *langing *opper pots to res*ue t!e t!reatened satellite# "eassured we set out a*ross t!e strandli&e plain# 0ia+i %ey, t!e (ur&is! attalion *ommander, was 0asir?s guest, to spare !im t!e !umiliation of %eduin *ontempt# 0ow !e sidled up y me, and, !is swollen eyelids and long nose etraying t!e moroseness of t!e man, egan to *omplain t!at an Ara !ad insulted !im wit! a gross (ur&is! word# . apologi+ed, pointing out t!at it must !ave een learnt from t!e mout! of one of !is (ur&is! fellow-governors# (!e Ara was repaying Caesar# Caesar, not satisfied, pulled from !is po*&et a wi+ened !un*! of read to as& if it was fit rea&fast for a (ur&is! offi*er# My !eavenly twins, foraging in Guweira, !ad oug!t, found, or stolen a (ur&is! soldier?s ration loaf) and we !ad @uartered it# . said it was not rea&fast, ut lun*! and dinner, and per!aps to-morrow?s meals as well# ., a staff offi*er of t!e %ritis! Army Bnot less well fed t!an t!e (ur&is!C, !ad eaten mine wit! t!e relis! of vi*tory# .t was defeat, not read, w!i*! stu*& in !is gullet, and . egged !im not to lame me for t!e issue of a attle imposed on ot! our !onours# (!e narrows of 'adi .tm in*reased in intri*ate ruggedness as we penetrated deeper# %elow ;et!ira we found (ur&is! post after (ur&is! post, empty# (!eir men !ad een drawn in to ;!adra, t!e entren*!ed position Bat t!e mout! of .tmC, w!i*! *overed A&a a so well against a landing from t!e sea# 9nfortunately for t!em t!e enemy !ad never imagined atta*& from t!e interior, and of a!l t!eir great wor&s not one tren*! or post fa*ed inland# 8ur advan*e from so new a dire*tion t!rew t!em into pani*# .n t!e afternoon we were in *onta*t wit! t!is main position, and !eard from t!e lo*al Ara s t!at t!e su sidiary posts a out A&a a !ad een *alled in or redu*ed, so t!at only a last t!ree !undred men arred us from t!e sea# 'e dismounted for a *oun*il, to !ear t!at t!e enemy were resisting firmly, in om -proof tren*!es wit! a new artesian well# 8nly it was rumoured t!at t!ey !ad little food# 0o more !ad we# .t was a deadlo*&# 8ur *oun*il swayed t!is way and t!at# Arguments i*&ered etween t!e prudent and t!e old# (empers were s!ort and odies restless in t!e in*andes*ent gorge w!ose granite pea&s radiated t!e sun in a myriad s!immering points of lig!t, and into t!e dept!s of w!ose tortuous ed no wind *ould *ome to relieve t!e slow saturation of t!e air wit! !eat# 8ur num ers !ad swollen dou le# So t!i*&ly did t!e men *rowd in t!e narrow spa*e, and press a out us, t!at we ro&e up our *oun*il twi*e or t!ri*e, partly e*ause it was not good t!ey s!ould over!ear us wrangling, partly e*ause in t!e sweltering *onfinement our unwas!ed smells offended us# (!roug! our !eads t!e !eavy pulses t!ro ed li&e *lo*&s# 'e sent t!e (ur&s summonses, first y w!ite flag, and t!en y (ur&is! prisoners, ut t!ey s!ot at ot!# (!is inflamed our %eduin, and w!ile we were yet deli erating a sudden wave of t!em urst up on to t!e ro*&s and sent a !ail of ullets spattering against t!e enemy# 0asir ran out arefoot, to stop t!em, ut after ten steps on t!e urning ground s*ree*!ed for sandals) w!ile . *rou*!ed in my atom of s!adow, too wearied of t!ese men Bw!ose minds all wore my liveryC to *are w!o regulated t!eir fe rile impulses# $owever, 0asir prevailed easily# :arra> and Daud !ad een ringleaders# :or *orre*tion t!ey were set on s*or*!ing ro*&s till t!ey s!ould eg pardon# Daud yielded immediately) ut :arra>, w!o, for all !is soft form, was of w!ip*ord and mu*! t!e master-spirit of t!e two, laug!ed from !is first ro*&, sat out t!e se*ond sullenly, and gave way wit! a ad gra*e only w!en ordered to a t!ird# $is stu ornness s!ould !ave een stringently visited- ut t!e only punis!ment possi le to our !ands in t!is vagrant Me was *orporal, w!i*! !ad een tried upon t!e pair so often and so uselessly t!at . was si*& of it# .f *onfined t!is side of *ruelty t!e surfa*e pain seemed only to irritate t!eir mus*les into a*tivities wilder t!an t!ose for w!i*! t!ey !ad een *ondemned# (!eir sins were elvis! gaiety, t!e t!oug!tlessness of un alan*ed yout!, t!e eing !appy w!en we were not) and for su*! follies to !urt t!em mer*ilessly li&e *riminals till t!eir self-*ontrol melted and t!eir man!ood was lost under t!e animal distress of t!eir odies, seemed to me degrading, almost an impiety towards two sunlit eings,

on w!om t!e s!adow of t!e world !ad not yet fallen--t!e most gallan t, t!e most envia le, . &new# 'e !ad a t!ird try to *ommuni*ate wit! t!e (ur&s, y means of a little *ons*ript, w!o said t!at !e understood !ow to do it# $e undressed, and went down t!e valley in little more t!an oots# An !our later !e proudly roug!t us a reply, very polite, saying t!at in two days, if !elp did not *ome from Maan, t!ey would surrender# Su*! folly Bfor we *ould not !old our men indefinitelyC mig!t mean t!e massa*re of every (ur&# . !eld no great rief for t!em, ut it was etter t!ey e not &illed, if only to spare us t!e pain of seeing it# %esides, we mig!t !ave suffered loss# 0ig!t operations in t!e staring moon would e nearly as e3posed as day# 0or was t!is, li&e A a el 2issan, an imperative attle# 'e gave our little man a sovereign as earnest of reward, wal&ed down *lose to t!e tren*!es wit! !im, and sent in for an offi*er to spea& wit! us# After some !esitation t!is was a*!ieved, and we e3plained t!e situation on t!e road e!ind us) our growing for*es) and our s!ort *ontrol over t!eir tempers# (!e ups!ot was t!at t!ey promised to surrender at daylig!t# So we !ad anot!er sleep Ban event rare enoug! to *!roni*leC in spite of our t!irst# 0e3t day at dawn fig!ting ro&e out on all sides, for !undreds more !ill-men, again dou ling our num er, !ad *ome in t!e nig!t) and, not &nowing t!e arrangement, egan s!ooting at t!e (ur&s, w!o defended t!emselves# 0asir went out, wit! i n Dg!eit!ir and !is Ageyl mar*!ing in fours, down t!e open ed of t!e valley# 8ur men *eased fire# (!e (ur&s t!en stopped, for t!eir ran& and file !ad no more fig!t in t!em and no more food, and t!oug!t we were well supplied# So t!e surrender went off @uietly after all# As t!e Ara s rus!ed in to plunder . noti*ed an engineer in grey uniform, wit! red eard and pu++led lue eyes) and spo&e to !im in German# $e was t!e well- orer, and &new no (ur&is!# "e*ent doings !ad ama+ed !im, and !e egged me to e3plain w!at we meant# . said t!at we were a re ellion of t!e Ara s against t!e (ur&s# (!is, it too& !im time to appre*iate# $e wanted to &now w!o was our leader# . said t!e S!erif of Me**a# $e supposed !e would e sent to Me**a# . said rat!er to 4gypt# $e in@uired t!e pri*e of sugar, and w!en . replied, ?*!eap and plentiful?, !e was glad# (!e loss of !is elongings !e too& p!ilosop!i*ally, ut was sorry for t!e well, w!i*! a little wor& would !ave finis!ed as !is monument# $e s!owed me w!ere it was, wit! t!e pump only !alf- uilt# %y pulling on t!e sludge u*&et we drew enoug! deli*ious *lear water to @uen*! our t!irsts# (!en we ra*ed t!roug! a driving sandstorm down to A&a a, four miles furt!er, and splas!ed into t!e sea on /uly t!e si3t!, >ust two mont!s after our setting out from 'e>!#

,##- *I+E. Mar1in/ Time

&()PTE"S L+ T# L.+III
3ur capture of Akaba closed the ,e&a( war, and gave us the task of helping the "ritish invade Syria. The Arabs working from Akaba became virtual right wing of Allenby0s army in Sinai. To mark the changed relation +eisal, with his army, was transferred to Allenby0s command. Allenby now became responsible for his operations and e4uipment. #eanwhile we organi(ed the Akaba area as an unassailable base, from which to hinder the ,e&a( railway.

&()PTE" L+
(!roug! t!e w!irling dust we per*eived t!at A&a a was all a ruin# "epeated om ardments y :ren*! and 4nglis! wars!ips !ad degraded t!e pla*e to its original ru is!# (!e poor !ouses stood a out in a litter, dirty and *ontempti le, la*&ing entirely t!at dignity w!i*! t!e dura ility of t!eir time*!allenging ones *onferred on an*ient remains# 'e wandered into t!e s!adowed grove of palms, at t!e very rea& of t!e splas!ing waves, and t!ere sat down to wat*! our men streaming past as lines of flus!ed va*ant fa*es wit!out message for us# :or mont!s A&a a !ad een t!e !ori+on of our minds, t!e goal- we !ad !ad no t!oug!t, we !ad refused t!oug!t, of anyt!ing eside# 0ow, in a*!ievement, we were a little despising t!e entities w!i*! !ad spent t!eir e3tremest effort on an o >e*t w!ose attainment *!anged not!ing radi*al eit!er in mind or ody# .n t!e lan& lig!t of vi*tory we *ould s*ar*ely identify ourselves# 'e spo&e wit! surprise, sat emptily, fingered upon our w!ite s&irts) dou tful if we *ould understand or learn w!om we were# 8t!ers? noise was a dreamli&e unreality, a singing in ears drowned deep in water# Against t!e astonis!ment of t!is unas&ed-for *ontinued Me we did not &now !ow to turn our gift to a**ount# 4spe*ially for me was it !ard, e*ause t!oug! my sig!t was s!arp, . never saw men?s features- always . peered eyond, imagining for myself a spirit-reality of t!is or t!at- and to-day ea*! man owned !is desire so utterly t!at !e was fulfilled in it, and e*ame meaningless# $unger *alled us out of our tran*e# 'e !ad now seven !undred prisoners in addition to our own five !undred men and two t!ousand e3pe*tant allies# 'e !ad not any money Bor, indeed, a mar&etC) and t!e last meal !ad een two days ago# .n our riding-*amels we possessed meat enoug! for si3 wee&s, ut it was poor diet, and a dear one, indulgen*e in w!i*! would ring future immo ility upon us# Green dates loaded t!e palms over!ead# (!eir taste, raw, was nearly as nasty as t!e want t!ey were to allay# Coo&ing left t!em still deplora le) so we and our prisoners sadly fa*ed a dilemma of *onstant !unger, or of violent diurnal pains more proper to gluttony t!an to our e3pedient eating# (!e assiduous food-!a it of a lifetime !ad trained t!e 4nglis! ody to t!e pit*! of produ*ing a pun*tual nervous e3*itation in t!e upper elly at t!e fi3ed !our of ea*! meal- and we sometimes gave t!e !onoured name of !unger to t!is sign t!at our gut !ad *u i* spa*efor more stuff# Ara !unger was t!e *ry of a long-empty la ouring ody fainting wit! wea&ness# (!ey lived on a fra*tion of our ul&-food, and t!eir systems made e3!austive use of w!at t!ey got A nomad army did not dung t!e eart! ri*!ly wit! y-produ*ts# 8ur forty-two offi*er prisoners were an intolera le nuisan*e# (!ey were disgusted w!en t!ey found !ow ill-provided we were- indeed t!ey refused to elieve it was not a fraud to annoy t!em, and plagued us for deli*a*ies, as t!oug! Cairo lay !idden in our saddle ags# (o es*ape t!em 0asir and . slept# Always we tried to signali+e ea*! a**omplis!ed stage y t!is little e3tra pea*e) for in t!e desert we were only left alone y men and flies w!en lying on our a*&s, wit! a *loa& to s!ield our fa*es, asleep or feigning sleep# .n t!e evening, our first rea*tion against su**ess !aving passed off, we egan to t!in& !ow we s!ould &eep A&a a, !aving gained it# 'e settled t!at Auda s!ould return to Guweira# $e would t!ere e *overed y t!e des*ent of S!tar, and t!e Guweira sands# .n fa*t, as safe as need e# %ut we would ma&e !im safer yet, in e3*ess of pre*aution# 'e would put an outpost twenty miles to !is nort!, in t!e impregna le ro*&-ruins of 0a at!ean ,etra, and lin& t!em to !im y a post at Delag!a# Auda s!ould also send men to %atra so t!at !is $oweitat lie in a semi*ir*le of four positions round t!e edge of t!e Maan !ig!lands, *overing every way towards A&a a# (!ese four positions e3isted independently# (!e enemy !ad swallowed Golt+? impertinent generalities a out t!e interdependen*e of strong-posts# 'e loo&ed to t!eir delivering a spirited drive against one, and sitting afterwards in it da+ed for an un*omforta le mont!, una le to advan*e for t!e t!reat of t!e remaining t!ree, s*rat*!ing t!eir !eads and wondering w!y t!e ot!ers did not fall#

Supper taug!t us t!e urgent need to send news over t!e one !undred and fifty miles to t!e %ritis! at Sue+ for a relief-s!ip# . de*ided to go a*ross myselfwit! a party of eig!t, mostly $oweitat, on t!e est *amels in t!e for*e--one even was t!e famous /ed!a!, t!e seven-year-old for w!om t!e 0owasera !ad foug!t t!e eni Sa&!r# As we rode round t!e ay we dis*ussed t!e manner of our >ourney# .f we went gently, sparing t!e animals, t!ey mig!t fail wit! !unger# .f we rode !ard t!ey mig!t rea& down wit! e3!austion or sore feet in mid-desert# :inally we agreed to &eep at a wal&, !owever tempting t!e surfa*e, for so many !ours of t!e twentyfour as our enduran*e would allow# 8n su*! time-tests t!e man, espe*ially if !e were a foreigner, usually *ollapsed efore t!e east- in parti*ular, . !ad ridden fifty miles a day for t!e last mont!, and was near my limit of strengt!# .f . !eld out, we s!ould rea*! Sue+ in fifty !ours of a mar*!) and, to pre*lude *oo&ing-!alts upon t!e road, we *arried lumps of oiled *amel and roiled dates in a rag e!ind our saddles# 'e rode up t!e Sinai s*arp y t!e pilgrims? granite-!ewn road wit! its gradient of one in t!ree and a !alf# (!e *lim was severe, e*ause !asty, and w!en we rea*!ed t!e *rest efore sunset ot! men and *amels were trem ling wit! fatigue# 8ne *amel we t!en*e sent a*& as unfit for t!e trip- wit! t!e ot!ers we pus!ed out a*ross t!e plain t o some t!orn-s*ru , w!ere t!ey *ropped for an !our# 0ear midnig!t we rea*!ed (!emed, t!e only wells on our route, in a *lean valley-sweep elow t!e deserted guard-!ouse of t!e Sinai poli*e# 'e let t!e *amels reat!e, gave t!em water and dran& ourselves# (!en forward again, plodding t!roug! a silen*e of nig!t so intense t!at *ontinually we turned round in t!e saddles at fan*ied noises away t!ere y t!e *loa& of stars# %ut t!e a*tivity lay in ourselves, in t!e *ra*&ling of our passage t!roug! t!e undergrowt! perfumed li&e g!ost-flowers a out us# 'e mar*!ed into t!e very slow dawn# At sun-up we were far out in t!e plain t!roug! w!i*! s!eaves of water*ourses gat!ered towards Aris!- and we stopped to give our *amels a few minutes? mo*&ery of pasture# (!en again in t!e saddle till noon, and past noon, w!en e!ind t!e mirage rose t!e lonely ruins of 0a&!l# (!ese we left on our rig!t# At sunset we !alted for an !our# Camels were sluggis!, and ourselves utterly wearied) ut Motlog, t!e one-eyed owner of /ed!a!, *alled us to a*tion# 'e remounted, and at a me*!ani*al wal& *lim ed t!e Mitla $ills# (!e moon *ame out and t!eir tops, *ontoured in form-lines of limestone strata, s!one as t!oug! *rystalline wit! snow# .n t!e dawn we passed a melon field, sown y some adventurous Ara in t!is no-man?s-land etween t!e armies# 'e !alted anot!er of our pre*ious !ours, loosing t!e disgusted *amels to sear*! t!e sandvalleys for food w!ile we *ra*&ed t!e unripe melons and *ooled our *!apped lips on t!eir pit!y fles!# (!en again forward, in t!e !eat of t!e new day) t!oug! t!e *anal valley, *onstantly refres!ed y ree+es from t!e Gulf of Sue+, was never too oppressive# %y midday we were t!roug! t!e dunes, after a !appy swit*! a*& ride up and down t!eir waves, and out on t!e flatter plain# Sue( was to e guessed at, as t!e frise of indeterminate points mowing and o ing in t!e mirage of t!e *anal-!ollow far in front# 'e rea*!ed great tren*!-lines, wit! forts and ar ed wire, roads and railways, falling to de*ay# 'e passed t!em wit!out *!allenge# 8ur aim was t!e S!att, a post opposite Sue+ on t!e Asiati* an& of t!e Canal, and we gained it at last near t!ree in t!e afternoon, forty-nine !ours out of A&a a# :or a tri al raid t!is would !ave een fair time, and we were tired men efore ever we started# S!att was in unusual disorder, wit!out even a sentry to stop us, plague !aving appeared t!ere two or t!ree days efore# So t!e old *amps !ad een !urriedly *leared, left standing, w!ile t!e troops ivoua*&ed out in t!e *lean desert# 8f *ourse we &new not!ing of t!is, ut !unted in t!e empty offi*es till we found a telep!one# . rang up Sue+ !ead@uarters and said . wanted to *ome a*ross# (!ey regretted t!at it was not t!eir usiness# (!e .nland 'ater (ransport managed transit a*ross t!e Canal, after t!eir own met!ods# (!ere was a sniff of impli*ation t!at t!ese met!ods were not t!ose of t!e General Staff# 9ndaunted, for . was never a partisan of my nominal ran*! of t!e servi*e, . rang

up t!e offi*e of t!e 'ater %oard, and e3plained t!at . !ad >ust arrived in S!att from t!e desert wit! urgent news for $ead@uarters# (!ey were sorry, ut !ad no free oats >ust t!en# (!ey would e sure to send first t!ing in t!e morning, to *arry me to t!e Huarantine Department- and rang off#

&()PTE" L+I
0ow . !ad een four mont!s in Ara ia *ontinually on t!e move# .n t!e last four wee&s . !ad ridden fourteen !undred miles y *amel, not sparing myself anyt!ing to advan*e t!e war) ut . refused to spend a single superfluous nig!t wit! my familiar vermin# . wanted a at!, and somet!ing wit! i*e in it to drin&- to *!ange t!ese *lot!es, all sti*&ing to my saddle sores in filt!iness- to eat somet!ing more tra*ta le t!an green date and *amel sinew# . got t!roug! again to t!e .nland 'ater (ransport and tal&ed li&e C!rysostom# .t !ad no effe*t, so . e*ame vivid# (!en, on*e more, t!ey *ut me off# . was growing very vivid, w!en friendly nort!ern a**ents from t!e military e3*!ange floated down t!e line.t?s no luidy good, sir, tal&ing to t!em foo&in water oogers#? (!is e3pressed t!e apparent trut!) and t!e road-spo&en operator wor&ed me t!roug! to t!e 4m ar&ation 8ffi*e# $ere, 2yttleton, a ma>or of t!e usiest, !ad added to !is innumera le la ours t!at of *at*!ing "ed Sea wars!ips one y one as t!ey entered Sue+ roads and persuading t!em B!ow some loved itAC to pile !ig! t!eir de*&s wit! stores for 'e>! or 1en o# .n t!is way !e ran our t!ousands of ales and men, free, as a y-play in !is routine) and found time as well to smile at t!e *urious games of us *urious fol&# $e never failed us# As soon as !e !eard w!o and w!ere . was, and w!at was not !appening in t!e .nland 'ater (ransport, t!e diffi*ulty was over# $is laun*! was ready- would e at t!e S!att in !alf an !our# . was to *ome straig!t to !is offi*e- and not e3plain Btill per!aps now after t!e warC t!at a *ommon !ar our laun*! !ad entered t!e sa*red *anal wit!out permission of t!e 'ater Dire*torate# All fell out as !e said# . sent my men and *amels nort! to ;u ri) w!ere, y telep!one from Sue+, . would prepare t!em rations and s!elter in t!e animal *amp on t!e Asiati* s!ore# 2ater, of *ourse, *ame t!eir reward of !e*ti* and astonis!ing days in Cairo# 2yttleton saw my weariness and let me go at on*e to t!e !otel# 2ong ago it !ad seemed poor, ut now was e*ome splendid) and, after *on@uering its first !ostile impression of me and my dress, it produ*ed t!e !ot at!s and t!e *old drin&s Bsi3 of t!emC and t!e dinner and ed of my dreams# A most willing intelligen*e offi*er, warned y spies of a disguised 4uropean in t!e Sinai $otel, *!arged !imself wit! t!e *are of my men at ;u ri and provided ti*&ets and passes for me to Cairo ne3t day# (!e strenuous ?*ontrol? of *ivilian movement in t!e *anal +one entertained a dull >ourney# A mi3ed ody of 4gyptian and %ritis! military poli*e *ame round t!e train, interrogating us and s*rutini+ing our passes# .t was proper to ma&e war on permit-men, so . replied *risply in fluent 4nglis!, ?S!erif of Me**a-Staff, to t!eir Ara i* in@uiries# (!ey were astonis!ed# (!e sergeant egged my pardon- !e !ad not e3pe*ted to !ear# . repeated t!at . was in t!e Staff uniform of t!e S!erif of Me**a# (!ey loo&ed at my are feet, w!ite sil& ro es and gold !ead-rope and dagger# .mpossi leA ?'!at army, sirJ? ?Me**an#? ?0ever !eard of it- don?t &now t!e uniform#? ?'ould you re*ogni+e a Montenegrin dragoonJ? (!is was a !ome-t!rust# Any Allied troops in uniform mig!t travel wit!out pass# (!e poli*e did not &now all t!e Allies, mu*! less t!eir uniforms# Mine mig!t really e some rare army# (!ey fell a*& into t!e *orridor and wat*!ed me w!ile t!ey wired up t!e line# /ust efore .smailia, a perspiring intelligen*e offi*er in wet &!a&i oarded t!e train to *!e*& my statements# As we !ad almost arrived . s!owed !im t!e spe*ial pass wit! w!i*! t!e foret!oug!t of Sue+ !ad twi*e-armed my inno*en*e# $e was not pleased# At .smailia passengers for Cairo *!anged, to wait until t!e e3press from ,ort Said was due# .n t!e ot!er train s!one an opulent saloon, from w!i*! des*ended Admiral 'emyss and %urmester and 0eville, wit! a very large and superior general# A terri le tension grew along t!e platform as t!e party mar*!ed up and down it in weig!ty tal&# 8ffi*ers saluted on*e- twi*e- still t!ey mar*!ed up and down# (!ree times was too mu*!# Some wit!drew to t!e fen*e and stood permanently to attention- t!ese

were t!e mean souls# Some fled- t!ese were t!e *ontempti les# Some turned to t!e oo&stall and studied oo&- a*&s avidly- t!ese were s!y# 8nly one was latant# %urmester?s eye *aug!t my staring# $e wondered w!o it was, for . was urned *rimson and very !aggard wit! travel# B2ater . found my weig!t to e less t!an seven stone#C $owever, !e answered) and . e3plained t!e !istory of our unannoun*ed raid on A&a a# .t e3*ited !im# . as&ed t!at t!e admiral send a stores!ip t!ere at on*e# %urmester said t!e 1ufferin, w!i*! *ame in t!at day, s!ould load all t!e food in Sue+, go straig!t to A&a a, and ring a*& t!e prisoners# BSplendidAC $e would order it !imself, not to interrupt t!e Admiral and Allen y# ?Allen yA w!at?s !e doing !ereJ? *ried .# ?8!, !e?s in *ommand now#? ?And MurrayJ? ?Gone !ome#? (!is was news of t!e iggest, importantly *on*erning me- and . *lim ed a*& and fell to wondering if t!is !eavy, ru i*und man was li&e ordinary generals, and if we s!ould !ave trou le for si3 mont!s tea*!ing !im# Murray and %elinda !ad egun so tiresomely t!at our t!oug!t t!ose first days !ad een, not to defeat t!e enemy, ut to ma&e our own *!iefs let us live# 8nly y time and performan*e !ad we *onverted Sir Ar*!i ald and !is C!ief of Staff, w!o in t!eir last mont!s, wrote to t!e 'ar 8ffi*e *ommending t!e Ara venture, and espe*ially :eisal in it# (!is was generous of t!em and our se*ret triump!, for t!ey were an odd pair in one *!ariot--Murray all rains and *laws, nervous, elasti*, *!angea le) 2ynden %ell so solidly uilt up of layers of professional opinion, glued toget!er after Government testing and approval, and later trimmed and polis!ed to standard pit*!# At Cairo my sandalled feet slip-slapped up t!e @uiet Savoy *orridors to Clayton, w!o !a itually *ut t!e lun*! !our to *ope wit! !is t!ronging wor&# As . entered !e glan*ed up from !is des& wit! a muttered ?Mus! fadi? BAnglo-4gyptian for ?engaged?C ut . spo&e and got a surprised wel*ome# .n Sue+ t!e nig!t efore . !ad s*ri led a s!ort report) so we !ad to tal& only of w!at needed doing# %efore t!e !our ended, t!e Admiral rang up to say t!at t!e 1ufferin was loading flour for !er emergen*y trip#

Clayton drew si3teen t!ousand pounds in gold and got an es*ort to ta&e it to Sue+ y t!e t!ree o?*lo*& train# (!is was urgent, t!at 0asir mig!t e a le to meet !is de ts# (!e notes we !ad issued at %air, /efer and Guweira were pen*illed promises, on army telegrap! forms, to pay so mu*! to earer in A&a a# .t was a great system, ut no one !ad dared issue notes efore in Ara ia, e*ause t!e %eduins !ad neit!er po*&ets in t!eir s!irts nor strong-rooms in t!eir tents, and notes *ould not e uried for safety# So t!ere was an un*on@uera le pre>udi*e against t!em, and for our good name it was essential t!at t!ey e early redeemed# Afterwards, in t!e !otel, . tried to find *lot!es less pu li*ly e3*iting t!an my Ara get-up) ut t!e mot!s !ad *orrupted all my former store, and it was t!ree days efore . e*ame normally ill-dressed# Meanw!ile . !eard of Allen y?s e3*ellen*e, and of t!e last tragedy of Murray, t!at se*ond atta*& on Ga+a, w!i*! 2ondon for*ed on one too wea& or too politi* to resist) and !ow we went into it, every ody, generals and staff-offi*ers, even soldiers, *onvin*ed t!at we s!ould lose# :ive t!ousand eig!t !undred was t!e *asualty ill# (!ey said Allen y was getting armies of fres! men, and !undreds of guns, and all would e different#

%efore . was *lot!ed t!e Commander-in-C!ief sent for me, *uriously# .n my report, t!in&ing of Saladin and A u 8 eida, . !ad stressed t!e strategi* importan*e of t!e eastern tri es of Syria, and t!eir proper use as a t!reat to t!e *ommuni*ations of /erusalem# (!is >umped wit! !is am itions, and !e wanted to weig! me# .t was a *omi* interview, for Allen y was p!ysi*ally large and *onfident, and morally so great t!at t!e *ompre!ension of our littleness *ame slow to !im# $e sat in !is *!air loo&ing at me--not straig!t, as !is *ustom was, ut sideways, pu++led# $e was newly from :ran*e, w!ere for years !e !ad een a toot! of t!e great ma*!ine grinding t!e enemy# $e was full of 'estern ideas of gun power and weig!t--t!e worst training for our war-- ut, as a *avalryman, was already !alf persuaded to t!row up t!e new s*!ool, in t!is different world of Asia, and a**ompany Dawnay and C!etwode along t!e worn road of manoeuvre and movement) yet !e was !ardly prepared for anyt!ing so odd as myself--a little are-footed sil&-s&irted man offering to !o le t!e enemy y !is prea*!ing if given stores and arms and a fund of two !undred t!ousand sovereigns to *onvin*e and *ontrol !is *onverts# Allen y *ould not ma&e out !ow mu*! was genuine performer and !ow mu*! *!arlatan# (!e pro lem was wor&ing e!ind !is eyes, and . left !im un!elped to solve it# $e did not as& many @uestions, nor tal& mu*!, ut studied t!e map and listened to my unfolding of 4astern Syria and its in!a itants# At t!e end !e put up !is *!in and said @uite dire*tly, 'ell, . will do for you w!at . *an?, and t!at ended it# . was not sure !ow far . !ad *aug!t !im) ut we learned gradually t!at !e meant e3a*tly w!at !e said) and t!at w!at General Allen y *ould do was enoug! for !is very greediest servant#

&()PTE" L+II
9pon Clayton . opened myself *ompletely# A&a a !ad een ta&en on my plan y my effort# (!e *ost of it !ad fallen on my rains and nerves# (!ere was mu*! more . felt in*lined to do, and *apa le of doing---if !e t!oug!t . !ad earned t!e rig!t to e my own master# (!e Ara s said t!at ea*! man elieved !is ti*&s to e ga+elles- . did, fervently# Clayton agreed t!ey were spirited and profita le ti*&s) ut o >e*ted t!at a*tual *ommand *ould not e given to an offi*er >unior to t!e rest# $e suggested /oy*e as *ommanding offi*er at A&a a- a notion w!i*! suited me perfe*tly# /oy*e was a man in w!om one *ould rest against t!e world- a serene, un*!anging, *omforta le spirit# $is mind, li&e a pastoral lands*ape, !ad four *orners to its view*ared-for, friendly, limited, displayed# $e !ad won golden opinions at "a eg! and 'e>!, pra*tising t!at very la our of uilding up an army and a ase, w!i*! would e ne*essary at A&a a# Clayton-li&e, !e was a good *artilage to set etween opposing >oints, ut !e !ad more laug!ter t!an Clayton, eing road and .ris! and mu*! over si3 feet in !eig!t# $is nature was to e devoted to t!e nearest >o wit!out straining on !is toes after longer !ori+ons# Also, !e was more patient t!an any re*orded ar*!angel, and only smiled t!at >olly smile of !is w!enever . *ame in wit! revolutionary s*!emes, and t!rew new ri ons of fan*y a out t!e ne*& of t!e wild t!ing !e was slowly rearing# (!e rest was easy# :or supply offi*er we would !ave Goslett, t!e 2ondon usiness man w!o !ad made *!aoti* 'e>! so prim# (!e aeroplanes *ould not yet e moved) ut t!e armoured *ars mig!t *ome straig!t away, and a guard-s!ip if t!e Admiral was generous# 'e rang up Sir "osslyn 'emyss, w!o was very generous- !is flags!ip, t!e Euryalus, s!ould sit t!ere for t!e first few wee&s# Genius, t!is was, for in Ara ia s!ips were esteemed y num er of funnels, and t!e Euryalus, wit! four, was e3*eptional in s!ips# $er great reputation assured t!e mountains t!at we were indeed t!e winning side- and !er !uge *rew, y t!e prompting of 4verard :eilding, for fun uilt us a good pier# 8n t!e Ara side, . as&ed t!at t!e e3pensive and diffi*ult 'e>! e *losed down, and :eisal *ome to A&a a wit! !is full army# A sudden demand, it seemed to Cairo# So . went furt!er, pointing out t!at t!e 1en o-Medina se*tor also e*ame a a*&-num er) and advised t!e transfer to A&a a of t!e stores, money, and offi*ers now devoted to A!? and A dulla# (!is was ruled to e impossi le# %ut my wis!

regarding 'e>! was granted me in *ompromise# (!en . s!owed t!at A&a a was Allen y?s rig!t flan&, only one !undred miles from !is *entre, ut eig!t !undred miles from Me**a# As t!e Ara s prospered t!eir wor& would e done more and more in t!e ,alestine sp!ere# So it was logi*al t!at :eisal e transferred from t!e area of ;ing $ussein to e*ome an army *ommander of t!e Allied e3pedition of 4gypt under Allen y# (!is idea !eld diffi*ulties# 'ould :eisal a**eptJ5 . !ad tal&ed it over wit! !im in 'e>! mont!s ago# (!e $ig! CommissionerJ? :eisal?s army !ad een t!e largest and most distinguis!ed of t!e $e>a+ units- its future would not e dull# General 'ingate !ad assumed full responsi ility for t!e Ara Movement in its dar&est moment, at great ris& in reputation- dare we as& !im to relin@uis! its advan*e-guard now on t!e very t!res!old of su**essJ Clayton, &nowing 'ingate very well, was not afraid to roa*! t!e idea to !im- and 'ingate replied promptly t!at if Allen y *ould ma&e dire*t and large use of :eisal, it would e ot! !is duty and !is pleasure to give !im up for t!e good of t!e s!ow# A t!ird diffi*ulty of t!e transfer mig!t e ;ing $ussein- an o stinate, narrow-minded, suspi*ious *!ara*ter, little li&ely to sa*rifi*e a pet vanity for unity of *ontrol# $is opposition would endanger t!e s*!eme- and . offered to go down to tal& !im over, *alling on t!e way to get from :eisal su*! re*ommendations of t!e *!ange as s!ould fortify t!e powerful letters w!i*! 'ingate was writing to t!e ;ing# (!is was a**epted# (!e 1ufferin on returning from A&a a, was detailed to ta&e me to /idda for t!e new mission# S!e too& two days to rea*! 'e>!# :eisal, wit! /oy*e, 0ew*om e, and all t!e army, was at /eida, one !undred miles inland# Stent, w!o !ad su**eeded "oss in *ommand of t!e Ara ian flig!t, sent me up y air) so we *rossed *omforta ly at si3ty miles an !our t!e !ills learned toilsomely on *amel- a*&# :eisal was eager to !ear t!e details of A&a a, and laug!ed at our prenti*e wars# 'e sat and made plans t!e w!ole nig!t# $e wrote to !is fat!er) ordered !is *amel *orps to mar*! upon A&a a fort!wit!) and made first arrangements towards getting /aafar ,as!a and !is army ferried up in t!e long-suffering ,ardinge# At dawn t!ey flew me a*& to 'e>!, and, an !our after, t!e 1ufferin was ma&ing for /idda, w!ere t!ings e*ame easy for me wit! 'ilson?s powerful !elp# (o render A&a a, our most promising se*tor, strong, !e sent up a s!ipload of reserve stores and ammunition, and offered us any of !is offi*ers# 'ilson was of t!e 'ingate s*!ool# (!e ;ing *ame down from Me**a and tal&ed dis*ursively# 'ilson was t!e royal tou*!stone, y w!i*! to try dou tful *ourses# (!an&s to !im, t!e proposed transfer of :eisal to Allen y was a**epted at on*e, ;ing $ussein ta&ing t!e opportunity to stress !is *omplete loyalty to our allian*e# (!en, *!anging !is su >e*t, as usual wit!out o vious *o!eren*e, !e egan to e3pose !is religious position, neit!er strong S!ia nor strong Surini, aiming rat!er at a simple pre-s*!ism interpretation of t!e fait!# .n foreign politi*s !e etrayed a mind as narrow as it !ad een road in unworldly t!ings) wit! mu*! of t!at destru*tive tenden*y of little men to deny t!e !onesty of opponents# . grasped somet!ing of t!e fi3ed >ealousy w!i*! made t!e modern :eisal suspe*t in !is fat!er?s *ourt) and reali+ed !ow easily mis*!ief-ma&ers *ould *orrode t!e ;ing# '!ile we played so interestingly at /idda, two a rupt telegrams from 4gypt s!attered our pea*e# (!e first reported t!at t!e $owei-tat were in treasona le *orresponden*e wit! Maan# (!e se*ond *onne*ted Auda wit! t!e plot# (!is dismayed us# 'ilson !ad travelled wit! Auda, and formed t!e inevita le >udgement of !is perfe*t sin*erity- yet Mo!ammed el D!eilan was *apa le of dou le play, and i n /ad and !is friends were still un*ertain# 'e prepared to leave at on*e for A&a a# (rea*!ery !ad not een ta&en into a**ount w!en 0asir and . !ad uilt our plan for t!e town?s defen*e# :ortunately t!e ,ardinge was in !ar our for us# 8n t!e t!ird afternoon we were in A&a a, w!ere 0asir !ad no notion t!at anyt!ing was wrong# . told !im only of my wis! to greet Auda- !e lent me a swift *amel and a guide) and at dawn we found Auda and Mo!ammed and Gaal all in a tent at

Guweira# (!ey were *onfused w!en . dropped in on t!em, un!eralded) ut protested t!at all was well# 'e fed toget!er as friends# 8t!ers of t!e $oweitat *ame in, and t!ere was gay tal& a out t!e war# . distri uted t!e ;ing?s presents) and told t!em, to t!eir laug!ter, t!at 0asir !ad got !is mont!?s leave to Me**a# (!e ;ing, an ent!usiast for t!e revolt, elieved t!at !is servants s!ould wor& as manfully# So !e would not allow visits to Me**a, and t!e poor men found *ontinual military servi*e !eavy anis!ment from t!eir wives# 'e !ad >ested a !undred times t!at, if !e too& A&a a, 0asir would deserve a !oliday) ut !e !ad not really elieved in its *oming until . gave !im $ussein?s letter t!e evening efore# .n gratitude !e sold me G!a+ala, t!e regal *amel !e won from t!e $oweitat As !er owner . e*ame of new interest to t!e A u (ayi# After lun*!, y preten*e of sleep, . got rid of t!e visitors) and t!en a ruptly as&ed Auda and Mo!ammed to wal& wit! me to see t!e ruined fort and reservoir# '!en we were alone . tou*!ed on t!eir present *orresponden*e wit! t!e (ur&s# Auda egan to laug!) Mo!ammed to loo& disgusted# At last t!ey e3plained ela orately t!at Mo!ammed !ad ta&en Auda?s seal and written to t!e Governor of Maan, offering to desert t!e S!erif s *ause# (!e (ur& !ad replied gladly, promising great rewards# Mo!ammed as&ed for somet!ing on a**ount# Auda t!en !eard of it, waited till t!e messenger wit! presents was on !is way, *aug!t !im, ro ed !im to t!e s&in- and was denying Mo!ammed a s!are of t!e spoils# A far*i*al story, and we laug!ed ri*!ly over it- ut t!ere was more e!ind# (!ey were angry t!at no guns or troops !ad yet *ome to t!eir support) and t!at no rewards !ad een given t!em for ta&ing A&a a# (!ey were an3ious to &now !ow . !ad learnt of t!eir se*ret dealings, and !ow mu*! more . &new# 'e were on a slippery ledge# . played on t!eir fear y my unne*essary amusement, @uoting in *areless laug!ter, as if t!ey were my own words, a*tual p!rases of t!e letters t!ey !ad e3*!anged# (!is *reated t!e impression desired# ,arent!eti*ally . told t!em :eisal?s entire army was *oming up) and !ow Allen y was sending rifles, guns, !ig! e3plosive, food and money to A&a a# :inally . suggested t!at Auda?s present e3penses in !ospitality must e great) would it !elp if . advan*ed somet!ing of t!e great gift :eisal would ma&e !im, personally, w!en !e arrivedJ Auda saw t!at t!e immediate moment would not e unprofita let!at :eisal would e !ig!ly profita le- and t!at t!e (ur&s would e always wit! !im if ot!er resour*es failed# So !e agreed, in a very good temper, to a**ept my advan*e- and wit! it to &eep t!e $oweitat well-fed and *!eerful# .t was near sunset# Gaal !ad &illed a s!eep and we ate again in real amity# Afterwards . remounted, wit! Mufaddi! Bto draw Auda?s allowan*eC, and A d el "a!man, a servant of Mo!ammed?s w!o, so !e w!ispered me, would re*eive any little t!ing . wis!ed to send !im separately# 'e rode all nig!t towards A&a a, w!ere . roused 0asir from sleep, to run over our last usiness# (!en . paddled out in a dereli*t *anoe from ?4uryalus >etty? to t!e ,ardinge >ust as t!e first dawn *rept down t!e western pea&s# . went elow, at!ed, and slept till mid-morning# '!en . *ame on de*& t!e s!ip was rus!ing grandly down t!e narrow gulf under full steam for 4gypt# My appearan*e *aused a sensation, for t!ey !ad not dreamed . *ould rea*! Guweira, assure myself, and get a*& in less t!an si3 or seven days, to *at*! a later steamer# 'e rang up Cairo and announ*ed t!at t!e situation at Guweira was t!oroug!ly good, and no trea*!ery a road# (!is may !ave een !ardly true) ut sin*e 4gypt &ept us alive y stinting !erself, we must redu*e impoliti* trut! to &eep !er *onfident and ourselves a legend# (!e *rowd wanted oo&-!eroes, and would not understand !ow more !uman old Auda was e*ause, after attle and murder, !is !eart yearned towards t!e defeated enemy now su >e*t, at !is free *!oi*e, to e spared or &illed- and t!erefore never so lovely#

&()PTE" L+III
Again t!ere fell a pause in my wor& and again my t!oug!ts uilt t!emselves up# (ill :eisal and /aafar and /oy*e and t!e army *ame we *ould do little ut t!in&- yet t!at, for our own *redit, was t!e essential pro*ess# So far our war !ad !ad ut t!e one studied operation--t!e mar*! on A&a a# Su*! !ap!a+ard playing wit! t!e men and movements of w!i*! we !ad assumed t!e leaders!ip disgra*ed our minds# . vowed to &now !en*eforward, efore . moved, w!ere . was going and y w!at roads# At 'e>! t!e $e>a+ war was won- after A&a a it was ended# :eisal?s army !ad *leared off its Ara ian lia ilities and now, under General Allen y t!e >oint Commander-in-C!ief, its role was to ta&e part in t!e military deliveran*e of Syria# (!e differen*e etween $e>a+ and Syria was t!e differen*e etween t!e desert and t!e sown# (!e pro lem w!i*! fa*ed us was one of *!ara*ter--t!e learning to e*ome *ivil# 'adi Musa village was our first peasant re*ruit# 9nless we e*ame peasants too, t!e independen*e movement would get no furt!er# .t was good for t!e Ara "evolt t!at so early in its growt! t!is *!ange imposed itself# 'e !ad een !opelessly la ouring to ploug! waste lands) to ma&e nationality grow in a pla*e full of t!e *ertainty of God, t!at upas *ertainty w!i*! for ade all !ope# Among t!e tri es our *reed *ould e only li&e t!e desert grass--a eautiful swift seeming of spring) w!i*!, after a day?s !eat, fell dusty# Aims and ideas must e translated into tangi ility y material e3pression# (!e desert men were too deta*!ed to e3press t!e one) too poor in goods, too remote from *omple3ity, to *arry t!e ot!er# .f we would prolong our life, we must win into t!e ornamented lands) to t!e villages w!ere roofs or fields !eld men?s eyes downward and near) and egin our *ampaign as we !ad egun t!at in 'adi Ais, y a study of t!e map, and a re*olle*tion of t!e nature of t!is our attleground of Syria# 8ur feet were upon its sout!ern oundary# (o t!e east stret*!ed t!e nomadi* desert# (o t!e west Syria was limited y t!e Mediterranean, from Ga+a to Ale3andretta# 8n t!e nort! t!e (ur&is! populations of Anatolia gave it an end# 'it!in t!ese limits t!e land was mu*! par*elled up y natural divisions# 8f t!em t!e first and greatest was longitudinal) t!e rugged spine of mountains w!i*!, from nort! to sout!, divided a *oast strip from a wide inland plain# (!ese areas !ad *limati* differen*es so mar&ed t!at t!ey made two *ountries, two ra*es almost, wit! t!eir respe*tive populations# (!e s!ore Syrians lived in different !ouses, fed and wor&ed differently, used an Ara i* differing y infle*tion and in tone from t!at of t!e inlanders# (!ey spo&e of t!e interior unwillingly, as of a wild land of lood and terror# (!e inland plain was su -divided geograp!i*ally into strips y rivers# (!ese valleys were t!e most sta le and prosperous tillages of t!e *ountry# (!eir in!a itants refle*ted t!em- *ontrasting, on t!e desert side, wit! t!e strange, s!ifting populations of t!e orderland, wavering eastward or westward wit! t!e season, living y t!eir wits, wasted y droug!t and lo*usts, y %eduin raids) or, if t!ese failed t!em, y t!eir own in*ura le lo od feuds# 0ature !ad so divided t!e *ountry into +ones# Man, ela orating nature, !ad given to !er *ompartments an additional *omple3ity# 4a*! of t!ese main nort!-and-sout! strip divisions was *rossed and walled off artifi*ially into *ommunities at odds# 'e !ad to gat!er t!em into our !ands for offensive a*tion against t!e (ur&s# :eisal?s opportunities and diffi*ulties lay in t!ese politi*al *ompli*ations of Syria w!i*! we mentally arranged in order, li&e a so*ial map# .n t!e very nort!, furt!est from us, t!e language- oundary followed, not inaptly, t!e *oa*! road from Ale3andretta to Aleppo, until it met t!e %ag!dad "ailway, up w!i*! it went to t!e 4up!rates valley) ut en*laves of (ur&is! spee*! lay to t!e sout! of t!is general line in t!e (ur&oman villages nort! and sout! of Antio*!, and in t!e Armenians w!o were sifted in among t!em# 8t!erwise, a main *omponent of t!e *oast population was t!e *ommunity of Ansariya, t!ose dis*iples of a *ult of fertility, s!eer pagan, anti-foreign, distrustful of .slam, drawn at moments towards C!ristians y *ommon perse*ution# (!e se*t, vital in itself, was *lannis! in feeling and politi*s# 8ne

0osairi would not etray anot!er, and would !ardly not etray an un eliever# (!eir villages lay in pat*!es down t!e main !ills to t!e (ripoli gap# (!ey spo&e Ara i*, ut !ad lived t!ere sin*e t!e eginning of Gree& letters in Syria# 9sually t!ey stood aside from affairs, and left t!e (ur&is! Government alone in !ope of re*ipro*ity# Mi3ed among t!e Ansariye! were *olonies of Syrian C!ristians) and in t!e end of t!e 8rontes !ad een some firm lo*&s of Armenians, inimi*al to (ur&ey# .nland, near $arim were Druses, Ara i* in origin) and some Cir*assians from t!e Cau*asus# (!ese !ad t!eir !and against all# 0ort!-east of t!em were ;urds, settlers of some generations a*&, w!o were marrying Ara s and adopting t!eir politi*s# (!ey !ated native C!ristians most) and, after t!em, t!ey !ated (ur&s and 4uropeans# /ust eyond t!e ;urds e3isted a few 1e+idis, Ara i*-spea&ing, ut in t!oug!t affe*ted y t!e dualism of .ran, and prone to pla*ate t!e spirit of evil# C!ristians, Mo!ammedans, and /ews, peoples w!o pla*ed revelation efore reason, united to spit upon 1e+id# .nland of t!em stood Aleppo, a town of two !undred t!ousand people, an epitome of all (ur&ey?s ra*es and religions# 4astward of Aleppo, for si3ty miles, were settled Ara s w!ose *olour and manner e*ame more and more tri al as t!ey neared t!e fringe of *ultivation w!ere t!e semi-nomad ended and t!e %edawi egan# A se*tion a*ross Syria from sea to desert, a degree furt!er sout!, egan in *olonies of Moslem Cir*assians near t!e *oast# .n t!e new generation t!ey spo&e Ara i* and were an ingenious ra*e, ut @uarrelsome, mu*! opposed y t!eir Ara neig! ours# .nland of t!em were .smailiya# (!ese ,ersian immigrants !ad turned Ara in t!e *ourse of *enturies, ut revered among t!emselves one Mo!ammed, w!o in t!e fles!, was t!e Ag!a ;!an# (!ey elieved !im to e a great and wonderful sovereign, !onouring t!e 4nglis! wit! !is friends!ip# (!ey s!unned Moslems, ut fee ly !id t!eir eastly opinions under a veneer of ort!odo3y# %eyond t!em were t!e strange sig!ts of villages of C!ristian tri al Ara s, under s!ei&!s# (!ey seemed very sturdy C!ristians, @uite unli&e t!eir snivelling ret!ren in t!e !ills# (!ey lived as t!e Sunni a out t!em, dressed li&e t!em, and were on t!e est terms wit! t!em# 4ast of t!e C!ristians lay semipastoral Moslem *ommunities) and on t!e last edge of *ultivation, some villages of .smailia out*asts, in sear*! of t!e pea*e men would not grant# %eyond were %eduin# A t!ird se*tion t!roug! Syria, anot!er degree lower, fell etween (ripoli and %eyrout# :irst, near t!e *oast, were 2e anon C!ristians) for t!e most part Maronites or Gree&s# .t was !ard to disentangle t!e politi*s of t!e two C!ur*!es# Superfi*ially, one s!ould !ave een :ren*! and one "ussian) ut a part of t!e population, to earn a living, !ad een in t!e 9nited States, and t!ere developed an Anglo-Sa3on vein, not t!e less vigorous for eing spurious# (!e Gree& C!ur*! prided itself on eing 8ld Syrian, auto*!t!onous, of an intense lo*alism w!i*! mig!t ally it wit! (ur&ey rat!er t!an endure irretrieva le domination y a "oman ,ower# (!e ad!erents of t!e two se*ts were at one in unmeasured slander, w!en t!ey dared, of Mo!ammedans# Su*! ver al s*orn seemed to salve t!eir *ons*iousness of in red inferiority# :amilies of Moslems lived among t!em, identi*al in ra*e and !a it, e3*ept for a less min*ing diale*t, and less parade of emigration and its results# 8n t!e !ig!er slopes of t!e !ills *lustered settlements of Metawala, S!ia Mo!ammedans from ,ersia generations ago# (!ey were dirty, ignorant, surly and fanati*al, refusing to eat or drin& wit! infidels) !olding t!e Sunni as ad as C!ristians) following only t!eir own priests and nota les# Strengt! of *!ara*ter was t!eir virtue- a rare one in garrulous Syria# 8ver t!e !ill-*rest lay villages of C!ristian yeomen living in free pea*e wit! t!eir Moslem neig! ours as t!oug! t!ey !ad never !eard t!e grum les of 2e anon# 4ast of t!em were semi-nomad Ara peasantry) and t!en t!e open desert# A fourt! se*tion, a degree sout!ward, would !ave fallen near A*re, w!ere t!e in!a itants, from t!e seas!ore, were first Sunni Ara s, t!en Druses, t!en Metawala# 8n t!e an&s of t!e /ordan valley lived itterly-suspi*ious *olonies of Algerian refugees, fa*ing villages of /ews# (!e /ews were of varied sorts# Some, $e rew s*!olars of t!e traditionalist pattern, !ad developed a standard and style of living efitting t!e *ountry- w!ile t!e later *omers, many of w!om were German-inspired, !ad introdu*ed

strange manners, and strange *rops, and 4uropean !ouses Bere*ted out of *!arita le fundsC into t!is land of ,alestine, w!i*! seemed too small and too poor to repay in &ind t!eir efforts- ut t!e land tolerated t!em# Galilee did not s!ow t!e deep-seated antipat!y to its /ewis! *olonists w!i*! was an unlovely feature of t!e neig! ouring /udea# A*ross t!e eastern plains Bt!i*& wit! Ara sC lay a la yrint! of *ra*&led lava, t!e 2e>a, w!ere t!e loose and ro&en men of Syria !ad foregat!ered for unnum ered generations# (!eir des*endants lived t!ere in lawless villages, se*ure from (ur& and %eduin, and wor&ed out t!eir interne*ine feuds at leisure# Sout! and sout!-west of t!em opened t!e $auran, a !uge fertile land) populous wit! warli&e, selfreliant? and prosperousAra peasantry# 4ast of t!em were t!e Druses, !eterodo3 Moslem followers of a mad and dead Sultan of 4gypt# (!ey !ated Maronites wit! a itter !atred) w!i*!, w!en en*ouraged y t!e Government and t!e fanati*s of Damas*us, found e3pression in great periodi* &illings# 0one t!e less t!e Druses were disli&ed y t!e Moslem Ara s and despised t!em in return# (!ey were at feud wit! t!e %eduins, and preserved in t!eir mountain a s!ow of t!e *!ivalrous semi-feudalism of 2e anon in t!e days of t!eir autonomous 4mirs# A fift! se*tion in t!e latitude of /erusalem would !ave egun wit! Germans and wit! German /ews, spea&ing German or German-1iddis!, more intra*ta le even t!an t!e /ews of t!e "oman era, una le to endure *onta*t wit! ot!ers not of t!eir ra*e, some of t!em farmers, most of t!em s!op&eepers, t!e most foreign, un*!arita le part of t!e w!ole population of Syria# Around t!em glowered t!eir enemies, t!e sullen ,alestine peasants, more stupid t!an t!e yeomen of 0ort! Syria, material as t!e 4gyptians, and an&rupt# 4ast of t!em lay t!e /ordan dept!, in!a ited y *!arred serfs) and a*ross it group upon group of selfrespe*ting village C!ristians w!o were, after t!eir agri*ultural *o-religionists of t!e 8rontes valley, t!e least timid e3amples of our original fait! in t!e *ountry# Among t!em and east of t!em were tens of t!ousands of semi-nomad Ara s, !olding t!e *reed of t!e desert, living on t!e fear and ounty of t!eir C!ristian neig! ours# Down t!is de ata le land t!e 8ttoman Government !ad planted a line of Cir*assian immigrants from t!e "ussian Cau*asus# (!ese !eld t!eir ground only y t!e sword and t!e favour of t!e (ur&s, to w!om t!ey were, of ne*essity, devoted#

&()PTE" LI.
(!e tale of Syria was not ended in t!is *ount of odd ra*es and religions# Apart from t!e *ountry-fol&, t!e si3 great towns--/erusalem, %eyrout, Damas*us, $orns, $ama, and Aleppo--were entities, ea*! wit! its *!ara*ter, dire*tion, and opinion# (!e sout!ernmost, /erusalem, was a s@ualid town, w!i*! every Semiti* religion !ad made !oly# C!ristians and Mo!ammedans *ame t!ere on pilgrimage to t!e s!rines of its past, and some /ews loo&ed to it for t!e politi*al future of t!eir ra*e# (!ese united for*es of t!e past and t!e future were so strong t!at t!e *ity almost failed to !ave a present# .ts people, wit! rare e3*eptions, were *!ara*terless as !otel servants, living on t!e *rowd of visitors passing t!roug!# .deals of Ara nationality were far from t!em, t!oug! familiarity wit! t!e differen*es of C!ristians at t!eir moment of most poignant sentien*e !ad led t!e *lasses of /erusalem to despise us all# %eyrout was altoget!er new# .t would !ave een astard :ren*! in feeling as in language ut for its Gree& !ar our and Ameri*an *ollege# ,u li* opinion in it was t!at of t!e C!ristian mer*!ants, fat men living y e3*!ange) for %eyrout itself produ*ed not!ing# (!e ne3t strongest *omponent was t!e *lass of returned emigrants, !appy on invested savings in t!e town of Syria w!i*! most resem led t!at 'as!ington Street w!ere t!ey !ad made good# %eyrout was t!e door of Syria, a *!romati* 2evantine s*reen t!roug! w!i*! *!eap or s!op-soiled foreign influen*es entered- it represented Syria as mu*! as So!o t!e $ome Counties# 1et %eyrout, e*ause of its geograp!i*al position, e*ause of its s*!ools, and t!e freedom engendered y inter*ourse wit! foreigners, !ad *ontained efore t!e war a nu*leus of people, tal&ing, writing, t!in&ing li&e t!e do*trinaire Cy*lopasdists w!o paved t!e way for revolution in :ran*e# :or t!eir sa&e,

and for its wealt!, and its e3*eeding loud and ready voi*e, %eyrout was to e re*&oned wit!# Damas*us, $orns, $ama and Aleppo were t!e four an*ient *ities in w!i*! native Syria too& pride# (!ey stret*!ed li&e a *!ain along t!e fertile valleys etween t!e desert and t!e !ills# %e*ause of t!eir setting t!ey turned t!eir a*&s upon t!e sea and loo&ed eastward# (!ey were Ara , and &new t!emselves su*!# 8f t!em, and of Syria, Damas*us was t!e inevita le !ead) t!e seat of lay government) and t!e religious *entre# .ts s!ei&!s were leaders of opinion, more ?Me**an? t!an ot!ers elsew!ere# .ts fres! and tur ulent *iti+ens, always willing to stri&e, were as e3treme in t!oug!t and word as in pleasure# (!e *ity oasted to move efore any part of Syria# (!e (ur&s made it military !ead@uarters, >ust as *ertainly as t!e Ara 8pposition, and 8ppen!eim, and S!ei&! S!awis! t!ere esta lis!ed t!emselves# Damas*us was a lode-star to w!i*! Ara s were naturally drawn- a *apital w!i*! would not smoot!ly e su servient to any alien ra*e# $orns and $ama were twins disli&ing one anot!er# All in t!em manufa*tured t!ings- in $orns often *otton and wool, in $ama ro*aded sil&s# (!eir industries were prosperous and in*reasing, t!eir mer*!ants @ui*& to find new outlets, or to meet new tastes, in 0ort! Afri*a, t!e %al&ans, Asia Minor, Ara ia, Mesopotamia# (!ey demonstrated t!e produ*tive a ility of Syria, unguided y foreigners, as %eyrout proved its s&ill in distri ution# 1et w!ile t!e prosperity of %eyrout made it 2evantine, t!e prosperity of $orns and ;ama reinfor*ed t!eir lo*alism) made t!em more firmly native, more >ealously native# Almost it seemed as t!oug! familiarity wit! plant and power taug!t people t!at t!eir fat!ers? manners were est# Aleppo was a great *ity in Syria, ut not of it, nor of Anatolia, nor of Mesopotamia# (!ere t!e ra*es, *reeds, and tongues of t!e 8ttoman 4mpire met and &new one anot!er in a spirit of *ompromise# (!e *las! of *!ara*teristi*s, w!i*! made its streets a &aleidos*ope, im ued t!e Aleppine wit! a lewd t!oug!tfulness w!i*! *orre*ted in !im w!at was latant in t!e Damas*ene# Aleppo !ad s!ared in all t!e *ivili+ations w!i*! turned a out it- t!e result seemed to e a la*& of +est in its people?s elief# 4ven so, t!ey surpassed t!e rest of Syria# (!ey foug!t and traded more) were more fanati*al and vi*ious) and made most eautiful t!ings- ut all wit! a deart! of *onvi*tion w!i*! rendered arren t!eir multitudinous strengt!# .t was typi*al of Aleppo t!at in it, w!ile yet Mo!ammedan feeling ran !ig!, more fellows!ip s!ould rule etween C!ristian and Mo!ammedan, Armenian, Ara , (ur&, ;urd and /ew, t!an in per!aps any ot!er great *ity of t!e 8ttoman 4mpire, and t!at more friendliness, t!oug! little li*en*e, s!ould !ave een a**orded to 4uropeans# ,oliti*ally, t!e town stood aside altoget!er, save in Ara @uarters w!i*!, li&e overgrown !alf-nomad villages s*attered over wit! pri*eless mediaeval mos@ues, e3tended east and sout! of t!e mural *rown of its great *itadel# (!e intensity of t!eir self-sown patriotism tinged t!e ul& of t!e *iti+ens outside t!em wit! a *olour of lo*al *ons*iousness w!i*! was y so mu*! less vivid t!an t!e %eyrout-a*@uired unanimity of Damas*us# All t!ese peoples of Syria were open to us y t!e master-&ey of t!eir *ommon Ara i* language# (!eir distin*tions were politi*al and religious- morally t!ey differed only in t!e steady gradation from neuroti* sensi ility on t!e sea *oast to reserve inland# (!ey were @ui*&-minded) admirers, ut not see&ers of trut!) self-satisfied) not Bli&e t!e 4gyptiansC !elpless efore a stra*t ideas, ut unpra*ti*al) and so la+y in mind as to e !a itually superfi*ial# (!eir ideal was ease in w!i*! to usy t!emselves wit! ot!ers? affairs# :rom *!ild!ood t!ey were lawless, o eying t!eir fat!ers only from p!ysi*al fear) and t!eir government later for mu*! t!e same reason- yet few ra*es !ad t!e respe*t of t!e upland Syrian for *ustomary law# All of t!em wanted somet!ing new, for wit! t!eir superfi*iality and lawlessness went a passion for politi*s, a s*ien*e fatally easy for t!e Syrian to smarter, ut too diffi*ult for !im to master# (!ey were dis*ontented always wit! w!at government t!ey !ad) su*! eing t!eir intelle*tual pride) ut few of t!em !onestly t!oug!t out a wor&ing alternative, and fewer still agreed upon one# .n settled Syria t!ere was no indigenous politi*al entity larger t!an t!e village, in patriar*!al Syria not!ing more *omple3 t!an t!e *lan) and t!ese units were informal and voluntary, devoid of san*tion,

wit! !eads indi*ated from t!e entitled families only y t!e slow *ementing of pu li* opinion# All !ig!er *onstitution was t!e imported ureau-system of t!e (ur&, in pra*ti*e eit!er fairly good or very ad a**ording to t!e frailty of t!e !uman instruments Bgenerally gendarmesC t!roug! w!i*!, in t!e last resort, it wor&ed# (!e people, even t!e est-taug!t, s!owed a *urious lindness to t!e unimportan*e of t!eir *ountry, and a mis*on*eption of t!e selfis!ness of great powers w!ose normal *ourse was to *onsider t!eir own interests efore t!ose of unarmed ra*es# Some *ried aloud for an Ara &ingdom# (!ese were usually Moslems) and t!e Cat!oli* C!ristians would *ounter t!em y demanding 4uropean prote*tion of a t!elemi* order, *onferring privileges wit!out o ligation# %ot! proposals were, of *ourse, far from t!e !earts of t!e national groups, w!o *ried for autonomy for Syria, !aving a &nowledge of w!at autonomy was, ut not &nowing Syria) for in Ara i* t!ere was no su*! name, nor any name for all t!e *ountry any of t!em meant# (!e ver al poverty of t!eir "ome- orrowed name indi*ated a politi*al disintegration# %etween town and town, village and village, family and family, *reed and *reed, e3isted intimate >ealousies sedulously fostered y t!e (ur&s# (ime seemed to !ave pro*laimed t!e impossi ility of autonomous union for su*! a land# .n !istory, Syria !ad een a *orridor etween sea and desert, >oining Afri*a to Asia, Ara ia to 4urope# .t !ad een a pri+e-ring, a vassal, of Anatolia, of Gree*e, of "ome, of 4gypt, of Ara ia, of ,ersia, of Mesopotamia# '!en given a momentary independen*e y t!e wea&ness of neig! ours it !ad fier*ely resolved into dis*ordant nort!ern, sout!ern, eastern and western ?&ingdoms? wit! t!e area at est of 1or&s!ire, at worst of "utland) for if Syria was y nature a vassal *ountry it was also y !a it a *ountry of tireless agitation and in*essant revolt# (!e master-&ey of opinion lay in t!e *ommon language- w!ere also, lay t!e &ey of imagination# Moslems w!ose mot!er tongue was Ara i* loo&ed upon t!emselves for t!at reason as a *!osen people# (!eir !eritage of t!e ;oran and *lassi*al literature !eld t!e Ara i*-spea&ing peoples toget!er# ,atriotism, ordinarily of soil or ra*e, was warped to a language# A se*ond uttress of a polity of Ara motive was t!e dim glory of t!e early ;!alifate, w!ose memory endured among t!e people t!roug! *enturies of (ur&is! misgovernment# (!e a**ident t!at t!ese traditions savoured rat!er of t!e Ara ian 0ig!ts t!an of s!eer !istory maintained t!e Ara ran& and file in t!eir *onvi*tion t!at t!eir past was more splendid t!an t!e present of t!e 8ttoman (ur&# 1et we &new t!at t!ese were dreams# Ara Government in Syria, t!oug! uttressed on Ara i* pre>udi*es, would e as mu*! ?imposed? as t!e (ur&is! Government, or a foreign prote*torate, or t!e !istori* Calip!ate# Syria remained a vividly *oloured ra*ial and religious mosai*# Any wide attempt after unity would ma&e a pat*!ed and par*elled t!ing, ungrateful to a people w!ose instin*ts ever returned towards paro*!ial !ome rule# 8ur e3*use for over-running e3pedien*y was 'ar# Syria, ripe for spasmodi* lo*al revolt, mig!t e seet!ed up into insurre*tion, if a new fa*tor, offering to reali+e t!at *entripetal nationalism of t!e %eyrout Cy*lopaedists, arose to restrain t!e >arring se*ts and *lasses# 0ovel t!e fa*tor must e, to avoid raising a >ealousy of itself- not foreign, sin*e t!e *on*eit of Syria for ade# 'it!in our sig!t t!e only independent fa*tor wit! a**epta le groundwor& and fig!ting ad!erents was a Sunni prin*e, li&e :eisal, pretending to revive t!e glories of 8mmayad or Ayu id# $e mig!t momentarily *om ine t!e inland men until su**ess *ame wit! its need to transfer t!eir de au*!ed ent!usiasm to t!e servi*e of ordered government# (!en would *ome rea*tion) ut only after vi*tory) and for vi*tory everyt!ing material and moral mig!t e pawned# (!ere remained t!e te*!ni@ue and dire*tion of t!e new revolts- ut t!e dire*tion a lind man *ould see# (!e *riti*al *entre of Syria in all ages !ad een t!e 1armu& <alley, $auran, and Deraa# '!en $auran >oined us our *ampaign would e well ended# (!e pro*ess s!ould e to set up anot!er ladder of tri es, *ompara le to t!at from 'e>! to A&a a- only t!is time our ladder would e made of steps of $oweitat, %eni Sa&!r, S!erarat, "ualla, and Sera!in, to raise us t!ree !undred miles to A+ra&, t!e oasis nearest $auran and /e el Druse#

.n *!ara*ter our operations of development for t!e final stro&e s!ould e li&e naval war, in mo ility, u i@uity, independen*e of ases and *ommuni*ations, ignoring of ground features, of strategi* areas, of fi3ed dire*tions, of fi3ed points# ?$e w!o *ommands t!e sea is at great li erty, and may ta&e as mu*! or as little of t!e war as !e will#? And we *ommanded t!e desert# Camel raiding parties, self*ontained li&e s!ips, mig!t *ruise *onfidently along t!e enemy?s *ultivation-frontier, sure of an un!indered retreat into t!eir desert-element w!i*! t!e (ur&s *ould not e3plore# Dis*rimination of w!at point of t!e enemy organism to disarrange would *ome to us wit! war pra*ti*e# 8ur ta*ti*s s!ould e tip and run- not pus!es, ut stro&es# 'e s!ould never try to improve an advantage# 'e s!ould use t!e smallest for*e in t!e @ui*&est time at t!e fart!est pla*e# (!e ne*essary speed and range for distant war we would attain t!roug! t!e frugality of t!e desert men, and t!eir effi*ien*y on *amels# (!e *amel, t!at intri*ate, prodigious pie*e of nature, in e3pert !ands yielded a remar&a le return# 8n t!em we were independent of supply for si3 wee&s, if ea*! man !ad a !alf- ag of flour, forty-five pounds in weig!t, slung on !is riding-saddle# 8f water we would not want to *arry more t!an a pint ea*!# (!e *amels must drin&, and t!ere was no gain in ma&ing ourselves ri*!er t!an our mounts# Some of us never dran& etween wells, ut t!ose were !ardy men- most dran& fully at ea*! well, and *arried a drin& for an intermediate dry day# .n summer t!e *amels would do a out two !undred and fifty miles after a watering) a t!ree days? vigorous mar*!# An easy stage was fifty miles- eig!ty was good- in an emergen*y we mig!t do one !undred and ten miles in t!e twenty-four !ours- twi*e t!e G!a+ala, our greatest *amel, did one !undred and forty-t!ree alone wit! me# 'ells were seldom a !undred miles apart, so t!e pint reserve was latitude enoug!# 8ur si3 wee&s? food gave us *apa*ity for a t!ousand miles out and !ome# (!e enduran*e of our *amels made it possi le for us Bfor me, t!e *amel-novi*e in t!e army, ?painful? would e t!e fitter wordC to ride fifteen !undred miles in t!irty days, wit!out fear of starvation) e*ause, even if we e3*eeded in time, ea*! of us sat on two !undred pounds of potential meat, and t!e man made *amelless *ould dou le- an& anot!er, riding two-up, in emergen*y# (!e e@uipment of t!e raiding parties s!ould aim at simpli*ity) wit!, nevert!eless, a te*!ni*al superiority over t!e (ur&s in t!e *riti*al department# . sent to 4gypt demands for great @uantities of lig!t automati* guns, $ot*!&iss or 2ewis, to e used as snipers? tools# (!e men we trained to t!em were &ept deli erately ignorant of t!e me*!anism, not to waste speed in a*tion upon efforts at repair# 8urs were attles of minutes, foug!t at eig!teen miles an !our# .f a gun >ammed, t!e gunner must t!row it aside and go in wit! !is rifle# Anot!er distinguis!ing feature mig!t e !ig! e3plosives# 'e evolved spe*ial dynamite met!ods, and y t!e end of t!e war *ould demolis! any @uantity of tra*& and ridges wit! e*onomy and safety# Allen y was generous wit! e3plosive# .t was only guns we never got until t!e last mont!--and t!e pity of itA .n manoeuvre war one long-range gun outweig!ed ninety-nine s!ort# (!e distri ution of t!e raiding parties was unort!odo3# 'e *ould not mi3 or *om ine tri es, e*ause of t!eir distrusts- nor *ould we use one in t!e territory of anot!er# .n *ompensation we aimed at t!e widest dissipation of for*e) and we added fluidity to speed y using one distri*t on Monday, anot!er on (uesday, a t!ird on 'ednesday# (!us natural mo ility was reinfor*ed# .n pursuit, our ran&s refilled wit! fres! men at ea*! new tri e, and maintained t!e pristine energy# .n a real sense ma3imum disorder was our e@uili rium# (!e internal e*onomy of our raiding parties a*!ieved irregularity and e3treme arti*ulation# 8ur *ir*umstan*es were not twi*e similar, so no system *ould fit t!em twi*e- and our diversity t!rew t!e enemy intelligen*e off t!e tra*&# %y identi*al attalions and divisions information uilt itself up, until a *orps *ould e inferred on *orpses from t!ree *ompanies# 8ur strengt!s depended upon w!im# 'e were serving a *ommon ideal, wit!out tri al emulation, and so *ould not !ope for esprit de corps# 8rdinary soldiers were made a *aste eit!er y great rewards in pay, dress and privilege- or y eing

*ut off from life y *ontempt# 'e *ould not so &nit man to man, for our tri esmen were in arms willingly# Many armies !ad een voluntarily enlisted- few served voluntarily# Any of our Ara s *ould go !ome wit!out penalty w!enever t!e *onvi*tion failed !im- t!e only *ontra*t was !onour# Conse@uently we !ad no dis*ipline in t!e sense in w!i*! it was restri*tive, su mergent of individuality, t!e 2owest Common Denominator of men# .n pea*e-armies dis*ipline meant t!e !unt, not of an average ut of an a solute) t!e !undred per *ent standard in w!i*! t!e ninety-nine were played down to t!e level of t!e wea&est man on parade# (!e aim was to render t!e unit a unit, t!e man a type) in order t!at t!eir effort mig!t e *al*ula le, and t!e *olle*tive output even in grain and ul&# (!e deeper t!e dis*ipline, t!e lower was t!e individual e3*ellen*e) also t!e more sure t!e performan*e# %y t!is su stitution of a sure >o for a possi le masterpie*e, military s*ien*e made a deli erate sa*rifi*e of *apa*ity in order to redu*e t!e un*ertain element, t!e ionomi* fa*tor, in enlisted !umanity# Dis*ipline?s ne*essary a**ompaniment was *ompound or so*ial war--t!at form in w!i*! t!e fig!ting man was t!e produ*t of t!e multiplied e3ertions of a long !ierar*!y, from wor&s!op to supply unit, w!i*! &ept !im a*tive in t!e field# (!e Ara war s!ould rea*t against t!is, and e simple and individual# 4very enrolled man s!ould serve in t!e line of attle and e self-*ontained t!ere# (!e effi*ien*y of our for*es was t!e personal effi*ien*y of t!e single man# .t seemed to me t!at, in our arti*ulated war, t!e sum yielded y single men would at least e@ual t!e produ*t of a *ompound system of t!e same strengt!# .n pra*ti*e we s!ould not employ in t!e firing line t!e great num ers w!i*! a simple system put t!eoreti*ally at our disposal, lest our atta*& Bas *ontrasted wit! our t!reatC e*ome too e3tended# (!e moral strain of isolated fig!ting made ?simple? war very !ard upon t!e soldier, e3a*ting from !im spe*ial initiative, enduran*e, ent!usiasm# .rregular war was far more intelle*tual t!an a ayonet *!arge, far more e3!austing t!an servi*e in t!e *omforta le imitative o edien*e of an ordered army# Guerillas must e allowed li eral wor& room- in irregular war, of two men toget!er, one was eing wasted# 8ur ideal s!ould e to ma&e our attle a series of single *om ats, our ran&s a !appy allian*e of agile *ommanders-in-*!ief#

&()PTE" L.
<essels steamed up t!e Gulf of A&a a# :eisal landed, and wit! !im /aafar, !is staff, and /oy*e, t!e fairy godmot!er# (!ere *ame t!e armoured *ars, Goslett, 4gyptian la ourers and t!ousands of troops# (o repair t!e si3 wee&s? pea*e, :al&en!ayn !ad een down to advise t!e (ur&s, and !is fine intelligen*e made t!em wort!ier our opposition# Maan was a spe*ial *ommand, under %e!>et, t!e old G#8#C# Sinai# $e !ad si3 t!ousand infantry, a regiment of *avalry and mounted infantry, and !ad entren*!ed Maan till it was impregna le a**ording to t!e standard of manoeuvre war# A flig!t of aeroplanes operated daily t!en*e# Great supply dumps !ad een *olle*ted# %y now t!e (ur&is! preparations were *omplete) t!ey egan to move, dis*losing t!at t!eir o >e*tive was Guweira, t!e est road for A&a a# (wo t!ousand infantry pus!ed out to A a el 2issan, and fortified it# Cavalry &ept t!e outs&irts, to *ontain a possi le Ara *ounter-stro&e from t!e 'adi Musa side# (!is nervousness was our *ue# 'e would play wit! t!em and provo&e t!em to go for us in 'adi Musa, w!ere t!e natural o sta*les were so tremendous t!at t!e !uman defending fa*tor mig!t e!ave as adly as it li&ed, and yet !old t!e pla*e against atta*&# (o ait t!e !oo&, t!e men of neig! ouring Delag!a were set usy# (!e (ur&s, full of spirit, put in a *ounter-stro&e, and suffered s!arply# 'e ru ed into t!e peasantry of 'adi Musa t!e ri*! ooty now en>oyed y t!eir rivals of Delag!a# Maulud, t!e old war-!orse, went up wit! !is mule-mounted regiment, and @uartered !imself among t!e famous ruins of ,etra# (!e en*ouraged 2iat!ena, under t!eir one-eyed s!ei&!, ;!alil, egan to foray out a*ross t!e plateau, and to snap up y twos and t!rees

(ur&is! riding or transport animals, toget!er wit! t!e rifles of t!eir o**asional guards# (!is went on for wee&s, w!ile t!e irritated (ur&s grew !otter and !otter# 'e *ould also pri*& t!e (ur&s into dis*omfort y as&ing General Salmond for !is promised longdistan*e air raid on Maan# As it was diffi*ult, Salmond !ad *!osen Stent, wit! ot!er tried pilots of "a eg! or 'e>!, and told t!em to do t!eir est# (!ey !ad e3perien*e of for*ed landing on desert surfa*es and *ould pi*& out an un&nown destination a*ross unmapped !ills- Stent spo&e Ara i* perfe*tly# (!e flig!t !ad to e air-*ontained, ut its *ommander was full of resour*e and display, li&e ot!er undles of nerves, w!o, to punis! t!emselves, did outrageous t!ings# 8n t!is o**asion !e ordered low flying, to ma&e sure t!e aim) and profited y rea*!ing Maan, and dropping t!irty-two om s in and a out t!e unprepared station# (wo om s into t!e arra*&s &illed t!irty-five men and wounded fifty# 4ig!t stru*& t!e engine-s!ed, !eavily damaging t!e plant and sto*&# A om in t!e General?s &it*!en finis!ed !is *oo& and !is rea&fast# :our fell on t!e aerodrome# Despite t!e s!rapnel our pilots and engines returned safely to t!eir temporary landing ground at ;untilla a ove A&a a# (!at afternoon t!ey pat*!ed t!e ma*!ines, and after dar& slept under t!eir wings# .n t!e following dawn t!ey were off on*e more, t!ree of t!em t!is time, to A a el 2issan, w!ere t!e sig!t of t!e great *amp !ad made Stent?s mout! water# (!ey om ed t!e !orse lines and stampeded t!e animals, visited t!e tents and s*attered t!e (ur&s# As on t!e day efore, t!ey flew low and were mu*! !it, ut not fatally# 2ong efore noon t!ey were a*& in ;untilla# Stent loo&ed over t!e remaining petrol and om s, and de*ided t!ey were enoug! for one more effort# So !e gave dire*tions to everyone to loo& for t!e attery w!i*! !ad trou led t!em in t!e morning# (!ey started in t!e midday !eat# (!eir loads were so !eavy t!ey *ould get no !eig!t, and t!erefore *ame lundering over t!e *rest e!ind A a el 2issan, and down t!e valley at a out t!ree !undred feet# (!e (ur&s, always somnolent at noon, were ta&en *ompletely y surprise# (!irty om s were dropped- one silen*ed t!e attery, t!e ot!ers &illed do+ens of men and animals# (!en t!e lig!tened ma*!ines soared up and !ome to 4l Aris!# (!e Ara s re>oi*ed- t!e (ur&s were seriously alarmed# %e!>et ,as!a set !is men to digging s!elters, and w!en !is aeroplanes !ad een repaired, !e disposed t!em inno*uously a out t!e plateau for *amp defen*e# %y air we !ad pertur ed t!e (ur&s- y irritative raids we were luring t!em towards a wrong o >e*tive# 8ur t!ird resour*e to ruin t!eir offensive was to !inder t!e railway, w!ose need would ma&e t!em split up t!e stri&ing for*e on defensive duties# A**ordingly we arranged many demolitions for midSeptem er# . de*ided also to revive t!e old idea of mining a train# Somet!ing more vigorous and *ertain t!an automati* mines was indi*ated, and . !ad imagined a dire*t firing, y ele*tri*ity, of a *!arge under t!e lo*omotive# (!e %ritis! sappers en*ouraged me to try, espe*ially General 'rig!t, t!e *!ief engineer in 4gypt, w!ose e3perien*e too& a sporting interest in my irregularities# $e sent me t!e re*ommended tools- an e3ploder and some insulated *a le# 'it! t!em . went on oard $#M#S# )umber, our new guard-s!ip, and introdu*ed myself to Captain Snagge, in *ommand# Snagge was fortunate in !is s!ip, w!i*! !ad een uilt for %ra+il, and was mu*! more *omforta ly furnis!ed t!an %ritis! monitors) and we were dou ly fortunate in !im and in t!is, for !e was t!e spirit of !ospitality# $is in@uiring nature too& interest in t!e s!ore, and saw t!e *omi* side even of our petty disasters# (o tell !im t!e story of a failure was to laug! at it, and always for a good story !e gave me a !ot at!, and tea wit! *ivili+ed trappings, free from every suspi*ion of lown sand# $is &indness and !elp served us in lieu of visits to 4gypt for repairs, and ena led us to !ammer on against t!e (ur&s t!roug! mont! after mont! of fe*&less disappointment# (!e e3ploder was in a formida le lo*&ed w!ite o3, very !eavy# 'e split it open, found a rat*!et !andle, and pus!ed it down wit!out !arming t!e s!ip# (!e wire was !eavy ru er-insulated *a le# 'e *ut it in !alf, fastened t!e ends to s*rew terminals on t!e o3, and transmitted s!o*&s to one anot!er *onvin*ingly# .t wor&ed# . fet*!ed detonators# 'e stuffed t!e free ends of t!e *a le into one and pumped t!e !andle- not!ing

followed# 'e tried again and again ineffe*tually, grieving over it# At last Snagge rang !is ell for t!e gunner warrant offi*er w!o &new all a out *ir*uits# $e suggested spe*ial ele*tri* detonators# (!e s!ip *arried si3, and gave me t!ree of t!em# 'e >oined one up wit! our o3, and w!en t!e !andle was *ras!ed down it popped off eautifully# So . felt t!at . &new all a out it and turned to arrange t!e details of t!e raid# 8f targets, t!e most promising and easiest-rea*!ed seemed Mudowwara, a water station eig!ty miles sout! of Maan# A smas!ed train t!ere would em arrass t!e enemy# :or men, . would !ave t!e tried $oweitat) and, at t!e same time, t!e e3pedition would test t!e t!ree $aurani peasants w!om . !ad added to my personal followers# .n view of t!e new importan*e of t!e $auran, t!ere was need for us to learn its diale*t, t!e *onstru*tion and >ealousies of its *lan-framewor&, and its names and roads# (!ese t!ree fellows, "a!ail, Assaf and $emeid would tea*! me t!eir !ome-affairs imper*epti ly, as we rode on usiness, *!atting# (o ma&e sure of t!e arrested train re@uired guns and ma*!ine-guns# :or t!e first, w!y not tren*!mortarsJ :or t!e se*ond, 2ewis gunsJ A**ordingly, 4gypt *!ose two for*eful sergeant-instru*tors from t!e Army S*!ool at Geitun, to tea*! s@uads of Ara s in A&a a !ow to use su*! t!ings# Snagge gave t!em @uarters in !is s!ip, sin*e we !ad, as yet, no *onvenient 4nglis! *amp as!ore# (!eir names may !ave een 1ells and %roo&e, ut e*ame 2ewis and Sto&es after t!eir >ealouslyloved tools# 2ewis was an Australian, long, t!in and sinuous, !is supple ody lounging in unmilitary *urves# $is !ard fa*e, ar*!ed eye rows, and predatory nose set off t!e pe*uliarly Australian air of re*&less willingness and *apa*ity to do somet!ing very soon# Sto&es was a sto*&y 4nglis! yeoman, wor&manli&e and silent) always wat*!ing for an order to o ey# 2ewis, full of suggestion, emerged ursting wit! delig!t at w!at !ad een well done w!enever a t!ing !appened# Sto&es never offered opinion until after a*tion, w!en !e would stir !is *ap refle*tively, and painsta&ingly re*ount t!e mista&es !e must ne3t time avoid# %ot! were admira le men# .n a mont!, wit!out *ommon language or interpreter, t!ey got on terms wit! t!eir *lasses and taug!t t!em t!eir weapons wit! reasona le pre*ision# More was not re@uired- for an empiri*al !a it appeared to agree wit! t!e spirit of our !ap!a+ard raids etter t!an *omplete s*ientifi* &nowledge# As we wor&ed at t!e organi+ation of t!e raid, our appetites rose# Mudowwara station sounded vulnera le# (!ree !undred men mig!t rus! it suddenly# (!at would e an a*!ievement, for its deep well was t!e only one in t!e dry se*tor elow Maan# 'it!out its water, t!e train servi*e a*ross t!e gap would e*ome une*onomi* in load#

&()PTE" L.I
2ewis, t!e Australian, at su*! an am itious moment, said t!at !e and Sto&es would li&e to e of my party# A new, attra*tive idea# 'it! t!em we s!ould feel sure of our te*!ni*al deta*!ments, w!ilst atta*&ing a garrisoned pla*e# Also, t!e sergeants wanted to go very mu*!, and t!eir good wor& deserved reward# (!ey were warned t!at t!eir e3perien*es mig!t not at t!e moment seem altoget!er >oyful# (!ere were no rules) and t!ere *ould e no mitigation of t!e mar*!ing, feeding, and fig!ting, inland# .f t!ey went t!ey would lose t!eir %ritis! Army *omfort and privilege, to s!are and s!are wit! t!e Ara s Be3*ept in ootyAC and suffer e3a*tly t!eir !ap in food and dis*ipline# .f anyt!ing went wrong wit! me, t!ey, not spea&ing Ara i*, would e in a tender position# 2ewis replied t!at !e was loo&ing for >ust t!is strangeness of life# Sto&es supposed t!at if we did it, !e *ould# So t!ey were lent two of my est *amels Bt!eir saddle- ags tig!t wit! ully- eef and is*uitsC and on Septem er t!e sevent! we went toget!er up 'adi .tm, to *olle*t our $oweitat from Auda in Guweira# :or t!e sergeants? sa&e, to !arden t!em gently, t!ings were made etter t!an my word# 'e mar*!ed very easily for to-day, w!ile we were our own masters# 0eit!er !ad een on a *amel efore, and t!ere was ris& t!at t!e fearful !eat of t!e na&ed granite walls of .tm mig!t &no*& t!em out efore t!e trip

!ad properly egun# Septem er was a ad mont!# A few days efore, in t!e s!ade of t!e palm-gardens of A&a a ea*!, t!e t!ermometer !ad s!own a !undred and twenty degrees# So we !alted for midday under a *liff, and in t!e evening rode only ten miles to *amp for t!e nig!t# 'e were *omforta le wit! *ans of !ot tea, and ri*e and meat) and it was *overtly en>oya le to wat*! t!e per*ussion of t!eir surroundings on t!e two men# 4a*! rea*ted to t!e type e3pe*ted# (!e Australian from t!e first seemed at !ome, and e!aved freely towards t!e Ara s# '!en t!ey fell into !is spirit, and returned t!e fellows!ip, !e was astonis!ed- almost resentful- !aving never imagined t!at t!ey would e misled y !is &indness to forget t!e differen*e etween a w!ite man and a rown# .t added !umour to t!e situation t!at !e was rowner y far t!an my new followers, of w!om t!e youngest interested me most# $e, "a!ail, was @uite a lad- a free- uilt, sturdy fellow, too fles!y for t!e Me we were to lead, ut for t!at t!e more tolerant of pains# $is fa*e was !ig!-*oloured) !is *!ee&s a little full and low-pou*!ed, almost pendent# (!e mout! was udded and small, t!e *!in very pointed# (!is, added to t!e !ig!, strong rows and antimony-enlarged eyes, gave !im a mi3ed air of artifi*e and petulan*e, wit! weary patien*e self-imposed upon a ase of pride# $e was lowsy-spo&en Bmout!ing !is Ara i*C) vulgar in diale*t) forward and impudent in spee*!) always t!rusting, flaunting, restless and nervous# $is spirit was not as strong as !is ody, ut mer*urial# '!en e3!austed or *ross !e ro&e into misera le tears easily *!ased away y any interferen*e) and after, was fit for more enduran*e# My followers, Mo!ammed and A!med, wit! "as!id and Assaf, t!e pro ationers, gave "a!ail mu*! li*en*e of e!aviour) partly e*ause of !is animal attra*tiveness, and of !is tenden*y to advertise !is person# $e !ad to e *!e*&ed on*e or twi*e for ta&ing li erties wit! t!e sergeants# Sto&es, t!e 4nglis!man, was driven y t!e Ara strangeness to e*ome more !imself) more insular# $is s!y *orre*tness reminded my men in every movement t!at !e was unli&e t!em, and 4nglis!# Su*! *onsideration eli*ited a return of respe*t# (o t!em !e was ?t!e sergeant?, w!ile 2ewis was ?t!e long one?# (!ese were points of *!ara*ter, w!i*! all s!owed in t!eir degree# .t was !umiliating to find t!at our oo&-e3perien*e of all *ountries and ages still left us pre>udi*ed li&e was!erwomen, ut wit!out t!eir ver al a ility to get on terms wit! strangers# (!e 4nglis!men in t!e Middle 4ast divided into two *lasses# Class one, su tle and insinuating, *aug!t t!e *!ara*teristi*s of t!e people a out !im, t!eir spee*!, t!eir *onventions of t!oug!t, almost t!eir manner# $e dire*ted men se*retly, guiding t!em as !e would# .n su*! fri*tionless !a it of influen*e !is own nature lay !id, unnoti*ed# Class two, t!e /o!n %ull of t!e oo&s, e*ame t!e more rampantly 4nglis! t!e longer !e was away from 4ngland# $e invented an 8ld Country for !imself, a !ome of all remem ered virtues, so splendid in t!e distan*e t!at, on return, !e often found reality a sad falling off and wit!drew !is muddle-!eaded self into fra*tious advo*a*y of t!e good old times# A road, t!roug! !is armoured *ertainty, !e was a rounded sample of our traits# $e s!owed t!e *omplete 4nglis!man# (!ere was fri*tion in !is tra*&, and !is dire*tion was less smoot! t!an t!at of t!e intelle*tual type- yet !is stout e3ample *ut wider swat!e# %ot! sorts too& t!e same dire*tion in e3ample, one vo*iferously, t!e ot!er y impli*ation# 4a*! assumed t!e 4nglis!man a *!osen eing, inimita le, and t!e *opying !im lasp!emous or impertinent# .n t!is *on*eit t!ey urged on people t!e ne3t est t!ing# God !ad not given it t!em to e 4nglis!) a duty remained to e good of t!eir type# Conse@uently we admired native *ustom) studied t!e language) wrote oo&s a out its ar*!ite*ture, fol&lore, and dying industries# (!en one day, we wo&e up to find t!is *!t!oni* spirit turned politi*al, and s!oo& our !eads wit! sorrow over its ungrateful nationalism--truly t!e fine flower of our inno*ent efforts# (!e :ren*!, t!oug! t!ey started wit! a similar do*trine of t!e :ren*!man as t!e perfe*tion of man&ind Bdogma amongst t!em, not se*ret instin*tC, went on, *ontrarily, to en*ourage t!eir su >e*ts to imitate t!em) sin*e, even if t!ey *ould never attain t!e true level, yet t!eir virtue would e greater as t!ey approa*!ed it# 'e loo&ed upon imitation as a parody) t!ey as a *ompliment#

0e3t day, in t!e early !eat, we were near Guweira, *omforta ly *rossing t!e sanded plain of restful pin& wit! its grey-green undergrowt!, w!en t!ere *ame a droning t!roug! t!e air# Hui*&ly we drove t!e *amels off t!e open road into t!e us!-spe*&led ground, w!ere t!eir irregular *olouring would not e mar&ed y t!e enemy airmen) for t!e loads of lasting gelatine, my favourite and most powerful e3plosive, and t!e many ammonal-filled s!ells of t!e Sto&es? gun would e ill neig! ours in a om ing raid# 'e waited t!ere, so erly, in t!e saddle w!ile our *amels gra+ed t!e little w!i*! was wort! eating in t!e s*ru , until t!e aeroplane !ad *ir*led twi*e a out t!e ro*& of Guweira in front of us, and planted t!ree loud om s# 'e *olle*ted our *aravan again on t!e pat! and pa*ed gently into *amp# Guweira was t!ronged wit! life, and a mart for t!e $oweitat of ot! !ills and !ig!lands# As far as t!e eye rea*!ed t!e plain was softly moving wit! !erded *amels, w!ose multitude drained t!e near water-!oles ea*! morning efore dawn, so t!at late risers must travel many miles to drin&# (!is was little matter, for t!e Ara s !ad not!ing to do ut wait for t!e morning aeroplane) and after its passing, not!ing ut tal& to &ill time till nig!t was full enoug! for sleep# (!e tal& and leisure were too plentiful and !ad revived old >ealousies# Auda was am itious to ta&e advantage of our dependen*e on !is !elp to assort t!e tri es# $e drew t!e ul&-wages for t!e $oweitat) and, y t!e money, soug!t to *ompel t!e smaller free-se*tions to !is leaders!ip# (!ey resented it, and were t!reatening eit!er to retire into t!eir !ills or to re-open tou*! wit! t!e (ur&s# :eisal sent up S!erif Mastur as mediator# (!e t!ousands of $oweitat, in !undreds of se*tions, were un*ompromising, !ard-!eaded, greedy land-lawyers# (o !old t!em *ontent wit!out angering Auda was tas& deli*ate enoug! for t!e most fastidious mind# Also, it was one !undred and ten degrees in t!e s!ade, and t!e s!ade was a surge of flies# (!e t!ree sout!ern *lans on w!om we !ad een *ounting for our raid were among t!e dissidents# Mastur spo&e to t!em, t!e *!iefs of t!e A u (ayi spo&e, we all spo&e, wit!out effe*t# .t seemed as t!oug! our plans were to rea& down at t!e start# 8ne day, going along efore noon under t!e ro*&, Mastur met me wit! news t!at t!e sout!erners were mounting to desert our *amp and movement# :ull of ve3ation, . swung round into Auda?s tent# $e sat on its sand-floor, feeding on oiled read wit! !is latest wife, a >olly girl, w!ose rown s&in was lue wit! t!e indigo dye from !er new smo*&# '!en . suddenly urst in, t!e little woman w!is&ed away t!roug! t!e a*&-flap li&e a ra it# (o gain ground wit! !im, . egan to >eer at t!e old man for eing so old and yet so foolis! li&e t!e rest of !is ra*e, w!o regarded our *omi* reprodu*tive pro*esses not as an un!ygieni* pleasure, ut as a main usiness of life# Auda retorted wit! !is desire for !eirs# . as&ed if !e !ad found life good enoug! to t!an& !is !ap!a+ard parents for ringing !im into itJ or selfis!ly to *onfer t!e dou tful gift upon an un orn spiritJ $e maintained !imself# ?.ndeed, . am Auda,? said !e, firmly, ?and you &now Auda# My fat!er Bto w!om God e mer*ifulC was master, greater t!an Auda) and !e would praise my grandfat!er# (!e world is greater as we go a*&#? ?%ut, Auda, we say !onour our sons and daug!ters, t!e !eirs of our a**umulated wort!, fulfillers of our ro&en wisdom# 'it! ea*! generation t!e eart! is older, man&ind more removed from its *!ild!ood # # #? (!e old t!ing, not to-day to e teased, loo&ed at me t!roug! !is narrowed eyes wit! a enign !umour, and pointed to A u (ayi, !is son, out on t!e plain efore us trying a new *amel, anging it on t!e ne*& wit! !is sti*& in vain effort to ma&e it pa*e li&e a t!oroug! red# ?8 world?s imp,? said !e, ?if God please !e !as in!erited my wort!, ut t!an& God not yet my strengt!) and if . find fault wit! !im . will redden !is tail# 0o dou t you are very wise#? (!e ups!ot of our tal& was t!at . s!ould go off to a *lean spot, to wait events# 'e !ired twenty *amels to *arry t!e e3plosives) and t!e morrow, two !ours after t!e aeroplane, was fi3ed for our start# (!e aeroplane was t!e @uaint regulator of pu li* usiness in t!e Guweira *amp# (!e Ara s, up as ever

efore dawn, waited for it- Mastur set a slave on t!e *rag?s pea& to sound t!e first warning# '!en its *onstant !our drew near t!e Ara s would saunter, *!atting in parade of *arelessness, towards t!e ro*&# Arrived eneat! it, ea*! man *lim ed to t!e ledge !e favoured# After Mastur would *lim t!e evy of !is slaves, wit! !is *offee on t!e ra+ier, and !is *arpet# .n a s!aded noo& !e and Auda would sit and tal& till t!e little s!iver of e3*itement tig!tened up and down t!e *rowded ledges w!en first was !eard t!e song of t!e engine over t!e pass of S!tar# 4veryone pressed a*& against t!e wall and waited stilly w!ile t!e enemy *ir*led vainly a ove t!e strange spe*ta*le of t!is *rimson ro*& anded wit! t!ousands of gaily-dressed Ara s, nesting li&e i ises in every *ranny of its fa*e# (!e aeroplane dropped t!ree om s, or four om s, or five om s, a**ording to t!e day of t!e wee&# (!eir ursts of dense smo&e sat on t!e sage-green plain *ompa*tly li&e *ream-puffs) writ!ing for minutes in t!e windless air efore t!ey slowly spread and faded# (!oug! we &new t!ere was no mena*e in it, yet we *ould not ut *at*! our reat! w!en t!e s!arpgrowing *ry of t!e falling om s *ame t!roug! t!e loud engine over!ead#

&()PTE" L.II
Gladly we left t!e noise and !eart- urning of Guweira# So soon as we !ad lost our es*ort of flies we !alted- indeed t!ere was no need of !aste, and t!e two unfortunate fellows wit! me were tasting of su*! !eat as t!ey !ad never &nown- for t!e stifling air was li&e a metal mas& over our fa*es# .t was admira le to see t!em struggle not to spea& of it, t!at t!ey mig!t &eep t!e spirit of t!e A&a a underta&ing to endure as firmly as t!e Ara s) ut y t!is silen*e t!e sergeants went far past t!eir ond# .t was ignoran*e of Ara i* w!i*! made t!em so superfluously rave, for t!e Ara s t!emselves were loud against t!e tyrannous sun and t!e reat!lessness) ut t!e test-effe*t was w!olesome) and, for effe*t, . played a out, seeming to en>oy myself# .n t!e late afternoon we mar*!ed furt!er and stopped for t!e nig!t under a t!i*& s*reen of tamaris&trees# (!e *amp was very eautiful, for e!ind us rose a *liff, per!aps four !undred feet in !eig!t, a deep red in t!e level sunset# 9nder our feet was spread a floor of uff-*oloured mud, as !ard and muffled as wood-paving, flat li&e a la&e for !alf a mile ea*! way- and on a low ridge to one side of it stood t!e grove of tamaris&-stems of rown wood, edged wit! a sparse and dusty fringe of green, w!i*! !ad een faded y droug!t and suns!ine till it was nearly of t!e silvered grey elow t!e oliveleaves a out 2es %au3, w!en a wind from t!e river-mout! rustled up t!e valley-grass and made t!e trees turn pale# 'e were riding for "umm, t!e nort!ern water of t!e %eni Atiye!- A pla*e w!i*! stirred my t!oug!t, as even t!e unsentimental $owei-tat !ad told me it was lovely# (!e morrow would e new wit! our entry to it- ut very early, w!ile t!e stars were yet s!ining, . was roused y Aid, t!e !um le $arit!i S!erif a**ompanying us# $e *rept to me, and said in a *!illed voi*e, ?2ord, . am gone lind?# . made !im lie down, and felt t!at !e s!ivered as if *old) ut all !e *ould tell me was t!at in t!e nig!t, wa&ing up, t!ere !ad een no sig!t, only pain in !is eyes# (!e sun- lin& !ad urned t!em out#

Alle%"y Day was still young as we rode etween two great pi&es of sandstone to t!e foot of a long, soft slope poured down from t!e domed !ills in front of us# .t was tamaris&-*overed- t!e eginning of t!e <alley of "umm, t!ey said# 'e loo&ed up on t!e left to a long wall of ro*&, s!eering in li&e a t!ousand-foot wave towards t!e middle of t!e valley) w!ose ot!er ar*, to t!e rig!t, was an opposing line of steep, red ro&en !ills# 'e rode up t!e slope, *ras!ing our way t!roug! t!e rittle undergrowt!# As we went, t!e rus!wood grouped itself into t!i*&ets w!ose massed leaves too& on a stronger tint of green t!e purer for t!eir *ontrasted setting in plots of open sand of a *!eerful deli*ate pin&# (!e as*ent e*ame gentle, till the valley was a *onfined tilted plain# (!e !ills on t!e rig!t grew taller and s!arper, a fair *ounterpart of t!e ot!er side w!i*! straig!tened itself to one massive rampart of redness# (!ey drew toget!er until only two miles divided t!em- and t!en, towering gradually till t!eir parallel parapets must !ave een a t!ousand feet a ove us, ran forward in an avenue for miles# (!ey were not un ro&en walls of ro*&, ut were uilt se*tionally, in *rags li&e giganti* uildings, along t!e two sides of t!eir street# Deep alleys, fifty feet a*ross, divided t!e *rags, w!ose plans were smoot!ed y t!e weat!er into !uge apses and ays, and enri*!ed wit! surfa*e fretting and fra*ture, li&e design# Caverns !ig! up on t!e pre*ipi*e were round li&e windows- ot!ers near t!e foot gaped li&e doors# Dar& stains ran down t!e s!adowed front for !undreds of feet, li&e a**idents of use# (!e *liffs were striated verti*ally, in t!eir granular ro*&) w!ose main order stood on two !undred feet of ro&en stone deeper in *olour and !arder in te3ture# (!is plint! did not, li&e t!e sandstone, !ang in folds li&e *lot!) ut *!ipped itself into loose *ourses of s*ree, !ori+ontal as t!e footings of a wall# (!e *rags were *apped in nests of domes, less !otly red t!an t!e ody of t!e !ill) rat!er grey and s!allow# (!ey gave t!e finis!ing sem lan*e of %y+antine ar*!ite*ture to t!is irresisti le pla*e- t!is pro*essional way greater t!an imagination# (!e Ara armies would !ave een lost in t!e lengt! and readt! of it, and wit!in t!e walls a s@uadron of aeroplanes *ould !ave w!eeled in formation# 8ur little *aravan grew self-*ons*ious, and fell dead @uiet, afraid and as!amed to flaunt its smallness in t!e presen*e of t!e stupendous !ills# 2ands*apes, in *!ild!ood?s dream, were so vast and silent# 'e loo&ed a*&ward t!roug! our memory for t!e prototype up w!i*! all men !ad wal&ed etween su*! walls t oward su*! an open s@uare as t!at in front w!ere t!is road seemed to end# 2ater, w!en we were often riding inland, my mind used to turn me from t!e dire*t road, to *lear my senses y a nig!t in "umm and y t!e ride down its dawn-lit valley towards t!e s!ining plains, or up its valley in t!e sunset towards t!at glowing s@uare w!i*! my timid anti*ipation never let me rea*!# . would say, ?S!all . ride on t!is time, eyond t!e ;!a+ail, and

&now it allJ? %ut in trut! . li&ed "umm too mu*!# (o-day we rode for !ours w!ile t!e perspe*tives grew greater and more magnifi*ent in ordered design, till a gap in t!e *liff-fa*e opened on our rig!t to a new wonder# (!e gap, per!aps t!ree !undred yards a*ross, was a *revi*e in su*! a wall) and led to an amp!it!eatre, oval in s!ape, s!allow in front, and long-lo ed rig!t and left# (!e walls were pre*ipi*es, li&e all t!e walls of "umm) ut appeared greater, for t!e pit lay in t!e very !eart of a ruling !ill, and its smallness made t!e esetting !eig!ts seem overpowering# (!e sun !ad sun& e!ind t!e western wall, leaving t!e pit in s!adow) ut its dying glare flooded wit! startling red t!e wings ea*! side of t!e entry, and t!e fiery ul& of t!e furt!er wall a*ross t!e great valley# (!e pit-floor was of damp sand, dar&ly wooded wit! s!ru s) w!ile a out t!e feet of all t!e *liffs lay oulders greater t!an !ouses, sometimes, indeed, li&e fortresses w!i*! !ad *ras!ed down from t!e !eig!ts a ove# .n front of us a pat!, pale wit! use, +ig+agged up t!e *liff-plint! to t!e point from w!i*! t!e main fa*e rose, and t!ere it turned pre*ariously sout!ward along a s!allow ledge outlined y o**asional leafy trees# :rom etween t!ese trees, in !idden *rannies of t!e ro*&, issued strange *ries) t!e e*!oes, turned into musi*, of t!e voi*es of t!e Ara s watering *amels at t!e springs w!i*! t!ere flowed out t!ree !undred feet a ove ground# (!e rains, falling on t!e grey domes of t!e !ill-top, seemed to !ave soa&ed slowly into t!e porous ro*&) and my mind followed t!em, filtering in*! y in*! downward t!roug! t!ose mountains of sandstone till t!ey *ame against t!e impervious !ori+ontal layer of t!e plint!, and ran along its top under pressure, in >ets w!i*! urst out on t!e *liff-fa*e at t!e >un*tion of t!e two ro*&y layers# Mo!ammed turned into t!e amp!it!eatre?s left !and lo e# At its far end Ara ingenuity !ad *leared a spa*e under an over!anging ro*&- t!ere we unloaded and settled down# (!e dar& *ame upon us @ui*&ly in t!is !ig! prisoned pla*e) and we felt t!e water-laden air *old against our sun urnt s&in# (!e $oweitat w!o !ad loo&ed after t!e loads of e3plosive *olle*ted t!eir *amel drove, and led t!em wit! e*!o-testing s!outs up t!e !ill-pat! to water against t!eir early return to Guweira# 'e lit fires and *oo&ed ri*e to add to t!e sergeants? ully- eef, w!ile my *offee men prepared for t!e visitors w!o would *ome to us# (!e Ara s in t!e tents outside t!e !ollow of t!e springs !ad seen us enter, and were not slow to learn our news# .n an !our we !ad t!e !ead men of t!e Daraus!a, Gele ani, Guweida and (ogatga *lans a out us) and t!ere mounted great tal&, none too !appy# Aid, t!e S!erif, was too *ast down in !eart y !is lindness to lift t!e urden of entertainment from my s!oulders) and a wor& of su*! spe*ial re@uirements was not to e well done y me# (!ese smaller *lans, angry wit! t!e A u (ayi, suspe*ted us of a etting Auda in !is am ition to win a predominan*e over t!em# (!ey were unwilling to serve t!e S!erif till assured of !is support of t!eir e3tremest *laims# Gasim a u Dumei&, t!e fine !orseman w!o !ad led t!e !ig!land men on t!e day of A a el 2issan, seemed parti*ularly vi*ious# $e was a dar& man wit! an arrogant fa*e and t!in-lipped smile- good enoug! at !eart, ut *rusted# (o-day, !e flamed wit! >ealousy of t!e (owei!a# Alone, . *ould never win !im, so to ma&e patent !is !ostility . too& !im as adversary and foug!t !im fier*ely wit! my tongue till !e was silen*ed# .n s!ame !is audien*e deserted !im and rallied ever so little to my side# (!eir fli*&ering >udgements egan to murmur at t!e *!iefs, and to advo*ate mar*!ing off wit! me# . too& t!e *!an*e to say t!at Gaal would e !ere in t!e morning, and t!at !e and . would a**ept t!e !elp of all e3*ept t!e D!umaniye!) w!o, made impossi le y Gasim?s words, would e erased from :eisal?s oo& and forfeit t!eir earned goodwill and rewards# Gasim, swearing !e would >oin t!e (ur&s at on*e, wit!drew from t!e fireside in great anger, w!ile *autious friends tried vainly to stop !is mout!#

&()PTE" L.III
0e3t morning t!ere !e was, wit! !is men, ready to >oin or oppose us, as t!e w!im went# '!ile !e !esitated Gaal arrived# Gasim?s dourness soon *las!ed upon Gaal?s metalli* *ruelty, and t!e pair !ad

