Study Unit

Study Unit
Automotive Cooling Systems
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Preview
In this study unit, youll learn why proper temperature control is important to engine operation. As an engine operates, combustion produces a lot of heat. This heat must be removed to prevent the engine components from being damaged. At the same time, however, the engines temperature must be kept high enough to ensure efficient operation. In an automotive engine, the cooling system is designed to maintain the proper operating temperature within an engine at all times. In this study unit, youll learn how each of the individual cooling-system components works, and how all the components work together to deliver coolant to all parts of an engine. Youll learn about the different types of coolant, and how they help protect engines from heat damage as well as from rust and corrosion. Finally, youll learn how to perform routine maintenance procedures on the cooling system, and how to troubleshoot problems within the system. When you complete this study unit, youll be able to
Map the flow of coolant through an automotive cooling system Explain the function of each cooling-system component Describe the steps you would take to inspect, test, and repair an engines cooling system List the common reasons why an engine overheats Describe how to measure the pressure in a cooling system Name the locations where coolant leaks are likely to occur in an automotive cooling system Describe how to replace the different components in the cooling system Analyze a description of a problem within an engine and determine the problem within the
cooling system
Contents
AUTOMOTIVE COOLING SYSTEMS 1
Introduction Three Methods of Heat Removal Liquid-Cooling Systems Engine Coolant Types of Antifreeze
COOLING-SYSTEM COMPONENTS AND THE FLOW OF COOLANT 13

The Water Pump The Water Pump Drive Belt The Coolant Passages The Radiator The Radiator Pressure Cap The Coolant Recovery System Radiator Fans Coolant System Hoses The Thermostat Temperature Gages A Review of the Flow of Coolant Air-Cooling Systems
COOLING-SYSTEM MAINTENANCE 47
Checking the Coolant Level Adding Coolant to an Engine Testing the Coolant Changing the Coolant Handling Antifreeze
INSPECTING, TESTING, AND REPAIRING A COOLING SYSTEM 64

Inspecting a Radiator Inspecting Hoses Inspecting the Radiator Pressure Cap Inspecting a Water Pump Inspecting a Water Pump Drive Belt Inspecting a Cooling System for Leaks Testing a Thermostat Cooling-System Repairs Troubleshooting Cooling-System Problems
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Contents
SUMMARY 97 POWER CHECK ANSWERS 99 EXAMINATION 101

AUTOMOTIVE COOLING SYSTEMS
Introduction
As youve learned, an automotive engine produces a great deal of heat as it operates. This heat is produced by the burning air-and-fuel mixture inside the engines cylinders. Its normal for an engine to become hot during operation; however, excessive heat can damage an engine. Too much heat in an engine can actually cause components to melt. If the engine becomes too hot, the valve heads and the piston heads usually experience the most damage, since these components are located in the combustion chamber, where temperatures are the highest. High engine temperatures can also cause fuel to evaporate before it reaches the combustion chamber, thus preventing the engine from running. At this point, you may think that a cold engine runs better than a hot one. Well, this isnt really true. An engine thats too cold produces less power and is less efficient than a warm engine. In a cold engine, the intake manifold is cold. As the fuel vapor comes in contact with the cold manifold, the fuel condenses and forms droplets on the manifold walls. This condensation causes a reduction in engine power, since vaporized fuel burns better than liquid fuel. More fuel needs to be supplied to a cold engine to compensate for condensation. This means a cold engine uses more fuel to produce the same amount of power as a warm engine. You may have noticed this when operating your own vehicle. Most automotive engines operate better after theyve run for a few minutes. As you can see, an engine thats either too hot or too cold wont run properly. Because an engines temperature is so important to its operation, the temperature must be maintained within the proper operating range. A small amount of heat is removed from an engine by its lubrication system; however, most of the heat is removed by the engines cooling system. The cooling system prevents an engine from getting too hot, while maintaining the proper operating temperature so it doesnt get too cold. Although cooling systems vary slightly in design, they all have the same basic functionto keep the engine at its proper operating temperature. In modern automobiles, two types of cooling systems are used: liquid-cooling systems and air-cooling systems. While liquid-cooling systems are much more common, both of these types of systems can efficiently remove heat from an engine.
Before you learn about cooling systems in detail, lets take a look at some of the ways heat is removed from an engine.
Three Methods of Heat Removal

There are three different methods used to remove heat from an object, including an engine: conduction, convection, and radiation. Lets take a look at these three heat removal methods in detail. Conduction is the direct transfer of heat from one object to another. Burning your finger on a hot stovetop is one example of conductionthe heat from the stovetop is transferred to your finger. Heat may be transferred by conduction between any two solid objectssuch as the stove and your fingerbetween a solid object and a liquid, or between two liquids. For example, if you place a hot metal object into a bucket of cool water, the objects heat is transferred into the water that surrounds it. As a result, the object is cooled. Conduction is used to cool automotive engines. In most engines, a liquid coolant is circulated through the engine components to keep them cool. As the liquid flows through the engine, it picks up heat from the hot metal parts that it touches. The heat from the engine is then conducted into the liquid. Convection is the transfer of heat from an object to the air that surrounds it. If you take a hot dish of food out of an oven and allow it to cool on your countertop, you have cooled the food by convection. The heat of the food is absorbed into the cool air that surrounds it. Cooling by convection would also occur if you placed the hot dish of food inside a refrigerator. Even though the food isnt in direct contact with the refrigeration unit, its cooled by the cold air that surrounds it. Some of the heat in an automotive engine is removed by convection. Under the vehicles hood, cool outside air surrounds the engine. Some of the engines heat is absorbed by this air as it passes over the engine. The air-cooling effect is increased if the air is blown quickly over the engine, which happens when the automobile travels at high speeds. As the vehicle moves over the road, air is forced past the engine components to provide a cooling effect. Some heat is also removed by air that flows through the inside of an engine. Remember that during the exhaust stage of the engine cycle, exhaust gases leave the engine cylinder and move out of the engine through the exhaust system. The exhaust gases carry some heat with them out of the engine. You can easily feel this heat by holding your hand near an exhaust pipe when a vehicle is running.
The third possible method of heat removal is radiation. Radiation is the transfer of heat through energy waves that are similar to light waves. In this heat removal method, some of the heat energy from one object is transferred through the air to another nearby object. The heat produced by the sun is radiant energy. The suns heat is actually waves of heat energy that move from the surface of the sun to the earth. We can all feel the suns heat from a great distance, so you can see how powerful radiant heat can be. An automotive engine loses some heat through radiation. A small amount of heat produced by the engine radiates to and is absorbed by other nearby automotive parts, such as the frame and body panels. If you place your hand on a cars hood after the engine has been running for a while, you can feel this radiant heat. In order to remove as much heat as possible, a typical automotive engine uses a combination of all three heat removal methods to maintain a proper operating temperature. Radiation and convection remove some heat, but the vast majority of an engines heat is removed by conduction. In a typical liquid-cooling system, heat is transferred from the hot engine parts to a liquid coolant through conduction. Then, the warm liquid coolant is removed from the engine and circulated through a radiator, where more heat is removed through convection and radiation. Now, lets look at the basic operation of an automotive cooling system.
Liquid-Cooling Systems
As you just learned, an automobile can contain either a liquid-cooling system or an air-cooling system. Liquid-cooling systems are the most common. An engine that uses a liquid-cooling system is simply called a liquid-cooled engine. In this type of system, a liquid coolant is pumped through passages in the engine. The coolant absorbs heat from the hot metal components as it flows through the engine passages. The liquid coolant is then taken outside the engine and is cooled by the air that flows through the engine compartment as the car operates. Then, the cooled liquid is circulated back through the engine so that it can once again remove heat from the engine. This type of automotive cooling system is a closed system. In other words, the same coolant is circulated through the engine over and over again. The coolant thats used in liquid-cooling systems is usually a mixture of water and antifreeze. Figure 1A shows a simplified view of a typical liquid-cooling system, and Figure 1B shows a more detailed view of the components in the system. Lets begin by examining the water passages in the engine it-
self. A typical engine block isnt a solid piece of metal. Instead, the engine block is somewhat hollow, especially in the area around each cylinder. These hollow areas in the engine block are called the water jackets, because they surround the cylinders just as a jacket would surround the person wearing it. As the engine operates, coolant flows through the water jackets. Since the hottest areas of the engine block are the areas that surround each cylinder, the coolant that flows through these areas removes most of the heat thats produced during combustion. So, as the air-and-fuel mixture is burned in the cylinders, the heat of combustion is transferred to the liquid coolant that circulates around the outside of the cylinder walls. In most engines, the water jackets are relatively large, and allow a large volume of liquid coolant to flow through the engine. In general, the larger the water jackets, the easier it is to keep the engine cool. In addition to circulating in the water jackets, coolant also circulates through the inside of the cylinder head. Like the engine block, the cylinder head also contains coolant passageways, particularly around the combustion chambers. Coolant flows to the cylinder head through passageways that lead from the water jacket in the engine block. In order to properly remove heat from an engine, coolant must be continually circulated through the cooling system. The component that circulates the coolant through an engine is the water pump. The water pump is usually mounted near the front of the engine, often right into the engines front cover. The design of water pumps varies from engine to engine, but they all work in a similar way. On most engines, the water pump is driven by the crankshaft. Usually, a pulley on the front end of the crankshaft is connected to a pulley on the water pump by a rubber fan belt (Figure 1A). The belt causes the water pump shaft to rotate as the crankshaft turns. As the water pump shaft rotates, coolant is pumped through the water jacket and the other water passages. Running the water pump off the crankshaft ensures that the water pump operates whenever the engine is running. As youve learned, liquid coolant absorbs heat as it passes through an engine. Once it has absorbed this heat, the hot coolant is taken outside the engine so that it can be cooled by the outside air. The water pump not only circulates the coolant inside the engineit also pumps the coolant outside of the engine block and through the radiator. The radiator is the device thats used to reduce the temperature of the coolant once it leaves the engine. A radiator is a type of heat exchanger. This means a radiator transfers the heat in the coolant to the air that flows through the radiator.
FIGURE 1Figure 1A shows a simplified view of a typical liquid-cooling system, and Figure 1B shows a more detailed view of the system components.
A radiator contains many small tubes that coolant can flow through. Each of these tubes is surrounded by thin metal plates called fins. The fins increase the amount of surface area on the radiator thats exposed to the air, allowing the radiator to cool better. As air flows through the radiator, it cools the coolant that flows inside the small tubes in the radiator. Once the coolant has been cooled by the radiator, the coolant is circulated back into the engine by the water pump. The radiator is connected to the engine and to the water pump by rubber hoses called radiator hoses. Most cooling systems contain two separate radiator hoses: an upper radiator hose and a lower radiator hose (Figure 1B). The upper radiator hose carries the coolant from the engine to the radiator. This hose is called the upper hose because its usually attached to the top of both the engine and the radiator. The lower hose, also called the inlet hose, carries coolant from the radiator back to the engine. This hose is called the lower hose because its usually mounted on the lower part of the radiator and engine. As you can see, the coolant in the radiator is cooled by the air that blows through it. Therefore, the radiator is usually mounted at the very front of the vehicle so air can blow through it. This positioning allows air to be directed into the radiator as the vehicle moves down the road. This system works well when a vehicle is moving, but what happens when a vehicle is standing still? When a vehicle is standing still, no air flows naturally through the radiator, so a fan is needed to keep the radiator cool. The fan also helps to increase the flow of air through the radiator when a vehicle is moving. This is especially useful in very hot weather, when the radiator may need some additional air cooling. In many automotive engines, the fan is mounted to the water pump. This allows the fan to be driven by the same rubber belt that drives the water pump. This type of fan is called a belt-driven fan. However, in some engines, the fan may be operated by a small electric motor. This type of fan is called an electric fan. Both types of fans, however, operate much like a common household fan. The fan blades simply rotate and pull air through the radiator. So far, youve learned how coolant removes heat from an engine. However, what prevents the coolant from simply boiling and turning to vapor inside a hot engine? You can keep liquid coolant from boiling by pressurizing the coolant or adding antifreeze to it. Antifreeze is a special compound that enhances the cooling abilities of plain water. You know that plain water boils at 212 degrees Fahrenheit (100 degrees Celsius) under normal conditions. However, if you add antifreeze to plain water, the resulting mixture has a higher boiling point. And, if you place pressure on the liquid coolant, the boiling point in-
creases even more. Thus, if water is mixed with antifreeze and is then placed under pressure, it boils at a much hotter temperature than 212 degrees. Therefore, both methods are used to prevent the coolant in an automotive cooling system from boiling. Because pressurizing the coolant raises its boiling point, most automotive liquid-cooling systems are pressurized systems. This means that the coolant in the system is under pressure while the engine is operating. This pressure in the system develops because as the coolant warms, it expands. The amount of pressure in the system is controlled by a special cap on the system called a pressure cap. The pressure cap prevents coolant from escaping out of the system as long as the pressure stays below a specified safe level, usually about 1015 psi. If the pressure in the system gets higher than that, the pressure cap opens and releases some coolant until the pressure once again falls below the specified safe level. The coolant thats let out by the pressure cap flows through a small rubber hose to a plastic holding bottle called a coolant recovery tank. When the engine cools down, a valve in the pressure cap opens to allow the coolant to reenter the cooling system. Now, lets look at how the temperature in the cooling system is controlled. The device that controls the cooling-system temperature is called a thermostat. The thermostat is a check valve that controls when the coolant is allowed to leave the engine and pass through the radiator. When an engine is cold, the thermostat stays closed and blocks the flow of coolant out of the engine. The thermostat wont open until the engine reaches its proper operating temperature, which is usually between 180 and 210 degrees Fahrenheit. When the engine reaches its operating temperature, the thermostat opens and allows coolant to flow out of the engine and into the radiator to be cooled. Remember that an engine wont run efficiently if its too cold. If the coolant was allowed to flow through the engine before it was warm, the engine would be cooled too much and would never reach its correct operating temperature. This is why the thermostat wont open until the engine reaches its proper operating temperature. In most vehicles, warm coolant is used to provide heat inside the passenger compartment. Small rubber hoses called heater hoses carry some coolant from the engine and route it to the passenger compartment. Inside the passenger compartment, the coolant flows through a heat exchanger called a heater core (Figure 2). A heater core is actually just a small radiator. Air is blown by a small electric fan or blower through the heater core and over the small tubes that contain warm coolant. The air is warmed by the coolant as it flows through the heater core. The warmed air is then directed to various outlets in the passenger compartment, providing heat for the driver and passengers. The components of a typical automotive heater system are shown in Figure 2.
FIGURE 2The components of a typical heater system are shown here.
Youll examine the operation of the heater system in much more detail in a later study unit. However, keep in mind that some coolant is directed to a vehicles heating system. Coolant may also be routed to other engine components. For example, a small amount of coolant may be used to cool a turbocharger unit (Figure 3), or to help cool the oil in an engines lubrication system.
FIGURE 3On many turbocharged engines, a small amount of coolant from the cooling system is routed through the turbocharger to prevent oil breakdown or bearing failure.
Engine Coolant
The coolant thats used in automotive engines is usually a mixture of water and antifreeze. As its name implies, antifreeze helps to prevent the water in a cooling system from freezing. In colder climates, automobiles are frequently exposed to temperatures far below the freezing point of water32 degrees Fahrenheitso the anti-freeze function is very important. If plain water was used in a cooling system, the water would simply turn into ice in very cold temperatures. Its important to remember that water expands when it freezes. Water is the only substance in nature that does thisall other substances tend to get smaller in cold temperatures. If water freezes inside an engine block, the resulting ice can expand so much and with such force
that it actually cracks the engine block. If this happens, the entire engine block needs to be replaced. This is actually a relatively common occurrence in vehicles that are poorly maintained. Thus, you can see why its so important to add antifreeze to the water in a cooling system. The antifreeze lowers the freezing point of the mixture. The more antifreeze thats added, the more the freezing point is loweredup to a certain point. As a rule, the maximum amount of antifreeze that should be used in a cooling system is about 70 percent of the total liquid volume. If more antifreeze than that is added, it will begin to reduce the mixtures ability to remove heat from the engine. Under most conditions, a mixture of half water and half antifreeze will provide enough protection. This mixture is commonly called a 50-50 mixture. Plain water freezes at a temperature of 32 degree Fahrenheit. However, a 50-50 mixture of antifreeze and water wont freeze until the temperature is much lower. This temperature is low enough to provide most vehicles with adequate protection. If a vehicle is operated in a very cold climate, more antifreeze can be added; if a vehicle is operated in a hot climate, less antifreeze can be used. A vehicles service manual should specify the amount of antifreeze thats needed in particular weather conditions (Figure 4). However, a special tester can also be used to determine the exact amount of antifreeze that a vehicle needs. Youll learn about this testing procedure in detail later in the study unit.
FIGURE 4A vehicles service manual usually contains a chart that lists antifreeze mixture percentages, as shown here. (Used
with permission of Mazda North American Operations)
In addition to protecting the coolant from freezing, antifreeze keeps the coolant from boiling. Remember that an engine normally operates between 180 and 210 degrees Fahrenheit. This temperature is fairly hot, especially when you remember that plain water boils at 212 degrees. Earlier, you learned that when coolant is pressurized, its boiling point rises. The pressurization offers the coolant some protection from boiling; however, most of the protection is provided by the antifreeze. Unlike plain water, a 50-50 mixture of antifreeze and water thats pressurized to about 14 psi wont boil until it reaches a temperature of about 260 degrees. Thus, antifreeze helps to raise the boiling point of
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the coolant, as well as lower its freezing point. Because of this, the engine temperature can rise well above its normal operating temperature without causing the coolant to boil and turn to vapor. Most antifreeze contains additives that prevent rust and corrosion in the cooling system. In addition, many types also contain special lubricants that lubricate moving parts, such as the water pump. As you can see, antifreeze greatly enhances the protective abilities of the coolant in an engine.
Types of Antifreeze
Up until a few years ago, all automotive antifreeze was made from the same ingredients. However, in recent years, some new materials have been added to the old antifreeze formula. The following three types of antifreeze are commonly used today: (1) ethylene glycol antifreeze; (2) extended-life antifreeze; and (3) low-tox antifreeze. Automotive antifreeze is produced by several different manufacturers; however, its all similar. The purpose of the antifreeze is the same, regardless of its type. All antifreeze is mixed in the same way, using the same mixture ratios. A vehicles service manual usually lists the manufacturers recommended antifreeze; however, in most cases, any type of antifreeze can be used in any vehicle. Lets take a closer look at each type of antifreeze.
Ethylene Glycol Antifreeze

