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PROJECTS AND DEVELOPING

Lace and the wear made by lace


[Type the document subtitle]
Maria Madalina Iancu

2013

PRIVATE COMPANY

CONTENT

1. History What about lace? 2. Lace fabrics and combinations 3. Designers and perspectives 4. Lace collection presentation Inspiration & theme Describing the models of the collection Tehnical map collection Patterns in Gemini? 5. Conclusions

History
- What about lace?-

"I consider lace to be one of the prettiest imitations ever made of the fantasy of nature; lace always evokes for me those incomparable designs which the branches and leaves of trees embroider across the sky, and I do not think that any invention of the human spirit could have a more graceful or precise origin." Coco Chanel

History of Lace
The History of Lace
When did lace originate? Although no definite date can be given for the invention of lace, it is most likely that what we now regard as lace arose in the early sixteenth century. Open woven fabrics and fine nets that had a lace-like effect are known to have existed for centuries, but their techniques did not contribute to those developed for the great European laces. The late 16th century marked the rapid development of lace, an openwork fabric where combinations of open spaces and dense textures form designs. Needle lace is made with a needle and a single thread, whereas bobbin lace is made from multiple threads. These forms of lace were dominant in both fashion as well as home dcor during the late 1500s. To adorn collars and cuffs, needle lace was embroidered with loops and picots. To link widths of fabric, open-work seaming techniques were used. Through cutwork, the most decorative of the three lace techniques, elaborate patterns could be constructed. By 1600, high quality lace was made across Europe, beginning in Venice, Italy and spreading throughout Spain, France, and England. Women who were adept in textile crafts picked up the new lace techniques with ease. As lace became more popular among the wealthy, affluent families sought after innovative lace techniques to reflect their status. As fashion trends evolved, the demands for lace grew. Textile workers refined their skills and were able to produce extremely intricate patterns, including Gros Point, the raised needlework, and flowing Milanese bobbin lace. Alencon and Argentan (French needle laces), as well as Binche, Valenciennes, and Mechlin (Flemish bobbin laces), became popular as lace continued to indicate ones social status. As the industrial revolution changed the way the world produced goods, it led to the production of machine lace. In 1768, John Heathcoat invented the bobbin net machine. Making it easier to produce complex lace designs more quickly, the Industrial Revolution was the downfall for the handmade lace industry. The teaching of handmade lacemaking disappeared in schools as emphasis shifted from trades to academics, which paved the way for lacemaking to become a hobby instead of the business it once

was.Lacemakers and other hosiery workers found themselves unemployed since they could not compete with the machines. Many of the unemployed who took their anger out on the factories became known as Luddites. In 1811, the Luddites destroyed factories and machinery, and the British government brought in the army to protect the industry. In 1837, Samuel Ferguson first used jacquard looms with Heathcoats bobbin net machine, resulting in endless possibilities for lace designs. The types of lace are classified by how they are made. Varieties include tape, knotted, crocheted, knitted and chemical lace. How we can define the word lace?

Lace : delicate, intricate, beautiful, and versatile. These are only a few of the adjectives used when describing lace in any of its forms. There are many countries in the world that express their heritage through the creation of lace, and have incorporated lace fabric int o places of importance in their lives. Lace has gone from being used as vestments in religious ceremonies to the incorporation of lace into bridal fabrics for both gowns and veils.

Lace is an openwork fabric, patterned with open holes in the work, made by machine or by hand. The holes can be formed via removal of threads or cloth from a previously woven fabric, but more often open spaces are created as part of the lace fabric. Lace-making is an ancient craft. True lace was not made until the late 15th and early 16th centuries. A true lace is created when a thread is looped, twisted or braided to other threads independently from a backing fabric.

Originally linen, silk, gold, or silver threads were used. Now lace is often made with cotton thread, although linen and silk threads are still available. Manufactured lace may be made of syntethic fiber. A few modern artists make lace with a fine copper or silver wire instead of thread. To make a lace raw material classification we have here eight types, in ten several varieties. Those are made from filler materials like: Hollofil thermal, Quallofil, Thermolite plus light Thermolite active, Thermolite Micro,Thermolite Extreme .