!ig! words# 'e got etween t!em efore a fig!t *ould start, ut enoug! passed to overt!row t!e wea& arrangement of t!e nig!t# (!e ot!er *lans, disgusted at Gasim?s fier*eness, *ame to us @uietly in twos and t!rees, as volunteers) ut egged me to ma&e t!eir loyalty &nown to :eisal efore we started# (!eir dou ts determined me to *ommuni*ate at on*e wit! !im, partly t!at t!is trou le mig!t e *omposed, and partly to raise *amels for *arrying t!e e3plosives# (o !ire D!umaniye! *amels would not e fitting) and t!ere were no ot!ers !ere# (!e est way was to go myself) e*ause w!ile Gasim mig!t stop a messenger, !e would not dare !inder me# (!e two sergeants were *ommended to Gaal, w!o swore to answer for t!eir lives) and off went A!med and myself on stripped *amels, meaning to !urry to A&a a and a*&# 'e &new only t!e very long way y 'adi .tm# A s!ort *ut e3isted, ut we *ould find no guide to it# <ainly we sear*!ed up and down t!e valley) and were in despair w!en a oy lurted out t!at we s!ould go along t!e ne3t valley to our rig!t# %y it, after an !our, we were on a waters!ed from w!i*! valleys trended away westward# (!ey *ould lead only into 'adi .tm, for t!ere was no ot!er drainage !erea outs t!roug! t!e !ills to t!e sea) and we ra*ed down t!em, ever and again *utting at a venture a*ross ridges on our rig!t into parallel tri utaries, to s!orten t!e assumed line# .n t!e eginning it was *lean sandstone *ountry, of pleasant ro*&-s!apes- ut as we went spines of granite, t!e material of t!e s!ore, rose up in front of us, and after t!irty miles of good trotting gradient we passed, y t!e sout!ern .tm, into t!e main valley, >ust a ove t!e well of t!e surrender of A&a a# (!e >ourney too& us only si3 !ours# .n A&a a we rode straig!t to :eisal?s !ouse# My sudden return s*ared !im, ut a word e3plained t!e little drama w!i*! was eing played at "umm# After we !ad fed we too& t!e ne*essary steps# (!e twenty aggage *amels s!ould start up in two days wit! enoug! of :eisal?s *amel-men to transport t!e e3plosives, and a few of !is personal slaves to guard t!em# $e would lend me S!erif A dulla el :eir, t!e est of !is !en*!men now in *amp, as mediator# (!e families of t!e men w!o rode wit! me to t!e railway s!ould draw provisions from !is stores on my *ertifi*ate# A dulla and . went off efore dawn, and in t!e afternoon, after a friendly ride, rea*!ed "umm to find all safe- so an3iety was lifted# S!erif A dulla at on*e got to wor&# $aving *olle*ted t!e Ara s, in*luding t!e re*al*itrant Gasim, !e egan to smoot! over t!eir griefs wit! t!at ready persuasiveness w!i*! was t!e irt!mar& of an Ara leader, and w!i*! all !is e3perien*e served to w!et# .n t!e idleness for*ed on !im y our a sen*e, 2ewis !ad e3plored t!e *liff, and reported t!e springs very good for was!ing in) so, to get rid of t!e dust and strain after my long rides, . went straig!t up t!e gully into t!e fa*e of t!e !ill, along t!e ruined wall of t!e *onduit y w!i*! a spout of water !ad on*e run down t!e ledges to a 0a atasan well-!ouse on t!e valley floor# .t was a *lim of fifteen minutes to a tired person, and not diffi*ult# At t!e top, t!e waterfall, el S!ellala as t!e Ara s named it, was only a few yards away# .ts rus!ing noise *ame from my left, y a >utting astion of *liff over w!ose *rimson fa*e trailed long falling runners of green leaves# (!e pat! s&irted it in an under*ut ledge# 8n t!e ro*&- ulge a ove were *lear-*ut 0a at!aean ins*riptions, and a sun& panel in*ised wit! a monogram or sym ol# Around and a out were Ara s*rat*!es, in*luding tri e-mar&s, some of w!i*! were witnesses of forgotten migrations- ut my attention was only for t!e splas!ing of water in a *revi*e under t!e s!adow of t!e over!anging ro*&# :rom t!is ro*& a silver runlet issued into t!e sunlig!t# . loo&ed in to see t!e spout, a little t!inner t!an my wrist, >etting out firmly from a fissure in t!e roof, and falling wit! t!at *lean sound into a s!allow, frot!ing pool, e!ind t!e step w!i*! served as entran*e# (!e walls and roof of t!e *revi*e dripped wit! moisture# (!i*& ferns and grasses of t!e finest green made it a paradise >ust five feet s@uare# 9pon t!e water-*leansed and fragrant ledge . undressed my soiled ody, and stepped into t!e little asin, to taste at last a fres!ness of moving air and water against my tired s&in# .t was deli*iously *ool# . lay t!ere @uietly, letting t!e *lear, dar& red water run over me in a ri ly stream, and ru t!e

travel-dirt away# '!ile . was so !appy, a grey- earded, ragged man, wit! a !ewn fa*e of great power and weariness, *ame slowly along t!e pat! till opposite t!e spring) and t!ere !e let !imself down wit! a sig! upon my *lot!es spread out over a ro*& eside t!e pat!, for t!e sun-!eat to *!ase out t!eir t!ronging vermin# $e !eard me and leaned forward, peering wit! r!eumy eyes at t!is w!ite t!ing splas!ing in t!e !ollow eyond t!e veil of sun-mist# After a long stare !e seemed *ontent, and *losed !is eyes, groaning, ?(!e love is from God) and of God) and towards God?# $is low-spo&en words were *aug!t y some tri*& distin*tly in my water pool# (!ey stopped me suddenly# . !ad elieved Semites una le to use love as a lin& etween t!emselves and God, indeed, una le to *on*eive su*! a relation e3*ept wit! t!e intelle*tuality of Spino+a, w!o loved so rationally and se3lessly, and trans*endently t!at !e did not see&, or rat!er !ad not permitted, a return# C!ristianity !ad seemed to me t!e first *reed to pro*laim love in t!is upper world, from w!i*! t!e desert and t!e Semite Bfrom Moses to GenoC !ad s!ut it out- and C!ristianity was a !y rid, e3*ept in its first root not essentially Semiti*# .ts irt! in Galilee !ad saved it from eing >ust one more of t!e innumera le revelations of t!e Semite# Galilee was Syria?s non-Semiti* provin*e, *onta*t wit! w!i*! was almost un*leanness for t!e perfe*t /ew# 2i&e '!ite*!apel to 2ondon, it lay alien to /erusalem# C!rist y *!oi*e passed !is ministry in its intelle*tual freedom) not among t!e mud-!uts of a Syrian village, ut in polis!ed streets among fora and pillared !ouses and ro*o*o at!s, produ*ts of an intense if very e3oti* provin*ial and *orrupt Gree& *ivili+ation# (!e people of t!is stranger-*olony were not Gree&--at least not in t!e ma>ority-- ut 2evantines of sorts, aping a Gree& *ulture) and in revenge produ*ing, not t!e *orre*t anal $ellenism of t!e e3!austed !omeland, ut a tropi*al ran&ness of idea, in w!i*! t!e r!yt!mi*al alan*e of Gree& art and Gree& ideality lossomed into novel s!apes tawdry wit! t!e larded passionate *olours of t!e 4ast# Gadarene poets, stuttering t!eir verses in t!e prevailing e3*itement, !eld a mirror to t!e sensuality and disillusioned fatalism, passing into disordered lust, of t!eir age and pla*e) from w!ose eart!iness t!e as*eti* Semite religiosity per!aps *aug!t t!e tang of !umanity and real love t!at made t!e distin*tion of C!rist?s musi*, and fitted it to sweep a*ross t!e !earts of 4urope in a fas!ion w!i*! /udaism and .slam *ould not a*!ieve# And t!en C!ristianity !ad !ad t!e fortune of later ar*!ite*ts of genius) and in its passage t!roug! time and *lime !ad suffered sea-*!anges in*ompara ly greater t!an t!e un*!anging /ewry, from t!e a stra*tion of Ale3andrian oo&is!ness into 2atin prose, for t!e mainland of 4urope- and last and most terri le passing of all, w!en it e*ame (euton, wit! a formal synt!esis to suit our *!illy disputatious nort!# So remote was t!e ,res yterian *reed from t!e 8rt!odo3 fait! of its first or se*ond em odiment t!at, efore t!e war, we were a le to send missionaries to persuade t!ese softer 8riental C!ristians to our presentation of a logi*al God# .slam, too, !ad inevita ly *!anged from *ontinent to *ontinent# .t !ad avoided metap!ysi*s, e3*ept in t!e introspe*tive mysti*ism of .ranian devotees- ut in Afri*a it !ad ta&en on *olours of fetis!ism Bto e3press in a loose word t!e varied animalities of t!e dar& *ontinentC, and in .ndia, it !ad to stoop to t!e legality and literalism of its *onverts? minds# .n Ara ia, !owever, it !ad &ept a Semiti* *!ara*ter, or rat!er t!e Semiti* *!ara*ter !ad endured t!roug! t!e p!ase of .slam Bas t!roug! all t!e p!ases of t!e *reeds wit! w!i*! t!e town-dwellers *ontinually vested t!e simpli*ity of fait!C, e3pressing t!e monot!eism of open spa*es, t!e pass-t!roug!-infinity of pant!eism and its everyday usefulness of an all-pervading, !ouse!old God# %y *ontrast wit! t!is fi3ity, or wit! my reading of it, t!e old man of "umm loomed portentous in !is rief, single senten*e, and seemed to overturn my t!eories of t!e Ara nature# .n fear of a revelation, . put an end to my at!, and advan*ed to re*over my *lot!es# $e s!ut !is eyes wit! !is !ands and groaned !eavily# (enderly . persuaded !im to rise up and let me dress, and t!en to *ome wit! me along t!e *ra+y pat! w!i*! t!e *amels !ad made in t!eir *lim ing to and from t!e ot!er water-springs#

$e sat down y our *offee-pla*e, w!ere Mo!ammed lew up t!e fire w!ile . soug!t to ma&e !im utter do*trine# '!en t!e evening meal was ready we fed !im, so *!e*&ing for some minutes !is under*urrent of groans and ro&en words# 2ate at nig!t, !e rose painfully to !is feet and tottered deafly into t!e nig!t, ta&ing !is eliefs, if any, wit! !im# (!e $oweitat told me t!at lifelong !e !ad wandered among t!em moaning strange t!ings, not &nowing day or nig!t, not trou ling !imself for food or wor& or s!elter# $e was given ounty of t!em all, as an affli*ted man- ut never replied a word, or tal&ed aloud, e3*ept w!en a road y !imself or alone among t!e s!eep and goats#

&()PTE" L.I+
A dulla made progress wit! !is settlement# Gasim, no longer defiant, ut sul&y, would not give pu li* *ounsel- so a out a !undred men of t!e smaller *lans dared defy !im y promising to ride wit! us# 'e tal&ed it over wit! Gaal, and de*ided to try our fortune to t!e utmost of t!is power# %y longer delay we ris&ed ad!erents w!om we now !ad, wit! little !ope of getting ot!ers in t!e present temper of t!e tri es# .t was a tiny party, only a t!ird of w!at !ad een !oped# 8ur wea&ness would modify our plans regretta ly- also we la*&ed an assured leader# Gaal, as ever, s!owed !imself *apa le of eing *!ief, pres*ient and a*tive in all *on*rete preparations# $e was a man of great mettle, ut too *lose to Auda to suit t!e ot!ers) and !is s!arp tongue and t!e sneer !overing on !is lue, wet lips fanned distrust and made men relu*tant to o ey even !is goo d advi*e# 0e3t day t!e aggage *amels *ame from :eisal, twenty of t!em in *!arge of ten freedmen, and guarded y four of !is ody-slaves# (!ese were t!e trustiest attendants in t!e army, wit! a @uite parti*ular reading of t!e duties of personal servi*e# (!ey would !ave died to save t!eir master !urt, or !ave died wit! !im if !e were !urt# 'e atta*!ed two to ea*! sergeant, so t!at w!atever !appened to me t!eir safe return would e assured# (!e loads needed for t!e redu*ed raid were sorted out and all made ready for an early start# A**ordingly at dawn on Septem er t!e si3teent! we rode out from "umm# Aid, t!e lind S!erif, insisted on *oming, despite !is lost sig!t) saying !e *ould ride, if !e *ould not s!oot, and t!at if God prospered us !e would ta&e leave from :eisal in t!e flus! of t!e su**ess, and go !ome, not too sorry, to t!e lan& life w!i*! would e left# Gaal led !is twenty-five 0owasera, a *lan of Auda?s Ara s w!o *alled t!emselves my men, and were famous t!e desert over for t!eir saddle-*amels# My !ard riding tempted t!em to my *ompany# 8ld Motlog el Awar, owner of el /ed!a, t!e finest s!e-*amel in 0ort! Ara ia, rode !er in our van# 'e loo&ed at !er wit! proud or greedy eyes, a**ording to our relations!ip wit! !im# My G!a+ala was taller and more grand, wit! a faster trot, ut too old to e galloped# $owever s!e was t!e only ot!er animal in t!e party, or, indeed, in t!is desert, to e mat*!ed wit! t!e /ed!a, and my !onour was in*reased y !er dignity# (!e rest of our party strayed li&e a ro&en ne*&la*e# (!ere were groups of Guweida, Daraus!a, (ogatga, and Gele ani) and it was on t!is ride t!at t!e virtue of $ammad el (ugtagi was first roug!t to my mind# $alf an !our after we started t!ere rode out from a side-valley some s!ame-fa*ed men of t!e D!umaniye!, una le to endure ot!ers raiding w!ile t!ey idled wit! t!e women# 0o one group would ride or spea& wit! anot!er, and . passed a*& and fort! all day li&e a s!uttle, tal&ing first to one lowering s!ei&!, and t!en to anot!er, striving to draw t!em toget!er, so t!at efore a *ry to a*tion *ame t!ere mig!t e solidarity# As yet t!ey agreed only in not !earing any word from Gaal as to t!e order of our mar*!) t!oug! !e was admitted t!e most intelligent warrior, and t!e most e3perien*ed# :or my private part !e was t!e only one to e trusted furt!er t!an eyesig!t# 8f t!e ot!ers, it seemed to me t!at neit!er t!eir words nor t!eir *ounsels, per!aps not t!eir rifles, were sure# ,oor S!erif Aid?s uselessness, even as nominal leader, for*ed me to assume t!e dire*tion myself,

against ot! prin*iple and >udgement) sin*e t!e spe*ial arts of tri al raiding and t!e details of food!alts and pasturage, road-dire*tion, pay, disputes, division of spoils, feuds and mar*! order were mu*! outside t!e sylla us of t!e 83ford S*!ool of Modern $istory# (!e need to vamp t!ese matters &ept me too usied to see t!e *ountry, and prevented my worrying out !ow we must assault Mudowwara, and t!e est surprise uses of e3plosive# 'e put our midday !alt in a fertile pla*e, w!ere t!e late spring rain, falling on a sandy talus, !ad roug!t up a t!i*& tufting of silvery grass w!i*! our *amels loved# (!e weat!er was mild, perfe*t as an August in 4ngland, and we lingered in great *ontent, re*overed at last from t!e i*&ering appetites of t!e days efore t!e start, and from t!at slig!t rending of nerve inevita le w!en leaving even a temporary settlement# Man, in our *ir*umstan*es, too& root so soon# 2ate in t!e day we rode again, winding down!ill in a narrow valley etween moderate sandstone walls- till efore sunset we were out on anot!er flat of laid yellow mud, li&e t!at w!i*! !ad een so wonderful a prelude to "umm?s glory# %y its edge we *amped# My *are !ad orne fruit, for we settled in only t!ree parties, y rig!t fires of *ra*&ling, flaring tamaris&# At one supped my men) at t!e se*ond Gaal) at t!e t!ird t!e ot!er $oweitat) and late at nig!t, w!en all t!e *!iefs !ad een well ad>usted wit! ga+elle meat and !ot read, it e*ame possi le to ring t!em to my neutral fire, and dis*uss sensi ly our *ourse for t!e morrow# .t seemed t!at a out sunset we s!ould water at Mudowwara well, two or t!ree miles t!is side of t!e station, in a *overed valley# (!en, in t!e early nig!t, we mig!t go forward to e3amine t!e station and see if, in our wea&ness, we mig!t yet attempt some stro&e against it# . !eld strongly to t!is Bagainst t!e *ommon tasteC for it was y so mu*! t!e most *riti*al point of t!e line# (!e Ara s *ould not see it, sin*e t!eir minds did not !old a pi*ture of t!e long, lin&ed (ur&is! front wit! its ne*essitous demands# $owever, we !ad rea*!ed internal !armony, and s*attered *onfidently to sleep# .n t!e morning we delayed to eat again, !aving only si3 !ours of mar*! efore us) and t!en pus!ed a*ross t!e mud-flat to a plain of firm limestone rag, *arpeted wit! rown, weat!er- lunted flint# (!is was su**eeded y low !ills, wit! o**asional soft eds of sand, under t!e steeper slopes w!ere eddying winds !ad dropped t!eir dust# (!roug! t!ese we rode up s!allow valleys to a *rest) and t!en y li&e valleys down t!e far side, w!en*e we issued a ruptly, from dar&, tossed stone-!eaps into t!e sunsteeped wideness of a plain# A*ross it an o**asional low dune stret*!ed a drifting line# 'e !ad made our noon !alt at t!e first entering of t!e ro&en *ountry) and, rig!tly, in t!e late afternoon *ame to t!e well# .t was an open pool, a few yards s@uare, in a !ollow valley of large stonesla s and flint and sand# (!e stagnant water loo&ed uninviting# 8ver its fa*e lay a t!i*& mantle of green slime, from w!i*! swelled *urious ladder-islands of floating fatty pin&# (!e Ara s e3plained t!at t!e (ur&s !ad t!rown dead *amels into t!e pool to ma&e t!e water foul) ut t!at time !ad passed and t!e effe*t was grown faint# .t would !ave een fainter !ad t!e *riterion of t!eir effort een my taste# 1et it was all t!e drin& we s!ould get up !ere unless we too& Mudowwara, so we set to and filled our water-s&ins# 8ne of t!e $oweitat, w!ile !elping in t!is, slipped off t!e wet edge into t!e water# .ts green *arpet *losed oilily over !is !ead and !id !im for an instant- t!en !e *ame up, gasping vigorously, and s*ram led out amid our laug!ter) leaving e!ind !im a la*& !ole in t!e s*um from w!i*! a sten*! of old meat rose li&e a visi le pillar, and !ung a out us and !im and t!e valley, dis*on*ertingly# At dus&, Gaal and ., wit! t!e sergeants and ot!ers, *rept forward @uietly# .n !alf an !our we were at t!e last *rest, in a pla*e w!ere t!e (ur&s !ad dug tren*!es and stoned up an ela orate outpost of engrailed sangars w!i*! on t!is la*& new-moon nig!t of our raid were empty# .n front and elow lay t!e station, its doors and windows s!arply mar&ed y t!e yellow *oo&ing fires and lig!ts of t!e garrison# .t seemed *lose under our o servation) ut t!e Sto&es gun would *arry only t!ree !undred yards# A**ordingly we went nearer, !earing t!e enemy noises, and attentively afraid lest t!eir ar&ing dogs un*over us# Sergeant Sto&es made *asts out to left and rig!t, in sear*! of gun-positions, ut

found not!ing t!at was satisfa*tory# Meanw!ile, Gaal and . *rawled a*ross t!e last flat, till we *ould *ount t!e unlig!ted tents and !ear t!e men tal&ing# 8ne *ame out a few steps in our dire*tion, t!en !esitated# $e stru*& a mat*! to lig!t a *igarette, and t!e old lig!t flooded !is fa*e, so t!at we saw !im plainly, a young, !ollow-fa*ed si*&ly offi*er# $e s@uatted, usy for a moment, and returned to !is men, w!o !us!ed as !e passed# 'e moved a*& to our !ill and *onsulted in w!ispers# (!e station was very long, of stone uildings, so solid t!at t!ey mig!t e proof against our time-fused s!ell# (!e garrison seemed a out two !undred# 'e were one !undred and si3teen rifles and not a !appy family# Surprise was t!e only enefit we *ould e sure of# So, in t!e end, . voted t!at we leave it, unalarmed, for a future o**asion, w!i*! mig!t e soon# %ut, a*tually, one a**ident after anot!er saved Mudowwara) and it was not until August, 1916, t!at %u3ton?s Camel Corps at last measured to it t!e fate so long overdue#

&()PTE" L.+
Huietly we regained our *amels and slept# 0e3t morning we returned on our tra*&s to let a fold of t!e plain !ide us from t!e railway, and t!en mar*!ed sout! a*ross t!e sandy flat) seeing tra*&s of ga+elle, ory3 and ostri*!) wit!, in one spot, stale padmar&s of leopard# 'e were ma&ing for t!e low !ills ounding t!e far side, intending to low up a train) for Gaal said t!at w!ere t!ese tou*!ed t!e railway was su*! a *urve as we needed for mine-laying, and t!at t!e spurs *ommanding it would give us am us! and a field of fire for our ma*!ine-guns# So we turned east in t!e sout!ern ridges till wit!in !alf a mile of t!e line# (!ere t!e party !alted in a t!irty-foot valley, w!ile a few of us wal&ed down to t!e line, w!i*! ent a little eastward to avoid t!e point of !ig!er ground under our feet# (!e point ended in a flat ta le fifty feet a ove t!e tra*&, fa*ing nort! a*ross t!e valley # (!e metals *rossed t!e !ollow on a !ig! an&, pier*ed y a two-ar*!ed ridge for t!e passage of rainwater# (!is seemed an ideal spot to lay t!e *!arge# .t was our first try at ele*tri* mining and we !ad no idea w!at would !appen) ut it stood to our reason t!at t!e >o would e more sure wit! an ar*! under t!e e3plosive e*ause, w!atever t!e effe*t on t!e lo*omotive, t!e ridge would go, and t!e su**eeding *oa*!es e inevita ly derailed# (!e ledge would ma&e an admira le position for Sto&es# :or t!e automati*s, it was rat!er !ig!) ut t!e enfilade would e masterful w!et!er t!e train was going up or down t!e line# So we determined to put up wit! t!e disadvantages of plunging fire# .t was good to !ave my two %ritis! responsi ilities in one pla*e, safe from surprise and wit! an independent retreat into t!e roug!- for to-day Sto&es was in pain wit! dysentery# ,ro a ly t!e Mudowwara water !ad upset !is stoma*!# So few 4nglis!men seemed to !ave een endowed y t!eir up ringing wit! any organi* resistan*e to disease# %a*& wit! our *amels, we dumped t!e loads, and sent t!e animals to safe pasture near some under*ut ro*&s from w!i*! t!e Ara s s*raped salt# (!e freedmen *arried down t!e Sto&es gun wit! its s!ells) t!e 2ewis guns) and t!e gelatine wit! its insulated wire, magneto and tools to t!e *!osen pla*e# (!e sergeants set up t!eir toys on a terra*e, w!ile we went down to t!e ridge to dig a ed etween t!e ends of two steel sleepers, w!erein to !ide my fifty pounds of gelatine# 'e !ad stripped off t!e paper wrapping of t!e individual e3plosive plugs and &neaded t!em toget!er y !elp of t!e sun-!eat into a s!a&ing >elly in a sand- ag# (!e urying of it was not easy # (!e em an&ment was steep, and in t!e s!eltered po*&et etween it and t!e !ill-side was a wind-laid an& of sand# 0o one *rossed t!is ut myself, stepping *arefully) yet . left unavoida le great prints over its smoot!ness# (!e allast dug out from t!e tra*& . !ad to gat!er in my *loa& for *arriage in repeated >ourneys to t!e *ulvert, w!en*e it *ould e tipped naturally over t!e s!ingle ed of t!e water*ourse#

.t too& me nearly two !ours to dig in and *over t!e *!arge- t!en *ame t!e diffi*ult >o of unrolling t!e !eavy wires from t!e detonator to t!e !ills w!en*e we would fire t!e mine# (!e top sand was *rusted and !ad to e ro&en t!roug! in urying t!e wires# (!ey were stiff wires, w!i*! s*arred t!e windrippled surfa*e wit! long lines li&e t!e elly mar&s of preposterously narrow and !eavy sna&es# '!en pressed down in one pla*e t!ey rose into t!e air in anot!er# At last t!ey !ad to e weig!ted down wit! ro*&s w!i*!, in turn, !ad to e uried at t!e *ost of great distur an*e of t!e ground# Afterwards it was ne*essary, wit! a sand- ag, to stipple t!e mar&s into a wavy surfa*e) and, finally, wit! a ellows and long fanning sweeps of my *loa&, to simulate t!e smoot! laying of t!e wind# (!e w!ole >o too& five !ours to finis!) ut t!en it was well finis!ed- neit!er myself nor any of us *ould see w!ere t!e *!arge lay, or t!at dou le wires led out underground from it to t!e firing point two !undred yards off, e!ind t!e ridge mar&ed for our riflemen# (!e wires were >ust long enoug! to *ross from t!is ridge into a depression# (!ere we roug!t up t!e two ends and *onne*ted t!em wit! t!e ele*tri* e3ploder# .t was an ideal pla*e ot! for it and for t!e man w!o fired it, e3*ept t!at t!e ridge was not visi le t!en*e# $owever, t!is only meant t!at someone would !ave to press t!e !andle at a signal from a point fifty yards a!ead, *ommanding t!e ridge and t!e ends of t!e wires ali&e# Salem, :eisal?s est slave, as&ed for t!is tas& of !onour, and was yielded it y a**lamation# (!e end of t!e afternoon was spent in s!owing !im Bon t!e dis*onne*ted e3ploderC w!at to do, till !e was a*t-perfe*t and anged down t!e rat*!et pre*isely as . raised my !and wit! an imaginary engine on t!e ridge# 'e wal&ed a*& to *amp, leaving one man on wat*! y t!e line# 8ur aggage was deserted, and we stared a out in a pu++le for t!e rest, till we saw t!em suddenly sitting against t!e golden lig!t of sunset along a !ig! ridge# 'e yelled to t!em to lie down or *ome down, ut t!ey persisted up t!ere on t!eir per*! li&e a s*!ool of !ooded *rows, in full view of nort! and sout!# At last we ran up and t!rew t!em off t!e s&yline, too late# (!e (ur&s in a little !ill-post y $allat Ammar, four miles sout! of us, !ad seen t!em, and opened fire in t!eir alarm upon t!e long s!adows w!i*! t!e de*lining sun was pus!ing gradually up t!e slopes towards t!e post# %eduin were past masters in t!e art of using *ountry, ut in t!eir a iding *ontempt for t!e stupidity of t!e (ur&s t!ey would ta&e no *are to fig!t t!em# (!is ridge was visi le at on*e from Mudowwara and $allat Ammar, and t!ey !ad frig!tened ot! pla*es y t!eir sud den ominous e3pe*tant wat*!# $owever, t!e dar& *losed on us, and we &new we must sleep away t!e nig!t patiently in !ope of t!e morrow# ,er!aps t!e (ur&s would re*&on us gone if our pla*e loo&ed deserted in t!e morning# So we lit fires in a deep !ollow, a&ed read and were *omforta le# (!e *ommon tas&s !ad made us one party, and t!e !ill-top folly s!amed everyone into agreement t!at Gaal s!ould e our leader# Day ro&e @uietly, and for !ours we wat*!ed t!e empty railway wit! its pea*eful *amps# (!e *onstant *are of Gaal and of !is lame *ousin $oweimil, &ept us !idden, t!oug! wit! diffi*ulty, e*ause of t!e insatiate restlessness of t!e %eduin, w!o would never sit down for ten minutes, ut must fidget and do or say somet!ing# (!is defe*t made t!em very inferior to t!e stolid 4nglis! for t!e long, tedious strain of a waiting war# Also it partly a**ounted for t!eir un*ertain stoma*!s in defen*e# (o-day t!ey made us very angry# ,er!aps, after all, t!e (ur&s saw us, for at nine o?*lo*& some forty men *ame out of t!e tents on t!e !ill-top y $allat Ammar to t!e sout! and advan*ed in open order# .f we left t!em alone, t!ey would turn us off our mine in an !our) if we opposed t!em wit! our superior strengt! and drove t!em a*&, t!e railway would ta&e noti*e, and traffi* e !eld up# .t was a @uandary, w!i*! eventually we tried to solve y sending t!irty men to *!e*& t!e enemy patrol gradually) and, if possi le, to draw t!em lig!tly aside into t!e ro&en !ills# (!is mig!t !ide our main position and reassure t!em as to our insignifi*ant strengt! and purpose# :or some !ours it wor&ed as we !ad !oped) t!e firing grew desultory and distant# A permanent patrol *ame *onfidently up from t!e sout! and wal&ed past our !ill, over our mine and on towards

Mudowwara wit!out noti*ing us# (!ere were eig!t soldiers and a stout *orporal, w!o mopped !is row against t!e !eat, for it was now after eleven o?*lo*& and really warm# '!en !e !ad passed us y a mile or two t!e fatigue of t!e tramp e*ame too mu*! for !im# $e mar*!ed !is party into t!e s!ade of a long *ulvert, under w!ose ar*!es a *ool draug!t from t!e east was gently flowing, and t!ere in *omfort t!ey lay on t!e soft sand, dran& water from t!eir ottles, smo&ed, and at last slept# 'e presumed t!at t!is was t!e noon-day rest w!i*! every solid (ur& in t!e !ot summer of Ara ia too& as a matter of prin*iple, and t!at t!eir allowing t!emselves t!e pause s!owed t!at we were disproved or ignored# $owever, we were in error#

&()PTE" L.+I
0oon roug!t a fres! *are# (!roug! my powerful glasses we saw a !undred (ur&is! soldiers issue from Mudowwara Station and ma&e straig!t a*ross t!e sandy plain towards our pla*e# (!ey were *oming very slowly, and no dou t unwillingly, for sorrow at losing t!eir eloved midday sleep- ut at t!eir very worst mar*!ing and temper t!ey *ould !ardly ta&e more t!an two !ours efore t!ey rea*!ed us# 'e egan to pa*& up, preparatory to moving off, !aving de*ided to leave t!e mine and its leads in pla*e on *!an*e t!at t!e (ur&s mig!t not find t!em, and we e a le to return and ta&e advantage of all t!e *areful wor&# 'e sent a messenger to our *overing party on t!e sout!, t!at t!ey s!ould meet us fart!er up, near t!ose s*arred ro*&s w!i*! served as s*reen for our pasturing *amels# /ust as !e !ad gone, t!e wat*!man *ried out t!at smo&e in *louds was rising from $allat Ammar# Gaal and . rus!ed up!ill and saw y its s!ape and volume t!at indeed t!ere must e a train waiting in t!at station# As we were trying to see it over t!e !ill, suddenly it moved out in our dire*tion# 'e yelled to t!e Ara s to get into position as @ui*& as possi le, and t!ere *ame a wild s*ram le over sand and ro*&# Sto&es and 2ewis, eing ooted, *ould not win t!e ra*e) ut t!ey *ame well up, t!eir pains and dysentery forgotten# (!e men wit! rifles posted t!emselves in a long line e!ind t!e spur running from t!e guns past t!e e3ploder to t!e mout! of t!e valley# :rom it t!ey would fire dire*tly into t!e derailed *arriages at less t!an one !undred and fifty yards, w!ereas t!e ranges for t!e Sto&es and 2ewis guns were a out t!ree !undred yards# An Ara stood up on !ig! e!ind t!e guns and s!outed to us w!at t!e train was doing--a ne*essary pre*aution, for if it *arried troops and detrained t!em e!ind our ridge we s!ould !ave to fa*e a out li&e a flas! and retire fig!ting up t!e valley for our lives# :ortunately it !eld on at all t!e speed t!e two lo*omotives *ould ma&e on wood fuel# .t drew near w!ere we !ad een reported, and opened random fire into t!e desert# . *ould !ear t!e ra*&et *oming, as . sat on my !illo*& y t!e ridge to give t!e signal to Salem, w!o dan*ed round t!e e3ploder on !is &nees, *rying wit! e3*itement, and *alling urgently on God to ma&e !im fruitful# (!e (ur&is! fire sounded !eavy, and . wondered wit! !ow many men we were going to !ave affair, and if t!e mine would e advantage enoug! for our eig!ty fellows to e@ual t!em# .t would !ave een etter if t!e first ele*tri*al e3periment !ad een simpler# $owever, at t!at moment t!e engines, loo&ing very ig, ro*&ed wit! s*reaming w!istles into view around t!e end# %e!ind t!em followed ten o3-waggons, *rowded wit! rifle-mu++les at t!e windows and doors) and in little sand- ag nests on t!e roofs (ur&s pre*ariously !eld on, to s!oot at us# . !ad not t!oug!t of two engines, and on t!e moment de*ided to fire t!e *!arge under t!e se*ond, so t!at !owever little t!e mine?s effe*t, t!e unin>ured engine s!ould not e a le to un*ouple and drag t!e *arriages away# A**ordingly, w!en t!e front ?driver? of t!e se*ond engine was on t!e ridge, . raised my !and to Salem# (!ere followed a terrifi* roar, and t!e line vanis!ed from sig!t e!ind a spouting *olumn of la*& dust and smo&e a !undred feet !ig! and wide# 8ut of t!e dar&ness *ame s!attering *ras!es and long, loud metalli* *langings of ripped steel, wit! many lumps of iron and plate) w!ile one entire w!eel of a lo*omotive w!irled up suddenly la*& out of t!e *loud against t!e s&y, and sailed

musi*ally over our !eads to fall slowly and !eavily into t!e desert e!ind# 43*ept for t!e flig!t of t!ese, t!ere su**eeded a deat!ly silen*e, wit! no *ry of men or rifle-s!ot, as t!e now grey mist of t!e e3plosion drifted from t!e line towards us, and over our ridge until it was lost in t!e !ills# .n t!e lull, . ran sout!ward to >oin t!e sergeants# Salem pi*&ed up !is rifle and *!arged out into t!e mur&# %efore . !ad *lim ed to t!e guns t!e !ollow was alive wit! s!ots, and wit! t!e rown figures of t!e %eduin leaping forward to grips wit! t!e enemy# . loo&ed round to see w!at was !appening so @ui*&ly, and saw t!e train stationary and dismem ered along t!e tra*&, wit! its waggon sides >umping under t!e ullets w!i*! riddled t!em, w!ile (ur&s were falling out from t!e far doors to gain t!e s!elter of t!e railway em an&ment# As . wat*!ed, our ma*!ine-guns *!attered out over my !ead, and t!e long rows of (ur&s on t!e *arriage roofs rolled over, and were swept off t!e top li&e ales of *otton efore t!e furious s!ower of ullets w!i*! stormed along t!e roofs and splas!ed *louds of yellow *!ips from t!e plan&ing# (!e dominant position of t!e guns !ad een an advantage to us so far# '!en . rea*!ed Sto&es and 2ewis t!e engagement !ad ta&en anot!er turn# (!e remaining (ur&s !ad got e!ind t!e an&, !ere a out eleven feet !ig!, and from *over of t!e w!eels were firing point- lan& at t!e %eduin twenty yards away a*ross t!e sand-filled dip# (!e enemy in t!e *res*ent of t!e *urving line were se*ure from t!e ma*!ine-guns) ut Sto&es slipped in !is first s!ell, and after a few se*onds t!ere *ame a *ras! as it urst eyond t!e train in t!e desert# $e tou*!ed t!e elevating s*rew, and !is se*ond s!ot fell >ust y t!e tru*&s in t!e deep !ollow elow t!e ridge w!ere t!e (ur&s were ta&ing refuge# .t made a s!am les of t!e pla*e# (!e survivors of t!e group ro&e out in a pani* a*ross t!e desert, t!rowing away t!eir rifles and e@uipment as t!ey ran# (!is was t!e opportunity of t!e 2ewis gunners# (!e sergeant grimly traversed wit! drum after drum, till t!e open sand was littered wit! odies# Mus!agraf, t!e S!erari oy e!ind t!e se*ond gun, saw t!e attle over, t!rew aside !is weapon wit! a yell, and das!ed down at speed wit! !is rifle to >oin t!e ot!ers w!o were eginning, li&e wild easts, to tear open t!e *arriages and fall to plunder# .t !ad ta&en nearly ten minutes# . loo&ed up-line t!roug! my glasses and saw t!e Mudowwara patrol rea&ing a*& un*ertainly towards t!e railway to meet t!e train-fugitives running t!eir fastest nort!ward# . loo&ed sout!, to see our t!irty men *antering t!eir *amels ne*& and ne*& in our dire*tion to s!are t!e spoils# (!e (ur&s t!ere, seeing t!em go, egan to move after t!em wit! infinite pre*aution, firing volleys# 4vidently we !ad a !alf-!our respite, and t!en a dou le t!reat against us# . ran down to t!e ruins to see w!at t!e mine !ad done# (!e ridge was gone) and into its gap was fallen t!e front waggon, w!i*! !ad een filled wit! si*&# (!e smas! !ad &illed all ut t!ree or four and !ad rolled dead and dying into a leeding !eap against t!e splintered end# 8ne of t!ose yet alive deliriously *ried out t!e word typ!us# So . wedged s!ut t!e door, and left t!em t!ere, alone# Su**eeding waggons were derailed and smas!ed- some !ad frames irrepara ly u*&led# (!e se*ond engine was a lan*!ed pile of smo&ing iron# .ts driving w!eels !ad een lown upward, ta&ing away t!e side of t!e fire- o3# Ca and tender were twisted into strips, among t!e piled stones of t!e ridge a utment# .t would never run again# (!e front engine !ad got off etter- t!oug! !eavily derailed and lying !alf-over, wit! t!e *a urst, yet its steam was at pressure, and driving-gear inta*t# 8ur greatest o >e*t was to destroy lo*omotives, and . !ad &ept in my arms a o3 of gun-*otton wit! fuse and detonator ready fi3ed, to ma&e sure su*! a *ase# . now put t!em in position on t!e outside *ylinder# 8n t!e oiler would !ave een etter, ut t!e si++ling steam made me fear a general e3plosion w!i*! would sweep a*ross my men Bswarming li&e ants over t!e ootyC wit! a last of >agged fragments# 1et t!ey would not finis! t!eir looting efore t!e (ur&s *ame# So . lit t!e fuse, and in t!e !alf-minute of its urning drove t!e plunderers a little a*&, wit! diffi*ulty# (!en t!e *!arge urst, lowing t!e *ylinder to smit!ers, and t!e a3le too# At t!e moment . was distressed wit! un*ertainty w!et!er t!e damage were enoug!) ut t!e (ur&s, later, found t!e engine eyond use and ro&e it up#

(!e valley was a weird sig!t# (!e Ara s, gone raving mad, were rus!ing a out at top speed are!eaded and !alf-na&ed, s*reaming, s!ooting into t!e air, *lawing one anot!er nail and fist, w!ile t!ey urst open tru*&s and staggered a*& and forward wit! immense ales, w!i*! t!ey ripped y t!e rail-side, and tossed t!roug!, smas!ing w!at t!ey did not want# (!e train !ad een pa*&ed wit! refugees and si*& men, volunteers for oat-servi*e on t!e 4up!rates, and families of (ur&is! offi*ers returning to Damas*us# (!ere were s*ores of *arpets spread a out) do+ens of mattresses and flowered @uilts) lan&ets in !eaps, *lot!es for men and women in full variety) *lo*&s, *oo&ing-pots, food, ornaments and weapons# (o one side stood t!irty or forty !ysteri*al women, unveiled, tearing t!eir *lot!es and !air) s!rie&ing t!emselves distra*ted# (!e Ara s wit!out regard to t!em went on wre*&ing t!e !ouse!old goods) looting t!eir a solute fill# Camels !ad e*ome *ommon property# 4a*! man franti*ally loaded t!e nearest wit! w!at it *ould *arry and s!ooed it westward into t!e void, w!ile !e turned to !is ne3t fan*y# Seeing me tolera ly unemployed, t!e women rus!ed, and *aug!t at me wit! !owls for mer*y# . assured t!em t!at all was going well- ut t!ey would not get away till some !us ands delivered me# (!ese &no*&ed t!eir wives off and sei+ed my feet in a very agony of terror of instant deat!# A (ur& so ro&en down was a nasty spe*ta*le- . &i*&ed t!em off as well as . *ould wit! are feet, and finally ro&e free# 0e3t a group of Austrians, offi*ers and non-*ommissioned offi*ers, appealed to me @uietly in (ur&is! for @uarter# . replied wit! my !alting German) w!ereupon one, in 4nglis!, egged a do*tor for !is wounds# 'e !ad none- not t!at it mattered, for !e was mortally !urt and dying# . told t!em t!e (ur&s would return in an !our and *are for t!em# %ut !e was dead efore t!at, as were most of t!e ot!ers Binstru*tors in t!e new S&oda mountain !owit+ers supplied to (ur&ey for t!e $e>a+ warC, e*ause some dispute ro&e out etween t!em and my own odyguard, and one of t!em fired a pistol s!ot at young "a!ail# My infuriated men *ut t!em down, all ut two or t!ree, efore . *ould return to interfere# So far as *ould e seen in t!e e3*itement, our side !ad suffered no loss# Among t!e ninety military prisoners were five 4gyptian soldiers, in t!eir under*lot!es# (!ey &new me, and e3plained t!at in a nig!t raid of Davenport?s, near 'adi Ais, t!ey !ad een *ut off y t!e (ur&s and *aptured# (!ey told me somet!ing of Davenport?s wor&- of !is *ontinual pegging away in A dulla?s se*tor, w!i*! was &ept alive y !im for mont! after mont!, wit!out any of t!e en*ouragement lent to us y su**ess and lo*al ent!usiasm# $is est !elpers were su*! stolid infantrymen as t!ese, w!om . made lead t!e prisoners away to our appointed rallying pla*e at t!e salt ro*&s#

&()PTE" L.+II
2ewis and Sto&es !ad *ome down to !elp me# . was a little an3ious a out t!em) for t!e Ara s, !aving lost t!eir wits, were as ready to assault friend as foe# (!ree times . !ad !ad to defend myself w!en t!ey pretended not to &now me and snat*!ed at my t!ings# $owever, t!e sergeants? war-stained &!a&i presented few attra*tions# 2ewis went out east of t!e railway to *ount t!e t!irty men !e !ad slain) and, in*identally, to find (ur&is! gold and trop!ies in t!eir !aversa*&s# Sto&es strolled t!roug! t!e wre*&ed ridge, saw t!ere t!e odies of twenty (ur&s torn to pie*es y !is se*ond s!e ll, and retired !urriedly # A!med *ame up to me wit! !is arms full of ooty and s!outed Bno Ara *ould spea& normally in t!e t!rill of vi*toryC t!at an old woman in t!e last waggon ut one wis!ed to see me# . sent !im at on*e, empty-!anded, for my *amel and some aggage *amels to remove t!e guns) for t!e enemy?s fire was now plainly audi le, and t!e Ara s, sated wit! spoils were es*aping one y one towards t!e !ills, driving tottering *amels efore t!em into safety# .t was ad ta*ti*s to leave t!e guns until t!e end- ut t!e *onfusion of a first, overw!elmingly su**essful, e3periment !ad dulled our >udgement# .n t!e end of t!e waggon sat an an*ient and very tremulous Ara dame, w!o as&ed me w!at it was all a out# . e3plained# S!e said t!at t!oug! an old friend and !ostess of :eisal, s!e was too infirm to

travel and must wait !er deat! t!ere# . replied t!at s!e would not e !armed# (!e (ur&s were almost arrived and would re*over w!at remained of t!e train# S!e a**epted t!is, and egged me to find !er old negress, to ring !er water# (!e slave woman filled a *up from t!e spouting tender of t!e first engine Bdeli*ious water, from w!i*! 2ewis was sla&ing !is t!irstC, and t!en . led !er to !er grateful mistress# Mont!s after t!ere *ame to me se*retly from Damas*us a letter and a pleasant little %alu*!i *arpet from t!e lady Ayes!a, daug!ter of /ellal el 2ei, of Medina, in memory of an odd meeting# A!med never roug!t t!e *amels# My men, possessed y greed, !ad dispersed over t!e land wit! t!e %eduins# (!e sergeants and . were alone y t!e wre*&, w!i*! !ad a strange silen*e now# 'e egan to fear t!at we must a andon t!e guns and run for it, ut >ust t!en saw two *amels das!ing a*&# Gaal and $oweimil !ad missed me and !ad returned in sear*! # 'e were rolling up t!e insulated *a le, our only pie*e# Gaal dropped from !is *amel and would !ave me mount and ride) ut, instead, we loaded it wit! t!e wire and t!e e3ploder# Gaal found time to laug! at our @uaint ooty, after all t!e gold and silver in t!e train# $oweimil was dead lame from an old wound in t!e &nee and *ould not wal&, ut we made !im *ou*! !is *amel, and !oisted t!e 2ewis guns, tied utt to utt li&e s*issors, e!ind !is saddle# (!ere remained t!e tren*! mortars) ut Sto&es reappeared, uns&ilfully leading y t!e nose a aggage *amel !e !ad found straying# 'e pa*&ed t!e mortars in !aste) put Sto&es Bw!o was still wea& wit! !is dysenteryC on Gaal?s saddle, wit! t!e 2ewis guns, and sent off t!e t!ree *amels in *!arge of $oweimil, at t!eir est pa*e# Meanw!ile, 2ewis and Gaal, in a s!eltered and invisi le !ollow e!ind t!e old gun-position, made a fire of *artridge o3es, petrol and waste, an&ed round it t!e 2ewis drums and t!e spare small-arms ammunition) and, gingerly, on t!e top, laid some loose Sto&es? s!ells# (!en we ran# As t!e flames rea*!ed t!e *ordite and ammonal t!ere was a *olossal and *ontinuing noise# (!e t!ousands of *artridges e3ploded in series li&e massed ma*!ine-guns, and t!e s!ells roared off in t!i*& *olumns of dust and smo&e# (!e outflan&ing (ur&s, impressed y t!e tremendous defen*e, felt t!at we were in strengt! and strongly posted# (!ey !alted t!eir rus!, too& *over, and egan *arefully to surround our position and re*onnoitre it a**ording to rule, w!ile we sped panting into *on*ealment among t!e ridges# .t seemed a !appy ending to t!e affair, and we were glad to get off wit! no more loss t!an my *amels and aggage) t!oug! t!is in*luded t!e sergeants? *!eris!ed &its# $owever, t!ere was food at "umm, and Gaal t!oug!t per!aps we s!ould find our property wit! t!e ot!ers, w!o were waiting a!ead# 'e did# My men were loaded wit! ooty, and !ad wit! t!em all our *amels w!ose saddles were eing suddenly delivered of spoils to loo& ready for our mounting# Softly . e3plained w!at . t!oug!t of t!e two men w!o !ad een ordered to ring up t!e *amels w!en t!e firing *eased# (!ey pleaded t!at t!e e3plosion !ad s*attered everyone in frig!t, and afterwards t!e Ara s !ad appropriated ea*! man any animal !e saw# (!is was pro a ly true) ut my men also were a le- odied and mig!t !ave !elped t!emselves# 'e as&ed if anyone were !urt, and a voi*e said t!at t!e S!unt?s oy--a very das!ing fellow--!ad een &illed in t!e first rus! forward at t!e train# (!is rus! was a mista&e, made wit!out instru*tions, as t!e 2ewis and Sto&es guns were sure to end t!e usiness if t!e mine wor&ed properly # So . felt t!at !is loss was not dire*tly my reproa*!# (!ree men !ad een slig!tly wounded# (!en one of :eisal?s slaves vou*!safed t!at Salem was missing# 'e *alled everyone toget!er and @uestioned t!em# At last an Ara said t!at !e !ad seen !im lying !it, >ust eyond t!e engine# (!is reminded 2ewis, w!o, ignorant t!at !e was one of us, !ad seen a negro on t!e ground t!ere, adly !urt# . !ad not een told and was angry, for !alf t!e $oweitat must !ave &nown of it, and t!at Salem was in my *!arge# %y t!eir default now, for t!e se*ond time, . !ad left a friend e!ind# . as&ed for volunteers to *ome a*& and find !im# After a little Gaal agreed, and t!en twelve of t!e 0owasera# 'e trotted fast a*ross t!e plain towards t!e line# As we topped t!e last ridge ut one we saw t!e train-wre*& wit! (ur&s swarming over it# (!ere must !ave een one !undred and fifty of t!em, and our attempt was !opeless# Salem would !ave een dead, for t!e (ur&s did not ta&e Ara

prisoners# .ndeed, t!ey used to &ill t!em !orri ly) so, in mer*y, we were finis!ing t!ose of our adly wounded w!o would !ave to e left !elpless on a andoned ground# 'e must give up Salem) ut, to ma&e some profit out of our return, . suggested to Gaal t!at we slip up-valley and re*over t!e sergeants? &its# $e was willing, and we rode till t!e (ur&s? s!ooting drove us to *over e!ind a an&# 8ur *amp !ad een in t!e ne3t !ollow, a*ross a !undred yards of flat# So, wat*!ing t!e time, one or two of t!e @ui*&er yout!s nipped a*ross to drag a*& t!e saddle ags# (!e (ur&s were distant, and (ur&is! long-range fire was always ad) ut for our t!ird trip t!ey got up a ma*!ine-gun, and t!e dusty splas!es of t!e ullets on t!e dar& flints let t!em group well a out us# . sent t!e running oys away, pi*&ed out w!at was lig!t and est of t!e remaining aggage, and re>oined t!e party# 'e pounded down t!e slope and a*ross# .n t!e open t!e (ur&s *ould *learly *ount our fewness# (!ey grew old and ran forward on ot! flan&s to *ut us off# Gaal t!rew !imself from !is *amel, *lim ed wit! five men to t!e pea& of t!e ridge we !ad >ust *rossed, and fired a*& at t!em# $e was a marvellous s!ot, w!om . !ad seen to ring down a running ga+elle from t!e saddle wit! !is se*ond ullet at t!ree !undred yards, and !is fire *!e*&ed t!em# $e *alled to us laden men to !urry a*ross t!e ne3t !ollow and !old it w!ile !e fell a*& on us, and in t!is fas!ion we retired from ridge to ridge, putting up a good delay a*tion and !itting t!irteen or fourteen (ur&s at a *ost of four *amels wounded# At last, w!en we were only two ridges from our supports, and were feeling sure t!at we s!ould do it easily, a solitary rider appeared, *oming up# .t was 2ewis, wit! a 2ewis gun !eld effi*iently a*ross !is t!ig!s# $e !ad !eard t!e rapid fire, and t!oug!t to see if we needed !elp# $e *!anged our strengt! very mu*!, and my mind, for . was angry wit! t!e (ur&s, w!o !ad got Salem and !ad *!ased us reat!less so far in dust and !eat and streaming sweat# (!erefore we too& pla*e to give our pursuers a &no*&) ut eit!er t!ey suspe*ted our silen*e, or t!ey feared t!e distan*e t!ey !ad *ome) anyway, we saw no more of t!em# After a few minutes we e*ame *ool, and wise-!eaded enoug! to ride off after t!e ot!ers# (!ey !ad mar*!ed very !eavy-laden# 8f our ninety prisoners, ten were friendly Medina women ele*ting to go to Me**a y way of :eisal# (!ere !ad een twenty-two riderless *amels# (!e women !ad *lim ed on to five pa*&-saddles, and t!e wounded were in pairs on t!e residue# .t was late in t!e afternoon# 'e were e3!austed, t!e prisoners !ad drun& all our water# 'e must re-fill from t!e old well at Mudowwara t!at nig!t to sustain ourselves so far as "umm# As t!e well was *lose to t!e station, it was !ig!ly desira le t!at we get to it and away, lest t!e (ur&s divine our *ourse and find us t!ere defen*eless# 'e ro&e up into little parties and struggled nort!# <i*tory always undid an Ara for*e, so we were no longer a raiding party, ut a stum ling aggage *aravan, loaded to rea&ing point wit! enoug! !ouse!old goods to ma&e ri*! an Ara tri e for years# My sergeants as&ed me for a sword ea*!, as souvenir of t!eir first private attle# As . went down t!e *olumn to loo& out somet!ing, suddenly . met :eisal?s freedmen) and to my astonis!ment on t!e *rupper e!ind one of t!em, strapped to !im, soa&ed wit! lood, un*ons*ious, was t!e missing Salem# . trotted up to :er!an and as&ed w!erever !e !ad found !im# $e told me t!at w!en t!e Sto&es gun fired its first s!ell, Salem rus!ed past t!e lo*omotive, and one of t!e (ur&s s!ot !im in t!e a*&# (!e ullet !ad *ome out near !is spine, wit!out, in t!eir >udgement, !urting !im mortally# After t!e train was ta&en, t!e $oweitat !ad stripped !im of *loa&, dagger, rifle and !ead-gear# Mi> il, one of t!e freedmen, !ad found !im, lifted him straig!t to !is *amel, and tre&&ed off !omeward wit!out telling us# :er!an, overta&ing !im on t!e road, !ad relieved !im of Salem) w!o, w!en !e re*overed, as later !e did, perfe*tly, ore me always a little grudge for !aving left !im e!ind, w!en !e was of my *ompany and wounded# . !ad failed in staun*!ness# My !a it of !iding e!ind a S!erif was to avoid measuring myself against t!e pitiless Ara standard, wit! its no-mer*y for foreigners w!o wore its *lot!es, and aped its manners# 0ot often was . *aug!t wit! so poor a s!ield as lind S!erif Aid# 'e rea*!ed t!e well in t!ree !ours and watered wit!out mis!ap# Afterwards we moved off anot!er ten

miles or so, eyond fear of pursuit# (!ere we lay down and slept, and in t!e morning found ourselves !appily tired# Sto&es !ad !ad !is dysentery !eavy upon !im t!e nig!t efore, ut sleep and t!e ending of an3iety made !im well# $e and . and 2ewis, t!e only un urdened ones, went on in front a*ross one !uge mud-flat after anot!er till >ust efore sunset we were at t!e ottom of 'adi "umm# (!is new route was important for our armoured *ars, e*ause its twenty miles of !ard mud mig!t ena le t!em to rea*! Mudowwara easily# .f so, we s!ould e a le to !old up t!e *ir*ulation of trains w!en we pleased# (!in&ing of t!is, we w!eeled into t!e avenue of "umm, still gorgeous in sunset *olour) t!e *liffs as red as t!e *louds in t!e west, li&e t!em in s*ale and in t!e level ar t!ey raised against t!e s&y# Again we felt !ow "umm in!i ited e3*itement y its serene eauty# Su*! w!elming greatness dwarfed us, stripped off t!e *loa& of laug!ter in w!i*! we !ad ridden over t!e >o*und flats# 0ig!t *ame down, and t!e valley e*ame a mind-lands*ape# (!e invisi le *liffs oded as presen*es) imagination tried to pie*e out t!e plan of t!eir attlements y tra*ing t!e dar& pattern t!ey *ut in t!e *anopy of stars# (!e la*&ness in t!e dept! was very real--it was a nig!t to despair of movement# 'e felt only our *amels? la our, as !our after !our monotonously and smoot!ly t!ey s!ouldered t!eir puny way along t!e unfen*ed level, wit! t!e wall in front no nearer and t!e wall e!ind no furt!er t!an at first# A out nine at nig!t we were efore t!e pit in w!i*! lay t!e water and our old *amp# 'e &new its pla*e e*ause t!e deep dar&ness t!ere grew !umidly dar&er# 'e turned our *amels to t!e rig!t and advan*ed towards t!e ro*&, w!i*! reared its *rested domes so !ig! over us t!at t!e ropes of our !ead*lot!s slipped a*& round our ne*&s as we stared up# Surely if we stret*!ed out even our *amel-sti*&s in front of us we s!ould tou*! t!e fa*ing walls- yet for many pa*es more we *rept in under t!eir !orns# At last we were in t!e tall us!es- t!en we s!outed# An Ara s!outed a*&# (!e e*!oes of my voi*e rolling down from t!e *liff met !is rising *ry, and t!e sounds wrapped t!emselves toget!er and wrestled among t!e *rags# A flame fli*&ered palely on t!e left, and we found Musa our wat*!man t!ere# $e lit a fire of powerfully s*ented wood, and y its lig!t we ro&e open ully- eef and fed ravenously) gulping down, t!roug! our food, owl after owl of t!e deli*ious water, i*e-*old, and !eady after t!e foul drin& of Mudo wwara) w!i*!, for days, !ad seared our t!roats# 'e slept t!roug! t!e *oming of t!e rest# (wo days later we were at A&a a) entering in glory, laden wit! pre*ious t!ings, and oasting t!at t!e trains were at our mer*y# :rom A&a a t!e two sergeants too& !urried s!ip to 4gypt# Cairo !ad remem ered t!em and gone peevis! e*ause of t!eir non-return# $owever, t!ey *ould pay t!e penalty of t!is *!eerfully# (!ey !ad won a attle single-!anded) !ad !ad dysentery) lived on *amel-mil&) and learned to ride a *amel fifty miles a day wit!out pain# Also Allen y gave t!em a medal ea*!#

&()PTE" L.+III
Days passed, tal&ing politi*s, organi+ation and strategy wit! :eisal, w!ile preparations for a new operation went forward# 8ur lu*& !ad @ui*&ened t!e *amp) and t!e mining of trains promised to e*ome popular, if we were a le to train in t!e te*!ni@ue of t!e wor& enoug! men for several parties# Captain ,isani was first volunteer# $e was t!e e3perien*ed *ommander of t!e :ren*! at A&a a, an a*tive soldier w!o urned for distin*tion--and distin*tions# :eisal found me t!ree young Damas*enes of family, w!o were am itious to lead tri al raids# 'e went to "umm and announ*ed t!at t!is raid was spe*ially for Gasim?s *lan# Su*! *oals of fire s*or*!ed t!em) ut greed would not let t!em refuse# 4veryone for days around flo*&ed to >oin# Most were denied- nevert!eless, we started out wit! one !undred and fifty men and a !uge train of empty pa*&-*amels for t!e spoils# :or variety we determined to wor& y Maan# So we rode up to %atra, *lim ing out of !eat into *old, out of Ara ia into Syria, from tamaris& to wormwood# As we topped t!e pass and saw t!e lood-red stain on t!e !ills a ove t!e lee*!-infested wells, t!ere met us A first reat! of t!e nort!ern desert) t!at air too fine to des*ri e, w!i*! told of perfe*t loneliness, dried grass, and t!e sun on urning flints#

(!e guides said t!at ;ilometre IL5 would e good for mining- ut we found it eset y lo*&!ouses, and !ad to *reep s!yly away# 'e mar*!ed down t!e line till it *rossed a valley on a !ig! an&, pier*ed y ridges on ea*! side and in t!e middle# (!ere, after midnig!t, we laid an automati* mine of a new and very powerful luddite type# (!e urying too& !ours, and dawn *aug!t us as we wor&ed# (!ere was no per*epti le lig!tening, and w!en we stared round to &now w!ere t!e dar& was yielding, we *ould see no spe*ial onset of t!e day# 2ong minutes afterwards t!e sun dis*losed itself, !ig! a ove t!e eart!?s rim, over a vignetted an& of edgeless mist# 'e retired a t!ousand yards up t!e valley?s s*ru y ed to am us! for t!e intolera le day# As t!e !ours passed t!e sun in*reased, and s!one so *losely upon our radiant tren*! t!at we felt *rowded y its rays# (!e men were a mad lot, s!arpened to distra*tion y !ope of su**ess# (!ey would listen to no word ut mine, and roug!t me t!eir trou les for >udgement# .n t!e si3 days? raid t!ere *ame to a !ead, and were settled, twelve *ases of assault wit! weapons, four *amel-liftings, one marriage, two t!efts, a divor*e, fourteen feuds, two evil eyes, and a ewit*!ment# (!ese de*isions were arrived at despite my imperfe*t &nowledge of Ara i*# (!e fraudulen*e of my usiness stung me# $ere were more fruits, itter fruits, of my de*ision, in front of A&a a, to e*ome a prin*ipal of t!e "evolt# . was raising t!e Ara s on false preten*es, and e3er*ising a false aut!ority over my dupes, on little more eviden*e t!an t!eir fa*es, as visi le to my eyes wea&ly watering and stinging after a year?s e3posure to t!e t!ro , t!ro of sunlig!t# 'e waited t!at day, and nig!t# At sunset a s*orpion s*uttled out of t!e us! y w!i*! . !ad lain down to ma&e note of t!e day?s weariness, and fastening on my left !and stru*& me, it seemed repeatedly# (!e pain of my swollen arm &ept me awa&e until t!e se*ond dawn- to t!e relief of my over urdened mind, for its ody e*ame *lamant enoug! to interrupt my self-@uestioning w!en t!e fire of some su*! surfa*e in>ury swept t!e sluggis! nerves# 1et pain of t!is @uality never endured long enoug! really to *ure mind-si*&ness# After a nig!t it would give way to t!at unattra*tive, and not !onoura le, internal a*!e w!i*! in itself provo&ed t!oug!t and left its vi*tim yet wea&er to endure# .n su*! *onditions t!e war seemed as great a folly as my s!am leaders!ip a *rime) and, sending for our s!ei&!s, . was a out to resign myself and my pretensions into t!eir pu++led !ands, w!en t!e fugleman announ*ed a train# .t *ame down from Maan, a water-train, and passed over t!e mine wit!out a**ident# (!e Ara s t!an&ed me, for a ooty of water was not t!eir dream# (!e mine-a*tion !ad failed) so at noon, wit! my pupils, . went down to lay an ele*tri* mine over t!e lyddite, t!at t!e detonation of one mig!t fire t!e ot!er# :or *on*ealment we trusted to t!e mirage and midday drowsiness of t!e (ur&s) >ustifia ly, for t!ere was no alarm in t!e !our we spent urying t!e *!arge# :rom t!e sout!ern ridge we roug!t t!e ele*tri* leads to t!e middle ridge, w!ose ar*! would *on*eal t!e e3ploder from a train over!ead# (!e 2ewis guns we put under t!e nort!ern ridge, to ra&e t!e far side of t!e train w!en t!e mine went off# (!e Ara s would line t!e us!es of a *ross-*!annel of t!e valley t!ree !undred yards our side of t!e railway# 'e waited afterwards t!roug!out a day of sunlig!t and flies# 4nemy patrols mar*!ed a*tively along t!e line morning, afternoon and evening# 8n t!e se*ond day, a out eig!t in t!e morning, a pillar of smo&e left Maan# At t!e same time t!e first patrol approa*!ed# (!ey were only !alf a do+en men, ut t!eir warning would deter t!e train) and we wat*!ed strainingly, in wonder w!i*! would win t!e ra*e# (!e train was very slow, and sometimes t!e patrol !alted# 'e *al*ulated t!ey mig!t e two or t!ree !undred yards s!ort of us w!en t!e train *ame# So we ordered every ody to stations# 'it! twelve loaded waggons t!e engine panted on t!e up grade# $owever, it !eld on steadily# . sat y a us! in t!e stream- ed, a !undred yards from t!e mine) in view of it and of t!e e3ploder-party and of t!e ma*!ine-guns# '!en :ai+ and %edri !eard t!e engine over t!eir ar*!, t!ey dan*ed a war-dan*e round t!eir little ele*tri* o3# (!e Ara s in t!e dit*! were !issing softly to me t!at it was time to fire- ut not until t!e engine was e3a*tly over t!e ar*! did . >ump up and wave my *loa&# :ai+ instantly pressed !is !andle, and t!e great noise and dust and la*&ness urst

up, as at Mudow-wara a wee& efore, and enveloped me w!ere . sat, w!ile t!e green-yellow si*&ly smo&e of lyddite !ung sluggis!ly a out t!e wre*&# (!e 2ewis guns rattled out suddenly, t!ree or four s!ort ursts- t!ere was a yell from t!e Ara s, and, !eaded y ,isani sounding t!e women?s vi rant attle-*ry, t!ey rus!ed in a wild torrent for t!e train# A (ur& appeared upon t!e uffers of t!e fourt! tru*& from t!e end, loosed t!e *ouplings, and let t!e tail of t!e train slip a*& down t!e gradient# . made a languid effort to get e!ind t!e w!eel wit! a stone, ut s*ar*ely *ared enoug! to do it well# .t seemed fair and witty t!at t!is mu*! of t!e ooty s!ould es*ape# A (ur&is! *olonel from t!e window fired at me wit! a Mauser pistol, *utting t!e fles! of my !ip# . laug!ed at !is too-great energy, w!i*! t!oug!t, li&e a regular offi*er, to promote t!e war y t!e &illing of an individual# 8ur mine !ad ta&en out t!e near ar*! of t!e ridge# 8f t!e lo*omotive, t!e fire- o3 was torn open, and many tu es urst# (!e *a was *leared out, a *ylinder gone, t!e frame u*&led, two driving w!eels and t!eir >ournals s!attered# (!e tender and first waggon !ad teles*oped# A out twenty (ur&s were dead, and ot!ers prisoners, in*luding four offi*ers, w!o stood y t!e line weeping for t!e life w!i*! t!e Ara s !ad no mind to ta&e# (!e *ontents of t!e tru*&s were food-stuffs, some seventy tons of t!em) ?urgently needed?, a**ording to t!e way- ill, in Medain Sali!# 'e sent one way- ill to :eisal, as detailed report of our su**ess, and left t!e ot!er re*eipted in t!e van# 'e also &i*&ed nort!ward some do+en *ivilians, w!o !ad t!oug!t t!ey were going to Medina# ,isani superintended t!e *arrying off or destru*tion of t!e ooty# As efore, t!e Ara s were now merely *amel-drivers, wal&ing e!ind laden pa*&-animals# :arra> !eld my *amel, w!ile Salem and D!eilan !elped wit! t!e e3ploder and t!e too-!eavy wire# "es*ue parties of (ur&s were four !undred yards away w!en we !ad finis!ed, ut we rode off wit!out a man &illed or wounded# My pupils pra*tised t!e art of mining afterwards y t!emselves, and taug!t ot!ers# "umour of t!eir fortune rolled a out t!e tri es in a growing wave- not always intelligently# ?Send us a lurens and we will low up trains wit! it?, wrote t!e %eni Atiye! to :eisal# $e lent t!em Saad, a *ut-and-t!rust Ageyli, y w!ose !elp t!ey got an important train *arrying Suleiman "ifada, our old nuisan*e of 'e>!, wit! twenty t!ousand pounds in gold, and pre*ious trop!ies# Saad repeated !istory y saving only t!e wire for !is s!are# .n t!e ne3t four mont!s our e3perts from A&a a destroyed seventeen lo*omotives# (ravelling e*ame an un*ertain terror for t!e enemy# At Damas*us people s*ram led for t!e a*& seats in trains, even paid e3tra for t!em# (!e engine-drivers stru*&# Civilian traffi* nearly *eased) and we e3tended our t!reat to Aleppo y t!e mere posting a noti*e one nig!t on Damas*us (own $all, t!at good Ara s would !en*eforward travel y t!e Syrian railway at t!eir own ris&# (!e loss of t!e engines was sore upon t!e (ur&s# Sin*e t!e rolling sto*& was pooled for ,alestine and $e>a+, our destru*tions not merely made t!e mass eva*uation of Medina impossi le, ut egan to pin*! t!e army a out /erusalem, >ust as t!e %ritis! t!reat grew formida le# Meanw!ile 4gypt !ad wired for me# An aeroplane *arried me to G#$#H#, w!ere Allen y y splendour of will was re-*reating t!e ro&en %ritis! Army# $e as&ed w!at our railway efforts meant) or rat!er if t!ey meant anyt!ing eyond t!e melodramati* advertisement t!ey gave :eisal?s *ause# . e3plained my !ope to leave t!e line >ust wor&ing, ut only >ust, to Medina) w!ere :a&!ri?s *orps fed itself at less *ost t!an if in prison at Cairo# (!e surest way to limit t!e line wit!out &illing it was y atta*&ing trains# (!e Ara s put into mining a +est a sent from t!eir pure demolitions# 'e *ould not yet rea& t!e line, sin*e rail!ead was t!e strongest point of a railway, and we preferred wea&ness in t!e nearest enemy neig! our till our regular army was trained and e@uipped and numerous enoug! to invest Maan# $e as&ed a out 'adi Musa, e*ause (ur&is! messages s!owed t!eir intention to assault it at on*e# . e3plained t!at we !ad tried to provo&e t!e (ur&s to atta*& 'adi Musa, and were a out to e rewarded

y t!eir falling, fo3ed and fogged, into our trap# 'e went a out in parties, not in stiff formation, and t!eir aeroplanes failed to estimate us# 0o spies *ould *ount us, eit!er, sin*e even ourselves !ad not t!e smallest idea of our strengt! at any given moment# 8n t!e ot!er !and, we &new t!em e3a*tly) ea*! single unit, and every man t!ey moved# (!ey treated us as regulars, and efore venturing a move against us *al*ulated t!e total for*e we *ould meet t!em wit!# 'e, less ort!odo3, &new e3a*tly w!at t!ey would meet us wit!# (!is was our alan*e# :or t!ese years t!e Ara Movement lived on t!e e3!ilarating ut slippery ta leland etween ?*ould? and ?would?# 'e allowed no margin for a**ident- indeed ?no margins? was t!e A&a a motto, *ontinuously in t!e mout!s of all# '!en at last it *ame, /emal?s great atta*& on 'adi Musa made no noise# Maulud presided eautifully# $e opened !is *entre, and wit! t!e greatest of !umour let in t!e (ur&s until t!ey ro&e t!eir fa*es against t!e verti*al *liffs of t!e Ara refuge# (!en, w!ile t!ey were still pu++led and !urt, !e *ame down simultaneously on ot! flan&s# (!ey never again atta*&ed a prepared Ara position# (!eir losses !ad een !eavy, ut t!e loss of nerve at finding us invisi le and yet full of a*&las! *ost t!em more t!an t!e *asualties# (!an&s to Maulud, A&a a e*ame @uit of all *on*ern for its own present safety#

,##- SI.. The "aid upon the ,rid/es

&()PTE"S L.I. T# L...I
"y )ovember, 5657, Allenby was ready to open a general attack against the Turks along his whole front. The Arabs should have done the same in their sector! but $ was afraid to put everything on a throw, and designed instead the specious operation of cutting the 'armuk 8alley railway, to throw into disorder the e%pected Turkish retreat. This half measure met with the failure it deserved.

&()PTE" L.I.
8*to er, a**ordingly, was a mont! of anti*ipation for us, in t!e &nowledge t!at Allen y, wit! %ols and Dawnay, was planning to atta*& t!e Ga+a-%eers!e a line) w!ile t!e (ur&s, a @uite small army strongly entren*!ed, wit! e3*ellent lateral *ommuni*ations, !ad een puffed up y su**essive vi*tories to imagine t!at all %ritis! generals were in*ompetent to &eep w!at t!eir troops !ad won for t!em y dint of s!eer !ard fig!ting# (!ey de*eived t!emselves# Allen y?s *oming !ad re-made t!e 4nglis!# $is readt! of personality swept away t!e mist of private or departmental >ealousies e!ind w!i*! Murray and !is men !ad wor&ed# General 2ynden %ell made way for General %ols, Allen y?s *!ief of staff in :ran*e, a little, @ui*&, rave, pleasant man) a ta*ti*al soldier per!aps, ut prin*ipally an admira le and effa*ed foil to Allen y, w!o used to rela3 !imself on %ols# 9nfortunately, neit!er of t!em !ad t!e power of *!oosing men) ut C!etwode?s >udgement *ompleted t!em wit! Guy Dawnay as t!ird mem er of t!e staff# %ols !ad never an opinion, nor any &nowledge# Dawnay was mainly intelle*t# $e la*&ed t!e eagerness of %ols, and t!e *alm drive and !uman understanding of Allen y, w!o was t!e man t!e men wor&ed for, t!e image we wors!ipped# Dawnay?s *old, s!y mind ga+ed upon our efforts wit! lea& eye, always t!in&ing, t!in&ing# %eneat! t!is mat!emati*al surfa*e !e !id passionate many-sided *onvi*tions, a reasoned s*!olars!ip in !ig!er warfare, and t!e rilliant itterness of a >udgement disappointed wit! us, and wit! life# $e was t!e least professional of soldiers, a an&er w!o read Gree& !istory, a strategist unas!amed,

and a urning poet wit! strengt! over daily t!ings# During t!e war !e !ad !ad t!e grief of planning t!e atta*& at Suvla Bspoiled y in*ompetent ta*ti*iansC and t!e attle for Ga+a# As ea*! wor& of !is was ruined !e wit!drew furt!er into t!e !ardnesses of frosted pride, for !e was of t!e stuff of fanati*s# Allen y, y not seeing !is dissatisfa*tion, ro&e into !im) and Dawnay replied y giving for t!e /erusalem advan*e all t!e talent w!i*! !e a undantly possessed# A *ordial union of two su*! men made t!e (ur&s? position !opeless from t!e outset# (!eir divergent *!ara*ters were mirrored in t!e intri*ate plan# Ga+a !ad een entren*!ed on a 4uropean s*ale wit! line after line of defen*es in reserve# .t was so o viously t!e enemy?s strongest point, t!at t!e %ritis! !ig!er *ommand !ad twi*e *!osen it for frontal atta*&# Allen y, fres! from :ran*e, insisted t!at any furt!er assault must e delivered y overw!elming num ers of men and guns, and t!eir t!rust maintained y enormous @uantities of all &inds of transport# %ols nodded !is assent# Dawnay was not t!e man to fig!t a straig!t attle# $e soug!t to destroy t!e enemy?s strengt! wit! t!e least fuss# 2i&e a master politi*ian, !e used t!e luff C!ief as a *loa& for t!e last dept! of >ustifia le slimness# $e advised a drive at t!e far end of t!e (ur&is! line, near %eers!e a# (o ma&e !is vi*tory *!eap !e wanted t!e enemy main for*e e!ind Ga+a, w!i*! would e est se*ured if t!e %ritis! *on*entration was !idden so t!at t!e (ur&s would elieve t!e flan& atta*& to e a s!allow feint# %ols nodded !is assent# Conse@uently t!e movements were made in great se*re*y) ut Dawnay found an ally in !is intelligen*e staff w!o advised !im to go eyond negative pre*autions, and to give t!e enemy spe*ifi* Band spe*iously wrongC information of t!e plans !e matured# (!is ally was Meinert+!agen, a student of migrating irds drifted into soldiering, w!ose !ot immoral !atred of t!e enemy e3pressed itself as readily in tri*&ery as in violen*e# $e persuaded DawnayAllen y relu*tantly agreed- %ols assented, and t!e wor& egan# Meinert+!agen &new no !alf measures# $e was logi*al, an idealist of t!e deepest, and so possessed y !is *onvi*tions t!at !e was willing to !arness evil to t!e *!ariot of good# $e was a strategist, a geograp!er, and a silent laug!ing masterful man) w!o too& as lit!e a pleasure in de*eiving !is enemy Bor !is friendC y some uns*rupulous >est, as in spattering t!e rains of a *ornered mo of Germans one y one wit! !is Afri*an &no -&erri# $is instin*ts were a etted y an immensely powerful ody and a savage rain, w!i*! *!ose t!e est way to its purpose, un!ampered y dou t or !a it Meiner t!oug!t out false Army papers, ela orate and *onfidential, w!i*! to a trained staff offi*er would indi*ate wrong positions for Allen y?s main formation, a wrong dire*tion of t!e *oming atta*&, and a date some days too late# (!is information was led up to y *areful !ints given in *ode wireless messages# '!en !e &new t!e enemy !ad pi*&ed t!ese up, Meinert+!agen rode out wit! !is note oo&s, on re*onnaissan*e# $e pus!ed forward until t!e enemy saw !im# .n t!e ensuing gallop !e lost all !is loose e@uipment and very nearly !imself, ut was rewarded y seeing t!e enemy reserves !eld e!ind Ga+a and t!eir w!ole preparations swung towards t!e *oast and made less urgent# Simultaneously, an Army order y Ali :uad ,as!a *autioned !is staff against *arrying do*uments into t!e line# 'e on t!e Ara front were very intimate wit! t!e enemy# 8ur Ara offi*ers !ad een (ur&is! 8ffi*ers, and &new every leader on t!e ot!er side personally# (!ey !ad suffered t!e same training, t!oug!t t!e same, too& t!e same point of view# %y pra*tising modes of approa*! upon t!e Ara s we *ould e3plore t!e (ur&s- understand, almost get inside, t!eir minds# "elation etween us and t!em was universal, for t!e *ivil population of t!e enemy area was w!olly ours wit!out pay or persuasion# .n *onse@uen*e our intelligen*e servi*e was t!e widest, fullest and most *ertain imagina le# 'e &new, etter t!an Allen y, t!e enemy !ollowness, and t!e magnitude of t!e %ritis! resour*es# 'e under-estimated t!e *rippling effe*t of Allen y?s too plentiful artillery, and t!e *um rous intri*a*y of !is infantry and *avalry, w!i*! moved only wit! r!eumati* slowness# 'e !oped Allen y would e given a mont!?s fine weat!er) and, in t!at *ase, e3pe*ted to see !im ta&e, not merely /erusalem, ut

$aifa too, sweeping t!e (ur&s in ruin t!roug! t!e !ills# Su*! would e our moment, and we needed to e ready for it in t!e spot w!ere our weig!t and ta*ti*s would e least e3pe*ted and most damaging# :or my eyes, t!e *entre of attra*tion was Deraa, t!e >un*tion of t!e /erusalem-$aifa-Damas*us-Medina railways, t!e navel of t!e (ur&is! Armies in Syria, t!e *ommon point of all t!eir fronts) and, y *!an*e, an area in w!i*! lay great untou*!ed reserves of Ara fig!ting men, edu*ated and armed y :eisal from A&a a# 'e *ould t!ere use "ualla, Sera!in, Serdiye!, ;!oreis!a) and, far stronger t!an tri es, t!e settled peoples of $auran and /e el Druse# . pondered for a w!ile w!et!er we s!ould not *all up all t!ese ad!erents and ta*&le t!e (ur&is! *ommuni*ations in for*e# 'e were *ertain, wit! any management, of twelve t!ousand men- enoug! to rus! Deraa, to smas! all t!e railway lines, even to ta&e Damas*us y surprise# Any one of t!ese t!ings would ma&e t!e position of t!e %eers!e a army *riti*al- and my temptation to sta&e our *apital instantly upon t!e issue was very sore# 0ot for t!e first or last time servi*e to two masters ir&ed me# . was one of Allen y?s offi*ers, and in !is *onfiden*e- in return, !e e3pe*ted me to do t!e est . *ould for !im# . was :eisal?s adviser, and :eisal relied upon t!e !onesty and *ompeten*e of my advi*e so far as often to ta&e it wit!out argument# 1et . *ould not e3plain to Allen y t!e w!ole Ara situation, nor dis*lose t!e full %ritis! plan to :eisal# (!e lo*al people were imploring us to *ome# S!ei&! (alal el $areid!in, leader of t!e !ollow *ountry a out Deraa, sent in repeated messages t!at, wit! a few of our riders as proof of Ara support, !e would give us Deraa# Su*! an e3ploit would !ave done t!e Allen y usiness, ut was not one w!i*! :eisal *ould s*rupulously afford unless !e !ad a fair !ope of t!en esta lis!ing !imself t!ere# Deraa?s sudden *apture, followed y a retreat, would !ave involved t!e massa*re, or t!e ruin of all t!e splendid peasantry of t!e distri*t# (!ey *ould only rise on*e, and t!eir effort on t!at o**asion must e de*isive# (o *all t!em out now was to ris& t!e est asset :eisal !eld for eventual su**ess, on t!e spe*ulation t!at Allen y?s first atta*& would sweep t!e enemy efore it, and t!at t!e mont! of 0ovem er would e rainless, favoura le to a rapid advan*e# . weig!ed t!e 4nglis! army in my mind, and *ould not !onestly assure myself of t!em# (!e men were often gallant fig!ters, ut t!eir generals as often gave away in stupidity w!at t!ey !ad gained in ignoran*e# Allen y was @uite untried, sent to us wit! a not- lameless re*ord from :ran*e, and !is troops !ad ro&en down in and een ro&en y t!e Murray period# 8f *ourse, we were fig!ting for an Allied vi*tory, and sin*e t!e 4nglis! were t!e leading partners, t!e Ara s would !ave, in t!e last resort, to e sa*rifi*ed for t!em# %ut was it t!e last resortJ (!e war generally was going neit!er well nor very ill, and it seemed as t!oug! t!ere mig!t e time for anot!er try ne3t year# So . de*ided to postpone t!e !a+ard for t!e Ara s? sa&e#

&()PTE" L..
$owever, t!e Ara Movement lived on Allen y?s good pleasure, so it was needful to underta&e some operation, less t!an a general revolt, in t!e enemy rear- an operation w!i*! *ould e a*!ieved y a raiding party wit!out involving t!e settled peoples) and yet one w!i*! would please !im y eing of material !elp to t!e %ritis! pursuit of t!e enemy# (!ese *onditions and @ualifi*ations pointed, upon *onsideration, to an attempted *utting of one of t!e great ridges in t!e 1armu& <alley# .t was y t!e narrow and pre*ipitous gorge of t!e %iver 1armu& t!at t!e railway from ,alestine *lim ed to $auran, on its way to Damas*us# (!e dept! of t!e /ordan depression, and t!e a ruptness of t!e eastern plateau-fa*e made t!is se*tion of t!e line most diffi*ult to uild# (!e engineers !ad to lay it in t!e very *ourse of t!e winding river-valley- and to gain its development t!e line !ad to *ross and re*ross t!e stream *ontinually y a series of ridges, t!e fart!est west and t!e fart!est east of w!i*! were !ardest to repla*e#

(o *ut eit!er of t!ese ridges would isolate t!e (ur&is! army in ,alestine, for one fortnig!t, from its ase in Damas*us, and destroy its power of es*aping from Allen y?s advan*e# (o rea*! t!e 1armu& we s!ould need to ride from A&a a, y way of A+ra&, some four !undred and twenty miles# (!e (ur&s t!oug!t t!e danger from us so remote t!at t!ey guarded t!e ridges insuffi*iently# A**ordingly we suggested t!e s*!eme to Allen y, w!o as&ed t!at it e done on 0ovem er t!e fift!, or one of t!e t!ree following days# .f it su**eeded, and t!e weat!er !eld up afterwards for a fortnig!t, t!e odds were t!at no *o!erent unit of von "ress?s army would survive its retreat to Damas*us# (!e Ara s would t!en !ave t!eir opportunity to *arry t!eir wave forward into t!e great *apital, ta&ing up at t!e !alf-way point from t!e %ritis!, w!ose original impulse would t!en e nearly e3!austed, wit! t!e e3!austion of t!eir transport# :or su*! an eventuality we needed at A+ra& an aut!ority to lead t!e potential lo*al ad!erents# 0asir, our usual pioneer, was a sent- ut out wit! t!e %eni Sa&!r was Ali i n el $ussein, t!e yout!ful and attra*tive $arit! S!erif, w!o !ad distinguis!ed !imself in :eisal?s early desperate days a out Medina, and later !ad out-new*om ed 0ew*om e a out el 9la# A!?, !aving een /emal?s guest in Damas*us, !ad learned somet!ing of Syria- so . egged a loan of !im from :eisal# $is *ourage, !is resour*e, and !is energy were proven# (!ere !ad never een any adventure, sin*e our eginning, too dangerous for Ali to attempt, nor a disaster too deep for !im to fa*e wit! !is !ig! yell of a laug!# $e was p!ysi*ally splendid- not tall nor !eavy, ut so strong t!at !e would &neel down, resting !is forearms palm-up on t!e ground, and rise to !is feet wit! a man on ea*! !and# .n addition, Ali *ould outstrip a trotting *amel on !is are feet, &eep !is speed over !alf a mile and t!en leap into t!e saddle# $e was impertinent, !eadstrong, *on*eited) as re*&less in word as in deed) impressive Bif !e pleasedC on pu li* o**asions, and fairly edu*ated for a person w!ose native am ition was to e3*el t!e nomads of t!e desert in war and sport# Ali would ring us t!e %eni Sa&!r# 'e !ad good !opes of t!e Sera!in, t!e tri e at A+ra&# . was in tou*! wit! t!e %eni $assan# (!e "ualla, of *ourse, at t!is season were away at t!eir winter @uarters, so t!at our greatest *ard in t!e $auran *ould not e played# :ai+ el G!usein !ad gone into t!e 2e>a! to prepare for a*tion against t!e $auran "ailway if t!e signal *ame# 43plosives were stored in desira le pla*es# 8ur friends in Damas*us were warned) and A!? "i+a ,as!a "i&a i, t!e *ity?s military governor for t!e inno*ent (ur&s, and at t!e same time *!ief agent and *onspirator for t!e S!erif, too& @uiet steps to retain *ontrol if t!e emergen*y arose# My detailed plan was to rus! from A+ra&, under guidan*e of "afa Bt!at most gallant s!ei&! w!o !ad *onvoyed me in /uneC, to 9m ;eis, in one or two !uge mar*!es wit! a !andful of, per!aps, fifty men# 9m ;eis was Gadara, very pre*ious wit! its memories of Menippus and of Meleager, t!e immoral Gree&-Syrian w!ose self-e3pression mar&ed t!e !ig!est point of Syrian letters# .t stood >ust over t!e westernmost of t!e 1armu& ridges, a steel masterpie*e w!ose destru*tion would fairly enrol me in t!e Gadarene s*!ool# 8nly !alf a do+en sentries were stationed a*tually on t!e girders and a utments# "eliefs for t!em were supplied from a garrison of si3ty, in t!e station uildings of $emme, w!ere t!e !ot springs of Gadara yet gus!ed out to t!e advantage of lo*al si*&# My !ope was to persuade some of t!e A u (ayi under Gaal to *ome wit! me# (!ese men-wolves would ma&e *ertain t!e a*tual storming of t!e ridge# (o prevent enemy reinfor*ements *oming up we would sweep t!e approa*!es wit! ma*!ine-guns, !andled y Captain %ray?s .ndian volunteers from t!e *avalry division in :ran*e, under /emadar $assan S!a!, a firm and e3perien*ed man# (!ey !ad een mont!s up *ountry, rail*utting, from 'e>!, and mig!t fairly e assumed to !ave e*ome e3perts on *amel- a*&, fit for t!e for*ed mar*!es in prospe*t# (!e demolition of great underslung girders wit! limited weig!ts of e3plosive was a pre*ise operation, and demanded a ne*&la*e of lasting gelatine, fired ele*tri*ally# (!e humber made us *anvas straps and u*&les, to simplify t!e fi3ing# 0one t!e less, t!e >o remained a diffi*ult one to do under fire# :or fear of a *asualty, 'ood, t!e ase engineer at A&a a, t!e only sapper availa le, was invited to

*ome along and dou le me# $e immediately agreed, t!oug! &nowing !e !ad een *ondemned medi*ally for a*tive servi*e as t!e result of a ullet t!roug! t!e !ead in :ran*e# George 2loyd, w!o was spending a last few days in A&a a efore going to <ersailles on a regretted inter-allied Commission, said t!at !e would ride up wit! us to /efer- as !e was one of t!e est fellows and least o trusive travellers alive, !is *oming added greatly to our forlorn anti*ipation#

Turk Troops &om"e# i% 'a#i Fara 'e were ma&ing our last preparations w!en an une3pe*ted ally arrived in 4mir A d el ;ader el /e+airi, grandson of t!e *!ivalrous defender of Algiers against t!e :ren*!# (!e e3iled family !ad lived in Damas*us for a generation# 8ne of t!em, 8mar, !ad een !anged y /emal for treason dis*losed in t!e ,i*ot papers# (!e ot!ers !ad een deported, and A d el ;ader told us a long story of !is es*ape from %rusa, and !is >ourney, wit! a t!ousand adventures, a*ross Anatolia to Damas*us# .n reality, !e !ad een enlarged y t!e (ur&s upon re@uest of t!e ;!edive A as $ilmi, and sent down y !im on private usiness to Me**a# $e went t!ere, saw ;ing $ussein, and *ame a*& wit! a *rimson anner, and no le gifts, !is *ra+y mind !alf-persuaded of our rig!t, and glowing >er&ily wit! e3*itement# (o :eisal !e offered t!e odies and souls of !is villagers, sturdy, !ard-smiting Algerian e3iles living *ompa*tly along t!e nort! an& of t!e 1armu&# 'e sei+ed at t!e *!an*e t!is would give us to *ontrol for a little time t!e middle se*tion of t!e <alley railway, in*luding two or t!ree main ridges, wit!out t!e disa ility of raising t!e *ountry-side) sin*e t!e Algerians were !ated strangers and t!e Ara peasantry would not >oin t!em# A**ordingly, we put off *alling "afa to meet us at A+ra&, and said not a word to Gaal, *on*entrating our t!oug!ts instead on 'adi ;!alid and its ridges# '!ile we were in t!is train of mind arrived a telegram from Colonel %remond, warning us t!atA d el ;ader was a spy in pay of t!e (ur&s# .t was dis*on*erting# 'e wat*!ed !im narrowly, ut found no proof of t!e *!arge, w!i*! was not to e a**epted lindly, as from %remond, w!o was more a lia ility t!an our *olleague) !is military temper mig!t !ave *arried away !is >udgement w!en !e !eard A d el ;ader?s outspo&en pu li* and private denun*iations of :ran*e# (!e :ren*! *on*eption of t!eir *ountry as a fair woman lent to t!em a national spitefulness against t!ose w!o s*orned !er *!arms# :eisal told A d el ;ader to ride wit! Ali and myself, and said to me, ?. &now !e is mad# . t!in& !e is !onest# Guard your !eads and use !im?# 'e *arried on, s!owing !im our *omplete *onfiden*e, on t!e prin*iple t!at a *roo& would not *redit our !onesty, and t!at an !onest man was made a *roo& soonest y suspi*ion# As a matter of fa*t, !e was an .slami* fanati*, !alf-insane wit! religious ent!usiasm and a most violent elief in !imself# $is Moslem sus*epti ilities were outraged y my undisguised C!ristianity# $is pride was !urt y our *ompanions!ip) for t!e tri es greeted Ali as greater, and treated me as etter, t!an !imself# $is ullet-!eaded stupidity ro&e down Ali?s self-*ontrol twi*e or t!ri*e into painful s*enes- w!ile !is final effort was to leave us in t!e lur*! at a desperate moment,

after !indering our mar*! and upsetting ourselves and our plans as far as !e *ould#

&()PTE" L..I
Starting was as diffi*ult as ever# :or my odyguard . too& si3 re*ruits# 8f t!ese Ma!mud was a native of t!e 1armu&# $e was an alert and !ot-tempered lad of nineteen, wit! t!e petulan*e often a**ompanying *urly !air# Anot!er, A+i+, of (afas, an older fellow, !ad spent t!ree years wit! t!e %eduin in avoidan*e of military servi*e# (!oug! *apa le wit! *amels, !e was a s!allow spirit, almost ra it-mout!ed, ut proud# A t!ird was Mustafa, a gentle oy from Deraa, very !onest, w!o went a out sadly y !imself e*ause !e was deaf, and as!amed of !is infirmity# 8ne day on t!e ea*!, in a s!ort word !e !ad egged admittan*e to my odyguard# So evidently did !e e3pe*t to e refused t!at . too& !im) and it was a good *!oi*e for t!e ot!ers, sin*e !e was a mild peasant, w!om t!ey *ould ully into all t!e menial tas&s# 1et !e, too, was !appy, for !e was among desperate fellows, and t!e world would t!in& !im desperate# (o alan*e !is ineffi*ien*y on t!e mar*! . enrolled S!owa& and Salem, two S!erari *amel-!erds, and A d el "a!man, a runaway slave from "iyadt!# 8f t!e old odyguard . gave Mo!ammed and Ali a rest# (!ey were tired after train-wre*&ing adventures) and, li&e t!eir *amels, needed to pasture @uietly aw!ile# (!is left A!med t!e inevita le !ead man# $is rut!less energy deserved promotion, ut t!e o vious *!oi*e as ever failed# $e misused !is power and e*ame oppressive) so it was !is last mar*! wit! me# . too& ;reim for t!e *amels) and "a!ail, t!e lusty, *on*eited $aurani lad, for w!om overwor& was t!e gra*e w!i*! &ept !im *ontinent# Matar, a parasite fellow of t!e %eni $assan, atta*!ed !imself to us# $is fat peasant?s utto*&s filled !is *amel-saddle, and too& nearly as large a s!are in t!e lewd or lurid >o&es w!i*!, on mar*!, !elped pass my guards? leisure# 'e mig!t enter %eni $assan territory, w!ere !e !ad some influen*e# $is un lus!ing greed made us sure of !im, till !is e3pe*tations failed# My servi*e was now profita le, for . &new my wort! to t!e movement, and spent freely to &eep myself safe# "umour, for on*e in a !elpful mood, gilded my open !and# :arra> and Daud, wit! ;!idr and Mi> il, two %ias!a, *ompleted t!e party # :arra> and Daud were *apa le and merry on t!e road, w!i*! t!ey loved as all t!e lit!e Ageyl loved it) ut in *amp t!eir e3*ess of spirit led t!em *ontinually into dear affairs# (!is time t!ey surpassed t!emselves y disappearing on t!e morning of our departure# At noon *ame a message from S!ei&! 1usuf t!at t!ey were in !is prison, and would . tal& to !im a out itJ . went up to t!e !ouse and found !is ul& s!a&ing etween laug!ter and rage# $e !ad >ust oug!t a *ream-*oloured riding-*amel of purest lood# (!e east !ad strayed in t!e evening into t!e palm-garden w!ere my Ageyl were *amped# (!ey never suspe*ted s!e elonged to t!e Governor, ut la oured till dawn dyeing !er !ead rig!t red wit! !enna, and !er legs lue wit! indigo, efore turning !er loose# A&a a u led immediately in an uproar a out t!is *ir*us east# 1usuf re*ogni+ed !er wit! diffi*ulty and !urled all !is poli*e a road to find t!e *riminals# (!e two friends were dragged efore t!e >udgement seat, stained to t!e el ows wit! dye, and loudly protesting t!eir entire inno*en*e# Cir*umstan*es, !owever, were too strong) and 1usuf after doing !is est wit! a palm-ri to !urt t!eir feelings, put t!em in irons for a slow wee&?s meditation# My *on*ern made good !is damage y t!e loan of a *amel till !is own s!ould e respe*ta le# (!en . e3plained our instant need of t!e sinners, and promised anot!er dose of !is treatment for t!em w!en t!eir s&ins were fit- so !e ordered t!eir release# (!ey were delig!ted to es*ape t!e verminous prison on any terms, and re>oined us singing# (!is usiness !ad delayed us# So we !ad an immense final meal in t!e lu3ury of *amp, and started in t!e evening# :or four !ours we mar*!ed slowly- a first mar*! was always slow, and ot! *amels and men !ated t!e setting out on a new !a+ard# 2oads slipped, saddles !ad to e re-girt!ed, and riders *!anged# .n addition to my own *amels BG!a+ala, t!e old grandmot!er, now far gone in foal, and "ima, a full-pointed S!erari *amel w!i*! t!e Su&!ur !ad stolen from t!e "uallaC and t!ose of t!e odyguard, . !ad mounted t!e .ndians, and lent one to 'ood Bw!o was deli*ate in t!e saddle and rode a fres! animal nearly every dayC, and one to (!orne, 2loyd?s yeomanry trooper, w!o sat !is saddle

li&e an Ara and loo&ed wor&manli&e in a !ead-*lot!, wit! a striped *loa& over !is &!a&i# 2loyd !imself was on a t!oroug! red D!eraiye! w!i*! :eisul !ad lent !im- a fine, fast-loo&ing animal, ut *lipped after mange and t!in# 8ur party straggled# 'ood fell e!ind, and my men, eing fres!, and !aving mu*! wor& to &eep t!e .ndians toget!er, lost tou*! wit! !im# So !e found !imself alone wit! (!orne, and missed our turn to t!e east, in t!e la*&ness w!i*! always filled t!e dept!s of t!e .tm gorge y nig!t, e3*ept w!en t!e moon was dire*tly over!ead# (!ey went on up t!e main tra*& towards Guweira, riding for !ours) ut at last de*ided to wait for day in a side valley# %ot! were new to t!e *ountry, and not sure of t!e Ara s, so t!ey too& turns to &eep wat*!# 'e guessed w!at !ad !appened w!en t!ey failed to appear at our midnig!t !alt, and efore dawn A!med, A+i+ and A d el "a!man went a*&, wit! orders to s*atter up t!e t!ree or four pra*ti*a le roads and ring t!e missi ng pair to "umm# . stayed wit! 2loyd and t!e main ody as t!eir guide a*ross t!e *urved slopes of pin& sandstone and tamaris&-green valleys to "umm# Air and lig!t were so wonderful t!at we wandered wit!out t!in&ing in t!e least of to-morrow# .ndeed, !ad . not 2loyd to tal& toJ (!e world e*ame very good# A faint s!ower last evening !ad roug!t eart! and s&y toget!er in t!e mellow day# (!e *olours in *liffs and trees and soil were so pure, so vivid, t!at we a*!ed for real *onta*t wit! t!em, and at our tet!ered ina ility to *arry anyt!ing of t!em away# 'e were full of leisure# (!e .ndians proved ad *amelmasters, w!ile :arra> and Daud pleaded a new form of saddle-soreness, *alled (usufiye!?, w!i*! made t!em wal& mile after mile# 'e entered "uinm at last, w!ile t!e *rimson sunset urned on its stupendous *liffs and slanted ladders of !a+y fire down t!e walled avenue# 'ood and (!orne were t!ere already, in t!e sandstone amp!it!eatre of t!e springs# 'ood was ill, and lying on t!e platform of my old *amp# A d el "a!man !ad *aug!t t!em efore noon, and persuaded t!em to follow !im after a good deal of misunderstanding, for t!eir few words of 4gyptian did not !elp mu*! wit! !is *lipped Arid! diale*t or t!e $oweiti slang wit! w!i*! !e e&ed it out# $e !ad *ut a*ross t!e !ills y a diffi*ult pat! to t!eir great dis*omfort# 'ood !ad een !ungry and !ot and worried, angry to t!e point of refusing t!e native mess w!i*! A d el "a!man *ontrived t!em in a wayside tent# $e !ad egun to elieve t!at !e would never see us again, and was ungrateful w!en we proved too over*ome wit! t!e awe t!at "umm *ompelled on !er visitors to sympat!i+e deeply wit! !is sufferings# .n fa*t, we stared and said ?1es?, and left !im lying t!ere w!ile we wandered w!ispering a out t!e wonder of t!e pla*e# :ortunately A!med and (!orne t!oug!t more of food- and wit! supper friendly relations were restored# 0e3t day, w!ile we were saddling, A!? and A d el ;ader appeared# 2loyd and . !ad a se*ond lun*! wit! t!em, for t!ey were @uarrelling, and to !ave guests !eld t!em in *!e*&# 2loyd was t!e rare sort of traveller w!o *ould eat anyt!ing wit! any ody, any!ow and at any time# (!en, ma&ing pa*e, we pus!ed after our party down t!e giant valley, w!ose !ills tell s!ort of ar*!ite*ture only in design# At t!e ottom we *rossed t!e flat Gaa, mat*!ing our *amels in a urst over its velvet surfa*e, until we overtoo& t!e main ody, and s*attered t!em wit! t!e e3*itement of our gallop# (!e .ndians? so erly laden *amels dan*ed li&e ironmongery till t!ey !ad s!ed t!eir urdens# (!en we *almed ourselves, and plodded toget!er gently up 'adi $afira, a gas! li&e a sword-*ut into t!e plateau# At its !ead lay a stiff pass to t!e !eig!t of %atra) ut to-day we fell s!ort of t!is, and out of la+iness and *raving for *omfort stopped in t!e s!eltered ottom of t!e valley# 'e lit great fires, w!i*! were *!eerful in t!e *ool evening# :arra> prepared ri*e in !is manner for me as usual# 2loyd and 'ood and (!orne !ad roug!t wit! t!em ully eef in tins and %ritis! army is*uits# So we >oined ran&s and feasted# 0e3t day we *lim ed t!e +ig+ag ro&en pass, t!e grassy street of $afira elow us framing a *one-!ill in its *entre, wit!, as a*&ground, t!e fantasti* grey domes and glowing pyramids of t!e mountains of "umm, prolonged to-day into wider fantasies y t!e *loud-masses rooding over t!em# 'e wat*!ed our long train wind upwards, till efore noon t!e *amels, Ara s, .ndians and aggage !ad rea*!ed t!e top wit!out a**ident# Contentedly we plumped ourselves down in t!e first green valley over t!e *rest,

s!eltered from t!e wind, and warmed y t!e faint suns!ine w!i*! tempered t!e autumn *!ill of t!is !ig! ta leland# Someone egan to tal& again a out food#

&()PTE" L..II
. went away nort!, s*outing wit! Awad, a S!erari *amel oy, engaged in "umm wit!out investigation# (!ere were so many aggage *amels in our party, and t!e .ndians proved su*! novi*es at loading and leading t!em, t!at my odyguard were eing diverted from t!eir proper duty of riding wit! me# So w!en S!owa&! introdu*ed !is *ousin, a ;!ayal S!erari w!o would serve wit! me on any *onditions, . a**epted !im at t!e glan*e- and now set out to measure !is wort! in a predi*ament# 'e *ir*led round A a el 2issan to ma&e sure t!at t!e (ur&s were in seemly idleness, for t!ey !ad a !a it of rus!ing a mounted patrol over t!e %atra sites at sudden noti*e, and . !ad no mind to put our party into unne*essary a*tion yet# Awad was a ragged, rown-s&inned lad of per!aps eig!teen, splendidly uilt, wit! t!e mus*les and sinews of an at!lete, a*tive as a *at, alive in t!e saddle B!e rode magnifi*entlyC and not ill-loo&ing, t!oug! wit! somet!ing of t!e ase appearan*e of t!e S!erarat, and in !is savage eye an air of *onstant and rat!er suspi*ious e3pe*tan*y, as t!oug! !e loo&ed any moment for somet!ing new from life, and t!at somet!ing not of !is see&ing or ordering, nor w!olly grateful# (!ese S!erarat !elots were an enigma of t!e desert# 8t!er men mig!t !ave !opes or illusions# S!erarat &new t!at not!ing etter t!an p!ysi*al e3isten*e was willingly permitted t!em y man&ind in t!is world or anot!er# Su*! e3treme degradation was a positive ase on w!i*! to uild a trust# . treated t!em e3a*tly li&e t!e ot!ers in my odyguard# (!is t!ey found astonis!ing) and yet pleasant, w!en t!ey !ad learned t!at my prote*tion was a*tive and suffi*ient# '!ile t!ey served me t!ey e*ame w!olly my property, and good slaves t!ey were, for not!ing pra*ti*a le in t!e desert was eneat! t!eir dignity, or eyond t!eir tempered strengt! and e3perien*e# Awad efore me s!owed !imself *onfused and self-*ons*ious, t!oug! wit! !is fellows !e *ould e merry and full of >apes# $is engagement was a sudden fortune eyond dreams, and !e was pitifully determined to suit my mind# :or t!e moment t!is was to wander a*ross t!e Maan !ig! road in order to draw t!e (ur&s? noti*e# '!en we !ad su**eeded, and t!ey trotted out in *!ase, we returned a*&, dou led again, and so tri*&ed t!eir mule-riders away nort!ward out of t!e dire*tion of danger# Awad too& gleeful *on*ern in t!e game and !andled !is new rifle well# Afterwards . *lim ed wit! !im to t!e top of a !ill overloo&ing %atra, and t!e valleys w!i*! sloped to A a el 2issan, and we lay t!ere la+ily till afternoon, wat*!ing t!e (ur&s riding in a vain dire*tion, and our fellows asleep, and t!eir pasturing *amels, and t!e s!adows of t!e low *louds seeming li&e gentle !ollows as t!ey *!ased over t!e grass in t!e pale sunlig!t# .t was pea*eful, *!illy, and very far from t!e fretting world# (!e austerity of !eig!t s!amed a*& t!e vulgar aggage of our *ares# .n t!e pla*e of *onse@uen*e it set freedom, power to e alone, to slip t!e es*ort of our manufa*tured selves) a rest and forgetfulness of t!e *!ains of eing# %ut Awad *ould not forget !is appetite and t!e new sensation of power in my *aravan to satisfy it regularly ea*! day- so !e fidgeted a out t!e ground on !is elly *!ewing innumera le stal&s of grass, and tal&ing to me of !is animal >oys in >er&y p!rases wit! averted fa*e, till we saw Ali?s *aval*ade eginning to lip over t!e !ead of t!e pass# (!en we ran down t!e slopes to meet t!em, and !eard !ow !e !ad lost four *amels on t!e pass, two ro&en y falls, two failing t!roug! wea&ness as t!ey mounted t!e ro*&y ledges# Also, !e !ad fallen out again wit! A d el ;ader, from w!ose deafness and *on*eit and ooris! manners !e prayed God to deliver !im# (!e 4mir moved so *um rously, !aving no sense of t!e road- and flatly refused to >oin wit! 2loyd and myself into one *aravan, for safety# 'e left t!em to follow us after dar&, and as t!ey !ad no guide, . loaned t!em Awad# 'e would meet again in Auda?s tents# (!en we moved forward over s!allow valleys and *ross-ridges till t!e sun set e!ind t!e last !ig! an&, from w!ose top we saw t!e s@uare o3 of t!e station at G!adir el $a> rea&ing artifi*ially out of t!e level, miles and miles away# %e!ind us in t!e valley were room

us!es, so we *alled a !alt, and made our supper-fires# (!is evening $assan S!a! devised a pleasant notion Blater to e*ome a !a itC of winding up our meal y an offering of !is .ndian tea# 'e were too greedy and grateful to refuse, and s!amelessly e3!austed !is tea and sugar efore fres! rations *ould e sent !im from t!e ase# 2loyd and . mar&ed t!e earing of t!e railway w!ere we purposed to *ross >ust elow S!edia# As t!e stars rose we agreed t!at we must mar*! upon 8rion# So we started and mar*!ed on 8rion for !our after !our, wit! effe*t t!at 8rion seemed no nearer, and t!ere were no signs of anyt!ing etween us and !im# 'e !ad de ou*!ed from t!e ridges upon t!e plain, and t!e plain was never-ending, and monotonously striped y s!allow wadi- eds, wit! low, flat, straig!t an&s, w!i*! in t!e mil&y starlig!t loo&ed always li&e t!e eart!wor& of t!e e3pe*ted railway# (!e going underfoot was firm, and t!e *ool air of t!e desert in our fa*es made t!e *amels swing out freely# 2loyd and . went in front to spy out t!e line, t!at t!e main ody mig!t not e involved if *!an*e put us against a (ur&is! lo*&!ouse or nig!t-patrol# 8ur fine *amels, lig!tly ridden, set too long a stride) so t!at, wit!out &nowing, we drew more and more a!ead of t!e laden .ndians# $assan S!a! t!e /emadar t!rew out a man to &eep us in sig!t, and t!en anot!er, and after t!at a t!ird, till !is party was a !urrying string of *onne*ting files# (!en !e sent up an urgent w!isper to go slowly, ut t!e message w!i*! rea*!ed us after its passage t!roug! t!ree languages was unintelligi le# 'e !alted and so &new t!at t!e @uiet nig!t was full of sounds, w!ile t!e s*ents of wit!ering grass e ed and flowed a out us wit! t!e dying wind# Afterwards we mar*!ed again more slowly, as it seemed for !ours, and t!e plain was still arred wit! de*eitful dy&es, w!i*! &ept our attention at unprofita le stret*!# 'e felt t!e stars were s!ifting and t!at we were steering wrong# 2loyd !ad a *ompass somew!ere# 'e !alted and groped in !is deep saddle- ags# (!orne rode up and found it# 'e stood around *al*ulating on its luminous arrow-!ead, and deserted 8rion for a more auspi*ious nort!ern star# (!en again intermina ly forward till as we *lim ed a larger an& 2loyd reined up wit! a gasp and pointed# :air in our tra*& on t!e !ori+on were two *u es la*&er t!an t!e s&y, and y t!em a pointed roof# 'e were earing straig!t for S!edia station, nearly into it# 'e swung to t!e rig!t, and >ogged !astily a*ross an open spa*e, a little nervous lest some of t!e *aravan strung out e!ind us s!ould miss t!e a rupt *!ange of *ourse- ut all was well, and a few minutes later in t!e ne3t !ollow we e3*!anged our t!rill in 4nglis! and (ur&is!, Ara i* and 9rdu# %e!ind us ro&e out a faint pulse-@ui*&ening *lamour of dogs in t!e (ur&is! *amp# 'e now &new our pla*e, and too& a fres! earing to avoid t!e first lo*&!ouse elow S!edia# 'e led off *onfidently, e3pe*ting in a little to *ross t!e line# 1et again time dragged and not!ing s!owed itself# .t was midnig!t, we !ad mar*!ed for si3 !ours, and 2loyd egan to spea& itterly of rea*!ing %agdad in t!e morning# (!ere *ould e no railway !ere# (!orne saw a row of trees, and saw t!em move) t!e olts of our rifles *li*&ed, ut t!ey were only trees# 'e gave up !ope, and rode *arelessly, nodding in our saddles, letting our tired eyes lid t!emselves# My "ima lost !er temper suddenly# 'it! a s@ueal s!e plunged sideways, nearly unseating me, pran*ed wildly over two an&s and a dit*! and flung !erself flat in a dusty pla*e# . !it !er over t!e !ead, and s!e rose and pa*ed forward nervously# Again t!e .ndians lagged far e!ind our !asty selves) ut after an !our t!e last an& of to-nig!t loomed differently in front of us# .t too& straig!t s!ape, and over its lengt! grew dar&er pat*!es w!i*! mig!t e t!e s!adowed mout!s of *ulverts# 'e spurred our minds to a fres! interest, and drove our animals swiftly and silently forward# '!en we were nearer it, t!e an& put up a fen*ing of s!arp spi&es along its edge# (!ese were t!e telegrap! poles# A w!ite!eaded figure *!e*&ed us for a moment, ut !e never stirred, and so we >udged !im a &ilometre post# Hui*&ly we !alted our party and rode to one side and t!en straig!t in, to *!allenge w!at lay e!ind t!e @uiet of t!e pla*e, e3pe*ting t!e dar&ness to spout fire at us suddenly, and t!e silen*e to volley out in rifle s!ots# %ut t!ere was no alarm# 'e rea*!ed t!e an& and found it deserted# 'e dismounted and ran up and down ea*! way two !undred yards- no ody# (!ere was room for our passage# 'e ordered t!e ot!ers immediately over into t!e empty, friendly desert on t!e east, and sat ourselves

on t!e metals under t!e singing wires, w!ile t!e long line of s!adowy ul&s wavered up out of t!e dar&, s!uffled a little on t!e an& and its allast, and passed down e!ind us into t!e dar& in t!at strained noiselessness w!i*! was a nig!t mar*! of *amels# (!e last one *rossed# 8ur little group *olle*ted a out a telegrap! post# 8ut of a s!ort s*uffle (!orne rose slowly up t!e pole to *at*! t!e lowest wire and swing !imself to its insulator- ra*&et# $e rea*!ed for t!e top, and a moment later t!ere was a loud metalli* twang and s!a&ing of t!e post as t!e *ut wire leaped a*& ea*! way into t!e air, and slapped itself free from si3 or more poles on eit!er side# (!e se*ond and t!ird wires followed it, twisting noisily along t!e stony ground, and yet no answering sound *ame out of t!e nig!t, s!owing t!at we !ad passed lig!tly in t!e empty distan*e of two lo*&!ouses# (!orne, wit! splintery !ands, slid down t!e tottering pole# 'e wal&ed to our &neeling *amels, and trotted after t!e *ompany# Anot!er !our, and we ordered a rest till dawn) ut efore t!en were roused y a rief flurry of rifle fire and t!e tapping of a ma*!ine-gun far away to t!e nort!# 2ittle Ali and A d el ;adir were not ma&ing so *lean a *rossing of t!e line# 0e3t morning, in a *!eerful suns!ine, we mar*!ed up parallel wit! t!e line to salute t!e first train from Maan, and t!en stru*& inland over t!e strange /efer plain# (!e day was *lose, and t!e sun?s power in*reased, ma&ing mirages on all t!e !eated flats# "iding apart from our straggling party, we saw some of t!em drowned in t!e silver flood, ot!ers swimming !ig! over its *!anging surfa*e, w!i*! stret*!ed and s!ran& wi t! ea*! swaying of t!e *amel, or ine@uality of ground# 4arly in t!e afternoon we found Auda *amped uno trusively in t!e ro&en, us!y e3panse sout!-west of t!e wells# $e re*eived us wit! *onstraint# $is large tents, wit! t!e women, !ad een sent away eyond rea*! of t!e (ur&is! aeroplanes# (!ere were few (owei!a present- and t!ose in violent dispute over t!e distri ution of tri al wages# (!e old man was sad we s!ould find !im in su*! wea&ness# . did my est ta*tfully to smoot! t!e trou les y giving t!eir minds a new dire*tion and *ountervailing interests# Su**essfully too, for t!ey smiled, w!i*! wit! Ara s was often !alf t!e attle# 4noug! advantage for t!e time) we ad>ourned to eat wit! Mo!ammed el D!eilan# $e was a etter diplomat, e*ause less open t!an Auda) and would !ave loo&ed *!eerful if !e t!oug!t proper, w!atever t!e trut!# So we were made very wel*ome to !is platter of ri*e and meat and dried tomatoes# Mo!ammed, a villager at !eart, fed too well# After t!e meal, as we were wandering a*& over t!e grey dry dit*!es, li&e mammot!-wallows, w!i*! floods !ad !a*&ed deeply into t!e fi rous mud, . roa*!ed to Gaal my plans for an e3pedition to t!e 1armu& ridges# $e disli&ed t!e idea very mu*!# Gaal in 8*to er was not t!e Gaal of August# Su**ess was *!anging t!e !ard-riding gallant of spring into a prudent man, w!ose new wealt! made Me pre*ious to !im# .n t!e spring !e would !ave led me anyw!ere) ut t!e last raid !ad tried !is nerve, and now !e said !e would mount only if . made a personal point of it# . as&ed w!at party we *ould ma&e up) and !e named t!ree of t!e men in t!e *amp as good fellows for so desperate a !ope# (!e rest of t!e tri e were away, dissatisfied# (o ta&e t!ree (owei!a would e worse t!an useless, for t!eir >ust *on*eit would inflame t!e ot!er men, w!ile t!ey t!emselves were too few to suffi*e alone- so . said . would try elsew!ere# Gaal s!owed !is relief# '!ile we were still dis*ussing w!at we oug!t to do Bfor . needed t!e advi*e of Gaal, one of t!e finest raiders alive, and most *ompetent to >udge my !alf-formed s*!emeC, a s*ared lad rus!ed to our *offee!eart! and lurted t!at riders in a dust-*loud were *oming up fast from t!e side of Maan# (!e (ur&s t!ere !ad a mule-regiment and a *avalry regiment, and were always oasting t!at t!ey would some day visit t!e A u (ayi# So we >umped up to re*eive t!em# Auda !ad fifteen men, of w!om five were a le- odied, and t!e rest grey eards or oys, ut we were t!irty strong, and . pondered t!e !ard lu*& of t!e (ur&is! *ommander w!o !ad *!osen for !is surprise t!e day on w!i*! t!ere !appened to e guesting wit! t!e $oweitat a se*tion of .ndian ma*!inegunners w!o &new t!eir usiness# 'e *ou*!ed and &nee-!altered t!e *amels in t!e deeper water-*uts, and pla*ed t!e <i*&ers and 2ewis in ot!ers of t!ese natural tren*!es, admira ly s*reened wit! al&ali us!es, and *ommanding a flat field eig!t !undred yards ea*! way# Auda dropped !is tents, and t!rew

out !is riflemen to supplement our fire) and t!en we waited easily till t!e first !orseman rode up t!e an& on to our level, and we saw t!ey were Ali i n el $ussein and A d el ;adir, *oming to /efer from t!e enemy dire*tion# 'e foregat!ered merrily, w!ile Mo!ammed produ*ed a se*ond edition of tomato-ri*e for Ali?s *omfort# (!ey !ad lost two men and a mare in t!e s!ooting on t!e railway in t!e nig!t#