In the past, the most common type of antifreeze used in automobiles was made of a compound called ethylene glycol. This compound is mixed with plain water to form the coolant mixture thats used in an engine. Adding ethylene glycol antifreeze to the water in a cooling system raises the boiling point and lowers the freezing point of the coolant. In addition, special additives in the ethylene glycol antifreeze help prevent corrosion in the system, and also provide some lubrication for the water pump. Ethylene glycol antifreeze is still manufactured by several different companies, such as Prestone and Zerex, and can be purchased at any auto parts store. The antifreeze is usually sold in one-gallon containers that make it easy to measure and pour into an automotive cooling system. The life span of traditional ethylene glycol antifreeze in a cooling system is limited. When the antifreeze can no longer prevent the buildup of corrosion and rust in the system, it must be drained from the system and replaced. Manufacturers usually recommend a coolant change interval for each of their vehicles. However, in most automobiles, coolant should be changed once a year.
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Extended-Life Antifreeze
Because the life of traditional ethylene glycol is limited, some manufacturers now produce an extended-life antifreeze that lasts much longer than ordinary antifreeze. Extended-life antifreeze is a special type of antifreeze that contains anticorrosion additives. These additives extend the life of the antifreeze and allow it to be used much longer before it has to be replaced. One type of extended-life antifreeze is called DexCool, and is produced by Havoline. Extended-life antifreeze is still based on ethylene glycol; however, unlike ethylene glycol antifreeze, extended-life antifreeze doesn't need to be changed every year. Instead, extended-life antifreeze may need to be changed only after every 100,000 miles, or every five years. Extended-life antifreeze lasts approximately five times as long as traditional antifreeze. Because it provides better protection and doesnt need to be changed as often, extended-life antifreeze is becoming very popular. Because ethylene glycol antifreeze and extended-life antifreeze contain different ingredients, the two types of antifreeze shouldnt be mixed together. Extended-life antifreeze is usually brownish-orange in color, so it can be easily distinguished from traditional ethylene glycol antifreeze, which is usually pale green.
Low-Tox Antifreeze
Youve learned that both ethylene glycol antifreeze and extended-life antifreeze are commonly used in automobiles, and provide good protection. However, antifreeze thats made from ethylene glycol is poisonous if ingested. If ethylene glycol antifreeze is ingested, it can cause crystals to form in the kidneys, which can cause permanent kidney damage or even death. This makes these substances hazardous to small children and pets. Ethylene glycol antifreeze has a sweet taste and smell thats very appealing to pets, and its bright color may attract small children. For this reason, its important to keep the antifreeze out of the reach of children and pets. Because of the hazards associated with ethylene glycol antifreeze, some companies now produce a low-tox antifreeze thats safer for people, pets, and the environment. Most low-tox antifreeze is made from a compound called propylene glycol, which is much less hazardous than ethylene glycol. Low-tox antifreeze provides the same type of engine protection as traditional ethylene glycol antifreeze. At present, low-tox antifreeze is slightly more expensive than other types of antifreeze. However, as its popularity increases, the price should lower. Product surveys have demonstrated that many consumers are interested in using low-tox antifreeze because of its reduced health hazards.
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Now, take a few moments to review what youve learned by completing Power Check 1.
Power Check 1
At the end of each section of Automotive Cooling Systems, youll be asked to pause and check your understanding of what youve just read by completing a Power Check exercise. Writing the answers to these questions will help you to review what youve studied so far. Please complete Power Check 1 now. 1. Antifreeze made from propylene glycol is called _______ antifreeze. 2. A combination of three heat removal methods is used to remove the heat from automotive engines. These three methods are _______, _______, and _______. 3. A mixture thats one-half water and one-half antifreeze is called a _______. 4. The transfer of heat from an object to the air that surrounds it is called _______. 5. The coolant liquid thats used in a liquid-cooling system is usually a mixture of water and _______. 6. The transfer of heat through energy waves is called _______. 7. In a liquid-cooled engine, the hollow areas around the cylinders that hold coolant are called _______. 8. The direct transfer of heat from one object to another is called _______. Questions 920: Indicate whether the following statements are True or False. _____ 9. A warm engine uses more fuel to produce the same amount of power as a cold engine. _____ 10. The proper operating temperature of an automotive engine is usually between 180 and 210 degrees Fahrenheit. _____ 11. If antifreeze is added to plain water, the resulting mixture has a lower boiling point than plain water. _____ 12. Extended-life antifreeze is usually pale green in color, and ethylene glycol antifreeze is usually brownish-orange. _____ 13. If water is allowed to freeze inside a cooling system, the water expands inside the engine block and causes serious damage.
(Continued)
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Power Check 1
_____ 14. If you place pressure on liquid coolant, the boiling point of the coolant increases. _____ 15. When antifreeze is added to plain water, the resulting mixture has a lower freezing point than plain water. _____ 16. Most antifreeze contains additives that help prevent rust and corrosion, as well as lubricants that help lubricate moving parts. _____ 17. As a rule, regular ethylene glycol antifreeze should be drained from a vehicle and replaced at least once a year. _____ 18. Extended-life antifreeze lasts approximately ten times longer than regular antifreeze. _____ 19. Regular ethylene glycol antifreeze and extended-life antifreeze can be mixed together and used in a cooling system. _____ 20. Antifreeze made from ethylene glycol can be poisonous if ingested. Check your answers with those on page 99.
COOLING-SYSTEM COMPONENTS AND THE FLOW OF COOLANT

The Water Pump
Every automotive engine with a liquid-cooling system uses some type of pump to move the coolant through the system. You just learned that this pump is commonly called a water pump, even though the coolant is actually a mixture of water and antifreeze. The purpose of the water pump is simply to circulate coolant through the system. Unlike an oil pump, a water pump doesnt pressurize the coolantit simply moves it through the various passages in the cooling system.
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The construction of a water pump is relatively simple. Three views of a typical water pump assembly are shown in Figure 5. The main parts of the pump are the cast-iron or aluminum pump housing, a steel shaft, and metal impeller blades (Figure 5A). The housing has two openings, a coolant inlet and a coolant outlet. The impeller blades are attached to the end of the rotating shaft, and the shaft and impeller assembly is held inside the housing. Bearings are used to support the shaft and allow it to spin freely. A pump also has a seal that holds coolant inside the pump and prevents it from leaking out around the rotating shaft (Figure 5B). The impeller blades are designed to circulate water through the cooling system. A gasket fits between the pump and block to keep the assembly from leaking (Figure 5C). Figure 6 shows an external view of a typical water pump installation. This pump is bolted to the front of the engine block. A rubber drive belt connects a pulley on the end of the water pump shaft to a pulley on the end of the crankshaft. Once the engine is started, the belt transfers the rotation of the crankshaft to the water pump shaft, causing the shaft to rotate. As the water pump shaft rotates, the impeller blades also rotate, moving the coolant around in the cooling system. In most vehicles, the water pump is mounted to the engines front cover in this way and driven by the crankshaft. Running the water pump off the crankshaft ensures that the pump operates whenever the crankshaft is turningthat is, whenever the engine is turned on. In Figure 6, a fan is attached to the end of the water pump shaft. This fan is used to draw cool air through the radiator. In this system, the fan is driven by the same belt that drives the water pump. Note the connection of the upper radiator hose and the lower radiator hose to the water pump. Also, note that this water pump also has a bypass hose attached to it. The bypass hose allows coolant to circulate from the engine block back into the pump when the thermostat is closed. This type of bypass arrangement is used on many cars. Now, lets take a closer look at the internal operation of a water pump. A water pumps impeller blades operate much like a paddle wheel. As the coolant enters the pump housing through the inlet, it hits the spinning impeller blades. The motion of the blades pushes the coolant along through the pump housing and out of the coolant outlet. Figure 7A illustrates the operation of the impeller blades, and Figure 7B shows how coolant flows through the water pump. As you learned, the water pump is driven by the engines crankshaft. However, in some engines, a water pump thats mounted on the front cover may actually be driven by the timing belt. This arrangement is often seen in overhead-camshaft engines. In these engines, the timing belt drives the water pump as well as the camshafts in the cylinder head.
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FIGURE 5Figure 5A shows a cutaway side view of a water pump. Figure 5B shows a second view of the pump. In this illustration, you can see the bypass, the coolant inlet, coolant outlet, the drive pulley, the drive belt, and the bearings. Figure 5C shows an end view of the pump. In this view, you can clearly see the impeller blades and the gasket. (Figure 5CUsed with permission of Mazda North American Operations)
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FIGURE 6This figure shows an external view of a typical water pump installation. Note the connections of the hoses and the fan in the illustration.
FIGURE 7Figure 7A illustrates the operation of the impeller blades, and Figure 7B shows how coolant flows through the water pump.
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The Water Pump Drive Belt

In most engines, the water pump is driven by a rubber belt that connects that pump to the crankshaft. Once the belt is in place, the belt causes the water pump shaft to operate whenever the crankshaft rotates. Two common types of belts are used on automobiles: the V-type belt and the serpentine belt. The V-type belt gets its name from its crosssection, which looks like the letter V. Several V-type belts may be used in an engine to drive its accessories, such as the water pump. A typical V-type drive belt is shown in Figure 8A, and Figure 8B shows a cross-section of the belt construction. Note how the belt is a closed loop. Most V-type belts are made of rubber with strands of fiber molded into the rubber to give the belt strength. V-type belts come in different lengths and different thicknesses. Each make and model of vehicle uses a different belt. For this reason, a belt must be replaced with a belt thats specifically made for that vehicle.
FIGURE 8A typical V-type drive belt is shown in Figure 8A, and Figure 8B shows a cross-section of the belt construction.
The inner sides of the V-belt fit in the pulleys that are used to drive the belt. Each pulley has a V-shaped groove in it to match the shape of the belt. Once the belt is installed in the pulley groove, the sides of the belt are in contact with the inner sides of the pulley. Because a large area of the belt is in contact with the sides of the pulley, the belt is able to drive the water pump without slipping on the pulley. Its the sides of the belt that contact the pulley, not the inside edge of the belt. In addition, since the belt has a V shape, the belt grips into the pulley more tightly when the tension on the belt is increased. A serpentine drive belt is a special type of belt that has a flat side and a V-ribbed side, as shown in Figure 9. A serpentine belt is much wider, thinner, and longer than a typical V-belt. Instead of using several Vbelts to drive accessories, an engine can use just one long serpentine belt to drive several accessories at the same time. Serpentine belts get their name from the way that they wrap in and around all of the engine pulleys, like a serpent or snake.
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Corporation)
FIGURE 9A crosssection of a typical serpentine belt is shown here. (Courtesy of Chrysler
Figure 10A shows an engine that uses a serpentine belt to drive all of its accessories. Figure 10B shows a more complex serpentine drive belt system that drives more accessories, including the water pump, the power-steering pulley, the alternator, and the air-conditioning compressor. In each of these figures, you can also see the idler pulley that the serpentine belt wraps around. This idler pulley is used to keep the proper tension on the belt at all times. The idler pulley is made so that it can move side to side. A larger spring is built into the idler pulley that keeps the pulley pushing on the belt to keep the tension tight. The engines service manual contains a diagram of the proper routing of the serpentine belt.
The Coolant Passages

As you learned, coolant flows thorough passages in the engine block and the cylinder head to help to keep the engine cool. As the coolant flows through these passages, it absorbs heat from the parts and transfers it outside the engine to the radiator, where the heat can be released. Coolant passages are machined into an engine block or cylinder head when theyre manufactured. The largest passages are found near the cylinders, especially around the combustion chambers, where most of an engines heat is produced. When coolant passages are machined into an engine block, openings are often left in the block from the machining process, mainly around the water jackets. These openings expose the coolant passages. Because cylinder heads are usually fairly small, most cylinder heads wont have these openings in them. However, because the engine block is large, it usually contains several openings along the sides and at each end. These openings are found in different places and are made in different sizes depending on the engine. However, most openings are round and measure between one and two inches in diameter.
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ler Corporation)
FIGURE 10Figure 10A shows an engine that uses a serpentine belt to drive all of its accessories. Figure 10B shows a more complex serpentine belt drive system that drives several engine accessories. (Courtesy of Chrys-
Since these openings expose the coolant passages, they must be covered somehow so that the coolant wont leak out. Cup-shaped metal plugs are used to cover the openings. These plugs are commonly called core plugs. Figure 11 shows some typical core plugs installed in an engine
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block. Core plugs are made of thin metal and are made to be slightly larger than the openings in the engine block. The plugs are pressed into the side of the engine block to form a tight seal. Usually, the plugs are installed by tapping them into place with a hammer and punch. Since the plugs are a little larger than the holes in the block, the plugs fit tightly, and they prevent any coolant from leaking out of the engine block. In addition, since the plugs fit so tightly in the block, the plugs wont come out, even with the pressure of the coolant in the system.
FIGURE 11This figure shows core plugs installed in an engine block.
An engine block usually also contains a hole that leads into the water jacket. This hole is usually much smaller than the other holes, and is sealed off with a small threaded plug called a block drain plug (Figure 12). An automotive technician uses this threaded plug to drain the coolant from the block during servicing. The plug can be unthreaded from the block and removed, which allows the coolant to drain from the block. Since the block drain plug is used to drain the coolant out of the block, its usually located on the side of the engine block, near the bottom of the water jacket. An in-line engine usually contains one block drain plug. However, a V-type engine that has two separate rows of cylinders usually contains two block drain plugs, one on each side of the engine.
FIGURE 12A hole in the engine block that leads into the water jacket is sealed off with a small threaded plug called a block drain plug. The block drain plug is removed from the engine block during servicing to allow the coolant to drain from the block. (Printed with
permission from Honda Motor Co., Inc.)
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The Radiator
As youve learned, a radiator is a type of heat exchanger thats used to remove heat from the coolant that has circulated through a hot engine. A radiator usually has three main components: a core and two tanks. The core is the center section of the radiator where the cooling takes place. The tanks on each end of the radiator direct the flow of coolant in and out of the radiator core. An external view of the components of a typical radiator is shown in Figure 13.
FIGURE 13An external view of the components of a typical radiator is shown here.
Radiator cores are usually made of brass or aluminum. The core consists of many small, hollow tubes that extend from one side of the radiator to the other. In between the small tubes are thin metal fins that increase the amount of surface area thats exposed to the air. A cutaway view of a typical radiator core is shown in Figure 14. As the hot coolant flows through these small tubes, heat is transferred from the coolant to the tubes and to the metal fins that surround the tubes. Air is blown through the radiator core over the tubes and fins, and the heat from the core is transferred to the air, cooling the radiator core and the coolant inside.
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FIGURE 14A cutaway view of a typical radiator core is shown here.
Small holding tanks made of brass or plastic are mounted directly to each end of the radiator core. The holding tanks hold the coolant as it flows in and out of the core. The radiator tanks are usually soldered onto the radiator core if the tank is made of brass, or glued onto the core if the tanks are plastic. (The glue thats used for this purpose is similar to the glue used in a hot glue gun for hobbies and crafts.) Each tank has an opening that allows the coolant to flow in or out. In a typical cooling system, the coolant flows into the tank through a radiator hose thats attached to the tank opening. The coolant then flows from this tank into the small tubes of the radiator core, and then out to the tank on the other side of the radiator. The coolant then flows out of the tank through another radiator hose, and back into the engine. In addition to the openings where the radiator hoses attach, one radiator tank usually has an additional opening called the filler neck. The filler neck holds the radiators pressure cap and is usually located at the very top of the tank. This allows the cap to be removed easily so that the cooling system can be filled with coolant. An additional opening in the radiator tank is usually located on the very bottom of one of the tanks. This opening is used by the technician to drain the coolant from the radiator so that the system can be serviced. In most radiators, a small valve called a petcock is mounted in this opening. The petcock can easily be opened to allow the coolant to drain out, or closed to seal the opening. The location of the petcock is shown in Figure 15A, and Figure 15B shows a close-up view of the petcock after it has been removed from the radiator. In most vehicles, the radiator tanks also contain two additional fittings. Metal lines are attached to these fittings, and the lines are used to connect the radiator tanks to the vehicles transmission, as shown in Figure 16. Because the fluid used in an automatic transmission can become very warm, its common to route some of the transmission fluid
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through a tube thats placed inside one of the radiator tanks. The tube is sealed so that the transmission fluid cant mix with the coolant. One line transfers fluid from the transmission to the radiator, and the other line returns the fluid back to the transmission. As the transmission fluid flows through the tube in the radiator tank, the heat is removed by the coolant flowing around the outside of the tube. Youll learn more about the operation of the transmission cooler in a later study unit. For now, just keep in mind that many radiators perform this function.
FIGURE 15Figure 15A shows the location of the petcock on the radiator, and Figure 15B shows a close-up view of the petcock after it has been removed from the radiator.
FIGURE 16Metal lines attached to the radiator tanks connect a vehicles radiator to its transmission.
Radiators are designed in two different styles. In one style, the coolant flows from side to side; in the other style, the coolant flows from top to bottom. A radiator in which the coolant flows from side to side is called a cross-flow radiator. A radiator in which the coolant flows from top to bottom is called a top-flow radiator. These two types of radiators are shown in Figure 17.
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FIGURE 17A cross-flow radiator is shown in Figure 17A, and a top-flow radiator is shown in Figure 17B.
The flow of coolant through a cross-flow radiator system is shown in Figure 18A. In a cross-flow radiator, the radiator tanks are mounted on each side of the radiator core, and the small tubes in the core run from side to side. The coolant enters the radiator through one of the side tanks, then flows across the radiator core to the tank on the other side. This type of radiator is used in most modern cars. Because the radiator tanks are mounted to each side, the overall height of the radiator is kept low. This allows the radiator to fit easily in smaller vehicles where space is somewhat limited. Top-flow radiators are mainly seen in older cars and larger trucks. In a top-flow radiator, the radiator tanks are mounted to the very top and bottom of the radiator core. The small tubes that carry the coolant through the radiator core run from top to bottom, rather than from side to side. In a top-flow radiator, the coolant enters through the tank at the top of the radiator core. The coolant then flows downward through the core to the bottom tank, and then out of the radiator and back to the engine. The flow of coolant through a top-flow radiator system is shown in Figure 18B. Since the radiator core must receive a steady flow of air to work properly, a radiator is almost always mounted at the very front of the vehicle. This allows air to be easily directed through the radiator. In some vehicles, the airflow enters through the grille opening. The grille is usually covered with a decorative screen that prevents foreign objects
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from flying into its opening. If foreign objects or debris were to enter the opening, they could damage the radiator core. In other vehicles, air is directed into the radiator from below the front of the car. A special air deflector called a front air dam or a spoiler catches the air and directs it up into the radiator core.
FIGURE 18The flow of coolant through a cross-flow radiator is shown in Figure 18A, and the flow of coolant through a top-flow radiator is shown in Figure 18B.
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No matter how air is brought into the radiator, once it gets there, the air flows through the core, removing heat from the coolant along the way. The air then leaves the radiator core, flows through the area where the engine is mounted, and then flows back outside the vehicle. All radiators operate similarly. However, the height, width, and core thickness of a radiator depend on the model of the car. Different radiators may also use different mounting brackets and hose connections. Because of these differences, the radiator from one vehicle cant usually be used in another vehicle. If a radiator needs to be replaced, it must be replaced with a radiator thats designed especially for that vehicle model.
The Radiator Pressure Cap