Valuable old lace, framed for sale in Bruges,Belgium

Those types of materials were used for products as follows: fishing outfit, hunting, pillow quilt, or sleeping bags, gloves, ski clothes, hats jackets, raincoat, dust coat etc. Those kind of materials had also many knids of propreties like: softness, human shape suitability, thermal effect, higher warmth retention property, and also excellent softness and compressibility.

Lace Classification
Embroidered a embroidery one kind, also called "embroidery". Is a kind of to cotton, twine, silk or all kinds of fabric as raw materials, after embroider or woven a decorative hollow out products. According to legend the late qing dynasty by the European was introduced into China. As early as in the 4 ~ 5 century of ancient Egyptian tombs in will have similar embroidery lace and carved embroidered edge.
Figure no 1 Traditional Embrodery in chain stich on a Kazach rug, contemporary.

In the middle ages, the lace production has been concentrated in the monastery. The 15th century, Italy, Belgium, France are development lace production. In the 17th century is the European lace production boom period, Venice, Italy lace known to the world. The 19th century British invention lace machine, mechanism lace come out, which can lead to the decline of European hand-making lace. The end of the 19th

century, Europe lace was introduced into China, the Irish missionaries butyl MaMaoLan in shandong yantai open culture really girls' school, impart lace skill. Refers with the spun yarn embroidery, knitting and become articles for daily use. Varieties are "pick applique", "cutwork", "network button" and so on. Color is white, yellowish, cream-colored, light green and light blue, etc. Suitable for tablecloth, bedspread, pillowcases, cushion for leaning on, handkerchief and tea mat, etc. Decorative webbing, there are all kinds of decorative pattern design, as a decorative webbing, used for all kinds of clothing, curtain, tablecloth, bedspread, chimney, bed is tasted, strip or edge. Lace is divided into woven, knitting, embroidery, knitting and so on four categories. Silk yarn woven lace, in our country minority use more, say again so national lace. Dermatoglyphic pattern used more suspicious patterns. Woven lace texture closely design rich modelling, color is rich. Knitting lace organization poor, there are obvious hole, the outward appearance is lightsome, elegant. Embroidery lace colour species not restricted, can produce complex pattern. Woven lace lace mechanism by into, useful also hand-knit. Our lace, lace in China started late, in the 1980 s ago, weaving lace machine mainly from foreign imports, the early 1990 s, Jiangsu Nantong absorbed foreign machine characteristics, combined with domestic actual situation, independent research and development for our country the first lace machine, and through the shenzhen any lace factory, as a pilot unit. From now on over our country lace machines need to import problem. Lace classification wooden club lace, green state lace (divided into full working lace and inserted spell lace two), engraving and flat embroidery, shuttle lace, JiMo edge, hands lace, generation beautiful lace, embroidery lace, knitting lace, woven lace.Full working lace to fine cotton as raw material and using the plain weave, between dilute percale technique knitting form all kinds of fancy, the overall has deep carved art effect. Set spell lace is woven lace as the main body, match with a linen embroidered. Products are disc pad, small insert and tablecloth, bedspread, lace technology umbrella, etc. Lace production the United States is the earliest of lace. Making is a very complicated process, it is not like the traditional hook system or embroidery, and the book according to the design effect with silk thread or yarn braided and become, when making need to give silk in each small shuttle above. Each only spindle only thumb size. A not too complex design need dozens of only or nearly only such a small shuttle, again big some design requires hundreds of small shuttle. When making the pattern on the below, according to the pattern using different knitting, knot, winding and other techniques to make. Jia card lace (Jacquard, Joseph Marie, 1752 ~ 1834), France loom artisans, grain plate Jacquard machine main reformer. In 18th century, French artisans cloth male according to ancient Chinese lace knot this manual jacquard principle create paper hole jacquard machine, use tape chisel hole control thimble inserted, replace the flower of warp organization point. The method's hole, WoKangSong, improvement, can produce 600 needle big pattern fabric. In 1799, jia card integrated