&()PTE" L..III
2loyd was to go a*& from !ere to <ersailles, and we as&ed Auda for a guide to ta&e !im a*ross t!e line# A out t!e man t!ere was no diffi*ulty, ut great diffi*ulty in mounting !im) for t!e $oweitat *amels were at pasture- and t!e nearest pasture lay a full day?s >ourney sout!-east of t!ese arren wells# . *ut t!is diffi*ulty y providing a mount for t!e new guide from my own easts# C!oi*e fell on my an*ient G!a+ala, w!ose pregnan*y !ad proved more !eavy t!an we t!oug!t# %efore our long e3pedition ended s!e would e unfit for fast wor&# So, in !onour of !is good seat and *!eerful spirit, (!orne was transferred to !er, w!ile t!e $oweitat stared open-mout!ed# (!ey esteemed G!a+ala a ove all t!e *amels of t!eir desert and would !ave paid mu*! for t!e !onour of riding !er, and !ere s!e was given to a soldier, w!ose pin& fa*e and eyes swollen wit! op!t!almia made !im loo& feminine and tearful) a little, said 2loyd, li&e an a du*ted nun# .t was a sorry t!ing to see 2loyd go# $e was understanding, !elped wisely, and wis!ed our *ause well# Also !e was t!e one fully-taug!t man wit! us in Ara ia, and in t!ese few days toget!er our minds !ad ranged a road, dis*ussing any oo& or t!ing in !eaven or eart! w!i*! *rossed our fan*y# '!en !e left we were given over again to war and tri es and *amels wit!out end# (!e nig!t egan wit! a surfeit of su*! wor&# (!e matter of t!e $oweitat must e put rig!t# After dar& we gat!ered round Auda?s !eart!, and for !ours . was rea*!ing out to t!is *ir*le of fire-lit fa*es, playing on t!em wit! all t!e tortuous arts . &new, now *at*!ing one, now anot!er Bit was easy to see t!e flas! in t!eir eyes w!en a word got !omeC) or again, ta&ing a false line, and wasting minutes of pre*ious time wit!out response# (!e A u (ayi were as !ard-minded as t!ey were !ard- odied, and t!e !eat of *onvi*tion !ad urned out of t!eir lon g sin*e in stress of wor&# Gradually . won my points, ut t!e argument was yet mar*!ing near midnig!t w!en Auda !eld up !is sti*& and *alled silen*e# 'e listened, wondering w!at t!e danger was, and after a w!ile we felt a *reeping rever eration, a *aden*e of lows too dull, too wide, too slow easily to find response in our ears# .t was li&e t!e mutter of a distant, very lowly t!understorm# Auda raised !is !aggard eyes towards t!e west, and said, (!e 4nglis! guns?# Allen y was leading off in preparation, and !is !elpful sounds *losed my *ase for me eyond dispute# 0e3t morning t!e atmosp!ere of t!e *amp was serene and *ordial# 8ld Auda, !is diffi*ulties over for t!is time, em ra*ed me warmly, invo&ing pea*e upon us# At t!e last, w!ilst . was standing wit! my !and on my *ou*!ed *amel, !e ran out, too& me in !is arms again, and strained me to !im# . felt !is !ars! eard rus! my ear as !e w!ispered to me windily, ?%eware of A d el ;ader?# (!ere were too many a out us to say more# 'e pus!ed on over t!e unending ut weirdly eautiful /efer flats, till nig!t fell on us at t!e foot of a flint s*arp, li&e a *liff a ove t!e plain# 'e *amped t!ere, in a sna&e-infested po*&et of underwood# 8ur mar*!es were s!ort and very leisurely# (!e .ndians !ad proved novi*es on t!e road# (!ey !ad een for wee&s inland from 'e>!, and . !ad ras!ly understood t!at t!ey were riders) ut now, on good animals, and trying t!eir est, t!ey *ould average only t!irty-five miles a day, a !oliday for t!e rest of t!e party# So for us ea*! day was an easy movement, wit!out effort, @uite free from odily strain# A golden weat!er of misty dawns, mild sunlig!t, and an evening *!ill added a strange pea*efulness of nature to t!e pea*efulness of our mar*!# (!is wee& was a St# Martin?s summer, w!i*! passed li&e a remem ered dream# . felt only t!at it was very gentle, very *omforta le, t!at t!e air was !appy, and my friends *ontent# Conditions so perfe*t must needs presage t!e ending of our time) ut t!is *ertainty, e*ause

of its eing un*!allenged y any re ellious !ope, served only to deepen t!e @uiet of t!e autumnal present# (!ere was no t!oug!t or *are at all# My mind was as near stilled t!ose days as ever in my life# 'e *amped for lun*! and for a midday rest--t!e soldiers !ad to !ave t!ree meals a day# Suddenly t!ere was an alarm# Men on !orses and *amels appeared from t!e west and nort! and *losed @ui*&ly on us# 'e snat*!ed our rifles# (!e .ndians, getting used to s!ort noti*es, now *arried t!eir <i*&ers and 2ewis mounted for a*tion# After t!irty se*onds we were in *omplete posture of defen*e, t!oug! in t!is s!allow *ountry our position !eld little of advantage# (o t!e front on ea*! flan& were my odyguards in t!eir rilliant *lot!es, lying spread out etween t!e grey tufts of weed, wit! t!eir rifles lovingly against t!eir *!ee&s# %y t!em t!e four neat groups of &!a&i .ndians *rou*!ed a out t!eir guns# %e!ind t!em lay S!erif Ali?s men, !imself in t!eir midst, are!eaded and &een, leaning easily upon !is rifle# .n t!e a*&ground t!e *amel men were driving in our gra+ing animals to e under *over of our fire# .t was a pi*ture t!at t!e party made# . was admiring ourselves and S!erif Ali was e3!orting us to !old our fire till t!e atta*& e*ame real, w!en Awad, wit! a merry laug! sprang up and ran out towards t!e enemy, waving !is full sleeve over !is !ead in sign of friendliness# (!ey fired at, or over !im, ineffe*tually# $e lay down and s!ot a*&, one s!ot, aimed >ust a ove t!e !ead of t!e foremost rider# (!at, and our ready silen*e perple3ed t!em# (!ey pulled off in a !esitant group, and after a minute?s dis*ussion, flagged a*& t!eir *loa&s in !alf-!earted reply to our signal# 8ne of t!em rode towards us at a foot?s pa*e# Awad, prote*ted y our rifles, went two !undred yards to meet !im, and saw t!at !e was a Su&!urri, w!o, w!en !e !eard our names, feigned s!o*&# 'e wal&ed toget!er to S!erif Ali, followed at A distan*e y t!e rest of t!e new*omers, after t!ey !ad seen our pea*eful greeting# (!ey were a raiding party from t!e Ge n Su&!ur, w!o were *amped, as we !ad e3pe*ted, in front at %air# Ali, furious wit! t!em, for t!eir trea*!erous atta*& on us, t!reatened all sorts of pains# (!ey a**epted !is tirade sullenly, saying t!at it was a %eni Sa&!r manner to s!oot over strangers# Ali a**epted t!is as t!eir !a it, and a good !a it in t!e desert, ut protested t!at t!eir un!eralded appearan*e against us from t!ree sides s!owed a premeditated am us!# (!e %eni Sa&!r were a dangerous gang, not pure enoug! nomads to !old t!e nomadi* *ode of !onour or to o ey t!e desert law in spirit, and not villagers enoug! to !ave a >ured t!e usiness of rapine and raid# 8ur late assailants went into %air to report our *oming# Mifle!, *!ief of t!eir *lan, t!oug!t it est to effa*e t!e ill-re*eption y a pu li* s!ow in w!i*! all men and !orses in t!e pla*e turned out to wel*ome us wit! wild *!eers and gallopings and *urvettings, and mu*! firing of s!ots and s!outing# (!ey w!irled round and round us in desperate *!ase, *lattering over ro*&s wit! re*&less !orsemans!ip and small regard for our staidness, as t!ey ro&e in and out of t!e ran&s and let off t!eir rifles under our *amels? ne*&s *ontinually# Clouds of par*!ing *!al& dust arose,so t!at men?s voi*es *roa&ed# 4ventually t!e parade eased off, ut t!en A d el ;ader, t!in&ing t!e opinion even of fools desira le, felt it upon !im to assert !is virtue# (!ey were s!outing to Ali i n el $ussein ?God give vi*tory to our S!erif? and were reining a*& on t!eir !aun*!es eside me wit! 'el*ome, Aurans, !ar inger of a*tion?# So !e *lim ed up !is mare, into !er !ig! Mooris! saddle, and wit! !is seven Algerian servants e!ind him in stiff file, egan to pran*e deli*ately in slow *urves, *rying out ?$oup, $oup?, in !is t!roaty voi*e, and firing a pistol unsteadily in t!e air# (!e %edu, astonis!ed at t!is performan*e, gaped silently) till Mifle! *ame to us, and said, in !is w!eedling way, ?2ords, pray *all off your servant, for !e *an neit!er s!oot nor ride, and if !e !its someone !e will destroy our good fortune of today#? Mifle! did not &now t!e family pre*edent for !is nervousness# A d el ;ader?s rot!er !eld w!at mig!t well e a world?s re*ord for t!ree su**essive fatal a**idents wit! automati* pistols in t!e *ir*le of !is Damas*us friends# A!? "i+a ,as!a, *!ief lo*al gladiator, !ad said (!ree t!ings are nota ly impossi le- 8ne, t!at (ur&ey win t!is war) one, t!at t!e Mediterranean e*ome *!ampagne) one, t!at . e found in t!e same pla*e wit! Mo!ammed Said, and !e armed?#

'e off-loaded y t!e ruins# %eyond us t!e la*& tents of t!e %eni Sa&!r were li&e a !erd of goats spotting t!e valley# A messenger ade us to Mifle!?s tent# :irst, !owever, Ali !ad an in@uiry to ma&e# At t!e re@uest of t!e %eni Sa&!r, :eisal !ad sent a party of %is!a masons and well-sin&ers to reline t!e lasted well from w!i*! 0asir and . !ad pi*&ed t!e gelignite on our way to A&a a# (!ey !ad een for mont!s in %air and yet reported t!at t!e wor& was not nearly finis!ed# :eisal !ad deputed us to in@uire into t!e reasons for t!e *ostly delay# Ali found t!at t!e %is!a men !ad een living at ease and for*ing t!e Ara s to provide t!em wit! meat and flour# $e *!arged t!em wit! it# (!ey prevari*ated, vainly, for S!erifs !ad a trained >udi*ial instin*t, and Mifle! was preparing a great supper for us# My men w!ispered e3*itedly t!at s!eep !ad een seen to die e!ind !is tent !ig! on t!e &noll a ove t!e graves# So Ali?s >usti*e moved on wings efore t!e food- owls *ould e *arried up# $e !eard and *ondemned t!e la*&s all in a moment, and !ad >udgement infli*ted on t!em y !is slaves inside t!e ruins# (!ey returned, a little self-*ons*ious, &issed !ands in sign of amenity and forgiveness, and a re*on*iled party &nelt toget!er to meat# $oweitat feasts !ad een wet wit! utter) t!e %eni Sa&!r were overflowing# 8ur *lot!es were splas!ed, our mout!s running over, t!e tips of our fingers s*alded wit! its !eat# As t!e s!arpness of !unger was appeased t!e !ands dipped more slowly) ut t!e meal was still far from its >ust end w!en A d el ;ader grunted, rose suddenly to !is feet, wiped !is !ands on a !and&er*!ief, and sat a*& on t!e *arpets y t!e tent wall# 'e !esitated, ut Ali muttered t!e fella!s and t!e wor& *ontinued until all t!e men of our sitting were full, and t!e more frugal of us !ad egun to li*& t!e stiff fat from our smarting fingers# Ali *leared !is t!roat, and we returned to our *arpets w!ile t!e se*ond and t!ird relays round t!e pans were satisfied# 8ne little t!ing, of five or si3, in a filt!y smo*&, sat t!ere stuffing solemnly wit! ot! !ands from first to last, and, at t!e end, wit! swollen elly and fa*e glistening wit! grease, staggered off spee*!lessly !ugging a !uge unpi*&ed ri in triump! to it s reast# .n front of t!e tent t!e dogs *ra*&ed t!e dry ones loudly, and Mifle!?s slave in t!e *orner split t!e s!eep?s s&ull and su*&ed out t!e rains# Meanw!ile, A d el ;ader sat spitting and el*!ing and pi*&ing !is teet!# :inally, !e sent one of !is servants for !is medi*ine *!est, and poured !imself out a draug!t, grum ling t!at toug! meat was ad for !is digestion# $e !ad meant y su*! unmannerliness to ma&e !imself a reputation for grandeur# $is own villagers *ould no dou t e row eaten so, ut t!e Ge n were too near t!e desert to e measured y a purely peasant-measure# Also to-day t!ey !ad efore t!eir eyes t!e *ontrary e3ample of S!erif Ali i n el $ussein, a orn desert-lord# $is fas!ion of rising all at on*e from t!e food was of t!e *entral deserts# 8n fringes of *ultivation, among t!e semi-nomadi*, ea*! guest slipped aside as !e was full# (!e Ana+e! of t!e e3treme nort! set t!e stranger y !imself, and in t!e dar&, t!at !e e not as!amed of !is appetite# All t!ese were modes) ut among t!e *onsidera le *lans t!e manner of t!e S!erifs was generally praised# So poor A d el ;ader was not understood# $e too& !imself off, and we sat in t!e tent-mout!, a ove t!e dar& !ollow, now set out in little *onstellations of tent-fires, seeming to mimi* or refle*t t!e s&y a ove# .t was a *alm nig!t, e3*ept w!en t!e dogs provo&ed one anot!er to *!oral owlings, and as t!ese grew rarer we !eard again t!e @uiet, steady t!udding of t!e !eavy guns preparing assault in ,alestine# (o t!is artillery a**ompaniment we told Mifle! t!at we were a out to raid t!e Deraa distri*t, and would e glad to !ave !im and some fifteen of !is tri esmen wit! us, all on *amels# After our failure wit! t!e $oweitat, we !ad de*ided not to announ*e our plain o >e*t, lest its forlorn *!ara*ter dissuade our partisans# $owever, Mifle! agreed at on*e, apparently wit! !aste and pleasure, promising to ring wit! !im t!e fifteen est men in t!e tri e and !is own son#(!is lad, (ur&i y name, was an old love of Ali i n el $ussein) t!e animal in ea*! *alled to t!e ot!er, and t!ey wandered a out insepara ly, ta&ing pleasure in a tou*! and silen*e# $e was a fair, open-fa*ed oy of per!aps seventeen) not tall, ut road and powerful, wit! a round fre*&led fa*e, upturned nose, and very s!ort upper lip, s!owing !is strong teet!, ut giving !is full mout! rat!er a sul&y loo&, elied y t!e !appy eyes#

'e found !im plu*&y and fait!ful on two *riti*al o**asions# $is good temper atoned for !is !aving *aug!t a little of t!e egging !a it of !is fat!er, w!ose fa*e was eaten up wit! greed# (ur&i?s great an3iety was to e sure t!at !e was re*&oned a man among t!e men, and !e was always loo&ing to do somet!ing old and wonderful w!i*! would let !im flaunt !is *ourage efore t!e girls of !is tri e# $e re>oi*ed e3*eedingly in a new sil& ro e w!i*! . gave !im at dinner, and wal&ed, to display it, twi*e t!roug! t!e tent-village wit!out !is *loa&, railing at t!ose w!o seemed laggard from our meet#

&()PTE" L..I+
Dar& !ad fallen long efore our *aravan left %air, after watering# 'e *!iefs waited longer still w!ile t!e Ge n got ready# Mifle!?s preparations in*luded a visit to 4ssad, t!e supposed an*estor of t!e *lan, in !is ede*&ed tom near Annad?s grave# (!e %eni Sa&!r were already settled enoug! to !ave dressed t!emselves in t!e Semiti* village-superstitions of sa*red pla*es, !oly trees, and funerary s!rines# S!ei&! Mifle! t!oug!t t!e o**asion warranted !is adding anot!er !ead-*ord to t!e ragged *olle*tion looped round 4ssad?s !eadstone, and *!ara*teristi*ally as&ed us to provide t!e offering# . !anded over one of my ri*! red-and-sil&-silver Me**a ornaments, remar&ing t!at t!e virtue lay wit! t!e donor# (!e t!rifty Mifle! pressed upon me one !alfpenny in e3*!ange, t!at !e mig!t plead pur*!ase) and w!en . *ame past a few wee&s later and saw t!at t!e gaud was gone, !e *ursed loudly in my !earing t!e sa*rilege of some godless S!erari, w!o !ad ro ed !is an*estor# (ur&i would !ave told me more# A steep old pat!way too& us out of 'adi %air# 0ear t!e *rest of a ridge we found t!e ot!ers *amped for t!e nig!t round a fire, ut t!ere passed no tal& or *offee-ma&ing for t!is time# 'e lay *lose toget!er, !us!ed and straining t!e ears to *at*! t!e t!ro ing of Allen y?s guns# (!ey spo&e elo@uently- and s!eet lig!tning in t!e west made gun-flas!es for t!em# 0e3t day we passed to t!e left of t!e (!lait!u&!wat, t!e (!ree Sisters? w!ose *lean w!ite pea&s were landmar&s on t!eir lofty waters!ed for a day?s >ourney all a out) and went down t!e soft rolling slopes eyond t!em# (!e e3@uisite 0ovem er morning !ad a softness in it li&e an 4nglis! summer) ut its eauty !ad to e foug!t off# . was spending t!e !alts, and riding t!e stages, in t!e ran&s of t!e %eni Sa&!r tea*!ing my ear t!eir diale*t, and storing in my memory t!e tri al, family or personal notes t!ey let drop# .n t!e little-peopled desert every wors!ipful man &new every ot!er) and instead of oo&s t!ey studied t!eir generation# (o !ave fallen s!ort in su*! &nowledge would !ave meant eing randed eit!er as ill- red, or as a stranger) and strangers were not admitted to familiar inter*ourse or *oun*ils, or *onfiden*es# (!ere was not!ing so wearing, yet not!ing so important for t!e su**ess of my purpose, as t!is *onstant mental gymnasti* of apparent omnis*ien*e at ea*! time of meeting a new tri e# At nig!tfall we *amped in an affluent of 'adi /es!a, y some us!es of faint grey-green foliage, w!i*! pleased our *amels and gave us firewood# (!at nig!t t!e guns were very *lear and loud, per!aps e*ause t!e intervening !ollow of t!e Dead Sea drummed t!e e*!oes up and over our !ig! plateau# (!e Ara s w!ispered ?(!ey are nearer) t!e 4nglis! are advan*ing) God deliver t!e men under t!at rain?# (!ey were t!in&ing *ompassionately of t!e passing (ur&s, so long t!eir wea& oppressors) w!om, for t!eir wea&ness, t!oug! oppressors, t!ey loved more t!an t!e strong foreigner wit! !is lind indis*riminate >usti*e# (!e Ara respe*ted for*e a little- !e respe*ted *raft more, and often !ad it in envia le degree- ut most of all !e respe*ted lunt sin*erity of utteran*e, nearly t!e sole weapon God !ad e3*luded from !is armament# (!e (ur& was all t!ings y turn, and so *ommended !imself to t!e Ara s for su*! w!ile as !e was not *orporately feared# Mu*! lay in t!is distin*tion of t!e *orporate and t!e personal# (!ere were 4nglis!men w!om, individually, t!e Ara s preferred to any (ur&, or foreigner) ut, on t!e strengt! of t!is, to !ave generali+ed and *alled tie Ara s pro-4nglis!, would !ave een a folly# 4a*! stranger made !is own poor ed among t!em# 'e were up early, meaning to pus! t!e long way to Ammari y sunset# 'e *rossed ridge after

*arpeted ridge of sun- urned flints, grown over wit! a tiny saffron plant so rig!t and *lose t!at all t!e view was gold# Safra el /es!a, t!e Su&!ur *alled it# (!e valleys were only in*!es deep, t!eir eds grained li&e moro**o leat!er, in an intri*ate *urving mes!, y innumera le rills of water after t!e last rain# (!e swell of every *urve was a grey reast of sand set !ard wit! mud, sometimes glistening wit! salt-*rystals, and sometimes roug! wit! t!e pro>e*ting rus! of !alf- uried twigs w!i*! !ad *aused it# (!ese tailings of valleys running into Sir!an were always ri*! in gra+ing# '!en t!ere was water in t!eir !ollows t!e tri es *olle*ted, and peopled t!em wit! tent-villages# (!e %eni Sa&!r wit! us !ad so *amped) and, as we *rossed t!e monotonous downs t!ey pointed first to one indistin*tive !ollow wit! !eart! and straig!t gutter-tren*!es and t!en to anot!er saying, (!ere was my tent and t!ere lay $amdan el Sai!# 2oo& at t!e dry stones for my ed-pla*e, and for (arfa?s ne3t it# God !ave mer*y upon !er, s!e died t!e year of sam!, in t!e Snainirat, of a puff-adder#? A out noon a party of trotting *amels appeared over t!e ridge, moving fast, and openly towards us# 2ittle (ur&i *antered out on !is old s!e-*amel, wit! *o*&ed *ar ine a*ross !is t!ig!s, to find w!at t!ey meant# ?$a,? *ried Mifle! to me w!ile t!ey were still a mile off, ?t!at is :a!ad, on !is S!aara, in t!e front# (!ese are our &insmen,? and sure enoug! t!ey were# :a!ad and Ad!u , *!ief war-leaders of t!e Ge n, !ad een *amped west of t!e railway y Gi+a, w!en a Gomani *ame in wit! news of our mar*!# (!ey !ad saddled at on*e, and y !ard riding *aug!t us only !alf-way on t!e road# :a!ad, in *ourteous fas!ion, *!ided me gently for presuming to ride t!eir distri*t on an adventure w!ile !is fat!er?s sons lay in t!eir tent# :a!ad was a melan*!oly, soft-voi*ed, little-spo&en man of per!aps t!irty, wit! a w!ite fa*e, trim eard and tragi* eyes# $is young rot!er Ad!u was taller and stronger, yet not a ove middle !eig!t# 9nli&e :a!ad, !e was a*tive, noisy, un*out!-loo&ing) wit! a snu nose, !airless oy?s fa*e and gleaming green eyes fli*&ering !ungrily from o >e*t to o >e*t# $is *ommonness was pointed y !is dis!evelled !air and dirty *lot!es# :a!ad was neater, ut still very plainly dressed, and t!e pair, on t!eir s!aggy !ome- red *amels, loo&ed as little li&e s!ei&!s of t!eir reputation as *an e *on*eived# $owever, t!ey were famous fig!ters# At Ammari a !ig! *old nig!t wind was stirring t!e as!en dust of t!e salt-ground a out t!e wells into a !a+e, w!i*! gritted in our teet! li&e t!e stale reat! of an eruption) and we were ungrateful for t!e water# .t was on t!e surfa*e, li&e so mu*! of Sir!an, ut most of t!e pools were too itter to drin&# 8ne nota le one, !owever, *alled %ir el 4mir was t!oug!t very good y *ontrast# .t lay in a little floor of are limestone among sand-!ummo*&s# (!e water Bopa@ue and tasting of mi3ed rine and ammoniaC was >ust elow t!e level of t!e ro*&-sla , in a stone at! wit! ragged under*ut lips# .ts dept! Daud proved, y !urling :arra> fully-dressed into it# $e san& out of view in its yellowness, and afterwards rose @uietly to t!e surfa*e under t!e ro*&edge w!ere !e *ould not e seen in t!e dus&# Daud waited a strained minute) ut w!en !is vi*tim did not appear tore off !is *loa& and plunged after--to find !im smiling under t!e over!anging ledge# ,earl-diving in t!e gulf !ad made t!em li&e fis!es in t!e water# (!ey were dragged out, and t!en !ad a wild struggle in t!e sand eside t!e water-!ole# 4a*! sustained !urt, and t!ey returned to my fire dripping wet, in rags, leeding, wit! t!eir !air and fa*es, legs, arms and odies *overed wit! mud and t!orns, more li&e t!e devils of a w!irlwind t!an t!eir usual suave deli*ate presen*es# (!ey said t!ey !ad een dan*ing, and !ad tripped over a us!) it would e li&e my generosity to ma&e t!em a gift of new *lot!es# . lasted t!eir !opes, and sent t!em off to repair damages# My odyguard, more espe*ially t!e Ageyl in it, were y nature foppis!, and spent t!eir wages on dress or ornaments, and mu*! time in raiding t!eir plaits of s!ining !air# %utter gave it t!e polis!) and to &eep down t!e vermin t!ey fre@uently dragged t!e s*alp wit! a fine-toot!ed *om , and sprin&led it wit! *amel-staling# A German do*tor at %eers!e a, in t!eir (ur&is! days Bt!ese were t!e men w!o one misty dawn rus!ed our 1eomanry in Sinai and wiped out a postC !ad taug!t t!em to e *lean y prisoning t!e lousy ones in army latrines until t!ey !ad swallowed t!eir li*e#

(!e wind e*ame faint at dawn, and we moved forward for A+ra&, !alf a mar*! a!ead# $ardly, !owever, were we dear of t!e drifts eside t!e wells w!en t!ere was an alarm# Mounted men !ad een seen in t!e rus!wood# (!is *ountry was a torn-tiddler?s ground of raiding parties# 'e drew toget!er in t!e est pla*e and !alted# (!e .ndian se*tion *!ose a tiny ridge !a*&ed a out wit! narrow ruts of water-*!annels# (!ey *ou*!ed *amels in t!e !ollow e!ind, and !ad t!eir guns mounted in due order in a moment# Ali and A d el ;ader t!rew out t!eir great *rimson anners in t!e intermittent ree+e# 8ur s&irmis!ers !eaded y A!med and Awad, ran out to rig!t and left, and long s!ots were e3*!anged# All of it ended suddenly# (!e enemy ro&e *over and mar*!ed in line towards us, waving t!eir *loa&s and sleeves in t!e air and *!anting t!eir war-mar*! of wel*ome# (!ey were t!e fig!ting men of t!e Ser!an tri e on t!eir way to swear allegian*e to :eisal# '!en t!ey !eard our news t!ey turned a*& wit! us, re>oi*ing to e spared t!e road, for t!is tri e was not ordinarily warli&e or nomadi*# (!ey made some little pomp over our >oint entry to t!eir tents at Ain el %eid!a, a few miles east of A+ra&, w!ere t!e w!ole tri e was gat!ered) and our re*eption was loud, e*ause t!ere !ad een fear and lamentation among t!e women t!at morning w!en t!ey saw t!eir men mar*! away on t!e !a+ard of re ellion# $owever, !ere t!ey were returning t!e same day, wit! a S!erif of t!eir own, and Ara anners, and ma*!ine-guns, mar*!ing a ragged !undred men a reast, and singing as merrily as w!en t!ey started out# My eyes were upon a nota le red *amel, per!aps a seven-year-old, under a Sir!ani in t!e se*ond line# (!e tall east would not e put upon, ut wit! a long, swinging pa*e, of w!i*! t!ere was no e@ual in t!e *rowd of us, forged to t!e front, and &ept t!ere# A!med slipped off to get a*@uainted wit! !er owner# .n *amp t!e *!ief men distri uted our party among t!eir tents for t!e privilege of entertainment# Ali, A d el ;ader, 'ood and myself were ta&en in y Mteir, t!e paramount s!ei&! of t!e tri e, an old, toot!less, friendly t!ing, w!ose loose >aw sagged in !is supporting !and all t!e w!ile !e tal&ed# $e gave us a fussy greeting and a undant !ospitality of seet!ed s!eep and read# 'ood and A d el ;ader were, per!aps, a little s@ueamis!, for t!e Sera!in seemed primitive in food-dis*ipline, and at t!e *ommon owl t!ere was more splas!ing and spluttering t!an was proper in t!e est tents# Afterwards, y *onstraint of Mteir?s urgen*y, we lay on !is rugs for t!e one nig!t# "ound our fres! odies, for t!e *!ange of food, *olle*ted all su*! lo*al ti*&s, fleas and li*e as were si*& of a diet of unmitigated Ser!an# (!eir delig!t made t!em so ravenous t!at wit! t!e est will in t!e world . *ould not go on feasting t!em# 0or apparently *ould Ali) for !e, too, sat up and said t!at !e felt wa&eful# So we roused S!ei&! Mteir, and sent for Mifle! i n %ani, a young, a*tive man, a**ustomed to *ommand t!eir attles# (o t!em we e3plained :eisal?s needs, and our plan to relieve !im# Gravely t!ey !eard us# (!e western ridge, t!ey said, was @uite impossi le# (!e (ur&s !ad >ust filled its *ountry wit! !undreds of military wood-*utters# 0o !ostile party *ould slip t!roug! undete*ted# (!ey professed great suspi*ion of t!e Mooris! villages, and of A d el ;ader# 0ot!ing would persuade t!em to visit t!e one under t!e guidan*e of t!e ot!er# :or (ell el S!e!a , t!e nearest ridge, t!ey feared lest t!e villagers, t!eir inveterate enemies, atta*& t!em in t!e rear# Also if it rained t!e *amels would e una le to trot a*& a*ross t!e muddy plains y "emt!e, and t!e w!ole party would e *ut off and &illed# 'e were now in deep trou le# (!e Sera!in were our last resour*e, and if t!ey refused to *ome wit! us we s!ould e una le to *arry out Allen y?s pro>e*t y t!e appointed time# A**ordingly Ali *olle*ted a out our little fire more of t!e etter men of t!e tri e, and fortified t!e part of *ourage y ringing in :a!ad, and Mifle!, and Ad!u # %efore t!em we egan to *om at in words t!is *rude pruden*e of t!e Sera!in, w!i*! seemed all t!e more s!ameful to us after our long so>ourn in t!e *larifying wilderness# 'e put it to t!em, not a stra*tedly, ut *on*retely, for t!eir *ase, !ow life in mass was sensual only, to e lived and loved in its e3tremity# (!ere *ould e no rest-!ouses for revolt, no dividend of >oy paid out# .ts spirit was a**retive, to endure as far as t!e senses would endure, and to use ea*! su*! advan*e as ase for furt!er adventure, deeper privation, s!arper pain# Sense *ould not rea*! a*& or forward# A felt emotion was a *on@uered emotion, an e3perien*e gone dead, w!i*! we uried y e3pressing it#

(o e of t!e desert was, as t!ey &new, a doom to wage unending attle wit! an enemy w!o was not of t!e world, nor life, nor anyt!ing, ut !ope itself) and failure seemed God?s freedom to man&ind# 'e mig!t only e3er*ise t!is our freedom y not doing w!at it lay wit!in our power to do, for t!en life would elong to us, and we s!ould !ave mastered it y !olding it *!eap# Deat! would seem est of all our wor&s, t!e last free loyalty wit!in our grasp, our final leisure- and of t!ese two poles, deat! and life, or, less finally, leisure and su sisten*e, we s!ould s!un su sisten*e Bw!i*! was t!e stuff of lifeC in all save its faintest degree, and *ling *lose to leisure# (!ere y we would serve to promote t!e notdoing rat!er t!an t!e doing# Some men, t!ere mig!t e, un*reative) w!ose leisure was arren) ut t!e a*tivity of t!ese would !ave een material only# (o ring fort! immaterial t!ings, t!ings *reative, parta&ing of spirit, not of fles!, we must e >ealous of spending time or trou le upon p!ysi*al demands, sin*e in most men t!e soul grew aged long efore t!e ody# Man&ind !ad een no gainer y its drudges# (!ere *ould e no !onour in a sure su**ess, ut mu*! mig!t e wrested from a sure defeat# 8mnipoten*e and t!e .nfinite were our two wort!iest foemen, indeed t!e only ones for a full man to meet, t!ey eing monsters of !is own spirit?s ma&ing) and t!e stoutest enemies were always of t!e !ouse!old# .n fig!ting 8mnipoten*e, !onour was proudly to t!row away t!e poor resour*es t!at we !ad, and dare $im empty-!anded) to e eaten, not merely y more mind, ut y its advantage of etter tools# (o t!e *lear-sig!ted, failure was t!e only goal# 'e must elieve, t!roug! and t!roug!, t!at t!ere was no vi*tory, e3*ept to go down into deat! fig!ting and *rying for failure itself, *alling in e3*ess of despair to 8mnipoten*e to stri&e !arder, t!at y $is very stri&ing $e mig!t temper our tortured selves into t!e weapon of $is own ruin# (!is was a !alting, !alf-*o!erent spee*!, stru*& out desperately, moment y moment, in our e3treme need, upon t!e anvil of t!ose w!ite minds round t!e dying fire) and !ardly its sense remained wit! me afterwards) for on*e my pi*ture-ma&ing memory forgot its trade and only felt t!e slow !um ling of t!e Sera!in, t!e nig!t-@uiet in w!i*! t!eir worldliness faded, and at last t!eir flas!ing eagerness to ride wit! us w!atever t!e ourne# %efore daylig!t we *alled old A d el ;ader, and, ta&ing !im aside among t!e sandy t!i*&ets, s*reamed into !is dense ear t!at t!e Sera!in would start wit! us, under !is auspi*es, for 'adi ;!alid, after sunrise# $e grunted t!at it was well- and we said to one anot!er t!at never, if life and opportunity were prolonged for us, would we ta&e a deaf man for a *onspirator again#

&()PTE" L..+
43!austed, we lay down a moment, ut were astir again very early to review t!e *amel-men of t!e Sir!an# (!ey made a wild and ragged s!ow, das!ing past, ut we t!oug!t t!em loose riders, and t!ey lustered too mu*! to e @uite *onvin*ing# .t was a pity t!ey !ad no real leader# Mteir was too old for servi*e, and i n %ani was an indistin*t man, am itious rat!er as a politi*ian t!an as a fig!ter# $owever, t!ey were t!e for*e we !ad, so t!ere was an end to it, and at t!ree in t!e afternoon we mounted for A+ra&, sin*e anot!er nig!t in t!e tent would !ave left us pi*&ed to dry ones# A d el ;ader and !is servants mounted t!eir mares, as sign t!at t!e fig!ting line was near# (!ey rode >ust e!ind us# .t was to e Ali?s first view of A+ra&, and we !urried up t!e stony ridge in !ig! e3*itement, tal&ing of t!e wars and songs and passions of t!e early s!ep!erd &ings, wit! names li&e musi*, w!o !ad loved t!is pla*e) and of t!e "oman legionaries w!o languis!ed !ere as garrison in yet earlier times# (!en t!e lue fort on its ro*& a ove t!e rustling palms, wit! t!e fres! meadows and s!ining springs of water, ro&e on our sig!t# 8f A+ra&, as of "umm, one said ?numen inest?# %ot! were magi*ally !aunted- ut w!ereas "umm was vast and e*!oing and God-li&e, A+ra&?s unfat!oma le silen*e was steeped in &nowledge of wandering poets, *!ampions, lost &ingdoms, all t!e *rime and *!ivalry and dead magnifi*en*e of $ira and G!assan# 4a*! stone or lade of it was radiant wit! !alf-memory of t!e luminous, sil&y 4den, w!i*! !ad passed so long ago# At last A!? s!oo& !is rein, and !is *amel pi*&ed !er *areful way down t!e lava flow to t!e ri*! turf

e!ind t!e springs# 8ur pu*&ered eyes opened wide wit! relief t!at t!e itterness of many wee&s was gone out of t!e refle*ted sunlig!t# A!? s*reamed ?Grass?, and flung !imself off t!e saddle to t!e ground on !ands and feet, !is fa*e owed down among t!e !ars! stems w!i*! seemed so &indly in t!e desert# $e leaped up, flus!ed, wit! !is $arit! war-*ry, tore !is !ead-*lot! off, and ra*ed along t!e mars!, ounding over t!e red *!annels w!ere water *lotted among t!e reeds# $is w!ite feet flas!ed eneat! t!e tossed folds of !is *as!mere ro es# 'e in t!e 'est seldom e3perien*ed t!at added eauty w!en t!e ody was seen lig!tly poised on are feet) w!en t!e r!yt!m and gra*e of movement e*ame visi le, wit! t!e play of mus*le and sinew pointing t!e me*!anism of ea*! stride and t!e alan*e of repose# '!en we turned again to usiness, t!ere was no A d el ;ader# 'e loo&ed for !im in t!e *astle, in t!e palm-garden, over y t!e spring# 4ventually we sent our men away to sear*!, and t!ey *ame a*& wit! Ara s, w!o told us t!at from >ust after t!e start !e !ad ridden off nort!ward t!roug! t!e fla&y !illo*&s, towards /e el Druse# (!e ran& and file did not &now our plans, !ated !im, and !ad een glad to see !im go- ut it was ad news for us# 8f our t!ree alternatives, 9m ;eis !ad een a andoned- wit!out A d el ;ader, 'adi ;!alid was impossi le- t!is meant t!at we must ne*essarily attempt t!e ridge at (ell el S!e!a # (o rea*! it we !ad to *ross t!e open land etween "emt!e and Deraa# A d el ;ader was gone up to t!e enemy, wit! information of our plans and strengt!# (!e (ur&s, if t!ey too& t!e most reasona le pre*autions, would trap us at t!e ridge# 'e too& *oun*il wit! :a!ad and de*ided to pus! on none t!e less, trusting to t!e usual in*ompeten*e of our enemy# .t was not a *onfident de*ision# '!ile we too& it t!e suns!ine seemed less lam ent, and A+ra& not so aloof from fear# 0e3t morning we wound pensively along a flinty valley and over a ridge into 'adi el $arit!, w!ose green *ourse !ad a si*&ening li&eness to some lands at !ome# A!? re>oi*ed to see a ri*! pasture-valley earing !is family name, and was as glad as our *amels w!en we found limpid pools of last wee&?s rain-water in !ollows among t!e us!es# 'e stopped and used t!e dis*overy for lun*!, ma&ing a long !alt# Ad!u went off wit! A!med and Awad to loo& for ga+elle# $e *ame a*& wit! t!ree# So we stopped yet longer and made a se*ond lun*!, li&e a feast, of meat go ets roasted on ramrods till t!e outside was la*& as *oal, w!ile t!e !eart remained >ui*ily sweet# So->ourners in t!e desert loved its a**idental ounty) also on t!is trip a relu*tan*e weig!ed down our daily mar*!ing, to ma&e us glad of ea*! delay# 9n!appily my rest time was spoiled y a ed of >usti*e# (!e feud etween A!med and Awad ro&e out during t!is ga+elle *!ase into a duel# Awad s!ot off A!med?s !ead-rope) A!med !oled Awad?s *loa&# . disarmed t!em and gave loud order t!at t!e rig!t t!um and forefinger of ea*! e *ut off# (!e terror of t!is drove t!em into an instant, violent and pu li* &issing of pea*e# A little later all my men went *apital ail t!at t!e trou le !ad ended# . referred t!e *ase to Ali i n el $ussein, w!o set t!em at li erty on pro ation, after sealing t!eir promise wit! t!e an*ient and *urious nomad penan*e of stri&ing t!e !ead s!arply wit! t!e edge of a weig!ty dagger again and again till t!e issuing lood !ad run down to t!e waist elt# .t *aused painful ut not dangerous s*alp wounds, w!ose a*!e at first and w!ose s*ars later were supposed to remind t!e would- e defaulter of t!e ond !e !ad given# 'e pus!ed on again for miles over perfe*t going, t!roug! ri*! *ountry for t!e *amels, till at A u Sawana we found a flinty !ollow, rim-full of deli*iously *lear rain-water in a narrow *!annel two feet deep, and per!aps ten feet wide, ut !alf a mile long# (!is would serve as starting point for our ridge-raid# (o e sure of its safety, we rode a few yards furt!er, to t!e top of a stony &noll) and t!ere found ourselves loo&ing down upon a retreating party of Cir*assian !orsemen, sent out y t!e (ur&s to report if t!e waters were o**upied# (!ey !ad missed us, to our mutual enefit, y five minutes# 0e3t morning we filled our water-s&ins, sin*e we s!ould find not!ing to drin& etween !ere and t!e ridge) and t!en mar*!ed leisurely until t!e desert ended in a t!ree-foot depression at t!e edge of a *lean plain, w!i*! e3tended flatly to t!e metals of t!e railway some miles off# 'e !alted for dus& to ma&e its *rossing possi le# 8ur plan was to slip over se*retly, and !ide in t!e furt!er foot!ills, elow Deraa# .n t!e spring t!ese !ills were full of gra+ing s!eep, for t!e rain *loa&ed t!eir low sides in new

grass and flowers# 'it! t!e *oming of summer t!ey dried, and e*ame deserted save for *!an*e travellers on o s*ure errands# 'e mig!t fairly *al*ulate on ly ing in t!eir folds for a day undistur ed# 'e made our !alt anot!er opportunity of food, for we were re*&lessly eating all we *ould as often as we !ad t!e *!an*e# .t lig!tened our stores, and &ept us from t!in&ing- ut even wit! t!is !elp t!e day was very long# At last sunset *ame# (!e plain s!ivered on*e, as t!e dar&ness, w!i*! for an !our !ad een gat!ering among t!e fa*ing !ills, flowed slowly out and drowned it# 'e mounted# (wo !ours later after a @ui*& mar*! over gravel, :a!ad and myself, out s*outing a!ead, *ame to t!e railway) and wit!out diffi*ulty found a stony pla*e w!ere our *aravan would ma&e no signs of passage# (!e (ur&is! rail-guards were *learly at t!eir ease, w!i*! meant t!at A d el ;ader !ad not yet *aused a pani* y w!at news !e roug!t# 'e rode t!e ot!er side of t!e line for !alf an !our, and t!en dipped into a very slig!t ro*&y depression full of su**ulent plants# (!is was G!adir el A yad!, re*ommended y Mifle! as our am us!# 'e too& !is surprising word t!at we were in *over, and lay down among or alongside our loaded easts for a s!ort sleep# Dawn would s!ow us !ow far we were safe and !idden# As day was rea&ing, :a!ad led me to t!e edge of our pit, some fifteen feet a ove, and from it we loo&ed straig!t a*ross a slowly-dropping meadow to t!e railway, w!i*! seemed nearly wit!in s!ot# .t was most in*onveniently *lose, ut t!e Su&!ur &new no etter pla*e# 'e !ad to stand-to all t!e day# 4a*! time somet!ing was reported, our men ran to loo& at it, and t!e low an& would grow a serried frie+e of !uman !eads# Also, t!e gra+ing *amels re@uired many guards to &eep t!em from straying into view# '!enever a patrol passed we !ad to e very gentle in *ontrolling t!e easts, sin*e if one of t!em !ad roared or ru*&led it would !ave drawn t!e enemy# 1esterday !ad een long- to-day was longer- we *ould not feed, as our water !ad to e !us anded wit! >ealous *are against t!e s*ar*ity of to-morrow# (!e very &nowledge made us t!irsty# Ali and . wor&ed at t!e last arrangements for our ride# 'e were penned !ere until sunset) and must rea*! (ell el S!e!a , low up t!e ridge, and get a*& east of t!e railway y dawn# (!is meant a ride of at least eig!ty miles in t!e t!irteen !ours of dar&ness, wit! an ela orate demolition t!rown in# Su*! a performan*e was eyond t!e *apa*ity of most of t!e .ndians# (!ey were not good riders, and !ad ro&en up t!eir *amels in t!e mar*! from A&a a# An Ara y saving !is east, *ould ring it !ome in fair *ondition after !ard wor&# (!e .ndians !ad done t!eir est) ut t!e dis*ipline of t!eir *avalry training !ad tired out t!em and t!e animals in our easy stages# So we pi*&ed out t!e si3 est riders and put t!em on t!e si3 est *amels, wit! $assan S!a!, t!eir offi*er and greatest-!earted man, to lead t!em# $e de*ided t!at t!is little party would e fittest armed wit! >ust one <i*&ers gun# .t was a very serious redu*tion of our offensive power# (!e more . loo&ed at it, t!e less fortunate seemed t!e development of t!is 1armu& plan of ours# (!e %eni Sa&!r were fig!ting men) ut we distrusted t!e Sera!in# So A!? and . de*ided to ma&e t!e %eni Sa&!r, under :a!ad, our storming party# 'e would leave some Sera!in to guard t!e *amels w!ile t!e ot!ers *arried t!e lasting gelatine in our dismounted *!arge upon t!e ridge# (o suit t!e !urried *arriage down steep !ill-sides in t!e dar& we *!anged t!e e3plosive loads into t!irty-pound lumps, w!i*! were put, for visi ility, ea*! lump into its own w!ite ag# 'ood undertoo& to repa*& t!e gelatine, and s!ared t!e rare !eada*!e all got from !andling it# (!is !elped pass t!e time# My odyguard !ad to e *arefully distri uted# 8ne good rider was told off to ea*! of t!e less e3pert lo*al men, w!ose virtue was t!at t!ey &new t!e *ountry- t!e pairs so made were atta*!ed to one or ot!er of my foreign lia ilities, wit! instru*tions to &eep *lose to !im all nig!t# Ali i n el $ussein too& si3 of !is servants, and t!e party was *ompleted y twenty %eni Sa&!r and forty Sera!in# 'e left t!e lame and wea& *amels e!ind at A yad! in *!arge of t!e alan*e of our men, wit! instru*tions to get a*& to A u Sawana efore dawn to-morrow and wait t!ere for our news# (wo of my men developed sudden illnesses, w!i*! made t!em feel una le to ride wit! us# . e3*used t!em for t!e nig!t, and afterward from all duties w!atsoever#

&()PTE" L..+I
/ust at sunset we said good- ye to t!em, and went off up our valley, feeling misera ly disin*lined to go on at all# Dar&ness gat!ered as we rode over t!e first ridge and turned west, for t!e a andoned pilgrim road, w!ose ruts would e our est guide# 'e were stum ling down t!e irregular !ill-side, w!en t!e men in front suddenly das!ed forward# 'e followed and found t!em surrounding a terrified pedlar, wit! two wives and two don&eys laden wit! raisins, flour and *loa&s# (!ey !ad een going to Mafra&, t!e station >ust e!ind us# (!is was aw&ward) and in t!e end we told t!em to *amp, and left a Sir!ani to see t!ey did not stir- !e was to release t!em at dawn, and es*ape over t!e line to A u Sawana# 'e went plodding a*ross *ountry in t!e now a solute dar& till we saw t!e gleam of t!e w!ite furrows of t!e pilgrim road# .t was t!e same road along w!i*! t!e Ara s !ad ridden wit! me on my first nig!t in Ara ia out y "a eg!# Sin*e t!en in twelve mont!s we !ad foug!t up it for some twelve !undred &ilometres, past Medina and $edia, Di+ad, Mudowwara and Maan# (!ere remained little to its !ead in Damas*us w!ere our armed pilgrimage s!ould end# %ut we were appre!ensive of to-nig!t- our nerves !ad een s!a&en y t!e flig!t of A d el ;ader, t!e solitary traitor of our e3perien*e# $ad we *al*ulated fairly we s!ould !ave &nown t!at we !ad a *!an*e in spite of !im- yet a dispassionate >udgement lay not in our mood, and we t!oug!t !alfdespairingly !ow t!e Ara "evolt would never perform its last stage, ut would remain one more e3ample of t!e *aravans w!i*! started out ardently for a *loud-goal, and died man y man in t!e wilderness wit!out t!e tarnis! of a*!ievement# Some s!ep!erd or ot!er s*attered t!ese t!oug!ts y firing !is rifle at our *aravan, seen y !im approa*!ing silently and indistin*tly in t!e dar&# $e missed widely, ut egan to *ry out in e3tremity of terror and, as !e fled, to pour s!ot after s!ot into t!e rown of us# Mifle! el Gomaan, w!o was guiding, swerved violently, and in a lind trot *arried our plunging line down a slope, over a rea&ne*& ottom, and round t!e s!oulder of a !ill# (!ere we !ad pea*eful un ro&en nig!t on*e more, and swung forward in fair order under t!e stars# (!e ne3t alarm was A# ar&ing dog on t!e left, and t!en a *amel une3pe*tedly loomed up in our tra*&# .t was, !owever, a stray, and riderless# 'e moved on again# Mifle! made me ride wit! !im, *alling me ?Ara ? t!at my &nown name mig!t not etray me to strangers in t!e la*&ness# 'e were *oming down into a very t!i*& !ollow w!en we smelt as!es, and t!e dus&y figure of a woman leaped from a us! eside t!e tra*& and rus!ed s!rie&ing out of sig!t# S!e may !ave een a gipsy, for not!ing followed# 'e *ame to a !ill# At t!e top was a village w!i*! la+ed at us w!ile we were yet distant# Mifle! ore off to t!e rig!t over a road stret*! of ploug!) we *lim ed it slowly, wit! *rea&ing saddles# At t!e edge of t!e *rest we !alted# Away to t!e nort! elow our level were some rilliant *lusters of lig!ts# (!ese were t!e flares of Deraa station, lit for army traffi*- and we felt somet!ing reassuring per!aps, ut also a little latant in t!is (ur&is! disregard for us# E.t was our revenge to ma&e it t!en-last illumination- Deraa was o s*ured from t!e morrow for a w!ole year until it fell#F .n a *lose group we rode to t!e left along t!e summit and down a long valley into t!e plain of "emt!e, from w!i*! village an o**asional red spar& glowed out, in t!e dar&ness to t!e nort!-west# (!e going e*ame flat) ut it was land !alf-ploug!ed, and very soft wit! a la yrint! of *ony- urrows, so t!at our plunging *amels san& fetlo*&-in and la oured# 0one t!e less, we !ad to put on speed, for t!e in*idents and roug!ness of t!e way !ad made us late# Mifle! urged !is relu*tant *amel into a trot# . was etter mounted t!an most, on t!e red *amel w!i*! !ad led our pro*ession into %eid!a# S!e was a long, ra&ing east, wit! a !uge piston-stride very !ard to suffer- pounding, yet not fully me*!ani*al, e*ause t!ere was *ourage in t!e persistent effort w!i*! *arried !er sailing to t!e !ead of t!e line# (!ere, all *ompetitors outstripped, !er am ition died into a solid step, longer t!an normal y some in*!es, ut li&e any ot!er animal?s, e3*ept t!at it gave a *onfident feeling of immense reserves in strengt! and enduran*e# . rode a*& down t!e ran&s and told t!em to press forward faster# (!e

.ndians, riding wooden, li&e !orsemen, did t!eir est, as did most of our num er) ut t!e ground was so ad t!at t!e greatest efforts were not very fruitful, and as !ours went on first one and t!en anot!er rider dropped e!ind# (!ereupon . *!ose t!e rear position, wit! Ali i n el $ussein w!o was riding a rare old ra*ing *amel# S!e may !ave een fourteen years old, ut never flagged nor >ogged t!e w!ole nig!t# 'it! !er !ead low s!e s!uffled along in t!e @ui*&, !ang-&need 0e>d pa*e w!i*! was so easy for t!e rider# 8ur speed and *amel-sti*&s made life misera le for t!e last men and *amels# Soon after nine o?*lo*& we left t!e ploug!# (!e going s!ould !ave improved- ut it egan to dri++le, and t!e ri*! surfa*e of t!e land grew slippery# A Sir!ani *amel fell# .ts rider !ad it up in a moment and trotted forward# 8ne of t!e %eni Sa&!r *ame down# $e also was un!urt, and remounted !astily# (!en we found one of Ali?s servants standing y !is !alted *amel# A!? !issed !im on, and w!en t!e fellow mum led an e3*use *ut !im savagely a*ross t!e !ead wit! !is *ane# (!e terrified *amel plunged forward, and t!e slave, snat*!ing at t!e !inder girt!, was a le to swing !imself into t!e saddle# Ali pursued !im wit! a rain of lows# Mustafa, my man, an ine3perien*ed rider, fell off twi*e# Awad, !is ran&-man, ea*! time *aug!t !is !alter, and !ad !elped !im up efore we overtoo& t!em# (!e rain stopped, and we went faster# Down!ill, now# Suddenly Mifle!, rising in !is saddle, slas!ed at t!e air over!ead# A s!arp metalli* *onta*t from t!e nig!t s!owed we were under t!e telegrap! line to Me+eri # (!en t!e grey !ori+on efore us went more distant# 'e seemed to e riding on t!e *am er of an ar* of land, wit! a growing dar&ness at ea*! side and in front# (!ere *ame to our ears a faint sig!ing, li&e wind among trees very far away, ut *ontinuous and slowly in*reasing# (!is must e from t!e great waterfall elow (ell el S!e!a , and we pressed forward *onfidently# A few minutes later Mifle! pulled up !is *amel and eat !er ne*& very gently till s!e san& silently on !er &nees# $e t!rew !imself off, w!ile we reined up eside !im on t!is grassy platform y a tum led *airn# %efore us from a lip of la*&ness rose very loudly t!e rus!ing of t!e river w!i*! !ad een long dinning our ears# .t was t!e edge of t!e 1armu& gorge, and t!e ridge lay >ust under us to t!e rig!t# 'e !elped down t!e .ndians from t!eir urdened *amels, t!at no sound etray us to listening ears) t!en mustered, w!ispering, on t!e *lammy grass# (!e moon was not yet over $ermon, ut t!e nig!t was only !alf-dar& in t!e promise of its dawn, wit! wild rags of tattered *louds driving a*ross a livid s&y# . served out t!e e3plosives to t!e fifteen porters, and we started# (!e %eni Sa&!r under Ad!u san& into t!e dar& slopes efore us to s*out t!e way# (!e rainstorm !ad made t!e steep !ill trea*!erous, and only y driving our are toes s!arply into t!e soil *ould we &eep a sure foot!old# (wo or t!ree men fell !eavily# '!en we were in t!e stiffest part, w!ere ro*&s *ropped out ro&enly from t!e fa*e, a new noise was added to t!e roaring water as a train *lan&ed slowly up from Galilee, t!e flanges of its w!eels s*reaming on t!e *urves and t!e steam of its engine panting out of t!e !idden dept!s of t!e ravine in w!ite g!ostly reat!s# (!e Sera!in !ung a*&# 'ood drove t!em after us# :a!ad and . leaped to t!e rig!t, and in t!e lig!t of t!e furna*e-flame saw open tru*&s in w!i*! were men in &!a&i, per!aps prisoners going up to Asia Minor# A little fart!er) and at last, elow our feet, we saw a somet!ing la*&er in t!e pre*ipitous la*&ness of t!e valley, and at its ot!er end a spe*& of fli*&ering lig!t# 'e !alted to e3amine it wit! glasses# .t was t!e ridge, seen from t!is !eig!t in plan, wit! a guard-tent pit*!ed under t!e s!adowy village-*rested wall of t!e opposite an&# 4veryt!ing was @uiet, e3*ept t!e river) everyt!ing was motionless, e3*ept t!e dan*ing flame outside t!e tent# 'ood, w!o was only to *ome down if . were !it, got t!e .ndians ready to spray t!e guard-tent if affairs e*ame general) w!ile Ali, :a!ad, Mifle! and t!e rest of us, wit! %eni Sa&!r and e3plosive porters, *rept on till we found t!e old *onstru*tion pat! to t!e near a utment# 'e stole along t!is in single file, our rown *loa&s and soiled *lot!es lending perfe*tly wit! t!e limestone a ove us, and t!e dept!s elow, until we rea*!ed t!e metals >ust efore t!ey *urved to t!e ridge# (!ere t!e *rowd !alted, and . *rawled on wit! :a!ad# 'e rea*!ed t!e na&ed a utment, and drew ourselves forward on our fa*es in t!e s!adow of its rails till

we *ould nearly tou*! t!e grey s&eleton of under!ung girders, and see t!e single sentry leaning against t!e ot!er a utment, si3ty yards a*ross t!e gulf# '!ilst we wat*!ed, !e egan to move slowly up and down, up and down, efore !is fire, wit!out ever setting foot on t!e di++y ridge# . lay staring at !im fas*inated, as if planless and !elpless, w!ile :a!ad s!uffled a*& y t!e a utment wall w!ere it sprang *lear of t!e !illside# (!is was no good, for . wanted to atta*& t!e girders t!emselves) so . *rept away to ring t!e gelatine earers# %efore . rea*!ed t!em t!ere was t!e loud *latter of a dropped rifle and a s*ram ling fall from up t!e an&# (!e sentry started and stared up at t!e noise# $e saw, !ig! up, in t!e +one of lig!t wit! w!i*! t!e rising moon slowly made eautiful t!e gorge, t!e ma*!ine-gunners *lim ing down to a new position in t!e re*eding s!adow# $e *!allenged loudly, t!en lifted !is rifle and fired, w!ile yelling t!e guard out# .nstantly all was *omplete *onfusion# (!e invisi le %eni Sa&!r, *rou*!ed along t!e narrow pat! a ove our !eads, la+ed a*& at random# (!e guard rus!ed into tren*!es, and opened rapid fire at our flas!es# (!e .ndians, *aug!t moving, *ould not get t!eir <i*&ers in a*tion to riddle t!e tent efore it was empty# :iring e*ame general# (!e volleys of t!e (ur&is! rifles, e*!oing in t!e narrow pla*e, were dou led y t!e impa*t of t!eir ullets against t!e ro*&s e!ind our party# (!e Sera!in porters !ad learned from my odyguard t!at gelatine would go off if !it# So w!en s!ots spattered a out t!em t!ey dumped t!e sa*&s over t!e edge and fled# Ali leaped down to :a!ad and me, w!ere we stood on t!e o s*ure a utment unper*eived, ut wit! empty !ands, and told us t!at t!e e3plosives were now somew!ere in t!e deep ed of t!e ravine# .t was !opeless to t!in& of re*overing t!em, wit! su*! !ell let loose, so we s*ampered, wit!out a**ident, up t!e !ill-pat! t!roug! t!e (ur&is! fire, reat!lessly to t!e top# (!ere we met t!e disgusted 'ood and t!e .ndians, and told t!em it was all over# 'e !astened a*& to t!e *airn w!ere t!e Sera!in were s*ram ling on t!eir *amels# 'e *opied t!em as soon as mig!t e, and trotted off at speed, w!ile t!e (ur&s were yet rattling away in t!e ottom of t!e valley# (urra, t!e nearest village, !eard t!e *lamour and >oined in# 8t!er villages awo&e, and lig!ts egan to spar&le everyw!erea*ross t!e plain# 8ur rus! over-ran a party of peasants returning from Deraa# (!e Sera!in, sore at t!e part t!ey !ad played Bor at w!at . said in t!e !eat of running awayC were loo&ing for trou le, and ro ed t!em are# (!e vi*tims das!ed off t!roug! t!e moonlig!t wit! t!eir women, raising t!e ear-pier*ing Ara *all for !elp# "emt!e !eard t!em# .ts massed s!rie&s alarmed every sleeper in t!e neig! our!ood# (!eir mounted men turned out to *!arge our flan&, w!ile settlements for miles a out manned t!eir roofs and fired volleys# 'e left t!e Sera!in offenders wit! t!eir en*um ering loot, and drove on in grim silen*e, &eeping toget!er in w!at order we *ould, w!ile my trained men did marvellous servi*e !elping t!ose w!o fell, or mounting e!ind t!em t!ose w!ose *amels got up too !urt to *anter on# (!e ground was still muddy, and t!e ploug!ed strips more la orious t!an ever) ut e!ind us was t!e riot, spurring us and our *amels to e3ertion, li&e a pa*& !unting us into t!e refuge of t!e !ills# At lengt! we entered t!ese, and *ut t!roug! y a etter road towards pea*e, yet riding our >aded animals as !ard as we *ould, for dawn was near# Gradually t!e noise e!ind us died away, and t!e last stragglers fell into pla*e, driven toget!er, as on t!e advan*e, y t!e flail of Ali i n el $ussein and myself in t!e rear# (!e day ro&e >ust as we rode down to t!e railway, and 'ood, Ali and t!e *!iefs, now in front to test t!e passage, were amused y *utting t!e telegrap! in many pla*es w!ile t!e pro*ession mar*!ed over# 'e !ad *rossed t!e line t!e nig!t efore to low up t!e ridge at (ell el S!e!a , and so *ut ,alestine off from Damas*us, and we were a*tually *utting t!e telegrap! to Medina after all our pains and ris&sA Allen y?s guns, still s!a&ing t!e air away t!ere on our rig!t, were itter re*orders of t!e failure we !ad een# (!e grey dawn drew on wit! gentleness in it, fore oding t!e grey dri++le of rain w!i*! followed, a dri++le so soft and !opeless t!at it seemed to mo*& our ro&en-footed plodding towards A u Sawana# At sunset we rea*!ed t!e long water-pool) and t!ere t!e re>e*ts of our party were *urious after t!e

detail of our mista&es# 'e were fools, all of us e@ual fools, and so our rage was aimless# A!med and Awad !ad anot!er fig!t) young Mustafa refused to *oo& ri*e) :arra> and Daud &no*&ed !im a out until !e *ried) Ali !ad two of !is servants eaten- and none of us or of t!em *ared a little it# 8ur minds were si*& wit! failure, and our odies tired after nearly a !undred strained miles over ad *ountry in ad *onditions, etween sunset and sunset, wit!out !alt or food#

&()PTE" L..+II
:ood was going to e our ne3t preo**upation, and we !eld a *oun*il in t!e *old driving rain to *onsider w!at we mig!t do# :or lig!tness? sa&e we !ad *arried from A+ra& t!ree days? rations, w!i*! made us *omplete until to-nig!t) ut we *ould not go a*& empty-!anded# (!e %eni Sa&!r wanted !onour, and t!e Sera!in were too lately disgra*ed not to *lamour for more adventure# 'e !ad still a reserve ag of t!irty pounds of gelatine, and Ali i n el $ussein w!o !ad !eard of t!e performan*es elow Maan, and was as Ara as any Ara , said, ?2et?s low up a train?# (!e word was !ailed wit! universal >oy, and t!ey loo&ed at me- ut . was not a le to s!are t!eir !opes, all at on*e# %lowing up trains was an e3a*t s*ien*e w!en done deli erately, y a suffi*ient party, wit! ma*!ineguns in position# .f s*ram led at it mig!t e*ome dangerous# (!e diffi*ulty t!is time was t!at t!e availa le gunners were .ndians) w!o, t!oug! good men fed, were only !alf-men in *old and !unger# . did not propose to drag t!em off wit!out rations on an adventure w!i*! mig!t ta&e a wee&# (!ere was no *ruelty in starving Ara s) t!ey would not die of a few days? fasting, and would fig!t as well as ever on empty stoma*!s) w!ile, if t!ings got too diffi*ult, t!ere were t!e riding-*amels to &ill and eat- ut t!e .ndians, t!oug! Moslems, refused *amel-fles! on prin*iple# . e3plained t!ese deli*a*ies of diet# Ali at on*e said t!at it would e enoug! for me to low up t!e train, leaving !im and t!e Ara s wit! !im to do t!eir est to *arry its wre*& wit!out ma*!ine-gun support# As, in t!is unsuspe*ting distri*t, we mig!t well !appen on a supply train, wit! *ivilians or only a small guard of reservists a oard, . agreed to ris& it# (!e de*ision !aving een applauded, we sat down in a *loa&ed *ir*le, to finis! our remaining food in a very late and *old supper Bt!e rain !ad sodden t!e fuel and made fire not possi leC our !earts somew!at *omforted y *!an*e of anot!er effort# At dawn, wit! t!e unfit of t!e Ara s, t!e .ndians moved away for A+ra&, misera ly# (!ey !ad started up *ountry wit! me in !ope of a really military enterprise, and first !ad seen t!e muddled ridge, and now were losing t!is prospe*tive train# .t was !ard on t!em) and to soften t!e low wit! !onour . as&ed 'ood to a**ompany t!em# $e agreed, after argument, for t!eir sa&es) ut it proved a wise move for !imself, as a si*&ness w!i*! !ad een trou ling !im egan to s!ow t!e early signs of pneumonia# (!e alan*e of us, some si3ty men, turned a*& towards t!e railway# 0one of t!em &new t!e *ountry, so . led t!em to Minifir, w!ere, wit! Gaal, we !ad made !avo* in t!e spring# (!e re-*urved !ill-top was an e3*ellent o servation post, *amp, gra+ing ground and way of retreat, and we sat t!ere in our old pla*e till sunset, s!ivering and staring out over t!e immense plain w!i*! stret*!ed map-li&e to t!e *louded pea&s of /e el Druse, wit! 9m el /emal and !er sister-villages li&e in&-smudges on it t!roug! t!e rain# .n t!e first dus& we wal&ed down to lay t!e mine# (!e re uilt *ulvert of &ilometre 1L2 seemed still t!e fittest pla*e# '!ile we stood y it t!ere *ame a rum ling, and t!roug! t!e gat!ering dar&ness and mist a train suddenly appeared round t!e nort!ern *urve, only two !undred yards away# 'e s*urried under t!e long ar*! and !eard it roll over!ead# (!is was annoying) ut w!en t!e *ourse was *lear again, we fell to urying t!e *!arge# (!e evening was itterly *old, wit! drifts of rain lowing down t!e valley# (!e ar*! was solid masonry, of four metres span, and stood over a s!ingle water- ed w!i*! too& its rise on our !ill-top# (!e winter rains !ad *ut t!is into a *!annel four feet deep, narrow and winding, w!i*! served us as an admira le approa*! till wit!in t!ree !undred yards of t!e line# (!ere t!e gully widened out and ran straig!t towards t!e *ulvert, open to t!e sig!t of anyone upon t!e rails#

'e !id t!e e3plosive *arefully on t!e *rown of t!e ar*!, deeper t!an usual, eneat! a tie, so t!at t!e patrols would not feel its >elly softness under t!eir feet# (!e wires were ta&en down t!e an& into t!e s!ingle ed of t!e water*ourse, w!ere *on*ealment was @ui*&) and up it as far as t!ey would rea*!# 9nfortunately, t!is was only si3ty yards, for t!ere !ad een diffi*ulty in 4gypt over insulated *a le and no more !ad een availa le w!en oure3pedition started# Si3ty yards was plenty for t!e ridge, ut little for a train- !owever, t!e ends !appened to *oin*ide wit! a little us! a out ten in*!es !ig!, on t!e edge of t!e water*ourse, and we uried t!em eside t!is very *onvenient mar&# .t was impossi le to leave t!em >oined up to t!e e3ploder in t!e proper way, sin*e t!e spot was evident to t!e permanent-way patrols as t!ey madet!eir rounds# 8wing to t!e mud t!e >o too& longer t!an usual, and it was very nearly dawn efore we finis!ed# . waited under t!e draug!ty ar*! till day ro&e, wet and dismal, and t!en . went over t!e w!ole area of distur an*e, spending anot!er !alf-!our in effa*ing its every mar&, s*attering leaves and dead grass over it, and watering down t!e ro&en mud from a s!allow rain-pool near# (!en t!ey waved to me t!at t!e first patrol was *oming, and . went up to >oin t!e ot!ers# %efore . !ad rea*!ed t!em t!ey *ame tearing down into t!eir prearranged pla*es, lining t!e water*ourse and spurs ea*! side# A train was *oming from t!e nort!# $amud, :eisal?s long slave, !ad t!e e3ploder) ut efore !e rea*!ed me a s!ort train of *losed o3-waggons rus!ed y at speed# (!e rainstorms on t!e plain and t!e t!i*& morning !ad !idden it from t!e eyes of our wat*!man until too late# (!is se*ond failure saddened us furt!er and Ali egan to say t!at not!ing would *ome rig!t t!is trip# Su*! a statement !eld ris& as prelude of t!e dis*overy of an evil eye present) so, to divert attention, . suggested new wat*!ing posts e sent far out, one to t!e ruins on t!e nort!, one to t!e great *airn of t!e sout!ern *rest# (!e rest, !aving no rea&fast, were to pretend not to e !ungry# (!ey all en>oyed doing t!is, and for a w!ile we sat *!eerfully in t!e rain, !uddling against one anot!er for warmt! e!ind a reastwor& of our streaming *amels# (!e moisture made t!e animals? !air *url up li&e a flee*e, so t!at t!ey loo&ed @ueerly dis!evelled# '!en t!e rain paused, w!i*! it did fre@uently, a *old moaning wind sear*!ed out t!e unprote*ted parts of us very t!oroug!ly# After a time we found our wetted s!irts *lammy and *omfortless t!ings# 'e !ad not!ing to eat, not!ing to do and now!ere to sit e3*ept on wet ro*&, wet grass or mud# $owever, t!is persistent weat!er &ept reminding me t!at it would delay Allen y?s advan*e on /erusalem, and ro !im of !is great possi ility# So large a misfortune to our lion was a !alf-en*ouragement for t!e mi*e# 'e would e partners into ne3t year# .n t!e est *ir*umstan*es, waiting for a*tion was !ard# (o-day it was eastly# 4ven enemy patrols stum led along wit!out *are, perfun*torily, against t!e rain# At last, near noon, in a snat*! of fine weat!er, t!e wat*!men on t!e sout! pea& flagged t!eir *loa&s wildly in signal of a train# 'e rea*!ed our positions in an instant, for we !ad s@uatted t!e late !ours on our !eels in a streaming dit*! near t!e line, so as not to miss anot!er *!an*e# (!e Ara s too& *over properly# . loo&ed a*& at t!eir am us! from my firing point, and saw not!ing ut t!e grey !illsides# . *ould not !ear t!e train *oming, ut trusted, and &nelt ready for per!aps !alf an !our, w!en t!e suspense e*ame intolera le, and . signalled to &now w!at was up# (!ey sent down to say it was *oming very slowly, and was an enormously long train# 8ur appetites stiffened# (!e longer it was t!e more would e t!e loot# (!en *ame word t!at it !ad stopped# .t moved again# :inally, near one o?*lo*&, . !eard it panting# (!e lo*omotive was evidently defe*tive Ball t!ese woodfired trains were adC, and t!e !eavy load on t!e up-gradient was proving too mu*! for its *apa*ity# . *rou*!ed e!ind my us!, w!ile it *rawled slowly into view past t!e sout! *utting, and along t!e an& a ove my !ead towards t!e *ulvert# (!e first ten tru*&s were open tru*&s, *rowded wit! troops# $owever, on*e again it was too late to *!oose, so w!en t!e engine was s@uarely over t!e mine . pus!ed down t!e !andle of t!e e3ploder# 0ot!ing !appened# . sawed it up and down fourtimes# Still not!ing !appened) and . reali+ed t!at it !ad gone out of order, and t!at . was &neeling on a na&ed an&, wit! a (ur&is! troop train *rawling past fifty yards away# (!e us!, w!i*! !ad seemed a foot

!ig!, s!ran& smaller t!an a fig-leaf) and . felt myself t!e most distin*t o >e*t in t!e *ountry-side# %e!ind me was an open valley for two !undred yards to t!e *over w!ere my Ara s were waiting and wondering w!at . was at# .t was impossi le to ma&e a olt for it, or t!e (ur&s would step off t!e train and finis! us# .f . sat still, t!ere mig!t e >ust a !ope of my eing ignored as a *asual %edouin# So t!ere . sat, *ounting for s!eer life, w!ile eig!teen open tru*&s, t!ree o3-waggons, and t!ree offi*ers? *oa*!es dragged y# (!e engine panted slower and slower, and . t!oug!t every moment t!at it would rea& down# (!e troops too& no great noti*e of me, ut t!e offi*ers were interested, and *ame out to t!e little platforms at t!e ends of t!eir *arriages, pointing and staring# . waved a*& at t!em, grinning nervously, and feeling an impro a le s!ep!erd in my Me**an dress, wit! its twisted golden *ir*let a out my !ead# ,er!aps t!e mud-stains, t!e wet and t!eir ignoran*e made me a**epted# (!e end of t!e ra&e van slowly disappeared into t!e *utting on t!e nort!#

As it went, . >umped up, uried my wires, snat*!ed !old of t!e wret*!ed e3ploder, and went li&e a ra it up!ill into safety# (!ere . too& reat! and loo&ed a*& to see t!at t!e train !ad finally stu*&# .t waited, a out five !undred yards eyond t!e mine, for nearly an !our to get up a !ead of steam, w!ile an offi*ers? patrol *ame a*& and sear*!ed, very *arefully, t!e ground w!ere . !ad een seen sitting# $owever t!e wires were properly idden- t!ey found not!ing- t!e engine plu*&ed up !eart again, and away t!ey went#

&()PTE" L..+III
Mifle! was past tears, t!in&ing . !ad intentionally let t!e train t!roug!) and w!en t!e Sera!in !ad een told t!e real *ause t!ey said ?%ad lu*& is wit! us?# $istori*ally t!ey were rig!t) ut t!ey meant it for a prop!e*y, so . made sar*asti* referen*e to t!eir *ourage at t!e ridge t!e wee& efore, !inting t!at it mig!t e a tri al preferen*e to sit on *amel-guard# At on*e t!ere was uproar, t!e Sera!in atta*&ing me furiously, t!e %eni Sa&!r defending# Ali !eard t!e trou le, and *ame running# '!en we !ad made it up t!e original desponden*y was !alf forgotten# Ali a*&ed me no ly, t!oug! t!e wret*!ed oy was lue wit! *old and s!ivering in an atta*& of fever# $e gasped t!at t!eir an*estor t!e ,rop!et !ad given to S!erifs t!e fa*ulty of ?sig!t?, and y it !e &new t!at our lu*& was turning# (!is was *omfort for t!em- my first instalment of good fortune *ame w!en in t!e wet, wit!out ot!er tool t!an my dagger, . got t!e o3 of t!e e3ploder open and persuaded its ele*tri*al gear to wor& properly on*e more# 'e returned to our vigil y t!e wires, ut not!ing !appened, and evening drew down wit! more s@ualls and eastliness, every ody full of grum les# (!ere was no train) it was too wet to lig!t a *oo&ing fire) our only potential food was *amel# "aw meat did not tempt anyone t!at nig!t) and so our easts survived to t!e morrow#

Ali lay down on !is elly, w!i*! position lessened t!e !unger-a*!e, trying to sleep off !is fever# ;!a+en, Ali?s servant, lent !im !is *loa& for e3tra *overing# :or a spell . too& ;!a+en under mine, ut soon found it e*oming *rowded# So . left it to !im and went down!ill to *onne*t up t!e e3ploder# Afterwards . spent t!e nig!t t!ere alone y t!e singing telegrap! wires, !ardly wis!ing to sleep, so painful was t!e *old# 0ot!ing *ame all t!e long !ours, and dawn, w!i*! ro&e wet, loo&ed even uglier t!an usual# 'e were si*& to deat! of Minifir, of railways, of train wat*!ing and wre*&ing, y now# . *lim ed up to t!e main ody w!ile t!e early patrol sear*!ed t!e railway# (!en t!e day *leared a little# Ali awo&e, mu*! refres!ed, and !is new spirit *!eered us# $amud, t!e slave, produ*ed some sti*&s w!i*! !e !ad &ept under !is *lot!es y !is s&in all nig!t# (!ey were nearly dry# 'e s!aved down some lasting gelatine, and wit! its !ot flame got a fire going, w!ile t!e Su&!ur !urriedly &illed a mangy *amel, t!e est spared of our riding- easts, and egan wit! entren*!ing tools to !a*& it into !andy >oints# /ust at t!at moment t!e wat*!man on t!e nort! *ried a train# 'e left t!e fire and made a reat!less ra*e of t!e si3 !undred yards down!ill to our old position# %ound t!e end, w!istling its loudest, *ame t!e train, a splendid two-engined t!ing of twelve passenger *oa*!es, travelling at top speed on t!e favouring grade# . tou*!ed off under t!e first driving w!eel of t!e first lo*omotive, and t!e e3plosion was terrifi*# (!e ground spouted la*&ly into my fa*e, and . was sent spinning, to sit up wit! t!e s!irt torn to my s!oulder and t!e lood dripping from long, ragged s*rat*!es on my left arm# %etween my &nees lay t!e e3ploder, *rus!ed under a twisted s!eet of sooty iron# .n front of me was t!e s*alded and smo&ing upper !alf of a man# '!en . peered t!roug! t!e dust and steam of t!e e3plosion t!e w!ole oiler of t!e first engine seemed to e missing# . dully felt t!at it was time to get away to support) ut w!en . moved, learnt t!at t!ere was a great pain in my rig!t foot, e*ause of w!i*! . *ould only limp along, wit! my !ead swinging from t!e s!o*&# Movement egan to *lear away t!is *onfusion, as . !o led towards t!e upper valley, w!en*e t!e Ara s were now s!ooting fast into t!e *rowded *oa*!es# Di++ily . *!eered myself y repeating aloud in 4nglis! ?8!, . wis! t!is !adn?t !appened?# '!en t!e enemy egan to return our fire, . found myself mu*! etween t!e two# Ali saw me fall, and t!in&ing t!at . was !ard !it, ran out, wit! (ur&i and a out twenty men of !is servants and t!e %eni Sa&!r, to !elp me# (!e (ur&s found t!eir range and got seven of t!em in a few se*onds# (!e ot!ers, in a rus!, were a out me--fit models, after t!eir a*tivity, for a s*ulptor# (!eir full w!ite *otton drawers drawn in, ell-li&e, round t!eir slender waists and an&les) t!eir !airless rown odies) and t!e lovelo*&s plaited tig!tly over ea*! temple in long !orns, made t!em loo& li&e "ussian dan*ers# 'e s*ram led a*& into *over toget!er, and t!ere, se*retly, . felt myself over, to find . !ad not on*e een really !urt) t!oug! esides t!e ruises and *uts of t!e oiler-plate and a ro&en toe, . !ad five different ullet-gra+es on me Bsome of t!em un*omforta ly deepC and my *lot!es ripped to pie*es# :rom t!e water*ourse we *ould loo& a out# (!e e3plosion !ad destroyed t!e ar*!ed !ead of t!e *ulvert, and t!e frame of t!e first engine was lying eyond it, at t!e near foot of t!e em an&ment, down w!i*! it !ad rolled# (!e se*ond lo*omotive !ad toppled into t!e gap, and was lying a*ross t!e ruined tender of t!e first# .ts ed was twisted# . >udged t!em ot! eyond repair# (!e se*ond tender !ad disappeared over t!e furt!er side) and t!e first t!reewaggons !ad teles*oped and weresmas!ed in pie*es# (!e rest of t!e train was adly derailed, wit! t!e listing *oa*!es utted end to end at all angles, +ig+agged along t!e tra*&# 8ne of t!em was a saloon, de*orated wit! flags# .n it !ad een Me!med /emal ,as!a, *ommanding t!e 4ig!t! Army Corps, !urrying down to defend /erusalem against Allen y# $is *!argers !ad een in t!e first waggon) !is motor-*ar was on t!e end of t!e train, and we s!ot it up# 8f !is staff we noti*ed a fat e**lesiasti*, w!om we t!oug!t to e Assad S!u&air, .mam to A!med /emal ,as!a, and a notorious pro-(ur& pimp# So we la+ed at !im till !e dropped# .t was all long owls# 'e *ould see t!at our *!an*es of *arrying t!e wre*& were slig!t# (!ere !ad een some four !undred men on oard, and t!e survivors, now re*overed from t!e s!o*&, were under

s!elter and s!ooting !ard at us# At t!e first moment our party on t!e nort! spur !ad *losed, and nearly won t!e game# Mifle! on !is mare *!ased t!e offi*ers from t!e saloon into t!e lower dit*!# $e was too e3*ited to stop and s!oot, and so t!ey got away s*at!less# (!e Ara s following !im !ad turned to pi*& up some of t!e rifles and medals littering t!e ground, and t!en to drag ags and o3es from t!e train# .f we !ad !ad a ma*!ine-gun posted to *over t!e far side, a**ording to my mining pra*ti*e, not a (ur& would !ave es*aped# Mifle! and Ad!u re>oined us on t!e !ill, and as&ed after :a!ad# 8ne of t!e Sera!in told !ow !e !ad led t!e first rus!, w!ile . lay &no*&ed out eside t!e e3ploder, and !ad een &illed near it# (!ey s!owed !is elt and rifle as proof t!at !e was dead and t!at t!ey !ad tried to save !im# Ad!u said not a word, ut leaped out of t!e gully, and ra*ed down!ill# 'e *aug!t our reat!s till our lungs !urt us, wat*!ing !im) ut t!e (ur&s seemed not to see# A minute later !e was dragging a ody e!ind t!e left!and an&# Mifle! went a*& to !is mare, mounted, and too& !er down e!ind a spur# (oget!er t!ey lifted t!e inert figure on to t!e pommel, and returned# A ullet !ad passed t!roug! :a!ad?s fa*e, &no*&ing out four teet!, and gas!ing t!e tongue# $e !ad fallen un*ons*ious, ut !ad revived >ust efore Ad!u rea*!ed !im, and was trying on !ands and &nees, linded wit! lood, to *rawl away# $e now re*overed poise enoug! to *ling to a saddle# So t!ey *!anged !im to t!e first *amel t!ey found, and led !im off at on*e# (!e (ur&s, seeing us so @uiet, egan to advan*e up t!e slope# 'e let t!em *ome !alf-way, and t!en poured in volleys w!i*! &illed some twenty and drove t!e ot!ers a*&# (!e ground a out t!e train was strewn wit! dead, and t!e ro&en *oa*!es !ad een *rowded- ut t!ey were fig!ting under eye of t!eir Corps Commander, and undaunted egan to wor& round t!e spurs to outflan& us# 'e were now only a out forty left, and o viously *ould do no good against t!em# So we ran in at*!es up t!e little stream- ed, turning at ea*! s!eltered angle to delay t!em y pot-s!ots# 2ittle (ur&i mu*! distinguis!ed !imself y @ui*& *oolness, t!oug! !is straig!t-sto*&ed (ur&is! *avalry *ar ine made !im so e3pose !is !ead t!at !e got four ullets t!roug! !is !ead-*lot!# A!? was angry wit! me for retiring slowly# .n reality my raw !urts *rippled me, ut to !ide from !im t!is real reason . pretended to e easy, interested in and studying t!e (ur&s# Su*! su**essive rests w!ile . gained *ourage for a new run &ept !im and (ur&i far e!ind t!e rest# At last we rea*!ed t!e !ill-top# 4a*! man t!ere >umped on t!e nearest *amel, and made away at full speed eastward into t!e desert, for an !our# (!en in safety we sorted our animals# (!e e3*ellent "a!ail, despite t!e ruling e3*itement, !ad roug!t off wit! !im, tied to !is saddle-girt!, a !uge !aun*! of t!e *amel slaug!tered >ust as t!e train arrived# $e gave us t!e motive for a proper !alt, five miles fart!er on, as a little party of four *amels appeared mar*!ing in t!e same dire*tion# .t was our *ompanion, Matar, *oming a*& from !is !ome village to A+ra& wit! loads of raisins and peasant deli*a*ies# So we stopped at on*e, under a large ro*& in 'adi D!uleil, w!ere was a arren fig-tree, and *oo&ed our first meal for t!ree days# (!ere, also, we andaged up :a!ad, w!o was sleepy wit! t!e lassitude of !is severe !urt# Ad!u , seeing t!is, too& one of Matar?s new *arpets, and, dou ling it a*ross t!e *amel-saddle, stit*!ed t!e ends into great po*&ets# .n one t!ey laid :a!ad, w!ile Ad!u *rawled into t!e ot!er as ma&e-weig!t- and t!e *amel was led off sout!ward towards t!eir tri al tents# (!e ot!er wounded men were seen to at t!e same time# Mifle! roug!t up t!e youngest lads of t!e party, and !ad t!em spray t!e wounds wit! t!eir piss, as a rude antisepti*# Meanw!ile we w!ole ones refres!ed ourselves# . oug!t anot!er mangy *amel for e3tra meat, paid rewards, *ompensated t!e relatives of t!e &illed, and gave pri+e-money, for t!e si3ty or seventy rifles we !ad ta&en# .t was small ooty, ut not to e despised# Some Sera!in, w!o !ad gone into t!e a*tion wit!out rifles, a le only to t!row unavailing stones, !ad now two guns apie*e# 0e3t day we moved into A+ra&, !aving a great wel*ome, and oasting--God forgive us--t!at we were vi*tors#

&()PTE" L..I.
"ain !ad set in steadily, and t!e *ountry was sodden wet# Allen y !ad failed in !is weat!er, and t!ere *ould e no great advan*e t!is year# 0evert!eless, for progress? sa&e we determined to !old to A+ra&# ,artly it would e a prea*!ing ase, from w!i*! to spread our movement in t!e 0ort!- partly it would e a *entre of intelligen*e- partly it would *ut off 0uri S!aalan from t!e (ur&s# $e !esitated to de*lare !imself only e*ause of !is wealt! in Syria, and t!e possi le !urt to !is tri esmen if t!ey were deprived of t!eir natural mar&et# 'e, y living in one of !is main manors, would &eep !im as!amed to go in to t!e enemy# A+ra& lay favoura ly for us, and t!e old fort would e *onvenient !ead@uarters if we made it !a ita le, no matter !ow severe t!e winter# So . esta lis!ed myself in its sout!ern gate-tower, and set my si3 $aurani oys Bfor w!om manual la our was not disgra*efulC to *over wit! rus!wood, palm- ran*!es, and *lay t!e an*ient split stone rafters, w!i*! stood open to t!e s&y# Ali too& up !is @uarters in t!e sout!-east *orner tower, and made t!at roof tig!t# (!e .ndians weat!er-proofed t!eir own nort!-west rooms# 'e arranged t!e stores on t!e ground floor of t!e western tower, y t!e little gate, for it was t!e soundest, driest pla*e# (!e %ias!a *!ose to live under me in t!e sout! gate# So we lo*&ed t!at entry and made a !all of it# (!en we opened a great ar*! from t!e *ourt to t!e palm-garden, and made a ramp, t!at our *amels mig!t *ome inside ea*! evening# $assan S!a! we appointed Senes*!al# As a good Moslem !is first *are was for t!e little mos@ue in t!e s@uare# .t !ad een !alf unroofed and t!e Ara s !ad penned s!eep wit!in t!e walls# $e set !is twenty men to dig out t!e filt!, and was! t!e pavement *lean# (!e mos@ue t!en e*ame a most attra*tive !ouse of prayer# '!at !ad een a pla*e s!ut off, dedi*ated to God alone, (ime !ad ro&en open to t!e 4vanes*ent wit! its ministering winds and rain and sunlig!t) t!ese entering into t!e wors!ip taug!t wors!ippers !ow t!e two were one# 8ur prudent /emadar?s ne3t la our was to ma&e positions for ma*!ine-guns in t!e upper towers, from w!ose tops t!e approa*!es lay at mer*y# (!en !e pla*ed a formal sentry Ba portent and *ause of wonder in Ara iaC w!ose main duty was t!e s!utting of t!e postern gate at sundown# (!e door was a poised sla of dressed asalt, a foot t!i*&, turning on pivots of itself, so*&eted into t!res!old and lintel# .t too& a great effort to start swinging, and at t!e end went s!ut wit! a *lang and *ras! w!i*! made trem le t!e west wall of t!e old *astle# Meanw!ile, we were studying to provision ourselves# A&a a was far off, and in winter t!e roads t!it!er would e rigorous- so we prepared a *aravan to go up to /e el Druse, t!e neutral land, only a day off# Matar went in *!arge of t!is for us, wit! a long train of *amels to *arry a*& varieties of food for our motley party# %esides my odyguard, w!o were taug!t to live on w!at t!ey got, we !ad t!e .ndians, for w!om pepperless food was no food at all# Ali i n el $ussein wanted s!eep and utter and par*!ed w!eat for !is men and t!e %ias!a# (!en t!ere were t!e guests and refugees w!om we mig!t e3pe*t so soon as t!e news of our esta lis!ment was rumoured in Damas*us# (ill t!ey *ame we s!ould !ave a few days? repose, and we sat down to en>oy t!ese dregs of autumn--t!e alternate days of rain and s!ine# 'e !ad s!eep and flour, mil& and fuel# 2ife in t!e fort, ut for t!e ill-omened mud, went well enoug!# 1et t!e pea*efulness ended sooner t!an we t!oug!t# 'ood, w!o !ad een ailing for some time, went down wit! a s!arp atta*& of dysentery# (!is was not!ing y itself, ut t!e *onse@uent wea&ness mig!t !ave endangered !im w!en winter set in earnestly# %esides, !e was t!eir ase engineer at A&a a) and, e3*ept for t!e *omfort of !is *ompanions!ip, . !ad no >ustifi*ation in &eeping !im longer# So we made up a party to go down wit! !im to t!e *oast, *!oosing as t!e es*ort, A!med, A d el "a!man, Ma!moud, and A+i+# (!ese were to return to A+ra& fort!wit! from A&a a wit! a new *aravan of stores, parti*ularly *omprising .ndian rations# (!e rest of my men would stay in *!illy idleness wat*!ing t!e situation develop# (!en egan our flood of visitors# All day and every day t!ey *ame, now in t!e running *olumn of s!ots, rau*ous s!outing and rus! of *amel-feet w!i*! meant a %edouin parade, it mig!t e of "ualla,

or S!erarat, or Sera!in, Serdiye!, or %eni Sa&!r, *!iefs of great name li&e i n Gu!air, i n ;ae ir, "afa el ;!oreis!a, or some little fat!er of a family demonstrating !is greedy goodwill efore t!e fair eyes of Ali i n el $ussein# (!en it would e a wild gallop of !orse- Druses, or t!e ruffling warli&e peasants of t!e Ara plain# Sometimes it was a *autious, slow-led *aravan of ridden *amels, from w!i*! stiffly dismounted Syrian politi*ians or traders not a**ustomed to t!e road# 8ne day arrived a !undred misera le Armenians, fleeing starvation and t!e suspended terror of t!e (ur&s# Again would *ome a spi*& and span group of mounted offi*ers, Ara deserters from t!e (ur&is! armies, followed, often as not, y a *ompa*t *ompany of Ara ran& and file# Always t!ey *ame, day after day, till t!e desert, w!i*! !ad een tra*&less w!en we *ame, was starred out wit! grey roads# Ali appointed first one, t!en two, and at last t!ree, guest-masters, w!o re*eived t!e rising tide of t!ese new*omers, sorted wors!ipful from *urious, and mars!alled t!em in due time efore !im or me# All wanted to &now a out t!e S!erif, t!e Ara army and t!e 4nglis!# Mer*!ants from Damas*us roug!t presents- sweet-meats, sesame, *aramel, apri*ot paste, nuts, sil& *lot!es for ourselves, ro*ade *loa&s, !ead-*lot!s, s!eeps&ins, felt rugs wit! *oloured strands eaten into t!em in ara es@ues, ,ersian *arpets# 'e returned t!em *offee and sugar, ri*e, and rolls of w!ite *otton s!eeting) ne*essities of w!i*! t!ey !ad een deprived y war# 4very ody learned t!at in A&a a t!ere was plenty, *oming a*ross t!e open sea from all t!e mar&ets of t!e world) and so t!e Ara *ause w!i*! was t!eirs y sentiment, and instin*t and in*lination, e*ame t!eirs y interest also# Slowly our e3ample and tea*!ing *onverted t!em- veryslowly, y our own *!oi*e, t!at t!ey mig!t e ours mor e surely# (!e greatest asset of :eisal?s *ause in t!is wor& up 0ort! was S!erif A!? i n el $ussein# (!e lunati* *ompetitor of t!e wilder tri esmen in t!eir wildest feats was now turning all !is for*e to greater ends# (!e mi3ed natures in !im made of !is fa*e and ody powerful pleadings, *arnal, per!aps, e3*ept in so far as t!ey were transfused y *!ara*ter# 0o one *ould see !im wit!out t!e desire to see !im again) espe*ially w!en !e smiled, as !e did rarely, wit! ot! mout! and eyes at on*e# $is eauty was a *ons*ious weapon# $e dressed spotlessly, all in la*& or all in w!ite) and !e studied gesture# :ortune !ad added p!ysi*al perfe*tion and unusual gra*e, ut t!ese @ualities were only t!e >ust e3pression of !is powers# (!ey made o vious t!e plu*& w!i*! never yielded, w!i*! would !ave let !im e *ut to pie*es, !olding on# $is pride ro&e out in !is war-*ry, . am of t!e $arit!?, t!e twot!ousand-year-old *lan of free ooters) w!ile t!e !uge eyes, w!ite wit! large la*& pupils slowly turning in t!em, emp!asi+ed t!e fro+en dignity w!i*! was !is ideal *arriage, and to w!i*! !e was always striving to still !imself# %ut as ever t!e u ling laug! would s!rie& out of !im unawares) and t!e yout!, oyis! or girlis!, of !im, t!e fire and deviltry would rea& t!roug! !is nig!t li&e a sunrise# 1et, despite t!is ri*!ness, t!ere was a *onstant depression wit! !im, t!e un&nown longing of simple, restless people for a stra*t t!oug!t eyond t!eir minds? supply# $is odily strengt! grew day y day, and !atefully fles!ed over t!is !um le somet!ing w!i*! !e wanted more# $is wild mirt! was only one sign of t!e vain wearing-out of !is desire# (!ese esetting strangers underlined !is deta*!ment, !is unwilling deta*!ment, from !is fellows# Despite !is great instin*t for *onfession and *ompany, !e *ould find no intimates# 1et !e *ould not e alone# .f !e !ad no guests, ;!a+en, t!e servant, must serve !is meals, w!ile Ali and !is slaves ate toget!er# .n t!ese slow nig!ts we were se*ure against t!e world# :or one t!ing, it was winter, and in t!e rain and t!e dar& few men would venture eit!er over t!e la yrint! of lava or t!roug! t!e mars!--t!e two approa*!es to our fortress) and, furt!er, we !ad g!ostly guardians# (!e first evening we were sitting wit! t!e Sera!in, $assan S!a! !ad made t!e rounds, and t!e *offee was eing pounded y t!e !eart!, w!en t!ere rose a strange, long wailing round t!e towers outside# . n %ani sei+ed me y t!e arm and !eld to me, s!uddering# . w!ispered to !im, ?'!at is .(J? and !e gasped t!at t!e dogs of t!e %eni $illal, t!e myt!i*al uilders of t!e fort, @uested t!e si3 towers ea*! nig!t for t!eir dead masters# 'e strained to listen# (!roug! Ali?s la*& asalt window-frame *rept a rustling, w!i*! was t!e stirring of t!e nig!t-wind in t!e wit!ered palms, an intermittent rustling, li&e 4nglis! rain on yet-*risp fallen leaves# (!en t!e *ries *ame again and again and again, rising slowly in power, till t!ey so ed round t!e walls in deep waves to die away *!o&ed and misera le# At su*! times our men pounded t!e *offee

!arder w!ile t!e Ara s ro&e into sudden song to o**upy t!eir ears against t!e misfortune# 0o %edouin would lie outside in wait for t!e mystery, and from our windows we saw not!ing ut t!e motes of water in t!e dan& air w!i*! drove t!roug! t!e radian*e of our firelig!t# So it remained a legend- ut wolves or >a*&als, !yasnas, or !unting dogs, t!eir g!ost-wat*! &ept our ward more *losely t!an arms *ould !ave done# .n t!e evening, w!en we !ad s!ut-to t!e gate, all guests would assem le, eit!er in my room or in Ali?s, and *offee and stories would go round until t!e last meal, and after it, till sleep *ame# 8n stormy nig!ts we roug!t in rus!wood and dung and lit a great fire in t!e middle of t!e floor# A out it would e drawn t!e *arpets and t!e saddle-s!eeps&ins, and in its lig!t we would tell over our own attles, or !ear t!e visitors? traditions# (!e leaping flames *!ased our smo&e-muffled s!adows strangely a out t!e roug! stone wall e!ind us, distorting t!em over t!e !ollows and pro>e*tions of its ro&en fa*e# '!en t!ese stories *ame to a period, our tig!t *ir*le would s!ift over, uneasily, to t!e ot!er &nee or el ow) w!ile *offee-*ups went *lin&ing round, and a servant fanned t!e lue ree& of t!e fire towards t!e loop!ole wit! !is *loa&, ma&ing t!e glowing as! swirl and spar&le wit! !is draug!t# (ill t!e voi*e of t!e story-teller too& up again, we would !ear t!e rain-spots !issing riefly as t!ey dripped from t!e stone- eamed roof into t!e fire?s !eart# At last t!e s&y turned solidly to rain, and no man *ould approa*! us# .n loneliness we learned t!e full disadvantage of imprisonment wit!in su*! gloomy an*ient unmortared pala*es# (!e rains guttered down wit!in t!e walls? t!i*&ness and spouted into t!e rooms from t!eir *!in&s# 'e set rafts of palmran*!es to ear us *lear of t!e streaming floor, *overed t!em wit! felt mats, and !uddled down on t!em under s!eeps&ins, wit! anot!er mat over us li&e a s!ield to t!row off t!e water# .t was i*y *old, as we !id t!ere, motionless, from mur&y daylig!t until dar&, our minds seeming suspended wit!in t!ese massive walls, t!roug! w!ose every s!ot-window t!e pier*ing mist streamed li&e a w!ite pennant# ,ast and future flowed over us li&e an uneddying river# 'e dreamed ourselves into t!e spirit of t!e pla*e) sieges and feasting, raids, murders, love-singing in t!e nig!t# (!is es*ape of our wits from t!e fettered ody was an indulgen*e against w!ose enervation only *!ange of s*ene *ould avail# <ery painfully . drew myself again into t!e present, and for*ed my mind to say t!at it must use t!is wintry weat!er to e3plore t!e *ountry lying round a out Deraa# As . was t!in&ing !ow . would ride, t!ere *ame to us, un!eralded, one morning in t!e rain, (alal el $areid!in, s!ei&! of (afas# $e was a famous outlaw wit! a pri*e upon !is !ead) ut so great t!at !e rode a out as !e pleased# .n two wild years !e !ad &illed, a**ording to report, some twenty-t!ree of t!e (ur&s# $is si3 followers were splendidly mounted, and !imself t!e most das!ing figure of a man in t!e !eig!t of $auran fas!ion# $is s!eeps&in *oat was finest Angora, *overed in green road*lot!, wit! sil& pat*!es and designs in raid# $is ot!er *lot!es were sil&) and !is !ig! oots, !is silver saddle, !is sword, dagger, and rifle mat*!ed !is reputation# $e swaggered to our *offee-!eart!, as a man sure of !is wel*ome, greeting Ali oisterously Bafter our long so>ourn wit! t!e tri es all peasants sounded oisterousC, laug!ing road-mout!ed at t!e weat!er and our old fort and t!e enemy# $e loo&ed a out t!irty-five, was s!ort and strong, wit! a full fa*e, trimmed eard and long, pointed mousta*!es# $is round eyes were made rounder, larger and dar&er y t!e antimony loaded on in villager style# $e was ardently ours, and we re>oi*ed, sin*e !is name was one to *on>ure wit! in $auran# '!en a day !ad made me sure of !im, . too& !im se*retly to t!e palm-garden, and told !im my am ition to see !is neig! our!ood# (!e idea delig!ted !im, and !e *ompanioned me for t!e mar*! as t!oroug!ly and *!eerfully as only a Syrian on a good !orse *ould# $alim and :aris, men spe*ially engaged, rode wit! me as guards# 'e went past 9mtaiye, loo&ing at tra*&s, wells and lava-fields, *rossed t!e line to S!ei&! Saad, and turned sout! to (afas, w!ere (alal was at !ome# 0e3t day we went on to (ell Arar, a splendid position *losing t!e Damas*us railway and *ommanding Deraa# Afterwards we rode t!roug! tri*&y rolling *ountry to Me+eri on t!e ,alestine railway) planning, !ere also, for t!e ne3t time) w!en wit! men, money and guns we s!ould start t!e general rising to win inevita le vi*tory# ,er!aps t!e *oming spring inig!t see Allen y leap forward#

&()PTE" L...
,roperly to round off t!is spying of t!e !ollow land of $auran, it was ne*essary to visit Deraa, its *!ief town# 'e *ould *ut it off on nort! and west and sout!, y destroying t!e t!ree railways) ut it would e more tidy to rus! t!e >un*tion first and wor& outwards# (alal, !owever, *ould not venture in wit! me sin*e !e was too well &nown in t!e pla*e# So we parted from !im wit! many t!an&s on ot! sides, and rode sout!ward along t!e line until near Deraa# (!ere we dismounted# (!e oy, $alim, too& t!e ponies, and set off for 0isi , sout! of Deraa# My plan was to wal& round t!e railway station and town wit! :aris, and rea*! 0isi after sunset# ,aris was my est *ompanion for t!e trip, e*ause !e was an insignifi*ant peasant, old enoug! to e my fat!er, and respe*ta le# (!e respe*ta ility seemed *omparative as we tramped off in t!e watery sunlig!t, w!i*! was ta&ing t!e pla*e of t!e rain last nig!t# (!e ground was muddy, we were arefoot, and our draggled *lot!es s!owed t!e stains of t!e foul weat!er to w!i*! we !ad een e3posed# . was in $alim?s wet t!ings, wit! a torn $urani >a*&et, and was yet limping from t!e ro&en foot a*@uired w!en we lew up /emal?s train# (!e slippery tra*& made wal&ing diffi*ult, unless we spread out our toes widely and too& !old of t!e ground wit! t!em- and doing t!is for mile after mile was e3@uisitely painful to me# %e*ause pain !urt me so, . would not lay weig!t always on my pains in our revolt- yet !ardly one day in Ara ia passed wit!out a p!ysi*al a*!e to in*rease t!e *orroding sense of my a**essory de*eitfulness towards t!e Ara s, and t!e legitimate fatigue of responsi le *ommand# 'e mounted t!e *urving an& of t!e ,alestine "ailway, and from its vantage surveyed Deraa Stationut t!e ground was too open to admit of surprise atta*&# 'e de*ided to wal& down t!e east front of t!e defen*es- so we plodded on, noting German stores, ar ed wire !ere and t!ere, rudiments of tren*!es# (ur&is! troops were passing in*uriously etween t!e tents and t!eir latrines dug out on our side# At t!e *orner of t!e aerodrome y t!e sout! end of t!e station we stru*& over towards t!e town# (!ere were old Al atros ma*!ines in t!e s!eds, and men lounging a out# 8ne of t!ese, a Syrian soldier, egan to @uestion us a out our villages, and if t!ere was mu*! ?government? w!ere we lived# $e was pro a ly an intending deserter, fis!ing for a refuge# 'e s!oo& !im off at last and turned away# Someone *alled out in (ur&is!# 'e wal&ed on deafly) ut a sergeant *ame after, and too& me roug!ly y t!e arm, saying ?(!e %ey wants you?# (!ere were too many witnesses for fig!t or flig!t, so . went readily# $e too& no noti*e of ,aris# . was mar*!ed t!roug! t!e tall fen*e into a *ompound set a out wit! many !uts and a few uildings# 'e passed to a mud room, outside w!i*! was an eart! platform, w!ereon sat a fles!y (ur&is! offi*er, one leg tu*&ed under !im# $e !ardly glan*ed at me w!en t!e sergeant roug!t me up and made a long report in (ur&is!# $e as&ed my name- . told !im A!med i n %agr, a Cir*assian from ;uneitra# ?A deserterJ? ?%ut we Cir*assians !ave no military servi*e?# $e turned, stared at me, and said very slowly ?1ou are a liar# 4nrol !im in your se*tion, $assan C!owis!, and do w!at is ne*essary till t!e %ey sends for !im?# (!ey led me into a guard-room, mostly ta&en up y large wooden *ri s, on w!i*! lay or sat a do+en men in untidy uniforms# (!ey too& away my elt, and my &nife, made me was! myself *arefully, and fed me# . passed t!e long day t!ere# (!ey would not let me go on any terms, ut tried to reassure me# A soldier?s life was not all ad# (o-morrow, per!aps, leave would e permitted, if . fulfilled t!e %ey?s pleasure t!is evening# (!e %ey seemed to e 0a!i, t!e Governor# .f !e was angry, t!ey said, . would e drafted for infantry training to t!e depot in %aal e&# . tried to loo& as t!oug!, to my mind, t!ere was not!ing worse in t!e world t!an t!at# Soon after dar& t!ree men *ame for me# .t !ad seemed a *!an*e to get away, ut one !eld me all t!e time# . *ursed my littleness# 8ur mar*! *rossed t!e railway, w!ere were si3 tra*&s, esides t!e sidings of t!e engine-s!op# 'e went t!roug! a side gate, down a street, past a s@uare, to a deta*!ed, twostoried !ouse# (!ere was a sentry outside, and a glimpse of ot!ers lolling in t!e dar& entry# (!ey too& me upstairs to t!e %ey?s room) or to !is edroom, rat!er# $e was anot!er ul&y man, a Cir*assian !imself, per!aps, and sat on t!e ed in a nig!t-gown, trem ling and sweating as t!oug! wit! fever#

