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This edition published 30 December 2013
ISSN 2046-133X

Changing times

TRAVEL AFRICA magazine is published by

Gecko Publishing Ltd.
The Dovecote, Little Baldon
Oxford OX44 9PU, United Kingdom
Tel: +44 (0)1844 278883
Fax: +44 (0)1844 278893

@TravelAfricamag
www.facebook.com/TA.magazines
www.travelafricamag.com
www.ta-emags.com
www.safariplanner.co.uk
www.geckomags.com
Editor / Publisher Craig Rix
craig@geckomags.com
Managing Director Iain Wallace
Business Development Manager Sally Cook
sallycook@geckomags.com
Sales Manager Dave Southwood
dave@geckomags.com
Publications Manager Phil Clisby
phil@geckomags.com
Customer Services Sherry Rix
service@geckomags.com
Designers Mark Hartley and Lisa Duke
Sub-Editor Emma Gregg
Accounts Amanda Gaydon, Tracy Green
and Jodie Pratt accounts@geckomags.com
Dedication
For Dad. For your inspiration, support and
many questions. Fly free. Keep smiling.
Subscriptions
Travel Africa can be supplied:
t as a traditional printed magazine
t as a digital ipbook from www.zinio.com
t as a digital ipbook and text format for
iPad and iPhone via the iTunes App Store.
For full details refer to page 105
subs@travelafricamag.com
Contributors
Colin Bell, Ashwin Bhardwaj, Jackson
Biko, Philip Briggs, David Bristow, Gemma
Catlin, Lou Coetzer, Stephen Cunliffe,
Aaron Gekoski, Emma Gregg, Anthony
Ham, Carrie Hampton, Brian Jackman,
Tabbi Mittins, Mark Stratton, Ann and
Steve Toon and Mike Unwin
Editorial enquiries
We accept no responsibility for unsolicited
proposals and submissions. Please make
all editorial-related enquiries by email to
editor@travelafricamag.com

Karibu!

t the start of a year, many of us tend

to reect on changes we may wish
to make in our lives, or consider the
things we would like to improve. I view it as
evolution the ongoing journey through life.
There have been changes here at Travel
Africa, and these will gather pace as we move
into 2014. Towards the end of last year Matt
Phillips left us after six years at the editorial
helm. Matt was a reliable and dedicated
editor who has played a valued role in the
life of the magazine, driven by his shared
passion for Africa. We are grateful for his
commitment, and hope that his new adventures prove exciting and rewarding.
There are always many more stories we want to share with you as we continue our
exploration of the worlds most exciting continent. So, over the coming months we will
be giving thought to changes we could make to Travel Africa to enable us to get more
stories and images out to you.
We would appreciate your honest evaluation of what you like about the magazine,
and what you dont. Wed love to know what you would like to read about and how you
would like to receive this material. For more on this, see page 43.
Africa itself has evolved at a rapid pace since we launched Travel Africa in 1997, and
this momentum will clearly continue. So much of this has been very positive, and we
look forward to sharing new adventures with you. However, such rapid development
exposes frailties, emphasizing the importance of tourism as a cornerstone of economic
and environmental balance across the continent.
Africas natural heritage is under greater threat now than ever. We explore the state
of the lion population from page 70, but this is just one of a great many species in peril.
Tourism is one of the most important tools in the conservation battle: the more people
who go on safari, the more reason there is to protect these assets and the harder it is for
poachers to inltrate.
We will therefore liaise more closely with conservation groups, and to this end are
very excited to have established a constructive working relationship with the African
Wildlife Foundation.
The decisions you make on where to travel and where to stay are even more impactful
now than they were a decade ago. So weve explored this in some detail from page 28.
We hope this issue inspires you to plan your next safari. A trip will of course be a
real high point in your year, but it could also have an enduring impact on the people and
wildlife in the region in which you travel. Everybody wins.
Safari njema!

Craig Rix
Editor

Copyright 2014 Gecko Publishing Ltd. No part of this magazine

may be reproduced in any form or stored on a retrieval system
without the prior permission of the publisher. While every
effort is made to ensure that the contents of Travel Africa are
accurate at the time of going to press, the publisher cannot
accept responsibility for any errors that may appear, or for any
consequence of using the information contained herein.

On the cover Tools of the trade. Heinrich van den Bergh / HPH Photography
Footnote With our focus this issue on the state of the lion (p70), a lion paw print
appears at the end of every feature article.

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Winter 2014 Travel Africa 5

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Features

Contents

28
How to choose the perfect
place to stay on your safari

Travel Africa Edition 65, Winter 2014

KAYA MAWA, COURTESY WILDERNESS SAFARIS

INDABA
P15- 25
News and views about whats
going on in Africa, including: the
African Queen sails again; Meet
the Smalls, Kenyas most loyal
visitors; African events the
latest must-sees around the
continent; the Discover Africa
Show; and a conversation with
Nile explorer Levision Wood.

SAFARI
P108-115
Reports, reviews and solid
advice for your next African
trip, including: Essential
South Africa bush and beach
safaris; Wildle bizarre ways
that animals get around; and
Photoschool anticipating
the shot.

28 Accommodation
Spoilt for choice
Are you confused about where to stay?
Luxurious lodge? Romantic camp?
Remote? Quirky? The options are endless...
Emma Gregg provides a few pointers.

48 Malawi
Majete National Park
From poachers playground to thriving
game reserve: Aaron Gekoski and Gemma
Catlin discover a remarkable conservation
success story in action.

54 History
A journey through African
history in just 20 stops
Phillip Briggs selects 20 sites that, in his
opinion, provide a thorough overview of
Africas oft-neglected past, as well as adding
an exciting extra dimension to a more
conventional safari or beach holiday.

64 Botswana
Land of dust and giants
Tabby Mittins and Villiers Steyn step into
the tracks of elephants to nd out what the
beguiling Tuli Wilderness has to share.

Zambia Safari Planner

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70 Conservation
So you want to see a lion, do you?
Of all the big cats, the lion is the one most
frequently encountered on safari. Yet,
these lords of the land are, tragically, in
decline. Anthony Ham investigates.

86 Kenya
The road less travelled
Kenya is not renowned as a self-drive
destination. But this doesnt deter Steve
and Ann Toon, who dust down an ageing
4WD and head off on an epic adventure...

92 Namibia
Secret stars
According to the brochures, none of
Namibias tourist hotspots are to be found
in the Kalahari region. Keen to prove
otherwise Stephen Cunliffe set off on a
journey of discovery.

98 Portfolio
An intimate African journey
Photographer and safari operator Lou
Coetzer captures moments that afford
a deeper understanding of the
continents wildlife.

Page 119
Winter 2014 Travel Africa 7

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Hwange
National
Park,
Zimbabwe
Lion vs elephant. Desert vs water. These
are two signicant battles played out in
what is one of southern Africas greatest
protected areas. Spread across 14,651 square
kilometres of Kalahari sand, savannah and
thickly wooded bushland, Zimbabwes
largest national park is home to more
mammal species (108 at last count) than any
other park in the world. At the eastern end
of a migratory route linked to Botswanas
Chobe National Park, the park also receives
tens of thousands of elephants during
the dry season. As the desert heat wins
its war with natural water levels, herds of
all varieties congregate around the longestablished articial pans. The wildlife
viewing at these times can be astounding.
Although 19 species of large herbivore
are present here, including Africas big
ve antelope (eland, roan, sable, greater
kudu and gemsbok), the sheer number of
elephants make them the most abundant of
these in the area. And this has made them
a target for the parks prides of lions. The
big cats have adapted to the situation and
acquired the skills to take down not just
newborns but also males up to the age of
thirteen. Incredibly, elephants make up a
signicant proportion of their diet, even
more so in particularly dry years. ;

8 Travel Africa Winter 2014

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This is Africa

Winter 2014 Travel Africa 9

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GREAT
GIFTS
for the Africa lover!

If youre looking to further your knowledge of Africa or nd a special gift, explore

our range of unusual or exclusive products at www.travelafricashop.com including:
EXCLUSIVE

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Matopos 2014
This magnicent 13-month calendar for 2014
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UK 12.00 / ROW 15.00

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Africas Finest
This is a game-changing book that celebrates the lodges and camps in Africa that are making a
difference: those practising environmentally friendly and sustainable tourism methods while
providing world-class safari and nature experiences. With an exhaustive adjudication process
implemented by a team of highly experienced personnel, led by industry veterans Colin Bell and David
Bristow, Africas Finest really does draw attention to the relationship between travel (and the choices
tourists make) and the fragile environment. Africas Finest is the ultimate green
safari treasure map to this exhilarating continent and a must-read for any
safari enthusiast.
Available exclusively in the UK from Travel Africa.
Hardback. Price includes post and packaging.
UK 75.00 / ROW 85.00

100 Bizarre Animals

Have you ever seen a sh that walks, a deer
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Hardback. Price includes Post and Packaging.
UK 12.00 / ROW 15.00

Order online at www.travelafricashop.com

Call +44 (0)1844 278883 Email service@travelafricamag.com

12 Travel Africa Winter 2014

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Indaba

News, views, events and readers stories all with Africa at heart

African Queen
sails again
M

ore than 60 years after the movie #HTKECP
3WGGP, starring Katharine

Hepburn and Humphrey Bogart, was shot on location in the
Congo and Uganda, the steamboat used in the lming has been
rescued and is now offering pleasure cruises on the River Nile.
New Zealander Cam McLeay has fully restored the vessel after it was
found some years ago abandoned in Ugandas Murchison Falls National
Park. Its reconstruction included tting a century-old steam engine
imported from the UK.
The restored African Queen recently began running two-hour cruises
from Whitewater Lodge on the Ugandan White Nile, north of Jinja.

/CTM
5VTCVVQP

MARK STRATTON

More on the App

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Winter 2014 Travel Africa 15

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Its a Small world

Jackson Biko meets Margaret and Lewis Small, aka The Kidogos,
perhaps the most loyal of all Kenyas visitors.

enya may have recently celebrated

50 years of independence, but this
wasnt the only jubilee in town. In
November Margaret and Lewis Small marked
their golden wedding anniversary with a trip
that took them to Nairobi, Tsavo, Amboseli
and the Masai Mara. It wasnt their rst trip to
this magical country. Far from it.
The Smalls rst set foot in Kenya in
1988. At the end of this maiden visit, while
Lewis stood at Kilaguni Safari Lodges
reception settling the bill, Margaret lingered
at the dining room window, drinking in the
expanse of Tsavo West National Park.
Back then, she remembers, the wild
wasnt a term that merely implied a place
removed from the city. I felt that I was in
Gods country, she recalls, untouched by
human hand.
It was at this moment that Margaret
experienced an overwhelming feeling of
attachment to Kenya. I knew then that I
would keep coming back, she says.
She was true to her word. She and Lewis
have returned to Kenya every year for the last
25 years, and on 20 of those trips they have
stayed exclusively with Serena Hotels, the
group that now runs Kilaguni.

The Smalls call Kenya their second home.

In the Masai Mara their favourite destination
they are lovingly referred to as The Kidogos,
MKFQIQ meaning small in Swahili.
They have walked with Kenya from
the infantile days of tourism right up to the
present day, and have witnessed a dramatic
transformation.
We are very humbled that we have been
a part of this growth, says Lewis. Although
they cant help but look back with jaundiced
eyes to a time when, they muse, the word
safari had a different ring.
In those days you would hardly ever
see children under 12 years of age in lodges.
It was simply not allowed, recalls Margaret,
nostalgically. During a recent game drive we
happened on a leopard that had just killed a
baby gazelle, and this one child was totally
traumatised. She cried helplessly throughout,
howling, It killed the little Bambi!
Game drives have completely changed
over the years, they feel. For one thing, its
much easier to see animals now, thanks to the
cooperation between safari operators.
There were no radio calls in the late
80s, Lewis chuckles. So we had to drive
around looking for wildlife. This made it quite

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Journal

adventurous. We loved the search.

Lodges and camps are now luxurious
affairs. Back then it was a shower from a
bucket and lanterns for light.
But the most signicant change is
the mobile phone, laments Margaret.
Safaris used to be silent affairs. Now, the
ringing phones are always making a racket,
disturbing the peace and quiet.
In the course of their frequent
visits they have developed a strong
bond with the staff (especially those
at Serena). Wherever they go, they get
recognised.
Joyce Wangui [Serenas Corporate
Sales Manager] is like our daughter, says
Margaret. She always invites us to her
home for dinner each time we are around.
The closeness of the relationship
they enjoy with Serena was epitomised a
few years ago when they were invited to
the traditional wedding of Reuben Kirui, a
former employee.
We went down to Mengwet in
Kericho, and were the only mzungus at the
wedding, recalls Margaret. Reuben went to
great lengths to ensure our comfort. He even
provided a translator to relay the wedding
proceedings to us.
With a cheeky smile, Lewis interjects: I
remember the vows very well. They read that
he would love his bride and his mother-inlaw equally. The pair guffaw heartily at this.
There have been some dark times
though, such as the post-election violence
in 2007-8: times when their love for the
country was tested.
[The violence] was a true moment
of sadness, says Margaret. We couldnt
drive down to Kilaguni as planned, but we
came to support the country regardless.
We knew that Kenya and its people were
better than that.
Its in this same spirit that Margaret, at
the age of 70, took part in a 400km charity
cycle ride. I, together with a group of 450
women, cycled from Meru to Lake Victoria,
with the aim of raising money for Faraja
Cancer Support Trust, she recalls. It was
gruesome, but we managed it. The event
raised some 52,000.
Their mutual love for Kenya, the Smalls
say, has managed to keep their marriage
exciting because of the fullment going
there together brings them. This is home
for the Kidogos, Lewis smiles. This will
always be our home.
It is no surprise that they are already
planning their next visit. ;

Winter 2014 Travel Africa 17

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18 Travel Africa Winter 2014

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A deep sleep

GENBERG ART UW LTD/ PHOTOGRAPHY JESPER ANHEDE

Fancy laying your head somewhere different?

Well, it doesnt get more out-there than
this. In a rst for Africa, the Manta Resort
on Pemba has opened an underwater
hotel room.
The brainchild of Swedish artist
Mikael Genberg who opened his
rst such facility in 2000 in a lake near
Stockholm the room is anchored in the
Blue Hole, some 250 metres offshore. This
circular hole, an anomaly in the coral reef
visible from the main resort, is roughly
50m in diameter, 12m deep and home to
abundant marine life.
Built on three levels, the Underwater
Room comprises a landing deck, at sea
level, with a lounge area and bathroom
facility, and a roof deck for sun worshippers
and star gazers alike. But the pice de
resistance is downstairs, below the surface

of the water the bedroom.

Surrounded on
every side by panes of
glass, which afford
a 360-degree view,
you can while
away the hours
with a unique
outlook onto this
underwater world.
Shoals of reef sh
swim lazily by, while some simply hang
around the room, including three bat sh
and a trumpet sh called Nick. You might
even see a shark peering through your
window. At night spotlights beneath each
window attract some shyer and more
unusual marine life, such as squid.
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News

Powder to the people

n 28 December Durbanites painted the

town red and blue, green and yellow. In
fact, pick your favourite colour. The worldwide
Holi Festival of Colours touched down in
Durban, South Africa, as part of a World
Tour. Having already been to Johannesburg
in September and Cape Town in October,
the festival certainly brought a new take on
the Rainbow Nation.
Holi is one of the largest festivals in
India. It announces the arrival of spring
and the passing of winter, and also marks
the victory of good over evil. During the
celebrations, the caste system is ignored and
all people are considered equal the symbol
for that being the shared immersion in colour,
traditionally red. To express this, every hour on
the hour from 2pm a countdown culminated
in revellers throwing powder into the air to
create a massive explosion of colour.

Caprivi becomes the Zambezi Region

FALKENSTEINFOTO / ALAMY

amibia has renamed the Caprivi Strip the

Zambezi Region in a move to downplay
its German colonial history. The 450km-long
nger of land, just 105km at its widest and
32km at it narrowest, is popular with visitors
for its tropical rivers and abundant wildlife. But
its very existence is an accident of history.
Formerly known as Itenge, this skinny
panhandle in the northeast of the country
was renamed in 1890 in honour of Count Leo
von Caprivi (NGHV), the Chancellor of Germany.
Germany gained control of the area after
signing the Heligoland Treaty with Great
Britain. Under its terms, Germany renounced

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its claims to certain areas in East Africa,

thereby safeguarding Britains protectorates
in the region. In return Germany acquired
Heligoland, two strategic islands in the
North Sea, and Itenge. It was a deal based on a
miscalculation by the Germans.
It was Caprivis waterways that had
caught their eye, as they saw the chance to
open up a trade route through Zambia all the
way to the Indian Ocean. They forgot one
thing, however: a 108m-torrent of plunging
water called /QUKQC6WP[C, or Victoria Falls.
The route was unnavigable, and the Germans
were stuck with a white elephant. ;

Winter 2014 Travel Africa 19

WorldMags.net
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Here are our picks from the African calendar this quarter.

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20 Travel Africa Winter 2014

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African events

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2 MARCH KILIMANJARO MARATHON, TANZANIA

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WorldMags.net

Winter 2014 Travel Africa 21

WorldMags.net

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 4 CORNERS

WorldMags.net

News

Planning a trip to Africa? Then dont miss the Adventure Travel Show
on 25-26 January at Olympia, London

ravel Africa
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A show within a show, Discover Africa enables
visitors to explore the worlds most exciting
continent. This feature, dedicated purely to African
travel, is designed to provide you with all the
information and practical advice you require to plan
your adventure of a lifetime, whether you are a rsttimer to Africa or a seasoned veteran.
The show is packed with Africa experts, so
take the opportunity to speak with safari operators,
conservation organisations, self-drive and overland
companies, tourism organisations and offices, and
activity and adventure specialists offering climbing,
diving, walking, ballooning, shing, watersports, and
cycling. Discover Africa has the lot covered.
In addition there is a dedicated Africa theatre,
featuring inspirational talks, information and advice.

The Adventure Travel Show as a whole brings

together the biggest collection of specialist travel
operators under one roof, who will be on hand
to offer advice on everything from walking and
trekking, epic journeys, exploratory travels and
exclusive expeditions to safaris, overland trips, lifechanging volunteering projects and much more.
Theres also the chance to hear more than 100
free talks in four theatres, from explorers, industry
experts, guidebook writers and expedition leaders
who will help you uncover your perfect adventure.
If you are thinking of undertaking the
ultimate travel challenge of a self-supported trip
there is the Adventure Planning Seminar*, new
to this years show. A panel of world-renowned
expedition planners will help you plan your own
journey, whether it be by vehicle, motorbike, cycle,
horseback, walking or ying, on your own or part
of a small group.
Visitors can also take part in the Travel Writing
and Travel Photography Seminars*, which are suited
to both beginners and professionals looking to make
their work as powerful as possible. ;

WorldMags.net

Ticket information
One-day entry: 4 in
advance, quote Travel
Africa (normal price,
8) or 10 on the door,
under-16s free
Weekend entry:
12 in advance or 15
on the door
For full details, talk
timetables and to book
tickets please go to www.
adventureshow.com or
call 0871 230 7159 (calls
cost 10p per minute plus
network extras).
*Seminar tickets are
individually priced. Please
see website for more
details.

Winter 2014 Travel Africa 23

WorldMags.net
In conversation with explorer

Levison Wood
On 1 December 2013 Levison Wood took the rst steps on
an ambitious journey to become the rst person to walk the
entire length of the River Nile. Before he left, he shared a few
moments with Ash Bhardwaj.
PHOTOGRAPHED BY DAVE SOUTHWOOD

24 Travel Africa Winter 2014

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WorldMags.net

he honours list of River Nile

explorers reads like a Whos Who
of derring-do: Livingstone, Speke,
Stanley, Burton. So youd expect
someone whos attempting to walk its entire
length to be a bit stand-offish. But Lev Wood,
31, has an appealing warmth that sets him
apart from those Victorian wanderers.
I rst met Lev ten years ago, just after
hed got back from a summer trip to the
Middle East: a wrong turn while hitchhiking
landed him in Iraq, just months after the
US-led invasion. With admirable modesty, Lev
made it sound like a trip to Brighton rather
than Baghdad, and I realised that this was a
man who dealt with risk in an astonishingly
composed fashion.
In the following years, Lev backpacked
along the Silk Road, became a Captain in the
British Army, co-founded a travel company
and led world-rst expeditions on every
continent except Antarctica. But unlike many
adventurous souls, Levs ambitions dont come
from a need to conquer. Rather, theyre born
from a desire to discover.
He and I have worked together on several
projects, from uncovering stories of 1920s
Paris to researching the history of the Silk
Road, but Ive never seen him so excited about
a trip as his current mission to walk the Nile.
Before he left, we caught up for a brandy at the
Royal Geographical Society so that I could nd
out why.