As you learned earlier in this study unit, one of the tanks on a radiator has a filler neck where coolant can be added. This is the also where the radiators pressure cap is attached. The radiator pressure cap is used to control the amount of pressure thats generated in the cooling system. The cap prevents coolant from escaping out of the radiator as long as the pressure stays below a specified safe level. When an engine is cold, theres no pressure in the cooling system. However, when the engine is started and begins to warm up, the coolant in the system expands. Since an automotive cooling system is a closed system, the expansion of the coolant causes the pressure in the system to rise. This increase in pressure isnt a problem. In fact, it actually benefits the system. The higher the pressure in the system, the higher the boiling temperature of the coolant. This means that the engine can operate at a higher temperature without the coolant boiling and turning to a vapor. Although the pressure in the cooling system is useful, too much can damage the system. If the pressure becomes excessive, the cooling system components may not be able to withstand the pressure. Usually, levels between 16 and 20 psi are considered excessive. Thus, a cooling system must have a way to control this pressure. The component that performs this function is the radiator pressure cap. The pressure cap is usually mounted to a radiator tank as shown in Figure 19. A radiator pressure cap operates as a relief valve for the cooling system. The cap seals the radiator filler neck and prevents any coolant from leaking out, as long as the pressure is below the pressure rating of the cap. The exact rating of the pressure cap varies from vehicle to vehicle. However, most are rated to handle a maximum pressure of between 14 and 18 psi. Once the system pressure rises above the cap's pressure rating, a valve in the cap opens and allows some of the coolant to leave the radiator. The release of coolant causes the pressure in the system to immediately drop. Once the pressure in the system
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drops below the caps rating, the valve closes and seals the system again. In Figure 19, note the large round disk and rubber gasket at the bottom of the cap. Together, this disk and gasket are called the blow-off valve. The blow-off valve seals against the filler neck and prevents coolant from leaking out of the radiator. The metal disk is held in place by a heavy spring. The strength of this spring determines the caps rating. The stronger the spring, the more pressure is required to overcome the spring pressure and move the metal disk up off the filler neck. A cutaway view of the components of a radiator pressure cap can be seen in Figure 20.
FIGURE 19The radiator cap is mounted to the radiator tank as shown here.
FIGURE 20This illustration shows a close-up view of the parts of a radiator pressure cap.
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As an engine heats up, the coolant begins to expand and push directly against the metal disk and gasket on the cap. Once the pressure in the system becomes excessive, the coolant pushes hard enough on the cap to overcome the spring and push the disk up off the filler neck. Once the disk is pushed up, coolant can leak around the outside of the disk and out of the radiator. In most vehicles, the coolant thats allowed to overflow the radiator enters a tube called an overflow tube, as shown in Figure 21A. The overflow tube leads to a storage tank called the coolant recovery tank. As some of the coolant leaves the system, the pressure inside the cooling system drops. Once the pressure drops below the rating of the cap, the spring in the cap forces the disk and gasket back down against the filler neck, thus sealing the cooling system once again. When the engine cools down and the coolant pressure is reduced, a vacuum pressure is produced in the system. This vacuum pressure causes the small vacuum valve in the center of the disk to open, allowing some coolant to return to the system as shown in Figure 21B.
FIGURE 21The operation of a radiator pressure cap is shown here. In Figure 21A, rising pressure in the cooling system causes the blow-off valve to open and release coolant into the overflow tube. In Figure 21B, the pressure in the system has lowered, and the vacuum pressure created in the system causes the vacuum valve to open. When the vacuum valve opens, some coolant returns to the system through the overflow tube.
The Coolant Recovery System

As youve learned, whenever the pressure inside the cooling system rises higher than the rating of the pressure cap, the cap releases some coolant from the system. When the pressure cap valve opens, the coolant flows around the flat disk and rubber gasket and flows out through the overflow tube. Years ago, the coolant that flowed out of the overflow tube was simply allowed to drip onto the ground. In these older vehicles, the overflow tube would lead to the bottom of the car, and the excess coolant would simply drain out onto the highway.
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Although this method was used for many years, it had several disadvantages. First, the coolant draining onto the ground was bad for the environment. Second, each time the pressure cap valve opened, coolant would be permanently lost, so the system would require frequent refilling. To solve these problems, the coolant recovery system was developed. The coolant recovery system catches excess coolant that leaves the cooling system, and then returns it to the system after the engine has cooled and the pressure has lowered. A coolant recovery system can be found in almost every vehicle produced today. The coolant recovery system contains two basic parts: the vacuum valve in the radiator cap and a plastic recovery tank. A typical coolant recovery system is shown in Figure 22. The recovery tank catches the coolant that overflows the system when the radiator caps blow-off valve opens. The vacuum valve in the center of the radiator cap disk allows coolant back into the system when the pressure drops.
FIGURE 22A typical coolant recovery system is shown here.
In the recovery system shown in this figure, the recovery tank is mounted right next to the radiator. However, this isnt always the case. The tank may be mounted almost anywhere in a vehicles engine compartment, and is usually connected to the radiator overflow tube by a rubber hose. Note that the overflow tube that enters the recovery tank from the radiator extends to almost the very bottom of the tank. This ensures that the end of the tube is always under the level of the coolant, so that no air can get into the tube or the cooling system. The coolant recovery tank is usually about one-quarter full when the engine is cold. This prevents air from entering the system, and provides extra coolant to make up for any that evaporates or leaks out over time.
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Most recovery tanks have markings on them that indicate the coolant level. As you can see, this tank contains the marking COLD. This means that when the engine is cold, the coolant level in the tank should be at that level. Because an engine may not always be cool when youre checking the coolant level, many recovery tanks also have a HOT marking. This indicates the approximate coolant level in the tank when the engine is hot. During routine maintenance, the coolant level can easily be checked by using the marks on the coolant recovery tank. Once an engine is started, the coolant expands and raises the pressure in the cooling system. When the pressure becomes excessive, the pressure cap opens and allows some of the coolant to overflow out of the radiator and into the coolant recovery tank. Because the coolant flows into the recovery tank, its not lost, and the coolant can be used again in the engine. Later, when the engine cools down, the coolant stops expanding and begins to return to its normalsmallervolume. As the coolant becomes smaller in volume, the pressure in the system decreases, and a vacuum develops in the system. The vacuum suction pulls open the small valve in the center of the radiator cap disk, and draws coolant out of the recovery tank and back into the cooling system. The valve in the radiator cap is a one-way check valve. That is, the valve allows coolant to flow into the system, but not out of the system. The only way that coolant can flow out of the system is through the blow-off valve in the pressure cap. Thus, the coolant recovery system keeps the cooling system completely full of coolant, so the coolant level doesnt need to be checked as often.
Radiator Fans
As you learned, the radiator depends on air flowing through its core to remove heat from the coolant. Sometimes, an engine needs help blowing air through the radiator core, so a fan is usually mounted near the radiator core to help blow air through the radiator. The air blown by the fan helps to remove heat from the coolant thats flowing inside the core. As the blades rotate, the air is caught by the blades and is moved in one direction. On most automobiles, the cooling fan is mounted behind the radiator, and the fan blades pull air through the radiator core. This arrangement is more efficient than to have the fan blow air on the front of the radiator. A typical radiator fan assembly is shown in Figure 23.
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from the Honda Motor Co., Inc.)
FIGURE 23A typical radiator fan assembly is shown here. (Printed with permission
To ensure that all of the air blown by the fan actually passes through the radiator core, most fans are covered by a fan shroud. The shroud surrounds the outside of the fan and keeps any outside air away from the fan. A typical fan shroud is made of thin metal or plastic. The action of the fan shroud can be seen in Figure 24. Note how the shroud completely surrounds the fan, so that any air thats moved by the fan must move through the radiator core. Automotive radiator fans can be driven in two different ways. The fan may be operated by a small electric motor, or the fan may be driven by a rubber belt that connects it to a pulley on the end of the crankshaft. Lets take a look at each of these types of fans.
FIGURE 24A fan shroud is used to allow the fan to draw more air through the radiator.
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Electric Fans
Most newer automobiles contain electric radiator fan systems. In this type of system, the fan is operated by a small electric motor thats attached to the center of the fan blades. The fans electric motor is operated by the cars battery. When power from the battery is applied to the fan motor, the motor rotates the fan blades and pulls air through the radiator core. You may remember that an engine operates best within a specific operating temperature range, usually between 180 and 210 degrees Fahrenheit. Because the engine isnt efficient if its operated below this temperature, the radiator fan cant be allowed to operate all the time. If the fan ran continually, the engine might become too cold, especially in cold weather. However, when the engine temperature begins to rise, the fan should begin to operate. For these reasons, a cooling system needs a way to turn the radiator fan on and off as its needed. This function is usually performed by a coolant temperature switch. A coolant temperature switch is temperature-controlled, so the switch is mounted somewhere in the cooling system where its directly exposed to the coolant. The switch could be mounted almost anywhere in the system. However, in most cases, the switch is mounted in one of the radiator tanks, or near the water outlet, where the hose attaches to carry water from the engine to the radiator. Figure 25 shows a coolant temperature switch mounted in a radiator tank.
FIGURE 25In this figure, you can see the coolant temperature switch mounted in one of the radiator tanks.
The coolant temperature switch is designed to measure the temperature of the coolant and turn on the radiator fan whenever the coolant rises above a certain set temperature. When the coolant temperature falls below the set limit, the switch turns the fan off. Thus, the coolant temperature switch operates the fan only when its needed.
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On some engines, the coolant temperature switch operates even after the vehicle has been turned off. In such a vehicle, if the coolant is hot when the engine is turned off, the coolant switch keeps the radiator fan running until the coolant temperature decreases.
Belt-Driven Fans
Although most modern cars use electric fans, some vehicles still use belt-driven fans. In a belt-driven radiator fan system, the fan blade is usually attached to the end of the water pump shaft and is driven by the same belt that drives the water pump. A typical belt-driven fan is shown in Figure 26. Note how the fan blade is mounted to the end of the water pump shaft, and is driven by a rubber fan belt. The fan belt is connected to the pulley on the crankshaft.
FIGURE 26A typical beltdriven fan is shown here.
A belt-driven fan uses a radiator shroud much like the shroud on an electric fan. However, the shrouds used on belt-driven fans are usually slightly larger than the shrouds used with electric fans. This allows the shroud to effectively close the space between the radiator and the blade on the front of the engine. An electric fan is usually attached directly against the radiator core; therefore, theres very little space between the fan and the radiator. As you learned, the radiator fan isnt always needed. An electric fan is turned on and off by a temperature control switch. However, a beltdriven fan turns on whenever the engine is running. Therefore, a beltdriven fan usually uses a special hub called a fan clutch to control the operation of the fan. The fan blades attach to this hub. The purpose of the hub is to engage and disengage the fan blades from the drive belt
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so that the fan blades operates only when needed. If a belt-driven fan ran continuously, the engine would take a long time to become warm, especially in cold weather. The fan clutch design uses a fluid system that allows the fan blades to spin freely when the engine is cold. Then, when warm air from the radiator passes over the clutch hub, the hub warms and engages the fan blades. When the fan blades are engaged, they rotate along with the crankshaft. Then, when the air temperature cools down, the fan blades are disconnected and allowed to rotate freely. Its easy to determine if an engine uses this type of fan. Since the fan spins freely when the engine is cold, you can simply try to turn the fan blades by hand. (Naturally, try this only when the engine is shut off and completely cooled). If the fan blades rotate easily, then the engine most likely uses a fan clutch. Figure 27A shows a cutaway side view of a fan clutch, and Figure 27B shows an end view of the fan clutch.
FIGURE 27Figure 27A shows a cutaway side view of a fan clutch, and Figure 27B shows an end view of the fan clutch.
(A)
(B)
Another type of belt-driven fan called a flex fan uses specially designed, flexible metal blades (Figure 28). When the fan turns slowly, such as when the vehicle is still, the fan spins and pulls air through the radiator. However, once the vehicle is moving and the engine speed increases, the thin, flexible fan blades flatten out and stop pulling as much air through the radiator. Even though the fan is still being driven by the belt, when the fan blades flatten out, the fan wont pull any air through the radiator. When the engine slows down again, the fan blades bend back into shape and once again pull air through the radiator core. A belt-driven fan works well, but it can be used only when the engine is mounted in-line with the center of the vehicle. When the engine is mounted this way, the front of the engine is located directly behind the
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radiator. In contrast, a transverse-mounted engine is mounted from side to side in a vehicle. The front of a transverse-mounted engine faces one side of the vehicle, far away from the radiator. Therefore, when a vehicle contains a transverse-mounted engine, it must use an electric radiator fan.
FIGURE 28When a flex fan turns slowly, the fan spins and pulls air through the radiator. The fan blades are angled at this time, as shown in Figure 28A. However, once the vehicle is moving down the road and the engine speed increases, the thin, flexible fan blades flatten out, as shown in Figure 28B, and stop pulling as much air though the radiator.
Coolant System Hoses

On a typical vehicle, there are usually four major coolant system hosestwo radiator hoses and two heater hoses. Radiator hoses connect the engine to the radiator. Heater hoses carry coolant to and from the heater core inside the passenger compartment. Radiator hoses are larger in diameter than heater hoses. Radiator hoses usually measure between 1 1 2 and 2 1 2 inches in diameter, while heater hoses are usually 1 5 3 2-, 8-, or 4-inch in diameter. Figure 29 shows an exploded view of the hose connections in a typical cooling system. Radiator hoses carry coolant between the engine and the radiator. As you learned earlier, most systems contain two separate radiator hosesan upper radiator hose and a lower radiator hose. The upper hose carries coolant from the engine to the radiator. In most engines, the upper hose is attached at the top of the engine and the top of the radiator. The lower hose carries coolant from the radiator back to the engine. In most engines, the lower hose is attached to the bottom of the radiator and the bottom of the engine. These two hoses and their connections are illustrated in Figure 30.
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Honda Motor Co., Inc. )
FIGURE 29The hose connections for a typical cooling system are shown here.
(Printed with permission from
Generally, radiator hoses are designed to fit properly on the specific engine installation. The hoses must be able to withstand the heat of the coolant and the corrosive action of its chemical additives. However, the hoses must also be flexible enough to allow the engine to move without breaking their seals, and to prevent the transfer of significant engine motion to the radiator.
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FIGURE 30The upper hose carries coolant from the engine to the radiator, and the lower hose carries coolant from the radiator back to the engine. In most engines, the two hoses are attached as shown here.
An engine may also contain a bypass hose that allows the coolant to circulate inside the engine until the thermostat opens. This protects the engine parts that heat rapidly, such as the exhaust valves, from being damaged. On some engines, the bypass is built into the engine, or the heater core is used as a bypass. Cooling-system hoses are designed to slip over their connections on the engine block or radiator, and are then held with special clamps called hose clamps. The most popular types of hose clamps are illustrated in Figure 31.
FIGURE 31Coolant system hoses are held in place by special clamps called hose clamps. The most popular types of hose clamps are illustrated here.
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The Thermostat
Earlier in this study unit, you learned that an engine wont operate properly if its too cold. If coolant began to circulate through a radiator as soon as an engine was turned on, it would take a long time for the engine to become warm. In very cold climates, the engine might not even reach its operating temperature. For this reason, the cooling system uses a thermostat to help the engine warm up faster and to prevent the engine temperature from becoming too cold. The thermostat is used to block the flow of coolant to the radiator when the engine is cold, which allows the engine to reach its proper operating temperature faster. An external cutaway view of a typical thermostat is shown in Figure 32. The thermostat contains a pellet of heat-sensitive material, such as wax, sealed in a chamber with a piston at one end of the chamber. The piston connects to a valve or flap that closes the thermostat.
FIGURE 32An external cutaway view of a typical thermostat is shown here.
A thermostat is located at the cooling-system outlet that leads to the radiator, where the warm coolant can pass under it and transfer heat to it. When the engine is cold, the wax is contracted and holds the piston in the closed position, as shown in Figure 33A. As the engine warms up, the coolant temperature causes the wax to expand and push on the piston. The piston opens the valve, allowing the coolant to leave the engine and circulate through the radiator, as shown in Figure 33B. Most thermostats are designed to open when the coolant temperature reaches 180 degrees, but some wont open until the coolant temperature rises to 205 degrees. During very cold weather, the thermostat may not open fully, even if the engine is run for a long time. A thermostat has no effect on engine temperature once the engine heats up past the thermostat operating temperature.
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When the engine reaches its normal operating temperature, the thermostat opens and coolant is allowed to pass, as shown in Figure 33B.
FIGURE 33When an engine is cold, the thermostat blocks the flow of coolant, as shown in Figure 33A.
The location of the thermostat varies. However, in most cases, the thermostat is located at the top front of the engine, usually directly under the location where the upper radiator hose connects to the engine. This connection point is often called the thermostat housing. The thermostat housing is usually held in place with retaining bolts, and a gasket is used to seal the housing and prevent any coolant leakage. A typical thermostat housing is shown in Figure 34.
FIGURE 34A typical thermostat housing assembly is shown here.
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Temperature Gages
In order to prevent engine damage, a driver must be notified immediately if an engine is overheating. For this reason, every vehicle contains some sort of temperature indicator on its dashboard or instrument panel. The temperature indicator is designed to sense when the engine temperature is rising too high and send the temperature information to a display device on the vehicles instrument panel. There are two basic types of temperature indicators: the temperature gage and the warning light. All modern temperature indicators are electric. An electric temperature gage has an internal circuit that provides a gage reading based on the amount of current that flows through it. When the ignition is on, electric current flows through the gage to a temperature sensor thats installed in the engine block. The end of the sensor extends directly into a coolant passage. The location of a coolant temperature sensor is shown in Figure 35.
FIGURE 35The location of a coolant temperature sensor is shown here. (Courtesy of
Chrysler Corporation)
In a typical indicator circuit, the sensor contains a temperaturesensitive material that conducts electricity in direct proportion to its temperature. As the coolant temperature rises, the sensor allows more current to flow. Since the current flows through the gage, any increase in current flow causes the gage reading to increase. When the engine temperature decreases, the current flow and the gage reading also decrease. A different type of temperature indicator uses a sensor material that increases electrical resistance with temperature. In this type of system, if the engine temperature increases, less current flows. The gage then reads the decrease in current flow as a temperature increase.
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Warning lights, rather than temperature gages, are used in most modern vehicles. The warning light is installed in the instrument panel. If the engine begins to overheat, the warning light simply lights up. A warning light system contains a light bulb thats connected in series with a mechanical temperature sensor (Figure 36). Current can flow through the light only when the circuit is grounded. The sensor is a bimetallic spring thats set to move when a preset temperature is reached. If the engine starts to overheat, the coolant temperature reaches the preset sensor temperature. This causes the bimetallic spring to move, and the spring then contacts and grounds the electric connector from the light circuit. This completes the electric circuit through the light bulb, causing it to light up. The warning-light bulb almost always contains a red lens so that the light cant be missed by the driver.
FIGURE 36A warning-light system contains a light bulb thats connected in series with a mechanical temperature sensor, as shown here. Note how the temperature sensor is mounted so its in direct contact with the coolant.
Most modern vehicles contain warning lights because the lights are difficult to overlook or ignore. The average driver often forgets to check gages, or may even be unaware of how to interpret the gage readings. For this reason, the simple warning light is the quickest way to warn the driver that something is wrong in the cooling system.
A Review of the Flow of Coolant