'!en . was pus!ed in !e &ept !is !ead down, and waved t!e guard out# .n a reat!less voi*e !e told me to sit on t!e floor in front of !im, and after t!at was dum ) w!ile . ga+ed at t!e top of !is great !ead, on w!i*! t!e ristling !air stood up, no longer t!an t!e dar& stu le on !is *!ee&s and *!in# At last !e loo&ed me over, and told me to stand up- t!en to turn round# . o eyed) !e flung !imself a*& on t!e ed, and dragged me down wit! him in !is arms# '!en . saw w!at !e wanted . twisted round and up again, glad to find myself e@ual to !im, at any rate in wrestling# $e egan to fawn on me, saying !ow w!ite and fres! . was, !ow fine my !ands and feet, and !ow !e would let me off drills and duties, ma&e me !is orderly, even pay me wages, if . would love !im# . was o durate, so !e *!anged !is tone, and s!arply ordered me to ta&e off my drawers# '!en . !esitated, !e snat*!ed at me) and . pus!ed !im a*&# $e *lapped !is !ands for t!e sentry, w!o !urried in and pinioned me# (!e %ey *ursed me wit! !orri le t!reats- and made t!e man !olding me tear my *lot!es away, it y it# $is eyes rounded at t!e !alf-!ealed pla*es w!ere t!e ullets !ad fli*&ed t!roug! my s&in a little w!ile ago# :inally !e lum ered to !is feet, wit! a glitter in !is loo&, and egan to paw me over# . ore it for a little, till !e got too eastly) and t!en >er&ed my &nee into !im# $e staggered to !is ed, s@uee+ing !imself toget!er and groaning wit! pain, w!ile t!e soldier s!outed for t!e *orporal and t!e ot!er t!ree men to grip me !and and foot# As soon as . was !elpless t!e Governor regained *ourage, and spat at me, swearing !e would ma&e me as& pardon# $e too& off !is slipper, and !it me repeatedly wit! it in t!e fa*e, w!ile t!e *orporal ra*ed my !ead a*& y t!e !air to re*eive t!e lows# $e leaned forward, fi3ed !is teet! in my ne*& and it till t!e lood *ame# (!en !e &issed me# Afterwards !e drew one of t!e men?s ayonets# . t!oug!t !e was going to loll me, and was sorry- ut !e only pulled up a fold of t!e fles! over my ri s, wor&ed t!e point t!roug!, after *onsidera le trou le, and gave t!e lade a !alf-turn# (!is !urt, and . win*ed, w!ile t!e lood wavered down my side, and dripped to t!e front of my t!ig!# $e loo&ed pleased and da led it over my stoma*! wit! !is finger-tips# .n my despair . spo&e# $is fa*e *!anged and !e stood still, t!en *ontrolled !is voi*e wit! an effort, to say signifi*antly, ?1ou must understand t!at . &now- and it will e easier if you do as . wis!?# . was dum founded, and we stared silently at one anot!er, w!ile t!e men w!o felt an inner meaning eyond t!eir e3perien*e, s!ifted un*omforta ly# %ut it was evidently a *!an*e s!ot, y w!i*! !e !imself did not, or would not, mean w!at . feared# . *ould not again trust my twit*!ing mout!, w!i*! faltered always in emergen*ies, so at last t!rew up my *!in, w!i*! was t!e sign for ?0o? in t!e 4ast) t!en !e sat down, and !alf-w!ispered to t!e *orporal to ta&e me out and tea*! me everyt!ing# (!ey &i*&ed me to t!e !ead of t!e stairs, and stret*!ed me over a guard- en*!, pommelling me# (wo &nelt on my an&les, earing down on t!e a*& of my &nees, w!ile two more twisted my wrists till t!ey *ra*&ed, and t!en *rus!ed t!em and my ne*& against t!e wood# (!e *orporal !ad run downstairs) and now *ame a*& wit! a w!ip of t!e Cir*assian sort, a t!ong of supple la*& !ide, rounded, and tapering from t!e t!i*&ness of a t!um at t!e grip Bw!i*! was wrapped in silverC down to a !ard point finer t!an a pen*il# $e saw me s!ivering, partly . t!in&, wit! *old, and made it w!istle over my ear, taunting me t!at efore !is tent! *ut . would !owl for mer*y, and at t!e twentiet! eg for t!e *aresses of t!e %ey) and t!en !e egan to las! me madly a*ross and a*ross wit! all !is mig!t, w!ile . lo*&ed my teet! to endure t!is t!ing w!i*! lapped itself li&e flaming wire a out my ody# (o &eep my mind in *ontrol . num ered t!e lows, ut after twenty lost *ount, and *ould feel only t!e s!apeless weig!t of pain, not tearing *laws, for w!i*! . !ad prepared, ut a gradual *ra*&ing apart of my w!ole eing y some too-great for*e w!ose waves rolled up my spine till t!ey were pent wit!in my rain, to *las! terri ly toget!er# Somew!ere in t!e pla*e a *!eap *lo*& ti*&ed loudly, and it distressed me t!at t!eir eating was not in its time# . writ!ed and twisted, ut was !eld so tig!tly t!at my struggles were useless# After t!e *orporal *eased, t!e men too& up, very deli erately, giving me so many, and t!en an interval, during w!i*! t!ey would s@ua le for t!e ne3t turn, ease t!emselves, and play unspea&a ly wit! me# (!is was repeated often, for w!at may !ave een no more t!an ten

minutes# Always for t!e first of every new series, my !ead would e pulled round, to see !ow a !ard w!ite ridge, li&e a railway, dar&ening slowly into *rimson, leaped over my s&in at t!e instant of ea*! stro&e, wit! a ead of lood w!ere two ridges *rossed# As t!e punis!ment pro*eeded t!e w!ip fell more and more upon e3isting weals, iting la*&er or more wet, till my fles! @uivered wit! a**umulated pain, and wit! terror of t!e ne3t low *oming# (!ey soon *on@uered my determination not to *ry, ut w!ile my will ruled my lips . used only Ara i*, and efore t!e end a mer*iful si*&ness *!o&ed my utteran*e# At last w!en . was *ompletely ro&en t!ey seemed satisfied# Some!ow . found myself off t!e en*!, lying on my a*& on t!e dirty floor, w!ere . snuggled down, da+ed, panting for reat!, ut vaguely *omforta le# . !ad strung myself to learn all pain until . died, and no longer a*tor, ut spe*tator, t!oug!t not to *are !ow my ody >er&ed and s@uealed# 1et . &new or imagined w!at passed a ou t me# . remem ered t!e *orporal &i*&ing wit! !is nailed oot to get me up) and t!is was true, for ne3t day my rig!t side was dar& and la*erated, and a damaged ri made ea*! reat! sta me s!arply# . remem ered smiling idly at !im, for a deli*ious warmt!, pro a ly se3ual, was swelling t!roug! meand t!en t!at !e flung up !is arm and !a*&ed wit! t!e full lengt! of !is w!ip into my groin# (!is dou led me !alf-over, s*reaming, or, rat!er, trying impotently to s*ream, only s!uddering t!roug! my open mout!# 8ne giggled wit! amusement# A voi*e *ried, ?S!ame, you?ve &illed !im?# Anot!er slas! followed# A roaring, and my eyes went la*&- w!ile wit!in me t!e *ore of Me seemed to !eave slowly up t!roug! t!e rending nerves, e3pelled from its ody y t!is last indes*ri a le pang# %y t!e ruises per!aps t!ey eat me furt!er- ut . ne3t &new t!at . was eing dragged a out y two men, ea*! disputing over a leg as t!oug! to split me apart- w!ile a t!ird man rode me astride# .t was momently etter t!an more flogging# (!en 0a!i *alled# (!ey splas!ed water in my fa*e, wiped off some of t!e filt!, and lifted me etween t!em, ret*!ing and so ing for mer*y, to w!ere !e lay- ut !e now re>e*ted me in !aste, as a t!ing too torn and loody for !is ed, laming t!eir e3*ess of +eal w!i*! !ad spoilt me- w!ereas no dou t t!ey !ad laid into me mu*! as usual, and t!e fault rested mainly upon my indoor s&in, w!i*! gave way more t!an an Ara ?s# So t!e *restfallen *orporal, as t!e youngest and est-loo&ing of t!e guard, !ad to stay e!ind, w!ile t!e ot!ers *arried me down t!e narrow stair into t!e street# (!e *oolness of t!e nig!t on my urning fles!, and t!e unmoved s!ining of t!e stars after t!e !orror of t!e past !our, made me *ry again# (!e soldiers, now free to spea&, warned me t!at men must suffer t!eir offi*ers? wis!es or pay for it, as . !ad >ust done, wit! greater suffering# (!ey too& me over an open spa*e, deserted and dar&, and e!ind t!e Government !ouse to a lean-to wooden room, in w!i*! were many dusty @uilts# An Armenian dresser appeared, to was! and andage me in sleepy !aste# (!en all went away, t!e last soldier delaying y my side a moment to w!isper in !is Druse a**ent t!at t!e door into t!e ne3t room was not lo*&ed# . lay t!ere in a si*& stupor, wit! my !ead a*!ing very mu*!, and growing slowly num wit! *old, till t!e dawn lig!t *ame s!ining t!roug! t!e *ra*&s of t!e s!ed, and a lo*omotive w!istled in t!e station# (!ese and a draining t!irst roug!t me to Me, and . found . was in no pain# ,ain of t!e slig!test !ad een my o session and se*ret terror, from a oy# $ad . now een drugged wit! it, to ewildermentJ 1et t!e first movement was anguis!- in w!i*! . struggled na&edly to my feet, and ro*&ed moaning in wonder t!at it was not a dream, and myself a*& five years ago, a timid re*ruit at ;!alfati, w!ere somet!ing, less staining, of t!e sort !ad !appened# (!e ne3t room was a dispensary# 8n its door !ung a suit of s!oddy *lot!es# . put t!em on slowly and un!andily, e*ause of my swollen wrists- and from t!e drugs *!ose *orrosive su limate, as safeguard against re*apture# (!e window loo&ed on a long lan& wall# Stiffly . *lim ed out, and went s!a&ing down t!e road towards t!e village, past t!e few people already astir# (!ey too& no noti*e) indeed t!ere was not!ing pe*uliar in my dar& road*lot!, red fe+ and slippers- ut it was only y t!e full urge of my tongue silently to myself t!at . refrained from eing foolis! out of s!eer frig!t# Deraa felt in!uman wit! vi*e and *ruelty, and it s!o*&ed me li&e *old water w!en a soldier laug!ed e!ind me

in t!e street# %y t!e ridge were t!e wells, wit! men and women a out t!em# A side troug! was free# :rom its end . s*ooped up a little water in my !ands, and ru ed it over my fa*e) t!en dran&, w!i*! was pre*ious to me) and afterwards wandered along t!e ottom of t!e valley, towards t!e sout!, uno trusively retreating out of sig!t# (!is valley provided t!e !idden road y w!i*! our pro>e*ted raid *ould attain Deraa town se*retly, and surprise t!e (ur&s# So, in es*aping . solved, too late, t!e pro lem w!i*! !ad roug!t me to Deraa# :urt!er on, a Serdi, on !is *amel, overtoo& me !o ling up t!e road towards 0isi # . e3plained t!at . !ad usiness t!ere, and was already footsore# $e !ad pity and mounted me e!ind !im on !is ony animal, to w!i*! . *lung t!e rest of t!e way, learning t!e feelings of my adopted name-saint on !is gridiron# (!e tri e?s tents were >ust in front of t!e village, w!ere . found :ans and $alim an3ious a out me, and *urious to learn !ow . !ad fared# $alim !ad een up to Deraa in t!e nig!t, and &new y t!e la*& of rumour t!at t!e trut! !ad not een dis*overed# . told t!em a merry tale of ri ery and tri*&ery, w!i*! t!ey promised to &eep to t!emselves, laug! ing aloud at t!e simpli*ity of t!e (ur&s# During t!e nig!t . managed to see t!e great stone ridge y 0isi # 0ot t!at my maimed will now *ared a !oot a out t!e Ara "evolt Bor a out anyt!ing ut mending itselfC- yet, sin*e t!e war !ad een a !o y of mine, for *ustom?s sa&e . would for*e myself to pus! it t!roug!# Afterwards we too& !orse, and rode gently and *arefully towards A+ra&, wit!out in*ident, e3*ept t!at a raiding party of 'uld A!? let us and our !orses go unplundered w!en t!ey !eard w!o we were# (!is was an une3pe*ted generosity, t!e 'uld Ali eing not yet of our fellows!ip# (!eir *onsideration Brendered at on*e, as if we !ad deserved men?s !omageC momently stayed me to *arry t!e urden, w!ose *ertainty t!e passing days *onfirmed- !ow in Deraa t!at nig!t t!e *itadel of my integrity !ad een irrevo*a ly lost#

&()PTE" L...I
=ury, t!e Druse 4mir of Sal&!ad, rea*!ed our old *astle >ust efore me on !is first visit to S!erif A!?# $e told us t!e rest of t!e !istory of t!e 4mir A d el ;ader, t!e Algerian# After stealing away from us !e !ad ridden straig!t to t!eir village, and entered in triump!, t!e Ara flag displayed, and !is seven !orsemen *antering a out !im, firing >oy-s!ots# (!e people were astonis!ed, and t!e (ur&is! Governor protested t!at su*! doings were an insult to !im# $e was introdu*ed to A d el ;ader, w!o, sitting in pomp on t!e divan, made a om asti* spee*!, stating t!at t!e S!erif now too& over /e el Druse t!roug! !is agen*y, and all e3isting offi*ials were *onfirmed in t!eir appointments# 0e3t morning !e made a se*ond progress t!roug! t!e distri*t# (!e suffering Governor *omplained again# 4mir A d el ;ader drew !is gold-mounted Me**an sword, and swore t!at wit! it !e would *ut off /emal ,as!a?s !ead# (!e Druses reproved !im, vowing t!at su*! t!ings s!ould not e said in t!eir !ouse efore !is 43*ellen*y t!e Governor# A d el ;ader *alled t!em w!oresons, ingle?s a**idents, sons of a it*!, profiteering *u*&olds and pimps, >etting !is insults road*ast to t!e room-full# (!e Druses got angry# A d el ;ader flung raging out of t!e !ouse and mounted, s!outing t!at w!en !e stamped !is foot all /e el Druse woul d rise on !is side# 'it! !is seven servants, !e spurred down t!e road to Deraa Station, w!i*! !e entered as !e !ad entered Sal&!ad# (!e (ur&s, w!o &new !is madness of old, left !im to play# (!ey dis elieved even !is yarn t!at Ali and . would try t!e 1armu& ridge t!at nig!t# '!en, !owever, we did, t!ey too& a graver view, and sent !im under *ustody to Damas*us# /emal?s rutal !umour was amused, and !e enlarged !im as a utt# A d el ;ader gradually e*ame amena le# (!e (ur&s egan to use !im on*e more as agent provocateur and dissipator of t!e energy generated y t!eir lo*al Syrian nationalists# (!e weat!er was now dreadful, wit! sleet and snow and storms *ontinually) it was o vious t!at at A+ra& t!ere would e not!ing ut tea*!ing and prea*!ing in t!e ne3t mont!s# :or t!is . was not eager# '!en ne*essary, . !ad done my s!are of proselyti+ing fatigues, *onverting as est . *ould) *ons*ious all t!e time of my strangeness, and of t!e in*ongruity of an alien?s advo*ating national li erty# (!e war for me !eld a struggle to side-tra*& t!oug!t, to get into t!e people?s attitude of a**epting t!e

revolt naturally and trustingly# . !ad to persuade myself t!at t!e %ritis! Government *ould really &eep t!e spirit of its promises# 4spe*ially was t!is diffi*ult w!en . was tired and ill, w!en t!e delirious a*tivity of my rain tore to s!reds my patien*e# And t!en, after t!e lunt %eduin, w!o would t!rust in, !ailing me ?ya auruns?, and put t!eir need wit!out *ompliments, t!ese smoot! townspeople were maddening as t!ey *rawled for t!e favour of an audien*e wit! t!eir ,rin*e and %ey and 2ord and Deliverer# Su*! imputed dignities, li&e ody armour in a duel, were no dou t useful) ut un*omforta le, and mean, too# . !ad never een a lofty person) on t!e *ontrary . !ad tried to e a**essi le to everyone, even if it *ontinually felt as t!oug! most of t!em *ame and saw me every day# . !ad striven as elo@uently as . *ould y my own e3ample to &eep plain t!e standard of e3isten*e# . !ad !ad no tents, no *oo&s, no ody-servants- >ust my guards, w!o were fig!ting men, not servile- and e!old t!ese %y+antine s!op&eepers endeavouring to *orrupt our simpli*ityA So . flung away from t!em in a rage, determined to go sout! and see if anyt!ing a*tive *ould e done, in t!e *old weat!er, a out t!e Dead Sea, w!i*! t!e enemy !eld as a tren*! dividing us from ,alestine# My remaining money was !anded over to S!erif Ali, for !is maintenan*e till t!e spring) and t!e .ndians were *ommended to !is *are# ,arti*ularly we oug!t t!em fres! riding-*amels, in *ase t!e need to move *ame suddenly upon t!em in t!e winter) t!oug! t!e daily news of a t!reat y t!e (ur&s against A+ra& was s*ornfully dis*ounted y young Ali# $e and . too& affe*tionate leave of one anot!er# Ali gave me !alf !is wardro e- s!irts, !ead-*lot!s, elts, tuni*s# . gave !im an e@uivalent !alf of mine, and we &issed li&e David and /onat!an, ea*! wearing t!e ot!er?s *lot!es# Afterwards, wit! "a!ail only, on my two est *amels, . stru*& away sout!ward# 'e left A+ra& one evening, riding into a glowing west, w!ile over our !eads s*!ools of *ranes flew into t!e sunset li&e the out-drawn ar s of arrows# .t was toilsome from t!e start# 0ig!t was deep y 'adi %utum, w!ere t!e *onditions e*ame even worse# All t!e plain was wet, and our poor *amels slit!ered and fell time and again# 'e fell as often as t!ey did, ut at least our part of sitting still, etween falls, was easier t!an t!eir part of movement# %y midnig!t we !ad *rossed t!e G!adaf and t!e @uag felt too awful for furt!er progress# Also t!e mis!andling at Deraa !ad left me *uriously faint) my mus*les seemed at on*e pappy and inflamed, and all effort frig!tened me in anti*ipation# So we !alted# 'e slept w!ere we were, in t!e mud) rose up plated wit! it at dawn, and smiled *ra*&ily at one anot!er# (!e wind lew, and t!e ground egan to dry# .t was important, for . wanted to rea*! A&a a efore 'ood?s men !ad left it wit! t!e return *aravan, and t!eir eig!t days? start *alled for speed# My ody?s relu*tan*e to ride !ard was anot!er Band perverseC reason for for*ing t!e mar*!# 9ntil noon we made poor travelling, for t!e *amels still ro&e t!roug! t!e loose *rust of flints, and foundered in t!e red under-*lay# After noon, on t!e !ig!er ground, we did etter, and egan rapidly to *lose t!e w!ite s&y-tents w!i*! were t!e (!lait!a&!wat pea&s# Suddenly s!ots rang out at *lose range, and four mout!ing men das!ed down t!e slope towards us# . stopped my *amel pea*ea ly# Seeing t!is t!ey >umped off, and ran to us randis!ing t!eir arms# (!ey as&ed w!o . was- volunteering t!at t!ey were /a+i $owietat# (!is was an open lie, e*ause t!eir *amel- rands were :ai+# (!ey *overed us wit! rifles at four yards, and told us to dismount# . laug!ed at t!em, w!i*! was good ta*ti*s wit! %eduin at a *risis# (!ey were pu++led# . as&ed t!e loudest if !e &new !is name# $e stared at me, t!in&ing . was mad# $e *ame nearer, wit! !is finger on t!e trigger, and . ent down to !im and w!ispered t!at it must e ? Teras? sin*e no ot!er tradesman *ould e so rude# As . spo&e, . *overed !im wit! a pistol !idden under my *loa&# .t was a s!ooting insult, ut !e was so astonis!ed t!at anyone s!ould provo&e an armed man, as to give up for t!e moment !is t!oug!t of murdering us# $e too& a step a*&, and loo&ed around, fearful t!at t!ere was a reserve somew!ere, to give us *onfiden*e# At on*e . rode off slowly, wit! a *reepy feeling in my a*&, *alling "a!ail to follow# (!ey let !im go too, un!urt# '!en we were a !undred

yards away, t!ey repented t!emselves, and egan to s!oot, ut we das!ed over t!e waters!ed into t!e ne3t depression, and a*ross it *antered more *onfidently into safe ground# :rom t!e ridge at sunset we loo&ed a*& for an instant upon t!e nort!ern plain, as it san& away from us greyly, save t!at !ere and t!ere glowed spe*&s or great splas!es of *rimson fire, t!e refle*tion of t!e dying sun in s!allow pools of rain-water on t!e flats# (!ese eyes of a dripping loody redness were so mu*! more visi le t!an t!e plain t!at t!ey *arried our sig!t miles into t!e !a+e, and seemed to !ang deta*!ed in t!e distant s&y, tilted up, li&e mirage# 'e passed %air long after dar&, w!en only its latest tent-fires still s!one# As we went we saw t!e stars mirrored in a valley ottom, and were a le to water our reat!less *amels in a pool of yesterday?s rain# After t!eir drin& we eased t!em for !alf an !our# (!is nig!t->ourneying was !ard on ot! men and animals# %y day t!e *amels saw t!e irregularities of t!eir pat!, and undulated over t!em) and t!e rider *ould swing !is ody to miss t!e >er& of a long or s!ort stride- ut y nig!t everyt!ing was linded, and t!e mar*! ra*&ed wit! s!o*&s# . !ad a !eavy out of fever on me, w!i*! made me angry, so t!at . paid no attention to "a!ail?s appeals for rest# (!at young man !ad maddened all of us for mont!s y !is a undant vigour, and y laug!ing at our wea&nesses) so t!is time . was determined to ride !im out, s!owing no mer*y# %efore dawn !e was lu ering wit! self-pity) ut softly, lest . !ear !im# Dawn in /efer *ame imper*epti ly t!roug! t!e mist li&e a g!ost of sunlig!t, w!i*! left t!e eart! untou*!ed, and demonstrated itself as a glittering lin& against t!e eyes alone# (!ings at t!eir !eads stood matt against t!e pearl-grey !ori+on, and at t!eir feet melted softly into t!e ground# 8ur s!adows !ad no edge- we dou ted if t!at faint stain upon t!e soil elow was *ast y us or not# .n t!e forenoon we rea*!ed Auda?s *amp) and stopped for a greeting, and a few /auf dates# Auda *ould not provide us a relay of *amels# 'e mounted again to get over t!e railway in t!e early nig!t# "a!ail was past protest now# $e rode eside me w!ite-fa*ed, lea& and silent, wroug!t up only to outstay me, eginning to ta&e a !alf pride in !is pains# 4ven !ad we started fair, !e !ad t!e advantage any!ow over me in strengt!, and now . was nearly finis!ed# Step y step . was yielding myself to a slow a*!e w!i*! *onspired wit! my a ating fever and t!e num monotony of riding to *lose up t!e gate of my senses# . seemed at last approa*!ing t!e insensi ility w!i*! !ad always een eyond my rea*!- ut a dele*ta le land- for one orn so slugtissued t!at not!ing t!is side fainting would let !is spirit free# 0ow . found myself dividing into parts# (!ere was one w!i*! went on riding wisely, sparing or !elping every pa*e of t!e wearied *amel# Anot!er !overing a ove and to t!e rig!t ent down *uriously, and as&ed w!at t!e fles! was doing# (!e fles! gave no answer, for, indeed, it was *ons*ious only of a ruling impulse to &eep on and on) ut a t!ird garrulous one tal&ed and wondered, *riti*al of t!e ody?s self-infli*ted la our, and *ontemptuous of t!e reason for effort# (!e nig!t passed in t!ese mutual *onversations# My unseeing eyes saw t!e dawn-goal in front) t!e !ead of t!e pass, elow w!i*! t!at ot!er world of "umm lay out li&e a sunlit map) and my parts de ated t!at t!e struggle mig!t e wort!y, ut t!e end foolis!ness and a re- irt! of trou le# (!e spent ody toiled on doggedly and too& no !eed, @uite rig!tly, for t!e divided selves said not!ing w!i*! . was not *apa le of t!in&ing in *old lood) t!ey were all my natives# (elesius, taug!t y some su*! e3perien*e, split up t!e soul# $ad !e gone on, to t!e furt!est limit of e3!austion, !e would !ave seen !is *on*eived regiment of t!oug!ts and a*ts and feelings ran&ed around !im as separate *reatures) eyeing, li&e vultures, t!e passing in t!eir midst of t!e *ommon t!ing w!i*! gave t!em life# "a!ail *olle*ted me out of my deat!-sleep y >er&ing my !eadstall and stri&ing me, w!ile !e s!outed t!at we !ad lost our dire*tion, and were wandering toward t!e (ur&is! lines at A a el 2issan# $e was rig!t, and we !ad to ma&e a long *ut a*& to rea*! %atra safely# 'e wal&ed down t!e steeper portions of t!e pass, and t!en stum led along 'adi $afira# .n its midst a gallant little $oweiti, aged per!aps fourteen, darted out against us, finger on trigger, and told us to stand and e3plain) w!i*! we did, laug!ing# (!e lad lus!ed, and pleaded t!at !is fat!er?s *amels &ept !im always in t!e field so t!at !e !ad not &nown us eit!er y sig!t or y des*ription# $e egged t!at we would not do !im s!ame y etraying !is error# (!e in*ident ro&e t!e tension etween "a!ail and myself) and, *!atting, we rode

out upon t!e Gaa# (!ere under t!e tamaris& we passed t!e middle !our of t!e day in sleep, sin*e y our slowness in t!e mar*! over %atra we !ad lost t!e possi ility of rea*!ing A&a a wit!in t!e t!ree days from A+ra&# (!e rea&ing of our intention we too& @uietly# "umm?s glory would not let a man waste !imself in feveris! regrets# 'e rode up its valley in t!e early afternoon) easier now and e3*!anging >ests wit! one anot!er, as t!e long winter evening *rept down# '!en we got past t!e ;!a+ail in t!e as*ent we found t!e sun veiled e!ind level an&s of low *louds in t!e west, and en>oyed a ri*! twilig!t of t!e 4nglis! sort# .n .tm t!e mist steamed up gently from t!e soil, and *olle*ted into wool-w!ite masses in ea*! !ollow# 'e rea*!ed A&a a at midnig!t, and slept outside t!e *amp till rea&fast, w!en . *alled on /oy*e, and found t!e *aravan not yet ready to start- indeed 'ood was only a few days returned# 2ater *ame urgent orders for me to go up at on*e to ,alestine y air# Croil flew me to Sue+# (!en*e . went up to Allen y?s !ead@uarters eyond Ga+a# $e was so full of vi*tories t!at my s!ort statement t!at we !ad failed to *arry a 1armu& ridge was suffi*ient, and t!e misera le details of failure *ould remain *on*ealed# '!ile . was still wit! !im, word *ame from C!etwode t!at /erusalem !ad fallen) and Allen y made ready to enter in t!e offi*ial manner w!i*! t!e *at!oli* imagination of Mar& Sy&es !ad devised# $e was good enoug!, alt!oug! . !ad done not!ing for t!e su**ess, to let Clayton ta&e me along as !is staff offi*er for t!e day# (!e personal Staff tri*&ed me out in t!eir spare *lot!es till . loo&ed li&e a ma>or in t!e %ritis! Army# Dalmeny lent me red ta s, 4vans !is rass !at) so t!at . !ad t!e gauds of my appointment in t!e *eremony of t!e /affa gate, w!i*! for me was t!e supreme moment of t!e war#

,##- SE+E!. The $ead Sea &ampai/n

&()PTE"S L...II T# .&I
After the capture of .erusalem, Allenby, to relieve his right, assigned us a limited ob&ective. 2e began well9 but when we reached the 1ead Sea, bad weather, bad temper and division of purpose blunted our offensive spirit and broke up our force. $ had a misunderstanding with *eid, threw in my hand, and returned to :alestine reporting that we had failed, and asking the favour of other employment. Allenby was in the hopeful midst of a great scheme for the coming spring. ,e sent me back at once to +eisal with new powers and duties.

&()PTE" L...II
S!amefa*ed wit! triump!--w!i*! was not so mu*! a triump! as !omage y Allen y to t!e mastering spirit of t!e pla*e--we drove a*& to S!ea?s !ead@uarters# (!e aides pus!ed a out, and from great as&ets drew a lun*!, varied, ela orate and su**ulent# 8n us fell a s!ort spa*e of @uiet, to e s!attered y Monsieur ,i*ot, t!e :ren*! politi*al representative permitted y Allen y to mar*! eside Clayton in t!e entry, w!o said in !is fluting voi*e- ?And to-morrow, my dear general, . will ta&e t!e ne*essary steps to set up *ivil government in t!is town#? .t was t!e ravest word on re*ord) a silen*e followed, as w!en t!ey opened t!e sevent! seal in !eaven# Salad, *!i*&en mayonnaise and foie gras sandwi*!es !ung in our wet mout!s unmun*!ed, w!ile we turned to Allen y and gaped# 4ven !e seemed for t!e moment at a loss# 'e egan to fear t!at t!e idol mig!t etray a frailty# %ut !is fa*e grew red- !e swallowed, !is *!in *oming forward Bin

t!e way we lovedC, w!ilst !e said, grimly, ?.n t!e military +one t!e only aut!ority is t!at of t!e Commander-in-C!ief--myself#? ?%ut Sir Grey, Sir 4dward Grey?# # # stammered M# ,i*ot# $e was *ut s!ort# ?Sir 4dward Grey referred to t!e *ivil government w!i*! will e esta lis!ed w!en . >udge t!at t!e military situation permits#? And y *ar again, t!roug! t!e suns!ine of a great t!an&fulness, we sped down t!e saluting mountain-side into our *amp# (!ere Allen y and Dawnay told me t!e %ritis! were mar*!ed and foug!t nearly to a standstill, in t!e ledged and pre*ipitous !ills, s!ell-torn and ullet-spattered, amid w!i*! t!ey wrestled wit! t!e (ur&s along a line from "amle! to /erusalem# So t!ey would as& us in t!e lull to *ome nort! towards t!e Dead Sea until, if possi le, we lin&ed rig!t up to its sout!ern end, and renewed t!e *ontinuous front# :ortunately, t!is !ad already een dis*ussed wit! :eisal, w!o was preparing t!e *onvergent move on (afile!, its ne*essary first step# .t was t!e moment to as& Allen y w!at !e would do ne3t# $e t!oug!t !e was immo ili+ed till t!e middle of :e ruary, w!en !e would pus! down to /eri*!o# Mu*! enemy food was eing lig!tered up t!e Dead Sea, and !e as&ed me to note t!is traffi* as a se*ond o >e*tive if t!e effort to (afile! prevailed# ., !oping to improve on t!is, replied t!at, s!ould t!e (ur&s e *ontinually s!a&en, we mig!t >oin !im at t!e nort! end of t!e Dead Sea# .f !e *ould put :eisal?s fifty tons a day of supplies, stores and ammunition into /eri*!o, we would a andon A&a a and transfer our !ead@uarters to t!e /ordan <alley# (!e Ara regulars, now some t!ree t!ousand strong, would suffi*e to ma&e our retention of t!e river?s eastern an& reasona ly se*ure# (!is idea *ommended itself to Allen y and Dawnay# (!ey *ould almost promise us su*! fa*ilities w!en t!e railway rea*!ed /erusalem some time towards t!e end of t!e *oming /anuary# 'e mig!t e a le to move our ase two mont!s after t!e line was t!roug!# (!is tal& left us a *lear *ourse of operations# (!e Ara s were to rea*! t!e Dead Sea as soon as possi le) to stop t!e transport of food up it to /eri*!o efore t!e middle of :e ruary) and to arrive at t!e /ordan efore t!e end of Mar*!# Sin*e t!e first movement would ta&e a mont! to start, and all preliminaries were in !and, . *ould ta&e a !oliday# So . went down to Cairo, and stayed t!ere a wee& e3perimenting wit! insulated *a le and e3plosives# After t!e wee& it seemed est to return to A&a a, w!ere we arrived on C!ristmas Day) to find Snagge, as senior offi*er in A&a a, entertaining t!e %ritis! *ommunity to dinner# $e !ad s*reened-in t!e after de*& and uilt ta les, w!i*! too& t!e !osts and t!e twenty-odd guests easily# Snagge stood godfat!er to t!e land, in !ospitality, in t!e loan of !is s!ip?s do*tor and wor&s!op, and in *!eerfulness# .n t!e early days of t!e revolt it !ad een t!e ,ardinge w!i*! played !is role of providen*e to us# 8n*e, at 1en o, :eisal !ad ridden in from t!e !ills on a streaming day of winter, *old, wet, misera le and tired# Captain 2in erry sent a laun*! as!ore and invited !im to t!e s!ip, w!ere !e found, waiting for !im, a warm *a in, a pea*eful meal, and a ountiful at!# Afterwards !e lay a*& in an arm-*!air, smo&ing one of !is *onstant *igarettes, and remar&ed dreamily to me t!at now !e &new w!at t!e furnis!ings of !eaven would e# /oy*e told me t!at t!ings were well# (!e situation !ad sensi ly *!anged sin*e Maulud?s vi*tory# (!e (ur&s !ad *on*entrated in A a el 2issan# 'e were distra*ting t!em y raids against t!e line sout! of Maan# A dulla and A!? were doing t!e same near Medina) and t!e (ur&s, eing pin*!ed to guard t!e railway, !ad to draw men from A a el 2issan to strengt!en wea& se*tions# Maulud oldly t!rew out posts to pla*es on t!e plateau, and egan to !arry t!e supply *aravans from Maan# $e was !ampered y t!e intense *old, t!e rain and snow on t!e !eig!ts# Some of !is ill-*lad men a*tually died of e3posure# %ut t!e (ur&s lost e@ually in men and mu*! more in transport, sin*e t!eir mangy *amels died off rapidly in t!e storms and mud# (!e loss straitened t!em in food-*arrying and involved furt!er wit!drawals from A a el 2issan# At last t!ey were too wea& to !old t!e wide position, and, early in /anuary, Maulud was a le to for*e

t!em out towards Mreig!a# (!e %eduin *aug!t t!e (ur&s moving, and *ut up t!e !indmost attalion# (!is t!rew t!e (ur&s a*& pre*ipitately, to 9!eida, only si3 miles from Maan, and w!en we pressed after mena*ingly, t!ey wit!drew to Semna, t!e outpost line of Maan, t!ree miles out# So y /anuary t!e sevent! Maulud was *ontaining Maan dire*tly# ,rosperity gave us ten days? leisure) and as /oy*e and myself were rarely at li erty toget!er we de*ided to *ele rate t!e o**asion y ta&ing a *ar-trip down t!e mud-flats towards Mudowwara# (!e *ars were now at Guweira, in permanent *amp# Gilman and Dowsett, wit! t!eir *rews and fifty 4gyptian soldiers, !ad spent mont!s in 'adi .tm, uilding, li&e engineers, a motor road t!roug! t!e gorge# .t !ad een a great wor&, and was now in order to Guweira# So we too& t!e "olls tenders, filled t!em wit! spare tyres, petrol, and food for four days, and set off on our e3ploring trip# (!e mud-flats were one-dry and afforded perfe*t going# 8ur tyres left only a faint w!ite s*ar a*ross t!eir velvet surfa*e, as we twisted a out t!e spa*ious smoot!ness at speed, s&irting *lumps of tamaris& and roaring along under t!e great sandstone *rags# (!e drivers re>oi*ed for t!e first time in nine mont!s, and flung forward a reast in a mad ra*e# (!eir speedometers tou*!ed si3ty-five) not ad for *ars w!i*! !ad een mont!s ploug!ing t!e desert wit! only su*! running repairs as t!e drivers !ad time and tools to give t!em# A*ross t!e sandy ne*& from t!e first flat to t!e se*ond we uilt a *orduroy road of rus!wood# '!en t!is was ready, t!e *ars *ame steaming and !issing along it, dangerously fast to avoid getting stu*&, ro*&ing over !ummo*&s in a style w!i*! loo&ed fatal for springs# $owever, we &new it was nearly impossi le to rea& a "olls-"oy*e, and so were sorrier for t!e drivers, (!omas, "olls and Sanderson# (!e >olts tore t!e steering-w!eel from t!eir grip, and left t!em reat!less wit! leeding !ands after t!e *rossing# 'e lun*!ed and rested, and t!en !ad anot!er urst of speed, wit! a wild diversion in t!e middle w!en a ga+elle was sig!ted over t!e flat, and two of t!e great *ars lur*!ed aside in unavai ling *!ase# At t!e end of t!is se*ond flat, t!e Gaa of Disi, we !ad a roug! mile to t!e t!ird flat of A u Sawana, a*ross w!i*! we !ad a final glorious sprint of fifteen miles, over t!e mud and over t!e e@ually firm flint plains eyond# 'e slept t!ere t!at *!illy nig!t, !appy wit! ully eef and tea and is*uit, wit! 4nglis! tal& and laug!ter round t!e fire, golden wit! its s!ower of spar&s from t!e fier*e rus!wood# '!en t!ese t!ings tired, t!ere was soft sand eneat! our odies and two lan&ets to wrap ourselves in# :or me it was a !oliday, wit! not an Ara near, efore w!om . must play out my tedious part# .n t!e morning we ran on nearly to Mudowwara, finding t!e ground-surfa*e e3*ellent to t!e waters!ed# So our re*onnaissan*e !ad een a @ui*& and easy su**ess# At on*e we turned a*&, to fet*! t!e armoured *ars and underta&e an immediate operation, wit! t!e !elp of t!e mountain gun se*tion on (al ots# (!is se*tion was an oddment, w!i*! General Clayton !ad seen in 4gypt, and !ad sent down to us in an inspired moment# .ts (al ots, spe*ially geared for !eavy wor&, *arried two ten-pounders wit! %ritis! gunners# .t was wi*&ed to give good men su*! rotten tools) yet t!eir spirit seemed !ardly affe*ted y t!e inferior weapons# (!eir *ommander, %rodie, was a silent S*otsman, never very uoyant and never too an3ious) a man w!o found diffi*ulties s!ameful to noti*e, and w!o stamped !imself on !is fellows# $owever !ard t!e duty given t!em, t!ey always atta*&ed it wit! su*! untrou led determination t!at t!eir will prevailed# 8n every o**asion and in every *risis t!ey would e surely in pla*e at t!eir moment, perspiring ut impertur a le, wit! never a word in e3planation or *omplaint# 4ig!t imposing *ars drove off from Guweira ne3t day, and rea*!ed our old stopping-pla*e e!ind Mudowwara y sundown# (!is was e3*ellent) and we *amped, intending to find a road to t!e railway in t!e morning# A**ordingly we set off early in a "olls tender and sear*!ed t!roug! t!e very nasty low !ills till evening, w!en we were in pla*e e!ind t!e last ridge, a ove (ell S!a!m, t!e se*ond station nort!ward from Mudowwara#

'e !ad tal&ed vaguely of mining a train, ut t!e *ountry was too open, and enemy lo*&!ouses numerous# .nstead we determined to atta*& a little entren*!ed wor& e3a*tly opposite our !iding-pla*e# So late in new year?s morning, a day as *ool as a good summer?s day in 4ngland, after a pleasant rea&fast we rolled gently over a stony plain to a !illo*& w!i*! overloo&ed t!e (ur&is! post# /oy*e and . got out of our *ars and *lim ed its summit, to loo& on# /oy*e was in *!arge, and for t!e first time . was at a fig!t as spe*tator# (!e novelty was most en>oya le# Armoured *ar wor& seemed fig!ting de lu3e, for our troops, eing steel-*overed, *ould *ome to no !urt# A**ordingly we made a field-day of it li&e t!e est regular generals, sitting in la*oni* *onferen*e on our !ill-top and wat*!ing t!e attle intently t!roug! ino*ulars# (!e (al ot attery opened t!e affair, *oming spiritedly into a*tion >ust elow our point) w!ile t!e t!ree armoured *ars *rawled a out t!e flan&s of t!e (ur&is! eart!wor& li&e great dogs nosing out a trail# (!e enemy soldiers popped up t!eir !eads to ga+e, and everyt!ing was very friendly and *urious, till t!e *ars slewed round t!eir <i*&ers and egan to spray t!e tren*!es# (!en t!e (ur&s, reali+ing t!at it was an atta*&, got down e!ind t!eir parapets and fired at t!e *ars raggedly# .t was a out as deadly as trying to warm a r!ino*eros wit! ird-s!ot- after a w!ile t!ey turned t!eir attention to %rodie?s guns and peppered t!e eart! a out t!em wit! ullets# 8 viously t!ey did not mean to surrender, and o viously we !ad no means at disposal to *ompel t!em# So we drew off, *ontented wit! !aving prowled up and down t!e line, and proved t!e surfa*e !ard enoug! for *ar-operations at deli erate speed# $owever, t!e men loo&ed for more, and to !umour t!em we drove sout!ward till opposite S!a!m# (!ere %rodie *!ose a gun-position at two t!ousand yards and egan to t!row s!ell after s!ell neatly into t!e station area# $ating t!is, t!e (ur&s tri*&led off to a lo*&!ouse, w!ile t!e *ars put leisurely ullets t!roug! t!e station doors and windows# (!ey mig!t !ave entered it safely, !ad t!ere een point in doing so# As it was we *alled every ody off again, and returned into our !iding-!ills# 8ur an3iety and foret!oug!t !ad een all to rea*! t!e railway t!roug! t!e manifold diffi*ulties of t!e plains and !ills# '!en we did rea*! it, we were entirely unready for a*tion, wit! not a *on*eption of w!at our ta*ti*s or met!od s!ould e- yet we learned mu*! from t!is very inde*ision# (!e *ertainty t!at in a day from Guweira we *ould e operating along t!e railway, meant t!at traffi* lay at our mer*y# All t!e (ur&s in Ara ia *ould not fig!t a single armoured *ar in open *ountry# (!ere y t!e situation of Medina, already ad, e*ame !opeless# (!e German Staff saw it, and after :al&en!ayn?s visit to Maan, t!ey repeatedly urged a andonment of everyt!ing sout! of t!at point) ut t!e old (ur& party valued Medina as t!e last remnant of t!eir sovereignty in t!e $oly ,la*es, t!eir surviving *laim upon t!e Calip!ate# Sentiment swung t!em to t!e de*ision, against military e3pedien*y# (!e %ritis! seemed *uriously dense a out Medina# (!ey insisted t!at it must e *aptured, and lavis!ed money and e3plosives on t!e operations w!i*! Ali and A dulla *ontinually undertoo& from t!eir 1en o ase# '!en . pleaded to t!e *ontrary, t!ey treated my view as a witty parado3# A**ordingly, to e3*use our deli erate ina*tivity in t!e nort!, we !ad to ma&e a s!ow of impoten*e, w!i*! gave t!em to understand t!at t!e Ara s were too poltroon to *ut t!e line near Maan and &eep it *ut# (!is reason gratified t!eir sense of fitness, for soldiers, always ready to elieve ill of native a*tion, too& its inferiority as a *ompliment# So we attened on our ill reputation, w!i*! was an ungenerous stratagem, ut t!e easiest# (!e staff &new so mu*! more of war t!an . did t!at t!ey refused to learn from me of t!e strange *onditions in w!i*! Ara irregulars !ad to a*t) and . *ould not e ot!ered to set up a &indergarten of t!e imagination for t!eir enefit#

&()PTE" L...III
8n our return to A&a a domesti* affairs engaged t!e remaining free days# My part mostly *on*erned t!e odyguard w!i*! . formed for private prote*tion, as rumour gradually magnified my importan*e# 8n our first going up *ountry from "a eg! and 1en o, t!e (ur&s !ad een *urious- afterwards t!ey

were annoyed) to t!e point of as*ri ing to t!e 4nglis! t!e dire*tion and motive for*e of t!e Ara "evolt, mu*! as we used to flatter ourselves y attri uting t!e (ur&is! effi*ien*y to German influen*e#

$owever, t!e (ur&s said it often enoug! to ma&e it an arti*le of fait!, and egan to offer a reward of one !undred pounds for a %ritis! offi*er alive or dead# As time went on t!ey not only in*reased t!e general figure, ut made a spe*ial id for me# After t!e *apture of A&a a t!e pri*e e*ame respe*ta le) w!ile after we lew up /emal ,as!a t!ey put Ali and me at t!e !ead of t!eir list) wort! twenty t!ousand pounds alive or ten t!ousand dead# 8f *ourse, t!e offer was r!etori*al) wit! no *ertainty w!et!er in gold or paper, or t!at t!e money would e paid at all# Still, per!aps, it mig!t >ustify some *are# . egan to in*rease my people to a troop, adding su*! lawless men as . found, fellows w!ose das! !ad got t!em into trou le elsew!ere# . needed !ard riders and !ard livers) men proud of t!emselves, and wit!out family# %y good fortune t!ree or four of t!is sort >oined me at t!e first, setting a tone and standard# 8ne afternoon, . was @uietly reading in Mars!all?s tent at A&a a B. lodged wit! Mars!all, our S*ottis! do*tor, as often as . was in *ampC w!en t!ere entered over t!e noiseless sand an Ageyly, t!in, dar&, and s!ort, ut most gorgeously dressed# $e *arried on !is s!oulder t!e ri*!est $asa saddle- ag . !ad ever seen# .ts woollen tapestry of green and s*arlet, w!ite, orange and lue, !ad tassels woven over its sides in five rows, and from t!e middle and ottom !ung five-foot streamers, of geometri* pattern, tasselled and fringed# "espe*tfully greeting me, t!e young man t!rew t!e saddle- ag on my *arpet, saying ?1ours? and disappeared suddenly, as !e !ad *ome# 0e3t day, !e returned wit! a *amel-saddle of e@ual eauty, t!e long rass !orns of its *antles adorned wit! e3@uisite old 1emeni engraving# 8n t!e t!ird day !e reappeared empty-!anded, in a poor *otton s!irt, and san& down in a !eap efore me, saying !e wis!ed to enter my servi*e# $e loo&ed odd wit!out !is sil& ro es) for !is fa*e, s!rivelled and torn wit! smallpo3, and !airless, mig!t !ave een of any age) w!ile !e !ad a lad?s supple ody, and somet!ing of a lad?s re*&lessness in !is *arriage# $is long la*& !air was *arefully raided into t!ree s!ining plaits down ea*! *!ee&# $is eyes were wea&, *losed up to slits# $is mout! was sensual, loose, wet) and gave !im a good-!umoured, !alf *yni*al e3pression# . as&ed !im !is name) !e replied A dulla, surnamed el 0a!a i, or t!e "o er) t!e ni*&name, !e said, was an in!eritan*e from !is respe*ted fat!er# $is own adventures !ad een unprofita le# $e was orn in %oreida, and w!ile young !ad suffered from t!e *ivil power for !is

impiety# '!en !alf-grown, a misfortune in a married woman?s !ouse !ad made !im leave !is native town, in a !urry, and ta&e servi*e wit! i n Saud, 4mir of 0e>d# .n t!is servi*e !is !ard swearing earned las!es and imprisonment# Conse@uently !e deserted to ;uweit, w!ere again !e !ad een amorous# 8n !is release !e !ad moved to $ail, and enrolled !imself among t!e retainers of i n "as!id, t!e 4mir# 9nfortunately t!ere !e !ad disli&ed !is offi*er to t!e point of stri&ing !im in pu li* wit! a *amel-sti*&# "eturn was made in &ind) and, after a slow re*overy in prison, !e !ad on*e more een t!rust friendless on t!e world# (!e $e>a+ "ailway was eing uilt, and to its wor&s !e !ad *ome in sear*! of fortune- ut a *ontra*tor do*&ed !is wages for sleeping at noonday# $e retorted y do*&ing t!e *ontra*tor of !is !ead# (!e (ur&is! Government interfered, and !e found life very !ard in t!e prison at Medina# $owever, t!roug! a window, !e *ame to Me**a, and for !is proved integrity and *amel-mans!ip was made post-*arrier etween Me**a and /idda# (o t!is employ !e settled down, laying aside !is young e3travagan*es, ringing to Me**a !is fat!er and mot!er and setting t!em up in a s!op to wor& for !im, wit! t!e *apital provided y *ommission from mer*!ants and ro ers# After a year?s prosperity !e was waylaid, losing !is *amel and its *onsignment# (!ey sei+ed !is s!op in *ompensation# :rom t!e wre*& !e saved enoug! to fit !imself out as a man at arms, in t!e S!erifian *amel-poli*e# Merit made !im a petty offi*er, ut too mu*! attention was drawn to !is se*tion y a !a it of fig!ting wit! daggers, and y !is foul mout!) a maw of depravity w!i*! !ad eaten filt! in t!e stews of every *apital in Ara ia# 8n*e too often !is lips trem led wit! !umour, sardoni*, sala*ious, lying) and w!en redu*ed, !e *!arged !is downfall to a >ealous Atei i, w!om !e sta ed in Court efore t!e eyes of t!e outraged S!erif S!arraf# S!arraf?s stern sense of pu li* de*en*y punis!ed A dulla y t!e severest of !is *!astisements, from w!i*! !e very nearly died# '!en well enoug!, !e entered S!arraf?s servi*e# 8n t!e out rea& of war !e e*ame orderly to i n Da&!il, *aptain of t!e Ageyl wit! :eisal# $is reputation grew- ut t!e mutiny at 'e>! turned i n Da&!il into an am assador# A dulla missed t!e *omrades!ip of t!e ran&s, and i n Da&!il !ad given !im a written *!ara*ter to enter my servi*e# (!e letter said t!at for two years !e !ad een fait!ful, ut disrespe*tful) t!e wont of sons of s!ame# $e was t!e most e3perien*ed Ageyli, !aving served every Ara ian prin*e and !aving een dismissed ea*! employment, after stripes and prison, for offen*es of too great individuality# . n Da&!il said t!at t!e 0a!a i rode se*ond to !imself, was a master->udge of *amels, and as rave as any son of Adam) easily, sin*e !e was too lind-eyed to see danger# .n fa*t, !e was t!e perfe*t retainer, and . engaged !im instantly# .n my servi*e only on*e did !e taste *ells# (!at was at Allen y?s !ead@uarters, w!en a despairing provost-mars!al rang up to say t!at a wild man, wit! weapons, found sitting on t!e Commander-inC!ief?s doorstep, !ad een led wit!out riot to t!e guard-room, w!ere !e was eating oranges as t!oug! for a wager, and pro*laiming !imself my son, one of :eisal?s dogs# 8ranges were running s!ort# So A dulla e3perien*ed !is first telep!one *onversation# $e told t!e A#,#M# t!at su*! a fitting would e a *omfort in all prisons, and too& a *eremonious leave# $e s*outed a solutely t!e notion t!at !e mig!t wal& a out "amle! unarmed, and was given a pass to ma&e lawful !is sword, dagger, pistol, and rifle# $is first use of t!is pass was to re-visit t!e guard-room wit! *igarettes for t!e military poli*e# $e e3amined t!e appli*ants for my servi*e, and, t!an&s to !im and to t!e Gaagi, my ot!er *ommander Ba stiff man of normal offi*er *utC, a wonderful gang of e3perts grew a out me# (!e %ritis! at A&a a *alled t!em *ut-t!roats) ut t!ey *ut t!roats only to my order# ,er!aps in ot!ers? eyes it was a fault t!at t!ey would re*ogni+e no aut!ority ut mine# 1et w!en . was away t!ey were &ind to Ma>or Mars!all, and would !old !im in in*ompre!ensi le tal& a out points of *amels, t!eir reeds and ailments, from dawn till nig!t time# Mars!all was very patient) and two or t!ree of t!em would sit attentive y !is edside, from t!e first daylig!t, waiting to *ontinue !is edu*ation as soon as !e e*ame *ons*ious#

A good !alf Bnearly fifty of t!e ninetyC were Ageyl, t!e nervous 9m er 0e>di villagers w!o made t!e *olour and t!e parade in :eisal?s army, and w!ose *are for t!eir riding-*amels was su*! a feature of t!eir servi*e# (!ey would *all t!em y name, from a !undred yards away, and leave t!em in *!arge of t!e &it w!en t!ey dismounted# (!e Ageyl, eing mer*enaries, would not do well unless well paid, and for la*& of t!at *ondition !ad fallen into disrepute- yet t!e ravest single effort of t!e Ara war elonged to t!at one of t!em w!o twi*e swam down t!e su terranean water-*onduit into Medina, and returned wit! a full report of t!e invested town# . paid my men si3 pounds a mont!, t!e standard army wage for a man and *amel, ut mounted t!em on my own animals, so t!at t!e money was *lear in*ome- t!is made t!e servi*e envia le, and put t!e eager spirits of t!e *amp at my disposal# :or my time-ta le?s sa&e, sin*e . was more usy t!an most, my rides were long, !ard and sudden# (!e ordinary Ara , w!ose *amel represented !alf !is wealt!, *ould not afford to founder it y travelling my speed- also su*! riding was painful for t!e man# Conse@uently, . !ad to !ave wit! me pi*&ed riders, on my own easts# 'e oug!t at long pri*es t!e fastest and strongest *amels to e o tained# 'e *!ose t!em for speed and power, no matter !ow !ard and e3!austing t!ey mig!t e under t!e saddle- indeed, often we *!ose t!e !ard-pa*ed as t!e more enduring# (!ey were *!anged or rested in our own *amel-!ospital w!en t!ey e*ame t!in- and t!eir riders were treated li&ewise# (!e Gaagi !eld ea*! man odily responsi le for !is mount?s *ondition, and for t!e fitness of !is saddlery# :ellows were very proud of eing in my odyguard, w!i*! developed a professionalism almost flam oyant# (!ey dressed li&e a ed of tulips, in every *olour ut w!ite) for t!at was my *onstant wear, and t!ey did not wis! to seem to presume# .n !alf an !our t!ey would ma&e ready for a ride of si3 wee&s, t!at eing t!e limit for w!i*! food *ould e *arried at t!e saddle- ow# %aggage *amels t!ey s!ran& from as a disgra*e# (!ey would travel day and nig!t at my w!im, and made it a point of !onour never to mention fatigue# .f a new man grum led, t!e ot!ers would silen*e !im, or *!ange t!e *urrent of !is *omplaint, rutally# (!ey foug!t li&e devils, w!en . wanted, and sometimes w!en . did not, espe*ially wit! (ur&s or wit! outsiders# :or one guardsman to stri&e anot!er was t!e last offen*e# (!ey e3pe*ted e3travagant reward and e3travagant punis!ment# (!ey made oast t!roug!out t!e army of t!eir pains and gains# %y t!is unreason in ea*! degree t!ey were &ept apt for any effort, any ris&# A dulla and t!e Gaagi ruled t!em, under my aut!ority, wit! a savagery palliated only y t!e power of ea*! man to @uit t!e servi*e if !e wis!ed# 1et we !ad ut one resignation# (!e ot!ers, t!oug! adoles*ents full of *arnal passion, tempted y t!is irregular life, well-fed, e3er*ised, ri*!, seemed to san*tify t!eir ris&, to e fas*inated y t!eir suffering# Servitude, li&e ot!er *ondu*t, was profoundly modified to 4astern minds y t!eir o session wit! t!e antit!esis etween fles! and spirit# (!ese lads too& pleasure in su ordination) in degrading t!e ody- so as to t!row into greater relief t!eir freedom in e@uality of mind- almost t!ey preferred servitude as ri*!er in e3perien*e t!an aut!ority, and less inding in daily *are# Conse@uently t!e relation of master and man in Ara ia was at on*e more free and more su >e*t t!an . !ad e3perien*ed elsew!ere# Servants were afraid of t!e sword of >usti*e and of t!e steward?s w!ip, not e*ause t!e one mig!t put an ar itrary term to t!eir e3isten*e, and t!e ot!er print red rivers of pain a out t!eir sides, ut e*ause t!ese were t!e sym ols and t!e means to w!i*! t!eir o edien*e was vowed# (!ey !ad a gladness of a asement, a freedom of *onsent to yield to t!eir master t!e last servi*e and degree of t!eir fles! and lood, e*ause t!eir spirits were e@ual wit! !is and t!e *ontra*t voluntary# Su*! oundless engagement pre*luded !umilia tion, repining and regret# .n t!is pledging of t!eir enduran*e, it disgra*ed men if, from wea&ness of nerve or insuffi*ien*y of *ourage, t!ey fell s!ort of t!e *all# ,ain was to t!em a solvent, a *at!arti*, almost a de*oration, to e fairly worn w!ile t!ey survived it# :ear, t!e strongest motive in slot!ful man, ro&e down wit! us, sin*e love for a *ause--or for a person--was aroused# :or su*! an o >e*t, penalties were dis*ounted, and loyalty e*ame open-eyed, not o edient# (o it men dedi*ated t!eir eing, and in its possession

t!ey !ad no room for virtue or vi*e# C!eerfully t!ey nouris!ed it upon w!at t!ey were) gave it t!eir lives) and, greater t!an t!at, t!e lives of t!eir fellows!ip- it eing many times !arder to offer t!an to endure sa*rifi*e# (o our strained eyes, t!e ideal, !eld in *ommon, seemed to trans*end t!e personal, w!i*! efore !ad een our normal measure of t!e world# Did t!is instin*t point to our !appily a**epting final a sorption in some pattern w!erein t!e dis*ordant selves mig!t find reasona le, inevita le purposeJ 1et t!is very trans*ending of individual frailty made t!e ideal transient# .ts prin*iple e*ame A*tivity, t!e primal @uality, e3ternal to our atomi* stru*ture, w!i*! we *ould simulate only y unrest of mind and soul and ody, eyond !olding point# So always t!e ideality of t!e ideal vanis!ed, leaving its wors!ippers e3!austed- !olding for false w!at t!ey !ad on*e pursued# $owever, for t!e time t!e Ara s were possessed, and *ruelty of governan*e answered t!eir need# %esides, t!ey were lood enemies of t!irty tri es, and only for my !and over t!em would !ave murdered in t!e ran&s ea*! day# (!eir feuds prevented t!em *om ining against me) w!ile t!eir unli&eness gave me sponsors and spies w!erever . went or sent, etween A&a a and Damas*us, etween %eers!e a and %agdad# .n my servi*e nearly si3ty of t!em died# 'it! @uaint >usti*e, events for*ed me to live up to my odyguard, to e*ome as !ard, as sudden, as !eedless# (!e odds against me were !eavy, and t!e *limate *ogged t!e die# .n t!e s!ort winter . outdid t!em, wit! my allies of t!e frost and snow- in t!e !eat t!ey outdid me# .n enduran*e t!ere was less disparity# :or years efore t!e war . !ad made myself trim y *onstant *arelessness# . !ad learned to eat mu*! one time) t!en to go two, t!ree, or four days wit!out food) and after to overeat# . made it a rule to avoid rules in food) and y a *ourse of e3*eptions a**ustomed myself to no *ustom at all# So, organi*ally, . was effi*ient in t!e desert, felt neit!er !unger nor surfeit, and was not distra*ted y t!oug!t of food# 8n t!e mar*! . *ould go dry etween wells, and, li&e t!e Ara s, *ould drin& greatly to-day for t!e t!irst of yesterday and of to-morrow# .n t!e same way, t!oug! sleep remained for me t!e ri*!est pleasure in t!e world, . supplied its pla*e y t!e uneasy swaying in t!e saddle of a nig!t-mar*!, or failed of it for nig!t after la orious nig!t wit!out undue fatigue# Su*! li erties *ame from years of *ontrol B*ontempt of use mig!t well e t!e lesson of our man!oodC, and t!ey fitted me pe*uliarly for our wor&- ut, of *ourse, in me t!ey *ame !alf y training, !alf y trying, out of mi3ed *!oi*e and poverty, not effortlessly, as wit! t!e Ara s# 1et in *ompensation stood my energy of motive# (!eir less taut wills flagged efore mine flagged, and y *omparison made me seem toug! and a*tive# .nto t!e sour*es of my energy of will . dared not pro e# (!e *on*eption of antit!eti*al mind and matter, w!i*! was asi* in t!e Ara self-surrender, !elped me not at all# . a*!ieved surrender Bso far as . did a*!ieve itC y t!e very opposite road, t!roug! my notion t!at mental and p!ysi*al were insepara ly one- t!at our odies, t!e universe, our t!oug!ts and ta*tilities were *on*eived in and of t!e mole*ular sludge of matter, t!e universal element t!roug! w!i*! form drifted as *lots and patterns of varying density# .t seemed to me unt!in&a le t!at assem lages of atoms s!ould *ogitate e3*ept in atomi* terms# My perverse sense of values *onstrained me to assume t!at a stra*t and *on*rete, as adges, did not denote oppositions more serious t!an 2i eral and Conservative# (!e pra*ti*e of our revolt fortified t!e ni!ilist attitude in me# During it, we often saw men pus! t!emselves or e driven to a *ruel e3treme of enduran*e- yet never was t!ere an intimation of p!ysi*al rea&# Collapse rose always from a moral wea&ness eating into t!e ody, w!i*! of itself, wit!out traitors from wit!in, !ad no power over t!e will# '!ile we rode we were dis odied, un*ons*ious of fles! or feeling- and w!en at an interval t!is e3*itement faded and we did see our odies, it was wit! some !ostility, wit! a *ontemptuous sense t!at t!ey rea*!ed t!eir !ig!est purpose, not as ve!i*les of t!e spirit, ut w!en, dissolved, t!eir elements served to manure a field#

&()PTE" L...I+
"emote from t!e fig!ting line, in A&a a, during t!is pause, we saw t!e reverse of t!e s!ield, t!e

*orruption of our ent!usiasm, w!i*! made t!e moral *ondition of t!e ase unsatisfa*tory# 'e re>oi*ed w!en at last we were a le to es*ape into t!e *lean, fres! !ills a out Guweira# (!e early winter gave us days !ot and sunny, or days over*ast, wit! *louds massed a out t!e !ead of t!e plateau nine miles away, w!ere Maulud was &eeping !is wat*! in t!e mist and rain# (!e evenings !eld >ust enoug! of *!ill to add delig!tful value to a t!i*& *loa& and a fire# 'e waited in Guweira for news of t!e opening of our operation against (afile!, t!e &not of villages *ommanding t!e sout! end of t!e Dead Sea# 'e planned to ta*&le it from west, sout!, and east, at on*e) t!e east opening t!e all y atta*&ing /urf, its nearest station on t!e $e>a+ line# Condu*t of t!is atta*& !ad een trusted to S!erif 0asir, t!e :ortunate# 'it! !im went 0uri Said, /aafar?s *!ief of staff, *ommanding some regulars, a gun, and some ma*!ine-guns# (!ey were wor&ing from /efer# After t!ree days t!eir post *ame in# As usual 0asir !ad dire*ted !is raid wit! s&ill and deli eration# /urf, t!e o >e*tive, was a strong station of t!ree stone uildings wit! outer-wor&s and tren*!es# %e!ind t!e station was a low mound, tren*!ed and walled, on w!i*! t!e (ur&s !ad set two ma*!ine-guns and a mountain gun# %eyond t!e mound lay a !ig!, s!arp ridge, t!e last spur of t!e !ills w!i*! divided /efer from %air# (!e wea&ness of t!e defen*e lay in t!is ridge, for t!e (ur&s were too few to !old ot! it and t!e &noll or station, and its *rest overloo&ed t!e railway# 0asir one nig!t o**upied t!e w!ole top of t!e !ill wit!out alarm, and t!en *ut t!e line a ove and elow t!e station# A few minutes later, w!en it was lig!t enoug! to see, 0uri Said roug!t !is mountain gun to t!e edge of t!e ridge) and, wit! a t!ird lu*&y s!ot, a dire*t !it, silen*ed t!e (ur&is! gun eneat! !is view# 0asir grew greatly e3*ited- t!e %eni Sa&!r mounted t!eir *amels, swearing t!ey would *!arge in fort!wit!# 0uri t!oug!t it madness w!ile (ur&is! ma*!ine-guns were still in a*tion from tren*!es- ut !is words !ad no effe*t upon t!e %edu# .n desperation !e opened a rattling fire wit! all !e !ad against t!e (ur&is! position, and t!e %eni Sa&!r swept round t!e foot of t!e main ridge and up over t!e &noll in a flas!# '!en t!ey saw t!is *amel-!orde ra*ing at t!em, t!e (ur&s flung away t!eir rifles and fled into t!e station# 8nly two Ara s were fatally !urt# 0uri ran down to t!e &noll# (!e (ur&is! gun was undamaged# $e slewed it round and dis*!arged it point lan& into t!e ti*&et offi*e# (!e %eni Sa&!r mo yelled wit! >oy to see t!e wood and stones flying, >umped again on t!eir *amels and loped into t!e station >ust as t!e enemy surrendered# 0early two !undred (ur&s, in*luding seven offi*ers, survived as our prisoners# (!e %edu e*ame ri*!- esides t!e weapons, t!ere were twenty-five mules, and in t!e siding seven tru*&s of deli*a*ies for t!e offi*ers? messes of Medina# (!ere were t!ings t!e tri esmen !ad only !eard of, and t!ings t!ey !ad never !eard of- t!ey were supremely !appy# 4ven t!e unfortunate regulars got a s!are, and were a le on*e more to en>oy olives, sesame paste, dried apri*ot, and ot!er sweet or pi*&led produ*ts of t!eir native, !alf-forgotten, Syria# 0uri Said !ad artifi*ial tastes, and res*ued tinned meats and li@uors from t!e wilder men# (!ere was one w!ole tru*& of to a**o# As t!e $oweitat did not smo&e, it was divided etween t!e %eni Sa&!r and t!e regulars# %y its loss t!e Medina garrison e*ame to a**o-less- t!eir sad plig!t later so wor&ed on :eisal, a *onfirmed smo&er, t!at !e loaded some pa*&-*amels wit! *!eap *igarettes and drove t!em into (e u& wit! !is *ompliments# After t!e looting, t!e engineers fired *!arges under t!e two engines, against t!e water-tower, in t!e pump, and etween t!e points of t!e sidings# (!ey urned t!e *aptured tru*&s and damaged a ridge) ut perfun*torily, for, as usual after vi*tory, everyone was too loaded and too !ot to *are for altruisti* la our# (!ey *amped e!ind t!e station, and a out midnig!t !ad an alarm, w!en t!e noise and lig!ts of a train *ame from t!e sout! and !alted, *learly wit! fore&nowledge, y t!e rea& of t!e evening efore# Auda sent s*outs to report# %efore t!ey !ad returned a solitary sergeant wal&ed into 0asir?s *amp as a volunteer for t!e S!erif?s army# $e !ad een sent out y t!e (ur&s to e3plore t!e station# $is story was t!at t!ere were only si3ty men and a mountain gun on t!e relief train, w!i*!, if !e went a*& wit! smoot! news, mig!t e

surprised wit!out a s!ot fired# 0asir *alled Auda, w!o *alled t!e $oweitat, and t!ey went off silently to lay t!e trap- ut >ust efore t!ey got t!ere our s*outs de*ided to do t!eir unaided est, and opened fire against t!e *oa*!es# .n fear, t!e engine reversed, and rolled t!e train a*&, un!urt, to Maan# .t was t!e only sorrow of /urf# After t!is raid t!e weat!er on*e more ro&e# :or t!ree su**essive days *ame falls of snow# 0asir?s for*e wit! diffi*ulty regained t!e tents at /efer# (!is plateau a out Maan lay etween t!ree and five t!ousand feet a ove sea level, open to all winds from nort! and east# (!ey lew from Central Asia, or from Cau*asus, terri ly over t!e great desert to t!ese low !ills of 4dom, against w!i*! t!eir first fury ro&e# (!e surplus itterness lipped t!e *rest and made a winter, @uite severe of its degree, elow in /udaea and Sinai# 8utside %eers!e a and /erusalem t!e %ritis! found it *old) ut our Ara s fled t!ere to get warm# 9n!appily t!e %ritis! supply staff reali+ed too late t!at we were fig!ting in a little Alp# (!ey would not give us tents for one-@uarter of our troops, nor serge *lot!ing, nor oots, nor lan&ets enoug! to issue two to ea*! man of t!e mountain garrisons# 8ur soldiers, if t!ey neit!er deserted nor died, e3isted in an a*!ing misery w!i*! fro+e t!e !ope out of t!em# A**ording to our plan t!e good news of /urf was to send t!e Ara s of ,etra, under S!erif A d el Mayin, at on*e up t!eir !ills into t!e forest towards S!o e&# .t was an un*anny mar*! in t!e !oar mist, t!at of t!ese fro+en-footed peasants in t!eir s!eeps&ins, up and down s!arp valleys and dangerous !ill-sides, out of w!ose snowdrifts t!e !eavy trun&s of >unipers, grudging in leaves, >utted li&e *astings in grey iron# (!e i*e and frost ro&e down t!e animals, and many of t!e men) yet t!ese !ardy !ig!landers, used to eing too *old t!roug!out t!eir winter, persisted in t!e advan*e# (!e (ur&s !eard of t!em as t!ey struggled slowly nearer, and fled from t!e *aves and s!elters among t!e trees to t!e ran*! rail!ead, littering t!e roads of t!eir pani* wit! *ast aggage and e@uipment# "ail!ead of t!e forest railway, wit! its temporary s!eds, was *ommanded from low ridges y t!e Ara gun-fire, and no etter t!an a trap# (!e tri esmen, in a pa*&, tore t!e enemy to pie*es as t!ey ran out from t!eir urning and falling walls# 8ne dis*iplined *ompany of proper troops, under an Al anian offi*er, foug!t t!eir way to t!e main line) ut t!e Ara s &illed or too& t!e ot!ers, and also t!e stores in S!o e&, t!e old Crusader fort of Monreale, poised !ig! on a *!al& *one a ove its winding valley# A d el Mayein put !is !ead@uarters t!ere, and sent word to 0asir# Mastur, too, was told# $e drew !is Motalga !orse and foot from t!e *omfort of t!eir tents in t!e sunny dept!s of Ara ia and wit! t!em *lim ed t!e !ill-pass eastward towards (afile!# $owever, t!e advantage lay wit! 0asir, w!o leaped in one day from /efer, and after a w!irlwind nig!t appeared at dawn on t!e ro*&y rin& of t!e ravine in w!i*! (afile! !id, and summoned it to surrender on pain of om ardment- an idle t!reat, for 0uri Said wit! t!e guns !ad gone a*& to Guweira# (!ere were only one !undred and eig!ty (ur&s in t!e village, ut t!ey !ad supporters in t!e Mu!aisin, a *lan of t!e peasantry) not for love so mu*! as e*ause D!ia , t!e vulgar !ead-man of anot!er fa*tion, !ad de*lared for :eisal# So t!ey s!ot up at 0asir a stream of ill-dire*ted ullets# (!e $oweitat spread out along t!e *liffs to return t!e peasants? fire# (!is manner of going displeased Auda, t!e old lion, w!o raged t!at a mer*enary village fol& s!ould dare to resist t!eir se*ular masters, t!e A u (ayi# So !e >er&ed !is !alter, *antered !is mare down t!e pat!, and rode out plain to view eneat! t!e easternmost !ouses of t!e village# (!ere !e reined in, and s!oo& a !and at t!em, ooming in !is wonderful voi*e- ?Dogs, do you not &now AudaJ? '!en t!ey reali+ed it was t!at impla*a le son of war t!eir !earts failed t!em, and an !our later S!erif 0asir in t!e town-!ouse was sipping tea wit! !is guest t!e (ur&is! Governor, trying to *onsole !im for t!e sudden *!ange of fortune# At dar& Mastur rode in# $is Motalga loo&ed la*&ly at t!eir lood enemies t!e A u (ayi, lolling in t!e est !ouses# (!e two S!erifs divided up t!e pla*e, to &eep t!eir unruly followers apart# (!ey !ad little aut!ority to mediate, for y passage of time 0asir was nearly adopted into t!e A u (ayi, and Mastur into t!e /a+i#

'!en morning *ame t!e fa*tions were i*&ering) and t!e day passed an3iously) for esides t!ese lood enemies, t!e Mu!aisin were fig!ting for aut!ority among t!e villagers, and furt!er *ompli*ations developed in two stranger elements- one a *olony of free- ooting Senussi from 0ort! Afri*a, w!o !ad een intruded y t!e (ur&s into some ri*!, ut !alf-dereli*t ploug!-land) t!e ot!er a plaiative and a*tive su ur of a t!ousand Armenians, survivors of an infamous deportation y t!e 1oung (ur&s in 1915# (!e people of (afile! went in deadly fear of t!e future# 'e were, as usual, s!ort of food and s!ort of transport, and t!ey would remedy neit!er ill# (!ey !ad w!eat or arley in t!eir ins) ut !id it# (!ey !ad pa*&-animals, asses and mules in a undan*e) ut drove t!em away for safety# (!ey *ould !ave driven us away too, ut were, fortunately for us, s!ort of t!e sti*&ing point# .n*uriousness was t!e most potent ally of our imposed order) for 4astern government rested not so mu*! on *onsent or for*e, as on t!e *ommon supinity, !e etude, la*&-a-daisiness, w!i*! gave a minority undue effe*t# :eisal !ad delegated *ommand of t!is pus! towards t!e Dead Sea to !is young !alf- rot!er Geid# .t was Geid?s first offi*e in t!e nort!, and !e set out eager wit! !ope# As adviser !e !ad /aafar ,as!a, our general# $is infantry, gunners and ma*!ine-gunners stu*&, for la*& of food, at ,etra) ut Geid !imself and /aafar rode on to (afile!# (!ings were almost at a rea&# Auda affe*ted a magnanimity very galling to t!e Motalga oys, Metaa and Annad, sons of A tan, w!om Auda?s son !ad &illed# (!ey, lit!e, definite, self-*ons*ious figures, egan to tal& ig a out revenge-torn-tits t!reatening a !aw&# Auda de*lared !e would w!ip t!em in t!e mar&et-pla*e if t!ey were rude# (!is was very well, ut t!eir followers were two to every man of !is, and we s!ould !ave t!e village in a la+e# (!e young fellows, wit! "a!ail, my ruffler, went flaunting in every street# Geid t!an&ed and paid Auda and sent !im a*& to !is desert# (!e enlig!tened !eads of t!e Mu!aisin !ad to go as for*ed guests to :eisal?s tent# D!ia , t!eir enemy, was our friend- we remem ered regretfully t!e adage t!at t!e est allies of a violently-su**essful new regime were not its partisans, ut its opponents# %y Geid?s plenty of gold t!e e*onomi* situation improved# 'e appointed an offi*ergovernor and organi+ed our five villages for furt!er atta*&#

&()PTE" L...+
0otwit!standing, t!ese plans @ui*&ly went adrift# %efore t!ey !ad een agreed upon we were astonis!ed y a sudden try of t!e (ur&s to dislodge us# 'e !ad never dreamed of t!is, for it seemed out of t!e @uestion t!at t!ey s!ould !ope to &eep (afile!, or want to &eep it# Allen y was >ust in /erusalem, and for t!e (ur&s t!e issue of t!e war mig!t depend on t!eir su**essful defen*e of t!e /ordan against !im# 9nless /eri*!o fell, or until it fell, (afile! was an o s*ure village of no interest# 0or did we value it as a possession) our desire was to get past it towards t!e enemy# :or men so *riti*ally pla*ed as t!e (ur&s to waste one single *asualty on its re*apture appeared t!e ran&est folly# $amid :a&!ri ,as!a, *ommanding t!e I6t! Division and t!e Amman se*tor, t!oug!t ot!erwise, or !ad !is orders# $e *olle*ted a out nine !undred infantry, made up of t!ree attalions Bin /anuary 1916 a (ur&is! attalion was a poor t!ingC wit! a !undred *avalry, two mountain !owit+ers, and twentyseven ma*!ine-guns, and sent t!em y rail and road to ;era&# (!ere !e impressed all t!e lo*al transport, drew a *omplete set of *ivil offi*ials to staff !is new administration in (afile!, and mar*!ed sout!ward to surprise us# Surprise us !e did# 'e first !eard of !im w!en !is *avalry feelers fell on our pi*&ets in 'adi $esa, t!e gorge of great widt! and dept! and diffi*ulty w!i*! *ut off ;era& from (afile!, Moa from 4dom# %y dus& !e !ad driven t!em a*&, and was upon us# /aafar ,as!a !ad s&et*!ed a defen*e position on t!e sout! an& of t!e great ravine of (afile!) proposing, if t!e (ur&s atta*&ed, to give t!em t!e village, and defend t!e !eig!ts w!i*! over!ung it, e!ind# (!is seemed to me dou ly unsound# (!e slopes were dead, and t!eir defen*e as diffi*ult as

t!eir atta*&# (!ey *ould e turned from t!e east) and y @uitting t!e village we t!rew away t!e lo*al people, w!ose votes and !ands would e for t!e o**upiers of t!eir !ouses# $owever, it was t!e ruling idea--all Geid !ad--and so a out midnig!t !e gave t!e order, and servants and retainers loaded up t!eir stuff# (!e men-at-arms pro*eeded to t!e sout!ern *rest, w!ile t!e aggage train was sent off y t!e lower road to safety# (!is move *reated pani* in t!e town# (!e peasants t!oug!t we were running away B. t!in& we wereC and rus!ed to save t!eir goods and lives# .t was free+ing !ard, and t!e ground was *rusted wit! noisy i*e# .n t!e lustering dar& t!e *onfusion and *rying t!roug! t!e narrow streets were terri le# D!ia t!e S!ei&! !ad told us !arrowing tales of t!e disaffe*tion of t!e townspeople, to in*rease t!e splendour of !is own loyalty) ut my impression was t!at t!ey were stout fellows of great potential use# (o prove it . sat out on my roof, or wal&ed in t!e dar& up and down t!e steep alleys, *loa&ed against re*ognition, wit! my guards uno trusively a out me wit!in *all# So we !eard w!at passed# (!e people were in a very passion of fear, nearly dangerous, a using every ody and everyt!ing- ut t!ere was not!ing pro-(ur&is! a road# (!ey were in !orror of t!e (ur&s returning, ready to do all in t!eir p!ysi*al *apa*ity to support against t!em a leader wit! fig!ting intention# (!is was satisfa*tory, for it *!imed wit! my !an&ering to stand w!ere we were and fig!t stiffly# :inally, . met t!e young /a+i s!ei&!s Metaa and Annad, eautiful in sil&s and gleaming silver arms, and sent t!em to find t!eir un*le, $amd el Arar# $im . as&ed to ride away nort! of t!e ravine, to tell t!e peasantry, w!o, y t!e noise, were still fig!ting t!e (ur&s, t!at we were on our way up to !elp t!em# $amd, a melan*!oly, *ourtly, gallant *avalier, galloped off at on*e wit! twenty of !is relations, all t!at !e *ould gat!er in t!e dis tra*ted moment# (!eir passage at speed t!roug! t!e streets added t!e last tou*! re@uired to perfe*t t!e terror# (!e !ousewives undled t!eir goods pell-mell out of doors and windows, t!oug! no men were waiting to re*eive t!em# C!ildren were trampled on, and yelled, w!ile t!eir mot!ers were yelling any!ow# (!e Motalga during t!eir gallop fired s!ot after s!ot into t!e air to en*ourage t!emselves, and, as t!oug! to answer t!em, t!e flas!es of t!e enemy rifles e*ame visi le, outlining t!e nort!ern *liffs in t!at last la*&ness of s&y efore t!e dawn# . wal&ed up t!e opposite !eig!ts to *onsult wit! S!erif Geid# Geid sat gravely on a ro*&, sweeping t!e *ountry wit! field-glasses for t!e enemy# As *rises deepened, Geid drew deta*!ed, non*!alant# . was in a furious rage# (!e (ur&s s!ould never, y t!e rules of sane generals!ip, !ave ventured a*& to (afile! at all# .t was simple greed, a dog-in-t!e-manger attitude unwort!y of a serious enemy, >ust t!e sort of !opeless t!ing a (ur& would do# $ow *ould t!ey e3pe*t a proper war w!en t!ey gave us no *!an*e to !onour t!emJ 8ur morale was *ontinually eing ruined y t!eir follies, for neit!er *ould our men respe*t t!eir *ourage, nor our offi*ers respe*t t!eir rains# Also, it was an i*y morning, and . !ad een up all nig!t and was (eutoni* enoug! to de*ide t!at t!ey s!ould pay for my *!anged mind and plan# (!ey must e few in num er, >udging y t!eir speed of advan*e# 'e !ad every advantage, of time, of terrain, of num er, of weat!er, and *ould *!e*&mate t!em easily- ut to my wrat! t!at was not enoug!# 'e would play t!eir &ind of game on our pigmy s*ale) deliver t!em a pit*!ed attle su*! as t!ey wanted) &ill t!em all# . would ra&e up my memory of t!e !alf-forgotten ma3ims of t!e ort!odo3 army te3t- oo&, and parody t!em in a*tion# (!is was villainous, for wit! arit!meti* and geograp!y for allies we mig!t !ave spared t!e suffering fa*tor of !umanity) and to ma&e a *ons*ious >o&e of vi*tory was wanton# 'e *ould !ave won y refusing attle, fo3ed t!em y manoeuvring our *entre as on twenty su*! o**asions efore and sin*eyet ad temper and *on*eit united for t!is time to ma&e me not *ontent to &now my power, ut determined to give pu li* advertisement of it to t!e enemy and to everyone# Geid, now *onvin*ed of t!e in*onvenien*e of t!e defen*e-line, was very ready to listen to t!e voi*e of t!e tempter# :irst . suggested t!at A dulla go forward wit! two $ot*!&iss guns to test t!e strengt! and disposition of t!e enemy# (!en we tal&ed of w!at ne3t) very usefully, for Geid was a *ool and gallant little fig!ter, wit! t!e temperament of a professional offi*er# 'e saw A dulla *lim t!e ot!er an&# (!e s!ooting

e*ame intense for a time, and t!en faded into distan*e# $is *oming !ad stimulated t!e Motalga !orsemen and t!e villagers, w!o fell on t!e (ur&is! *avalry and drove t!em over a first ridge, a*ross a plain two miles wide, and over a ridge eyond it down t!e first step of t!e great $esa depression# %e!ind t!is lay t!e (ur&is! main ody, >ust getting on t!e road again after a severe nig!t w!i*! !ad stiffened t!em in t!eir pla*es# (!ey *ame properly into a*tion, and A dulla was *!e*&ed at on*e# 'e !eard t!e distant rolling of ma*!ine-gun fire, growing up in !uge ursts, la*ed y a desultory s!elling# 8ur ears told us w!at was !appening as well as if we saw it, and t!e news was e3*ellent# . wanted Geid to *ome forward at on*e on t!at aut!ority- ut !is *aution stepped in and !e insisted t!at we wait e3a*t word from !is advan*e-guard, A dulla# (!is was not ne*essary, a**ording to oo&, ut t!ey &new . was a s!am soldier, and too& li*en*e to !esitate over my advi*e w!en it *ame peremptorily# $owever, . !eld a !and wort! two of t!at and went off myself for t!e front to pre>udge t!eir de*ision# 8n t!e way . saw my odyguard, turning over t!e goods e3posed for removal in t!e streets, and finding mu*! of interest to t!emselves# . told t!em to re*over our *amels and to ring t!eir $ot*!&iss automati* to t!e nort! an& of t!e gorge in a !urry# (!e road dipped into a grove of fig-trees, &nots of lue sna&y oug!s) are, as t!ey would e long after t!e rest of nature was grown green# (!en*e it turned eastward, to wind lengt!ily in t!e valley to t!e *rest# . left it, *lim ing straig!t up t!e *liffs# An advantage of going arefoot was a new and in*redi le sureness upon ro*& w!en t!e soles !ad got !ard y painful insisten*e, or were too *!illed to feel >ags and s*rapes# (!e new way, w!ile warming me, also s!ortened my time appre*ia ly, and very soon, at t!e top, . found a level it, and t!en a last ridge overloo&ing t!e plateau# (!is last straig!t an&, wit! %y+antine foundations in it, seemed very proper for a reserve or ultimate line of defen*e for (afile!# (o e sure, we !ad no reserve as yet--no one !ad t!e least notion w!o or w!at we would !ave anyw!ere-- ut, if we did !ave any ody, !ere was t!eir pla*e- and at t!at pre*ise moment Geid?s personal Ageyl e*ame visi le, !iding *oyly in a !ollow# (o ma&e t!em move re@uired words of a strengt! to unravel t!eir plaited !air- ut at last . !ad t!em sitting along t!e s&yline of "eserve "idge# (!ey were a out twenty, and from a distan*e loo&ed eautiful, li&e ?points? of a *onsidera le army# . gave t!em my signet as a to&en, wit! orders to *olle*t t!ere all new *omers, espe*ially my fellows wit! t!eir gun# As . wal&ed nort!ward towards t!e fig!ting, A dulla met me, on !is way to Geid wit! news# $e !ad finis!ed !is ammunition, lost five men from s!ell-fire, and !ad one automati* gun destroyed# (wo guns, !e t!oug!t t!e (ur&s !ad# $is idea was to get up Geid wit! all !is men and fig!t- so not!ing remained for me to add to !is message) and t!ere was no su tlety in leaving alone my !appy masters to *ross and dot t!eir own rig!t de*ision# $e gave me leisure in w!i*! to study t!e *oming attlefield# (!e tiny plain was a out two miles a*ross, ounded y low green ridges, and roug!ly triangular, wit! my reserve ridge as ase# (!roug! it ran t!e road to ;era&, dipping into t!e $esa valley# (!e (ur&s were fig!ting t!eir way up t!is road# A dulla?s *!arge !ad ta&en t!e western or left-!and ridge, w!i*! was now our firing-line# S!ells were falling in t!e plain as . wal&ed a*ross it, wit! !ars! stal&s of wormwood sta ing into my wounded feet# (!e enemy fusing was too long, so t!at t!e s!ells gra+ed t!e ridge and urst away e!ind# 8ne fell near me, and . learned its *ali re from t!e !ot *ap# As . went t!ey egan to s!orten range, and y t!e time . got to t!e ridge it was eing freely sprin&led wit! s!rapnel# 8 viously t!e (ur&s !ad got o servation some!ow, and loo&ing round . saw t!em *lim ing along t!e eastern side eyond t!e gap of t!e ;era& road# (!ey would soon outflan& us at our end of t!e western ridge#

&()PTE" L...+I
?9s? proved to e a out si3ty men, *lustered e!ind t!e ridge in two un*!es, one near t!e ottom, one y t!e top# (!e lower was made up of peasants, on foot, lown, misera le, and yet t!e only warm t!ings . !ad seen t!at day# (!ey said t!eir ammunition was finis!ed, and it was all over# . assured

t!em it was >ust eginning and pointed to my populous reserve ridge, saying t!at all arms were t!ere in support# . told t!em to !urry a*&, refill t!eir elts and !old on to it for good# Meanw!ile we would *over t!eir retreat y sti*&ing !ere for t!e few minutes yet possi le# (!ey ran off, *!eered, and . wal&ed a out among t!e upper group @uoting !ow one s!ould not @uit firing from one position till ready to fire from t!e ne3t# .n *ommand was young Metaa , stripped to !is s&imp riding-drawers for !ard wor&, wit! !is la*& love-*urls awry, !is fa*e stained and !aggard# $e was eating !is !ands toget!er and *rying !oarsely wit! affled ve3ation, for !e !ad meant to do so well in t!is, !is first fig!t for us# My presen*e at t!e last moment, w!en t!e (ur&s were rea&ing t!roug!, was itter) and !e got angrier w!en . said t!at . only wanted to study t!e lands*ape# $e t!oug!t it flippan*y, and s*reamed somet!ing a out a C!ristian going into attle unarmed# . retorted wit! a @uip from Clausewit+, a out a rearguard effe*ting its purpose more y eing t!an y doing- ut !e was past laug!ter, and per!aps wit! >usti*e, for t!e little flinty an& e!ind w!i*! we s!eltered was *ra*&ling wit! fire# (!e (ur&s, &nowing we were t!ere, !ad turned twenty ma*!ine-guns upon it# .t was four feet !ig! and fifty feet long, of are flinty ri s, off w!i*! t!e ullets slapped deafeningly- w!ile t!e air a ove so !ummed or w!istled wit! ri*o*!ets and *!ips t!at it felt li&e deat! to loo& over# Clearly we must leave very soon, and as . !ad no !orse . went off first, wit! Metaa ?s promise t!at !e would wait w!ere !e was if !e dared, for anot!er ten minutes# (!e run warmed me# . *ounted my pa*es, to !elp in ranging t!e (ur&s w!en t!ey ousted us) sin*e t!ere was only t!at one position for t!em, and it was poorly prote*ted against t!e sout!# .n losing t!is Motalga ridge we would pro a ly win t!e attle# (!e !orsemen !eld on for almost t!eir ten minutes, and t!en galloped off wit!out !urt# Metaa lent me !is stirrup to !urry me along, till we found ourselves reat!less among t!e Ageyl# .t was >ust noon, and we !ad leisure and @uiet in w!i*! to t!in&# 8ur new ridge was a out forty feet up, and a ni*e s!ape for defen*e# 'e !ad eig!ty men on it, and more were *onstantly arriving# My guards were in pla*e wit! t!eir gun) 2utfi, an engine-destroyer, rus!ed up !otly wit! !is two, and after !im *ame anot!er !undred Ageyl# (!e t!ing was e*oming a pi*ni*, and y saying ?e3*ellent? and loo&ing over>oyed, we pu++led t!e men, and made t!em *onsider t!e position dispassionately# (!e automati*s were put on t!e s&yline, wit! orders to fire o**asional s!ots, s!ort, to distur t!e (ur&s a little, ut not too mu*!, after t!e e3pedient of Massena in delaying enemy deployment# 8t!erwise a lull fell) . lay down in a s!eltered pla*e w!i*! *aug!t a little sun, and no wind, and slept a lessed !our, w!ile t!e (ur&s o**upied t!e old ridge, e3tending over it li&e a s*!ool of geese, and a out as wisely# 8ur men left t!em alone, eing *ontented wit! a free e3!i ition of t!emselves# .n t!e middle of t!e afternoon Geid arrived, wit! Mastur, "asim and A dulla# (!ey roug!t our main ody, *omprising twenty mounted infantry on mules, t!irty Motalga !orsemen, two !undred villagers, five automati* rifles, four ma*!ine-guns and t!e 4gyptian Army mountain gun w!i*! !ad foug!t a out Medina, ,etra and /urf# (!is was magnifi*ent, and . wo&e up to wel*ome t!em# (!e (ur&s saw us *rowding, and opened wit! s!rapnel and ma*!ine-gun fire- ut t!ey !ad not t!e range and fum led it# 'e reminded one anot!er t!at movement was t!e law of strategy, and started moving# "asim e*ame a *avalry offi*er, and mounted wit! all our eig!ty riders of animals to ma&e a *ir*uit a out t!e eastern ridge and envelop t!e enemy?s left wing, sin*e t!e oo&s advised atta*& not upon a line, ut upon a point, and y going far enoug! along any finite wing it would e found eventually redu*ed to a point of one single man# "asim li&ed t!is, my *on*eption of !is target# $e promised, grinningly, to ring us t!at last man- ut $amd el Arar too& t!e o**asion more fittingly# %efore riding off !e devoted !imself to t!e deat! for t!e Ara *ause, drew !is sword *eremoniously, and made to it, y name, a !eroi* spee*!# "asim too& five automati* guns wit! !im) w!i*! was good# 'e in t!e *entre paraded a out, so t!at t!eir departure mig!t e unseen of t!e enemy, w!o were ringing up an apparently endless pro*ession of ma*!ine-guns and dressing t!em y t!e left at

intervals along t!e ridge, as t!oug! in a museum# .t was lunati* ta*ti*s# (!e ridge was flint, wit!out *over for a li+ard# 'e !ad seen !ow, w!en a ullet stru*& t!e ground, it and t!e ground spattered up in a s!ower of deadly *!ips# Also we &new t!e range, and elevated our <i*&ers guns *arefully, lessing t!eir long, old-fas!ioned sig!ts) our mountain gun was propped into pla*e ready to let go a sudden urst of s!rapnel over t!e enemy w!en "asim was at grips# As we waited, a reinfor*ement was announ*ed of one !undred men from Aima# (!ey !ad fallen out wit! Geid over war-wages t!e day previous, ut !ad grandly de*ided to sin& old s*ores in t!e *risis# (!eir arrival *onvin*ed us to a andon Mars!al :o*! and to atta*& from, at any rate, t!ree sides at on*e# So we sent t!e Aima men, wit! t!ree automati* guns, to outflan& t!e rig!t, or western wing# (!en we opened against t!e (ur&s from our *entral position, and ot!ered t!eir e3posed lines wit! !its and ri*o*!ets# (!e enemy felt t!e day no longer favoura le# .t was passing, and sunset often gave vi*tory to defenders yet in pla*e# 8ld General $amid :a&!ri *olle*ted !is Staff and $ead@uarters, and told ea*! man to ta&e a rifle# ?. !ave een forty years a soldier, ut never saw . re els fig!t li&e t!ese# 4nter t!e ran&s? # # # ut !e was too late# "asim pus!ed forward an atta*& of !is five automati* guns, ea*! wit! its two-man *rew# (!ey went in rapidly, unseen till t!ey were in position, and *rumpled t!e (ur&is! left# (!e Aima men, w!o &new every lade of grass on t!ese, t!eir own village pastures, *rept, un!armed, wit!in t!ree !undred yards of t!e (ur&is! ma*!ine-guns# (!e enemy, !eld y our frontal t!reat, first &new of t!e Aima men w!en t!ey, y a sudden urst of fire, wiped out t!e gun-teams and flung t!e rig!t wing into disorder# 'e saw it, and *ried advan*e to t!e *amel men and levies a out us# Mo!amed el G!asi , *omptroller of Geyd?s !ouse!old, led t!em on !is *amel, in s!ining windillowed ro es, wit! t!e *rimson anner of t!e Ageyl over !is !ead# All w!o !ad remained in t!e *entre wit! us, our servants, gunners and ma*!ine-gunners, rus!ed after !im in a wide, vivid line# (!e day !ad een too long for me, and . was now only s!a&ing wit! desire to see t!e end- ut Geid eside me *lapped !is !ands wit! >oy at t!e eautiful order of our plan unrolling in t!e frosty redness of t!e setting sun# 8n t!e one !and "asim?s *avalry were sweeping a ro&en left wing into t!e pit eyond t!e ridge- on t!e ot!er t!e men of Aima were loodily *utting down fugitives# (!e enemy *entre was pouring a*& in disorder t!roug! t!e gap, wit! our men after t!em on foot, on !orse, on *amel# (!e Armenians, *rou*!ing e!ind us all day an3iously, now drew t!eir &nives and !owled to one anot!er in (ur&is! as t!ey leaped forward# . t!oug!t of t!e dept!s etween !ere and ;era&, t!e ravine of $esa, wit! its ro&en, pre*ipitous pat!s, t!e undergrowt!, t!e narrows and defiles of t!e way# .t was going to e a massa*re and . s!ould !ave een *rying-sorry for t!e enemy) ut after t!e angers and e3ertions of t!e attle my mind was too tired to *are to go down into t!at awful pla*e and spend t!e nig!t saving t!em# %y my de*ision to fig!t, . !ad &illed twenty or t!irty of our si3 !undred men, and t!e wounded would e per!aps t!ree times as many# .t was one-si3t! of our for*e gone on a ver al triump!, for t!e destru*tion of t!is t!ousand poor (ur&s would not affe*t t!e issue of t!e war# .n t!e end we !ad ta&en t!eir two mountain !owit+ers BS&oda guns, very useful to usC, twenty-seven ma*!ine-guns, two !undred !orses and mules, two !undred and fifty prisoners# Men said only fifty got a*&, e3!austed fugitives, to t!e railway# (!e Ara s on t!eir tra*& rose against t!em and s!ot t!em igno ly as t!ey ran# 8ur own men gave up t!e pursuit @ui*&ly, for t!ey were tired and sore and !ungry, and it was pitifully *old# A attle mig!t e t!rilling at t!e moment for generals, ut usually t!eir imagination played too vividly efore!and, and made t!e reality seem s!am) so @uiet and unimportant t!at t!ey ranged a out loo&ing for its fan*ied *ore# (!is evening t!ere was no glory left, ut t!e terror of t!e ro&en fles!, w!i*! !ad een our own men, *arried past us to t!eir !omes# As we turned a*& it egan to snow) and only very late, and y a last effort did we get our !urt men

in# (!e (ur&is! wounded lay out, and were dead ne3t day# .t was indefensi le, as was t!e w!ole t!eory of war- ut no spe*ial reproa*! lay on us for it# 'e ris&ed our lives in t!e li++ard Bt!e *!ill of vi*tory owing us downC to save our own fellows) and if our rule was not to lose Ara s to &ill even many (ur&s, still less mig!t we lose t!em to save (ur&s# 0e3t day and t!e ne3t it snowed yet !arder# 'e were weat!er ound, and as t!e days passed in monotony we lost t!e !ope of doing# 'e s!ould !ave pus!ed past ;era& on t!e !eels of vi*tory, frig!ting t!e (ur&s to Amman wit! our rumour- as it was, not!ing *ame of all t!e loss and effort, e3*ept a report w!i*! . sent over to t!e %ritis! !ead@uarters in ,alestine for t!e Staffs *onsumption# .t was meanly written for effe*t, full of @uaint smiles and mo*& simpli*ities) and made t!em t!in& me a modest amateur, doing !is est after t!e great models) not a *lown, leering after t!em w!ere t!ey wit! :o*!, andmaster, at t!eir !ead went drumming down t!e old road of effusion of lood into t!e !ouse of Clausewit+# 2i&e t!e attle, it was a nearly-proof parody of regulation use# $ead@uarters loved it, and inno*ently, to *rown t!e >est, offered me a de*oration on t!e strengt! of it# 'e s!ould !ave more rig!t reasts in t!e Army if ea*! man was a le wit!out witnesses, to write out !is own despat*!#

&()PTE" L...+II
$esa?s sole profit lay, t!en, in its lesson to myself# 0ever again were we *om ative, w!et!er in >est, or etting on a *ertainty# .ndeed, only t!ree days later, our !onour was partially redeemed y a good and serious t!ing we arranged t!roug! A dulla el :eir, w!o was *amped eneat! us in t!e paradise of t!e Dead Sea?s sout!ern s!ore, a plain gus!ing wit! roo&s of sweet water, and ri*! in vegetation# 'e sent !im news of vi*tory, wit! a pro>e*t to raid t!e la&e-port of;era& and destroy t!e (ur&s? flotilla# $e *!ose out some seventy !orsemen, of t!e %eers!e a %eduin# (!ey rode in t!e nig!t along t!e s!elf of tra*& etween t!e !ills of Moa and t!e Sea?s rim as far as t!e (ur&is! post) and in t!e first greyness, w!en t!eir eyes *ould rea*! far enoug! for a gallop, t!ey urst out of t!eir undergrowt! upon motor laun*! and sailing lig!ters, !ar oured in t!e nort!ern ig!t, wit! t!e unsuspe*ting *rews sleeping on t!e ea*! or in t!e reed-!uts near y# (!ey were from t!e (ur&is! 0avy, not prepared for land fig!ting, still less for re*eiving *avalry- t!ey were awa&ened only y t!e drumming of our !orses? !ooves in t!e !eadlong *!arge- and t!e engagement ended at t!e moment# (!e !uts were urned, t!e stores looted, t!e s!ipping ta&en out to deep sea and s*uttled# (!en, wit!out a *asualty, and wit! t!eir si3ty prisoners, our men rode a*& praising t!emselves# /anuary t!e twenty-eig!t!) and we !ad attained our se*ond o >e*tive--t!e stopping of Dead Sea traffi*--a fortnig!t sooner t!an we !ad promised Allen y# (!e t!ird o >e*tive !ad een t!e /ordan mout! y /eri*!o, efore t!e end of Mar*!) and it would !ave een a fair prospe*t, ut for t!e paralysis w!i*! weat!er and distaste for pain !ad roug!t upon us sin*e t!e red day of $esa# Conditions in (afile! were mended# :eisal !ad sent us ammunition and food# ,ri*es fell, as men grew to trust our strengt!# (!e tri es a out ;era&, in daily tou*! wit! Geid, purposed to >oin !im in arms so soon as !e moved forward# /ust t!is, !owever, we *ould not do# (!e winter?s poten*y drove leaders and men into t!e village and !uddled t!em in a la*&-lustre idleness against w!i*! *ounsels of movement availed little# .ndeed, "eason, also, was wit!in doors# (wi*e . ventured up to taste t!e snow-laden plateau, upon w!ose even fa*e t!e (ur&is! dead, poor rown pats of stiffened *lot!es, were littered- ut Me t!ere was not tolera le# .n t!e day it t!awed a little and in t!e nig!t it fro+e# (!e wind *ut open t!e s&in- fingers lost power, and sense of feel- *!ee&s s!ivered li&e dead leaves till t!ey *ould s!iver no more, and t!en ound up t!eir mus*les in a witless a*!e# (o laun*! out a*ross t!e snow on *amels, easts singularly inept on slippery ground, would e to put ourselves in t!e power of !owever few !orsemen wis!ed to oppose us) and, as t!e days dragged on, even t!is last possi ility was wit!drawn# %arley ran s!ort in (afile!, and our *amels, already *ut off y t!e weat!er from natural gra+ing, were now also *ut off from artifi*ial food# 'e !ad to drive t!em down into t!e !appier G!or, a day?s >ourney from our vital garrison#

