I2 BUILDING BLOCKS

StocKs anc sauces

FOR FON SUTER DEPTH OF FLAVOUR,THERE IS SIMPLY NO REAL SUBSTITUTE FRESH, HOMEMADE STOCK

t^ll

WHEN IT COMES TO MAKING SAUCES.TUC

RICTI

FLAVoURoFsTocKDEPENDsoNFRESHINGRED|ENTS,THESPEc|F|cPREPA-

RAT|oNoFAFoUNDATIoNFoRFLAVoUR_THERoASTINGoFBoNESAND
THESWEAT|NGoFVEGETABLES,FoLLowEDBYTHELoNG,SLowS|MMER|NG ToDRAWoUTTHENATURALBoUQUEToFTHE|NGRED|ENTS;AND'F|NALLY'

THE BOILING DOWN TO REDUCE AND CONCENTRATE FLAVOUR' RTOUCTIOUS ARE VERY IMPORTANT IN STOCKS AND SAUCES. IN NII MY A HALF OR RECIPES, YOU WILL FIND DIRECTIONS TO REDUCE DOWN BY
TWO-THIRDS

EVEN WITH

STOCK THAT HAS ALREADY BEEN REDUCED'

THIS

IS

WHAT GIVES A SAUCE ITS DEPTH, ITS INTENSITY OF FLAVOUR AND'

ASNooTHER,MAG|C'INGRED|ENTSARENEEDED,TH|SKEEPS|TL|GHT|N
TEXTURE TOO, NEITHER CLOYING NOR THICK NOR FORMING

SKIN.

Tgr SrILI IN
EVEN

MAKING GOOD STOCKS AND SAUCES LIES IN PATIENCE:

AN ABSOLUTE BEGINNER CAN MAKE STOCK. IT YOU

CIN

CHOP VEG-

ETABLESANDREGULATEAcooKERTABYoUcANMAKEAGooDSToCKBASE OR SAUCE. AIT YV STOCKS ARE MADE IN THE SAI'4E WAY. TFTY XNY
TAKE TIME, BUT THEy ARE UNDEMANDING AND,

AT HOwr, It's WELL WORTH

MAKING UP A FULL BATCH AND FREEZING IN SOOVi/ ISTI OZI2 CUP AND

l00vL/3Zrr- ozlt/z cup

OWN

BLocKS.

THnr wnv' You'LL ALWAYS

HAVE YouR

.STOCK.CUBES' TO HAND, READY TO PRODUCE SUBLIME SAUCES.

I A large pan, preferably

is essential.

a stockpot, of at least 1.2 litre/2o pint capacity

lf you don't have a stockpot then a preserving pan will do. 2 For brown stocks, it is necessary to roast the bones oI carcasses initial1y in a very hot oven, turning occasionally. This gives flavour and colour
to the srock.Any fat should be drained oiTbefore adding the bones to the stockpor. Light stocks and fish srocks don't require this initial browning.

As the stock comes to the boi1, a scum

will form.This

is a natural accu-

mulation of proteins and vegetable starches that wili cloud the stock unless
removed. Frequent skimming

with

a iarge, unslotted spoon is essential.

4 Do

not season stocks r,rith salt.There is enough natural salt in the veg-

etables, and as the

liquor becomes reduced down, these will concentrate. right

at the end of the sauce-making process.

Seasoning is generally added

Finally, when the stock is ready, strain through a colander lined

with

wet muslin cloth. Alternatively, an old, clean tea towel will sufEce.When the stock cools, chill it and scrape off any fat that forms on the top'

BUILDiNG tsLOCKS

I3

Vegetable nage
: ]:- CIOUSLY LIGHT, NEUTRAL BASE FOR MANY OF MY SAUCES AND SOUPS -r- s eulcKAND EASYTo MAKE,AND IDEAL FoR GENERAL usr' lru somr : .,. SAUCES, I usr Vrcernelr NRcr tN coMBlNATloN wlrH orHER .::<S To L|GHTEN rHev, FoR MAX|MUM FLAVoUR, ooN't STRA|N oUT .-: .:GETABLES AFTER COOKING. LEIVC TUEY TO STEEP IN THE STOCK' .-:" fRAIN SOME 24 HOURS LATER. I .-e the PrePared
-.: ,:.le-' along rvith
.::r,rn rvedges, PeP-

INGREDIENTS (makes 1.5 litres/

7% pintslSt/z cuPs)

onions, coarsely choPPed

1 leek, coarsely choPPed

2 celery

sticks, codrsely choPPed

5 carrots, coarselY choPPed

'1

whole head garlic, sPlit in hdLf

1 lemon, cut into 6 wedges

% teaspoon white PePPercorns

% teaspoort pink pePPetcorns

% bay leaJ

':.:r'. bay leaf and

.::1.c

in a stockpot

4 star anise

.::a

\:lUCepan.

2 litres/3% pints/9

cups cold water

? :-.:i the rvater and :- :o the boil, then .: the heat to

:

1 sprig each of tarrdgott, basil, coriander, thyme, pdrsley and cheruil

200m1/7fl oz/',4 cuP drY white uine

::r:.rir) :r simmer for about 10 minutes'

J-4 l{crlove the stock from the heat' Add

the

..: ir.'rbs and rvhite wine' Push the herbs dorvn

: :hc liquid so that everything is submerged, ::: 'ct the stock aside to cool and allow the
:.-. to infuse the stock with their flavourings'

5 :i hcn

t1-re

stock

is cooi, pour it into and transfer it to

jars the

refrigerator. Continue the

steeping Process for about

24 hours.

6 Strain the stock by pouring it

through

STORAGE
VrcEtneLE Nnce

a muslin-lined colander set over a large bowl' Discard the vegetables, herbs and spices' The stock is now ready to use. Alternatively, chill
or freeze it untii required.

wtrl

KEEP FoR uP

To 3

DAYs lN A SEALED rN

coNTAtNER lN THE REFRIGERAToR

FREEZER.

oR 2-3 voNrls
FREEZE

rrte

IT

IS

N COOO
cups

IDEA

TO

IT IN
FL

BLOCKS OF

500vr-/

lSrr ozl2

nxo or l00vl/3tA

ozlt/z cuP'

:r'r: i. l;i il i .:1" f ,, ''. - '.., i,.'

If

you can choq uegetdbles and

sauce' reguldte a cook.er taP, You can make d good stock-base or

I4 I]UILDING BLOCKS

Fish stocl<
TFir sssr FtsH
OR SOLE
HAKE

BoNES

To usE FoR srocK, tF posstBLE,

BE

ARE TURBoT

INGREDIENTS (makes about 2 litresl3'A pints/9 cups)

1 small leek,J'inely chopped 1 small onion,-finely chopped
'1

OTHERS

CAN

TOO OILY OR STRONG IN FLAVOUR

tNSTEAD.

BUT

Cur our rHE EyEs AND GtLLs, AND MAKE suRE ANy TRACES oF BLooD ARE wASHED out. lr youR
FISHMONGER OOESITI'T HAVE SUFFICIENT BONES, YOU
PIECES

oR HADDoCK wtLL Do

CAN

USE TAIL

celery stick,-finely chopped

OF FISH INSTEAD.

% bulh .fennel,

Jinell' chopped

cloues

garlic, unpeeled

I In a covered
coloured.

stockpot or large saucepan, srveat the vegetables in the oil

100m1 / 3%

Jl

oz

/'l

cup oliue oil

over a nedium heat for abor-rt 7 mtrutes until they are softened but not

1.5kg/ 3lb 4oz .fish bones, rouohll, chopped 300m1/% pint/ 1% cups dry uthite tuine

2 3 4

Add the fish bones and u'ine, and cook until the wine has evaporated.
Pour in the water, which should just cover the bones. l3ring to the boii

2 litres/32 pints/9 atps cold watet

sltrigs each

o;f

parsley and tlryrne

and, using a ladle, skim off rhe scurn that rises to the top.

'/
lernon sliccs
the

lemon, sliced

When all the scum has been remo'ed, add the

fresl-r herbs,

% teaspoon tuhite peppercorns

and peppercorns, and simr'er

for about 20 minutes. Remove fror,

'1

heat and allorv to rest undistr-rrbed for about [J minutes so that the liquid can clear and settle.

STORAGE

Tlts sroc<

wtLL

KEEp

FoR up

ro 7
lt

onys rN

SEALED

Strain the stock b1' pouring the contetrts of the pan through a rnushn-

CONTAINER IN THE REFRIGERATOR, PROVIDED

FoR A FEW MTNUTES eve ny

IT IS BOILED

lined colander set over a large bou'1 or food container. cool the strained
stock, then chill or fieeze until required.

3-4 oeys.
DESIRED

tyay nLso BE FRozEN

tN

USABLE

At4ouNTs AS

FoR up

ro 2 voNrls.

Fish velout6
THe rtcHr BoDy oF THts FULL-FLAVouRED sAUCE coMEs FRoM THE wE,._
REDUCED
TII"1E
I

NGREDIENTS (makes about

srocK AND THE cREAty. Tur snuce cAN

BE MADE AHEAD oF
DAYS.

4|Omll% pint/2 cups)

1 shallots, Jinely sliced 159/%oz hutter

AND STORED IN THE REFRIGERATOR FOR A COUPLE OF

a -'vide, shallorv saucepan, gentlv sar,rt6 the shallots

I In 2

in the butter for

250ntl/9ll oz/1 up dry tuhite wine

250nrl/9.fl oz/1 cup Noilly Prat ot dry uermoutlt
500m1/18,11

about 12 minutes until very soft, yet still uncoloured.

Deglaze the pan rvith the wine and the Noilly prar or vernouth, then the

oz/2

cttps

Fish

Stock (aboue)

boil the liquid for about I0 minutes, or unril it has reduced to

consistencv of a thin syrup.

250n1/9J1
250m1

oz/1utp

double cream

/9fl oz/1

cup single crearn

3 4 5

Stir in the Fish Stock. Bring the hquid back to the boil then continue

to boil it down until it reduces by about hall Stir

ir-r

both creans. Return the par to the boil and si'rmer the
accir,rires a

sauce

for about 15 minutes or r-rntil rt

coating consistencl..

For an extra smooth, velvetv tertlue, pour the sauce through a fine sieve.

BUILDING BLOCKS

I5

Langoustine stock
- - > STOCK

OF ONE OF MY FAVOURITE RECIPES' '-. CnppuccrNo oF Ronsrro LRNcousrtrue nNo Lerurtls (encr 35). ' : A VERY VERSATILE STOCK WHICH CAN BE REDUCED TO MAKE A .;, >rlNG SAUCE lN ITS OWN RIGHT WHICH lS IDEAL FOR SERVING WITH
FORMS THE BASE

INGREDIENTS (makes about l% pintsl4t/z cups)

100m1/
3%

I litre/

J1 oz /',1 cup oliue oil

21

heads,

or heads and shells, of langoustines,

5 00g

I. 3.I

AND WHICH CAN ALSO BE REDUCED FURTHER AND USED AS A BASE

weighing about

/ 1lb

' :;

i vtNAtcRETTE. As sucH, tr wtLL MAKE A MEMoRABLE DRESSING ,r; r\y sALAD wHrcH tNCLUDES SEAWATER FlsH oR sHELLF|SH.You mnv . ..: THAT YOUR FISHMONGER SELLS LANGOUSTINES UNDER THE NAME OF l -:- N Bnv pRAwNs. lNsrrno oF THRowING AWAY THEIR HEADS r ; -!i PEELING, RESERVE THEM FOR MAKING THIS STOCK. LOBSTER
:;:ASSES, cHoppED tNro 5cm/2tN
] J bUUU ErTELI.
PtECES,

2 small ca{rots, chopped

1 onion, chopped 1 celery stick, chopped

2
'L

cloues

garlic, unpeeled

small bulb fennel, chopped

cAN

BE PUT

To rHE

sAME

2 ;fresh tomatoes, chopped

teaspoons Cognac

200m1/7Jl

oz/Z

cup dry white wine

| :::.rr;r

large roasting pan on top of the cooker and add half of the oil.
heads and shells

00ml / 1 SJl oz / 2 cups Fish Stock (page 14)

j:r hot, saut6 the langoustine

if using, shaking the pan

500m1/18-fl oz/2 cups cold water 1 large sprig each o;f tarragon, basil, thyme
and coridnder
% bay leaf

' :::rning

the heads occasionally until they turn golden brown.

:: .inother large pan, heat the remaining oil and add all of the vegeta.-rut6eing them until they start

to caramelize and acquire a golden

,::. Add the saut6ed langoustine heads.

2 star

anise

l -': jl.rze with

the Cognac, then add the wine and boil until reduced by

% teaspoon white peppercorns

.:: half. Pour in the Fish Stock, water, fresh herbs and spices. Simmer ':.rck for about 20 minutes to reduce

% teaspoon black peppercorns

% teaspoon coriander seeds
sea

it

down by one-third and cook

ral flavours. { .::rin the liquid through a muslin-lined sieve. It is now ready to use . .rock, which can be reduced again slightly for a little more : - :nrration of flavour and to make a delicious sauce. Check the : -,r:rins iust before use.
: :l:c

salt (optional)

STORAGE
THE srocK AND THE sAUcE wtLL KEEP FoR up
THE REFRTcERAToR, oR FoR

to

2 olvs

tN

upto 2 ttoNttls

lN THE FREEzER.

I6 BUILDING BLOCKS

Cou rt- bou illon

A ltcur,
SHELLFTSH.

FRAGRANT

srocK oF vEGETABLES,

HERBS

AND wHtrE wtNE, THts

INGREDIENTS (makes 1.5 litres/

2% pintsl6t/z cups)

CouRr-eouu-LoN ts usED FoR poAcHrNG FtsH, cRABs AND vARtous orHER

Arrrn

usrr.tc

lr

oNcE FoR poAcHtNG puRposEs,

tr cAN BE

leeks, coarsely chopped

FROZEN AND THEN RE-USED ONCE OR TWICE

AGAIN BEFORE DISCARDING.

4 carrots, coarsely chopped

2 celery

sticks, coarsell chopped

Place the vegetables and fresh herbs in a stockpot or large saucepan.Add

4 onions, coarsely chopped

6 shallots, coarsely chopped

sulhcient water to just cover the ingredients. Bring the water to the boil.

2 Add the peppercorns, salt, lemon

liquid to the boil
again, then simmer

slices, star anise and wine.

Bring the

2
5

bulbs
cloues

fennel, coarsely chopped

garlic, unpeeled
o;f

for about 30 minutes.

Strain the stock by pouring the contents of the pan through a muslin-

1 large sprig each

thyme, taffagon, basil and parsley

cups cold water

lined colander set over a large bowi or food container. Discard the vegetables, herbs, spices and lemon.The

2 litres/3% pints/9
259/1oz rock salt 2
lemons, sliced

Court-bouillon is now ready for

use.

% teaspoon white peppercorns

Aiternatively. chill or freeze until required.

4 star anise
400m1/14J1 oz/1% cups dry white wine

STORAGE
Counr-goutlloN wrLL
KEEp

FoR up

ro

2-3 olys on ron

rr.r

SEALED coNTAtNER

lN THE

REFRtcERATon

2-3

MONTHS IN THE

FREEZER.

Veal stock
THe ense FoR MANy oF My sAUCES,VEAL Srocrc HAs RtcHNEss, BoDyAND
AN ATTRACIvE

INGREDIENTS (makes about 2-3 litresl3%-S% pintsl9- l3 cups)

colouR.VrnL soNes ARE BEsr

FoR THts

srocK

BECAUsE

OF THEIR GELATINE

AND FINE FLAVOUR; BUT YOU CAN ALSO USE BEEF BONES,
BUTCHERs,

jkg/57'lb 2

ueal or beeJ bones

THe eoNles cAN BE oBTAINED FRoM MANy TRADIIoNAL

BEEF BONES TEND

200m1/7J1 oz/',4 cup oliue oil

large onions, coarsely chopped

ALTHoUGH YoU MAY NEED To oRDER THEM IN ADVANcE.AS BoTH VEAL AND

TO BE QUITE

LARGE, ASK

THE BUTCHER TO CHOP THEM

4 large carrots, coarsely chopped 3 celery

sticks, coarsely chopped

UP FOR YOU SO THAT THEIR FLAVOUR CAN BE FULLY RELEASED.

