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CORNELL
UNIVERSITY LIBRARY
GIFT OF
Prof. E. M. Chamont
Date Due
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PRINTED
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QE 392.W83
A book of precious
t.
of Precious Stones
THE IDENTIFICATION OF GEMS AND GEM MINERALS, AND AN ACCOUNT OF THEIR SCIENTIFIC, COMMERCIAL,
ARTISTIC,
A Book
BY
JULIUS WODISKA
IN
press
u^
l^
o 7
vJ
BY
Copyright, igog
JULIUS WODISKA
H.rv\fc:^^..,,,.:7
'Rew
J|h>rft
PEEFAOE
'X'HE
gather together
of all
in the present
volume information
it
many
in
may
book of reference
of equal interest
to the amateur,
The study
pects,
of gems, in its
more obvious
as-
specifically of crystallography
and of the
or
more
allied
science, chemistry
and
be
While
it
is
may
with gems,
that
if
this
scientific
iv
Preface
most interesting aspects of the subwhich is related not only to art, but to
of the
some
ject,
history
well.
From
as
are
also
the
more important
are
classified,
semi-
precious
stones,
which
history
those
Diathe
mond-cutting,
its
and processes,
gems,
gems of the
ters,
great,
in
cut-
new
arts
all in-
considered,
formation
tables,
comprehended
in
appended
lists,
who have
first
whose
scientific
skill
have been of very great help in preparing this volume. Among authorities drawn upon for information are Dr.
Max
Preface
Cummings
Farrington, Mr.
Edwin
W.
Mr.
Streeter,
W.
E. Cattelle.
The
Jeweller's Circular-WeeJcly,
to
of
New York
and
The author
more
and importer
of
gems
justifies
him
in presenting in
is
which
who
are
of
subject
J.
W.
New
CONTENTS
Gems and Jjewelet
Thh
Interest
It
Precious Stones
III.
viii
CHAPTER
Contents
FAGB
XV.
XVI.
XVII.
XVIII.
Chetsopbase
12
14^3
Jadb
Moonstone;
147
151
Peeidot
XIX.
KuNziTE
TOUEMALINES
154 160
169 173
XX.
XXI.
XXII.
XXIII.
Ambee
Bloodstone
Moss Agate
176
.
XXIV.
.179
183 195
XXV.
XXVI.
XXVII.
XXVIII.
CONSTEUCTION
FOLK-LOEE
XXIX.
239
XXXI.
XXXII.
....
253
262
Contents
ix
APPENDIX
PAGE
Alphabetical List of
List of Important
Gem
Minerals
285
292
Gems According
to Colours
Dicliroism
Gems
The Mohs Table
of Hardness
.
. .
294
.295
.
Table of Hardness of
Gem
Minerals
296
Table
Showing
Specific
Gravity
of
Gem
Minerals
297
298 300
301 303
Refraction
"Birth-Stones":
Gems Popularly
Months
.
303
Gems
(Bibliography)
307
343 357
Glossabt Ikdbx
ILLUSTRATIONS IN COLOUR
PAGB
Cinnabar,
Emerald
tains.
crystal,
Green and pink Tourmaline from Mesa Grande, Cal.; owned by Harvard University. Pink Tourmaline in Albite with Lepidolite, Mesa Grande, Cal.
.
160
Gold
remarkably
fine
specimens
from
Cali-
fornia
188
ILLUSTRATIONS
PAGB
workings
........
Diamond Mines: Open
in the
28
Kaffir employees
gambling
compound, Kim30
berley Mines
On
the floors loading blue earth for the washing machines at Kimberley. Diamond pulsator at De Beers Diamond Mines, Kimberley, South
Africa
32
to Kimberley, South Africa
Railway
...
level,
34
36
One
day's
diamond wash
at the
Kimberley Mines
De
38
Diamond
size
46
......
Cullinan Diamond: Cleaving implements; room in Amsterdam where the rough stone was cut
and polished
Amethyst: Extraordinary specimen of Amethyst
crystals
60
96
xiv
Illustrations
PAOB
Garnet crystals, and pebbles of Pyrope. Sapphires. Diamond crystals from Kimberley Mines
Siberian
108
Topaz.
Specimens in
United States
122
National
Museum
Moss Agate
176
....
Diamond
178
Smoky
Diamond
National
Museum
186
IQl
. .
Oriental
gem
cutters
...
The
.
198
Tulp
Straat,
Amsterdam
diamond centre
200
of the world
Gem minerals: A
celebrated collection
250
Brooch, Festoon, Ring, and Earring: Suggestions for students and jewellers
Suggestions for students and jewellers
.
.
.....
.
252
254
Pearl and
Diamond
Collar.
Design donated by
256
.
258
Brooklyn,
N.
Y.
"Work of
260
students
Illustrations
xv
....
Work
of
262
Work
of students in
of
Design Cooper Union Jewelry Class: Prize design by Mr. Frederick E. Bauer
Society of Arts and Crafts, Boston: Gold pen-
264
266
dant with Topaz and Pearls. Gold pendant with Pearls (old chain). Gold ring with Opal and Emeralds. By Mrs. Ednah S. G. Higginson
268
.....
at
Rhode
270
Rhode
Island School of
Design: Specimens of
272
students'
work
Oxidised silver necklace, pale yellow Topaz, and white Pearl blisters by Florence A. Richmond.
Society of
274
Dyers' Arts and Crafts School, Indianapolis, Ind. Finished work of students
....
278
GEMS AND JEWELET THE INTEREST OF THE SUBJECT, AND THE NEED OF MOEE BOOKS
CONCERNING
IT
they are
set,
manners and
customs.
The known history of some existent famous gems covers more years than the story
some modern nations.
its
of
Around the
to
flashing
Kohinoor and
legends,
not
less
the
general
A
who
reader
gems
fair
beautiful
and beguiling
in the
the thought of
man
civilisation, personal
oc-
and
prized.
The symbolism
and sentiment of the precious and semi-precious stones, and precious metals, permeate literature.
Jewels have their place in the descriptions of
is
the subject of
is
in
among them
gems
in
Gems and
is
Jewelry
the
name
gems which have passed through the diamond cutter or the lapidisposi-
to
hobbies
are
nowadays
common;
some
some take
to
to mineralogy,
some
to botany,
So far as popularity is conscientific study of gems is, as comthe cerned, pared with the studies above named, at a
entomology.
disadvantage.
into the
life
study of nature
apt to be attracted by
and
action,
and
his attention
won by
the forms
as birds, butterflies,
or wildflowers.
or
the
leaves
of
forest
trees.
The
new
to
some
investigators.
its prospecting rambles and the employment found in classifying and installing specimens for
with
exhibition.
The high
intrinsic value of
all
most of
specimens, and
men
selves deeply in
and observer.
This,
no
doubt,
is
why
settings
a place
treats.
It is the author's
hope
Gems and
and
will at the
Jewelry
5
to,
same time
interest
them and
And
jewel
merchant or salesman
to
is
badly handi-
interest to him.
There
are,
to be sure,
journals,
and the
art of
business
man
The
For
in-
of April,
there
is
this
complaint
" I
know men
other lines
in the
who have
is
commerce right at
in our
their
This
downis
town jewelry
In
fact,
no trade
A Book
of Precious Stones
and
poorer in books on the trade than the jewelry And in the silver and art-metal trades."
issue the complaint is repeated.
same
" It
is
and
is
designed, as far as
to,
it
and
to give of in-
the salesman
OHAPTEE
CLASSIFICATIONS OF PRECIOUS
II
AND SBMI-PEBCIOUS
STONES
THERE seems to be a
of opinion of
considerable difference
writers on the subject
among
gems as
to
classed as precious
classed
writers,
as semi-precious.
The more
to
scientific
treat
the
appear to be
favour.
its
publication by the
jewelry trade in America, and classified according to present standards of popularity, or what
the authors believe to be such.
The arrangeupon
per-
ment
Book
the
of Precious Stones
business
of
engaged
in
importing
and
gems
classified
according to their
for
respective values
them.
of opinion, after
was very
in-
of doubt as to
my
nomination of the
five
precious
over others.
number
seen
chapter.
The quintet
ties
of
pre-
pearl
without dissent, with the exception that the is omitted by some devoted scientific minnot an original mineral.
writers increase the
eralogists, because it is
Some
number
of precious
Classifications of Stones
stones,
as,
9
Cattelle,
for instance,
Mr.
W.
E.
who
alexandrite,
and
this
My
classification is as follows:
Corundum
SEMI-PKECIOUS STONES
Class I
Alexandrite
lo
Book
of Precious Stones
Glass III
Hyacinth
Jacinth
Moonstone
Zircon
Jargoon
Class IV
Labradorite
Lapiz-lazuli
Malachite
Onyx
Sard or Sardonyx
The
no standard
classifica-
by the great variation exhibited by leading auMr. Edwin W. on the subject. thorities
Streeter, the
of books on
fac-
tors of value in several precious stones, writes in the first chapter of his
difBcult to
Stones in the order of their relative value, that order being subject to occasional variation according to the caprice of fashion or the rarity of the stones. Nevertheless it is believed that the following scheme, in which all Precious Stones are
grouped in five classes, fairly indicates the relative rank which they take at the present day.
Classifications of
I.
Stones
It
is
ii
true that
product of a mollusc or shell-flsh, is not strictly a mineral. It is, however, so intimately related in many ways with the family
of true precious stones that it properly claims a
the Peridot, the Topaz, and the Zircon. Some of these, especially the Alexandrite, are so beautiful that they deserve a more extended use in the arts
of jewelry than they enjoy at present.
comes another
class,
which
12
A Book of Precious
Stones
rather than for personal decoration. As examples of such stones may be cited the Agate, Malachite,
and Rock-crystal.
Dr.
Max
stones, discusses in
motives of mineralogists and jewellers in grouping and classifying gems, and seems to regard
As an example he
as used in his
their
gems,
their
hardness,
optical
It is in-
characters,
Kluge was dominated to a large extent by the then market value of the stones, probably in Germany, or in the European markets in general.
KLUGE'S CLASSIFICATION
1.
Distinguishing
fine
great
hardness,
colour,
perfect
transparency
combined with
of a fine polish,
for
strong lustre
(fire), susceptibility
in
specimens suitable
Classifications of Stones
A.
13
Gems
of the First
10.
Rank
Consisting of
2.
3.
Chrysoberyl
Spinel
4.
B.
Gems
of the Second
Rank
a prominent constituent.
size
In specimens of large
and of
Value
per-
Group A, but
than
poorer specimens of
5. 6.
Group A.
8.
9.
Zircon
7.
Topaz
C.
10.
Gems
of the Third
Rank
true
stones.
Specific
gravity
With
the exception
14
A Book of Precious
is
Stones
of turquoise, silica
of
all
a prominent constituent
these
stones.
Idocrase
Andalusite
18. Chiastolite
19.
Epidote
Kyanite
2.
20. Turquoise
Semi-Prbcious Stones
all of the distinguishing
precious stones,
but to a
less
marked
degree.
D.
Gems
of the
Fourth Bank
2-3 (with
the
are
Hardness, 4-7.
exception
of
Specific gravity
amber).
Not as a
translucent,
rule
or
transparent:
often
Wide
distribu-
Quartz
Rock-Orystal
A. Crystallised quartz
b.
Amethyst
Classifications of
c.
Stones
b.
c.
IS
Common Quartz
Prase Aventurine
Cat's-Bye
Semi-Opal
d.
e.
f.
Hydrophane
Cacholong
Jasper-Opal
d.
e.
f.
g.
Rose-Quartz
22.
Common-Opal
B. Chalcedony
a.
b.
c.
Feldspar a. Adularia
b.
Amazon-Stone
23. Labradorite
24.
d.
e.
f.
Plasma
Heliotrope Jasper
Obsidian
g.
Chrysoprase
Hypersthene Diopside
C. Opal
a.
Fire-Opal
Amber
E.
Gems
Hardness and
Never transparent.
insignificant,
Low
degree of lustre.
Value very
upon them.
Bronzite
i6
Book
of Precious Stones
46.
39. Bastite
Bhodochrogite
(calcite
47. 48.
Hematite
Prehnite
41.
42.
49. Elajolite
50. Natrolite 51.
43. Alabaster
Lava
52. Quartz-breccia
53. Lepidolite
and many of them have probably never been heard of by American jewellers.
Because of the
pre-eminence of
Dr.
Max
ardis-
work
in
Diamond Corundum
Ruby, Sapphire, including star-sapphire and white sapphire, " Oriental aquamarine,"
" Oriental emerald," " Oriental chrysolite," " Oriental topaz," " Oriental hyacinth," " Oriental amethyst," adamantine-spar. Spinel " Euby-spinel," " Balas-ruby," Alamandinespinel," Eubicelle, Blue-spinel, Ceylonite.
Chrysoberyl
Classifications of Stones
17
Cymophane ("Oriental
drite.
cat's-eye"), Alexan-
Beryl
Emerald,
olite,"
" Aquamarine-chrys-
Euclase Phenakite
Topaz
Zircon
Hyacinth Garnet Group Hessonite (Cinnamon stone), Spessartite, Almandine, Pyrope (Bohemian garnet, "Cape ruby," and Rhodolite), Demantoid, Grossularite, Melanite, Topazolite.
Tourmaline Opal
Precious opal. Fire-opal, Turquoise Bone-turquoise
Lazulite
Callainite
Common
opal.
Olivine
Chrysolite, Peridot.
Cordierite
Idocrase Axinite
Kyanite
Staurolite
Andalusite
Chiastolite.
i8
A
Sphene
Book
of Precious Stones
ChrysocoUa
Garnierite
Prehnite
Chlorastolite
Zonochlorite
Thomsonite
Lintonite
Natrolite
Cancrinite
Lapis-lazuli
Haiiynite
Sodalite
Obsidian Moldavite
Diopside,
Spodumene
(Hiddenite),
(Ghloromelanite).
Quartz.
Crystallised
quartz:
Rock-crystal,
Citrine,
Smokyen-
quartz,
Amethyst,
Rose-quartz,
Prase,
Sapphire-quartz,
Quartz with
Compact quartz:
Classifications of Stones
ian,
etc.
19
Malachite
Chessylite
Gypsum).
Fluor-spar
Apatite
Iron-pyrites
Haematite Ilmenite
Rutile
Amber
Jet In an appendix Dr. Bauer places Pearls and
Coral.
classifying gems,
their
maybe unconis
The
final
test of the
rank of gems
their
case.
The
gems distinguished
list
in
this
long
all their
summed
up.
20
A Book
of Precious Stones
gems the
to
pearl,
the
comparatively
Streeter,
common
is
coral
an appendix.
who
and
places the
this
diamond third but when he inscribed judgment " The Syndicate," which now in
;
his
of
London controls with the output the South African diamond mines the world's
city of
own
gem markets, did not exist. As Streeter was, when he wrote his Precious Stones and Gems, expensively and hazardously exploiting the famous ruby mines of Burma, he naturally
regarded the ruby as of prime importance.
Kluge's classification
is
primarily based on
point
of
the
strictly
scientific
mineralogist.
in-
while he justly
it
leads
with the
diamond, following
naming a line of gems seldom handled, concluding with " Adamantine spar," a name which some jewellers
have never heard, nor have they seen the mineral it specifies.
is
pursued
by Dr. Bauer because these several stones are alike with the ruby and the sapphire in being
Classifications of
the mineral corundum.
spinel,
Stones
21
named
and
its varieties
Exceptions
may
named by
the author
is
named,
represent
the
understanding
of
Here
it
may
fads,
and
fancies.
propounded to stone
gems? as though each kind of stone had a common price in the market, like October wheat or
steel billets.
strictly
upon
its
22
A Book
merits,
of Precious Stones
pronouncing a valuation on
takes into consideration
own
it
and
in
his keen
and
reflective
examination.
Con-
it is re-
following pages the various precious and semiprecious stones will be considered in the order
in
classifi-
CHAPTER
III
THE DIAMOND
"T^HE diamond is generally regarded as the * premier gem of the world. Solitary in its chemical composition among precious stones, it
is
is
not as
commonly known
to be.
should be and
is
supposed
common
tallised,
should be the same, save that they are uncrysas this prince of gems; yet notwithits
standing
in its
tion,
adamantine
and dispersion of
and hardness,
its
is
alone
among
is
it
minerals.
Despite
hardness, the
diamond
bon,
diamond;
air,
being car-
and
The
to
rics,
facets of a cut
24
A Book of Precious
The diamond
it
Stones
also brittle
so
ing apparel.
that
it
is
may
girdle,
by striking
may
be reduced to powder.
By what
scien-
diamond
is
unknown, but
was
The
diamond
is 3.52;
simple,
with
an
index
2.439;
high
dispersive
is
power;
tible
lustre, brilliant
adamantine;
electric,
combusby
is
though infusible;
positively,
friction
and a non-conductor of
electricity; it
light.
tallisation,
harder than
;
imperfect
crys-
crystals,
termed bort (a
word
black, shapeless,
To
is
flash of prismatic
hues
termed
The
stone's
wondrous brilliancy
The Diamond
is
25
reflection of light
from
when
at an angle of a little
degrees.
coloured specimens
the
it
is
scarcely apparent; at
stones,
Diamonds have a wide range of colour; most numerous are the whites, yellows, and browns in
a great variety of shades then come the greens
;
ex-
clusively in
among the Diamonds without tint or flaw are rare indeed and even most of the world's famous
diamonds have imperfections.
The origin of the diamond's name is the Greek word adamas, meaning unconquerable; from the same root spring our words adamant and adamantine.
The
cal mythology,
was
its
formation by Jupiter,
26
A Book of Precious
into stone a
Stones
who transformed
commanded
all
man, Diamond of
men
is
to
do
so.
The diamond
veins, in gneiss,
and
in eruptive pegmatite.
famous diamond
district
and market
of
Golconda, between
in the
now
The
of In-
Madras Presidency
nul,
Kistna,
Golconda.
The second
The Diamond
27
The
product of
until
all the
it is
now
supply.
Borneo's
fields
thousand
carats.
The basin
of
the
Kapoeas
Moun-
is
the principal
locality.
in river sands,
pans when
scales.
It
related that a
seen diamonds
No
known
mondiferous.
raes, the
Near Diamantina,
Minas Ge-
28
Book
of Precious Stones
and
prairie washings.
The
The
finest
Bagagem
Abatehe,
Dia-
weighing 247^^
was found.
Minas Geraes,
is
another important
field.
monds are
al-
diamonds was
so
recent as 1867.
the finding of the
South Africa. A Boer farmer, Daniel Jacobs, had a farm near the present town of Barkly West on the Vaal
diamond
in
Eiver.
On
many
glitter-
ing and coloured pebbles, the only playthings the Jacobs children could get; these pebbles in-
many
varieties of
The Diamond
quartz, semi-precious stones of
29
if
some value
cut
the
and marketed in
pebbles which a
far-off
little
Europe.
Among
it,
up,
to
to
see
a neighbour, Schalk van Niekirk, who asked it. The little white pebble had been
out, but the children found it in the
thrown
Van
it,
so interesting that
With a vague that the stone was unusual and had some
was given
Niekirk subsequently asked a travel-
value.
Van
it
ling trader,
John Keilly, to see if he could find was and if anybody would give any money for it. Several merchants in Hopetown and in Colesberg examined it, said it was pretty, and one thought it might be a topaz, but none would give a penny for it. Eeilly might have
out what
it
thrown
away but
thought
it
was a diamond.
local apothecary,
30
Book
of Precious Stones
stone,
bet
Commissioner
topaz.
for determination to
Cape Colony,
to
W. Guybon
it
Atherstone, at Grahamstown,
lightly valued that,
it
and
town
was so
save a
and
is
worth
five
hundred pounds.
files in
It has
Grahamstown,
and where that came from there must be lots more. Can I send it to Mr. Southey, Colonial
Secretary? "
Upon
Dr.
Atherstone's
report
Sir
Philip
Wodehouse, the Governor at the Cape, bought the rough diamond at Dr. Atherstone's valuation,
to the Paris
Exposition, where
great sensation.
tined
to
Thus a
revolutionise
the
world's
was desdiamond
map and the history of South and place the regulation of the price of the diamond in the hands of a London syndicate.
trade, alter the
Africa,
The Diamond
The news
in the of the discovery set
to
3^
Boer farmers
Vaal valley
but
was ten months before a second diamond was found, and this was on a spot thirty miles away,
on the bank of the river below the junction of
the Vaal and Orange rivers.
weigrh-
Orange Eiver.
diamond
for
nearly
$55,000
to
Lilienfeld
Brothers of Hopetown, and Earl Dudley later bought this gem, now the famous " Star of
diamond-hunting
became
more
The
the
first sys-
digging
and
sifting
of
alluvial
from
at Maritz-
32
Book
of Precious Stones
The
sys-
and
also
was joined by two experienced Ausnamed Glenie and King, by a trader, named Parker, who, like
diamonds
river
the Australians, had already been attracted to the locality by the reports of the
found.
They
then
toiled
for
many days
river
without
they
followed
the
twenty
miles
down
on January
7,
1870, they
first
small
the
new
field.
of diamond:
hunters.
toiled and
De
Klerk, a Boer
valley
ON THE FLOORS LOADING BLUE EARTH FOR THE WASHING MACHINES, KIMBERLEY MINES
The Diamond
33
in
an ordinary
wire
fine
Soon after, in Sepmore remarkable discovery of diamonds was made at Dutoitspan, on the farm
fifty carats.
diamond of
tember, a
still
diamond seeking merged into diamond mining, the diggers penetrating the ground many feet and finding the best stones
of Pniel; here
made open cuts instead of sinking shafts. The army of diamond seekers spread over the adjoining ground, and early in the year 1871 diamonds
were found at Bulfontein, and early in
on
May
De
diamond miners
to
see
of prospectors there
34
Book
of Precious Stones
now
world-
From
whole history
ably
illus-
of South African
Gardner F. Wilof
Diamond Mines
South Africa.
eral
manager
the
De Beers
Consolidated
known
capa-
upon
this im-
gem
history.
re-
conciled
human
for
elements, to which
management which,
production
and marketing,
in
is
not
the
least
the
diamond
South Africa.
The
history of
all
on the Vaal, cannot be told here; but the modern methods of extracting the rough diamonds
in
,.:
,*/'
-mfrf
^'
The Diamond
encased for ages
is
35
automatically
in trucks
wire rope and impelled by steam to the depositing floors on the receiving grounds, which are
if
The De Beers
mine
floors are
floor
full
holds
load
In this
lie
monds,
for,
monds may be as
seen one.
walnuts,
persons
carried
and
hast-
Eain accelerates
drought
retards
this
it.
weathering
process
and
The blue
pul-
36
Book
of Precious Stones
dition of a heavy
summer
rainfall,
while the
re-
De Beers
the
earth
About
five
per cent, of
De Beers mine
blue ground
is intractable;
removed
to be reduced
by crushers and
rolls in the
method commonly
thoroughly
dis-
When
is
hauled to the
first
washing machines
concentration.
to enter the
stage of
the
them goes through chutes into a revolving cylinder perforated with holes one and one quarter
inches in
crushing
rolls.
way
around by revolving arms, tipped with wedgeshaped teeth, on a vertical shaft, which forces
the diamonds and other heavy minerals to the
mud
is
which
it is
The
The Diamond
to the pulsator,
sizes,
37
sifted into five
five
eighths of
cyl-
Upon
and
coarser
sizes
is
spread,
prevents
the
deposit
from
through
of the
to
the sorting
tailing heap.