So far in this study unit, youve learned about the various components of the cooling system and how these components work together to keep an engine cool. To be sure that you completely understand this system, lets review the flow of coolant in some real engine examples. A typical liquid-cooling system for a V-type engine with a cross-flow radiator is shown in Figure 37. The cooling system for an in-line engine with a top-flow radiator is shown in Figure 38.
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with permission of Madza North American Operations)
FIGURE 37A typical liquid-cooling system for a V-type engine is shown here. The arrows indicate the direction of the flow of coolant throughout the system. Note that this system has a cross-flow radiator. (Used
When the engine is cold, the thermostat is closed to prevent the flow of coolant to the radiator. Therefore, the water pump simply circulates the coolant within the engine block. Since the coolant cant flow past the thermostat, it instead flows through a small passage called a bypass and into the water pump. The bypass may be a separate passage in the engine block, or it may be a small rubber hose thats connected from the top of the engine to the water pump. The bypass allows the coolant to circulate inside the engine, even though the thermostat is closed.
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Since the thermostat is closed at this point, the engine quickly reaches its normal operating temperature when its turned on. Once the engine reaches its operating temperature, the thermostat opens and the coolant flows through the radiator. In the radiator, the coolant is cooled before it reenters the engine. The coolant flow shown in Figure 38 is typical of that in most modern engines. The coolant enters the engine from the bottom of the radiator, and then passes through the water pump and into the lower part of the water jacket in the engine block. Next, the coolant flows up through the water jacket and cylinder head, and exits out of the top of the engine. The coolant then passes by the thermostat and reenters the radiator. However, note that the coolant reenters at the top of the radiator rather than at the bottom. Finally, the coolant flows through the radiator core to the bottom of the radiator, where it leaves the radiator and reenters the engine to remove more heat.
FIGURE 38The cooling system for an in-line engine is shown here. Note that this system uses a top-flow radiator.
The coolant flow pattern weve just described is typical in most modern engines. However, some engines contain reverse-flow cooling systems in which the coolant flows in the opposite direction. In a reverse-flow cooling system, the coolant enters the top of the engine and exits at the
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bottom of the water jacket. Reverse-flow cooling systems are used by only a few vehicle manufacturers. The operation of the reverse-flow system is the same as that of the other system we discussedthe only difference is the direction in which that the coolant flows.
Air-Cooling Systems
So far, youve learned about liquid-cooling systems. However, liquid cooling isnt the only type of system thats used to keep automotive engines cool. Over the years, a few automobiles have contained aircooling systems. Air-cooling systems use no liquid coolant at all. Instead, only a flow of air across the outside of the engine is used for cooling. Air-cooling systems are simple, both in construction and in operation. The engine parts that get the hottest are the cylinders and the cylinder heads, so the air-cooling system uses a fan to force air past these components. Heat is then transferred from the engine to the forced air by convection. Figure 39 shows an illustration of the operation of an aircooling system.
FIGURE 39An air-cooled engine uses a fan to force air past the outside of the cylinders and the cylinder heads. The heat from the engine is transferred by convection to the air.
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The air-cooled engine has several design features that distinguish it from the liquid-cooled engine.
The cylinders and cylinder heads are finned to increase their
overall surface area, which allows more surface to be cooled by the air (Figure 40). gines crankshaft.
The fan, sometimes called a blower, is belt-driven from the en-
The engine and fan are usually shrouded by sheet metal so that
more air can be directed over the hottest parts of the engine. heat from the oil directly into the air stream.
Most air-cooled engines have an extra oil cooler, which transfers
FIGURE 40In this cutaway view of an air-cooled Vtype engine, you can clearly see the fins on the surfaces of the cylinders.
The air-cooled engine has several advantages over the liquid-cooled engine. A typical air-cooled engine will run about 20 degrees Fahrenheit hotter than an equivalent liquid-cooled engine. This increased operating temperature improves gas mileage and the operation of the emission control system. An air-cooled engine has fewer cooling-system parts and is simpler to troubleshoot and repair. Since an air-cooled engine relies on only the air flowing over the engine, virtually no maintenance is need. And most importantly, theres no coolant to freeze or boil, and no chance of coolant leaks. In spite of these advantages, air-cooled engines are seldom used on modern cars. In the past, popular cars that used air-cooled engines were the Volkswagen Beetle and the Chevrolet Corvair. At present, only Porsche continues to use air-cooled engines in its cars. Air-cooled engines are seldom used because the heating is very poor in the passenger compartment of an automobile. In addition, air-cooled engines are noisier and develop more oil leaks because of their high operating temperatures.
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Power Check 2
Questions 17: Indicate whether the following statements are True or False. _____ 1. In most engines, the water pump is mounted to the engines front cover and is driven by the crankshaft. _____ 2. A V-type engine usually contains one block drain plug, while an in-line engine usually contains two block drain plugs. _____ 3. Like an oil pump, a water pump pressurizes the coolant and circulates it through the various passages in the cooling system. _____ 4. A serpentine belt is much wider, thinner, and longer than a typical V-belt. _____ 5. A typical vehicle usually contains four radiator hoses and two heater hoses. _____ 6. When an engine reaches its proper operating temperature, the thermostat closes and blocks the flow of coolant out of the engine. _____ 7. One V-type belt can drive several engine accessories at the same time. 8. In a serpentine drive belt system, the component that holds the belt at its proper tension at all times is called the _______. 9. The openings at the ends of the machined coolant passages in the engine block are sealed with _______. 10. The opening at the top of a radiator tank that holds the radiators pressure cap is called the _______. 11. A radiator in which the coolant flows from side to side is called a cross-flow radiator, and a radiator in which the coolant flows from top to bottom is called a _______ radiator. 12. The valve in the radiator pressure cap that opens when the pressure in the system becomes too high is called the _______.
(Continued)
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Power Check 2
13. In a vehicle that uses an electric radiator fan, the fan is operated by a small electric motor that gets its power from the cars _______. 14. Radiator and heater hoses are designed to slip over their connections, and then are held with _______. 15. The two basic types of temperature indicators are the temperature gage and the _______. 16. The coolant thats released by the pressure cap flows through an overflow tube to the _______. 17. In many coolant recovery systems, the recovery tank is mounted right next to the _______. 18. In a typical cooling system, the upper radiator hose carries the coolant from the engine to the radiator, and the _______ radiator hose carries coolant from the radiator back to the engine. 19. A small valve called a _______ is located at the bottom of a radiator tank and is used to drain the coolant from the radiator for servicing. Check your answers with those on page 99.
COOLING-SYSTEM MAINTENANCE
As you know, the purpose of the cooling system is to keep the engines temperature within a specific range. However, in order to do this, the cooling system must be filled with coolant thats the proper mixture of antifreeze and water. Therefore, to ensure that the cooling system operates properly, you should check the coolant level periodically, usually once a month. You should also check the coolant level any time you suspect that theres a problem in the cooling system.
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Checking the Coolant Level

A proper coolant level is necessary to keep an engine at its proper operating temperature. The cooling system performs best when its completely filled with coolant. Its also very important to get all of the air out of the system whenever you add coolant. If the coolant level is too low, or if air gets into the system, the cooling system wont work efficiently. The air in the system may cause some coolant to be forced out each time the engine is shut off. Remember that a cooling system is pressurized when an engine becomes warm. Since the coolant is a liquid, and liquids can't be compressed, the pressure affects only the boiling point of the coolant. However, air can be compressed. If the cooling system has air in it, the air tends to form a pocket at the highest point in the system. Then, as the system is pressurized, this air is compressed, and the overall cooling-system pressure is less than normal. This lowered pressure causes the boiling point of the coolant to be lowered. When the engine is shut off, the air pocket expands, much like a large spring. As the air expands, it takes up more space in the system, thereby increasing the system pressure. When the pressure increases to a certain point, the pressure cap forces some coolant out into the overflow tube and into the coolant recovery tank to relieve the pressure. However, because of the air in the system, the coolant wont be drawn back into the radiator once the engine cools down. You learned in the last section that most modern engines use coolant recovery systems. If an engine has a coolant recovery system, its relatively easy to check the coolant level. First, locate the plastic coolant recovery container. These containers are usually semitransparentthat is, you can see through the side of the container to check the level of the coolant inside. To check the level, simply look at the side of the container to see the coolant level. Then, match this level to the markings on the side of the recovery tank. Most recovery tanks have two markings. One marking indicates the proper coolant level when the engine is hot, and the other marking indicates the proper level when the engine is cold. If the coolant level is below the proper marking on the side of the tank, simply remove the recovery tank lid and add some more coolant. The level doesnt have to match the marking on the tank precisely, but it should be close. The coolant that you add to the system should be a 50-50 mixture of antifreeze. If the engine is hot, fill the tank to the hot mark. If the engine is just slightly warm, fill the tank to a level about halfway between the two marks.
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Note: Never fill a coolant recovery tank to the very top, particularly when an engine is cold. If the recovery tank is filled to the top, the coolant thats released from the hot engine has nowhere to go. This causes the recovery tank to overflow, and coolant leaks out of the top of the tank. Although this probably wont harm the engine, it could alarm the driver, who may believe that the system has a leak. To check the coolant level on an older engine that doesnt have a coolant recovery system, remove the radiator cap and check the coolant level directly at the radiator. You can also do this with a vehicle that has a coolant recovery system, if you suspect that the vehicle is low on coolant or has a leak. Either of these conditions may prevent coolant from being drawn back into the system from the recovery tank. Therefore, even if the recovery tank contains coolant, it doesn't always mean that the rest of the system is full. Before you remove a radiator cap to check the coolant level directly at the radiator, you must follow several safety precautions. Remember that the coolant in a vehicle is often very hotover 200 degrees Fahrenheitat times. In addition, the coolant is under pressure. Therefore, you must not remove a radiator cap until the engine and cooling system have cooled completely. If you attempt to remove the radiator cap from a vehicle when it's hot, the pressurized coolant will spray out all over your hand and arm when the cap is released. The very hot coolant can severely burn your skin. Remember that the pressure in the system helps raise the boiling point of the coolant. When the coolant is under pressure, the boiling point is high enough to keep it from boiling. However, as soon as the cap is removed and the pressure is released, the boiling point of the coolant is instantly lowered. Therefore, if an engine is very hot, the coolant will boil quickly when you open the cap and a hot vapor will be forced out of the filler neck. This vapor can burn you severely. To avoid injury, wait until the coolant has cooled completely. When an engine is cold, theres very little, if any, pressure in the cooling system, and any coolant that may leak out will be at air temperature. To remove the radiator cap, follow these steps: Step 1: Make sure that the engine is cold and that you observe all safety precautions. Wear safety glasses and protective clothing. Place a thick rag over the radiator cap, just in case some pressure remains in the system. The rag will catch any coolant that may spill out when the cap is loosened.
Step 2:
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Step 3:
Turn the radiator cap one-quarter turn counterclockwise, or until it stops. When you turn the cap one-quarter turn, the pressure in the system is released, but the cap wont come all the way off. The cap is designed this way so that if any pressure remains in the system, coolant is prevented from flowing out around the cap when its loosened. Since the cap is still attached, it deflects the coolant away from your hand. Once the pressure has been released, push in on the cap while you continue to turn it counterclockwise. After about one-half turn, the cap can be lifted off the radiator.
Step 4:
Once the radiator cap is off, you can check the coolant level in the radiator. In a vehicle that uses a coolant recovery system, the radiator should be completely filled to the top with coolant, whether the engine is cold or warm. In a vehicle that doesnt use a coolant recovery system, the radiator should be filled with coolant to the top if the engine is warm. If the engine is cold, pour in coolant to about one inch below the top of the filler neck in a top-flow radiator, and to about three inches below the top of the filler neck in a cross-flow radiator (Figure 41). Remember, if a vehicle doesnt have a coolant recovery system, some space is needed for the coolant to expand when the engine is hot. This is why the radiator in such a vehicle isnt filled to the very top when the engine is cold.
FIGURE 41In a vehicle that doesnt use a coolant recovery system, when the engine is cold, the radiator should be filled with coolant to about one inch below the top of the filler neck in a top-flow radiator, and about three inches below the top of the filler neck in a cross-flow radiator.
In conclusion, its dangerous to remove the radiator cap from a hot engine. If you absolutely must remove the radiator cap from a warm engine, its better to do this while the engine is running. When an engine is shut off, the pressure in the cooling system increases because the coolant stops circulating through the engine. If the engine is running, the pressure in the system is reduced somewhat. Even with the engine
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running, though, this task is dangerous and should be performed only with extreme caution. Observe all safety procedures, and wear gloves to protect your hands from the hot coolant.
Adding Coolant to an Engine

Coolant is usually added to both the radiator and the coolant recovery tank until both levels are correct. When adding coolant to an engine, be sure to use a 50-50 mix of antifreeze and water. Adding plain water to a system dilutes the coolant mixture and reduces its ability to protect the engine against severe temperatures and corrosion. If an engine is warm when youre adding coolant, its a good idea to add the coolant while the vehicle is running. This causes the new coolant to quickly mix in with the coolant thats already in the system. It also prevents the new coolantwhich is relatively coldfrom coming into direct contact with the hot engine components, such as the radiator and engine block. A sudden temperature change could cause these components to crack.
Testing the Coolant

Its very important to check the percentage of antifreeze in a cooling system at least once a year. Even if you live in an area where the temperature never falls below freezing, the antifreeze percentage is still very important for cooling purposes. Antifreeze also contains the corrosion inhibitors that an engine needs. Very old antifreeze wont have any corrosion inhibitors left, and the cooling system is therefore unprotected. This can cause rusting and sludge buildup in the cooling system, which reduces the cooling abilities of the system. Once a cooling system becomes badly rusted, its almost impossible to clean it or restore it to its original condition. Thus, you should test a sample of coolant from a vehicle on a regular basis to make sure that the coolant contains enough antifreeze. A coolant-testing device can be used to draw a sample of coolant out of the system for analysis. All coolant-testing devices work on the same basic principle, which is that antifreeze is heavier and has a higher specific gravity than water. By measuring the specific gravity of a sample of coolant mixture, you can tell how much antifreeze is in the sample and, thus, the amount of protection that the coolant provides to the engine. Some people believe that coolant strength can be estimated by simply looking at the color of a sample. However, this isnt a very accurate method. Antifreeze is usually pale green in color, and therefore the coolant mixture is also green. However, just because the coolant is
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green doesnt mean that it contains enough antifreeze to protect the engine. The color is similar whether it contains a lot of antifreeze or just a little. The only truly accurate way to determine its strength is to use a coolant tester specifically designed for this purpose. The most common type of coolant tester is the hydrometer. Several different types of hydrometers can be used to test antifreeze. One common type of hydrometer is illustrated in Figure 42. This tester consists of a glass tube with a free-floating weighted bulb inside, a hose, and a rubber bulb at the top of the tester.
FIGURE 42A typical hydrometer is illustrated here.
To test a sample of coolant from a cooling system, place the hydrometer hose in the radiator filler neck, squeeze the rubber bulb, and draw a sample of coolant up into the tester. Then, look at the sample in the tube. The weighted bulb floats in the coolant sample. Because antifreeze is heavier than plain water, the bulb will float higher or lower in the tube, depending on the amount of antifreeze the coolant sample contains. The outside of the tube is marked with measurement lines that allow you to see the exact proportion of antifreeze in the coolant. These lines account for differences in engine temperature, since the bulb will float higher in cold coolant than in hot coolant. A more expensive hydrometer may contain a built-in thermometer that allows for automatic temperature compensation.
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Another type of hydrometer contains a plastic needle that floats in the coolant. A sample of coolant is drawn from the engine in the same way we described previously. Then, the amount of protection is read by matching the point on the needle to the scale thats marked on the outside of the tester. A third type of tester thats used to test antifreeze is called a floating-ball tester. In this tester, several small, weighted balls are placed in a glass tube. A sample of the coolant is drawn up into the tester. Once the coolant is in the tester, the tester is held straight up and down, and a number of balls float up into the coolant sample to indicate the protection level of the coolant. You then count the number of balls, and match the number to a chart on the tester to determine the protection level. If a coolant sample test indicates that the coolant mixture doesnt contain enough antifreeze, drain some of the coolant from the vehicle, and then add some straight antifreeze to the cooling system. Then, retest the mixture to be sure the percentage of antifreeze in the coolant is correct.
Changing the Coolant