% whole head garlic, unpeeled

Preheat the oven

large roasting

to 220"C/425"F,/Gas Mark 7. Place the bones irr a pan with half the olive oi1 and roast in the oven until gold-

tablespoons concentruted tomato purte

cwps Madeira

350m1/12fl oz/1%

en brown, turning occasionally.This should take between 1-1%hotrs.

350m1/12fl oz/1% cups ruby port

10 litres/18 pints cold water

Meanwhile, place the vegetables with the garlic

in a stockpot or

large saucepan with the remaining oi1. Fry gently until tighdy coloured,

2009/7oz

mushrooms

turning occasionally.

7 large Bouquet Cayni (page 18)

BUILDING BLOCKS I7

] .- : ::r the tomato pur6e and continue cooking until everythingis gold: .'. jr then pour in the Madeira and the port. Reduce the liquid by : ::cntlv until it acquires a syrupy consistency. { ': , c the bones have a rich colour, drain them ofany fat using kitchen
: :.-t cls if
necessary.

STORAGE

Tte sroc<
FoR

wrLL KEEp FoR uP To

oevs tN A

SEALED

CONTAINER IN THE REFRIGERATOR, PROVIDED IT IS REBOILED

A GooD 5
2

utNures

EVERY

2-3

oevs.

Tur srocr
_

Add them to the vegetables along with the water.

I4AY ALSO BE FROZEN

IN

USABLE AI4OUNTS AS DESIRED

5 - :.::. rhe water to the boil, skim off the scum that rises using a ladle, then ' r: inushrooms and the Bouquet Garni. Simmer very gently for about
.:'. rkinrming offany further scum that accumulates on the surface'

FOR UP TO

T4ONTHS.

6 .':,::: the stock by pouring the contents of the pan through a muslin: -.,l.rnder set over a iarge bowl. Discard the bones, vegetables and
,::: (';rrni.
.i :'.-r out the stockpot or saucepan and return the stock to the pan
.:,...r'n again

until reduced by half. Cool and use as required.

Lam

b stocl<
INGREDIENTS (makes about
2 lltresl3Z pints/9 cups) 2kg/4'/.lb lamb rib or neck bones

!.:: r:Lv FoR usE tN LAMB DISHES AND sAUcEs.WE usE RIB oR NEcK oF -i 3ONES, BUT SHOULDER OR LEG BONES ARE ALSO FINE. I
,'::'irc.rt the oven to 200"C/400"F/Gas Mark 6. Place the lamb bones
r:gc roasting tin and stir in haif the oil. Roast in the oven for 50-60

100m1/37,J1

oz/% cup oliue oil

7 large onion, coarsely chopped

,::.\. turning occasionally until well browned.

large carrots, coarseLy chopped

sticks, coarsely chopped

2 3 { 5 6

'.i.'.rnll'hile, in a stockpot or a large saucepan, heat the remaining oil,

2 celery

: :':.xrn the vegetables for

.

abor.rt 15 minutes, stirring occasionally.

% whole head garlic, unpeeled

):glaze r.vith the wine and cook until the liquid has reduced by about

250m1/9JI oz/1 cup dry white wine 1 tablespoon concentrated tomato purle 1 Bowquet Carni (page 18)

: \rir

in the concentrated tonato pur6e, Bouquet Garni and the water.

,i :nrove the bones from the oven and tip into the stockpot or saucepan,
,,,: cereful to avoid pouring in any of the fat or oil.
.:.rJual1y bring to the boil, skimming

8 litres/ 14 pints nld water

with

large spoon to remove any

-'-:::r.nt that forms on the top. lJorl gently for about 4 hours or until reduced by half,
. .r.rona1ly.

STORAGE
sti11

skin'rming

LnMe SrocK wrLL

KEEP FoR uP

To A wEEK lN A

SEALED

CONTAINER IN THE REFRIGERATOR, PROVIDED IT IS BROUGHT

7 t..rretully pour through a mi-rslin-lined colander set over a bowl. 6 'd ipe out the stockpot or saucepan and return the stock to the pan. Boil :.::r r.rntil reduced to about 2 \itres/3% pints/9 cups. Cooi, chill and
:.:rrr)\'e any fat that sets on the top. use as required.

To rHE BorL FoR A FEw MINUTEs evenv 3-4 olvs.

ALSO BE FROZEN
UP

lr vnv FOR

_ IN USABLE

AMOUNTS AS DESIRED

TO 2 MONTHS.

-E
I8 BUILDING BLOCKS

Chicl<en stock
A cooo
IN TUT
BASE

srocK,AMBER-CoLOURED AND Nor

roo srRoNG

lN TAsrE'
FRESH

INGREDIENTS (makes about

3 litreslS% pints/l 3 cuPs)
3kg/6',41h raw chicken cdrcdsscs or about the
sdme rueight

RESTAURANT

WE MAKE IT USING THE

CARCASSES FROM

cHTcKENS,BUTYOUCANUSEBONYCHICKENJOINTS,SUCHASWINGS', TOOO INSTEAD. Ir YOUN LOCAL BUTCHER CANNOT OBLIGE, CHINTST

sToRES ARE

in bonl' chicken joirtts

A GOOD

SOURCE OF THESE JOINTS, SOLD FROZEN

lN

PACKS'

e.g. tuings, drumsticks

Tsnw rlem wELL

BEFoRE usE.

5 litres/9 pirtts coltl utater

1 celery sticks, rcarselY choPPed

Placc rlte rau chicken cJrcrsie\ or joirrL' irr 'r 'ttr' kPor ot'l rrqc sauccpln and cover r,vith the rvater. Ijring to the boll. skrlrmirlg rve1l r'vith a ladle'

2
3 3
'.1

leeks, coarsely clLopPed

large onions, qudrtered

2 Add all the remaining

submerged. Return

ingredients. nrakrns sure theY are conrpletely

gentlr,'

ldrge carrots, rcdrse11, choPPed

u,hole head garl.ic, un.peeled

to the boil and sinrnrer

ior about 'lz

hours,

skimming frequentlY.

1 large sprig tlryme

Strai.n the stock b1,

pouri|* tltc ronterlts oithe pan through

a

a muslir-r-

259/1oz

tock salt

lined colauder set over or freeze until needed.

larse bo\.] or another large saucep:rn. Discard the

bones, vegetables ar-rd Bor,rquet Garni.

cooi the stlained stock, then chill

STORAGE
THE srocK wlLL
KEEP

FoR uP

To 7 oevs tN A

SEALED

CONTAINER IN THE REFRIGERATOR, PROVIDED IT IS REBOILED

Brown chicken stocl<

Sorne of m-v recipes call for a darker bt'ou'n chicken stock This is achjeved simply by first brorvning the chicken crrcasses or joints in the oven Preheat

FoRA GooD 5 vtNures evrnv 2-3 DAYS.THE srocK

ALSO BE FROZEN _
FoR uP

MAY

IN

USABLE AI'4OUNTS

AS

DESIRED

To 2 volrus.

the oven to 200"c/.100"F/Gas Mark (. Roast the chicken clrcasses or: joints for about 15-20 minutes, turning frequentlH until dark golden bror,vn. l)rain through a colander then proceed s-ith the recipe above'

Bouquet garni
You cout-o
cEL. uSE THE
JUST TIE THEsE LEAVES

AND sPRIGS lNTo A BUNcH,THEN ross

INGREDIENTS (for
'butt' oJ 1 large leek
',4

I Bouquet Garni)

THESEEDSINTOTHEPOT,BUTWEPREFERTOII4AKETHEMINTOANEATPAR-

,BUTT' OF THE LEEK (THE OUTER rWO lenves) AS THE WRAP-

celery stick

PING AND KITCHEN STRING TO HOLD IT ALL

IN PUCC.A BOUQUTT GNRNI

1 sprig thyme few parsley stalks

1 bay leaf
% teaspoon black peppercorns % teaspootr white PePPercorns

wILLKEEPFREsHFoRsEVERALDAYSIFSToREDINTHEREFR|GERATOR.

Separate out the outer 2 leaves of the rvhite of the leek and place the

celery, thyme, parslev stalks and bay leaf

in the centre Spoon in the pepand roli into a neat parcel.

percorns and coriander

seeds.

6 coriander

seeds

2 Fold in the ends and sides of the leek 3 Tie firmly in a nunrber of places.

BUILDING tsLOC]KS

I9

D ressings

and sauces

:: THESE DRESSINGS AND SAUCES CAN BE I.1ADE IN LARGER AMOUNTS -ti:D rN THE REFRtcERnron. lryou HAVE DtFFtcuLTy MEASURING SMALL .'-) oF LIQUIDS, REMEMBER THAT ONE STANDARD MEASURING TABLE-

r ABour l5ml, orur DEssERTspooN l0vl,nNo L reaspooN 5vt-.

3Denaoe
I

":.I) , :.

THIS

ON PAN.FRIED FISH FILLETS SUCH AS MULLET, BUT IT CAN A DIP FOR

CROUTES.

INGREDIENTS (makes enough to fill a

.-SED AS AN ALL-PURPOSE FLAVOURING OR AS

medium glass jar)

200g/7oz/1
cup

pitted bldck oliues

. l.lrcc all the ingredients in a food

: .::r()ut ?-3 minutes.

processor or liquidizer and

40g/1% oz/2 tablespoons anchouies

20g/% oz/',1 cup mpers, rinsed

. :rrro clean screw top glassjars and seal down. Store

in the refrig-

7 cloue garlic, crushed

.i .rre

as required.

1 tablespoon extra-uirgin oliue oil

-e sto
, ,:.,:]E " : ,::
PESTO

HASA MUCH CLEANER,FRESHERTASTETHANTHE

READY-

INGREDIENTS (makes enough to fill a

ETIES.

IT IS EXCELLENTWITH PASTA ORASA GARNISH FOR SOUPS.

medium glass jar)

50g/2oz

/'l

tup pine kernels

cloues, peeled

:;:t pine kernels, garlic and Parrnesan into a food processor or .: .rnd pl'ocess until fine1y ground. :lc nrotor still running. feed the brsil leaves into the machine

50g/2oz garlic
50g/2oz /',4

and stalk ends trimmed

cup

-finely grated Parmesan cheese

leaues

30g/1lioz basil

- :.rr tirnnel, then

slorvly trickle in the oil. Blend r-rntil smooth and

glass

125m1/'lJ1 oz/',1 u.tp extra-uirgin oliue oil

\:\,rc in clean screrv-top

jars in the refrigerator.

3asic salad vinaigrette

.:;. , NEGAR PROVIDES DEPTH OF FLAVOUR, AND OLIVE OIL BLENDED -- :..OUNDNUT OIL GIVES A LIGHT CONSISTENCY TO OUR VINAIGRETTE.
: :he r-inesar into a bolvl
:.
.in11.

INGREDIENTS (makes 350m|/

l2ll
5)tnl

ozl lt/z cups)

t 2J1 oz

rup sherry t'incgar

cup extra-uirgin oliue oil

or

jug.Add

a good pinch each of salt and

250m1/9_fl

oz/'l

using a whisk, stir untii dissolved.

5Oml/2J1 oz/',1 cup groundnut oil

I ':.: rhc oils and lemon juice then whisk

again

to fortn a light
can

juirc
sea

o;f % lemon

.:.'r.Trste for seasoning and use as required. LeftoverVinaigrette

salt and ground white pepper

:'r'ctl in a screw-top glass jar and shaken prior to '::i ir :rgain.

Llse to

20 I]UILDING tsLOCKS

Truffle cream vinaigrette

OuR nccot.tPANtMENT FoR THE Mosntc

wtrH CnssnGE AND CEees (ence 67), eur EQUALLY sruNNlNG rossED lNro sALAD or Mtxeo Salno LERvrs (encr 54), on PoURED ovER Hor NEW PorAroEs AND
Rngetr
SIMpLE pOACHeO rtSH.TnUrFLE OIL

or

INGREDIENTS (makes about

350mf/l2ll ozl | % cups)

150m1/% pint/% cup extra-uirgin oliue oil

CAN

BE

FOUND lN GOOD DELICATESSENS.

50ml/2J1 oz/% cup groundnut oil

5)ml/2J1 oz/% cup trtffie oil

In

borvl orjug,whisk together the oils,vinegar and a good pinch each

tablespoons sherry uinegar

of salt and pepper.

50ml/2fl
sea

oz/'l

cup double cream

2 Lightly whip the cream until it just begins to hold soft peaks, then fold it into the Vinaigrette. Taste for seasoning and use as required. Leftover
dressing can be stored

salt and ground white pepper

in

a screw-top glass jar.

Sauce vierge
A
coRrnNoeR AND
BASTL DRESSING

wHlcH

MAKES

AN

EXCELLENT MATCH

INGREDIENTS (for 6)
6 basil
leaves

FOR RED MULLET, SCALLOPS OR FRESH PAN-FRIED TUNA.

5 large coriander leaues

I 2

Shred the basil and coriander leaves into fine jr-rlienne strips, and crush
seeds

6 coriander

seeds

the coriander

using a pestle and ntortar.

50ml/2-fl oz/%cup extra-uirgin oliue oil

Heat the oi1 and lemon juice very gentlv in a srnall saucepan then add

tablespoons;fresh lemon juice heaped teaspoon Shallot ConJit (page 94)

the Shallot Confit, herbs, crushed berries, vinegar and seasoning. Stir briefly, then remove from the heat and leave to infuse ibr at least 5 and up
to 30 minutes. Serve the
sauce warm, at room temperature

% teaspoon balsamic uinegar

sea

or chilled.

salt and ground white pepper

Sauce antiboise
A clnsstc
TASTE

FnrNcu MeotrERRnruEAN sAUcE wlrH A woNDERFUL

FREsH

INGREDIENTS (makes about

450mll% pint/l% cups)

TO

COMPLEMENT ROASTED FISH OR LAMB, BUT EQUALLY GOOD

TOSSED INTO PASTA

AND RICE SALADS OR MIXED INTO HOT NEW POTATOES.

3 3

large tomatoes, weighing a total oJ about 400g / 1 4oz

I Dip the tomatoes 2 lna 3 4

first into boiling water, then into

co1d, and

peel their

large shallots,Jinely chopped

skins away. Quarter, remove the seeds and cut into very fine dice; set aside. heavy-based pan, sweat the shallots and garlic gently

1 small cloue garlft, crushed 200m1/7J1 oz/'% cup oliue oil

in the oil for

about 5 minutes or until softened, but still uncoloured. Meanwhiie, shred the herbs into fine julienne strips. Mix them into the
shallots and leave to infuse off the heat for 5 minutes'

6 basil

leaues

6 large coriander leaues

6
sea-

sprigs tdrragon
o;f % lemon

Stir in the tomato dice and heat gently. Add the lemon jr-rice and

juice
sea

soning to taste. Serve hot. The sauce can be stored in the refrigerator for
several days and reheated as necessary.

salt and jeshly ground black pepper

BUI LDI NG BLOCKs

Rouille
AFnTTcHEGGANDOLIVEo|LSAUCEToSERVESPREADoNRoUNDSoF FRENCg BREAD, THEN FLOATED IN FISH SOUPS, SUCH AS BOUII.LNBNISSE

INGREDIENTS (makes about 3}Omll'/, pint /lt/a cups, enough for 4)

11

wrrH snrrnoru NEW POrnrors (encr ll4).AlrenNnrlvElY,rRY lTWlrH

ROASTED SARDINES OR GRILLED SALMON.

potato, weighing about 859/3oz

2 eggs, hard boiled 2 eg4 yolks

l Boil
io cool.

the potato, then peel and mash

it to a smooth pur6e. Set aside

cloues garlic, crushed

3 pinches o;f sffion strands

Peel the hard-boiled eggs, chop them roughly and rub through a metal

200m1/7fl
sea

oz/'l

cup oliue oil

rieve using your fingers or the back of a spoon'

salt and ieshly ground black pepper

3 Put the potato and

egg

into a bowl with the egg yolks' garlic

and

.casoning. Crush the saffron strands into the mixture and blend well' 4 Trickle in the oil very slowly, beating steadily with a wooden spoon
.ri if making a mayonnaise,

until you

have a thick, glossy sauce Correct the

.easoning and serve'

Red wine sauce

A
WITH FULL-BODtED SAUCE THAT lS BRILLIANT FOR SERVING NOT JUST

INGREDIENTS (makes about

400m1/ |

yEAT BUT ALSO WITH

MOnrrtsu (encr | | 3) nruo courrr oF TuNA (encr 107). I orrrN SERVE FlsH wlrH MEAr'XrAry'
FlsH, sucH As ROASTED

4ll ozl lT, cuPs) 800m1/1 pint 1011 oz/3'l

(page 18) 1

cups Chicken Stock

STOCK BASED SAUCES.