But one per cent, of the total amount of blue ground washed goes to the pulsator, and fiftyeight per cent, of this flows over the jigs as
waste.
Numerous experiments were unsuccessfully made to effect the separation of the diamonds from the worthless concentrates in a less tedious and expensive way than sorting them by hand, when a De Beers employee, Fred
Kirsten, suggested coating a shaking or percussion table with grease;
and
38
A
all
while
else
would flow
improved
off
with water as
tables
tailings.
The
shaking
now
and while a
of the
almost to the last diamond; so that this invention is practically as certain in its accomplish-
ments
as
the
human
eye
high
specific
gravity
and hardness.
of
The
grease,
about
the
consistency
axle
grease,
by
soda.
The quantity
of
deposit
(diamonds)
which
From
escort
of
of6.ce
under an armed
and delivered
diamond
the
department. These experts diamonds of extraneous matter by boiling them in a mixture of nitric and hydroclean
chloric acids, or in fluoric acid.
the
When
cleaned
The Diamond
39
in parcels
if
fully told, is
of
Formerly
buyers,
who
repre-
diamond merchants
of the
the
is
now
the
medium through which both the product of the De Beers and the Premier mines exclusively
reach the markets of the different nations of
the world.
The daily production of diamonds is put away accumulated about fifty thousand carats of De Beers and Kimtwo sources
ac-
The
sorters separate
and
classify
1,
them for
Close goods;
4,
Spotted stones;
5,
3,
Eejection cleavage;
6,
Fine
cleavage;
Light-brown cleavage;
cleavage;
7,
Ordinary
8,
and rejection
Flats;
Naats;
"
40
9,
Book
10,
of Precious Stones
In the language of the
" Spotted
Eubbish;
Bort.
stones
stones are those seriously depreciated by spots. " Flats " Cleavage " means broken stones.
are
flat
crystals formed
by the distortion
of
crystals
octahedral crystallisation; and flat triangular twin stones are " maacles." The re-
now valuable
carbo-
The
first
according to shades,
Only
the
first
grade
is
The
ten
into
little
number
of
The Diamond
weights and values are recorded.
41
The buyers for the syndicate of Holborn Viaduct and Hatton Garden, diamond importers of London, pay for their diamonds at the De Beers Company's South African diamond office in cash or bills
of
exchange on London.
Upon
the buyers
sort
hundred and
fifty to
each in a specially
made paper
a description of
its contents,
boxes and these are securely wrapped in clothlined packing paper, carefully sealed
livered to the post-office,
and
de-
to
surance
classify
The
syndicate's
buyers
follows:
shaped goods
Pure goods. Brown goods, Spotted goods, Flatall completely formed or crys-
tallised stones;
Pure
Brown
or
stones;
cleavage
broken or
Naats
not
Maacles
flat
Eejections
or
Bort
diamonds
adapted to
used
42
stones.
Book
of Precious Stones
classes of these are sub-
The higher
sizes.
When
who have
sale,
The
selling
The
dilSerent interests
on a certain date.
market
and
to
make
when a
is
expected,
When
man
is
admitted
The Diamond
43
about the
ac-
purchase
the
best.
The
finest
quality,
the
stones of the
purest
water,
are
American establishments
in a
way
to satisfy
who demand
waste in
gardless
the
here.
of
diamond-cutting.
Even
sterdam in Holland.
appeared in Europe
town
of
Bruges
where it was initiated by the Dutch lapidary, Ludwig van Berquen, who invented his particular process in the year 1476 was afterward
After a struggle
Amsterdam became
although
it
the chief
44
Book
of Precious Stones
it,
even in Eu-
Max Bauer
Amsterdam comprised seventy establishments equipped with modern appliances with steam as
motive-power; the industry gave employment
to twelve
grinding machines
in all
diamond
city
about seven
jewellers
whose interest
diamond
Cologne.
city,
Amsterdam's
had
much
and polishing industry and making it one of the world's two greatest diamond markets some rough diamonds deposited in an Amsterdam
;
collateral for
officials,
a loan were
to be cut.
One
in-
why diamond-cutting
as an
is
dustry
is
firmly established in
Europe
that
The Diamond
there banks
lateral.
45
as col-
the sixteenth
Antwerp by Spain.
The population
Am-
was 551,415 and it is now the chief Dutch money market, the home of the Bank of The Netherlands, the diamond-polishing and cutting industry and cobalt blue manufactories being The principal its main industrial interests. square of the city is the " Dam," and canals and well-shaded streets help to make the city picturesque. Places to see in Amsterdam are
the Royal
Museum, which houses some interesting evidences of Dutch industries as well as much There are some exhibits of historical material. jewelry, gold and silver plate, and art metal
work that prove interesting
foreign jeweller.
to
the
visiting
But
46
A
an
Book
of Precious Stones
diamond
trade,
is
environed
length,
buildings
The many incongruities here include the existence of a dominant spirit, a species of the genus boss, an untitled ruler
office buildings.
of the
diamond
trade,
who
is
a character worthy
a description by Dickens.
A New York diamond merchant dam was strolling through the city's
this
at Amsterstreets with
gentleman
bulletin
"
the
American.
"A
what
is it?
" impatiently
demanded
is
the
Lane.
Why,
burned
The Diamond
up; when you Americans do anything you
tainly always do
it
47
cer-
the admiring
Amsterdammer.
Amsterdam
diamonds
as they are in
London.
After
the
are
cut,
and
There
is
together.
The
space
is
meeting of
for
men
they
are clamouring
admittance.
When
view
the
mer-
who
sees
offer;
upon
in
envelope with
the
it
offer
made by
this
the
to
buyer written
upon
and submits
in
selling
the
he does accept
it,
and
had usurped the feminine privilege of changeing his mind, he will find that he must make
good his
offer or suffer a legal penalty,
which
dia-
The
48
Book
of Precious Stones
mond
brokers of
Amsterdam
seller
receiy/^
a commis-
and buyer.
diamond
dealers
to
memorandum "
for leisurely
of
gem
diamond,
destined
to
become
the
In this
connection
it
may
pennyweights
must submit
as,
to having it rest
for example,
when
it
Parliament.
the
rests in
Tower
ditions
from the Cullinan Diamond, two thousand eight hundred and eighteen diamonds and
pearls,
besides
many
Before
The Diamond
its eclipse
49
gem ornamenting
famous gem
is
in a
which previously
existed.
scrutiny
of
officers
were on November
Majesties,
1,
King Edward and Queen Alexandra, at Windsor Castle by Mr. Joseph Asscher of the Amsterdam firm which successfully cut the
famous
land
stone.
Two
secret service
men
of the Hol-
Yard
detectives,
50
Book
of Precious Stones
In the following
dia-
mond
when
cutters
it
was decided
mond
Amsterdam to be cut; the great distinction was conferred upon the house of J. Asscher & Co., of Amsterdam and Paris, whose
to
"fabriek," or factory
is
in the
Tulp Straat or
of to
" Tol-straat,"
as
it
is
sometimes written,
Holland's capital.
the
Amsterdam firm in January, 1908, where months it was kept in the vault, of which the walls of concrete and steel are over
for nine
two
feet thick.
split
On February
was
& Nephews,
in
values was
in
involved.
first
cleft
two
ROOM WHERE THE CULLINAN DIAMOND WAS CUT AND POLISHED, AMSTERDAM, HOLLAND
The Diamond
pieces
51
in
on each piece of
was
to
Washington
dia-
Before
the
operator
were
crystal
a manner.
diamond so far as could be indicated in such In the incision made by the dia-
mond saw a
specially
made
steel knife,
comb
and breathlessly
its
in doubt, all
saw the
again
steel
the
52
Book
in
of Precious Stones
two parts, divided exactly as
diamond
fell
1977%
carats.
The larger piece was successfully divided late February, after which the grinding and polishing continued until November. The Lonin
now
divided as follows:
(1)
pendeloque or drop brilliant, weighing 5161/^ carats, dimensions, 2.322 inches long and 1.791 inches broad; (2) a square brilliant, weighing 309 3/18 carats, 1.771 inches long by 1.594 broad; (3) a pendeloque, weighing 92 carats; (4) a square brilliant, 62 carats; (5) a heart-shaped brilliant, 18% carats; (6) a marquise brilliant, lli/^ carats; (7) a marquise brilliant, 8 9/16 carats; (8) a square brilliant, 6% carats; (9) a pendeloque, 4 9/32 carats; (10) 96 brilliants, weighing 7% carats; and (11) a quantity of unpolished "ends," sleighing 9 carats. The first and second of these stones are by far the largest in existence. Even the second is much bigger than the largest previously known brilliant, viz., the Jubilee, weighing 239 carats, while beside
either of
them
so
sinks
into
comparative
since
its
The Diamond
weight,
larger.
53
102%
carats, is little
of that of
Moreover,
the
stones
not more
dis-
All of them,
from the biggest to the smallest, are absolutely without flaw and of the finest extra blue-white
colour existing.
As regards the two largest, an innovation was made in the manner of cutting. Normally a brilliant has 58 facets.
mense size of the two largest Cullinan brilliants, it was determined to have an increased number, and to give the first 74 facets and the second 66. This decision has been abundantly vindicated by the results, for the stones exhibit the most marvellous This fact is brilliancy that diamonds can show. all the more remarkable and satisfactory because very large brilliants are apt to be somewhat dull and deficient in fire.
This monumental diamond was found Janu-
mine No. 2
of the
While mak-
he perceived that
it
was undoubtedly a
it
company's
S4
office
A Book
of Precious Stones
realised.
and its importance was quickly The stone was weighed and found to
register
exactly
3253%
carats.
diamond had been discovered. The stone was christened " The CuUinan Diamond " after Mr. T. N. CuUinan, the chairman of the Premier
(Transvaal)
stance of
Diamond Company.
At
the
in-
Edward VII.
constitution
stated,
the
Transvaal
rough,
Colony.
As
the
diamond,
weighed 3253%
one-half
carats,
same stone are still in To one who was not familiar with diamonds the great diamond nearly resembled
the mines.
a piece of
because
ice.
The occurrence
it
of this stone is
interesting
was
in
at
Diamonds had,
The Diamond
55
vial and in pipes at Eietfontein, near Pretoria. The properties of the Transvaal Mining Com-
pany,
now
discovered in
1898, as
with the
mines at Kimberley.
that
it
had been
it
two years
when
of
record diamond.
The Boer
the
War
During the
After
The new Premier mines are discussed by Mr. Gardner F. Williams in his The Diamond Mines of South Africa, in which he expresses doubt
that the rich alluvial diggings which resulted
of blue ground.
Al-
number
of loads of
it
ground sent
to
the
washing machines,
is
56
Book
of Precious Stones
statis-
based was
not.
eleven
The average value of the diamonds per carat for months was 27s. 4d. The quality of the diamonds in the Pretoria District is poor, the percentage of bort and rubbish being abnormally great. Valued on the same basis, diamonds from the Pretoria District are worth only about fiftyfour per cent, of those from De Beers and Kimberley mines.
It is
in
diamond-seeking.
The premises
of
Mr.
Wilper-
Transvaal mines
to
the
latter,
new Premier mines; which, after all, have duced a single gem that outshines anything
the Kimberley mines ever produced.
pro-
that
Until
its
of the Cullinan
The Diamond
57
in the Jagersfontein
The lucky Kaffir who was rewarded with about $2500 in money, and a horse equipped with a saddle and bridle. The rough stone weighed 971% carats, measured two and one-half inches in length, two inches in breadth, and one inch in thickness. Like the Cullinan Diamond, its predecessor
its
becoming a
as the
single
gem;
this
it
in the centre
it,
which made
necessary to cleave
The
larger portion
was
cut into an absolutely perfect brilliant, weighing 239 international carats of 205 milligrams
five-eighths
inches in
and three-eighths in breadth, and The Excelsior-Jubilee is a blue-white stone of the purest water and in all
one inch in depth.
its qualities
approximates perfection.
This dia-
weight and
size,
in
the
is
rough,
was the
" Great
Mogul
"
which
supposed to have
of this stone
weighed
is
787%
carats.
The history
references to
in
58
Book
of Precious Stones
is
well illustrated
fine
diamond
qualities, the
New York
in
authority on
an
interest-
way about
rative as authentic:
The Pitt Diamond, afterward called the " Regent," was found by a slave in the Parteal mines, on the Kistua in India, in the year 1701. The story goes
that, to secure his treasure, calf of his leg
and concealed
itself,
in the
wound
As
cut,
is,
The
and also for the peace of mind of his confidant, he met an English skipper whom he trusted with his secret. It is said he ofifered the diamond to the mariner in return for his liberty, which was to be secured by the skipper carrying him to a free country. But it seems probable that he supplemented this with a money condition as well,
treatment of the poor devoid of reason as it is of humanity. The English skipper, professing to accept the slave's proposals, took him on board his ship, and having obtained possession of the gem, flung
skipper's
otherwise
creature
the
is
as
The Diamond
the slave
into the sea.
59
He
diamond to a prominent dealer for a thousand pounds sterling, squandered the money in dissipation, and finally, in a fit of delirium tremens and remorse, hanged himself. The dealer sold it in February, 1702, to Thomas Pitt, Governor of Fort St. George, and greatWilliam
grandfather of the illustrious English statesman, Pitt, for the sum of 20,400. Pitt had the stone cut and polished at a cost of 5000, but the
c'eavage and dust obtained in the cutting returned
him the handsome sum of 15,000. In 1717 he Duke of Orleans, Regent of France, during the minority of King Louis XV., for the Bum of 135,000; so that he must have netted a profit of nearly 125,000 on his venture. Later, in the inventory of the French crown jewels, drawn up in 1791, it was valued at 12,000,000 francs, or |2,400,000. Soon afterwards,
to sold it to the
it
One
on a promise of a
full
turned informer.
The recovery of the " Regent " is claimed to have helped to put the first Napoleon upon the throne of France, by having enabled him, through pledging it to the Dutch government, to raise sufficient
funds to make a success of the Marengo campaign. Since its redemption from the Dutch government it has served as an ornament in the pommel of the First Emperor's sword, and has ever been the most
"
6o
A
now
Book
gem
of Precious Stones
conspicuous
It
the Louvre, Paris. Though a rich and valuable treasure, the " Pitt or " Regent " has unquestionably been the cause of
joy.
holder to a watery grave, the second to the rope, and the third, which consisted of several, to the guillotine;
though
it
is
field
is in
Germany's
Africa,
colonial
if it
it
southwest
and
Fatherland
will be
warmly welcomed
the
as a
many's exploitation
of
region
has
cost,
warring
natives.
The new
field
is
remarkable feature
Twelve
of
as a gift to
sent
sub-
The Diamond
jects,
6i
the colonists.
The output
will
German government.
is
The
an-
nual product
carats.
is
The syndicate
of
posed
representatives
leading
German
Kohnanskop group.
is
The
last
is
of
conall
trolled
by Englishmen.
agreed that
payment
will
establish a
arrangements have been made to German diamond market. It seems improbable that either Hanau or Frankfort will
No
be considered.
all
the
62
Book
of Precious Stones
requirements.
whether
it will
was assured by a representative of the Berlin Commercial Co. that Hanau would obtain its share. At present the cutting establishments
of that city can cut 5000 carats a month, but
number cannot be increased without great both skilled cutters and establishments are lacking. The expectation is that the
this
difficulty, as
syndicate
will
work hand
in
hand with
the
London
syndicate.
CHAPTER IV
EMERALDS
CMERALD
is
now but a
and
semi-precious stones
trade,
not,
in
tlie
jewelry
mineral.
is
gem
Beryl, of
In the view of
is
accorded to
;
they are
Brazilian-tourmaline,
olivine,
net.
Congo-dioptase, Evening-
Oriental-corundum,
and
Uralian-gar-
The green
variously
the
other
One
is
of
the
rarest of
gems
is
The
crystallisation
the
beryl
in
the
hexagonal system, usually long, and often having the prism faces more or less deeply striated
63
64
A Book of Precious
The
specific
2.73,
Stones
vertically.
usually 2.69 to
fracture
uneven
green
to
conchoidal;
lustre
vitreous,
sometimes resinous.
emerald
to
Beryl
colours
pale
include
pale
green,
wine and
citrine yelis
low, white,
and pale
distinct,
rose-red.
Pleochrism
unusually
emerald especially, which through the dichroiscope reveals two different shades of green.
and davidsonite.
The
differences are
principally in colour.
Beryl
is
There
is
some variation
beryl
in beryl
from different
localities; the
67.85; alumina,
17.95; beryllia,
An
rine from
Adun-Ohalon
in Siberia
by Penfield
'^
J w H A O ^
Emeralds
resulted
in:
silica,
65
alumina,
20.39;
66.17;
water, 1.14,
and a trace
of
litliia.
discovered,
hydrofluoric
acid.
and
fuses,
difficulty, at the
edges
crystals,
is
The
strong
lustre
and
styled
fine
is
body-colour.
;
The
beryl.
the emerald
the pale
are
precious
or
noble
Aquamarine
ish-blue;
is pale-blue,
bluish-green, or yellowis
called
The dichroism
eties of beryl
usually
suffices
to
clearly
from any
imitations.
curious characteristic
is
by no
66
tioDS
A
may
in layers the layers are usually perpendicular to the faces of the prisms.
in
gem
are due in
gem
of
ap-
proximating
perfection
occurs.
Most
the
but also
of
to
infinitesimally
small
fluid
en-
closures
solid,
foreign
matter,
either
or
When
clouded
by
fissures
emeralds
are
called
by jewellers
" mossy."
erald-beryl
fully, as
much
and more
than a diamond
or thereabouts,
that while
is,
that they bring fancy prices out of all proportion to their size.
fit
beryl
Tradition
and
phenomenally
actually
known
Duke
of
Devonshire; this
ing
a natural
crystal, measur-
Emeralds
67
out a fault.
This
fine stone
was found
Colombia,
South
Czar of Russia;
measurements are
centimetres in
diameter.
lapidary decides
an emerald.
Small
while the large ones are sometimes cut as a simple table stone, or
brilliant facets
more generally
step-cut with
Cut gems
of good colour
in
them,
fissured
or
stones
were
mounted
As natural crystals of beryl are large the gems are often extracted from the mass by expert and skilful artisans who saw the
blackened.
crystals into the desirable sizes.
to be
for.
68
Book
it is
unique geo-
primary
it
situation, that
is,
in the rock in
which
was
formed.
tic
It is
of
crystalline
and
is
frequently
found embedded in mica schists and similar The magnificent beryls found at Muzo, rocks.
Colombia, however, are an exception; there the
Emeralds
are
never
found
in
gem
and
rubies, sapphires,
of the emerald
was
Ethi-
unknown.
From upper
came the
There
is
first
emeralds of historic
that
the
commerce.
a supposition
first
introduced commercially
to the seventeenth cen-
found before
and Herculaneum.
on
an
expedition
organised
by
Emeralds
Mehemet Ali Pasha the implements found
;
69
there
B.C.).
Ancient inscriptions
tell
and
Mehemet
Ali,
is
supposed because
up.
The Spanish conquistadores found magnificent emeralds in the treasure of both Peru and
now found
in those coun-
of
existence in Europe,
was sent
in
to
the
new world
Colombia or
the
found
was
from
in
New Granada;
perhaps the
gems
The Spaniards
March
3,
1537,
70
at the
Book
of Precious Stones
from
same
now
although
stones
have been
found there by these modern emerald miners. Muzo, where the present supply of the world's
finest
emeralds
is
mined,
is
of the Rio
Magdalena
local-
found
in the
about
fifty
chrysoberyl,
is
found.
The
in-
grass-green beryl
also found in
an almost
most notable
locality at
Stony Point
green
transparent,
translucent,
to
and even
inexpert,
in-
opaque
stones,
complicates,
the
was long assumed that emeralds came from Brazil and green stones were called " Brazilian emeralds."
There
is
no authentic proof
"
Emeralds
that a true emerald
71 in Brazil,
and
it is
there
account
emerald
myth.
There
a cus-
tom
with
an
is
explanatory
prefix.
;
emerald
green corundum
North Carolina.
"Emerald-copper"
is
dioptase,
Among
de-
name
of
and dioptase.
all
and
all
can
gem
expert.
OHAPTBE V
THE PBAEL
TN
*
its
purity,
liquid
beauty,
and charm
its
of
aristocrat
gems
leads
even
peers of
and sapphire.
all
From
land
that
may
The
exist-
The
dis-
The
Pearl
of
'jz
North America
then
is
cherished
before
the
Western
said to
who knows
how
most ancient decipherable and translatable writings extant is the pearl, questioned, because the
and
its identity is
un-
gem
among
all the
jewels and
is
advance in
stantly becoming
mixed
in the
minds
of men.
From
and we hear
of
of
them
and disseminator
what he believed
everything in nature,
later
who
in his volumi-
technical
literature
of
the
is
United
coldly
States National
Museum, the
pearl
74
Book
of Precious Stones
and remorselessly comprehended under the generic term "carbonate of lime" along with the beautiful but less valued coral, which is also a
product of the sea; and marble, which concerns architects and sculptors, more than gem fanciers;
and
calcite
seems almost
lustrous
pearl
like
reduce
the
of
peerless beauty
tions
to
associa-
the
mineralogical
base
of
requirements
of
the
mineralogists
conserved.
An
The
and membrane.
The
some pearls
exists only
on the surface;
be dull and the
may
inner lustrous.
The
The
is 2.5
Pearl
75
The shape
is
varies
great.
size
and weight
in
commerce
collection
is less
known
in
in
the
at
Beresford
Hope
the
Its
Museum
length
is
South
Kensington,
London.
a half inches.
grains).
(1818
is
con-
colour
and
and
seviri-
descent.
The
was formed.
of the pearl, in brief,
depend upon colour, texture, or " skin " transparency or " water," lustre, and form ; pearls
The queen
unrivalled lustre.
It
76
Book
of Precious Stones
may
and value are not immutable; pearls may deteriorate with age or be sullied by the action
of
gases,
vapours,
or
acids,
should
be
carefully
wiped
have been
in a similar
nacreous
shells,
is de-
and
Mytilidse.
The
In-
is
a family of conchi-
a wedge-shaped
silky-looking fibres.
The distribution
of these
molluscs
" In
is
world-wide.
ages,
all
pearls
The
insignia of rank
Pearl
77
among
writes
Pearl.
W.
westward the
and
as Eome's
power and
affluence
and became
identified
new products
precious
stones,
or
for
within the
new
The world's
is
names
It
of
some
of
authori-
The strand
is
78
A Book of Precious
Stones
its
possessor |400,000.
CHAPTEE
BITBIBS
VI
LTHOUGH
we
place
tlie
**
when a
more
name
and
to
all
coloured
precious
stones,
gems
commonly or even
trade
occa-
sionally
called
and
compre-
beyond
Corundum
8o
tern
A
in
Book
of Precious Stones
prisms
six-sided
and pyramids,
the
and rounded;
to vitreous;
pearly on
is
the
basal
exhibited
is
Corundum
is
or
same
colours.