So, the obvious question rst: why are

you doing it?
The Nile is integral to the imagination and
consciousness of British exploration, but its
misunderstood: when we hear the Nile,
most of us think of sipping a G&T on a barge
near Aswan. But thats just the last stretch; I
want to tell the story of the rst 3000 miles of
the river.
But for 12 months? On foot?
Ernest Hemingway wrote: I never knew of
a morning in Africa when I woke up that I
was not happy. Theres something magnetic
about the place. Walking is the simplest, most
primal way to travel its how our ancestors
migrated from Africa and its the only way to
really get to know a place.

Interview

What are you most looking forward to?

The variety. Ill be walking through literally
every environment possible, from jungle
to swamp and desert to sea. We only hear
stories of famine and war from Africa; but
theres such beauty, history and incredible
culture. Ill be visiting places that are
totally unexplored.
And dreading?
Being away from home for so long will be a
tough mental challenge. The Sudd Marshes
in South Sudan will be quite an obstacle. The
Sahara in summer isnt going to be much
fun either.

Why now?
Its never really been possible before: antimalarial drugs didnt exist in Victorian times,
and that stopped most explorers in their
tracks. In recent years, conict in Sudan
has prevented travel, but its relatively
stable now.

What are your favourite parts of Africa?

Cape Town was where I rst set foot in Africa,
twelve years ago, and its one of my favourite
cities in the world. But three years ago I led
an expedition to drive two ambulances from
London to Malawi, camping in the wilderness
in Tanzania. One morning we woke to nd
a herd of elephants passing our camp; the
majesty of the bush is unlike anything you
can imagine.

It seems risky, though.

We live in a risk-averse world; adventure
is all about embracing risk, and doing your
best to manage it. If you really want to push
yourself, mentally and physically or discover
something new you have to take a risk.

Are you looking forward to seeing

the wildlife?
The most dangerous place to be in Africa is
between a hippo and water. Thats where Ill be
spending the next twelve months, so I should
probably pay attention. ;

WALKING THE NILE

Levs walk began in the highlands of
Rwanda and will take him through the
jungles of Tanzania and Uganda and into
South Sudan.
After navigating the immense wetlands
of the Sudd, which grow to the size of
England during the rainy season, he tackles
North Sudan and the epic march across the
Sahara, around Lake Nasser into Egypt,
nishing at Alexandria where the Nile
empties in the Mediterranean Sea.
He has to walk 4250 miles, passing
through six countries in 12 months.
Thats a distance of approximately 100
miles each week.
The expedition will be screened as a
four-part documentary on Channel 4 later
in 2014.
$

FOLLOW LEV
Bookmark www.walkthenile.com for updates
and to follow Levs video blog
Twitter: @WalkingTheNile

WorldMags.net

Winter 2014 Travel Africa 25

WorldMags.net

HOTELS AND LODGES TANZANIA

www.hotelsandlodges-tanzania.com t
res@hotelsandlodges-tanzania.com t +255 27 2544595 / 807 / 798 / 795

LAKE MANYARA WILDLIFE LODGE

LOBO WILDLIFE LODGE

The only lodge located on the very edge of the breathtaking

escarpment of Lake Manyara National Park, affording magnicent
views down across the lake.

The most romantic safari lodge in East Africa, remotely located in the
north of Serengeti National Park, hidden within giant volcanic rocks
and providing an unrivalled birds-eye perspective of the migration.

Let us invite you to discover one of Tanzanias best kept secrets.

Lake Manyara a small breathtaking National Park with an immense
natural richness that is home to more than 380 bird species,
including the thousands of amingos that tint the soda waters of
the lake pink, and the famous tree-climbing lions, which for reasons
unknown sleep in the branches of acacia trees.
Lake Manyara Wildlife Lodge is strategically located on the
very edge of the vertiginous western escarpment of the Rift Valley,
affording magnicent views down across the whole lake.
Lake Manyara Wildlife Lodge invites you to an unforgettable
safari experience from its privileged location, unrivalled by any
other, both for game viewing and scenery. Elegantly designed
as a two-level ensemble of buildings, its authentic traditional
African-style decorations create a unique atmosphere that perfectly
combines extreme tranquility with the best of adventure-packed
safari experiences.
From its privileged position, all the lodges 100 guestrooms have
stunning views across the tranquil and beautiful waters of the Lake.
The spectacular swimming pool, situated in a panoramic setting,
is a privileged location to enjoy the invigorating fresh air and the
breathtaking views of the pink lake.

Romantic, remote, wild that is Lobo Wildlife Lodge, located in the

north of Serengeti National Park, the most spectacular scenario
of wildlife in its pure essence. Lobo Wildlife Lodge is a dream
of romanticism in its remote location, strategically built into an
enormous volcanic rocky outcrop. It is the largest lodge on the
migration route, where its elevated position means that it can be
viewed from the comfort of a sun lounger. You can even watch from
the pool.
Artistically made of stone and local timber around clusters of large
boulders, harmoniously merging with its surroundings, the lodge
affords from its raised location stunning views of the most amazing
natural spectacle to be seen on Earth. Lobo is the rst lodge on the way
from Kenya to Tanzania, only 28km from the Masai Mara. The lodge
invites you to an unforgettable safari experience from its privileged
location, unrivalled by any other both for game viewing and scenery.
A waterhole below the lodge attracts a variety of wildlife during
the day and is lit each evening, providing a close encounter with an
interesting array of nocturnal animals. All the lodges 75 elegant
guestrooms afford superb views of this natural phenomenon, and
the sumptuous swimming pool is situated on the very edge of the
rock, offering uninterrupted views of the horizon.

ACTIVITIES
t
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t
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t Visits to the Mbu Cultural Tourism Programme

ACTIVITIES
t
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Game drives t Photographic safaris
t
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Hot air
balloon safaris t
Romantic picnics in the wilderness

26 Travel Africa Winter 2014

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WorldMags.net

"%7&35*4*/(
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True African hospitality

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Ngorongoro Crater is often referred to as the eighth wonder of the

world A large caldera 600 metres deep that hosts the most unique
ecosystem on Earth, with 20,000 large grazing mammals and the
largest concentration of predators on the planet, playing a key role
in the maintenance of the ecological balance.
Ngorongoro Wildlife Lodge is strategically perched on the rim of
this Garden of Eden, affording unbelievable views plunging down
into the crater oor, 7500 feet above sea level.
The lodge is elegantly built mainly from natural stone and local
wood, harmoniously merging with its natural surroundings, and
its panoramic windows encompass superb views of the Craters
great bowl.
All the lodges 80 rooms are exquisitely decorated, offering a
serene atmosphere of elegance. The modern rooms are all en suite,
with central heating systems and mosquito netting over the air
vents. From their elevated position, the rooms afford breathtaking
uninterrupted views, and the open-air terrace of the Rhino Lounge
Bar offers superb panoramic views of the whole crater.
Ngorongoro Wildlife Lodge invites you to an unforgettable
safari experience from its privileged location, both for game viewing
and scenery.

The vast and spectacular Serengeti is the epitome of most peoples

vision of wild Africa; its endless rolling plains perfectly dene
the meaning of its name in the Maasai language Seregenget or
Siringitu means the place where the land moves on forever.
Seronera is one of the most important spots in Serengeti National
Park, where you can witness an actual kill in the esh. This area is
in the heart of the Serengeti, where all game drives, balloon safaris,
and catching planes take place. Seronera Wildlife Lodge is located
on the migratory route, and it provides front-seat viewing of this
extraordinary natural phenomenon.
Seronera Wildlife Lodge is artfully constructed around a rocky
outcrop from glass and wood elements, perfectly blending into its
surroundings. Next to the lodge, several waterholes attract, day and
night, the most amazing animals, providing a unique opportunity
for a close encounter with the Big Five. Seronera Lodge is only ve
minutes from the departure point for hot air balloon safaris, which
offer a thrilling birds-eye wildlife perspective of the vast plains of
the Serengeti.
From its privileged location, the Seroneras 75 rooms afford
stunning views of more than a million wildebeest as they migrate
from Kenya to Lake Victoria to escape the drought.

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WorldMags.net

Winter 2014 5SBWFM
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WorldMags.net

28 Travel Africa Winter 2014

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WorldMags.net

Planning

Spoilt for choice

Luxurious lodges, romantic camps, remote campsites, quirky treehouses there are masses of
wonderful-sounding places to stay on safari. So how on earth do you choose?
If you want to be certain of nding accommodation that suits your interests, ts your budget and makes
a positive contribution to conservation and community development, youll need to do some careful
research or consult a travel specialist you really trust. Emma Gregg is here to help you on your way.

WorldMags.net

Winter 2014 Travel Africa 29

WorldMags.net

Where do I start?
The reality is that nearly every destination offers a range of facilities, often through the whole
budgetary scope and many with specic strengths. There are some simple questions to consider
when narrowing down your options.

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30 Travel Africa Winter 2014

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WorldMags.net

WorldMags.net

Planning

These days there are more and more

options which are community-owned, or
which support communities directly
- Amanda Marks, Tribes
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WorldMags.net

Winter 2014 Travel Africa 31

Land WorldMags.net
of Leopards

Idube Game Lodge

Sabi Sand Game Reserve
Mpumalanga

For more information, contact

info@idube.com
Tel +27 11 431 1120
www.idube.com

Farm Lodge

Get close to nature...

A four-room, private and exclusive lodge,

offering an authentic African experience.
Set in the Maasai Plains of Tanzania, it is a
marriage of farmland, wildlife and Maasai life.
13 SAFARI CAMPS AND LODGES
Botswana: Okavango Delta | Chobe
Kenya: Masai Mara
Tanzania: Saadani | Serengeti | Tarangire
Uganda: Bwindi Impenetrable Forest
Zambia: Livingstone | South Luangwa

Contact Wendy on +255763876493

wendella80@hotmail.com

africa@sanctuaryretreats.com | sanctuaryretreats.com

32 Travel Africa Winter 2014

WorldMags.net

WorldMags.net

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- Bill Adams, Safari Consultants

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On safari, your bed for the night can be anything from a mattress and mosquito net in the wilds to a four-poster in a palatial lodge each with
service, facilities, atmosphere and culture to match. Which is best suited to you?
Campsites
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WorldMags.net

Safari lodges
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Winter 2014 Travel Africa 33

WorldMags.net

  




 

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34 Travel Africa Winter 2014






































 
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WorldMags.net

WorldMags.net

Planning

Character building
Most lodges or camps offer a particular character, a feeling rooted in the location,
back story, architecture, hosts or guides. To demonstrate, Emma Gregg picks a few
that caught her imagination.
Chobe Game Lodge
Chobe National Park, Botswana
9JCV
OCMGU
KV
URGEKCN!
#NNHGOCNG
IWKFKPI
VGCO
+P
#HTKEC
HGOCNG
UCHCTK
IWKFGU
CTG
UVKNN
TCVJGT
TCTG
#U

HCT
CU
YG
MPQY
VJKU
KU
VJG
QPN[
NQFIG
YJGTG
CNN
VJG

IWKFGU
CTG
YQOGP
+VU
CNUQ
VJG
QPN[
RGTOCPGPV
NQFIG

KPUKFG
%JQDG
$QVUYCPCU
QNFGUV
CPF
OQUV
FKXGTUG

PCVKQPCN
RCTM

Karkloof Safari Spa

Kwa-Zulu Natal, South Africa

Royal Malewane

9JCV
OCMGU
KV
URGEKCN!
#HTKECU
NCTIGUV
DWUJ
URC
6JKU
NWZWTKQWU
NQFIG
UVCPFU
KP
C
OCIKECN
NKVVNG
TGUGTXG

YKVJ
C
DGCWVKHWN
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6JG
TGUKFGPV
YKNFNKHG
KPENWFGU

TJKPQU
CPF
CPVGNQRGU
YJKEJ
CTG
NWEM[
GPQWIJ
VQ
JCXG

PQ
NKQPU
VQ
JCUUNG
VJGO
;QWNN
DG
WNVTCTGNCZGF
VQQ
CHVGT

C
UGUUKQP
CV
VJG
URGEVCEWNCT
URC

Wasa Lodge
Kasanka National Park, Zambia

Royal Malewane
Thornybush Private Game Reserve, near Kruger
National Park, South Africa
9JCV
OCMGU
KV
WPKSWG!
+VU
'NVQPU
HCXQWTKVG
'NVQP
,QJP
KU
UQ
MGGP
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VJG
4Q[CN
5WKVG
CV
4Q[CN

/CNGYCPG
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VJG[
ECNN
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VJG
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5WKVG
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OGCNU

9JCV
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KV
URGEKCN!

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OCOOCNKCP

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6JG

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KU
C
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HQT
PCVWTG
NQXGTU

Saadani Safari Lodge

Saadani Safari Lodge

Saadani National Park, Tanzania

Governors Camp

9JCV
OCMGU
KV
URGEKCN!
$WUJ
CPF
DGCEJ
KP
QPG
RCTM
6JKU
KU
VJG
QPN[
NQFIG
KP
6CP\CPKC
YKVJ
KVU
VQGU
KP
VJG

+PFKCP
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PCVKQPCN
RCTM
CU
KVU
DCEM
[CTF

;QW
ECP
UPQTMGN
YKVJ
VWTVNGU
KP
VJG
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JCXG
C

NGKUWTGN[
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VJG
NQFIG
VJGP
JGCF
QWV
QP
C
ENCUUKE

ICOG
FTKXG
KP
VJG
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Governors Camp
Masai Mara, Kenya

Rutundu Log Cabins

Mt Kenya, Kenya

9JCV
OCMGU
KV
URGEKCN!
$KI
%CV
&KCT[
6JG
/CUCK
/CTC
JCU
CNYC[U
DGGP
HCOQWU
HQT
KVU
VJTKXKPI

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NKQPU
NGQRCTFU
CPF
EJGGVCJU
DWV
VJG

$$%U
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%CV
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UGTKGU
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RWV
KV
QP
VJG
OCR
6JG

ETGY
CNYC[U
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CV
)QXGTPQTU
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MPQY

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HQT
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WorldMags.net

Winter 2014 Travel Africa 35

WorldMags.net

Choosing a positive
So you want to stay somewhere with green credentials? What does that mean, exactly, and how can you
nd out what your proposed hosts are doing to support the environment and community? David Bristow
and Colin Bell, co-authors and founders of Africas Finest, make the case for choosing accommodation with
impeccable responsible tourism pedigree.

JG
YKNF
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CTG
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CVVTCEVKXG
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36 Travel Africa Winter 2014

UWTXKXCN
$WV
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CTG
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QRGTCVQTU

CPF
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VJG
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The big green lie

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WorldMags.net

WorldMags.net

Planning

environment?
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RTKOG
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The days of lodges continuing to

spew out carbon pollution to create
electricity should be long over
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WorldMags.net

Winter 2014 Travel Africa 37

WorldMags.net

38 Travel Africa Winter 2014

WorldMags.net

WorldMags.net

Planning

If safari tourism is carefully structured and

managed, it can become the prime industry
that ensures the preservation of the planets
remaining wildernesses
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WorldMags.net

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Winter 2014 Travel Africa 39

WorldMags.net

WorldMags.net

WorldMags.net

Planning

Africas Finest?
The following camps or lodges scored the highest in the Africas Finest evaluation process conducted over
three years and represents what the projects adjudicators deem to be the 50 premier safari properties.

Botswana
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Have your say!

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WorldMags.net

Buy your copy of

Africas Finest
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Order your copy
today from www.
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Stocks are limited.

Winter 2014 Travel Africa 41

Serengeti

WorldMags.net

ADVERTISING PROMOTION

oul of t
he

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res@lemalacamp.com | Skype: lemalanbores

+255 27 254 8966/52 | www.lemalacamp.com

44 Travel Africa Winter 2014

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pioneering journeys
WorldMags.net
Re-Live your
dreams!
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Uganda
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A F R I C A T R AV E L S P E C I A L I S T S

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44 Travel Africa Winter 2014

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www.leopardbeachresort.com

WorldMags.net

We Specialise in:

Wildlife Safaris
Air Ticketing
Mountain Trekking
Beach Holidays
Cultural Tourism
Honeymoon Packages
Balloon Safari
Hotel & Lodges Reservations
Gorilla Tracking
Car Hire
Corporate Events
Tailormade Packages

Our Destinations include:

Tanzania, Kenya, Uganda / Rwanda

TFA HQ, PLOT 76, SHULE ROAD, P.O. BOX 1684 Arusha Tanzania,
Tel: +255 27 854 4633 / 254 5947 Fax: +255 27 254 4991,
Email: info@worldairsafaris.net | Web: www.worldairtravelandtours.com

WorldMags.net

Winter 2014 Travel Africa 45

WorldMags.net

46 Travel Africa Winter 2014

WorldMags.net

WorldMags.net

Islands of Siankaba, Livingstone

Pumulani, Lake Malawi

YOUR PERSONAL TOUR OPERATOR

Photo: The Bushcamp Company

Use our knowledge and experience to plan a vacation you

will never forget! We ll take away the hassle, add something
special whilst saving your money. Our local guides and team
promise awless, meticulously planned, luxury travel to the most
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Africa is our home and we take great pride in showing it o.
Malawian Style getaways vary from high end intimate and
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without faltering on standards; our people oriented service,
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Sausage Tree Camp, Lower Zambezi

email: info@malawianstyle.com

www.malawianstyle.com

WorldMags.net Mumbo Island, Lake Malawi

WorldMags.net

From poachers playground to thriving game reserve: at last

and Gemma Catlin visit Malawis Majete National Park to

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48 Travel Africa Winter 2014

some positive news for Africas wildlife. Aaron Gekoski

discover a conservation success story in action.

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WorldMags.net

WorldMags.net

Malawi

ALL PHOTOS ROBIN POPE SAFARIS, EXCEPT RHINO: AARON GEKOSKI /GEMMA CATLIN

WorldMags.net

Winter 2014 Travel Africa 49

WorldMags.net

From beach to mountain and the Big 5 to kite surfing

Malawi has something for everyone...
Let our experience make your experience
+265 (0)1794 555
info@ulendo.net
www.ulendo.net

ABOUT US
Based in Malawi
Independent Travel, Group Travel,
School Groups, Charity Challenges,
Corporate and Philanthropic Travel
5% of RSC profit is donated to
community projects in Malawi

CONTACT US

50 Travel Africa Winter 2014

WorldMags.net

Picture by Gemma Catlin

info@responsiblesafaricompany.com
www.responsiblesafaricompany.com
Tel UK: +44 (0)208 133 8611
Tel Malawi: +265 (0)111602 407
Skype: responsible.safari.company

Botswana
Malawi

WorldMags.net

Ten years on and, with

the reintroduction of
over 2500 animals, theyve
successfully breathed life
back into this once beleaguered
reserve, creating Malawis first
park to offer the Big Five
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AARON GEKOSKI /GEMMA CATLIN

ROBIN POPE SAFARIS

Walk this way. The

wildlife restocking
programme has
helped draw visitors
to discover Majetes
dramatic scenery

Wildlife relocations in numbers

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WorldMags.net

$WHHCNQ

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Winter 2014 Travel Africa 51

WorldMags.net
Theres something for everyone

 NAMIBIA  SOUTH AFRICA  SWAZILAND  BOTSWANA  ZAMBIA  MALAWI  MOZAMBIQUE 

This serene, beautiful 500 acre Chimwenya game park

and lodge is set in the indigenous forests and grasslands
of the Shire Highlands of Southern Malawi approximately 20km from Blantyre.
Experience exceptional viewing of wildlife which include


      
birdlife.
Enjoy in this tranquil setting our 5 luxurious ensuite
      
with exceptional views. There is also a choice of 20
spacious executive suites.

Two heads are

better than one
Let us help you choose your own safari,

See big and small game and an brilliant

to see southern Africa at the pace you

variety of birds, and all the must-sees in

want to go at. We will plan your safari

this amazing mix of countries, including

holiday with care, to your specifications

the Victoria Falls, Table Mountain and

and timetable, ideas and budget and

all the wonderful World Heritage sites.

we will also suggest our own ideas.

Relax as you discover natures many

Unwind in game lodges, hotels, B&Bs,

secrets, enjoy the excellent food and

guest farms or national parks.

wines, then sleep soundly in the

stillness and peace of the African night.
Africa awaits when will you go?

AFRICA
EXPLORER
Tel: 020 89 87 87 42

As part of the unique Game Haven Experience, treat

yourself, friends and business associates to the internationally designed & constructed Peter Matkovich 9 hole
golf course which combines the amazing natural
environment with a challenging course. Mbawa Country

Enjoy international cuisine at the Ambrosia restaurant,
relax at the picturesque swimming

lawns of Lake Bvumbwe.
Mwana Park is now open, a children's



for relaxing with the family. `

email: john@africa-explorer.co.uk
 NAMIBIA  SOUTH AFRICA  SWAZILAND  BOTSWANA  ZAMBIA  MALAWI  MOZAMBIQUE 

52 Travel Africa Winter 2014

WorldMags.net

game
haven
lodge
+265 (0) 999 971 287/288
info@gamehavenmw.com
www.gamehavenmw.com

WorldMags.net

AARON GEKOSKI /GEMMA CATLIN

Malawi

ROBIN POPE SAFARIS

The big questions

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Top: Much of Majete is covered

with beautiful, mature miombo
woodlands
Above left: Thanks to a prolonged
restocking programme, you
can now expect rewarding
wildlife encounters in the many
waterways of the reserve
Above right: Stepping out. A
suspended walkway over the
river leads to camp

2.#0
;174
64+2
Where to stay
t
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On the app
More photos of
Majete, including
images of the
wildlife relocation, appear
on the App. Search the
iTunes App Store for Travel
Africa magazines.