75cl bottLe red wine

Have ready the Chicken Stock and set aside' In another saucepan boil :he bottle of wine until it is rich and syrupy and reduced to about enough

tablespoons oliue oil

8 shallots, sliced 1 teaspoon fue-spice Powdet

:o fil1 one large wine

glass.

2 In yet another saucepan, -

heat the

oil and

saut6 the shallots together

12 blatk peppercorns
1 sprig thyme 1 small bay leaf

.,r'ith the five-spice powder, peppercorns! thyrne and bay leaf until .rramelized about 10 minutes. Deglaze with the vinegar then pour in
:he red wine'syruP'.

1 tablespoon sherry uinegar

sea salt and rteshly ground black pepper

3 Stir in the Chicken Stock, bring to the boil then boil hard for about lo minutes to reduce by about ha1f, skimming occasionally with a ladle
.rs

required.

pour this at least twice through a sieve lined with wet muslin or a fine
a

cloth to remove all the vegetables and herb particles until you have
.r'r]ooth sauce. Season as required.

22 BUILDING BLOCKS

Jus de fraises
CoNslsrtNc
pLEMENT soLELY oF THE PURE JUIcE

oF

RIPE STRAWBERRIES

- wlrH

No

INGREDIENTS (makes about

300rnll% pint /l% cups) 500g/1lb 2oz ripe strawberries, hulled and
sliced

ADDEDsUGAR_THIsFRESH-TAST|NGDESSERTSAUcEIsTHEIDEALcoM-

ron

cnEme en0lEr oR lcE-cREAMS.

in a heatproof bowl. cover with cling film and set the bowl over a pan of simmering water for 25-30 minutes, or until the juice has drained ful1y from the fruit. 2 Meanwhile, line a sieve with damp muslin or with a damp, thi'n tea

Place the strawberries

towel and place over a bowl.

3 Remove the

heatproof bowl from the heat and pour its contents

sieve,

through the sieve. when all the juice has dripped through the discard the fruit pulp and chili until required.

Crdme pAtissidre
A
XNNVTTIOUSLY USEFUL BASE FOR COLD

OR HOT

RECIPES.

UST IT ES N

INGREDIENTS (makes about

600m1/

CREAMF|LL|NGFoRFRU|TTARTSANDFLANSoRASASoUFFLEBASE.
BECIUST A SINGLE BATCH CAN HAVE MULTIPLE USES, IT IS WORTH MAKING

pintl2t/z cuPs)

500m1/1 pint/2% cups milk 759/2% oz/% cup cdster sugar

MoRETHANYoUNEED,EsPEcIALLYASITWILLKEEBIFWELLcoVERED'FoR
UP TO A WEEK IN THE REFRIGERATOR.

egg yolks tablespoons

90g/3oz/% cup 2

plainJlour

I Put the milk to boil in a large saucepan. 2 ln a large bow1, whisk together the sugar and egg yoiks until the mixture is pale. Gradually work in the two flours, mixing well until
the ingredients are blended smoothly.

1 dessertspoon cornJTour

MAKING SMALL QUANTITIES:

the milk srarts to boil, pour half of it in a thin stream on to the yolk mixture, whisking well as you pour.When it is u'e1l blended, whisk

3 when

lr rs unno ro t'tAKE CnEvr PArtsstERE lN VERY SMALL euANTrrEs. lr n Rectpe cALLs FoR A QUARTER oF THE
AMOUNT GIVEN
HERE, MAKE

A HALF-QUANTITY AND DIVIDE

IT

in the remaining hot miik in the same way. 4 Return the mixture to the saucepan and set it over a iow to medium heat. Cook gently, stirring occasionally, for up to 2 minutes until i't
starts

tNTorwo. lrn necter

FOLLOWING AMOUNTS:

cALLs FoR oNE-THIRD'THEN USETHE

to leave the sides of the pan. It should now be smooth and thick. cool for a few minutes, then spoon back into the bowl. cover the surface tightly with cling frlm to prevent a skin from fornring.
When cold, use as required.

200m1/7Jl oz/% cup milk

tablespoons cdster sugctr

egg yolks tablespoons plain

2
2

flour

1 teasytoon cornJTour

BUILDING BLOCKS

23

Stock syruP
SUCH AS POACHING - I:-- FOR A GREAT MANY DESSERT METHODS A r- \c DRIED FRUIr sucH AS Appt-E Tullrs (encr 184) on PRovlDlNG OF ITS HIGH SUGAR t * : :]R, FRUIT SALADS AND FRUITTERRINES. BTCNUST '.t:\T, Srocr SYnup reeps wELL lN THE REFRIGERAToR FoR AT LEAST I -:r-rs. lT IS ALWAYS usEFULTo HAVE A BATCH To HAND'
FRUIT'

INGREDIENTS (makes about

1.5 litresl2To Pints/5% cuPs)
5 5 0g

1',/,lb /

2% cups granulated sugar

'l

litrc / 1% pints / 4'l cuPs cold water

grated zest oJ 1 lernort

:lti .j.

\ugar, water and lemon zest

into

a heavy-based saucepan'
ai1

Bring

:.. the boil, stlrrlng occasionally'When boil the syrup for about 5 minutes'

the granules of sugar have

-.

until required' rnd store in the refrigerator in a sealed container

Pite a bombe
PROVIDESTHEM .: -'lS ASTHE BASE FOR MANY OF MY ICE-CREAMS AS lT '- -,GHTNESS AND sTABlLlrY' THE METHoD ls slMlLAR To rHAT usED . -AKING LEMON CURD - THE INGREDIENTS ARE STIRRED IN A HEATWATER UNTILTHE MIX"T::: BOWL SET IN A BAIN-MARIE OF SIMMERING - :: S THICK ENOUGH TO HOLD A WOODEN SPOON UPRIGHT'

INGREDIENTS (makes about

700m1/l% Pints/3 cuPs)
8 cgq yolks
150m1/% pint/% cuP cold water

2009/7oz/1

cuq caster sugdl

i
,

r:
:-

,-,

i:rLlcepan of water on

to boil' Meanwhile' in a small to medium

yolks, water and :,..rf borvl that will fit inside the saucepan, whisk the : .rrtril the ingredients are smoothly blended'

L i.

.-:n the water st:Irts to boil, adjust to a simmer and set the bowl the height rr :hc saucepan, ensuring that the water level just reaches mixture has '.,k. stirring frequently, for up to one hour or untii the upright ...:rcd the pornt at which you call stand a wooden spoon

' : illl\tufe.

to

:: ientre. During cooking, check the water level from time to tlme ' :.\l it up with more boiling water as necessary'
'
,::-

cool slightly then the heat remove the bowl, allow the mixture to Using :: tl.rrough a fine sieve with the back of a spoon or a ladle

.-cctric whisk, beat the mixture until

it

is cool and has become light

.::lrrttr. U\c

as requlreo.

-r
24 BUILDING BLOCKS

Meringue
Italian meringue
THIS IS A
STABLE TYPE

OF

MERINGUE

WHICH HOLDS ITS VOLUME AFTER

INGREDIENTS (for about

2 litresl3i% pints/9 cuPs)
3 5 0g

MADE WHISKING, MAKING IT IDEAL FOR USE IN SOUTTIES. TgE SUCNR IS

rNTo A
NEED

SYRUP, BoILED

To rHE HARD BALL srncr (ron wHIcH You wlLL rUrN wHlsKED INTO WHIPPED
EGG WHITES.
FROI'4

/ 1 2oz / 1t4 utps cnster

su,qar

SUGAR THERMOMETER),

2 6

teaspoorts Liquid glucose

LtQuto

cLUCOSE, AN INERT SUGAR WHICH PREVENTS SUCROSE SUGAR

100m1/3'/'J1 oz/'y' cup cold water

egg whites

HARDENING, CAN BE BOUGHT FROM CHEMISTS'

I put the suear, glucose

and wtter into :i heavy-based saucepan and place

over a gentle heat, stirring occasionallr," until the sugar and glucose have

NOTE: lF you Do Nor

WHITES WITH

HAVE

AN ELEcrRlc MIXER' Mix rHE

EGG

dissolved.when clear, boil the svrup to the soft ball stage

that is, rvhen

A BALLOON

WHISK TO THE SOFT PEAK STAGE

it

reaches 116"C/2'+0"F
Meanr.r,hi1e,

rvhich takes about 5 nrinutes'

stand tnixer, r,vhisk the

BEFORE POURING THE SYRUP INTO THE BOWL.

in a large mixine bolvl or electric

egg r,vhites to the soft peak stage :rnd turn otT the m:rchine. Let the sugar

reach 121.'Cl250"F

the hard ball stage

u,'hrch takes a minLlte or two.

Lnmediately renlove the s,vrup fronl the heat' 3 Tr.rrn the mixer rvith the egg lvhites back on to a slorv speed'

Slorvlv pour the sugar syrup dor,vn the side of the borvl into the rvhrtes,

and continue to u.'hisk until tepid. I-Jse as required'

French meringue
TI-TIS YTRINCUE NEEDS

TO BE USED QUICKLY DowN wHEN

LEFT

AS THE SUGAR IS

NOT

DIS-

INGREDIENTS (makes about

soLVED AND

so

BREAKS

To srAND'

lr

ts

Qutrr

UNLIKE

ITNIIRN MTNINCUT,WHICH IS STABLE BECAUSE IT IS MADE WITH

SYRUP.

I litrell% pints/42 I egg tuhites

pinch
oJ

cuPs)

salt
cLtps cdster sugdr

I 2 3

Put the egg rvhites rnto a clean, greaselree borvl \vith

pinch of salt and

250g/9oz/1%

a pinch of the sugar.

Using an electric u,hisk, beat slorvly at first to form a froth then gradBeat to firm peak stage making sure the r.r,hites are not overbeaten, drv
sti1l run-

uallv increase the speed to full por'ver.

or grainy. Slorvlv add the remaining sugar n'hile the beaters are
according to recipe requlrerllents

ning. The mixture should become smooth and gloss1'. Use imrnediately

BUILDIN G I]LOCKS

25

Pastry
Puff pastry
f

NGREDIENTS (makes l.2kgl2lb l2oz)

lr ts rLn -+ HOMEMADE PUrr Pnsrnv ls QUIrE A REVELATION! "G * ].:q. THAN BOUGHT PASTRY YET STILL LIGHT AND FLAKY WITH A FULL, I ..:i- TNSTT. ONCE YOU HAVE PRACTISED MAKING IT TWO OR THREE . -::. - BECOMES SURPR|S|NGLY EASY To Do, AND |T's HARD To TURN
1r

500g/ 1tb 2oz / 3',4 cuPs Plain JTout

good pinch oJ salt

500g/1lb 2oz/4'y' sticks unsalted butter, cut

into chunks 7 teaspoon white wine uinegat
ahout 300m1/% pint/ 1'.'1 cups ice-nld water

-. -C
r,

BUYING READY-MADE SUBSTITUTES'

.:l out 450g/11b of the flour into a bowl and mix in the salt'Rr-rb ' ; )oz of the butter until the mixture looks like fine breadcrumbs'
hand' . ,:r be done rn a food mixer, a food processor or by
.. I -: :irc vinegar, then trickle

A FEW HELPFUL HINTS:

a Tnre rlE
BUTTER

our

oF THE

REFRIGERAToR

ABour

AN

in the ice-cold water, mixing with a table

HOUR BEFOREYOU USE IT'

O

dough'You may not -:::til the insredients come together in a smooth : .-. the water, or you nlay need a little extra lt is hard to be specifrc' wrap :: :iris crn be done in a machine or by hand. Knead gently then

WUCN ROLLING OUTTHE DOUGH,ALWAYS KEEPTHE

EDGES

AND AS STRAIGHT AS YOU CAN AND THE CORNERS NEAT

YOU CAN'T TRUE, TUGGING THEM GENTLY INTO PLACE IF

QUITE MASTER THE ROLLING.

:r;

fihl-r.

] , .:J '

butter' the reuaining50g/2oz of the four wi'th the rest of the and :. l.cst done by machine, processing until the mixture is smooth \nrcs together. Spoon the butter mixture out onto a large sheet of
and shape into a rectangle about 14

a lT ts |MPoRTANT

THAT THE LAYERS

oF

BUTTER ARE RoLLED

ROLLING ISTHE EVENLY INTOTHE DOUGHAND CAREFUL NEAT ROLL AND BEST METHOD FOR ENSURING THIS, SO ALWAYS

:::lrrr
'

x2()cn/5/' x Sin"Wrap up

To roP)' FoLD rN THE SAME DlREcrloN (ceNennllv BorroM

'---:telv in the cling film and chill both the dough and butter packages

AND

GIVE THE DOUGH JUST

QUARTER-TURN EACH TIME'

::

rctrigerator for 20 minutes'

AGAIN IN THE SAIYE DIRECTION, NORMALLY ANTI-CLOCKWISE'

\:r .r lightly floured work surface, roll out the dough to a rectangle .: ts'ice the srze of the butter mixture (approximately 25 x 35cm/10

-r:i .Try to keep the

well edges as straight as possible and the corners

. - -1. Iinecessary, tease the dough into shape' the 9 -r;c the butter nlxture down the long side of the dough' fold over " completely then pinch the edges to seal' 6 : :he dough in 7 :
one direction only until

-,:ir to enclose the butter dry pastry-brush' then carefully roll - )ust off any surplus flour r'vith a

it is about

three tin'res the

: -:ir. r'naking sure none of the butter breaks thror"rgh'

down and placi,.rlcl the dough neatly inro three, bringing the top third

Give the dough a quarter-turn and roll out roll out again to :,:ir. I)ust the board and rolling pin lightly with flour and and corners neat' ..rrq rectangle the same size as before, keepi'ng the edges

:hc bottom third over

it'

8 :

in cling fiinr rnd leave to rest in the -.::igerator for 2tl minutes' IJnwrap, then, with the snrooth' folded edge
Fold into thirds as before, rvrap
tfre side, ro11 out again into a long rectanele as before'

26 BUILDING BLOCKS

Fold again in three, give the dough a quarter-turn, ensuring the folded

edge is still on the same side as before, and repeat the rolling and folding.

Give another quarter-turn and fold into thirds, then fold again immediately so that you have a double thickness of pastry.W'rap in cling film and

chill again for 20 minutes.

|

If making the pastry

ahead,

you can freeze the dough at this

stage,

divid-

ing it in halfor quarters according to the recipe. If, however, you intend to
use the dough straight away, then roll

it out twice more, rolling, folding

and

turning

as before.

The butter will have been rolled into wafer-thin

layers

between the dough; this is what causes it to rise in light, crisp layers. For spe-

cific baking times and temperatures, check each individual recipe.