Like
its
dum
of
precious
to
the
In chemistry, corundum
Natural corundum
is
probably never
ele-
When
foreign
matter
is
Rubies
is
8i although
of
impossible for
gem
purposes,
inferior
great value
industrially;
translucent
used
in
being the
common compact
black emery
A
hue
was
as
follows:
alumina,
97.32;
iron
ex-
The
tent to
its fine,
yet
plain,
in
determining
gem
marked
crystal-
1.89;
and
of
silica,
0.80;
in
all,
100.20.
in
The forms
the
82
A Book of Precious
Stones
Although corundum
in
is
it
point of hardness,
closely
approached much
it
more
in
approaches the
specific
gravity
and
makes the
it
ing
from
other
stones
both
easy
and
important.
The
blowpipe.
Corundum, by
tricity,
friction,
it
which
retains for
some
but
time.
The
lustre of
qualities
corundum and
in
its fire
approach these
the
lustre
it is
is
the
diamond,
very durable.
Corundum
is
optically uniaxial
and strongly doubly refracting, but the dispersion produced is slight and it is, therefore,
incapable
of
emitting
flashes
of
prismatic
Coloured corundum
Rubies
the
83
dichroism.
more pronounced
tlie
con-
corundum gems
as by daylight.
"Oriental."
are:
The arbitrary names and colours Euby ("Oriental ruby"), red; Sapphire
sapphire"),
blue;
("Oriental
Leuco-sapphire
bluish-green
" Oriental
em-
erald," green
green ;
" Oriental
yellow ;
" Oriental
hyacinth,"
violet.
The
colour-varieties of
in irregular grains
and as
These
and uncovering
of such rocks,
84
Book
of Precious Stones
in the debris in
Ked corundum
and
to
is
supposed to be identical
Middle
The
colour-tone
of
the
ruby
varies greatly,
of deep, intense
a delicate pink
is
frequently
The desired tone in ruby colour was so aptly compared by the Burmese to the blood of a freshly-killed pigeon
discernible in these shades.
is
the accepted
ruby gems. The colouring is not always uniform, there sometimes occurring alternate layers of colours and colourless stone;
costliest
when
it
heated,
The ruby does not lose its colour and hence it is assumed that the
is
colouring matter
probably due
to a trace of
graduated increase
Rubies
of heat will not fracture the stone,
85
which upon
The ruby
is it
seen,
and in cutting
it
this
must be taken
largest facet
the
surface
ruby
is
one of
garnet,
its
certain
from
spinel,
ruby
cat's-eye.
in
diamonds
definitely
are
common.
indicate
what a
market, yet
fine
Kunz appraised a
ruby of
86
Book
of Precious Stones
and Mr. E. W.
author,
Streeter,
London
jeweller
and
records
The common
clearness
silk,
;
faults
of
rubies
are
lack
of
and
fissures
and
From
also,
The
centre
is
the
town
of
of
Mandalay.
The mining
district ranges
from
feet
thousand
altitude,
above
sea-level,
this
ropeans.
in
The principal mines are in two valleys which are the towns of Kathay and Kyatpyen. Eubies and the minerals with which they are
Rubies
87
the
calcite,
its
but in
call
an
adjacent
ground,
which
the
miners
gem
out;
in
the neighbouring
alluvium are
Prior
Burma became
work was taken up first by an Anglo-Italian and then by an English company, which paid
the Indian
Government
Siam has long produced corundum rubies, but gems are usually darker and inferior to the The beautiful clear red stones from Burma.
the
company.
able
and Australia.
88
Book
of Precious Stones
Montana
Corundum
artificial
chapter.
called
vari-
which chemically
is
closely allied
to
corundum
"
jewelry trade
so
called
in
the
diais
is
mond-bearing
described in
the garnet.
rock
its
South
Africa,
and
proper place
the
chapter on
the ruby by dealers, or mistakenly called rubies, are red tourmaline, or rubellite, called " Siberian
hyacinth or jacinth, which is zircon, and is described in the chapter on " Semi-Precious Stones
Occasionally Used."
Spinel has perhaps a wider
Rubies
but
it will
89
the
ruby.
Spinel
is
practically
of
alumina,
chief
The
red
almandine ruby.
The nasuffice
its
name
" pomegranate."
A
to
slight
distinguish
spinel
distant relative,
less
Spinel
is
Mohs
and
its
about
3.6.
It crystallises in
in the
form of octahedrons.
singly refracting,
infusible
will cause
corundum doubly.
Spinel
is
it
before
it
to
hue, so that
it
might
With-
gem
minerals.
corundum
it
has
its
own
an
inclusion in the
company
90
Book
of Precious Stones
ruby
is
not
corundum
Burma.
Spinel
quantity in
Balakschan,
Afghanistan, near the River Oxus; the name " Balas ruby " is probably derived from Beloochistan, otherwise Balakschan.
CHAPTEE
VII
THE SAPPHIEB
QAPPHIEE,
^
is
of constancy, truth,
it is
and
virtue.
ruby,
generally applied to
A
is,
dum
in
that occasionally
light
differs
its
colour effect by
that
artificial
from
manifested
less
bril-
natural
light,
being
generally
liant.
ental
cient
stones
and
ancient
names
differ
but
slightly
the
languages,
Chaldean,
word
is
derived.
shades female.
Higher
specific gravity
91
92
of
Book
of Precious Stones
in
colour,
are
generally
included
in
the
corundum in the foregoing chapter, covering the red corundum and other red stones termed rubies. While the form of the
description of
tallisation; the
agonal pyramid.
is
and some-
when
it
the stone
is
heated, such
becomes a clear
white sapphire.
The colours
of sapphire range
gem
sapphire.
Sometimes
The Sapphire
One famous
head
is
93
sapphire
sage,
is
Confucius;
the
Sapphires
many shades
darkest,
of blue as can be
named.
termed
The
very
;
almost
black,
is
not
disadvantages,
is
the the
flower "
the
choicest.
flower" colour, tones and tints are indicated by such adjectives as " Berlin," " smalt," " greyish,"
The dichroism
if
it,
of
the
sapphire
is
violet.
The
In
artificial light
some
come darker,
purple,
or,
or
violet
Asterias
or
star-
94
Book
of Precious Stones
in the
when
it
is
gi-
or
" Oriental
are
never
transparent
throughout,
closures
of
and
their
cloudiness,
due to
or
en-
minute tabular
crystals,
sets,
is
tiny
believed
manner has
Sapphires
being
more
common
than
Sapphires are found in about the same mineral situations as rubies, predominating in
localities as rubies
some
do in others.
mined in
different
localities.
Himalaya Mountains,
Australia,
in
the
gem-gravels
of
and
in
Montana
Siam produces most of the sapphires marketed and those of the best quality. Mines at Bo Pie Rin in Battambang, Siam, yield five-eighths of
the
world's
sapphire
product.
The sapphire
The Sapphire
there
is
95
The " mines " are small rough pits, the clay is washed away from the excavated mass, and the sapphire picked out of
feet of the surface.
the residue.
at
Cowee Creek
where
lina,
fine crystals
olivine-rock.
The sapphires
field of
Montana are
Bohemia
in
finest
blue
tourmaline
blue spinel.
nite,
(" indicolite")
blue
topaz;
and
haiiy-
To
this list
;
might be added
and aquamarine
all of these
sapphire,
and
CHAPTER
VIII
THE AMETHYST
'X'HE amethyst is a species of quartz that is * now of more artistic than intrinsic value.
The native beauty
putable.
of the purple stone
it is indis-
In folklore
month
and mythological,
it is
also used
The amethyst
is
it is
the
many ways
it
is
timental interest.
The Amethyst
From
and
97
and
Life.
the ring
Edward
the Confessor
There
is
nymph was
who
wooing of
amethyst.
and metamorphosed
baffled,
into
of
an
his
Bacchus,
love,
in
memory
vanished
vow
how
In medieval
many
upon the purple stone that hung as a protective charm beside his rosary. The amerelied also
and also
storms
7
and
The association
of
the
98
amethyst
long,
sacerdotal
the
things or
is
old
and
gem,
for
is
pious
episcopal
especial dignity
and
Eoman
Church.
who
is
The word amethyst owes its root to the Greek word amethustos, meaning not drunken, and also construed to mean a remedy for drunkenness.
it
prevented intoxication
it
because
it
did not
reach, although
wine.
crys-
called by
Its colour,
which
is
a clear pur-
ple or bluish-violet,
called violet-quartz.
and
therefore sometimes
is
The amethyst
of all deto so
tint
Not always
uniin
to
some crystals shades gradually from dark. The dark reddish-purple colour
highly prized ing
its
;
most
it
too, of hold-
value under
light,
circumstances, for in an
if
artificial
especially
containing yellow
The Amethyst
rays,
99
violet
lose
their
colour
grey.
light,
thus
beautiful.
and
ment
of
woman's discrimination
For
thysts
mounted
favour.
colour,
transparent and
throughout
di-
uniform in hue.
Mohs
to
is
scale of
is
2.6
2.7.
The
of
this
quartz
in
six-sided
Lustre vitre-
doubly
refractive,
the
loo
The
(melaphyre)
are
the
hiding
places
of
some
Gem
amethysts
Ceylon.
Other
localities are
Crys-
Bay on
Lake Superior.
The
crystals
are
highly
there.
now because
of its scarcity.
it
Be-
impose upon
excepting
gem
experts.
QUARTZ CRYSTALS
The Amethyst
owned by Queen Charlotte
at $10,000, might not
loi
of England, valued
now
be worth intrinsically
violet colour of
$500.
mand
and
grow.
Of
all
the market to-day, the Siberian stones so far outclass all competitors in richness
of their
and depth
se-
su-
perior
their
quality
that,
comparatively
is
not
much
is
the
man
to
CHAPTER IT
OOEAL
/^^ORAL
^-^
tation,
and as an
article of
commerce, from
Popular
always been
especially
in the
the most
it
those
who gather
anxiously seeking
new
is
sources of supply.
At
the
demand
for
it is
Coral
tially
is
essen-
carbonate of lime.
by a family of zoophytes, gelatinous marine animals (not insects as is too often written) called
polyps.
The coral
it is
is
of the skin;
Coral
like the
103
is
not built
is
popularly
The
pits or depressions
on a branch
of coral represent
Coral
is
common
sub-
all
around the
gem
and
Sicilian coasts.
highly favoured.
of the
group Alcyonaria.
foot to
as
is
human
The branches seldom exceed a foot in length and an inch in diameter. A curious
skull.
characteristic of coral
is,
that
it
grows always
at
perpendicular,
or
approximately,
it is
right
attached
downward,
of a rock.
if
its
foothold
is
I04
Book
of Precious Stones
to one
The colonies are usually from sixty hundred feet beneath the sea's surface.
Some
bank
is
one of which
is finished
first
bank
yields full-sized
New
Many
beds
there
much
Signor Mon-
made
buys the
market.
is Italy,
where
thousand employees.
and the
coral-
working industries.
The coral-workers
pierce
and string
Coral
sizes.
105
spherical or egg-shaped
The handicraft
many natural
ful cameos.
objects
The
pelle de angelo;
or ariscuro.
The
to
specific
is
2.6
2.7;
is
hardness in
soft
Coral
enough
worked with
it is
file,
edged
tools,
and on a lathe;
too soft
to take
larity
pany
is
its
sustains
its
beauty,
and
highly
But
little coral,
comparatively,
is
mounted
in
demand
in the country
where
it
appears in the
jewelry trade.
is
io6
Book
of Precious Stones
incredible
sums
for
exceptionally
fine
coral
two thousand
was valued
is
sand
dollars.
wearing of coral
evil
est personal
larly, it is in evidence
among
of
Italians
in
the
United
States.
Coral
is
de-
Eed gypsum
cious coral,
is
and simple
it
under which
effervesce.
Celluloid is
coral.
as
a substitute for
The existence
of
coral
United
Coral
States,
107
an American book.
The
fossil,
a high
The colour
relics
of
buttons,
and paper
1900,
weights.
reports
on
the
Eleventh
Census,
Mr.
sold.
CHAPTER X
6AENBT
is
is
applied to a
or browncherry,
of
Almandite,
rich
is
The chemical
bases
Precious gar-
7.5,
with a
specific
and occasionally
as
high as
4.3.
as jewellers call
of
gem
fanciers, is
fire-like "
meaning "
is
this has a
range of colour
to almost black.
Pyrope
its spe-
and
cific
between
io8
3.7
and
3.8.
The
fracture
brittle;
refraction,
single;
Instre,
SAPPHIRES DIAMOND CRYSTALS FROM KIMBERLEY MINES, SOUTH AFRICA Specimens in U. S. Nat. Museum
Garnet
vitreouB;
it
109
to
is
transparent
opaque.
Most
glass.
brown or black
is
Carhunculus
In
is
dodecahedrus :
order
Hyalina.
crystallo-
the rhomindistinct
The cleavage
is
Be-
The tendency
of garnet is
and
it is
these range
of sand
a grain
up
to those of several
pounds in weight.
one version,
is
its crys-
in
size
and colour
to
the
seeds of the
pomegranate.
is
but
it
meaning
is
Some
no
name
of
a specific gem.
fiery-red
Rome was
carbo, coal,
which
stones
is
common
net
is
now generally termed garnets. The garamong the stones earliest mentioned in the
its
Almandite derives
Caria, Asia
to an-
Eome.
not
of
almandite, for
came from
localities
known
Pegu province. Lower Burma, and were called " Sirian garnets." So careful
Max
cious stones,
that Syriam,
the ancient
capital of Pegu, is
the British
resume
of
Garnet
precious almandite occurs in any part of
1 1
while
in
Long
ago, therefore,
market
" garnet is
now
merely a type;
it
mined on an
The stone
variety too
plentifully
environments of almandite.
Rhodolite
dite
is
related to the
It
latter,
is
of
occurs
known
is in
a curious occur-
rence
in crystals of ruby.
of
the rhododendron,
112
Book
of Precious Stones
known
in
under that
title;
is
and colour
to
recognise,
"
is
scarcely
lic.
known
is
the dark
the
company with
diamond
called "
in
trade,
Cape Ruby."
gem
a
stone,
diamond
fields,
magnesium-aluminium
garnet,
containing
its specific
was done
for
Garnet
some time
present
after its discovery.
113
In the trade at
this
variety
of
garnet
commands a
Lime-
2.7,
and a
The
varieties
and cinnamon
stone,
the latter
improperly called, by
merchants,
stones
"hyacinth."
come chiefly from Ceylon; they are of a cinnamon brown, or range from that to a
deep
gold
colour
tinged
with
brown.
Gros-
and brown
is yel-
Eomansovite
to
is
brown.
Wilnite
lowish-green
greenish-white.
yellow.
Topazolite
is
is
topaz, to citrine,
Succinite
amber
coloured.
or
green garnets:
toids have
a rich
114
Book
of Precious Stones
found chiefly in Russia.
variety, Uvarovite, is
Montana ruby is a trade term for tlie fine garnets found in Montana and Arizona. The finest
American garnets are found
in the territory of
New
Mexico
col-
from
ant-hills
from adjacent
According to the
gem
stones,
known
locally
as
Arizona and
New
Mexico
of
Good Hope.
light the
By
artificial
American stones
These American
Another type
tite,
of garnet is
known
as spessar-
alumina
finest
The
were
discovered
CHAPTER XI
THE OPAL
T^HE
^
precious opal
;
is
indi-
vidual of gems
reveals the
of all the
opaque minerals,
it
and the
fame of
of superstition
which condemned
as unlucky;
is
obscure.
its lost
For
a time, however,
it
largely regained
its
popularity,
having found
most
illustrious
is
that
it
the
very land of
gems.
Opal, in mineralogy,
the order Hyalina;
it is
is
Hyalus opalinus, of
of granular structure;
some-
"5
ii6
Book
of Precious Stones
The colour
elements.
is
Some
The
is
from a multitude of
the harlequin
fire
opal
which
colours,
shows
with
hyacinth
fire-like
red
to
honey-yellow
Girasol
is
reflections.
bluish-white
and
is
translucent,
and,
under
a
Le-
flashes
when immersed
in
water.
ish,
Cacholong
is
an opaque porcelain,
blu-
yellowish,
or reddish white.
Opal agate
to quartz.
and
opal
is is
to
opal as jasper
silicifled
Wood
wood
by opal.
Hyalite
and
clear, or trans-
The Opal
manganese oxide, and
is
117
is to
to
quartz.
A
is
freakish
opal
is
bamboo;
it
absorbent, and,
like
hydroin
when immersed
As a mineral, opal
is
quite
common, so that
at
in
of prospecting,
eties of
many
localities.
variety
of
colours.
The
silica
is
deposited
by
opalescent.
The
fall into
termed geyserite.
There
noble opal
general.
Opal
is
and
Opals of a quality
fit
ii8
stones
A
are
Book
of Precious Stones
found in
many
lands.
Mines
in
none
is
found in the
Orient.
The Hungarian opals were undoubtThe edly those first known to the Romans. claim is made that Hungarian opals are less
likely
to
deteriorate
Gem
to
and Honduras.
a
states,
commercial
several
Mexican
a porphyritic trachyte.
The
is
all
uncut
not
gem
Washington.
The most
The Opal
in recent years
119
White
Cliffs,
New,
South Wales.
The output
of
lions of dollars.
commercial quantities at
occasionally found in
West
Australia.
The admiration
is
hun-
dred years
who remarks
"
The
delicate
me
Pliny, whose
who
about
anything,
wrote of the
opal
" It
is
made up of the glories of the most precious gems, and to describe it is a matter of inexpressible difficulty." The ancients esteemed the opal highly, and attributed to it an influence
for every possible good; this belief outlasted the
the
early
is
part
of
the
century the
opal
recorded
as
Then arose a
20
A
this
and
cause
of this
Scott's
novel
reason
why
opal
as unlucky by
possessors
is its
mutability.
The changes which may occur in the opal are not only numerous but freakish and uncanny. Brilliant opals have lost their fires and lustre forever, while others have lost and recovered
them.
Mediocre specimens
oil
sometimes,
or
when
many
is
many
fires
and
colours,
and there
was to benefit her colonial subjects where opals had been discovered.
Queen Victoria gave
The Opal
at their marriage, opals,
121
and
this
raised
high
in
the
realm of precious
de-
the
United
States
for
their
effect.
And
it
may
be
demand has
for,
and
well
American
purchasers
themselves
CHAPTER
XII
THE TOPAZ
YELLOW
is
sometimes
may
thoroughly identified
colour yellow.
this
stone
with
the
of to-
the
it.
common
Topaz
substitution
of
other
for
takes
its
name from
it
known
locality
from whence
came was
sur-
and therefore
find.
mariners to
The name
is
prism.
Its
cleavage
is
parallel
basal
-<!
The Topaz
plane, almost perfect,
123
cleaves so easily
and
it
if
cracked or broken.
is
The
Topaz
is either
transparent
many
and white.
KoUed
drops
of
water.
mineral
is
True topaz
ing hydroxl
and
by those accustomed
but
acid.
to
handling them.
Topaz
is
partially
decomposed by sulphuric
take a high
polish,
in brilliant or rose
to resemble the
However,
but
weakly
doubly
124
Book
and
refractive
dispersive,
comparative
softness
makes
its distinction
a simple matter.
Although
infusible,
when
suf-
it
forms a clear
glass.
Some
varieties
tinge
when
The
gem with an
com-
process
called
is
packed
in
If the temperature
attained has not been suf&ciently high, the desired rose-petal tint
is
sal-
mon
high, or
pletely
disappears.
Pulverised
topaz
changes
Topaz genif
by
heat,
and
both
ter-
The Topaz
Several minerals are
125
called topaz;
commonly
yellow
sapphire
of
is
called
" Oriental
and
varieties
quartz
are called
of de-
varieties.
and
tin.
and
pellucid, is not
uncommon;
in
as crystals
it
found in
Miask,
the
Ural Mountains,
peb-
Siberia,
bles, in
Minas Geraes,
gem claimed
crown jewels
carats, as
A
is
sometimes termed
fine
sapphire."
" Indian
saffron-yellow
called
topaz,"
occurs
infre-
rarely, in
Brazil; the
126
A Book of Precious
distinguished
in
Stones
is
the
kind
the
jewelry
trade
as
Kingdom
to
Max
Bauer,
producing topaz;
main source
of topaz,
and a review
of the
localities, association,
and
lished
tensive space.
is
found to an
ex-
it
gem-quality
rare.
Colorado
has
of
Small but
New Hampshire,
crystals.
CHAPTEE
XIII
TURQUOISE
'T'UEQUOISE
*
day, as
it
is
a popular
gem mineral
it
to-
Turquoise
kidney-shaped
colour
blue.
is
and incrustations;
its
Of Persian
supposed to be
and
callaica.
names
it
;
callainite
says
is
Oliver
The hardness
ity, 2.6 to 2.8;
there
no cleavage;
127
it is
brittle
128
Book
of Precious Stones
The
is
lustre of turquoise
waxy and
the colour
sky-blue, bluish-green,
apple-green,
and greenish-gray.
Artificial
The colour
is
becoming a
to
pale green.
tur-
The chemical composition of the turquoise is a hydrous phosphate of aluminium and copper, and the principal components
parts
are:
in
hundred
alumina,
phosphoric
acid,
30.9;
The exposure
cause
it
of turquoise to a sufficiently
The turquoise most highly prized comes from and the most celebrated are those from an old mine, the Abdurrezzagi in a district of
Persia,
the
Nishapur
province
in
the
north-eastern
come from Asia Minor, Turkestan, and Kirghiz Steppes. The Egyptians mined
Turquoise
quoise in the
Sinai.
129
tlie
Wady
Maghara, in
desert of
proved of
found in
United States
ance as a
source for
world
is
a well-known
re-
Other
localities
are
New
it is sel-
dom
form, with convex surface; as the pieces suitable for cutting seldom reach a large size big
Turquoise
class jew-
matrix
is
also used
now
for
medium
in
elry, the
its
matrix.
The turquoise
dark-brown
I30
matrix
A
is
much
The matrix
is flinty,
of
American mines
bilities of
someto
times
penetrates
it.
turquoise
it
apt
break
Occidental
sively,
is
turquoise,
formerly
used extenfossil
odontolite,
made from
bone,
it is still
mined
Lower
Languedoc, France.
loses its colour in
light,
and,
when
Its weight
and
it
does
to
the
demand
for
CHAPTEE XIV
CAT'S-BYB
/^^AT'S-EYE
^-^
one
mineral
is
more than
which
exhibits
chatoyancy
French word signifying a changeable, undulating lustre, like the eye of a cat in the dark
is
The true
cat's-eye is
cymophane, a variety of
otherwise
silica,
distinct.
Chrysoberyl
is
is,
devoid
of
theoretic-
ally,
80.2.
" cat's-eye,"
" Oriental
cat's-eye,"
its
lonese cat's-eye."
Besides
principal
comim-
ponents,
purities
chrysoberyl
frequently
contains
oxides.
Chrysoberyl
very hard
8.5,
being third in
is
132
A Book of Precious
the
specific
3.8.
Stones
of
diamond,
gravity
chrysoberyl
Chrysoberyl crystallises
complicated
This
peculiar
is
brittle;
attack
it
it;
it
is
will
Lustre
is
vitreous
slightly
greasy.
is is
Chrysoberyl
only transparent
doubly, but not
of
when
colour
it
strongly,
in
Brazilian
from pale
the latter
is its
variety is alexandrite.