(!oug! so far y t!e devious road, yet in dire*t distan*e t!e G!or lay little more t!an si3 miles away, and in full sig!t, five t!ousand feet elow# Salt was ru ed into our miseries y t!e spe*ta*le of t!at near winter garden eneat! us y t!e la&e-side# 'e were penned in verminous !ouses of *old stone) la*&ing fuel, la*&ing food) storm ound in streets li&e sewers, amid li++ards of sleet and an i*y windw!ile t!ere in t!e valley was suns!ine upon spring grass, deep wit! flowers, upon flo*&s in mil& and air so warm t!at men went un*loa&ed# My private party were more fortunate t!an most, as t!e Gaagi !ad found us an empty unfinis!ed !ouse, of two sound rooms and a *ourt# My money provided fuel, and even grain for our *amels, w!i*! we &ept s!eltered in a *orner of t!e yard, w!ere A dulla, t!e animal lover, *ould *urry t!em and tea*! every one y name to ta&e a gift of read, li&e a &iss, from !is mout!, gently, wit! !er loose lips, w!en !e *alled !er# Still, t!ey were un!appy days, sin*e to !ave a fire was to e stifled wit! green smo&e, and in t!e window-spa*es were only ma&es!ift s!utters of our own >oinery# (!e mud roof dripped water all t!e day long, and t!e fleas on t!e stone floor sang toget!er nig!tly, for praise of t!e new meats given t!em# 'e were twenty-eig!t in t!e two tiny rooms, w!i*! ree&ed wit! t!e sour smell of our *rowd# .n my saddle- ags was a #orte 10Arthur# .t relieved my disgust# (!e men !ad only p!ysi*al resour*es) and in t!e *onfined misery t!eir tempers roug!ened# (!eir oddnesses, w!i*! ordinary time pa*&ed wit! a saving film of distan*e, now >ostled me angrily) w!ile a gra+ed wound in my !ip !ad fro+en, and irritated me wit! painful t!ro ing# Day y day, t!e tension among us grew, as our state e*ame more sordid, more animal# At last Awad, t!e wild S!erari, @uarrelled wit! little Ma!mas) and in a moment t!eir daggers *las!ed# (!e rest nipped t!e tragedy, so t!at t!ere was only a slig!t wounding- ut it ro&e t!e greatest law of t!e odyguard, and as ot! e3ample and guilt were latant, t!e ot!ers went pa*&ing into t!e far room w!ile t!eir *!iefs fort!wit! e3e*uted senten*e# $owever, t!e Gaagi?s s!rill w!ip-stro&es were too *ruel for my taug!t imagination, and . stopped !im efore !e was well warmed# Awad, w!o !ad lain t!roug! !is punis!ment wit!out *omplaint, at t!is release levered !imself slowly to !is &nees and wit! ent legs and swaying !ead staggered away to !is sleeping-pla*e# .t was t!en t!e turn of t!e waiting Ma!mas, a tig!t-lipped yout! wit! pointed *!in and pointed fore!ead, w!ose eady eyes dropped at t!e inner *orners wit! an indes*ri a le air of impatien*e# $e was not properly of my guard, ut a *amel-driver) for !is *apa*ity fell far elow !is sense of it, and a *onstantly-!urt pride made !im sudden and fatal in *ompanions!ip# .f worsted in argument, or laug!ed at, !e would lean forward wit! !is always !andy little dagger and rip up !is friend# 0ow !e s!ran& into a *orner s!owing !is teet!, vowing, a*ross !is tears, to e t!roug! t!ose w!o !urt !im# Ara s did not disse*t enduran*e, t!eir *rown of man!ood, into material and moral, ma&ing allowan*e for nerves# So Ma mas? *rying was *alled fear, and w!en loosed, !e *rept out disgra*ed into t!e nig!t to !ide# . was sorry for Awad- !is !ardness put me to s!ame# 4spe*ially . was as!amed w!en, ne3t dawn, . !eard a limping step in t!e yard, and saw !im attempting to do !is proper duty y t!e *amels# . *alled !im in to give !im an em roidered !ead-*lot! as reward for fait!ful servi*e# $e *ame pitia ly sullen, wit! a s!rin&ing, mo ile readiness for more punis!ment- my *!anged manner ro&e !im down# %y afternoon !e was singing and s!outing, !appier t!an ever, as !e !ad found a fool in (afile! to pay !im four pounds for my sil&en gift# Su*! nervous s!arpening ourselves on ea*! ot!er?s faults was so revolting t!at . de*ided to s*atter t!e party, and to go off myself in sear*! of t!e e3tra money we s!ould need w!en fine weat!er *ame# Geid !ad spent t!e first part of t!e sum set aside for (afile! and t!e Dead Sea) partly on wages, partly on supplies and in rewards to t!e vi*tors of Seil $esa# '!erever we ne3t put our front line, we s!ould !ave to enlist and pay fres! for*es, for only lo*al men &new t!e @ualities of t!eir ground instin*tively) and t!ey foug!t est, defending t!eir !omes and *rops against t!e enemy# /oy*e mig!t !ave arranged to send me money- ut not easily in t!is season# .t was surer to go down

myself- and more virtuous t!an *ontinued fetor and promis*uity in (afile!# So five of us started off on a day w!i*! promised to e a little more open t!an usual# 'e made good time to "es!idiya and as we *lim ed t!e saddle eyond, found ourselves momentarily a ove t!e *louds in a faint suns!ine# .n t!e afternoon t!e weat!er drew down again and t!e wind !ardened from t!e nort! and east, and made us sorry to e out on t!e are plain# '!en we !ad forded t!e running river of S!o e&, rain egan to fall, first in wild gusts, ut t!en more steadily, reeding down over our left s!oulders and seeming to *loa& us from t!e main lea&ness of wind# '!ere t!e rain-strea&s !it t!e ground t!ey furred out w!itely li&e a spray# 'e pus!ed on wit!out !alting and till long after sunset urged our trem ling *amels, wit! many slips, and falls a*ross t!e greasy valleys# 'e made nearly two miles an !our, despite our diffi*ulties) and progress was e*ome so e3*iting and une3pe*ted t!at its mere e3er*ise &ept us warm# .t !ad een my intention to ride all nig!t- ut, near 8dro!, mist *ame down a out us in a low ring *urtain, over w!i*! t!e *louds, li&e tatters of a veil, spun and dan*ed !ig! up a*ross t!e *almness of t!e s&y# (!e perspe*tive seemed to *!ange, so t!at far !ills loo&ed small, and near !illo*&s great# 'e ore too mu*! to t!e rig!t# (!is open *ountry, t!oug! appearing !ard, ro&e rottenly eneat! t!eir weig!t and let our *amels in, four or five in*!es deep, at every stride# (!e poor easts !ad een *!illed all day, and !ad umped down so often t!at t!ey were stiff wit! ruises# Conse@uently, t!ey made unwilling wor& of t!e new diffi*ulties# (!ey !urried for a few steps, stopped a ruptly, loo&ed round, or tried to dart off sideways# 'e prevented t!eir wis!es, and drove t!em forward till our lind way met ro*&y valleys, wit! a ro&en s&yline) dar& to rig!t and left, and in front apparent !ills w!ere no !ills s!ould e# .t fro+e again, and t!e sla y stones of t!e valley e*ame i*ed# (o pus! fart!er, on t!e wrong road, t!roug! su*! a nig!t was folly# 'e found a larger out*rop of ro*&# %e!ind it, w!ere t!ere s!ould !ave een s!elter, we *ou*!ed our *amels in a *ompa*t group, tails to wind- fa*ing it, t!ey mig!t die of *old# 'e snuggled down eside t!em, !oping for warmt! and sleep# (!e warmt! ., at least, never got, and !ardly t!e sleep# . do+ed on*e only to wa&e wit! a start w!en slow fingers seemed to stro&e my fa*e# . stared out into a nig!t livid wit! large, soft snowfla&es# (!ey lasted a minute or two) ut t!en followed rain, and after it more frost, w!ile . s@uatted in a tig!t all, a*!ing every way ut too misera le to move, till dawn# .t was a !esitant dawn, ut enoug!- . rolled over in t!e mud to see my men, &notted in t!eir *loa&s, *owering a andoned again st t!e easts? flan&s# 8n ea*! man?s fa*e weig!ed t!e most dolorous e3pression of resigned despair# (!ey were four sout!erners, w!om fear of t!e winter !ad turned ill at (afile!, and w!o were going to rest in Guweira till it was warm again- ut !ere in t!e mist t!ey !ad made up t!eir minds, li&e !e*amels, t!at deat! was upon t!em- and, t!oug! t!ey were too proud to grum le at it, t!ey were not a ove s!owing me silently t!at t!is w!i*! t!ey made for my sa&e was a sa*rifi*e# (!ey did not spea& or move in reply to me# 9nder a flung *amel it was est to lig!t a slow fire, to raise it- ut . too& t!e smallest of t!ese dummies y t!e !ead-*urls, and proved to !im t!at !e was still *apa le of feeling# (!e ot!ers got to t!eir feet, and we &i*&ed up t!e stiff *amels# 8ur only loss was a water-s&in, fro+en to t!e ground# 'it! daylig!t t!e !ori+on !ad grown very *lose, and we saw t!at our proper road was a @uarter of a mile to our left# Along it we struggled afoot# (!e *amels were too done to *arry our weig!t Ball ut my own died later of t!is mar*!C and it was so muddy in t!e *lay ottoms t!at we ourselves slid and fell li&e t!em# $owever, t!e Deraa tri*& !elped, of spreading wide t!e toes and !oo&ing t!em downward into t!e mud at ea*! stride- and y t!is means, in a group, *lut*!ing and !olding one anot!er, we maintained progress# (!e air seemed *old enoug! to free+e anyt!ing, ut did not- t!e wind, w!i*! !ad *!anged during t!e nig!t, swept into us from t!e west in !indering u++ards# 8ur *loa&s ellied out and dragged li&e sails, against us# At last we s&inned t!em off, and went easier, our are s!irts wrapped tig!tly a out us to restrain t!eir slapping tails# (!e w!irling dire*tion of t!e s@ualls was s!own to our eyes y t!e

w!ite mist t!ey *arried a*ross !ill and dale# 8ur !ands were num ed into insensi ility, so t!at we &new t!e *uts on t!em only y red stains in t!eir plastered mud- ut our odies were not so *!ill, and for !ours @uivered under t!e !ailstones of ea*! storm# 'e twisted ourselves to get t!e s!arpness on an un!urt side, and !eld our s!irts free from t!e s&in, to s!ield us momentarily# %y late afternoon we !ad *overed t!e ten miles to A a el 2issan# Maulud?s men were gone to ground, and no one !ailed us) w!i*! was well, for we were filt!y and misera le) stringy li&e s!aven *ats# Afterwards t!e going was easier, t!e last two miles to t!e !ead of S!tar eing fro+en li&e iron# 'e remounted our *amels, w!ose reat! es*aped w!itely t!roug! t!eir protesting nostrils, and ra*ed up to t!e first wonderful glimpse of t!e Guweira plain, warm, red and *omforta le, as seen t!roug! t!e *loud-gaps# (!e *louds !ad *eiled t!e !ollow strangely, *utting t!e mid-s&y in a flat layer of *urds at t!e level of t!e !illtop on w!i*! we stood- we ga+ed on t!em *ontentedly for minutes# 4very little w!ile a wisp of t!eir flee*y sea-foam stuff would e torn away and t!rown at us# 'e on t!e wall of luffs would feel it slas! a*ross our fa*es) and, turning, would see a w!ite !em draw over t!e roug! *rest, tear to s!reds, and vanis! in a powdering of !oar grains or a tri*&le of water a*ross t!e peat soil# After !aving wondered at t!e s&y we slid and ran gaily down t!e pass to dry sand in a *alm mild air# 1et t!e pleasure was not vivid, as we !ad !oped# (!e pain of t!e lood fraying its passage on*e more a out our fro+en lim s and fa*es was mu*! faster t!an t!e pain of its driving out- and we grew sensi le t!at our feet !ad een torn and ruised nearly to pulp among t!e stones# 'e !ad not felt t!em tender w!ile in t!e i*y mud) ut t!is warm, salty sand s*oured t!e *uts# .n desperation we *lim ed up our sad *amels, and eat t!em woodenly towards Guweira# $owever, t!e *!ange !ad made t!em !appier, and t!ey roug!t us !ome t!ere sedately, ut wit! su**ess#

&()PTE" L...+III
2a+y nig!ts, t!ree of t!em, in t!e armoured *ar tents at Guweira were pleasant, wit! Alan Dawnay, /oy*e, and ot!ers tal&ing, and (afile! to oast a out# 1et t!ese friends were a little grieved at my lu*&, for t!eir great e3pedition wit! :eisal a fortnig!t ago to overw!elm Mudowwara !ad turned out unprofita ly# ,artly it was t!e an*ient pro lem of t!e *o-operation of regulars wit! irregulars) partly it was t!e fault of old Mo!ammed A!? el %eidawi, w!o, put over t!e %eni Atiye!, !ad *ome wit! t!em to water, *ried, ?0oon-!altA? and sat t!ere for two mont!s, pandering to t!at !edonisti* strea& among t!e Ara s w!i*! made t!em !elpless slaves of *arnal indulgen*e# .n Ara ia, w!ere superfluities la*&ed, t!e temptation of ne*essary food lay always on men# 4a*! morsel w!i*! passed t!eir lips mig!t, if t!ey were not wat*!ful, e*ome a pleasure# 2u3uries mig!t e as plain as running water or a s!ady tree, w!ose rareness and misuse often turned t!em into lusts# (!eir story reminded me of Apollonius? ?Come off it, you men of (arsus, sitting on your river li&e geese, drun&en wit! its w!ite waterA? (!en t!irty t!ousand pounds in gold *ame up from A&a a for me and my *ream *amel, 'od!ei!a, t!e est of my remaining stud# S!e was Atei a- red and !ad won many ra*es for !er old owner- also, s!e was in splendid *ondition, fat ut not too fat, !er pads !ardened y mu*! pra*ti*e over t!e nort!ern flints, and !er *oat t!i*& and matted# S!e was not tall, and loo&ed !eavy, ut was do*ile and smoot! to ride, turning left or rig!t if t!e saddle-!orn were tapped on t!e re@uired side# So . rode !er wit!out a sti*&, *omforta ly reading a oo& w!en t!e mar*! permitted# As my proper men were at (afile! or A+ra&, or out on mission, . as&ed :eisal for temporary followers# $e lent me !is two Atei a !orsemen, Ser> and "ameid) and, to !elp *arry my gold, added to t!e party S!ei&! Motlog, w!ose wort! we !ad dis*overed w!en our armoured *ars e3plored t!e plains elow Mudowwara for (e u&# Motlog !ad gone as sponsor, pointing out t!e *ountry from a per*! !ig! on t!e piled aggage of a o3-:ord# (!ey were das!ing in and out of sand-!ills at speed, t!e :ords swaying li&e laun*!es in a swell# At one ad end t!ey s&idded !alf-round on two w!eels *ra+ily# Motlog was tossed out on !is !ead# Mars!all stopped t!e *ar and ran a*& *ontrite, wit! ready e3*uses for t!e driving) ut t!e

S!ei&!, ruefully ru ing !is !ead, said gently ?Don?t e angry wit! me# . !ave not learnt to ride t!ese t!ings?# (!e gold was in t!ousand-pound ags# . gave two ags ea*! to fourteen of Motlog?s twenty men, and too& t!e last two myself# A ag weig!ed twenty-two pounds, and in t!e awful road-*onditions two were weig!t enoug! for a *amel, and swung fairly on eit!er side in t!e saddle- ags# 'e started at noon, !oping to ma&e a good first stage efore getting into t!e trou le of t!e !ills- ut unfortunately it turned wet after !alf an !our, and a steady rain soa&ed us t!roug! and t!roug!, and made our *amels? !air *url li&e a wet dog?s# Motlog at t!at pre*ise stage saw a tent, S!erif :a!ad?s, in t!e *orner of a sandstone pi&e# Despite my urging, !e voted to spend t!e nig!t t!ere, and see w!at it loo&ed li&e on t!e !ills to-morrow# . &new t!is would e a fatal *ourse, wasting days in inde*ision- so . said farewell to !im and rode on wit! my two men, and wit! si3 S!o e&- ound $oweitat, w!o !ad >oined our *aravan# (!e argument !ad delayed us, and *onse@uently we only rea*!ed t!e foot of t!e pass at dar&# %y t!e sad, soft rain we were made rat!er sorry for our virtue, in*lined to envy Motlog !is !ospitality wit! :a!ad, w!en suddenly a red spar& to our left drew us a*ross to find Sale! i n S!efia *amped t!ere in a tent and t!ree *aves, wit! a !undred of !is freed-men fig!ters from 1en o# Sale!, t!e son of poor old Mo!ammed, our >ester, was t!e proper lad w!o !ad *arried 'e>! y assault on <i*&ery?s field-day# ?;heyf ent< B$ow are youJ?C said . earnestly twi*e or t!ri*e# $is eyes spar&led at t!e /u!eina manner# $e *ame near me and wit! owed !ead and intense voi*e poured out a string of twenty ?;heyf ents? efore drawing reat!# . disli&ed eing outdone, so replied wit! a do+en as solemnly# $e too& me up wit! anot!er of !is long ursts, many more t!an twenty t!is time# So . gave up trying to learn !ow many are t!e possi le repetitions of salutations in 'adi 1en o# $e wel*omed me, in spite of my dren*!ed *ondition, to !is own *arpet in !is tent and gave me a new garment of !is mot!er?s sewing, w!ile waiting for t!e !ot stew of meat and ri*e# (!en we lay down and slept a full nig!t of great satisfa*tion, !earing t!e patter of rain on t!e dou le *anvas of !is Me**an tent# .n t!e morning we were off at dawn, mun*!ing a !andful of Sal-e!?s read# As we set foot on t!e as*ent, Ser> loo&ed up and said, ?(!e mountain wears !is s&ull-*ap?# (!ere was a w!ite dome of snow on every *rest) and t!e Atei a pus!ed @ui*&ly and *uriously up t!e pass to feel t!is new wonder wit! t!eir !ands# (!e *amels, too, were ignorant, and stret*!ed t!eir slow ne*&s down to sniff its w!iteness twi*e or t!ri*e in tired in@uiry) ut t!en drew t!eir !eads away and loo&ed forward wit!out lifeinterest, on*e more# 8ur ina*tivity lasted only anot!er moment) for, as we put our !eads over t!e last ridge, a wind from t!e nort!-east too& us in t!e teet!, wit! a *old so swift and iting t!at we gasped for reat! and turned !urriedly a*& into s!elter# .t seemed as if it would e fatal to fa*e it) ut t!at we &new was silly- so we pulled ourselves toget!er and rode !ard t!roug! its first e3treme to t!e !alf-s!elter of t!e valley# Ser> and "ameid, terrified y t!ese new pains in t!eir lungs, t!oug!t t!ey were strangling) and to spare t!em t!e mental struggle of passing a friendly *amp, . led our little party aside e!ind Maulud?s !ill, so t!at we saw not!ing of !is weat!er- eaten for*e# (!ese men of Maulud?s !ad een *amped in t!is pla*e, four t!ousand feet a ove t!e sea, for two mont!s wit!out relief# (!ey !ad to live in s!allow dug-outs on t!e !ill-side# (!ey !ad no fuel e3*ept t!e sparse, wet wormwood, over w!i*! t!ey were >ust a le to a&e t!eir ne*essary read every ot!er day# (!ey !ad no *lot!es ut &!a&i drill uniform of t!e %ritis! summer sort# (!ey slept in t!eir rainsodden verminous pits on empty or !alf-empty flour-sa*&s, si3 or eig!t of t!em toget!er in a &notted un*!, t!at enoug! of t!e worn lan&ets mig!t e pooled for warmt!# "at!er more t!an !alf of t!em died or were in>ured y t!e *old and wet) yet t!e ot!ers maintained t!eir wat*!, e3*!anging s!ots daily wit! t!e (ur&is! outposts, and prote*ted only y t!e in*lement weat!er from *rus!ing *ounter-atta*&# 'e owed mu*! to t!em, and more to Maulud, w!ose fortitude

stiffened t!em in t!eir duty# (!e old s*arred warrior?s !istory in t!e (ur&is! army was a *atalogue of affairs provo&ed y !is sturdy sense of Ara !onour and nationality, a *reed for w!i*! t!ree or four times !e !ad sa*rifi*ed !is prospe*ts# .t must !ave een a strong *reed w!i*! ena led !im to endure *!eerfully t!ree winter mont!s in front of Maan and to s!are out enoug! spirit among five !undred ordinary men to &eep t!em stout-!eartedly a out !im# 'e, for our one day, !ad a fill of !ards!ip# /ust on t!e ridge a out A a el 2issan t!e ground was *rusted wit! frost, and only t!e smart of t!e wind in our eyes !indered us- ut t!en our trou les egan# (!e *amels *ame to a standstill in t!e slus! at t!e ottom of a twenty-foot an& of slippery mud, and lowed at it !elplessly, as if to say t!at t!ey *ould not *arry us up t!at# 'e >umped off to !elp t!em, and slid a*& ourselves >ust as adly# At last we too& off our new, *!eris!ed oots, donned to armour us against t!e winter) and !auled t!e *amels up t!e gla*is arefoot, as on t!e >ourney down# (!at was t!e end of our *omfort, and we must !ave een off twenty times efore sunset# Some of t!e dismounts were involuntary, w!en our *amels side-slipped under us, and *ame down wit! t!e >ingle of *oin ringing t!roug! t!e !ollow rum le of t!eir *as&-li&e ellies# '!ile t!ey were strong t!is falling made t!em as angry as s!e-*amels *ould e- afterwards t!ey grew plaintive, and finally afraid# 'e also grew s!ort wit! one anot!er, for t!e foul wind gave us no rest# 0ot!ing in Ara ia *ould e more *utting t!an a nort! wind at Maan, and to-day?s was of t!e s!arpest and strongest# .t lew t!roug! our *lot!es as if we !ad none, fi3ed our fingers in *laws not a le to !old eit!er !alter or riding-sti*&, and *ramped our legs so t!at we !ad no grip of t!e saddle-pin# Conse@uently, w!en t!rown from our falling easts we pit*!ed off, to *ras! stiffly on t!e ground, still fro+en- rittle in t!e *ross-legged attitude of riding# $owever, t!ere was no rain, and t!e wind felt li&e a drying one, so we !eld on steadily to t!e nort!# %y evening we !ad almost made t!e rivulet of %asta# (!is meant t!at we were travelling more t!an a mile an !our) and for fear lest on t!e morrow we and our *amels would ot! e too tired to do so well, . pus!ed on in t!e dar& a*ross t!e little stream# .t was swollen, and t!e easts >i ed at it, so t!at we !ad to lead t!e way on foot, t!roug! t!ree feet of *!illy water# 8ver t!e !ig! ground, eyond, t!e wind uffeted us li&e an enemy- at a out nine o?*lo*& t!e ot!ers flung t!emselves *rying down on t!e ground and refused to go furt!er# . too, was very near *rying) sustained, indeed, only y my annoyan*e wit! t!eir open lamentations) and t!erefore relu*tantly glad at !eart to yield to t!eir e3ample# 'e uilt up t!e nine *amels in a p!alan3, and lay etween t!em in fair *omfort, listening to t!e driving wra*& *las!ing a out us as loud as t!e surges y nig!t round a s!ip at sea# (!e visi le stars were rilliant, seeming to *!ange groups and pla*es waywardly etween t!e *louds w!i*! s*udded over our !eads# 'e !ad ea*! two army lan&ets, and a pa*&et of *oo&ed read) so we were armed against evil and *ould sleep se*urely in t!e mud and *old#

&()PTE" L...I.
At dawn we went forward refres!ed- ut t!e weat!er !ad turned soft, wit! a greyness t!roug! w!i*! loomed t!e sad wormwood-*overed !ills# 9pon t!eir slopes t!e limestone ri s of t!is very old eart! stood wearily e3posed# .n t!eir !ollows our diffi*ulties in*reased wit! t!e mud# (!e misty valleys were sluggis! streams of melting snow- and at last new t!i*& s!owers of wet fla&es egan to fall# 'e rea*!ed t!e desolate ruins of 8dro! in a midday li&e twilig!t- a wind was lowing and dying intermittently, and slow-moving an&s of *loud and dri++le *losed us a out# . ore rig!t, to avoid t!e %eduin etween us and S!o e&- ut our $oweitat *ompanions led us straig!t upon t!eir *amp# 'e !ad ridden si3 miles in seven !ours, and t!ey were e3!austed# (!e two Atei a were not only e3!austed, ut demorali+ed, and swore mutinously t!at not!ing in t!e world s!ould &eep us from t!e tri al tents# 'e wrangled y t!e roadside under t!esoft drift# :or myself . felt @uite fres! and !appy, averse from t!e delay of needless tri al !ospitality# Geid?s penniless state was e3*ellent prete3t for a trial of strengt! wit! t!e 4domite winter# S!o e& was only

ten miles furt!er, and daylig!t !ad yet five !ours to run# So . de*ided to go on alone# .t would e @uite safe, for in su*! weat!er neit!er (ur& nor Ara was a road, and t!e roads were mine# . too& t!eir four t!ousand pounds from Ser> and "ameid, and *ursed t!em into t!e valley for *owards- w!i*! really t!ey were not# "ameid was *at*!ing !is reat! in great so s, and Serfs nervous pain mar&ed ea*! lur*! of !is *amel wit! a running moan# (!ey raved wit! misera le rage w!en . dismissed t!em and turned away# (!e trut! was t!at . !ad t!e est *amel# (!e e3*ellent 'od!ei!a struggled gamely forward under t!e weig!t of t!e e3tra gold# .n flat pla*es . rode !er- at as*ents and des*ents we used to slide toget!er side y side wit! *omi* a**idents, w!i*! s!e seemed rat!er to en>oy# %y sunset t!e snow-fall *eased) we were *oming down to t!e river of S!o e&, and *ould see a rown tra*& straggling over t!e opposite !ill towards t!e village# . tried a s!ort *ut, ut t!e fro+en *rust of t!e mud an&s de*eived me, and . *ras!ed t!roug! t!e *at-i*e Bw!i*! was s!arp, li&e &nivesC and ogged myself so deeply t!at . feared . was going to pass t!e nig!t t!ere, !alf in and !alf out of t!e sludge- or w!olly in, w!i*! would e a tidier deat!# 'od!ei!a, sensi le east, !ad refused to enter t!e morass- ut s!e stood at a loss on t!e !ard margin, and loo&ed so erly at my mudlar&ing# $owever, . managed, wit! t!e still-!eld !ead-stall, to persuade !er a little nearer# (!en . flung my ody suddenly a*&ward against t!e s@uel*!ing @uag, and, gra ing wildly e!ind my !ead, laid !old of !er fetlo*&# S!e was frig!tened, and started a*&- and !er pur*!ase dragged me *lear# 'e *rawled fart!er down t!e ed to a safe pla*e, and t!ere *rossedafter . !ad !esitatingly sat in t!e stream and was!ed off t!e weig!t of stin&ing *lay# S!iveringly . mounted again# 'e went over t!e ridge and down to t!e aseof t!e s!apely *one, w!ose mural *rown was t!e ring-wall of t!e old *astle of Monreale, very no le against t!e nig!t s&y# (!e *!al& was !ard, and it was free+ing) snow-drifts lay a foot deep ea*! side of t!e spiral pat! w!i*! wound up t!e !ill# (!e w!ite i*e *ra*&led desolately under my na&ed feet as we neared t!e gate, w!ere, to ma&e a stage entry, . *lim ed up y 'od!ei!a?s patient s!oulder into t!e saddle# (!en . repented, sin*e only y t!rowing myself sideways along !er ne*& did . avoid t!e voussoirs of t!e ar*! as s!e *ras!ed underneat! in !alf-terrorof t!is strange pla*e# . &new t!at S!erif A d el Main s!ould e still at S!o e&, so rode oldly up t!e silent street in t!e reeded starlig!t, w!i*! played wit! t!e w!ite i*i*les and t!eir underlying s!adow among t!e walls and snowy roofs and ground# (!e *amel stum led dou tfully over steps !idden eneat! a t!i*& *overing of snow- ut . !ad no *are of t!at, !aving rea*!ed my nig!t?s goal, and !aving so powdery a lan&et to fall on# At t!e *rossways . *alled out t!e salutation of a fair nig!t- and after a minute, a !us&y voi*e protested to God t!roug! t!e t!i*& sa*&ing w!i*! stuffed a loop!ole of t!e mean !ouse on my rig!t# . as&ed for A d el Mayein, and was told ?in t!e Government !ouse? w!i*! lay at t!e furt!er end of t!e old *astle?s en*einte# Arrived t!ere . *alled again# A door was flung open, and a *loud of smo&y lig!t streamed re*&lessly a*ross, w!irling wit! motes, t!roug! w!i*! la*& fa*es peered to &now w!o . was# . !ailed t!em friendly, y name, saying t!at . was *ome to eat a s!eep wit! t!e master- upon w!i*! t!ese slaves ran out, noisy wit! astonis!ment, and relieved me of 'od!ei!a, w!om t!ey led into t!e ree&ing sta le w!ere t!emselves lived# 8ne lit me wit! a flaming spar up t!e stone outside stairs to t!e !ouse door, and etween more servants, down a winding passage dripping wit! water from t!e ro&en roof, into a tiny room# (!ere lay A d el Muein upon a *arpet, fa*e down, reat!ing t!e least smo&y level of air# My legs were s!a&y, so . dropped eside !im, and gladly *opied !is position to avoid t!e *!o&ing fumes of a rass ra+ier of flaming wood w!i*! *ra*&led in a re*essed s!ot-window of t!e mig!ty outer wall# $e sear*!ed out for me a waist-*lot!, w!ile . stripped off my t!ings and !ung t!em to steam efore t!e fire, w!i*! e*ame less smarting to t!e eyes and t!roat as it urned down into red *oals# Meanw!ile A d el Mayin *lapped !is !ands for supper to e !astened and served fau(ari Btea in $arit! slang, so named from !is *ousin, governor of t!eir villageC !ot and spi*ed and often, till t!e mutton, oiled wit! raisins in utter, was *arried in#

$e e3plained, wit! !is lessings on t!e dis!, t!at ne3t day t!ey would starve or ro , sin*e !e !ad !ere two !undred men, and no food or money, and !is messengers to :eisal were !eld up in t!e snow# '!ereat ., too, *lapped !ands, *ommanding my saddle- ags, and presented !im wit! five !undred pounds on a**ount, till !is su sidy *ame# (!is was good payment for t!e food, and we were very merry over my oddness of riding alone, in winter, wit! a !undredweig!t and more of gold for aggage# . repeated t!at Geid, li&e !imself, was straitened) and told of Ser> and "ameid wit! t!e Ara s# (!e S!erif s eyes dar&ened, and !e made passes in t!e air wit! !is riding-sti*&# . e3plained, in e3tenuation of t!eir failure, t!at t!e *old did not trou le me, sin*e t!e 4nglis! *limate was of t!is sort most of t!e year# ?God for id it,? said A d el Muyein# After an !our !e e3*used !imself, e*ause !e !ad >ust married a S!o e& wife# 'e tal&ed of t!eir marriage, w!ose end was t!e earing of *!ildren- . wit!stood it, @uoting old Dionysus of (arsus# At !is si3ty years wit!out marriage t!ey were s!o*&ed, !olding pro*reation and eva*uation ali&e as inevita le movements of t!e ody) t!ey repeated t!eir !alf of t!e *ommandment to !onour parents# . as&ed !ow t!ey *ould loo& wit! pleasure on *!ildren, em odied proofs of t!eir *onsummated lustJ And invited t!em to pi*ture t!e minds of t!e *!ildren, seeing *rawl wormli&e out of t!e mot!er t!at loody, linded t!ing w!i*! was t!emselvesA .t sounded to !im a most e3*ellent >o&e, and after it we rolled up in t!e rugs and slept warmly# (!e fleas were serried, ut my na&edness, t!e Ara defen*e against a verminous ed, lessened t!eir plague- and t!e ruises did not prevail e*ause . was too tired# .n t!e morning . rose wit! a splitting !eada*!e, and said . must go on# (wo men were found to ride wit! me, t!oug! all said we s!ould not rea*! (afile! t!at nig!t# $owever, . t!oug!t it *ould not !e worse t!an yesterday) so we s&ated timorously down t!e rapid pat! to t!e plain a*ross w!i*! still stret*!ed t!e "oman road wit! its groups of fallen milestones, ins*ri ed y famous emperors# :rom t!is plain t!e two faint-!earts wit! me slipped a*& to t!eir fellows on t!e *astle-!ill# . pro*eeded, alternately on and off my *amel, li&e t!e day efore, t!oug! now t!e way was all too slippery, e3*ept on t!e an*ient paving, t!e last footprint of .mperial "ome w!i*! !ad on*e, so mu*! more pre*iously, played t!e (ur& to t!e desert dwellers# 8n it . *ould ride- ut . !ad to wal& and wade t!e dips w!ere t!e floods of fourteen *enturies !ad was!ed t!e road?s foundations out# "ain *ame on, and soa&ed me, and t!en it lew fine and free+ing till . *ra*&led in armour of w!ite sil&, li&e a t!eatre &nig!t- or li&e a ridal *a&e, !ard i*ed# (!e *amel and . were over t!e plain in t!ree !ours) wonderful going- ut our trou les were not ended# (!e snow was indeed as my guides !ad said, and *ompletely !id t!e pat!, w!i*! wound up!ill etween walls and dit*!es, and *onfused piles of stone# .t *ost me an infinity of pain to turn t!e first two *omers# 'od!ei!a, tired of wading to !er ony &nees in useless w!ite stuff, egan per*epti ly to flag# $owever, s!e got up one more steep it, only to miss t!e edge of t!e pat! in a an&ed pla*e# 'e fell toget!er some eig!teen feet down t!e !ill-side into a yard-deep drift of fro+en snow# After t!e fall s!e rose to !er feet w!impering and stood still, in a trem le# '!en !e-*amels so aul&ed, t!ey would die on t!eir spot, after days) and . feared t!at now . !ad found t!e limit of effort in s!e-*amels# . plunged to my ne*& in front of !er, and tried to tow !er out, vainly# (!en . spent a long time !itting !er e!ind# . mounted, and s!e sat down# . >umped off, !eaved !er up, and wondered if, per!aps, it was t!at t!e drift was too t!i*&# So . *arved !er a eautiful little road, a foot wide, t!ree deep, and eig!teen pa*es long, using my are feet and !ands as tools# (!e snow was so fro+en on t!e surfa*e t!at it too& all my weig!t first, to rea& it down, and t!en to s*oop it out# (!e *rust was s!arp, and *ut my wrists and an&les till t!ey led freely, and t!e roadside e*ame lined wit! pin& *rystals, loo&ing li&e pale, very pale, water-melon fles!# Afterwards . went a*& to 'od!ei!a, patiently standing t!ere, and *lim ed into t!e saddle# S!e started easily# 'e went running at it, and su*! was !er speed t!at t!e rus! *arried !er rig!t over t!e s!allow stuff, a*& to t!e proper road# 9p t!is we went *autiously, wit! me, afoot, sounding t!e pat! in front wit! my sti*&, or digging new passes w!en t!e drifts were deep# .n t!ree !ours we were on t!e summit, and found it wind-swept on t!e western side# So we left t!e tra*&, and s*ram led

unsteadily along t!e very ro&en *rest, loo&ing down a*ross t!e *!ess oard !ouses of Dana village, into sunny Ara a!, fres! and green t!ousands of feet elow# '!en t!e ridge served no more we did furt!er !eavy wor&, and at last 'od!ei!a aul&ed again# .t was getting serious, for t!e evening was near) suddenly . reali+ed t!e loneliness, and t!at if t!e nig!t found us yet eyond !elp on t!is !ill-top, 'od!ei!a would die, and s!e was a very no le east# (!ere was also t!e solid weig!t of gold, and . felt not sure !ow far, even in Ara ia, . *ould safely put si3 t!ousand sovereigns y t!e roadside wit! a signet as mar& of owners!ip, and leave t!em for a nig!t# So . too& !er a*& a !undred yards along our eaten tra*&, mounted, and *!arged !er at t!e an&# S!e responded# 'e urst t!roug! and over t!e nort!ern lip w!i*! loo&ed down on t!e Senussi village of "as!eidiya# (!is fa*e of t!e !ill, s!eltered from t!e wind and open to t!e sun all afternoon, !ad t!awed# 9nderneat! t!e superfi*ial snow lay wet and muddy ground) and w!en 'od!ei!a ran upon t!is at speed !er feet went from under !er and s!e sprawled, wit! !er four feet lo*&ed# So on !er tail, wit! me yet in t!e saddle, we went sliding round and down a !undred feet# ,er!aps it !urt t!e tail Bt!ere were stones under t!e snowC for on t!e level s!e sprang up unsteadily, grunting, and las!ed it a out li&e a s*orpion?s# (!en s!e egan to run at ten miles an !our down t!e greasy pat! towards "as!eidiya, sliding and plunging wildly- wit! me, in terror of a fall and ro&en ones, *linging to t!e !orns of t!e saddle# A *rowd of Ara s, Geid?s men, weat!er- ound !ere on t!eir way to :eysal, ran out w!en t!ey !eard !er trumpeting approa*!, and s!outed wit! >oy at so distinguis!ed an entry to t!e village# . as&ed t!em t!e news) t!ey told me all was well# (!en . remounted, for t!e last eig!t miles into (afile!, w!ere . gave Geid !is letters and some money, and went gladly to ed # # # flea-proof for anot!er nig!t#

&()PTE" .&
Morning found me nearly snow- lind, ut glad and vigorous# . *ast a out for somet!ing to fill t!e ina*tive days efore t!e ot!er gold arrived# (!e final >udgement was to ma&e a personal e3amination of t!e approa*!es to ;era&, and t!e ground over w!i*! we would later advan*e to /ordan# . as&ed Geid to ta&e from Motlog t!e *oming twenty-four t!ousand pounds, and spend w!at was ne*essary for *urrent e3penses until my return# Geid told me t!ere was anot!er 4nglis!man in (afile!# (!e news astonis!ed me, and . went off to meet 2ieutenant ;ir& ride, a young Ara i*-spea&ing staff offi*er sent y Deedes to report intelligen*e possi ilities on t!e Ara :ront# .t was t!e eginning of a *onne*tion profita le to us, and *redita le to ;ir& ride) a ta*iturn, enduring fellow, only a oy in years, ut rut!less in a*tion, w!o messed for eig!t mont!s wit! t!e Ara offi*ers, t!eir silent *ompanion# (!e *old !ad passed off and movement, even on t!e !eig!ts, was pra*ti*a le# 'e *rossed 'adi $esa, and rode as far as t!e edge of t!e /ordan <alley, w!ose dept!s were noisy wit! Allen y?s advan*e# (!ey said t!e (ur&s yet !eld /eri*!o# (!en*e we turned a*& to (afile!, after a re*onnaissan*e very assuring for our future# 4a*! step of our road to >oin t!e %ritis! was possi le- most of t!em easy# (!e weat!er was so fine t!at we mig!t reasona ly egin at on*e- and*ould !ope to finis! in a mont!# Geid !eard me *oldly# . saw Motlog ne3t !im, and greeted !im sar*asti*ally, as&ing w!at was !is tally of t!e gold- t!en . egan to repeat my programme of w!at we mig!t fairly do# Geid stopped me- ?%ut t!at will need a lot of money#? . said, ?0ot at all?- our funds in !and would *over it, and more# Geid replied t!at !e !ad not!ing) and w!en . gaped at !im, muttered rat!er s!amefa*edly t!at !e !ad spent all . roug!t# . t!oug!t !e was >o&ing- ut !e went on to say t!at so mu*! !ad een due to D!ia , s!ei&! of (afile!) so mu*! to t!e villagers) so mu*! to t!e /a+i $oweitat) so mu*! to t!e %eni Sa&!r# 8nly for a defensive was su*! e3penditure *on*eiva le# (!e peoples named were elements *entring in (afile!, men w!ose lood feuds made t!em impossi le for use nort! of 'adi $esa# Admittedly, t!e S!erifs, as t!ey advan*ed, enrolled all t!e men of every distri*t at a mont!ly wage- ut it was

perfe*tly understood t!at t!e wage was fi*titious, to e paid only if t!ey !ad een *alled on for a*tive servi*e# :eisal !ad more t!an forty t!ousand on !is A&a a oo&s- w!ile !is w!ole su sidy from 4ngland would not pay seventeen t!ousand# (!e wages of t!e rest were nominally due and often as&ed for- ut not a lawful lia ility# $owever, Geid said t!at !e !ad paid t!em# . was ag!ast) for t!is meant t!e *omplete ruin of my plans and !opes, t!e *ollapse of our effort to &eep fait! wit! Allen y# Geid stu*& to !is word t!at t!e money was all gone# Afterwards . went off to learn t!e trut! from 0asir, w!o was in ed wit! fever# $e despondently said t!at everyt!ing was wrong--Geid too young and s!y to *ounter !is dis!onest, *owardly *ounsel lors# All nig!t . t!oug!t over w!at *ould e done, ut found a lan&) and w!en morning *ame *ould only send word to Geid t!at, if !e would not return t!e money, . must go away# $e sent me a*& !is supposed a**ount of t!e spent money# '!ile we were pa*&ing, /oy*e and Mars!all arrived# (!ey !ad ridden from Guweira to give me a pleasant surprise# . told t!em w!y it !ad !appened t!at . was going a*& to Allen y to put my furt!er employment in !is !ands# /oy*e made a vain appeal to Geid, and promised to e3plain to :eisal# $e would *lose down my affairs and disperse my odyguard# So . was a le, wit! only four men, to set off, late t!at very afternoon, for %eers!e a, t!e @ui*&est way to %ritis! $ead@uarters# (!e *oming of spring made t!e first part of t!e ride along t!e edge of t!e Ara a s*arp surpassingly eautiful, and my farewell mood s!owed me its eauties, &eenly# (!e ravines were *lot!ed elow wit! trees- ut near to us, y t!e top, t!eir pre*ipitous flan&s, as seen from a ove, were a pat*!wor& of *lose lawns, w!i*! tipped toward downrig!t fa*es of are ro*& of many *olours# Some of t!e *olours were mineral, in t!e ro*& itself- ut ot!ers were a**idental, due to water from t!e melting snow falling over t!e *liff-edge, eit!er in drifts of dusty spray, or diamond-strings down !anging tresses of green fern# At %useira, t!e little village on a !ull of ro*& over t!e a yss, t!ey insisted t!at we !alt to eat# . was willing, e*ause if we fed our *amels !ere wit! a little arley we mig!t ride all nig!t and rea*! %eers!e a on t!e morrow- ut to avoid delay . refused to enter t!eir !ouses, and instead ate in t!e little *emetery, off a tom , into w!ose >oints were *emented plaits of !air, t!e sa*rifi*ed !eadornaments of mourners# Afterwards we went down t!e +ig+ags of t!e great pass into t!e !ot ottom of 'adi D!a!al, over w!i*! t!e *liffs and t!e !ills so drew toget!er t!at !ardly did t!e stars s!ine into its pit*!y la*&ness# 'e !alted a moment w!ile our *amels stilled t!e nervous trem ling of t!eir forelegs after t!e strain of t!e terri le des*ent# (!en we plas!ed, fetlo*& deep, down t!e swift stream, under a long ar*! of rustling am oos, w!i*! met so nearly over our !eads t!at t!eir fans rus!ed our fa*es# (!e strange e*!oes of t!e vaulted passage frig! tened our *amels into a trot# Soon we were out of it, and out of t!e !orns of t!e valley, s*ouring a*ross t!e openAra a# 'e rea*!ed t!e *entral ed, and found t!at we were off t!e tra*&--not wonderful, for we were steering only on my t!ree-year-old memories of 0ew*om e?s map# A !alf-!our was wasted in finding a ramp for t!e *amels, up t!e eart! *liff# At last we found one, and t!readed t!e windings of t!e marly la yrint! eyond--a strange pla*e, sterile wit! salt, li&e a roug! sea suddenly stilled, wit! all its tossing waves transformed into !ard, fi rous eart!, very grey under to-nig!t?s !alf-moon# Afterwards we aimed westward till t!e tall ran*!ed tree of $us outlined itself against t!e s&y, and we !eard t!e murmurings of t!e great spring w!i*! flowed out from t!e roots# 8ur *amels dran& a little# (!ey !ad *ome down five t!ousand feet from t!e (afile! !ills, and !ad to *lim up t!ree t!ousand now to ,alestine# .n t!e little foot-!ills efore 'adi Murra, suddenly, we saw a fire of large logs, fres!ly piled, and still at w!ite !eat# 0o one was visi le, proof t!at t!e &indlers were a war party- yet it was not &indled in nomad fas!ion# (!e liveliness s!owed t!at t!ey were still near it- t!e si+e t!at t!ey were many- so pruden*e made us !urry on# A*tually it was t!e *amp-fire of a %ritis! se*tion of :ord *ars, under t!e two famous Ma*s, loo&ing for a *ar-road from Sinai to A&a a# (!ey were !idden in t!e s!adows, *overing us wit! t!eir 2ewis guns# 'e *lim ed t!e pass as day ro&e# (!ere was a little rain, almy after t!e e3treme of (aflle!# "ags of

t!innest *loud stood unreasona ly motionless in t!e !ills, as we rode over t!e *omforta le plain, to %eers!e a, a out noon- a good performan*e, down and up !ills for nearly eig!ty miles# (!ey told us /eri*!o was >ust ta&en# . went t!roug! to Allen y?s !ead@uarters# $ogart! was t!ere on t!e platform# (o !im . *onfessed t!at . !ad made a mess of t!ings- and !ad *ome to eg Allen y to find me some smaller part elsew!ere# . !ad put all myself into t!e Ara usiness, and !ad *ome to wre*& e*ause of my si*& >udgement) t!e o**asion eing Geid, own rot!er to :eisal, and a little man . really li&ed# . now !ad no tri*&s left wort! a meal in t!e Ara mar&et-pla*e, and wanted t!e se*urity of *ustom- to e *onveyed) to pillow myself on duty and o edien*e- irresponsi ly# . *omplained t!at sin*e landing in Ara ia . !ad !ad options and re@uests, never an order- t!at . was tired to deat! of free-will, and of many t!ings eside free-will# :or a year and a !alf . !ad een in motion, riding a t!ousand miles ea*! mont! upon *amels- wit! added nervous !ours in *ra+y aeroplanes, or rus!ing a*ross *ountry in powerful *ars# .n my last five a*tions . !ad een !it, and my ody so dreaded furt!er pain t!at now . !ad to for*e myself under fire# Generally . !ad een !ungrylately always *old- and frost and dirt !ad poisoned my !urts into a festering mass of sores# $owever, t!ese worries would !ave ta&en t!eir due petty pla*e, in my despite of t!e ody, and of my soiled ody in parti*ular, ut for t!e ran&ling fraudulen*e w!i*! !ad to e my mind?s !a it- t!at preten*e to lead t!e national uprising of anot!er ra*e, t!e daily posturing in alien dress, prea*!ing in alien spee*!- wit! e!ind it a sense t!at t!e ?promises? on w!i*! t!e Ara s wor&ed were wort! w!at t!eir armed strengt! would e w!en t!e moment of fulfilment *ame# 'e !ad deluded ourselves t!at per!aps pea*e mig!t find t!e Ara s a le, un!elped and untaug!t, to defend t!emselves wit! paper tools# Meanw!ile we glo+ed our fraud y *ondu*ting t!eir ne*essary war purely and *!eaply# %ut now t!is gloss !ad gone from me# C!argea le against my *on*eit were t!e *auseless, ineffe*tual deat!s of $esa# My will !ad gone and . feared to e alone, lest t!e winds of *ir*umstan*e, or power, or lust, low my empty soul away#

&()PTE" .&I
Diplomati*ally, $ogart! replied not a word, ut too& me to rea&fast wit! Clayton# (!ere . gat!ered t!at Smuts !ad *ome from t!e 'ar Ca inet to ,alestine, wit! news w!i*! !ad *!anged our relative situation# :or days t!ey !ad een trying to get me to t!e Conferen*es, and finally !ad sent out aeroplanes to find (afile!) ut t!e pilots !ad dropped t!eir messages near S!o e&, among Ara s too weat!er-daunted to move# Clayton said t!at in t!e new *onditions t!ere *ould e no @uestion of letting me off# (!e 4ast was only now going to egin# Allen y told me t!at t!e 'ar Ca inet were leaning !eavily on !im to repair t!e stalemate of t!e 'est# $e was to ta&e at least Damas*us) and, if possi le, Aleppo, as soon as !e *ould# (ur&ey was to e put out of t!e war on*e and for all# $is diffi*ulty lay wit! !is eastern flan&, t!e rig!t, w!i*! to-day rested on /ordan# $e !ad *alled me to *onsider if t!e Ara s *ould relieve !im of its urden# (!ere was no es*ape for me# . must ta&e up again my mantle of fraud in t!e 4ast# 'it! my *ertain *ontempt for !alf-measures . too& it up @ui*&ly and wrapped myself in it *ompletely# .t mig!t e fraud or it mig!t e far*e- no one s!ould say t!at . *ould not play it# So . did not even mention t!e reasons w!i*! !ad roug!t me a*ross) ut pointed out t!at t!is was t!e /ordan s*!eme seen from t!e %ritis! angle# Allen y assented, and as&ed if we *ould still do it# . said- not at present, unless new fa*tors were first dis*ounted# (!e first was Maan# 'e s!ould !ave to ta&e it efore we *ould afford a se*ond sp!ere# .f more transport gave a longer range to t!e units of t!e Ara "egular Army, t!ey *ould ta&e position some miles nort! of Maan and *ut t!e railway permanently, so for*ing t!e Maan garrison to *ome out and fig!t t!em) and in t!e field t!e Ara s would easily defeat t!e (ur&s# 'e would re@uire seven !undred aggage *amels) more guns and ma*!ine-guns) and, lastly, assuran*e against flan& atta*& from Amman, w!ile we dealt wit! Maan#

8n t!is asis a s*!eme was wor&ed out# Allen y ordered down to A&a a two units of t!e Camel (ransport Corps, an organi+ation of 4gyptians under %ritis! offi*ers, w!i*! !ad proved !ig!ly su**essful in t!e %eers!e a *ampaign# .t was a great gift, for its *arrying *apa*ity ensured t!at we s!ould now e a le to &eep our four t!ousand regulars eig!ty miles in advan*e of t!eir ase# (!e guns and ma*!ine-guns were also promised# As for s!ielding us against atta*& from Amman, Allen y said t!at was easily arranged# $e intended, for !is own flan&?s se*urity, s!ortly to ta&e Salt, eyond /ordan, and !old it wit! an .ndian %rigade# A Corps Conferen*e was due ne3t day , and . was to stay for it# At t!is Conferen*e it was determined t!at t!e Ara Army move instantly to t!e Maan ,lateau, to ta&e Maan# (!at t!e %ritis! *ross t!e /ordan, o**upy Salt, and destroy sout! of Amman as mu*! of t!e railway as possi le) espe*ially t!e great tunnel# .t was de ated w!at s!are t!e Amman Ara s s!ould ta&e in t!e %ritis! operation# %ols t!oug!t we s!ould >oin in t!e advan*e# . opposed t!is, sin*e t!e later retirement to Salt would *ause rumour and rea*tion, and it would e easier if we did not enter till t!is !ad spent itself# C!etwode, w!o was to dire*t t!e advan*e, as&ed !ow !is men were to distinguis! friendly from !ostile Ara s, sin*e t!eir tenden*y was a pre>udi*e against all wearing s&irts# . was sitting s&irted in t!eir midst and replied, naturally, t!at s&irt-wearers disli&ed men in uniform# (!e laug! *lin*!ed t!e @uestion, and it was agreed t!at we support t!e %ritis! retention of Salt only after t!ey *ame to rest t!ere# As soon as Maan fell, t!e Ara "egulars would move up and draw supplies from /eri*!o# (!e seven !undred *amels would *ome along, still giving t!em eig!ty miles? radius of a*tion# (!is would e enoug! to let t!em wor& a ove Amman in Allen y?s grand atta*& along t!e line from t!e Mediterranean to t!e Dead Sea, t!e se*ond p!ase of t!e operation, dire*ted to t!e *apture of Damas*us# My usiness was finis!ed# . went to Cairo for two days, and t!en was flown to A&a a, to ma&e my new terms wit! :eisal# . told !im . t!oug!t t!ey !ad treated me adly, in diverting wit!out my &nowledge money of t!e spe*ial a**ount w!i*!, y agreement, . !ad drawn solely for t!e Dead Sea *ampaign# Conse@uently, . !ad left Geid, it eing impossi le for a flouted adviser to *arry on# Allen y !ad sent me a*&# %ut my return did not mean t!at t!e damage was repaired# A great opportunity !ad een missed, and a valua le advan*e t!rown away# (!e (ur&s would reta&e (afile! in a wee&?s time wit!out diffi*ulty# :eisal was distressed lest t!e loss of (afile! do !is reputation !arm) and s!o*&ed y my little interest in its fate# (o *omfort !im, . pointed out t!at it now meant not!ing to us# (!e two interests were t!e e3tremes of !is area, Amman and Maan# (afile! was not wort! losing a man over) indeed, if t!e (ur&s moved t!ere, t!ey would wea&en eit!er Maan or Amman, and ma&e our real wor& easier# $e was a little re*on*iled y t!is, ut sent urgent warnings to Geid of t!e *oining danger- wit!out avail, for si3 days later t!e (ur&s retoo& (afile!# Meanw!ile, :eisal re-arranged t!e asis of !is army funds# . gave !im t!e good news t!at Allen y, as t!an&s for t!e Dead Sea and A a el 2issan, !ad put t!ree !undred t!ousand pounds into my independent *redit, and given us a train of seven !undred pa*&-*amels *omplete wit! personnel and e@uipment# (!is raised great >oy in all t!e army, for t!e aggage *olumns would ena le us to prove t!e value in t!e field of t!e Ara regular troops on w!ose training and organi+ation /oy*e, /aafar, and so many Ara and 4nglis! offi*ers !ad wor&ed for mont!s# 'e arranged roug! time-ta les and s*!emes- t!en . s!ipped usily a*& to 4gypt#

,##- EI2(T. The "uin of (i/h (ope

&()PTE"S .&II T# .&+II
$n con&unction with Allenby we laid a triple plan to &oin hands across .ordan, to capture #oan, and to cut off #edina, in one operation. This was too proud and neither of us fulfilled his part. So the Arabs e%changed the care of the placid #edina railway for the greater burden of investing, in #oan, a Turk force as big as their available regular army# To help in this duty Allenby increased our transport, that we might have longer range and more mobility. #oan was impregnable for us, so we concentrated on cutting its northern railway and diverting the Turkish effort to relieve its garrison from the Amman side# ;learly no decision lay in such tactics! but the German advance in +landers at this moment took from Allenby his "ritish units9 and conse4uently his advantage over the Turks. ,e notified us that he was unable to attack# A stalemate, as we were, throughout 565= was an intolerable prospect. 2e schemed to strengthen the Arab army for autumn operations near 1eraa and in the "eni Sakhr country. $f this drew off one division from the enemy in :alestine it would make possible a "ritish ancillary attack, one of whose ends would be our &unction in the lower .ordan valley, by .ericho. After a month0s preparation this plan was dropped, because of its risk, and because a better offered#

&()PTE" .&II
.n Cairo, w!ere . spent four days, our affairs were now far from !ap!a+ard# Allen y?s smile !ad given us Staff# 'e !ad supply offi*ers, a s!ipping e3pert, an ordnan*e e3pert, an intelligen*e ran*!- under Alan Dawnay, rot!er of t!e ma&er of t!e %eers!e a plan, w!o !ad now gone to :ran*e# Dawnay was Allen y?s greatest gift to us--greater t!an t!ousands of aggage *amels# As a professional offi*er, !e !ad t!e *lass-tou*!- so t!at even t!e reddest !earer re*ogni+ed an aut!enti* redness# $is was an understanding mind, feeling instin*tively t!e spe*ial @ualities of re ellion- at t!e same time, !is wartraining enri*!ed !is treatment of t!is antit!eti* su >e*t# $e married war and re ellion in !imself) as, of old in 1en o, it !ad een my dream every regular offi*er would# 1et, in t!ree years? pra*ti*e, only Dawnay su**eeded# $e *ould not ta&e *omplete, dire*t *ommand, e*ause !e did not &now Ara i*) and e*ause of !is :landers- ro&en !ealt!# $e !ad t!e gift, rare among 4nglis!men, of ma&ing t!e est of a good t!ing# $e was e3*eptionally edu*ated, for an Army offi*er, and imaginative# $is perfe*t manner made !im friends wit! all ra*es and *lasses# :rom !is tea*!ing we egan to learn t!e te*!ni@ue of fig!ting in matters we !ad een *ontent to settle y rude and wasteful rules of t!um # $is sense of fitness remodelled our standing# (!e Ara Movement !ad lived as a wild-man s!ow, wit! its means as small as its duties and prospe*ts# $en*eforward Allen y *ounted it as a sensi le part of !is s*!eme) and t!e responsi ility upon us of doing etter t!an !e wis!ed, &nowing t!at forfeit for our failure would ne*essarily e partpaid in !is soldiers? lives, removed it terrifyingly furt!er from t!e sp!ere of >oyous adventure# 'it! /oy*e we laid our triple plan to support Allen y?s first stro&e# .n our *enter t!e Ara regulars, under /aafar, would o**upy t!e line a mar*! nort! of Maan# /oy*e wit! our armoured *ars would slip down to Mudowwara, and destroy t!e railway--permanently t!is time, for now we were ready to *ut

off Medina# .n t!e nort!, Mer+u&, wit! myself, would >oin Allen y w!en !e fell a*& to Salt a out Mar*! t!e t!irtiet!# Su*! a date gave me leisure- and . settled to go to S!o e&, wit! Geid and 0asir# .t was springtime- very pleasant after t!e iting winter, w!ose e3*esses seemed dream-li&e, in t!e new fres!ness and strengt! of nature- for t!ere was strengt! in t!is !ill-top season, w!en a *!ill s!arpness at sundown *orre*ted t!e languid noons# All life was alive wit! us- even t!e inse*ts# .n our first nig!t . !ad laid my *as!mere !ead-*lot! on t!e ground under my !ead as pad- and at dawn, w!en . too& it up again, twenty-eig!t li*e were tangled in its snowy te3ture# Afterwards we slept on our saddle-*overs, t!e tanned flee*e !oo&ed last of all over t!e saddle-load to ma&e a slippy and sweat-proof seat for t!e rider# 4ven so, we were not left alone# (!e *amel-ti*&s, w!i*! !ad drun& t!emselves Bwit! lood from our tet!ered *amelsC into tig!t slatylue *us!ions, t!um nail wide, and t!i*&, used to *reep under us, !ugging t!e leat!ern underside of t!e s!eeps&ins- and if we rolled on t!em in t!e nig!t, our weig!t urst t!em to rown mats of lood and dust# '!ile we were in t!is *omforta le air, wit! mil& plentiful a out us, news *ame from A+ra&, of Ali i n el $ussein and t!e .ndians still on fait!ful wat*!# 8ne .ndian !ad died of *old, and also Daud, my Ageyli oy, t!e friend of :arra># :arra> !imself told us# (!ese two !ad een friends from *!ild!ood, in eternal gaiety- wor&ing toget!er, sleeping toget!er, s!aring every s*rape and profit wit! t!e openness and !onesty of perfe*t love# So . was not astonis!ed to see :arra> loo& dar& and !ard of fa*e, leaden-eyed and old, w!en !e *ame to tell me t!at !is fellow was dead) and from t!at day till !is servi*e ended !e made no more laug!ter for us# $e too& pun*tilious *are, greater even t!an efore, of my *amel, of t!e *offee, of my *lot!es and saddles, and fell to praying !is t!ree regular prayings every day# (!e ot!ers offered t!emselves to *omfort !im, ut instead !e wandered restlessly, grey and silent, very mu*! alone# '!en loo&ed at from t!is torrid 4ast, our %ritis! *on*eption of woman seemed to parta&e of t!e nort!ern *limate w!i*! !ad also *ontra*ted our fait!# .n t!e Mediterranean, woman?s influen*e and supposed purpose were made *ogent y an understanding in w!i*! s!e was a**orded t!e p!ysi*al world in simpli*ity, un*!allenged, li&e t!e poor in spirit# 1et t!is same agreement, y denying e@uality of se3, made love, *ompanions!ip and friendliness impossi le etween man and woman# 'oman e*ame a ma*!ine for mus*ular e3er*ise, w!ile man?s psy*!i* side *ould e sla&ed only amongst !is peers# '!en*e arose t!ese partners!ips of man and man, to supply !uman nature wit! more t!an t!e *onta*t of fles! wit! fles!# 'e 'esterners of t!is *omple3 age, mon&s in our odies? *ells, w!o sear*!ed for somet!ing to fill us eyond spee*! and sense, were, y t!e mere effort of t!e sear*!, s!ut from it for ever# 1et it *ame to *!ildren li&e t!ese unt!in&ing Ageyl, *ontent to re*eive wit!out return, even from one anot!er# 'e ra*&ed ourselves wit! in!erited remorse for t!e fles!-indulgen*e of our gross irt!, striving to pay for it t!roug! a lifetime of misery) meeting !appiness, life?s overdraft, y a *ompensating !ell, and stri&ing a ledger- alan*e of good or evil against a day of >udgement# Meanw!ile at A a el 2issan t!ings went not well wit! our s*!eme to destroy t!e Maan garrison y posting t!e Ara Army a*ross t!e railway in t!e nort!, and for*ing t!em to open attle, as Allen y atta*&ed t!eir ase and supports at Amman# :eisal and /aafar li&ed t!e s*!eme, ut t!eir offi*ers *lamoured for dire*t atta*& on Maan# /oy*e pointed out t!eir wea&ness in artillery and ma*!ine-guns, t!eir untried men, t!e greater strategi*al wisdom of t!e railway s*!eme- it was of no effe*t# Maulud, !ot for immediate assault, wrote memoranda to :eisal upon t!e danger of 4nglis! interferen*e wit! Ara li erty# At su*! a moment /oy*e fell ill of pneumonia, and left for Sue+# Dawnay *ame up to reason wit! t!e mal*ontents# $e was our est *ard, wit! !is proved military reputation, e3@uisite field- oots, and air of well-dressed s*ien*e) ut !e *ame too late, for t!e Ara offi*ers now felt t!eir !onour to e engaged# 'e agreed t!at we must give t!em t!eir !eads on t!e point, t!oug! we were really all-powerful, wit! t!e money, t!e supplies, and now t!e transport, in our !ands# $owever, if t!e people were slattern,

w!y, t!en, t!ey must !ave a slatternly government- and parti*ularly must we go slow wit! t!at selfgoverning demo*ra*y, t!e Ara Army, in w!i*! servi*e was as voluntary as enlistment# %etween us we were familiar wit! t!e (ur&is!, t!e 4gyptian and t!e %ritis! Armies- and *!ampioned our respe*tive tas&-masters# /oy*e alleged t!e parade-magnifi*en*e of !is 4gyptians--formal men, w!o loved me*!ani*al movement and surpassed %ritis! troops in p!ysi@ue, in smartness, in perfe*tion of drill# . maintained t!e frugality of t!e (ur&s, t!at s!am ling, ragged army of serfs# (!e %ritis! Army we all were a*@uainted wit! in a fas!ion) and as we *ontrasted servi*es we found variety of o edien*e a**ording to t!e degree of ordered for*e w!i*! served ea*! as san*tion# .n 4gypt soldiers elonged to t!eir servi*e wit!out *!e*& of pu li* opinion# Conse@uently t!ey !ad a pea*e-in*entive to perfe*tion of formal *ondu*t# .n (ur&ey t!e men were, in t!eory, e@ually t!e offi*ers?- ody and soul- ut t!eir lot was mitigated y t!e possi ility of es*ape# .n 4ngland t!e voluntary re*ruit served as utterly as any (ur&, e3*ept t!at t!e growt! of *ivil de*en*y !ad ta&en away from aut!ority t!e resour*e of infli*ting dire*t p!ysi*al pain- ut in pra*ti*e, upon our less o tuse population, t!e effe*ts of pa*&-drill or fatigues fell little s!ort of an 8riental system# .n t!e regular Ara Army t!ere was no power of punis!ment w!atever- t!is vital differen*e s!owed itself in all our troops# (!ey !ad no formality of dis*ipline) t!ere was no su ordination# Servi*e was a*tive) atta*& always imminent- and, li&e t!e Army of .taly, men re*ogni+ed t!e duty of defeating t!e enemy# :or t!e rest t!ey were not soldiers, ut pilgrims, intent always to go t!e little fart!er# . was not dis*ontented wit! t!is state of t!ings, for it !ad seemed to me t!at dis*ipline, or at least formal dis*ipline, was a virtue of pea*e- a *!ara*ter or stamp y w!i*! to mar& off soldiers from *omplete men, and o literate t!e !umanity of t!e individual# .t resolved itself easiest into t!e restri*tive, t!e ma&ing men not do t!is or t!at- and so *ould e fostered y a rule severe enoug! to ma&e t!em despair of diso edien*e# .t was a pro*ess of t!e mass, an element of t!e impersonal *rowd, inappli*a le to one man, sin*e it involved o edien*e, a duality of will# .t was not to impress upon men t!at t!eir will must a*tively se*ond t!e offi*er?s, for t!en t!ere would !ave een, as in t!e Ara Army and among irregulars, t!at momentary pause for t!oug!t transmission, or digestion) for t!e nerves to resolve t!e relaying private will into a*tive *onse@uen*e# 8n t!e *ontrary, ea*! regular Army sedulously rooted out t!is signifi*ant pause from its *ompanies on parade# (!e drill-instru*tors tried to ma&e o edien*e an instin*t, a mental refle3, following as instantly on t!e *ommand as t!oug! t!e motor power of t!e individual wills !ad een invested toget!er in t!e system# (!is was well, so far as it in*reased @ui*&ness- ut it made no provision for *asualties, eyond t!e wea& assumption t!at ea*! su ordinate !ad !is will-motor not atrop!ied, ut reserved in perfe*t order, ready at t!e instant to ta&e over !is late superior?s offi*e) t!e effi*ien*y of dire*tion passing smoot!ly down t!e great !ierar*!y till vested in t!e senior of t!e two surviving privates# .t !ad t!e furt!er wea&ness, seeing men?s >ealousy, of putting power in t!e !ands of ar itrary old age, wit! its petulant a*tivity- additionally *orrupted y long !a it of *ontrol, an indulgen*e w!i*! ruined its vi*tim, y *ausing t!e deat! of !is su >un*tive mood# Also, it was an idiosyn*rasy wit! me to distrust instin*t, w!i*! !ad its roots in our animality# "eason seemed to give men somet!ing deli erately more pre*ious t!an fear or pain- and t!is made me dis*ount t!e value of pea*e smartness as a war-edu*ation# :or wit! war a su tle *!ange !appened to t!e soldier# Dis*ipline was modified, supported, even swallowed y an eagerness of t!e man to fig!t# (!is eagerness it was w!i*! roug!t vi*tory in t!e moral sense, and often in t!e p!ysi*al sense, of t!e *om at# 'ar was made up of *rises of intense effort# :or psy*!ologi*al reasons *ommanders wis!ed for t!e least duration of t!is ma3imum effortnot e*ause t!e men would not try to give it--usually t!ey would go on till t!ey dropped-- ut e*ause ea*! su*! effort wea&ened t!eir remaining for*e# 4agerness of t!e &ind was nervous, and, w!en present in !ig! power, it tore apart fles! and spirit# (o rouse t!e e3*itement of war for t!e *reation of a military spirit in pea*e-time would e dangerous, li&e t!e too-early doping of an at!lete# Conse@uently dis*ipline, wit! its *on*omitant ?smartness? Ba

suspe*t word implying superfi*ial restraint and painC was invented to ta&e its pla*e# (!e Ara Army, orn and roug!t up in t!e fig!ting line, !ad never &nown a pea*e-!a it, and was not fa*ed wit! pro lems of maintenan*e till armisti*e-time- t!en it failed signally#

&()PTE" .&III
After /oy*e and Dawnay !ad gone, . rode off from A a el 2issan, wit! Mir+u&# 8ur starting day promised to *rown t!e spring-fres!ness of t!is lofty ta leland# A wee& efore t!ere !ad een a furious li++ard, and some of t!e w!iteness of t!e snow seemed to !ave passed into t!e lig!t# (!e ground was vivid wit! new grass) and t!e sunlig!t, w!i*! slanted a*ross us, pale li&e straw, mellowed t!e fluttering wind# 'it! us >ourneyed two t!ousand Sir!an *amels, *arrying our ammunition and food# :or t!e *onvoy?s sa&e we mar*!ed easily, to rea*! t!e railway after dar&# A few of us rode forward, to sear*! t!e strangely alone# 8ur armoured-*ar men were persons to me, from t!eir fewness and our long *ompanions!ip) and also in t!eir selves, for t!ese mont!s uns!ieldedly open to t!e flaming sun and ullying wind !ad worn and refined t!em into individuals# .n su*! a mo of una**ustomed soldiery, %ritis!, Australian and .ndian, t!ey went as strange and timid as myself) distinguis!ed also y grime, for wit! wee&s of wearing t!eir *lot!es !ad een moulded to t!em y sweat and use and !ad e*ome rat!er integuments t!an wrappings# %ut t!ese ot!ers were really soldiers, a novelty after two years? irregularity# And it *ame upon me fres!ly !ow t!e se*ret of uniform was to ma&e a *rowd solid, dignified, impersonal- to give it t!e singleness and tautness of an upstanding man# (!is deat!?s livery w!i*! walled its earers from ordinary life, was sign t!at t!ey !ad sold t!eir wills and odies to t!e State- and *ontra*ted t!emselves into a servi*e not t!e less a >e*t for t!at its eginning was voluntary# Some of t!em !ad o eyed t!e instin*t of lawlessness- some were !ungry- ot!ers t!irsted for glamour, for t!e supposed *olour of a military life- ut, of t!em all, t!ose only re*eived satisfa*tion w!o !ad soug!t to degrade t!emselves, for to t!e pea*e-eye t!ey were elow !umanity# 8nly women wit! a le*! were allured y t!ose witnessing *lot!es) t!e soldiers? pay, not sustenan*e li&e a la ourer?s, ut po*&et-money, seemed most profita ly spent w!en it let t!em drin& sometimes and forget# Convi*ts !ad violen*e put upon t!em# Slaves mig!t e free, if t!ey *ould, in intention# %ut t!e soldier assigned !is owner t!e twenty-four !ours? use of !is ody) and sole *ondu*t of !is mind and passions# A *onvi*t !ad li*en*e to !ate t!e rule w!i*! *onfined !im, and all !umanity outside, if !e were greedy in !ate- ut t!e sul&ing soldier was a ad soldier) indeed, no soldier# $is affe*tions must e !ired pie*es on t!e *!ess- oard of t!e &ing# (!e strange power of war w!i*! made us all as a duty so demean ourselvesA (!ese Australians, s!ouldering me in un*eremonious !orseplay, !ad put off !alf *ivili+ation wit! t!eir *ivil *lot!es# (!ey were dominant to-nig!t, too sure of t!emselves to e *areful- and yet---as t!ey la+ily swaggered t!ose @ui*& odies, all *urves wit! never a straig!t line, ut wit! old and disillusioned eyes- and yet---. felt t!em t!in-tempered, !ollow, instin*tive) always going to do great t!ings) wit! t!e dis@uieting suppleness of lades !alf-drawn from t!e s*a ard# Dis@uieting- not dreadful# (!e 4nglis! fellows were not instin*tive, nor negligent li&e t!e line y daylig!t, and e sure of pea*e during t!e !ours t!ese s*attered num ers would *onsume in *rossing# My odyguard was wit! me, and Mir+u& !ad !is Ageyl, wit! two famous ra*ing *amels# (!e gaiety of t!e air and season *aug!t t!em# Soon t!ey were *!allenging to ra*es, t!reatening one anot!er, or s&irmis!ing# My imperfe*t *amel-riding Band my moodC for ade me to t!rust among t!e lads, w!o swung more to t!e nort!, w!ile . wor&ed on, ridding my mind of t!e lees of *amp-*lamour and intrigue# (!e a stra*tion of t!e desert lands*ape *leansed me, and rendered my mind va*ant wit! its superfluous greatness- a greatness a*!ieved not y t!e addition of t!oug!t to its emptiness, ut y its su tra*tion# .n t!e wea&ness of eart!?s life was mirrored t!e strengt! of !eaven, so vast, so eautiful, so strong#

0ear sunset t!e line e*ame visi le, *urving spa*iously a*ross t!e dis*losed land, among low tufts of grass and us!es# Seeing everyt!ing was pea*eful . pus!ed on, meaning to !alt eyond and wat*! t!e ot!ers over# (!ere was always a little t!rill in tou*!ing t!e rails w!i*! were t!e target of so many of our efforts# As . rode up t!e an& my *amel?s feet s*ram led in t!e loose allast, and out of t!e long s!adow of a *ulvert to my left, w!ere, no dou t, !e !ad slept all day, rose a (ur&is! soldier# $e glan*ed wildly at me and at t!e pistol in my !and, and t!en wit! sadness at !is rifle against t!e a utment, yards eyond# $e was a young man) stout, ut sul&y-loo&ing# . stared at !im, and said, softly, ?God is mer*iful?# $e &new t!e sound and sense of t!e Ara i* p!rase, and raised !is eyes li&e a flas! to mine, w!ile !is !eavy sleep-ridden fa*e egan slowly to *!ange into in*redulous >oy# $owever, !e said not a word# . pressed my *amel?s !airy s!oulder wit! my foot, s!e pi*&ed !er deli*ate stride a*ross t!e metals and down t!e furt!er slope, and t!e little (ur& was man enoug! not to s!oot me in t!e a*&, as . rode away, feeling warm towards !im, as ever towards a life one !as saved# At a safe distan*e . glan*ed a*&# $e put t!um to nose, and twin&led !is fingers at me# 'e lit a *offee-fire as ea*on for t!e rest, and waited till t!eir dar& lines passed y# 0e3t day we mar*!ed to 'adi el /in+) to flood-pools, s!allow eyes of water set in wrin&les of t!e *lay, t!eir rims las!ed a out wit! s*ru y stems of rus!wood# (!e water was grey, li&e t!e marly valley ed, ut sweet# (!ere we rested for t!e nig!t, sin*e t!e Gaagi !ad s!ot a ustard, and =enop!on did rig!tly *all its w!ite meat good# '!ile we feasted t!e *amels feasted# %y t!e ounty of spring t!ey were &needeep in su**ulent green-stuff# A fourt! easy mar*! too& us to t!e Atara, our goal, w!ere our allies, Mifle!, :a!ad and Ad!u , were *amped# :a!ad was still stri*&en, ut Mifle!, wit! !oneyed words, *ame out to wel*ome us, !is fa*e eaten up y greed, and !is voi*e w!ee+y wit! it# 8ur plan, t!an&s to Allen y?s lion-s!are, promised simply# 'e would, w!en ready, *ross t!e line to (!emed, t!e main %eni Sa&!r watering# (!en*e under *over of a s*reen of t!eir *avalry we would move to Made a, and fit it as our !ead@uarters, w!ile Allen y put t!e /eri*!o-Salt road in *ondition# 'e oug!t to lin& up wit! t!e %ritis! *omforta ly wit!out firing a s!ot# Meanw!ile we !ad only to wait in t!e Atatir, w!i*! to our >oy were really green, wit! every !ollow a standing pool, and t!e valley eds of tall grass prin&ed wit! flowers# (!e *!al&y ridges, sterile wit! salt, framed t!e water-*!annels delig!tfully# :rom t!eir tallest point we *ould loo& nort! and sout!, and see !ow t!e rain, running down, !ad painted t!e valleys a*ross t!e w!ite in road stripes of green, s!arp and firm li&e rus!-stro&es# 4veryt!ing was growing, and daily t!e pi*ture was fuller and rig!ter till t!e desert e*ame li&e a ran& water-meadow# ,layful pa*&s of winds *ame *rossing and tum ling over one anot!er, t!eir wide, rief gusts surging t!roug! t!e grass, to lay it momentarily in swat!es of dar& and lig!t satin, li&e young *orn after t!e roller# 8n t!e !ill we sat and s!ivered efore t!ese sweeping s!adows, e3pe*ting a !eavy last--and t!ere would *ome into our fa*es a warm and perfumed reat!, very gentle, w!i*! passed away e!ind us as a silver-grey lig!t down t!e plain of green# 8ur fastidious *amels gra+ed an !our or so, and t!en lay down to digest, ringing up stoma*!load after stoma*!-load of utter-smelling green *ud, and *!ewing weig!tily# At last news *ame t!at t!e 4nglis! !ad ta&en Amman# .n !alf an !our we were ma&ing for (!emed, a*ross t!e deserted line# 2ater messages told us t!at t!e 4nglis! were falling a*&, and t!oug! we !ad forewarned t!e Ara s of it, yet t!ey were trou led# A furt!er messenger reported !ow t!e 4nglis! !ad >ust fled from Salt# (!is was plainly *ontrary to Allen y?s intention, and . swore straig!t out t!at it was not true# A man galloped in to say t!at t!e 4nglis! !ad ro&en only a few rails sout! of Amman, after two days of vain assaults against t!e town# . grew seriously distur ed in t!e *onfli*t of rumour, and sent Ad!u , w!o mig!t e trusted not to lose !is !ead, to Salt wit! a letter for C!etwode or S!ea, as&ing for a note on t!e real situation# :or t!e intervening !ours we tramped restlessly over t!e fields of young arley, our minds wor&ing out plan after plan wit! feveris! a*tivity# <ery late at nig!t Ad!u ?s ra*ing !orse-!ooves e*!oed a*ross t!e valley and !e *ame in to tell us t!at

/emal ,as!a was now in Salt, vi*torious, !anging t!ose lo*al Ara s w!o !ad wel*omed t!e 4nglis!# (!e (ur&s were still *!asing Allen y far down t!e /ordan <alley# .t was t!oug!t t!at /erusalem would e re*overed# . &new enoug! of my *ountrymen to re>e*t t!at possi ility) ut *learly t!ings were very wrong# 'e slipped off, emused, to t!e Atatir again# (!is reverse, eing unawares, !urt me t!e more# Allen y?s plan !ad seemed modest, and t!at we s!ould so fall down efore t!e Ara s was deplora le# (!ey !ad never trusted us to do t!e great t!ings w!i*! . foretold) and now t!eir independent t!oug!ts set out to en>oy t!e springtide !ere# (!ey were a etted y some gipsy families from t!e nort! wit! t!e materials of t!eir tin&ering trade on don&eys# (!e Ge n tri esmen greeted t!em wit! a !umour . little understood--till . saw t!at, eside t!eir legitimate profits of !andi*raft, t!e women were open to ot!er advan*es# ,arti*ularly t!ey were easy to t!e Ageyl) and for a w!ile t!ey prospered e3*eedingly, sin*e our men were eager and very generous# . also made use of t!em# .t seemed a pity to e at a loose end so near to Amman, and not ot!er to loo& at it# So :arra> and . !ired t!ree of t!e merry little women, wrapped ourselves up li&e t!em, and strolled t!roug! t!e village# (!e visit was su**essful, t!oug! my final determination was t!at t!e pla*e s!ould e left alone# 'e !ad one evil moment, y t!e ridge, w!en we were returning# Some (ur&is! soldiers *rossed our party , and ta&ing us all five for w!at we loo&ed, grew mu*! too friendly# 'e s!owed a *oyness, and good turn of speed for gipsy women, and es*aped inta*t# :or t!e future . de*ided to resume my !a it of wearing ordinary %ritis! soldiers? rig in enemy *amps# .t was too ra+en to e suspe*t# After t!is . determined to order t!e .ndians from A+ra& a*& to :eisal, and to return myself# 'e started on one of t!ose *lean dawns w!i*! wo&e up t!e senses wit! t!e sun, w!ile t!e intelle*t, tired after t!e t!in&ing of t!e nig!t, was yet a ed# :or an !our or two on su*! a morning t!e sounds, s*ents and *olours of t!e world stru*& man individually and dire*tly, not filtered t!roug! or made typi*al y t!oug!t) t!ey seemed to e3ist suffi*iently y t!emselves, and t!e la*& of design and of *arefulness in *reation no longer irritated# 'e mar*!ed sout!ward along t!e railway, e3pe*ting to *ross t!e slower-moving .ndians from A+ra&) our little party on pri+e *amels swooping from one point of vantage to anot!er, on t!e loo&-out# (!e still day en*ouraged us to speed over all t!e flint-strewn ridges, ignoring t!e multitude of desert pat!s w!i*! led only to t!e a andoned *amps of last year, or of t!e last t!ousand or ten t!ousand years- for a road, on*e trodden into su*! flint and limestone, mar&ed t!e fa*e of t!e desert for so long as t!e desert lasted# %y :araifra we saw a little patrol of eig!t (ur&s mar*!ing up t!e line# My men, fres! after t!e !oliday in t!e Atatir, egged me to ride on t!em# . t!oug!t it too trifling, ut w!en t!ey *!afed, agreed# (!e younger ones instantly rus!ed forward at a gallop# . ordered t!e rest a*ross t!e line, to drive t!e enemy away from t!eir s!elter e!ind a *ulvert# (!e Gaagi, a !undred yards to my rig!t, seeing w!at was wanted, swerved aside at on*e# Mo!sin followed !im a moment later, wit! !is se*tion) w!ilst A dulla and . pus!ed forward steadily on our side, to ta&e t!e enemy on ot! flan&s toget!er# :arra>, riding in front of everyone, would not listen to our *ries nor noti*e t!e warning s!ots fired past !is !ead# $e loo&ed round at our manoeuvre, ut !imself *ontinued to *anter madly towards t!e ridge, w!i*! !e rea*!ed efore t!e Gaagi and !is party !ad *rossed t!e line# (!e (ur&s !eld t!eir fire, and we supposed t!em gone down t!e furt!er side of t!e em an&ment into safety) ut as :arra> drew rein eneat! t!e ar*!way, t!ere was a s!ot, and !e seemed to fall or leap out of t!e saddle, and disappeared# A w!ile after, t!e Gaagi got into position on t!e an& and !is party fired twenty or t!irty ragged s!ots, as t!oug! t!e enemy was still t!ere# . was very an3ious a out :arra># $is *amel stood un!armed y t!e ridge, alone# $e mig!t e !it, or mig!t e following t!e enemy# . *ould not elieve t!at !e !ad deli erately ridden up to t!em in t!e open and !alted) yet it loo&ed li&e it# . sent :e!eyd to t!e Gaagi and told !im to rus! along t!e far side as soon as possi le, w!ilst we went at a fast trot straig!t in to t!e ridge# 'e rea*!ed it toget!er, and found t!ere one dead (ur&, and :arra> terri ly wounded t!roug! t!e ody,

lying y t!e ar*! >ust as !e !ad fallen from !is *amel# $e loo&ed un*ons*ious) ut, w!en we dismounted, greeted us, and t!en fell silent, sun&en in t!at loneliness w!i*! *ame to !urt men w!o elieved deat! near# 'e tore !is *lot!es away and loo&ed uselessly at t!e wound# (!e ullet !ad smas!ed rig!t t!roug! !im, and !is spine seemed in>ured# (!e Ara s said at on*e t!at !e !ad only a few !ours to live# 'e tried to move !im, for !e was !elpless, t!oug! !e s!owed no pain# 'e tried to stop t!e wide, slow leeding, w!i*! made poppy-splas!es in t!e grass) ut it seemed impossi le, and after a w!ile !e told us to let !im alone, as !e was dying, and !appy to die, sin*e !e !ad no *are of Me# .ndeed, for long !e !ad een so, and men very tired and sorry often fell in love wit! deat!, wit! t!at triump!al wea&ness *oming !ome after strengt! !as een van@uis!ed in a last attle# '!ile we fussed a out !im A d el 2atif s!outed an alarm# $e *ould see a out fifty (ur&s wor&ing up t!e line towards us, and soon after a motor trolley was !eard *oming from t!e nort!# 'e were only si3teen men, and !ad an impossi le position# . said we must retire at on*e, *arrying :arra> wit! us# (!ey tried to lift !im, first in !is *loa&, afterwards in a lan&et) ut *ons*iousness was *oming a*&, and !e s*reamed so pitifully t!at we !ad not t!e !eart to !urt !im more# 'e *ould not leave !im w!ere !e was, to t!e (ur&s, e*ause we !ad seen t!em urn alive our !apless wounded# :or t!is reason we were all agreed, efore a*tion, to finis! off one anot!er, if adly !urtut . !ad never reali+ed t!at it mig!t fall to me to &ill :arra># . &nelt down eside him, !olding my pistol near t!e ground y !is !ead, so t!at !e s!ould not see my purpose) ut !e must !ave guessed it, for !e opened !is eyes, and *lut*!ed me wit! !is !ars!, s*aly !and, t!e tiny !and of t!ese unripe 0e>d fellows# . waited a moment, and !e said, Daud will e angry wit! you?, t!e old smile *oming a*& so strangely to t!is grey s!rin&ing fa*e# . replied, ?salute !im from me?# $e returned t!e formal answer, ?God will give you pea*e?, and at last wearily *losed !is eyes# (!e (ur&is! trolley was now very *lose, swaying down t!e line towards us li&e a dung- eetle- and its ma*!ine-gun ullets stung t!e air a out our !eads as we fled a*& into t!e ridges# Mo!sin led :arra>?s *amel, on w!i*! were !is s!eeps&in and trappings, still wit! t!e s!ape of !is ody in t!em, >ust as !e !ad fallen y t!e ridge# 0ear dar& we !alted) and t!e Gaagi *ame w!ispering to me t!at all were wrangling as to w!o s!ould ride t!e splendid animal ne3t day# $e wanted !er for !imself) ut . was itter t!at t!ese perfe*ted dead !ad again ro ed my poverty- and to *!eapen t!e great loss wit! a little one . s!ot t!e poor east wit! my se*ond ullet# (!en t!e sun set on us# (!roug! t!e reat!less noon in t!e valleys of ;era& t!e prisoned air !ad rooded stagnantly wit!out relief, w!ile t!e !eat su*&ed t!e perfume from t!e flowers# 'it! dar&ness t!e world moved on*e more, and a reat! from t!e west *rept out over t!e desert# 'e were miles from t!e grass and flowers, ut suddenly we felt t!em all a out us, as waves of t!is s*ented air drew past us wit! a sti*&y sweetness# $owever, @ui*&ly it faded, and t!e nig!t-wind, damp and w!olesome, followed# A dulla roug!t me supper, ri*e and *amel-meat B:arra>?s *amelC# Afterwards we slept#

&()PTE" .&I+
.n t!e morning, near 'adi el /in+, we met t!e .ndians, !alted y a solitary tree# .t was li&e old times, li&e our gentle and memora le ride to t!e ridges t!e year efore, to e going again a*ross *ountry wit! $assan S!a!, !earing t!e <i*&ers guns still *lin&ing in t!e *arriers, and !elping t!e troopers retie t!eir slipping loads, or saddles# (!ey seemed >ust as un!andy wit! *amels as at first) so not till dus& did we *ross t!e railway # (!ere . left t!e .ndians, e*ause . felt restless, and movement fast in t!e nig!t mig!t *ure my mind# So we pressed forward all t!e *!ill dar&ness, riding for 8dro!# '!en we topped its rise we noti*ed gleams of fire to our left- rig!t flas!es went up *onstantly, it mig!t e from a out /erdun# 'e drew rein and !eard t!e low oom of e3plosions- a steady flame appeared, grew greater and divided into

two# ,er!aps t!e station was urning# 'e rode @ui*&, to as& Mastur# $owever, !is pla*e was deserted, wit! only a >a*&al on t!e old *amping-ground# . de*ided to pus! a!ead to :eisal# 'e trotted our fastest, as t!e sun grew !ig!er in t!e !eavens# (!e road was estial wit! lo*usts--t!oug! from a little distan*e t!ey loo&ed eautiful, silvering t!e air wit! t!e s!immer of t!eir wings# Summer !ad *ome upon us unawares) my sevent! *onse*utive summer in t!is 4ast# As we approa*!ed, we !eard firing in front, on Semna, t!e *res*ent mound w!i*! *overed Maan# ,arties of troops wal&ed gently up its fa*e to !alt elow t!e *rest# 4vidently we !ad ta&en t!e Semna, so we rode towards t!e new position# 8n t!e flat, t!is side of it, we met a *amel wit! litters# (!e man leading it said, ?Maulud ,as!a?, pointing to !is load# . ran up, *rying, ?.s Maulud !itJ? for !e was one of t!e est offi*ers in t!e army, a man also most !onest towards us) not, indeed, t!at admiration *ould any!ow !ave een refused so sturdy and un*ompromising a patriot# (!e old man replied out of !is litter in a wea& voi*e, saying, ?1es, indeed, 2urens %ey, . am !urt- ut, t!an&s e to God, it is not!ing# 'e !ave ta&en Semna?# . replied t!at . was going t!ere# Maulud *raned !imself feveris!ly over t!e edge of t!e litter, !ardly a le to see or spea& B!is t!ig!- one was splintered a ove t!e &neeC, s!owing me point after point, for organi+ing t!e !ill-side defensively# 'e arrived as t!e (ur&s were eginning to t!row !alf-!earted s!ells at it# 0uri Said was *ommanding in Maulud?s pla*e# $e stood *oolly on t!e !ill-top# Most men tal&ed faster under fire, and a*ted a etraying ease and >oviality# 0uri grew *almer, and Geid ored# . as&ed w!ere /aafar was# 0uri said t!at at midnig!t !e was due to !ave atta*&ed /erdun# . told !im of t!e nig!t-flares, w!i*! must !ave mar&ed !is su**ess# '!ile we were glad toget!er !is messengers arrived reporting prisoners and ma*!ine-guns) also t!e station and t!ree t!ousand rails destroyed# So splendid an effort would settle t!e nort!ern line for wee&s# (!en 0uri told me t!at t!e pre*eding dawn !e !ad rus!ed G!adir el $a> station and wre*&ed it, wit! five ridges and a t!ousand rails# So t!e sout!ern line was also settled# 2ate in t!e afternoon it grew deadly @uiet# %ot! sides stopped t!eir aimless s!elling# (!ey said t!at :eisal !ad moved to 9!eida# 'e *rossed t!e little flooded stream, y a temporary !ospital w!ere Maulud lay# Ma!mud, t!e red- earded, defiant do*tor, t!oug!t t!at !e would re*over wit!out amputation# :eisal was on t!e !illtop, on t!e very edge, la*& against t!e sun, w!ose lig!t t!rew a @ueer !a+e a out !is slender figure, and suffused !is !ead wit! gold, t!roug! t!e floss-sil& of !is !ead-*lot!# . made my *amel &neel# :eisal stret*!ed out !is !ands *rying, ,lease God, goodJ? . replied, ?(!e praise and t!e vi*tory e to God?# And !e swept me into !is tent t!at we mig!t e3*!ange t!e news# :eisal !ad !eard from Dawnay more t!an . &new of t!e %ritis! failure efore Amman) of t!e ad weat!er and *onfusion, and !ow Allen y !ad telep!oned to S!ea, and made one of !is lig!tning de*isions to *ut t!e loss) a wise de*ision, t!oug! it !urt us sorely# /oy*e was in !ospital, ut mending well) and Dawnay lay ready at Guweira to start for Mudowwara wit! all t!e *ars# :eisal as&ed me a out Semna and /aafar, and . told !im w!at . &new, and 0uri?s opinion, and t!e prospe*t# 0uri !ad *omplained t!at t!e A u (ayi !ad done not!ing for !im all day# Auda denied it) and . re*alled t!e story of our first ta&ing t!e plateau, and t!e gi e y w!i*! . !ad s!amed t!em into t!e *!arge at A a el 2issan# (!e tale was new to :eisal# .ts ra&ing-up !urt old Auda deeply# $e swore ve!emently t!at !e !ad done !is est to-day, only *onditions were not favoura le for tri al wor&- and, w!en . wit!stood !im furt!er, !e went out of t!e tent, very itter# Maynard and . spent t!e ne3t days wat*!ing operations# (!e A u (ayi *aptured two outposts east of t!e station, w!ile Sale! i n S!efia too& a reastwor& wit! a ma*!ine-gun and twenty prisoners# (!ese gains gave us li erty of movement round Maan) and on t!e t!ird day /aafar massed !is artillery on t!e sout!ern ridge, w!ile 0uri Said led a storming party into t!e s!eds of t!e railway station# As !e rea*!ed t!eir *over t!e :ren*! guns *eased fire# 'e were wandering in a :ord *ar, trying to &eep up

wit! t!e su**essive advan*es, w!en 0uri, perfe*tly dressed and gloved, smo&ing !i s riar pipe, met us and sent us a*& to Captain ,isani, artillery *ommander, wit! an urgent appeal for support# 'e found ,isani wringing !is !ands in despair, every round e3pended# $e said !e !ad implored 0uri not to atta*& at t!is moment of !is penury# (!ere was not!ing to do, ut see our men volleyed out of t!e railway station again# (!e road was littered wit! *rumpled &!a&i figures, and t!e eyes of t!e wounded, gone ri*! wit! pain, stared a**usingly at us# (!e *ontrol !ad gone from t!eir ro&en odies and t!eir torn fles! s!oo& t!em !elplessly# 'e *ould see everyt!ing and t!in& dispassionately, ut it was soundless- our !earing !ad een ta&en away y t!e &nowledge t!at we !ad failed# Afterwards we understood t!at we !ad never e3pe*ted su*! e3*ellent spirit from our infantry, w!o foug!t *!eerfully under ma*!ine-gun fire, and made *lever use of ground# So little leading was re@uired t!at only t!ree offi*ers were lost# Maan s!owed us t!at t!e Ara s were good enoug! wit!out %ritis! stiffening# (!is made us more free to plan- so t!e failure was not unredeemed# 8n t!e morning of April t!e eig!teent!, /aafar wisely de*ided t!at !e *ould not afford more loss, and drew a*& to t!e Semna positions w!ile t!e troops rested# %eing an old *ollege friend of t!e (ur&is! Commandant, !e sent !im a w!ite-flagged letter, inviting surrender# (!e reply said t!at t!ey would love it, ut !ad orders to !old out to t!e last *artridge# /aafar offered a respite, in w!i*! t!ey *ould fire off t!eir reserves- ut t!e (ur&s !esitated till /emal ,as!a was a le to *olle*t troops from Amman, reo**upy /erdun, and pass a pa*&-*onvoy of food and ammunition into t!e eleaguered town# (!e railway remained ro&en for wee&s# :ort!wit! . too& *ar to >oin Dawnay# . was uneasy at a regular fig!ting !is first guerilla attle wit! t!at most involved and intri*ate weapon, t!e armoured *ar# Also Dawnay was no Ara ist, and neit!er ,ea&e, !is *amel-e3pert, nor Mars!all, !is do*tor, was fluent# $is troops were mi3ed, %ritis!, 4gyptian and %edouin# (!e last two were antipat!eti*# So . drove into !is *amp a ove (ell S!a!m after midnig!t, and offered myself, deli*ately, as an interpreter# :ortunately !e re*eived me well, and too& me round !is lines# A wonderful s!ow# (!e *ars were par&ed geometri*ally !ere) armoured *ars t!ere) sentries and pi*&ets were out, wit! ma*!ine-guns ready# 4ven t!e Ara s were in a ta*ti*al pla*e e!ind a !ill, in support, ut out of sig!t and !earingy some magi* S!erif $a+aa and !imself !ad &ept t!em w!ere t!ey were put# My tongue *oiled into my *!ee& wit! t!e wis! to say t!at t!e only t!ing la*&ing was an enemy# $is *onversation as !e unfolded !is plan deepened my admiration to unplum ed dept!s# $e !ad prepared operation orders) ort!odo3-sounding t!ings wit! +ero times and a se@uen*e of movements# 4a*! unit !ad its appointed duty# 'e would atta*& t!e ?plain post? at dawn Barmoured *arsC from t!e vantage of t!e !illo*& on w!i*! /oy*e and myself !ad sat and laug!ed ruefully t!e last a ortive time# (!e *ars, wit! *losed *ut-out, would ?ta&e station? efore daylig!t, and *arry t!e tren*!es y surprise# (enders 1 and K would t!en demolis! ridges A and % on t!e operations? plan Bs*ale 1M250,000C at +ero 1#K0 !ours w!ile t!e *ars moved to "o*& ,ost, and wit! t!e support of $a+aa and t!e Ara s rus!ed it B+ero 2#15C# $orn y and t!e e3plosives, in (al ots 0o#, I05K1 and I1227, would move after t!em, and demolis! ridges D, 4 and :, w!ile t!e for*e lun*!ed# After lun*!, w!en t!e low sun permitted sig!t t!roug! t!e mirage, at +ero 6 !ours to e e3a*t, t!e united mass would atta*& Sout! ,ost) t!e 4gyptians from t!e 4ast, t!e Ara s from t!e 0ort!, *overed y long range ma*!ine-gun fire from t!e *ars, and y %rodie?s ten-pounder guns, sited on 8 servation $ill# (!e post would fall and t!e for*e transport itself to t!e station of (ell S!a!m, w!i*! would e s!elled y %rodie from t!e 0ort!-'est, om ed y aeroplanes flying from t!e mud-flats of "um Bat +ero 10 !oursC and approa*!ed y armoured *ars from t!e west# (!e Ara s would follow t!e *ars, w!ile ,ea&e wit! !is Camel Corps des*ended from Sout! ,ost# (!e station will e ta&en at +ero 11#K0? said t!e s*!eme, rea&ing into !umour at t!e last# %ut t!ere it failed, for t!e (ur&s, ignorantly and in !aste, surrendered ten minutes too soon, and made t!e only lot on a loodless day#

.n a li@uid voi*e . in@uired if $a+aa understood# . was informed t!at as !e !ad no wat*! to syn*!roni+e B y t!e way, would . please put mine rig!t nowJC !e would ma&e !is first move w!en t!e *ars turned nort!ward and time !is later a*tions y e3press order# . *rept away and !id myself for an !our?s sleep# At dawn we saw t!e *ars roll silently on top of t!e sleeping sandy tren*!es, and t!e astonis!ed (ur&s wal& out wit! t!eir !ands up# .t was li&e pi*&ing a ripe pea*!# $orn y das!ed up in !is two "olls tenders, put a !undredweig!t of gun-*otton under ridge A and lew it up *onvin*ingly# (!e roar nearly lifted Dawnay and myself out of our t!ird tender, in w!i*! we sat grandly overseeing all- and we ran in, to s!ow $orn y t!e *!eaper way of t!e drainage !oles as mine-*!am ers# Su se@uent ridges *ame down for ten sla s apie*e# '!ile we were at ridge % t!e *ars *on*entrated t!eir ma*!ine-guns on t!e parapet of $o*& ,ost?, a *ir*le of t!i*& stone walls Bvery visi le from t!eir long early s!adowsC on a &noll too steep for w!eels# $a+aa was ready, willing and e3*ited, and t!e (ur&s so frig!tened y t!e splas!ing and splattering of t!e four ma*!ine-guns t!at t!e Ara s too& t!em almost in t!eir stride# (!at was pea*! t!e se*ond# (!en it was interval for t!e ot!ers, ut a*tivity for $orn y, and for myself, now assistant-engineer# 'e ran down t!e line in our "olls-"oy*es, *arrying two tons of gun-*otton) ridges and rails roared up w!erever fan*y di*tated# (!e *rews of t!e *ars *overed us) and sometimes *overed t!emselves, under t!eir *ars, w!en fragments *ame sailing musi*ally t!roug! t!e smo&y air# 8ne twenty-pound flint *langed plum on a turret-!ead and made a !armless dint# At intervals every ody too& p!otograp!s of t!e !appy ursts# .t was fig!ting de lu3e, and demolition de lu3e- we en>oyed ourselves# After t!e peripateti* lun*!-!our we went off to see t!e fall of ?sout! post?# .t fell to its minute, ut not properly# $a+aa and !is Amran were too wound up to advan*e so erly in alternate rus!es li&e ,ea&e and t!e 4gyptians# .nstead t!ey t!oug!t it was a steeple*!ase, and did a *amel-*!arge up t!e mound over reastwor& and tren*!es# (!e war-weary (ur&s gave it up in disgust# (!en *ame t!e *entral a*t of t!e day, t!e assault upon t!e station# ,ea&e drew down towards it from t!e nort!, moving !is men y repeated e3posure of !imself) !ardly, for t!ey were not fier*e for !onour# %rodie opened on it wit! !is usual ni*ety, w!ile t!e aeroplanes *ir*led round in t!eir *oldlooded way, to drop w!istling om s into its tren*!es# (!e armoured *ars went forward snuffling smo&e, and t!roug! t!is !a+e a file of (ur&s waving w!ite t!ings rose out of t!eir main tren*! in a de>e*ted fas!ion# 'e *ran&ed up our "olls tenders) t!e Ara s leaped on to t!eir *amels) ,ea&e?s now- old men ro&e into a run, and t!e for*e *onverged wildly upon t!e station# 8ur *ar won) and . gained t!e station ell, a dignified pie*e of Damas*us rass-wor&# (!e ne3t man too& t!e ti*&et pun*! and t!e t!ird t!e offi*e stamp, w!ile t!e ewildered (ur&s stared at us, wit! a growing indignation t!at t!eir importan*e s!ould e merely se*ondary# A minute later, wit! a !owl, t!e %eduin were upon t!e maddest looting of t!eir !istory# (wo !undred rifles, eig!ty t!ousand rounds of ammunition, many om s, mu*! food and *lot!ing were in t!e station, and every ody smas!ed and profited# An unlu*&y *amel in*reased t!e *onfusion y firing one of t!e many (ur&is! trip-mines as it entered t!e yard# (!e e3plosion lew it arse over tip, and *aused a pani*# (!ey t!oug!t %rodie was opening up again# .n t!e pause t!e 4gyptian offi*er found an un ro&en store!ouse, and put a guard of soldiers over it, e*ause t!ey were s!ort of food# $a+aa?s wolves, not yet sated, did not re*ogni+e t!e 4gyptians? rig!t to s!are e@ually# S!ooting egan- ut y mediation we o tained t!at t!e 4gyptians pi*& first w!at rations t!ey needed- afterwards t!ere followed a general s*ram le, w!i*! urst t!e store-room walls# (!e profit of S!a!m was so great t!at eig!t out of every ten of t!e Ara s were *ontented wit! it# .n t!e morning only $a+aa and a !andful of men remained wit! us for furt!er operations# Dawnay?s programme said "amle! station) ut !is orders were in*!oate, sin*e t!e position !ad not een e3amined# So we sent down 'ade in !is armoured *ar, wit! a se*ond *ar in support# $e drove on, *autiously, stage y stage, in dead silen*e# At last, wit!out a s!ot fired, !e entered t!e station yard,

*arefully, for fear of t!e mines, w!ose trip and trigger wires diapered t!e ground# (!e station was *losed up# $e put !alf a elt t!roug! t!e door and s!utters, and, getting no reply, slipped out of !is *ar, sear*!ed t!e uilding, and found it empty of men, t!oug! full enoug! of desira le goods to ma&e $a+aa and t!e fait!ful remnant pri+e t!eir virtue aloud# 'e spent t!e day destroying miles more of t!e uno**upied line, till we >udged t!at we !ad done damage to o**upy t!e largest possi le repair party for a fortnig!t# (!e t!ird day was to e Mudowwara, ut we !ad no great !ope or for*e left# (!e Ara s were gone, ,ea&e?s men too little warli&e# $owever, Mudowwara mig!t pani* li&e "amle!, so we slept t!e nig!t y our latest *apture# (!e unwearied Dawnay set out sentries, w!o, emulous of t!eir smart *ommanding offi*er, did a %u*&ing!am ,ala*e stunt up and down eside our would- e sleeping !eads, till . got up, and instru*ted t!em in t!e arts of desert-wat*!ing# .n t!e morning we set off to loo& at Mudowwara, driving li&e &ings splendidly in our roaring *ars over t!e smoot! plains of sand and flint, wit! t!e low sun pale e!ind us in t!e east# (!e lig!t !id us till we were *lose in and saw t!at a long train stood in t!e station# "einfor*ement or eva*uationJ A moment afterwards t!ey let fly at us wit! four guns, of w!i*! two were a*tive and a**urate little Austrian mountain !owit+ers# At seven t!ousand yards t!ey did admira le s!ooting, w!ile we made off in undignified !aste to some distant !ollows# (!en*e we made a wide *ir*uit to w!ere, wit! Gaal, we !ad mined our first train# 'e lew up t!e long ridge under w!i*! t!e (ur&is! patrol !ad slept out t!at tense midday# Afterwards we returned to "amle!, and persevered in destroying line and ridges, to ma&e our rea& permanent, a demolition too serious for :a&!ri ever to restore- w!ile :eisal sent Mo!ammed el D!eilan against t!e yet inta*t stations etween our rea& and Maan# Dawnay >oined up wit! t!em, geograp!i*ally, elow t!e es*arpment, a day later) and so t!is eig!ty miles from Maan to Mudowwara, wit! its seven stations, fell w!olly into our !ands# (!e a*tive defen*e of Medina ended wit! t!is operation# A new offi*er, 1oung, *ame from Mesopotamia to reinfor*e our staff# $e was a regular of e3*eptional @uality, wit! long and wide e3perien*e of war, and perfe*t fluen*y in Ara i*# $is intended role was to dou le mine, wit! t!e tri es, t!at our a*tivity against t!e enemy mig!t e roader, and etter dire*ted# (o let !im play himself in to our fres! *onditions, . !anded !im over t!e possi ility of *om ining Geid, 0asir and Mir+u& into an eig!ty-mile long interruption of t!e railway from Maan nort!ward, w!ile . went down to A&a a and too& s!ip for Sue+, to dis*uss futures wit! Allen y#

&()PTE" .&+
Dawnay met me, and we tal&ed over our rief efore going up to Allen y?s *amp# (!ere General %ols smiled !appily at us, and said, 'ell, we?re in Salt all rig!t?# (o our ama+ed stares !e went on t!at t!e *!iefs of t!e %eni Sa&!r !ad *ome into /eri*!o one morning, to offer t!e immediate *o-operation of t!eir twenty t!ousand tri esmen at (!emed) and in !is at! ne3t day !e !ad t!oug!t out a s*!eme, and fi3ed it all rig!t# . as&ed w!o t!e *!ief of t!e %eni Sa&!r was, and !e said (a!ad?- triump!ing in !is effi*ient inroad into w!at !ad een my provin*e# .t sounded madder and madder# . &new t!at :a!ad *ould not raise four !undred men) and, t!at at t!e moment t!ere was not a tent on (!emed- t!ey !ad moved sout!, to 1oung# 'e !urried to t!e offi*e for t!e real story, and learned t!at it was, unfortunately, as %ols !ad said# (!e %ritis! *avalry !ad gone impromptu up t!e !ills of Moa on some airy promise of t!e Ge n s!ei&!s) greedy fellows w!o !ad ridden into /erusalem only to taste Allen y?s ounty ut !ad t!ere een ta&en at t!eir mout!-value# .n t!is season t!ere was no t!ird partner at G#$#H# Guy Dawnay, rot!er of our gladiator, !e w!o !ad made t!e /erusalem plan, !ad gone to $aig?s staff- %art!olomew, w!o was to wor& out t!e autumn drive upon Damas*us, was still wit! C!etwode# So t!e e3e*utive of Allen y?s wor& in t!ese mont!s

was une@ual to t!e *on*eption# :or, of *ourse, t!is raid mis*arried, w!ile . was still in /erusalem, sola*ing myself against t!e inade@ua*y of %ols wit! Storrs, now t!e ur ane and artful Governor of t!e pla*e# (!e %eni Sa&!r were supine in t!eir tents or away wit! 1oung# General C!auvel, wit!out t!e !elp of one of t!em, saw t!e (ur&s re-open t!e /ordan fords e!ind !is a*& and sei+e t!e road y w!i*! !e !ad advan*ed# 'e es*aped !eavy disaster only e*ause Allen y?s instin*t for a situation s!owed !im !is danger >ust in time# 1et we suffered painfully# (!e *!e*& taug!t t!e %ritis! to e more patient wit! :eisal?s diffi*ulties) *onvin*ed t!e (ur&s t!at t!e Amman se*tor was t!eir danger point) and made t!e %eni Sa&!r feel t!at t!e 4nglis! were past understanding- not great fig!ting men, per!aps, ut ready on t!e spur of t!e moment to e odd# So, in part, it redeemed t!e Amman failure y its deli erate repetition of w!at !ad loo&ed a**idental# At t!e same time it ruined t!e !opes w!i*! :eisal !ad entertained of a*ting independently wit! t!e %eni Sa&!r# (!is *autious and very wealt!y tri e as&ed for dependa le allies# 8ur movement, *lean-*ut w!ile alone wit! a simple enemy, was now ogged in its partner?s *ontingen*ies# 'e !ad to ta&e our tune from Allen y, and !e was not !appy# (!e German offensive in :ran*e was stripping !im of troops# $e would retain /erusalem, ut *ould not afford a *asualty, mu*! less an atta*&, for mont!s# (!e 'ar 8ffi*e promised !im .ndian divisions from Mesopotamia, and .ndian drafts# 'it! t!ese !e would re uild !is army on t!e .ndian model) per!aps, after t!e summer, !e mig!t e again in fig!ting trim- ut for t!e moment we must ot! >ust !old on# (!is !e told me on May t!e fift!, t!e date *!osen under t!e Smuts arrangement for t!e !eave nort!ward of t!e w!ole army as prelude to t!e fall of Damas*us and Aleppo# As first p!ase of t!is arrangement we !ad underta&en t!e lia ility of Maan- and Allen y?s pause stu*& us wit! t!is siege of a superior for*e# .n addition, t!e (ur&s from Amman mig!t now !ave leisure to sweep us off A a el 2issan, a*& to A&a a# .n so nasty a situation t!e *ommon !a it of >oint operations--*ursing t!e ot!er partner--weig!ed strongly upon me# $owever, Allen y?s staun*!ness was aiming to relieveus# $e was t!reatening t!e enemy y a vast ridge-!ead a*ross /ordan, as if !e were a out to *ross a t!ird time# So !e would &eep Amman tender# (o strengt!en us on our plateau !e offered w!at te*!ni*al e@uipment we needed# 'e too& t!e opportunity to as& for repeated air-raids on t!e $e>a+ "ailway# General Salmond was *alled in, and proved as generous, in word and deed, as t!e Commander-in-C!ief# (!e "oyal Air :or*e &ept up a dull, trou lesome pressure on Amman from now till t!e fall of (ur&ey# Mu*! of t!e ina*tivity of t!e enemy in our lean season was due to t!e disorgani+ation of t!eir railway y om ing# At tea-time Allen y mentioned t!e .mperial Camel %rigade in Sinai, regretting t!at in t!e new stringen*y !e must a olis! it and use its men as mounted reinfor*ements# . as&ed- ?'!at are you going to do wit! t!eir *amelsJ? $e laug!ed, and said, ?As& ?H?#? 8 ediently, . went a*ross t!e dusty garden, ro&e in upon t!e Huartermaster-General, Sir 'alter Camp ell--very S*ot*!--and repeated my @uestion# $e answered firmly t!at t!ey were earmar&ed as divisional transport for t!e se*ond of t!e new .ndian divisions# . e3plained t!at . wanted two t!ousand of t!em# $is first reply was irrelevant) !is se*ond *onveyed t!at . mig!t go on wanting# . argued, ut !e seemed una le to see my side at all# 8f *ourse, it was of t!e nature of a ?H? to e *ostive# . returned to Allen y and said aloud, efore !is party, t!at t!ere were for disposal two t!ousand, two !undred riding-*amels, and t!irteen !undred aggage *amels# All were provisionally allotted to transport) ut, of *ourse, riding-*amels were riding-*amels# (!e staff w!istled, and loo&ed wise) as t!oug! t!ey, too, dou ted w!et!er riding-*amels *ould *arry aggage# A te*!ni*ality, even a s!am one, mig!t e !elpful# 4very %ritis! offi*er understood animals, as a point of !onour# So . was not astonis!ed w!en Sir 'alter Camp ell was as&ed to dine wit! t!e Commander-in-C!ief t!at nig!t# 'e sat on t!e rig!t !and and on t!e left, and wit! t!e soup Allen y egan to tal& a out *amels# Sir 'alter ro&e out t!at t!e providential dispersing of t!e *amel rigade roug!t t!e transport of t!e --t! Division up to strengt!) a godsend, for t!e 8rient !ad een vainly ransa*&ed for *amels# $e over-

a*ted# Allen y, a reader of Milton, !ad an a*ute sense of style- and t!e line was a wea& one# $e *ared not!ing for strengt!s, t!e fetis! of administrative ran*!es# $e loo&ed at me wit! a twin&le, ?And w!at do you want t!em forJ? . replied !otly, ?(o put a t!ousand men into Deraa any day you please?# $e smiled and s!oo& !is !ead at Sir 'alter Camp ell, saying sadly, ?H, you lose?# (!e goat e*ame giddy and t!e s!eep s!eepis!# .t was an immense, a regal gift) t!e gift of unlimited mo ility# (!e Ara s *ould now win t!eir war w!en and w!ere t!ey li&ed# 0e3t morning . was off to >oin :eisal in !is *ool eyrie at A a el 2issan# 'e dis*ussed !istories, tri es, migration, sentiments, t!e spring rains, pasture, at lengt!# :inally, . remar&ed t!at Allen y !ad given us two t!ousand *amels# :eisal gasped and *aug!t my &nee, saying, ?$owJ? . told !im all t!e story# $e leaped up and &issed me) t!en !e *lapped !is !ands loudly# $e>ris? la*& s!ape appeared at t!e tentdoor# ?$urry,? *ried :eisal, ?*all t!em#? $e>ris as&ed w!om# ?8!, :a!ad, A dulla el :eir, Auda, Motlog, Gaal # # #? ?And not Mir+u&J? @ueried $e>ris mildly# :eisal s!outed at !im for a fool, and t!e la*& ran off) w!ile . said, ?.t is nearly finis!ed# Soon you *an let me go?# $e protested, saying t!at . must remain wit! t!em always, and not >ust till Damas*us, as . !ad promised in 9rn 2e>># ., w!o wanted so to get away# :eet *ame pattering to t!e tent-door, and paused, w!ile t!e *!iefs re*overed t!eir grave fa*es and set straig!t t!eir !ead-*lot!s for t!e entry# 8ne y one t!ey sat down stilly on t!e rugs, ea*! saying un*on*ernedly, ?,lease God, goodJ? (o ea*! :eisal replied, ?,raise GodA? and t!ey stared in wonder at !is dan*ing eyes# '!en t!e last !ad rustled in, :eisal told t!em t!at God !ad sent t!e means of vi*tory--two t!ousand riding-*amels# 8ur war was to mar*! un*!e*&ed to freedom, its triump!ant end# (!ey murmured in astonis!ment) doing t!eir est, as great men, to e *alm) eyeing me to guess my s!are in t!e event# . said, (!e ounty of Allen y # # #? Gaal *ut in swiftly for t!em all, ?God &eep !is Me and yours?# . replied, 'e !ave een made vi*torious?, stood up, wit! a ? y your leave? to :eisal, and slipped away to tell /oy*e# %e!ind my a*& t!ey urst out into wild words of t!eir *oming wilder deeds- *!ildis!, per!aps, ut it would e a pretty war in w!i*! ea*! man did not feel t!at !e was winning it# /oy*e also was gladdened and made smoot! y t!e news of t!e two t!ousand *amels# 'e dreamed of t!e stro&e to w!i*! t!ey s!ould e put- of t!eir mar*! from %eers!e a to A&a a- and w!ere for two mont!s we *ould find gra+ing for t!is vast multitude of animals) t!ey must e ro&en from arley if t!ey were to e of use to us# (!ese were not pressing t!oug!ts# 'e !ad, meanw!ile, t!e need to maintain ourselves all summer on t!e plateau, esieging Maan, and &eeping t!e railways *ut# (!e tas& was diffi*ult# :irst, a out supply# . !ad >ust t!rown t!e e3isting arrangements out of gear# (!e 4gyptian Camel (ransport *ompanies !ad een *arrying steadily etween A&a a and A a el 2issan, ut *arrying less and mar*!ing less t!an our least sanguine estimate# 'e urged t!em to in*rease weig!ts and speeds, ut found ourselves up against *ast-iron *orps regulations, framed to &eep down t!e figures of animal wastage# %y in*reasing t!em slig!tly, we *ould dou le t!e *arrying *apa*ity of t!e *olumn) *onse@uently, . !ad offered to ta&e over t!e animals and send a*& t!e 4gyptian *amel-men# (!e %ritis!, eing s!ort of la our, >umped at my idea) almost too @ui*&ly# 'e !ad a terri le s*ram le to improvise drivers upon t!e moment# Goslett, single-!anded, !ad !it!erto done supplies, transport, ordnan*e, paymaster, ase *ommandant# (!e e3tra wor& was *ruelty to !im# So Dawnay found S*ott, a perfe*t .ris!man, for ase *ommandant# $e !ad good temper, *apa*ity, spirit# A&a a reat!ed @uietly# 8rdnan*e we gave to %rig!t, sergeant or sergeant-ma>or- and 1oung too& over transport and @uartermaster wor&# 1oung !ad overstrained !imself, riding furiously etween 0aimat, $e>aia and %eni Sa&!r, etween 0asir and Mir+u& and :eisal, striving to *om ine and move t!em in one pie*e# .n*identally !e !ad furiously overstrained t!e Ara s# .n transport duties !is drive and a ility would e etter employed# 9sing !is full power, !e grappled wit! t!e *!aos# $e !ad no stores for !is *olumns, no saddles, no