To keep the cooling system operating at its best, many manufacturers recommend that the coolant in a system be changed at least once a year. To change the coolant, the old coolant needs to be drained from the vehicle. The system is then flushed to clean out the coolant passages, and then refilled with new coolant. Lets begin with how to drain the coolant from a vehicle.
Draining a Cooling System

Before you can begin to drain a cooling system, you need an appropriate container. Most cooling systems hold about two or three gallons of coolant, so the container should be able to hold at least that much. Special containers called drain pans are available at most auto supply stores. These containers are large and relatively flat so they can easily be placed under a vehicle to catch the coolant as it drains out. Drain pans that are designed for this purpose will make your job a little easier; however, just about any type of container will work, as long as its large enough. Once you have a proper container ready, you can drain the system. To drain the system of coolant, follow these steps: Step 1: Make sure you observe all safety precautions. Since antifreeze is harmful if ingested, be sure that any small children or pets are kept away from the work area. Dont allow antifreeze to spill or collect on concrete or paved driveways, and dont leave open containers of antifreeze in your work area.
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Step 2:
Begin with a cold engine thats turned off. Locate the drain petcock on the radiator, and the block drain plugs on the engine block. The radiator petcock is located near the bottom of one of the radiator tanks, and the block drain plugs are located on the side of the engine block. If you have difficulty locating these items, the service manual for the vehicle usually indicates their locations. Place the container under the radiator drain petcock. Open the radiator drain petcock. You can usually turn the petcock by hand; however, if its very tight, you may have to turn it with a pair of pliers. Once the petcock is opened, the coolant will begin to drain out of the radiator and into the drain pan. At this point, keep the radiator cap on. By leaving the cap on, you can test to see that the coolant recovery system is working properly. As the coolant drains out, suction will be created in the system. If the recovery system is working properly, the suction will pull all of the coolant from the recovery tank into the cooling system. This is a good way to drain the old coolant from the recovery tank so that the coolant can be replaced.
Step 3: Step 4:
If the vehicle doesnt have a coolant recovery tank, open the drain petcock and the radiator cap to drain the coolant. As the coolant drains out, be sure that it enters the drain pan. Adjust the position of the pan if necessary to prevent coolant from spilling onto the floor or ground. If any coolant is spilled, clean it up immediately and flush the area with clean water. Step 5: When the coolant recovery tank is empty, remove the radiator pressure cap and allow any remaining coolant to drain out of the radiator petcock. Once all of the coolant has been drained from the radiator, move the drain pan directly under the block drain plugs. To drain the engine block, remove the block drain plug with the right size wrench. When you remove the plug, the coolant will drain out of the engine block. If the coolant doesn't come out when you remove the plug, dirt may be blocking the drain hole. To remove the dirt, place a small screwdriver or other similar tool into the hole to knock the dirt free and open up the passageway. When the obstruction is removed, the coolant should drain from the engine block and into the drain pan.
Step 6:
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Remember that V-type engines usually have two separate block drain plugs, one on each side of the engine. Therefore, in a V-type engine, you need to repeat this step on the other side of the engine.
Flushing a Cooling System

Once the cooling system has been completely drained, you should flush the system to clean out any dirt and debris that may be in the coolant passages. Flushing is a procedure in which water or cleaning solution is forced through the system to flush out dirt and debris. The system can be flushed with a chemical cleaning solvent, or you can reverse-flush the system with water. Lets look at the cleaning-solvent method first. A commercial cleaning solvent, such as Prestone Super Flush, removes rust, grease, and dirt from the coolant passages better than plain water. Cooling-system cleaning products are made by many manufacturers and can be purchased at any automotive-parts store. Most brands come in more than one strength. A regular-strength cleaner can be used in a system thats relatively free of rust and debris, while a heavy-duty cleaner can be used in a neglected system that has a buildup of rust and corrosion. To check the condition of the cooling system, remove the pressure cap and look into the radiator filler neck. When you look into the radiator, you should be able to see some of the small tubes that run through the radiator core. If you can see that a lot of rust and corrosion are blocking the ends of these tubes, then youll know that the cooling system needs a thorough cleaning. Commercial chemical cleaners are relatively easy to use. When using these cleaning products, be sure to carefully follow the directions on the package. The exact cleaning procedure may vary depending on the brand of cleaner you use; however, in most cases, you can follow these steps: Step 1: Step 2: Step 3: Step 4: Step 5: Drain all of the coolant from the system. Close the petcock and install the block drain plugs. Pour the cleaning solvent into the radiator. Fill the rest of the cooling system with plain water. Run the engine until it reaches its normal operating temperature. As the cleaner circulates through the system, it will dissolve the rust and dirt in the system. Stop the engine and allow it to cool.
Step 6:
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Step 7: Step 8: Step 9:
Drain the system again. Close the petcock and reinstall the block drain plugs. Since the cleaning solvent is usually an acidic liquid, the system must now be rinsed with clean water to remove any solvent that remains. Fill the system with plain water. Run the engine for about five minutes or so to circulate the water through the system. Stop the engine and allow it to cool. Open the radiator petcock and block drain plugs, and drain the water from the system. Once the water is drained from the system, close the petcock and install the block drain plugs. Refill the system with new coolant.
Step 10:
Step 11: Step 12:
Step 13:
Step 14:
As you can see, cleaning a cooling system with a commercial cleaning product is a relatively easy process. Now, lets look at the reverse-flushing method of cleaning a cooling system. In the reverse-flushing procedure, water is forced through the cooling system with air pressure, in the direction opposite to that of the normal flow of water. This process allows water to get behind and underneath rust deposits that couldnt otherwise be removed. A tool called a flushing gun is used to reverse-flush the system. Flushing guns can be purchased at an automotive-parts store. The flushing gun has two connectionsone for water and one for compressed air. Therefore, you must have a compressed-air source in your shop to use a flushing gun. To reverse-flush a cooling system, follow these steps: Step 1: Step 2: Step 3: Drain the cooling system and disconnect the radiator hoses at the engine. Install a suitable flushing gun in the radiators lower hose connection. Fill the radiator with clean water and turn on the air in short blasts, as shown in Figure 43. The internal radiator pressure must not exceed 20 psi. A higher pressure than 20 psi could blow out the soldered radiator seams.
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FIGURE 43In this illustration, a radiator is being cleaned by reverse-flushing with water and air pressure.
Step 4:
Continue this procedure until the water from the radiator runs clear.
When you reverse-flush a cooling system, you should also reverseflush the engine block to remove any rust deposits it may contain. The following is a typical procedure for reverse-flushing an engine block. Step 1: Step 2: Step 3: Step 4: Step 5: Drain the radiator and disconnect the hoses at the radiator. Remove the thermostat housing and the thermostat from the engine block, and then reinstall the thermostat housing. Attach a suitable flushing gun to the thermostat housing hose connection. Turn on the water and fill the engine block. Turn on the compressed air in short blasts, as shown in Figure 44. Continue this procedure until the water from the engine runs clear.
FIGURE 44The internal passages of the engine block are cleaned by reverse-flushing the block with water and air pressure.
Step 6:
Reinstall the thermostat, making sure to use a new housing gasket.
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Step 7: Step 8:
Reconnect the radiator hoses. Refill the cooling system with new coolant.
Refilling a Cooling System

Once the cooling system has been flushed, you can add new coolant to the system. To refill the system with coolant, slowly pour the coolant into the radiator through the filler neck. Its a good idea to use a funnel to help with this process, as shown in Figure 45. Remember that you need to fill the system with at least a 50-50 mixture of antifreeze and water.
FIGURE 45Using a funnel makes it easier to add coolant to the system.
To make sure youre adding enough antifreeze, check the service manual to determine how much coolant the system holds. For example, if the system holds eight quarts of coolant, then you know that you should add at least four quarts of antifreeze and four quarts of plain water. This method works well if you know how much coolant the system holds. If youre not sure how much coolant the system holds, simply mix the coolant and water together before you pour it into the cooling system. Use an old coolant container to mix the water and antifreeze. Fill the container with one-half antifreeze and one-half water. When the solution is mixed, pour it into the radiator. Repeat the procedure as necessary until the radiator is full. Note: In this discussion, were assuming that the coolant needed is a 50-50 mix of antifreeze and water, which is usually the case. This mixture provides enough protection for the engine in most climates. However, if you live in a very cold climate, you may need to add more antifreeze to the mixturefor example, a mixture of 70 percent antifreeze and 30 percent water. To determine the proper mixture needed for your car and your local climate, refer to the recommendations in
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the manufacturers service manual. The protection level of the antifreeze should be at least 10 degrees Fahrenheit lower than the lowest expected temperature in your area. Once youve determined the proper amount of antifreeze needed, fill the system. The following is a general procedure that can be used to fill the cooling system in most vehicles. Step 1: With the engine turned off, add coolant to the radiator at the filler neck. Fill the system until the level is about one inch below the filler neck. Be sure to pour the coolant into the engine slowly so that any air in the system is allowed to exit. Start the engine and allow it to idle. Once the engine starts, you may see the coolant level drop slightly. Then, as the engine warms up, the coolant level often rises once again as the coolant warms and expands. At this point, remember that the thermostat is closed. Because the thermostat is closed, the system isnt completely full. Air thats trapped in the engine block cant escape the system until the thermostat opens and the coolant flows through the entire system. Allow the engine to heat upwith the radiator cap left offuntil the thermostat opens. At this time, move the control for the heater in the passenger compartment to the hot or high position. Remember that some of the coolant from the engine is used to provide heat to the passenger compartment. By moving the heater control to the hot position, coolant is allowed to flow through the heating system and remove any air thats trapped in the heater core. When the thermostat opens, the coolant level drops quickly as the air is allowed to escape, and coolant can now fill the engine block. If you look in the filler neck, you'll see that the coolant in the radiator is now flowing, where previously it was standing still. In fact, this is the easiest way to tell when the thermostat opens. Just keep looking into the radiator until you see the coolant begin to circulate. Once the thermostat opens and allows the engine block to completely fill up with coolant, you can add enough coolant to bring the radiator level up to normal. Allow the engine to run for another minute or so with the coolant circulating to be sure that the system is completely full.
Step 2:
Step 3:
Step 4:
Step 5:
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Step 6:
Now that the system is completely full, you can install the radiator pressure cap. Its best to install the cap while the engine is still running. If the engine is shut off with the pressure cap off, coolant can be pushed up out of the radiator, leaving an air space behind. However, if the cap is in place when the engine is shut off, all of the coolant will remain in the system. If the vehicle has a coolant recovery system, mix and add coolant mixture to the recovery tank up to the maximum mark on the tank. Its important to fill this tank with coolant and not just plain water. Plain water freezes in the recovery tank in cold weather, and prevents the system from working properly. When the vehicle has cooled down, remove the radiator cap again and use a coolant tester to test the protection level of the coolant. If you've added the proper amount of antifreeze, the protection should be adequate. However, it doesnt hurt to double-check to make sure that the coolant protection is adequate for the vehicle and the local climate.
Step 7:
Step 8:
You may wonder how all the air gets out of the cooling system when youre filling it. Well, air always tends to move to the highest point in the system. In most vehicles, the highest point of the cooling system is the radiator filler neck. So, once an engine is warm and the coolant begins to circulate, any air in the system tends to move up to the filler neck. Since the radiator cap is off when you fill a cooling system, the air escapes out of the filler neck. This is the reason why the cap is kept off the radiator when you fill the system. In some vehicles, however, the filler neck may not be the highest point in the cooling system. Instead, the highest point in the cooling system may be the top of the engine. This type of engine contains a special air bleed valve at the very top of the water passages, usually in or near the intake manifold (Figure 46). When youre filling this type of engine with coolant, you need to use the air bleed valve to release the air from the system. To remove the air from this type of engine, loosen the air bleed valve about one-half turn. When the air bleed valve is loosened, the air in the coolant system escapes through the valve. Leave the valve open until all the air has left the system, and a steady stream of coolant begins to come out of the valve. At this point, tighten the valve. The system is now completely full of coolant.
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FIGURE 46In some engines, a special air bleed valve is used to remove air from the cooling system when youre filling it with coolant. (Printed with permis-
sion from Honda Motor Co., Inc.)
Handling Antifreeze
As you learned earlier in this study unit, some types of antifreeze are poisonous. For this reason, antifreeze must be disposed of very carefully. In some areas, antifreeze can be dumped into a traditional water drainage system since the water dilutes the antifreeze enough to make it harmless. However, some municipalities have regulations regarding the dumping of antifreeze into drainage systems. This is because used antifreeze may contain small amounts of gasoline and other contaminants that can harm the environment. So, check with your local water company or your local auto parts store to find out how to properly dispose of antifreeze in your area. Many larger automotive repair shops now use special machines to collect old antifreeze and clean it so that it can be recycled. A typical coolant recovery and recycling machine is shown in Figure 47. Coolant recovery and recycling machines are usually quite expensive, so theyre usually used only in larger shops that do a lot of coolant servicing. However, many auto parts stores are now installing these machines so their customers can easily dispose of old antifreeze.
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FIGURE 47A typical coolant recovery and recycling machine is shown here. (Courtesy of
Snap-On Tools Co., Copyright Owner)
Power Check 3
Questions 112: Indicate whether the following statements are True or False. _____ 1. Coolant should be drained from a system when the engine is warm and running. _____ 2. Even if a coolant recovery tank is full, its possible that the cooling system may be low on coolant or have a leak. _____ 3. Water is heavier and has a higher specific gravity than antifreeze. _____ 4. To check the coolant level on an engine that doesnt have a coolant recovery system, remove the radiator cap and check the coolant level directly at the radiator. _____ 5. Never remove a radiator cap from a hot engine until the engine has cooled down completely because the coolant boils rapidly when you open the cap. _____ 6. By measuring the specific gravity of a sample of coolant mixture, you can tell how much antifreeze is in the sample.
(Continued)
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Power Check 3
_____ 7. In order to clean a cooling system with a chemical solvent, you need to drain all of the coolant from the system, and then reinstall the drain petcock and the block drain plugs. _____ 8. To keep the cooling system operating at its best, the coolant should be changed at least once a year. _____ 9. Most cooling systems hold between five and six gallons of coolant. _____10. To drain the coolant from a radiator, you should remove the radiator cap before you open the radiator drain petcock. _____11. V-type engines have two separate block drain plugs, one on each side of the engine block. _____12. If a coolant sample is very green, you can be sure that the cooling system has enough antifreeze in it. 13. When youre reverse-flushing a cooling system, the flushing gun is attached at the radiators _______ hose connection. 14. When a flushing gun is used to clean a cooling system, the internal radiator pressure must not exceed _______ psi. 15. You can check for rust and corrosion in a cooling system by removing the pressure cap and looking into the _______. 16. The most common type of coolant tester is the _______. 17. The percentage of antifreeze in a cooling system should be checked at least once a _______ 18. To drain the coolant from a radiator, you need to open the _______ near the bottom of one of the radiator tanks. 19. In a cooling system, the block drain plugs are located on the side of the _______. 20. To drain the coolant from an engine block, you need to remove the _______. 21. To ensure that a cooling system operates properly, the coolant level should be checked about once a _______. 22. In order to reverse-flush an engine block, you need to remove the _______ and attach the flushing gun to the thermostat housing hose connection. 23. A special machine thats used to collect old antifreeze and clean it so that it can be reused is called a _______. Check your answers with those on page 100.
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INSPECTING, TESTING, AND REPAIRING A COOLING SYSTEM