The
distinction of
chrysoberyl
more
movement
most strongly developed by cutting the stone convex, and therefore cat's-eye is cut en cabochon.
most strongly
Cat's-Eye
133
The
effect of the
chatoyancy
is in
of royalty
eye
was invested, when His Royal Highness, Duke of Connaught, gave his fiancee a ring
the
set
mand
price.
for it
rise in
in
the
northern
is
producer of chrysoberyl of
chatoyant.
associated
quartz,
gar)
spinel,
euclase
is
blue topaz.
tifled
Chrysoberyl
erroneously inden-
with,
134
ians,
A
and
Book
of Precious Stones
in precious stones
every-
where.
The usual
will
hardness
especially,
lite.
The source
cymophane and
The
cat's-
eye record for size was long held by a Ceylonese specimen, and, until the year 1815, this was a
jewel in the crown of the King of Kandy.
The
To a small
mined
in
extent,
chatoyant chrysoberyl
is
the
Ural
Mountains of Siberia.
Among
when
and convex,
a
cat,
contracted
beryl,
pupil
of
the
eye
of
are
corundum,
crocidolite,
dumortierite,
gypsum,
These
labradorite,
limonite,
and
hematite.
may
be opaque, translucent, or
Cat's-Eye
transparent and of any colour or colours.
135
Peris
the
and
soft colouring of
cymophane.
The shades
ish,
yellowish-grey,
and brown.
Simple
tests
from cymophane,
and
its
specific
and
not dichroic;
its chief
components are
silicon
light ap-
in
the trade,
is
from
cat's-eye,
it
but as chatoyancy
chief characteristic,
may
it
as well be included
is
is
small,
it
can be
The proper
is
meaning "woof,"
structure.
like
allusion
is
to
its
fibrous asbestos-
Crocidolite
Its
fibrous
mineral.
colours
are
gold-yellow,
and a dull
red.
The blue
is
136
Book
of Precious Stones
Croci-
eye ray
tains:
is
strongly apparent.
Crocidolite con-
silica,
51;
iron
3.
oxides,
34;
soda,
7;
magnesia, 2; water,
specific gravity 3.26.
Hardness 4 to 7 and
The
Tiger-eye
is
well adapted
to,
and intaglios; was very popular from about the year 1880
The stones distinguished as chatoyant sometimes include alexandrite, a variety of chrysoberyl, strongly dichroic
and sometimes
that
trichroic.
and Gems,
states
he
has
seen
artificial
characteristic
of
this
mineral.
To display
This stone
was discovered
in the
an anniversary of the
Cat's-Eye
day of the Czar Alexander
II.,
137
of Eussia, for
whom
it
hues of
was named. Alexandrite has marked red and green, the national colours of
it
Russia; by daylight
One
description of this
gem
includes the
phrase "
it is
thyst by night."
the
CHAPTEE XV
CHEYSOPEASB
/'^SRYSOPEASE
^-^
is
wood, such as
forest
is
known
mounnot
is
used by lapidaries.
variety
of
a fine-grained, very
of
quartz,
granular
consistency.
is
degree.
They believed
it
lost its
colour when
stimulant.
characteristic of chrysoprase
splintery
ChrysOprase
on translucency.
130
tints of chryso-
The approved
tints are
occasionally used.
fast
steadits
in
artificial
presence to about one per cent, of nickel, probably in the form of a hydrated silicate; the loss
of water
ends
long exposure to
The
brittleness of chrysoit
is
Although
its intrinsic
value
is less
than
is
and
is
highly esteemed
among
and
the
semi-precious stones.
Chrysoprase
occurs
in
plates
veins,
is
a district south of
I40
Book
of Precious Stones
was discovered in 1740 by a Prussian officer. The real discovery probably long preceded this,
because chrysoprase, used decoratively, has
isted in the
ex-
Wenzel
found
localities in Europe,
one
at Nickel
fa-
this
was
to
some
ex-
came
tables
made
of chrysoprase,
and had
it utilised in
faits
mosaics.
Chrysoprase
cess Trina,
141
riches,
and
be-
sides
Eeduced
by the
unbearable sight of the sufferings of the children of her starving people, the good Princess
when a tiny
lacertilian
language,
which
the
princess
by
virtue
said
:
of
her
talisman
understood perfectly,
Only seek."
Thus
admonished
the
princess
wandered
through the stony bed of one river after another wearing out her eyes, her strength, and
when about
to
succumb
to exhaustion,
142
Book
of Precious Stones
of
culous occurrence
dis-
CHAPTER XVI
JADB
TADE
'-'
is
man
for ages,
and used
an opaque
generic
to translucent
colour.
now a
and jewelry,
in
the
sometimes
deceive
143
that
could
no one
"jade"
is
in
144
Book
always
posses-
Nephrite
Nephrus amorphous
is
The
name
mineral
to
all
and have
for centuries.
Jade
is
and white;
trans-
An
silica,
Jade
is infusible be-
blowpipe,
borax
forms clear
is
Jadeite
a tough, fibrous
foliated, to closely
to
Jade
a transparent glass containing bubbles or
ters.
145
blis-
variety that
is
Weapons and
But few
of the
supplied
tisans
raw material
artists, are
for these
;
unnamed
ar-
and
in
ant
is
the vicinity of
it
Burma, where
in
jadeite miners
crack the boulders by heating, and the pieces found of merchantable quality
are either sawed into the required shapes by
slender steel saws, kept tense by
or sold as found to traders
Emmost
Jadeite
of
next in favour.
Dr.
Max Bauer
states that
Nephrite
schists
in
occurs
the
in
gneiss
and
amphibole
Karakash Valley in the Kuen Lun Mountains, Turkestan, and this is now an
important source of supply; these mines have
146
A Book
is
of Precious Stones
Nephrite
Silesia,
Germany, and in New Zealand. Both nephrite and jadeite, carved into weapons and ornaments,
have been found in
all the
Americas; the
oc-
and
it is
a possibility that
much
of
originated there.
The Chinese name for jade is " Yu," or " YuShih" (Yu stone), and the Chinese do not seem
to distinguish
In
extent
for
jewelry,
excepting
an
artistic
who have
it
visited
the
through
visit-
Cantonese in American
cities.
demand
for
Europe and the United States by connoisseurs and colexamples of Chinese art, not for the intrinsic value of the mineral, but because of the wondrous workmanship displayed
lectors for beautiful
CHAPTER XVII
MOONSTONE
jVyiOONSTONES have a
*
'
soft
attractiveness
that
is
in
contrast
with
the
flashing
They
form of
balls, and,
possessor
The superstitions
in the
refresh the
memory.
ef&cacy, it should be a
modern
have
whose
books
been
of,
burned,
or
and bankrupts
disposition
was
stone,
would cure
epilepsy, a
faith still
148
Book
of Precious Stones
Another
be-
moon
was an
would enable
If there is
wearer
basis
any
gem
and
stock
market.
is
gems.
Although
various
minerals
may
is
be
termed
the opales-
a name which
it
it
derives from
St.
Mount
Gothard
is
found.
The Greeks
it
called
of the
moon.
The Eomans
selenite,
called
Lunaris.
A
in
England,
its
which derives
its
name
be
from
soft lustre,
suggestive of moonshine,
and
is
literally
may
list
of even the
semi-precious stones.
Moonstone
Moonstone,
according
to
149
mineralogical
the
re-
flection
hardness,
6;
specific
gravity,
lustre
vitreous,
sometimes pearly on a
occasionally,
One
68.7;
hundred parts of
Albite
rocks,
silica,
a constituent of
many
crystalline
and frequently replaces feldspar as a constituent of granite, of syenite, and of greenstone; sometimes
it is
and dolomite.
Common
gem
chiefly
15
Albite
found at Mineral
Hill,
near Media,
America.
heliolite, is
applied to
feld-
Sunstone
is
found
at
localities.
limited ;
is
use in jewelry is now very not costly, and artificial " sun-
made
of glass, containis
often pre-
CHAPTER
XVIII
PERIDOT
TTYBEIDS
* *
specifically
are foreign
to
mineralogy,
but
in the
minds of those
To
'American jewellers
known
as peridot.
With
possible that
chrysolite
are
sold
under
name
olivine.
W.
R.
Cattelle,
writes
The distinction between varieties is practically one of colour only. For many years lapidaries were in the habit of calling the chrysoberyl " Oriental chrysolite," and in consequence the two stones have been confused, though the chrysolite is much
the softer
stone
dif-
152
A Book of Precious
present
Stones
it is customary to call those which most to yellow " chrysolite " the yellowish green, resembling a light tourmaline with a dash of yellow, is known by the name " peridot," given to it by the French jewellers and " olivine " is the name associated with the brighter yellowish em-
At
incline
Few
olivines
known here as olivines, are generally demantoids, Russian green garnets, of about the same hardness; these are rarely found large enough to cut to gems of over one half to three quarters of a carat.
bright yellowish-green stones
6.5
to 7; specific gravity, 3.33 to 3.44; cleavage, distinct; fracture, conchoidal; brittle; lustre, vit-
olive
green; brownish,
It is strongly
doubly
re-
marked dichroism
in
some
spe-
Gem
yellowish green
green
beryl.
The approved
Peridot
green
leaf.
153
is
highly ferruginous variety; specific gravity attaining 3.57; colour, a rich olive green. Olivine is a frequently occurring constituent
of
is
and ore
ple
Chemically, olivine
specimen
sam-
is
composed
of,
approximately,
9.
silica,
Olivine
a constituent of meteorites.
The
Dr.
somewhat puzzling
doubtful.
mineral
are
characteristically
is
modem
supply of chrysolite
taken out
pieces
of old jewelry.
of chrysolite
to
originate
Levant,
Burma, Ceylon,
perhaps an ancient source. The chrysolite of the Bible may have been topaz. Small chrysolites" Job's tears " of good
near the
Eed Sea
quality
are
with
pyrope
New
Mexico.
CHAPTER XIX
KUNZITB
1>''UNZITE is a comparatively new transparA *- ent gem discovered in America about 1903
it is
mene were discovered a mile and a half northeast from Pala, San Diego County, California. The vicinity of this discovery was already of great interest to students of gem minerals because but fifty feet away from the spot is a
famous deposit of tourmaline from which specimen crystals remarkable for the unusually
large size
taken,
away
is
a celebrated rubellite
154
Kunzite
and
tals
55
lepidolite
locality.
The spodumene
cryssize,
one weighing thirty-one ounces, troy ; the dimensions of this crystal were 18 x 8 x 3 centimetres.
and
delicate
lilac
pink
amethystine;
and the
tints.
lighter
finest
The
spe-
transparency.
These
lilac-spodumene
ridge.
The rock
is
much
kaolinised and
unaltered
spodumene
found
near
crys-
Branchville, Connecticut.
The Meridian
156
tals
Book
first
of Precious Stones
supposed to be tourmaline, but
these
were at
who
unsuc-
to fiake.
Kunzite
variety of
is
entirely distinct
spodumene
County, North Carolina, and from the transparent yellow variety reported by a mineralogist
named Pisani
its
to
Brazil,
and, since
Spodumene
phane
it
is
tri-
in
its
general characteristics
is
a mem-
the only
gem
of
spodumene
is:
64.5;
is
alumina,
27.4;
and
lithia,
8.4.
Spodumene
hardness
is
its
6%
lustre, vitreous.
Spodumene
is it
word spodumene being derived from the Greek spodios, meaning ash-coloured. Most of the
Kunzite
spodumene
found
is
157
only
the
opaque,
gem
Spo-
dumene
and
Until
crystallises
in
found four
of
feet long.
the discovery
kunzite
the
use
of
to the emerald-
named
W.
to
with
ranging
from
colourless
Five carats
about the
maximum
make
and
to
originally identified
named metal
is;
two
Some spodu-
mene
transparent
and
pleochroic.
Viewed
transversely
some
representative crystals were faintly pink ; longitudinally they presented a rich pale lavender
colour, approaching amethystine.
character-
158
istic of
A Book of Precious
kunzite crystals
is
Stones
a peculiar etching,
number
and
its
its
bom-
mark
this
unusual interest to
rank of semi-
But the most interesting thing to me is the of radium on it. A few milligrammes of radium bromide brought near the piece of kunzite makes it glow with a fine yellowish light, which
effect
ra-
dium, but persists for several seconds. I have found some diamonds phosphoresce brightly under the influence of radium, and have been searching for a mineral which is equally sensitive. I think this lilac variety of spodumene runs the diamond very close, if it does not surpass it sometimes.
in response to the
already
known
to arouse
it,
Kunzite
is
59
thus
summed
up,
in
sentence,
by Dr.
Kunz:
In a word, kunzite responds to radium, actinium, Eontgen and ultra-violet rays; it is thermoluminescent and pyro-electric. Becomes radescent
when mixed
heated,
in powdered form with radium; becomes incandescent when this mixture is slightly
and crystals or gems become beautifully for quite a time by passing a faradio current through it, or if held between the
phosphorescent
poles of a Holtz machine.
The
sole
drawback at present
to the increas-
New York
demand.
United
Geological
Survey,
about
126
gem
found there.
CHAPTER XX
TOURMALINES
A
'*
in
its
STONE
it
of
many
colours is tourmaline;
was introduced into Europe from India 1703 and its name is adapted from turmali,
Cingalese name.
Tourmaline
is
a widely
dis-
considerable popularity.
The
tourmaline
been
found
in
MassaIts
chusetts, California,
State.
principal
Burma,
;
Brazil,
Isle
and dolomite.
Crystal-
six, nine, or
In hardness
i6o
it is
equal to quartz
Its lustre
and approaches
GREEN AND PINK TOURMALINE, MESA GRANDE, CALA. OWNED BY HARVARD UNIVERSITY.
;
Courtesy of A. H. Petereit
Tourmalines
is
i6i
vitreous, it ranges
is
and
cleavage
from 2.94 to
3.15.
Tourmaline is one of the most dichroic stones, and individual specimens vary more from others
in composition in almost
is
the case
In colour, black
Some
rather
richness,
than brilliancy,
the
quality
which
and external
Dana
dis-
tinguishes
as
follows:
rubellite,
shades
of
frequently
transparent
(two
of the finest
known specimens
of this variety
in
the
Natural History
Museum
at South Kensington,
England)
emerald;
Berlin
green
blue,
(or
peridot),
and
colourless;
aphrizite,
black;
and
1 62
A Book
of Precious Stones
Tourmaline heated,
in
like
form from
making
and negative
poles.
to
Tourmaline
bril-
Twin-coloured tourmaline
refractive;
is
strongly doubly
green
and green;
blue.
red-
blue, light
and dark
The
Some brown
tourmalines
is
lighter or that
The
amber brown
it
is
shades.
Eed tourmaline
occasionally so like
ex-
Tourmalines
pert
163
the colour of
it
so lus-
it
is
frequently more
re-
transparent.
singly refractive
is
tint.
Ked topaz
harder and
and
yel-
Sapphire
is
Aquamarine
is
is
harder than
tourmaline, but
pert, usually
Tourmaline has
New York
at
least
that,
State.
in
Digging
locality,
tourmalines,
the
one
offers
fascination
in
some
One
64
Book
of Precious Stones
of tourmalines
description of
for
tourmalines
was written by
for
Mr.
C.
S.
Burma,
the
London
is in
Tribune.
separate crys-
and men
de-
down a
distance
is
that of sinking a
Custom
of
shaft.
Mr.
is
0. S.
George referred
to above
others lying separate in the loose yellowish earth that is found with granite. When a vein is once
found
it is
limit. What, however, makes the mining so exciting and at the same time keeps the
to the five
fathom
industry fluctuating
is
Tourmalines
are found only intermittently in the vein.
get several in the length of one yard,
165
One may
and then they will unaccountably cease. Directly one man strikes a vein yielding crystals every one who can commences digging along the line of the vein, but it is all a toss-up as to whether, when the vein is
reached, there will be tourmaline therein.
Adjoinit
at all rich.
Of the sixty-two shafts at the time of Mr. George's only three were yielding, and of these only one had traces of the best quality stone. The veins are fairly deep down, none having ever been reached at a lesser depth than nine fathoms, while an
ordinary depth " vein " takes a
is
When
the
downward
it is
followed
pulled
up
worked
by enormously long pivoted bamboos weighted with a counterpoise, and the tourmaline is sorted out of hand, the granitic fragments being piled in a wall around the mouth of the shaft.
The
the introduction
of
this
beautiful
and multi-
mankind, and
its
discovery in America,
after the year 1700,
Soon
66
A Book
in
of Precious Stones
Holland were playing
in a
some children
court-yard
bright-
some
fied,
lapidaries,
who
The
or significance.
when
and held
ashes
and straws.
The
ment as
unable to explain or
to
name
The story
hemisphere
from their immature inThe principal source of the best American tourmalines is a mine on Mount Mica
valuable
results vestigation. at Paris, Maine.
Gem
tourmalines were
dis-
Mount Mica on an autumn day in 1820 by two boys, Elijah L. Hamlin and Ezekiel
covered on
When
nearing
home from a
Tourmalines
tion,
167
fine
green tourmaline.
A
the
following spring they returned to their " claim " and secured a number of fine crystals.
to
are found in
treasure house.
lars'
More than
fifty
thousand
dol-
While
this
sum
of
money
not great
many specimens
institutions.
The strong dichroism of the tourmaline and its variety of colour composition and other remarkable properties make
it
and
Kuskin
68
Book
of Precious Stones
its
in
harlequin
composition
little
of everything ; there
's
always
is
flint
and
iron ac-
cording to its fancy and there 's boracic acid, if you know what that is, and if you don't, I cannot tell you to-day, and it does n't signify and there 's potash and soda; and on the whole, the chemistry of it is more like a mediaeval doctor's prescription than the making of a respectable mineral.
;
CHAPTEE XXI
AMBER
ALTHOUGH
amber
like
and
realm of
gems which
the pearl
are,
diamond, which
Like
the
and
coral,
amber
is identified in
derived. of Dr.
Max Bauer
" This
much used
being
of vegetable origin,
or
less
considerably
of
extinct
trees.
and
for that
i7o
reason
may
which
it is
an appendix
to
to minerals."
was known
ples,
peo-
of Switzerland.
Amber
is
it
elektron,
electricity.
the resin of a
life
The
The vegetable
definitely
origin of
established in
was a
is
accepted as indis-
must have
the
is
fresh
in
was
fluent.
it
Wherever amber
found
the earth,
is in
or lignite.
Amber, or
succinite,
then,
is
fossil
resin
Amber
and having a conchoidal
low,
or
171
Colour
yel-
some specimens reddish, brownish, whitish, cloudy and occasionally fluorescent, with a
waxy; transparent
trified
by
friction.
Amber
and
it
is
inflammable with
emits an aromatic
it softens,
and
In alcohol
it is
soluble.
in one hun-
Amber
is
and
in
North America,
This
is
it
called
is
" sea
stone,"
or
" sea
amber," and
uncontaminated
superior
in
by
is
quality to
that
which
mined.
172
Book
of Precious Stones
often entangled in seais colcalled " scoop stone "
is
weed and
called "
this
lected in nets.
amber
The weight of amber being about the same as sea-water, agitation of the water conexposed.
taining
tion.
it
is
About 1860,
it
was sought on the adjacent terra firma by modern mining methods, and the operations have resulted in an established successful industry.
Professor Oliver
Oummings
Farrington,
in his book
amber no larger than walnuts. The amber reveals a varied colour display
exterior.
The advantages
include
its
remarkable durability.
CHAPTER XXII
BLOODSTONE
BLOODSTONE,
the
stones,
or
heliotrope,
representing
month
of
March
the centre of
of the
much legendary
interest, is
one
varieties of
The
min-
involved and
complicated
eralogy,
by differing authorities in
is
but bloodstone
a massive variety
and
is
to
which
it
owes
its
name.
One
bloodstone
ion of Christ,
Roman
which
fell
The body
of bloodstone is translucent to
174
Book
of Precious Stones
colour.
and of a dark-green
Quartz, as
is
mengemsys-
its
tem; hardness, 7;
specific
gravity, 2.5
to 2.8
the
Pure quartz
is silica;
many
to
and
other
chromatic
constituents.
The red
The
specific
name, heliotrope,
other
is
favoured by
" Helio-
Dana,
trope "
among
is
mineralogists.
when immersed
water would
The
weird mineral.
This opaque, but slightly lustrous, jaspery
quartz,
although
is
beautiful
and
interesting
in jewelry,
mineral,
now
and a requisition
crasy, or because
is
usually an idiosyn-
is
in the
month
is
March.
Hardy,
it is
well adapted
rings
and
usually
seen
bearing
Bloodstone
crests or
175
monograms.
Outside
the
of
jewelry
it
supplies
fine
material
artistic
cups,
small
vases,
and
statuettes.
is
In
the
French
a bust of Jesus
drops of blood.
ing
is
Another
fine
specimen of carv-
is
derived almost
war Peninsula.
and Brazil.
Bum.
CHAPTER XXIII
MOSS AGATE
ly/lOSS
AGATE
and
is
a variety of chalcedonic
^^ ^
elry of to-day,
interestin
ing features of
this stone are
fibres,
gem mineralogy.
Enclosed
what seem
to be long hairs
and
These
in-
is
now
Val de Noto.
varieties of
and are
176
slightly softer
and
MOSS AGATE
Moss Agate
lighter than crystallised quartz.
177
The hardness
more
difficult to
which makes
these varieties
of colour
carving.
The
finest
believed,
from the
entrance of the
aromatic
coffee.
Red Sea most famous for its The Oriental moss agates are
(trap rock)
of
common
western
occurring
with
Mocha
stone.
many Indian
and
artificial
rivers.
come,
on the market.
form of
the
beds
of
streams.
As
of
souvenirs,
and
for
sentimental
beautiful
reasons
stones
local
interest,
these
gem
of our
Rocky Mountain
78
Mocha
agate)
is
stone
(" tree
stone "
or
dendritic
markings
re-
formed by the percolation of a solution containing iron or manganese through the fine fissures
of the stone,
of
The brown and red markings are caused by oxide of iron, and the black by oxide of
manganese.
Agate in general
decoration
the
is
but
little
used in modern
interior archiin
and
is
always
demand.
of
For
centuries,
that this
in-
many
neighbouring
town of Idar.
The subject
and use
of
in
CHAPTER XXIV
ONXX AND SARDONYX
/^NYX
^-^
varieties of agate
them
to the purposes
of
cameo engravers.
modern
artists.
The word
onyx means a
it is
finger-nail,
lustre
and appearance of a
of
its
Of course
mineral
if
the Greek
myth be true
this
most beautiall
ful
instance
stratification
in
nature owes
Cupid, and
is
dence
we have
is
mundane
visits
of
the
Goddess of Beauty.
Sardonyx
brown colour
179
of sard.
Chalee-
i8o
A Book of Precious
Stones
Sonyx and carnelionyx derive their names from the colours of the intervening layers. " Mexican
onyx,"
it
should be noted,
is calcite,
not quartz,
and
is
very
much
and
is
softer
extensively
of
The
old
is
Rome.
sively
worked now
Germany,
is
is softer
than
the
German
particularly sus-
by the
scientific
German
besides
processes.
The onyxes
onyx
cameo engraving,
chalcedony-onyx,
proper,
are
ii
darker
coloured
Cameos are
The
tool of
cameo engraver
is
known
as a style.
his-
was that sardonyx upon which Queen Elizabeth's portrait was cut, set in the famous
ring which she gave the Earl of Essex as a
When
sentenced to
Lady
sister,
By
mistake the
manic
ring,
and
Earl
con-
was executed.
the Countess
when
aclife
God may
for-
Sardonyx
be-
1 82
A
its
Book
of Precious Stones
power of conferring eloquence
it
upon
wearers;
symbolised conjugal
bliss.