predecessors' innovation achievements, made a complete set of grain board drive mechanism, the configuration is more perfect pedal jacquard machine, only one man operation can weave 600 needle more large pattern. This kind of jacquard machine in 1801 Paris exhibition won the bronze award. Its mechanism characteristic is to use mention lace pattern, namely punch CARDS replace paper tape, through the drive drive a certain sequence thimble hook, according to the pattern organization coordinated action ascension warp weave pattern. 1860 years later to switch to steam power instead of foot drive hence become automatic jacquard machine. Widely spread after all countries in the world, and the use of motor launch. In order to commemorate jia card contribution, this kind of jacquard machine called jacquard warp-knitted jacquard machine. Cotton lace and called: pure cotton lace, woven lace, cotton lace, cotton edge. Cotton lace materials mainly cotton yarn is given priority to, cotton yarn have glazing and glazing two. According to the use cotton yarn of different forming can be divided into bobbin yarn and yarn. "Disk machine" cotton lace main production machine; At present the main specifications have 64 ingot, 96 ingot and 128 pieces of three kinds of models. Disk machine working principle is to go nail type knitting, it with cotton as the main raw material, disk machine in material are also used cotton, linen, wool, silk and other natural yarn and chemical fiber line, chemical fiber yarn, gold silver, rayon, yarn, core spun yarn, gold, silver onion onion, ribbon line.. Cotton lace by the high quality cotton refined but become, the color fastness is high, fine workmanship, feel soft, design novel, the various styles are widely used in bra, underwear, pajamas, fashion, bedding, socks, umbrella, arts and crafts toys.

There are many types of lace, classified by how they are made. These include:

Needle lace - is made using a needle and thread. This is the most flexible of the lace-making arts. The finest antique needle laces were made from a very fine thread that is not manufactured today.

Cutwork( whitework) - lace constructed by removing threads from a woven background, and the remaining threads wrapped or filled with embroidery.

Bobbin lace - also known as Bone-lace; as the name suggests, made with bobbins and a pillow. The bobbins, turned from wood, bone or plastic, hold threads which are woven together and held in place with pins stuck in the pattern on the pillow.

Tape lace; makes the tape in the lace as it is worked, or uses a machine- or hand-made textile strip formed into a design, then joined and embellished with needle or bobbin lace.

Knotted lace; including macram and tatting. Tatted lace is made with a shuttle or a tatting needle.

Crocheted lace; including Irish crochet, pineapple crochet, and filet crochet.

Knitted lace - including Shetland lace, such as the "wedding ring shawl", a lace shawl so fine that it can be pulled through a wedding ring

Machine-made means

any style of lace created or replicated using mechanical

Chemical lace; The stitching area is stitched with embroidery threads that form a continuous motif. Afterwards, the stitching areas are removed and only the

embroidery remains. The stitching ground is made of water-soluble or non heatresistant material.

DESIGNERS, INSPIRATION AND SHORT PERSPECTIVE


Spring/Summer Trends 2013: Elie Saab (my inspiration) Fashion trends S/S 2013: Summer Stripes Minimalism Geometric shapes Why lace and not something else? My opinion about

Inspiration by Designers
( http://www.goodreads.com/quotes/tag/inspiration - Quotes About Inspiration) Spring/Summer Trends 2013 Elie Saab collections

Elie Saabs Spring 2013 haute couture collection may appear identical to past collections with the lace, sparkles, and safe color palette. Recycled or not, the collection was nonetheless astonishing and strikingly romantic.

For this season spring /summer 2013 haute couture , Elie Saab (one of my favorite designers) prepared something special, something that brings feminity in the front, and the dress decorations are verry special and unique. He used a wide range pallete color , wich he played very well on the material, like marble white , popin red, black , lila ,soft orange and yellow , and some floral combination. In the following pictures I have beside description of the dress also dress details.

Picture 1- Marble white long sleeve knee length dress with organza at hem and leather belt.

Picture 2 Lavender blue embroidered grown, silk shantung bodice with heavy embroideries at nekline, waist and hem with leather belt.

Picture 3 Popy crepe caddy dress with embroideries at neckline sleeve and back.