*ler&s, no veterinaries, no drugs and few drivers, so t!at to run a !armonious and orderly train was impossi le) ut 1oung very nearly did it, in !is *urious ungrateful way# (!an&s to !im, t!e supply pro lem of t!e Ara regulars on t!e plateau wassolved# All t!is time t!e fa*e of our "evolt was growing# :eisal, veiled in !is tent, maintained in*essantly t!e tea*!ing and prea*!ing of !is Ara movement# A&a a oomed- even our field-wor& was going well# (!e Ara regulars !ad >ust !ad t!eir t!ird su**ess again st /erdun, t!e attered station w!i*! t!ey made it almost a !a it to ta&e and lose# 8ur armoured *ars !appened on a (ur&is! sortie from Maan and smas!ed it in su*! style t!at t!e opportunity never re*urred# Geid, in *ommand of !alf t!e army posted nort! of 9!eida, was s!owing great vigour# $is gaiety of spirit appealed more to t!e professional offi*ers t!an did :eisal?s poetry and lean earnestness) so t!is !appy asso*iation of t!e two rot!ers gave every sort of man a sympat!y wit! one or ot!er of t!e leaders of t!e revolt# 1et t!ere were *louds in t!e nort!# At Amman was a for*i le (ur&is! *on*entration of troops earmar&ed for Maan w!en supply *onditions would let t!em move# (!is supply reserve was eing put in y rail from Damas*us, as well as t!e om ing atta*&s of t!e "oyal Air :or*e from ,alestine permitted# (o ma&e !ead against t!em, 0asir, our est guerilla general, !ad een appointed, in advan*e of Geid, to do somet!ing great against t!e railway# $e !ad *amped in 'adi $esa, wit! $orn y, full of e3plosives, and ,ea&e?s trained se*tion of 4gyptian Army Camel Corps to !elp in demolition# (ime, till Allen y re*overed, was w!at we !ad to fig!t for, and 0asir would very mu*! !elp our desire if !e se*ured us a mont!?s reat!ing spa*e y playing t!e intangi le g!ost at t!e (ur&is! Army# .f !e failed we must e3pe*t t!e relief of Maan and an onslaug!t of t!e reinvigorated enemy upon A a el 2issan#

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0asir atta*&ed $esa station in !is old fas!ion, *utting t!e line to nort! and sout! t!e nig!t efore, and opening a s!arp om ardment of t!e uildings w!en it was lig!t enoug! to see# "asim was t!e gunner and t!e gun our ;rupp anti@uity of Medina, 'e>! and (afile!# '!en t!e (ur&s wea&ened, t!e Ara s *!arged into t!e station, %eni Sa&!r and $oweitat vying for t!e lead# 'e !ad, of *ourse, no &illed) as was ever t!e way wit! su*! ta*ti*s# $orn y and ,ea&e redu*ed t!e pla*e to a !eap of ruins# (!ey lew in t!e well, t!e tan&s, engines, pumps, uildings, t!ree ridges, rolling sto*&, and a out four miles of rail# 0e3t day 0asir moved nort!, and destroyed :araifra station# ,ea&e and $orn y *ontinued wor& t!at day and t!e day following# Altoget!er it sounded li&e our iggest demolition# . determined to go up and see for myself# A do+en of my men mar*!ed wit! me# %elow t!e "as!eidiya ridge we *ame to t!e lone tree, S!e>erat el (ayar# My $auranis drew rein under its t!orny ran*!es, on w!i*! were impaled many tatters of wayfarers? offered *lot!es# Mo!ammed said, ?9pon you, 8 Mustafa?# "elu*tantly Mustafa let !imself down from !is saddle and pie*e y pie*e too& off !is *lot!es, till nearly na&ed, w!en !e lay down ar*!ing !imself over t!e tum led *airn# (!e ot!er men dismounted, pi*&ed ea*! a t!orn, and in solemn file drove t!em B!ard and s!arp as rassC deep into !is fles! and left t!em standing t!ere# (!e Ageyl stared open-mout!ed at t!e *eremony, ut efore it ended swung t!emselves mon&ey-li&e down, grinning lewdly, and sta ed in t!eir t!orns w!ere t!ey would e most painful# Mustafa s!ivered @uietly till !e !eard Mo!ammed say, ?Get up?, using t!e feminine infle3ion# $e sadly pulled out t!e t!orns, dressed, and remounted# A dulla &new no reason for t!e punis!ment- and t!e $auranis? manner s!owed t!at t!ey did not wis! me to as& t!em# 'e rea*!ed $esa to find 0asir, wit! si3 !undred men, *on*ealed under *liffs and us!es, afraid of enemy air*raft, w!i*! !ad &illed many# 8ne om !ad fallen into a pool w!ile eleven *amels !ad een drin&ing, and !ad t!rown t!em all, dead, in a ring a out t!e water-side among torn flowers of oleander# 'e wrote to Air-<i*e-Mars!al Salmond for a revengeful *ounter-stro&e# (!e railway was still in 0asir?s !and, and w!enever t!ey !ad e3plosives $orn y and ,ea&e went down to it# (!ey !ad lown in a *utting, and were developing a new rail-demolition, turning over

ea*! se*tion y main for*e, as it was *ut# :rom Sultani in t!e nort! to /urf in t!e sout!, t!e damage e3tended# :ourteen miles# 0asir fully understood t!e importan*e of maintaining !is a*tivity, and t!ere seemed a fair !ope of !is lasting# $e !ad found a *omforta le and om -proof *ave etween two limestone reefs w!i*!, arti*ulated li&e teet!, ro&e out from t!e green !ill-side# (!e !eat and flies in t!e valley were not yet formida le# .t was running wit! water- fertile wit! pasture# %e!ind lay (afile!) and if 0asir were !ard pressed !e !ad only to send a message, and t!e mounted peasantry of t!e villages, on t!eir roug! ponies >angling wit! s!rill ells, would *ome pouring over t!e range to !is support# (!e day of our arrival t!e (ur&s sent a for*e of *amel *orps, *avalry and infantry, down to re-o**upy :araifra as a first *ounter-stro&e# 0asir at on*e was up and at t!em# '!ile !is ma*!ine-guns &ept down t!e (ur&s? !eads, t!e A u (ayi *!arged up to wit!in a !undred yards of t!e *rum ling wall w!i*! was t!e only defen*e, and *ut out all t!e *amels and some !orses# (o e3pose riding-animals to t!e sig!t of %eduins was a sure way to lose t!em# Afterwards . was down wit! Auda, near t!e for& of t!e valley, w!en t!ere *ame t!e t!ro ing and moaning over!ead of Mer*edes engines# 0ature stilled itself efore t!e master noise) even t!e irds and inse*ts !us!ed# 'e *rawled etween fallen oulders, and !eard t!e first om drop lower in t!e valley w!ere ,ea&e?s *amp lay !idden in a twelve-foot oleander t!i*&et# (!e ma*!ines were flying towards us, for t!e ne3t om s were nearer) and t!e last fell >ust in front, wit! a s!attering, dusty roar, y our *aptured *amels# '!en t!e smo&e *leared, two of t!em were &i*&ing in agony on t!e ground# A fa*eless man, spraying lood from a fringe of red fles! a out !is ne*&, stum led s*reaming towards our ro*&s# $e *ras!ed lindly over one and anot!er, tripping and s*ram ling wit! arms outstret*!ed, maddened y pain# .n a moment !e lay @uiet, and we w!o !ad s*attered from !im ventured near- ut !e was dead# . went a*& to 0asir, safe in !is *ave wit! 0awaf el :ai+, rot!er of Mit!gal, !ead of t!e %eni Sa&!r# 0awaf, a s!ifty man, was so full and *areful of !is pride t!at !e would stoop to any private meanness to preserve it pu li*ly- ut t!en !e was mad, li&e all t!e :ai+ *lan) un*ertain li&e t!em) and volu le, wit! fli*&ering eyes# 8ur a*@uaintan*e of efore t!e war !ad een renewed se*retly a year efore, w!en t!ree of us *rept in after sunset to t!eir ri*! family tents near Gi+a# :awa+, t!e senior :ai+, was a nota le Ara , a *ommitteeman of t!e Damas*us group, prominent in t!e party of independen*e# $e re*eived me wit! fair words and !ospitality, fed us ri*!ly, and roug!t out, after we !ad tal&ed, !is ri*!est ed-@uilts# . !ad slept an !our or two w!en a *!arged voi*e w!ispered t!roug! a smo&e-smelling eard into my ear# .t was 0awaf, t!e rot!er, to say t!at, e!ind t!e friendly seeming, :awa+ !ad sent !orsemen to Gi+a, and soon t!e troops would e !ere to ta&e me# 'e were *ertainly *aug!t# My Ara s *rou*!ed in t!eir pla*e, meaning to fig!t li&e *ornered animals, and &ill at least some of t!e enemy efore t!ey t!emselves died# Su*! ta*ti*s displeased me# '!en *om ats *ame to t!e p!ysi*al, are !and against !and, . was finis!ed# (!e disgust of eing tou*!ed revolted me more t!an t!e t!oug!t of deat! and defeat- per!aps e*ause one su*! terri le struggle in my yout! !ad given me an enduring fear of *onta*t- or e*ause . so reveren*ed my wits and despised my ody t!at . would not e e!olden to t!e se*ond for t!e life of t!e first# . w!ispered to 0awaf for *ounsel# $e *rawled a*& t!roug! t!e tent-*urtain) we followed dragging my few t!ings in t!eir lig!t saddle-pou*!# %e!ind t!e ne3t tent, !is own, sat t!e *amels, &nee-!altered and saddled# 'e mounted *ir*umspe*tly# 0awaf led out !is mare, and guided us, loaded rifle a*ross !is t!ig!, to t!e railway and eyond it into t!e desert# (!ere !e gave us t!e star-dire*tion of our supposed goal in %air# A few days later S!ei&! :awa+ was dead#

&()PTE" .&+II
. e3plained to :eisal t!at 0asir?s *utting of t!e line would endure anot!er mont!) and, after t!e (ur&s

!ad got rid of !im, it would e yet a t!ird mont! efore t!ey atta*&ed us in A a el 2issan# %y t!en our new *amels s!ould e fit for use in an offensive of our own# . suggested t!at we as& !is fat!er, ;ing $ussein, to transfer to A&a a t!e regular units at present wit! Ali and A dulla# (!eir reinfor*ement would raise us to ten t!ousand strong, in uniformed men# 'e would divide t!em into t!ree parts# (!e immo ile would *onstitute a retaining for*e to !old Maan @uiet# A t!ousand, on our new *amels, would atta*& t!e Deraa-Damas*us se*tor# (!e alan*e would form a se*ond e3pedition, of two or t!ree t!ousand infantry, to move into t!e %eni Sa&!r *ountry and *onne*t wit! Allen y at /eri*!o# (!e long-distan*e mounted raid, y ta&ing Deraa or Damas*us, would *ompel t!e (ur&s to wit!draw from ,alestine one division, or even two, to restore t!eir *ommuni*ations# %y so wea&ening t!e enemy, we would give Allen y t!e power to advan*e !is line, at any rate to 0a lus# (!e fall of 0a lus would *ut t!e lateral *ommuni*ation w!i*! made t!e (ur&s strong in Moa ) and t!ey would e *ompelled to fall a*& on Amman, yielding us @uiet possession of t!e /ordan ottom# ,ra*ti*ally . was proposing t!at we use up t!e $auran Ara s to let us rea*! /eri*!o, !alf-way to our Damas*us goal# :eisal fell in wit! t!e proposal, and gave me letters to !is fat!er advising it# 9n!appily t!e old man was, nowadays, little in*lined to ta&e !is advi*e, out of green-eyed !atred for t!is son w!o was doing too well and was eing disproportionately !elped y t!e %ritis!# :or dealing wit! t!e ;ing . relied on >oint-a*tion y 'ingate and Allen y, !is paymasters# . de*ided to go up to 4gypt personally, to press t!em to write !im letters of t!e ne*essary stiffness# .n Cairo, Dawnay agreed ot! to t!e transfer of t!e sout!ern regulars, and to t!e independent offensive# 'e went to 'ingate, argued it, and *onvin*ed !im t!at t!e ideas were good# $e wrote letters to ;ing $ussein, strongly advising t!e reinfor*ement of :eisal# . pressed !im to ma&e *lear to t!e ;ing t!at t!e *ontinuan*e of a war-su sidy would depend on !is giving effe*t to our advi*e- ut !e refused to e stringent, and *ou*!ed t!e letter in terms of politeness, w!i*! would e lost on t!e !ard and suspi*ious old man in Me**a# 1et t!e effort promised so mu*! for us t!at we went up to Allen y, to eg !is !elp wit! t!e ;ing# At G#$#H#, we felt a remar&a le differen*e in t!e air# (!e pla*e was, as always, t!ro ing wit! energy and !ope, ut now logi* and *o-ordination were manifest in an un*ommon degree# Allen y !ad a *urious lindness of >udgement in *!oosing men, due largely to !is positive greatness, w!i*! made good @ualities in !is su ordinates seem superfluous) ut C!etwode, not *ontent, !ad interposed again, setting up %art!olomew, !is own C!ief of Staff, in t!e t!ird pla*e of t!e !ierar*!y# %art!olomew, not made, li&e Dawnay, wit! many foreign sides to !is imagination, was yet more intri*ate, yet more polis!ed as a soldier, more *areful and *ons*ientious, and seemed a friendly team-leader# 'e unrolled efore !im our s*!eme to start t!e all rolling in t!e autumn, !oping y our pus!es to ma&e it possi le for !im to *ome in later vigorously to our support# $e listened smiling, and said t!at we were t!ree days too late# (!eir new army was arriving to time from Mesopotamia and .ndia) prodigious advan*es in grouping and training were eing made# 8n /une t!e fifteent! it !ad een t!e *onsidered opinion of a private *onferen*e t!at t!e army would e *apa le of a general and sustained offensive in Septem er# (!e s&y was, indeed, opening over us) and we went in to Allen y, w!o said outrig!t t!at late in Septem er !e would ma&e a grand atta*& to fulfil t!e Smuts? plan even to Damas*us and Aleppo# 8ur role would e as laid down in t!e spring) we must ma&e t!e Deraa raid on t!e two t!ousand new *amels# (imes and details would e fi3ed as t!e wee&s went on, and as %art!olomew?s *al*ulations too& s!ape# 8ur !opes of vi*tory !ad een too often das!ed for me to ta&e t!is as assured# So, for se*ond string, . got Allen y?s lessing upon t!e transfer of Ali?s and A dulla?s &!a&i-*lad *ontingents) and set off, fortified, to /edda!, w!ere . !ad no more su**ess t!an . e3pe*ted# (!e ;ing !ad got wind of my purpose and too& refuge, on t!e prete3t of "amad!an, in Me**a, !is ina**essi le *apital# 'e tal&ed over t!e telep!one, ;ing $ussein s!eltering !imself e!ind t!e in*ompeten*e of t!e operators in t!e Me**a e3*!ange, w!enever t!e su >e*t turned dangerous# My t!ronged mind was not in t!e mood for far*e, so . rang off, put :eisal?s, 'ingate?s and Allen y?s letters a*& unopened into my ag and

returned to Cairo in t!e ne3t s!ip#

,##- !I!E. ,alancin/ for a Last Effort

&()PTE"S .&+III T# &+I
Allenby, in rapid embodiment of reliefs from $ndia and #esopotamia, so surpassed hope that he was able to plan an autumn offensive. The near balance of the forces on each side meant that victory would depend on his subtly deceiving the Turks that their entire danger yet lay beyond the .ordan. 2e might help, by lying 4uiet for si% weeks, feigning a feebleness which should tempt the Turks to attack. The Arabs were then to lead off at the critical moment by cutting the railway communications of :alestine. Such bluff within bluff called for most accurate timing, since the balance would have been wrecked either by a premature Turkish retreat in :alestine, or by their premature attack against the Arabs beyond .ordan. 2e borrowed from Allenby some $mperial ;amel ;orps to lend e%tra colour to our supposed critical situation9 while preparations for 1eraa went on with no more check than an untimely show of pi4ue from King ,ussein.

&()PTE" .&+III
8n /uly t!e elevent! Dawnay and . were again tal&ing to Allen y and %art!olomew, and, of t!eir generosity and *onfiden*e, seeing t!e undress wor&ing of a general?s mind# .t was an e3perien*ete*!ni*al, reassuring, and very valua le to me, w!o was mildly a general, too, in my own odd s!ow# %ols was on leave w!ile t!e plans were wor&ing out# Sir 'alter Camp ell also was a sent) %art!olomew and 4vans, t!eir deputies, plotted to re-arrange t!e army transport, regardless of formations, wit! su*! elasti*ity t!at any pursuit *ould e sustained# Allen y?s *onfiden*e was li&e a wall# %efore t!e atta*& !e went to see !is troops massed in se*re*y, waiting t!e signal, and told t!em !e was sure, wit! t!eir good !elp, of t!irty t!ousand prisoners) t!is, w!en t!e w!ole game turned on a *!an*eA %art!olomew was most an3ious# $e said it would e desperate wor& to !ave t!e w!ole army re-formed y Septem er, and, even if t!ey were ready Ba*tually some rigades e3isted as su*! for t!e first time w!en t!ey went overC we must not assume t!at t!e atta*& would follow as planned# .t *ould e delivered only in t!e *oastal se*tor, opposite "amle!, t!e rail!ead, w!ere only *ould a ne*essary reserve of stores e gat!ered# (!is seemed so o vious t!at !e *ould not dream of t!e (ur&s staying lind, t!oug! momently t!eir dispositions ignored it# Allen y?s plan was to *olle*t t!e ul& of !is infantry and all !is *avalry under t!e orange and olive groves of "amleg! >ust efore Septem er t!e nineteent!# Simultaneously !e !oped to ma&e in t!e /ordan <alley su*! demonstrations as s!ould persuade t!e (ur&s of a *on*entration t!ere in progress# (!e two raids to Salt !ad fi3ed t!e (ur&s? eyes e3*lusively eyond /ordan# 4very move t!ere, w!et!er

of %ritis! or Ara s, was a**ompanied y *ounter-pre*autions on t!e (ur&s? part, s!owing !ow fearful t!ey were# .n t!e *oast se*tor, t!e area of real danger, t!e enemy !ad a surdly few men# Su**ess !ung on maintaining t!em in t!is fatal misappre*iation# After t!e Meinert+!agen su**ess, de*eptions, w!i*! for t!e ordinary general were >ust witty !ors d?oeuvres efore attle, e*ame for Allen y a main point of strategy# %art!olomew would a**ordingly ere*t Bnear /eri*!oC all *ondemned tents in 4gypt) would transfer veterinary !ospitals and si*& lines t!ere) would put dummy *amps, dummy !orses and dummy troops w!erever t!ere was plausi le room) would t!row more ridges a*ross t!e river) would *olle*t and open against enemy *ountry all *aptured guns) and on t!e rig!t days would ensure t!e movement of non-*om atant odies along t!e dusty roads, to give t!e impression of elevent!-!our *on*entrations for an assault# At t!e same time t!e "oyal Air :or*e was going to fill t!e air wit! !us anded formations of t!e latest fig!ting ma*!ines# (!e preponderan*e of t!ese would deprive t!e enemy for days of t!e advantage of air re*onnaissan*e# %art!olomew wis!ed us to supplement !is efforts wit! all vigour and ingenuity, from our side of Amman# 1et !e warned us t!at, even wit! t!is, su**ess would !ang on a t!read, sin*e t!e (ur&s *ould save t!emselves and t!eir army, and give us our *on*entration to do over again, y simply retiring t!eir *oast se*tor seven or eig!t miles# (!e %ritis! Army would t!en e li&e a fis! flapping on dry land, wit! its railways, its !eavy artillery, its dumps, its stores, its *amps all mispla*ed) and wit!out olive groves in w!i*! to !ide its *on*entration ne3t time# So, w!ile !e guaranteed t!at t!e %ritis! were doing t!eir utmost, !e implored us not to engage t!e Ara s, on !is e!alf, in a position from w!i*! t!ey *ould not es*ape# (!e no le prospe*t sent Dawnay and myself a*& to Cairo in great fettle and *ogitation# 0ews from A&a a !ad raised again t!e @uestion of defending t!e plateau against t!e (ur&s, w!o !ad >ust turned 0asir out of $esa and were *ontemplating a stro&e against A a el 2issan a out t!e end of August, w!en our Deraa deta*!ment s!ould start# 9nless we *ould delay t!e (ur&s anot!er fortnig!t, t!eir t!reat mig!t *ripple us#A new fa*tor was urgently re@uired# At t!is >un*ture Dawnay was inspired to t!in& of t!e surviving attalion of t!e .mperial Camel Corps# ,er!aps G#$#H#, mig!t lend it us to *onfuse t!e (ur&s? re*&oning# 'e telep!oned %art!olomew, w!o understood, and a*&ed our re@uest to %ols in Ale3andria, and to Allen y# After an a*tive telegrap!ing, we got our way# Colonel %u3ton, wit! t!ree !undred men, was lent to us for a mont! on two *onditions- first, t!at we s!ould fort!wit! furnis! t!eir s*!eme of operations) se*ond, t!at t!ey s!ould !ave no *asualties# %art!olomew felt it ne*essary to apologi+e for t!e last magnifi*ent, !eartwarming *ondition, w!i*! !e t!oug!t unsoldierly# Dawnay and . sat down wit! a map and measured t!at %u3ton s!ould mar*! from t!e Canal to A&a a) t!en*e, y "um, to *arry Mudowwara y nig!t-atta*&) t!en*e y %air, to destroy t!e ridge and tunnel near Amman) and a*& to ,alestine on August t!e t!irtiet!# (!eir a*tivity would give us a pea*eful mont!, in w!i*! our two t!ousand new *amels *ould learn to gra+e, w!ile *arrying t!e e3tra dumps of forage and food w!i*! %u3ton?s for*e would e3pe*t# As we wor&ed out t!ese s*!emes, t!ere *ame from A&a a one more ela orate, wor&ed out grap!i*ally y 1oung for /oy*e, on our /une understanding for independent Ara operations in $auran# (!ey !ad figured out t!e food, ammunition, forage, and transport for two t!ousand men of all ran&s, from A a el 2issan to Deraa# (!ey !ad ta&en into *onsideration all our resour*es and wor&ed out s*!edules y w!i*! dumps would e *ompleted and t!e atta*& egun in 0ovem er# 4ven !ad Allen y not pulled !is army toget!er t!is s*!eme would !ave ro&en down intrinsi*ally# .t depended on t!e immediate reinfor*ement of t!e Ara Army at A a el 2issan, w!i*! ;ing $ussein !ad refused) also 0ovem er was too near to winter wit! its muddy impassa le roads in t!e $auran# 'eat!er and strengt!s mig!t e matters of opinion- ut Allen y meant to atta*& on Septem er t!e nineteent!, and wanted us to lead off not more t!an four nor less t!an two days efore !e did# $is words to me were t!at t!ree men and a oy wit! pistols in front of Deraa on Septem er t!e si3teent!

would fill !is *on*eption) would !e etter t!an t!ousands a wee& efore or a wee& after# (!e trut! was, !e *ared not!ing for our fig!ting power, and did not re*&on us part of !is ta*ti*al strengt!# 8ur purpose, to !im, was moral, psy*!ologi*al, diat!eti*) to &eep t!e enemy *ommand intent upon t!e trans-/ordan front# .n my 4nglis! *apa*ity . s!ared t!is view, ut on my Ara side ot! agitation and attle seemed e@ually important, t!e one to serve t!e >oint su**ess, t!e ot!er to esta lis! Ara selfrespe*t, wit!out w!i*! vi*tory would not e w!olesome# So, un!esitatingly, we laid t!e 1oung s*!eme aside and turned to uild up our own# (o rea*! Deraa from A a el 2issan would ta&e a fortnig!t- t!e *utting of t!e t!ree railways and wit!drawal to reform in t!e desert, anot!er wee&# 8ur raiders must *arry t!eir maintenan*e for t!ree wee&s# (!e pi*ture of w!at t!is meant was in my !ead--we !ad een doing it for two years--and so at on*e . gave Dawnay my estimate t!at our two t!ousand *amels, in a single >ourney, wit!out advan*ed depots or supplementary supply *olumns, would suffi*e five !undred regular mounted infantry, t!e attery of :ren*! @ui*&-firing Npoint 75N mountain guns, proportionate ma*!ine-guns, two armoured *ars, sappers, *amel-s*outs, and two aeroplanes until we !ad fulfilled our mission# (!is seemed li&e a li eral reading of Allen y?s t!ree men and a oy# 'e told %art!olomew, and re*eived G#$#H# lessing# 1oung and /oy*e were not est pleased w!en . returned to say t!at t!e great s*!edule !ad een torn up# . did not *all t!eir plans top-!eavy and too late- . t!rew t!e onus of *!ange on Allen y?s re*overy# My new proposal--for w!i*! in advan*e . !ad pledged t!eir performan*e--was an intri*ate dovetailing in t!e ne3t *rowded mont! and a !alf, of a ?spoiling? raid y t!e %ritis! Camel Corps and t!e main raid to surprise t!e (ur&s y Deraa# /oy*e felt t!at . !ad made a mista&e# (o introdu*e foreigners would unman t!e Ara s) and to let t!em go a mont! later would e even worse# 1oung returned a stu orn, *om ative ?impossi le? to my idea# (!e Camel Corps would engross t!e aggage *amels, w!i*! ot!erwise mig!t !ave ena led t!e Deraa for*e to rea*! its goal# %y trying to do two greedy t!ings . s!ould end in doing neit!er# . argued my *ase and we !ad a attle# .n t!e first pla*e . ta*&led /oy*e *on*erning t!e .mperial Camel Corps# (!ey would arrive one morning at A&a a--no Ara suspe*ting t!em--and would vanis! e@ually suddenly towards "umm# :rom Mudowwara to ;issir ridge t!ey would mar*! in t!e desert, far from t!e sig!t of t!e Ara Army, and from t!e !earing of t!e villages# .n t!e resultant vagueness t!e enemy intelligen*e would *on*lude t!at t!e w!ole of t!e defun*t *amel rigade was now on :eisal?s front# Su*! an a**ession of s!o*&-strengt! to :eisal would ma&e t!e (ur&s very tender of t!e safety of t!eir railway- w!ile %u3ton?s appearan*e at ;issir, apparently on preliminary re*onnaissan*e, would put *reden*e into t!e wildest tales of our intention s!ortly to atta*& Amman# /oy*e, disarmed y t!ese reasonings, now a*&ed me wit! !is favoura le opinion# :or 1oung?s transport trou les . !ad little sympat!y# $e, a new *omer, said my pro lems were insolu le- ut . !ad done su*! t!ings *asually, wit!out !alf !is a ility and *on*entration) and &new t!ey were not even diffi*ult# :or t!e Camel Corps, we left !im to grapple wit! weig!ts and timeta les, sin*e t!e %ritis! Army was !is profession) and t!oug! !e would not promise anyt!ing Be3*ept t!at it *ould not e doneC, done of *ourse it was, and two or t!ree days efore t!e ne*essary time# (!e Deraa raid was a different proposition, and point y point . disputed !is *on*eption of its nature and e@uipment# . *rossed out forage, t!e !eaviest item, after %air# 1oung e*ame ironi* upon t!e patient enduran*e of *amels- ut t!is year t!e pasture was grand in t!e A+ra& Deraa region# :rom t!e men?s food . *ut off provision for t!e se*ond atta*&, and t!e return >ourney# 1oung supposed aloud t!at t!e men would fig!t well !ungry# . e3plained t!at we would live on t!e *ountry# 1oung t!oug!t it a poor *ountry to live on# . *alled it very good# $e said t!at t!e ten days? mar*! !ome after t!e atta*&s would e a long fast- ut . !ad no intention of *oming a*& to A&a a# (!en mig!t !e as& if it was defeat or vi*tory w!i*! was in my mindJ . pointed out !ow ea*! man !ad a *amel under !im, and if we &illed only si3 *amels a day t!e w!ole for*e

would feed a undantly# 1et t!is did not sola*e !im# . went on to *ut down !is petrol, *ars, ammunition, and everyt!ing else to t!e e3a*t point, wit!out margin, w!i*! would meet w!at we planned# .n riposte !e e*ame aggressively regular# . prosed fort! on my !oary t!eorem t!at we lived y our raggedness and eat t!e (ur& y our un*ertainty# 1oung?s s*!eme was faulty, e*ause pre*ise# .nstead, we would mar*! a *amel *olumn of one t!ousand men to A+ra& w!ere t!eir *on*entration must e *omplete on Septem er t!e t!irteent!# 8n t!e si3teent! we would envelop Deraa, and *ut its railways# (wo days later we would fall a*& east of t!e $e>a+ "ailway and wait events wit! Allen y# As reserve against a**ident we would pur*!ase arley in /e el Druse, and store it at A+ra&# 0uri S!aalan would a**ompany us wit! a *ontingent of "ualla- also t!e Serdiye!) t!e Sera!in) and $aurani peasants of t!e ?$ollow 2and?, under (alal el $areid!in# 1oung t!oug!t it a deplora le adventure# /oy*e, w!o !ad loved our dog-fig!t *onferen*e, was game to try, t!oug! dou ting . was am itious# $owever, it was sure t!at ot! would do t!eir est, sin*e t!e t!ing was already settled) and Dawnay !ad !elped t!e organi+ing side y getting us from G#$#H#, t!e loan of Stirling, a s&illed staff offi*er, ta*tful and wise# Stirling?s passion for !orses was a passport to intima*y wit! :eisal and t!e *!iefs# Among t!e Ara offi*ers were distri uted some %ritis! military de*orations, to&ens of t!eir gallantry a out Maan# (!ese mar&s of Allen y?s esteem !eartened t!e Ara Army# 0uri ,as!a Said offered to *ommand t!e Deraa e3pedition, for w!i*! !is *ourage, aut!ority and *oolness mar&ed !im as t!e ideal leader# $e egan to pi*& for it t!e est four !undred men in t!e army# ,isani, t!e :ren*! *ommandant, fortified y a Military Cross, and in urgent pursuit of a D#S#8#, too& odily possession of t!e four S*!neider guns w!i*! Cousse !ad sent down to us after %remond left) and spent agoni+ed !ours wit! 1oung, trying to put t!e s*!eduled ammunition, and mule-forage, wit! !is men and !is own private &it*!en on to one-!alf t!e re@uisite *amels# (!e *amps u++ed wit! eagerness and preparation, and all promised well# 8ur own family rifts were distressing, ut inevita le# (!e Ara affair !ad now outgrown our roug! and ready !elp-organi+ation# %ut t!e ne3t was pro a ly t!e last a*t, and y a little patien*e we mig!t ma&e our present resour*es serve# (!e trou les were only etween ourselves, and t!an&s to t!e magnifi*ent unselfis!ness of /oy*e, we preserved enoug! of team-spirit to prevent a *omplete rea&down, !owever !ig!-!anded . appeared- and . !ad a reserve of *onfiden*e to *arry t!e w!ole t!ing, if need e, on my s!oulders# (!ey used to t!in& me oastful w!en . said so- ut my *onfiden*e was not so mu*! a ility to do a t!ing perfe*tly, as a preferen*e for ot*!ing it some!ow rat!er t!an letting it go altoget!er y default#

&()PTE" .&I.
.t was now t!e end of /uly, and y t!e end of August t!e Deraa e3pedition must e on t!e road# .n t!e meantime %u3ton?s Camel Corps !ad to e guided t!roug! t!eir programme, 0uri S!aalan warned, t!e armoured *ars taug!t t!eir road to A+ra&, and landing-grounds found for aeroplanes# A usy mont!# 0uri S!aalan, t!e furt!est, was ta*&led first# $e was *alled to meet :eisal at /efer a out August t!e sevent!# %u3ton?s for*e seemed t!e se*ond need# . told :eisal, under seal, of t!eir *oming# (o ensure t!eir !aving no *asualties, t!ey must stri&e Mudowwara wit! a solute surprise# . would guide t!em myself to "umm, in t!e first *riti*al mar*! t!roug! t!e fag-ends of $oweitat a out A&a a# A**ordingly . went down to A&a a, w!ere %u3ton let me e3plain to ea*! *ompany t!eir mar*!, and t!e impatient nature of t!e Allies w!om t!ey, unas&ed, !ad *ome to !elp) egging t!em to turn t!e ot!er *!ee& if t!ere was a row) partly e*ause t!ey were etter edu*ated t!an t!e Ara s, and t!erefore less pre>udi*ed) partly e*ause t!ey were very few# After su*! solemnities *ame t!e ride up t!e oppressive gorge of .tm, under t!e red *liffs of 0e>ed and over t!e reast-li&e *urves of .mran--t!at slow preparation for "umm?s greatness--till we passed t!roug! t!e gap efore t!e ro*& ;!u+ail, and into t!e inner s!rine of t!e springs, wit! its wors!ip-*ompelling *oolness# (!ere t!e lands*ape refused to e a**essory, ut too& t!e s&ies, and we *!attering !umans e*ame dust at its feet#

.n "umm t!e men !ad t!eir first e3perien*e of watering in e@uality wit! Ara s, and found it trou lesome# $owever, t!ey were wonderfully mild, and %u3ton was an old Sudan offi*ial, spea&ing Ara i*, and understanding nomadi* ways) very patient, good-!umoured, sympat!eti*# $a+aa was !elpful in admonis!ing t!e Ara s, and Stirling and Mars!all, w!o a**ompanied t!e *olumn, were familiars of t!e %eni Atiye!# (!an&s to t!eir diploma*y, and to t!e *are of t!e %ritis! ran& and file, not!ing untoward !appened# . stayed at "umm for t!eir first day, dum at t!e unreality of t!ese !ealt!y-loo&ing fellows, li&e stiffodied s*!ool oys in t!eir s!irt-sleeves and s!orts, as t!ey wandered, anonymous and irresponsi le, a out t!e *liffs w!i*! !ad een my private resort# (!ree years of Sinai !ad urned t!e *olour from t!eir tanned fa*es, in w!i*! t!e lue eyes fli*&ered wea&ly against t!e dar& possessed ga+e of t!e %eduin# :or t!e rest t!ey were a road-fa*ed, low- rowed people, lunt-featured eside t!e finedrawn Ara s w!om generations of in- reeding !ad s!arpened to a radian*e ages older t!an t!e primitive, lot*!ed, !onest 4nglis!men# Continental soldiers loo&ed lumpis! eside our lean- red fellows- ut against my supple 0e>dis t!e %ritis! in t!eir turn loo&ed lumpis!# 2ater . rode for A&a a, t!roug! t!e !ig!-walled .tm, alone now wit! si3 silent, un@uestioning guards, w!o followed after me li&e s!adows, !armonious and su merged in t!eir natural sand and us! and !ill) and a !ome-si*&ness *ame over me, stressing vividly my out*ast life among t!ese Ara s, w!ile . e3ploited t!eir !ig!est ideals and made t!eir love of freedom one more tool to !elp 4ngland win# .t was evening, and on t!e straig!t ar of Sinai a!ead t!e low sun was falling, its glo e e3travagantly rilliant in my eyes, e*ause . was dead-tired of my Me, longing as seldom efore for t!e moody s&ies of 4ngland# (!is sunset was fier*e, stimulant, ar ari*) reviving t!e *olours of t!e desert li&e a draug!t--as indeed it did ea*! evening, in a new mira*le of strengt! and !eat--w!ile my longings were for wea&ness, *!ills and grey mistiness, t!at t!e world mig!t not e so *rystalline *lear, so definitely rig!t and wrong# 'e 4nglis!, w!o lived years a road among strangers, went always dressed in t!e pride of our remem ered *ountry, t!at strange entity w!i*! !ad no part wit! t!e in!a itants, for t!ose w!o loved 4ngland most, often li&ed 4nglis!men least# $ere, in Ara ia, in t!e war?s need, . was trading my !onesty for !er sustenan*e, inevita ly# .n A&a a t!e rest of my odyguard were assem led, prepared for vi*tory, for . !ad promised t!e $auran men t!at t!ey s!ould pass t!is great feast in t!eir freed villages- and its date was near# So for t!e last time we mustered on t!e windy ea*! y t!e sea?s edge, t!e sun on its rilliant waves glinting in rivalry wit! my flas!ing and *!anging men# (!ey were si3ty# Seldom !ad t!e Gaagi roug!t so many of !is troop toget!er, and as we rode into t!e rown !ills for Guweira !e was usy sorting t!em in Ageyl fas!ion, *entre and wings, wit! poets and singers on t!e rig!t and left# So our ride was musi*al# .t !urt !im . would not !ave a anner, li&e a prin*e# . was on my G!a+ala, t!e old grandmot!er *amel, now again magnifi*ently fit# $er foal !ad lately died, and A dulla, w!o rode ne3t me, !ad s&inned t!e little *ar*ase, and *arried t!e dry pelt e!ind !is saddle, li&e a *rupper pie*e# 'e started well, t!an&s to t!e Gaagi?s *!anting, ut after an !our G!a+ala lifted !er !ead !ig!, and egan to pa*e uneasily, pi*&ing up !er feet li&e a sword-dan*er# . tried to urge !er- ut A dulla das!ed alongside me, swept !is *loa& a out !im, and sprang from !is saddle, *alfs s&in in !and# $e lig!ted wit! a splas! of gravel in front of G!a+ala, w!o !ad *ome to a standstill, gently moaning# 8n t!e ground efore !er !e spread t!e little !ide, and drew !er !ead down to it# S!e stopped *rying, s!uffled its dryness t!ri*e wit! !er lips) t!en again lifted !er !ead and, wit! a w!imper, strode forward# Several times in t!e day t!is !appened) ut afterwards s!e seemed to forget# At Guweira, Siddons !ad an aeroplane waiting# 0uri S!aalan and :eisal wanted me at on*e in /efer# (!e air was t!in and umpy, so t!at we !ardly s*raped over t!e *rest of S!tar# . sat wondering if we would *ras!, almost !oping it# . felt sure 0uri was a out to *laim fulfilment of our dis!onoura le !alf- argain, w!ose e3e*ution seemed more impure t!an its t!oug!t# Deat! in t!e air would e a *lean

es*ape) yet . s*ar*ely !oped it, not from fear, for . was too tired to e mu*! afraid- nor from s*ruple, for our lives seemed to me a solutely our own, to &eep or give away- ut from !a it, for lately . !ad ris&ed myself only w!en it seemed profita le to our *ause# . was usy *ompartmenting-up my mind, finding instin*t and reason as ever at strong war# .nstin*t said ?Die?, ut reason said t!at was only to *ut t!e mind?s tet!er, and loose it into freedom- etter to see& some mental deat!, some slow wasting of t!e rain to sin& it elow t!ese pu++lements# An a**ident was meaner t!an deli erate fault# .f . did not !esitate to ris& my life, w!y fuss to dirty itJ 1et life and !onour seemed in different *ategories, not a le to e sold one for anot!er- and for !onour, !ad . not lost t!at a year ago w!en . assured t!e Ara s t!at 4ngland &ept !er plig!ted wordJ 8r was !onour li&e t!e Sy il?s leaves, t!e more t!at was lost t!e more pre*ious t!e little leftJ .ts part e@ual to t!e w!oleJ My self-se*re*y !ad left me no ar iter of responsi ility# (!e de au*! of p!ysi*al wor& yet ended in a *raving for more, w!ile t!e everlasting dou t, t!e @uestioning, ound up my mind in a giddy spiral and left me never spa*e for t!oug!t# So we *ame at last, alive, to /efer, w!ere met us :eisal and 0uri in t!e smoot!est spirits, wit! no mention of my pri*e# .t seemed in*redi le t!at t!is old man !ad freely >oined our yout!# :or !e was very old) livid, and worn, wit! a grey sorrow and remorse a out !im and a itter smile t!e only mo ility of !is fa*e# 9pon !is *oarse eyelas!es t!e eyelids sagged down in tired folds, t!roug! w!i*!, from t!e over!ead sun, a red lig!t glittered into !is eye-so*&ets and made t!em loo& li&e fiery pits in w!i*! t!e man was slowly urning# 8nly t!e dead la*& of !is dyed !air, only t!e dead s&in of t!e fa*e, wit! its net of lines, etrayed !is seventy years# (!ere was *eremonial tal& a out t!is little-spo&en leader, for wit! !im were t!e !ead men of !is tri e, famous s!ei&!s so odied out wit! sil&s of t!eir own wearing, or of :eisal?s gift, t!at t!ey rustled li&e women w!ile moving in slow state li&e o3en# :irst of t!em was :ans- li&e $amlet, not forgiving 0uri !is murdered fat!er, Sottam- a lean man wit! drooping mousta*!e, and w!ite, unnatural fa*e, w!o met t!e !idden *ensure of t!e world wit! a soft manner and lus*ious, depre*ating voi*e# ?'ifham? !e s@uea&ed of me in astonis!ment ?$e understands our Ara i*?# (rad and Sultan were t!ere, round-eyed, grave, and dire*t-spo&en) !onoura le figures of men, and great leaders of *avalry# Also Mi>!em, t!e re ellious, !ad een roug!t in y :eisal and re*on*iled wit! !is unwilling un*le, w!o seemed only !alf to tolerate !is small-featured lea& presen*e eside !im, t!oug! Mi>!em?s manner was eagerly friendly# Mi>!em was a great leader too, (rad?s rival in t!e *ondu*t of raids, ut wea& and *ruel at !eart# $e sat ne3t ;!alid, (rad?s rot!er, anot!er !ealt!y, *!eerful rider, li&e (rad in fa*e, ut not so full a man# Dur+i i n Dug!mi swelled in and wel*omed me, reminding me ungratefully of !is greediness at 0e &- a one-eyed, sinister, !oo&-nosed man) !eavy, mena*ing and mean, ut rave# (!ere was t!e ;!affa>i, t!e spoilt *!ild of 0uri?s age, w!o loo&ed for e@uality of friendliness from me, e*ause of !is fat!er, and not for any promise in !imself- !e was young enoug! to e glad of t!e looming adventure of war and proud of !is new ristling weapons# %ender, t!e laug!ing oy, fellow in years and play wit! t!e ;!affa>i, tripped me efore t!em all y egging for a pla*e in my odyguard# $e !ad !eard from my "a!ail, !is foster- rot!er, of t!eir immoderate griefs and >oys, and servitude *alled to !im wit! its unw!olesome glamour# . fen*ed, and w!en !e pleaded furt!er, turned it y muttering t!at . was not a ;ing to !ave S!aalan servants# 0uri?s som re loo& met mine for a moment, in approval# %eside me sat "a!ail, pea*o*&ing !is lusty self in strident *lot!es# 9nder *over of t!e *onversation !e w!ispered me t!e name of ea*! *!ief# (!ey !ad not to as& w!o . was, for my *lot!es and appearan*e were pe*uliar in t!e desert# .t was notoriety to e t!e only *leans!aven one, and . dou led it y wearing always t!e suspe*t pure sil&, of t!e w!itest Bat least outsideC, wit! a gold and *rimson Me**an !ead-rope, and gold dagger# %y so dressing . sta&ed a *laim w!i*! :eisal?s pu li* *onsideration of me *onfirmed# Many times in su*! *oun*ils !ad :eisal won over and set aflame new tri es, many times !ad t!e wor&

fallen to me) ut never until to-day !ad we een a*tively toget!er in one *ompany, reinfor*ing and relaying one anot!er, from our opposite poles- and t!e wor& went li&e *!ild?s play) t!e "ualla melted in our dou le !eat# 'e *ould move t!em wit! a tou*! and a word# (!ere was tenseness, a !olding of reat!, t!e glitter of elief in t!eir t!in eyes so fi3ed on us# :eisal roug!t nationality to t!eir minds in a p!rase, w!i*! set t!em t!in&ing of Ara !istory and language) t!en !e dropped into silen*e for a moment- for wit! t!ese illiterate masters of t!e tongue words were lively, and t!ey li&ed to savour ea*!, unmingled, on t!e palate# Anot!er p!rase s!owed t!em t!e spirit of :eisal, t!eir fellow and leader, sa*rifi*ing everyt!ing for t!e national freedom) and t!en silen*e again, w!ile t!ey imagined !im day and nig!t in !is tent, tea*!ing, prea*!ing, ordering and ma&ing friends- and t!ey felt somet!ing of t!e idea e!ind t!is pi*tured man sitting t!ere i*oni*ally, drained of desires, am itions, wea&ness, faults) so ri*! a personality enslaved y an a stra*tion, made one-eyed, one armed, wit! t!e one sense and purpose, to live or die in its servi*e# 8f *ourse it was a pi*ture-man) not fles! and lood, ut nevert!eless true, for !is individuality !ad yielded its t!ird dimension to t!e idea, !ad surrendered t!e world?s wealt! and artifi*es# :eisal was !idden in !is tent, veiled to remain our leader- w!ile in reality !e was nationality?s est servant, its tool, not its owner# 1et in t!e tented twilig!t not!ing seemed more no le# $e went on to *on>ure up for t!em t!e trammelled enemy on t!e eternal defensive, w!ose est end was to !ave done no more t!an t!e ne*essary# '!ile we a stinents swam *almly and *oolly in t!e friendly silen*e of t!e desert, till pleased to *ome as!ore# 8ur *onversation was *unningly dire*ted to lig!t trains of t!eir uried t!oug!ts) t!at t!e e3*itement mig!t e t!eir own and t!e *on*lusions native, not inserted y us# Soon we felt t!em &indle- we leaned a*&, wat*!ing t!em move and spea&, and vivify ea*! ot!er wit! mutual !eat, till t!e air was vi rant, and in stammered p!rases t!ey e3perien*ed t!e first !eave and t!rust of notions w!i*! ran up eyond t!eir sig!t# (!ey turned to !urry us, t!emselves t!e egetters, and we laggard strangers- strove to ma&e us *ompre!end t!e full intensity of t!eir elief) forgot us) flas!ed out t!e means and end of our desire# A new tri e was added to our *omity- t!oug! 0uri?s plain ?1es? at t!e end *arried more t!an all !ad said# .n our prea*!ing t!ere was not!ing merely nervous# 'e did our est to e3*lude t!e senses, t!at our support mig!t e slow, dura le, unsentimental# 'e wanted no ri*e-*onverts# ,ersistently we did refuse to let our a undant and famous gold ring over t!ose not spiritually *onvin*ed# (!e money was a *onfirmation) mortar, not uilding stone# (o !ave oug!t men would !ave put our movement on t!e ase of interest) w!ereas our followers must e ready to go all t!e way wit!out ot!er mi3ture in t!eir motives t!an !uman frailty# 4ven ., t!e stranger, t!e godless fraud inspiring an alien nationality, felt a delivery from t!e !atred and eternal @uestioning of self in my imitation of t!eir ondage to t!e idea) and t!is despite t!e la*& of instin*t in my own performan*e# :or naturally . *ould not long de*eive myself) ut my part was wor&ed out so flippantly t!at none ut /oy*e, 0esi and Mo!ammed el D!eilan seemed to &now . was a*ting# 'it! man-instin*tive, anyt!ing elieved y two or t!ree !ad a mira*ulous san*tion to w!i*! individual ease and life mig!t !onestly e sa*rifi*ed# (o man-rational, wars of nationality were as mu*! a *!eat as religious wars, and not!ing was wort! fig!ting for- nor *ould fig!ting, t!e a*t of fig!ting, !old any need of intrinsi* virtue# 2ife was so deli erately private t!at no *ir*umstan*es *ould >ustify one man in laying violent !ands upon anot!er?s- t!oug! a man?s own deat! was !is last free will, a saving gra*e and measure of intolera le pain# 'e made t!e Ara s strain on tip-toe to rea*! our *reed, for it led to wor&s, a dangerous *ountry w!ere men mig!t ta&e t!e deed for t!e will# My fault, my lindness of leaders!ip Beager to find a @ui*& means to *onversionC allowed t!em t!is finite image of our end, w!i*! properly e3isted only in unending effort towards unattaina le imagined lig!t# 8ur *rowd see&ing lig!t in t!ings were li&e pat!eti* dogs snuffling round t!e s!an& of a lamp-post# .t was only myself w!o valeted t!e a stra*t, w!ose duty too& !im eyond t!e s!rine#

(!e irony was in my loving o >e*ts efore life or ideas) t!e in*ongruity in my answering t!e infe*tious *all of a*tion, w!i*! laid weig!t on t!e diversity of t!ings# .t was a !ard tas& for me to straddle feeling and a*tion# . !ad !ad one *raving all my life--for t!e power of self-e3pression in some imaginative form-- ut !ad een too diffuse ever to a*@uire a te*!ni@ue# At last a**ident, wit! perverted !umour, in *asting me as a man of a*tion !ad given me pla*e in t!e Ara "evolt, a t!eme ready and epi* to a dire*t eye and !and, t!us offering me an outlet in literature, t!e te*!ni@ue-less art# '!ereupon . e*ame e3*ited only over me*!anism# (!e epi* mode was alien to me, as to my generation# Memory gave me no *lue to t!e !eroi*, so t!at . *ould not feel su*! men as Auda in myself# $e seemed fantasti* as t!e !ills of "umm, old as Mallory# Among t!e Ara s . was t!e disillusioned, t!e s*epti*, w!o envied t!eir *!eap elief# (!e unper*eived s!am loo&ed so well-fitting and e*oming a dress for s!oddy man# (!e ignorant, t!e superfi*ial, t!e de*eived were t!e !appy among us# %y our swindle t!ey were glorified# 'e paid for t!em our selfrespe*t, and t!ey gained t!e deepest feeling of t!eir lives# (!e more we *ondemned and despised ourselves, t!e more we *ould *yni*ally ta&e pride in t!em, our *reatures# .t was so easy to over*redit ot!ers- so impossi le to write down t!eir motives to t!e level of our own un*!arita le trut!# (!ey were our dupes, w!ole!eartedly fig!ting t!e enemy# (!ey lew efore our intentions li&e *!aff, eing not *!aff, ut t!e ravest, simplest and merriest of men# ;redo 4uia sumJ %ut did not t!e eing elieved y many ma&e for a distorted rig!teousnessJ (!e mounting toget!er of t!e devoted !opes of years from near-sig!ted multitudes, mig!t endow even an unwilling idol wit! God!ead, and strengt!en .t w!enever men prayed silently to $im#

&()PTE" &
9pon t!is te3t my mind went weaving a*ross its dusty spa*e, amid t!e sun eam t!oug!ts and t!eir dan*ing motes of idea# (!en . saw t!at t!is preferring t!e 9n&nown to t!e God was a s*apegoat idea, w!i*! lulled only to a false pea*e# (o endure y order, or e*ause it was a duty--t!at was easy# (!e soldier suffered only involuntary &no*&s) w!ereas our will !ad to play t!e ganger till t!e wor&men fainted, to &eep in a safe pla*e and t!rust ot!ers into danger# .t mig!t !ave een !eroi* to !ave offered up my own life for a *ause in w!i*! . *ould not elieve- ut it was a t!eft of souls to ma&e ot!ers die in sin*erity for my graven image# %e*ause t!ey a**epted our message as trut!, t!ey were ready to e &illed for it) a *ondition w!i*! made t!eir a*ts more proper t!an glorious, a logi*al astard fortitude, suita le to a profit and loss alan*e of *ondu*t# (o invent a message, and t!en wit! open eye to peris! for its self-made image--t!at was greater# (!e w!ole usiness of t!e movement seemed to e e3pressi le only in terms of deat! and life# Generally we were *ons*ious of our fles! e*ause it !urt us# /oy *ame s!arper from our long !a itude of pain) ut our resour*es in suffering seemed greater t!an our *apa*ity for gladness# 2et!argy played its part !ere# %ot! emotions were in our gift, for our pain was full of eddies, *onfusing its purity# A reef on w!i*! many *ame to a s!ipwre*& of estimation was t!e vanity t!at our enduran*e mig!t win redemption, per!aps for all a ra*e# Su*! false investiture red a !ot t!oug! transient satisfa*tion, in t!at we felt we !ad assumed anot!er?s pain or e3perien*e, !is personality# .t was triump!, and a mood of enlargement) we !ad avoided our sultry selves, *on@uered our geometri*al *ompleteness, snat*!ed a momentary ?*!ange of mind?# 1et in reality we !ad orne t!e vi*arious for our own sa&es, or at least e*ause it was pointed for our enefit- and *ould es*ape from t!is &nowledge only y a ma&e- elief in sense as well as in motive# (!e self-immolated vi*tim too& for !is own t!e rare gift of sa*rifi*e) and no pride and few pleasures in t!e world were so >oyful, so ri*! as t!is *!oosing voluntarily anot!er?s evil to perfe*t t!e self# (!ere was a !idden selfis!ness in it, as in all perfe*tions# (o ea*! opportunity t!ere *ould e only one vi*ar, and t!e snat*!ing of it ro ed t!e fellows of t!eir due !urt# (!eir vi*ar re>oi*ed, w!ile !is ret!ren were wounded in t!eir man!ood# (o a**ept !um ly so ri*! a release was imperfe*tion in t!em- t!eir gladness at t!e saving of its *ost was sinful in t!at it made t!em a**essory, part-guilty of infli*ting it

upon t!eir mediator# $is purer part, for t!e mediator, mig!t !ave een to stand among t!e *rowd, to wat*! anot!er win t!e *leanness of a redeemer?s name# %y t!e one road lay self-perfe*tion, y t!e ot!er self-immolation, and a ma&ing perfe*t of t!e neig! our# $auptmann told us to ta&e as generously as we gave- ut rat!er we seemed li&e t!e *ells of a ee-*om , of w!i*! one mig!t *!ange, or swell itself, only at t!e *ost of all# (o endure for anot!er in simpli*ity gave a sense of greatness# (!ere was not!ing loftier t!an a *ross, from w!i*! to *ontemplate t!e world# (!e pride and e3!ilaration of it were eyond *on*eit# 1et ea*! *ross, o**upied, ro ed t!e late-*omers of all ut t!e poor part of *opying- and t!e meanest of t!ings were t!ose done y e3ample# (!e virtue of sa*rifi*e lay wit!in t!e vi*tim?s soul# $onest redemption must !ave een free and *!ild-minded# '!en t!e e3piator was *ons*ious of t!e under-motives and t!e after-glory of !is a*t, ot! were wasted on !im# So t!e introspe*tive altruist appropriated a s!are wort!less, indeed !armful, to !imself, for !ad !e remained passive, !is *ross mig!t !ave een granted to an inno*ent# (o res*ue simple ones from su*! evil y paying for t!em !is *ompli*ated self would e avari*ious in t!e modern man# $e, t!oug!t-riddled, *ould not s!are t!eir elief in ot!ers? dis*!arge t!roug! !is agony, and t!ey, loo&ing on !im wit!out understanding, mig!t feel t!e s!ame w!i*! was t!e manly dis*iple?s lot- or mig!t fail to feel it, and in*ur t!e dou le punis!ment of ignoran*e# 8r was t!is s!ame, too, a self-a negation, to e admitted and admired for its own sa&eJ $ow was it rig!t to let men die e*ause t!ey did not understandJ %lindness and folly aping t!e way of rig!t were punis!ed more !eavily t!an purposed evil, at least in t!e present *ons*iousness and remorse of man alive# Comple3 men w!o &new !ow self-sa*rifi*e uplifted t!e redeemer and *ast down t!e oug!t, and w!o !eld a*& in !is &nowledge, mig!t so let a foolis! rot!er ta&e t!e pla*e of false no ility and its later awa&ened due of !eavier senten*e# (!ere seemed no straig!t wal&ing for us leaders in t!is *roo&ed lane of *ondu*t, ring wit!in ring of un&nown, s!amefa*ed motives *an*elling or dou le*!arging t!eir pre*edents# 1et . *annot put down my a*@uies*en*e in t!e Ara fraud to wea&ness of *!ara*ter or native !ypo*risy- t!oug! of *ourse . must !ave !ad some tenden*y, some aptitude, for de*eit, or . would not !ave de*eived men so well, and persisted two years in ringing to su**ess a de*eit w!i*! ot!ers !ad framed and set afoot# . !ad !ad no *on*ern wit! t!e Ara "evolt in t!e eginning# .n t!e end . was responsi le for its eing an em arrassment to t!e inventors# '!ere e3a*tly in t!e interim my guilt passed from a**essory to prin*ipal, upon w!at !eadings . s!ould e *ondemned, were not for me to say# Suffi*e it t!at sin*e t!e mar*! to A&a a . itterly repented my entanglement in t!e movement, wit! a itterness suffi*ient to *orrode my ina*tive !ours, ut insuffi*ient to ma&e me *ut myself *lear of it# $en*e t!e wo ling of my will, and endless, vapid *omplainings#

&()PTE" &I
Siddons flew me a*& to Guweira t!at evening, and in t!e nig!t at A&a a . told Dawnay, >ust arrived, t!at life was full, ut slipping smoot!ly# 0e3t morning we !eard y aeroplane !ow %u3ton?s for*e !ad fared at Mudowwara# (!ey de*ided to assault it efore dawn mainly y means of om ers, in t!ree parties, one to enter t!e station, t!e ot!er two for t!e main redou ts# A**ordingly, efore midnig!t w!ite tapes were laid as guides to t!e +ero point# (!e opening !ad een timed for a @uarter to four ut t!e way proved diffi*ult to find, so t!at daylig!t was almost upon t!em efore t!ings egan against t!e sout!ern redou t# After a num er of om s !ad urst in and a out it, t!e men rus!ed up and too& it easily--to find t!at t!e station party !ad a*!ieved t!eir end a moment efore# (!ese alarms roused t!e middle redou t, ut only for defeat# .ts men surrendered twenty minutes later# (!e nort!ern redou t, w!i*! !ad a gun, seemed etter-!earted and splas!ed its s!ot freely into t!e station yard, and at our troops# %u3ton, under *over of t!e sout!ern redou t, dire*ted t!e fire of %rodie?s guns w!i*!, wit! t!eir usual deli erate a**ura*y, sent in s!ell after s!ell# Siddons *ame over

in !is ma*!ines and om ed it, w!ile t!e Camel Corps from nort! and east and west su >e*ted t!e reastwor&s to severe 2ewis gun-fire# At seven in t!e morning t!e last of t!e enemy surrendered @uietly# 'e !ad lost four &illed and ten wounded# (!e (ur&s lost twenty-one &illed, and one !undred and fifty prisoners, wit! two field-guns and t!ree ma*!ine-guns# %u3ton at on*e set t!e (ur&s to getting steam on t!e pumping engine, so t!at !e *ould water !is *amels, w!ile men lew in t!e wells, and smas!ed t!e engine-pumps, wit! two t!ousand yards of rail# At dus&, *!arges at t!e foot of t!e great water-tower spattered it in single stones a*ross t!e plain%u3ton a moment later *alled ?'al&--mar*!A? to !is men, and t!e four-!undred *amels, rising li&e one and roaring li&e t!e day of >udgement, started off for /efer# Dawnay went up very rig!tly to A a el 2issan, to greet :eisal# Allen y !ad sent !im a*ross to give :eisal a warning message# $e was to eg !im to do not!ing ras!, as t!e %ritis! pus! was a *!an*e, and if it failed t!e Ara s would e on t!e wrong side of /ordan to e given !elp# ,arti*ularly, Allen y egged :eisal not to rus! upon Damas*us, ut to !old !is !and till events were surely favoura le# (!is very sound and proper *aution !ad *ome on my a**ount# 43asperated one nig!t at G#$#H#, . !ad lurted out t!at to me 1916 seemed t!e last *!an*e, and we would ta&e Damas*us, any!ow, w!atever !appened at Deraa or "amle!) sin*e it was etter to !ave ta&en it and lost it, t!an never to !ave ta&en it at all# :eisal smiled wisely at Dawnay?s !omily, and replied t!at !e would try t!is autumn for Damas*us t!oug! t!e !eavens fell, and, if t!e %ritis! were not a le to *arry t!eir s!are of t!e atta*&, !e would save !is own people y ma&ing separate pea*e wit! (ur&ey# $e !ad een long in tou*! wit! elements in (ur&ey, /emal ,as!a opening t!e *orresponden*e# %y instin*t, w!en so er, /emal was .slami*, and to !im t!e revolt of Me**a was a >udgement# $e was ready to do almost anyt!ing to *ompose su*! a rea*! in t!e fait!# $is letters were, for t!is reason, illuminating# :eisal sent t!em to Me**a and 4gypt, !oping t!at t!ey would read into t!em w!at we did- ut t!e points were ta&en literally, and we re*eived in>un*tion to reply t!at t!e sword was now our >udge# (!is was magnifi*ent) ut in war so ri*! a diat!eti*al opportunity *ould not e missed# (rue, t!at a**ommodation wit! /emal was not possi le# $e !ad lopped t!e tall !eads of Syria, and we s!ould deny our friends? lood if we admitted !im to our pea*e- ut y indi*ating t!is su tly in our reply we mig!t widen t!e national-*leri*al rift in (ur&ey# 8ur parti*ular targets were t!e anti-German se*tion of t!e General Staff, under Mustap!a ;emal, w!o were too &een on t!e (ur&is!ness? of t!eir mission to deny t!e rig!t of autonomy to t!e Ara i* provin*es of t!e 8ttoman 4mpire# A**ordingly, :eisal sent a*& tenden*ious answers) and t!e *orresponden*e *ontinued rilliantly# (!e (ur&is! soldiers egan to *omplain of t!e pietists, w!o put reli*s efore strategy# (!e 0ationalists wrote t!at :eisal was only putting into premature and disastrous a*tivity t!eir own *onvi*tions upon t!e >ust, inevita le self-determination of (ur&ey# ;nowledge of t!e ferment affe*ted /emal?s determination# At first we were offered autonomy for $e>a+# (!en Syria was admitted to t!e enefit- t!en Mesopotamia# :eisal seemed still not *ontent) so /emal?s deputy Bw!ile !is master was in ConstantinopleC oldly added a Crown to t!e offered s!are of $ussein of Me**a# 2astly, t!ey told us t!ey saw logi* in t!e *laim of t!e prop!et?s family to t!e spiritual leaders!ip of .slamA (!e *omi* side of t!e letters must not o s*ure t!eir real !elp in dividing t!e (ur&is! Staff# 8ldfas!ioned Moslems t!oug!t t!e S!erif an unpardona le sinner# Modernists t!oug!t !im a sin*ere ut impatient 0ationalist misled y %ritis! promises# (!ey !ad a desire to *orre*t !im rat!er y argument t!an y military defeat# (!eir strongest *ard was t!e Sy&es-,i*ot agreement, an old-style division of (ur&ey etween 4ngland, :ran*e, and "ussia, made pu li* y t!e Soviets# /emal read t!e more spiteful paragrap!s at a an@uet in %eyrout# :or a w!ile t!e dis*losure !urt us) >ustly, for we and t!e :ren*! !ad t!oug!t to plaster over a split in poli*y y a formula vague enoug! for ea*! to interpret in !is divergent way#

:ortunately, . !ad early etrayed t!e treaty?s e3isten*e to :eisal, and !ad *onvin*ed !im t!at !is es*ape was to !elp t!e %ritis! so mu*! t!at after pea*e t!ey would not e a le, for s!ame, to s!oot !im down in its fulfilment- w!ile, if t!e Ara s did as . intended, t!ere would e no one-sided tal& of s!ooting# . egged !im to trust not in our promises, li&e !is fat!er, ut in !is own strong performan*e# Conveniently, at t!is >un*ture t!e %ritis! Ca inet, in >oyous style, gave wit! t!e left !and also# (!ey promised to t!e Ara s, or rat!er to an unaut!ori+ed *ommittee of seven Got!amites in Cairo, t!at t!e Ara s s!ould &eep, for t!eir own, t!e territory t!ey *on@uered from (ur&ey in t!e war# (!e glad news *ir*ulated over Syria# (o !elp t!e down*ast (ur&s, and to s!ow us t!at it *ould give as many promises as t!ere were parties, t!e %ritis! finally *ountered do*ument A to t!e S!erif, % to t!eir Allies, C to t!e Ara Committee, y do*ument D to 2ord "ot!s*!ild, a new power, w!ose ra*e was promised somet!ing e@uivo*al in ,alestine# 8ld 0uri S!aalam, wrin&ling !is wise nose, returned to me wit! !is file of do*uments, as&ing in pu++lement w!i*! of t!em all !e mig!t elieve# As efore, . gli ly repeated, (!e last in date?, and t!e 4mir?s sense of t!e !onour of !is word made !im see t!e !umour# 4ver after !e did !is est for our >oint *ause, only warning me, w!en !e failed in a promise, t!at it !ad een superseded y a later intention# $owever, /emal went on !oping, !e eing an o stinate and ruffianly man# After Allen y?s defeat at Salt, !e sent down to us t!e 4mir Mo!ammed Said, rot!er of t!e egregious A d el ;adir# Mo!ammed Said, a low- rowed degenerate wit! a ad mout!, was as devious as !is rot!er, ut less rave# $e was very modest as !e stood efore :eisal and offered !im /emal?s pea*e# :eisal told !im t!at !e was *ome at an opportune moment# $e *ould offer /emal t!e loyal e!aviour of t!e Ara Army, if (ur&ey eva*uated Amman, and !anded over its provin*e to Ara &eeping# (!e seely Algerian, t!in&ing !e !ad s*ored a !uge su**ess, rus!ed a*& to Damas*us- w!ere /emal nearly !anged !im for !is pains# Mustafa ;emal, alarmed, egged :eisal not to play into /emal?s !ands, promising t!at w!en t!e Ara s were installed in t!eir *apital, t!e disaffe*ted in (ur&ey would rally to t!em, and use t!eir territory as a ase from w!i*! to atta*& 4nver and !is German allies in Anatolia# Mustafa !oped t!at t!e ad!esion of all (ur&is! for*es east of t!e (aurus would ena le him to mar*! dire*t on Constantinople# 4vents at t!e end made a ortive t!ese *ompli*ated negotiations, w!i*! were not dis*losed to 4gypt or to Me**a, e*ause of t!e disappointing issue of our first *onfiden*e# . feared t!at t!e %ritis! mig!t e s!a&en at :eisal?s t!us entertaining separate relations# 1et in fairness to t!e fig!ting Ara s, we *ould not *lose all avenues of a**ommodation wit! (ur&ey# .f t!e 4uropean war failed, it was t!eir only way out- and . !ad always t!e lur&ing fear t!at Great %ritain mig!t forestall :eisal and *on*lude its own separate pea*e, not wit! t!e 0ationalist, ut wit! t!e Conservative (ur&s# (!e %ritis! Government !ad gone very far in t!is dire*tion, wit!out informing !er smallest ally# 8ur information of t!e pre*ise steps, and of t!e proposals Bw!i*! would !ave een fatal to so many of t!e Ara s in arms on our sideC, *ame, not offi*ially, to me, ut privately# .t was only one of t!e twenty times in w!i*! friends !elped me more t!an did our Government- w!ose a*tion and silen*e were at on*e an e3ample, a spur and a li*en*e to me to do t!e li&e#

&()PTE" &II
After t!e pea*e-tal& we *ould set again to *lean wor&# /oy*e and myself de*ided upon anot!er of our >oint *ar e3*ursions, t!is time to A+ra&, to rea& trail so far towards Deraa# (!erefore we ran out to /efer to meet t!e vi*torious Camel Corps, w!o *ame gliding, in splendid trim and formal appearan*e, a*ross t!e s!ining flat >ust efore sunset, offi*ers and men delig!ted at t!eir Mudowwara su**ess, and t!eir freedom from orders and restraint in t!e desert# %u3ton said t!ey werefit to go anyw!ere# (!ey would rest two nig!ts and draw four days? rations from t!eir store, duly set out near Auda?s tent y 1oung?s *are# A**ordingly, on t!e morrow, early, /oy*e and . got into our tender, wit! t!e

resour*eful "olls to drive us, and ran easily into 'adi %air, at w!ose wells lay Alwain, Auda?s &insman, a smoot!-*!ee&ed, oppressed silent man) !iding, to possess !imself in pea*e far from Auda# 'e stopped only t!e few minutes to arrange wit! !im t!e safety of %u3ton?s men) and t!en drove out, wit! a young and very wild S!erari to !elp us find our way# $is *amel-training would not e@uip !im to road-pi*& for a five-ton armoured *ar- ut !is &nowing t!e tra*& mig!t serve ot!er *ars *oming up y t!emselves later # (!e plateau of 4r!a was good going, its flint openings interspersed wit! eds of !ard mud) and we devoured t!e fast miles into t!e s!allow !eads of 'adi /in+, well grown wit! pasture# (!ere, num ers of gra+ing *amels were eing driven an3iously toget!er y t!eir ragged !erdsmen of t!e A u (ayi, w!o, riding are!eaded, rifles in !and, were singing a war-*!ant# '!en t!ey !eard our roaring e3!austs t!ey rus!ed towards us, wit! urgent s!outs of mounted men seen lur&ing in t!e low grounds a!ead# 'e put t!e *ars in t!e dire*tion and after a little flus!ed five *amel-riders, w!o made off nort!wards at t!eir est# 'e ran t!em down in ten minutes# (!ey *ou*!ed t!eir *amels gra*efully and *ame to meet us as friends--t!e only role left t!em, sin*e na&ed men *ould not @uarrel wit! swifter men in armour# (!ey were /a+i $oweitat, undou ted ro ers, ut now all &indness, *rying loudly at t!e pleasure of meeting me !ere suddenly# . was a little s!ort, and ordered t!em a*& to t!eir tents at on*e# (!ey went off, *restfallen, westwards# 'e followed 9m ;!arug?s east an&, finding t!e way firm, ut slow, for t!ere were gutters of tri utaries to *ross) and we !ad to lay rus!wood fas*ines w!ere t!e old eds of t!e flood-water were soft or full of sand# (owards t!e end of t!e day t!e valleys grew t!i*& wit! tufted grass, gra+ing for our prospe*tive *aravans# .n t!e morning t!e nort!ern air and fres! wind of t!is desert were so *ool to us t!at we made a !ot rea&fast efore we *ran&ed up t!e *ars and purred over t!e meeting of 9m ;!arug and D!irwa, over t!e road asin of D!irwa itself, and past its imper*epti le water-parting into t!e /es!a# (!ese were s!allow systems running into Sir!an, y Amman, w!i*! . meant to visit) for if evil *ame to us at A+ra&, our ne3t refuge s!ould e Amman, if a**essi le to *ars# Su*! attalions of ?ifs? s&irmis!ed a out every new plan *ontinually# (!e nig!t?s rest !ad fres!ened "olls and Sanderson, and t!ey drove splendidly over t!e saffron ridge of t!e little /es!a into t!e great valley# .n t!e afternoon we saw t!e *!al& an&s, and turned down t!eir as!y slopes, into t!e Sir!an, >ust y t!e water-!oles# (!is made our retreat always safe, for no enemy would e mo ile enoug! to *lose ot! A+ra& and Amman at on*e to us# So we refilled our radiators wit! t!e !orri le water of t!e pool in w!i*! :arra> and Daud !ad played, and drew westward over t!e open ridges, until far enoug! from t!e wells to a*@uit raiding parties from t!e need to stum le on us in t!e dar&# (!ere /oy*e and . sat down and wat*!ed a sunset, w!i*! grew from grey to pin&, and to red) and t!en to a *rimson so intolera ly deep t!at we !eld our reat! in trepidation for some stro&e of flame or t!under to rea& its di++y stillness# (!e men, meanw!ile, *ut open tinned meats, oiled tea, and laid t!em out wit! is*uits on a lan&et for our supper ta le# Afterwards t!ere were more lan&ets, in w!i*! we slept lus*iously# 0e3t day we ran @ui*&ly a*ross t!e delta of G!adaf till we were out on t!e immense mud-flat w!i*! stret*!ed for seven miles, sout!ward and eastward, from t!e mars!es y t!e old *astle of A+ra&# (o-day t!e mirage lotted its limits for us wit! lurs of steely lue, w!i*! were t!e tamaris& ounds raised !ig! in t!e air and smoot!ed y !eat-vapour# . wanted t!e Me>a er springs, down w!ose treegrown ed we mig!t *reep unper*eived- so "olls made !is *ar leap forward in a palpitant rus! a*ross t!e great widt!# (!e eart! fell away in front of us, and a plume li&e a dust-devil waved along our tra*& e!ind# At t!e end t!e ra&es sang protestingly as we slowed into a young plantation of tamaris&, tall on !eaps of wind-*olle*ted sand# 'e twisted t!roug! t!em on t!e !ard, intervening soil, till tamaris& *eased, and damp sand, spe*&led wit! *lose t!orn- us!es, too& its pla*e# (!e *ars stopped e!ind t!e

!ummo*& of Ain el Assad, under *over of t!is !ig!-lipped *up of reeds, etween w!ose vivid stems t!e transparent water dripped li&e >ewels# 'e went gently up t!e &noll of graves over t!e great pools, and saw t!at t!e watering pla*es were empty# A mirage !ung over t!e open spa*es- ut !ere, w!ere t!e ground was us!ed, no !eatwaves *ould *olle*t, and t!e strong sunlig!t s!owed us t!e valley as *rystal *lear as its running waters, and deserted e3*ept y wild irds, and t!ese !erds of ga+elles, w!i*!, alarmed y t!e popple of our *losed e3!austs, were grouping timidly in preparation for flig!t# "olls drew !is tender past t!e "oman fis!-pond) we s&irted t!e western lava-field, along t!e now !ard, grass-grown swamp, to t!e lue walls of t!e silent fort, wit! its sil&en-sounding palms, e!ind w!ose stillness lay per!aps more fear t!an pea*e# . felt guilty at introdu*ing t!e t!ro ing *ar, and its trim *rew of &!a&i-*lad nort!erners, into t!e remoteness of t!is most !idden legendary pla*e- ut my anti*ipation went astray, for it was t!e men w!o loo&ed real and t!e a*&ground w!i*! e*ame s*enepainting# (!eir newness and *ertainty Bt!e Definiteness of %ritis! troops in uniformC did A+ra& greater !onour t!an plain loneliness# 'e stopped only a moment# /oy*e and . *lim ed t!e western tower, and agreed upon t!e manifold advantages of A+ra& as a wor&ing ase) t!oug!, to my sorrow, t!ere was no gra+ing !ere, so t!at we *ould not linger in it for t!e interval of our first and se*ond raids# (!en we *rossed to t!e nort!ern lo e of t!e mud-flat, a fit landing-ground for t!e aeroplanes w!i*! Siddons was adding to our flying *olumn# Amongst ot!er @ualities was its visi ility# 8ur ma*!ines flying two !undred miles to t!is, t!eir new ase, *ould not fail to see its ele*trum s!ield refle*ting t!e sunlig!t# 'e went a*& to Ain el Assad, w!ere t!e armoured *ar was, and led it at a faster pa*e out to t!e open flint desert on*e again# .t was mid-afternoon, and very !ot, espe*ially in t!e glowing metal of t!e steel-turreted *ar) ut t!e roiling drivers &ept at it, and efore sunset we were on t!e dividing ridge etween t!e /es!a valleys, to find a s!orter and easier way t!an our *oming# 0ig!t *aug!t us not far sout! of Ammari, and we *amped on t!e top of t!e *ountry, wit! a ree+e, very pre*ious after t!e listering day, *oming down to us s*ent-laden from t!e flowering slopes of /e el Druse# .t made us glad of t!e men?s !ot tea, and of t!e lan&ets wit! w!i*! we !ad softly padded t!e angles of t!e o3- ody# (!e trip was one delig!t to me, sin*e . !ad no responsi ility ut t!e road# Also t!ere was t!e spi*e of t!e refle*tions of t!e S!erari oy, refle*tions naturally *onfided to me, sin*e . alone wore !is sort of *lot!es, and spo&e !is diale*t# $e, poor out*ast, !ad never efore een treated as a *onsiderate t!ing, and was astonis!ed at t!e manners of t!e 4nglis!# 0ot on*e !ad !e een stru*& or even t!reatened# $e said t!at ea*! soldier *arried !imself apart li&e a family, and t!at !e felt somet!ing of defen*e in t!eir tig!t, insuffi*ient *lot!es and la orious appearan*e# $e was fluttering in s&irts, !ead-*lot! and *loa&# (!ey !ad only s!irts and s!orts, puttees and oots, and t!e ree+e *ould ta&e no !old on t!em# .ndeed, t!ey !ad worn t!ese t!ings so long day and nig!t in !eat and sweat, usied a out t!e dusty oily *ars, t!at t!e *lot! !ad set to t!eir odies, li&e ar& to a tree# (!en t!ey were all *lean-s!aven, and all dressed ali&e) and !is eye, w!i*! most often distinguis!ed man from man y *lot!es, !ere was affled y an outward uniformity# (o &now t!em apart !e must learn t!eir individual, as t!oug! na&ed, s!apes# (!eir food too& no *oo&ing, t!eir drin& was !ot, t!ey !ardly spo&e to one anot!er) ut t!en a word sent t!em into fits of in*ompre!ensi le *ra*&ling laug!ter, unwort!y and in!uman# $is elief was t!at t!ey were my slaves, and t!at t!ere was little rest or satisfa*tion in t!eir lives, t!oug! to a S!erari it would !ave een lu3ury so to travel li&e t!e wind, sitting down) and a privilege to eat meat, tinned meat, daily# .n t!e morning we !urried along our ridge, to rea*! %air in t!e afternoon# 9nfortunately t!ere were tyre-trou les# (!e armoured *ar was too !eavy for t!e flints, and always s!e san& in a little, ma&ing !eavy going on t!ird speed# (!is !eated up t!e *overs# 'e endured a ve3atious series of ursts, of stoppings to >a*& up and *!ange w!eel or tyre# (!e day was !ot and we were !urried, so t!at t!e

repeated levering and pumping wore t!in our tempers# At noon we rea*!ed t!e great spinal ridge to "as Mu!eiwir# . promised t!e sul&y drivers it would e splendid going# And it was# 'e all too& new !eart, even t!e tyres stood etter, w!ile we rus!ed along t!e winding ridge, swinging in long *urves from east to west and a*& again, loo&ing now to t!e left over t!e s!allow valleys trending towards Sir!an, now to t!e rig!t as far as t!e $e>a+ "ailway# Gleaming spe*&s in t!e !a+e of distan*e were its w!ite stations lit y t!e pouring sun# .n late afternoon we rea*!ed t!e end of t!e ridge, dipped into t!e !ollow and roared at forty miles an !our up t!e reast of $adi# Dar&ness was near as we *ut a*ross t!e furrows of Ausa>i to %air wells, w!ere t!e valley was alive wit! fires) %u3ton, Mars!all and t!e Camel Corps were pit*!ing *amp, after two easy mar*!es from 4l /efer# (!ere was !eart urning among t!em, for %air !ad still only two wells, and ot! were eset# At one t!e $oweitat and %eni Sa&!r were drawing for si3 !undred of t!eir *amels, t!irsty from t!e pastures a day?s >ourney to t!e sout!-east, and at t!e ot!er was a mo of a t!ousand Druses and Syrian refugees, Damas*us mer*!ants and Armenians, on t!eir way to A&a a# (!ese un!andy travellers *luttered up our a**ess to t!e water wit! t!eir noisy struggles# 'e sat down wit! %u3ton in a *oun*il of war# 1oung !ad duly sent to %air fourteen days? rations for man and east# 8f t!is t!ere remained eig!t days for t!e men, ten for t!e animals# (!e *amel-drivers of t!e supply *olumn, driven forward only y 1oung?s strong will, !ad left /efer !alf-mutinous wit! fear of t!e desert# (!ey !ad lost, stolen or sold t!e rest of %u3ton?s stores upon t!eir way# . suspe*ted t!e *omplaining Armenians, ut not!ing *ould e re*overed from t!em, and we !ad to ad>ust t!e plan to its new *onditions# %u3ton purged !is *olumn of every inessential, w!ile . *ut down t!e two armoured *ars to one, and *!anged t!e route#

&()PTE" &III
2a+ily and mildly . !elped t!e Camel Corps in t!eir long watering at t!e forty-foot wells, and en>oyed t!e &indness of %u3ton and !is t!ree !undred fellows# (!e valley seemed alive wit! t!em) and t!e $oweitat, w!o !ad never imagined t!ere were so many 4nglis! in t!e world, *ould not !ave t!eir fill of staring# . was proud of my &ind, for t!eir dapper possession and t!e orderly usy-ness of t!eir selfappointed la our# %eside t!em t!e Ara s loo&ed strangers in Ara ia) also %u3ton?s tal& was a >oy, as !e was understanding, well read and old) t!oug! mostly !e was engaged in preparing for t!e long for*ed mar*!# A**ordingly . spent !ours apart y myself, ta&ing sto*& of w!ere . stood, mentally, on t!is my t!irtiet! irt!day# .t *ame to me @ueerly !ow, four years ago, . !ad meant to e a general and &nig!ted, w!en t!irty# Su*! temporal dignities Bif . survived t!e ne3t four wee&sC were now in my grasp--only t!at my sense of t!e falsity of t!e Ara position !ad *ured me of *rude am ition- w!ile it left me my *raving for good repute among men# (!is *raving made me profoundly suspe*t my trut!fulness to myself# 8nly too good an a*tor *ould so impress !is favoura le opinion# $ere were t!e Ara s elieving me, Allen y and Clayton trusting me, my odyguard dying for me- and . egan to wonder if all esta lis!ed reputations were founded, li&e mine, on fraud# (!e praise-wages of my a*ting !ad now to e a**epted# Any protestation of t!e trut! from me was *alled modesty, self depre*iation) and *!arming--for men were always fond to elieve a romanti* tale# .t irritated me, t!is silly *onfusion of s!yness, w!i*! was *ondu*t, wit! modesty, w!i*! was a point of view# . was not modest, ut as!amed of my aw&wardness, of my p!ysi*al envelope, and of my solitary unli&eness w!i*! made me no *ompanion, ut an a*@uaintan*e, *omplete, angular, un*omforta le, as a *rystal# 'it! men . !ad a sense always of eing out of dept!# (!is led to ela oration--t!e vi*e of amateurs

tentative in t!eir arts# As my war was overt!oug!t, e*ause . was not a soldier, so my a*tivity was overwroug!t, e*ause . was not a man of a*tion# (!ey were intensely *ons*ious efforts, wit! my deta*!ed self always eyeing t!e performan*e from t!e wings in *riti*ism# (o e added to t!is attitude were t!e *ross-strains of !unger, fatigue, !eat or *old, and t!e eastliness of living among t!e Ara s# (!ese made for a normality# .nstead of fa*ts and figures, my note oo&s were full of states of mind, t!e reveries and self-@uestioning indu*ed or edu*ed y our situations, e3pressed in a stra*t words to t!e dot ted r!yt!m of t!e *amels? mar*!ing# 8n t!is irt!day in %air, to satisfy my sense of sin*erity, . egan to disse*t my eliefs and motives, groping a out in my own pit*!y dar&ness# (!is self-distrusting s!yness !eld a mas&, often a mas& of indifferen*e or flippan*y, efore my fa*e, and pu++led me# My t!oug!ts *lawed, wondering, at t!is apparent pea*e, &nowing t!at it was only a mas&) e*ause, despite my trying never to dwell on w!at was interesting, t!ere were moments too strong for *ontrol w!en my appetite urst out and frig!tened me# . was very *ons*ious of t!e undled powers and entities wit!in me) it was t!eir *!ara*ter w!i*! !id# (!ere was my *raving to e li&ed--so strong and nervous t!at never *ould . open myself friendly to anot!er# (!e terror of failure in an effort so important made me s!rin& from trying) esides, t!ere was t!e standard) for intima*y seemed s!ameful unless t!e ot!er *ould ma&e t!e perfe*t reply, in t!e same language, after t!e same met!od, for t!e same reasons# (!ere was a *raving to e famous) and a !orror of eing &nown to li&e eing &nown# Contempt for my passion for distin*tion made me refuse every offered !onour# . *!eris!ed my independen*e almost as did a %eduin, ut my impoten*e of vision s!owed me my s!ape est in painted pi*tures, and t!e o li@ue over!eard remar&s of ot!ers est taug!t me my *reated impression# (!e eagerness to over!ear and oversee myself was my assault upon my own inviolate *itadel# (!e lower *reation . avoided, as a refle*tion upon our failure to attain real intelle*tuality# .f t!ey for*ed t!emselves on me . !ated t!em# (o put my !and on a living t!ing was defilement) and it made me trem le if t!ey tou*!ed me or too& too @ui*& an interest in me# (!is was an atomi* repulsion, li&e t!e inta*t *ourse of a snowfla&e# (!e opposite would !ave een my *!oi*e if my !ead !ad not een tyrannous# . !ad a longing for t!e a solutism of women and animals, and lamented myself most w!en . saw a soldier wit! a girl, or a man fondling a dog, e*ause my wis! was to e as superfi*ial, as perfe*ted) and my >ailer !eld me a*&# Always feelings and illusion were at war wit!in me, reason strong enoug! to win, ut not strong enoug! to anni!ilate t!e van@uis!ed, or refrain from li&ing t!em etter) and per!aps t!e truest &nowledge of love mig!t e to love w!at self despised# 1et . *ould only wis! to- *ould see !appiness in t!e suprema*y of t!e material, and *ould not surrender to it- *ould try to put my mind to sleep t!at suggestion mig!t low t!roug! me freely) and remained itterly awa&e# . li&ed t!e t!ings underneat! me and too& my pleasures and adventures downward# (!ere seemed a *ertainty in degradation, a final safety# Man *ould rise to any !eig!t, ut t!ere was an animal level eneat! w!i*! !e *ould not fall# .t was a satisfa*tion on w!i*! to rest# (!e for*e of t!ings, years and an artifi*ial dignity, denied it me more and more) ut t!ere endured t!e after-taste of li erty from one yout!ful su merged fortnig!t in ,ort Said, *oaling steamers y day wit! ot!er out*asts of t!ree *ontinents and *urling up y nig!t to sleep on t!e rea&water y De 2esseps, w!ere t!e sea surged past# (rue t!ere lur&ed always t!at 'ill uneasily waiting to urst out# My rain was sudden and silent as a wild *at, my senses li&e mud *logging its feet, and my self B*ons*ious always of itself and its s!ynessC telling t!e east it was ad form to spring and vulgar to feed upon t!e &ill# So mes!ed in nerves and !esitation, it *ould not e a t!ing to e afraid of) yet it was a real east, and t!is oo& its mangy s&in, dried, stuffed and set up s@uarely for men to stare at# . @ui*&ly outgrew ideas# So . distrusted e3perts, w!o were often intelligen*es *onfined wit!in !ig!

walls, &nowing indeed every paving-stone of t!eir prison *ourts- w!ile . mig!t &now from w!at @uarry t!e stones were !ewn and w!at wages t!e mason earned# . gainsaid t!em out of *arelessness, for . !ad found materials always apt to serve a purpose, and 'ill a sure guide to some one of t!e many roads leading from purpose to a*!ievement# (!ere was no fles!# Many t!ings . !ad pi*&ed up, dallied wit!, regarded, and laid down) for t!e *onvi*tion of doing was not in me# :i*tion seemed more solid t!an a*tivity# Self-see&ing am itions visited me, ut not to stay, sin*e my *riti*al self would ma&e me fastidiously re>e*t t!eir fruits# Always . grew to dominate t!ose t!ings into w!i*! . !ad drifted, ut in none of t!em did . voluntarily engage# .ndeed, . saw myself a danger to ordinary men, wit! su*! *apa*ity yawing rudderles s at t!eir disposal# . followed and did not institute) indeed, !ad no desire even to follow# .t was only wea&ness w!i*! delayed me from mind-sui*ide, some slow tas& to *!o&e at lengt! t!is furna*e in my rain# . !ad developed ideas of ot!er men, and !elped t!em, ut !ad never *reated a t!ing of my own, sin*e . *ould not approve *reation# '!en ot!er men *reated, . would serve and pat*! to ma&e it as good as mig!t e) for, if it were sinful to *reate, it must e sin and s!ame added to !ave *reated one-eyed or !alt# Always in wor&ing . !ad tried to serve, for t!e s*rutiny of leading was too prominent# Su >e*tion to order a*!ieved e*onomy of t!oug!t, t!e painful, and was a *old-storage for *!ara*ter and 'ill, leading painlessly to t!e o livion of a*tivity# .t was a part of my failure never to !ave found a *!ief to use me# All of t!em, t!roug! in*apa*ity or timidity or li&ing, allowed me too free a !and) as if t!ey *ould not see t!at voluntary slavery was t!e deep pride of a mor id spirit, and vi*arious pain its gladdest de*oration# .nstead of t!is, t!ey gave me li*en*e, w!i*! . a used in insipid indulgen*e# 4very or*!ard fit to ro must !ave a guardian, dogs, a !ig! wall, ar ed wire# 8ut upon >oyless impunityA :eisal was a rave, wea&, ignorant spirit, trying to do wor& for w!i*! only a genius, a prop!et or a great *riminal, was fitted# . served !im out of pity, a motive w!i*! degraded us ot!# Allen y *ame nearest to my longings for a master, ut . !ad to avoid !im, not daring to ow down for fear lest !e s!ow feet of *lay wit! t!at friendly word w!i*! must s!atter my allegian*e# 1et, w!at an idol t!e man was to us, prismati* wit! t!e unmi3ed self-standing @uality of greatness, instin*t and *ompa*t wit! it# (!ere were @ualities li&e *ourage w!i*! *ould not stand alone, ut must e mi3ed wit! a good or ad medium to appear# Greatness in Allen y s!owed itself ot!er, in *ategory- self-suffi*ient, a fa*et of *!ara*ter, not of intelle*t# .t made superfluous in !im ordinary @ualities) intelligen*e, imagination, a*uteness, industry, loo&ed silly eside !im# $e was not to e >udged y our standards, any more t!an t!e s!arpness of ow of a liner was to e >udged y t!e s!arpness of ra+ors# $e dispensed wit! t!em y !is inner power# (!e !earing ot!er people praised made me despair >ealously of myself, for . too& it at its fa*e value) w!ereas, !ad t!ey spo&en ten times as well of me, . would !ave dis*ounted it to not!ing# . was a standing *ourt martial on myself, inevita ly, e*ause to me t!e inner springs of a*tion were are wit! t!e &nowledge of e3ploited *!an*e# (!e *redita le must !ave een t!oug!t out efore!and, foreseen, prepared, wor&ed for# (!e self, &nowing t!e detriment, was for*ed into depre*iation y ot!ers? un*riti*al praise# .t was a revenge of my trained !istori*al fa*ulty upon t!e eviden*e of pu li* >udgement, t!e lowest *ommon denominator to t!ose w!o &new, ut from w!i*! t!ere was no appeal e*ause t!e world was wide# '!en a t!ing was in my rea*!, . no longer wanted it) my delig!t lay in t!e desire# 4veryt!ing w!i*! my mind *ould *onsistently wis! for was attaina le, as wit! all t!e am itions of all sane men, and w!en a desire gained !ead, . used to strive until . !ad >ust to open my !and and ta&e it# (!en . would turn away, *ontent t!at it !ad een wit!in my strengt!# . soug!t only to assure myself, and *ared not a >ot to ma&e t!e ot!ers &now it# (!ere was a spe*ial attra*tion in eginnings, w!i*! drove me into everlasting endeavour to free my personality from a**retions and pro>e*t it on a fres! medium, t!at my *uriosity to see its na&ed s!adow mig!t e fed# (!e invisi le self appeared to e refle*ted *learest in t!e still water of anot!er

man?s yet in*urious mind# Considered >udgements, w!i*! !ad in t!em of t!e past and t!e future, were wort!less *ompared wit! t!e revealing first sig!t, t!e instin*tive opening or *losing of a man as !e met t!e stranger# Mu*! of my doing was from t!is egoisti* *uriosity# '!en in fres! *ompany, . would em ar& on little wanton pro lems of *ondu*t, o serving t!e impa*t of t!is or t!at approa*! on my !earers, treating fellow-men as so many targets for intelle*tual ingenuity- until . *ould !ardly tell my own self w!ere t!e leg-pulling egan or ended# (!is pettiness !elped to ma&e me un*omforta le wit! ot!er men, lest my w!im drive me suddenly to *olle*t t!em as trop!ies of mar&smans!ip) also t!ey were interested in so mu*! w!i*! my self-*ons*iousness re>e*ted# (!ey tal&ed of food and illness, games and pleasures, wit! me, w!o felt t!at to re*ogni+e our possession of odies was degradation enoug!, wit!out enlarging upon t!eir failings and attri utes# . would feel s!ame for myself at seeing t!em wallow in t!e p!ysi*al w!i*! *ould e only a glorifi*ation of man?s *ross# .ndeed, t!e trut! was . did not li&e t!e ?myself . *ould see and !ear#

&()PTE" &I+
. !ad rea*!ed t!is useful stage w!en t!ere was a distur an*e from t!e (owei!a tents# S!outing men ran towards in*# . pulled myself toget!er to appease a fig!t etween t!e Ara s and t!e Camel Corps, ut instead it was an appeal for !elp against a S!ammar raid two !ours sin*e, away y t!e Snainirat# 4ig!ty *amels !ad een driven off# 0ot to seem w!olly ungra*ious, . put on our spare *amels t!e four or five of my men w!ose friends or relatives !ad suf fered, and sent t!em off# %u3ton and !is men started in t!e mid-afternoon w!ile . delayed till evening, seeing my men load our si3 t!ousand pounds of gun-*otton on t!e t!irty 4gyptian pa*&-*amels# My disgusted odyguard were for t!is ride to lead or drive t!e e3plosives? train# 'e !ad >udged t!at %u3ton would sleep >ust s!ort of t!e $adi, so we rode t!it!er- ut saw no *ampfire, nor was t!e tra*& trodden# 'e loo&ed over t!e *rest of t!e ridge, into a itter nort! wind *oming off $ermon into our flustered fa*es# (!e slopes eyond were la*& and silent, and to us towndwellers, a**ustomed to t!e ree& of smo&e, or sweat, or t!e ferment of soil fres!ly dug, t!ere was somet!ing sear*!ing, dis@uieting, almost dangerous, in t!e steely desert wind# So we turned a*& a few pa*es, and id under t!e lip of t!e ridge to sleep *omforta lyin its *loistered air# .n t!e morning we loo&ed out a*ross fifty miles of lan& *ountry, and wondered at t!is missing our *ompanions- ut Da!er s!outed suddenly from t!e $adi side, seeing t!eir *olumn winding up from t!e sout!-east# (!ey !ad early lost t!e tra*& and *amped till dawn# My men >ested wit! !umour against S!ei&! Slae!, t!eir guide, as one w!o *ould lose !is road etween t!e (!lait!u&!wat and %air- >ust li&e one mig!t say etween t!e Mar leAr*! and 83ford Cir*us# $owever, it was a perfe*t morning, wit! t!e sun !ot on our a*&s, and t!e wind fres! in our fa*es# (!e Camel Corps strode splendidly past t!e frosted tips of t!e t!ree pea&s into t!e green dept!s of D!irwa# (!ey loo&ed different from t!e stiff, respe*tful *ompanies w!i*! !ad rea*!ed A&a a, for %u3ton?s supple rain and friendly o servation !ad ta&en in t!e e3perien*e of irregular fig!ting, and revised t!eir training rules for t!e new needs# $e !ad *!anged t!eir *olumn formation, rea&ing its formal su division of two !ard *ompanies- !e !ad *!anged t!e order of mar*!, so t!at, instead of t!eir old imma*ulate lines, t!ey *ame *lotted, in groups w!i*! split up or drew toget!er wit!out delay upon ea*! variation of road or ground surfa*e# $e !ad redu*ed t!e loads and re!ung t!em, t!ere y lengt!ening t!e *amels? pa*e and daily mileage# $e !ad *ut into t!eir infantry system of *lo*&wor& !alts every so often Bto let t!e *amels staleAC and grooming was less !onoured# .n t!e old days, t!ey !ad prin&ed t!eir animals, *osseting t!em li&e ,e&inese, and ea*! !alt !ad een lig!tened y a noisy flapping massage of t!e easts? stripped !umps wit! t!e saddle- lan&et) w!ereas now t!e spare time was spent in gra+ing# Conse@uently, our .mperial Camel Corps !ad e*ome rapid, elasti*, enduring, silent) e3*ept w!en

t!ey mounted y num ers, for t!en t!e t!ree !undred !e-*amels would roar in *on*ert, giving out a wave of sound audi le miles a*ross t!e nig!t# 4a*! mar*! saw t!em more wor&manli&e, more at !ome on t!e animals, toug!er, leaner, faster# (!ey e!aved li&e oys on !oliday, and t!e easy mi3ing of offi*ers and men made t!eir atmosp!ere delig!tful# My *amels were roug!t up to wal& in Ara fas!ion, t!at ent-&need gait wit! mu*! swinging of t!e fetlo*&, t!e stride a little longer and a little @ui*&er t!an t!e normal# %u3ton?s *amels strolled along at t!eir native pa*e, unaffe*ted y t!e men on t!eir a*&s, w!o were &ept from dire*t *onta*t wit! t!em y iron-s!od oots and y t!eir wood and steel Man*!es ter-made saddles# Conse@uently, t!oug! . started ea*! stage alongside %u3ton in t!e van, . forged steadily in front wit! my five attendants) espe*ially w!en . rode my %a!a, t!e immensely tall, large- oned, upstanding east, w!o got !er name from t!e leat-voi*e for*ed on !er y a ullet t!roug! t!e *!in# S!e was very finely red, ut ad-tempered, !alf a wild *amel, and !ad never patien*e for an ordinary wal&# .nstead, wit! !ig! nose and wind-stirred !air, s!e would >ig along in an uneasy dan*e, !ateful to my Ageyl for it strained t!eir tender loins, ut to me not unamusing# .n t!is fas!ion we would gain t!ree miles on t!e %ritis!, loo& for a plot of grass or >ui*y t!orns, !e in t!e warm fres!ness of air, and let our easts gra+e w!ile we were overta&en) and a eautiful sig!t t!e Camel Corps would e as it *ame up# (!roug! t!e mirage of !eat w!i*! fli*&ered over t!e s!ining flint-stones of t!e ridge we would see, at first, only t!e &notted rown mass of t!e *olumn, swaying in t!e !a+e# As it grew nearer t!e masses used to divide into little groups, w!i*! swung) parting and rea&ing into one anot!er# At last, w!en *lose to us, we would distinguis! t!e individual riders, li&e great water- irds reast-deep in t!e silver mirage, wit! %u3ton?s at!leti*, splendidly-mounted figure leadin g !is sun urnt, laug!ing, &!a&i men# .t was odd to see !ow diversely t!ey rode# Some sat naturally, despite t!e *lumsy saddle) somepus!ed out t!eir !inder-parts, and leaned forward li&e Ara villagers) ot!ers lolled in t!e saddle as if t!ey were Australians riding !orses# My men, >udging y t!e loo&, were in*lined to s*off# . told t!em !ow from t!at t!ree !undred . would pi*& forty fellows w!o would out-ride, out-fig!t and out-suffer any forty men in :eisal?s army# At noon, y "as Mu!eiwer, we !alted an !our or two, for t!oug! t!e !eat to-day was less t!an in 4gypt in August, %u3ton did not wis! to drive !is men t!roug! it wit!out a rea&# (!e *amels were loosed out, w!ile we lay and lun*!ed and tried to sleep, defying t!e multitude of flies w!i*! !ad mar*!ed wit! us from %air in *olonies on our sweaty a*&s# Meanw!ile, my odyguard passed t!roug!, grum ling at t!eir indignity of aggage driving, ma&ing elieve never to !ave een so s!amed efore, and praying profanely t!at t !e world would not !ear of my tyranny to t!em# (!eir sorrow was dou led sin*e t!e aggage animals were Somali *amels, w!ose greatest speed was a out t!ree miles an !our# %u3ton?s for*e mar*!ed nearly four, myself more t!an five, so t!at t!e mar*!es were for t!e Gaagi and !is forty t!ieves a torment of slowness, modified only y aul&ing *amels, or displa*ed loads# 'e a used t!eir *lumsiness, *aning t!em drovers and *oolies, offering to uy t!eir goods w!en t!ey *ame to mar&et) till perfor*e t!ey laug!ed at t!eir plig!t# After t!e first day t!ey &ept up wit! us y lengt!ening t!e mar*! into t!e nig!t Bonly a little, for t!ese op!t!almia-stri*&en rutes were lind in t!e dar&C and y stealing from t!e rea&fast and midday !alts# (!ey roug!t t!eir *aravan t!roug! wit!out losing one of all t!eir *!arges) a fine performan*e for su*! gilded gentlemen) only possi le e*ause under t!eir gilt t!ey were t!e est *amel-masters for !ire in Ara ia# (!at nig!t we slept in G!adaf# (!e armoured *ar overtoo& us as we !alted, its delig!ted S!erari guide grinning in triump! on t!e turret lid# An !our or two later t!e Gaagi arrived, reporting all up and well# $e egged t!at %u3ton s!ould not &ill, dire*tly in t!e road, su*! *amels as ro&e down on t!e mar*!) for !is men made ea*! su**essive *ar*ase e3*use for a feast and a delay# A dulla was trou led to understand w!y t!e %ritis! s!ot t!eir a andoned easts# . pointed out !ow we

Ara s s!ot one anot!er if adly wounded in attle) ut A dulla retorted it was to save us from eing so tortured t!at we mig!t do ourselves s!ame# $e elieved t!ere was !ardly a man alive w!o would not *!oose a gradual deat! of wea&ness in t!e desert, rat!er t!an a sudden *utting off) indeed, in !is >udgement, t!e slowest deat! was t!e most mer*iful of all, sin*e a sen*e of !ope would prevent t!e itterness of a losing fig!t, and leave t!e man?s nature untrammelled to *ompose itself and !im into t!e mer*y of God# 8ur 4nglis! argument, t!at it was &inder to &ill @ui*&ly anyt!ing e3*ept a man, !e would not ta&e seriously#