In Revelations
it is
named
Holy
CHAPTEE XXV
SEMI-PEECIOUS STONES OCCASIONALLY USED
THE
many
beautiful
gem
stones; these
may
be classed as semi-precious
and while
many
lack
some quality
hardness
which
who have
gem buyer
and
in
is
84
lected
and are
merchants.
is
In
the
in
difference
respect
between
cities
the
and
near
them or
close
to
the
Eocky
many welcome
and
San
Francisco,
cities,
States.
Among
ADAMANTINE SPAR,
brown
varieties of
which includes
hair-
corundum.
ALABASTER.
uettes,
is
Although
its
objects, alabaster
other
Alabaster
is
fine-grained
it
holds a
Mohs
scale of hardness
185
that
it
it
AMATEICE
qualified
is
more or
gem
family.
Exploited as a
gem mineral by
its dis-
coverers
and miners
it is
collectors.
Amatrice
was discovered
the
Rocky Mountains,
is
It
chalcedony, sodium
oxide,
and traces
is
and potassium.
This mineral
green,
somewhat resembling turquoise matrix, but its chromatic variation is its most remarkable characteristic,
alike.
Its hardis
ness is
offered
Amatrice
now
The
foster-parents of
amatrice originated
it is
name from
distinctly
an American matrix.
or amazonstone, is a beautiful
AMAZONITE,
bluish
green
mineral
also at
found
in
Siberia
and
Scotland and
hardness
is
6.5.
now
86
Book
is
of Precious Stones
AZURITE
which shows various shades of azure, merging Azurite is both opaque and into Berlin blue.
soft
hardness, 4and
gem
these
characteristics
purposes.
BENITOITE.
and
said,
when
and
to excel the
blue
corundum gem
in brilliancy.
The mineral
is dichroic,
Benitoite crystallises in
trigonal
division;
its
hexagonal
system,
is
conchoidal; hardness, 6 to
tive.
6%;
highly refrac-
about
acid.
It is easily attacked
is
by hydrofluoric
Chemically, benitoite
silicate of
barium.
Benitoite
was discovered
in
Benitodeter-
Fresno County
and
is
187
brown variety of rock smoky topaz." Cairngorm has a sentimental and historic interest involved in its use as an ornament for the weapons and
is
CAIENGOEM
the
CAENELIAN
dony,
is
yellow,
and
brown;
Camelian
and
its
formerly
much more
and
its
it
CHONDEONITE,
a mineral that
found
deep
in
Chondron-
and
it
deIt
serves a
more extensive
is
use.
Hardness,
6.5.
DIOPSIDE
Fine specimens,
fit
for
gem
1 88
Book
St.
of Precious Stones
near DeKalb,
Lawrence County,
New
York.
at-
When
tractive stone
DIOPTASE
names
hardness,
5.
FLUORITB
or
fluorspar,
is
of which ehlorois
a variety,
a highly
sapphire,
and
other
well-known
gem
stones.
GOLD-QUAETZin
ulated,
worn
into
as
black, rose,
worked
jewelry of all
designs.
sometimes of very
uses of gold-quartz
elaborate
These
are most
common on
HEMATITE,
30,
is
composed of iron
70,
oxygen
commonly cut into beads, charms, and intaglios. Chromic iron and ilmenite are similarly used.
Although
Semi-Precious Stones
when
red
;
189
polished,
its
streak,
when
scratched, is
hence the
name
stone."
lOLITE,
phire, is
and water
sap-
for
gem purposes.
is
quartz.
JET
It is
Jet
LABEADOEITE,
called labrador, is
sometimes,
in
the
trade,
its
a feldspar.
Because of
structure
reveal dorite
some
be
Labraexhibits
and
LAPIS-LAZULI was
separate specific mineral ;
the
long
it
regarded
as
with
The hardness of
lapis-lazuli
iQo
is
Book
of Precious Stones
5.5;
specific
extensively
senti-
on account of
of, vol-
Lava
is
it
varies
in structure
lava
is
marks;
and
conchoidal;
of
opaque and
Lava frequently
lenate, hornblende,
contains crystals
garnet,
feldspar,
Vesuvian lava
of
mounted
MAGNETITE,
ity, is
properties attributed to
MALACHITE
is
carbonate of copper of a
When
effect.
OBSIDIAN
is
compact volcanic
glass,
and
is
Semi-Precious Stones
cot for
191
gem purposes
to.
to
or bottle
stone, of
tain
PHENACITE,
colourless,
liant
of
gem
quality, is transparent,
and
of a vitreous lustre.
is
This
bril-
mineral
harder,
heavier,
it
and more
1833 that
Its
which
so closely re-
sembles,
so
that
it
was not
until
name, phenacite,
is
Phenacite remotely
its brilliancy
and
re-
Some specimens
exhibit pale-rose
PYEITE
lustre
is
known
is
and
technically as marcasite.
eral,
common min-
and
informed for gold that it has earned the sobriquet " fool's gold." Pyrite is a sulphide of
iron.
Although so common as
to
have no
in-
remains in use
in jewelry
and
is
and
192
A Book of Precious
mounted
in
Stones
it is
scarf pins.
souvenirs,
settings.
In coal-mining regions
sold as
medium
to
low-priced
or less iron.
The colour of
brown, but some specimens when cut closely semble the ruby.
like
crystals
penetrating
quartz
and
other
SATIN SPAR
is
a form of gypsum,
white,
pearly opalescence.
trade
sometimes
in
necklaces,
charms,
and
is
pendants.
on the assumpof
gypsum
is
is ob-
tained in Wales.
STAUROLITE
among
Colour, red-
Semi-Precious Stones
dish
193
7.5.
brown
to
the twinned
is
a tradition
TITANITE,
but they
The colour range of titanite is considerable, and transparent pieces, according to their colour, when cut, resemble topaz, garpany of gems.
net, chrysolite,
tallises in
and other
stones.
Sphene
crys-
name sphene
is
meaning a wedge.
ZIECON
it is
is
alphabetically the
omega
of the
probably used
other
almost entitled
specific gravity
own.
High
"
abundance
194
at Matura, Ceylon.
smoky
zir-
or jargoons.
Trans-
Zircon
is
the
gem mineral
weight of water
to 4.86.
Its
its specific
hardness
7i^.
So high
it
is
its
index of refraction
the
1.92that
approaches
diamond
quality
in brilliancy
gem
Zircon
is
but
it is
CHAPTEE XXVI
CUTTING DIAMONDS AND OTHER GEMS
DREOIOUS
*
things of beauty.
scientific
and
artis-
lapidary.
artisans,
operators,
tool with
who
cuts,
forms,
and value of gems. Here may be said that the craft of the diamond
195
196
cutter
Book
of Precious Stones
of
solutely separate
The diamond cutter cuts diamonds The lapidary cuts and polishes all other Both diaprecious and semi-precious stones. mond cutter and lapidary prepare the way for the craft of the jeweller, to whose judgment and
and manufacture the cut gem owes For the
jewellers' art is as
artist's
its
art in design
or
mar
its
beauty.
and
and without
eller
intelligent co-operation,
gem
diamond cutter or
of
gem
stones is necessary
upon which
their beauty
is
dependent.
may
be
flaws
relieved
of its incrustations
and reduced
to a size that
its
imperfect
its
im-
prisoned
fires
Cutting
197
Occasionally a
artifice,
may
plainly
high rank in the court of gems; but, in the main, the development of
its
beauty to a high
The
work
of the
diamond cutter
to
principles
the
gem
crystallography,
especially
with
regard to
considera-
the
tion
planes
of
of
cleavage;
careful
the stone's
tleness,
and
thorough
acquaintance
with
re-
the established
sults
achieved
of
kinds
varieties.
Man's
first
gem
made to Gem-
iqS
a Book of Precious
little
Stones
vanced but
beyond
its
crude beginnings.
the
re-
left
The Asiatic artisan uses a polishing disc on end of a horizontal wooden axle, which
which
The motor
for this
is tied,
machine
is
power
forth;
is
arm
of
the operator,
there
is
who moves
is
usually no
stone
The abrasive powders of corundum some mineral nearly as hard, mixed with
shells.
The
of
improvement
arti-
especially in the
however, in
in their art
gem
was
cameos and
Cutting
of
199
state of perfection.
dia-
Antwerp
the art
form of
was
initiated in
and
is
practised in these
the
intrinsic
value of
precious
is
sac-
gem treatment
strong
in
Europe, and
is
conserved
and beauty.
The
1,
styles of cut
may
be grouped as follows:
2,
those
those
those
The
cut,
or Lisbon cut, half brilliant or single cut, trap or split brilliant cut, Portuguese cut, star cut,
rose cut, or briolette, step brilliant or
cut, table cut, this is
mixed
200
Book
of Precious Stones
year
mented with but not very successfully about the Styles of the second and third 1903.
groups are best adapted to
translucent
and
opaque
stone, styles
and
Both the
to
first
and second
are cut
are applied
garnets, which
(or en cahochon),
carbuncles.
The
cut,
divi-
The third
chon
cut.
The
by two
is
truncated in a
manner
The
two pyramids
to
called
the
girdle.
modifications
of
this
as
the
size,
facets, the
fifty-
in
the
perfect
brilliant
number
The top
Cutting
201
the bottom
is
and
formed
The triangular facets touching the summit of the crown are called star
skill facets
two groups,
corner
girdle, girdle,
and skew
the
facets.
The
the
facets
touching
table
and
when on the crown, and the culet and when on the pavilion, are called, respectively, tessel or Msel facets, and pavilion facets. A summary of the number of facets and their
is
distribution
facets,
as
follows:
table,
16
skill
is
around the
culet,
making
it
sixty-six in all.
The
the
should be pro-
portioned as follows:
girdle,
From
total.
culet
The diameter
of
gem.
202
A Book of Precious
brilliant, or
Stones
is
The double
Lisbon cut,
a form
of
lozenge-shaped facets,
and
four in
all.
The half
is
English cut
and
is
now
the
when
top
it is
is
The trap
from the
brilliant
in
of rhom-
table is hexagonal in
triangles,
from the table spring six equilateral whose apexes touch the girdle, and by the prolongation of
their
star.
these
points,
triangles,
form a
The crown
The base lines of these form the base lines for a row of facets whose apexes touch the girdle, leavfacets
Cutting
203
The
be
may be
cut.
may
The shape
may
may be
adapted.
to the girdle,
while the
number
stone.
adapted to
coloured stones.
brilliant, or
the
or the opposite.
and
edges.
more
is
facets.
The
facets
twentieth-century
cut
contains
more
than
the
brilliant
and
differently
2o4
Book
but with
the centre.
fied,
most
flat.
This cut
is
especially to
probably
and dispersion
of
and beneath
cut
The
a
double
cabochon
is
customarily
with
The
the turquoise.
is
best for
The mixed
side, or both,
cabochon cuts
The degree of convexity in the various is made to depend upon the nais
to be
The cabochon
cuts
are
specifically
Cutting
205
simple, but
especially
due to the
skill
and
judgment of the
a facet
cutter.
desired
or with
some other
substance.
The
softer,
and gradmineral
is
the
surface
of
the
subject
In like
manner other
surface
is
facets are
added or a rounded
similar
produced
by
means.
In
a paste
(if
(if
diamond powder), or
is
with water
and an inch
in thick-
The
is
powder
to
file,
equal in
powder.
The duration
2o6
Book
of Precious Stones
The
skill
required of the
in
An
held
prerequisite
for
grinding
precious
stones is a
steadily
and true
a
For
a time-honoured
tool
called
"dub"). This holder of the rough diamond is a small hemispherical cup of iron attached by the convex side to a stout copper rod. The cup
is filled
lead,
which
be cut
is set
bulk projecting
Thus the stone is firmly fixed in an immovable position. The semi-precious stones, when cut by the lapidary, are set in the
from the metal.
end of a wooden holder, or "
kind of resinous cement.
stick,"
with some
Diamond
in a small
this
wooden box
strength was
Cutting
207
needed to rub two diamonds together, a process called " bruting," so that the attrition un-
shape desired.
first
same
result in
in
one operation.
is
All diamond-cutting
America
while in
by hand
The
modern diamond-cutting inwhen the machine dop or holder was invented. This modern mathe inception of the
still
an imperfect
device,
tin,
but
it
fair size.
cutters
and polishers of
States
now
almost entirely;
it
is
im-
cut in Europe.
The inventor
this
of the
for
sawing diamonds.
2o8
A Book of Precious
Stones
polished
dust are
away and ground to worthless black now saved. The economy effected by
is
illustrated
by
its
use in
CHAPTEE XXVII
IMITATIONS, IMPROVEMENTS,
AND RECONSTRUCTION
/^^OUNTEEFEITING
same motive as counterfeiting coin or paper money, and is easier, because gems have no official characterhigher classes has
istics,
^^
the physical
to but
and chemical
few,
characteristics
are
known
all
laws of
and punitive
ef-
The counterfeiter of precious stones, and the dealer who knowingly and deceptively sells his product for an undue profit, swindle, and
feiting.
successful prosecution
and
suits,
difficult
mat-
ledge
and
14
intent.
An enormous
209
quantity
of
imitation
gems
is
2 lo
Book
of Precious Stones
was
pracfar
and
in
would bring
in
any market.
These imitations
fades
almost
entirely.
Sometimes "
dia-
monds," which are qualified with such prefixes as " Alaska," " Sumatra," " Borneo," or any
other
name
it is
which,
sible
mines might
has long borne the time-honoured name " paste." Merchandise of this peculiar kind
so favourably exhibited in
of
is
showcases by electric
buyer.
these
By
the merchants
who
offer
for sale
called
transparent
imitations
they
are
is
a considerable
demand has
be,
been,
is,
imitated.
Imitations
"strass," derived
and Reconstruction
211
of
formulae
employed
to
create
the brilliant,
heavily
lead-impregnated
glass so
of gems.
strass composition
portions, a fair
as
follows
38.2
53.3
7.8
Red lead
Potassium carbonate
compound
thirty hours
The
requirements are the thoroughness of the previous mixing, the regularity of the temperature,
the duration of the fusion,
cooling.
of
The
is
clear paste
212
A Book
for
of Precious Stones
sapphire
copper oxide
is
also
topaz,
and aquamarine.
The simplest proof that these sophistications are glass is the employment of a file, the use of which could have no effect upon the diamond
or upon any precious stone harder than quartz,
unless by some rough handling a fracture might
be caused.
to
Such a fracture
is
particularly liable
a set stone.
True
might prove
too
upon by the inexperienced. As gems are better conductors of heat than glass,
they abstract the
rapidly,
warmth from
this reason
and
for
also gems,
when
Imitations
breathed upon,
and Reconstruction
a
thicker
it
213
of
acquire
coating
quickly.
more
the
United States
calendar
year
The Production
of Precious Stones in
a recognised authority on
extract
" The test is applicable to a number of minerals, and can be made by any jeweller who will exercise care. Hydrofluoric acid or " white acid " (a mixture of ammonia and hydrofluoric acid) is used. The
come into contact with the skin, as it is very poisonous and highly corrosive, producing painful sores and Ulcers. The stone
acid should never be allowed to
to be tested is
acid washed off. The test is applicable only to diamond, ruby, sapphire, spinel, emerald, aquama-
precious topaz, tourmaline, garnet, and kunzwhich are unaffected by the hydrofluoric acid. The test is not applicable to turquoise and opal, which are rapidly etched or eaten away by this acid, nor to peridot and the quartz gems, as amethyst, false topaz, crystal, agate, etc., which have their surfaces dimmed and require repolishing.
rine,
ite,
214
A
all
Book
of Precious Stones
artificial
made
of
as imitation
etc.,
To M. Antony Jacques, a
France,
is
jeweller of Grenoble,
method that
is
examined,
whether
it is
The most
gen-
glass
will
The author's
ex-
Imitations
and Reconstruction
215
The
ce-
genuine
usually
off-coloured,
fine
stone.
The
the
of
its
pavilion
usually
betrays
As a guard against
This
is
was invented.
The detection
of this com-
and
and
if
soaked in alcohol,
made from
fish-scales.
Substitution
of
other minerals
for
specific
justifica-
shadow of
The
proposed for
zircon,
diamonds
quartz,
include
white
sapphires,
Artifice is
frequently
2i6
Book
of Precious Stones
may remove
Heat
will
and other
pre-
cious stones.
of
brilliant
same influence may whiten and render more an off-coloured or spotted diamond.
are
commonly
dyed,
and
is
by
chemical
aid
exoff-
colourless chalcedony
cellent imitation
converted into an
of the
moss
agate.
An
coloured diamond
to
may
be apparently changed
may
be backed,
improvements.
Far
the
different
is
making
of
them by
artificial
means, with
dis-
gem
that
is
but slightly
from those produced in Nature's laboratory. Although there are distinctions distinguished
cernible
to
the
expert
with
the
aid
of
the
Imitations
and Reconstruction
217
that
contain
the
same
and refractiveness.
sharp distinction
of
imitation
furnace and the synthesis of spinel and chrysoEbelmen from mixtures of alumina and glucina, respectively, using boric acid at very high
tric
beryl by
temperature as a solvent.
silicon fluoride
have also been used to induce combination between silica and other oxides. In this manner topaz, a complex fluo-silicate, has been made by the action of fluoride of silicon upon alumina. The minerals thus formed have usually been very small and of no commercial value. Quite recently, however, rubies have been produced by the fusion of alumina with a trace of chromium oxide in the electric furnace, and the art has progressed to such an extent that the product is now on the market
"
2i8
Book
of Precious Stones
for sale as watch jewels. The electric furnace has also produced another product which, while strictly
speaking not a synthetic gem, yet is essentially an artificial one. Imperfect rubies, chips, and small stones, are fused in the furnace together with the addition of a small amount of colouring oxide such as chromium. The fused product is then cut and polished, and the result is a ruby of good colour and of fairly large size. Emeralds and other coloured stones have been made in the same way, and so promising has the industry become that the courts have been called upon to decide what constitutes a ruby. Their decision was in substance that the word ruby could be legally applied only to the red-coloured corundum, anhydrous oxide of aluminum, occurring ready formed in nature.
and
priced jewelry.
title
or
similar
processes
by
man
is
" scientific
gem
is
may
be.
New York
an American producer of the " reconstructed ruby, which has attained some commercial sue-
Imitations
cess,
and Reconstruction
upon the market
219
and
its effect
for rubies,
lessened
of
When
in the
" reconstructed
and subsequently
United States,
rebuffs; to-day
turers
who
them
grade jewelry.
From
" ruby
I
the small genuine particles of ruby or sand " found with the real rubies in Burma select pieces that are alike in colour and quali-
ties;
"
U "-shaped
one of these chips I place upon the top of a platinum iridium tube. Upon this is
of
oxygen and
hydrogen gas
the latter can usually be substituted gas from the street mains, as it contains a sufficient proportion of hydrogen gas to qualify
for this use with a pressure of eight hundred pounds to the inch, producing a temperature of six thousand degrees F. As soon as the first chip is melted I introduce into the flame at the end of an
it
for
2 20
Book
of Precious Stones
flies
iridium holder a second chip, which when it melts off and adheres to the first melted chip and
The continuation
of this
the
first
chips fused
^varying
pear,
five to ten carats in weight. The operation from one to two hours, according to the size of the stone produced. The most difBcult part of
from
lasts
the process
is
in
which the ruby was produced had the resources of a tremendous sustained heat and a cooling process
unknown duration. In general, Nature's cooling process was too rapid, the evidence being in the minute cracks, called ribbons, which run through most rubies and the absence of which makes the perfect ruby one of the rarest and costliest of stones, especially when the cut gem weighs two carats or more. The cooling process is secret and one of the
of
most important factors in the achievement of the reconstructed ruby. The enlarged ruby is then cut by the lapidary exactly as is the natural ruby, for
it is
the same in
its
tion.
This
is
attested by analysis
made by
very
high scientific authorities, their reports being in my possession and open to the inspection of anyone.
ruby is wholly the result of artiis genuine to the extent of being a properly proportioned combination of the chemical constituents of the natural ruby; in manufacturing the scientific ruby we begin with a solution of common alum, to which a trace of chrome alum is added as the ultimate colouring constituent. No^/ add ammonia, and there results a gelatinous prescientific
ficial
The
means but
Imitations
cipitate of the
and Reconstruction
221
evaporated
down
and subsequently calcined into an intimate mixture of alumina and the oxide of chromium. It is then ground into an impalpable powder, and placed in the transforming apparatus. Through a tube passes a supply of coal-gas, through another tube a supply of oxygen. The two meet where they are ignited, and constitute a carefully regulated flame whose temperature is practically In a box at the top, is two thousand degrees. placed the powdered alumina, and the bottom of this box consists of a fine sieve. A small automatic tapper carefully jars the powder through the sieve and through a tube, which serves for the supply of oxygen. It thus happens that every trace of the powder must pass through the flames of two
to dryness,
thousand degrees.
its
a very high
that:
These properties agree exactly with those of the is one feature by which these stones could be recognised as having been artificially produced and that is by the form of the cavities existing in them, these being always spherical. The cavities in a natural ruby are always of an irregular form, and this would always afford a
natural ruby; but there
;
means of detecting the artificial stone. The stones are rubies and are not imitations, as so many of their predecessors have been. But they
22 2
Book
of Precious Stones
are not natural rubies, even although produced from clippings of the same, since the crystalline growth
is
fused.
The sapphire as well as its sister of the corundum family, the ruby, has for years been
the object of solicitude on the part of scientific
experimentalists,
real sap-
New York
City, the
well-known dealer
in
rarities
is
represented by more
than twenty-five patents, exhibited to the author a " reconstructed sapphire " which, tested merely
sap-
that
of
the
purity
prosuc-
Mr. Petereit's
secret,
Of
the
Petereit
We
real
fallen to an
American to at
sapphire;
last
manufacture a
in
reconstructed
successful
hard-
Imitations
and Reconstruction
make blue
223
countries to successfully
sapphires, and,
although they have been successful up to the cooling point, they always lost their colour and became
gray when cool. Mr. A. H. Petereit has had a German chemist working on a formula of his own for two years past, and has had his efforts at last crowned with
success.
At a meeting
of experts in the
gem
busi-
ness
were placed among the real stones and they had to admit they
the
reconstructed
sapphires
were equal if not superior to the real gems. When Mr. Petereit took up the mineral business his inventive mind was turned into a new channel, the manufacture of artificial gems. Already stories were being told of great successes accomplished in this line, but when it came to produce the stones they failed in one form or another; either the colour or hardness was wanting. The new sapphires he has invented are perfect in every way. The cannot be scratched by the natural sapphire, they have a beautiful deep blue colour, their brilliancy is only equalled by the diamond,
their specific
gravity
is
natural stone.
His success with scientific rubies was due to the he handled were the best in the market. They were made from small natural stones by a secret process and not from aluminum and other chemicals, as many now on the market were.
fact that those
man
article,
22 4
Book
of Precious Stones
and genuine
tional facts,
illustrations
rubies,
by presenting some
addi-
of
On
ficial
arti-
ruby,
we
lines as well as the little bubbles occurring in large numbers, which are always spherical, having, in other words, the character of an air bubble in a The concentric fine lines, showing melted mass. variations in the colour, were compared at the time with the circular or spiral lines that result from the string of a paste-like mass, leaving nothing to
be desired as far as plainness is concerned. A naturally formed genuine ruby also shows spaces or
enclosures, but these are
more or
The anguing bounded by crystalline surfaces. larity of these voids is, moreover, determined by
the
entire
crystalline
structure
of
the
natural
stone.