Picture 4 - Print silk shifon dress with embroidered bodice and cape.

Picture 5 - Melon silk shantung with embrodeired lace guipure with leather belt.

Picture 6 Black crepe cady strapless dress with embroidered at bodice at bodice and back.

After Haute Couture collection I will present you some personalities from Red Carpet.

Picture 7

In 1st picture we have a black silk tulle grown partially embroidered with beads and sequins, from the Elie Saab Haute Couture Spring Summer 2013 collection 2nd picture - lace and stretch crepe wide leg jumpsuit with grosgrain detailing from the Elie Saab Spring Summer 2013 Readyto-Wear collection. 3rd picture - A lavender blue cocon shapes embroidered lace guipure knee length, with flower embroidered sleeves and a leather belt from the Haute Couture S/S 2013 collection 4th picture - wearing anivory strapless grown with black embroidery detail and watercolor floral sequin embellishment from E.Saab,Haute Couture S/S 2013 5th picture - wearing a black fully embroidered dress with lace panels on skirt from E.Saab,Haute Couture S/S 2013

Fashion trends for Spring/Summer 2013


SUMMER STRIPES What we know about stripes? What advantage and disadvantage it has and when and where we can wear it? Stripes are not complicated to combine with other kind of clothes. This season is no different. In their 2013 Spring-Summer collections, designers offer us lots of stripes . They may be different, from thin as a spaghetti to very bold. What about the colors?? Well, there is also a huge variety for everyone here. As fashion recreates the old trends, adding a fresh air to the clothing, stripes have gone from black and white to green, red, blue and dark blue.Lets see what theyve got for us. Stripes dont necessarily have to be horizontal, they can also be zig-zag, vertical or diagonal. It is very important for each girl to understand which one of them will flatter her silhouette the best. For example, if you are not very tall, the vertical stripes will make you look taller and thiner. If you have narrow hips or shoulders, horizontal stripes can add additional volume in the places you need, etc. Designers and stylists suggest that we can mix narrow stripes with the wide ones, horizontal with vertical and look very stylish, with no rules applied. Anyway you shall not overplay with it. Firstly, i want to talk about daily summer dresses

This summer a mini chiffon dress (easily see trough) in blue zebra would be the best choice! You can team it up with high heels in suede or flat sandals. Style up with a viscose hat or a silk scarf. And no bracelets allowed. Just earrings!
Dolce&Gabanna spring-summer 2013 RTW

As for the pants this season Balmain, Acne and Celine encourage girls to wear them confidently. Olivier Rousteing offers to wear loose chiffon trousers with a high waist and wide vertical stripes, in order to make you legs look limitless. He combines them with wide shouldered jackets, which is like the 80s.

Tommy Hilfiger spring-summer 2013 RTW

Acne Spring-Summer 2013 RTW

Balmain Spring-Summer 2013 RTW

Acne also keeps the shoulders, but instead comes up with tight pants in thin stripes and easily flared to the bottom. I think this is an option for girls below 25.
Celine Spring-summer 2013 RTW

The only thing i can say about skirts is

wear Chiffon flip flop this summer! It looks girly, but not provocative. Playful but not vulgar.

Balenciaga Spring -Summer 2013

Michael Kors thinks in a retro casual

way. For this season he offers silk skirts below the knee. On the catwalk you can notice that theyre worn with short tops of he same color tone, which in sometimes shows off the belly.

Michael Kors Spring-Summer 2013 RTW

Striped top is THE PIECE of the season. It can be a marino style oversized blazer or an asymmetric sequined one (like the ones from Etro). The greatest thing about this piece is that you can match it with blue denim, which makes it a very nice casual piece. If you want a more glamourous look, choose a pair of loose pants from a different fabric and low waist. Another one of the best choices you can make for this summer is a shirt made of chiffon with pale orange, red or, of course, black stripes on it. The best would be if you can find vertical, but horizontal ones are fine as well.