Rich sweet pastry

Tuts sweer,vnNtLLA-sCENTED pAsrRy cAN
CAN BE FROZEN.
BE MADE tN

AN ELEcrRtc MtxER

INGREDf ENTS (makes 1 kgl2lb 4oz)

THEN DIVIDED INTO BATCHES OF 25OG/9OZ OR 5OOG/ILA 2OZ, AN]V

LEFTOVER PASTRY

2509/9oz/2% stitks unsalted

rcom temperdture

butter, softened dt

180g/6oz/% cup

cdster sugar

I Mix the butter and

the mixture.

sugar

in an electric mixer until smooth but

seeds and add

4 vanilla pods 2 x size 2

eggs, beaten

not flufTy. Siit open the vanilla pods, scrape out the

them to

500g/1lb 2oz/3%
% teaspoon salt

cups plainJTour

2 3

Gradually add the eggs, one by one, watching that they don't curdle. Sift together the flour and salt in a large bowi.Turn the machine dor,vn
as

Stop the machine once or twice and scrape down the mixture.

to its lowest speed and spoon in the flour in stages.As soon

and knead

the mixture

clings together as a crumbly dough, stop the machine, remove the dough

it lightly by hand to a smooth, round ball.

4 Divide the mixture into batches according to the recipe required. 5 Wrap any leftover pastry in cling film and store in the freezer where
it will
keep for several weeks.

BUILDING BLOCKS

27

Making fresh pasta

: --r-GH
l4ANy oF My
REcIPES

CALL FoR 200-250c17-9oz pLsrl

USE THE SHEETS.

INGREDIENTS (makes 8009/llb l2oz) 550g/1lb 4oz/1

cups

-, IT'S EASIER.
..]ER TO

TIIlEWISE,

TO MAKE A COMPLETE BATCH AND OR CANNELLONI

plainJlour

MAKE YOUR OWN TAGLIATELLE

generous pinch of salt

:AN BE INTERLEAVED WITH :REEZETHE DOUGH IN

FREEZER TISSUE WRAP

AND

FROZEN.

4 2

eggs

A BALLAS IT FORI4SA

DRY SKIN

AND ISTHEN

5 egg yolks
tabLespoorts oliue

,-r ro

RoLL

our. RolltNc our

PAsrA ts EAslEsr

wlrH A PARTNER.

oil

Pasta dough
::r. tlour and.alt
Logethcr and place in
:':i)cessor along with the eggs, yolks and oil.

. .intil the mixture starts to come together .:.r crumbs. Stop the nrachine and press
of the mixture together in your The mixture should not crack, but if it ':'\).css it again for a few seconds. Tip the
.rnrount

:, out onto

board and knead well until you

.nrooth, firrn ball of dough.

It should feel soft but not sticky. Wrap

eight equal pieces
a

rrsir in clir-rg film and ailow to rest for an hour or two.

2 Divide the dough ball into

and knead each piece again until smooth.Taking

piece at a time, ro11 out each one

in turn with a roiling pin on a lightly floured board until vou

have a rectangle about 5mm/%in thick.

3-4

Feed each rectangle

pasta

ofdough through the

machine several
.,^--:-wrrll )Ldr Lrrrts .,,:1L ,L-

times

-,--L

:: .rdjusted to the thickest setting (i.e. with the

::'i

\videst apart) and adjusting the setting by

notch each time, finishing with the thinnest

::rg.You are now ready to cut, fill and shape your
:.r.

rccording to the individual recipe.

]:.,:a,.:,i:'
,::,t"'
,,,.

"'

:'. ::'.':

:::,

make fresh pasta by

hand twice a day

for ravioli, tortellini and tagliatelle to serue either as starters or in sowPs.

a
2B IJUILDING T]LOC]KS

Tortellini
fillillg accorcling to the recipe Ycrr't s,ill probabh'neecl about hrlf thc'qurntin'of ]r:rstr b:rsic lecipe' Dor-rg1-r rollecl out :rs dcscribed in the

Preparc yor-ir

allorving for sorlle \v:lstf,qe'

b,v be:rting 1 cgg

Pre pat'e

sotne cqg rvesl-l

lolk u'ith a pir-rch oi

st:1111p

s:rlt ancl

? teaspoorts of rvater, then set rsicle' Using a 9crn/

3Zin round cutter,

out

:1s

lriulv

c--ilcles

:rs

vou reclnire tortelfini.

:ffi E

1E

2-3Pressrballoffillirlgontoorresic]eofeacl.rp:rstlclisc.Usingapastr:-v_ p:rstr disc n'ith the berten eqg rvash' brr.rsh, brush round the edqes oieach 4.5FolcloVeItornakeaserrli'cit-clc.Irr.esstheedgesrrelltoseal,rrlakirrq
sure thel:e :rre no :rir pockcts ol: teal:s'

5-8
cclgc

trvo tips of the straight Take e:rch semi-circle in vour hatrcl ,rnci curl the up itltlcr r'ittg'r" 1'1't"111. s'cll to seal.Then tttrn the edges :r,'ttttd

)"ttt'

to for"rn

:r

'brinr' likc'

:r

l-rrt l{cpcrt s'ith tl.re rer.naining clough and filling'

BLANCHING PASTA IN ADVANCE 9-10 lllanch hott'renrade pasta in boiline

r':rtet", :rl1olr'ing ? mintltc-s

srltecl

ior tortellini rtld r:n'ioli'

and 30 seconcls for t:rglirtelle I)r'rirl atrcl itrnlet-se in ice-colcl Nilter Lrntil colcf i)rain again'Wr:rp in

ciing

filrl

and chil1 r-rnti1 require

c1'

Reheat in a ltt-

tle boiltng rvater and butter for 1-2 tnlt'lutes' Altern:Ltivell'. cook prsta for one lllillLlte longer
than the
tir-r'res

given above . dr:rin, toss n'ith a 1itt1e

br-rtter atrcl serve imulediatelv'

IEL*******

BUILDINC] BLOCKS

29

Tagliatelle
'
'.'.rre

the Pasta Dough (page 27) and

ro11

out to the thinnest setting.

.. rllou'the sheets to dry out for about 10 minutes by hanging thern

' :. brcks of clean ch:rirs. .: rire sheets lightlv r'vith flour. Fix the special noodle cutters into the
..rihnre. Feed

in the first sheet of dough with one hand, using the

: . turlt the handle.As the pasta strands emerge, stop turning at lnter:':'.'.rJing the noodles oLtt on the other side to prevent thern sticking.

I ' {

:-:r vou've finished clrtting the first sheet, lift up the noodles in one
.:..1 ru

irl thettt dorvn inro .t nest on I

trJy. Lcrve

to drv our [or

,rrrinutes.

::-h ,rnd refiesh the tagliatelle (page 28), then continue with the
.::r.r1

recipe.

R,avioli
-2
filling according to your recipe. : rlh'. r'ou w-ill need about half thc quantity
,':.e!.rrre the

.:.r I)ough rolled out

to the thinnest setting

a 1Ocm/4in round
Press the

'.rr prsta tnachine. lJsing

.:. .ut out 2

discs

for each ravioli.

.- rnto small balis and place on half the pasta

. lirr-rsh round the edges rvith egg rvash as for '. .rrrr and place a second disc on top of each.

Seal the edges

of

ti-re pasta

l:-^^ ulrLJ

L--.-;.-^L:-^ UY PllILrrrr15

them firrnll' together.You u'il1 need to stretch the dough so that

it

extends to the edges, nroulding

it

around the fi11ing so there

are 11o alr iaps or tears.

Take a crimpcd ctrtter

onc )i7e sntrllcr thrn thc

rounds, cr.rt the parcels into

neat ravioli, then peel off

- c-\cess

dor-rgh from around the edges.

5 lllanch and refresh the ravioli

(page 28), then

:rrinue with the individual recipe.

:ii
ril
:|,.
;i
rllr

'r:p

if

.::,'::

.l1 ,.,ll,

i.

,:::

k
ffi

#
p

.. nt(tking soups

at any time of the year - whether to serue hot or chilled.The

''.:t of a good sowp is to excite the palate: certainly,

don't see a soup just

as

tt'r

carry

few

ltieces of

floating

debris. maybe
(page

Our soups come in many guises: first as an amuse-gueule

'::t

chilled Cucumber Gazpacho (pog, 45), a clear Tomato Consommt

..r perhaps a light

frothy

Coppuccino, serued

in tiny espresso cups to tanta-

:ttc tastebwds,Then there are soups fhat resemble light, main meals with lobster

;,

or

prettily 'turned'

uegetables resting

in a light Fish Veloutb (page 14).

Euen the simplest of ouy soups bears an enhancing garnish. For exdmple, the
.:.

pttrted Broccoli Soup (page 50) has a special touch of baby rauioli; and

my

':trite Coppuccino of Haricots Blancs with Morels (pog, 32) is topped with ',:,' delicate shauings
o;f

trffie.

But the starting point of all my sowps is natural;flauour. For ntany of

ttt, this medns beginning with a well-rounded stock that has been reduced to '.:r'ntrate the essence of flauours. For other soups,

use A lighter Vegetable l{age

one,

;J(' 13) so as not to ouerpower

the

flauour of the main ingredients; and in

Broccoli Soup, the 'broth' is simply water.

{AL

il

32 SOUl'S

Cuppuccino of haricots blancs with morels

A ltcur, FRorHy soup
FLAVOUR

tN wHICH

n rtNE puREe oF HARIcor

AND

BEANs GtvEs

INGREDIENTS (for 6)
800m1/1 pint
611

AND

BODY, WHILE TRUFFLE OIL

MORELS ADD AROMATIC LUX-

oz/3% cups either Chicken Stock

Tur cAppucctNo-LtKE FRorH ts MADE By wHtsKtNG wtrH A spEctAL ELEcrRrc Bnvrx (srr pncr 189 ron sueerrrn), ALrHoucH A DoMESTTc
uRv. t'4uLTt-BLENDER

(page 18) or Wgetable Nage (page 13)

250g/9oz/1

cup small white dried haricot beans,

wtLL GtvE stMtLAR

RESULTs.

AoolNc tcE-coLD

BUTTER ts rHE

soaked ouernight

SECRET OF PRODUCING

A GOOD FROTH FOR CAPPUCCINO

SAUCES

AND

SOUPS,

1 sntall onion, pceled 1 carrot, peeled

Have ready the Chicken Stock or Vegetable Nage. Drarn the soaked
b_v

1;fresh Bouquet Carni (page 18)

beans and transfer them to a large saucepan. Cover

about 5cm/2in with

1009/3%oz/ 1%

cups

Jresh morels or other wild

lighdy salted cold

bring to the boil.

rvater.

Add the onion, crrrot :rnd Bouquet Garni, then

mushrooms, sliced iJ large

50g/2oz/% stirk

butter plus an extru knob oJ

2 lloil for 3

10 minutes then lolvel the heat to a sirnnrer and cook for

ice-cold butter _for seruin,q

a further 25-30 minr-rtes or

until the

beans ale

just soft.

1-2 teaspoons trulJle oil

150m1/%

Using a slotted spoon! relnove about 10{.)g,/3oz of the beans and reserve

pint/'/

cup double crcant

for the garnish. Continue cooking the remaincler fbr"a further 10 nrinutes or until they are very soft.

a.fewfne
sea

slices o;f;fresh

trufile (optional)

salt and Jreshly ground black pepper

Drain, discard the onion, carrot and Bouquet Garni and blend the beans
a food processor
a sieve

to a fine pur6e in

or liquidizer'. For .rbsolute perfection,

a

rub the pur6e through

with the back of

ladle,but this is not vital.

5 Clcan our rhc sruceprn rnd

add either-thc

hickcrr Stock

or

rhc

Vegetable Nage. I3oi1 for 5 minutes to reduce the liqr-rid.

6 For tl-re garnish, saut6 the mushrooms brief'l.'in

cooked, then stir in half of the trulfle oil.

rhe h,rtter rrnril

i1151

Using a Banrix or a hand-held electric multi-blender, mix the reduced

stock into the bean pur6e until the remaining truflle oil.

it

is smooth, then rvhisk in the cream and

Divide the reserved beans and mushrooms between r,varmed soup plates
sor"rp,

or cappuccino cups. Check the seasoning of the

f-rnth __.-'__ rrn *r fhe '__.- snrrn '"*r'

then reheat to boil-

ing point. Using the Bamix or blender, u'hisk in the ice-cold butter and

9 Distribute the soup

over the beans and morels, frothing

it up as you
slices

work to prevent it losing its airy rpperrance. Garnish with the fine oI lresh tru[fle ilt using and ccrve instantly.

:ii''"' i:::'

',:: ,::':,::.

SOUPS

35

C.ppuccino of roasted langoustine and lentils

-r: aor BLANcS,THE LtrrLE BLUE-cREEN FneNcu Puy leNrts pRo: : \F LIGHT SOUP AND ALSO MAKE AN INSPIRED MATCH WITH LAN-'.:s. SrRve rHrs soup tN sMALL BowLS AND,JUsT BEFoRE sERVtNG, ,' --: soup wrrH A Bnvrx (srr pncE 189 FoR suppltER), on srNil-lR
.- :

INGREDIENTS (for 6)
150g/5oz/% cup Puy lentils
7 smdll carrot, peeled
% onion, peeled

YULTI-BLENDER, FOR TRUE CAPPUCCINO STYLE.

1 largeJresh Bouquet Carni (page 18) 1 litue/1% pints/4% cups Langoustine Stock

::'-: lentils well by placing them in a sieve beneath cold running

(page 15) or Fish Stock (page 11)

-,:r,tcr to a saucepan. just cover with cold water then add the

teaspoons double creant

'

.':r .rnd Bouquer Garni.

1 teaspoon trulfle oil a lirrle oliue oil,Jor sautieing 72 medium langoustines, shelled and cleaned

- :.' rhe boil then simmer for about 20 minutes or until quite soft. ' -: .|scard the vegetables and Bouquet Garni. In a food processor
::.'.:r blend the lentils to a fine pur6e, and set aside.

259/1oz/',4 stick ice-cold unsalted butter, diced

sprigs of parsley or cheruil
sea

'.r: Lrngoustine or Fish Stock into another

saucepan and bring to

.::r rn the lentil pur6e and rehear unril it just srarrs ro rhicken. :' otherwise the mixture will not froth to a cappuccino later. Stir
.

salt and Jreshly ground black pepper

:..r:rr and the truffle oil.

.,-:ri

pan, heat the olive

oil then saut6 the langoustines for about

over. Divide them

':.. turning frequently to colour them all

::r r\'.lrmed soup bowls.

< rhe seasoning, then froth up with a Bamix or similar device,

- :::r diced blltter

as

you whisk. Pour over the langoustines in the

- ,:nrsh with the parsley or chervil sprigs and serve immediately.

?,

dS

.$,&

S' $

:d eg,

*:

l"i *

*i X ;ir

36 SOUPS

Watercress souP with Poached oysters

Aunll-sensoNFAVOUR|TE,WATERCRESSSoUP|sAPOPULARBRtttsuotsu
sERVED

INGREDIENTS (for 5)
8009 /

Hor lN wlNrER oR

LIGHTLY cHILLED

lN suMMER' Hrnr' I

sERVE

lr

1lb 7 2oz
1%

watercress

OYSTERS HOT AND GIVE IT ATOUCH OF LUXURY WITH POACHED

SO EASY'

1 litre /

pints / 4% cups cold uater

SO SIMPLE AND SO CLASSY.

1 tablespoon salt

tablespoons oliue oil

I Trimthe watercress ofits stalks.Discard the stalks. then rvash the ieaves
trvice. Drain lvell'

150g/5oz potatoes, thinlY slircd b tttediutn I()

/d,Qa o)'i/e,:'

2 Put the water and salt to boil in one

a second, larger Pan'

Pan! and heat the

oil

rn

jeshly ground

black PePPer

3JustastheoilstartstogetVeryhot,careful]l'addthervatetcressleaves and stir continuousiy as they begin to n'ilt' 4.Whenthewatercresshasreducedbr,abouttrvo_thirdsinvolume,add frorn the other the potatoes and stir lvell. Pour rn the boiling sllted r'vater
pan. Return

OPENING AN OYSTER
Usr oNrv oYsrERs rHAT
THEy ARE
ARE TIGHTLY SHUT As

rHls

MEANS

srlLl

FRESH.