If, therefore, in the genuine ruby, the colour is unequally distributed, the colour stripes invariably
as
We may
also frequently
note that the colour does not run in one direction, but that colour stripes, often of varying intensity, cross one another at obtuse angles; in other words, correspond strictly with the crystalline
Btructure of the grown stone.
We may
reiterate
"
Imitations
and Reconstruction
225
the assertion that in a genuine natural ruby concentric lines are never noted.
This most important, and at the same time certain and simplest, disis the more to be the specific gravity, the in other colour, the hardness, and the dichroism words, all the optical and chemical properties of
tinguishing
regarded,
characteristic,
inasmuch
as
An
experienced
gem expert
will,
moreover, recognise
rubies.
"Kt the
recent convention of
German
jewellers
in Heidelberg,
precious stones
name
of
the
" Association
of
Jewellers,
of Bavaria,"
opinion of a
schmiedekunst,
has
now been
rendered,
Conrad
226
always exist, a natural, the other an artificial product. Up to the present time, I have not seen a single artificial precious stone that could not Be recognised as such. The claim that the artificial
the material
is
difference will
that one
de-
according
to
my
experience,
is
not
justifiaMe.
Even
if it is
same
crystallographic, phy-
as the natural gems, they are nevertheless not equal in value to the natural product. No more so than an ever so
and
chemical
properties
carefully executed
a work of
etc.,
art,
can
be
called
The
artificial
products,
made
under the same conditions as the natural article, and for this reason we may rest assured that, even should the present scientific methods of distinguishing the genuine from the artificial precious stones
fail,
be the success thus far attained in the production of artificial precious stones, and while we may congratulate ourselves on the progress made in chemical technics in this direction, to the
connoisseur, these articles will always be artificial
may
Imitations
of their value.
and Reconstruction
227
On
natural precious
The claim that synthetic stones will ever break the market for real precious stones, is, in my opinion, utterly unfounded.
CHAPTER XXVIII
FOLK-LOBE
of their density and hardness, gems are among the most permanent of substances, and yet, to a greater degree, per-
DECAUSE
*'
The
associations of
gems
in the
human mind
varied, that
semble
all of
with
many
religions,
its origin
gems can be properly covered under the term and title of "folk-lore." The Bible's many
references to
alike to
Hebrews
Be-
and
Holy Writ.
and metaphorical
use of the
names
The
first is
an
Folk-Lore
two-piece coat of Aaron, the Jewish
to the
229
High
Priest,
front of which
breastplate.
coat
were united
each
shoulder
with
an
Israel, six
on each stone,
the Lord
29.)
memory
them.
of the promise
made by
6,
(Exodus
xxviii.,
12,
The
breastplate
the ephod,
form a kind of
were
and Perfection
placed.
(Exodus xxxix.,
of this gorget, or
was
set
and hav-
ing engraved
upon
it
the
name
of one of the
xxviii., 17-20.)
(Exodus
Report of the United States National Museum, for 1896, page 943, are given as in the
ten for the
original
and
in the Septuagint,
together with
the
is
:
being as follows
Odem
(sardion), car-
230
Pitdah (topazion)
{smaragdos)
topaz or peridot.
3.
Bareketh
(carbuncle emerald).
ruby
feiros),
6.
(ruby,
carbuncle).
5.
Sappir
{sap
sapphire
or
lapis
lazuli
(sapphire)
Yahalom
{jaspis), onyx,
7.
a kind of chalcedon
(diamond, sardonyx).
Leshem
9.
{ligyrion)
8
(jacinth, amber).
Shebo
{achates)
agate.
10.
Achlama
Tarshish
{ame-
thystos),
amethyst.
{chryso
(beryl, chalce-
dony).
beryl).
11.
Shoham
12.
Yashpeh {onychion)
jasper.
in
It should
many
names of gems is uncertain in the nomenclature of modern mineralogy, therefore there are several lists of names given for the stones in the
breastplate.
There
is
an ancient
silver breast-
plate employed as an
Museum.
names
as follows:
Folk-Lore
amethyst,
231
chrysolite,
Gad;
jasper,
Benjamin;
Dan;
beryl, Asher.
is
Then there
of the
list
kiel xxviii.,
1,
lorn; 4,
TarsMsh;
8,
Sappir;
Nofehj
9,
In
the
description
the
Heavenly City,
Revised
Version
in
parentheses:
1,
Chalkedon, chalcedony;
;
4,
Smaragdos, sma6,
ragd (emerald)
dios,
5,
Sardonyx, sardonyx;
Chrysolithos,
8ar8,
sardius;
7,
chrysolite;
chrysoprase;
;
11,
Hyakinthos, jacinth
(sapphire)
12,
Amethystos, amethyst.
232
Book
of Precious Stones
word used
New
by
Many and various powers have been ascribed man to gems; powers curative, talismanic,
;
be
made
to be potent reme-
The
latter superstition is
hard
to kill in
and
survives
and Christian
countries.
to invest
courdis-
wisdom, strength, or
Gems were
connected with
or
astrology,
tain days.
White
stones, the
diamond
excepted,
the day
Mars
was
was
for amethysts;
the day of Venusowned the emerald; Saturday Saturn's day claimed the diamond;
Friday
Folk-Lore
while the
233
topaz
propriate to Sunday,
Particular
gems were
fluence
human
anatomy.
The potency
was increased
the natal
its partic-
stone
attract
propitious
to
in-
fluences
off evil.
Gems
and
which were
their periods of
Amethyst,
21st.
Pisces;
February
21st
to
to
March
Bloodstone, Aries;
March 21st
21st to
April 20th.
May
21st.
21st.
Agate, Gemini;
May
June
AquamaDecember
Topaz, Saggitarius ;
21st.
November 21st
to
uary 21st,
234
An
Jewish
stones,
when each was engraved with an anagram of the name of God, a mystical influence
with,
and a prohetical
as
follows:
angels,
ruby,
Malchediel;
topaz,
Asmodel;
erald,
carbuncle
(garnet),
Ambriel;
em-
Muriel;
sapphire,
Herchel;
diamond,
jasper, Barchiel.
Peter, jasper;
Andrew, sapphire;
amethyst;
St.
James, chalcedony;
St. St.
Matthew,
Thaddeus,
topaz;
St.
Thomas,
St.
beryl;
chrysoprase;
James the
St.
Less,
Simeon,
hyacinth;
Matthias,
ac-
is
sapphire;
May,
emerald;
June,
agate;
July,
ruby;
August,
sardonyx;
Folk-Lore
invested
235
qualities fol-
lows
Agate.
cal to
venomous things;
and
quality that
should
make
it
renders
sanity
its
and eloquent.
would cure
in-
The
its
possessor eloquent
agreeable."
Amber was
ache,
fits,
scrofula,
and jaundice.
its
The amethyst
colour in con-
emblematic of sinceritylost
tact with poisons,
and was an antidote for them. It dispelled sleep, sharpened the wits, and promoted chastity; while being a sure preventive
Beryl was the favourite stone
future and reviewed the
if
of intoxication.
past.
The bloodstone,
236
A Book
of Precious Stones
was also a
it
Carnelian
harmony;
and
colic
it
should thus
an ass
it
Chrysoberyl
asthma.
Ohrysoprase
was good
for gout.
The
qualities ascribed
of curing
insanity; powdered
frice
was an
excellent dentiin
and
it
cured epilepsy.
In Burma, and
diamond was
The
and used
to
the eyes.
known
to be the agent
Jade
in
and
Folk-Lore
would
save
its
237
Jet
wearer
from drowning.
as an eyestone
The pearl
diseases.
cured
skin
and
United States,
invested
many
persons,
"vital
which
is
in
New York
eyes,
State
is
according to Wirt
particularly
as
a panacea;
hemor-
by mystics,
to
and other
like fakirs,
jure
up distant
The ruby
is
The wearer
accident insurance,
Zircon stimulates
sin.
238
A
in
and malign influences of precious stones; the modern Western spiritualists, who draw upon the Oriental treasure-house
the virtues
of occultism, are said to give credit to
gems
for
school in
radiance,
and
crystals,
is
and a Dr.
de
the author of a
properties
and
influences
of
precious
CHAPTEE XXIX
FAVOTJEITE
QENTIMENT
values of gems,
and
it
siderable extent,
gems with
royal personages
and people otherwise famous; the favour of the great has sometimes had an
important effect upon the market value of precious
stones,
and
in
another,
markable
human
fills
experiences,
The
full
diamond
the leading
rfile
in this historical
pertaining to
it
that
is
worthy of
notice, that is
illus-
240
Book
of Precious Stones
Louis
Duke
of
Anjou possessed a
regal array
of jewels; in
skill
When
and
his
the
Duke
of
the noble
souvenirs
the
entertainment
skill
as the art of
was capable
of,
and
set in gold.
Pope Sixtus IV. was the recipient of the second diamond sent to be cut, in 1475, by
Charles the Bold,
Duke
of
Burgundy,
by
to Louis
his con-
de Berquem of Bruges
regarded
The
to
first
of the trio of
famous stones
is
said
have been the historic " Beau Sancy " ; the third diamond was presented to Louis XI. of
France.
"
"
were
the
twelve
jewels,
thickest
French crown
Gems
of Distinguished People
II.,
241
Pope Julius
in 1500,
owned a diamond on
is
The
first
French woman
to lead fashion as
Agnes
Sorrel,
famous
in
Subsequently, under
in
this
its
Francis
in
I.,
extravagance
society
particular
French
reached
climax,
and
the
Henry
IV.,
were drafted to
form of extravagance.
Earl Dudley owned one of the sev-
The
late
eral large
from the diamond mines of South Africa; this stone was first famous as " The Star of South
Africa " ;
it
size of
a small walnut,
when
in the rough,
and weighed
83%
is
carats;
cutting reduced
to
46%
carats.
contributed
by the record of
founder of the
dia,
including a great
number
of
diamonds of vast
42
Book
of Precious Stones
it
said, acquired exclusively by plunder. The famous " Eugenie " diamond purchased
III.,
it
its
merchant named
it
to the French
the
of
For some
in
time
celebrated stone
was owned
America,
New
The
stone
York City, Messrs. Joseph Frankel's Sons. American owners admitted the sale of the
the price or the identity of the purchaser,
if
made
public, must
of Tur-
The Sultan
Mr.
Gems
Edwin W.
is
of Distinguished People
243
by virtue of his
on
this
cious Stones
and Gems,
in
a chapter entitled
This author
Hope
weighed in
it
and
in 1668
was sold
mond
The present name of this diaHenry Thomas Hope, a London banker, who bought it in 1830
is
Louis XIV.
Among
of a
is
the
It
is
in
the
AuForty
Another
famous
forty-carat
stone
is
the
and
brilliant
diamond, the
"
244
Book
of Precious Stones
Yassopouff;
it
was
present ownership, by
Emperor Paul
by revolting radicals in
his do-
main,
may
These include two magnificent rose-cut stones, the " Daryaa vast treasure of jewels rare.
i-nur," or "
186
Crown
of the
carats.
of Austria, beginning
the
the
royal
house
of
Austria
the
known
as
" Austrian
Yellow "
and
the
" Tuscan
diamond.
The " Florentine " was formerly owned by the Grand Duke of Tuscany.
CHAPTER XXX
GEM MINERALS AND GEMS IN MUSEUM COLLECTIONS
\ /ISUAL and palpable examination of gems and gem minerals is most desirable, if one
would have a thorough understanding of gemology, for all that the best of books can teach
must
Fortunately
for
those
who abide
in
or
sojourn
museums
America which
gem
of
minerals,
and
in
New York
cational institution,
fine collec-
is
it.
a delight to the
who
sees
and
book
made
in
this
some
feel
246
for
all
A
to
Book
of Precious Stones
practical
their scientific
and common-sense
men
of wealth,
who
by
this magnifi-
made
the study
easy that
it
runs
Yorli
may
owe
read."
in
New
the
to the generosity of
Mr. Morgan
stones
under
Universal
Paris.
1889
and 1900
at
incor-
Gem Room
at the
museum.
In connection with
of his public
these exhibits,
pre-
museum
Gem
collection of
Minerals in
Museums
247
Mr. Clarence
S.
Bement, of Phila-
delphia,
among American
in the
and
vies
(especially
and appropriate
W. Bruce
of
New York
this is
City,
who
Fund;
American Museum
of Natural History,
is
The
de-
velopment of minerals
is
a satisfaction
of Nat-
know that
in the
American Museum
ural History, as in other " live " kindred institutions, the collection of minerals develops
and
improves rapidly, as
is
well
known
it
to those
who
to
year by year.
exist associa-
interesting, of
which the
member
as
the
New York
meet-
Club,
which
hold
educative
248
Book
the
of Precious Stones
in
ings where
many ways contribute information, and which make field study trips to localities known to be
productive of specimens of interest.
visit the collections at the
Department of Mineralogy,
of the museum. For more extensive information applicable to this collection and institution, and to similar ones, a most profitable investment would be the book
to
The growth
fairly repre-
valuable acces-
of malachite
was the most remarkable group of specimens and azurite donated by the Copper
of Ari-
Gem
same donor,
in
is
Minerals in
Museums
249
whole collection;
hall.
was purchased in the year 1891, which doubled the number of specimens possessed by the museum, and added many new varieties and kinds of minerals. In
zona, the
Spang
collection
many
valuable adin
museum
Bement
of
and exquisite
taste
which
commoner minerals
and the exceptional perfection of the specimens. While the rock-bottom upon which modern
mineralogy
is
founded
is
chemical law,
is
it
might
its
foundation,
grouped together, in
hibition
;
and,
25o
similar
Book
of Precious Stones
or
physical
crystallographic
features
To quote
Professor Gratacap:
The forms
characteristic.
most obvious
The
beryl crystals, the rhomboidal or trapezoidal faces of garnet, the triangular faces of magnetite and
The branch
tallography
lished,
of mineral science
known
as crysestab-
is
it
now
has
well developed
and
and
been
demonstrated
that
crystal
form has a
at
close dependence
ical composition.
The arrangement
mens
the
American and
the
Museum
of
is
Natural
exemp-
classification
of
sixth
edition
of
Dana's
System of Mineralogy.
An
intelligent inspec-
museum,
for the
to-
crystals are
Gem
could do.
Minerals in
Museums
museum who
251
are in
the jewelry trade are likely to view with particular interest the choice specimens of gold ex-
1,
where
it
appears in
in braided filaments
made up
;
of
frequently
it
attached to quartz,
around
which
curls like
besides
Case No. 27
New York
gem
gem
it
quality.
is
the
of
is
not as
broadly
representative
the
semi-precious
of
the
appearance
of
typical
gem
gems through
252
A Book of Precious
Stones
is
AND JEWELLERS
CHAPTER XXXI
OUR DIAMOND CUTTBES AND THEIE TEADE UNION
TTHE
*
many
workmen, upon
whom
their employers
skill,
and
The diamond
cutters in
union
is in
of such organisations.
of
diamonds
scien-
tific
employed in the work and their processes were evolved into a distinct and recognised industry. In the year 1815 the leading diamond
tisans
cutters
of
2 54
Book
of Precious Stones
with,
a score of apprentices,
and organised
The
when
it
When
the first
diamonds
rose,
and diamond
to
The trade
in
many new
the
Amsterdam only secured the lead as Diamond City after a keen commercial and
was waged, with varying fortunes, for many The workmanship of the diamond cutters and polishers of the Amsterdam factories is first
years.
Diamond
class
Cutters'
Trade Union
255
the world.
The diamond
Amsterdam
is
of
many
industrial dis-
and
trials,
hundred workmen,
in
factories.
members
of
the union,
Amsterdam, distributed
among
is
some eighty
who
are elected by
These
treasurer,
and
second
treasurer;
duty
to investigate
violation of a
re-
diamond industry. The Amsterdam union was organised in November, 1894, after a simultaneous strike of all the operatives. The strike
and union followed a commercial depression of
the
of wages.
256
in
of
Amsterdam
when diamonds were found in known in the trade " as the Cape time," the demand for the skilled labour of the cutters was so great that wages were increased so that the diamond cutters were
the discovery,
two hundred
to six hundred
now employed
in
New York
in
Amsterdam during
The eighty-five hundred diamond workers of Amsterdam are divided into ten branches, known
as follows:
No.
1,
3, brilliant
rose cutters ;
polishers;
7, 9,
rose setters
cleavers,
8, six-
and
eight-
face
or
splitters;
and
10, sawyers.
Each
own
members
in the ex-
When
the
Diamond
Cutters'
immigrant
dia-
mond workers, mostly from Amsterdam, As soon as there was a sufficient number of diamond workers here to form a numerically
respectable organisation, which
was
in 1895, the
men
The Dingley
cent,
Tariff,
it
American importers
monds cut
and cut
a recognised industry.
ised,
although
successful
inception,
many
the
different
nationalities
and customs,
then
and
individual
learned the
judices
common
interest.
The present union is entitled The Diamond Workers Protective Union of America, and was
organised September 16, 1902.
three
258
Book
of Precious Stones
Most
of the
ployed in
New York
Boston, Chicago,
and Cincinnati.
There
is
but
little of
elec-
changes.
the
is the
re-
their
seven
employees,
rare
occurrence.
No
member
employment
On November 15, 1903, was organised the Universal Diamond Workers' Alliance, with a
membership
in of fifteen thousand,
by representalocal unions
from
Amsterdam,
St.
Holland;
Antwerp,
Belgium;
Paris,
Claude, Divonne,
Diamond
Cutters'
Trade Union
259
London,
England; and
New
of the
When a member
titles
him
to
entitled
to
immediately participate in
union
may
aflEord.
Re-
Board
The
in other countries
and are
assessed, if necessary,
so
the
workers in
If
diamond industry
is
promptly cabled.
If
employers
Diamond
Cutters'
26o
union.
and
conflicts,
were regulated.
in these
recourse
in the United
its
all the
diamond-
diamond workers.
resumed operations.
Dur-
families to
workmen in the trade returned with their Amsterdam and Antwerp, where they
the beginning of the panic of 1907 the
cutters'
At
American diamond
Diamond
Cutters'
Trade Union
261
union in
fund of $15,000.
OHAPTEE XXXII
JEWELRY IN THE ARTS AND CEAFTS MOVEMENT
THE
it
is
unless
or hung as a pendant.
is
Mounting and
setting
There
is
almost as
much
variation
is
To a great extent the metal mountings for gems are stamped out in dies or are otherwise machine-made, but no matter how deserving
of praise the original design, the finished article,
to the eye artistic, is " commercial."
Within a
art, in
other directions than in the field of things considered as exclusively its province, has invaded
Movement
263
their
is
partly
identified
eral arts
and
crafts
movement, but, as
is
always
become
its
products, heralded by
them as "
worse
easily
than
" commercial."
Pretenders
can
But honest
efforts are
made by
and
of student craftsmen,
to
hands
to the
a degree of
skill
up
set
for
the
The
movement deserve the respect, the encouragement, and the co-operation of gem dealers and of the jewelry trade throughout. As it has been well said by Professor Oliver Oummings Farrington in his Oems and Oem
crafts
Minerals :
There is room, however, for the development of a much higher taste in these matters than exists at present. The average buyer is content to know
264
Book
of Precious Stones
that the article which he purchases contains a sapphire, emerald, or diamond, representing so much intrinsic value, without considering whether the best use of it, from an artistic point of view, has
been
made;
or
whether
for
the
same
outlay
much more
obtained from other stones. In the grouping of gems, with regard to effects of colour, lustre, texture, etc. certain combinations often seen are far from ideal, while others rarely seen would be admirable. Thus a combination of the diamond and turquoise is not a proper one, since the opacity of the latter stone deadens the lustre of the former. The cat's-eye and diamond make a better combination, and so do the more familiar diamond and pearl. Colourless stones, such as the diamond or topaz, associate well with deep-coloured ones, such
as amethyst and tourmaline, each serving to give
light and tone to the other. Diamond and opal as a rule detract from each other when in combination, since each depends upon " fire " for its
attractiveness.
of
a jour
light) and the encased mount. The ordinary manner of setting gems in rings, the stone held
by a
a view of
it,
or through
from
all
points,
illustrates the
Movement
This
is
265
best adapted
the light.
ting are
and
these,
Opaque
is
set in
a metal bed,
While
to
machinery
is
some degree anything fashioned by open to the detracting term " com-
much
artistic merit in
and
entirely by
a serious feature,
is
a revelation
of
and a hopeful sign that the jewelry of the future in America will conform more to true artistic ideals and serve less as a
present attainments,
medium
for
mere ostentatious
display.
An
ex-
hibition of the
work
266
The
exhibits of the
dis-
in
silver
Kohn
of
New York
was
awarded by a committee of
trustees,
who
acted
of the medal
work executed
given
to
Mr.
The
first
class in jewelry,
hammered
in
metal,
the DepartInstitute,
ment
in
of Fine
instructor
and evening
classes.
Mr.
#^
I
PRIZE DESIGN
WORK OF FREDERICK
E.
BAUER, STUDENT,
JEWELRY
Movement
267
with
City.
Messrs.
Tiffany
York
class,
He
position
Island.
Hamann was
work
charge of
all
He has
proved himself an
Mr.
Hamann
being
is
an expert jeweller by
connected
profession,
formerly
with
Durand & Company, Newark, N. J., and later with Tiffany & Company, New York. In 1889 he went to Europe and studied modelling in Munich for one and a half years, going from
there to Paris,
where he studied
New
York.
Mr.
Hamann
was one of the eight statues on the Triumphal Bridge at the Pan-American Exposition at
Buffalo.
At
St.
268
ical of
A Book of Precious
Wyoming
is
Stones
in
and
he
also
sculptor
the
the
figure
of
Modern
Building.
Art
Mr.
on
permanent
is
Fine
Arts
Hamann
a member of the
He
brings to the
originality
and
artistic
professional
artist.
class.
Company,
hammered work
in
Mr.
Hamann
steadily
The
classes
have
in
grown
in
efficiency.
securing
employment.
Many have
opened
GOLD PENDANT WITH PKAELS PEARL (OLD chain) GOLD RING, WITH OPAL AND EMERALDS BY MRS. EDNAH S. Q. HIGGINSON
The Society
of Arts
and
Crafts, Boston
Movement
269
to
own and fill orders that come them from many and varied sources.
The courses are planned
those
to
who wish
jewelry, enamelling,
cious
They give
the setting of stones, enamelling and finishing, and in the methods and practice of technical
work
in metal.
Instruction
is
also given
in
The increasing demand for applied art work in useful objects, and the diflOLculty experienced
by manufacturers in securing the services of
skill
and
advancement to those who have had the advantage of such training as these courses give.
no longer adequate.
The apprennecessary
acquires
little
skill
to
270
but, as
Book
of Precious Stones
ornamental metal
artistic
skill in
work
of the shop
must be
sup-
By
alternating
inspiration
work in modelling and design shows the adjustment and illumination that come from constant
contact with practical problems.
to
and who can supplement the technical skill which he would gain in the shop by the work
in drawing, modelling,
to the
art student
who
is
The opening
offered to such
man
practically assured to
to the
Movement
271
and applied
work.
historic ornament,
and
in applied
All
work
is
cast in plaster,
silver,
is
in
copper,
or gold.
buttons,
brooches,
etc.,
the
work being
stones.