Getting there
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WorldMags.net

Winter 2014 Travel Africa 53

WorldMags.net

stops
By Phillip Briggs

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RCUV

54 Travel Africa Winter 2014

WorldMags.net

 ARIADNE VAN ZANDBERGEN

WorldMags.net

History

5176*
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WorldMags.net

ARIADNE VAN ZANDBERGEN

Afar Region

Winter 2014 Travel Africa 55

');26

WorldMags.net

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Alexandria

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C
VTKR

56 Travel Africa Winter 2014

WorldMags.net

WorldMags.net

History

'6*+12+#

Axum

SUPERSTOCK / ALAMY

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WorldMags.net

Winter 2014 Travel Africa 57

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Timbuktu and Djenne

58 Travel Africa Winter 2014

WorldMags.net

WorldMags.net

History

51/#.+.#0&

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WorldMags.net

Winter 2014 Travel Africa 59

WorldMags.net
5176*
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AFRICA MEDIA ONLINE / ALAMY

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60 Travel Africa Winter 2014

KARIN DUTHIE / ALAMY

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WorldMags.net

 ARIADNE VAN ZANDBERGEN

WorldMags.net

History

ARIADNE VAN ZANDBERGEN

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WorldMags.net

ARIADNE VAN ZANDBERGEN

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Winter 2014 Travel Africa 61

 ICONOTEC / ALAMY

WorldMags.net

5'0')#.

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62 Travel Africa Winter 2014

WorldMags.net

WorldMags.net

WorldMags.net

WorldMags.net

The Tuli Wilderness in southeastern Botswana truly feels like

a place where time has stood still. The land has remained
largely unfenced and untouched, leaving the wildlife to
wander as instinct dictates. So what better way to explore this
enchanted land of dust than in the footsteps of the giants who
call it home. Tabby Mittins and photographer Villiers Steyn
step into the tracks of elephants to nd out what this beguiling
region has to share.

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64 Travel Africa Winter 2014

Tabby Mittins is a
freelance travel writer
from Hoedspruit, South
Africa. Together with her
partner, Villiers Steyn, she
explores southern Africas
wildest national parks and
game reserves in search of
unforgettable experiences
and sightings.

ALL PHOTOS: VILLIERS STEYN

WorldMags.net

WorldMags.net

WorldMags.net

Botswana

Winter 2014 Travel Africa 65

WorldMags.net
I never knew of a morning
in Africa when I woke up
that I was not Happy

Dave Southwood

- Ernest Hemingway -

www.muchenje.com
Tel : +27 72 170 8879 | Email info@muchenje.com

66 Travel Africa Winter 2014

WorldMags.net

WorldMags.net

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Botswana

Right: Keeping track. Guide

Stuart Quinn reveals the secrets
of the sand. An experienced
guide will enrich the safari
experience beyond measure by
sharing his knowledge of the
workings of the wild

We were met with the initially startled, then

bafed, gaze of an adult female calmly observing
our progress from the rocks just above

Below: No laughing matter. She

says she remained calm, but we
reckon this was quite a test

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Winter 2014 Travel Africa 67

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68 Travel Africa Winter 2014

fiona@ngoko.com +44 (0)1442 827 500

Skype: ngoko.fiona www.ngoko.com

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20932

WorldMags.net

Botswana

5 miles

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Tuli Circle

Above: Highlights. Gazing out

across the endless miles of
Tulis prehistoric wilderness,
you feel powerfully connected
to nature

BOTSWANA

10 km

ZIMBABWE

Mashatu Main Camp

Northern Tuli Game Reserve
Tuli Safari Lodge
Pont Drift

Mathathane
Alldays

Mapungubwe
National Park

SOUTH AFRICA

2.#0
;174
64+2

On the App
A story on the Tuli
Block, from our
archive, appears
on the App. Search the
iTunes App Store for
Travel Africa magazines

GETTING THERE
By road: From Johannesburg
(South Africa) via Polokwane,
Vivo, Alldays and Pont Drift
or Platjan border posts (6-7
hours). It is best to conrm
with Tuli Wilderness which
border post to use, since
some border posts close due
to periodical ooding of the
Limpopo River. Pickups from
the border can be arranged.
For complete directions visit
www.tulitrails.com and click
on Where are we.
Vehicle entry: P195
(Botswanan Pula), also
payable in South African
Rands. Correct vehicle
licence and paperwork are
essential.
By air: Chartered ights
make use of Limpopo
Valley Aireld, located
approximately an hours
drive from Tuli Wilderness.
Transfers to and from the
aireld can be arranged.
WHEN TO VISIT
Trails can be organised all
year round, but the drier

WorldMags.net

months (April to September)

are the best time for walking,
being mild and comfortable,
with daytime temperatures
averaging 20-30C.
The best time for tracking
(the driest time of year)
is from June to October.
Between October and March,
it can be incredibly hot and
temperatures may soar as
high as 46C.
VISAS
Tourists do not require a visa
when visiting Botswana.
However a valid passport,
with at least six months left
before expiry and two empty
pages, is required.
MALARIA
The Tuli Block is located in a
low risk malaria zone, but it
is recommended that visitors
take prophylaxis when
visiting during the rainy
season (December-March).
FIND OUT MORE
Tuli Wilderness Trails
(www.tulitrails.com)

Winter 2014 Travel Africa 69

WorldMags.net

So you want to
see a lion, do you?
Of all the big cats, the lion is the easiest to encounter on safari. While leopards remain elusive and cheetahs
live at low density, lions roar often in the night, males march across the plains, lords of all they survey, and
prides routinely pass the daylight hours if not in full view then in easily accessible pools of shade. Lions are
cats of few mysteries, one of scant species in the wild that can afford to be visible and at rest.
And yet, lions are in trouble.
Photograph: Jonathan and Angela Scott

70 Travel Africa Winter 2014

WorldMags.net

WorldMags.net

Conservation

Supported by African Wildlife Foundation

WorldMags.net

Winter 2014 Travel Africa 71

WorldMags.net

72 Travel Africa Winter 2014

WorldMags.net

WorldMags.net

Conservation

Supported by African Wildlife Foundation

The maneevent
Words: Brian Jackman Photograph: Jonathan and Angela Scott

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 Buy this, the previous or other images as prints from the

Scotts Fine Art collection at www.jonathanangelascott.com

WorldMags.net

Winter 2014 Travel Africa 73

WorldMags.net

Words: Anthony Ham Photograph: Frans Lanting, Mint Images / Science Photo Library

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74 Travel Africa Winter

Autumn2014
2013

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WorldMags.net

WorldMags.net

Conservation

Supported by African Wildlife Foundation

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WorldMags.net

Winter 2014 Travel Africa 75

This spread: Uncertain future:

what do the coming decades hold
for the descendants of cubs such
as these?

WorldMags.net

Previous spread: In the wild, a

male lion typically patrols a vast
territory of up to 100 square miles

PHOTO THIS PAGE: BEVERLY JOUBERT

(WWW.BEVERLYJOUBERT.COM)

76 Travel Africa Winter 2014

WorldMags.net

WorldMags.net

Conservation

Supported by African Wildlife Foundation

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WorldMags.net

Winter 2014 Travel Africa 77

ANATOMY OF A HUNTER
Words: Marianne Taylor

Lions may use their

claws and body weight
to grip and slow down
a struggling animal,
but they usually kill by
strangulation, via a bite
to the neck. The 10cmlong canines, applied
with a bite force of nearly
50 bar, have enough
crushing force to shut
down the throat of the
largest prey.

A running lion times its

strides with its breathing,
so that it inhales at the
point where its extended
forelegs allow maximum
expansion of the very
large lungs. Its ability to
take in large volumes of
air quickly means it can
accelerate rapidly and
outpace its prey in the
rst crucial moments of
the chase.

This young lion shows

the remnants of the
spotted pattern it had
as a cub. Both a cubs
spots and an adult lions
uniform tawny coat
provide camouage: the
former from potential
predators as the cubs
hide in shady cover; the
latter from prey as the
lion moves in the open.

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78 Travel Africa Winter 2014

When stalking prey a

lion uses its whiskers
to detect close objects,
such as vegetation that
could rustle if stepped
on, allowing it to keep
its gaze focused on its
target at all times. This
is especially important
at night, when the fully
expanded pupils make
close focusing difcult.

The dew claw, analogous

to our thumbnail, is clear
of the ground as the lion
walks. It gets very little
wear and grows longer
than the other claws. The
lion uses it to hold down
a carcass while tearing
off mouthfuls of meat.

Central Africa
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SUCCESS STORIES AND SOLUTIONS

Lion Guardians
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WorldMags.net

The pale markings

immediately below the
lions eyes improve
visual acuity by reecting
extra light into the eyes.
Further light-gathering
power is provided by
the tapetum lucidum,
a reective layer at the
back of the eyeball which
bounces light back, to
give the retina a second
chance to harness it.

Based on
trends in lion
numbers
over the
past century,
lions could
disappear
from the wild
in the next
ten to fteen
years

TONY HEALD / NATUREPL.COM

WorldMags.net

WorldMags.net

Conservation

Supported by African Wildlife Foundation

The expert view

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PHOTO: BEVERLY JOUBERT

SEE PAGE 82 TO FIND OUT HOW
YOU CAN SEE MORE OF BEVERLYS
IMAGES SUPPORTING THE NEW
FILM, GAME OF LIONS, BY
DERECK AND BEVERLY JOUBERT

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WorldMags.net

Winter 2014 Travel Africa 79

Mbalageti Serengeti
WorldMags.net
In Your Wildest Dreams
Located off the beaten track in the Western
Corridor of the Serengeti National Park in
Tanzania, Mbalageti offers an exclusive safari
living experience. The Lodge boasts 2 Exclusive
Suites, 24 Tented Chalets and 14 Lodge
Rooms (for budget travellers). All rooms have
en suite bathrooms with luxury amenities and
are designed with attention to the smallest
detail. The Swimming Pool Deck, Bar and
Restaurant, located on the tip of the hill with
a 360 degree view, is the perfect venue for
relaxing after a day of game viewing.

Located on the path of the migration, one

of the ten natural wonders of the world,
Asanja Africa is an exotic, luxury-tented
camp that transports you to a bygone era,
when the Masaai once ruled the wide-open
plains of the Serengeti.
Tucked away in a sea of grass, amidst rocky
islands, known as the Moru Kopjes, which
provide ample shade for prides of lion,
Asanja is a perfect place for game viewing.
Come escape the crowds, and experience
the African wilderness...

info@asanjaafrica.com
+255 (0)78 822 1440
www.asanjaafrica.com

80 Travel Africa Winter 2014

WorldMags.net

For further information, kindly contact:

+255 28 262 2388
info@mbalageti.com
www.mbalageti.com

WorldMags.net

Conservation

Supported by African Wildlife Foundation

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Not every
operator is
perfect, but it
is important
to know that
a trip to Africa
is a positive
thing for the
planet.
Dereck Joubert

Buffer zones
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Anthony Ham is a regular

contributor to Travel Africa,
and the author of the latest
edition of Lonely Planets
guide to Kenya.

The best places to see lions

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WorldMags.net

Winter 2014 Travel Africa 81

WorldMags.net

WorldMags.net

WorldMags.net

Conservation

Supported by African Wildlife Foundation

LAURENT GESLIN / NATUREPL.COM

FUTURE DEBATES
The role of tourism
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On the App

A role for trophy hunting?

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WorldMags.net

Were extraordinarily
lucky that award-winning
photographer Beverly
Joubert has given Travel
Africa readers a sneak
preview of still images from
Game of Lions, the new
lm by Dereck and Beverly
Joubert.
The images appear on
the App edition of Travel
Africa. Search the iTunes
App Store for Travel Africa
magazines.
See also Beverly Jouberts
ne art website: www.
beverlyjoubert.com
For more on the Jouberts
tourism activities, visit www.
greatplainsconservation.
com

Winter 2014 Travel Africa 83

WorldMags.net

The African Wildlife Foundation (AWF) is an international conservation organisation

that focuses on critically important landscapes in Africa. AWF works to conserve
wildlife, but within a larger framework of natural resource management that ensures
the viability of ecosystems and provides access to economic opportunities for
communities living in resource-rich regions. On these pages is a sample of the type
of work AWF is involved in. To nd out how you can help, go to www.awf.org.

JEF DUPAIN

African
Wildlife
Foundation

Local
ecological
monitoring

CRAIG R. SHOLLEY

For the rst time, everyday

Previously only

Congolese are taking

ICCN ecoguards had

Protecting the red colobus

an active role in the

been allowed inside the

According to the International Union for Conservation of Nature (or IUCN) Red List of

conservation of their

protected area. Now

Threatened Species, the critically endangered Niger Delta red colobus monkey population

countrys bonobos. In the

that trained community

has declined by more than 80 per cent in the past few decades. In Niger, AWF initially funded

Congo landscape, AWF has

members are able to enter

a Niger Delta survey of the NigeriaCameroon chimpanzee by Nigerian researcher Rachel

trained 50 people from

to conduct the ecological

Ashegbofe Ikemeh, who is also working to protect the Niger Delta red colobus. We have since

the Congolese wildlife

monitoring, AWF Congo

expanded our support for Ikemeh to create a conservation zone in the Idanre region of

authority (Institut Congolais

Landscape Director Charly

Nigeria. Pictured here is the Ugandan red colobus.

pour la Conservation de

Facheux says they are

la Nature, or ICCN) and

beginning to understand

the local community

more fully the value of

to use CyberTracker

conservation and their role

technology units to conduct

in protecting wildlife. He

ecological monitoring in

adds: It is really wise to

the LomakoYokokala

work with them; they know

Faunal Reserve. The trained

the geography very well.

80%

DECLINE OF
THE COLOBUS
MONKEY
IN THE
PAST FEW
DECADES

individuals walk the reserve

in groups of ve to eight
people, looking for signs
of wildlife and recording
their sightings into the
CyberTracker.

CRUSH ALL IVORY

In mid-November, the U.S. government crushed

lie strewn in forests, on savannas and in

the plight of Africas elephants. AWF took the

national parks, and their stolen ivory ows

opportunity to urge other countries around

out of Africas airports and seaports to illegal

the world to follow suit and destroy their own

ivory markets around the world. The only way

ivory stockpiles. With more than 35,000 African

to staunch the movement of illegal ivory is to

elephants killed for their tusks every year, AWF

wipe out the demand, and that begins with

proposed all countries implement domestic

destroying stockpiles and stopping trade.

populations are no longer threatened.

This new position by AWF comes in

Though a 1989 ban on international

trade in ivory remains in place, many
countriesincluding China and the United

response to the changing situation on the

Statesallow raw and worked ivory to be

ground. Right now, Africa is hemorrhaging

traded domestically.

84 Travel Africa Winter 2014

CONFISCATED
IVORY
CRUSHED

elephants, says Bergin. Elephant carcasses

its six tons of conscated ivory to highlight

moratoria on trade in ivory until elephant

SIX
TONS OF

WorldMags.net

JAMIE COTTEN

WorldMags.net

Conservation

Supported by African Wildlife Foundation

ELEPHANTS
POISONED
IN ZIMBABWE
In October, more than 100
elephants in Zimbabwes
Hwange National Park were
killed and their tusks stolen
when their watering holes and
salt licks were poisoned with
industrial cyanide, often used
in gold mining. (Some reports
are putting the elephant death
toll at closer to 300.)
Though elephants may

have been the target, poison is

indiscriminate in who or what
it kills. Lions, hyenas, vultures,
kudus and other wildlife, in
addition to elephants, have
fallen victim, says Philip
Muruthi, senior director of
conservation science at AWF.
Several arrests have been
made in connection with
the poisoning. Some of the

poachers who were caught

even received 15-year jail
sentences.
Wildlife crime is not
often seen as very serious
and deserving of severe
punishment but these jail
sentences are very high, which
suggests the authorities in
Zimbabwe are taking this
tragedy very seriously, says
Jimmiel Mandima, AWFs U.S.
government liaison and a
Zimbabwe national. Hwange
is a huge area to monitor and
protect. With limited staff
and resources, I suspect park
authorities were themselves

taken by surprise.
Reports suggest many of
the poachers came from local
villages near the park. This
is one of the reasons why
AWF works so closely with
local communities: those
with access to economic
opportunities and other social
benets are less inclined to
turn to poaching and more
likely to help catch poachers
and trafckers.
When local people benet
from living near wildlife,
they will take ownership
of and defend their natural
resources, said Muruthi.

CONSERVATION
CELEBRATIONS

MARTIN HARVEY

As part of the 50th anniversary of

Kidepo Valley National Park, one
of the protected areas targeted
under the USAID/Uganda Tourism
for Biodiversity Program, AWF and
Uganda Wildlife Authority (UWA)
honored 10 Ugandan women
who have shown exemplary
leadership in conservation, including
Dr. Margaret Druciri (pictured),
a wildlife veterinarian with UWA
who rescues injured or orphaned
wildlife. This new Uganda Women
in Conservation recognition aims to
encourage female youth to take
up careers in conservation.

UGANDA WILDLIFE AUTHORITY

Chocolatey goodness
Indulge the chocolate lover in you

our African Apes Initiative to save

while also supporting AWF: through

Africas great ape populations. They have

its GiveBack partnership programme,

also supported some of our rhino and

premium organic chocolate-maker

elephant anti-poaching efforts. Last year,

Endangered Species Chocolate (ESC)

ESC donated well over US$100,000 to

has given ve per cent of its net prots

AWF from its chocolate sales.

to AWF since 2009. Donations from ESC

To buy your ESC chocolate, visit awf.org/

have been instrumental in underwriting

chocolate

For the latest news and updates on AWF activities, follow

us on Facebook, Google+, Twitter or YouTube.
Log on to awf.org and follow the links for social media.

WorldMags.net

Winter 2014 Travel Africa 85

WorldMags.net

The road less travelled

Kenya is not usually the rst destination youd choose for a self-drive safari. So when wildlife
photojournalists Steve and Ann Toon decided to tour its wildlife reserves in a restored but rusting
1970s Toyota Land Cruiser, it was sure to be an epic adventure...

VU
TCKPKPI
ECTTQVU
5GXGTCN
MKNQU
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86 Travel Africa Winter 2014

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WorldMags.net

Steve and Ann Toon

are UK-based wildlife
photographers and
journalists with a specialist
interest in wildlife,
conservation issues and
southern Africa. They are
regular contributors to
Travel Africa.

WorldMags.net

Kenya

ALL PHOTOS: STEVE AND ANN TOON

No monkey business. Located

on the equator, between the
foothills of the Aberdares
and Mt Kenya, Ol Pejeta is
the largest sanctuary for
black rhino in East Africa, and
the only place one can see
chimpanzees in Kenya

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Were delivering
carrots to four of the
last seven remaining
northern white
rhinos on earth

WorldMags.net

Winter 2014 Travel Africa 87

WorldMags.net

$ISCOVERTHEHOMEOFTHETRUE!FRICANSAFARI

WHEREABUNDANTWILDLIFEROAMSFREELYINTHEIR
NATURALENVIRONMENTANDANCIENT
CULTURESSHAPETHEEVERYDAY
3HAREINTHELEGACYOFPAST
EXPLORERSWHOGAVETHEIRHEARTS
TOTHISVASTUNENDINGWILDERNESS
%XPERIENCENATURALWONDERS
JUSTONCEANDREMEMBERFOREVER

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www.saruni.com | reservations@saruni.com | +254 (0)735 950 903

88 Travel Africa Winter 2014

WorldMags.net

@atta_tourism

WorldMags.net

Left: Pelicans generally feed

near the waters edge, where
they catch multiple small sh by
expanding the throat pouch. This
must be drained above the water
surface before swallowing. Large
sh are caught with the bill-tip,
then tossed in the air to be caught
and slid into the gullet head-rst.
Not that the buffalo seems to care
Right: The going is slow, and
4WD is recommended indeed,
essential on many of Kenyas
more rural roads

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WorldMags.net

Winter 2014 Travel Africa 89

WorldMags.net
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GPS

www.flamboyant.co | info@alibarbours.co | +254 733 411110

Walking with Maasai warriors in Ol Kinyei Conservancy, Masai Mara

Porini Safari Camps in Kenya for an exclusive wildlife experience:
Porini Amboseli, Selenkay Conservancy, Amboseli
Porini Rhino, Ol Pejeta Conservancy, Laikipia
Porini Mara, Ol Kinyei Conservancy, Masai Mara
Porini Lion, Olare Orok Conservancy, Masai Mara
www.porini.com

90 Travel Africa Winter 2014

info@porini.com

WorldMags.net

0870-4717122

WorldMags.net

Kenya

A sign of things to
come: the Mara
beckons at the end of a
long sandy approach

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Our driving advice

Guide books and online forums are crammed
with warnings about the risks of driving in
Kenya, but with a little condence and a lot of
common sense we found it can be fantastic
fun. In our experience:


Roads vary from a few slick Chinese-built

modern highways to potholed nightmares
where only goat herders use whats left of
the tar, and motor vehicles take their chances
driving on the unmade verges. Most major
routes are useable if youre alert, but watch
out for the killer speed humps in and around
towns and villages: any warning signs or road
markings have long since disappeared.
Plan ahead. Dont rely on having to ask for
directions: in remote areas you may struggle
to communicate and locals (even policemen)
often have limited knowledge of places
beyond their immediate home. Road signs
generally are in short supply, often absent
even at major junctions. You need a good
map (we used the Reise 1:950,000), and
a handheld GPS might be a good idea. Get
directions from lodges before you travel. Some
will tell you, for example, the mileage from an
obvious landmark to their turn-off.