&()PTE" &+
8ur morrow was li&e t!e day efore, a steady grind of forty miles# 0e3t day was t!e last efore t!e ridge-effort# . too& !alf of my men from t!e aggage train, and t!rew t!em forward on our line of mar*!, to *rown ea*! !ill-top# (!is was well done, ut did not profit us, for in mid-morning, wit! Muaggar, our am us!, in full sig!t, we were mar*!ing strongly and !opefully w!en a (ur&is! aeroplane *ame from t!e sout!, flew t!e lengt! of our *olumn, and went down, efore us, into Amman# 'e plodded !eavily into Muaggar y noon, and !id in t!e su stru*tures of t!e "oman templeplatform# 8ur wat*!ers too& post on t!e *rest, loo&ing out over t!e !arvested plains to t!e $e>a+ "ailway# 8ver t!ese !ill-slopes, as we stared t!roug! our glasses, t!e grey stones seemed to line out li&e flo*&s of gra+ing s!eep# 'e sent my peasants into t!e villages elow us, to get news, and warn t!e people to &eep wit!in doors# (!ey returned to say t!at *!an*e was fig!ting against us# "ound t!e winnowed *orn upon t!e t!res!ing floors stood (ur&is! soldiers, for t!e ta3-gat!erers were measuring t!e !eaps under guard of se*tions of mounted infantry# (!ree su*! troops, forty men, lay for t!is nig!t in t!e t!ree villages nearest t!e great ridge--villages t!roug! w!ose pre*in*ts we must ne*essarily go and *ome# 'e !eld a !urried *oun*il# (!e aeroplane !ad or !ad not seen us# .t would *ause, at worst, t!e strengt!ening of t!e ridge-guard, ut . !ad little fear of its effe*t# (!e (ur&s would elieve we were t!e advan*e-guard of a t!ird raid on Amman, and were more li&ely to *on*entrate t!an to deta*! troops# %u3ton?s men were great fig!ters, !e !ad laid admira le plans# Su**ess was *ertain# (!e dou t was a out t!e ridge?s *ost, or rat!er as to its value in %ritis! life, !aving regard to %art!olomew?s pro!i ition of *asualties# (!e presen*e of t!ese mule-riders meant t!at our retreat would not e unen*um ered# (!e *amel *orps were to dismount nearly a mile from t!e ridge Bt!eir noisy *amelsAC and advan*e on foot# (!e noise of t!eir assault, not to spea& of t!e firing of t!ree tons of gun-*otton against t!e ridge-piers, would wa&e up t!e distri*t# (!e (ur&is! patrols in t!e villages mig!t stum le on our *amel-par&--a disaster for us--or, at least, would !amper us in t!e ro&en ground, as we retired# %u3ton?s men *ould not s*atter li&e a swarm of irds, after t!e ridge e3plosion, to find t!eir own way a*& to t!e Muaggar# .n any nig!t-fig!ting some would e *ut off and lost# 'e s!ould !ave to wait for t!em, possi ly losing more in t!e usiness# (!e w!ole *ost mig!t e fifty men, and . put t!e wort! of t!e ridge at less t!an five# .ts destru*tion was so to frig!ten and distur t!e (ur&s, t!at t!ey would leave us alone till August t!e t!irtiet! w!en our long *olumn set out for A+ra&# (o-day was t!e twentiet!# (!e danger !ad seemed pressing in /uly, ut was now nearly over# %u3ton agreed# 'e de*ided to *ry off, and move a*& at on*e# At t!e moment more (ur&is! ma*!ines got up from Amman and @uartered t!e roug! !ills nort!ward from Muaggar, loo&ing for us# (!e men groaned in disappointment w!en t!ey !eard t!e *!ange# (!ey !ad set pride on t!is long raid, and were urning to tell in*redulous 4gypt t!at t!eir programme !ad een literally fulfilled# (o gain w!at we *ould, . sent Sale! and t!e ot!er *!iefs down to spru*e t!eir people wit! tall rumours of our num ers, and our *oming as t!e re*onnaissan*e of :eisal?s army, to *arry Amman y assault in

t!e new moon# (!is was t!e story t!e (ur&s feared to learn- t!e operation t!ey imagined- t!e stro&e t!ey dreaded# (!ey pus!ed *avalry *autiously into Muaggar, and found *onfirmation of t!e wild tales of t!e villagers, for t!e !ill-top was littered wit! empty meat tins, and t!e valley slopes *ut up y t!e deep tra*&s of enormous *ars# <ery many tra*&s t!ere wereA (!is alarm *!e*&ed t!em, and, at a loodless pri*e for us, &ept t!em !overing a wee&# (!e destru*tion of t!e ridge would !ave gained us a fortnig!t# 'e waited till dus& was t!i*&, and t!en rode off for A+ra&, fifty miles away# 'e pretended t!at t!e raid was e*ome a tour, and tal&ed of "oman remains and of G!assanide !unting-pla*es# (!e Camel Corps !ad a pra*ti*e, almost a !a it, of nig!t->ourneys, so t!at t!eir pa*e was as y day, and units never strayed nor lost tou*!# (!ere was a rilliant moon and we mar*!ed till it was pale in t!e morning, passing t!e lone pala*e of ;!arane! a out midnig!t, too *areless to turn aside and see its strangeness# ,art- lame for t!is lay on t!e moon, w!ose w!iteness made our minds as fro+en and s!adowless as itself, so t!at we sat still in our saddles, >ust sitting still# At first . feared lest we en*ounter Ara raiders, w!o mig!t !ave atta*&ed t!e Camel Corps in ignoran*e) so . put forward wit! my men some !alf-mile efore t!e *olumn# As we slipped on, gradually we e*ame aware of nig!t- irds, flying up from under our feet in num ers, la*& and large# (!ey in*reased, till it seemed as t!oug! t!e eart! was *arpeted in irds, so t!i*&ly did t!ey start up, ut in dead silen*e, and di++ily, w!eeling a out us in *ir*les, li&e feat!ers in a soundless w!irl of wind# (!e weaving *urves of t!eir mad flig!t spun into my rain# (!eir num er and @uietness terrified my men, w!o unslung t!eir rifles, and las!ed ullet after ullet into t!e flutter# After two miles t!e nig!t e*ame empty again) and at last we lay down and slept in t!e fragrant wormwood, till t!e sun roused us out# .n t!e afternoon, tired, we *ame to ;usair el Amra, t!e little !unting lodge of $arit!, t!e S!ep!erd ;ing, a patron of poets) it stood eautifully against its a*&ground of os&y rustling trees# %u3ton put !ead@uarters in t!e *ool dus& of its !all, and we lay t!ere pu++ling out t!e worn fres*oes of t!e wall, wit! more laug!ter t!an moral profit# 8f t!e men, some s!eltered t!emselves in ot!er rooms, most, wit! t!e *amels, stret*!ed t!emselves eneat! t!e trees, for a slum erous afternoon and evening# (!e aeroplanes !ad not found us--*ould not find us !ere# (o-morrow t!ere was A+ra&, and fres! water to repla*e t!is stuff of %air w!i*!, wit! t!e passing days, was getting too tasty for our li&ing# Also A+ra& was a famous pla*e, @ueen of t!ese oases, more eautiful t!an Amru!, wit! its verdure and running springs# . !ad promised everyone a at!e) t!e 4nglis!men, not was!ed sin*e A&a a, were longing towards it# Meanw!ile, Amru! was wonderful# (!ey as&ed me wit! astonis!ment w!o were t!ese ;ings of G!assan wit! t!e unfamiliar !alls and pi*tures# . *ould tell t!em vague tales of t!eir poetry, and *ruel wars- ut it seemed so distant and tinselled an age# 0e3t day we wal&ed gently to A+ra&# '!en we were over t!e last ridge of lava-pe les and saw t!e ring of t!e Me>a ar graves, t!at most eautifully put of *emeteries, . trotted forward wit! my men, to e sure against a**ident in t!e pla*e, and to feel again its remoteness efore t!e ot!ers *ame# (!ese soldiers seemed so se*ure t!at . dreaded lest A+ra& lose its rareness and e drawn a*& to t!e tide of life w!i*! !ad left it a t!ousand years ago# $owever, ot! fears were silly# A+ra& was empty of Ara s, eautiful as ever, and even more eautiful a little later w!en its s!ining pools were rilliant wit! t!e w!ite odies of our men swimming, and t!e slow drift of t!e wind t!roug! its reeds was pointed y t!eir gay s!outs and splas!ing e*!oed off t!e water# 'e made a great pit, and uried our tons of gun-*otton, for t!e Deraa e3pedition in Septem er) and t!en roamed a out *olle*ting t!e s*arlet sweet-water- erry of t!e Saa us!es# ?S!erari grapes? my followers, indulgent to our *apri*e, *alled t!em# 'e rested t!ere two days, t!e refres!ment of t!e pools eing so great# %u3ton rode wit! me to t!e fort, to e3amine t!e altar of Dio*letian and Ma3imian, meaning to add a word in favour of ;ing George t!e :ift!) ut our stay was poisoned y t!e grey flies, and t!en ruined y a tragi* a**ident# An Ara , s!ooting fis! in t!e fort pool, dropped !is rifle, w!i*! e3ploded and &illed instantly 2ieutenant

"owan, of t!e S*ottis! $orse# 'e uried !im in t!e little Me>a er graveyard, w!ose spotless @uiet !ad long een my envy# 8n t!e t!ird day we mar*!ed past Ammari, a*ross /es!a to near t!e (!lait!u&!wat, t!e old *ountry w!ose almost imper*epti le variations . !ad *ome to &now# %y t!e $adi we felt at !ome, and made a nig!t-mar*!, t!e men?s strident yells of ?Are we well fedJ 0o?# ?Do we see lifeJ 1es?, t!undering up t!e long slopes after me# '!en t!ey tired of telling t!e trut! . *ould !ear t!e rattle of t!eir a**outrements !it*!ed over t!e wooden saddles--eleven or fifteen !it*!ings t!ey !ad, ea*! time t!ey loaded up, in pla*e of t!e Ara ?s all-em ra*ing saddle- ag t!rown on in one move ment# . was so ound up in t!eir dar& ody and tail e!ind me, t!at ., too, lost my way etween t!e $adi and %air# $owever, till dawn we steered y t!e stars Bt!e men?s ne3t meal was in %air, for yesterday t!eir iron ration was e3!austedC, and day ro&e on us in a wooded valley w!i*! was *ertainly 'adi %air) ut for my life . *ould not tell if we were a ove or elow t!e wells# . *onfessed my fault to %u3ton and Mars!all and we tettered for a w!ile, till, y *!an*e, Sagr i n S!aalan, one of our old allies of t!e distant days of 'e>!, rode down t!e tra*&, and put us on t!e road# An !our later t!e Camel Corps !ad new rations and t!eir old tents y t!e wells, and found t!at Salama, t!e provident 4gyptian do*tor, *al*ulating t!eir return to-day, !ad already filled t!e drin&ing *isterns wit! enoug! water to sla&e t!e !alf of t!eir t!irsty easts# . determined to go into A a el 2issan wit! t!e armoured *ars, for %u3ton was now on proved ground among friends, and *ould do wit!out my !elp# So we drove fast down t!e s*arp to t!e /efer flat, and s&ipped a*ross it at si3ty miles an !our, ourselves t!e leading *ar# 'e t!rew up su*! a dust-*loud t!at we lost our sister, and w!en we rea*!ed t!e sout! edge of t!e flat s!e was now!ere visi le# ,ro a ly tyre trou le, so we sat down to wait, ga+ing a*& into t!e dappled waves of mirage w!i*! streamed over t!e ground# (!eir dar& vapour, elow t!e pale s&y Bw!i*! got more and more lue as it went !ig!erC s!ifted a do+en times in t!e !our, giving us a false alarm of our *oming friends) ut at last, t!roug! t!e greyness, *ame spinning a la*& spot wagging a long trail of sun-s!ining dust# (!is was Green!ill tearing after, at speed t!roug! t!e s!rivelling air, w!i*! eddied a out !is urning metal turret, ma&ing it so !ot t!at its na&ed steel seared t!e are arms and &nees of t!e *rew w!enever t!e !uge *ar lur*!ed in t!e soft !eat-powdered ground, w!ose *arpeted dust lay waiting for t!e low autumn wind to sweep it a*ross t!e openin a linding *!o&ing storm# 8ur *ar stood tyre-deep, and, w!ile we waited, t!e men slopped petrol on a !illo*& of dust and oiled tea for us--Army tea, as full of leaves as flood water, and yellow wit! tinned mil&, ut good for par*!ed t!roats# '!ile we dran& t!e ot!ers drew alongside, and reported two ursts of %eldam tu es in t!e !eat of t!eir swoop at a mile a minute a*ross t!e s*or*!ing plain# 'e gave t!em of our oiled tea, and laug!ing t!ey &no*&ed t!e dust off t!eir fa*es wit! oily !ands# (!ey loo&ed aged, wit! its greyness in t!eir lea*!ed eye rows and eyelas!es and in t!e pores of t!eir fa*es, e3*ept w!ere t!e sweat !ad was!ed dar&-edged furrows t!roug ! to t!e red s&in# (!ey dran& !urriedly Bfor t!e sun was falling, and we !ad yet fifty miles to goC, t!rowing out t!e last dregs on t!e ground, w!ere t!e drops ran apart li&e @ui*&silver upon t!e dusty surfa*e till t!ey were *lotted and san& in spe*&led s!ot-!oles over its drifted grey-ness# (!en we drove t!roug! t!e ruined railway to A a el 2issan, w!ere /oy*e, Dawnay and 1oung reported all going marvellously# .n fa*t, preparations were *omplete, and t!ey were rea&ing up, /oy*e for Cairo to see a dentist, Dawnay for G#$#H#, to tell Allen y we were prosperous and o edient#

&()PTE" &+I
/oy*e?s s!ip !ad *ome up from /idda, wit! t!e Me**an mail# :eisal opened !is ;i la B;ing $ussein?s Ga+etteC, to find staring at !im a "oyal ,ro*lamation, saying t!at fools were *alling /aafar ,as!a t!e General 8ffi*er Commanding t!e Ara 0ort!ern Army, w!ereas t!ere was no su*! ran&, indeed no ran& !ig!er t!an *aptain in t!e Ara Army, w!erein S!ei&! /aafar, li&e anot!er, was doing !is dutyA

(!is !ad een pu lis!ed y ;ing $ussein Bafter reading t!at Allen y !ad de*orated /aafarC wit!out warning :eisal) to spite t!e nort!ern town-Ara s, t!e Syrian and Mesopotamian offi*ers, w!om t!e ;ing at on*e despised for t!eir la3ity and feared for t!eir a**omplis!ments# $e &new t!at t!ey were fig!ting, not to give !im dominion, ut to set free t!eir own *ountries for t!eir own governing, and t!e lust for power !ad grown un*ontrolla le in t!e old man# /aafar *ame in and proffered !is resignation to :eisal# (!ere followed !im our divisional offi*ers and t!eir staffs, wit! t!e regimental and attalion *ommanders# . egged t!em to pay no !eed to t!e !umours of an old man of seventy, out of t!e world in Me**a, w!ose greatness t!ey t!emselves !ad made) and :eisal refused to a**ept t!eir resignations, pointing out t!at t!e *ommissions Bsin*e !is fat!er !ad not approved t!eir servi*eC were issued y !imself, and !e alone was dis*redited y t!e pro*lamation# 8n t!is assumption !e telegrap!ed to Me**a, and re*eived a return telegram w!i*! *alled !im traitor and outlaw# $e replied laying down !is *ommand of t!e A&a a front# $ussein appointed Geid to su**eed !im# Geid promptly refused# $ussein?s *ip!er messages e*ame *orrupt wit! rage, and t!e military life of A a el 2issan *ame to a sudden stop# Dawnay, from A&a a, efore t!e s!ip sailed, rang me up, and as&ed dolefully if all !ope were over# . answered t!at t!ings !ung on *!an*e, ut per!aps we s!ould get t!roug!# (!ree *ourses lay efore us# (!e first, to get pressure put on ;ing $ussein to wit!draw !is statement# (!e se*ond, to *arry on, ignoring it# (!e t!ird, to set up :eisal in formal independen*e of !is fat!er# (!ere were advo*ates of ea*! *ourse, amongst t!e 4nglis!, as amongst t!e Ara s# 'e wired to Allen y as&ing !im to smoot! out t!e in*ident# $ussein was o stinate and *rafty, and it mig!t ta&e wee&s to for*e !im out of !is o sta*les to an apology# 0ormally, we *ould !ave afforded t!ese wee&s) ut to-day we were in t!e un!appy position t!at after t!ree days, if at all, our e3pedition to Deraa must start# 'e must find some means of *arrying on t!e war, w!ile 4gypt soug!t for a solution# My first duty was to send e3press to 0uri S!aalan t!at . *ould not meet !im at t!e gat!ering of !is tri es in ;af, ut would e in A+ra& from t!e first day of t!e new moon, at !is servi*e# (!is was a sad e3pedient, for 0uri mig!t ta&e suspi*ion of my *!ange and fail at t!e tryst) and wit!out t!e "ualla !alf our effi*ien*y and importan*e at Deraa on Septem er t!e si3teent! would disappear# $owever, we !ad to ris& t!is smaller loss, sin*e wit!out :eisal and t!e regulars and ,isani?s guns t!ere would e no e3pedition, and for t!e sa&e of reforming t!eir tempers . must wait in A a el 2issan# My se*ond duty was to start off t!e *aravans for A+ra&--t!e aggage, t!e food, t!e petrol, t!e ammunition# 1oung prepared t!ese, rising, as ever, to any o**asion not of !is own see&ing# $e was !is own first o sta*le, ut would !ave no man !inder him# 0ever *ould . forget t!e radiant fa*e of 0uri Said, after a >oint *onferen*e, en*ountering a group of Ara offi*ers wit! t!e *!eerful words, ?0ever mind, you fellows) !e tal&s to t!e 4nglis! >ust as !e does to usA? 0ow !e saw t!at ea*! e*!elon started--not, indeed, to time ut only a day late--under its appointed offi*ers, a**ording to programme# .t !ad een our prin*iple to issue orders to t!e Ara s only t!roug! t!eir own *!iefs, so t!ey !ad no pre*edent eit!er for o edien*e or for diso edien*e- and off t!ey went li&e lam s# My t!ird duty was to fa*e a mutiny of t!e troops# (!ey !ad !eard false rumours a out t!e *risis# ,arti*ularly, t!e gunners misunderstood, and one afternoon fell out wit! t!eir offi*ers, and rus!ed off to turn t!e guns on t!eir tents# $owever, "asim, t!e artillery *ommandant, !ad forestalled t!em y *olle*ting t!e ree*!- lo*&s into a pyramid inside !is tent# . too& advantage of t!is *omi* moment to meet t!e men# (!ey were tense at first, ut eventually out of *uriosity t!ey fell to tal&ing wit! me, w!o to t!em !ad een only an e**entri* name, as a !alf-%eduin 4nglis!man# . told t!em t!e *offee-*up storm w!i*! was raging among t!e !ig! !eads, and t!ey laug!ed merrily# (!eir fa*es were turned towards Damas*us, not Me**a, and t!ey *ared for not!ing outside t!eir army# (!eir fear was t!at :eisal !ad deserted, sin*e for days !e !ad not een out# . promised to ring !im down instantly# '!en !e, wit! Geid, loo&ing as usual, drove t!roug! t!e lines in t!e <au3!all, w!i*! %ols !ad !ad painted spe*ially green for !im, t!eir eyes *onvin*ed t!em of t!eir error#

My fourt! duty was to start off t!e troops for A+ra& on t!e rig!t day# (o effe*t t!is, t!eir *onfiden*e in t!e *onfiden*e of t!e offi*ers !ad to e restored# Stirling?s ta*t was *alled upon# 0uri Said was am itious, as any soldier would !ave een, to ma&e mu*! of t!e opportunity efore !im, and readily agreed to move as far as A+ra&, pending $ussein?s apology# .f t!is was unsatisfa*tory t!ey *ould return, or t!row off allegian*e) if it was ade@uate, as . assured !im it would e, t!e interim and unmerited servi*es of t!e 0ort!ern Army s!ould ring a lus! to t!e old man?s *!ee&# (!e ran&s responded to luffer arguments# 'e made plain t!at su*! gross @uestions as food and pay depended entirely on t!e maintenan*e of organi+ation# (!ey yielded, and t!e separate *olumns, of mounted infantry, of ma*!ine-gunners, of 4gyptian sappers, of G!ur&as, of ,isani?s gunners, moved off in t!eir *ourses, a**ording to t!e routine of Stirling and 1oung, only two days late# (!e last o ligation was to restore :eisal?s suprema*y# (o attempt anyt!ing serious etween Deraa and Damas*us wit!out !im would e vain# 'e *ould put in t!e atta*& on Deraa, w!i*! was w!at Allen y e3pe*ted from us) ut t!e *apture of Damas*us--w!i*! was w!at . e3pe*ted from t!e Ara s, t!e reason w!y . !ad >oined wit! t!em in t!e field, ta&en ten t!ousand pains, and spent my wit and strengt!--t!at depended on :eisal?s eing present wit! us in t!e fig!ting line, undistra*ted y military duties, ut ready to ta&e over and e3ploit t!e politi*al value of w!at our odies *on@uered for !im# 4ventually !e offered to *ome up under my orders# As for t!e apology from Me**a, Allen y and 'ilson were doing t!eir est, engrossing t!e *a les# .f t!ey failed, my *ourse would e to promise :eisal t!e dire*t support of t!e %ritis! Government, and drive !im into Damas*us as sovereign prin*e# .t was possi le- ut . wanted to avoid it e3*ept as a last ne*essity# (!e Ara s !it!erto in t!eir revolt !ad made *lean !istory, and . did not wis! our adventure to *ome to t!e pitia le state of s*ission efore t!e *ommon vi*tory and its pea*e# ;ing $ussein e!aved truly to type, protesting fluently, wit! endless *ir*umlo*ution, s!owing no understanding of t!e grave effe*t of !is in*ursion into 0ort!ern Army affairs# (o *lear !is mind we sent !im plain statements, w!i*! drew a usive ut involved returns# $is telegrams *ame t!roug! 4gypt and y wireless to our operators in A&a a, and were sent up to me y *ar, for delivery to :eisal# (!e Ara i* *ip!ers were simple, and . !ad undesira le passages mutilated y rearranging t!eir figures into nonsense, efore !anding t!em in *ode to :eisal# %y t!is easy e3pedient t!e temper of !is entourage was not needlessly *ompli*ated# (!e play went on for several days, Me**a never repeating a message notified *orrupt, ut telegrap!ing in its pla*e a fres! version toned down at ea*! re-editing from t!e previous !ars!ness# :inally, t!ere *ame a long message, t!e first !alf a lame apology and wit!drawal of t!e mis*!ievous pro*lamation, t!e se*ond !alf a repetition of t!e offen*e in a new form# . suppressed t!e tail, and too& t!e !ead mar&ed <ery urgent? to :eisal?s tent, w!ere !e sat in t!e full *ir*le of !is staff offi*ers# $is se*retary wor&ed out t!e despat*!, and !anded t!e de*ip!er to :eisal# My !ints !ad roused e3pe*tation, and all eyes were on !im as !e read it# $e was astonis!ed, and ga+ed wonderingly at me, for t!e mee& words were unli&e !is fat!er?s @uerulous o stina*y# (!en !e pulled !imself toget!er, read t!e apology aloud, and at t!e end said t!rillingly, (!e telegrap! !as saved all our!onour?# A *!orus of delig!t urst out, during w!i*! !e ent aside to w!isper in my ear, ?. mean t!e !onour of nearly all of us?# .t was done so delig!tfully t!at . laug!ed, and said demurely, ?. *annot understand w!at you mean?# $e replied, ?. offered to serve for t!is last mar*! under your orders- w!y was t!at not enoug!J? ?%e*ause it would not go wit! your !onour#? $e murmured, ?1ou prefer mine always efore your own?, and t!en sprang energeti*ally to !is feet, saying, ?0ow, Sirs, praise God and wor&?# .n t!ree !ours we !ad settled time-ta les, and arranged for our su**essors !ere in A a el 2issan, wit! t!eir sp!eres and duties# . too& my leave# /oy*e !ad >ust returned to us from 4gypt, and :eisal promised t!at !e would *ome, wit! !im and Mars!all, to A+ra& to >oin me on t!e twelft! at latest# All t!e *amp was !appy as . got into a "olls tender and set off nort!ward, !oping yet to rally t!e "ualla under 0uri S!aalan in time for our atta*& on Deraa#

,##- TE!. The (ouse is Perfected

&()PTE"S &+II T# &..II
3ur mobile column of aeroplanes, armoured cars, arab regulars and beduin collected at A(rak, to cut the three railways out of 1eraa. The southern line we cut near #afrak9 the northern at Arar9 the western by #e(erib. 2e circumnavigated 1eraa, and rallied, despite air raids, in the desert. )e%t day Allenby attacked, and in a few hours had scattered the Turkish armies beyond recovery. $ flew to :alestine for aeroplane help, and got orders for a second phase of the thrust northward. 2e moved behind 1eraa to hasten its abandonment. General "arrow &oined us9 in his company we advanced to Kiswe, and there met the Australian mounted corps. 3ur united forces entered 1amascus unopposed. Some confusion manifested itself in the city. 2e strove to allay it9 Allenby arrived and smoothed out all difficulties. Afterwards he let me go.

&()PTE" &+II
.t was an ine3pressi le pleasure to !ave left t!e mists e!ind# 'e *aug!t at ea*! ot!er wit! t!an&fulness as we drove along, 'interton, 0asir and myself# 2ord 'interton was our last-found re*ruit) an e3perien*ed offi*er from %u3ton?s Camel Corps# S!erif 0asir, w!o !ad een t!e spearpoint of t!e Ara Army sin*e t!e first days of Medina, !ad een *!osen y us for t!e field-wor& on t!is last o**asion also# $e deserved t!e !onour of Damas*us, for !is !ad een t!e !onours of Medina, of 'e>!, of A&a a, and of (afile!) and of many arren days eside# A painsta&ing little :ord !ung on in t!e dust, e!ind, as our splendid *ar dran& up t!e familiar miles# 8n*e . !ad een proud of riding from A+ra& to A&a a in t!ree days) ut now we drove it in two, and slept well of nig!ts after t!is mournful *omfort of eing orne at ease in "olls-"oy*es, li&e t!e great ones of war# 'e noted again !ow easy t!eir lives were) t!e soft ody and its une3!austed sinews !elping t!e rain to *on*entrate upon an arm*!air wor&- w!ereas our rains and odies lay down only for t!e stupor of an !our?s sleep, in t!e flus! of dawn and t!e flus! of sunset, t!e two seasons of t!e day unw!olesome for riding# Many a day we !ad een twenty-two out of t!e twenty-four !ours in t!e saddle, ea*! ta&ing it in turn to lead t!roug! t!e dar&ness w!ile t!e ot!ers let t!eir !eads nod forward over t!e pommel in nes*ien*e# 0ot t!at it was more t!an a t!in nes*ien*e- for even in t!e deepest of su*! sleep t!e foot went on pressing t!e *amel?s s!oulder to &eep it at t!e *ross-*ountry pa*e, and t!e rider awo&e if t!e alan*e were lost ever so little at a false stride or turn# (!en we !ad !ad rain, snow or sun eating upon us) little food, little water, and no se*urity against eit!er (ur&s or Ara s# 1et t!ose for*ed mont!s wit! t!e tri es !ad let me plan in a surety w!i*! seemed lunati* ras!ness to new *omers, ut a*tually was an e3a*t &nowledge of my materials# 0ow t!e desert was not normal- indeed, it was s!amefully popular# 'e were never out of sig!t of men) of tenuous *amel *olumns of troops and tri esmen and aggage moving slowly nort!ward over t!e intermina le /efer flat# ,ast t!is a*tivity Bof good omen for our pun*tual *on*entration at A+ra&C

we roared, my e3*ellent driver, Green, on*e a*!ieving si3ty-seven miles an !our# (!e !alf-stifled 0asir w!o sat in t!e o3- od y *ould only wave !is !and a*ross a furlong to ea*! friend we overtoo&# At %air we !eard from t!e alarmed %eni Sa&!r t!at t!e (ur&s, on t!e pre*eding day, !ad laun*!ed suddenly westward from $esa into (afile!# Mifle! t!oug!t . was mad, or most untimely merry, w!en . laug!ed outrig!t at t!e news w!i*! four days sooner would !ave !eld up t!e A+ra& e3pedition- ut, now we were started, t!e enemy mig!t ta&e A a el 2issan, Guweira, A&a a itself--and wel*omeA 8ur formida le tal& of advan*e y Amman !ad pulled t!eir leg nearly out of so*&et, and t!e inno*ents were out to *ounter our feint# 4a*! man t!ey sent sout! was a man, or rat!er ten men, lost# .n A+ra& we found a few servants of 0uri S!aalan, and t!e Crossley *ar wit! a flying offi*er, an airman, some spares, and a *anvas !angar for t!e two ma*!ines prote*ting our *on*entration# 'e spent our first nig!t on t!eir aerodrome and suffered for it A re*&less armoured-plated *amel-fly, iting li&e a !ornet, o**upied our e3posed parts till sunset# (!en *ame a lessed relief as t!e it*! grew milder in t!e evening *ool-- ut t!e wind *!anged and !ot s!owers of linding salty dust swept us for t!ree !ours# 'e lay down and drew *overs over our !eads, ut *ould not sleep# 4a*! !alf-!our we !ad to t!row off t!e sand w!i*! t!reatened to ury us# At midnig!t t!e wind *eased# 'e issued from our sweaty nests and restfully prepared to sleep--w!en, singing, a *loud of mos@uitoes rolled over ust!em we foug!t till dawn# Conse@uently, at dawn we *!anged *amp to t!e !eig!t of t!e Me>a er ridge, a mile west of t!e water and a !undred feet a ove t!e mars!es, open to all winds t!at lew# 'e rested a w!ile, t!en put up t!e !angar, and afterwards went off to at!e in t!e silver water# 'e undressed eside t!e spar&ling pools w!ose pearl-w!ite sides and floor refle*ted t!e s&y wit! a moony radian*e# Deli*iousA? . yelled as . splas!ed in and swain a out# %ut w!y do you &eep on o ing under waterJ? as&ed 'interton a moment later# (!en a *amel-fly it !im e!ind, and !e understood, and leapt in after me# 'e swam a out, desperately &eeping our !eads wet, to dissuade t!e grey swarms- ut t!ey were too old wit! !unger to e afraid of water, and after five minutes we struggled out, and franti*ally into our *lot!es, t!e lood running from twenty of t!eir dagger- ites# 0asir stood and laug!ed at us- and later we >ourneyed toget!er to t!e fort, to rest midday t!ere# Ali i n el $ussein?s old *orner tower, t!is only roof in t!e desert, was *ool and pea*eful# (!e wind stirred t!e palm-fronds outside to a frosty rustling- negle*ted palms, too nort!erly for t!eir red date-*rop to e good) ut t!e stems were t!i*& wit! low ran*!es, and t!rew a pleasant s!ade# 9nder t!em, on !is *arpet, sat 0asir in t!e @uietness# (!e grey smo&e of !is t!rown-away *igarette undulated out on t!e warm air, fli*&ering and fading t!roug! t!e sunspots w!i*! s!one etween t!e leaves# ?. am !appy?, said !e# 'e were all !appy# .n t!e afternoon an armoured *ar *ame up, *ompleting our ne*essary defen*e, t!oug! t!e ris& of enemy was minute# (!ree tri es *overed t!e *ountry etween us and t!e railway# (!ere were only forty !orsemen in Deraa, none in Amman- also, as yet t!e (ur&s !ad no news of us# 8ne of t!eir aeroplanes flew over on t!e morning of t!e nint!, made a perfun*tory *ir*le, and went off, pro a ly wit!out seeing us# 8ur *amp, on its airy summit, gave us splendid o servation of t!e Deraa and Amman roads# %y day we twelve 4nglis!, wit! 0asir and !is slave, la+ed, roaming, at!ing at sunset, sig!t-seeing, t!in&ing) and slept *omforta ly at nig!t- or rat!er . did- en>oying t!e pre*ious interval etween t!e *on@uered friends of A a el 2issan and t!e enemy of ne3t mont!# (!e pre*iousness would seem to !ave een partly in myself, for on t!is mar*! to Damas*us Band su*! it was already in our imaginationC my normal alan*e !ad *!anged# . *ould feel t!e taut power of Ara e3*itement e!ind me# (!e *lima3 of t!e prea*!ing of years !ad *ome, and a united *ountry was straining towards its !istori* *apital# .n *onfiden*e t!at t!is weapon, tempered y myself, was enoug! for t!e utmost of my purpose, . seemed to forget t!e 4nglis! *ompanions w!o stood outside my idea in t!e s!adow of ordinary wa r# . failed to ma&e t!em partners of my *ertainty# 2ong after, . !eard t!at 'interton rose ea*! dawn and e3amined t!e !ori+on, lest my *arelessness su >e*t us to surprise- and at 9mtaiye and S!ei&! Saad t!e %ritis! for days t!oug!t we were a forlorn

!ope# A*tually . &new Band surely saidJC t!at we were as safe as anyone in t!e world at war# %e*ause of t!e pride t!ey !ad, . never saw t!eir dou t of my plans# (!ese plans were a feint against Amman and a real *utting of t!e Deraa railways- furt!er t!an t!is we !ardly went, for it was ever my !a it, w!ile studying alternatives, to &eep t!e stages in solution# (!e pu li* often gave *redit to Generals e*ause it !ad seen only t!e orders and t!e result- even :o*! said B efore !e *ommanded troopsC t!at Generals won attles- ut no General ever truly t!oug!t so# (!e Syrian *ampaign of Septem er 1916 was per!aps t!e most s*ientifi*ally perfe*t in 4nglis! !istory, one in w!i*! for*e did least and rain most# All t!e world, and espe*ially t!ose w!o served t!em, gave t!e *redit of t!e vi*tory to Allen y and %art!olomew- ut t!ose two would never see it in our lig!t, &nowing !ow t!eir in*!oate ideas were dis*overed in appli*ation, and !ow t!eir men, often not &nowing, wroug!t t!em# %y our esta lis!ment at A+ra& t!e first part of our plan, t!e feint, was a**omplis!ed# 'e !ad sent our ?!orsemen of St# George?, gold sovereigns, y t!e t!ousand to t!e %eni S!a&r, pur*!asing all t!e arley on t!eir t!res!ing floors- egging t!em not to mention it, ut we would re@uire it for our animals and for our %ritis! allies, in a fortnig!t# D!ia of (afile!--t!at >er&y, in*omplete !o lede!oy--gossiped t!e news instantly t!roug! to ;era&# .n addition, :eisal warned t!e Ge n to %air, for servi*e) and $orn y, now Bper!aps a little prematurelyC wearing Ara *lot!es, was a*tive in preparations for a great assault on Made a# $is plan was to move a out t!e nineteent!, w!en !e !eard t!at Allen y was started) !is !ope eing to tie on to /eri*!o, so t!at if we failed y Deraa our for*e *ould return and reinfor*e !is movement- w!i*! would t!en e, not a feint, ut t!e old se*ond string to our ow# $owever, t!e (ur&s &no*&ed t!is rat!er *roo&ed y t!eir advan*e to (afile!, and $orn y !ad to defend S!o e& against t!em# :or our se*ond part, t!e Deraa usiness, we !ad to plan an atta*& proper# As preliminary we determined to *ut t!e line near Amman, t!us preventing Amman?s reinfor*ement of Deraa, and maintaining its *onvi*tion t!at our feint against it was real# .t seemed to me t!at Bwit! 4gyptians to do t!e a*tual destru*tionC t!is preliminary *ould e underta&en y t!e G!ur&as, w!ose deta*!ment would not distra*t our main ody from t!e main purpose# (!is main purpose was to *ut t!e railways in t!e $auran and &eep t!em *ut for at least a wee&) and t!ere seemed to e t!ree ways of doing it# (!e first was to mar*! nort! of Deraa to t!e Damas*us railway, as on my ride wit! (allal in t!e winter, *ut it) and t!en *ross to t!e 1armu& railway# (!e se*ond was to mar*! sout! of Deraa to t!e 1armu&, as wit! Ali i n el $ussein in 0ovem er, 191L# (!e t!ird was to rus! straig!t at Deraa town# (!e t!ird s*!eme *ould e underta&en only if t!e Air :or*e would promise so !eavy a daylig!t om ing of Deraa station t!at t!e effe*t would e tantamount to artillery om ardment, ena ling us to ris& an assault against it wit! our few men# Salmond !oped to do t!is) ut it depended on !ow many !eavy ma*!ines !e re*eived or assem led in time# Dawnay would fly over to us !ere wit! !is last word on Septem er t!e elevent!# (ill t!en we would !old t!e s*!emes e@ual in our >udgement# 8f our supports, my odyguard were t!e first to arrive, pran*ing up 'adi Sir!an on Septem er t!e nint!- !appy, fatter t!an t!eir fat *amels, rested, and amused after t!eir mont! of feasting wit! t!e "ualla# (!ey reported 0uri nearly ready, and determined to >oin us# (!e *ontagion of t!e new tri e?s first vigour !ad @ui*&ened in t!em a Me and spirit w!i*! made us >olly# 8n t!e tent! t!e two aeroplanes *ame t!roug! from A&a a# Murp!y and /unor, t!e pilots, settled down to t!e !orse-flies w!i*! gam olled in t!e air a out t!eir >ui*iness# 8n t!e elevent!, t!e ot!er armoured *ars and /oy*e drove in, wit! Stirling, ut wit!out :eisal# Mars!all !ad remained to s@uire !im up ne3t day) and t!ings were always safe to go well w!ere Mars!all, t!e *apa le soul, dire*ted t!em wit! a *ultivated !umour, w!i*! was not so mu*! riotous as persistent# 1oung, ,ea&e, S*ott$iggins and t!e aggage arrived# A+ra& e*ame many-peopled and its la&es were again resonant wit! voi*es and t!e plunge of rown and lean, rown and strong, *opper-*oloured, or w!ite odies into t!e

transparent water# 8n t!e elevent! t!e aeroplane from ,alestine arrived# 9nfortunately, Dawnay was again ill, and t!e staff offi*er w!o too& !is pla*e B eing rawC !ad suffered severely from t!e roug!ness of t!e air) and !ad left e!ind t!e notes !e was to ring us# $is rat!er *on*rete assuran*e, t!at regard upon !is world of t!e finis!ed 4nglis!man, gave way efore t!ese s!o*&s, and t!e final s!o*& of our na&ed *arelessness out t!ere in t!e desert, wit!out pi*&ets or wat*!ing posts, signallers, sentries or telep!ones, or any apparent reserves, defen*e-line, refuges and ases# So !e forgot !is most important news, !ow on Septem er t!e si3t! Allen y, wit! a new inspiration, !ad said to %art!olomew, ?'!y ot!er a out Messudie!J 2et t!e *avalry go straig!t to Afule!, and 0a+aret!?- and so t!e w!ole plan !ad een *!anged, and an enormous indefinite advan*e su stituted for t!e fi3ed o >e*tive# 'e got no notion of t!is) ut y *ross-@uestioning t!e pilot, w!om Salmond !ad informed, we got a *lear statement of t!e resour*es in om ing ma*!ines# (!ey fell s!ort of our minimum for Deraa) so we as&ed for >ust a !amper- om ing of it w!ile we went round it y t!e nort!, to ma&e sure of destroying t!e Damas*us line# (!e ne3t day :eisal arrived wit!, e!ind !im, t!e army of troops, 0uri Said t!e spi*& and span, /emil t!e gunner, ,isani?s *oster-li&e Algerians, and t!e ot!er items of our ?t!ree men and a oy? effort# (!e grey flies !ad now two t!ousand *amels to fatten upon, and in t!eir weariness gave up /unor and !is !alf-drained me*!ani*s# .n t!e afternoon 0uri S!aalan appeared, wit! (rad and ;!alid, ,aris, Dur+i, and t!e ;!affa>i# Auda a u (ayi arrived, wit! Mo!ammed el D!eilan) also :a!ad and Ad!u , t!e Ge n leaders, wit! i n %ani, t!e *!ief of t!e Sera!in, and i n Gen> of t!e Serdiye!# Ma>id i n Sultan, of t!e Adwan near Salt, rode a*ross to learn t!e trut! of our atta*& on Amman# 2ater in t!e evening t!ere was a rattle of rifle fire in t!e nort!, and (alal el $areid!in, my old *ompanion, *ame ruffling at t!e gallop, wit! forty or fifty mounted peasants e!ind !im# $is sanguine fa*e eamed wit! >oy at our long-!oped-for arrival# Druses and town-Syrians, .sawiye! and $awarne! swelled t!e *ompany# 4ven t!e arley for our return if t!e venture failed Ba possi ility we seldom entertainedC egan to arrive in a steady file of loads# 4veryone was stout and in !ealt!# 43*ept myself# (!e *rowd !ad destroyed my pleasure in A+ra&, and . went off down t!e valley to our remote Ain el 4ssad and lay t!ere all day in my old lair among t!e tamaris&, w!ere t!e wind in t!e dusty green ran*!es played wit! su*! sounds as it made in 4nglis! trees# .t told me . was tired to deat! of t!ese Ara s) petty in*arnate Semites w!o attained !eig!ts and dept!s eyond our rea*!, t!oug! not eyond our sig!t# (!ey reali+ed our a solute in t!eir unrestrained *apa*ity for good and evil) and for two years . !ad profita ly s!ammed to e t!eir *ompanionA (o-day it *ame to me wit! finality t!at my patien*e as regards t!e false position . !ad een led into was finis!ed# A wee&, two wee&s, t!ree, and . would insist upon relief# My nerve !ad ro&en) and . would e lu*&y if t!e ruin of it *ould e !idden so long# /oy*e meanw!ile s!ouldered t!e responsi ility w!i*! my defe*tion endangered# %y !is orders ,ea&e, wit! t!e 4gyptian Camel Corps, now a sapper party, S*ott-$iggins, wit! !is fig!ting G!ur&as, and two armoured *ars as insuran*e, went off to *ut t!e railway y .fdein# (!e s*!eme was for S*ott-$iggins to rus! a lo*&!ouse after dar& wit! !is nim le .ndians--nim le on foot t!at was to say, for t!ey were li&e sa*&s, on *amels# ,ea&e was t!en to demolis! until dawn# (!e *ars would *over t!eir retreat eastward in t!e morning, over t!e plain, upon w!i*! we, t!e main ody, would e mar*!ing nort! from A+ra& for 9mtaiye, a great pit of rain-water fifteen miles elow Deraa, and our advan*ed ase# 'e gave t!em "ualla guides and saw t!em off, !opefully, for t!is important preliminary#

&()PTE" &+III
/ust at dawn our *olumn mar*!ed# 8f t!em one t!ousand were t!e A a el 2issan *ontingent- t!ree

!undred were 0uri S!aalan?s nomad !orse# $e !ad also two t!ousand "ualla *amel-riders- t!ese we as&ed !im to &eep in 'adi Sir!an# .t seemed not wise, efore t!e supreme day, to laun*! so many distur ing %eduin among t!e villages of $auran# (!e !orsemen were s!ei&!s, or s!ei&!s? servants, men of su stan*e, under *ontrol# Affairs wit! 0uri and :eisal !eld me t!e w!ole day in A+ra&- ut /oy*e !ad left me a tender, t!e %lue Mist, y w!i*! on t!e following morning . overtoo& t!e army, and found t!em rea&fasting among t!e grass-filled roug!ness of t!e Giaan el ;!unna# (!e *amels, >oying to e out of t!e arren *ir*le of A+ra&, were pa*&ing t!eir stoma*!s !astily wit! t!is est of food# /oy*e !ad ad news# ,ea&e !ad re>oined, reporting failure to rea*! t!e line, e*ause of trou le wit! Ara en*ampments in t!e neig! our!ood of !is proposed demolition# 'e !ad set store on rea&ing t!e Amman railway, and t!e *!e*& was an offen*e# . left t!e *ar, too& a load of gun-*otton, and mounted my *amel, to pus! in advan*e of t!e for*e# (!e ot!ers made a detour to avoid !ars! tongues of lava w!i*! ran down westwards towards t!e railway) ut we, Ageyl and ot!ers of t!e wellmounted, *ut straig!t a*ross y a t!ieves? pat! to t!e open plain a out t!e ruined 9m el /emal# . was t!in&ing !ard a out t!e Amman demolition, pu++led as to w!at e3pedient would e @ui*&est and est) and t!e pu++le of t!ese ruins added to my *are# (!ere seemed eviden*e of luntness of mind in t!ese "oman frontier *ities, 9m el /emal, 9m el Sura , 9m-taiye# Su*! in*ongruous uildings, in w!at was t!en and now a desert *o*&pit, a**used t!eir uilders of insensitiveness) almost of a vulgar assertion of man?s rig!t B"oman rig!tC to live un*!anged in all !is estate# .talianate uildings--only to e paid for y ta3ing more do*ile provin*es--on t!ese fringes of t!e world dis*losed a prosai* lindness to t!e transien*e of politi*s# A !ouse w!i*! so survived t!e purpose of its uilder was a pride too trivial to *onfer !onour upon t!e mind responsi le for its *on*eption# 9m el /emal seemed aggressive and impudent, and t!e railway eyond it so tiresomely inta*t, t!at t!ey linded me to an air- attle etween Murp!y in our %ristol :ig!ter and an enemy two-seater# (!e %ristol was adly s!ot a out efore t!e (ur& went down in flames# 8ur army were delig!ted spe*tators, ut Murp!y, finding t!e damage too great for !is few materials at A+ra&, went for repair to ,alestine in t!e morning# So our tiny Air :or*e was redu*ed to t!e %#4#12, a type so out of date t!at it was impossi le for fig!ting, and little use for re*onnaissan*e# (!is we dis*overed on t!e daymeanw!ile we were as glad as t!e army at our man?s win# 9mtaiye was rea*!ed, >ust efore sunset# (!e troops were five or si3 miles e!ind, so as soon as our easts !ad !ad a drin& we stru*& off to t!e railway, four miles down!ill to t!e westward, t!in&ing to do a snat*!-demolition# (!e dus& let us get *lose wit!out alarm, and, to our >oy, we found t!at t!e going was possi le for armoured *ars- w!ile >ust efore us were two good ridges# (!ese points de*ided me to return in t!e morning, wit! *ars and more gun-*otton, to a olis! t!e larger, four-ar*!ed ridge# .ts destru*tion would give t!e (ur&s some days? !ard mending, and set us free of Amman all t!e time of our first Deraa raid) t!us t!e purpose of ,ea&e?s frustrated demolition would e filled# .t was a !appy dis*overy, and we rode a*&, @uartering t!e ground w!ile t!e dar&ness gat!ered, to pi*& t!e est *ar road# As we *lim ed t!e last ridge, a !ig! un ro&en waters!ed w!i*! !id 9mtaiye *ompletely from t!e railway and its possi le wat*!men, t!e fres! nort!-east wind lew into our fa*es t!e warm smell and dust of ten t!ousand feet) and from t!e *rest t!e ruins appeared so startlingly unli&e t!emselves t!ree !ours efore t!at we pulled up to gasp# (!e !ollow ground was festively spangled wit! a gala3y of little evening fires, fres!-lig!ted, still twin&ling wit! t!e flame refle*tions in t!eir smo&e# A out t!em men were ma&ing read or *offee, w!ile ot!ers drove t!eir noisy *amels to and from t!e water# . rode to t!e dar& *amp, t!e %ritis! one, and sat t!ere wit! /oy*e and 'interton and 1oung, telling t!em of w!at we must do first t!ing in t!e morning# %eside us lay and smo&ed t!e %ritis! soldiers, @uietly ris&ing t!emselves on t!is e3pedition, e*ause we ordered it# .t was a t!ing typi*al, as instin*t wit! our national *!ara*ter as t!at a ling laug!ing turmoil over t!ere was Ara # .n t!eir *rises t!e one ra*e drew in, t!e ot!er spread#

.n t!e morning, w!ile t!e army rea&fasted, and t!awed t!e dawn-*!ill from its mus*les in t!e sun, we e3plained to t!e Ara leaders in *oun*il t!e fitness of t!e line for a *ar-raid) and it was determined t!at two armoured *ars s!ould run down to t!e ridge and atta*& it, w!ile t!e main ody *ontinued t!eir mar*! to (ell Arar on t!e Damas*us "ailway, four miles nort! of Deraa# (!ey would ta&e post t!ere, possessing t!e line, at dawn to-morrow, Septem er t!e seventeent!) and we wit! t!e *ars would !ave finis!ed t!is ridge and re>oined t!em efore t!at# A out two in t!e afternoon, as we drove towards t!e railway, we !ad t!e great sig!t of a swarm of our om ing planes droning steadily up towards Deraa on t!eir first raid# (!e pla*e !ad !it!erto een *arefully reserved from air atta*&) so t!e damage among t!e una**ustomed, unprote*ted, unarmed garrison was !eavy# (!e morale of t!e men suffered as mu*! as t!e railway traffi*- and till our onslaug!t from t!e nort! for*ed t!em to see us, all t!eir efforts went into digging om -proof s!elters# 'e lur*!ed a*ross plots of grass, etween ars and fields of roug! stone, in our two tenders and two armoured *ars) ut arrived all well e!ind a last ridge, >ust t!is side of our target# 8n t!e rise sout! of t!e ridge stood a stone lo*&!ouse# 'e settled to leave t!e tenders !ere, under *over# . transferred myself, wit! one !undred and fifty pounds of gun-*otton, fused and ready, to one armoured *ar) intending to drive passively down t!e valley towards t!e ridge, till its ar*!es, s!eltering us from t!e fire of t!e post, ena led me to lay and lig!t t!e demolition *!arges# Meanw!ile t!e ot!er, t!e a*tive fig!ting *ar, would engage t!e lo*&!ouse at s!ort range to *over my operation# (!e two *ars set out simultaneously# '!en t!ey saw us t!e astonis!ed garrison of seven or eig!t (ur&s got out of t!eir tren*!es, and, rifles in !and, advan*ed upon us in open order- moved eit!er y pani*, y misunderstanding, or y an in!uman unmi3ed *ourage# .n a few minutes t!e se*ond *ar *ame into a*tion against t!em- w!ile four ot!er (ur&s appeared eside t!e ridge and s!ot at us# 8ur ma*!ine-gunners ranged, and fired a s!ort urst# 8ne man fell, anot!er was !it- t!e rest ran a little way, t!oug!t etter of it, and returned, ma&ing friendly signs# 'e too& t!eir rifles, and sent t!em up valley to t!e tenders, w!ose drivers were wat*!ing us &eenly from t!eir ridge# (!e lo*&!ouse surrendered at t!e same moment# 'e were very *ontent to !ave ta&en t!e ridge, and its se*tion of tra*&, in five minutes wit!out loss# /oy*e rus!ed down in !is tender wit! more gun-*otton, and !astily we set a out t!e ridge, a pleasant little wor&, eig!ty feet long and fifteen feet !ig!, !onoured wit! a s!ining sla of w!ite mar le, earing t!e name and titles of Sultan A d el $amid# .n t!e drainage !oles of t!e spandrils si3 small *!arges were inserted +ig+ag, and wit! t!eir e3plosion all t!e ar*!es were s*ientifi*ally s!attered) t!e demolition eing a fine e3ample of t!at finest sort w!i*! left t!e s&eleton of its ridge inta*t indeed, ut tottering, so t!at t!e repairing enemy !ad a first la our to destroy t!e wre*&, efore t!ey *ould attempt to re uild# '!en we !ad finis!ed, enemy patrols were near enoug! to give us fair e3*use for @uitting# (!e few prisoners, w!om we valued for .ntelligen*e reasons, were given pla*e on our loads) and we umped off# 9nfortunately we umped too *arelessly in our satisfa*tion, and at t!e first water*ourse t!ere was a *ras! eneat! my tender# 8ne side of its o3- ody tipped downward till t!e weig!t *ame on t!e tyre at t!e a*& w!eel, and we stu*&# (!e front ra*&et of t!e near a*& spring !ad *rystalli+ed t!roug! y t!e *!assis, in a s!eer rea& w!i*! not!ing ut a wor&s!op *ould mend# 'e ga+ed in despair, for we were only t!ree !undred yards from t!e railway, and stood to lose t!e *ar, w!en t!e enemy *ame along in ten minutes# A "olls in t!e desert was a ove ru ies) and t!oug! we !ad een driving in t!ese for eig!teen mont!s, not upon t!e polis!ed roads of t!eir ma&ers? intention, ut a*ross *ountry of t!e vilest, at speed, day or nig!t, *arrying a ton of goods and four or five men up, yet t!is was our first stru*tural a**ident in t!e team of nine#

"olls, t!e driver, our strongest and most resour*eful man, t!e ready me*!ani*, w!ose s&ill and advi*e largely &ept our *ars in running order, was nearly in tears over t!e mis!ap# (!e &not of us, offi*ers and men, 4nglis!, Ara s and (ur&s, *rowded round !im and wat*!ed !is fa*e an3iously# As !e reali+ed t!at !e, a private, *ommanded in t!is emergen*y, even t!e stu le on !is >aw seemed to !arden in sullen determination# At last !e said t!ere was >ust one *!an*e# 'e mig!t >a*& up t!e fallen end of t!e spring, and wedge it, y aul&s upon t!e running oard, in nearly its old position# 'it! t!e !elp of ropes t!e t!in angle-irons of t!e running oards mig!t *arry t!e additional weig!t# 'e !ad on ea*! *ar a lengt! of s*antling to pla*e etween t!e dou le tyres if ever t!e *ar stu*& in sand or mud# (!ree lo*&s of t!is would ma&e t!e needful !eig!t# 'e !ad no saw, ut drove ullets t!roug! it *ross-wise till we *ould snap it off# (!e (ur&s !eard us firing, and !alted *autiously# /oy*e !eard us and ran a*& to !elp# .nto !is *ar we piled our load, >a*&ed up t!e spring and t!e *!assis, las!ed in t!e wooden aul&s, let !er down on t!em Bt!ey ore splendidlyC, *ran&ed up, and drove off# "olls eased !er to wal&ing speed at every stone and dit*!, w!ile we, prisoners and all, ran eside wit! *ries of en*ouragement, *learing t!e tra*&# .n *amp we stit*!ed t!e lo*&s wit! *aptured telegrap! wire, and ound t!em toget!er and to t!e *!assis, and t!e spring to t!e *!assis) till it loo&ed as strong as possi le, and we put a*& t!e load# So enduring was t!e running oard t!at we did t!e ordinary wor& wit! t!e *ar for t!e ne3t t!ree wee&s, and too& !er so into Damas*us at t!e end# Great was "olls, and great was "oy*eA (!ey were wort! !undreds of men to us in t!ese deserts# (!is darning t!e *ar delayed us for !ours, and at its end we slept in 9mtaiye, *onfident t!at, y starting efore dawn, we s!ould not e mu*! late in meeting 0uri Said on t!e Damas*us line tomorrow- and we *ould tell !im t!at, for a wee&, t!e Amman line was sealed, y loss of a main ridge# (!is was t!e side of @ui*&est reinfor*ement for Deraa, and its deat! made our rear safe# 4ven we !ad !elped poor Geid, e!ind t!ere in A a el 2issan- for t!e (ur&s massed in (afile! would !old up t!at atta*& till t!eir *ommuni*ations were again open# 8ur last *ampaign was eginning auspi*iously#

&()PTE" &I.
Duly, efore dawn, we drove upon t!e tra*& of Stirling?s *ars, eager to e wit! t!em efore t!eir fig!t# 9nfortunately t!e going was not !elpful# At first we !ad a ad des*ent, and t!en diffi*ult flats of >agged dolerite, a*ross w!i*! we *rawled painfully# 2ater we ran over ploug!ed slopes# (!e soil was !eavy for t!e *ars, for wit! summer droug!t t!is red eart! *ra*&ed a yard deep and two or t!ree in*!es wide# (!e five-ton armoured *ars were redu*ed to first speed, and nearly stu*&# 'e overtoo& t!e Ara Army a out eig!t in t!e morning, on t!e *rest of t!e slope to t!e railway, as it was deploying to atta*& t!e little ridge-guarding redou t etween us and t!e mound of (ell Arar w!ose !ead overloo&ed t!e *ountry-side to Deraa# "ualla !orsemen, led y (rad, das!ed down t!e long slope and over t!e li@uori*e-grown ed of t!e water*ourse to t!e line# 1oung oun*ed after t!em in !is :ord# :rom t!e ridge we t!oug!t t!e railway ta&en wit!out a s!ot, ut w!ile we ga+ed, suddenly from t!e negle*ted (ur&is! post *ame a vi*ious spitting fire, and our raves, w!o !ad een standing in splendid attitudes on t!e *oveted line Bwondering privately w!at on eart! to do ne3tC disappeared# 0uri Said moved down ,isani?s guns and fired a few s!ots# (!en t!e "ualla and troops rus!ed t!e redou t easily, wit! only one &illed# So t!e sout!ern ten miles of t!e Damas*us line was freely ours y nine in t!e morning# .t was t!e only railway to ,alestine and $e>a+ and . *ould !ardly reali+e our fortune) !ardly elieve t!at our word to Allen y was fulfilled so simply and so soon# (!e Ara s streamed down from t!e ridge in rivers of men, and swarmed upon t!e round !ead of (ell Arar, to loo& over t!eir plain, w!ose rimmed flatness t!e early sun spe*iously relieved, y yet t!rowing more s!adow t!an lig!t# 8ur soldiers *ould see Deraa, Me+eri and G!a+ale, t!e t!ree &eystations, wit! t!eir na&ed eyes#

. was seeing furt!er t!an t!is- nort!ward to Damas*us, t!e (ur&is! ase, t!eir only lin& wit! Constantinople and Germany, now *ut off- sout!ward to Amman and Maan and Medina, all *ut offwestward to 2iman von Sandars isolated in 0a+aret!- to 0a lus- to t!e /ordan <alley# (o-day was Septem er t!e seventeent!, t!e promised day, forty-eig!t !ours efore Allen y would t!row forward !is full power# .n forty-eig!t !ours t!e (ur&s mig!t de*ide to *!ange t!eir dispositions to meet our new danger) ut t!ey *ould not *!ange t!em efore Allen y stru*&# %art!olomew !ad said, (ell me if !e will e in !is Au>a line t!e day efore we start, and . will tell you if we will win?# 'ell, !e was) so we would win# (!e @uestion was y !ow mu*!# . wanted t!e w!ole line destroyed in a moment- ut t!ings seemed to !ave stopped# (!e army !ad done its s!are- 0uri Said was posting ma*!ine-guns a out t!e Arar mound to &eep a*& any sortie from Deraa- ut w!y was t!ere no demolition going onJ . rus!ed down, to find ,ea&e?s 4gyptians ma&ing rea&fast# .t was li&e Dra&e?s game of owls, and . fell dum wit! admiration# $owever, in an !our t!ey were mustered for t!eir r!yt!mi* demolition y num ers) and already t!e :ren*! gunners, w!o also *arried gun-*otton, !ad des*ended wit! intention upon t!e near ridge# (!ey were not very good, ut at t!e se*ond try did it some !urt# :rom t!e !ead of (ell Arar, efore t!e mirage !ad egun to dan*e, we e3amined Deraa *arefully t!roug! my strong glass, wanting to see w!at t!e (ur&s !ad in store for us t!is day# (!e first dis*overy was distur ing# (!eir aerodrome was alive wit! gangs pulling ma*!ine after ma*!ine into t!e open# . *ould *ount eig!t or nine lined up# 8t!erwise t!ings were as we e3pe*ted# Some few infantry were dou ling out into t!e defen*e-position, and t!eir guns were eing fired towards us- ut we were four miles off# 2o*omotives were getting up steam- ut t!e trains were unarmoured# %e!ind us, towards Damas*us, t!e *ountry lay still as a map# :rom Me+eri on our rig!t, t!ere was no movement# 'e !eld t!e initiative# 8ur !ope was to fire si3 !undred *!arges, tulip-fas!ion, putting out of *ommission si3 &ilometres of rail# (ulips !ad een invented y ,ea&e and myself for t!is o**asion# (!irty oun*es of gun-*otton were planted eneat! t!e *entre of t!e *entral sleeper of ea*! ten-metre se*tion of t!e tra*&# (!e sleepers were steel, and t!eir o3-s!ape left an air-*!am er w!i*! t!e gas e3pansion filled, to low t!e middle of t!e sleeper upward# .f t!e *!arge was properly laid, t!e metal did not snap, ut !umped itself, ud-li&e, two feet in t!e air# (!e lift of it pulled t!e rails t!ree in*!es up- t!e drag of it pulled t!em si3 in*!es toget!er) and, as t!e *!airs gripped t!e ottom flanges, warped t!em inward seriously# (!e triple distortion put t!em eyond repair# (!ree or five sleepers would e li&ewise ruined, and a tren*! driven a*ross t!e eart!wor&- all t!is wit! one *!arge, fired y a fuse, so s!ort t!at t!e first, lowing off w!ile t!e t!ird was eing lig!ted, *ast its de ris safely over!ead# Si3 !undred su*! *!arges would ta&e t!e (ur&s a fair wee& to mend# (!is would e a generous reading of Allen y?s ?t!ree men and a oy wit! pistols?# . turned to go a*& to t!e troops, and at t!at moment two t!ings !appened# ,ea&e fired !is first *!arge, li&e a poplar-tree of la*& smo&e, wit! a low following report) and t!e first (ur&is! ma*!ine got up and *ame for us# 0uri Said and . fitted admira ly under an out*rop of ro*&, fissured into deep natural tren*!es, on t!e !ill?s sout!ern fa*e# (!ere we waited *oolly for t!e om - ut it was only a re*onnaissan*e ma*!ine, a ,fal+, w!i*! studied us, and returned to Deraa wit! its news# %ad news it must !ave een, for t!ree two-seaters, and four s*outs and an old yellow- ellied Al atros got up in @ui*& su**ession, and *ir*led over us, dropping om s, or diving at us wit! ma*!ine-gun fire# 0uri put !is $ot*!&iss gunners in t!e ro*& *ra*&s, and rattled a*& at t!em# ,isani *o*&ed up !is four mountain guns, and let fly some optimisti* s!rapnel# (!is distur ed t!e enemy, w!o *ir*led off, and *ame a*& mu*! !ig!er# (!eir aim e*ame un*ertain# 'e s*attered out t!e troops and *amels, w!ile t!e irregulars s*attered t!emselves# (o open into t!e t!innest target was our only !ope of safety, as t!e plain !ad not over!ead *over for a ra it) and our !earts misgave us w!en we saw w!at t!ousands of men we !ad, dotted out elow# .t was strange to stand on t!e !ill-top loo&ing at t!ese two rolling s@uare miles, li erally spread wit! men and animals,

and ursting out irregularly wit! la+y silent ul s of smo&e w!ere om s dropped Bseemingly @uite apart from t!eir t!underC or wit! sprays of dust w!ere ma*!ine-gun groups las!ed down# (!ings loo&ed and sounded !ot, ut t!e 4gyptians went on wor&ing as met!odi*ally as t!ey !ad eaten# :our parties dug in tulips, w!ile ,ea&e and one of !is offi*ers lit ea*! series as it was laid# (!e two sla s of gun-*otton in a tulip-*!arge were not enoug! to ma&e a s!owy e3plosion, and t!e aeroplanes seemed not to see w!at was going on- at least t!ey did not was! t!em parti*ularly wit! om s) and as t!e demolition pro*eeded, t!e party drew gradually out of t!e danger-area into t!e @uiet lands*ape to t!e nort!# 'e tra*ed t!eir progress y t!e degradation of t!e telegrap!# .n virgin parts its poles stood trimly, drilled y t!e taut wire- ut e!ind ,ea&e t!ey leaned and tottered any!ow, or fell# 0uri Said, /oy*e and myself met in *oun*il, and pondered !ow to get at t!e 1armu& se*tion of t!e ,alestine line to top off our *utting of t!e Damas*us and $e>a+ "ailways# .n view of t!e reported opposition t!ere we must ta&e nearly all our men, w!i*! seemed !ardly wise under su*! *onstant air o servation# :or one t!ing, t!e om s mig!t !urt us adly on t!e mar*! a*ross t!e open plain) and, for anot!er, ,ea&e?s demolition party would e at t!e mer*y of Deraa if t!e (ur&s plu*&ed up t!e *ourage to sally# :or t!e moment t!ey were fearful- ut time mig!t ma&e t!em rave# '!ile we !esitated, t!ings were marvellously solved# /unor, t!e pilot of t!e %#4# 12 ma*!ine, now alone at A+ra&, !ad !eard from t!e disa led Murp!y of t!e enemy ma*!ines a out Deraa, and in !is own mind de*ided to ta&e t!e %ristol :ig!ter?s pla*e, and *arry out t!e air programme# So w!en t!ings were at t!eir t!i*&est wit! us !e suddenly sailed into t!e *ir*us# 'e wat*!ed wit! mi3ed feelings, for !is !opelessly old-fas!ioned ma*!ine made !im *old meat for any one of t!e enemy s*outs or two-seaters- ut at first !e astonis!ed t!em, as !e rattled in wit! !is two guns# (!ey s*attered for a *areful loo& at t!is une3pe*ted opponent# $e flew westward a*ross t!e line, and t!ey went after in pursuit, wit! t!at amia le wea&ness of air*raft for a !ostile ma*!ine, !owever important t!e ground target# 'e were left in perfe*t pea*e# 0uri *aug!t at t!e lull to *olle*t t!ree !undred and fifty regulars, wit! two of ,isani?s guns) and !urried t!em over t!e saddle e!ind (ell Arar, on t!e first stage of t!eir mar*! to Me+eri # .f t!e aeroplanes gave us a !alf-!our?s law, t!ey would pro a ly noti*e neit!er t!e lessened num ers y t!e mound, nor t!e s*attered groups ma&ing along every slope and !ollow a*ross t!e stu le westward# (!is *ultivated land !ad a @uilt-wor& appearan*e from t!e air- also t!e ground was tall wit! mai+e stal&s, and t!istles grew saddle-!ig! a out it in great fields# 'e sent t!e peasantry after t!e soldiers, and !alf an !our later . was *alling up my odyguard t!at we mig!t get to Me+eri efore t!e ot!ers, w!en again we !eard t!e drone of engines) and, to our astonis!ment, /unor reappeared, still alive, t!oug! attended on t!ree sides y enemy ma*!ines, spitting ullets# $e was twisting and slipping splendidly, firing a*&# (!eir very num ers !indered t!em ut of *ourse t!e affair *ould !ave only one endin g# .n t!e faint !ope t!at !e mig!t get down inta*t we rus!ed towards t!e railway w!ere was a strip of ground, not too oulder-strewn# 4veryone !elped to *lear it at speed, w!ile /unor was eing driven lower# $e t!rew us a message to say !is petrol was finis!ed# 'e wor&ed feveris!ly for five minutes, and t!en put out a landing-signal# $e dived at it, ut as !e did so t!e wind flawed and lew a*ross at a s!arp angle# (!e *leared strip was too little in any *ase# $e too& ground eautifully, ut t!e wind puffed a*ross on*e more# $is under-*arriage went, and t!e plane turned over in t!e roug!# 'e rus!ed up to res*ue, ut /unor was out, wit! no more !urt t!an a *ut on t!e *!in# $e too& off !is 2ewis gun, and t!e <i*&ers, and t!e drums of tra*er ammunition for t!em# 'e t!rew everyt!ing into 1oung?s :ord, and fled, as one of t!e (ur&is! two-seaters dived vi*iously and dropped a om y t!e wre*&# /unor five minutes later was as&ing for anot!er >o # /oy*e gave !im a :ord for !imself, and !e ran oldly down t!e line till near Deraa, and lew a gap in t!e rails t!ere, efore t!e (ur&s saw !im# (!ey

found su*! +eal e3*essive, and opened on !im wit! t!eir guns- ut !e rattled away again in !is :ord, un!urt for t!e t!ird time#

&()PTE" &.
My odyguard waited in two long lines on t!e !ill-side# /oy*e was staying at (ell Arar as *overing for*e, wit! a !undred of 0uri Said?s men, t!e "ualla, t!e G!ur&as and t!e *ars) w!ile we slipped a*ross to rea& t!e ,alestine "ailway# My party would loo& li&e %eduins, so . determined to move openly to Me+eri y t!e @ui*&est *ourse, for we were very late# 9nfortunately we drew enemy attention# An aeroplane *rawled over us, dropping om s- one, two, t!ree, misses- t!e fourt! into our midst# (wo of my men went down# (!eir *amels, in leeding masses, struggled on t!e ground# (!e men !ad not a s*rat*!, and leaped up e!ind two of t!eir friends# Anot!er ma*!ine floated past us, its engine *ut off# (wo more om s, and a s!o*& w!i*! spun my *amel round, and &no*&ed me !alf out of t!e saddle wit! a urning num ness in my rig!t el ow# . felt . was !ard !it, and egan to *ry for t!e pity of it- to e put out >ust w!en anot!er day?s *ontrol would !ave meant a vast su**ess# (!e lood was running down my arm- per!aps if . did not loo& at it . mig!t *arry on as if . were un!urt# My *amel swung to a spatter of ma*!ine-gun ullets# . *lut*!ed at t!e pommel, and found my damaged arm t!ere and effi*ient# . !ad >udged it lown off# My left !and t!rew t!e *loa& aside and e3plored for t!e wound--to feel only a very !ot little splinter of metal, too lig!t to do real !arm after driving t!roug! t!e massed folds of my *loa&# (!e trifle s!owed !ow mu*! my nerve was on edge# Curiously enoug! it was t!e first time . !ad een !it from t!e air# 'e opened out and rode greatly, &nowing t!e ground y !eart) *!e*&ing only to tell t!e young peasants we met t!at t!e wor& was now at Me+eri # (!e field-pat!s were full of t!ese fellows, pouring out afoot from every village to !elp us# (!ey were very willing- ut our eyes !ad rested so long on t!e rown leanness of desert men t!at t!ese gay village lads wit! t!eir flus!ed fa*es, *lustering !air, and plump pale arms and legs seemed li&e girls# (!ey !ad &ilted up t!eir gowns a ove t!e &nee for fast wor&- and t!e more a*tive ra*ed eside us t!roug! t!e fields, *!affing a*& my veterans# As we rea*!ed Me+eri , Dur+i i n Dug!mi met us, wit! news t!at 0uri Said?s soldiers were only two miles a*&# 'e watered our *amels, and dran& deeply ourselves, for it !ad een a long, !ot day, and was not ended# (!en from e!ind t!e old fort we loo&ed over t!e la&e, and saw movement in t!e :ren*! railway station# Some of t!e w!ite-legged fellows told us t!at t!e (ur&s !eld it in for*e# $owever t!e approa*!es were too tempting# A dulla led our *!arge, for my days of adventure were ended, wit! t!e sluggard e3*use t!at my s&in must e &ept for a >ustifying emergen*y# 8t!erwise . wanted to enter Damas*us# (!is >o was too easy# A dulla found grain- also flour) and some little ooty of weapons, !orses, ornaments# (!ese e3*ited my !angers-on# 0ew ad!erents *ame running a*ross t!e grass, li&e flies to !oney# (allal arrived at !is *onstant gallop# 'e passed t!e stream, and wal&ed toget!er up t!e far an& &nee-deep in weeds till we saw t!e (ur&is! station t!ree !undred yards in front# 'e mig!t *apture t!is efore atta*&ing t!e great ridge elow (ell el S!e!a # (allal advan*ed *arelessly# (ur&s s!owed t!emselves to rig!t and left# ?.t?s all rig!t,? said !e, ?. &now t!e stationmaster?- ut w!en we were two !undred yards away, twenty rifles fired a s!o*&ing volley at us# 'e dropped un!urt into t!e weeds Bnearly all of t!em t!istlesC, and *rawled gingerly a*&, (allal swearing# My men !eard !im, or t!e s!ots, and *ame streaming up from t!e river- ut we returned t!em, fearing a ma*!ine-gun in t!e station uildings# 0uri Said was due# $e arrived wit! 0asir, and we *onsidered t!e usiness# 0uri pointed out t!at delay at Me+eri mig!t lose us t!e ridge, a greater o >e*tive# . agreed, ut t!oug!t t!is ird in !and mig!t suffi*e, sin*e ,ea&e?s main line demolition would stand for a wee&, and t!e wee&?s end ring a new situation#

So ,isani unfolded !is willing guns and smas!ed in a few rounds of point- lan& !ig! e3plosive# 9nder t!eir *over, wit! our twenty ma*!ine-guns ma&ing a roof over!ead, 0uri wal&ed forward, gloved and sworded, to re*eive t!e surrender of t!e forty soldiers left alive# 9pon t!is most ri*! station !undreds of $aurani peasants !urled t!emselves in fren+y, plundering# Men, women and *!ildren foug!t li&e dogs over every o >e*t# Doors and windows, door-frames and window-frames, even steps of t!e stairs, were *arried off# 8ne !opeful lew in t!e safe and found postage stamps inside# 8t!ers smas!ed open t!e long range of waggons in t!e siding, to find all manner of goods# (ons were *arried off# 1et more were strewn in wre*&age on t!e ground# 1oung and . *ut t!e telegrap!, !ere an important networ& of trun& and lo*al lines, indeed t!e ,alestine army?s main lin& wit! t!eir !omeland# .t was pleasant to imagine 2inan von Sandars? fres! *urse, in 0a+aret!, as ea*! severed wire tanged a*& from t!e *lippers# 'e did t!em slowly, wit! *eremony, to draw out t!e indignation# (!e (ur&s? !opeless la*& of initiative made t!eir army a ?dire*ted? one, so t!at y destroying t!e telegrap!s we went far towards turning t!em into a leaderless mo # After t!e telegrap! we lew in t!e points, and planted tulips- not very many, ut enoug! to annoy# '!ile we wor&ed a lig!t engine *ame down t!e line from Deraa on patrol# (!e ang and dust-*louds of our tulips pertur ed it# .t wit!drew dis*reetly# 2ater an aeroplane visited us# Among t!e *aptured rolling sto*&, on platform tru*&s, were two lorries *rammed wit! deli*a*ies for some German *anteen# (!e Ara s, distrusting tins and ottles, !ad spoiled nearly everyt!ing- ut we got some soups and meat, and later 0uri Said gave us ottled asparagus# $e !ad found an Ara pri+ing open t!e *ase and !ad *ried ?pigs? ones? at !im in !orror w!en t!e *ontents *ame to lig!t# (!e peasant spat and dropped it, and0uri @ui*&ly stuffed all !e *ould into !is saddle- ags# (!e lorries !ad !uge petrol tan&s# %eyond t!em were some tru*&s of firewood# 'e set t!e w!ole afire at sunset, w!en t!e plundering was finis!ed, and t!e troops and tri esmen !ad fallen a*& to t!e soft grass y t!e outlet from t!e la&e# (!e splendid la+e spreading along t!e line of waggons illuminated our evening meal# (!e wood urned wit! a solid glare, and t!e fiery tongues and ursts of t!e petrol went towering up, !ig!er t!an t!e watertan&s# 'e let t!e men ma&e read and sup and rest, efore a nig!t-attempt on t!e S!e!a ridge, w!i*! lay t!ree miles to t!e westward# 'e !ad meant to atta*& at dar&, ut t!e wis! for food stopped us, and t!en we !ad swarms of visitors, for our ea*on-lig!t advertised us over !alf $auran# <isitors were our eyes, and !ad to e wel*omed# My usiness was to see every one wit! news, and let !im tal& !imself out to me, afterwards arranging and *om ining t!e trut! of t!ese points into a *omplete pi*ture in my mind# Complete, e*ause it gave me *ertainty of >udgement- ut it was not *ons*ious nor logi*al, for my informants were so many t!at t!ey informed me to distra*tion, and my single mind ent under all its *laims# Men *ame pouring down from t!e nort! on !orse, on *amel, and on foot, !undreds and !undreds of t!em in a terri le grandeur of ent!usiasm, t!in&ing t!is was t!e final o**upation of t!e *ountry, and t!at 0asir would seal !is vi*tory y ta&ing Deraa in t!e nig!t 4ven t!e magistrates of Deraa *ame to open us t!eir town# %y a**eding we s!ould !old t!e water supply of t!e railway station, w!i*! must inevita ly yield- yet later, if t!e ruin of t!e (ur&is! army *ame ut slowly, we mig!t e for*ed out again, and lose t!e plainsmen etween Deraa and Damas*us, in w!ose !ands our final vi*tory lay# A ni*e *al*ulation, if !ardly a fres! one, ut on t!e w!ole t!e arguments were still against ta&ing Deraa# Again we !ad to put off our friends wit! e3*uses wit!in t!eir *ompre!ension#

&()PTE" &.I
Slow wor&) and w!en at last we were ready a new visitor appeared, t!e oy-*!ief of (ell el S!e!a # $is village was t!e &ey to t!e ridge# $e des*ri ed t!e position) t!e large guard) !ow it was pla*ed# 8 viously t!e pro lem was !arder t!an we !ad elieved, if !is tale was true# 'e dou ted it, for !is >ust-dead fat!er !ad een !ostile, and t!e son sounded too suddenly devoted to our *ause# $owever,

!e finis!ed y suggesting t!at !e return after an !our wit! t!e offi*er *ommanding t!e garrison, a friend of !is# 'e sent !im off to ring !is (ur&, telling our waiting men to lie down for anot!er rief rest# Soon t!e oy was a*& wit! a *aptain, an Armenian, an3ious to !arm !is government in any way !e *ould# Also !e was very nervous# 'e !ad !ard wor& to assure !im of our enlig!tenment# $is su alterns, !e said, were loyal (ur&s, and some of t!e non-*ommissioned offi*ers# $e proposed we move *lose to t!e village, and lie t!ere se*retly, w!ile t!ree or four of our lustiest men !id in !is room# $e would *all !is su ordinates one y one to see !im) and, as ea*! entered, our am us! mig!t pinion !im# (!is sounded in t!e proper des*ent from oo&s of adventure, and we agreed ent!usiasti*ally# .t was nine at nig!t# At eleven pre*isely we would line up round t!e village and wait for t!e S!ei&! to s!ow our strong men to t!e Commandant?s !ouse# (!e two *onspirators departed, *ontent, w!ile we wo&e up our army, asleep wit! t!e sleep of e3!austion eside t!eir loaded *am els# .t was pit*!y dar&# My odyguard prepared ridge-*utting *!arges of gelatine# . filled my po*&ets wit! detonators# 0asir sent men to ea*! se*tion of t!e Camel Corps to tell t!em of t!e *oming adventure, t!at t!ey mig!t wor& t!emselves up to t!e !eig!t of it- and to ensure t!eir mounting @uietly, wit!out t!e disaster of a roaring *amel# (!ey played up# .n a long dou le line our for*e *rept down a winding pat!, eside an irrigation dit*!, on t!e *rest of t!e dividing ridge# .f t!ere was trea*!ery efore us, t!is are road would e a deat!trap, wit!out issue to rig!t or left, narrow, tortuous, and slippery wit! t!e dit*!-water# So 0asir and . went first wit! our men, t!eir trained ears attentive to every sound, t!eir eyes &eeping *onstant guard# .n front of us was t!e waterfall, w!ose urdening roar !ad given its *!ara*ter to t!at unforgetta le nig!t wit! Ali i n el $ussein w!en we !ad attempted t!is ridge from t!e ot!er wall of t!e ravine# 8nly to-nig!t we were nearer, so t!at t!e noise flooded up oppressively and filled our ears# 'e *rept very slowly and *arefully now, soundless on our are feet, w!ile e!ind us t!e !eavier soldiery sna&ed along, !olding t!eir reat!# (!ey also were soundless, for *amels moved always stilly at nig!t, and we !ad pa*&ed t!e e@uipment not to tap, t!e saddles not to *rea&# (!eir @uietness made t!e dar& dar&er, and deepened t!e mena*e of t!ose w!ispering valleys eit!er side# 'aves of dan& air from t!e river met us, *!illy in our fa*es) and t!en "a!ail *ame down swiftly from t!e left and *aug!t my arm, pointing to a slow *olumn of w!ite smo&e rising from t!e valley# 'e ran to t!e edge of t!e des*ent, and peered over- ut t!e dept! was grey wit! mist risen off t!e water, and we saw only dimness and t!is pale vapour spiring from t!e level fog an&# Somew!ere down t!ere was t!e railway, and we stopped t!e mar*!, afraid lest t!is e t!e suspe*ted trap# (!ree of us went foot y foot down t!e slippery !illside till we *ould !ear voi*es# (!en suddenly t!e smo&e ro&e and s!ifted, wit! t!e panting of an opened t!rottle, and afterwards t!e s@uealing of ra&es as an engine *ame again to a standstill# (!ere must e a long train waiting eneat!) reassured, we mar*!ed again to t!e very spur elow t!e village# 'e e3tended in line a*ross its ne*&, and waited five minutes, ten minutes# (!ey passed slowly# (!e mur& nig!t efore moonrise was !us!ing in its solidity, and would !ave *ompelled patien*e on our restless fellows, wit!out t!e added warnings of t!e dogs, and t!e intermittent ringing *!allenge of sentries a out t!e ridge# At lengt! we let t!e men slip @uietly from t!eir *amels to t!e ground, and sat wondering at t!e delay, and t!e (ur&s? wat*!fulness, and t!e meaning of t!at silent train standing elow us in t!e valley# 8ur woollen *loa&s got stiff and !eavy wit! t!e mist, and we s!ivered# After a long w!ile a lig!ter spe*& *ame t!roug! t!e dar&# .t was t!e oy s!ei&!, !olding !is rown *loa& open to s!ow us !is w!ite s!irt li&e a flag# $e w!ispered t!at !is plan !ad failed# A train Bt!is one in t!e ravineC !ad >ust arrived wit! a German *olonel and t!e German and (ur& reserves from Afule!, sent up y 2iman von Sandars, to res*ue pani*-stri*&en Deraa# (!ey !ad put t!e little Armenian under arrest for eing a sent from !is post# (!ere were ma*!ineguns galore, and sentries patrolling t!e approa*!es wit! *easeless energy# .n fa*t, t!ere was a strong pi*&et on t!e pat!, not a !undred yards from w!ere we sat- t!e oddity of our >oint state made me

laug!, t!oug! @uietly# 0uri Said offered to ta&e t!e pla*e y main for*e# 'e !ad om s enoug!, and pistol flares) num ers and preparedness would e on our side# .t was a fair *!an*e- ut . was at t!e game of re*&oning t!e value of t!e o >e*tive in terms of life, and as usual finding it too dear# 8f *ourse, most t!ings done in war were too dear, and we s!ould !ave followed good e3ample y going in and going t!roug! wit! it# %ut . was se*retly and dis*laimedly proud of t!e planning of our *ampaigns- so . told 0uri t!at . voted against it# 'e !ad today twi*e *ut t!e Damas*us-,alestine railway) and t!e ringing !ere of t!e Afule! garrison was a t!ird enefit to Allen y# 8ur ond !ad een most !eavily !onoured# 0uri, after a moment?s t!oug!t agreed# 'e said good-nig!t to t!e lad w!o !ad !onestly tried to do so mu*! for us# 'e passed down t!e lines, w!ispering to ea*! man to lead a*& in silen*e# (!en we sat in a group wit! our rifles Bmine 4nver?s gold-ins*ri ed 2ee-4n-field trop!y from t!e Dardanelles, given y !im to :eisal years agoC waiting till our men s!ould e eyond t!e danger +one# 8ddly enoug! t!is was t!e !ardest moment of t!e nig!t# 0ow t!e wor& was over we *ould s*ar*ely resist t!e temptation to rouse t!e spoil-sport Germans out# .t would !ave een so easy to !ave *ra*&ed off a <ery lig!t into t!eir ivoua*) and t!e solemn men would !ave turned out in ludi*rous !urry, and s!ot !ard into t!e are, misty !ill-side silent at t!eir feet# (!e identi*al notion *ame independently to 0asir, 0uri Said, and myself# 'e lurted it out toget!er, and ea*! promptly felt as!amed t!at t!e ot!ers !ad een as *!ildis!# %y mutual *autions we managed to &eep our respe*ta ility# At Me+eri , after midnig!t, we felt t!at somet!ing must e done to avenge t!e forfeited ridge# So two parties of my fellows, wit! guides of (allal?s men, went eyond S!e!a , and *ut t!e line twi*e e!ind it on deserted gradients# (!eir e*!oing e3plosions gave t!e German deta*!ment a ad nig!t# :lares were lit and t!e neig! our!ood sear*!ed for some rewing atta*&# 'e were glad to give t!em as tiresome a nig!t as ours, for t!en t!ey too would e languid in t!e morning# 8ur friends were still *oming in every minute, to lass our !ands and swear eternal fealty# (!eir wiry ponies t!readed our misted *amp, etween t!e !undreds of sleeping men, and t!e uneasy *amels w!ose great >aws were mun*!ing all nig!t at t!e windy grass swallowed in t!e day !ours# %efore dawn ,isani?s ot!er guns and t!e rest of 0uri Said?s troops arrived from (ell Arar# 'e !ad written to /oy*e t!at on t!e morrow we would return sout!ward, y 0isi , to *omplete t!e *ir*le of Deraa# . suggested t!at !e move straig!t a*& to 9mtaiye and t!ere wait for us- for it, wit! its a undant water, splendid pasture, and e@ui-distan*e from Deraa and /e el Druse and t!e "ualla Desert, seemed an ideal pla*e in w!i*! we mig!t rally and wait news of Allen y?s fortune# %y !olding 9mtaiye we as good as *ut off t!e (ur&is! fourt! army of eyond /ordan Bour spe*ial irdC from Damas*us- and were in pla*e @ui*&ly to renew our main-line demolitions, w!enever t!e enemy !ad nearly set t!em rig!t#

&()PTE" &.II
"elu*tantly we pulled ourselves toget!er for anot!er day of effort, *alled up t!e army, and moved in a !uge straggle t!roug! Me+eri station# 8ur fires !ad urned out, and t!e pla*e stood dis!evelled# 1oung and myself leisurely laid tulips, w!ile t!e troops melted into ro&en ground towards "emt!e, to e out of sig!t of ot! Deraa and S!e!a # (ur&is! aeroplanes were !umming over!ead, loo&ing for us, so we sent our peasants a*& t!roug! Me+eri for t!eir villages# Conse@uently, t!e airmen reported t!at we were very numerous, possi ly eig!t or nine t!ousand strong, and t!at our *entrifugal movements seemed to e dire*ted towards every dire*tion at on*e# (o in*rease t!eir wonderment, t!e :ren*! gunners? long-fused *!arge lew up t!e water-tower at Me+eri , loudly, !ours after we !ad passed# (!e Germans were mar*!ing out of S!e!a for Deraa, at t!e moment, and t!e ine3pli*a le s!o*& sent t!ese !umourless ones a*& t!ere on guard till late afternoon# Meanw!ile we were far away, plodding steadily towards 0isi , w!ose !ill-top we rea*!ed a out four

in t!e afternoon# 'e gave t!e mounted infantry a s!ort rest, w!ile we moved our gunners and ma*!ine-guns to t!e *rest of t!e first ridge, from w!i*! t!e ground fell away !ollowly to t!e railway station# 'e posted t!e guns t!ere in s!elter, and as&ed t!em to open deli erately upon t!e station uildings at two t!ousand yards# ,isani?s se*tions wor&ed in emulation so t!at, efore long, ragged !oles appeared in t!e roofs and s!eds# At t!e same time we pus!ed our ma*!ine-gunners forward on t!e left, to fire long ursts against t!e tren*!es, w!i*! returned a !ot o stinate fire# $owever our troops !ad natural s!elter and t!e advantage of t!e afternoon sun e!ind t!eir a*&s# So we suffered no !urt# 0or did t!e enemy# 8f *ourse, all t!is was >ust a game, and t!e *apture of t!e station not in our plan# 8ur real o >e*tive was t!e great ridge nort! of t!e village# (!e ridge elow our feet *urved out in a long !orn to t!is wor&, serving as one an& of t!e valley w!i*! it was uilt to span# (!e village stood on t!e ot!er an&# (!e (ur&s !eld t!e ridge y means of a small redou t, and maintained tou*! wit! it y riflemen posted in t!e village under *over of its walls# 'e turned two of ,isani?s guns and si3 ma*!ine-guns on t!e small ut deeply-dug ridge-post, !oping to for*e its defenders out# :ive ma*!ine-guns dire*ted t!eir fire on t!e village# .n fifteen minutes its elders were out wit! us, very mu*! pertur ed# 0uri put, as t!e *ondition of *ease-fire, t!eir instant e>e*tment of t!e (ur&s from t!e !ouses# (!ey promised# So station and ridge were divided# 'e redou led against t!ese# (!e firing from t!e four wings e*ame violent, t!an&s to our twenty-five ma*!ine-guns, t!e (ur&s also eing plentifully supplied# At last we put all four of ,isani?s guns against t!e redou t) and, after a few salvoes, t!oug!t we saw its guard slipping from t!eir attered tren*!es t!roug! t!e ridge into *over of t!e railway em an&ment# (!is em an&ment was twenty feet !ig!# .f t!e ridge-guard *!ose to defend t!eir ridge t!roug! its ar*!es, t!ey would e in a *ostly position# $owever, we re*&oned t!at t!e attra*tion of t!eir fellows in t!e station would draw t!em away# . told off t!e !alf of my odyguard, *arrying e3plosives, to move along t!e ma*!ine-gun *rest till wit!in a stone?s t!row of t!e redou t# .t was a no le evening, yellow, mild and indes*ri a ly pea*eful) a foil to our in*essant *annonade# (!e de*lining lig!t s!one down t!e angle of t!e ridges, its soft rays modelling t!em and t!eir least *ontour in a deli*ate *omple3ity of planes# (!en t!e sun san& anot!er se*ond, and t!e surfa*e e*ame s!adow, out of w!i*! for a moment t!ere rose, star&ly, t!e innumera le flints strewing it) ea*! western Brefle*tingC fa*et tipped li&e a la*& diamond wit! flame# A very unfit afternoon for dying, seemed to t!in& my men- for t!e first time t!eir nerves failed, and t!ey refused to @uit t!eir s!elter for t!e enemy?s *lattering ullets# (!ey were tired, and t!eir *amels so mar*!ed out t!ey *ould only wal&- also t!ey &new t!at one ullet in t!e lasting gelatine would send t!em s&y-!ig!# A try to stir t!em y >est failed) at last . *ast t!em off) *!oosing only $emeid, t!e young and timid one amongst t!em, to *ome up wit! me on t!e !ill-top# $e s!oo& li&e a man in a si*& dream, ut followed @uietly# 'e rode down t!e ridge to its furt!est edge, to !ave a *lose loo& at t!e ridge# 0uri Said was t!ere, su*&ing !is riar pipe, and *!eering t!e gunners, w!o were &eeping a arrage over t!e dar&ening roads etween t!e ridge, t!e village and t!e station# 0uri, eing !appy, propounded to me plans of atta*& and alternative assaults against t!is station, w!i*! we did not wis! to assault# 'e argued t!eory for ten minutes on t!e s&yline, wit! $emeid win*ing in !is saddle as ullets, some of w!i*! were overs, spat past us, or ri*o*!ets !ummed li&e slow, angry ees eside our ears# (!e few proper !its splas!ed loudly into t!e flints, &i*&ing up a *!al&-dust w!i*! !ung transparently for a moment in t!e refle*ted lig!t# 0uri agreed to *over my movements to t!e ridge as well as !e *ould# (!en . turned $emeid a*& wit! my *amel, to tell t!e rest t!at . would !urt t!em worse t!an ullets if t!ey did not follow !im a*ross t!e danger-+one to meet me- for . meant to wal& round till . *ould e sure t!e ridge-post was empty#

'!ile t!ey !esitated, t!ere *ame up A dulla, t!e impertur a le, improvident, adventurous, w!o feared not!ing) and t!e Gaagi# (!ey, mad wit! fury t!at . !ad een let down, das!ed at t!e s!rin&ers, w!o pounded over t!e s!oulder wit! only si3 ullet-s*rat*!es# (!e redou t was indeed a andoned- so we dismounted, and signalled 0uri to *ease fire# .n t!e silen*e we *rept dis*reetly t!roug! t!e ridgear*!es, and found t!em also eva*uated# $urriedly we piled gun-*otton against t!e piers, w!i*! were a out five feet t!i*& and twenty-five feet !ig!) a good ridge, my seventy-nint!, and strategi*ally most *riti*al, sin*e we were going to live opposite it at 9mtaiye until Allen y *ame forward and relieved us# So . !ad determined to leave not a stone of it in pla*e# 0uri meanw!ile was !urrying t!e infantry, gunners and ma*!ine-gunners down in t!e t!i*&ening lig!t, towards t!e line, wit! orders to get a mile eyond into t!e desert, form up into *olumn and wait# 1et t!e passing of so many *amels over t!e tra*& must ta&e tediously long# 'e sat and *!afed under t!e ridge, mat*!es in !and, to lig!t at on*e Bdespite t!e troopsC if t!ere was an alarm# :ortunately everyt!ing went well, and after an !our 0uri gave me my signal# $alf a minute later Bmy preferen*e for si3-in*! fusesAC >ust as . tum led into t!e (ur&is! redou t, t!e eig!t !undred pounds of stuff e3ploded in one urst, and t!e la*& air e*ame si ilant wit! flying stones# (!e e3plosion was num ing from my twenty yards, and must !ave een !eard !alf-way to Damas*us# 0uri, in great distress, soug!t me out# $e !ad given t!e ?all *lear? signal efore learning t!at one *ompany of mounted infantry was missin g# :ortunately my guards were a*!ing for redeeming servi*e# (alal el $areid!in too& t!em wit! !im up t!e !ills, w!ile 0uri and . stood y t!e yawning pit w!i*! !ad een t!e ridge, and flas!ed an ele*tri* tor*!, to give t!em a fi3ed point for t!eir return# Ma!mud *ame a*& in !alf an !our triump!antly leading t!e lost unit# 'e fired s!ots to re*all t!e ot!er sear*!ers, and t!en rode two or t!ree miles into t!e open towards 9mtaiye# (!e going e*ame very ro&en, over moraines of slipping dolerite- so we gladly *alled a !alt, and lay down in our ran&s for an earned sleep#

&()PTE" &.III
$owever, it seemed t!at 0asir and . were to lose t!e !a it of sleeping# 8ur noise at 0isi !ad pro*laimed us as widely as t!e flames of Me+eri # $ardly were we still w!en visitors *ame streaming in from t!ree sides to dis*uss t!e latest events# .t was eing rumoured t!at we were raiding, and not o**upying) t!at later we would run away, as !ad t!e %ritis! from Salt, leaving our lo*al friends to pay t!e ills# (!e nig!t, for !our after !our, was ro&en y t!ese new-*omers *!allenging round our ivoua*s, *rying t!eir way to us li&e lost souls) and, peasant-fas!ion, slo ering over our !ands wit! protestations t!at we were t!eir !ig!est lords and t!ey our deepest servants# ,er!aps t!e re*eption of t!em fell s!ort of our usual standard) ut, in revenge, t!ey were applying t!e torture of &eeping us awa&e, uneasily awa&e# 'e !ad een at strain for t!ree days and nig!ts) t!in&ing, ordering and e3e*uting) and now, on our road to rest, it was itter to play away t!is fourt! nig!t also, at t!e old la*&-lustre, du ious game of ma&ing friends# And t!eir s!a&en morale impressed us worse and worse, till 0asir drew me aside and w!ispered t!at *learly t!ere e3isted a fo*us of dis*ontent in some *entre near# . loosed out my peasant odyguards to mi3 wit! t!e villagers and find t!e trut!) and from t!eir reports it seemed t!at t!e *ause of distrust lay in t!e first settlement, at (aiyi e, w!i*! !ad een s!a&en y t!e return of /oy*e?s armoured *ars yesterday, y some *!an*e in*idents, and y a >ust fear t!at t!ey were t!e spot most e3posed in our retreat# . *alled A+i+, and we rode straig!t to (aiyi e, over roug! stret*!es of lava, tra*&less, and piled a*ross wit! walls of ro&en stone# .n t!e !ead-man?s !ut sat t!e *on*lave w!i*! infe*ted our visitors# (!ey were de ating w!om to send to implore mer*y from t!e (ur&s) w!en we wal&ed in unannoun*ed# 8ur

single *oming a as!ed t!em, in its assumption of supreme se*urity# 'e tal&ed irrelevantly an !our, of *rops and farmyard pri*es, and dran& some *offee- t!en rose to go# %e!ind us t!e a le ro&e out again) ut now t!eir in*onstant spirits !ad veered to w!at seemed our stronger wind, and t!ey sent no word to t!e enemy) t!oug! ne3t day t!ey were om ed and s!elled for su*! stu orn *ompli*ity wit! us# 'e got a*& efore dawn, and stret*!ed out to sleep- w!en t!ere *ame a loud oom from t!e railway, and a s!ell s!attered eyond our sleeping !ost# (!e (ur&s !ad sent down an armoured train mounting a field-gun# %y myself . would !ave *!an*ed its aim, for my sleep !ad een >ust long enoug! to ma&e me rage for more- ut t!e army !ad slept si3 !ours and was moving# 'e !urried a*ross t!e !orri le going# An aeroplane *ame over, and *ir*led round to !elp t!e gunners# S!ells egan to &eep a**urate pa*e wit! our line of mar*!# 'e dou led our speed, and ro&e into a ragged pro*ession of very open order# (!e dire*ting aeroplane faltered suddenly, swerved aside towards t!e line, and seemed to land# (!e gun put in one more lu*&y s!ot, w!i*! &illed two *amels) ut for t!e rest it lost a**ura*y, and after a out fifty s!ots we drew out of range# .t egan to punis! (aiyi e# /oy*e, at 9mtaiye, !ad een roused y t!e s!ooting, and *ame out to wel*ome us# %e!ind !is tall figure t!e ruins were *rested y a motley and, samples from every village and tri e in t!e $auran, *ome to do !omage and offer at least lip-servi*e# (o 0asir?s tired disgust . left t!ese to !im, w!ile . went off wit! /oy*e and 'interton, telling t!em of t!e landed aeroplane, and suggesting t!at an armoured *ar eat it up at !ome# /ust t!en two more enemy ma*!ines appeared and landed in a out t!e same pla*e# $owever rea&fast, our first for some w!ile, was getting ready# So we sat down and /oy*e related !ow t!e men of (aiyi e !ad fired at !im as !e passed y, presuma ly to s!ow t!eir opinion of strangers w!o stirred up a !ornet?s nest of (ur&s, and t!en !opped it# %rea&fast ended# 'e *alled for a volunteer *ar to investigate t!e enemy aerodrome# 4very ody *ame forward wit! a silent goodwill and readiness w!i*! *aug!t me y t!e t!roat# :inally /oy*e *!ose two *ars--one for /unor and one for me--and we drove for five miles to t!e valley in w!ose mout! t!e planes !ad seemed to land# 'e silen*ed t!e *ars and *rept down its *ourse# '!en a out two t!ousand yards from t!e railway, it ent round into a flat meadow, y w!ose furt!er side stood t!ree ma*!ines# (!is was magnifi*ent, and we leaped forward, to meet a deep dit*! wit! straig!t an&s of *ra*&ing eart!, @uite impassa le# 'e ra*ed franti*ally along it, y a diagonal route, till we were wit!in twelve !undred yards# As we stopped two of t!e aeroplanes started# 'e opened fire, sear*!ing t!e range y dust spurts, ut already t!ey !ad run t!eir distan*e and were off, swaying and *lattering up a*ross t!e s&y over our !eads# (!e t!ird engine was sul&y# .ts pilot and o server savagely pulled t!e propeller round, w!ile we ranged nearer# :inally t!ey leaped into t!e railway dit*! as we put ullet after ullet into t!e fuselage till it dan*ed under t!e rain# 'e fired fifteen !undred ullets at our target Bt!ey urned it in t!e afternoonC and t!en turned !ome# 9nfortunately t!e two es*aped ma*!ines !ad !ad time to go to Deraa, and return, feeling spiteful# 8ne was not *lever and dropped !is four om s from a !eig!t, missing us widely# (!e ot!er swooped low, pla*ing one om ea*! time wit! t!e utmost *are# 'e *rept on defen*elessly, slowly, among t!e stones, feeling li&e sardines in a doomed tin, as t!e om s fell *loser# 8ne sent a s!ower of small stuff t!roug! t!e driving slit of t!e *ar, ut only *ut our &nu*&les# 8ne tore off a front tyre and nearly lur*!ed t!e *ar over# 8f all danger give me t!e solitary sort# $owever we rea*!ed 9mtaiye well and reported su**ess to /oy*e# 'e !ad proved to t!e (ur&s t!at t!at aerodrome was not fit for use) and Deraa lay e@ually open to *ar atta*&# 2ater . lay in t!e s!adow of a *ar and slept) all t!e Ara s in t!e desert, and t!e (ur&is! aeroplanes w!i*! *ame and om ed us, !aving no effe*t upon my pea*e# .n t!e *las! of events men

e*ame feveris!ly tireless- ut to-day we !ad finis!ed our first round, fortunately) and it was ne*essary t!at . rest, to *lear my mind a out our ne3t moves# As usual w!en . lay down . dropped asleep, and slept till afternoon# Strategi*ally, our usiness was to !old on to 9mtaiye, w!i*! gave us *ommand at will of Deraa?s t!ree railways# .f we !eld it anot!er wee& we s!ould strangle t!e (ur&is! armies, !owever little Allen y did# 1et ta*ti*ally 9mtaiye was a dangerous pla*e# An inferior for*e *omposed e3*lusively of regulars, wit!out a guerilla s*reen, *ould not safely !old it- yet to t!at we s!ould s!ortly e redu*ed, if our air !elplessness *ontinued patent# (!e (ur&s !ad at least nine ma*!ines# 'e were *amped twelve miles from t!eir aerodrome, in t!e open desert, a out t!e only possi le water-supply, wit! great !erds of *amels and many !orses ne*essarily gra+ing round us# (!e (ur&s? eginning of om ing !ad een enoug! to dis@uiet t!e irregulars w!o were our eyes and ears# Soon t!ey would rea& up and go !ome, and our usefulness e ended- (aiyi e, too, t!at first village w!i*! *overed us from Deraa--it lay defen*eless and @uivering under repeated atta*&# .f we were to remain in 9mtaiye, (aiyi e must e *ontent wit! us# Clearly our first duty was to get air reinfor*ement from Allen y, w!o !ad arranged to send a news ma*!ine to A+ra& on t!e day after to-morrow# . >udged it would e profita le for me to go a*ross and tal& wit! !im# . *ould e a*& on t!e twenty-se*ond# 9mtaiye would !old out so long, for we mig!t always fo3 t!e aeroplanes a w!ile y moving to 9m el Sura , t!e ne3t "oman village# '!et!er at 9mtaiye or 9m el Sura , to e safe we must &eep t!e initiative# (!e Deraa side was temporarily *losed y t!e suspi*ion of t!e peasants- t!ere remained t!e $e>a+ line# (!e ridge at ;ilometre 1I9 was nearly mended# 'e must smas! it again, and smas! anot!er to t!e sout!, to deny t!e repair trains a**ess to it# An effort y 'interton yesterday s!owed t!at t!e first was a matter for troops and guns# (!e se*ond was o >e*tive for a raid# . went a*ross to see if my odyguard *ould do it wit! me on our way to A+ra&# Somet!ing was wrong# (!ey were red-eyed, !esitant, trem ling- at last . understood t!at w!ile . was away in t!e morning t!e Gaagi, A dulla and t!eir ot!er *!iefs !ad gone mer*ilessly t!roug! t!e tally of t!ose w!o flin*!ed at 0isi # .t was t!eir rig!t, for sin*e (afile! . !ad left its dis*ipline to t!e *ompany itself) ut t!e effe*t for t!e moment was to ma&e t!em useless for my purpose# Su*! punis!ment was pre*eded y fear- ut t!e memory of its infli*tion provo&ed wilder lawlessness among t!e stronger vi*tims, and a li&eli!ood of *rimes of violen*e among t!e witnesses# (!ey would !ave een dangerous to me, to t!emselves, or to t!e enemy, as w!im and opportunity provided, !ad we gone t!at nig!t into a*tion# So, instead, . suggested to /oy*e t!at t!e 4gyptians and G!ur&as return to A&a a) proposing furt!er t!at !e lend me an armoured *ar to go down wit! t!em to t!e railway, t!eir first stage, and do w!at *ould e done# 'e went up to 0asir and 0uri Said, and told t!em . would e a*& on t!e twentyse*ond wit! fig!ting ma*!ines, to deliver us from air-s*outs and om ing# Meanw!ile we would salve (aiyi e wit! money for t!e (ur&is! damage, and /oy*e would ma&e landing-grounds, !ere and at 9m el Sura , against my return wit! our air reinfor*ements# (!e demolition of t!at nig!t was a fantasti* muddle# 'e moved at sunset to an open valley, t!ree easy miles from t!e railway# (rou le mig!t t!reaten from Mafra& station# My armoured *ar, wit! /unor attendant in !is :ord, would guard t!at side against !ostile advan*e# (!e 4gyptians would move dire*t to t!e line, and fire t!eir *!arges# My guiding fell t!roug!# 'e wandered for t!ree !ours in a ma+e of valleys, not a le to find t!e railway, nor t!e 4gyptians, nor our starting-point# At last we saw a lig!t and drove for it, to find ourselves in front of Mafra&# 'e turned a*& to get into pla*e, and !eard t!e *lan& of an engine running nort!ward out of t!e station# 'e *!ased its intermittent flame, !oping to *at*! it etween us and t!e ro&en ridge- ut efore we overtoo& it t!ere *ame flas!es and e3plosions far up, as ,ea&e fired !is t!irty *!arges#

Some mounted men galloped !eadlong past us, sout!ward# 'e fired at t!em, and t!en t!e patrolling train returned, a*&ing at its est speed from ,ea&e?s danger# 'e ran alongside, and opened on t!e tra*&s wit! our <i*&ers, w!ile /unor sent a green s!ower of tra*er ullets from !is 2ewis a*ross t!e dar&# A ove our s!ooting and t!e noise of t!e engine we !eard t!e (ur&s !owling wit! terror of t!is luminous atta*&# (!ey fired a*& raggedly, ut as t!ey did so t!e ig *ar suddenly snee+ed and stood still# A ullet !ad pier*ed t!e unarmoured end of t!e petrol tan&, t!e only unarmoured spot of all our team of *ars# .t too& us an !our to plug t!e lea&# (!en we drove along t!e silent line to t!e twisted rails and gaping *ulverts, ut *ould not find our friends# So we drew a mile a*&, and t!ere at last . !ad my sleep out, t!ree perfe*t !ours of it efore t!e dawn# . awo&e fres!, and re*ogni+ed our pla*e# ,ro a ly it was only t!e fift! sleepless nig!t w!i*! !ad made my wits woolly# 'e pus!ed forward, passing t!e 4gyptians wit! t!e G!ur&as, and rea*!ed A+ra& in t!e early afternoon# (!ere were :eisal and 0uri S!aalan, eager to !ear our news# 'e e3plained parti*ularly) and t!en . went over to Mars!all, in t!e temporary !ospital# $e !ad all our adly-wounded in !is @uiet *are- ut t!ey were fewer t!an !e !ad e3pe*ted, so !e was a le to spare me a stret*!er for my ed# At dawn /oy*e une3pe*tedly arrived# $e !ad made up !is mind t!at in t!is lull it was !is duty to go down to A a el 2issan to !elp Geid and /aafar efore Maan, and to press forward $orn y among t!e %eni Sa&!r# (!en t!e plane from ,alestine arrived, and we !eard t!e ama+ing first *!roni*le of Allen y?s vi*tory# $e !ad smas!ed and urst t!roug! and driven t!e (ur&s in*on*eiva ly# (!e fa*e of our war was *!anged, and we gave !urried word of it to :eisal, wit! *ounsels of t!e general revolt to ta&e profit of t!e situation# An !our later . was safely in ,alestine# :rom "amle! t!e Air :or*e gave me a *ar up to $ead@uarters) and t!ere . found t!e great man unmoved, e3*ept for t!e lig!t in !is eye as %ols ustled in every fifteen minutes, wit! news of some wider su**ess# Allen y !ad een so sure, efore !e started, t!at to !im t!e result was almost oredomut no general, !owever s*ientifi*, *ould see !is intri*ate plan *arried out over an enormous field in every parti*ular wit! *omplete su**ess, and not &now an inward gladness- espe*ially w!en !e felt it Bas !e must !ave felt itC a reward of t!e readt! and >udgement w!i*! made !im *on*eive su*! unort!odo3 movements) and rea& up t!e proper oo& of !is administrative servi*es to suit t!em) and support t!em y every moral and material asset, military or politi*al, wit!in !is grasp# $e s&et*!ed to me !is ne3t intentions# $istori* ,alestine was !is, and t!e ro&en (ur&s, in t!e !ills, e3pe*ted a sla*&ening of t!e pursuit# 0ot at allA %art!olomew and 4vans were prepared to provision t!ree more t!rusts- one a*ross /ordan to Amman, to e done y C!aytor?s 0ew Gealanders) one a*ross /ordan to Deraa, to e done y %arrow and !is .ndians) one a*ross /ordan to ;uneitra, to e done y C!auvel?s Australians# C!aytor would rest at Amman) %arrow and C!auvel on attaining t!e first o >e*tives would *onverge on Damas*us# 'e were to assist t!e t!ree- and . was not to *arry out my sau*y t!reat to ta&e Damas*us, till we were all toget!er# . e3plained our prospe*ts, and !ow everyt!ing was eing wre*&ed y air-impoten*e# $e pressed a ell and in a few minutes Salmond and %orton were *onferring wit! us# (!eir ma*!ines !ad ta&en an indispensa le part in Allen y?s s*!eme Bt!e perfe*tion of t!is man w!o *ould use infantry and *avalry, artillery and Air :or*e, 0avy and armoured *ars, de*eptions and irregulars, ea*! in its est fas!ionACand !ad fulfilled it# (!ere were no more (ur&s in t!e s&y--e3*ept on our side, as . !urriedly interpolated# So mu*! t!e etter, said Salmond) t!ey would send two %ristol fig!ters over to 9mtaiye to sit wit! us w!ile we needed t!em# $ad we sparesJ ,etrolJ 0ot a dropJ $ow was it to e got t!ereJ 8nly y airJ An air-*ontained fig!ting unitJ 9n!eard ofA $owever, Salmond and %orton were men avid of novelty# (!ey wor&ed out loads for D#$#g and $andley-,age, w!ile Allen y sat y, listening and smiling, sure it would e done# (!e *o-operation of t!e air wit! !is unfolding s*!eme !ad een so ready and elasti*, t!e liaison so *omplete and informed and @ui*&# .t was t!e "#A#:#, w!i*! !ad *onverted t!e (ur&is! retreat into rout, w!i*! !ad a olis!ed t!eir telep!one and telegrap! *onne*tions, !ad lo*&ed t!eir lorry *olumns, s*attered t!eir infantry units#

(!e Air *!iefs turned on me and as&ed if our landing-grounds were good enoug! for a $andley-,age wit! full load# . !ad seen t!e ig ma*!ine on*e in its s!ed, ut un!esitatingly said ?1es? t!oug! t!ey !ad etter send an e3pert over wit! me in t!e %ristols to-morrow and ma&e sure# $e mig!t e a*& y noon, and t!e $andley *ome at t!ree o?*lo*&# Salmond got up- (!at?s all rig!t, Sir, we?ll do t!e ne*essary#? . went out and rea&fasted# Allen y?s !ead@uarter was a perfe*t pla*e- a *ool, airy, w!itewas!ed !ouse, proofed against flies, and made musi*al y t!e moving of t!e wind in t!e trees outside# . felt immoral, en>oying w!ite ta le*lot!s, and *offee, and soldier servants, w!ile our people at 9mtaiye lay li&e li+ards among t!e stones, eating unleavened read, and waiting for t!e ne3t plane to om t!em# . felt restless as t!e dusty sunlig!t w!i*! splas!ed a diaper over t!e pat!s, t!roug! *!in&s in t!e leaves) e*ause, after a long spell of t!e restrained desert, flowers and grass seemed to fidget, and t!e everyw!ere- urgeoning green of tilt! e*ame vulgar, in its fe*undity# $owever, Clayton and Deedes and Dawnay were friendliness itself, and also t!e Air :or*e staff) w!ile t!e good *!eer and *ons*ious strengt! of t!e Commander-in-C!ief was a at! of *omfort to a weary person after long strained days# %art!olomew moved maps a out, e3plaining w!at t!ey would do# . added to !is &nowledge of t!e enemy, for . was !is est served intelligen*e offi*er- and in return !is perspe*tive s!owed me t!e vi*tory sure, w!atever !appened to our strained little stop- lo*& over t!ere# 1et it seemed to me t!at in t!e Ara !ands lay an option, w!et!er to let t!is vi*tory e >ust one more vi*tory, or, y ris&ing t!emselves on*e more, to ma&e it final# 0ot t!at, so stated, it was a real option- ut, w!en ody and spirit were as wearily si*& as mine, t!ey almost instin*tively soug!t a plausi le avoidan*e of t!e way of danger#