In
own
in
tools
hammered metal work, students make their and produce shallow and deep objects
silver,
like,
copper and
including trays,
bowls,
spoons,
and the
repouss
chasing.
such
as
Instruction
silver,
is
and
gold.
is
All
work
manner.
272
lar
Book
of Precious Stones
give
evidence of originality,
for the course.
and general
fitness
The
classes
meet
for
work
daily,
except
Instruc-
The
an additional laboratory
term
for
There
fall
The
for
Instruction
is
and
gold.
Instruction
is
also
given in jewelry.
The
of
class meets on
Monday,
to 9.30 p.m.,
last of
from the
March.
last
week
September to the
The
Movement
273
all
material
used
by
students
in
class.
lyn Club of
tions,
Ye Handicraf ters
at
"
in its exhibi-
held
the
club's
Institute, are
shown some
of the
work
is
of these crafters.
There
Cooper Union in
direction of Mr.
New York
Edward
session.
City
under the
Ehrle.
The Cooper
a two hours'
by the pupils
school
is
constantly encouraged.
Monday
May
15th.
The
the
At
of jewelry in
and near
New York
City
is
the
Cooper Union
18
Museum
2 74
tion,
Book
of Precious Stones
this
a subsidiary institution of
is
famous old
this institution is
however
It is
known.
one person in
many thousands
of the inhabitants
and freedom
it.
to
all
who
are
The contents
thousands
of this
museum would
astonish
who
and
Museum
of Art,
the
strong
feat-
museum
is
a collection
like
all
of
scrap-books,
open,
else
Movement
fertile
275
for
many
excellent
designs,
in
ideas
bracelets,
chatelains,
tiaras,
clasps,
lockets,
combs,
crowns,
head
ornaments,
dress
and
engraved ornaments, knots and bowknots, earrings, girdles, belts, boops, rings, necklaces, pen-
and watches.
this vol-
ume
is
nately, but
listed are to be
at Pratt Institute or
subject of jewelry, is the Society Library in University Place, near Thirteenth Street,
City.
New York
Manhattan Island's oldest library, was founded by King George II., and his repreThis,
sentative
of the
who was
Colony of
New
York.
The family
and he
is
of ex-
at this
time an active
member
books,
of
to
art
selected
of
with
special
reference
the requirements
is
artists
and
handicraftsmen,
There
is
276
Book
of Precious Stones
is
known
in
now
held
Street,
tliat is
New York
good work
of various schools
and
School,
of
class of Miss
Grace Hazen
Gloucester, Mass.
At Newark, N. J., an industrial city which among its industries considerable jewelry manufacturing, there is the Newark Techniincludes
cal
New
In Boston there
to
is
continuous encouragement
influence
recent exhibition
and most
the
interesting
display
of
American jewelry,
Movement
277
was a
gems
is
and would
New
to see
some
work
at
Among
pen-
designs exhibited,
chains,
necklaces,
dants,
numerous
the
some
of
them conIn
taining precious
and semi-precious
stones.
of these crucifixes,
shown by Mabel
278
Book
of Precious Stones
W.
Luther.
exhibited
" butterfly
which
Florence
the
in
gold
mounting.
A.
the
de-
Richmond and Jessie Lane Burbank from workshop in Park Square exhibited pieces
serving honourable mention.
The
President,
Howard
is
Mr.
In Providence, K.
I.,
New
Eng-
is
a jewelry
Young Men's
Christian Association,
School, and
years the
New England Manufacturing Jewellers and Silversmiths' Association has annually offered a
sum
of
^^^^^Hj^^^^^^^H^H^^^^^^^H
Movement
279
of
is
an institution important
in its relation
The instruction
and
for casting,
includes the
flat
making and
rings,
finishing of oval
gold
band
modelling
signets,
and
all
such repairing as
is
in
who has
wrought products about three hundred pieces were exhibited, including bronze and copper
20
whose
freely bestowed.
West school, that is and enabling the ambitious and earnest young worker to design and make jewelry that come up to an artistic
progress of this Middle
successfully uplifting ideals
standard, as follows:
Three years ago there was formed in Indianapolis a " Society of Arts and Crafts " with a very promising membership. A house was rented and furnished and salesrooms opened. The movement grew and a large number of the right kind of people
became interested. Unfortunately, however, there were so very few of the members who were craftsmen or in any way producers of salable stuff that everything had to be gotten on consignment from
outside.
Like so
many
and through mismanagement, the society did not live long. During its life, however, it had started a number of earnest people to thinking and had given them the desire not only to raise their standards of beauty in both useful and decorative objects, but to express their own thought and individuality. My father and I had taken great interest in the movement and had made a number of pieces of jewelry for the salesroom. When we were asked to start a class, teach the use of tools, and show how origi-
Movement
We
281
we were
started with a
class of five, all of whom were art teachers in the high schools here. I might say in passing we had over seventy-five applicants this fall.
As we conduct a manufacturing jewelry business, our shop is well equipped for all kinds of metal work. We have a bench for each worker where all the small tools, hammers, wax blocks, and punches are kept and also several large vises and anvils for
the large copper work.
kinds of other for any work. As the class is only a sort of pastime for us we have it at night and charge almost nothing for
all
and
tuition.
The worker first designs the piece and selects the and material to be used. After the design has been criticised it is transferred to metal and executed. We have no class problems or lectures. All the pieces and all the criticism are individual. In that way we do not allow any worker to leave
stones
a piece until it is well executed. Most of the workers are so interested in the work that they have their own workshops and tools at home, and a number of them have not only produced some very creditable pieces but have made
good money in doing it. At the end of each term, that is just before Christmas and in June, we have an exhibit and sale of the class work. We send out copper plate invitations and make
a social affair of
it
and succeed
in
selling
most
ere-
We
have
282
Book
of Precious Stones
much
encouraged to carry
it
along.
From many
now
receiv-
case in
point
is
the offering
annually by
New York
most
proficient
United States.
At
the
suggestion
of
Hon.
Oscar
Straus,
Labour,
it is
said:
Prof.
John Monaghan,
service,
for
has
de-
tions
and
at technical institutions
which have
at
jewelry
classes
or
courses.
While consul
school the
and be supplanted by
Movement
283
in our
that, instead of
citizens,
would be economically
Mr. Borglum points
Museum
of Art with
collections
APPENDIX
ALPHABETICAL LIST OF GEM MINERALS
(According to Wirt Tassin)
Achirite, see Dioptase.
Achroite,
line.
see
Tourma-
see
Tourma-
see
Apophyllite.
Asteria, see
Corundum.
Agatized
Quartz.
Alabaster, see
wood,
Aragonite,
Gypsum.
Alaska
diamond,
see
Quartz.
Alexandrite, see Chrysoberyl.
Aventurine, see
clase.
O li g oO r t h o-
Allanite.
Aventurine, see
clase.
Banded
Quartz.
Barite.
agate,
see
Corundum.
Anatase, see Octahedrite.
286
Benitoite.
Appendix
Chlorastrolite, see Prehnite.
Beryl.
Beryllonite.
Chlorophane,
rite.
see
Fluo-
Chondroite.
Chromic
iron.
Chrysoberyl.
Bowenite, see
tine.
Serpensee
see
Chrysocolla.
Chrysolite, see Olivine.
Brazilian
diamond,
Chrysolite
(Oriental),
Quartz.
Brazilian
Brazilian
see Chrysoberyl.
emerald, Tourmaline.
pebble,
Cinnamon
see
net.
Quartz.
Bronzite.
Citrine quartz,
Quartz.
Coal.
Cobaltite.
see
Brookite.
Carbonate of
Lime.
Callainite, see Turquoise.
Congo emerald,
tase.
see Diop-
Cancrinite.
Lime.
Cornelian, see Quartz.
Corundum.
Crocidolite.
Cymophane,
beryl.
see Chryso-
D amour ite.
Datolite.
Appendix
Demantoid,
net.
287
d'amour,
see
see G
r-
P1
fi c h e Quartz.
Diamond.
Diaspore.
Dichroite, see lolite.
Fluorite.
Diopside.
Dioptase.
Disthene, see Kyanite.
Turquoise,
see
Odontolite.
Dumortierite.
Dysluite, see Spinel.
Egyptian
Quartz.
jasper, see
Garnet.
Girasol, see
Emerald, see Beryl. Emerald, (Brazilian), see Tourmaline. Emerald (Congo), see
Dioptase.
Corundum.
Gold.
Gypsum.
Harlequin opal, see Opal.
Heliotrope, see Quartz.
Helolite, see Oligoclase.
Epidote.
Essonite, see Garnet.
Euclase.
Hematite.
Hercynite, see Spinel. Hiddenite, see S p d u-
Eye
mene. Hornblende. Hornstone, see Quartz. Hyacinth, see Garnet. Hyacinth, see Zircon.
288
Appendix
Lintonite, see
ite.
1 i-
Thomson-
see O
dumene.
Lithoxyle, see Opal.
Lodestone,
ite.
see
Magnet-
Ichthyophthalmite,
Apophyllite.
Idocrase,
ite.
see
Made,
see Andalusite.
Magnetite.
see
Vesuvian-
Malachite.
Ilmenite.
Indicolite,
line.
see
Tourma-
Marekanite, see
ian.
Obs
d-
lolite.
Iris,
see Quartz.
Isopyre.
Jade.
Mocha
Moonstone, see
clase.
1 i
o-
Moonstone, see
clase.
Ortho-
Leopardite,
see
P o r-
Moss agate, see Quartz. Moss opal, see Opal. Mountain mahogany, see
Obsidian.
Muller's glass, see Opal.
phyry.
Lepidolite.
Appendix
Natrolite.
289
Pseudonephrite,
Jade.
Pyrite.
see
Obsidian.
Octahedrite.
Odontolite.
Oligoclase.
Olivine.
Khodonite.
Rock
Carbonate of
lime.
Opal.
see
Tourma-
Carbonate of
Pegmatite.
Peridot, see Olivine.
Peristerite, see Albite.
Quartz.
Idolite.
Porphyry.
290
Appendix
Thetis'-hair
stone,
see
Quartz.
Thomsonite.
Thulite, see Epidote.
Tiger-eye,
lite.
see
Crocido-
Titanite.
Toad's-eye
stone,
see
wood,
see
Cassiterite.
Quartz.
Smithsonite.
Topaz.
Topaz
(false),
see
Smoky
Sodalite.
quartz, see
Quartz.
Quartz.
Topaz
see
(Scotch), see
Sphaerulite,
ian.
Obsid-
Quartz.
Topaz
(smoky), see
see
Quartz.
Topaz
Spodumene.
Stalagmite, see Carbonate of lime.
(Spanish), Quartz.
dum.
Star sapphire, see Corun-
Turquoise.
Turquoise Turquoise
(bone),
(fossil),
see
dum.
Staurolite.
Odontolite.
see
Succinite, see
Amber.
Odontolite.
see
Appendix
Variolite,
clase.
2gi
see Ortho-
Wernerite, see
lite.
Soapo-
Variscite.
Willemite.
Venus'-hair
stone see
Wilsonite, see
lite.
Scap
o-
Quartz.
Wolf's-eye
stone,
see
Vesuvianite.
Crocidolite.
Volcanic glass,
sidian.
see
Ob-
Wood
rite.
tin,
see
Gassite-
Zircon.
lo-
Zonochlorite,
nite.
see
Preh-
LIST OF IMPORTANT
GEMS ACCORDING TO
COLOURS
Black
Gems According
Spinel.
to
Colours
293
Talc
6.
Gypsum
Calcite
Fliiorite
7.
8.
9.
3.
4.
5.
Apatite
10.
Corundum Diamond
29S
Diamond
(Hya-
Gem
Minerals
Rock Crystal
Chalcedony Agate
Refraction
299
im-
On an
of
a gram of the
%, %, %, and
so on
down
to one
grams
is
The fourth
part of a carat
known
though this
is
In France
one ounce.
to
being
made
gram
and
it is
of precious stones
may
be universally standardised.
301
3 o2
Carat' s
Weight in Various
in
Localities
Locality
Carat's
Weight in Various
Localities
303
pennyweights.
calculated
by the grain
Pearls are weighed and their values (i/4 carat). Diamonds are
ers," etc.
designated in the trade as " grainers," " two graina " four grainer " is a diamond weighing
;
one carat.
The practice
in the
Troy. The new metric carat, which probably eventually become the universally
CRYSTALLOGRAPHY
SYSTEMS OF CETSTALLINB FORM
1.
304
Birth Stones
It will insure you constancy, True friendship and fidelity.
FEBRUARY
The February born shall find, Sincerity and peace of mind Freedom from passion and from
If they the
care,
MARCH
Who
in this world of ours their eyes In March first open, shall be wise, In days of peril firm and brave,
And wear
APRIL
Those who in April date their years, Sapphires should wear, lest bitter tears For vain repentance flow. This stone Emblem of faithfulness is known.
MAY
Who
first beholds the light of day In spring's sweet flowery month of May, And wears an emerald all her life,
JUNE
Who
And owes
Birth Stones
305
With ring of agate on her hand, Can health, with wealth, and peace command.
JULY The glowing ruby should adorn
Those
who
in
Thus they
shall be
From
all love's
AUGUST
for thee
The August-born, without this stone, must live unloved and lone.
SBPTBMBBE
maiden born when autumn's leaves Are rustling in September's breeze. Chrysolite on her brow should bind,
'Twill cure affections of the mind.
OCTOBER
October's child
is
And
must know; But lay an opal on her breast. And hope will lull the woes to rest.
life's
vicissitudes
NOVBMBEH
Who
With
first
dull
3o6
Birth Stones
Should wear topaz of amber hue, of friends and lovers true.
Emblem
DBCBMBBE
If cold
December gave you birth, The month of snow and ice and mirth, Place on your hand a turquoise blue Success will bless whate'er you do.
BIBLIOGRAPHY
BIBLIOGRAPHICAL NOTE
Since one book cannot possibly comprehend all it may be of service to some of our readers to supply a full bibliography, like that which follows, a bibliography that will enable them easily to acquire information on special phases, or advance to a liberal education on the entire subject. It should be said, however, that an
the phases of a large subject,
was ever
printed about gems, even with the aid of illustraline, half-tone, and colour-work of the most advanced stage of reproductive pictorial art cannot thoroughly inform the student without close
gem stones and cut gems themselves. The most comprehensive book about gems ever written is undoubtedly Precious Stones by Dr. Max Bauer. The original of this monumental work was first published in parts under the title Edelsteinhunde in 1895 and 1896, in Germany, but was subsequently translated into English by L. J. Spencer, of the mineral department of the British Museum, and published in 1904 in London, and a little later in this country. With interest, pride, and pleasure Americans may read the initial sentence of Dr.
study of the
307
3o8
Bibliography
:
" The Bauer's introduction to his book, as follows desire of the publishers to present to the German public a work on precious stones, similar in char-
admirably supplied in American by George Frederic Kunz's Gems and Precious Stones of North America, gave the initiative to the writing of the present book." That the foremost expert on American gems should be an American, designated as its official authority by the United States Government, and accepted as such abroad, and that this American should possess the literary ability to disseminate the knowledge he has gathered in a popular as well as strictly scientific fashion, and should have directly caused the production of the most authoritative book on the gem subject, may be a source of satisfaction to
acter
to
that
literature
his compatriots
who
are patriotic in
of
all
things as
The
ard,
basis
of
is
much
about gems
stand-
Dana,
System
This text-book,
Precious Stones of North America to cover the phase of the general subject involving American gems, contains all important facts about gems and gem minerals, exclusive of recent mineralogical and
other pertinent scientific discoveries. associate to this trio would be the
States National
valuable
Descriptive
Museum, by Wirt Tassin, Assistant Curator of the Division of Mineralogy. This was reprinted by the Government Printing Office at
Bibliography
309
Washington, in 1902, from The Report of the United States National Museum for 1900. This report is out of print as a separate publication, but would be available through the acquisition of the annual report named, or should be obtainable in any
extensive public library.
The following bibliography combines two lists of works on the subject in hand compiled respectively by Mr. A. P. Griffin, Chief Bibliographer of the Division of Bibliography, Library of Congress, and Mr. Wirt Tassin, to both of whom the author gratefully acknowledges his indebtedness.
BIBLIOGEAPHT
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(Ahmed Ben).
(Rabbi).
Abbn
Ezra
Commentarium
Abich (H.). De Spinello. Berolini (Berlin), 1831. Abler (C, and Casanowicz). Precious stones of the Bible. [In Biblical Antiquities, Report, U. S. National
Agostini
p. 943.]
et
sculptural
antiquse.
Frane-
Agricola (G.).
tura coram
1558.
(H. C). Philosophie occulte. [Translated by Levasseur.] La Haye (The Hague), 1655. Contains material relating to the mystical properties of gems. Alamus ab Insulis (Alain de Lisle). Dicta alam, etc. Lugduni-Batavorum (Leyden), 1599. An alchemical treatise containing material relating to the mystical
Agrippa
A lamus ab Insulis, b. 1114, was the earliest Flemish alchemist. Albeetus Magnus. Die mineralihus. [In his opera, ii.] Lugduni (Leyden), 1651.
properties of gems.
1202,
d.
v.
31 o
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Les admirable secrets d' Albert le grand, etc. Lyon, Contains extracts from the works of Albertus Magnus, relating to the magical and medicinal properties of gems. New Alcot (T.). Gems, talismans, and guardians. York, 1886. Andrada (M. d'). An account of the diamonds of Brazil.
1758.
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A
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Argenville (A. J. D. d'). De I'Histoire Naturelle eclaircie dans deux de ses parties principales: la Lithologie et
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Aubrey
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GLOSSARY
AciCULAE.
Needle-like.
Adamantine.
Very
hard
as
hard
the diamond. Aggregates. Clusters or groups. Alluvial. Washing away rocks, soil, or other mineral material from one place and depositing the debris in
another.
Amorphous. Without form, shapeless. Amulet. From hamalet (Arabian), to carry. or talisman, worn on the person to ward accident, or other harm.
Arborescent.
AsTERiATED.
A
oflE
charm,
disease,
Resembling a tree in appearance. Eadiated, with rays diverging from a centre, as in a star as exhibited by an asteriated or star
sapphire.
AviCULiDAE. Wing-shells, or Pearl Oysters. Axis. Axes or planes of crystals or other minerals as demonstrated in crystallography. Baby. Trough or cradle in which gravel was washed for diamonds by early South African diamond-seekers. Bahias. Diamonds from the Bahia district, Brazil. Base. " Foundation price of a one-grain pearl from which to reckon prices of pearls of other weights. The price of pearls is quoted by the grain and reckoned by the square; example: a two-grain pearl at three dollars base would be twice three dollars, or six dollars per grain ' flat ; and two grains at six dollars would be twelve dollars, the cost of the pearl.'' (From Precious Stones by W. R. Cattelle.) Birefeingence. Double refraction of light of crystal
'
minerals.
Bizel.
344
Blebby.
Glossary
Blisters or bubbles in a crystal mineral
Blue Ground.
Diamond-bearing clay of lower levels of South African diamond mines. Blue White. Highest grade of South African diamonds. BoRT or BoART. Imperfectly crystallised form of diamond unfit for gems and used for pointing rock drills, for bearings of fine machinery and other technical uses.
BoTRYOiDAL.
Breccia.
projections.
A not wholly formed rock of angular fragments naturally cemented by lime or some other adA
hesive mineral substance or " binder." Brilliant.. style of diamond-cutting with fifty-six facets, exclusive of table and culet. Brittle. mineral, when it may be readily broken by a blow. Brittle. stone that breaks, or parts of it separate into powder, when the attempt is made to cut it. Browns. Eighth in list of principal trade terms in grading diamonds. Bruting. Polishing diamonds by rubbing one against another. Bubbles. Small hollow specks in the body of a gem. Built-up Ruby. Reconstructed ruby. Byon. Brownish-yellow clay in which occurs corundum rubies, sapphires, etc. Ground adjacent to mother rock in which rubies
have weathered out. Byssus. Fibres, flaxy or silky in appearance, by which a mussel attaches its shell to wood or stone. By-Watees. Yellow tinted diamonds. Capes. Diamonds with a yellowish tinge. Capillary. Hair-like. Carat. (Karat.) A unit of weight applied to precious stones verying in different trade centres. See table of weights of the carat in various localities in the Appendix.) The word carat is supposed to be derived from " Kuara," the bean-like fruit of an African tree reputed to have been used as a standard of
Glossary
weight for precious stones.
345
Karat
is
used to
in-
, non-metallic mintwo crystalline forms, diamond and graphite, and one amorphous form, coal. Carbon Dioxide. Carbonic acid gas; a colourless gas 1524 times as heavy as air and twenty-two times as heavy
as hydrogen.
Carbon Spots.
Opaque black spots in the body of a diamond. Carbonado. Brownish, black variety of diamond; large pebbles or masses of diamonds, nearly pure carbon. Carbonado was formerly chiefly found in great quantity now decreasing in Bahia diamond district, Brazil; used to point rock drills and, reduced to powder, for polishing diamonds. Carbuncle. Garnet sometimes, ruby, spinel, or other red gem cut convex or en cabochon: there is no such
specific mineral. Cat's-Eye. term applied to gem minerals which, when cut convex (en cabochon), display a band of light, usually across inclusions of parallel fibres of asbestos; name derived from resemblance to the eye of
a cat. Ceylon Ruby. A ruby having a pink tint. Chalcedony Patches. Milk - like semi - transparent patches which sometimes occur as faults in rubies.
Change of Colours.
rite,
where the
turned.
Chatoyancy.
carat in use.
Diamond splints, which are converted into diamond powder by crushing. Clean. Free from interior flaws. Cleavage. Direction within a crystal along which there is minimum cohesion; diamond crystals which require cleaving; pieces cleaved from the crystal.
Clatersal.
346
Glossary
Cleaving. Splitting a crystal in a direction in which it may most easily be done along the grain. Close Goods. Pure stones, of desirable shapes; highest class of South African diamonds, as assorted at Kimberley. Clouds. Muddy or cloudy patches of any colour in a stone which, when brought to the surface by cutting, are " Flat, subtransparent blotches along ineradicable. the grain of a stone." Cattelle. Colour-Play. (Play of Colours.) Prismatic colours produced by dispersion of light. Colour Range, A statement of the various colours exhibited by different specimens of a mineral. Combustibility. A quality possessed by the diamond only, among gems. Concentrates. Gem or mineral ore or ground reduced by mechanical or chemical processes to its minimum in bulk or weight.
Conchoidal, Concretions.
Shell-like fracture of
any mineral.
Mechanical aggregation, or chemical union of particles of mineral forming balls or irregularly shaped nodules in strata of different material.
Corundum. Crystallised alumina rubies, sapphire, etc. Cradle. Trough in which, by a rocking motion, placer miners wash auriferous or gem gravels. Crystallography. The science which describes or delineates the form of crystals.
Crystals.
colourless diamonds.
Culasse. Portion of brilliant-cut diamond below the girdle. CULET. (Or Collet). Bottom facet of brilliant parallel
to the girdle.
Curator. One to whose official care is entrusted a department as of mineralogy in a museum. Diamond. The mineral gem alone composed of pure car-
bon; crystallises in the isometric, or cubic, system; combustible, it can be totally consumed, disappearing
Glossary
347
in carbonic acid gas, when burned between the poles of a powerful electric battery.