Local driving standards vary from average

to appalling, and you need to expect the
worst: drivers who pull out from side roads
without looking, overtake on blind bends, cut
you up, fail to indicate, or wave you past when
it isnt safe to overtake.

Plan your itinerary to keep daily travel

distances short, so you can drive slowly.
Where in South Africa we may cover 1000km
in a day, in Kenya we wouldnt plan on more
than 250km. Even major routes are often
single carriageway and snarled up with slowmoving HGVs.

Absolutely avoid driving at night. This is

when many accidents happen.

In central Nairobi there is permanent

gridlock. Everyone ignores the trafc lights
and give way signs (including the police), and
the only way youll get out at a junction is to
push forward slowly but assertively.

Hire a driver. If youre still nervous, many

rental companies will hire you a driver/guide
with your vehicle. Keep your off-roading on the
road. Generally game reserves are very easy to
self-drive in, but be wary of going off-road (if
its allowed), especially in muddy conditions.
If youre an inexperienced self-driver, larger
reserves like the Mara may be better explored
with a local guide or driver, or you can book
onto game drives organised by your lodge.

4WD Hire. We borrowed Barney from a

friend, but more recent 4WD vehicles can be
rented (with or without chauffeur) from several
companies, including Europcar (europcar.
co.ke) or Safari Drive (safaridrive.co.uk).

Recommended reading: The Rough Guide to

Kenya (www.roughguides.com)

On the App
More information on the northern black rhino, and on the places visited by the Toons,
appears on our App. Search the iTunes App Store for Travel Africa magazines.

WorldMags.net

Winter 2014 Travel Africa 91

WorldMags.net

4FDSFU
TUBST
The Kalahari region of southeast Namibia is home to none of the countrys major tourist
hotspots. Its greatest claim to fame used to be a spectacular sandstone masterpiece
known as Gods Finger; but this geological anomaly collapsed way back in 1988 and the
area has languished off the safari circuit ever since.
Intrigued to nd out whether there are any other notable attractions secreted amongst
the dolerite boulders and red Kalahari sands, Stephen Cunliffe decided to set out and
explore. The off-the-beaten-track highlights he discovered among the regions sprawling
sheep farms and wide open spaces dont feature in any tourist brochures. Yet.

Cappuccinos in Kos
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Explore: Drop Frieda an email (friedabarnard@
mtcmobile.com.na) and she will prepare your favourite
dish or pack you a picnic in advance.

Dine under the stars

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92 Travel Africa Winter 2014

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Explore: DuneSong Breathers (www.dunesong.net)

WorldMags.net

Undiscovered Namibia

WorldMags.net

Star struck. A
tranquil night
at DuneSong
Breathers

WorldMags.net

Winter 2014 Travel Africa 93

WorldMags.net
Discovering dinosaurs

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Explore: Mesosaurus Fossil Camp (mesosaurus.camp@
gmail.com)

The devils camel ride

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94 Travel Africa Winter 2014

WorldMags.net

Undiscovered Namibia

WorldMags.net

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Explore: Stay at Quivertree Forest Rest Camp (www.
quivertreeforest.com)

Red dune quad biking

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Explore: Intu Afrika (www.intu-afrika.com)

1 A quirky welcome awaits

at the Moer Toe Coffee Shop
2 Fossil hunting at
Mesosaurus
3 Quad biking in desertadapted giraffe country
4 Dwarfed by the sculptural
ora of the Quiver Tree Forest

WorldMags.net

Winter 2014 Travel Africa 95

WorldMags.net

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Discover the real Africa

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Namibia | Botswana | Zambia
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share our passion for Africa and let us help turn your
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96 Travel Africa Winter 2014

WorldMags.net

WorldMags.net
 





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WorldMags.net

Winter 2014 Travel Africa 97

WorldMags.net

cl se
encounters

As evidenced by the exceptional range of bird and animal imagery in his new
book, An Intimate African Journey, South African photographer and Travel
Africa columnist Lou Coetzer proves how a deep understanding of wildlife
behaviour as well as strong technical ability can help you to capture some
of natures extraordinary moments.
To learn more from Lou, be sure to attend his photographic workshop in Oxford in March, held in
conjunction with Travel Africa magazine. See page 102 for details.

98 Travel Africa Winter 2014

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WorldMags.net

Portfolio

African jacana
chicks are
precocial, being able
to swim, dive and feed
soon after hatching.
The ungainly juveniles
balance precariously
on the edge of a leaf,
sinking slowly, until they
are overcome by the
rising water. Only then
do they reluctantly set
off, swimming frantically
for the next leaf

WorldMags.net

Winter 2014 Travel Africa 99

WorldMags.net

100 Travel Africa Winter 2014

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Portfolio

Botswanas
rainfall peaks
from November to
February, lling the
Chobe River to capacity
and often overowing
its banks. The heavy
rains ll every cavity
in the surrounding
landscape and the
abundance of standing
water causes a decrease
in the numbers of large
animals coming down to
the river to drink.
The crocs in turn are
deprived of their usual
quotas of big prey to
hunt at the riverbank.
Ever the
opportunists, these
predators of prehistory
turn the situation to
their advantage. The
fast-owing waters of
the deeper river make it
difcult to hunt sh, but
the steeper riverbanks
allow them to sneak up
to smaller, unsuspecting
prey. Numerous small
species of game, birds
and even the occasional,
nervous squirrel
milling about serve as
convenient snacks.

WorldMags.net

Winter 2014 Travel Africa 101

WorldMags.net

Photographic workshop
Want to improve your photography
skills? In conjunction with Travel Africa,
South Africa-based Lou Coetzer will be
hosting photographic workshops at the
University Club, Oxford, on March 8
and 9, 2014.
Suitable for amateurs and pros alike,
the rst day will focus on:
t Rethinking the fundamentals of
photography

102 Travel Africa Winter 2014

WorldMags.net

t Photography basics
t Application to
wildlife photography

TRAVEL
AF
RIC
A

African sh eagles are intensely territorial. They will immediately intercept any
invader or predator that dares to intrude on their turf. At the end of the Chobe ood
season, around mid-May, the water level drops quite rapidly. With this subsidence, big
catsh that are stranded in the newly formed mud will go into hibernation. After the rst
heavy rains of the new season in November, the water levels slowly rise. The catsh then
surface from their seasonal slumber. During this transition, while the waters are still low,
the sh nd themselves trapped and vulnerable. Their frenzied thrashing about in the mud
attracts large numbers of birds of prey. On one occasion we observed a greedy juvenile sh
eagle struggling to lift a huge catsh out of the shallow water, only to nd itself defending
its trophy from a concerted attack by a marabou stork.

PHOTO
SCH
OO
L

t Applying your
equipment correctly

The second day will consider:

t Software, workow and editing (top
tips which will dramatically change the
way you work)
For more information and booking details,
visit www.coetzernaturephotography.com

WorldMags.net

Portfolio

I grew up with
Africas amazing
sunrises and sunsets, but
somewhere along the way
I stopped really looking
at them. Perhaps I was
too focused on taking
advantage of the golden
light that each provided.
That was until one winter
evening on the Chobe
River a few years ago,
when I suddenly realised
that every other boat had
stopped for its passengers
to point their cameras at
something. It soon dawned
on me that the subject was
a magnicent sunset.
I promised myself to
never again take any
sunrise or sunset for
granted. Since then I have
disciplined myself not only
to chase the magic light
that Africas sun provides,
but also to stop and enjoy
the beauty of sunrises and
sunsets that are like none
other in the world.
Research has
found that the
relationship between
territorially dominant
hippo bulls and other
bulls can be totally
benign and even
friendly, provided that
the other bulls are
subordinates.
When territorial
ghts do occur they
are, according to
Mammals of the
Southern African
Sub-region, ritualised
frontal combats with
splashing of water
demarcating the
boundary.
Im sure thats ne if
you are a hippo!

WorldMags.net

Winter 2014 Travel Africa 103

WorldMags.net

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WorldMags.net

SUBSCRIBE!

Afridisiac? If you have an interest in the worlds most

exciting continent, well deliver Travel Africa directly to you!

BENEFITS OF SUBSCRIBING INCLUDE:

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Strong advertiser base reputable companies to help you plan your travels.
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Feature

BACK ISSUES

See these and all other available

issues online at
www.travelafricashop.com

ISSUE 64, AUTUMN 2013

ISSUE 63, SUMMER 2013

ISSUE 62, SPRING 2013

ISSUE 61, WINTER 2012/3

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Summer
Winter2009
2014Travel
TravelAfrica
Africa 105

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106 Travel Africa Winter 2014

WorldMags.net

WorldMags.net

Follow the path of nature

on Sibuya Game Reserve
Sibuya is a magnicent malaria-free game reserve
accessed solely by boat via the beautiful Kariega Estuary.
Just 12 luxury en-suite tents, professional guides,
an abundance of game (45 species including the Big Five)
and the splendour of the vistas will leave you saying
Sibuya we will return

Reservations +27(0)46 6481040

reservations@sibuya.co.za www.sibuya.co.za

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WorldMags.net

Winter 2014 Travel Africa 107

WorldMags.net

Thanks to its spectacular diversity, South Africa offers more holiday possibilities than any other nation on the continent.
We asked Carrie Hampton, who has visited more than 200 safari lodges and dozens of beaches, to let us into the secrets of
its best bush and beach destinations.

world in one country, a rainbow nation and Gods land these labels may be
clichs, but theyre well-worn with good reason. South Africa has almost every
kind of landscape, from wooded savannah to arid desertscapes, snow-sprinkled
mountains to sub-tropical forests. There are warm Indian Ocean coral reefs and cold
Atlantic whale breeding grounds. The South African people too, are fascinatingly diverse
in race, culture and language.
While the wildlife-watching opportunities here are rst class, its partly the
mesmerizing sway of the ocean that brings visitors ocking to this country at the tip of
Africa. Who isnt going to feel relaxed with soft sand under their feet and a healthy dose
of sun on their back? Spending time at the beach after all those early morning game
drives in the nations many national parks and private game reserves is surely the perfect
way to end a South African holiday.

MADIKWE, LIMPOPO

Within sight of the Botswana

border and the twinkling lights of
Gaborone, the Madikwe Game Reserve
was created from scratch in 1991 with
a Noahs Ark operation to translocate
game, including cheetahs and wild dogs.
Its been a huge success. With numerous
private lodges, Madikwe is much more
affordable than the private reserves
around Kruger.

WELGEVONDEN, LIMPOPO

Welgevonden Private Game

Reserve, in the rusty-red foothills of
the Waterberg Mountains, is three
hours drive north of Johannesburg. Its
a malaria-free Big Five reseserve, with
small-scale accommodation including
private retreats and commercial safari
lodges with fully-inclusive prices in tune
with the local pocket. The surrounding
Waterberg valley contains many
hunting lodges.

stay at public restcamps inside Kruger

Park. The adjoining reserves are dotted
with upmarket all-inclusive safari
lodges. There are literally hundreds of
options for game drives and bushwalks.
Wildlife sightings are better from a
purpose-designed safari vehicle with a
knowledgeable guide, but you will also
see big game aplenty by simply pottering
around Kruger in a hire car.

Hluhluwe Imfolozi is the jewel in the

crown of KZNs public parks, renowned
for protecting its black and white rhinos.
Watch out for them on a self-drive
tour. Youll nd rhinos in all the nearby
private game reserves too, such as 5-star
&Beyond Phinda and Thanda, and the
3-star & 4-star lodges in the Zululand
Rhino Reserve.

5
3

KRUGER NATIONAL PARK &

PRIVATE GAME RESERVES

This is classic safari country and one

of Africas top destinations for locals
and overseas visitors alike. Kruger has
more animal species than any other
African park, and over 500 species of
bird. Budget travellers can self-drive and

108 Travel Africa Winter 2014

HLUHLUWE IMFOLOZI & PRIVATE

GAME RESERVES OF KWAZULU
NATAL

GARDEN ROUTE RESERVES,

WESTERN CAPE

Wildlife once roamed the coastal belt

of the Garden Route. Some private
landowners are now reintroducing
big game to the beautiful undulating
bushland around Mossel Bay and
other stretches of the Garden Route.
This is a fairly tame safari experience,
with the wildlife carefully managed
within relatively small estates, but the
surroundings are stunningly scenic.

KAROO SAFARI, WESTERN CAPE

Drive for 2-3 hours from Cape

Town into the semi-arid Karoo an
inland plateau of witches-hat peaks
and big-sky landscapes and you can
safari in a private reserve. Some have
vast tracts of land in which lions roam
free, rather than being kept in fenced
sections, and many have the Big Five,
albeit in small numbers. Its a fairly tame
but satisfying region.

EASTERN CAPE GAME RESERVES

This is malaria-free wildlife

country, with a variety of private game
reserves in the wooded hills and bushy
valleys an hour or so inland from Port
Elizabeth. Addo Elephant National Park is
the public game reserve in the area. You
can guess from its name what you are
likely to see here!

KGALAGADI TRANSFRONTIER
PARK

The Kalahari is known for its red sand

dunes, dry river beds and photogenic
gemsboks, jackals, birds of prey and
black-maned Kalahari lions. This vast
park, which extends far into Botswana, is
an important migration corridor.

WorldMags.net

Essential Africa

WorldMags.net

Mapungubwe NP

MADIKWE

WELGEVONDEN

Kruger NP

Kgalikgadi
Transfrontier
Park

Pilanesberg Game
Reserve

Sun City

LIMPOPO

Madikwe Game Reserve 1

Blyde River Canyon NP

Pretoria

Johannesburg

NORTH WEST

Kosi Bay
Greater St Lucia
uKahlamba-Drakensberg NP

Bloemfontein

Cederberg
Wilderness Area

Karoo NP

WESTERN CAPE

Cape Town

CAPE TOWN TO CAPE POINT

BEACHES

Head south from Cape Town to Cape

Point and youll nd many fabulous
beaches. Camps Bay and Clifton, close
to the city, attract beautiful people,
even though the Atlantic is freezing.
Further south, you can go horse riding
along the beautiful, long Noordhoek
beach, galloping through the shallows.
Fish Hoek on the False Bay coast is for
sandcastle building and safe swimming,
with shark spotters on duty. Kalk Bay has
delightful tidal pools and Muizenberg is
great for learning to surf.

LANGEBAAN LAGOON,
WEST COAST

This enormous, azure lagoon has many

attractions, from shallow paddling in
bath-temperature water at Kraalbaai

6
Knysna

Port
Elizabeth

in the West Coast National Park, to

challenging kite-surng and hobie-cat
sailing at the seaside town of Langebaan.

CAPE VIDAL, KWAZULU NATAL

This long sandy beach is great for

sunbathing and low-tide snorkelling.
Its the conclusion of a drive through
the iSimangaliso Wetland Park World
Heritage Site, which gives you a bit
of sub-tropical bush and beach all in
one. Game reserves abound in the
surrounding area.

KENTON-ON-SEA, EASTERN
CAPE

The Kariega River meets the sea at

Kenton, where you can relax on the
golden sand or venture into the Indian
Ocean. This holiday-home town only gets
busy when schools out. Use it as your

WorldMags.net

Shark n, Kenton on Sea, Eastern Cape

beach base after visiting some Eastern

Cape game reserves.

JEFFREYS BAY

PLETTENBERG BAY & KNYSNA,

WESTERN CAPE

J-Bays legendary Supertubes Beach

has a 300m uninterrupted wave, considered
one of the worlds best right-hand surf
breaks. The long sands are always scattered
with surf dudes and bikini babes and theres
a very chilled vibe.Temperatures average
19C in winter and 25C in summer.

On the Garden Route, Plett has scenic

sunbathing and swimming beaches, plus
dolphin-and whalewatching boat trips.
Knysna is where the sea rushes through
a narrow gap in the cliffs known as The
Heads to form a wide, shallow lagoon, good
for boating and cruising.

Winter 2014 Travel Africa 109

Plan your trip

WorldMags.net

Flying around South Africa makes a lot of sense, especially when you
realise its 1400km from Johannesburg to Cape Town (13 hours drive),
and thats not even the full width of the country. There are endless
possible routes, so weve chosen three options with beach and bush in
mind. These can be mixed and matched to suit your preferences, budget
and timings.

Mapungubwe NP

BOTSWANA

Mapungubwe NP

BOTSWANA

Kruger NP

LIM
LI
IIM
MPOP
MP
POPO
O
Madikwe Game Reserve
Kgalikgadi
Transfrontier
Park

NAMIBIA

Pilanesberg Game
Reserve

Sun City

Pretoria

Kgalikgadi
Transfrontier
Park

NAMIBIA

Pilanesberg Game
Reserve

Sun City

LIM
LI
IIM
MPOP
MP
POPO
O

Pretoria

uKahlamba-Drakensberg NP

TEN
GAUTEN
GAU
AUTEN
TENG
NG
Kosi Bay

EASTER
EEAS
EA
ASTERN
ASTE
TERN
TER
RN
N CAPE
CAPE

Cederberg
Wilderness Area

Bloemfontein

Durban

NORTHE
NO
N
NOR
THERN
RN CAP
CAPEE
CA

Karoo NP

Cape Town

Jeffreys Bay
Knysna

KWAZUL
KWA
K
ZULU
ZUL
UN
NATA
AT L
ATAL
ATA
NA

SOUT
SO
UTTH A
AFR
AF
RICA

Durban

EASTER
EEAS
EA
ASTERN
ASTE
TERN
TER
RN
N CAPE
CAPE

Cederberg
Wilderness Area

Karoo NP

EASTER
EEAS
EA
ASTERN
ASTE
TERN
TER
RN
N CAPE
CAPE

East London

Port
Elizabeth

Greater St Lucia
Wetland NP
uKahlamba-Drakensberg NP

NORTHE
NO
N
NOR
THERN
RN CAP
CAPEE
CA

Jeffreys Bay
Knysna

Pretoria

FREEE STAT
S
STATE
T E

KWAZUL
KWA
K
ZULU
ZUL
UN
NATA
AT L
ATAL
ATA
NA

SOUT
SO
UTTH A
AFR
AF
RICA

East London

Cape Town

Blyde River Canyon NP

Johannesburg

Greater St Lucia
Wetland NP

Bloemfontein

KWAZUL
KWA
K
ZULU
ZUL
UN
NATA
AT L
ATAL
ATA
NA
Durban

Karoo NP

Sun City

NOR
NORTH
RTH
H WES
WEST
ES
ST

uKahlamba-Drakensberg NP

NORTHE
NO
N
NOR
THERN
RN CAP
CAPEE
CA
Cederberg
Wilderness Area

Pilanesberg Game
Reserve

Kosi Bay
Ba

FREEE STAT
S
STATE
T E

Greater St Lucia
Wetland NP

SOUT
SO
UTTH A
AFR
AF
RICA

Kgalikgadi
Transfrontier
Park

NAMIBIA

TEN
GAUTEN
GAU
AUTEN
TENG
NG

Kosi Bay

FREEE STAT
S
STATE
T E

Madikwe Game Reserve

Blyde River Canyon NP

Johannesburg

NOR
NORTH
RTH
H WES
WEST
ES
ST

TEN
GAUTEN
GAU
AUTEN
TENG
NG

Bloemfontein

Kruger NP

LIM
LI
IIM
MPOP
MP
POPO
O
Madikwe Game Reserve

Blyde River Canyon NP

Johannesburg

NOR
NORTH
RTH
H WES
WEST
ES
ST

Mapungubwe NP

BOTSWANA

Kruger NP

East London

Cape Town
Port
Elizabeth

Jeffreys Bay
Knysna

Port
Elizabeth

10-day Kruger to Cape Town

14-day Supreme Self-Drive Safari

10-day Luxury Beach and Bush Safari

Kruger >> Cape Town >> Winelands

Kruger >> Swaziland >> Hluhluwe Umfolozi

>> St Lucia >> Durban

Madikwe >> Rovos Rail >> Cape Town

>> Winelands

Days 1-4

Days 1-3

Days 1-4

Fly from Johannesburg to Kruger National Park, to

spend two nights at each of two different safari
lodges. Being on safari can be exhausting: you
get up very early for morning game drives and
theres barely enough time to scroll through your
photographs and have a splash in the plunge
pool or an afternoon snooze, between breakfast,
lunch and afternoon tea. Then off you go on the
afternoon drive, which is immediately followed by
dinner and bed. Before you know it, its 5.30am
and time to do it all over again. But its worth it!