Horo rur oYsrER FIRMLY wlrH lrs

TEA TOWEL FLAT SHELL UPPERIYOST AND WRAPPED IN A THICK

to the

boi1, then sitr-uner

fot 6-l minutes' or until

the

To

pREVENT sLlPPlNG. Ustruc

sPEclAL oYsrER KNIFE oR

potJtoes have toftened.

BETWEEN THE SHORT, FIRI4-BLADED KNIFE, INSERT THE POINT

Transfer the vegetables and liquid to

Pass

r foocl

processor or liquidizer and

Two

sHELLs NEXT

To rHE

HINGE.

Twtsr rle
PRISE APART

KNIFE UNTIL

blend to a smooth pur6e.

the pur6e through a sieve using the back

THE HINGE BREAKS AND YOU CAN

THE

SHELLS'

as possible of a ladle. If cooking ahead' cool dorvn the pur6e as quicklv preserve the colour by standing the pan in a borvl of iced u'ater'This helps

lvreotr'rerv sllcE
OYSTER

THRoUGH THE

llusclE ATTAcHING

THE

TO THE SHELL AND FLIP THE FLESH OUT ONTO A PAPER

SHELLS

of rhc

soup.

TowEL.TlP THE JUlcEs FRoM THE AND

RESERVE

lNTo A sflALL cuP

5 Just prior to servlng,

smal1 saucepan.

prise open the oysters using an oyster knife or one rnto a with a rigid, short, sharp blade (right) Save their juices and drain Bring the juices to a gentle boil' then add the oysters tlnd poach for just 5 seconds so they ate iightly cooked' 7 Return the soup pur6e to the saucepan and

FOR LATER USE.

bring back to the oyster boil. Place an oyster in each r'varmed soup plate Add the the juices to the soup, check the seasoning and pour the sor-rp over
oysters. Serve immediatelY.

SOUPS

37

Soupe de poissons provengale

* . '-:; :' --i
SOUP THAN BOUILLABAISSE' THIS CLASSIC SOUP FROM THE Fq.eNcE sEEMS

INGREDIENTS (for 4)
1kg/2lb loz smdll Mediterranedn.fkh,
chosen conger

To

BE MADE ALL ovER EuRopE WHEREVER

lr

ls

1 i _3 BUY A GOOD VARIETY OF SMALL MEO

SECRET OF THIS SOUP lS

TNRNNEAN FISH.

from wrasse, rockfish, gurnard, tascdssq

eel,

TO

USE AS MANY DIFFERENT FISH AS

Jolm Dory, monkfish or

dorade

." : \D. YOU WILL !..,.= WITH

NEED

STRONG FOOD PROCESSOR FOR THIS

100m1/3'/,J1 oz/% cup oliue oil

FRESHLY

VNOE CROOTONS

(I

LOVE LOTS OF CROUGRuvER.e cHEESE.

150g/5oz onitttt, rcarsely chopped

1 uhole head garlic, split

-:-:f"1ADE Routllr (ence

2l) nxo PLENTY or

in lulf

: : !-tERMAN'S

SOUB SO EAT IT WITH GUSTO.

1009 / 3%oz .fennel, coarsely chopped

1 Bouquet Carni (page 18)

-.:'.rre the fish. Remove and discard the eyes and gi1ls (these rvi1l
::.1: t:rste bitter) but leave the bones, then chop into smal1 pieces'

1 tedspoon sffion strands

tablespoons Cognac tablespoons white wine

choPPed

I I . |

::-' \.rlrcepan, heat one-third of the oil, then : - lSouquet Garni and satTron.
r:,.:. -'

saut6 the oniorr,

3
'1

2009/7oz ripe tomatoes,

in a large frying pan, heat the remaining oil and fry the fish
are golden. Drain through a colan-

litrc/1% pints/4% cups cold water

'irt 7 minutes or until they

.feut stalks oJ basil -few stalks of pdrsley sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

, .. r:.1 the oil.

- :l.h to the

saucepan, then deglaze

with the Cognac.'When the

' t

:.'.luced, add the wine and simmer briskly until the liquid has
i:.!)r.rt one tablespoon.

TO GARNISH:
1

r::\)nr:rtoes, water, basil and parsley stalks. Bring to the boil ::: tirr ?5 minutes, skimming off any froth with a ladle every :.:J .ontents of the pan through a colander set over a large bowl' ' r- .:r.rined liquor. Reserve the fish and vegetables in the colander'

x quantitl

Rouille (page 21)

l,,aJ

I snnll, thin bapttnc

oil for

Jtying (optional)

1509/ 5oz

Gruyirc

cheese,

grated

.: ::rc garlic and Bor-rquet Garni.

::-.:liClOth.

Pr-rr6e

the fish and

vegetables

:.'.,.'l processor, thinning the pur6e rvith a little of the reserved

' r- i.rck of a ladle rub the pur6e through a fine sieve set over a ::',:n stir in the reserved liquor. Check the seasoning. Set aside . :':.p:rre the garnish of Rouilie (page 21) and crottons. '. ..iv the Roui1le. For the croitons, slice the baguette very thinly

r. :ir in hot oil, turning :-l i

r nrinutes.

once until golden brown and crisp, or

,. ..ren preheated to about 180'c/350"F/Gas Mark'1 and toast for

: l.rtirre serving, reheat the soup gently while yor-r spread the . .'. rth Ror-rille. Ladle the soup into large, rvarmed bowls, float
:: ':r\ on top and sprinkle over the grated Gruydre.

38 SOUPS

Fr

Ked mullet souP

FResr Reo MULLET

ll

(noucrr)

rs BEcoMTNG rNcREAstNGLy popuLAR rN THE BUT ALSo FoR

INGREDIENTS (for 4)
1 litre/1% pints/4% cups Fish Stock (page 14) 4 small red mullets, edch weighing about 1259/402, prepared into.fillets but with
heads and bones reserued

UK, Nor oNLy FoR rrs vtBRANT sKrN colouR,

FLAVOUR AND TENDER, FLAKY TEXTURE.

rrs

FrNE

IT

MAKES

A GOOD

SOUP AND, IN

THE RESTAURANT, WE SERVE IT WITH LITTLE TORTELLINI STUFFED WITH A

FTLLtNG MADE FRoM THE FrsH t-lveR.

Buv wHoLE FrsH, UNGUTTED AND

DESCALED, AND ASK YOUR FISHMONGER TO FILLET THEI.1, SAVING THE HEADS

2 pinches
1

oJ

sffion

strands

AND BONES

FOR THE BASE OF THE SOUP.

pinch

o;f cayenne pepper

a Iirtle oliuc oil,Jor sauteeing

Have ready the Fish Stock and set aside.'Wash the red mullet

fi11ets,

2 shallots, sliced
% hedd celery, roughly chopped

in cold water. Pat dry s-ith kitchen paper towels then remove any pin bones with tweezers. 2 Sprinkle the fillets with the satTron and cavenne. cover rvith cling film
heads and bones and set aside in a cool place or refrigerrtor to marinate for about 2 hours.

1 medium bulb fennel, roughly chopped

cloues

garlic, unpeeled

'l00g / 3%oz tomdtoes, chopped

Saut6 the fish heads and bones rvrth a 1itt1e

of the oil in a larse

1 teaspoon Pernod d little lenton juice

sea

saucepan,

for about 5 minutes or until golden

bror,vn.

4 Add the vegetables

so. Stir

and tomato and cook for a further 5 minutes or

has evaporated.

salt and;freshly ground white pepper

in the Pernod and cook until it

5 Pour in the Fish Stock so as to cover the contents of the

30 minutes.

pan.

TO GARNISH:
1 small carrot, cut into -fine julienne strips 1 small courgette, cut into

Bring slowly to the boil. Turn down to a gentle simmer and cook for

fne julienne strips

Transfer the contents of the pan to a food processor or liquidizer and

a

blend until smooth. Strain first through a fine sieve, then through

colander lined with wet muslin or clean fine cloth; this thorough straining

will give you a good

clear soup. Set aside.

Blanch the julienne of carrot and courgette in lightly salted boiling aimost ready

water, then drailr and chill in ice-cold water. Drain again and set aside,

8 When you are

mullet, skin-side down,

fry the fillets of red in a little more olive oil for about 2 minutes
serve, pan
side

to

or until golden bror'vn; then flip over carefully and cook the other

forjust 30

seconds.

9 Return

the soup to the pan and reheat until just boiling. Season with

lemon juice, salt and pepper. Place the fried fillets of red mullet in the

bottom of each soup plate and slor,vly pour over the hot, clear

soup.

Garnish with the julienne of carrot and courgette and serve immediately.

XX *l

:*sx

:ss.

X X *: g

ep

$,$

3s

4O SOUPS

Pumpl<in soup
WleN
pUMpKINS ARE

with roasted scallops

ro
f4AKE FoR

tN sEAsoN THts ts A GLoRtous soup

INGREDIENTS (for 8)
1 litre/1% pirtts/4'y' cups l:ish Stock (page 1
5
8

A sf4ALL cRowD.

Eve N

wurN

THEy ARE

Nor ARoUND tN GREENGRocERS'

1!

SHOPS, PUMPKINS CAN OFTEN BE TRACKED DOWN

IN

ETHNIC FOOD

x 2.5kg/5%llt pumpkin )nl

/

oR rN Wesr lNornru MARKETS. loeLLLy, MAKE THrs soup wtrH Ftst-t Srocr, wHtcH GoES wELL wtrH THE GARNtsH oF scALLops. Orre Rwrse CrrcrceN Srocr (encr l8) oR Vrcerlsre Nlcr (encr l3) wrrr BE FrNE.
sroRES the Fish Stock and set aside. Qu.u'tcr thc punrpkrn, pcel it and renrove all the seeds. Clhop the flesh into 1cm/Zin dice.
Have
r:ead-v

2Jl oz / % cup oliue oil

checse,

59/ -)oz Parmesan

freshly grated
leaucs

1009/3',40: baby spinach

8 snllops, shelled, rrimnted dnd washed (balou) 25g/'1oz

/'l

stick butrer
creatn

100n1 /

3'/.fl o: /% cup double

1 tablespoon chopped cheruil

sed strlt and .l)'eshly ground black pepper

Irr .r lrrgc '.rrrccp.rrr. helr hrlf tlrc oil rhcn stil in rlre rlir'ed purrrpkin. stirrinq r.r,-e11 to coat. Cover and srveat the l'lesh gently for about 10-12 minutes or until

it

starts

to soften and takes on a golden colour. Acld the Parmesan and cook
contents

OPENING A SCALLOP
Horo To

Pour in the Fish Stock, bring to the boil then sirnnrer lor a iurther
occasionalir,-.

rle

scALLop FtRtlLy wRAppED tN A THtcK

TEA

TowEL

l-5 minures. ' stirrins " "t.-

for

PREVENT sLtpptNG. UstNG

A sHoRT,

FtRl'1-BLADED KNtFE,
PRISE

further 5 minutes. Remor,-e fi-onr the heat.

iNSERT

THE POINT BETWEEN THE TWO SHELLS AND

THEIY

4 In a food

processor

or iiquidizer. biend the

until

of the pan If

nplRt. DtsclRo rHE Top

slgrl. Srtor rHE

KNTFE BENEATH
SHELL.

to a pur6e. Pass the

rvith the back of it looks
a

pr.rl6e through a

fine sieve sct or-cl thc par, rr.rbbing

r'er,v snrooth and silkri dor,vn a little.Taste

THE MUSCLE TO SEVER IT AND DISCARD THE BOTTOIY

a ladle or u,-ooden spoon

Purr nwny

rnr

FRTLLv tyEMBRANE

AND THE BLACK tNTEslNE.

little thick, add nrore stock or w:rter to thin it

DrscnRo rHE oRANGE-pINK coRAL oR usE THts

ro

I'.1AKE
I,1EAT,

and adjust seasoning.

CoRnr Poworn (ence 56). Wl,sr rHE scALLop

Blanch the spinach quickly

in a little boiling s-atcr thcn druin rvell,

COVER

WITH CLING

FILM

AND CHILL UNTIL

REQUIRED.

drr irt l.lc.Lrr tc.r fot|cl. 5 Heat the remaining oi1 in a 1arge, heavy-based frving pan and 'roast' the scallops fbr about 2 nrirrutes on each side or uutil thel- have plcntv of colour. Ilenrove from tl're pan and split each sc:llop ir hrlf rvith a
1.1.'.'irrn r_.- __'b the leave' sharp knife.

Divide the scallops rrd spinach leaves betrveen e:rch soup bolvl. Reheat

the soup. gr-rdtralll 'tirri:rS in rhc burrer rnJ crcant..r:ttl r.Lstr'orttc .rglin

for

seasoning.

When the soup is on the point of boiling, ladle it over the scallops and

splnach, then sprinkle over the chervil. Serve imnrediately.

SOUPS 4I

!t ussel soup with red peppers

,E.lnope, rr rs
. , -\D.Trrs
rs

":REASING

NUMBER OF MUSSEL BEDS NOW AROUND THE

INGREDIENTS (for 4-5)

1.5 litres/2% pints/5% cups Fkh Sto& (pdge 14) 2kg/4%1b.fl'esh mussels, shelk tightly closed
200m1/7.11

possrBLE

To

BUy

FREsH tyussELs

ALtlosr
sERVE

A REALLy DELrctous LtcHT, cLEAR soup

ro

':

:'rlLLY MONTHS OF WINTER OR CHILLED lN THE

SUI.4MER.

WARMER,

oz/l

cup dry white win.e

. tr.S OF

7 Bottrluct Carni (page 18)

tablespoons oliue oil coarscly thsppgd

:lt

Frsh Stock and set aside.

2 *allots,

':.,i\\cls three times in cold r,vater, scrubbing

. ,:-Js. Heat a large pan and,
r,r,'hen

if

necessary to
rnussels,

1 celery stick, &opped 1 leek, whitc only, sliced

hot, add all the

: ::r.' u'ine and the Bouquet Garni. Cover and give the p:rn .r ',,k. turning the mussels once, r-rntil their shells have opened ::.::rr. Discald any that renrain closed.
::: rhe heat and drain through a colander, reserving the liquor
: ..

cloues

garlic, unpeeled dnd crushed

1 large potato, weighing about 2509/802, peeled and chopped

tomatoes, chopped

r' .rbout 500m1/18fl oz,/2 cups). Pick the mussels from the
.rbout one-third of the mussels for the garnish and discard

good

pinch of salJion

:-

1 tablespoon Pemod
100m1

/37.f1 oz/'.4 nry double ueant

,:''lc :aucepan, heat the oi1 and sweat the shailots, celer,v, ieek,

sea

sdlt and Jieshly ground black pepper

: .:.'

until lightly coloured, about 5J minutes. TO GARNISH:

1009/ 3%oz red pepper,.finely diced
1009 / 3 %oz yelktw peppu,

::..rls not being used for the garnish, together lvith the torna-

'

.. :,'r' .r [trr-thc; -{ lpiprrre. f-).-] ',e " irh rh,' r'crrr,riling ::.luced bv half.

ryirre.

-fine\

diced

, . rtlron, Pernod, 1,.4 Iitres/2% pints/(r cups of the Fish Stock : -'.i nrussel liquor. Bring to the boil then turn down the heat
:

,: l5-18 rlinutes.
, ;lrre
sreve

: :':'!)cessor or liquidizer, blend the ingredients to r puree. then rvith the back of a ladle. Set
aside.

-.:'rri.h. cook the diced peppers in a little

salted

boiling

rvater

::r:iiLrtes then drain. Reheat the reserved rnussels

in the remain-

' . .' .rncl dllin. 'r-' \oup until it is just

.:.

approaching the boi1, then stir in

::.i .r$nst the seasoning. Place the reserved r,vhole mussels and
rn the bottom of r,varmed soup borvls. Pour over the soup and
..::.rtc]r'.