When you change the coolant, you should inspect other coolingsystem components for damage or wear. These components include the radiator, the pressure cap, the hoses, the water pump, and the belts that drive the water pump. Lets begin with the radiator.
Inspecting a Radiator
The radiator is one of the most important parts of the cooling system. In order for the cooling system to operate properly, the radiator must be able to efficiently remove the heat from the coolant so it can be recirculated through the engine to remove more heat. The following are the two problems that occur most often in a radiator: 1. Leaks that allow coolant to leak out of the system 2. Rust and corrosion that prevent the coolant from flowing through the small tubes in the radiator core A leak may occur in a radiator from a crack in the tank or core, or it may occur from corrosion that has worn through the surface. Either type of problem allows coolant to leak out of the radiator. To check for leaks in a radiator, perform a careful visual inspection of the outside of the radiator. Look for any signs of leaking coolant. Leaky areas often appear wet, or they may show signs of white or greenish residue. Pay special attention to the areas around the hose connections, and to the corners of the radiator core. These are the areas most prone to leaks. When checking for leaks, keep in mind that the hole in the radiator might be very smallso small that it will only leak when the system is under pressure. With these types of leaks, you usually notice white or greenish residue in that area. Even if the area appears to be dry when you inspect it, it may leak as soon as the system is pressurized. A special tool called a pressure tester is used to pressurize the system to check for these leaks. Youll learn more about pressure testers later in this study unit. If the passages in the radiator core are blocked, the flow of coolant through the radiator core will be blocked. If coolant cant pass through these passages easily, the radiator will be less effective in removing the heat from the coolant. Therefore, a complete radiator inspection includes a visual inspection of the core passages.
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To check the condition of the radiator core passages, remove the radiator pressure cap, and then drain a little coolant from the radiator using the radiator petcock. This allows you to see the top of the radiator core. Then, use a flashlight to look into the radiator and inspect the ends of the core passages. Naturally, you wont be able to see all of the passages, but you should be able to judge the condition of the radiator core from the passages that you can see. If the ends of the small passages seem to be open and free of any debris or corrosion, then the radiator is probably in good condition. However, if large deposits of rust and corrosion are blocking the ends of the small passages, the flow of coolant through the radiator is restricted. This may cause the vehicle to overheat, since the core won't be able to remove the heat from the coolant as well as it should. Another way to inspect how well the coolant is flowing in a radiator is to run the vehicle for a few minutes until the thermostat opens, when the vehicle reaches its normal operating temperature. After the thermostat opens, shut the engine off. Then, hold your hand near the radiator core to see how hot the core is. If the core isnt so hot that it will burn your hand, run your hand along its surface. (If the core is very hot, allow it to cool slightly before you touch it.) When youre doing this, be very careful to keep your hands away from the fan. Remember that some vehicles use electric fans that come on even when the vehicle is turned off. As you feel the radiator core, the temperature should stay the same or gradually get cooler from one side to the other. This means that coolant is flowing freely through the radiator. However, if some parts of the radiator core are cold compared to the rest, the passages in the cold area of the core are probably blocked, and no coolant is flowing through them. If you determine that the radiator core passages are blocked, the radiator must be cleaned. To clean the radiator, use either of the flushing methods you learned about earlier in this study unit. If flushing doesnt clean the blocked radiator passages, then the radiator must be removed from the vehicle and replaced, or cleaned by a radiator specialist. Look for a radiator repair shop in your area that repairs radiator leaks, cleans a radiator by dipping it into an acid tank, or replaces the radiator core. Often, its cheaper to have a radiator rebuilt by one of these shops than to replace the radiator. Always compare prices and warranties to determine which is the most cost-effective way to repair the radiator.
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Inspecting Hoses
You now know that a typical automotive cooling system contains several rubber hoses that carry coolant from the engine to the other cooling components, such as the radiator. These hoses are made of rubber, which can deteriorate and crack over time. Therefore, the hoses should be inspected often to be sure they're in good shape. Most manufacturers recommend that the cooling system hoses be replaced once every four years to avoid the possibility of failure. If a hose fails, the resulting coolant leak will cause the engine to overheat rapidly, which can seriously damage the engine. Start by performing a thorough visual inspection of the hoses. The first thing you should look for is swelling and deterioration of the hose material. Swelling around the hose clamp area makes the clamp appear to be buried in the hose. It also causes the end of the hose to curl up, so that it resembles a cup. The material becomes spongy, and small cracks appear on the outer surface. If a hose appears swollen, the same swelling has probably occurred on the inside of the hose, too, which restricts coolant flow. A hose in this condition is very likely to failburstin the near future. If any signs of damage, cracks, or swelling are found, the hose should be replaced. Its much better to change a deteriorated hose than to risk the hose failing while the vehicle is operating. In addition, check the hoses for soft or weak spots. A hose thats beginning to fail or wear out usually begins to soften. The hose softens in spots and then eventually ruptures. Before feeling the hoses for soft spots, make sure that the engine is off and completely cooled. Then, use the tips of your fingersnot your whole handto press the hose at various places. Check along the entire length of each hose for any areas that feel soft. The most common place for a hose to fail is about an inch or two from its ends. A hose is also likely to fail at the areas where it connects to other components. Be sure to check both the upper and lower hoses carefully. Since the upper hose is exposed to the most heat, it's usually the first to show signs of damage. If the lower radiator hose is too soft, the suction created by the water pump as it pulls coolant through the hose can cause the hose to collapse, as shown in Figure 48. If the lower radiator hose collapses, it can block the flow of coolant in the system and cause the engine to overheat. If you feel any soft spots on the hose, the hose should be removed and replaced with a new one. To avoid the possibility of a cooling-system problem, any hose that shows any sign of damage should be replaced immediately.
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FIGURE 48If the lower radiator hose is too soft, the suction created by the water pump as it pulls coolant through the hose can cause the hose to collapse.
Also, when you inspect the hoses, check to make sure that any brackets that support the hoses are in place. Check all of the connections for any signs of leakage. If signs of leakage are present, check the tightness of the hose clamps. Over time, some of the clamp connections may loosen. These clamps need to be tightened to keep the connection completely sealed.
Inspecting the Radiator Pressure Cap

As youve learned, the radiator pressure cap keeps the coolant in the system under pressure when the engine is warm. The cap seals the system so that pressure can build up, and releases the pressure if it becomes excessive. The maximum pressure that the system is allowed is determined by the pressure caps rating. In most vehicles, the pressure cap is rated for about 14 psi. The rating of the pressure cap is marked on the top of the cap itself. To make sure that a pressure cap is sealing properly and relieving cooling-system pressure at the proper time, the cap should be tested periodically. A pressure tester is used to test the condition of a radiator cap. A pressure tester is basically a small air pump. These testers can also be used to test the cooling system for leaks, which youll learn about later in this study unit. Pressure-testing tools are made by most automotive tool companies and can be purchased at auto parts stores and tool suppliers. A pressure tester is designed so that it can be attached to a radiator cap, as shown in Figure 49. To test the condition of a cap, install the cap onto the tester. Then, pump up the pressure of the tester to the caps rated pressure. The pressure-testing tool has a gage on it that displays the amount of pressure thats being produced.
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FIGURE 49Adapters are available that allow the pressure tester to check the condition of the radiator pressure cap. (Courtesy of Chrysler Corporation)
As you pump the pressure to the rated pressure of the cap, observe the gage. If the cap is in good working order, the pressure reading on the gage should rise as you pump the tester. Then, when the pressure reading reaches the caps rated pressure, you should hear the pressure caps valve open and release the excess pressure. After the valve opens, the pressure reading shouldnt rise any higher than the rating of the cap, no matter how much you pump up the tester. For example, suppose youre testing a pressure cap that has a rating of 14 psi. The pressure reading on the gage should rise to 14 psi, and the valve should open. After the valve opens, you shouldnt be able to pump the pressure any higher than 14 psi. If you cant develop any pressure with the tester, or if the pressure reading on the gage rises beyond the rating of the cap, the pressure cap is defective and should be replaced. If the pressure rises to the caps rated level, and the cap opens to release the pressure, then the cap is performing properly. Usually, you wont often see a defective radiator cap. However, that doesnt mean that a cap cant be defective. If you suspect that a cooling system has a problem, its always a good idea to pressure-test the cap, particularly since the pressure test is quite easy to perform.
Inspecting a Water Pump

Water pumps are used on engines to circulate the coolant through the system. The water pump is relatively simple in construction, usually consisting only of a shaft, an impeller, bearings, and a seal. An exploded view of a typical water pump is shown in Figure 50.
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FIGURE 50An exploded view of a typical water pump is shown here.
Because of the simple design of most water pumps, only a few components can wear out and cause problems. The following are the three basic problems that occur with water pumps: 1. The bearings could become worn out or defective. 2. The seal could leak. 3. In rare cases, the impeller can break or become damaged. Over time, the components that are most likely to wear are the pumps bearings and seal. As shown in Figure 50, the water pump impeller is attached to a shaft thats supported by bearings. The bearings allow the pump shaft and impeller to spin freely. The pump shaft is usually driven by a belt that attaches to the crankshaft. Since this belt must be kept tight to prevent slipping, the belt tension can apply a lot of force sideways on these bearings. This sideways force tends to wear out the bearings over time. If the pump bearings are worn, the pump may make a loud whining noise as it operates. The pump shaft will also have too much free play. To check the amount of free play in the pump shaft with the engine off, grasp the end of the water pump shaft where the pulley and drive belt are located. Then, try to move the end of the shaft up and down and from side to side. If you can feel the shaft moving more than 18 inch in any direction, the shaft has too much free play. In this case, the pump bearings are probably worn and the pump should be replaced. Sometimes the seal on a pump becomes worn or damaged. If the bearings wear out, the water pump shaft tends to move from side to side as it rotates, and this in turn causes damage to the seal. If the seal is damaged, coolant is allowed to leak out around the pump housing and shaft.
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Most water pumps are constructed with a special drain hole called a bleed hole that allows any coolant that leaks past the seal to drain out of the pump. By looking at the bleed hole, a technician can see whether or not a pump is leaking. The location of the bleed hole varies from pump to pump. However, the most common location is shown in Figure 51. When inspecting the water pump, pay particular attention to the bleed hole area. If it appears that coolant has been leaking from this hole, then the pump seal is probably faulty, and the pump needs to be replaced.
FIGURE 51The location of the water pump bleed hole is shown here.
The final way a pump can fail is if the impeller becomes damaged. This problem is very rare, and youll almost never see it. However, if you inspect an entire cooling system and cant find any other reason why coolant isnt circulating, check the pump impeller. If you suspect that a water pump impeller is defective, check the impeller. However, the only way to check the condition of the impeller is to remove the pump from the engine and visually inspect the pump. The water pump bearings and shaft are usually pressed into place so that they fit very tightly in the pump housing. This makes disassembling a water pump a difficult task. For these reasons, a faulty water pump is usually replaced rather than repaired. Rebuilding water pumps also requires special tools that are different for each type of engine. Thus, its usually much more expensive to rebuild a pump than it is to buy a new or factory-rebuilt pump. Factory-rebuilt pumps
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are pumps that have been rebuilt by a company that specializes in automotive-parts rebuilding. These companies rebuild water pumps in large numbers. Factory-rebuilt pumps are usually much cheaper than new pumps.
Inspecting a Water Pump Drive Belt

No matter what type of belt is used to drive the water pump, its important to periodically check the condition of the belt to ensure that it wont unexpectedly fail. Drive belts must be checked carefully for damage or wear to prevent breakage. If a belt breaks, it wont drive the water pump at all, which would seriously damage the engine. In addition, the belt tension must be checked to make sure that its tight. In order for the belt to work properly, it must be stretched tightly between the pulleys. Otherwise, the belt will simply slip on the pulleys and fail to turn the water pump shaft.
Checking a Belt for Damage

The most common types of V-belt damage are shown in Figure 52. The first type of damage you should check for is cracking or tearing in the belt surface. If a V-type belt is cracked or torn in any way, the belt is considered damaged and should be replaced. When examining a belt for cracks, carefully check the inner edge of the belt where it contacts the pulleys, since this area is the most likely to crack.
FIGURE 52The most common types of V-belt damage are shown here.
Its normal for a serpentine belt to have some cracks on its inner sides where it comes into contact with the pulley. For this reason, to judge the condition of a serpentine belt, you need to count the number of cracks per inch on the belt, and then compare this number to the manufacturers specification (Figure 53). The belt manufacturer usually provides guide-
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lines that you can use to determine if a belt is excessively cracked. So, if a serpentine belt has more than the manufacturers allowed number of cracks per inch, the belt should be replaced. If the belt contains fewer cracks than the specified limit, the belt is considered safe to use.
FIGURE 53To judge the condition of a serpentine belt, count the number of cracks per inch on the belt, and then compare this number to the manufacturers specification.
Belts must also be checked for fraying. Belts are usually made of rubber that contains reinforcing strands of material molded into them. Therefore, check the belt to see if it has frayed and if strands of material are breaking away from the belt. Fraying is an indication that a belt is becoming weak, so a frayed belt should be replaced as soon as possible. The final belt condition is glazing. When the inner edges of a belt become very smooth and glossy, it has glazed. Glazing occurs when the belt tension is loose and the belt slips on its pulleys. The resulting friction between the pulley and the belt creates a lot of heat that actually melts the inner edges of the belt. Once a belt becomes glazed, it loses its ability to drive a pulley, even if the belt tension is tightened. Thus, glazed belts must be replaced.
Adjusting the Tension of a Belt

In order for the water pump to operate properly, the water pump drive belt must be at the proper tension. If a water pump drive belt is too loose, it may slip in the drive pulleys. A slipping belt overheats and becomes glazed, and eventually, fails to drive the water pump. If this occurs, the coolant isnt circulated through the engine, and the engine quickly overheats. A slipping belt also causes a pulley to wear to such an extent that it wont operate properly, even after a new belt is installed. This is particularly true of accessories that have small pulleys. However, when the belt is at the proper tension, noise is minimized, the service life of the belt is prolonged, and the water pump components are protected.
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You may think that the best solution to this problem is to make the belt as tight as possible, but this also causes problems. A belt thats too tight can place a severe strain on the water pump bearings, causing them to wear out and fail. If the bearings fail, the water pump has to be replaced. For these reasons, the belt tension must be set correctly and the tension checked periodically. In serpentine belt systems, the belt tension is usually maintained by a spring-loaded idler pulley. With this type of pulley, the tension is adjusted automatically and doesnt need to be checked. The same is true in engines in which the water pump is driven by the timing belt. The idler pulley on the timing belt keeps the belt at the proper tension. However, if a vehicle uses V-type belts, the belt tension needs to be checked and adjusted periodically. Over time, the belts tend to stretch slightly, so they need to be tightened. Warning: Remember that the engine must be off when you check the drive belts. A V-type drive belt is installed so that the belt rides in the V-shaped pulley grooves. To adjust the belt tension in this type of system, you must move one of the accessories. If you move the accessory closer to the crankshaft pulley, the belt tension is loosened. If you move the accessory farther away from the crankshaft pulley, the belt tension is tightened. Most of these accessories contain slotted mounting holes where they connect to the engine, so theyre relatively easy to move. A typical V-type drive belt arrangement is shown in Figure 54. Note how this accessory has a mounting bolt at the bottom and a slotted bracket at the top. To adjust the belt tension, loosen the accessory mounting bolts, and move the accessory until the proper belt tension is reached. Then, tighten the bolts to lock the accessory in place. To make it easier to adjust the belt tension, loosen the mounting bolts only enough to allow the accessory to slide in the bracket. Then, use a pry bar to apply pressure on the accessory and tighten the belt. Place a pry bar between the engine and the accessory. When the pry bar is in place, push on the bar to move the accessory and tighten the belt. However, be careful not to pry against any part thats easily damaged. Because damage can occur if a pry bar is used improperly, some manufacturers attach a bracket with a square hole to the part. This way, you can use a socket wrench to apply pressure to the accessory, rather than a pry bar. If an accessory has this type of bracket, simply place a socket wrench into the square hole, and pull on the wrench to adjust the belt.
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FIGURE 54A typical V-type drive belt arrangement is shown here. To tighten a Vtype belt, place a pry bar between the engine and the accessory to apply pressure on the part.
Some manufacturers place a threaded adjustment bolt on the device. Once the mounting bolts are loosened, the belt tension is adjusted by turning the adjustment bolt. The adjustment bolt is turned until the proper belt tension is achieved, and then the mounting bolts are tightened. The proper belt tension is usually listed in the service manual for the vehicle. The way in which the tension is measured depends on the manufacturer. Some manufacturers measure belt tension in the pounds it takes to deflect the belt; others measure the total amount of belt deflection in inches; and still others use both pounds and belt deflection in inches to measure the tension. When the belt is installed, the belt tension is a measurement of the tightness of the belt. The tension is usually determined by looking at the amount of deflection in the area between the pulleys. The deflection is the amount or distance that the belt can be moved up and down. The following are three different methods that can be used to measure the tension of a belt. The gage method. In this method, a special gage like the one shown in Figure 55 is used to measure the tension of a belt. The gage measures the amount of force it takes to move the part of the belt between the pulleys up or down. The measurement obtained with the gage is then compared to the manufacturers specifications. However, because of space limitations in the engine compartments of many front-wheeldrive vehicles, the gage method cant always be used.
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FIGURE 55One way to measure the tension of a belt is to use a belt tension gage, like the one shown here.
The torque equivalent method. In this method, a torque wrench is used to tighten the belt. The adjusting screws on the driven accessory are loosened, and the proper torque is then applied to the accessory. As you apply force, the belt tension becomes tighter. Once the proper amount of force is applied, the mounting screws are tightened before the torque wrench is released. The amount of force that needs to be applied depends on the vehicle. The proper specification is usually listed in the manufacturers service manual. To adjust the belt tension using this method, you need to have a torque wrench and the proper specifications for the particular belt. Not all engines are designed to use this method. The belt deflection method. This is probably the simplest way to measure belt tension, but it does require a ruler. This procedure is shown in Figure 56. Here, the amount of belt deflection is measured with the ruler. The belt tension is adjusted until the amount of deflection is within the specifications given by the manufacturer in the service manual.
FIGURE 56This illustration shows the belt deflection method of measuring belt tension.
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Inspecting a Cooling System for Leaks