Pick up a hire car in Johannesburg and drive to

Kruger National Park. Self-drive around the park,
staying at pre-booked restcamps. Take some
guided walks and night drives with park rangers.
Spend your last night in the far south of the park.

From Johannesburg, take a 4 hour transfer

to Madikwe Game Reserve, or, better still, y
there. Spend two nights at each of two different
safari lodges and see if you can clock up a rare
wild dog sighting.

Days 4-8

Days 5-7

Exit Kruger Park from Malelane Gate and drive

to Swaziland, less than 50km south. Enter via
the Matsamo/Jeppes Reef border post and hug
the scenic west, leading to the cultural heart
of Ezulwini Valley. Nearby is Mlilwane Wildlife
Sanctuary, a restful place to unwind. Then head
east to Mkhaya, where you can track rhino on foot.

Transfer to Pretoria and make your way to the

private Rovos Rail train station. Board the
most luxurious train in the world for a leisurely
two-night journey to Cape Town. The Rovos Rail
train has exceptionally spacious cabins, with
king-size beds and free-standing baths. Once
aboard, everything is complimentary including
South African bubbly and exquisite cuisine.
Dont forget to dress for dinner: for gents, that
means a jacket and tie.

Days 5-7
Fly from the nearest airport (or via Johannesburg)
direct to Cape Town. Spend three nights in the
Mother City, with a hire car or pre-arranged tours.
You will want to relax after your safari, so grab
a beach bag and head for the Cape beaches.
This will take you on scenic routes with fantastic
sightseeing potential.

Days 8-9
The Cape Winelands has accommodation of every
sort, often with magnicent mountain views and
taxis to take you to restaurants and wine estates,
so you can sample as much local wine and bubbly
as you like. You should note that seven out of
the Top 10 Eat Out Guide Best South African
Restaurants are in the Winelands, so book as far
in advance as possible!

Day 9
Exit Swaziland at Golela/Lavumisa in the south
and within minutes youll see Lake Jozini. A boat
trip may reveal warthogs, buffalos, antelopes and
even elephants grazing the banks.

Day 10
Visit Hluhluwe Umfolozi Park. The camps in this
Big Five reserve are comfortable and affordable.

Day 11-12
Take a boat trip on the St Lucia estuary, looking
for hippos, crocs and amazing birdlife. The next
day, drive through the iSimangaliso Wetland
Park to Cape Vidal beach for some sun and
snorkelling, staying overnight in St Lucia town.

Day 13-14
Day 10
Catch a return ight out of Cape Town, either
direct or via Johannesburg.

Kruger National Park

110 Travel Africa Winter 2014

Drive to Durban and settle into a seaview hotel.

Dip into the warm Indian Ocean, enjoy the subtropical sunshine and tuck into a curry. To extend
your trip, you y to Cape Town for a few days.

Lighthouse in Umhlanga, near Durban

Day 8
The most exciting way to take in the sights of
Cape Town is from a helicopter. There are many
operators in the V&A Waterfront. You can do
anything from a 15-minute Table Mountain ip
to a full hour down to Cape Point and back.
Once youve enjoyed the ride, head to the
swish beach suburbs of Camps Bay and Clifton
for some me time on the sands, followed by
sundowners at a cocktail bar on the shore.

Days 9-10
Cape Town has some of Africas nest wineries
right on the doorstep. Spend a couple of nights
in a luxurious Winelands guest house, dining
at one of South Africas top restaurants in
Stellenbosch or Franschhoek.

Cape Winelands

WorldMags.net

Essential Africa

WorldMags.net

Language

Getting around

English is the ofcial language of

commerce and politics, but South
Africa has a total of 11 ofcial
languages. Zulu is the most widely
spoken African language, then
Xhosa, followed by Afrikaans and
English as a rst language. Most
South Africans speak more than
one language.

Self-drive is a popular way to travel.

A 4WD is not always necessary.
Flying between centres makes the
huge distances more manageable.
Domestic airlines include SAA,
Airlink, Kulula and Comair.

Time zone
GMT +2

International dialling code

+27

Visas
Not required by most foreign
nationals.

Health
If coming from a yellow fever
risk area you may need to show
proof of yellow fever vaccination.
Malaria occurs in the more
northern and eastern parts of
South Africa, so precautions may
be necessary. The tap water is
usually potable.

Money
The currency is South African rand
(ZAR). Exchange rates have been
very variable and 2013 alone saw
large uctuations. At the time of
writing the exchange rate is around
1=R17, $1=R10 and 1=R14.
With the rand weak, South Africa
offers great value at the moment.

Getting there
There are direct ights from most
major cities to Johannesburg and
Cape Town. SAA is the national carrier.

Costs
Private game lodges tend to be
costly, with all-inclusive rates
covering accommodation, meals,
drinks, game drives and guided
walks. Theres also an abundance
of excellent guest houses,
self-catering options, hotels and
backpackers.

Safety
While South Africa has a reputation
for crime, its unlikely that visitors
will encounter any. Follow usual
precautions like checking your
route before setting off, keeping
car doors locked, not aunting
cameras and jewellery when
walking in the city, and keeping
handbags safe.

Books
Road Tripping South Africa (Map
Studio, February 2014) gives
self-drive routes throughout South
Africa, with recommended activities.

Recommended guidebooks
South Africa (Rough Guides, 2012)
South Africa, Lesotho and
Swaziland (Lonely Planet, 2012),
First-Time Africa (Rough Guides,
2011)
Find out more
South African Tourism
www.southafrica.net

Theres no bad time to go on safari, but it helps to understand the

weather. There are distinctly different rainfall and humidity patterns
across the country from the northeast to the southwest.
All but the Western and Eastern Cape game reserves are situated
in summer rainfall areas, which get hot and humid from December to
March. The more it rains, the more the bush grows; wildlife scatters and
becomes harder to see.
In Cape Town, its warm and dry at this time of year just right for
a summer holiday. Sometimes, the strong southeast summer wind
can play havoc with your plans to spend a day by the sea, but Table
Mountain forms a wind break, so you just have to go to the sheltered
side to nd a wind-free beach.
In winter (from July to September) the bush is dry and animals
gather at waterholes. Days are warm and nights are cool. Cape Town,
on the other hand, battens down its hatches for cold winter storms
interspersed with bright sunny days.
The Eastern Cape has scattered rainfall
throughout the year, with a beautifully
moderate climate and good beach
weather all year round. The
beaches of KwaZulu Natal
in the east of the country
are far enough north to
get hot in summer and
are most pleasant
to visit in the spring
and autumn.

WorldMags.net

Locomotion
WorldMags.net

Animals have plenty of good reasons to get on the move. Finding food or a mate, defending their territory and
avoiding danger are among the most pressing. How they move depends on the specic problems raised by
their habitat, such as temperature, gravity, drag, inertia and other obstacles of physics. Nature has risen to the
challenge with a breathtaking variety of modications and techniques some of which are decidedly bizarre.
By Mike Unwin.

SOLVIN ZANKI / NATUREPL.COM

MICHAEL AND PATRICIA FOGDEN / GETTY IMAGES

Strictly come dancing

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Mike Unwin is the author of 100 Bizarre Animals (Bradt), a fascinating compilation of often unbelievable facts about the worlds more
obscure creatures, from which these examples are taken. Signed copies of the book are available from www.travelafricashop.com

112 Travel Africa Winter 2014

WorldMags.net

WorldMags.net

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WorldMags.net

Winter 2014 Travel Africa 113

WorldMags.net
The success of Lou Coetzers images of lions playing
owes as much to foresight as it does to technical
know-how. He explains.

THE STORY
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114 Travel Africa Winter 2014

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WorldMags.net

In conjunction with
Travel Africa,,
Lou Coetzer
is running
photography
workshops in
Oxford on March
8 and 9, 2014. For
details, visit www..
coetzernature
photography.com

WorldMags.net

Photoschool
Strap

Nikon D4, 600mm f/4 VR plus 1.4 Converter

ISO 800, f8 @ 1/4000sec EV -1.7

EXTRA

TIP

Telephoto
tricks When
working with long
lenses (400mm
plus), ensure you are
shooting in the midto-high thousandths
of a second.
To do this,
choose the highest
ISO setting on your
camera that still
renders a great digital
le. This should
allow for fast enough
shutter speeds. Your
choice of ISO will
depend on the camera
model. Make sure you
set it in advance: there
is never time to rectify
your settings during
the action.
Keep it clean The
background and
foreground of a
wildlife photograph
are just as important
as the subject. The
difference between
this becoming a
world-class image or
being binned is the
fact I repositioned
myself to get a better
background.

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This shot was an award-winning entry in the Mammal

Behaviour category at Veolia Wildlife Photographer of
the Year 2013

WorldMags.net

Up your game When

you arrive at a scene
with lots of drama,
take a few quick shots
so that you can record
it. Then relax and
consider repositioning
yourself to get a better
background, and to
make better use of the
angle of ambient light.
A simple decision
like that just might
bag you a wonderful
photograph.

Winter 2014 Travel Africa 115

WorldMags.net

WorldMags.net

WorldMags.net

Daily ights to all Ugandas

National Parks & same day
connections to the Serengeti

100%
Neutral
Carbon
:2008
ISO 9001 d
Certie

+256 772 712557

+256 776 236699
bookings@yuganda.com
www.yuganda.com

LISA
CHRISTOFFERSEN

isa Christoffersen is a Third generation

Tanzanian Born - Danish origin, who grew
up on the foothills of Mt. Kilimanjaro. In
1974 she moved to Denmark, but at the age
of 22 she packed up 22 suitcases and bought
a one-way ticket to Kenya. Since that fateful
return home Lisa has crossed the continent
and explored its every avenue, from business
to the African bush.

She has made a successful career as an Interior

Designer, an expert in African art, as organizer and
hostess of exclusive Bush Trips, and as the author
of the very successful BUSH FRIENDLY TIPS for
girls (and guys), currently in its second edition.
Lisas appreciation and extensive knowledge of
African tribal art, craft and textiles has resulted in
her developing an art gallery: The Home Gallery.
It is the go-to address for African Art Collectors
and Art Lovers from across the globe when visiting
Kenya. She has curated African art collections
for various businesses and corporations such as
Standard Bank Dubai, The Embassy of the United
States of America in Nairobi and the head quarters
of Coca-Cola, East, West and Central Africa.

CO
NT
AC
TS

..Lisas featured

SIMON
MURIITHI

Artists...

ANTHONY
RUSSELL

+ 254 722 703 264

lisa@lisachristoffersen.com
www.african-tribal-arts.com

CHRIS
DEI

NEW WEBSITE
SOON TO GO LIVE

ALEXANDRA
SPYRATOS

Lisa is a designer of hand painted African

inspired Pashmina shawls, items worn by
celebrities including Cameron Diaz, Jane
Seymour, Rachel Weiss, Jessica Simpson
and others.

WorldMags.net

Winter 2014 Travel Africa 117

WorldMags.net

WorldMags.net

WorldMags.net

<CODKC

Like several other safari destinations, Zambia offers visitors diverse attractions
and a great choice of facilities, many with specialist skills or locations. It is
not surprising, therefore, that we are often asked to recommend itineraries or
lodges. However these decisions can be very personal, and no one knows each
business as well as the owners.
So to help you learn more about the services available in Zambia, we
extended an open invitation to accommodation providers and tour operators to
tell you, in their own words, what they have to offer you. The companies which
responded have paid for the opportunity.

WorldMags.net

Winter 2013 Travel Africa 119

WorldMags.net
What is your number one Zambian destination?
Every visitor has a favourite. Some return time and again
to the big-hitters such as Luangwa, Kafue or Lower
Zambezi. Others seek out more off-the-beaten-track
destinations. Not that Zambia really has a beaten track.
Thats the beauty of the country: something new to
discover in every corner.

KASANKA / BANGWEULU
Lake Bangweulu is far from Zambias main safari hubs but the surrounding
wetlands are home to some true gems, with herds of black lechwe grazing to the
watery horizon and rare shoebills lurking deep in the swamps. Kasanka National
Park, a little to the south, hosts Africas largest mammal gathering a six-millionstrong roost of straw-coloured fruit bats and is a top spot for the semi-aquatic
sitatunga. This is not a mainstream safari, perhaps, but a real treat for serious
wildlife acionados.

KAFUE NATIONAL PARK

Zambias largest park has recently begun to regain its reputation
of 50 years ago, when it was the jewel in the countrys safari
crown. Scale and variety are Kafues watchwords, with
landscapes ranging from the wetlands of Busanga Plains in
the north to the miombo woodland of the central districts and
savannah of Nanzhila Plains to the South.
Game is not always as approachable as in South Luangwa,
but all the key players are here, including huge buffalo herds
and numerous lion prides, plus local specials such as cheetah
and sable. Meanwhile the great Kafue River offers some
fabulous exploration by boat.

Mwinilunga
Solwezi
Kitwe
Ndola

LIUWA PLAIN
With annual visitors coming
only by the handful, this
vast expanse of seasonally
ooded grassland is one
of Africas most remote
and least known safari
destinations. Those who
make the trek, however, will
nd a unique and genuine
wilderness, carpeted in
owers, alive with birds and
home to the continents
second largest wildebeest
migration.

Kaoma

Limulunga

LUSAKA

Mongu
Chirundu

Lake Kariba

Kazungula
Livingstone
Victoria Falls

VICTORIA FALLS/LIVINGSTONE
This spectacular southwestern corner of Zambia has something for
everybody. The 1.7km-wide cascade of Victoria Falls has been voted
one of the worlds seven natural wonders. Upstream, nature lovers
can enjoy hidden islands and abundant wildlife on the languid
Zambezi; downstream, the turbulent gorges offer bungee jumping
and whitewater rafting for thrill-seekers. Livingstone, synonymous
with the great explorer, is steeped in both colonial history and local
culture. With any number of places to stay, the visitor will nd the
complete African experience.

120 Travel Africa Winter 2014

LAKE KARIBA
This huge inland sea is Zambias biggest body of water and
one of the worlds largest manmade lakes. Created by the
rising waters of the Zambezi after the river was dammed in
the 1950s, its tranquil vistas are crowned by the silhouettes
of drowned trees and echo to the grunt of hippos. Today
visitors can relax at lakeside resorts, sh for ghting tiger
sh or cruise the wild shores in a houseboat in search of
elephant and other game.

WorldMags.net

Safari planner
WorldMags.net
NORTHERN WATERFALLS ROUTE
The Victoria Falls are not Zambias only spectacular cascade. A number of
impressive waterfalls tumble over the gorges and escarpments of northern
Zambia, from Lumangwe Falls, said to be home to a great snake spirit, to
Kalambo Falls, which tumbles 221m towards the shores of Lake Tanganyika
and is the second highest in Africa. With dozens of waterfalls to enjoy,
plus a rich culture and wild landscapes, this little-known region offers true
adventures to the enterprising traveller.

NORTH LUANGWA / LUAMBE

NATIONAL PARKS
There is more to the Luangwa Valley
than just South Park. North Luangwa
National Park offers perhaps Zambias
most untamed big-game experience,
where visitors can track lions on foot
and follow great buffalo herds far from
any road. Game is skittish here, a
legacy of past poaching, but the sense
of wilderness is that much greater
and the reintroduction of black rhinos
adds a unique attraction. Luambe,
between North and South parks, offers
a delightful stretch of the Luangwa that
you will share only with the hippos.

Isoka

Mpika

SOUTH LUANGWA NATIONAL PARK

Mfuwe

Chipata

Crescent ox-bows heaving with hippos;

carmine bee-eaters erupting from
their sandbank in a blur of rose-pink
wings; the alarm whistle of puku as
a leopard pads through the moonlit
ebony grove: the sights and sounds
of South Luangwa are among Africas
most evocative. From swanky riverside
lodge to rustic bush camp, Zambias
best-known park offers visitors a safari
experience that competes with any
on the continent. Dont miss the night
drives or walking safaris.

MUTINONDO WILDERNESS
West of the Luangwa Valley, over the Muchinga
Escarpment, lies a very different landscape, where great
whalebacks of granite loom out of the dense miombo
woodland, and giant mushrooms grow beside tumbling
streams. Mutinondo Wilderness offers an alluring
back-to-nature retreat, where visitors can hike a network
of trails and discover there is more to Zambias fauna and
ora than just big game safaris.

Language
English is the ofcial language. There are seven main
vernacular languages and over 60 other dialects.
Time zone
GMT+2
International dialling code
+260
Visas
Visas are needed for most visitors to Zambia. They are
available from Zambian embassies abroad or at Lusaka Airport
and other points of entry. Single-/double-entry visas for most
nationalities cost US$50/80 respectively.
When to visit
Zambias dry season is May to November or December. The
rains arrive last in the south of the country.
Health
No immunisations are required by law for entry into Zambia,
although it is wise to have up-to-date vaccinations against
tetanus, polio, diphtheria and hepatitis A. Malaria occurs
throughout Zambia, all year round, and prophylactic drugs are
strongly recommended to all visitors.
Money
The unit of currency is the Kwacha (ZMW). Recent exchange
rates were: UK1=ZMW 8.89, US$1=ZMW 5.44 and 1=ZMW
7.43. Foreign currency (US dollars is best) can be changed into
Kwacha at most banks. Visa and to a lesser extent MasterCard
are accepted by many tourist hotels, and can also be used to
draw local currency at ATMs in the major towns.
Safety
Zambia is generally regarded to be very safe, with malaria
forming by far the greatest threat to life and limb. As with
any foreign travel, always check for the latest updates at the
Foreign and Commonwealth Ofce (www.fco.gov.uk).
Getting there
British Airways (www.ba.com), Kenya Airways (www.kenyaairways.com), Emirates (www.emirates.com), Ethiopian Airlines
(www.ethiopianairlines.com) and South African Airways (www.
ysaa.com) link London and Lusaka via Nairobi, Dubai, Addis
Ababa or Johannesburg/Cape Town.
Getting around
Once in Lusaka, internal ights can connect you to most major
destinations in Zambia. Local buses are cheap and frequent.
There are also luxury coach services.
Books
Zambia (Bradt, 5th ed, 2011) by Chris McIntyre is a detailed,
comprehensive guide to Zambia and its national parks.

LOWER ZAMBEZI NATIONAL PARK

Few corners of Africa can beat the Lower Zambezi for sheer scenic splendour.
Just across the water from Zimbabwes famous Mana Pools, this beautiful
national park is laid out among the statuesque winterthorns between the
rugged escarpment and the mighty Zambezi river. Canoe past great pods of
hippos, track lions through the riverbank thickets, or simply relax in one of
several gorgeous lodges, enjoying a sundowner, as the elephants rumble
past to quench their thirst.

Find out more

Zambia National Tourist Board (www.zambiatourism.com)
* The information and views expressed on the following pages of
the Zambia Safari Planner are those of the participating
companies, and do not necessarily reect the opinions of Gecko
Publishing Ltd.

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Winter 2014 Travel Africa 121

WorldMags.net
LUANGWA RIVER CAMP
SOUTH LUANGWA
This luxurious ten-bed camp is
situated opposite the game-rich
Luangwa Wafwa in the Upper
Lupande. Unlike anything else in
the Luangwa Valley, it combines
all the creature comforts of a
ve-star lodge with the intimacy,
tailored activities and exible
mealtimes you can expect from a
bush camp. Open Jan-Nov.

ROBIN POPE SAFARIS

VICTORIA FALLS AND SOUTH LUANGWA
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STANLEY SAFARI LODGE
LIVINGSTONE
Set on a hill bordering the
Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park
and overlooking unspoilt bush,
Stanley Safari Lodge is only
3km from Victoria Falls. The
views of the mighty Zambezi are
splendid, especially at sunset,
with the spray of the falls in the
distance. Open all year, we have
ten individually designed suites
and cottages.
LUANGWA SAFARI HOUSE
SOUTH LUANGWA
This impressive private
house for up to eight guests
sits gracefully on the edge of
a lagoon system frequented
by large herds of elephants,

122 Travel Africa Winter 2014

impalas and giraffes. Countless

other species use the lagoon
as a source of water and food
throughout the year. Its
magnicently set off by the
backdrop of the Chindeni Hills.
TENA TENA
SOUTH LUANGWA
Situated in the exclusive Nsefu
Sector, this six-tented bush
camp nestles on a double-tiered
river bank under a magnicent
grove of mahogany trees. Each
tent enjoys river views. The
camp is an authentic, seasonal
home, with spacious but
cosy rooms. Being small and
remote, we have wonderful
wildlife sightings to ourselves.
May-Oct.