Diaphaneity. The property of transmitting light. DiCHEOiSM. A property of all doubly refractive stones, of which the two images revealed by an instrument called dichroiscope appear in different colours. DiCHROSCOPE. An instrument designed to exhibit the two complementary colours of polarised light the dichroism of crystals. Dispersion. The power which decomposes a ray of common white light in its passage through a transparent medium and splits it into the various colours of which
it is
composed.
Dodecahedron. A geometrical form in the isometric or cubic system applied to crystallography; a solid figure of twelve equal sides, each a regular pentagon of five equal sides and angles. DoLOMiTic. Pertaining to dolomite, a brittle, translucent mineral of various colours and a vitreous lustre.
Eruptive. Minerals of volcanic origin in geological formations. Facet. One of the small planes which form the sides of a natural crystal, or of a cut diamond or other gem. Fales. Stones of two, or more, differently tinted strata. False Colour. Effect of " False Stones." Fancy. A term that has been applied to semi-precious stones prized for other qualities than intrinsic value. Fault. Anything within, or on the surface of, a precious stone which detracts from its beauty or value; obvious examples are inclusions of foreign bodies and patches of a different colour or shade from the body of the gem. Feathers. White subtransparent lines in the body of a
stone.
Feminine.
Ferrous.
Fire.
Any
portion of iron in its composition. Term applied to the lustre and brilliancy of gems, pre-eminently the diamond, and secondarily the opal.
348
First
Glossary
Bye. (First By-water.) Diamond exhibiting a faint greenish tinge. PiKST Water. Diamonds so pure and colourless that they can scarcely be distinguished from water when im-
mersed in it. Fish-Eye. A diamond cut too thin to present the max-
imum
effect of brilliancy.
Flat Ends.
crystal.
Flats.
Thin,
Flaw.
flat pieces of diamond crystal. crack, defect, fault, fissure, or other structural
imperfection in a gem. Fluorescence. The phenomenal quality exhibited by some gems of showing one colour in transmitted light and another in reflected light; fluorite, from which
the
word
is
Flux. To melt, to fuse. As a noun, a fluid or substance which may be used to fuse some other material. Fracture. Breaking a gem otherwise than the lines of
cleavage.
Gem
Colour,
Gemology.
The most desirable colour for a stone. word coined to supply a specific name
for
the science of gems. Glassies. Octahedral diamond crystals (transparent). Glassy. Applied to diamonds which lack brilliancy. GOLCONDA. Ancient and famous group of diamond mines on the Kistna River, India, where were found the Koh-i-noor and other world-famous diamonds. GOLCONDAS. Diamonds from India. Grain Marks. Lines on the facet surfaces, the result of imperfect polishing. Geainers. Diamonds which in weight will correspond to fourths of a carat; a diamond weighing one half a carat is a two-grainer; one weighing three quarters is a three-grainer; a diamond of one carat in weight is a four-grainer. Granitic. Like, or of, granite. Granular. Composed of or resembling granules or
grains.
HARLEQtnN.
opal.
Glossary
349
Hemihedral. Having only half the planes or facets which a symmetric crystal of the type to which it belongs would possess; a crystal wanting some of its planes. (The hemihedral form in crystallography produces or aids the phenomena of pyroelectricity.)
Hexagonal.
Of the form
or angles. Hydrostatics.
rium of
fluids.
Inclusions. Foreign substances within the body of a transparent mineral. Indian-Cut. style of diamond-cutting usually of Indian or other Oriental origin in which the table is usually double the size of the culet; such stones are generally recut for European or American requirements. Iridescence. Descriptive of prismatic colours appearing within a crystal. Isometric. The cubic system in crystallography. Jagees. Bluish-white diamonds of modem cut; originally diamonds from the Jagersfontein mine. Jig. riddle or sieve shaken ver(Jigger; Pulsator.) tically in water to separate ore or gem gravel or
ground into strata. Knife-Edge. The girdle of a brilliant cut to a sharp edge and polished. Knots. Conditions found in diamonds as in wood, and troublesome to the lapidary. Lapidary. One who cuts, polishes, or engraves precious
stones.
Light Yellow. Seventh grade diamonds. Lumpy. Stones cut thick. Lustre. The optical character of a gem, dependent upon that portion of the light falling upon it which is Degrees of lustre: splenreflected from the surface. glimmering. Kinds of glistening, dent, shining, lustre: metallic, vitreous or glassy, adamantine (the diamond's lustre), silky, satiny, pearly, nacreous, greasy, waxy, resinous.
35
Maacles.
stones.
Glossary
Plat
triangular
diamond
crystals
or
twin
Matrix.
of rock in which a mineral is emminerals are sometimes cut together with a portion of the matrix and the matrix itself is sometimes cut and mounted like gems.
The portion
bedded.
Gem
Melange. Diamonds of mixed sizes. Melee. Small diamonds. METALLxntGY. The art of separating metals from their ores or from impurities; smelting, reducing, refining,
amalgamating,
etc.
alloying,
parting,
brazing,
plating,
Mineralogy.
science treating of those natural inorganic products of the earth which possess definite physical and chemical characters. MoNOCLiNic. Inclining in one direction. MoNOCLiNiG System. Having two of the axial intersections rectangular and one oblique; having the lateral axes at right angles to one another, one of them being oblique to the vertical axis and the other at right angles to it. Mossy. Term applied to emeralds clouded by fissures. Muddy. Imperfect crystallisation which obstructs the passage of light; exemplified by mud stirred in water. Muffle. An oven-shaped vessel of baked fire-clay containing cupels or cups in which alloy is fused, or a furnace with a chamber surrounded by incandescent
fuel.
Mytilidae. family of conchiferous molluscs pearl producing mussels. Mytilius Edulis. The true mussel. Naats. Thin flat crystals (diamond) used for "roses" and, by resplitting, for draw-plates. Nacreous. Lustre resembling mother-of-pearl, the lining of mollusc shells. Night Emerald. Olivine, which loses its yellow tint by artificial light, showing only its green.
Glossary
351
Noble. The highest type of a specified kind of gem, as " Noble Opal." A synonym of " Precious." Nodules. A rounded irregular-shaped lump or mass, sometimes enclosing a foreign body in the centre. Occurrence. To be found existing. Octahedron. Two four-sided pyramids united base to
base.
Off Colour. Having but a tint of desirable colour. Old Mine. Diamonds from the old Brazilian fields; old
cut diamonds of good colour. Opacity. The quality or state of being impervious to
light.
Opalescence.
terior of
A milky or pearly reflection from the ina stone. Opalescent. Resembling or having the tints of opal; reflecting lustre from a single spot. Opaque. When no light is transmitted.
The line in a double refracting crystal the direction of which no double refraction occurs. Organic. Pertaining to the animal or vegetable kingdom. term much used in the gem trade to disOriental. tinguish stones of entirely differing chemical and
Optic Axis.
crystallographic nature to which a common name is applied, as " Oriental topaz," bestowed on specimens of yellow corundum of gem quality. Original Lots. Unbroken parcels of diamonds as graded
Having
three
unequal
axes intersecting at right angles. Oxide. The product of the combination of oxygen with a metal or metalloid. Panning. Primitive process of washing gravel by placer miners in search for gems. Pearly. Resembling the sheen of the pearl. form of ore-separating (Shaking Table.) Percussion. apparatus consisting of a slightly sloping table on which stamped ore or metalliferous sand is placed to
be sorted by gravity. A stream of water is directed over the ore, and the table is subjected to concusssion
at intervals.
352
Phosphorescence.
Glossary
The property possessed by substances
of emitting light in certain conditions. Pigeon Blood. deep clear red; the gem colour of the most highly prized specimens of the ruby.
Placer. A deposit of gem minerals found separately, sometimes as rolled pebbles, in alluvium or diluvium, or beds of streams. Play of Colours. (See colour-play.) Pleochrism. The term applied to minerals in which a different shade of colour is seen in more than two
directions.
Polarisation. In optics, a state into which the ethereal undulations which cause the sensation of light are brought under certain conditions. Pomegranate. Translation of the Hindu name for spinel. Precious. (See "Noble.") mineral found in the rock in Primary Situation. which it was formed. solid having similar and Prism. (Geometry.)
sides forming similar parallelAny transparent medium comograms. (Optics.) prised between plane faces, usually inclined to each
parallel
bases,
its
other.
Prospecting. Searching for gem fields or mines. Pulsator. (See Jig; Jigger.) (Thermo-electric.) Pertaining or rePyroelectric. lating to electric currents or effects produced by
heat.
Quality.
Native values of a gem irrespective of colour and cut. Reconstructed. A term applied to an artificial gem composed of fused particles of a natural precious
stone
" Reconstructed
diificult
to differentiate
by tests, from the red corundum of gem quality from Nature's laboratory, attain some
commercial success. Also called " Scientific Ruby." Reflection. The act of reflecting or throwing back, as of rays of light. Refraction. Bending back. In optics, the refraction of a ray of light into a number of other rays forming a
Glossary
353
hollow eone. Double Refraction: In crystals that are not homogeneous but have different properties of
elasticity, etc., in different directions, if a ray of light enter the crystal in some particular directions
it is not simply refracted but divided into two rays. Rejections. Diamonds not worthy of cutting. Reniform. Kidney-shaped. Resinous. The lustre of yellow resins; manifested in the
common forms
Rhombs.
of garnets.
Lozenge-shaped faces. Rivers. Diamonds found in the beds of rivers. RoNTGEN Rays. (See X-rays.) Rosette. (Rose-cut.) A form of cutting in which the stone's base is a single face; the general form is pyramidal and the several varieties each possess a different number of facets; a Double Rosette, also called " Pendeloque " is of the form of two rosettes
joined at their bases.
Rough. Uncut crystals. Round-Stones. Diamond crystals vrith arched facets. Schist. A term used for rocks consisting of mineral ingredients arranged so as to impart a more or less
laminar structure that may be broken into slabs or slaty fragments. Second Bye. Fifth grade of rough diamonds. Second Cape. Third grade of South African rough diamonds. Semitransparent. When objects are visible through a mineral, though the outlines are indistinct. Sharps. Thin, knife-edge pieces of diamond. SiAMS. Dark, garnet-coloured rubies usually found in Siam. Sight. Exhibition of rough diamonds by the London
Syndicate to applicants for the privilege of inspecting and purchasing. Silk. White, glistening streaks in the grain of rubies. Silky. lustre suggesting silk, as exhibited by crocido-
lite.
Silver Capes.
yellow.
slight tint
of
354
Skip.
Glossary
shafts,
bucket employed in narrow or inclined mine where the hoisting device must be confined
between guides. Smabagdus. Ancient name for emerald and other green
stones.
The experts at the South African diamond mines who assort the rough diamonds. Sorting Tables. Tables on which rough diamonds are
Sorters.
assorted.
The relative weight of bulk as compared with distilled water at 60 F. Spectrum. The coloured image or images produced when the rays from any source of light are decomposed or dispersed by refraction through a prism. Splints. Thin, pointed pieces of diamonds. Spread. Surface in proportion to the depth of a stone. Star Stones. Sapphires, and sometimes rubies, which by structure and cutting are seen to be asteriated, exhibiting a star of six rays of light. Step-Cut. (Trap-Cut.) A form of cutting employed for stones not deeply coloured when they are not cut as brilliants; a simple typical form is that of a stepped pyramid with the apex sliced off. Streak. Colour of the surface of a stone after being rubbed or scratched. "Streak-Powder" is the powder abraded from a stone. Striated. Term applied to minerals which exhibit lines traversing the plane of a crystal; such lines bear a definite relation to certain forms of the mineral on which they occur. Subtranslucent. When the edges of a mineral only transmit light faintly. Table-Stone. The typical form thus described is a style of diamond-cutting derived from an octahedron by cutting to opposite corners to an equal amount. Tailings. The refuse part of washed gem ground, rock, or gravel which is thrown behind the tail of the washing apparatus and which is put through a second process to recover values possibly remainSpecific Gravity.
ing.
Glossary
Talcose.
355
Partaking of the characters of talc. Tallow-Topped. A stone cut with a flattish convex surface.
Tariff.
Ten per cent, import duty imposed upon cut diamonds by the United States Government. Tetragonal. Pertaining to a tetragon; having four angles or sides, as a square, quadrangle, or rhomb. Tetragonal System. A system of crystallisation in which the lateral axes are equal, being the diameters
of a square, while the vertical is either longer or shorter than the lateral. Called also Dimetric, Monadimetric, or Pyramidal System. TiPPANYiTE. hydrocarbon, causing phosphorescence and opalescence in some precious stones.
Top Crystals.
Torn End.
a wassie.
Translucent.
Minerals
through them. Transparent. When the outlines of an object can be seen through a gem distinctly. Teiclinic. The system in crystallography in which the three crystallographic axes are unequal, and inclined at angles which are hot right angles, so that the forms are oblique in every direction, and have no
are scarcely,
if at all, visible
Twinned.
plane of sjrmmetry. Two or more distinct crystals which have been formed in conjunction. Uniaxial. Having one direction within the crystal, along which a ray of light can proceed without being
bifurcated.
Unio. The river mussel; the type-genus of Unionidae, with more than 400 species from all parts of the world. Uralian. Minerals from the Ural Mountains, Siberia. Vitreous. Glassy, as glassy lustre. Wassie. A large cleavage of a crystal split for cutting, as an octahedron divided into two pieces. Waxy. distinctive lustre, as of the turquoise. Weathering. The disintegration and decay of minerals under the influence of the weather.
3 56
Glossary
Name
given to the dark centre of a diamond cut
Well.
too thick.
Wesseltons. Third grade cut diamonds. X-Eays. (Rontgen Rays.) A recently discovered form
of radiant energy that is sent out when the cathode rays of a Crookes tube strike upon the opposite walls of the tube or upon any object in the tube; discovered in 1895 at Wiirzburg, Germany, by Professor W. C. Rontgen. By means of these rays it is possible to see and photograph bones, bullets, or other opaque objects through the fleshy parts of the body. The X-rays are of some value in testing mineral substances represented as precious stones. Under X-rays the diamond is transparent ; the glass, or " strass," used to manufacture imitation diamonds is always opaque under this exposure. Yellow Ground. The upper diamond-bearing clay of South African mines.
INDEX
Abrasives, 81
Achates (Drillo) River, 176 Achirite, 188 Achroite, 161 Actinolite, 134 Adamantine spar, 20, 184 .Adamas, 25 Adularia, 148 African diamond mines, 28 Agate, 176 Brazilian, 180 Dendritic (Tree Stone) 178 Iceland, 191 ^Moss, 176 Opal, 116 Oriental moss, 177 Alabaster, 184 Albite, 149 Alexandrite, 70, 132, 137 Almandine, 108, 112 Almandite, 108, 110 Atnatrice, 185 Amazohite, 185 Amazonstone, 185 Amber, 169 riders, 172 Sea, 171 Sicilian, 172
Amsterdam,
43, 47
Antimony, glass of, 212 Antwerp, 43, 48 Aphrizite, 161 Aphroseline, 148 Apostles, gems, 234 Appendix, 285 Aquamarine, 64 Aragonite, 134
Artificial rubies, 88
Arts and Crafts, 264 Aschentreckers, 166 Ash-drawers, 166 Asterias, 93, 94 Austrian Yellow Diamond, 244 Avanturine (avent urine), 150 Azurite, 186, 190
B
Bacchus Stone,
357
358
Balas ruby, 90
Index
Carbonate of copper, 186 of lime, 74
Carbuncle, 84, 109 Carnelian, 187 Carnelionyx, 180 Cat-sapphire, 93 Cat's-eye, 131 Ceylonese, 131 Oriental, 131 quartz, 135 Chalcedony, 173, 178 Chalcedony Park, 138 Chalcedonyx, 179 Chalchihuitl, 127 Chalcinea, 144 Chatoyancy, 131 Chinatowns, 146 Chloro-melanite, 143 Chlorophane, 188 Chondronite, 187 Chromic iron, 188 Chrysoberyl, 70, 131, 132, 151 Chrysoberyl, Cloudy, 133 Chrysocolla, 71 Chrysolite, 151, 161 Chrysolite, Oriental, 151 Chrysoprase, 138 Cinnamon Stone, 113 Classification of diamonds by buyers for the London Syndicate, 41, 42 by sorters in South Africa, 39, 40 Classification of gems, by author, 7 by Bauer, 16-19 - -by Kluge, 12-16 by Streeter, 10-11 Cobra Stone, 188
High
Bronzite, 134
Bruting, 207
86, 87
Byssus, 76
Callaina,
Callais,
127
Cameo, 179
Cameo-engraving, 179 Cape Time, the, 256 Carat, defined, 301, 303 Carbonado, 23, 24
Index
201 Colours of gems, 292, 293 Congo Emerald, 188 Copper, emerald-copper, 71 Coral, 102, 107 Coral Bank, Sicilian, 104 Coral, Fossil Coral, 107 Coral Industry in Italy, 104 Corallium rubrum, 103 Cordierite, 95
Collet,
359
Blue, 95
Discovery of diamonds
in South Africa, 29
cutter, 195
Cutters'
Manufac-
Corundum,
92 Counterfeiting gems, 210 Costliest strand of pearls, 77, 78 Crocidolite, 134, 135 Crown of a cut gem, 200 Crown of the Moon {Taje-Mah) Diamond, 244 Crystallography, 196 systems of crystal form, 393 Culet, 201 Cullinan Diamond, 48-55 Curative attributes of gems,
Cutters' Trade Union, 253 Diamond-cutting, 195 Diamond-cutting industry in the United States, 260 Diamond mines of India, 26, 27 Diamond of Crete, 26 Diamond-sawing machines, 208
Unioii
of
America,
257 Dichroism, a
235
list of leading twin-coloured gems, 294 Dichroitc, 189 Dingley tariff, 257 Diopside, 187, 189 Dioptase, 71, 188 Disk, 205 Dispersion, 24 Divination by stones, 232
De
232 Beers
Dop, 205, 206 machine, or mechanical, 207 Doublets, 215 Dresden Green Diamond, 243
Duke
of Devonshire's
Em-
(Tree
erald, 66
Dumortierite, 134
Diamond, 23
36o
Index
E
Bohemian, 108 Calcium Iron, 113
Green, 151
Evening, 152
Oriental, 71
mines, bia, 70
Muzo,
Colom-
Salzburg Alps, 70 Ural Mountains, 70 Enstatite, 134 Essonite, 113 Euclase, 133 Eugenie Diamond, 242
Excelsior, Jubilee Diamond,
56,
62
Geyserite, 117
Girasol, 116
57
Oriental, 94
Girdle, 200
Glass, 210
193
Faults, 86 Feldspar, 190 Fire Opal, 116
Golden leek, 138 Goldstone, 150 Gouttes d'eau, 123 Granatus, 109 Great Mogul Diamond, 57 Grossularite, 113 Gypsum, 134, 184, 192 Red, 106
G
Gagas River, 189
Gagates, 189 Garnet, 108
H
Hardness of gem minerals, table, 296
Haiiynite, 95
American, 114
Hawk's-eye, 136
Index
Heavenly City, gems
Heliolite,
of,
361
231
Hope Diamond,
26, 242 Hornblende, 134 Hornstone, 138 Hyacinth, 113, 194 Hyalina, 115, 122 Hyalite, 116 Hyalosiderite, 153 Hyalus opalinus, 115 Hydrofluoric acid, 213 Hydrophane, 116 Hypersthene, 134
La
Improvements, 209
Indicolite, 95, 161 International Committee of
Weights
302
lolite,
and
Measures,
189
M
Magnetite, 190 Malachite, 190 Marcasite, 191 Marekenite, 191 Matura diamonds, 193 Melee, 208 Mexican Onyx, 180 Mica, 189
Jacinth, 194
Jade, 143
Jadeite, 143 Jargons, jargoons, 194 Jasper, 173 Jesus Christ, 175
Jet,
189
362
Index
Jasp, 116
Moss, 116
-Noble, 117 Oriental 118 Precious, 117
Montana Ruby,
83,
114
Wood, 116 Opalescent orthoclase-feldspar, 148 Opalised wood, 150 Oriental gem cutters, 198 Oxide of titanium, 192
N
Natal stones, 234
Nephrite, 143
O
Oberstein agate industry, 178 Obsidian, 190 Odontolite, 130 Oligoclase, 150 Olivines, 113, 151 Onyx, 179 Camelian, 180 Chalcedony, 181 Mexican, 180 Opal, 115 Australian, 119, 121 Ceylonese, 150 Harlequin, 116 Honduras, 118 Hungarian, 118
'
Phenacite, 191
Phenax, 191
Pigeon-blood rubies, 84
Pinking, 124 Pitt (Regent) Diamond, 58, 60 Plasma, 173 Polar Star Diamond, 243 Pomegranate, 89 Precious stones, classed, 9 Premier Mines, 39 Premier Mines, new (Transvaal), 55, 56 Pseudo-nephrite, 143 Pyrite, 189, 191 Pyro-electricity, 159 Pyroxene, 156, 187
Index
Q
Quartz-Aventurine, 150 Amethystine, 98 Balls, 237 Chalcedonic, 176 Citrine, 216
363
of Siam, 87
Ruby mines
Rutile, 192
E
Radescent, 159 Radium, 158 Reconstructed rubies, 38, 218 Reconstructed sapphires, 222 Reconstructions, 209 Red dirt, 155 Refraction, 298, 299
222
Star, 94
Siam,
Sard, 181
58,
218
sapphires, 222
Rubies, 79-83
218
Siberian, 88
value
of,
85
Schneckenstein topaz mines, 126 Scoop Stone, 172 Sea Amber, 170 Sea Stone, 170 Selenite, 148 Semi-precious stones, 183 -Classified, 9-10 Shaking table, 38 Skaifs, 44 Slaves' diamonds, 125 Soldier's Stone, 96 Sorting tables, 37, 38
364
Specific
Index
Indian, 125 Oriental, 92, 125
Spessartite, 114
Sphasrulite, 191
Sphen, 193 Sphene, 193 Spinel, 88 Pomegranate, 89 Vinegar-Spinel, 133 Spodios, 156 Spodumene, 154 Brazilian, 157 unaltered, 155 Star of South Africa Diamond, 31, 241 Staurolite, 192 Stick, 206 Strass, 211 Style, 181 Styles of cutting, 199 Succinite, 113, 170 Succinum electrum, 170 Sulphur Stone, 191 Sunstone, 148, 150 Sun-turning, 173 Supernatural attributes of gems, 235
Rhombicus, 122 Rose Pink, 124 Saxon, 125 Scotch, 125 Smoky, 125, 187 Spanish, 125 True, 123 Topazios, 122 Topazolite, 113 Tourmalines, 160 black, 166 red, 162
twin-coloured, 162
Transparency of gems under Rontgen (X-) rays, 300 Tree Stone, 178
Triphane, 156 Triplets, 215
Tulp Straat, Amsterdam, 46 Turkis, 127 Turmali, 160 Turquoise, 127 Matrix, 129 Occidental, 130 Twelve Mazarins, the, 240
U
Tabasheer, 116 Table, 200 Tests of genuineness, 212 Thermo-luminescence, 159 Tiger-eye, 135 Titanite, 193 Topaz, 122 Blue, 125 Brazilian, 126 False, 125
United States tariff on imported diamonds, 43 Universal Diamond Workers' Alliance, 258 Uvarovite, 114
Valuation of gems, 22
Index
Variscite, 185 Volcanic Glass, 190
365
W
Wardite, 185
Woof, 185
Zircon, 193
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