The cooling system may have a leak if a vehicle overheats, if you see a puddle of antifreeze underneath it, or if the coolant level is low when you check it. If the level of coolant in the engine gets too low as the result of a leak, the cooling system wont be able to cool the engine properly, and the engine might be damaged. Therefore, its very important to locate and repair a coolant leak as soon as its detected. To locate a coolant leak, start by making a visual check of the entire cooling system. To make it easier to see a leak, clean off the components with a cloth. Be sure to pay close attention to the areas where the hoses connect, and to the area around the radiator core. Sometimes, its relatively easy to locate a coolant leak through a visual check. However, because coolant flows through a lot of different passages and hoses in an engine, there are many possible locations where a leak can develop. If the leak is small, the coolant may leak out of the area only when the cooling system is under pressure. This type of leak is a bit more difficult to locate. Therefore, if the source of a coolant leak isnt obvious, you need to pressurize the system with a pressure tester to help locate the leak. This pressure tester is the same tool thats used to test the radiator pressure cap. To perform a pressure test on a cooling system, remove the radiator cap from the radiator. (Note: Be sure that the engine is cold before you remove the cap, and make sure that the system is full of coolant.) Then, using the adapter that comes with the pressure tester, attach the pressure tester to the filler neck in place of the radiator cap (Figure 57). Once the tester is attached to the filler neck, pump the tester to apply pressure to the system. Watch the pressure gage on the tester. As you pump the tester, the pressure reading on the gage will rise. Be careful not to apply too much pressure to the system. Its possible to damage the radiator if you apply too much pressure with the tester. In most cases, you should pump the system to the rated pressure of the radiator cap, usually about 14 psi. Once that pressure is reached, stop pumping the tester. At this time, the cooling system is pressurized, just as it would be if the engine were running at its normal operating temperature. You can now observe the system to see if you can detect any leaks. To do this, watch the pressure gage on the tester. If the system doesnt contain any leaks, the pressure on the gage should remain steady. However, if the pressure reading on the gage slowly begins to drop, the cooling system has a leak in it somewhere.
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Chrysler Corporation)
FIGURE 57Remove the radiator cap, then use the pressure tester adapter to attach the pressure tester to the filler neck. (Courtesy of
If the pressure reading drops, visually check the external coolingsystem components for any signs of leaking coolant while the system is pressurized. Since the system is pressurized, coolant will flow or trickle out of the leaking area. If the pressure reading keeps dropping, occasionally pump up the pressure tester to keep the pressure reading at the rating of the pressure cap. This keeps pressure on the system until you can find the leak. Once youve found the location of the leak, the problem can be repaired. Some coolant leaks are caused by simple problems, such as a hose connection that needs to be tightened. Or, the leakage may be caused by something more serious, such as a failed water pump. Whatever the problem is, it must be repaired to prevent the coolant from leaking out of the system. Coolant leaks can also occur inside an engine. There are many possible areas inside an engine where coolant can leak, and, unfortunately, this type of leak isnt visible from the outside of the engine. This makes internal coolant leaks more difficult to detect than external leaks. During the pressure test, if the pressure reading drops but no external leaks can be found, it's likely that the leak is inside the engine. The following are the two basic types of internal coolant leaks: 1. A coolant leak into the lubrication system 2. A coolant leak into the combustion chamber
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A coolant leak into an engines lubrication system can be caused by a number of different problems. First, a cracked cylinder head or a cracked engine block could be allowing coolant to leak into the oil. A defective head gasket or a defective intake manifold gasket could also be causing the problem. On many enginesespecially V-type enginesthe coolant flows through a small portion of the intake manifold. Thus, a defective intake manifold gasket could allow coolant to leak down into the engine and drain into the oil pan, where the coolant mixes with the oil. The same thing can result from a defective cylinder head gasket. Coolant can leak past the head gasket and into the oil drain-back passages, and then down into the oil pan. You may remember that if the oil in an engines lubrication system becomes contaminated by coolant or water, the oil usually turns milky white or light tan. Therefore, if you suspect an internal coolant leak in an engine, one of the first things you should check is a sample of the oil. There are several ways that you can check the oil. First, you can remove the dipstick and observe the color of the oil on the stick. Second, you can remove the oil filler cap and look into the engine. If the oil has been badly contaminated, you may be able to see its color easily through the oil filler neck. Third, you can drain a small amount of oil out of the oil pan and check it. If you determine that the oil is contaminated with coolant, it's likely that the engine has an internal coolant leak. To find the exact location of the internal leak, you need to disassemble the engine and inspect the parts of the cooling system. (Youll learn about engine disassembly in detail later in the program.) If you suspect that an engine has an internal coolant leak, but the oil doesnt appear to be contaminated, then the coolant may be leaking into the combustion chamber. If coolant is leaking into the combustion chamber of a cylinder, the coolant will be burned along with the airand-fuel mixture. Coolant can enter a combustion chamber by leaking through a crack in the engine block or the cylinder head, or it may leak past a defective cylinder head gasket directly into the combustion chamber. If coolant is leaking into a combustion chamber, you may see whitecolored smoke emerging from the exhaust system. Often, you can detect the smell of antifreeze in the smoke. Usually, the smoke is heavy when the engine is first started. Because the cooling system is still under pressure when the engine is shut off, a lot of coolant leaks into the system at that time and builds up in the combustion chamber. This is why a lot of smoke is produced when the engine is first started again. After the engine has run for a few seconds, youll see less smoke. This is because the leaking coolant is burned as soon as it enters the cylinder and wont be allowed to build up. This condition is particularly noticeable if you performed a pressure test on the engine just before it
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was started because the tester will have forced a lot of coolant into the combustion chamber. Another way to determine if coolant is leaking into the combustion chamber is to examine the spark plugs. Remove the spark plug from each cylinder, and compare the plugs to one another. If one of the spark plugs appears to be wet with coolant, or looks extremely clean, it may be a sign that coolant is leaking into that cylinder. When coolant is burned in a cylinder, it tends to clean off the surfaces on the inside of the combustion chamber, including the end of the spark plug. If a coolant leak into a cylinder is severe enough, you may even be able to see coolant leaking out of the spark plug hole, if the system is pressurized and the spark plug is removed. If you determine that coolant is entering the combustion chamber, you usually need to remove the cylinder head and inspect the head gasket, the engine block, and the cylinder head to locate the source of the leak. A crack in the engine block, a crack in the cylinder head, or a defective cylinder head gasket wont always result in a coolant leak into the combustion chamber. Instead, combustion gases from the cylinder may leak into the cooling system. Remember that the air-and-fuel mixture in the cylinder is tightly compressed during the compression stage of the engine cycle. The pressure in the cylinder is usually much greater than the pressure in the cooling system, and this pressure may prevent coolant from leaking into the combustion chamber. Instead, the pressure in the combustion chamber causes combustion gases to leak out of the cylinder into the cooling system. As these gases leak into the cooling system, they cause the pressure in the cooling system to rise. The rising pressure in the cooling system eventually forces coolant out of the system through the pressure cap. In fact, if enough gases leak into the cooling system, they can force almost all of the coolant out of the system. To determine if combustion gases are leaking into the cooling system, attach the pressure tester. Then, with the pressure tester in place, start the engine. As the engine runs, observe the tester gage. If the pressure reading begins to rise and continues to rise, its a good indication that combustion gases are leaking into the cooling system. To repair this problem, you need to remove the cylinder head and inspect the components to locate the source of the leak.
Testing a Thermostat
Thermostats are vital to the operation of the cooling system and, therefore, to the operation of the entire engine. They usually fail in one of the following ways:
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1. By sticking open 2 By sticking closed To check for an open thermostat, allow the engine to cool completely, and remove the radiator cap. Start the engine and observe the coolant in the radiator. If the coolant immediately starts circulating, the thermostat is either stuck open or has been removed. To check for a closed thermostat, allow the engine to cool completely, and then refill the radiator, if necessary. Start the engine and allow it to warm up. An engine normally takes about five minutes to become warm. If the engine immediately begins to overheat, the thermostat is probably stuck closed and coolant isnt flowing through the engine. This means that the coolant will begin to boil after about five minutes of operation. The increase in coolant pressure pushes coolant out of the overflow. The most thorough check of the thermostat can be done when the thermostat is removed from the engine. To perform this test, attach the thermostat to a piece of wire, and suspend the thermostat in a pot of water as shown in Figure 58. Place a high-temperature thermometer in the water, too. Heat the water, and observe the thermostat to see when it begins to open. When the thermostat begins to open, read the thermometer. Be sure to suspend the thermostat in the waterdont let it rest on the bottom of the pot. And, dont allow the bottom of the thermometer to touch the bottom of the pot. The bottom of the pot will be hotter than the water in the pot, so if the thermometer or the thermostat touch the bottom, theyll heat up faster than the water, making your temperature readings incorrect. If the thermostat doesnt open at the rated temperature, replace it.
FIGURE 58To check the operation of a thermostat, suspend it in heated water. Use a thermometer to check the temperature of the water when the thermostat opens. (Printed with
permission from Honda Motor Co., Inc.)
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Thermostats cant be repaired and should always be replaced if defective. When thermostat replacement is necessary, the thermostat should always be replaced with a new thermostat of the heat range recommended by the manufacturer.
Cooling-System Repairs
Now that you've seen how to inspect cooling-system components and how to detect leaks in the system, lets look at how to remove and replace these components.
Removing and Replacing a Radiator

To repair or replace a radiator, first remove the radiator from the vehicle. The radiators in different vehicles are mounted in slightly different ways, but the removal procedure is similar for most radiators. A typical radiator installation is shown in Figure 59. The radiator is usually mounted at the front of the vehicle and is commonly attached to a part called the radiator support, which runs across the front of the car. In most cases, the radiator fits down into brackets that hook onto the frame of the car. The brackets hold the radiator in place. The top of the radiator may then be bolted to the radiator support, or a cover may fit over the top of the radiator and bolt onto the radiator support. If the car is equipped with an electric radiator fan and fan shroud, they're usually mounted to the radiator itself. These components may have to be removed in order to get the radiator out of the car. The following is a general procedure that can be used to remove the radiator in most vehicles. Step 1: Remove the coolant from the radiator by opening the drain petcock and allowing the coolant to drain out into a suitable container. Once the coolant has drained from the radiator, loosen the radiator hose clamps, and remove the hoses from the radiator connections. If the radiator is equipped with a transmission cooler, remove these lines using the correct size wrench. Locate the retaining bolts that hold the radiator fan shroud in place. Remove these bolts using an appropriate wrench, and remove the shroud from the radiator. If the vehicle is equipped with an electric fan, the fan unit is usually part of the shroud and is removed as one piece with the shroud.
Step 2:
Step 3:
Step 4:
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FIGURE 59A typical radiator installation is shown here.
(Used with permission of Mazda North American Operations)
Step 5:
Remove the retaining bolts that hold the top of the radiator in place. Make sure that there are no retaining bolts along the side of the radiator. Carefully lift the radiator up out of the vehicle. The radiator core is very delicate. Therefore, use extreme caution to prevent it from bumping into any other components as its removed.
Step 6:
Once the radiator is removed, be sure to place it somewhere safe to protect it from damage. The core of the radiator is delicate and can be damaged easily. This damage could result in a coolant leak. Once the radiator has been repaired, or if its being replaced with another radiator, it can be installed in the vehicle by simply reversing these steps.
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Removing and Replacing Hoses

If you determine that a radiator hose is defective, remove it and replace it with a new hose. The procedure for changing a cooling-system hose is straightforward. The first step is to make sure that you have the correct replacement hose. As you learned earlier, each vehicle uses a different hose. Therefore, in order to work properly, the replacement hose must be exactly the right one for the vehicle. Check to make sure that you have the correct hose before you remove the old hose. In addition, its usually a good idea to purchase new hose clamps to install with the new replacement hose. Often the hose clamps become rusted and corroded, and may even become damaged when you attempt to remove them. Therefore, to ensure that the new hose is installed properly and that it won't leak, use new clamps. Two types of replacement hoses are available: form-fit hoses and flex hoses. A form-fit hose is already formed into the correct size and shape for a particular vehicle. Some typical form-fit hoses are shown in Figure 60A. Notice how the hoses are already formed into the proper shape, and how the outside surfaces are completely smooth. In contrast, a flex hose is straight when you purchase it, but can easily be bent into the correct shape when its installed in a car. A typical flex radiator hose is shown in Figure 60B. The outside surface of the hose is shaped like a spring, which allows the hose to be bent as needed. Even though a flex hose can be bent into almost any shape, the hose still comes in different diameters and different lengths. Therefore, even if youre using a flex hose for a replacement, you still have to be sure that you get the correct size for the vehicle. Most technicians agree that a form-fit hose is a better choice for replacements, since its designed to fit perfectly and wont place any stress on the connections. However, if a form-fit hose isn't available, a flex hose can be used instead. Replacement heater hoses come in different diameters. Once you learn the diameter of the hose you need, simply purchase the correct length. With heater hoses, you dont have to worry about the type of vehicle. The easiest way to determine the length of hose you need is to measure the old hose. Since heater hose is much smaller than radiator hose, it can easily be bent into whatever shape is necessary. Once you have the right hose and clamps, youre ready to remove the old hose and replace it. The following is a general hose replacement procedure that works on most vehicles. Step 1: Drain the coolant from the cooling system.
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FIGURE 60Two typical form-fit replacement hoses are shown in Figure 60A. A flex hose is shown in Figure 60B.
Step 2:
Loosen the clamps that hold the hose in place. Most hose clamps can be loosened with a standard-blade screwdriver. Usually, theres one clamp at each end of a hose. In a typical hose connection, the hose slides over a tube thats attached to the component. The hose clamp squeezes the hose tightly around this tube. So, once the clamp is loose, simply slide the hose off the tube connection. If the hose is tight and doesnt slide off easily, try to twist the hose as you pull on it. Dont apply too much pulling force on the hose, because this could damage the component that the hose is attached to. This is especially true at the connections where the hose attaches to the radiator.
Step 3:
If the hose wont come loose, the easiest way to remove it is to simply cut it off at the connection using a utility knife. One or two cuts along the connection area is normally enough to allow the hose to be removed from the connection. Repeat this step at the other end of the hose. When removing the hose from the vehicle, be sure to note how the hose is connected. In particular, note where each end of the hose attaches so that you dont accidentally install the new hose in the wrong position. Step 4: Slide the new hose clamp over each end of the hose. Be sure that the clamps are loosened enough so that they slide over the hose easily.
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Step 5:
After the hose has been removed, clean the connection areas with a cloth. Be sure to remove any rust or corrosion so that the new hose seals properly. To install the new hose, slide each end of the new hose over the connections. If the hose fits very tightly, lubricate the inside of each end of the hose with some silicon lubricant. When the ends of the hose are installed over the connections, slide the hose clamps into place. In most situations, the clamp is installed about 1 2-inch to 1 inch back from the end of the hose. Once the clamp is in place, tighten it. A hose clamp should be tightened so that it squeezes the hose around the connection (Figure 61). However, be careful not to tighten the clamp too much. Its very important that a hose clamp be tightened just enough to hold the hose in position and prevent leaking. Overtightening squeezes the hose and may damage it. Overtightening may also damage the clamp. If you notice that the clamp is beginning to dig into the hose, or if the hose becomes distorted, the clamp is too tight. Once the clamp is tightened correctly, repeat this step for the other end of the hose.
Step 6:
Step 7:
FIGURE 61A hose clamp should be tightened around a connection as shown here.
Step 8:
At this point, the hose is installed. The cooling system should now be refilled with coolant. If a hose replacement was the only task you performed and the coolant was relatively fresh, the coolant that was removed from the system can be put back into the system and used again.
Removing and Replacing Belts

Over time, the drive belts used on an engine wear out. For this reason, belts are commonly removed and replaced by auto technicians. As you remember, two common types of drive belts are used on automotive enginesthe V-type belt and the serpentine belt. Lets begin by looking at the replacement of a V-type belt.
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To remove and replace a V-type drive belt, loosen the mounting bolts and slide the accessory so that all of the tension is off of the belt. Then, remove the belt from the pulleys. Be sure that you take note of how the belt is located so that you can properly install the new belt. Install the new belt over the pulleys, and then adjust the belt tension as described earlier in this study unit. To replace a serpentine belt, release the tension on the belt by prying back the spring-loaded idler pulley. As you learned earlier, some manufacturers may provide special brackets that will allow you to use a wrench rather than a pry bar to release the belt tension. Once the tension is released, the belt can be removed and a new belt can be installed. To install a new serpentine belt, place the belt over all the pulleys except the idler pulley. Then, pry back the idler pulley, slip the belt over the pulley, and release the idler pulley. When you release the idler pulley, the spring tension of the pulley will tighten the belt to the proper tension. Remember that a single serpentine belt is used to drive all the pulleys on an engine. Thus, a serpentine belt may be quite long and wrap around many pulleys. Since there could be many pulleys on the engine, its easy to forget exactly how the belt was installed in the engine. For this reason, its a good idea to draw a sketch of the way the belt runs before you take the old belt off. This way, you can refer back to your sketch when you install the new belt. The vehicle manufacturer often places a sticker in the engine compartment that illustrates how the belt should be installed, or a drawing may be provided in the vehicle service manual. As you can see, a serpentine belt is easier to get off than a V-type belt. However, its usually a little bit harder to determine how a serpentine type belt should be installed.
Removing and Replacing a Thermostat

To remove the thermostat, drain all the coolant from the system. (Note: Be sure that the engine is cold before draining the coolant.) Once the coolant is drained, remove the upper radiator hose from the thermostat housing. Next, remove the retaining bolts that hold the thermostat housing in place. Once the housing is removed, the thermostat can be pulled out of the engine and tested, as we discussed earlier in the study unit. When you remove the thermostat, be sure to note how the thermostat was installed so that you can install the new one properly. It's possible to install the thermostat backwards if you dont note the proper installation position. To install a new thermostat, clean off any leftover gasket material from the area. Use a gasket-scraping tool or a putty knife to do this. Then install the thermostat into the thermostat housing. When installing the
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thermostat, be sure that the portion that contains the wax pellet is facing into the engine, as shown in Figure 62. Once the thermostat is in place, install the thermostat housing and a new gasket. Tighten the retaining bolts, and reinstall the radiator hose. Finally, refill the coolant system as we described earlier.
FIGURE 62When installing a thermostat, be sure that the part that contains the wax pellet faces into the engine.
Removing and Replacing a Water Pump

The exact design of the water pump and its location vary slightly from engine to engine. As you learned earlier, in some engines, the water pump is driven by a drive belt, while in others, the pump is driven by the engines timing belt. Since each vehicle is slightly different, you usually need to refer to the vehicles service manual to determine the exact procedures needed to remove and replace the water pump. However, the following water-pump removal procedure works on almost all engines. Step 1: Drain the coolant from the system. As always, be sure that the engine is completely cooled down before you remove the radiator pressure cap. If the pump has the radiator hose attached direct to it, loosen the hose clamp and remove the hose from the pump. If the heater hose that carries coolant to the passenger compartment is attached to the pump, loosen the clamp and remove that hose as well. If the water pump has a bypass hose attached to it, loosen the hose clamps and remove the hose. Because this hose is usually very short, its sometimes difficult to get the hose off. The easiest way to remove the hose is to disconnect it at each end and move it completely out of the way. In some cases, you may need to use a screwdriver to pry the hose off the connection.
Step 2:
Step 3:
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Step 4:
If the radiator fan is attached to the water pump, loosen the retaining bolts with an appropriate wrench, and remove the fan. Loosen the tension on the drive belt, and remove the belt from the engine. As we mentioned earlier, several V-type belts may be used on an engine. Therefore, in some cases, it might be necessary to remove another drive belt just to get access to the belt that drives the water pump. Using an appropriate wrench, remove the bolts that hold the pump housing to the engine. In most vehicles, the water pump is held in place by several bolts that run through holes in the pump housing and thread into the engine block or front cover, as shown in Figure 63. When removing the bolts, be sure to observe the size of the bolts. In many cases, the length of the bolts varies. Therefore, be sure that you note which bolts go in which holes so that youll be able to reinstall them properly in the new pump. In many cases, its a good idea to take notes or draw a sketch of the bolt to help you remember this information.
Step 5:
Step 6:
FIGURE 63In most vehicles, the water pump is held in place by several bolts that run through holes in the pump housing and thread into the engine block or front cover. (Printed with permission from Honda Motor Corp., Inc.)
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Step 7:
After all the bolts have been removed, remove the water pump from the engine. Dont apply too much force to the pump. If the pump is tight and doesnt come off easily, carefully look at the pump housing to make sure that all of the retaining bolts were removed. These bolts are sometimes hard to see, and its easy to overlook one. Once youre sure that all of the bolts have been removed, lightly tap on the pump with a plastic mallet to help remove it from the engine. When the old pump is off the engine, clean any leftover gasket material from the area. A paper or rubber gasket is often placed between the pump and the engine block to prevent coolant from leaking in that area. When you install a new pump, you must install a new gasket as well. Most replacement pumps come with a new gasket in the box.
Step 8:
Remember that water pumps arent usually repaired; instead, a pump is usually replaced with a new or a factory-rebuilt pump. Therefore, before you install the new pump, its important to compare it to the old pump to make sure theyre the same. Carefully check the bolt pattern, pulley size, and hose connections. In addition, make sure that the replacement pump has all of the necessary fittings attached to it, such as the connection where a heater hose attaches. In some cases, you may need to remove a fitting from the old pump and install it on the new pump. Step 9: Once youre sure that you have the correct pump, and when the mating surfaces have been cleaned of all old gasket material, you can install the new pump and gasket onto the engine. Usually, its easiest to place two bolts into the pump, and then slide the new gasket over those bolts and push it up against the pump housing. This helps to hold the gasket in place as you install the pump. When the gasket is in place against the pump, hold the pump up to its proper position on the engine block. Start turning the bolts into the threaded holes with your fingers. (Make sure that the bolt of the correct length is installed in each hole. Refer to the notes or drawing you made during the disassembly to determine where the different bolts were located.) After the two bolts have been installed finger-tight, install the remaining bolts by hand. When all of the bolts have been installed in this way, tighten the bolts with an appropriate wrench. Check the manufacturers service manual to see if a torque specification is provided for these bolts. Most bolts, however, wont need to be tightened to a specific torque value.
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Step 10:
Once the pump is mounted onto the engine block, you can simply reverse the disassembly steps to complete the job. Reinstall the drive belts, the fan, and the hoses, and then refill the system with coolant.
As you learned, each engine is a little bit different, but the basic procedure for removing and replacing the water pump is usually the same. If a water pump is driven by the timing belt, the front engine cover usually has to be removed to gain access to the pump. In addition, the timing belt that drives the water pump has to be removed. Once these items are out of the way, youre usually able to unbolt the water pump from the engine block and replace it with a new pump.
Servicing Temperature Indicators