NKWALI CAMP
SOUTH LUANGWA
Nkwali Camp overlooks the
Luangwa River in superb game
viewing country, with beautiful
ebony woodlands and open grass
plains. There is accommodation
for 12 guests in cool and
spacious en-suite chalets made
of thatch and woven bamboo,
with excellent views of the
river. Elephants often cross the
Luangwa, seen from the bar, or
come to the waterhole near the
thatched dining room. Open all
year.
NSEFU
SOUTH LUANGWA
Nsefu was Zambias rst
photographic safari camp.
Situated in the heart of the
undeveloped Nsefu sector of
South Luangwa National Park, it
offers remoteness and seclusion.
Each room has a clear view of the
river. The bar, tucked in beside
a huge extinct termite mound,
overlooks a waterhole that is
popular with game, especially
leopard. Open Jan - March and
May - Oct.
ROBINS HOUSE
SOUTH LUANGWA
This private luxury house on the
banks of the Luangwa River is
ideal for families, honeymooners
and guests looking for privacy. It
has great views of the river and
the animals that come to drink.
A grove of mahogany and ebony
trees shade the front of the house

WorldMags.net

and provide a perfect lunch site.

There are two en-suite bedrooms,
a main area and a private chef,
valet and guide. Open all year.
LUANGWA BUSH CAMPING
SOUTH LUANGWA
This is an exclusive experience:
walking with the best of guides,
dipping deeper into the bush
from the xed camps by camping
out for a couple of nights, dinner
and stories around the re, simple
but delicious food. Its simple
camping, with a touch of comfort.
The walking is in one of the most
lagoon-rich areas of the Luangwa
and the game is superb.
ROBIN POPE SAFARIS MOBILE
WALKING SAFARIS
SOUTH LUANGWA
This has long been known as
the best wilderness experience
of the South Luangwa. Youll
visit remote terrain and varied
habitats, and may well see rare
species. From ants to buffalo,
a birds nest to tracking a lion,
you will learn the many facets
of the bush. Nights are spent in
a comfortable, fully equipped
mobile camp. Jun-Oct.
COSTS:
Per person per night (including
Park costs), from:
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Safari Planner
WorldMags.net

WATERBERRY LODGE AND THE RIVER

FARMHOUSE
ZAMBEZI
Waterberry Lodge is set in wonderful gardens and
has a breathtaking location on the banks of the
Zambezi. Its perfectly peaceful and quiet, well
away from the noise and bustle of Livingstone, with
just sounds of birds, animals and the river to enjoy.
Our guests love the contrast of
arriving at Waterberry Lodge,
with its green lawns, after a
wildlife safari. Its also a fantastic
place to unwind after a long
international ight. Just relax and
enjoy the view.
There are seven thatched
cottage rooms around the lawns, a
swimming pool, a central dining
area and an upstairs viewing
lounge. Hippos often come to
graze our lawns and swim in our
private dams.
Our wonderful local staff
include great chefs, guides and
household staff who are really
happy to look after you and
to share stories of life in rural
Zambia.

The Farmhouse is a spectacular

colonial style house, with a large,
shady veranda overlooking an
amazing innity pool that appears
to ow directly into the Zambezi.
The house has all the comforts
of home and more including
a private chef, housekeepers,
gardeners and groundsmen. Youll
be waited on hand and foot, with
activities all organised for you. Its
absolutely perfect for families and
groups of friends.
When you arrive at
Waterberry Lodge or The
Farmhouse youre briefed on
what you can do there, and also
what else you might like to do
around Livingstone. Make an
action plan and it gets booked,

with all transfers organised.

Small boat cruises, guided
birding, shing, island picnics
and guided town and market
tours can be arranged. Our local
staff (many of whom come from
the village where we are the only
employer) also take guests around
the village. They are proud to
show the Zambian way of life.
These walks fund the building of
the local pre-school.
Everyone coming to southern
Africa has to see Victoria Falls,
which is just 40 minutes away.
There is also an amazing variety of
activities on offer in Livingstone,
from helicopter ights to
whitewater rafting down the
worlds most exciting rapids, or

WorldMags.net

swimming in the Devils Pool at

the top of the Falls.
We are also 30 minutes from
Livingstone and the international
airport, and within easy reach
of neighbouring Botswana,
Zimbabwe and Namibia.
COSTS:
From US$295 per person
per night for full board
accommodation, airport
transfers and a sunset cruise;
US$157.50 per child aged 12
or under sharing a room
INFORMATION:
www.riverfarmhouse.com
www.waterberrylodge.com
reservations@waterberrylodge.com

Winter 2014 Travel Africa 123

WorldMags.net
SAFARI PAR
EXCELLENCE
LIVINGSTONE
We are an
adventure
activity
company based
on the banks of the mighty
Zambezi, a few kilometres
upriver from Victoria Falls. We
also offer accommodation in the
Livingstone area.
SafPar offers a little bit of
everything to suit all tastes and
budgets, from campsites to
5-star luxury. We also have a
huge variety of activities to offer,
anything from the adrenalinefuelled White Water Rafting (the
best one-day rafting in the world)
on the mighty Zambezi through
to a relaxing sunset cruise.
Our lodges are all in stunning
locations on the banks of the

river. Zambezi Waterfront is

designed to appeal to the young,
adventurous traveller and of
course the young at heart! David
Livingstone Safari Lodge & Spa
and Thorntree River Lodge are
designed for those wanting a bit
more luxury.
All of the lodges have riverfacing rooms and are based in

or very near Mosi-Oa-Tunya

National Park, so guests can do
some exciting game viewing.
Along with our own eet of
vehicles, including buses and 4x4
game-drive vehicles, we own and
operate the following activities:
White Water Rafting, Sunset
Cruises, Game Drives, Canoeing,
Victoria Falls Tours, Cultural

BAINES RIVER CAMP

LOWER ZAMBEZI
Baines
River Camp
is situated
in the Lower
Zambezi Valley
in Zambias Southern Province.
Located within the eastern
part of the Chiawa Game
Management Area, on the
northern bank of the Zambezi
River, the camp boasts
magnicent views across the
broad expanse of this river,
almost a kilometre wide at
times, to the Unesco World
Heritage site of Mana Pools in
neighbouring Zimbabwe.
Baines River Camp is a luxurious,
colonial style lodge with solid
structures as opposed to tents.
Our eight Explorer Suites and
the Baines Cottage command

124 Travel Africa Winter 2014

their own magnicent view

of the Zambezi River from a
comfortably furnished veranda.
Decorated with rich, classical
fabrics, colourful kelims, leather
and cotton percale linen they
take luxury to the limits in the
Zambezi Valley. Our small yet
dedicated team will make you
feel at home from the moment
you arrive, whether you are out
on safari or in camp enjoying a
massage.
Land and water based
activities include game viewing,
canoe safaris, angling and a
variety of professional safari
workshops.
INFORMATION:
www.bainesrivercamp.com
reservations@
bainesrivercamp.com

WorldMags.net

Tours, Elephant Back Safaris and

Lion Encounters.
With our extensive portfolio we
are a one-stop-shop to make both
the booking process and your stay
as smooth and easy as possible.
INFORMATION:
www.safpar.com
zaminfo@safpar.com

Safari Planner
WorldMags.net

ANABEZI LUXURY TENTED CAMP

DAVID LIVINGSTONE SAFARI LODGE & SPA, LADY

LIVINGSTONE AND THORNTREE RIVER LODGE

LOWER ZAMBEZI

ZAMBEZI
Anabezi is located on the banks of the Zambezi
River at the lower end of the Lower Zambezi
National Park. We have 11 luxurious, spacious tents
on raised timber platforms. These are generously
spaced along the Zambezi riverbank at the edge of a ridge providing
magnicent views of both the Zambezi River and Mushika River
ood plain. Year-round grazing ensures spectacular wildlifewatching from the comfort of your tent!
Our accommodation is among
the most luxurious in Zambia and
our location is remote and wild.
The camp takes its name from
Zambezi and the many ana trees
or winter thorns (Faidherbia
albida) that surround us. These
winter thorns drop yellow pods
which attract a wide variety of
animals which wander freely
within the camp. They include
elephants, which are always a
welcome sight.
Our game viewing deck gives
you the best view possible of the
wildlife which visits the river and
the ood plain. Raised wooden
walkways connect the deck to the
dining area and our generously
spaced, luxuriously appointed
tents.
Each of the tents has an indoor
and outdoor bathroom, a spacious
sitting area, two teak double beds
placed within one well-designed
mosquito net, sliding glass doors
opening onto a private deck
with a plunge pool and stunning

views. Our tents have 24-hour

battery power and plentiful hot
and cold ltered water.
In addition to the usual
amenities, we have a large
swimming pool for guests to cool
off, lounge and relax, enjoying
the local climate after the days
excursions. As a nal touch,
a guest favourite, our re-pit,
provides the perfect opportunity
to absorb the local sounds and
gaze at the stars in the crystal
clear expanse of the night sky.
Our game viewing activities
take place both on the water by
boat, and on the land by fourwheel drive vehicles.
COSTS:
US$650-US$850 per person
per night all inclusive; special
rates are available at certain
times of year
INFORMATION:
www.anabezi.com
info@anabezi.com

Situated on the Zambezi River, upstream from the

spectacular Victoria Falls, we offer a luxury safari
lodge and spa, David Livingstone, a triple-decker
river cruiser, Lady Livingstone, and, in Mosi-oaTunya National Park, an intimate lodge, Thorntree.
DAVID LIVINGSTONE SAFARI
LODGE & SPA
The David Livingstone has a
fantastic location on the Zambezi,
5km from Victoria Falls.
The lodge is unique in
structure, aesthetics & dcor.
Our spacious bedrooms have
balconies overlooking the
Zambezi and our suites have
private jacuzzis. Our guests enjoy
highly personalised service.
We have a world-class, awardwinning spa on site.
LADY LIVINGSTONE RIVER CRUISER
This upmarket, ve-star vessel
offers river cruises with a
marimba band, a bar for local
wine, spirits and beverages and a
three-course snack menu.
We can also offer a
personalised historical
commentary, orientation and
explanation of animals and
birdlife by experienced and
attentive guides. The boat has
quality furnishings and facilities,
with three deck levels plus a quiet
open area at the front.

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THORNTREE RIVER LODGE

Our lodge, the Home of the
Elephants, offers intimate,
personalised service in a quiet
location right on the Zambezi
river. Each cottage has its own
veranda with river views.
Wildlife such as elephants,
hippos and plains game visit the
lodge on regular basis to graze.
There are two interactive
animal attractions within
walking distance of the lodge,
the Elephant Boma and the Lion
Boma.
COSTS:
David Livingstone Safari Lodge
& Spa from US$222 per person
per night, bed and breakfast;
Lady Livingstone from US$70
per person including park fees,
snacks and drinks; Thorntree
River Lodge from US$350
including meals and drinks
INFORMATION:
www.thedavidlivingstone.com
lodge@dlslandspa.com
www.thorntreeriverlodge.com

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ROYAL ZAMBEZI LODGE
LOWER ZAMBEZI
Royal Zambezi
Lodge has over
three kilometres
of river frontage
on the banks of the Zambezi, on
the edge of the Lower Zambezi
National Park, opposite the
famous Mana Pools Reserve.
Our lodge, where luxury meets
the wild, is an award winning
destination that provides
ve-star comfort while still
allowing you to experience the
sights and sounds of Africa. We
pride ourselves in creating your
perfect personalised holiday,
tailoring your stay to make it an
unforgettable experience.
The lodge is spacious but
intimate and offers the ultimate
in luxury and cuisine. It is
designed to let nature play a

THE RIVER CLUB

LOWER ZAMBEZI
The River Club
overlooks
a sweeping
bend of the
Zambezi River, 26 km upstream
from Victoria Falls. It combines
Edwardian grace and charm
with 21st century facilities and
has superb river views. This
is the place that Karen Blixen
would have chosen if she had
ever visited Victoria Falls.

126 Travel Africa Winter 2014

leading role. There is lots of space

for all to enjoy a unique, magical
stay.
Our Presidential Suites are
a fabulously romantic setting
for honeymoon couples, with
private plunge pools, copper
bath tubs and spacious lounges
and shady verandas overlooking
the river. While our customised
family suite works perfectly for
family holidays.

The varied selection of

activities is another great reason
to visit Royal from spotting
lions and leopards on game
drives, to canoeing peacefully
down channels of the Zambezi, to
getting up close with nature on
bush walks.
Or you can simply choose to
do nothing at all except enjoy The
Royal Bush Spa or watch the vast
array of animals around the lodge.

There is something for everyone!

It is quick and easy to get
to Royal once in Zambia. Our
airstrip is just ve minutes from
the lodge, and we can organise
charters for you with Royal Air
Charters.

Our lodge is for the discerning

traveller who wishes to see the
best of Africa, uncovering stories
and legends of the greatest
continent in the world.
Our international chef spoils
our guests with her tantalising
array of dishes. A three day stay is
encouraged.

CHIAWA CAMP AND

OLD MONDORO

top five finalists for Best Camp in

Southern Africa in 2011.
Both camps are owned and
operated by the Cumings family,
who pioneered safaris in the Lower
Zambezi. The conservation ethos
shared by the owners, guides and
staff ensures one of Africas top safari
experiences.

INFORMATION:
www.theriverclubzambia.com
www.africanfusiontravel.com
contact@africanfusiontravel.com

LOWER ZAMBEZI
Our camps are
located in the
heart of the
Lower Zambezi
National Park, in prime game
viewing areas with superb views
and wildlife aplenty.
Chiawa is a winner of the Safari
Award for Best Camp in Africa and
Best Guiding Team in Africa. Both
Chiawa and Old Mondoro were

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INFORMATION:
www.royalzambezilodge.com
reservations1@
royalzambezilodge.com

COSTS:
US$500-US$1000 per person
per night
INFORMATION:
www.chiawa.com

Safari Planner
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NORMAN CARR
SAFARIS
SOUTH LUANGWA
Norman Carr
was the pioneer
of walking
safaris and
conservation through tourism.
Today we continue his legacy
and pride ourselves on having
some of the best guides in
the world to take you on an
unforgettable safari adventure.
Zambia has some of the last great
wilderness areas. South Luangwa
is known for its lions, leopards
and wild dogs as well as the
highest concentration of hippos
in Africa, all of which you can see
on foot and by open 4x4 vehicle.
We operate six camps in
different areas of the South
Luangwa National Park. Luwi and
Nsolo are on the dry sand Luwi

River with nearby waterholes.

Kakuli, Mchenja and Chinzombo
are located right on the Luangwa
River with stunning views. Our
main camp, Kapani, is on the
Kapani Lagoon which attracts
elephants, hippos and giraffe at
all times of the year.
The wildly luxurious
Chinzombo Camp, our newest
addition, has been hailed as the
best camp in Zambia.

We partner with our sister

company, Chongwe Safaris in
the Lower Zambezi. A safari
with both of us is a journey,
an adventure and a chance to
create your own stories of your
encounters in the bush, switch
off from the world, be part of
our family for a time, feel the
ground beneath your feet and
the sounds of the animal calls in
the distance.

COSTS:
US$295-US$950 per
person per night, including
accommodation, four meals
a day, standard bar drinks,
laundry, Mfuwe airport
transfers and game viewing
activities

two extravagant suites with butler

service and private plunge pools
on the banks of the Chongwe
River. Guests are afforded the
unforgettable sight of elephants
as they peacefully wander through
the camp on an almost daily basis.
Chongwe River House is 1km
upstream on a private stretch of
the Chongwe River and Kasaka
River Lodge overlooks the mighty
Zambezi River.

Tsika Island is situated in the

middle of the Zambezi, 35km
upstream of Chongwe River
Camp. The island has three,
unassuming chalets and is
completely private and exclusive
to Chongwe guests.
We offer an unmatched variety
of activities including day and
night drives, boat cruises, walking
safaris or our agship experience,
canoeing, which offers you the

opportunity to view wildlife from

a more natural perspective.

INFORMATION:
www.normancarrsafaris.com
bookings@normancarrsafaris.com

CHONGWE SAFARIS
LOWER ZAMBEZI
Chongwe
Safaris is one
of the oldest
and most
reputable companies in the
Lower Zambezi, established
in 1996. Sister company to
Norman Carr Safaris, Chongwe
Safaris is proud to offer an
award-winning formula of
great service in one of the best
locations in the Lower Zambezi.

We operate four camps in

different areas of the Lower
Zambezi National Park.
Chongwe River Camp
lies on the conuence of the
Chongwe and Zambezi Rivers,
opposite Mana Pools. Its eight
comfortable en-suite tents have
wonderful views. There are also

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COSTS:
US$295-US$950 per person
per night, including meals,
drinks, laundry, Royal airport
transfers and activities
INFORMATION:
www.chongwe.com
reservations@chongweriver.net

Winter 2014 Travel Africa 127

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KAFUNTA SAFARIS
SOUTH LUANGWA
Kafunta Safaris
has been
owner-run since
1998. We make
your dream safari come true.
With unforgettable game viewing
moments and personalised
hosting in our lodge and bush
camp, we bring you the essence
of Africa. Zambia has been our
home for 20 years let us share
our passion for Africa with you.

water, ushing toilets and hot

bucket showers.

ISLAND BUSH CAMP

Island Bush Camp, the base for
our daily walking safaris, is in the

far south of the park, a two-hour

drive from the Lodge, through
remote wilderness. Its built from
natural, locally sourced materials.
Its chalets are set along the banks
of the Luangwa River, on stilts
that ensure safety from wild
animals and provide excellent
views of the river.
The camp offers comfort in a
rustic setting. Each chalet has an
en suite bathroom, with running

The Sanctuary
Retreats
portfolio of
luxury safari
lodges bring the boutique
experience to guests with the
added promise of authenticity.
Located in some of the most
stunning locations, each
property is completely
individual in its design and
operated around the philosophy
of Luxury, naturally.

cultural visit to Nakatindi village.

Children of all ages are welcome
in the two family houses.

bird spotting. Endemic species

found here include Thornicrofts
giraffe and Crawshays zebra.

SANCTUARY SUSSI & CHUMA

LIVINGSTONE
Sanctuary Sussi and Chuma is a
collection of air-conditioned tree
houses and two family houses, on
a quiet bend of the magnicent
Zambezi River. Our rates cover
six different activities, including a

SANCTUARY PUKU RIDGE CAMP

SOUTH LUANGWA
Location, location, location
Sanctuary Puku Ridge Camp offers
guests an authentic tented safari
experience in South Luangwa
National Park, one of Zambias
best areas for game viewing and

SANCTUARY CHICHELE
PRESIDENTIAL LODGE
SOUTH LUANGWA
This historic property was
originally built for Kenneth
Kaunda, the former Zambian
president, as his private retreat in
the 1970s. Its an air-conditioned

lodge with the option of an

interconnecting room, perfect
for families. We have a dedicated
childrens programmme for kids
of all ages.

KAFUNTA RIVER LODGE

Situated near Mfuwe, the central
location of our classic safari lodge
allows us to explore vast areas of
the wildlife-rich South Luangwa
National Park, where you can
enjoy daily game viewing in open
vehicles as well as night drives.
Each of our eight luxury
private chalets and the main

lounge/dining area overlook the

game-rich ood plain. The chalets
have been built on raised wooden
platforms, and they are tastefully
decorated with African style and
charm. Additionally, there are two
luxury suites, with an upstairs
viewing verandah.

Fancy combining a stay at both

the Lodge and the Camp? Well,
you can - discount rates apply for
bookings of ve nights or more.
INFORMATION:
www.luangwa.com/our-camps/
kafunta-river-lodge
kafunta@luangwa.com

SANCTUARY
RETREATS
LIVINGSTONE & SOUTH LUANGWA

128 Travel Africa Winter 2014

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COSTS:
Our rates include meals, drinks,
park fees, laundry and activities
INFORMATION:
africa@sanctuaryretreats.com

Safari Planner
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SHENTON SAFARIS KAINGO CAMP AND

MWAMBA BUSH CAMP
SOUTH LUANGWA
Our camps are located in the northern part of the South
Luangwa National Park, in the prime game viewing
area, far from all the other camps, with the territories of
three large lion prides and a dozen leopards nearby.
Kaingo Camp is on the bank
of the Luangwa River, with
six chalets overlooking the
river, while our little bush
camp Mwamba is set on the
meandering curve of the
Mwamba River. With hides
and some of the best guides
in southern Africa, Shenton

Safaris is the destination

of choice for professional
and amateur wildlife
photographers.
What we are most famous
for is our unique network
of photographic hides. Our
Hippo Hide has been used by
the BBC, National Geographic

and Discovery Channel. In

late August we set up our
Carmine Bee-Eater Hide which
offers amazing photographic
opportunities, and our Last
Waterhole hide at Mwamba
becomes very active with
thirsty animals coming to drink
at the last available water in the
area.
We offer visits to the hides,
game drives and bush walks on
a daily basis.
Guests at Kaingo can enjoy
stunning river views from their
decks overhanging the river,
watching animals come down
to drink. More rustic and bushy,

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Mwamba has just four chalets

made of reed and thatch with
open air bathrooms. Wildlife
roams freely through the camp.
We also offer adventurous
options such as spending the
night on a platform near the
river or in the plains, or going
y camping in a particularly
remote area of the park.
COSTS:
From US$605 per person per
night
INFORMATION:
www.kaingo.com
info@kaingo.com

Winter 2014 Travel Africa 129

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LION CAMP
SOUTH LUANGWA
Located deep
inside South
Luangwa
National Park,
Lion Camp is situated on an
oxbow lagoon, overlooking an
open plain which teems with
game. By night, the plain is a
hunting ground for lions.
Our location, 40km from the
main park gates, in an abundant
and pristine wildlife area, provides
an exclusive and authentic safari
experience, with exciting game
viewing from the doorstep.
Named due to the high density
of lions in the area, we also have
excellent leopard sightings and
there are plenty of other animals in
the vicinity, including wildebeest.
Our experienced guides offer
walks and game drives.