11l.

i:

SOUPS

43

r*pbster soup with summer vegetabl es

:'.] YY HOLIDAYS IN THE SOUTU OT FRRNCE, NOT ONLY TO - :.:O TO GAIN INSPIRATION FROM THE LOCAL CUISINT.TUIS ":.:.\T STYLE OF LOBSTER BISQUE - ALMOST A MAIN MEAL : - :riv^vi tN THE FRe Ncu Mrotre RnnNenN. lt ts BEsr SERVED ::... ON N SUIIMEN'S ONY.AS YOU WILL NEED TO BUY FOUR - j ;a.oBABLY BEST-SUITED TO A SPECIAL MEAL. lF YOU PREFER : -CBSTERS READY COOKED, THEY WILL NOT NEED TO BE
INGREDIENTS (for 4)
1 litre/1% ltints/,1'./, cups Lobster Sro&, ntddc by
redpe -for LangLtustine

followinq the

Stotk

(pdge 15) and substitutins lohster sltells

dbout 3 litrcs/5 pints Court-bouillon (page 15)
100m1

/3'/,fl oz/'y' atp Basit Sdlad [/inaigrette

3'/tfl

(page 19)
100m1/
oz / % cup double crearn

--.
:

Counr-goutLLoN (sreP 4).

1 teaspoon each o-f chopped tarragon arLd basil

:. Lobster Stock, the Court-bouillon and the Basic Salad :- .lou'n the Lobster Stock until it has reduced by ..'..Lrr 350rn1,/12fl. oz/1% ctps. Stir in the cream and the
\.:rion and set aside,
',\
leavi.ng the herbs

100g/3%oz baby carrots, lighth' 100g/3%oz baby leeks, outer

5;v6psi1

leaues peeled

100g/3%oz/% cup broad beans, podded (thawed

i;f jozen)

to infuse in

the

ircn cold, strain through a fine sieve and chill the soup.
',\.rter. Cover and blanch

100g/3%oz/% cup petits pois (thaued i;f i'ozen)

100g/3%oz baby onions, peeled 50g/2oz Jresh girolles, lightly peeled a littLe butter,-for sautteing
squeeze of lemon juice

:'..rcc all the vegetables, except the girolles, in a large pan

for 3 minutes. Drain well and \.rledVinaigrette while still warm. Leave to cool. in a -::',,lles in the butter for 2 minr-rtes or so, then mlr

:: -jr.rice. Set aside

to cool.

1 liue baby
1

lobsters, each weighing

350-5009/

' :

bring the Cor-rrt-bouilion to the l.'fdr-s and cook them for 5-6 minutes. Leave to cool in -.:r volr are ready to serve, remove the lobsters fi-onl the
or- large saucepan, scoop olrt the flesh lrom the body and

2-1 6oz

sea

salt and freshly ground blnck pepper

TO GARNISH:

'.::r' in half and

spri.qs o.f _flatJeaf parsley

and tarragon

, rn s'hole pieces. lrqhtlv chilled lobster soup betrveen large, wide :.r the iobster meat and place in a ring in the centre of ::rr.h round the outside with the reserved vegetables and . .rnd tarragon.

,:ii.,,l

-.: aal: ,::: ::i

:iil.
,ii,-:::t,

{t

44 SOUPS

Oyster and scallop

Sor,rerrmrs, rNsrEAD oF suBMERGtNG
LIFT THEM UP ON THE PLATE

sou p
tN souB I
LIKE To

TNGREDTENTS

INGREDIENTS (for 4)
150m1/% pint/% cup Flslr Sro,:ft plus d little exn'd Jbr podching @age 14) 250m1/9J1
1 00g / j

HERE

WITH

I'4OUND OF HOMEMADE

Tnclrnterre - so rHEy
LreuoR
sERVED As

RETAIN THETR SEPARATE FLAVoURS,

wlrH

THE

LTGHT sAUcE.

lN rHE AuaenGtNE,wE

sERVE

THls souP

oz/1

cup FishWloutt (page 11)

2

WITH A GARNISH OF CAVIAR.

%oz homemdde Thgliatelb (page

ready-made

9)

or _fi'e sh

I Have ready the Fish

Tagliatelle

Stock,

the

Fish Velor-rt6 :ind

the

homemade

'/

cltcumber, peelcd oysters, rentoued -from their shells, juices

if

using, and set aside.

1 lnrge

Cut the cucumber into 5cm./2in lengths. Stand each picce upright and

reserued (pdge

36)

slice

offthe four

edges around the seeds. Discard the square seed-block in

aside.

large scdllops, shelled, trinnned dnd washtd

the centre. Cr-rt each slice into thin juliennc strips and set

(page 40)

3 4

Poach the cucumber in a little Fish Stock

- just enough to

cover

for

.iuice o,f % lemon

about 3 minLrtes. Drain and keep rvarnr.

teaspoons _finely chopped chnes

o_f

bring the renraining Fish Stock and the FishVelor,rt6 to the boil.Add the reserved oyster juice.Turn dorvu to
Ir-r a 1arge. heavy-based saucepan,

knob
sed

butter

sdlt and.fi'eshly ground black pcppar

a very gentle

sirlmer

ancl poach the oysters

for about 30 secortds.Add the

scallops and cook for a further 30 seconds.Add the lemon juice, the chives

and seasoning to taste; set aside in a u'arm place.

in a little boiling r.vater rvith the butter added until just tender, about 2-3 nrinutcs. If you are using fresh ready-made pasta, follou' the pack instructions. Drain, and lift r"rp a 5 Cook the
homenrade Tagliatelle quarter ofthe pasta onto a fork and roll irrto a spiral.

6 Push the spiral off the fork into the centre of a 1arge, u'arnred
soup borvl, theu pur sorrre cuculnber strips on top. I\epeat u''ith the
other bor,vls.

7 Using a slotted

spoon, rerlove the oysters and scallops from their

poaching liquid and arrange them neatlv rround the pasta. Bring the soup back to the boil, spoon

it over the

shellfisl-r and serve irnnrediately.

46 SOUPS

Cucumber gazpacho
Orue oF ouR Mosr popuLAR soups. WE sEnve rHts cHtLLED,
AS

INGREDIENTS (for 6-8)

300m1/% pint/1% cups Wgetable Nage (page 13) .

AN AMUSE-6UEULE' lN SMALL DEtllrAssE cuPS BEFORE THE srART oF A MEAL.

lr

ts

nlso GooD

sERVED

rN LARGER poRTroNS AccoMpANrED By A LrrrLE

1 whole cucumbers 200m1/7JI oz/% cup double cream 100g/3%oz grated;fresh horseradish or about

FLAKED cRne. THe MAIN FLAVoUR oF THE CUCUMBER IS ACCENTUATED BY THE INCLUSION OF HORSERADISH. FResH HoRsrRADrsH cAN BE FouND rN soME spEcrALrry cREENGRocERS

cAVrAR, PRAWNS

oR cooKED,

oR

you cAN

GRow youR owN.

you wtll

tablespoons horseradish relish

NEED

To

srART

MAKTNG

tablespoons each of chopped basil, tarragon, cheruil

THIS SOUP A DAY AHEAD,

and chiues

150g/5oz/% cup mascarpone

cheese

I 2

Have ready the Vegetable Nage and set aside.

Peel the cucumbers, cut in half lengthways and scoop our the seeds

squeeze of lemon juice

a teaspoon.

and set

with chop half of the cucumber into fine dice for the garnish; cover aside in the refrigerator.

tablespoons creamed horseradish

sea

salt and freshly ground black pepper

cucumber half into thin slices, then marinate for 2'[ hours in a large bowl with thevegetable Nage, cream, fresh horseradish or horseradish relish and half the herbs.

3 cut the remaining

4 ln a food processor or liquidizer, pur6e the mixture until smooth (you may have to do this in rwo batches), then pass the pur6e through
a fine sieve set over a large bowl, rubbing wooden spoon. about a cupful of the pur6e into the mascarpone until it becomes smooth, then blend rvith the rest of the cucumber pur6e. Adjust the seasoning, adding a good squeeze of lemonluice. Stir in the creamed horseradish. Chill the soup for at least 6-8 hours before eating.

with the back of a ladle or

5 whisk

Serve the soup garnished

with the

reserved diced cucumber and

the remainine herbs.

SOUPS 47

lout6 of artichokes with foie gras

:.: . :)
GLOBE ARTICHOKE
BRAISED

IS

EXTREMELY VERSATILE. LEGS,

Iru PNNIS INTC

INGREDIENTS (for 6)
800m1/1 pint 5Jl oz/3% cups Chicken Stock
(page 18) orVegetable Nage (page 13)

WITH PHEASANT

AND THEY ARE PARTICULARLY

,: . if, WrrH A sAUTE oF MUsHRoovs. HrnE I Hnve re,rrN A Rusrlc . i .r\D ADDED THE SOPHISTICATION OF FOIE GRAS AND RAVIOLI OF

large globe artichokes

- ':.r ooN't FEEL LIKE MAKING RAVloLl (srees 5-6) rHEN SIMPLY ' .',:rH slrcED, snurEeo MUsHRooMs. VecrtnRtlNs cAN usE

juice of % lemon
50ml/2J1 oz/% cup oliue oil
100g/ 3%oz shallots,Jinely slircd 7 Bouquet Garni (page 18)

.:-.

NncE

TNSTEAD

or Cutcreru Srocr,AND oMlrrHE

FolE GRAs.

,.i
': :irc

the Chicken Stock orVegetable Nage and set aside.

stalks and pul1 a1l the leaves from the artichokes,

tablespoons white wine

trimming

20g/%oz -foie gras,Jresh or canned 100m1/31/'Jl oz/% cup double cream

sea

.-l.rokes and hearts.

Remove and discard the hairy chokes then

. .:ts. Drop the slices into a bowl of cold water

with the lemon

salt and freshly ground black pepper

.: io stop them from turning brown.'When you are ready to

,:::rhokes, drain them well and pat dry.

FORTHE RAVIOLI:
150g/5oz homemade Pasta Dough (page 27)
150g/ 5oz fresh cipes or a mixture of brown
mushrooms, shiitakes and oyster mushrooms

'-:

..[lcepxn,heat the oil and gently saut6 the artichoke slices and

:.:l.rer with the Bouquet Garni, until the vegetables are golden

:.. caramelize

about 8-10 minutes.

-' -

:ire pan with the white wine and, when it has evaporated, pour

50g/2oz/%

stick butter plus a knobJor reheating

.{L'n Stock orVegetable Nage. Bring to the boil, then simmer

lninutes. Remove and discard the Bouquet Garni. In a food the mixture to a pur6e, then rub

teaspoons chopped cheruil

1 egg yolk beaten with a pinch of salt and

' : lrquidizer, blend

.

it though

teaspoons water

'.::h the back of a lad1e; set aside to cool.

r:

r.rvioli. Cut 6 slices of cdpes, or mushrooms of your choice,

a frying

::::.h and finely chop the remainder. Melt the butter in :::c slices quickly, remove from the pan and
reserve.

Add the

--:.\ or mushrooms to the pan and saut6 until softened, about 5 \ -:ion rvell, mix in the chervil, drain, cool and chill. Shape the
: :.- (r balls and set aside.

.: :ire pasta to the thinnest setting on

a pasta

machine.To make the

'

,.rr m,elve 9cn/3'/zin circles and enclose a ball of fi11ing

egg wash

in

each

- ,.'.. LJse the beaten

to

ensure the edges are well sealed.

:.:hod see page 29.) Blanch and refresh in iced water (page 28).

J. reheat the soup and stir

in the foie gras and

cream until

:..'k the

seasoning. a pan

little water and the knob of butter. . .rr into warmed bowls, place a ravioli in the centre of each and : :rc ravioli in with
a

::ir the sliced cdpes or mushrooms.

SOUPS 49

*omato
'
'.

consomm6 with little basil ravioli

SERVE

.,:_CES ARE RIPE, FULL-FLAVOURED AND PLENTIFUL, WE

INGREDIENTS (for 5)

'1ETTY SOUP HOT WITH TINY BASIL-FLAVOURED RAVIOLI

Iarge shallots,J:inely chopped

-iE cLEAR, BRtcHT lreuto.Wr rHEN GARNtSH wtrH JULTENNE '_:J DES MORT5 MUSHROOMS AND TOYNTO CONCNSSE. YOU ::i/E
.', THIS coNsoMME cHILLED, oMITTING THE RAVIoLI, AND
FINELy

50mI/2Jl oz/% cup olive oil plus extra to sautt

the mushrooms

1kg/2lb 4oz dark red, almost ouer-ripe,

tomdtoes, coarsely chopped

rH

otcto

VozzARELLA. I'r_l exptntu How

BEcAUSE THEy ARE

ro

MAKE

' : {vroLr ANywAy ,, PesrA DoucH.

(srees 7-8),

A GooD usE

cloues garlic,

thinly sliced

1 teaspoon each sea salt and sugar 1 teaspoon each chopped basil, tarragon

:r.n'r--based saucepan, sweat the shallots in the oil over a very

and cheruil

'

,:.otit 5-6 minutes until they just begin to colour.

12oz of the tomatoes and cook for a further 10 minutes.

1 litre /

1%

pints / 1% cups cold water

- ilb

stalks o;f basil and tarragon

-.:.rc. salt, sugar and chopped herbs. rr \\'.rter and bring to the boil. Skim to clear the surface using

egg uthites

6 white peppercorns 5 black peppercorns

,,r- ladle,

then simmer gently for about 15 minutes.

with a large piece of wet muslin or a clean, old tea ',:.1 it over a large pan. Pour the liquid through the colander, , :: on the vegetables with the back of a ladle to exrract as
.rrrder

FORTHE RAVTOLt (OPT|ONAL):

100g/3%oz homemade Pasta Dough (page 27)

. .,' ..

possible. Discard

the vegetables and chi1l the iiquor

50g/2oz basil

leaues

. :..r'sible by standing the pan in a sink of iced water.'Wash the

I.iter.

a little oliue oil, to rnoisten

egg

yolk beaten with

pinch

o;f

salt and

::rc renraining tomatoes with the basil and tarragon stalks, egg : -',rlrercorns
1

teaspoons water

in a food processor, then add to the pan containTO GARNISH:

boi1, then simmer

it)nttto liquor. for about

. :hc liquor, bring it slowly to the

50g/2oz/% crp trompettes des morts or

mushrooms, cut into

oyster

..:rril the stock becomes clear. Line the colander again with the

jne julienne

strips (page 97)

,\r tea towel over a large bowl or container; carefully ladle

100g/j%oz/% cupTomato Concasse

, 'rock. Cool down the consomm6 again as quickly as possible. : rl.rc basil ravioli for the hot version, have ready the home.)or-rqh. Pur6e the basil leaves with

1 tablespoon small whole basil, tarragon and

cheruil leaues

just

a touch

of olive oil to

..i.iirg a food processor or a pestle and mortar. Spoon this paste

L.:rq

fitted with a plain 5rnn/'/rin nozzle. Place the bag in the

:o

chi11.

:irr il:.li

,:r:

i];.

50 SOUPS

I Roll
va1s,

out the

Pasta

Dough

as

thinly

as

possible (steps 2-3, page 27). Pipe

dots of the basil paste

to the size of chocolate drops - at 3cm/ I%rn inter-

so that the dots form neat, lengthways rows down one half of the

pasta sheet. A1low about 8 ravioli per portion.

Brush in between the dots carefully r.vith the beaten egg wash. Fold over the unglazed half of the sheet and press together the rows of ravioli

with your fingers around the dots of fi1ling. IJsing the end of a plain
2cm/%in piping nozzle as a clltter, cut out as many ravioli
|
as

you can'

0 Bring

a saucepan of water to the

boil and blanch the ravioli for just

10 seconds. Plunge into cold water to arresr their cooking, then drain and
set aside.