In a cooling system, the temperature indicators warn the driver if an engine is too hot. Temperature indicators are devices that use electrical signals to indicate the temperature in the cooling system. Before you attempt to troubleshoot any temperature indicator, you must make sure that the cooling-system temperature is low enough for you to work safely on the system. If a temperature gage or warning light indicates that a cooling system is overheating, you must allow the vehicle to sit for several hours to let the temperature drop to a safe level. This is also necessary for you to make an accurate appraisal of the cooling system. After the engine has cooled completely, check the coolant level. Then, start the engine. If the gage or warning light immediately indicates that the engine is overheating, the indicator device or circuit is probably defective. If the temperature gage indicates that an engine is continually running cold, let the engine run for a while, and then lightly touch the radiator hose. If the radiator hose is too hot to touch comfortably, then the engine temperature is probably above 170 degrees, and the temperature gage should begin to rise. If the gage still indicates that the engine is cold, the indicator device or circuit isnt working properly. If the reading on a gage-type temperature indicator is too high, disconnect the senders electrical connector. Then, watch the temperature gage. If the gage reading doesnt change, try grounding the sensor wire to the engine block; that is, touch the wire to the engine block. Depending on the type of sender the engine uses, one of these two actionseither unplugging the wire or grounding the wireshould cause the gage to move. If the gage does move, the sender is probably faulty. If the gage doesnt move, the gage itself may be defective, or no electric current is reaching the gage, possibly due to a blown fuse.
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If a warning light comes on whenever the ignition switch is on, disconnect the senders electrical connector. If the light goes out after you do this, the sender is probably faulty. If the light stays on, then an electrical problem is causing the light circuit to ground before it reaches the sender. If the warning light never comes on and the engine has overheated, observe the light while cranking the engine. If the light comes on while youre cranking the engine, the sender is probably faulty. If the light doesnt come on, the bulb may be burned out, the light fuse may be blown, or there may be a problem in the circuit wiring.
Troubleshooting Cooling-System Problems

Throughout this study unit, you've learned how the various cooling system components are inspected and how defects in these parts affect the system. In summary, there are two basic problems that can occur in a cooling system. First, the engine may run too hot or overheat, which might damage the engine. Second, the engine may run too cold to operate efficiently. Overheating is generally a more serious problem, since excessive temperatures can cause serious damage to engine components, and may prevent the engine from running at all.
Overheating
An overheated engine is usually easy to identify. First of all, the temperature indicator on the dashboard alerts the driver when the temperature is too hot. Also, in an overheated engine, the coolant can get so hot that it actually boils, even though its boiling point has been raised with the addition of antifreeze. When an engines coolant boils, the condition is referred to as a boilover. Just has a pot of soup can boil over and spill onto the surface of a stove, coolant can boil over and spill out of an engine. At one time or another, most of us have seen a boiled-over vehicle on the side of the road, with white steam pouring out from under the hood. When an engine overheats and the coolant begins to boil, the boiling action creates air pockets in the system. The air pockets increase the pressure in the system. The pressure quickly rises so much that coolant is forced out past the pressure cap, overflowing the recovery tank and spilling all over the ground. There are several reasons why the coolant in an engine may becomes too hot. Most often, overheating occurs when the coolant is prevented from flowing through the cooling system properly. The coolant flow may be restricted by a thermostat thats stuck closed, or by a radiator in which the core passages are blocked with rust and corrosion.
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Another possible cause of coolant overheating is that the radiator isnt receiving the airflow it needs to cool the coolant properly. Even though the coolant may be flowing through the radiator with no restrictions, it cant be cooled properly unless a good supply of air passes through the radiator core. This lack of airflow could occur if dirt and debris are blocking the radiators cooling fins, or if a cooling fan isn't operating properly. An airflow problem may also occur if an air dam is damaged and isn't directing enough air up into the radiator. Engine overheating may also be caused by a low coolant level. A low coolant level in an engine is usually caused by a leak. As youve seen, leaks can occur in almost every part of a cooling system. The most common places to find coolant leaks are from holes in the radiator core, defective water pumps, and damaged or loose radiator hoses. Leaking cylinder head gaskets are also a common problem; however, leaky head gaskets usually result in internal leaks that allow coolant to enter the combustion chamber or mix in with the lubricating oil. No matter where it occurs, any coolant leak eventually results in a low coolant level, which can cause the engine to overheat. Certain ignition-system problems can also cause engine overheating. In general, if the ignition timing isnt correct, the air-and-fuel mixture in the cylinder could burn at the wrong time. When the mixture burns at the wrong time, it could cause the engine to run at a higher temperature than normal. Youll learn about ignition-system problems in more detail in a later study unit. For now, just be aware that an ignition-system problem could cause an engine to overheat.
Overcooling
As you learned earlier, its possible for an engine to actually run too cold. A cold-running engine produces less power and is less fuelefficient than an engine that runs at the proper temperature. Although overcooling isnt as serious as overheating, its still a problem that needs to be repaired. Remember that some hot coolant is sent to the passenger compartment to supply heat for the comfort of the driver and passengers. If an engine runs too cold, the coolant is cold, and very little heat is produced in the passenger area. Therefore, a complaint about a lack of heat in the passenger area is often the first sign that indicates an overcooling problem. However, be aware that a lack of heat in the passenger compartment isnt always an indication that the engine is running too cold; other problems may cause a lack of heat. In most vehicles, the heater core is located in a higher position than the rest of the cooling-system components. Because of its placement, the heater core is one of the first components to run out of coolant when theres a leak in the system. Therefore, when a coolant leak exists, its common for the driver to no-
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tice a lack of heat in the passenger compartment. A quick check of the coolant level tells you whats causing the problem. If the coolant level is low, its probably the cause of the lack of heat. However, if the coolant level is okay, then the lack of heat may be due to the engine running too cold. Almost always, an engine that runs too cold and fails to reach its normal operating temperature has a thermostat thats stuck open. When a thermostat sticks in its open position, it allows coolant to flow through the radiator at all times.
Cooling-System Noises
Unusual noises may also indicate a problem in the cooling system. Unusual noises are any noises that you dont normally hear during the operation of the vehicle. However, make sure that a noise is in fact coming from the cooling system before attempting any repairs on the system. Cooling-system noises can often be confused with noises that are coming from other parts of a vehicle. The following problems most often cause unusual noises in the cooling system. 1. Worn or damaged water pump bearings, drive belts, or drive-belt pulleys usually make low rumbling noises. 2. A loose or broken fan blade or a defective electric fan motor may make rattling noises. 3. A loose drive belt that slips on the pulleys usually produces a high-pitched squealing noise.
Problems with the Radiator Fan

A radiator fan that doesnt engage when its needed can cause an engine to overheat. As you learned earlier, the radiator fan is designed to operate only when its needed. If a fan is belt-driven, a fan clutch allows the fan to spin freely when it isnt needed, and engages the fan to the drive belt when extra air through the radiator is needed. If the fan clutch is faulty, however, it wont engage the fan when the engine becomes hot, and the engine could overheat. In contrast, if a radiator fan runs all the time, the engine could be cooled too much and may not reach its normal operating temperature. This is especially true when a vehicle is operated in very cold weather. The design of the fan clutch varies from manufacturer to manufacturer. A fan clutch may be operated by a temperature control thats built into the fan, it may be operated by a fluid coupling, or it may be electrically operated. The vehicles service manual usually indicates the type of fan clutch thats used.
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The fan should spin freely when the engine is cold. To check the operation of a fan clutch, turn off the engine and allow it to cool completely. Then, simply try to move the fan by hand. The fan should spin freely. If the fan is hard to turn, then the fan clutch is probably defective. This type of problem isnt very common, but it can result in a cold-running engine. Another possible problem is that the fan clutch doesnt engage the fan when the engine becomes hot. If this happens, the engine may overheat, especially in warm weather. To check the operation of the clutch, turn on the engine and observe the fan while the engine is running. Dont touch the fan! Simply observe it to see whether its spinning freely, or if its being driven by the drive belt. If the fan doesnt appear to be rotating at a high speed, and if it appears to be spinning freely, then the fan clutch is probably defective and not engaging the fan to the drive belt. Again, problems with the fan clutch are rare, but its always a possibility. An electric radiator fan is operated by an electric control switch that turns the fan on and off based on the engine temperature. In this type of system, the electric fan motor may fail, causing the fan to fail to run at all. This can cause the engine to overheat. In addition, if the electric control switch is defective, it could cause the fan to run all the time, which can cause the engine to run too cold. If you find that an electric fan isnt working properly, you must first determine whether the problem is in the fan motor or in the switch that controls it. Remember that the fan is operated by electricity thats provided by the battery of the car. (Note: Youll learn about electrical-circuit troubleshooting in more detail in a later study unit. However, some general information is provided here.) To locate the source of the problem, you need to bypass the control switch and apply power directly to the fan motor to see if the fan motor is in good condition. If the fan motor runs when the power is applied directly to it, then the motor is probably okay, and the problem is more likely in the control circuit. If the fan doesnt run properly with the power applied directly to it, then the fan motor is most likely defective and must be replaced. The specific repair procedures to fix the fan control system are listed in the vehicles service manual. Some fans are even controlled directly by the onboard computer. Youll learn about these computer-control systems in detail later in the course. Figure 64 is a quick reference chart that you can use to diagnose some of the most common cooling-system problems.
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Overheating
Malfunctioning thermostat, radiator cap and fan coupling. Radiator fan choked with mud, chaff, etc. Incorrect ignition and valve timing. Dirty oil and sludge in engine. Inoperative water pump. Loose fan belt. Restricted radiator. Inacurrate temperature gauge. Impurity in water.
Replace. Clean out air passage thoroughly by using air pressure from engine side of radiator. Adjust. Refill. Replace. Adjust. Flush radiator. Replace. Use soft clean water. Use soft clean water. (Rain water is satisfactory.) Cooling system should be drained and flushed thoroughly twice a year. Permanent antifreeze (ethylene glycol base) can be used throughout the seasons of the year. Check hoses for crimps and clear the system of rust and sludge by flushing radiator. Replenish. Replace. Adjust. Replace. Replace pump assembly. Replace pump assembly. Replace. Replace.
Corrosion
Excessive impurity in water. Infrequent flushing and draining of system.
Poor Circulation
Restriction in system. Insufficient coolant. Inoperative water pump. Loose fan belt. Inoperative thermostat.
Noise
Squeak at water pump. Mechanical seal damaged or worn water pump bearing.
Overcooling
Malfunctioning thermostat. Inaccurate temperature gauge.
FIGURE 64This reference chart provides some guidelines to follow when troubleshooting a cooling system.
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Power Check 4
1. If a radiators _______ are blocked with rust and corrosion, it usually causes the engine to overheat. 2. A water pump contains a special drain hole called a _______ hole that allows any coolant that leaks past the seal to drain out of the pump. 3. The two types of replacement hoses that may be installed in a cooling system are a _______ and a _______. 4. If a water pump is driven by the timing belt, the ______ and the _______ usually have to be removed to gain access to the pump. 5. A radiator is usually mounted at the front of a vehicle, attached to the _______. 6. A cracked cylinder head, a cracked engine block, or a defective head gasket could cause coolant to leak into an engines _______ or _______. 7. The condition in which the inner edges of a drive belt melt and become glossy is called _______. 8. In a water pump, the components that are most likely to wear out are the _______ and the _______. 9. White or greenish residue on the outside surface of a radiator usually indicates that the radiator has a _______. 10. Most manufacturers recommend that cooling-system hoses should be replaced once every _______ years to avoid the possibility of failure. Questions 1122: Indicate whether the following statements are True or False. _____ 11. Its usually cheaper to replace a radiator than to have it rebuilt and reconditioned. _____ 12. A crack in the engine block, a crack in the cylinder head, or a defective cylinder head gasket could cause combustion gases from the cylinder to leak into the cooling system. _____ 13. To remove a thermostat from an engines cooling system, it wont be necessary to drain all the coolant from the system. _____ 14. Serpentine belts are usually easier to remove than V-type belts.
(Continued)
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Power Check 4
_____ 15. Overcooling is generally a more serious problem than overheating. _____ 16. The lower radiator hose is exposed to the greatest amount of heat, so it's the most likely to show signs of damage. _____ 17. Soft spots in a cooling-system hose indicate that the hose is beginning to fail or wear out. _____ 18. In general, its better to use a form-fit hose than flex-hose when making replacement in a cooling system. _____ 19. A coolant leak or a low coolant level usually causes engine overcooling. _____ 20. The suction created by the water pump could cause the upper radiator hose to collapse, if the hose is too soft. _____ 21. Water pumps are usually repaired rather than replaced. _____ 22. Thermostats cant be repaired and should always be replaced if defective. Check your answers with those on page 100.
SUMMARY
Now that youve read this study unit, you know that an engine cant operate properly or efficiently if its either too hot or too cold. The cooling system is designed to maintain an engine at the proper temperature. In this study unit, you learned about each of the cooling-system componentsthe water pump, the drive belt, the coolant passages, the radiator, the radiator pressure cap, the coolant recovery system, radiator fans, hoses, thermostats, and temperature gages. You also learned how to maintain, test, and repair a cooling system. Lastly, you learned how to detect some common cooling-system problems.
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Power Check Answers

1
1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20. low-tox conduction, convection, and radiation 50-50 mixture convection antifreeze radiation water jackets conduction False True False False True True True True True False False True 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. True False False True False False False idler pulley core plugs filler neck top-flow blow-off valve battery hose clamps warning light coolant recovery tank radiator lower petcock
100
3
1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20. 21. 22. 23. False True False True True True True True False False True False lower 20 radiator filler neck hydrometer year drain petcock engine block block drain plugs month thermostat coolant recovery and recycling machine 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20. 21. 22. core passages bleed
form-fit hose, flex hose front engine cover, timing belt radiator support lubrication system, combustion chamber glazing bearings, seal leak four False True False True False False True True False False False True
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Study Unit - Automotive Cooling Systems

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Study Unit - Automotive Cooling Systems

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Automotive Cooling Systems

COOLING-SYSTEM COMPONENTS AND THE FLOW OF COOLANT 13

INSPECTING, TESTING, AND REPAIRING A COOLING SYSTEM 64

SUMMARY 97 POWER CHECK ANSWERS 99 EXAMINATION 101

Automotive Cooling Systems

Automotive Cooling Systems

Three Methods of Heat Removal

Automotive Cooling Systems

Automotive Cooling Systems

Automotive Cooling Systems

Automotive Cooling Systems

Automotive Cooling Systems

Automotive Cooling Systems

FIGURE 2The components of a typical heater system are shown here.

Automotive Cooling Systems

with permission of Mazda North American Operations)

Automotive Cooling Systems

Ethylene Glycol Antifreeze

Automotive Cooling Systems

Automotive Cooling Systems

Automotive Cooling Systems

COOLING-SYSTEM COMPONENTS AND THE FLOW OF COOLANT

Automotive Cooling Systems

Automotive Cooling Systems

Automotive Cooling Systems

Automotive Cooling Systems

The Water Pump Drive Belt

Automotive Cooling Systems

FIGURE 9A crosssection of a typical serpentine belt is shown here. (Courtesy of Chrysler

The Coolant Passages

Automotive Cooling Systems

Automotive Cooling Systems

permission from Honda Motor Co., Inc.)

Automotive Cooling Systems

Automotive Cooling Systems

FIGURE 14A cutaway view of a typical radiator core is shown here.

Automotive Cooling Systems

Automotive Cooling Systems

Automotive Cooling Systems

Automotive Cooling Systems

The Radiator Pressure Cap

Automotive Cooling Systems

Automotive Cooling Systems

The Coolant Recovery System

Automotive Cooling Systems

Automotive Cooling Systems

Automotive Cooling Systems

from the Honda Motor Co., Inc.)

Automotive Cooling Systems

Automotive Cooling Systems

Automotive Cooling Systems

Automotive Cooling Systems

Coolant System Hoses

Automotive Cooling Systems

Honda Motor Co., Inc. )

(Printed with permission from

Automotive Cooling Systems

Automotive Cooling Systems

Automotive Cooling Systems

Automotive Cooling Systems

Automotive Cooling Systems

A Review of the Flow of Coolant

Automotive Cooling Systems