The camp is independent and

stylish, with personalised service
and attention to detail. We have
just nine canvas and thatch chalets
accommodating a maximum of
18 guests. Built on raised wooden
platforms, they are linked to each
other and the main area by a raised
wooden boardwalk. Each chalet
has either a four poster king-size
double bed or twin beds, and a
walk-in mosquito net. They are all

en suite with a shower and toilet,

and have private decks overlooking
the open plain in front.
Heart-pounding adventure and
a soul soothing escape. Thrilling
gameviewing in a spectacular
natural environment. Exhilarating
and conservative.Its all part of the
concept of balance and harmony at
Lion Camp.
Due to accessibility we are
only open during the peak game

viewing months, from 1 June to

31 October.

lagoons. Here, you can have

great bushwalks with superb
game-viewing all to yourself.
Each camp has a unique
design and offers high levels of
comfort and cuisine. We place
great emphasis on our guests
enjoying the best possible bush
experience and employ some of
Africas most knowledgeable and
experienced wildlife guides.
South Luangwa is the home

of the walking safari and we

offer ample opportunity to
explore pristine areas and view
big game on foot. As our motto
says, From a vehicle you see
Africa. On foot you feel, hear
and smell Africa.
South Luangwa is also
rightly famous as being one
of the very best places to see
leopards. All our camps offer
morning, afternoon and

night drives in open 4x4 drive

vehicles, to watch, and hopefully
photograph, these and other
predators in action.

COSTS:
We offer affordable rates.
INFORMATION:
www.lioncamp.com
info@lioncamp.com

THE BUSHCAMP
COMPANY
SOUTH LUANGWA
Our properties
can all be
found in superb
locations within
South Luangwa National Park,
one of Africas premier wildlife
sanctuaries, with beautiful
scenery, varied habitats and
high concentrations of wildlife.
Mfuwe Lodge, our agship
property, is situated between
two oxbow lagoons, about
three kilometres from the park
entrance and convenient for
Mfuwe airport.
Our six small, intimate
seasonal bush camps are located
in the more remote south of
the park overlooking either the
main Luangwa River or sited
along tributary rivers and oxbow

130 Travel Africa Winter 2014

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COSTS:
US$400-$600 per person per
night
INFORMATION:
www.bushcampcompany.com
info@bushcampcompany.com

Safari Planner
WorldMags.net

FLATDOGS CAMP
SOUTH LUANGWA
Situated on
the banks
of the
Luangwa
River looking right into
the national park, Flatdogs
has earned a great
reputation with its unique
style, friendly team and
exceptional safari guides.
Jess, Ade and Paolo are
always on hand to make sure
that your whole Zambian
experience is a fantastic one.
Their personal attention to
detail is one of the reasons
that guests return to this
exceptionally good value
safari camp.
Our safari guides have
an incredible feel for
the wildlife of the South

Luangwa National Park and

their experience allows them to
anticipate behaviour ahead of
time so as to position their guests
in the best place to get the most
from each sighting. They will
bring the park to life for you and
their encyclopedic knowledge
will astound you.
In camp, there are no set
meals or meal times. Our guests
can order what theyd like to eat,

when theyd like to eat it. Theres

plenty to enjoy on our bistro-style
la carte menu and daily specials.
As much as possible is made
from scratch, such as our our
bread, nachos, ery chilli sauce
and tangy pawpaw chutney.
Our staff, who are nearly all
from the local area, are always
delighted to chat about life in
rural Zambia or to discuss the
latest football scores!

guide you on foot from camp

to camp, following the animal
footpaths.
On the clear Mwaleshi
stream, the honey pot of the
North Luangwa National Park,
is Mwaleshi Camp, a beautiful,
intimate seasonal retreat
with just 4 chalets sleeping a
maximum of 8 guests.
We are walking safari
specialists, with exceptional

guides. Uniquely, we also offer

microlighting and mountain
biking at Taka.
Our game drive vehicles
each take a maximum of four
guests in two rows. We tailor
our activities to our guests
requirements. Private guiding
with sole use of a vehicle can be
pre-booked if required. We also
operate our own C210 plane for
our guests convenience.

COSTS:
US$220-US$440 per person
per night, including all meals,
park fees and safari activities
INFORMATION:
www.atdogscamp.com
info@atdogscamp.com

REMOTE AFRICA
SAFARIS
NORTH AND SOUTH LUANGWA
With 30 years
of experience,
we are a familyrun operation
and the only local company with
camps in both the North and
South Luangwa National Parks.
Our agship camp, Taka Camp,
overlooks a sweeping bend of
the Luangwa River on the remote
northern boundary of the South
Luangwa National Park.
Within the South Luangwa
National Park, on the west
bank of the Luangwa River, are
Takas satellite camps, Chikoko
Trails (Chikoko Tree Camp and
Crocodile Camp), which are
only accessible on foot, with just
3 chalets per camp sleeping a
maximum of 6 guests. We can

WorldMags.net

COSTS:
Rates per person per night:
t
5Bm
LB
6464
t
$IJLPLP
5SBJMT
64
64
t
.XBMFTIJ
6464
We offer a discount for stays of
seven nights or more.
INFORMATION:
www.remoteafrica.com
reservations@remoteafrica.com

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THORNICROFT LODGE
SOUTH LUANGWA
Thornicroft is a
small intimate
bush-style
lodge in a
beautiful location on the banks
of the Luangwa River, home to
wallowing hippos and bathing
elephants. We are less than ten
minutes from the best wildlifewatching areas in the park.
At Thornicroft you can explore
the ultimate destination for lions
and leopards on unforgettable
game drives with expert guides.
We have nine charming
en-suite chalets with river views.
Each can easily accommodate two
adults and a child.
The chalets are equipped with
double or twin beds draped with
mosquito nets. We have paid
special attention to the mattresses

and linen, but you will also

appreciate the private bathroom
(with a lovely hot walk-in shower),
as well as the verandah and the
huge windows with views that
might mean youre on 24-hour
safari if you choose not to drop
your blinds!
There are also eight permanent
two-person dome tents with
shared bathroom facilities near
the lagoon that offer an excellent

opportunity to safari on a budget.

Enjoy morning, afternoon and
night safaris in our open 4x4s,
led by qualied guides with an
exceptional in- depth knowledge
of the park.
Thornicroft is classically
simple, with scrumptious
food, and is perfect for couples,
families or groups looking for an
authentic safari experience in a
small lodge, at an affordable price.

COSTS:
From US$195 per person per
night for food, game drives and
accommodation in a river-view
chalet; US$150 per person per
night for food, game drives
and accommodation in a tent

woodland. This is an enchanting

spot for birdwatching, with
Pels shing owls present. Kafue
has more than 160 species of
mammals, including 21 antelope
species and a population of wild
dogs.
Our highly experienced guide,
Stephen Banda, specialises in
walking safaris and night drives.
A few miles away from
Konkamoya is the unforgettable

experience of the Elephant

Orphanage Project.
The camp runs on solar
power, Wi-Fi is free and the staff
is local, although the owner
brings an unexpected Italian
touch, especially in the kitchen.
We can assist with safari
planning in the Kafue National
Park and transfers from or to
Livingstone, Lusaka, Ngoma
airstrip and the other lodges.

COSTS:
US$350 per person per night;
no single supplement; family
rates available

INFORMATION:
www.thornicroft-lodge.com
info@thornicroft-lodge.com

KONKAMOYA LODGE
KAFUE
Konkamoya
is a boutique
lodge in a
beautiful
location on the Itezhi Tezhi
lakeshore in Kafue National
Park, a ve-hour drive from
Victoria Falls and the capital,
Lusaka.
Konkamoya in the Nianja
language means Follow the
wind.
Our lodge has just four
luxurious safari tents that can
host up to eight guests, offering
a close encounter with the true
wilderness of Kafue National
Park. The lodge is secluded,
peaceful and unfenced.
Itezhi Tezhi Lake covers
an area of 370 square km and
is surrounded by mopane

132 Travel Africa Winter 2014

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INFORMATION:
www.konkamoya.com
info@konkamoya.com
availability@konkamoya.com

Safari Planner
WorldMags.net

WILDERNESS SAFARIS
ZAMBEZI AND KAFUE
Wilderness
Safaris is an
ecotourism
company
specialising in memorable
wildlife experiences in some of
the most remote and pristine
areas in Africa. We are ercely
committed to protecting Africas
precious natural and cultural
resources while sharing tourisms
benets with its people.
In Zambia, we operate exciting
bush camps and lodges in Kafue
National Park and in the Victoria
Falls area.
Experiencing both areas gives
a fantastic all-round perspective
on the countrys fascinating
landscape and wildlife.
Shumba Camp and Busanga
Camp are located on the vast

Busanga Plains within the Kafue

National Park, one of the largest
in Africa.
Owing to its diverse
habitats, the Busanga Plains is
known to be perhaps the prime
wildlife-viewing destination
in the country. Here guests are
blessed with sightings of our
famous tree-climbing lions and
are also afforded the amazing
opportunity of spotting game

from a hot air balloon.

Our luxurious Toka Leya
Camp and The River Club are in
the Victoria Falls area.
They both overlook the
impressive Zambezi River. Not
only is the imposing and famous
Victoria Falls a must-see, but
thrilling adrenaline activities
and game viewing in the area
makes for a fantastic launch or
departure point to any safari.

COSTS:
Per person per night, from:
t
Busanga Bush Camp US$799
t
4IVNCB
$BNQ
64
t
5PLB
-FZB
$BNQ
64

t
5IF
3JWFS
$MVC
64
Rates include meals, drinks,
activities, laundry and park fees

Kafue, being highveld, has

species not seen in the busier
lowveld parks such as South
Luangwa and Lower Zambezi.
Unusually, we have both
plains game and thicket dwelling
game in the vicinity, and can
see zebras, reedbucks, cheetahs,
oribi, leopards, elephants, kudus,
bushbucks and duikers to name
but a few.
We stay open in January,

February and March when

many other camps in Zambia are
closed. Wild dog sightings can
be excellent! Lions are always
plentiful, too .
In the Kafue we work together
not against each other. We can
link with any other camps in the
park. You will traverse the park by
vehicle very exciting! Just bear
in mind the park is huge top to
bottom can be four days drive.

COSTS:

QFS
QFSTPO
QFS
OJHIU

including park fees, activities,
full board en-suite tented
accommodation, laundry; no
single supplement

INFORMATION:
www.wilderness-safaris.com
enquiry@wilderness.co.za

KAFUE CAMPS &

SAFARIS
MAYUKUYUKU BUSH CAMP
KAFUE
Open all year,
Mayukuyuku
has a stunning
location on the
Kafue River with rapids nearby.
We have spectacular views over
an island which is an Ila Chief
Burial Ground.
Our guests, who leave superb Trip
Advisor reviews and often keep
in touch on Facebook, regularly
comment on our fabulous guides
and staff. Our camp managers and
guides eat with our guests and are
always ready to discuss wildlife
and all things Zambian. This is a
99% Zambian-run operation.
We still have the luxury of
seldom seeing any other vehicles
on any game drives.

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INFORMATION:
www.kafuecamps.com
info@kafuecamps.com

Winter 2014 Travel Africa 133

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PIONEER LODGE AND CAMP

SAFARI CONSULTANTS

LUSAKA AND ZAMBIA-WIDE

ZAMBIA-WIDE

Pioneer Lodge and Camp is the most relaxing

property in the Lusaka area. We offer 14 thatched
chalets, ranging in comfort from simple and stylish
to luxurious, and a beautiful two-bedroom cottage,
each set within our 25 acres of gardens and miombo woodland. You
can safely walk around the property, which is great for birding.

Established in 1983, Safari Consultants is a leading specialist in

tailor-made African safari holidays. We cover East and Southern
Africa, offering a wide range of holiday options. However, we are
especially known for our in-depth knowledge of safari Africa, and
we are particularly passionate about Zambia because it offers such
unspoilt and authentic safari experiences.

Within easy reach of Lusaka,

which is 14km away, we are the
best option for those who wish
to stay near the airport or the
capital yet still feel as though they
are on safari.
We are the Gateway to
Zambia, the place where you
should begin or nish your safari.
Our lodge is built and
maintained to a very good
standard and our rates are
extremely reasonable.
Our eight Miombo chalets,
with private bathrooms
and terraces, offer a high
level of comfort, privacy and
beautiful views of the Zambian
countryside.
At the centre of Pioneer is an
open thatched bar/restaurant
or chitenge, open from 7am to
11pm each day. Its the place to
exchange tales of adventure with
your fellow travellers. Breakfast,
lunch and dinner are served here.
Pioneer is well known for the
candlelit braai meals served in the
evenings in particular our tasty
500g T-bones!
Pioneer was originally just a

Aside from the majestic Victoria

Falls, Zambia is perhaps best
known for its walking safaris, and
there is certainly nowhere else
in Africa where so many good
walking options exist.
But which camp, company or
guide will be best for you?
Would you prefer a gentle
introduction to a walking safari,
with walking combined with
game drives and luxurious
accommodation, or are you an
experienced African adventurer
seeking an exclusive wilderness
and walking experience?
Do you enjoy a social
atmosphere in the evenings,
meeting other guests, or are you
seeking the solitude of the bush,
more content with the sound of
hippos snorting and the clash of
buffalo horns in the darkness?
We know the differences
between the areas in which
different companies operate,
which operators offer the best
value for money, and who are the
really top safari guides that can
enhance your safari experience
from good to amazing.

134 Travel Africa Winter 2014

camping site with a few basic

amenities, and we havent
forgotten our roots. We still
provide a fabulous (and much
improved and upgraded)
camping location for those
wanting to get close to nature.
For self-drive travellers, Pioneer
Camp provides the perfect
stopover, where you can chat
about routes and experiences
with fellow self-drivers whilst
enjoying our comfortable
facilities and surroundings.
We also organise mobile
safaris, which take you well off
the beaten trail. We escort people
all over the country, on tailormade or suggested itineraries.
We have covered Zambia in depth
and we know it well.
COSTS:
Miombo chalets US$155 per
person per night, including
return airport transfers, dinner,
bed and breakfast
INFORMATION:
www.pioneercampzambia.com
mail@pioneercampzambia.com

WorldMags.net

Whatever your individual

interests and requirements, Safari
Consultants has the expertise
and desire to work with you
to build your perfect Zambia
safari itinerary. We believe that
planning and booking a specialist
safari holiday should be a fun and
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We also offer you peace of
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ABTOT membership (No. 5246).
We are members of AITO (The
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Operators) and feedback from our
clients can be seen on their website.
If you are considering a safari
in Zambia then we would love to
hear from you!
INFORMATION:
www.safari-consultants.com
info@safariconsultantuk.com
+44 (0)1787 888590

WorldMags.net
Safari planner
The following is an index of all advertisers in this edition, with a cross-reference to the
page on which their advertisement appears. If you would like to receive information from
any of our advertisers, please contact them directly, saying that you saw their advert in
this magazine. Alternatively, you can get further information about them by visiting our
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Kafunta Safaris
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Norman Carr Safaris
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Pioneer Lodge & Camps
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Remote Africa Safaris
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Robin Pope Safaris
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Royal Zambezi Lodge
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The River Club
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Thornicroft Lodge
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Waterberry Lodge and The River
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Africa Albida Tourism
African Bush Camps
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Contact us for exclusive tailor-made holidays to Africa and

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WorldMags.net

Winter 2014 Travel Africa 135

Parting shot

WorldMags.net

Keep smiling
The best doctor will always encourage you to
smile, have fun and make someone happy.
Photograph by Manoj Shah /Getty Images.
For Dave.

136 Travel Africa Winter 2014

WorldMags.net

FOR EXCEPTIONAL SUPPORTERS OF THE AFRICAN WILDLIFE FOUNDATION

WorldMags.net

Special

AWF
issu
e

So you want to see

lions in the wild? What its like...
and why theyre ghting for survival

Conservation lodges t Q&A with AWF CEO t Project updates

Tackling wildlife trafcking t Advising South Sudan
WorldMags.net

WorldMags.net
AWF.ORG AFRICANWILDLIFE@AWF.ORG
Facebook.com/AfricanWildlifeFoundation
@AWF_Ofcial
Kenya: Ngong Rd, Karen, P O Box 310, 00502, Nairobi
USA: 1400 Sixteenth St, N.W, Suite 120,
Washington, DC 20036

Chief Executive Ofcer

Patrick J Bergin, Ph.D
Vice President for Philanthropy and Marketing
Craig R Sholley
Director of Marketing and Membership
John W Butler, Jr
Senior Writer and Publications Manager
Mayu Mishina
Contributors
Marie Frei, Kathleen Garrigan, Gayane Margaryan

ADAPTING TO

change

TRAVEL AFRICA is published by Gecko Publishing

ISSN 1561-2783
This edition, Winter 2014, published 1 January 2014.
Gecko Publishing Ltd, The Dovecote, Little Baldon
Oxford, OX44 9PU, United Kingdom
Tel: +44 (0)1844 278883, Fax: +44 (0)1844 278893
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Copyright 2014 Gecko Publishing Ltd. No

part of this magazine may be reproduced
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publisher. While every effort is made to
ensure that the contents of Travel Africa
are accurate at the time of going to press,
the publisher cannot accept responsibility
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Subscriptions
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* Note, the print and app
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choose your preferred option.

Travel Africa AWF Supplement Winter 2014

ne of the biggest
challenges wildlife faces
in Africa is the extremely
rapid pace at which the
continent is developing and changing.*
African Wildlife Foundation (AWF),
therefore, regularly evaluates and updates
its conservation strategies in order to stay
relevant and effective on the ground.
Since our founding, we have been
well positioned to help guide change to
ensure Africas incredible wildlife resource
remains secure.
Speaking of change, AWF is pleased
to announce a new partnership with Travel
Africa magazine. This will take the place of
our long-standing relationship with Africa
Geographic. As an exclusive donor benet,
you will now receive special AWF editions
of this fantastic publicationproviding
you with in-depth updates on what your
donor dollars are doing for wildlife, as
well as fresh and engaging content on
conservation, travel, and issues impacting
the continent. Though it is a departure from
the past, we believe this new partnership
is a positive change that will ensure you
remain informed and inspired by Africa.
As you might deduce, Travel Africa
offers particularly interesting travel
coverage related to Africas landscapes. In
our premier issue, we have focused on that
travel theme and revisited some of the
many conservation lodges AWF has helped
communities establish over the years.
When done well, these lodgesmany
of which are community ownedaccrue
signicant benets for people and wildlife

alike, and our main feature story on page 8

examines what those benets look like.
Such projects help counter the illegal
wildlife trade by providing local residents
alternatives to poaching for income. The
war against illegal wildlife trafcking is a
complex one, however, that necessitates
collaboration with a whole spectrum of
stakeholders. Page 4 offers the latest
updates on an issue previously considered
an African problem but now recognized as
a truly global challenge.

When done well,

these lodges accrue
signicant benets for
people and wildlife alike
As these and other stories portray,
Africa is a dynamic continentand its
thanks to you that AWF continues to
successfully address the changes and
challenges as they arise. Whether we are
investing in a new class of Conservation
Management Trainees (page 6) or working
to create a culture of conservation in the
new country of South Sudan (page 14),
your support is evident throughout this
issue and on the ground. As always, thank
you for your involvement in conserving the
wildlife and wild lands of this continent we
all love.

PATRICK J. BERGIN, PH.D.

CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER

* For more on development and other issues impacting Africa and AWFs work there,
check out the Q&A I did with our publications staff. You can nd it on pages 12 13.

WorldMags.net

WorldMags.net

WHATS INSIDE
How your assistance is helping to drive conservation programs across Africa

YOUR
SUPPORT
REALLY
HELPS
PLEASE VISIT
AWF.ORG/
DONATE

TRAINEES
06CONSERVATION

MARTIN HARVEY

Meet the new class of trainees now in the eld and

see how theyre already making a big difference

08
CONSERVATION

02

NEWS ROUNDUP

Updates on our activities across Africa,

including projects to help the red colobus, rhinos,
elephants, and great apes, as well as AWFs
efforts in the ght against poaching and illegal
wildlife trafcking

ENTERPRISES

GETTING DOWN
TO BUSINESS

JULIE LARSEN MAHER WILDLIFE CONSERVATION SOCIETY

How AWFs investment in

conservation-based tourism
enterprises is paying dividends
for Africas wildlife and people

14 SOUTH SUDAN

EXCITING OPPORTUNITIES

James Kahurananga, AWFs technical advisor in South Sudan,

offers an insiders view on that countrys conservation potential,
which includes Africas second-largest mammal migration

12Q&A

WITH PATRICK BERGIN

Our CEO gives his take on the state of conservation

in Africa and AWFs role going forward

16

WEB
WATCH

FIACHRA KEARNEY

WHATS HAPPENING
See how technology is
allowing AWF supporters to
get close to some of Africas
most elusive creatures

WorldMags.net
Winter 2014 African Wildlife Foundation Special Section 1

AWF roundup

WorldMags.net

NEWS FROM
The latest updates on our various projects across the continent

According to the International Union for Conservation of Nature (or IUCN) Red List of
Threatened Species, the critically endangered Niger Delta red colobus monkey population

JEF DUPAIN

Protecting the red colobus

Local
ecological
monitoring

has declined by more than 80 percent in the past few decades. In Niger, AWF initially funded
For the rst time, everyday

for signs of wildlife and

Ashegbofe Ikemeh, who is also working to protect the Niger Delta red colobus. We have since

Congolese are taking

recording their sightings

expanded our support for Ikemeh to create a conservation zone in the Idanre region of

an active role in the

into the CyberTracker.