Heat the remaining oil in a frying pan and saut6 the mushrooms until

softened. Pat dry

with kitchen paper towels.

l2

To serve hot, reheat the consomm6 and add the ravioli

if you have

made them. Spoon into warrned soup bowls and garnish with the julienne

of mushrooms,Tomato Concasse and herbs.

|

3 To

serve chi1led, without the ravioli, chill the saut6ed mushrooms

briefly, and serve as a garnish together with the Tomato Concasse and
the herbs.

Broccoli soup with little goat's cheese ravioli

Tge soup
TNGREDTENTS MAY

LooK DISAPPoINTINGLY BLAND

IS

- BRoccoll'
SIMPLE'

INGREDIENTS (for 6)
2kg / 4%lb broccoli heads

WATER, SALT AND

A LITTLE CREAM - BUT IT

THE TECHNIQUE THAT MAKES

THIS VIBRANT GREEN SOUP SO SUBLIME;

AND IT IS REASSURINGLY

1,5

litres / 2% pints / 6% cups cold water

Fon n cnnrutsH, MAKE

EtTHER

A Hosr oF BABY RAVIoLl FILLED

wlrH Dors

4 teaspoons sea salt

120m1/4fl oz/% cup 1 tablespoon double freshly ground black pepper

oF

cREAMED GOAT'S CHEESE (Srees

6-9 AND I

l)

On, rOn A SIMPLER GAR-

NrsH, MAKE QUENELLES (enCr 173) rnom THE GOAr'S CHEESE MlxruRE

AND FLOAT THESE ON TOP OF THE HOT SOUP. EITHER WAY,THE

NISH LOOKS GOOD AGAINST THE COLOURFUL SOUP.

PALE GAR-

FORTHE RAVIOLI:
150g/5oz homemade Pasta Dough (page 27)

I Trim

the florets from the broccoli heads. This is very important

you The

75g/3oz

soJt

goat's cheese, e.g. crottin

should have virtually no stalks attached, just the Iast

2crn//in or

so.

tablespoons mascarpone cheese

finished weight of florets should be around 8009/llb 1'2o2.

1 egg yolk beaten with a pinch of salt and

2 Bring the water

for 10 minutes.

to a rolling boil with the

salt.

Add the florets and cook

teaspoons water

SOUPS 5I

.:'ut

reserve the water.This is vital! Return the florets to the pan

: :.rr )-3
li

minutes to dry them out, shaking the pan frequently'

stJge.

. :. .lll lmporfant

al

: :irc tlorets in
,

a food processor or liquidizer, adding a ladleful

of

:J cooking water at a time, and stopping the machine

once or

w1

';r.rpe down the sides. Continue until you have a rea1ly silky, .:.:rtlingly bright green pur6e.You may find this easiest to do in

-:r three
{h*]
|

batches. The pur6e should be the texture of soft, runny

:::
-.-,

.r glossy sheen and

lvithout even the tiniest lump'

t
nr{

rrh a little more of the reserved water then pass the pur6e

: :rrrc sieve. Set aside to cool, together with the remainder of the

,..1tcr.
ro11

t
!
G; *r
.:'

".-r:r{ the ravioli, have ready the homemade Pasta Dough and

,,-t ,llavioli,

steps 1-2, Page 29).

::',: goat's cheese and mascarpone together until smoothly blend-':oorr into a piping bag fitted with a plain Sn'nt/%in nozzle' Pipe

:. .,r.er half the

pasta at intervals of about

2.5cn/1irr' Don't make

".. -

lrrge

they should be the size of large chocolate drops'

I
,e,
&u

. :hin pastry- or paint brush, brush in between with the beaten :::sn tbld the other half of the dough over, aliowing it to fall over

I
Aaf i

'-rclrrred goat's cheese mixture. - :::. cnd of a2cm/%jn plain piping nozzle as a cutter, cut out the : I-he action of pressing down with the nozzle seals the pasta
and set aside' --:ircr. Using a palette knife, scoop up the ravioli ' :'::r)r to serving, bring the broccoli pur6e to the boil and slowly . ::: rhree-quarters of the reserved cooking liquid, then mix in the

r|
sri

ll

::ik the seasoning and consistency. If you want a thinner soup, '. rirhe reserved water. Keep the soup hot. :,' rhe ravioli into a pan of rapidly boiling salted water and - :::L'nr ior just 20 seconds. With a slotted spoon, remove the ,::.i Flx6s in warmed soup bowls. Ladle over the hot soup and
::::.1i.rtely.

-K

't'r('t'is perhaps the

mosf

inJTuential

part of a meal. It

rittn to the diner of his style and

.'','i I I'

it

sets the scene

a chef 's of what is to follow. If

is

ing, then you are inrrigued.

o;f

rf it is brilliant, then you know that nine

'ut

ten the main

coutrse

will

be euen better.

,\ly personal fauourites as starters dre light ;fish or uegetable terrines (or, rt.f'cr to call them, mosaics). Take the SalarJ o;f Sautied Langoustine and
,l ^lubergine (pog, 54): this is a cleuer dish

a bliss;fully happy marriage

lttP' roasted langoustines and ;full-flauoured ;fresh Tomato Concasse (pog,

''ppe

d with wafer-thin dubergine

crispness.

slices sprinkled

with

sug(ty an6 bakerl

;itt

'\[y srmmer-style

mosaics may look dauntingly

difficult to make, but

yest

tltey dre easy!

It

is simply o question of asserubling some best-quality

stock,

Itrs combined
trr

with the basic building block of a good

to

loue making
slice

turn them out and cut the first n'ltat will it look like? what picture will it create on the olate?

d burst with excitement

54 STARTEl\S

Salad of saut6ed langoustine and candied au bergine

Tuts otsu coNTAtNS Two cLASStc EXAI4PLES oF
GouslNES (DueltN Bnv ennwNs),wHtcH coMES
t1Y oRIGINAL srYLE oF

INGREDIENTS (for 2)
about

COOKING: THE SPECTACULAR PINK COATING OF THE FRESH PAN-FRIED LANFRoM THE sMALL GREEN

tablespoons Basic Salad Vinaigrette

tPagt lo1

SACS FOUND IN THE HEADS OF LIVE LOBSTERS AND WHICH WE CALL

15 Candied Aubergine

Slices (pa,ge

180)

rue 'coRnL', AND THE TopptNG oF

Tuese nRr
sERVED

cRtsP CLNotro AueenctNe Srtcrs.

abour 100g/3%oz Mixed Salad Leaues (below)

oN A RrNc oF

FRESH

PRovrNcar sAUcE sET ARoUND

2
1

sprigs chervil

DELTCATE

r4ouND

or Mrxro Snrno

Lrnves.

Furl oF

FLAVoUR AND A

6;fiesh langoustines, peeled and de-ueined

tt:aspoons -fi'esh

TREAT TO THE EYE, THE LANGOUSTINE

CAN BE

PREPARED

WITHOUT THE

2
2

lobster 'coral' (tonnlley)

COATING IF NECESSARY.

tablespoons oliue oil

I 2 3

Have ready the Basic SaladVinaigrette ancl set aside. Also have ready the

FOR THE PROVENQAL SAUCE:

'y' tomato, skinned and seeded

Candied Aubergines and keep warrn.

Prepare the Mixed Salad Leaves. Pick otT the leaves

salad; set aside.

of chervil

and

1 teaspoon.finely diced, pitted black oliues

% teaspoon edch oJ chopped basil and tdnagon

incorporate these into the

To make the ProvenEal sauce, chop the skinned tomato into fine dice

squrcze of ltmon juice

sea sdb and

and rnix rvith the olives, basil, trrragon, lenron juice artd seasoning. Transfer to a snrall saucepan and heat until just 'uvartn but uot hot.

-fre*ly grottnd black pepper

4 5 6

Toss the langoustines

in the lobster'coral'.
tor've1s.

MIXED SALAD LEAVES

I
L|KE

Heat the oil until hot and fry the langoustines for about 2 minutes, strrDress the Mixed Salad Leaves

To

pAy pARTtcULAR ATTENT|oN

To ouR

GREEN SALAD

ring r-rntil lightly cooked and bright pink. Drain on kitchen paper
2rrranlle

rN rHe AueencrNr. Jusr ANy oLD LEAF srMply

woN'T

Do.

with the Basic Salad Vinaisrette and

We
OAK

use

A MrxruRE oF RocKEl

FRrsEE,

LoLLo Rosso AND

in mounds in the centre of each plate. Spoon the rvarm Provenqal

sauce. Balance a Candied

LEAF,

PICKING OFF AND USING ONLY THE YOUNG TENDER ARE GENTLy wAsHED, spuN lN

sauce around the salad, then place eight langoustines on each plate, arrang-

ttps.Turse

SALAD sptNNER

ing them in a rir-rg on top of the

Aubergine Slice

UNTIL DRY,THEN PLACED IN A BOWL, COVERED WITH CLING

FILM

on top of e:rch langoustine and serve imrnediateiy.

AND

KEPT IN THE REFRIGERATOR UNTIL REQUIRED.

STARTEI{S

55

Roasted scallops

with

fen nel and a

150m1/%

ginger cream
pint/2
cups Fish L'tlourl (pa.gc 111

: 3i5T SCALLOPS ARE THOSE THAT ARE HAND PICKED BY DIVERS RATHER .'. DREDGED, As rHEy ARE FREE FRoM GRtr. Mlre suRr rHEy ARE .--Y CLOSED WHEN YOU BUY THEM, AS THIS SHOWS THEY ARE REALLY -. Arrloucg you ooN't NEED THE coRAL FoR THts REclpE, oott't - -: IT AS IT CAN BE DRIED AND GROUND INTO A FINE POWDER AND . rs A FLAVoURTNG FoR Rtsorros AND sAUcEs (ence 56).
..'r'eady the FishVelout6 and the Fish Stock.Add the ginger to the
.

INGREDIENTS (for 4)

4 tablespoons Fi-sft StorA (pa,ry 11)

1

009 / 3 %oz

grattd.fresh root ginger

2
1

ntedittnt bulbs oJ.fennel, sliccd

009 / 3 %oz shallots, sliced

5 tablespoons oliue oil

rahlcspoons

tulrirt rt'in,
cup doublc crcnrn

-lor-rt6 and allow to infr-rse .:r Velout6

for

a ferv nrinutes. Str-ain

it out, returning

80ml

/3fl oz/|4
c
o-f

to

a saucepan; set aside.

.(4rl( c:

ltnton

juirt

: the fennel, shallots and half the oil in a frying pan, heat r-rntil siz:lr.'r'r cover and lower the heat.Allow the vegetables

5 prepared sta|lops, cach u,eighing dbout 259/102, halued lengrhways (page 40)
sea salt

to slveat gently

'irt

12 minutes

until softened;

shake the pan occasionally and do not

:!re vegetables

to colour.
raise the heat slightly and cook, uncovered,

: in the r'vine,

until it

has

:.irrd. Stir in the Fish Stock and boil r,rntil

: J looks syrupy.

it

has reduced

by about

: rr the cream and cook for a further 3-'l minutes.Transfer the nrix' ' r tood processor or a liquidizer and blend to a soft pur6e. Return ).ln to keep warm and season to taste with lemon juice :ind salt. :: gently reheating the gingered FishVeloute. . tirlng pan. he:rt the remaining oil until ahnost srloking and add
.,iops, piacing thern

in

a clockwise direction. Cook for 3 minutes in

ensr.rres even

:-rrning once on1y, rgain in a clockrvise direction; this

::'j. Season we1l.

..rve! spoon the fennel puree in a nert round in the centre ofeach

-.i soup plate. Place three scallop halves onto each circle ofpur6e.

rjn the gingered Fish Velout6 just

::rq.

approaches

the boil, taste for with

a

adding rrore lemon juice and salt if

necessary. Froth r-rp

:ce page 189 for supplier) or a hand-held electric multi-blender

..,u have a good foam, then spoon the sauce around the fennel pur6e.
::rrnrediately.

56 STARTERS

To mal<e scallop coral powder

lNsreno oF THRowtNG AWAy scALLop coRALS,
DRy rHEM THEN GRTND
REQUtRED, A

THEM DowN To A FtNE powDER FoR FLAVouRtruc. Use AS

TABLESPOON OR SO AT A TIME, STIRRING INTO SAUCES OR RISOTTOS FOR

DELICIOUS FLAVOUR

AND GLORIOUS COLOUR.

Slice each coral in half and remove anv dirt. Place on a baking sheet

lined r,vith non-stick baking film. Set the oven to its lorvest telrperature.
abor-rt 80-10(fC/175-225"F,/Gas

Mark Z.

lf

vor-rr oven has a

pilot light

you nny prefer to

r"rse

this method of heating.

for arvthing betrveen 8-16 hor-rrs or until rlrel .rre drrk pink rnd quitc britrlc. Iher .lrotrld'n.tp rvhett ther ale rcrdv. lf tlrey dorr't \n.lp. rcturlr rhcrt to tltc ,,rcn. l('stirrg rr itttervJls.
Leave the corals

in the

oven

until thev do

snap.

Plrcc fl)c a()r,ll\

rvi11

in.r [ood pro('e\\ol

frn

.rr

porvder. (This

rnake qr:ite a noisel) Store

r rttn, .tttd glirrd ro I firr. in r scre\\--top jar.

58 STARTERS

Mille-feuille of red mullet and Iangoustine

SnrrnoN-ruvouRED FtLLETs oF RED MULLET AND LANGouslNEs ARE LAyERED tN A sruNNtNG'wtLLe-reutLLE'ARRANGEMENT AND sERVED
wtrH A TRIcKLE oF oLtvE otL. Mnre
VERY FRESH

INGREDIENTS (for 2)
%

x quantity Aubergine Cauiar

oz/% cup oliue oil

(page 101)

suRE THAT THE LANGousrtNEs ARE

5 medium to large langoustines

100m1/3'/,J1

AND

FIRM WHEN YOU BUY THEM.

pinch

oJ

salfron strands

I 2

Have ready the Aubergine Caviar andVegetable Nage and set aside.
Shel1 the langoustines, then make a lengthways split

2 red mullets, each weighing about 100g/3%oz,

in

each, without
a

flleted into;four
sea

cutting through completely so that you can open them up into

shape. Clean

butterfly

salt and freshly ground black pepper

if

necessary,

then brush with some of the oil and season.

3 4

Crush the saffron strands over the red mullet fillets and rub in well.This
flavour.

TO GARNISH: 3
tablespoons Vegetable Nage (page 13)
leaues

will give them a lovely yellow colour and aromatic

Blanch the basil leaves briefly in boiling water then plunge them into

30g/1oz/% cup basil

iced water. Mix with theVegetable Nage and pur6e in a food processor or

12 baby new potatoes,'turned'into barrel shapes

liquidizer then ser aside.

12 Candied Aubergine
a warm place.

Slices (page

180)

5 6

Cook the'turned'new potatoes in boiling salted water for about 7 nin-

Lltes

or until just tender. Drain and keep in

Just prior to serving, heat through the Aubergine Caviar, check the sea-

soning and keep warm.

7 Heat two-thirds of the remaining oil in a

minutes

heavy-based fryrng
side. For the

pan and lightly saut6 the mullet and langoustines. For the mullet, allow 2

on the skin side and 30 seconds on the flesh

l minute on

langoustines, allow

each side. Remove from the pan and drain.

I Divide the Aubergine Caviar between

each warmed plate

in a mound

in the centre and stack the mullet and then the langoustine on top. Pour a little of the basil sauce around each mound, arrange six potatoes on the
sauce and garnish each potato

with a Candied Aubergine Slice. Finish by

trickling over the iast ofthe oil.

&d$$#n&$&d$#s #"fl
psw ee g

Kr#

Kw

S w sK M

#ww

ffKff# wes #dww s

50 STARTERS

Beignets of oysters with sauce aigre-doux

OysreRs, FRESH FRoM THE SHELL, MAy
BE

THE FooD oF THE GoDS BUT

INGREDIENTS (for 4)
12 .fiesh, prepared oysters (page

THEY ARE ALSO DIVINE SERVED HOT AS BEIGNETS, OR FRITTERS, IN

LIGHT,

36)

cRtsp BATTER. THe

enrrrn ts

BEsr MADE

wtrH

FRESH vEAST, AVATLABLE

a lirtk ltlain J1our, to sprinkle

nbout 500nil /
sed
18.11

EITHER FROI'4 SMALL INDEPENDENT BAKERIES OR HEALTH FOOD SHOPS.