Tommy Hilfiger Spring-Summer 2013 RTW

Jenni Kayne Spring-Summer 2013

Etro Spring-Summer 2013 RTW

Helmut Lang Spring-Summer 2013

Tommy Hilfiger Spring-Summer 2013

Tommy Hilfiger Spring-Summer 2013 RTW

Evenig outfits. No jersey or cotton, just silk and sequin. It may be an empire short dress which will make you look innocent and fresh, or it may be a long

dress poured silhouette dress .It s a very sophisticated choise, but I suggest to wear it with flats, to look efortesly chic.

Christian Dior Spring-Summer 2013 RTW

Marc Jacobs Spring-Summer2013 RTW

MINIMALISM
Minimalism is not defined by what is not there but by the rightness of what is and the richness with which this is experienced. (John Pawson)
The secret of happiness, you see, is not found in seeking more but in developing the capacity to enjoy less. Socrates

Minimalism has traditionally been associated with art and design but can be applied to anything which has been stripped to its essentials. Minimalism is any design or style in which the simplest and fewest elements are used to create the maximum effect.

I can describe minimalism in three simple words: simplicity , a defined personal style and originality .

GRAPHIC/ GEOMETRIC SHAPES

These styles inspired by geometry, are usually worn as prints or in the shape of the garment itself. Since geometric shapes look very good together, it is possible to wear this look, either as a blend of several shapes or as a single piece. So, bid goodbye to florals as fashionistas are opting for geometrics all the way this year. The look extends to accessories too. So there can be angles on bags, shoes, jewellery, all in different shapes to go with the geometric prints on your clothes. But it is important to remember not to wear all kinds of shapes when there are busy prints on your clothes if you want your accessories to stand out.

Shapes like polyhedrons, triangles and squares are the hottest in skirts or dresses now. The geometric shape is the foundation or the basic shape from which the rest of the garment is crafted and draped. Sometimes designers even use two different fabrics in the shapes to give an unusual touch to the ensemble.

Why lace and not something else?


(www.westfield.com)

Lace is versatile and can be worn many ways. You will see it on shoes, shorts, tops and tote bags, but the best way to make a statement is to wear a lace dress. Be it evening, formal, sundress or cocktail, a lace dress works in a wide range of colours.

Lace is one of the most elegant fabrics along side silk. It is feminine and can be dressed up or down while maintaining an allure of classic style.I cant say that lace is the perfect wear and you can wear it somehow or with everything.I want to see what advantages and disadvantages it has, because it is a old fahion material , loved by the majority of womens in the fashion world.I t is true that you can not wear it in all seasons, but you can combine it with other materials,or wear accessories. Why lace and not something else? I can not answer you exactly at this question, but from my personal opinion I am choosing lace because, it gives you when you are wearing it a lot of its qualities like: feminity , elegance, self confidence and sensuality .

Lace collection presentation Inspiration Theme Describing 5th of the models of the collection Tehnical map Gemini Patterns????

Conclusions As my opinion, I would say that there in the world are a lot of designers, good designers, but I choose Elie Saab because I like his collections, and I saw that he was few years oriented on evening dresses, and lace dresses and I like all his collections..For me he is my inspiration, because also I am oriented on women s wear, especially on evening dresses and I could say and thats the reason that I show his previous collections , and this year collection . For me his collections have lots of imagination, he is realistic, knows what womens want to wear, he is noticed by his collections through the words elegance, discretion, mistery and feminity.I think that are a lot of words that I can describe his collection , but those words are the important ones.

Bibliography
Burkhard, Claire; Nw Modelbuch facsimile published as part of Fascinating Bobbin Lace Dye, Gilian; Silver Threads & Going for Gold - The Lace Guild, 2001 Levey, Santina; Lace,a history -Maney, 1990 Nottingham, Pamela; The Technique of Bobbin Lace - Batsford, 1976 Shepherd, Rosemary; An Early Lace Workbook -Lace Daisy Press, 2009 http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/9/99/Kazakh_rug_chai n_stitch_embroidery.jpg/350px-Kazakh_rug_chain_stitch_embroidery.jpg http://thegoldendiamonds.com/summer-stripes/ http://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/features/less-is-more-the-newminimalism-2236966.html