Nigeria. Pictured here is the Ugandan red colobus.

conservation of their

CRAIG R. SHOLLEY

a Niger Delta survey of the NigeriaCameroon chimpanzee by Nigerian researcher Rachel

80%

DECLINE OF
THE COLOBUS
MONKEY
IN THE
PAST FEW
DECADES

Previously only

countrys bonobos. In the

ICCN ecoguards had

Congo landscape, AWF has

been allowed inside the

trained 50 people from

protected area. Now

the Congolese wildlife

that trained community

authority (Institut Congolais

members are able to enter

pour la Conservation de la

to conduct the ecological

Nature, or ICCN) and the

monitoring, AWF Congo

local community to use

Landscape Director Charly

CyberTracker technology

Facheux says they are

units to conduct ecological

beginning to understand

monitoring in the

more fully the value of

LomakoYokokala Faunal

conservation and their role

Reserve. The trained

in protecting wildlife. He

individuals walk the

adds: It is really wise to

reserve in groups of ve

work with them; they know

to eight people, looking

the geography very well.

Motorbikes
for rhinos

RASHID KANYAO

AWF has approved

a grant for the
Great Fish River
Nature Reserve
to purchase four
new motorbikes to
assist with its rhino
protection efforts.
The bikes replace
older models.

MORE ROOM FOR ELEPHANTS

In Kilimanjaro, AWF signed another round of land lease agreements with 703 area landowners in July and
August. These secured more than 7,000 acres of protected land for elephants in the region. AWF has now
protected more than 25,000 acres of land in the Kilimanjaro landscape for wildlife.

2 African Wildlife Foundation Special Section Winter 2014

WorldMags.net

& THE WINNER IS...

AWF recently closed its second Annual Safari Sweepstakes contest, and were happy to announce that Kathryn S. Reynolds, a Hawaii resident, is
currently traveling to Tanzania as part of the AWF Serengeti Safari! Stay tuned to awf.org and upcoming issues to get the lowdown on her experience!

BILLY DODSON

WorldMags.net

CONSERVATION
CELEBRATIONS

DAVID THOMSON

As part of the 50th anniversary of

Kidepo Valley National Park, one
of the protected areas targeted
under the USAID/Uganda Tourism
for Biodiversity Program, AWF and
Uganda Wildlife Authority (UWA)
honored 10 Ugandan women who
have shown exemplary leadership
in conservation, including Dr.
Margaret Druciri (pictured), a
wildlife veterinarian with UWA
who rescues injured or orphaned
wildlife. This new Uganda Women
in Conservation recognition aims
to encourage female youth to take
up careers in conservation.

UGANDA WILDLIFE AUTHORITY

Chocolatey goodness
Indulge the chocolate lover in you

Apes Initiative to save Africas great ape

while also supporting AWF: through its

populations. They have also supported

GiveBack partnership program, premium

some of our rhino and elephant anti-

organic chocolate-maker Endangered

poaching efforts. Last year, ESC donated

Species Chocolate (ESC) has given ve

well over US$100,000 to AWF from its

percent of its net prots to AWF since

chocolate sales.

2009. Donations from ESC have been

To buy your ESC chocolate, visit awf.org/

instrumental in underwriting our African

chocolate

For the latest news and updates on AWF activities, follow

us on Facebook, Google+, Twitter or YouTube. Log on to
awf.org and follow the links for social media.

WorldMags.net
Winter 2014 African Wildlife Foundation Special Section 3

WorldMags.net

AWF roundup: Illegal wildlife trafcking

AWF CEO APPOINTED TO

PRESIDENTIAL ADVISORY COUNCIL

TAMI A. HEILEMANN/DEPARTMENT OF THE INTERIOR

This past October, AWF CEO Patrick Bergin (below,

center) and seven other individuals were appointed to
the U.S. Advisory Council on Wildlife Trafcking, which
will assist a Presidential Task Force in developing a
national strategy for combating wildlife trafcking. The
appointments were announced during a White House
event attended by former Secretary of State Hillary Clinton
and Clinton Foundation Vice Chair Chelsea Clinton (left).
Bergins appointment is a testament to AWFs record
in African conservation. More importantly, it allows us to
help guide U.S. policy decisions on Africas illegal wildlife
trafcking crisis.

JAMIE COTTEN

CRUSH ALL IVORY

In mid-November, the U.S.

savannas and in national

government crushed its six

parks, and their stolen ivory

tons of conscated ivory

ows out of Africas airports

to highlight the plight of

and seaports to illegal ivory

Africas elephants. AWF

markets around the world.

took the opportunity to

The only way to staunch the

urge other countries around

movement of illegal ivory

the world to follow suit and

is to wipe out the demand,

destroy their own ivory

and that begins with

stockpiles. Furthermore,

destroying stockpiles and

with more than 35,000

stopping trade.

African elephants killed

Though a 1989 ban

for their tusks every year,

on international trade in

AWF proposed all countries

ivory remains in place,

implement immediate

many countriesincluding

domestic moratoria on

China and the United

trade in ivory until all

Statesallow raw and

KENYAS FIRST LADY VISITS

KILIMANJARO LANDSCAPE

elephant populations are

worked ivory to be traded

no longer threatened.

domestically.

While promoting her Hands off our Elephants campaign, Kenyas rst lady, Margaret
Kenyatta, traveled to Amboseli National Park and AWFs Kilimanjaro landscape,
where she met with representatives from several conservation groups, including
Fiesta Warinwa, AWFs country director for Kenya. I explained to the rst lady
about our efforts to secure corridors and wildlife dispersal areas, which are critical
in maintaining connectivity of elephant habitat, said Warinwa. We also discussed
poaching and land conversion as two of the main threats to elephants in this area.
The rst lady promised to help in whatever way she could.

the changing situation on

This new position by

AWF comes in response to
the ground. Right now,
Africa is hemorrhaging
elephants, says
Bergin. Elephant
carcassesthe ones
that are documented

SIX
TONS OF
CONFISCATED
IVORY
CRUSHED

lie strewn in forests, on

FORMER U.S. DEFENSE ATTACH CAUGHT TRAFFICKING IVORY

On the same day that U.S. President Barack Obama was in Tanzania pledging nancial and
other support from the United States to combat wildlife trafcking in Africa, former U.S.
defense attach David McNevin was caught at Kenyas Jomo Kenyatta International Airport
transporting 21 pieces of carved elephant ivory and promptly arrested. McNevin pleaded
guilty and paid a ne of Ksh 30,000 (about US$350).

4 African Wildlife Foundation Special Section Winter 2014

WorldMags.net

WorldMags.net

Commitments
against poaching
In October, AWF CEO

be aimed at stopping the

Patrick Bergin joined other

killing of elephants, the

conservation groups,

trafcking of ivory, and the

former Secretary of State

demand for ivory products.

Hillary Clinton, Clinton

This is more than a

Foundation Vice Chair

conservation issue. Its a

Chelsea Clinton, and

security issue. Its a poverty

several African heads of

issue. Its a consumer

state at the Clinton Global

issue. For this reason,

Initiative Annual Meeting to

many playersfrom

announce a Commitment

governments to the private

to Action to protect Africas

sectormust be involved,

elephants. The individual

too, said Bergin.

and combined efforts will

ASHER JAY

HALTING DEMAND
FOR RHINO HORN
Rhinos remain under assault, with South
Africas Kruger National Park having
lost nearly 1500 rhinos to poaching in
the past five years. While supporting
boots on the ground continues to be
important in the fight to protect rhinos,
ultimately demand in Asia for rhino horn
must decline to stop the killing.
As part of their demand awareness
campaign in Asia, AWF and partner
WildAid
worked
with artist
Asher Jay
to produce
magazine
ads that
likened
the African
rhino and
elephant
to Chinas
beloved
panda.

In October, more than

100 elephants in
Zimbabwes Hwange
National Park were killed
and their tusks stolen
when their watering
holes and salt licks were
poisoned with industrial
cyanide, often used in
gold mining. (Some
reports are putting the
elephant death toll at
closer to 300.)
Though elephants
may have been the
target, poison is
indiscriminate in who
or what it kills. Lions,
hyenas, vultures, kudus,
and other wildlife, in
addition to elephants,
have fallen victim, says

Philip Muruthi, senior

director of conservation
science at AWF.
Several arrests
have been made in
connection with the
poisoning. Some of
the poachers who were
caught even received
15-year jail sentences.
Wildlife crime is not
often seen as very
serious and deserving
of severe punishment,
but these jail sentences
are very high, which
suggests the authorities
in Zimbabwe are taking
this tragedy very
seriously, says Jimmiel
Mandima, AWFs U.S.
government liaison and

a Zimbabwe national.
Hwange is a huge area
to monitor and protect.
With limited staff and
resources, I suspect
park authorities were
themselves taken by
surprise.
Reports suggest
many of the poachers
came from local villages
near the park. This is
one of the reasons why
AWF works so closely
with local communities:
those with access to
economic opportunities
and other social benets
are less inclined to turn
to poaching and more
likely to help catch
poachers and trafckers.
When local people
benet from living near
wildlife, they will take
ownership of and defend
their natural resources,
said Muruthi.

Justice served?

populations across Africa, said Jef Dupain,

In the Republic of Guinea, wildlife trafcker

notes that the majority of the pet trade

Ousame Diallo was sentenced to a year in

demand comes from Asia.

prisonthe most severe penalty allowed

director of AWFs Great Apes Program, who

AWFs African Apes Initiative is

under Guinean law for wildlife crime

assisting wildlife authorities in Central and

offendersfollowing his arrest by local

West Africa to increase monitoring and

authorities, whose actions were supported

protection of these at-risk primates.

by INTERPOL and a
local anti-wildlife
trafcking group.
Diallo admitted
to trafcking 500
endangered western
chimpanzees,
a subspecies of
chimpanzee found
in Guinea.
The pet trade
is often overlooked
when we talk about the
global illegal wildlife
trade, but it is currently
devastating ape

WorldMags.net
Winter 2014 African Wildlife Foundation Special Section 5

MARTIN HARVEY

CIARAN WHEELER

ELEPHANTS
POISONED
IN ZIMBABWE

WorldMags.net

Conservation management training

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MEET THE NEW

class

New Conservation Management Trainees are eager to learn the ins and outs of conservation from AWF experts
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6 African Wildlife Foundation Special Section Winter 2014

+
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Above: AWFs second class

of Conservation Management
TraineesEdwin Tambara (second
from left), Sarah Chiles, and Yohannes
Seifu, pictured with Samburu
Landscape coordinator Benson
Lengalen (far left)spent their rst
three months getting an intensive
course in AWFs conservation
philosophies and landscapes
PHOTO: EDWIN TAMBARA

Difcult dilemma
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CMTP CLASS OF 2015

WorldMags.net

EDWIN TAMBARA

WorldMags.net
CATCHING UP WITH THE

rst class
After a full year of training and eld experience, the
rst round of AWF Conservation Management Trainees
has already amassed a wealth of experience.

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%/62




Marie Frei
To learn more, visit

awf.org/cmtp

Trainee George Okwaro most recently supported the Mau reforestation project
in Kenyas Rift Valley under the direction of AWFs technical directors of climate
change and science. I now perceive conservation with a holistic, viable, systems
approach and better understand the complexity and the dynamics within and
among the different groups of biomes in the landscape, he says.
In August, Okwaro transitioned from CMTP trainee to full-time AWF employee.
In his new capacity as
program ofcer, Mau Forest,
he is responsible for the
implementation of the forest
conservation program in this
ecosystem and continues to
engage in other forestry and
climate change work within the
organization.
His promotion provides a
perfect example of how AWF
envisions CMTP working, where
AWF develops high-potential
future conservation leaders
and looks for opportunities
for them to contribute to
both our organization and to
conservation over the long term.

THEO WAY NANA

During his rst nine months of
eldwork, Theo Way Nana, an
environmental lawyer from the
Democratic Republic of Congo and
former Congo landscape community
ofcer for AWF, was based in the
Samburu landscape.
Here, he developed land-use
plans for Kirimon Group Ranch,
which allowed him to use his
environmental law expertise
to support implementation of
participatory forest management
plans. He facilitated several meetings
with community representatives to
explain the importance of landuse planning, obtain their views
about the process, and develop an
overarching action plan.

From Nanas current base in

Lake Mburo, Uganda, he will spend
a second nine-month placement
supporting the implementation
of the USAID/Uganda Tourism for
Biodiversity program.
In Samburu, I was working
mainly in existing conservancies.
In Uganda, I am working for
the establishment of new
conservancies, Nana reports.
Both experiences are
demonstrating to me how
committed AWF really is to
building the capacity of Africans
in conservation by empowering
community and local organizations
to take over the responsibility and
leadership of conservation in their
land areas, says Nana.

WorldMags.net
Winter 2014 African Wildlife Foundation Special Section 7

PETER CHIRA

GEORGE OKWARO

WorldMags.net
PHILIP MURUTHI

Conservation enterprise

Satao Elerai Camp, set in the foothills of Kilimanjaro, is

a agship AWF-facilitated enterprise that has conserved
some 5,000 acres of land for wildlife while providing
substantial income for the local community

GETTING DOWN TO BUSINESS &

saving wildlife
AWFs investment in conservation-based tourism enterprises
pays dividends for Africas wildlife and people.
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8 African Wildlife Foundation Special Section Winter 2014

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WorldMags.net
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ALISON LANGEVAD

AWF has found that the establishment of

conservation lodges has helped protect key
wildlife species. In Uganda, for example,
the Bwindi mountain gorilla population has
increased since Clouds Mountain Gorilla
Lodge opened for business in 2008

According to a World Bank report, tourism

is one of the largest and fastest-growing
sectors of the world economy
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PERRIN BANKS

Machenje Fishing Lodge opened in August to take

advantage of tourism opportunities from sport shing
and provide much-needed income to the people of
the Sekute Chiefdom. Locals understand the
lodge was established by AWF in return
for elephant conservation efforts.

Gathering steam
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WorldMags.net
Winter 2014 African Wildlife Foundation Special Section 9

WorldMags.net

Conservation enterprise

MARTIN HARVEY

When communities benet

from wildlife tourism, they
will engage in conservation
to protect wildlife

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10 African Wildlife Foundation Special Section Winter 2014

Manyara Ranch Tented Camp

WorldMags.net

MANYARA RANCH CONSERVANCY

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PERRIN BANKS

From Day One, Elerai Group Ranch has received

incomeapproximately US$300,000 to date

WorldMags.net
PHIL PERRY WILDLIFE PHOTOGRAPHY

CONSERVATION ENTERPRISE
+ COMMUNITIES = WILDLIFE
AWFs conservation tourism enterprises have not only beneted people,
but also an array of wildlife across Africa.

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Kathleen Garrigan

MOUNTAIN GORILLA

Clouds Mountain
Gorilla Lodge opened
outside of Ugandas Bwindi
Impenetrable National Park
in 2008, providing income to
the Nkuringo community. The
2011 census of mountain
gorillas in Bwindi found at
least 400 individuals, up
from 302 in 2005. Current
numbers of the mountain
gorilla population in the
nearby Virunga Massif add
another 480, putting the
total world population of
mountain gorillas at 880
and growing!

GREATER KUDU

An AWF survey using

geographic information
systems (or GIS) found that
between 2002 and 2011,
community settlements
and infrastructure had
increased in many parts of
northern Kenyas Samburu
landscapebut not in the

conservation area agreed

upon between AWF and the
local Maasai community,
ensuring protection for
wildlife such as the greater
kudu (below). The Sanctuary
at Ol Lentille, another AWF
conservation enterprise
project, opened in 2007.

ELEPHANT

Though elephant
numbers in some parts of
Africa are declining as a
result of rampant elephant
poaching, one region where
a signicant elephant
population still exists is
in northern Botswana.
Here, to provide sanctuary
for elephants outside of
Chobe National Park, AWF
worked with the 7,000
members of the Chobe
enclave to establish Ngoma
Safari Lodge. The Chobe
community, in turn, set aside
a portion of their land for
conservation.

WILD DOG

Once an overgrazed
government-owned ranch,
Manyara Ranch Conservancy
has rebounded as an
important wildlife corridor
between Lake Manyara and
Tarangire National Parks.
Since Manyara Ranch Tented
Camp opened its tent aps
on conservancy grounds,
elephants, lions, giraffe, and
other wildlife have returned.
The most recent arrivals:
endangered wild dogs
(above), spotted
after many years
of disappearance
from the
conservancy!

Fancy visiting one of these conservation lodges?

www.awf.org/safari

WorldMags.net
Winter 2014 African Wildlife Foundation Special Section 11

Q&A

WorldMags.net

A SITDOWN WITH THE

We ask AWF CEO Patrick Bergin for his take on the state of
conservation in Africa and AWFs role going forward.

AWF CEO Patrick Bergin believes that, given

Africas considerable size, it should be possible
for the continent to modernize but still maintain
pristine areas for nature and wildlife.

12 African Wildlife Foundation Special Section Winter 2014

WorldMags.net

How would you characterize

how AWF is doing?
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Africa is modernizing rapidly.

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Get more opinion on conservation issues on our blogs page:

awf.org/blog

WorldMags.net
Winter 2014 African Wildlife Foundation Special Section 13

MAIN PHOTO: MARTIN HARVEY

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INSET: JULIE LARSEN MAHER WILDLIFE CONSERVATION SOCIETY

WorldMags.net

New frontiers

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ADVISING

south
sudan
Former Maasai Steppe Director James Kahurananga, now an
AWF technical advisor for South Sudans Ministry of Wildlife
Conservation and Tourism, offers an insiders perspective
on the countrys conservation potential.

new country faces any number

of challenges, and for the
Republic of South Sudan, that
includes determining how best
to manage its abundance of natural resources.
At the request of the government, AWF
is assisting South Sudan in establishing
appropriate policies that will help protect
its natural resources. Since March, former
Maasai Steppe Director James Kahurananga
has been working in Juba as the AWF
technical advisor for the Ministry of Wildlife
Conservation and Tourism.
We asked Kahurananga about the
countrys conservation potential.

What is the state of South

Sudans wildlife and ecosystems?
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What does your role as technical
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14 African Wildlife Foundation Special Section Winter 2014

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WorldMags.net

WorldMags.net

AWF is helping the South Sudanese

government to establish conservation
policies that will protect the
countrys astounding diversity

THE
COUNTRY IS
VERY YOUNG
AND POLICIES
AND LAWS ARE
CRUCIAL AT THIS
EARLY STAGE
JAMES KAHURANANGA
AWF TECHNICAL ADVISOR
TO SOUTH SUDAN

PHOTO:PER KARLSSON

What are the greatest overall

challenges that the South
Sudanese government faces? Where
does conservation t into broader
governmental concerns?
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take to establish a more
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among the citizenry?
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FIACHRA KEARNEY

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AWFs James Kahurananga, who is acting as a technical advisor to South Sudans government in Juba, notes AWFs experience
in land conservation, enterprise development, and conservation education and training will prove invaluable as South Sudan
establishes its conservation policies.

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WorldMags.net
Winter 2014 African Wildlife Foundation Special Section 15

WorldMags.net

Whats new online

PHILIP MURUTHI

GET UP CLOSE &

PERSONAL WITH

COGTC
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Camera traps offer a variety

of advantages for wildlife
research and monitoring,
especially when dealing with
elusive species such as the
leopard (Top).
They have also been found to
capture rare species, such as the
forest elephant (Bottom)and
even poachers (Middle).

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View the videos

Wide-ranging use
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16 African Wildlife Foundation Special Section Winter 2014

TIONARY
ITUTE FOR A-EVOLU M
MAX PLANCK INST
AFRICAN PROGRA
ANTHROPOLOGY PAN

Camera traps offer an unobtrusive way to monitor

wildlifeand now, another way for AWF supporters to get
close to some of Africas most elusive creatures.

The cameras
proved very
helpful in
collecting
evidence of
a number of
species that
are normally
difcult to nd
JEFF DUPAIN, DIRECTOR
AWF GREAT APES PROGRAM

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Gayane Margaryan
Your support really makes a difference. Thank you.

awf.org/donate

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WorldMags.net

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