&()PTE" &.I+
%efore dawn, on t!e Australian aerodrome, stood two %ristols and a D#$#g# .n one was "oss Smit!, my old pilot, w!o !ad een pi*&ed out to fly t!e new $andley-,age, t!e single ma*!ine of its *lass in 4gypt, t!e apple of Salmond?s eye# $is lending it to fly over t!e enemy line on so low an errand as aggage *arrying, was a measure of t!e goodwill toward us# 'e rea*!ed 9mtaiye in an !our, and saw t!at t!e army !ad gone- so . waved ourselves a*& to 9rn el Sura ) and t!ere t!ey were, t!e defensive group of *ars, and Ara s !iding from our suspe*t noise !ere, t!ere and everyw!ere) t!e *ute *amels dispersed singly over t!e plain, filling t!emselves wit! t!e wonderful gra+ing# 1oung, w!en !e saw our mar&ings, put a landing-signal and smo&e om s on t!e turf w!i*! !is *are and 0uri Said?s !ad swept *lear of stones# "oss Smit! an3iously pa*ed t!e lengt! and readt! of t!e prepared spa*e, and studied its imperfe*tions- ut re>oined us, w!ere t!e drivers were ma&ing rea&fast, wit! a *lear fa*e# (!e ground was 8#;# for t!e $andley-,age# 1oung told us of repeated om ings yesterday and t!e day efore, w!i*! !ad &illed some regulars and some of ,isani?s gunners and tired t!e life out of everyone, so t!at t!ey moved in t!e nig!t to 9m el Sura # (!e idiot (ur&s were still om ing 9mtaiye t!oug! men went to it only in t!e neutral noons and nig!ts to draw water# Also . !eard of 'interton?s last lowing up of t!e railway- an amusing nig!t, in w!i*! !e !ad met an un&nown soldier and e3plained to !im in ro&en Ara i* !ow well t!ey were getting on# (!e soldier !ad t!an&ed God for $is mer*ies, and disappeared in t!e dar&) w!en*e a moment later, ma*!ine-gun fire opened from left and rig!tA 0evert!eless, 'interton !ad fired all !is *!arges, and wit!drawn in good order wit!out loss# 0asir *ame to us, and reported t!is man !urt, and t!at &illed, t!is *lan getting ready, t!ose already >oined, ut ot!ers gone !ome--all t!e gossip of t!e *ountry# (!e t!ree s!ining aeroplanes !ad mu*! restored t!e Ara s, w!o lauded t!e %ritis!, and t!eir own ravery and enduran*e, w!ile . told t!em t!e s*ar*e-*redi le epi* of Allen y?s su**ess--0a lus ta&en, Afule! ta&en, %eisan and Sema&! and $aifa# My !earers? minds drew after me li&e flames# (allal too& fire, oasting) w!ile t!e "ualla s!outed for instant mar*! upon Damas*us# 4ven my odyguard, still earing witness of t!e Gaagi?s severity in t!eir muddy eyes and *onstrained fa*es, *!eered up and

egan to preen a little efore t!e *rowd, wit! a dawn of !appiness# A s!iver of self-assertion and *onfiden*e ran a*ross t!e *amp# . determined to ring up :eisal and 0uri S!aalan for t!e final effort# Meanw!ile it was rea&fast time wit! a smell of sausage in t!e air# 'e sat round, very ready- ut t!e wat*!er on t!e ro&en tower yelled ?Aeroplane up?, seeing one *oming over from Deraa# 8ur Australians, s*ram ling wildly to t!eir yet-!ot ma*!ines, started t!em in a moment# "oss Smit!, wit! !is o server, leaped into one, and *lim ed li&e a *at up t!e s&y# After !im went ,eters, w!ile t!e t!ird pilot stood eside t!e D#$#g and loo&ed !ard at me# . seemed not to understand !im# 2ewis guns, s*arfe mountings, sig!ts, rings w!i*! turned, vanes, &no s w!i*! rose and fell on swinging parallel ars) to s!oot, one aimed wit! t!is side of t!e ring or wit! t!at, a**ording to t!e varied speed and dire*tion of oneself and t!e enemy# . !ad een told t!e t!eory, *ould repeat some of it- ut it was in my !ead, and rules of a*tion were only snares of a*tion till t!ey !ad run out of t!e empty !ead into t!e !ands, y use# 0o- . was not going up to air-fig!t, no matter w!at *aste . lost wit! t!e pilot# $e was an Australian, of a ra*e delig!ting in additional ris&s, not an Ara to w!ose gallery . must play# $e was too respe*tful to spea&- only !e loo&ed reproa*! at me w!ile we wat*!ed t!e attle in t!e air# (!ere were one enemy two-seater and t!ree s*outs# "oss Smit! fastened on t!e ig one,and, after five minutes of s!arp ma*!ine-gun rattle, t!e German dived suddenly towards t!e railway line# As it flas!ed e!ind t!e low ridge, t!ere ro&e out a pennon of smo&e, and from its falling pla*e a soft, dar& *loud# An ?A!A? *ame from t!e Ara s a out us# :ive minutes later "oss Smit! was a*&, and >umped gaily out of !is ma*!ine, swearing t!at t!e Ara front was t!e pla*e# 8ur sausages were still !ot) we ate t!em, and dran& tea Bour last 4nglis! stores, roa*!ed for t!e visitorsC, ut were !ardly at t!e grapes from /e el Druse w!en again t!e wat*!man tossed up !is *loa& and s*reamed, ?A planeA? (!is time ,eters won t!e ra*e, "oss Smit! se*ond, wit! (raill, dis*onsolate, in reserve- ut t!e s!y enemy turned a*& so soon t!at ,eters did not *at*! t!em till near Arar- t!ere !e drove down !is @uarry, fig!ting# 2ater, w!en t!e wave of war rolled t!it!er, we found t!e !opeless *ras!, and two *!arred German odies# "oss Smit! wis!ed !e mig!t stay for ever on t!is Ara front wit! an enemy every !alf-!our) and deeply envied ,eters !is *oming days# $owever, !e must go a*& for t!e $andley-,age wit! petrol, food and spares# (!e t!ird plane was for A+ra&, to get t!e o server marooned t!ere yesterday) and . went in it so far, to see :eisal# (ime e*ame spa*ious to t!ose w!o flew- we were in A+ra& t!irty !ours after leaving it# G!ur&as and 4gyptians . turned a*& to re>oin t!e army, for new demolitions in t!e nort!# (!en, wit! :eisal and 0uri S!aalan, . pa*&ed into t!e green <au3!all, and off we went for 9m el Sura to see t!e $andley,age alig!t# 'e ran at speed over t!e smoot! flint or mud-flat, letting t!e strong *ar t!ro itself fully- ut lu*& was !ostile# A dispute was reported us, and we !ad to turn aside to a lo*al Sera!in *amp# $owever, we made profit of our loss, y ordering t!eir fig!ting men to 9mtaiye- and we !ad t!em send word of vi*tory a*ross t!e railway, t!at t!e roads t!roug! t!e A>lun !ills mig!t e *losed to t!e ro&en (ur&is! armies, trying to es*ape into safety# (!en our *ar flas!ed nort!ward again# (wenty miles s!ort of 9m el Sura we per*eived a single %edawi, running sout!ward all in a flutter, !is grey !air and grey eard flying in t!e wind, and !is s!irt Btu*&ed up in !is elly-*ordC puffing out e!ind !im# $e altered *ourse to pass near us, and, raising !is ony arms, yelled, (!e iggest aeroplane in t!e world?, efore !e flapped on into t!e sout!, to spread !is great news among t!e tents# At 9m el Sura t!e $andley stood ma>esti* on t!e grass, wit! %ristols and 9#A--li&e fledglings eneat! its spread of wings# "ound it admired t!e Ara s, saying, ?.ndeed and at last t!ey !ave sent us the aeroplane, of w!i*! t!ese t!ings were foals?# %efore nig!t rumour of :eisal?s resour*e went over /e el Druse and t!e !ollow of $auran, telling people t!at t!e alan*e was weig!ted on our side#

%orton !imself !ad *ome over in t!e ma*!ine, to *on*ert !elp# 'e tal&ed wit! !im w!ile our men drew from !er om -ra*&s and fuselage a ton of petrol) oil and spare parts for %ristol :ig!ters) tea and sugar and rations for our men) letters, "euter telegrams and medi*ines for us# (!en t!e great ma*!ine rose into t!e early dus&, for "amle!, wit! an agreed programme of nig!t- om ing against Deraa and Mafra&, to *omplete t!at ruin of t!e railway traffi* w!i*! our gun-*otton !ad egun# 'e, for our s!are, would &eep up t!e gun-*otton pressure# Allen y !ad assigned us t!e (ur&is! :ourt! Army, to !arass and *ontain till C!aytor for*ed t!em out of Amman) and afterwards to *ut up, on t!eir retreat# (!is retreat was only an affair of days, and it was as *ertain as t!ings *ould e in war t!at we s!ould raise t!e plains etween us and Damas*us ne3t wee&# So :eisal de*ided to add to our *olumn 0uri S!aalan?s "ualla *amel men from A+ra&# .t would in*rease us to a out four t!ousand strong, more t!an t!ree-fourt!s irregular) ut relia ly so, for 0uri, t!e !ard, silent, *yni*al old man, !eld t!e tri e etween !is fingers li &e a tool# $e was t!at rarity in t!e desert, a man wit!out sense of argument# $e would or would not, and t!ere was no more to it# '!en ot!ers finis!ed tal&ing, !e would announ*e !is will in a few flat p!rases, and wait *almly for o edien*e) w!i*! *ame, for !e was feared# $e was old and wise, w!i*! meant tired and disappointed- so old t!at it was my a iding wonder !e s!ould lin& !imself to our ent!usiasm# . rested ne3t day in 0asir?s tent, among !is peasant visitors) sorting out t!e too-a undant news furnis!ed y t!eir @ui*& wit and goodwill# During my rest-day, 0uri Said, wit! ,isani and two guns, Stirling, 'interton, 1oung, t!eir armoured *ars, and a *onsidera le for*e, went openly to t!e railway, *leared it y approved military means, destroyed a &ilometre of rail, and urnt the tentative wooden stru*ture wit! w!i*! t!e (ur&s were mending t!e ridge lown up y /oy*e and myself efore our first atta*& on Deraa# 0uri S!aalan, in la*& road*lot! *loa&, personally led !is "ualla !orsemen, galloping wit! t!e est of t!em# 9nder !is eye t!e tri e s!owed a valour w!i*! drew praise even from 0uri Said#

&()PTE" &.+
0un?s operation of to-day was t!e (ur&s? final low, after w!i*! t!ey gave up trying to restore t!e line etween Amman and Deraa# 'e did not &now t!is, ut still !ad its ogy set over us, and were urgent to put out of a*tion a yet longer stret*!# A**ordingly, ne3t dawn, 'interton, /emil and . went out on *ars to e3amine t!e line sout! of Mafra& station# 'e were re*eived wit! ma*!ine-gun fire of a vigour, dire*tion and intensity eyond any of our e3perien*e# 2ater we *aptured t!e e3perts and found t!ey were a German ma*!ine-gun unit# :or t!e moment we drew out, pu++led, and went furt!er to a tempting ridge# My plan was to run under it in t!e *ar till t!e vault ena led us to lay t!e *!arge against t!e pier in s!elter# So . transferred myself to an armoured *ar, put si3ty pounds of gun-*otton on t!e a*&- oard, and told t!e driver to pus! in under t!e ar*!# 'interton and /emil *ame e!ind in t!e supporting *ar# ?.t?s very !ot,? groaned /emil# ?.t?s going to e still !otter w!ere we?re going,? replied 'interton, as we drew in slowly over indifferent ground wit! aimless s!ells falling a out# 'e were pi*&ing our way forward, a out fifty yards from t!e an&, wit! enoug! ma*!ine-gun ullets for a wee&?s fig!ting rattling off our armour, w!en someone from e!ind t!e line owled a !and grenade at us# (!is new *ondition made impossi le my plan of getting under t!e ridge# :or one t!ing, a !it on t!e a*& of t!e *ar would !ave set off our gun-*otton and lown us to la+es) for anot!er, t!e *ar was !elpless against a lo ed grenade# So we drew off, perple3ed to understand t!is defen*e lavis!ed on a it of railway, and mu*! interested, indeed amused, at wort!y opposition after so long ease# .n our imaginations, C!e*& was a s!ort, *ompa*t, furious man, darting glan*es every way from eneat! tangled eye rows, for an end to !is trou les) eside !im <i*tory seemed a lan&y, w!ite-s&inned, rat!er languid woman# 'e must try again after dar&# At 9m el Sura we found t!at 0asir wis!ed to fi3 *amp on*e more at 9mtaiye# .t was a first stage of our >ourney to Damas*us, so !is wis! delig!ted me, and we moved) winning t!ere y good e3*use for doing not!ing t!is nig!t to t!e line# .nstead, we sat and

told stories of e3perien*e and waited for midnig!t, w!en t!e $andley-,age was to om Mafra& station# .t *ame, and !undred-pound om after !undred-pound om *ras!ed into t!e pa*&ed sidings till t!ey *aug!t fire, and t!e (ur&s? s!ooting stopped# 'e slept, !aving given pri+e of t!e nig!t to a tale of 4nver ,as!a, after t!e (ur&s re-too& S!ar&eui# $e went to see it, in a penny steamer, wit! ,rin*e /emil and a gorgeous staff# (!e %ulgars, w!en t!ey *ame, !ad massa*red t!e (ur&s) as t!ey retired t!e %ulgar peasants went too# So t!e (ur&s found !ardly any one to &ill# A grey eard was led on oard for t!e Commander-in-C!ief to ait# At last 4nver tired of t!is# $e signed to two of !is ravo aides, and t!rowing open t!e furna*e door, said, (us! !im in?# (!e old man s*reamed, ut t!e offi*ers were stronger and t!e door was slammed-to on !is >er&ing ody# ?'e turned, feeling si*&, to go away, ut 4nver, !is !ead on one side, listening, !alted us# So we listened, till t!ere *ame a *ras! wit!in t!e furna*e# $e smiled and nodded, saying, ?(!eir !eads always pop, li&e t!at#? All nig!t, and ne3t day, t!e fire among t!e tru*&s urned greater and greater# .t was proof of t!e rea&down of t!e (ur&s, w!i*! t!e Ara s !ad een rumouring sin*e yesterday# (!ey said t!e :ourt! Army was streaming up from Amman in a loose mo # (!e %eni $assan, w!o were *utting off stragglers and wea& deta*!ments, *ompared t!em to gipsies on t!e mar*!# 'e !eld a *oun*il# 8ur wor& against t!e :ourt! Army was finis!ed# Su*! remnants as avoided out of t!e !ands of t!e Ara s would rea*! Deraa as unarmed stragglers# 8ur new endeavour s!ould e to for*e t!e @ui*& eva*uation of Deraa, in order to prevent t!e (ur&s t!ere reforming t!e fugitives into a rearguard# So . proposed t!at we mar*! nort!, past (ell Arar, and over t!e railway at dawn to-morrow, into S!ei&! Saad village# .t lay in familiar *ountry wit! a undant water, perfe*t o servation, and a se*ure retreat west or nort!, or even sout!-west, if we were dire*tly atta*&ed# .t *ut off Deraa from Damas*us) and Me+eri also# (allal se*onded me wit! fervour# 0uri S!aalan gave !is nod- 0asir and 0uri Said# So we prepared to stri&e *amp# (!e armoured *ars *ould not *ome wit! us# (!ey !ad etter stay in A+ra&, till Deraa fell and we wanted t!em to !elp us into Damas*us# (!e %ristol :ig!ters, li&ewise, !ad done t!eir wor&, *learing t!e air of (ur&is! aeroplanes# (!ey mig!t return to ,alestine wit! news of our move to S!ei&! Saad# 8ff t!ey *ir*led# 'e, wat*!ing t!eir line of flig!t, noti*ed a great *loud of dust added to t!e slow smo&e from ruined Mafra&# 8ne ma*!ine turned a*& and dropped a s*ri le t!at a large ody of !ostile *avalry were !eading out from t!e railway towards us# (!is was unwel*ome news, for we were not in trim for a fig!t# (!e *ars !ad gone, t!e aeroplanes !ad gone, one *ompany of t!e mounted infantry !ad mar*!ed, ,isani?s mules were pa*&ed and drawn up in *olumn# . went off to 0uri Said, standing wit! 0asir on an as! !eap at t!e !ead of t!e !ill, and we wavered w!et!er to run or stand# At last it seemed wiser to run, sin*e S!ei&! Saad was a more profita le stop- lo*&# So we !urried t!e regulars away# 1et t!ings *ould !ardly e left li&e t!at# A**ordingly 0uri S!aalan and (allal led t!e "ualla !orse and t!e $auran !orse a*& to delay t!e pursuit# (!ey !ad an une3pe*ted ally, for our *ars, on t!eir way to A+ra&, !ad seen t!e enemy# After all, t!e (ur&s were not *avalry *oming to atta*& us, ut deluded elements see&ing a s!orter way !ome# 'e too& some !undreds of t!irsty prisoners and mu*! transport) *ausing su*! pani* t!at t!e main rout in t!e plain *ut t!e tra*es of t!eir lim ers and rode off on t!e are !orses# (!e infe*tion of terror spread down t!e line, and troops miles from any Ara interferen*e t!rew away all t!ey !ad, even to t!eir rifles, and made a mad rus! towards supposed safety in Deraa# $owever, t!is interruption delayed us) for we *ould !ardly mar*! a &!a&i-*lad ody of regular *amel *orps a*ross $auran at nig!t wit!out enoug! lo*al *avalry to go ail to t!e suspi*ious villagers t!at we were not (ur&s# So late in t!e afternoon we !alted for (allal and 0asir and 0uri S!aalan to *at*! up#

(!is !alt gave some people time to review t!e pro*eedings, and new @uestions arose as to t!e wisdom of *rossing t!e railway again, to put ourselves in t!e dangerous position of S!ei&! Saad, astride t!e retreat of t!e main (ur&is! for*es# :inally, near midnig!t, Sa in appeared w!ere . lay awa&e in t!e midst of t!e army on my *arpet# $e suggested t!at we !ad done enoug!# Allen y !ad appointed us wat*!men of t!e :ourt! Army# 'e !ad >ust seen its disordered flig!t# 8ur duty was *ompleted) and we mig!t !onoura ly fall a*& to %osra, twenty miles out of t!e way to t!e east, w!ere t!e Druses were *olle*ting under 0esi el %e&ri to !elp us# 'e mig!t wait wit! t!em for t!e %ritis! to ta&e Deraa, and for our reward, in t!e vi*torious *lose of t!e *ampaign# (!is attitude passed me y, sin*e, if we wit!drew to /e el Druse, we ended our a*tive servi*e efore t!e game was won, leaving t!e last runt on Allen y# . was very >ealous for t!e Ara !onour, in w!ose servi*e . would go forward at all *osts# (!ey !ad >oined t!e war to win freedom, and t!e re*overy of t!eir old *apital y for*e of t!eir own arms was t!e sign t!ey would est understand# ?Duty?, li&e people w!o praised it, was a poor t!ing# 4vidently, y t!rusting e!ind Deraa into S!ei&! Saad we put more pressure on t!e (ur&s t!an any %ritis! unit was in pla*e to put# .t would for id t!e (ur&s fig!ting again t!is side of Damas*us) for w!i*! gain our few lives would e *!eap payment# Damas*us meant t!e end of t!is war in t!e 4ast, and, . elieved, t!e end of t!e general war, too) e*ause t!e Central ,owers eing inter-dependent, t!e rea&ing of t!eir wea&est lin&--(ur&ey--would swing t!e w!ole *luster loose# (!erefore, for every sensi le reason, strategi*al, ta*ti*al, politi*al, even moral, we were going on# Sa in?s stu orn resistant mind was not to e *onvin*ed# $e returned wit! ,isani and 'interton, and egan to de ate) spea&ing slowly e*ause 0uri Said was lying on t!e ne3t rug only !alf asleep, and !e wanted to in*lude !im in t!e *onferen*e# A**ordingly !e stressed t!e military aspe*t- our fulfilled purpose and t!e danger of t!e $e>a+ "ailway# (!is delay made us too late to *ross to-nig!t# (o-morrow it would e madness to attempt t!e operation# (!e line would e guarded from end to end y tens of t!ousands of (ur&s pouring out of Deraa# .f t!ey let us over we would only e in still greater danger# /oy*e, !e said, !ad appointed !im military adviser to t!e e3pedition) and it was !is duty to point out, relu*tantly, t!at as a regular offi*er !e &new !is usiness# $ad . een a regular offi*er . mig!t !ave found Sa in?s upsetting t!e ot!ers irregular# As it was . endured !is *omplaints, patiently sig!ing w!enever . t!oug!t it would irritate t!e protestant# At t!e end wanderingly . said . wanted to sleep, sin*e we would !ave to e up early to *ross t!e line, and it was my intention to go in front wit! my odyguard among t!e %eduin, w!erever t!ey were, for it was odd t!at 0uri S!aalan and (allal !ad not overta&en us# Anyway, . was going to sleep now# ,isani, w!ose long military life !ad een all as su ordinate, said wit! *orre*tness t!at !e too& !is orders and would follow# . li&ed !im for t!at, and tried to soot!e !is !onest dou ts y reminding !im t!at we !ad wor&ed for eig!teen mont!s toget!er wit!out !is ever finding *ause to *all me ras!# $e replied wit! a :ren*! laug! t!at !e t!oug!t it all very ras!, ut was a soldier# 'interton?s instin*t >oined !im to t!e wea&er and more sporting side in any *!oi*e ut fo3-!unting# 0uri Said !ad lain silently t!roug! our tal&, pretending to e asleep) ut, w!en Sa in went away, !e rolled over w!ispering, .s it trueJ? . replied t!at . saw no unusual ris& in *rossing t!e line in midafternoon, and wit! *are we s!ould avoid traps at S!ei&! Saad# $e lay a*& satisfied#

&()PTE" &.+I
0asir, 0uri S!aalan and (alal !ad overs!ot us in t!e dar&# 8ur >oined for*es mar*!ed, wit! a !eady ree+e in t!e teet!, nort!ward a*ross t!e ploug!lands? fat, !appy villages# 8ver t!e !arvested fields, w!ose straw !ad een rat!er plu*&ed t!an reaped, grew t!istles, tall as a *!ild, ut now yellow and dried and dead# (!e wind snapped t!em off at t!e !ollow root, and pit*!-polled t!eir ran*!y tops along t!e level ground, t!istle lowing against t!istle and interlo*&ing spines, till in !uge alls t!ey

*areered li&e run-away !ay*o*&s a*ross t!e fallow # Ara women, out wit! t!eir don&eys to fet*! water, ran to us, *rying t!at an aeroplane !ad landed a w!ile sin*e, near y# .t ore t!e round rings of t!e S!erifian *amel rand upon its ody# ,ea&e rode a*ross, to find two Australians w!ose %ristol !ad een !it in t!e radiator, over Deraa# (!ey were glad, t!oug! astonis!ed, to meet friends# After t!e lea& !ad een plugged, we levied water from t!e women, to fill t!em up, and t!ey flew !ome safely# Men rode up every minute and >oined us, w!ile from ea*! village t!e adventurous young ran out afoot to enter our ran&s# As we moved on, so *losely &nit in t!e golden sunlig!t, we were a le, in rare *!an*e, to see ourselves as a w!ole- @ui*&ly we e*ame a *!ara*ter, an organism, in w!ose pride ea*! of us was uplifted# 'e *ra*&ed awdy >o&es to set of f t!e en*ompassing eauty # At noon we entered water-melon fields# (!e army ran upon t!em, w!ile we spied out t!e line, w!i*! lay desertedly @uivering in t!e sunlig!t a!ead# As we wat*!ed a train passed down# 8nly last nig!t !ad t!e railway een mended- and t!is was t!e t!ird train# 'e moved wit!out opposition upon t!e line in a !orde two miles a*ross, and egan !astily to low up t!ings, anyone w!o !ad e3plosive using it as !e fan*ied# 8ur !undreds of novi*es were full of +eal and t!e demolitions, al eit uninstru*ted, were wide# Clearly our return !ad surprised t!e da+ed enemy- we must e3tend and improve t!is *!an*e# So we went to 0uri S!aalan, Auda, and (alal, and as&ed w!at lo*al effort ea*! would underta&e# (alal, t!e energeti*, would atta*& 4+raa, t!e ig grain depot to t!e nort!- Auda was for ;!ir et el G!a+ala, t!e *orresponding station sout!-ward- 0uri would sweep !is men down t!e main road, towards Deraa, on *!an*e of (ur&is! parties# (!ese were t!ree good ideas# (!e *!iefs went to put t!em into eing, w!ile we, pulling our *olumn to its s!ape again, pursued our road past t!e ruined *olony of S!ei&! Mis&in, very gaunt in t!e moonlig!t# .ts o sta*le of water dit*!es muddled our t!ousands, so t!at we !alted on t!e stu le plain eyond, for dawn# Some made fires against t!e penetrating mist of t!is *lay $auran- ot!ers slept as t!ey were on t!e dew-slimy ground# 2ost men went a out *alling t!eir friends, in t!at s!arp, fullt!roated wail of t!e Ara villager# (!e moon !ad set, and t!e world was la*& andvery *old# . roused my odyguard, w!o rode so ris&ly t!at we entered S!ei&! Saad wit! t!e dawn# As we passed etween t!e ro*&s into t!e field e!ind t!e trees, t!e eart! sprang to life again wit! t!e new sun# (!e morning airs flas!ed t!e olive-yards to silver, and men from a great goat-!air tent on t!e rig!t *alled us to guest wit! t!em# 'e as&ed w!ose *amp it was# ?. n Smeir?s? t!ey replied# (!is t!reatened *ompli*ations# "as!id was an enemy of 0uri S!aalan?s, unre*on*iled, *!an*e-met# At on*e we sent a warning to 0asir# :ortunately . n Smeir was a sent# So !is family would e our temporary guests, and 0uri, as !ost, must o serve t!e rules# .t was a relief, for already in our ran&s we !ad !undreds of deadly enemies, t!eir feuds arely suspended y :eisal?s pea*e# (!e strain of &eeping t!em in play, and employing t!eir !ot-!eads in separate sp!eres, alan*ing opportunity and servi*e t!at our dire*tion mig!t e esteemed as a ove >ealousy--all t!at was evil enoug!# Condu*t of t!e war in :ran*e would !ave een !arder if ea*! division, almost ea*! rigade, of our army !ad !ated every ot!er wit! a deadly !atred and foug!t w!en t!ey met suddenly# $owever, we !ad &ept t!em @uiet for two years, and it would e only a few days now# (!e parties of t!e nig!t returned, full of spoil# 4+raa !ad een fee ly !eld y A d el ;ader, t!e Algerian, wit! !is retainers, some volunteers and troops# '!en (alal *ame t!e volunteers >oined !im, t!e troops fled, and t!e retainers were so few t!at A d el ;ader !ad to a andon t!e pla*e wit!out fig!ting# 8ur men were too !eavy wit! t!eir great ooty to *at*! !im# Auda *ame, oasting# $e !ad ta&en el G!a+ale y storm, *apturing a dereli*t train, guns and two !undred men, of w!om some were Germans# 0uri S!aalan reported four !undred prisoners wit! mules and ma*!ine-guns# (!e ran& and file of (ur&s !ad een farmed out to remote villages, to earn

t!eir &eep# An 4nglis! aeroplane flew round and round, wondering if we were t!e Ara for*e# 1oung spread out ground signals, and to !im t!ey dropped a message t!at %ulgaria !ad surrendered to t!e Allies# 'e !ad not &nown t!ere was an offensive in t!e %al&ans, so t!e news *ame orp!aned, and as it were insignifi*ant to us# 9ndou tedly t!e end, not only of t!e great war, ut of our war, was near# A s!arp effort, and our trial would e over and everyone loosed a*& to !is affairs, forgetting t!e madnesssin*e for most of us it was t!e first war, and we loo&ed to its end as rest and pea*e# (!e army !ad arrived# (!e groves e*ame t!ronged as ea*! deta*!ment pi*&ed out t!e est va*ant pla*e and unsaddled, w!et!er eside fig-trees, or under palms, or olives, from w!i*! t!e irds urst out in frig!tened *louds, wit! a multitudinous *rying# 8ur men too& t!eir animals to t!e stream meandering t!roug! green us!es and flowers and *ultivated fruits, t!ings strange to us during t!e years of our wandering in t!e flin ty desert# (!e people of S!ei&! Saad *ame s!yly to loo& at :eisal?s army, w!i*! !ad een a w!ispered legendary t!ing, and was now in t!eir village, led y renowned or formida le names--(alal, 0asir, 0uri, Suda# 'e stared a*&, in se*ret envy of t!eir peasant life# '!ile t!e men stret*!ed t!e saddle-stiffness of riding from t!in legs, we went up, five or si3 of us, a ove t!e ruins, w!en*e a*ross t!e sout!ern plain we s!ould see t!e measure of se*urity in store for us# (o our astonis!ment we per*eived, >ust over t!e walls, a t!in *ompany of regulars in uniform-(ur&s, Austrians, Germans--wit! eig!t ma*!ine guns on pa*&-animals# (!ey were toiling up from Galilee towards Damas*us after t!eir defeat y Allen y) !opeless, ut *are-free, mar*!ing at ease, t!in&ing t!emselves fifty miles from any war# 'e did not give an alarm, to spare our tired troops pains- >ust Dur+i i n Dug!mi, wit! t!e ;!affa>i and ot!ers of t!e family, mounted @uietly and fell on t!em from a narrow lane# (!e offi*ers s!owed fig!t and were instantly &illed# (!e men t!rew down t!eir arms, and in five minutes !ad een sear*!ed and ro ed and were eing s!ep!erded in file along t!e water-pat!s etween t!e gardens to an open pound w!i*! seemed fit for our prison# S!ei&! Saad was paying soon and well# Away to t!e east appeared t!ree or four la*& &nots of people, moving nort!ward# 'e loosed t!e $oweitat on t!em, and after an !our t!ey returned in laug!ter, ea*! man leading a mule or pa*&!orse) poor, tired, galled rutes, s!owing all too *learly t!e straits of t!e eaten army# (!e riders !ad een unarmed soldiers fleeing from t!e %ritis!# (!e $oweitat disdained to ma&e su*! prisoners# 'e gave t!em to t!e oys and girls of t!e villages for servants,? sneered Gaal, wit! !is t!in-lipped smile# 0ews *ame to us from t!e west t!at small *ompanies of (ur&s were retiring into t!e lo*al villages from C!auvel?s atta*&s# 'e sent against t!em armed parties of 0airn, a peasant tri e w!i*! !ad >oined us last nig!t at S!ei&! Mis&in, as appointed y 0asir, to do w!at t!ey *ould# (!e mass rising we !ad so long prepared was now in flood, rising !ig!er as ea*! su**ess armed more re els# .n two days? time we mig!t !ave si3ty t!ousand armed men in movement# 'e snapped up furt!er trifles on t!e Damas*us road) and t!en saw !eavy smo&e a ove t!e !ill w!i*! !id Deraa# A man *antered in, to inform (allal t!at t!e Germans !ad set fire to aeroplanes and store!ouses, and stood ready to eva*uate t!e town# A %ritis! plane dropped word t!at %arrow?s troops were near "emt!a, and t!at two (ur&is! *olumns, one of four t!ousand, one of two t!ousand, were retiring towards us from Deraa and Me+eri respe*tively# .t seemed to me t!at t!ese si3 t!ousand men were all t!at remained of t!e :ourt! Army, from Deraa, and of t!e Sevent! Army, w!i*! !ad een disputing %arrow?s advan*e# 'it! t!eir destru*tion would end our purpose !ere# 1et, till we &new, we must retain S!ei&! Saad# So t!e larger *olumn, t!e four t!ousand, we would let pass, only fastening to t!em ;!alid and !is "ualla, wit! some nort!ern peasantry, to !arry t!eir flan&s and rear#

&()PTE" &.+II
(!e nearer two t!ousand seemed more our si+e# 'e would meet t!em wit! !alf our regulars, and two of ,isani?s guns# (allal was an3ious, for t!eir indi*ated route would ring t!em t!roug! (afas, !is own village# $e determined us to ma&e speed t!ere and sei+e t!e ridge sout! of it# 9nfortunately speed was only a relative term wit! men so tired# . rode wit! my troop to (afas, !oping to o**upy a s!adow position eyond it and fig!t a retiring a*tion till t!e rest *ame up# $alf-way on t!e road, t!ere met us mounted Ara s, !erding a drove of stripped prisoners towards S!ei&! Saad# (!ey were driving t!em mer*ilessly, t!e ruises of t!eir urging lue a*ross t!e ivory a*&s) ut . left t!em to it, for t!ese were (ur&s of t!e poli*e attalion of Deraa, eneat! w!ose ini@uities t!e peasant-fa*es of t!e neig! our!ood !ad run wit! tears and lood, innumera le times# (!e Ara s told us t!at t!e (ur&is! *olumn--/emal ,as!a?s lan*er regiment--was already entering (afas# '!en we got wit!in sig!t, we found t!ey !ad ta&en t!e village Bfrom w!i*! sounded an o**asional s!otC and were !alted a out it# Small pyres of smo&e were going up from etween t!e !ouses# 8n t!e rising ground to t!is side, &nee-deep in t!e t!istles, stood a remnant of old men, women and *!ildren, telling terri le stories of w!at !ad !appened w!en t!e (ur&s rus!ed in an !our efore# 'e lay on wat*!, and saw t!e enemy for*e mar*! away from t!eir assem ly-ground e!ind t!e !ouses# (!ey !eaded in good order towards Mis&in, t!e lan*ers in front and rear, *omposite formations of infantry disposed in *olumn wit! ma*!ine-gun support as flan& guards, guns and a mass of transport in t!e *entre# 'e opened fire on t!e !ead of t!eir line w!en it s!owed itself eyond t!e !ouses# (!ey turned two field-guns upon us, for reply# (!e s!rapnel was as usual over-fused, and passed safely a ove our !eads# 0uri *ame wit! ,isani# %efore t!eir ran&s rode Auda a u (ayi, e3pe*tant, and (allal, nearly franti* wit! t!e tales !is people poured out of t!e sufferings of t!e village# (!e last (ur&s were now @uitting it# 'e slipped down e!ind t!em to end (allal?s suspense, w!ile our infantry too& position and fired strongly wit! t!e $ot*!&iss) ,isani advan*ed !is !alf attery among t!em) so t!at t!e :ren*! !ig! e3plosive t!rew t!e rearguard into *onfusion# (!e village lay stilly under its slow wreat!s of w!ite smo&e, as we rode near, on our guard# Some grey !eaps seemed to !ide in t!e long grass, em ra*ing t!e ground in t!e *lose way of *orpses# 'e loo&ed away from t!ese, &nowing t!ey were dead) ut from one a little figure tottered off, as if to es*ape us# .t was a *!ild, t!ree or four years old, w!ose dirty smo*& was stained red over one s!oulder and side, wit! lood from a large !alf-fi rous wound, per!aps a lan*e t!rust, >ust w!ere ne*& and ody >oined# (!e *!ild ran a few steps, t!en stood and *ried to us in a tone of astonis!ing strengt! Ball else eing very silentC, ?Don?t !it me, %a a?# A d el A+i+, *!o&ing out somet!ing--t!is was !is village, and s!e mig!t e of !is family--flung !imself off !is *amel, and stum led, &neeling, in t!e grass eside t!e *!ild# $is suddenness frig!tened !er, for s!e t!rew up !er arms and tried to s*ream) ut, instead, dropped in a little !eap, w!ile t!e lood rus!ed out again over !er *lot!es) t!en, . t!in&, s!e died# 'e rode past t!e ot!er odies of men and women and four more dead a ies, loo&ing very soiled in t!e daylig!t, towards t!e village) w!ose loneliness we now &new meant deat! and !orror# %y t!e outs&irts were low mud walls, s!eepfolds, and on one somet!ing red and w!ite# . loo&ed *lose and saw t!e ody of a woman folded a*ross it, ottom upwards, nailed t!ere y a saw ayonet w!ose !aft stu*& !ideously into t!e air from etween !er na&ed legs# S!e !ad een pregnant, and a out !er lay ot!ers, per!aps twenty in all, variously &illed, ut set out in a**ord wit! an o s*ene taste# (!e Gaagi urst into wild peals of laug!ter, t!e more desolate for t!e warm suns!ine and *lear air of t!is upland afternoon# . said, ?(!e est of you rings me t!e most (ur&is! dead?, and we turned after t!e fading enemy, on our way s!ooting down t!ose w!o !ad fallen out y t!e roadside and *ame imploring our pity# 8ne wounded (ur&, !alf na&ed, not a le to stand, sat and wept to us# A dulla turned away !is *amel?s !ead, ut t!e Gaagi, wit! *urses, *rossed !is tra*& and w!ipped t!ree ullets

from !is automati* t!roug! t!e man?s are *!est# (!e lood *ame out wit! !is !eart eats, t!ro , t!ro , t!ro , slower and slower# (allal !ad seen w!at we !ad seen# $e gave one moan li&e a !urt animal) t!en rode to t!e upper ground and sat t!ere a w!ile on !is mare, s!ivering and loo&ing fi3edly after t!e (ur&s# . moved near to spea& to !im, ut Auda *aug!t my rein and stayed me# <ery slowly (allal drew !is !ead-*lot! a out !is fa*e) and t!en !e seemed suddenly to ta&e !old of !imself, for !e das!ed !is stirrups into t!e mare?s flan&s and galloped !eadlong, ending low and swaying in t!e saddle, rig!t at t!e main ody of t!e enemy# .t was a long ride down a gentle slope and a*ross a !ollow# 'e sat t!ere li&e stone w!ile !e rus!ed forward, t!e drumming of !is !oofs unnaturally loud in our ears, for we !ad stopped s!ooting, and t!e (ur&s !ad stopped# %ot! armies waited for !im) and !e ro*&ed on in t!e !us!ed evening till only a few lengt!s from t!e enemy# (!en !e sat up in t!e saddle and *ried !is war-*ry, (allal, (allal?, twi*e in a tremendous s!out# .nstantly t!eir rifles and ma*!ine-guns *ras!ed out, and !e and !is mare, riddled t!roug! and t!roug! wit! ullets, fell dead among t!e lan*e points# Auda loo&ed very *old and grim# ?God give !im mer*y) we will ta&e !is pri*e#? $e s!oo& !is rein and moved slowly after t!e enemy# 'e *alled up t!e peasants, now drun& wit! fear and lood, and sent t!em from t!is side and t!at against t!e retreating *olumn# (!e old lion of attle wa&ed in Auda?s !eart, and made !im again our natural, inevita le leader# %y a s&ilful turn !e drove t!e (ur&s into ad ground and split t!eir formation into t!ree parts# (!e t!ird part, t!e smallest, was mostly made up of German and Austrian ma*!ine-gunners grouped round t!ree motor-*ars, and a !andful of mounted offi*ers or troopers# (!ey foug!t magnifi*ently and repulsed us time and again despite our !ardiness# (!e Ara s were fig!ting li&e devils, t!e sweat lurring t!eir eyes, dust par*!ing t!eir t!roats) w!ile t!e flame of *ruelty and revenge w!i*! was urning in t!eir odies so twisted t!em, t!at t!eir !ands *ould !ardly s!oot# %y my order we too& no prisoners, for t!e only time in our war# At last we left t!is stern se*tion e!ind, and pursued t!e faster two# (!ey were in pani*) and y sunset we !ad destroyed all ut t!e smallest pie*es of t!em, gaining as and y w!at t!ey lost# ,arties of peasants flowed in on our advan*e# At first t!ere were five or si3 to a weapon- t!en one would win a ayonet, anot!er a sword, a t!ird a pistol# An !our later t!ose w!o !ad een on foot would e on don&eys# Afterwards every man !ad a rifle, and a *aptured !orse# %y nig!tfall t!e !orses were laden, and t!e ri*! plain was s*attered over wit! dead men and animals# .n a madness orn of t!e !orror of (afas we &illed and &illed, even lowing in t!e !eads of t!e fallen and of t!e animals) as t!oug! t!eir deat! and running lood *ould sla&e our agony # /ust one group of Ara s, w!o !ad not !eard our news, too& prisoner t!e last two !undred men of t!e *entral se*tion# (!eir respite was s!ort# . !ad gone up to learn w!y it was, not unwilling t!at t!is remnant e let live as witnesses of (allal?s pri*e) ut a man on t!e ground e!ind t!em s*reamed somet!ing to t!e Ara s, w!o wit! pale fa*es led me a*ross to see# .t was one of us--!is t!ig! s!attered# (!e lood !ad rus!ed out over t!e red soil, and left !im dying) ut even so !e !ad not een spared# .n t!e fas!ion of to-day?s attle !e !ad een furt!er tormented y ayonets !ammered t!roug! !is s!oulder and ot!er leg into t!e ground, pinning !im out li&e a *olle*ted inse*t# $e was fully *ons*ious# '!en we said, (lassan, w!o did itJ? !e drooped !is eyes towards t!e prisoners, !uddling toget!er so !opelessly ro&en# (!ey said not!ing in t!e moments efore we opened fire# At last t!eir !eap *eased moving) and $assan was dead) and we mounted again and rode !ome slowly B!ome was my *arpet t!ree or four !ours from us at S!ei&! SaadC in t!e gloom, w!i*! felt so *!ill now t!at t!e sun !ad gone down# $owever, w!at wit! wounds and a*!es and weariness . *ould not rest from t!in&ing of (allal, t!e splendid leader, t!e fine !orseman, t!e *ourteous and strong *ompanion of t!e road) and after a w!ile . !ad my ot!er *amel roug!t, and wit! one of my odyguard rode out into t!e nig!t to >oin our men !unting t!e greater Deraa *olumn#

.t was very dar&, wit! a wind eating in great gusts from t!e sout! and east) and only y t!e noise of s!ots it tossed a*ross to us and y o**asional gun flas!es, did we at lengt! *ome to t!e fig!ting# 4very field and valley !ad its (ur&s stum ling lindly nort!ward# 8ur men were *linging on# (!e fall of nig!t !ad made t!em older, and t!ey were now *losing wit! t!e enemy# 4a*! village, as t!e fig!t rolled to it, too& up t!e wor&) and t!e la*&, i*y wind was wild wit! rifle-fire, s!outings, volleys from t!e (ur&s, and t!e rus! of gallops, as small parties of eit!er side *ras!ed franti*ally toget!er# (!e enemy !ad tried to !alt and *amp at sunset, ut ;!alid !ad s!a&en t!em again into movement# Some mar*!ed, some stayed# Many dropped asleep in t!eir tra*&s wit! fatigue# (!ey !ad lost order and *o!eren*e, and were drifting t!roug! t!e last in lorn pa*&ets, ready to s!oot and run at every *onta*t wit! us or wit! ea*! ot!er) and t!e Ara s were as s*attered, and nearly as un*ertain# 43*eptions were t!e German deta*!ments) and !ere, for t!e first time, . grew proud of t!e enemy w!o !ad &illed my rot!ers# (!ey were two t!ousand miles from !ome, wit!out !ope and wit!out guides, in *onditions mad enoug! to rea& t!e ravest nerves# 1et t!eir se*tions !eld toget!er, in firm ran&, s!eering t!roug! t!e wra*& of (ur& and Ara li&e armoured s!ips, !ig!-fa*ed and silent# '!en atta*&ed t!ey !alted, too& position, fired to order# (!ere was no !aste, no *rying, no !esitation# (!ey were glorious# At last . found ;!alid, and as&ed !im to *all off t!e "ualla and leave t!is rout to time and t!e peasantry# $eavier wor&, per!aps, lay to t!e sout!ward# At dus& a rumour !ad passed a*ross our plain t!at Deraa was empty, and (rad, ;!alid?s rot!er, wit! a good !alf of t!e Ana+e!, !ad ridden off to see# . feared a reverse for !im, sin*e t!ere must still e (ur&s in t!e pla*e, and more struggling towards it up t!e railway and t!roug! t!e .r id $ills# .ndeed, unless %arrow, last reported to us as delayed in "emt!e, !ad lost *onta*t wit! !is enemy, t!ere must e a fig!ting rearguard yet to follow# . wanted ;!alid to support !is rot!er# After an !our or two of s!outing !is message down t!e wind, !undreds of !orsemen and *amel men !ad rallied to !im# 8n !is way to Deraa !e *!arged t!roug! and over several deta*!ments of (ur&s in t!e star- lin&, and arrived to find (rad in se*ure possession# $e !ad won t!roug! in t!e later twilig!t, ta&ing t!e station at a gallop, >umping tren*!es and lotting out t!e s*anty (ur&is! elements w!i*! still tried to resist# 'it! lo*al !elp t!e "ualla plundered t!e *amp, espe*ially finding ooty in t!e fier*ely urning store!ouses w!ose flaming roofs imperilled t!eir lives) ut t!is was one of t!e nig!ts in w!i*! man&ind went *ra+y, w!en deat! seemed impossi le, !owever many died to t!e rig!t and left, and w!en ot!ers? lives e*ame toys to rea& and t!row away# S!ei&! Saad passed a trou led evening of alarms and s!ots and s!outs, wit! t!reatenings from t!e peasantry to murder t!e prisoners as added pri*e of (allal and !is village# (!e a*tive s!ei&!s were out !unting t!e (ur&s, and t!eir a sen*e wit! t!eir retainers deprived t!e Ara *amp of its e3perien*ed *!iefs and of its eyes and ears# Sleeping *lan->ealousies !ad awa&ed in t!e lood t!irst of t!e afternoon of &illing, and 0asir and 0uri Said, 1oung and 'interton !ad to strain every nerve in &eeping pea*e# . got in after midnig!t and found (rad?s messengers >ust arrived from Deraa# 0asir left to >oin !im# . !ad wis!ed to sleep, for t!is was my fourt! nig!t of riding) ut my mind would not let me feel !ow tired my ody was, so a out two in t!e morning . mounted a t!ird *amel and splas!ed out towards Deraa, down t!e (afas tra*& again, to windward of t!e dar& village# 0uri Said and !is staff were riding t!e same road in advan*e of t!eir mounted infantry, and our parties !urried toget!er till t!e !alf-lig!t *ame# (!en my impatien*e and t!e *old would not let me travel !orsepa*e any longer# . gave li erty to my *amel--t!e grand, re ellious %a!a--and s!e stret*!ed !erself out against t!e field, ra*ing my wearied followers for mile upon mile wit! piston-strides li&e an engine, so t!at . entered Deraa @uite alone in t!e full dawn# 0asir was at t!e Mayor?s !ouse, arranging a military governor, and poli*e) and for an in@uisition of t!e pla*e) . supplemented !is ideas, putting guards over t!e pumps and engine s!eds and w!at

remained of tool s!ops or stores# (!en in an !our of tal& . uilt up pu li*ly a programme of w!at t!e situation would demand of t!em, if t!ey were not to lose !old# ,oor 0asir stared in ewilderment# . in@uired a out General %arrow# A man >ust ridden in from t!e west told us !e !ad een fired on y t!e 4nglis!, as t!ey deployed to atta*& t!e town# (o prevent su*! an a**ident t!e Gaagi and . rode up t!e %uwei , on w!ose *rest was visi le a strong post of .ndian ma*!ine-gunners# (!ey trained t!eir weapons on us, proud of su*! splendidly dressed pri+es# $owever, an offi*er s!owed !imself, wit! some %ritis! troopers, and to t!em . e3plained myself# (!ey were indeed in t!e midst of an enveloping movement against Deraa, and, w!ile we wat*!ed, t!eir aeroplanes om ed t!e lu*&less 0uri Said as !e rode into t!e railway station# (!is was !is penalty for losing t!e ra*e from S!ei&! Saad- ut, to stop it, . !urried down to w!ere General %arrow was inspe*ting outposts in a *ar# . told !im we !ad spent t!e nig!t in t!e town, and t!e s!ooting !e !eard was >oy-firing# $e was s!ort wit! me) ut . !ad little pity for !im, e*ause !e !ad delayed a day and nig!t watering at t!e poor wells of "emt!e, t!oug! !is map s!owed t!e la&e and river of Me+eri in front, on t!e road y w!i*! t!e enemy were es*aping# $owever !is orders were Deraa, and to Deraa !e would go# $e told me to ride eside !im- ut !is !orses !ated my *amel, so t!e General Staff u*&ed along t!e dit*!, w!ile . so erly pa*ed t!e *rown of t!e road# $e said !e must post sentries in t!e village to &eep t!e popula*e in order# . e3plained gently t!at t!e Ara s !ad installed t!eir military governor# At t!e wells !e said !is sappers must inspe*t t!e pumps# . replied wel*oming t!eir assistan*e# 'e !ad lit t!e furna*es and !oped to egin watering !is !orses in an !our# $e snorted t!at we seemed to e at !ome) !e would ta&e *!arge only of t!e railway station# . pointed to t!e engine moving out towards Me+eri Bw!ere our little S!ei&! !ad prevented t!e (ur&s from lowing up t!e (ell el S!e!a ridge, now e*ome Ara propertyC and as&ed t!at !is sentries e instru*ted not to interfere wit! our proper wor&ing of t!e line# $e !ad !ad no orders as to t!e status of t!e Ara s# Clayton did us t!is servi*e, t!in&ing we s!ould deserve w!at we *ould assert- so %arrow, w!o !ad *ome in t!in&ing of t!em as a *on@uered people, t!oug! da+ed at my *alm assumption t!at !e was my guest, !ad no option ut to follow t!e lead of su*! assuran*e# My !ead was wor&ing full speed in t!ese minutes, on our >oint e!alf, to prevent t!e fatal first steps y w!i*! t!e unimaginative %ritis!, wit! t!e est will in t!e world, usually deprived t!e a*@uies*ent native of t!e dis*ipline of responsi ility, and *reated a situation w!i*! *alled for years of agitation and su**essive reforms and riotings to mend# . !ad studied %arrow and was ready for !im# 1ears efore, !e !ad pu lis!ed !is *onfession of fait! in :ear as t!e *ommon people?s main in*entive to a*tion in war and pea*e# 0ow . found fear a mean, overrated motive) no deterrent, and, t!oug! a stimulant, a poisonous stimulant, w!ose every in>e*tion served to *onsume more of t!e system to w!i*! it was applied# . *ould !ave no allian*e wit! !is pedant elief of s*aring men into !eaven- etter t!at %arrow and . part at on*e# My instin*t wit! t!e inevita le was to provo&e it# (!erefore, . was very spiny and !ig!# %arrow surrendered !imself y as&ing me to find !im forage and foodstuffs# .ndeed, soon we got on well# .n t!e s@uare . s!owed !im 0asir?s little sil& pennon, propped on t!e al*ony of t!e *!arred Government offi*e, wit! a yawning sentry underneat!# %arrow drew !imself up and saluted s!arply, w!ile a t!rill of pleasure at t!e General?s *ompliment ran round Ara offi*ers and men# .n return we strove to &eep self-assertion wit!in t!e ounds of politi*al ne*essity# 8n all Ara s we impressed t!at t!ese .ndian troops were guests, and must e permitted, nay !elped, to do anyt!ing t!ey wis!ed# (!e do*trine too& us into une3pe*ted pla*es# 4very *!i*&en disappeared from t!e village, and t!ree sowars *arried off 0asir?s pennon, !aving *oveted t!e silver &no s and spi&e of its dainty staff# (!is pointed a *ontrast etween t!e 4nglis! General w!o saluted and t!e .ndian trooper w!o stole- a *ontrast wel*ome to t!e Ara ra*e--!esitation towards t!e .ndians# Meanw!ile, everyw!ere we were ta&ing men and guns# 8ur prisoners *ould e *ounted in t!ousands# Some we !anded over to t!e %ritis!, w!o *ounted t!em again- most we oarded-out in t!e villages# A+ra& !eard t!e full news of vi*tory# :eisal drove in a day later, our string of armoured *ars following

!is <au3!all# $e installed !imself in t!e station# . *alled wit! my re*ord of stewards!ip- as t!e tale ended t!e room s!oo& wit! a gentle eart!@ua&e#

&()PTE" &.+III
%arrow, now watered and fed, was due to leave for !is meeting wit! C!auvel near Damas*us, t!at t!ey mig!t enter t!e *ity toget!er# $e as&ed us to ta&e t!e rig!t flan&, w!i*! suited me, for t!ere, along t!e $e>a+ line, was 0asir, !anging on to t!e main (ur&is! retreat, redu*ing its num ers y *ontinuous atta*& day and nig!t# . !ad still mu*! to do, and t!erefore waited in Deraa anot!er nig!t, savouring its @uiet after t!e troops !ad gone) for t!e station stood at t!e limit of t!e open *ountry, and t!e .ndians round it !ad angered me y t!eir out-of-pla*eness# (!e essen*e of t!e desert was t!e lonely moving individual, t!e son of t!e road, apart from t!e world as in a grave# (!ese troops, in flo*&s li&e slow s!eep, loo&ed not wort!y of t!e privilege of spa*e# My mind felt in t!e .ndian ran& and file somet!ing puny and *onfined) an air of t!in&ing t!emselves mean) almost a *areful, esteemed su servien*e, unli&e t!e a rupt w!olesomeness of %eduin# (!e manner of t!e %ritis! offi*ers toward t!eir men stru*& !orror into my odyguard, w!o !ad never seen personal ine@uality efore# . !ad felt man?s ini@uity !ere- and so !ated Deraa t!at . lay ea*! nig!t wit! my men upon t!e old aerodrome# %y t!e *!arred !angars my guards, fi*&le-surfa*ed as t!e sea, s@ua led after t!eir wont) and t!ere to-nig!t for t!e last time A dulla roug!t me *oo&ed ri*e in t!e silver owl# After supping, . tried in t!e lan&ness to t!in& forward- ut my mind was a lan&, my dreams puffed out li&e *andles y t!e strong wind of su**ess# .n front was our too-tangi le goal- ut e!ind lay t!e effort of two years, its misery forgotten or glorified# 0ames rang t!roug! my !ead, ea*! in imagination a superlative- "um t!e magnifi*ent, rilliant ,etra, A+ra& t!e remote, %atra t!e very *lean# 1et t!e men !ad *!anged# Deat! !ad ta&en t!e gentle ones) and t!e new striden*y, of t!ose w!o were left, !urt me# Sleep would not *ome, so efore t!e lig!t, . wo&e Stirling and my drivers, and we four *lim ed into t!e %lue Mist, our %olls tender, and set out for Damas*us, along t!e dirt road w!i*! was first rutted, and t!en lo*&ed y t!e transport *olumns and rearguard of %arrow?s division# 'e *ut a*ross *ountry to t!e :ren*! railway, w!ose old allast gave us a *lear, if rugged, road) t!en we put on speed# At noon we saw %arrow?s pennon at a stream, w!ere !e was watering !is !orses# My odyguard were near y, so . too& my *amel and rode over to !im# 2i&e ot!er *onfirmed !orsemen, !e !ad een a little *ontemptuous of t!e *amel) and !ad suggested, in Deraa, t!at we mig!t !ardly &eep up wit! !is *avalry, w!i*! was going to Damas*us in a out t!ree for*edmar*!es# So w!en !e saw me fres!ly riding up !e was astonis!ed, and as&ed w!en we left Deraa# ?(!is morning#? $is fa*e fell# '!ere will you stop to-nig!tJ? ?.n Damas*us,? said . gaily) and rode on, !aving made anot!er enemy# .t a little smote me to play tri*&s, for !e was generous towards my wis!es- ut t!e sta&es were !ig!, eyond !is sig!t, and . *ared not!ing w!at !e t!oug!t of me so t!at we won# . returned to Stirling, and drove on# At ea*! village we left notes for t!e %ritis! advan*e guards, telling t!em w!ere we were, and !ow far eyond us t!e enemy# .t ir&ed Stirling and myself to see t!e *aution of %arrow?s advan*e) s*outs s*outing empty valleys, se*tions *rowning every deserted !ill, a s*reen drawn forward so *arefully over friendly *ountry# .t mar&ed t!e differen*e etween our *ertain movements and t!e tentative pro*esses of normal war# (!ere *ould e no *risis till ;iswe, w!ere we were to meet C!auvel, and w!ere t!e $e>a+ line approa*!ed our road# 9pon t!e railway were 0asir, 0uri S!aalan and Auda, wit! t!e tri es) still !arrying t!at *olumn of four t!ousand B ut in trut! nearer sevenC mar&ed y our aeroplane near S!ei&! Saad t!ree usy days ago# (!ey !ad foug!t *easeless ly t!roug!out t!is time of our ease# As we drove up we !eard firing, and saw s!rapnel e!ind a ridge to our rig!t, w!ere t!e railway was# Soon appeared t!e !ead of a (ur&is! *olumn of a out two t!ousand men, in ragged groups, !alting now and t!en to fire t!eir mountain guns# 'e ran on to overta&e t!eir pursuers, our great "olls very

lue on t!e open road# Some Ara !orsemen from e!ind t!e (ur&s galloped towards us, u*&eting un!andily a*ross t!e irrigation dit*!es# 'e re*ogni+ed 0asir on !is liver-*oloured stallion, t!e splendid animal yet spirited after its !undred miles of a running fig!t- also old 0uri S!aalan and a out t!irty of t!eir servants# (!ey told us t!ese few were all t!at remained of t!e seven t!ousand (ur&s# (!e "ualla were !anging desperately on to ot! flan&s, w!ile Auda a u (ayi !ad ridden e!ind /e el Mania to gat!er t!e 'uld Ali, !is friends, and lie in wait t!ere for t!is *olumn, w!i*! t!ey !oped to drive over t!e !ill into !is am us!# Did our appearan*e mean !elp at lastJ . told t!em t!e %ritis!, in for*e, were >ust e!ind# .f t!ey *ould delay t!e enemy only an !our # # # 0asir loo&ed a!ead and saw a walled and wooded farmstead arring t!e level# $e *alled to 0uri S!aalan, and t!ey !astened t!it!er to *!e*& t!e (ur&s# 'e drove a*& t!ree miles to t!e leading .ndians, and told t!eir an*ient, surly Colonel w!at a gift t!e Ara s roug!t# $e seemed not pleased to upset t!e eautiful order of !is mar*!, ut at last opened out a s@uadron and sent t!em slowly a*ross t!e plain towards t!e (ur&s, w!o turned t!e little guns t!eir way# 8ne or two s!ells urst nearly among t!e files, and t!en to our !orror Bfor 0asir !ad put !imself in >eopardy, e3pe*ting *ourageous !elpC t!e Colonel ordered a retirement, and fell a*& @ui*&ly to t!e road# Stirling and myself, !opping mad, das!ed down and egged !im not to e afraid of mountain guns, no !eavier t!an <ery pistols- ut neit!er to &indness nor to wrat! did t!e old man udge an in*!# 'e ra*ed a t!ird time a*& along t!e road in sear*! of !ig!er aut!ority# A red-tipped Aide told us t!at over t!ere was General Gregory# 'e lessed !im, Stirling?s professional pride nearly in tears at t!e mismanagement# 'e pulled our friend a oard and found !is General, to w!om we lent our *ar t!at t!e rigade ma>or mig!t ta&e !ot orders to t!e *avalry# A galloper !urtled a*& for t!e !orse artillery, w!i*! opened fire >ust as t!e last of t!e lig!t fled up t!e !ill to its summit and too& refuge in t!e *louds# Middlese3 1eomanry appeared and were pus!ed in among t!e Ara s, to *!arge t!e (ur&is! rear) and, as t!e nig!t fell, we saw t!e rea&-up of t!e enemy, w!o a andoned t!eir guns, t!eir transport and all t!eir stuff and went streaming up t!e *ol towards t!e two pea&s of Mania, es*aping into w!at t!ey t!oug!t was empty land eyond# $owever, in t!e empty land was Auda) and in t!at nig!t of !is last attle t!e old man &illed and &illed, plundered and *aptured, till dawn s!owed !im t!e end# (!ere passed t!e :ourt! Army, our stum linglo*& for two years# Gregory?s !appy vigour !eartened us to fa*e 0asir# 'e drove to ;iswe, w!ere we !ad agreed to meet !im efore midnig!t# After us *ame t!e press of .ndian troops# 'e soug!t a retired spot) ut already t!ere were men y t!e t!ousand everyw!ere# (!e movement and *ross-*urrents of so many *rowded minds drove me a out, restlessly, li&e t!emselves# .n t!e nig!t my *olour was unseen# . *ould wal& as . pleased, an un*onsidered Ara - and t!is finding myself among, ut *ut off from, my own &in made me strangely alone# 8ur armoured-*ar men were persons to me, from t!eir fewness and our long *ompanions!ip) and also in t!eir selves, for t!ese mont!s uns!ieldedly open to t!e flaming sun and ullying wind !ad worn and refined t!em into individuals# .n su*! a mo of una**ustomed soldiery, %ritis!, Australian and .ndian, t!ey went as strange and timid as myself) distinguis!ed also y grime, for wit! wee&s of wearing t!eir *lot!es !ad een moulded to t!em y sweat and use and !ad e*ome rat!er integuments t!an wrappings# %ut t!ese ot!ers were really soldiers, a novelty after two years? irregularity# And it *ame upon me fres!ly !ow t!e se*ret of uniform was to ma&e a *rowd solid, dignified, impersonal- to give it t!e singleness and tautness of an upstanding man# (!is deat!?s livery w!i*! walled its earers from ordinary life, was sign t!at t!ey !ad sold t!eir wills and odies to t!e State- and *ontra*ted t!emselves into a servi*e not t!e less a >e*t for t!at its eginning was voluntary# Some of t!em !ad o eyed t!e instin*t of lawlessness- some were !ungry- ot!ers t!irsted for glamour, for t!e supposed *olour of a military life- ut, of t!em all, t!ose only re*eived satisfa*tion w!o !ad soug!t to degrade t!emselves, for to t!e pea*e-eye t!ey were elow !umanity# 8nly women wit! a le*! were allured y t!ose witnessing *lot!es) t!e soldiers? pay, not sustenan*e li&e a la ourer?s, ut po*&et-money, seemed most

profita ly spent w!en it let t!em drin& sometimes and forget# Convi*ts !ad violen*e put upon t!em# Slaves mig!t e free, if t!ey *ould, in intention# %ut t!e soldier assigned !is owner t!e twenty-four !ours? use of !is ody) and sole *ondu*t of !is mind and passions# A *onvi*t !ad li*en*e to !ate t!e rule w!i*! *onfined !im, and all !umanity outside, if !e were greedy in !ate- ut t!e sul&ing soldier was a ad soldier) indeed, no soldier# $is affe*tions must e !ired pie*es on t!e *!ess- oard of t!e &ing# (!e strange power of war w!i*! made us all as a duty so demean ourselvesA (!ese Australians, s!ouldering me in un*eremonious !orseplay, !ad put off !alf *ivili+ation wit! t!eir *ivil *lot!es# (!ey were dominant to-nig!t, too sure of t!emselves to e *areful- and yet--- as t!ey la+ily swaggered t!ose @ui*& odies, all *urves wit! never a straig!t line, ut wit! old and disillusioned eyes- and yet---. felt t!em t!in-tempered, !ollow, instin*tive) always going to do great t!ings) wit! t!e dis@uieting suppleness of lades !alf-drawn from t!e s*a ard# Dis@uieting- not dreadful# (!e 4nglis! fellows were not instin*tive, nor negligent li&e t!e Australians, ut !eld t!emselves, wit! a slow-eyed, almost s!eepis! *are# (!ey were prim in dress, and @uiet) going s!yly in pairs# (!e Australians stood in groups and wal&ed singly- t!e %ritis! *lung two and two, in a *eli ate friendliness w!i*! e3pressed t!e level of t!e ran&s- t!e *ommonness of t!eir Army *lot!es# ?$olding toget!er? t!ey *alled it- a war-time yearning to &eep wit!in four ears su*! t!oug!ts as were deep enoug! to !urt# A out t!e soldiers !ung t!e Ara s- gravely-ga+ing men from anot!er sp!ere# My *roo&ed duty !ad anis!ed me among t!em for two years# (o-nig!t . was nearer to t!em t!an to t!e troops, and . resented it, as s!ameful# (!e intruding *ontrast mi3ed wit! longing for !ome, to s!arpen my fa*ulties and ma&e fertile my distaste, till not merely did . see t!e unli&eness of ra*e, and !ear t!e unli&eness of language, ut . learned to pi*& etween t!eir smells- t!e !eavy, standing, *urdled sourness of dried sweat in *otton, over t!e Ara *rowds) and t!e feral smell of 4nglis! soldiers- t!at !ot pissy aura of t!ronged men in woollen *lot!es- a tart pungen*y, reat!-*at*!ing, ammonia*al- a fervent fermenting nap!t!a-smell#

&()PTE" &.I.
8ur war was ended# 4ven t!oug! we slept t!at nig!t in ;iswe, for t!e Ara s told us t!e roads were dangerous, and we !ad no wis! to die stupidly in t!e dar& at t!e gate of Damas*us# (!e sporting Australians saw t!e *ampaign as a point-to-point, wit! Damas*us t!e post) ut in reality we were all under Allen y, now, and t!e vi*tory !ad een t!e logi*al fruit solely of !is genius, and %art!olomew?s pains# (!eir ta*ti*al s*!eme properly put t!e Australians nort! and west of Damas*us, a*ross its railways, efore t!e sout!ern *olumn mig!t enter it- and we, t!e Ara leaders, !ad waited for t!e slower %ritis! partly e*ause Allen y never @uestioned our fulfilling w!at was ordered# ,ower lay in !is *alm assumption t!at !e would re*eive as perfe*t o edien*e as !e gave trust# $e !oped we would e present at t!e entry, partly e*ause !e &new !ow mu*! more t!an a mere trop!y Damas*us was to t!e Ara s- partly for prudential reasons# :eisal?s movement made t!e enemy *ountry friendly to t!e Allies as t!ey advan*ed, ena ling *onvoys to go up wit!out es*ort, towns to e administered wit!out garrison# .n t!eir envelopment of Damas*us t!e Australians mig!t e for*ed, despite orders, to enter t!e town# .f anyone resisted t!em it would spoil t!e future# 8ne nig!t was given us to ma&e t!e Damas*enes re*eive t!e %ritis! Army as t!eir allies# (!is was a revolution in e!aviour, if not in opinion) ut :eisal?s Damas*us *ommittee !ad for mont!s een prepared to ta&e over t!e reins w!en t!e (ur&s *ras!ed# 'e !ad only to get in tou*! wit! t!em, to tell t!em t!e movements of t!e Allies, and w!at was re@uired# So as dus& deepened 0asir sent t!e "ualla !orse into t!e town, to find Ali "i+a, t!e *!airman of our *ommittee, or S!u&ri el Ayu i, !is assistant, telling t!em t!at relief would e availa le on t!e morrow, if t!ey *onstru*ted a

government at on*e# As a matter of fa*t it !ad een done at four o?*lo*& in t!e afternoon, efore we too& a*tion# Ali "i+a was a sent, put in *ommand at t!e last moment y t!e (ur&s of t!e retreat of t!eir army from Galilee efore C!auvel- ut S!u&ri found une3pe*ted support from t!e Algerian rot!ers, Mo!ammed Said and A d el ;ader# 'it! t!e !elp of t!en-retainers t!e Ara flag was on t!e (own $all efore sunset as t!e last e*!elons of Germans and (ur&s defiled past# (!ey say t!e !indmost general saluted it, ironi*ally# . dissuaded 0asir from going in# (!is would e a nig!t of *onfusion, and it would etter serve !is dignity if !e entered serenely at dawn# $e and 0uri S!aalan inter*epted t!e se*ond ody of "ualla *amel men, w!o !ad started out wit! me from Deraa t!is morning) and sent t!em all forward into Damas*us, to support t!e "ualla s!ei&!s# So y midnig!t, w!en we went to rest, we !ad four t!ousand of our armed men in t!e town# . wanted to sleep, for my wor& was *oming on t!e morrow) ut . *ould not# Damas*us was t!e *lima3 of our two years? un*ertainty, and my mind was distra*ted y tags of all t!e ideas w!i*! !ad een used or re>e*ted in t!at time# Also ;iswe was stifling wit! t!e e3!alations of too many trees, too many plants, too many !uman eings- a mi*ro*osm of t!e *rowded world in front of us# As t!e Germans left Damas*us t!ey fired t!e dumps and ammunition stores, so t!at every few minutes we were >angled y e3plosions, w!ose first s!o*& set t!e s&y w!ite wit! flame# At ea*! su*! roar t!e eart! seemed to s!a&e) we would lift our eyes to t!e nort! and see t!e pale s&y pri*& out suddenly in s!eaves of yellow points, as t!e s!ells, t!rown to terrifi* !eig!ts from ea*! ursting maga+ine, in t!eir turn urst li&e *lustered ro*&ets# . turned to Stirling and muttered ?Damas*us is urning?, si*& to t!in& of t!e great town in as!es as t!e pri*e of freedom# '!en dawn *ame we drove to t!e !ead of t!e ridge, w!i*! stood over t!e oasis of t!e *ity, afraid to loo& nort! for t!e ruins we e3pe*ted- ut, instead of ruins, t!e silent gardens stood lurred green wit! river mist, in w!ose setting s!immered t!e *ity, eautiful as ever, li&e a pearl in t!e morning sun# (!e uproar of t!e nig!t !ad s!run& to a stiff tall *olumn of smo&e, w!i*! rose in sullen la*&ness from t!e store-yard y ;adem, terminus of t!e $e>a+ line# 'e drove down t!e straig!t an&ed road t!roug! t!e watered fields, in w!i*! t!e peasants were >ust eginning t!eir day?s wor&# A galloping !orseman *!e*&ed at our !ead-*lot!s in t!e *ar, wit! a merry salutation, !olding out a un*! of yellow grapes# ?Good news--Damas*us salutes you#? $e *ame from S!u&ri# 0asir was >ust eyond us- to !im we *arried t!e tidings, t!at !e mig!t !ave t!e !onoura le entry, a privilege of !is fifty attles# 'it! 0uri S!aalan eside !im, !e as&ed a final gallop from !is !orse, and vanis!ed down t!e long road in a *loud of dust, w!i*! !ung relu*tantly in t!e air etween t!e water splas!es# (o give !im a fair start, Stirling and . found a little stream, *ool in t!e dept!s of a steep *!annel# %y it we stopped, to was! and s!ave# Some .ndian troopers peered at us and our *ar and its ragged driver?s army s!orts and tuni*# . was in pure Ara dress) Stirling, ut for !is !ead-*overing, was all %ritis! staff offi*er# (!eir 0#C#8#, an o tuse and ad-tempered person, t!oug!t !e !ad ta&en prisoners# '!en delivered from !is arrest we >udged we mig!t go after 0asir# Huite @uietly we drove up t!e long street to t!e Government uildings on t!e an& of t!e %arada# (!e way was pa*&ed wit! people, lined solid on t!e side-wal&s, in t!e road, at t!e windows and on t!e al*onies or !ouse-tops# Many were *rying, a few *!eered faintly, some older ones *ried our namesut mostly t!ey loo&ed and loo&ed, >oy s!ining in t!eir eyes# A movement li&e a long sig! from gate to !eart of t!e *ity, mar&ed our *ourse# At t!e (own $all t!ings were different# .ts steps and stairs were pa*&ed wit! a swaying mo - yelling, em ra*ing, dan*ing, singing# (!ey *rus!ed a way for us to t!e ante*!am er, w!ere were t!e gleaming 0asir, and 0uri S!aalan, seated# 8n eit!er side of t!em stood A d el ;ader, my old enemy, and Mo!ammed Said, !is rot!er# . was dum wit! ama+ement# Mo!ammed Said leaped forward and

s!outed t!at t!ey, grandsons of A d el ;ader, t!e 4mir, wit! S!u&ri el Ayu i, of Saladin?s !ouse, !ad formed t!e government and pro*laimed $ussein ?;ing of t!e Ara s? yesterday, into t!e ears of t!e !um led (ur&s and Germans# '!ile !e ranted . turned to S!u&ri, w!o was no statesman, ut a eloved man, almost a martyr in t!e people?s eyes, e*ause of w!at !e !ad suffered from /emal# $e told me !ow t!e Algerians, alone of all Damas*us, !ad stood y t!e (ur&s till t!ey saw t!em running# (!en, wit! t!eir Algerians, t!ey !ad urst in upon :eisal?s *ommittee w!ere it sat in se*ret, and rutally assumed *ontrol# (!ey were fanati*s, w!ose ideas were t!eologi*al, not logi*al) and . turned to 0asir, meaning t!roug! !im to *!e*& t!eir impuden*e now from t!e start) ut t!ere *ame a diversion# (!e s*reaming press a out us parted as t!oug! a ram drove t!roug!, men going down to rig!t and left among ruined *!airs and ta les, w!ile t!e terrifi* roaring of a familiar voi*e triump!ed, and stilled t!em dead# .n t!e *leared spa*e were Auda a u (ayi and Sultan el Atras!, *!ief of t!e Druses, tearing one anot!er# (!eir followers ounded forward, w!ile . >umped in to drive t!em apart) *ras!ing upon Mo!ammed el D!eilan, filled wit! t!e same purpose# (oget!er we ro&e t!em, and for*ed Auda a*& a pa*e, w!ile $ussein el Atras! !ustled t!e lig!ter Sultan into t!e *rowd, and away to a side room# Auda was too lind wit! rage to e fairly *ons*ious# 'e got !im into t!e great state-!all of t!e uilding) an immense, pompous, gilded room, @uiet as t!e grave, sin*e all doors ut ours were lo*&ed# 'e pus!ed !im into a *!air and !eld !im, w!ile in !is fits !e foamed and s!outed till !is voi*e *ra*&ed, !is ody twit*!ing and >er&ing, arms lunging wildly at any weapon wit!in rea*!, !is fa*e swollen wit! lood, are!eaded, t!e long !air streaming over !is eyes# (!e old man !ad een !it first, y Sultan, and !is ungoverna le spirit, drun& wit! a life-time?s wine of self-will, raved to was! out t!e insult in Druse lood# Gaal *ame in, wit! t!e $u si) and t!e four or five of us united to restrain !im- ut it was !alf an !our efore !e *almed enoug! to !ear us spea&ing, and anot!er !alf-!our efore we !ad !is promise to leave !is satisfa*tion, for t!ree days, in t!e !ands of Mo!ammed and myself# . went out and !ad Sultan el Atras! ta&en se*retly from t!e town wit! all speed) and t!en loo&ed round for 0asir and A d el ;ader, to set in order t!eir Government# (!ey were gone# (!e Algerians !ad persuaded 0asir to t!eir !ou se for refres!ment# .t was a good !ap, for t!ere were more pressing pu li* t!ings# 'e must prove t!e old days over, a native government in power- for t!is S!u&ri would e my est instrument, as a*ting Governor# So in t!e %lue Mist, we set off to s!ow ourselves, !is enlargement in aut!ority itself a anner of revolution for t!e *iti+ens# '!en we *ame in t!ere !ad een some miles of people greeting us, now t!ere were t!ousands for every !undred t!en# 4very man, woman and *!ild in t!is *ity of a @uarter-million souls seemed in t!e streets, waiting only t!e spar& of our appearan*e to ignite t!eir spirits# Damas*us went mad wit! >oy# (!e men tossed up t!eir tar- us!es to *!eer, t!e women tore off t!eir veils# $ouse!olders t!rew flowers, !angings, *arpets, into t!e road efore us- t!eir wives leaned, s*reaming wit! laug!ter, t!roug! t!e latti*es and splas!ed us wit! at!-dippers of s*ent# ,oor dervis!es made t!emselves our running footmen in front and e!ind, !owling and *utting t!emselves wit! fren+y) and over t!e lo*al *ries and t!e s!rilling of women *ame t!e measured roar of men?s voi*es *!anting, ?:eisal, 0asir, S!u&ri, 9rens?, in waves w!i*! egan !ere, rolled along t!e s@uares, t!roug! t!e mar&et down long streets to 4ast gate, round t!e wall, a*& up t!e Meidan) and grew to a wall of s!outs around us y t!e *itadel# (!ey told me C!auvel was *oming) our *ars met in t!e sout!ern outs&irts# . des*ri ed t!e e3*itement in t!e *ity, and !ow our new government *ould not guarantee administrative servi*es efore t!e following day, w!en . would wait on !im, to dis*uss !is needs and mine# Meanw!ile . made myself responsi le for pu li* order- only egging !im to &eep !is men outside, e*ause to-nig!t would see su*! *arnival as t!e town !ad not !eld for si3 !undred years, and its !ospitality mig!t pervert t!eir dis*ipline# C!auvel unwillingly followed my lead, !is !esitations ruled y my *ertainty# 2i&e %arrow, !e !ad no

instru*tions w!at to do wit! t!e *aptured *ity) and as we !ad ta&en possession, &nowing our road, wit! *lear purpose, prepared pro*esses, and assets in !and, !e !ad no *!oi*e ut to let us *arry on# $is *!ief of staff w!o did !is te*!ni*al wor&, Godwin, a soldier, was delig!ted to s!elve t!e responsi ility of *ivil government# $is advo*a*y *onfirmed my assumption# .ndeed, it was *onfirmed in C!auvel?s ne3t words, w!i*! as&ed li erty for !imself to drive round t!e town# . gave it so gladly t!at !e as&ed if it would e *onvenient for !im to ma&e formal entry wit! !is troops on t!e morrow# . said *ertainly, and we t!oug!t a little of t!e route# (!ere flas!ed into my !ead t!e pleasure of our men at Deraa w!en %arrow saluted t!eir flag--and . @uoted it as an e3ample good to follow efore t!e (own $all w!en !e mar*!ed past# .t was a *asual t!oug!t of mine, ut !e saw signifi*an*e in it- and a grave diffi*ulty if !e saluted any flag e3*ept t!e %ritis!# . wanted to ma&e fa*es at !is folly- ut instead, in &indness . &ept !im *ompany, seeing e@ual diffi*ulty in !is passing t!e Ara flag deli erately not noti*ed# 'e stum led round t!is pro lem, w!ile t!e >oyful, un&nowing *rowd *!eered us# As a *ompromise . suggested we leave out t!e (own $all, and invent anot!er route, passing, let us say, y t!e ,ost 8ffi*e# . meant t!is for far*e, sin*e my patien*e !ad ro&en down) ut !e too& it seriously, as a !elpful idea) and in return would *on*ede a point for my sa&e and t!e Ara s# .n pla*e of an ?entry? !e would ma&e a ?mar*! t!roug!?- it meant t!at instead of going in t!e middle !e would go at t!e !ead, or instead of t!e !ead, t!e middle# . forgot, or did not well !ear, w!i*!- for . s!ould not !ave *ared if !e !ad *rawled under or flown over !is troops, or split !imself to mar*! ot! sides#

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'!ile we dis*ussed *eremonial anti*s a world of wor& waited, inside and outside, for ea*! of us# .t was itter, playing down to su*! a part- also t!e won game of gra left a ad taste in my mout!, spoiling my entry mu*! as . spoiled C!auvel?s# (!e airy irds of promise so freely sent to t!e Ara s in 4ngland?s day of need were !oming now, to !er *onfusion# $owever, t!e *ourse . mapped for us was proving *orre*t# Anot!er twelve !ours, and we s!ould e safe, wit! t!e Ara s in so strong a pla*e t!at t!eir !and mig!t !old t!roug! t!e long wrangle and appetite of politi*s a out to rea& out a out our lus*ious spoil# 'e snea&ed a*& to t!e (own $all, to grapple wit! A d el ;ader- ut !e !ad not returned# . sent for !im, and for !is rot!er, and for 0asir- and got a *urt reply t!at t!ey were sleeping# So s!ould . !ave een- ut instead four or five of us were eating a snat*!-meal in t!e gaudy salon, sitting on gold *!airs, w!i*! writ!ed, a out a gold ta le w!ose legs also writ!ed o s*enely# . e3plained pointedly to t!e messenger w!at . meant# $e disappeared, and in a few minutes a *ousin of t!e Algerians *ame up, very agitated, and said t!ey were on t!eir way# (!is was an open lie, ut . replied t!at it was well, sin*e in !alf an !our . s!ould !ave fet*!ed %ritis! troops and loo&ed *arefully for t!em# $e ran off in !aste) and 0uri S!aalan as&ed @uietly w!at . meant to do# . said . would depose A d el ;ader and Mo!ammed Said, and appoint S!u&ri in t!eir pla*e till :eisal *ame) and . did it in t!is gentle fas!ion e*ause . was loat! to !urt 0asir?s feelings, and !ad no strengt! of my own if men resisted# $e as&ed if t!e 4nglis! would not *ome# . replied Certainly) ut t!e sorrow was t!at afterwards t!ey mig!t not go# $e t!oug!t a moment, and said, ?1ou s!all !ave t!e "ualla if you do all your will, and @ui*&ly?# 'it!out waiting, t!e old man went out to muster me !is tri e# (!e Algerians *ame to t!e tryst wit! t!eir odyguards, and wit! murder in t!eir eyes- ut, on t!e way, saw 0uri S!aalan?s massed lowering tri esmen) 0uri Said, wit! !is regulars in t!e s@uare) and wit!in, my re*&less guardsmen lounging in t!e ante-*!am er# (!ey saw *learly t!at t!e game was upyet it was a stormy meeting# .n my *apa*ity as deputy for :eisal . pronoun*ed t!eir *ivil government of Damas*us a olis!ed, and named S!u&ri ,as!a Ayu i as a*ting Military Governor# 0uri Said was to e Commandant of troops) A+mi, Ad>utant General) /emil, C!ief of ,u li* Se*urity# Mo!ammed Said, in a itter reply, denoun*ed me as a C!ristian and an 4nglis!man, and *alled on 0asir to assert !imself#

,oor 0asir, far out of !is dept!, *ould only sit and loo& misera le at t!is falling out of friends# A d el ;ader leaped up and *ursed me virulently, puffing !imself to a w!ite !eat of passion# $is motives seemed dogmati*, irrational- so . too& no !eed# (!is maddened !im yet more- suddenly !e leaped forward wit! drawn dagger#

E%teri%g (amas)us 2i&e a flas! Auda was on !im, t!e old man ristling wit! t!e *!ained-up fury of t!e morning, and longing for a fig!t# .t would !ave een !eaven, for !im, to !ave s!redded someone t!ere and t!en wit! !is great fingers# A d el ;ader was daunted) and 0uri S!aalan *losed t!e de ate y saying to t!e *arpet Bso enormous and violent a *arpet it wasC t!at t!e "ualla were mine, and no @uestions as&ed# (!e Algerians rose and swept in !ig! dudgeon from t!e !all# . was persuaded t!ey s!ould e sei+ed and s!ot) ut *ould not ma&e myself fear t!eir power of mis*!ief, nor set t!e Ara s an e3ample of pre*autionary murder as part of politi*s# 'e passed to wor&# 8ur aim was an Ara Government, wit! foundations large and native enoug! to employ t!e ent!usiasm and self-sa*rifi*e of t!e re ellion, translated into terms of pea*e# 'e !ad to save some of t!e old prop!eti* personality upon a su stru*ture to *arry t!at ninety per *ent of t!e population w!o !ad een too solid to re el, and on w!ose solidity t!e new State must rest# "e els, espe*ially su**essful re els, were of ne*essity ad su >e*ts and worse governors# :eisal?s sorry duty would e to rid !imself of !is war-friends, and repla*e t!em y t!ose elements w!i*! !ad een most useful to t!e (ur&is! Government# 0asir was too little a politi*al p!ilosop!er to feel t!is# 0uri Said &new, and 0uri S!aalan# Hui*&ly t!ey *olle*ted t!e nu*leus of a staff, and plunged a!ead as a team# $istory told us t!e steps were !umdrum- appointments, offi*es, and departmental routine# :irst t!e poli*e# A *ommandant and assistants were *!osen- distri*ts allotted- provisional wages, indents, uniform, responsi ilities# (!e ma*!ine egan to fun*tion# (!en *ame a *omplaint of water-supply# (!e *onduit was foul wit! dead men and animals# An inspe*torate, wit! its la our *orps, solved t!is# 4mergen*y regulations were drafted# (!e day was drawing in, t!e world was in t!e streets - riotous# 'e *!ose an engineer to superintend t!e power-!ouse, *!arging !im at all pains to illuminate t!e town t!at nig!t# (!e resumption of street

lig!ting would e our most signal proof of pea*e# .t was done, and to its s!ining @uietness mu*! of t!e order of t!e first evening of vi*tory elonged- t!oug! our new poli*e were +ealous, and t!e grave s!ei&!s of t!e many @uarters !elped t!eir patrol# (!en sanitation# (!e streets were full of t!e de ris of t!e ro&en army, dereli*t *arts and *ars, aggage, material, *orpses# (yp!us, dysentery and pellagra were rife among t!e (ur&s, and sufferers !ad died in every s!adow along t!e line of mar*!# 0uri prepared s*avenger gangs to ma&e a first *learing of t!e pestilent roads and open pla*es, and rationed out !is do*tors among t!e !ospitals, wit! promises of drugs and food ne3t day, if any *ould e found# 0e3t a fire- rigade# (!e lo*al engines !ad een smas!ed y t!e Germans, and t!e Army store!ouses still urned, endangering t!e town# Me*!ani*s were *ried for) and trained men, pressed into servi*e, sent down to *ir*ums*ri e t!e flames# (!en t!e prisons# 'arders and inmates !ad vanis!ed from t!em toget!er# S!u&ri made a virtue of t!at, y amnesties, *ivil, politi*al, military# (!e *iti+ens must e disarmed--or at least dissuaded from *arrying rifles# A pro*lamation was t!e treatment, followed up y good-!umoured anter merging into poli*e a*tivity# (!is would effe*t our end wit!out mali*e in t!ree or four days# "elief wor&# (!e destitute !ad een !alf-starved for days# A distri ution of t!e damaged food from t!e Army store!ouses was arranged# After t!at food must e provided for t!e general# (!e *ity mig!t e starving in two days- t!ere were no sto*&s in Damas*us# (o get temporary supplies from t!e near villages was easy, if we restored *onfiden*e, safe-guarded t!e roads, and repla*ed t!e transport animals, w!i*! t!e (ur&s !ad *arried off, y ot!ers from t!e pool of *aptures# (!e %ritis! would not s!are out# 'e parted wit! our own animals- our Army transport# (!e routine feeding of t!e pla*e needed t!e railway# ,ointsmen, drivers, firemen, s!opmen, traffi* staff !ad to e found and reengaged immediately# (!en t!e telegrap!s- t!e >unior staff were availa ledire*tors must e found, and linesmen sent out to put t!e system in repair# (!e post *ould wait a day or two- ut @uarters for ourselves and t!e %ritis! were urgent- and so were t!e resumption of trade, t!e opening of s!ops, and t!eir *orollary needs ofmar&ets and a**epta le *urren*y# (!e *urren*y was !orri le# (!e Australians !ad looted millions in (ur&is! notes, t!e only stuff in use, and !ad redu*ed it to no value y t!rowing it a out# 8ne trooper gave a five !undred pound note to a lad w!o !eld !is !orse t!ree minutes# 1oung tried !is prenti*e-!and at olstering it wit! t!e last remnant of our A&a a gold- ut new pri*es !ad to e fi3ed, w!i*! involved t!e printing press) and !ardly was t!at settled w!en a newspaper was demanded# Also, as !eirs of t!e (ur&is! Government, t!e Ara s must maintain its re*ords of fis* and property- wit! t!e register of souls# '!ereas t!e old staffs were ta&ing >u ilant !oliday# "e@uisitions plagued us w!ile we were yet !alf-!ungry# C!auvel !ad no forage and !e !ad forty t!ousand !orses to feed# .f forage was not roug!t !im !e would go see& it and t!e new-lit freedom puff out li&e a mat*!# Syria?s status !ung on !is satisfa*tion) and we s!ould find little mer*y in !is >udgements# (a&en all in all, t!is was a usy evening# 'e rea*!ed an apparent end y sweeping delegation of offi*e Btoo often, in our !aste, to !ands unwort!yC, and y drasti* *utting down of effi*ien*y# Stirling t!e suave, 1oung t!e *apa le, and ;ir& ride t!e summary a*&ed to t!eir est t!e open-minded power of t!e Ara offi*ers# 8ur aim was a fa*ade rat!er t!an a fitted uilding# .t was run up so furiously well t!at w!en . left Damas*us on 8*to er t!e fourt! t!e Syrians !ad t!eir de facto Government, w!i*! endured for two years, wit!out foreign advi*e, in an o**upied *ountry wasted y war, and against t!e will of important elements among t!e Allies# 2ater . was sitting alone in my room, wor&ing and t!in&ing out as firm a way as t!e tur ulent memories of t!e day allowed, w!en t!e Mued!d!ins egan to send t!eir *all of last prayer t!roug! t!e moist nig!t over t!e illuminations of t!e feasting *ity# 8ne, wit! a ringing voi*e of spe*ial sweetness,

*ried into my window from a near mos@ue# . found myself involuntarily distinguis!ing !is words?God alone is great- . testify t!ere are no gods, ut God- and Mo!ammed !is ,rop!et# Come to prayer*ome to se*urity# God alone is great- t!ere is no god-- ut God#? At t!e *lose !e dropped !is voi*e two tones, almost to spea&ing level, and softly added- ?And $e is very good to us t!is day, 8 people of Damas*us#? (!e *lamour !us!ed, as everyone seemed to o ey t!e *all to prayer on t!is t!eir first nig!t of perfe*t freedom# '!ile my fan*y, in t!e overw!elming pause, s!owed me my loneliness and la*& of reason in t!eir movement- sin*e only for me, of all t!e !earers, was t!e event sorrowful and t!e p!rase meaningless#

&()PTE" &..I
Huiveringly a *iti+en wo&e me, wit! word t!at A d el ;adir was ma&ing re ellion# . sent over to 0uri Said, glad t!e Algerian fool was digging !is own pit# $e !ad *alled !is men, told t!em t!ese S!erifs were only 4nglis! *reatures, and *on>ured t!em to stri&e a low for religion and t!e Calip! w!ile t!ere was yet time# (!ey, simple retainers wit! an ingrained !a it of o edien*e, too& !is word for it, and set out to ma&e war on us# (!e Druses, for w!ose tardy servi*es . !ad t!is nig!t s!arply refused reward, listened to !im# (!ey were se*taries, *aring not!ing for .slam or Calip! or (ur&, or A d el ;adir- ut an anti-C!ristian rising meant plunder, and per!aps Maronites to &ill# So t!ey ran to arms, and egan to urst open s!ops# 'e !eld our !ands till day, for our num ers were not so great t!at we *ould t!row away our advantage in weapons, and fig!t in t!e dar& w!i*! made a fool and a man e@ual# %ut w!en dawn !inted itself we moved men to t!e upper su ur , and drove t!e rioters towards t!e river distri*ts of t!e town?s *entre, w!ere t!e streets *rossed ridges, and were easy to *ontrol# (!en we saw !ow small t!e trou le was# 0uri Said !ad *overed t!e parades wit! ma*!ine-gun se*tions, w!o, in one long rattle of fire, arraged t!em a*ross to lan& walls# ,ast t!ese our sweeping parties urged t!e dissident# (!e appalling noise made t!e Druses drop t!eir ooty and flee down side alleys# Mo!ammed Said, not so rave as !is rot!er, was ta&en in !is !ouse, and gaoled in t!e (own $all# Again . it*!ed to s!oot !im, ut waited till we !ad t!e ot!er# $owever, A d el ;ader ro&e a*& into t!e *ountry# At noon it was all over# '!en t!ings egan . !ad *alled up C!auvel, w!o at on*e offered !is troops# . t!an&ed !im, and as&ed t!at a se*ond *ompany of !orse e drafted to t!e (ur&is! arra*&s Bt!e nearest postC to stand y against *all- ut t!e fig!ting was too petty for t!at *all# .ts est *onse@uen*e was among t!e pressmen in an !otel w!ose wall was t!e stop- lo*& of one arrage# (!ey !ad not dipped t!eir pens in mu*! lood during t!is *ampaign, w!i*! !ad run faster t!an t!eir *ars) ut !ere was a godsend at t!eir edroom windows, and t!ey wrote and telegrap!ed till Allen y, away in "amle!, too& frig!t, sending me a ,ress despat*! w!i*! re*alled two %al&an wars and five Armenian massa*res, ut never *arnage li&e to-day?s- t!e streets paved wit! *orpses, t!e gutters running lood, and t!e swollen %arada spouting *rimson t!roug! all t!e fountains in t!e *ityA My reply was a deat!-roll, naming t!e five vi*tims, and t!e !urts of t!e ten wounded# 8f t!e *asualties t!ree fell to ;ir& ride?s rut!less revolver# (!e Druses were e3pelled from t!e *ity, and lost !orses and rifles at t!e !ands of t!e *iti+ens of Damas*us, w!om we !ad formed for t!e emergen*y into *ivi* guards# (!ese gave t!e town a warli&e loo&, patrolling till afternoon, w!en t!ings grew @uiet again, and street traffi* normal) wit! sweetmeats, i*ed drin&s, flowers, and little $e>a+ flags eing !aw&ed round y t!eir pedlars as efore# 'e returned to t!e organi+ation of t!e pu li* servi*es# An amusing event for me, personally, was an offi*ial *all from t!e Spanis! Consul, a polis!ed 4nglis!-spea&ing individual, w!o introdu*ed !imself as C!arge d?Affaires for seventeen nationalities Bin*luding all *om atants e3*ept t!e (ur&sC and was in vain sear*! of t!e *onstituted legal aut!ority of t!e town#

At lun*! an Australian do*tor implored me, for t!e sa&e of !umanity, to ta&e noti*e of t!e (ur&is! !ospital# . ran over in my mind our t!ree !ospitals, t!e military, t!e *ivil, t!e missionary, and told !im t!ey were *ared for as well as our means allowed# (!e Ara s *ould not invent drugs, nor *ould C!auvel give t!em to us# $e enlarged furt!er) des*ri ing an enormous range of filt!y uildings wit!out a single medi*al offi*er or orderly, pa*&ed wit! dead and dying) mainly dysentery *ases, ut at least some typ!oid) and, it was only to e !oped, no typ!us or *!olera# .n !is des*riptions . re*ogni+ed t!e (ur&is! arra*&s, o**upied y two Australian *ompanies of town reserve# 'ere t!ere sentries at t!e gatesJ 1es, !e said, t!at was t!e pla*e, ut- it was full of (ur&is! si*&# . wal&ed a*ross and parleyed wit! t!e guard, w!o distrusted my single appearan*e on foot# (!ey !ad orders to &eep out all natives lest t!ey massa*re t!e patients--a misappre!ension of t!e Ara fas!ion of ma&ing war# At last my 4nglis! spee*! got me past t!e little lodge w!ose garden was filled wit! two !undred wret*!ed prisoners in e3!austion and despair# (!roug! t!e great door of t!e arra*& . *alled, up t!e dusty e*!oing *orridors# 0o one answered# (!e !uge, deserted, sun-trapping *ourt was s@ualid wit! ru is!# (!e guard told me t!at t!ousands of prisoners from !ere !ad yesterday gone to a *amp eyond t!e town# Sin*e t!en no one !ad *ome in or out# . wal&ed over to t!e far t!oroug!fare, on w!ose left was a s!uttered lo y, la*& after t!e la+ing sunlig!t of t!e plastered *ourt# . stepped in, to meet a si*&ening sten*!- and, as my eyes grew open, a si*&ening sig!t# (!e stone floor was *overed wit! dead odies side y side, some in full uniform, some in under*lot!ing, some star& na&ed# (!ere mig!t e t!irty t!ere, and t!ey *rept wit! rats, w!o !ad gnawed wet red galleries into t!em# A few were *orpses nearly fres!, per!aps only a day or two old- ot!ers must !ave een t!ere for long# 8f some t!e fles!, going putrid, was yellow and lue and la*&# Many were already swollen twi*e or t!ri*e life-widt!, t!eir fat !eads laug!ing wit! la*& mout! a*ross >aws !ars! wit! stu le# 8f ot!ers t!e softer parts were fallen in# A few !ad urst open, and were li@ues*ent wit! de*ay# %eyond was t!e vista of a great room, from w!i*! . t!oug!t t!ere *ame a groan# . trod over to it, a*ross t!e soft mat of odies, w!ose *lot!ing, yellow wit! dung, *ra*&led dryly under me# .nside t!e ward t!e air was raw and still, and t!e dressed attalion of filled eds so @uiet t!at . t!oug!t t!ese too were dead, ea*! man rigid on !is stin&ing pallet, from w!i*! li@uid mu*& !ad dripped down to stiffen on t!e *emented floor# . pi*&ed forward a little etween t!eir lines, !olding my w!ite s&irts a out me, not to dip my are feet in t!eir puddled running- w!en suddenly . !eard a sig! and turned a ruptly to meet t!e open eady eyes of an outstret*!ed man, w!ile ?aman, aman? Bpity, pity, pardonC rustled from t!e twisted lips# (!ere was a rown waver as several tried to lift t!eir !ands, and a t!in fluttering li&e wit!ered leaves, as t!ey vainly fell a*& again upon t!eir eds# 0o one of t!em !ad strengt! to spea&, ut t!ere was somet!ing w!i*! made me laug! at t!eir w!ispering in unison, as if y *ommand# 0o dou t o**asion !ad een given t!em to re!earse t!eir appeal all t!e last two days, ea*! time a *urious trooper !ad peered into t!eir !alls and gone away# . ran t!roug! t!e ar*! into t!e garden, a*ross w!i*! Australians were pi*&eted in lines, and as&ed t!em for a wor&ing-party# (!ey refused# (oolsJ (!ey !ad none# Do*torsJ %usy# ;ir& ride *ame) t!e (ur&is! do*tors, we !eard, were upstairs# 'e ro&e open a door to find seven men in nig!t-gowns sitting on unmade eds in a great room, oiling toffee# 'e *onvin*ed t!em @ui*&ly t!at it would e wise to sort out living and dead, and prepare me, in !alf an !our, a tally of t!eir num ers# ;ir& ride?s !eavy frame and oots fitted !im to oversee t!is wor&- w!ile . saw Ali %a+a ,as!a, and as&ed !im to detail us one of t!e four Ara army do*tors# '!en !e *ame we pressed t!e fifty fittest prisoners in tie lodge as la our party# 'e oug!t is*uits and fed t!em- t!en armed t!em wit! (ur&is! tools and set t!em in t!e a*&yard to dig a *ommon grave# (!e Australian offi*ers protested it was an unfit pla*e, t!e smell arising from w!i*! mig!t drive t!em from t!eir garden# My >er&y reply was t!at . !oped to God it would#

.t was *ruelty to wor& men so tired and ill as our misera le (ur&s, ut !aste gave us no *!oi*e# %y t!e &i*&s and lows of t!eir vi*tor-serving non-*ommissioned offi*ers t!ey were at last got o edient# 'e egan operations on a si3-foot !ole to one side of t!e garden# (!is !ole we tried to deepen, ut eneat! was a *ement floor) so . said it would do if t!ey enlarged t!e edges# 0ear y was mu*! @ui*&lime, w!i*! would *over t!e odies effe*tually# (!e do*tors told us of fifty-si3 dead, two !undred dying, seven !undred not dangerously ill# 'e formed a stret*!er party to *arry down t!e *orpses, of w!i*! some were lifted easily, ot!ers !ad to e s*raped up pie*emeal wit! s!ovels# (!e earers were !ardly strong enoug! to stand at t!eir wor&indeed, efore t!e end, we !ad added t!e odies of two to t!e !eap of dead men in t!e pit# (!e tren*! was small for t!em, ut so fluid was t!e mass t!at ea*! new*omer, w!en tipped in, fell softly, >ust >ellying out t!e edges of t!e pile a little wit! !is weig!t# %efore t!e wor& finis!ed it was midnig!t, and . dismissed myself to ed, e3!austed, sin*e . !ad not slept t!ree !ours sin*e we left Deraa four days ago# ;ir& ride Ba oy in years, doing two men?s wor& t!ese daysC stayed to finis! t!e urying, and s*atter eart! and lime over t!e grave#

At t!e !otel waited a un*! of urgent matters- some deat! senten*es, a new >usti*iary, a famine in arley for t!e morrow if t!e train did not wor&# Also a *omplaint from C!auvel t!at some of t!e Ara troops !ad een sla*& a out salu ting Australian offi*ersA

&()PTE" &..II
%y morning, after t!e sudden fas!ion of trou les, t!ey were ended and our s!ip sailing under a *lear s&y# (!e armoured *ars *ame in, and t!e pleasure of our men?s sedate fa*es !eartened me# ,isani arrived, and made me laug!, so ewildered was t!e good soldier y t!e politi*al !u u # $e gripped !is military duty as a rudder to steer !im t!roug!# Damas*us was normal, t!e s!ops open, street mer*!ants trading, t!e ele*tri* tram*ars restored, grain and vegeta les and fruits *oming in well# (!e streets were eing watered to lay t!e terri le dust of t!ree war-years? lorry traffi*# (!e *rowds were slow and !appy, and num ers of %ritis! troops were wandering in t!e town, unarmed# (!e telegrap! was restored wit! ,alestine, and wit! %eyrout, w!i*! t!e Ara s !ad o**upied in t!e nig!t# As long ago as 'e>! . !ad warned t!em, w!en t!ey too& Damas*us to leave 2e anon for sop to t!e :ren*! and ta&e (ripoli instead) sin*e as a port it outweig!ed %eyrout, and 4ngland would !ave played t!e !onest ro&er for it on t!eir e!alf in t!e ,ea*e Settlement# So . was grieved y t!eir

mista&e, yet glad t!ey felt grown-up enoug! to re>e*t me# 4ven t!e !ospital was etter# . !ad urged C!auvel to ta&e it over, ut !e would not# At t!e time . t!oug!t !e meant to overstrain us, to >ustify !is ta&ing away our government of t!e town# $owever, sin*e, . !ave *ome to feel t!at t!e trou le etween us was a delusion of t!e ragged nerves w!i*! were >angling me to distra*tion t!ese days# Certainly C!auvel won t!e last round, and made me feel mean, for w!en !e !eard t!at . was leaving !e drove round wit! Godwin and t!an&ed me outrig!t for my !elp in !is diffi*ulties# Still, t!e !ospital was improving of itself# :ifty prisoners !ad *leaned t!e *ourtyard, urning t!e lousy ru is!# A se*ond gang !ad dug anot!er great grave-pit in t!e garden, and were +ealously filling it as opportunity offered# 8t!ers !ad gone t!roug! t!e wards, was!ing every patient, putting t!em into *leaner s!irts, and reversing t!eir mattresses to !ave a tolera ly de*ent side up# 'e !ad found food suita le for all ut *riti*al *ases, and ea*! ward !ad some (ur&is!spo&en orderly wit!in !earing, if a si*& man *alled# 8ne room we !ad *leared, rus!ed out and disinfe*ted, meaning to transfer into it t!e less ill *ases, and do t!eir room in turn# At t!is rate t!ree days would !ave seen t!ings very fit, and . was proudly *ontemplating ot!er enefits w!en a medi*al ma>or strode up and as&ed me s!ortly if . spo&e 4nglis!# 'it! a row of disgust for my s&irts and sandals !e said, ?1ou?re in *!argeJ Modestly . smir&ed t!at in a way . was, and t!en !e urst out, ?S*andalous, disgra*eful, outrageous, oug!t to e s!ot # # #? At t!is onslaug!t . *a*&led out li&e a *!i*&en, wit! t!e wild laug!ter of strain) it did feel e3traordinarily funny to e so *ursed >ust as . !ad een pluming myself on !aving ettered t!e apparently !opele ss# (!e ma>or !ad not entered t!e *!arnel !ouse of yesterday, nor smelt it, nor seen us urying t!ose odies of ultimate degradation, w!ose memory !ad started me up in ed, sweating and trem ling, a few !ours sin*e# $e glared at me, muttering ?%loody rute?# . !ooted out again, and !e sma*&ed me over t!e fa*e and stal&ed off, leaving me more as!amed t!an angry, for in my !eart . felt !e was rig!t, and t!at anyone w!o pus!ed t!roug! to su**ess a re ellion of t!e wea& against t!eir masters must *ome out of it so stained in estimation t!at afterward not!ing in t!e world would ma&e !im feel *lean# $owever, it was nearly over# '!en . got a*& to t!e !otel *rowds were esetting it, and at t!e door stood a grey "olls-"oy*e, w!i*! . &new for Allen y?s# . ran in and found !im t!ere wit! Clayton and Cornwallis and ot!er no le people# .n ten words !e gave !is approval to my !aving impertinently imposed Ara Governments, !ere and at Deraa, upon t!e *!aos of vi*tory# $e *onfirmed t!e appointment of A!? "i+a "i&a i as !is Military Governor, under t!e orders of :eisal, !is Army Commander, and regulated t!e Ara sp!ere and C!auvel?s# $e agreed to ta&e over my !ospital and t!e wor&ing of t!e railway# .n ten minutes all t!e maddening diffi*ulties !ad slipped away# Mistily . reali+ed t!at t!e !ars! days of my solitary attling !ad passed# (!e lone !and !ad won against t!e world?s odds, and . mig!t let my lim s rela3 in t!is dreamli&e *onfiden*e and de*ision and &indness w!i*! were Allen y# (!en we were told t!at :eisal?s spe*ial train !ad >ust arrived from Deraa# A message was !urriedly sent !im y 1oung?s mout!, and we waited till !e *ame, upon a tide of *!eering w!i*! eat up against our windows# .t was fitting t!e two *!iefs s!ould meet for t!e first time in t!e !eart of t!eir vi*tory) wit! myself still a*ting as t!e interpreter etween t!em# Allen y gave me a telegram from t!e :oreign 8ffi*e, re*ogni+ing to t!e Ara s t!e status of elligerents) and told me to translate it to t!e 4mir- ut none of us &new w!at it meant in 4nglis!, let alone in Ara i*- and :eisal, smiling t!roug! t!e tears w!i*! t!e wel*ome of !is people !ad for*ed from !im, put it aside to t!an& t!e Commander-in-C!ief for t!e trust w!i*! !ad made !im and !is movement# (!ey were a strange *ontrast- :eisal, large-eyed, *olourless and worn, li&e a fine dagger) Allen y, giganti* and red and merry, fit representative of t!e ,ower w!i*! !ad t!rown a girdle of !umour and strong dealing round t!e world# '!en :eisal !ad gone, . made to Allen y t!e last Band also . t!in& t!e firstC re@uest . ever made !im for myself--leave to go away# :or a w!ile !e would not !ave it) ut . reasoned, reminding !im of !is

year-old promise, and pointing out !ow mu*! easier t!e 0ew 2aw would e if my spur were a sent from t!e people# .n t!e end !e agreed) and t!en at on*e . &new !ow mu*! . was sorry#

EPIL#2%E
1amascus had not seemed a sheath for my sword, when $ landed in Arabia! but its capture disclosed the e%haustion of my main springs of action. the strongest motive throughout had been a personal one, not mentioned here, but present to me, $ think, every hour of these two years. Active pains and &oys might fling up, like towers, among my days! but, refluent as air, this hidden urge re formed, to be the persisting element of life, till near the end. $t was dead, before we reached damascus. )e%t in force had been a pugnacious wish to win the war! yoked to the conviction that without Arab help England could not pay the price of winning its Turkish sector. 2hen 1amascus fell, the eastern war probably the whole war drew to an end. Then $ was moved by curiosity. 0super flumina babylonis0, read as a boy, had left me longing to feel myself the node of a national movement. 2e took 1amascus, and $ feared. more than three arbitrary days would have 4uickened in me a root of authority. There remained historical ambition, insubstantial as a motive by itself. $ had dreamed, at the city school in 3%ford, of hustling into form, while $ lived, the new Asia which time was ine%orably bringing upon us. #ecca was to lead to 1amascus9 1amascus to Anatolia, and afterwards to "agdad9 and then there was 'emen. +antasies, these will seem, to such as are able to call my beginning an ordinary effort.

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