Dnre

oz /

cups oliue oil

o, EAsy-BLEND yEAsr crvEs ALMosr coMpARABLE

IVIAY

RESULTS,

ALTHoUcH

salt and,l)'eshly .grottnd black pcppcr

THE RISING

TAKE

LITTLE LONGER.

FORTHE BATTER:

To make the batter using fi'esh )reast, creanr it rvith a little of the rnilk
a paste.

59/%oz .fresh yedst or '1% teaspoons dricd easyblend yeast

until it forrls

Using a balloon r,vhisk, beat irr the rcnraining inqre-

djents, urrtil srnooth.Alternativclv. blend in ;r food processor. If r-rsing easy-

25}ntl/9fl o:/1 ntp nilk,

qood

u,arnrcd

until

tepid

blend yeast, stir the dried yeast streiqht into the flour and rdd a good pinch

150g/ 5oz / 1 cup plain -flour

of

salt.

Whisk

ir.r

the renrainine nrilk and the beer, beating until smooth.

:1

pinth of solt

Cover rvith cling fi1nr then set the borvl in

warLn pl:rce (sr-rch as an

1 teaspoon bt:er

airing cupboard) and leave until risen and fi-othy. This will prob:rbly take about

hour in the case of fresh yeast but lonlrer for easy-blend.

FOR THE SAUCE AIGRE-DOUX:

Meanrvhile, make the s:ruce. Have read,v the Vegetable Nage. Saut6 the

200m1/7fl
1 medium
'1

o://
re

cup VegetabLe Nage (page 13)

peppers, shallots and herbs

in the oi1 for

abor-rt 10 ninutes r-rntil softened.

evapor:rte d.
b-v

d pepper, cored

and thinly sliced

Add one teaspoon of the vinegar and cook until

nrcdium yellow pepper, cored and thinll, 5licgd

Pour in the Noi11v Prat and cook until it has redr-rced

trvo thirds and

6 large shallors, thinly sliced

looks svrupy. Stir in theVegetable Nage, bring to the boil and simmer for

1 sprig each o,f thymt: and tarragon

% bay lcaJ
5

about 15 rninutes or until the vegetables are soft.

5 Discard the sprigs of herbs and the ba1 leaf, then pr-rlcc rhc vcqetables in a food processor or liquidizer. Rr.rb the pr.rr6ed sauce through a fine
sieve

)nl / 2fl

oz / % Lup oliue

oil

tt:aspoons

uhite wine

uinc,qar

with the back of a ladle. Return the

sauce

to the pan and boil

dou,'n

200m1/7fl oz/,/i cup Noilly Prat

for a feu' l.ninutes until it has a good coating consistenc-v.Add the remarn* ing teaspoon ofvinegar. Season to taste and set aside.

TO SERVE:
2009/7oz Mixed Salad Ledues (page 51)

6 7

Prepare the Mixed Salad Leaves, season and dress r,vith tsasic Salad

\/i" .h^ (qlrLrs - '-L plJtc-. ilr Llrq \ ilrJrqtcttq. tlrclr prJrc 'i.'.-tr- rh-^--"-- ur ^a qJLlr ^1 ^l '-- i"
Pat the oysters dry and sprirrkle rvith a little flour. In a deep

tenspoon-s Basic Salad

Vinaigrettc bagc 19)

fifing

pan

1 teaspoon. cach oJ chopped cheryil and tarragon.

heat the oil r-rntil

it

reaches a temperature of about 175"C/350"F, or

until

a cube of day-old bread turns crisp and golden in under 30 seconds.

Using your fingers or a rvooden sker,ver, dip the oysters into the batter
as

making sure they are rvell coated

the batter is quite thick. I)rop each one

into the hot oil and fry for about 2 rninutes on each side or rlntil golden
and crisp. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on kitchen paper towels.

Spoon the sauce around the Mixed Salad Leaves then arrangc the or-ster
ar.vay.

beignets on the sauce. Scatter over the chopped herbs and serve straight

STARTERS

Beignets of courgette flowers with rh ree-mustard vi naigrette

..

--:

RESTAURANT TRADE

tr

ts, I ncrNowLEDGE, eutrE EAsy

ro

oR.DER

INGREDIENTS (for 4)
2009/7oz Mixed Salad Leaues (page 54)
12 medium to large courgetteJTowers
about 500m1 /18J1
sea salt

:.i.FECTLY FORMED FRESH COURGETTE FLOWERS FOR STUFFING WITH A

FAR:E.

--,'.:
:

SoNrlvrs, you cAN

A

EVEN BUy rHEM ARE ALSo KEEN

AT

euAlrry

cREEN-

.::ERS. HoweveR, MANy cooKs

YAY WELL HAVE
.., ERS

KlrcHEN

GARDENERS

oz/2

cups oliue oil

SURFEIT OF THESE PRETTY, TRUMPET-SHAPED, GOLDEN

RAMBLING OVER THEIR VEGETABLE PLOT. TO MAKE THESE BEIGNETS,

.:3SE

FLOWERS THATARE NEWLY FORMED ASTHEY ARE FLATTERAND SO

FORTHE BATTER:
59/%oz Jresh yedst or :l% teaspoons dried,
easy-blend yeast

iI.-ER

FOR DIPPING

IN BATTER.YOU CNN ALSO

EAT THE WHOLE BABY

:,i.GETTES ATTACHED AT THE STALK.

250m1/9fl oz/1 cup milk, warmed until tepid

urake up batter using fresh yeast, cream

it with

a 1ittle of the milk

50g/ 5oz / 1 cup plain Jlour

- it iorms a paste . Using a balloon whisk, beat in the remaining ingrc-

good pinch of salt

:. until smooth. Alternatively, blend in a food

,i reast, stir the dried yeast straight

processor.

If using

easy-

1 teaspoon beer

into the flour and add a good pinch FORTHE DRESSING:

1

:-:.\)Uhisk in the remaining

milk and the beer, beating until smooth. in a warm place (such
as an

.,r'er rvith cling fi1m then set the bowl

x quantity

Basic Salad Vinaigrette (page 19)

'::
.::

cupboard) and leave until risen and frothy. This

will probably

take

1% teaspoons wholegrain mustard 1% teaspoons

t hour in the case of fresh yeast but

longer for easy-blend.

Dijon

ntustard

] . a

',l:.rnrvhile, prepare the Basic SaladVinaigrette and beat in the rnus:.. \ct aside. Pick over the salad leaves, discarding any thick stalks and
-::rq leaves into small delicate pieces.

1% teaspoons honey mustdrd

-., prepare the courgette flowers, snap off the little courgettes. (Don't

:: J

rhem! These can be used

in another dish.) One by one, hold

each

'..'r gently at its stalk end. Pick out, and discard, its inner stamen. ',\'hen the batter is ready, in a deep frying pan heat the oil until it reach-

. :cnrperatlrre of about 175"C/350"8 or until a cube of day-o1d bread -::. crisp and gold in under 30 seconds.

6 I)ip

the florvers one at a time into the batter, coating them well and

::rrng off the batrer just be[ore you fry. Dip and fry abour 3-4 at a rime

.: cook for about one minute on each side, or until golden and crisp. -:rn on kitchen paper towels and sprinkle with sa1t.

lbss the salad

with a little of the three-nustard vinaigrette and place in

".rnds in the centre of each dinner plate. Trickle the remainder of the -...ing in circles around the salad then arrange the beignets on the sauce
--,;-^ .)\\ ^^-L sefvlng. lllS rL--^ LllrCC f^* lOr CAr'n

STARTERS

63

-.f
* r
d4

erflne ot foie gras with canard confit

i

. ;a56141 occAs|oN TERRINE, IDEAL FoR Cun|srmRs WHEN FAT] 'CKS AND FRESH FOIE GRAS ARE MORE READILY AVAILABLE.WE USE
: r-HER THAN GOOSE FOIE GRAS BECAUSE tT tS LESS EXPENS|VE AND

INGREDIENTS (makes a lkgt2tb 4oz

terrine for 2

8- | 0)
legs

} '- _ABLE FOR A TERRINE. FRESH FOIE GRAS GENERALLY NEEDS TO BE , i:: iN ADVANCE FROM SpECtALtTy BUTCHERS, ALTHOUGH A FEW ..3P5 MAY SOMETIMES HAVE IT IN STOCK. GOOSE FAT CAN BE -- .ROM SPECtALtTy SHOPS, BUT yOU MAy HAVE SOME SAVFD FROM "*: -r cHoppED
NEED

4 medium to large duck

sprigs tlryme

1 sprig rosemary

$ 6A"

250g/8oz/1 cup goose or du&fdt,

2

melted
or

750g/1Ib 10oz whole_fresh duck

A GOOSE. FON NN EXTRA SPECIAL PRESENTATION, GARNISH EACH

pORT WtNE JELLY

loose

;foie gras

OR COLD CHOppED CONSOMME.

1 tablespoon white port 1 tahlespoon Armagnac 1 tablespoon Madeira

TO START THIS DISH A DAY IN ADVANCE.

'- :.r' hairs from the duck iegs then

season and sprinkle

with the

sea

salt and freshly ground black pepper

' .

-,,ed from the thyme and rosemary sprigs. Cover and set aside in j.rrror for 2 hours to a110w the flavours to permeate. preheat the
'i

/ 325"F,/Gas Mark 3.

:irc duck legs in a small roasting pan or cast_iron casserole, then ::ir rhe melted goose or duck fat.Wet a iarge sheet of greaseproof :..i crumple it over and around the duck legs to hold them sub_
over a medium heat and bring the fat ,:i.Transfer the pan carefully ro rhe oven. Cook for 1%-2hours or

' ..:re'ler the fat. 'ri roasting pan or casserole : ::

'

:.e:tt is meltingly tender and starts to fall off the bone. Remove heat and leave the duck to cool in the fat.

.::,r'hile, remove the foie gras from the refrigerator about 1_2 hours :-:cparatlon, to soften, so they are easier to handle. Carefully
lobes of each liver into 2 halves and, using a small sharp knife, . :hc membrane and central vein, making sure you don,t damage the

:lc

-: r'ou like, check for any blood spots and pick these out too.This is '.::rral, but the rerrine will look better when it is sliced. Repeat with

'

::r foie gras.

::..,' remould the foie gras making sure you don,t overhandle them

:. iould turn soft.

.

Lay the foie gras in a deep roasting pan. Season ,.r and pepper and sprinkle over the port, Armagnac and Madeira.

:() nlarinate

for I hour.

.::$*r

{x: $s sg. 3',,,

64 STARTERS

Preheat the oven

to

190"C/375"F,/Gas Mark 5. Roast the marinared

is

foie gras for about 12 minutes or until the liver

just soft and slightly

reduced in size.A word of warning: a lot of glorious, goiden fat

will

seep

out, which you need to save. Gently remove the livers and set aside.

7 Now continue with the confit:

mix with
a

strip the duck meat from the bones then

was cooked alorrg

little of the soft goose or duck fat in which it

seasoning. This helps bind the meat together.

with some

8 Line the base of a lkg/2lb

Cut the foie
gras

loaf tin with a strip of greaseproof paper.

into slices abost 1,cm/'/'tn thick. Layer in the tin along with the duck pieces, pouring a little of the saved foie gras fat between
each layer and finishing

with a layer of foie

gras.

9 Cut a sheet oF foil or greaseproof paper to fit the rop o[ rhe tin exactly. Lay it in position. Place measuring weights or small cans on top.
The pressure should be light but even. Leave the terrine in the refrigera-

firm enough to slice. | 0 Rerrrove the foil or paper. Melt a little of the remaining foie gras fat and spoon some of this on top of the terrine to seal it completely. Chill in the refrigerator until set. | | To unmould the terrine, run a hot knife blade round rhe inside of the
set and

tor overnight or until

loaf tin and invert onto a flat board or platter. Lift away the tin and remove the lining paper.To serve, cut into 2.5cn/1in slices.Accompany the rer-

rine with a crisp green salad and offer slices of warm brioche toast.

STARTERS

65

ached oysters in
-R
SUBLIMELY SIMPLE DISH SERVED

watercress sauce
IN THEIR OWN
HOMEMADE

OYSTERS POACHED

INGREDIENTS (for 2)
200m1/7fl oz/'.4 cup FishWloutt (page 14)
2 0 0g

S iHEN
.r-ELLE.

WITH

WATERCRESS VELOUTE

AND

lr vou ooN'r

HAVE TrME

To

MAKE

youR owN

TAGLTATELLE,

7 o

homemade Thgliatelle (page

29

) or ;fresh

:^\

SUBSTITUTE FRESH READY.MADE.

ready-made

300g/l0ozJresh watercress (about 6

bunches)

l|-i. I ths FishVelout6

and homemade Tagliatelle, if using, and set aside. and discard, then wash the leaves

10;fresh oysters

lc r :he thick stalks o{f the watercress , -'r rhree changes of cold water.
tb,:.i.r

3-4

tablespoons rock salt, to serue

259/1oz/% stick unsalted butter 10 tiny sprigs cheruil

sea

pan of salted water to the boil and blanch the watercress for 3-

:r-:sr. then drain and squeeze lightly

in a cloth to

dry.

salt and Jreshly ground black pepper

l* r :ood processor or liquidizer, blend the watercress to a smooth, fine : :jJing a little of the FishVelout6 to loosen the mixture if necessary. ?:i the FishVelout6 to the boil then stir in the watercress pur6e. Pass
";:-s through
a sieve, rubbing

with the back of

a ladle, then set aside.

iil;.-h the

homemade Tagliatelle

in boiling salted water for

barely

:-::e then drain. Plunge into very cold water to refresh and drain .:eps 9-10, page 28). If using ready-made, follow the pack instrucrst aside.
t

t,:::
L,

rhe oysters (page 36), reserving their juices and tipping these into

lrn. Discard the flat shells. Scrub the rounded shells clean and pat r;,.on five small mounds of rock salt onto each plate and sit an oys-

*:--

on each.
a

*.:::car the Tagliatelle in

little water with the butter. Curl

little of

:r:r.rred Tagliatelle into each cleaned oyster shel1. Keep warm. F,;-h the oysters in their own juice cooking for about 2 minutes then
:r s rhem from the juice

with

a siotted spoon and place on the pasta.

!(:hcat the

sauce

until just boiling, check the seasoning and spoon

::-

o\-sters. Garnish

with the chervil sprigs and serve.

STARTEl{S 67

Mosaic of rabbit with cabbage and cdpes

"::T
"
IS HIGHLY PRIZED

IN

FNNruCE BUT STILL REGARDEDWITH SOME DIS-

INGREDIENTS (for 8- l0) FORTHE CONFIT:

1 rabbit, weighin.g about 1kg/2lb about 800g/1lb 12oz goosefat or concentratcd butter

'.

tN GRenr BnTntNANDTHE

USA-A

PtrY BEcAUSE lr lsA DEllclous,

TERRINE ls -- t'4EAT THAT ts EASy ro PREPARE : CF THE MOST POPULAR STARTERS AT THE AUAENCINT. SENVE WITU N ,::\ SALAD AND GLAZE EACH SLICE WITH A LITTLE TRUFFLE-FLAVOURED ,: OIL. FOR TgC RABBIT, BUY A WHOLE, SMALL, DOMESTICATED ONE'
,

AND cooK.Tuls pRrrrv

2 bay

leaues

1 sprig thyme

, :RING
J

IN ADVANCE FROM YOUR BUTCHER IF NECESSARY.YOU CNN NTSO

10 whole coriander

seeds

'T

THIS RECIPE BY SUBSTITUTING

GOOD-QUALITY FREE-RANGE

10 black peppercorns, crushed

7 star dmse

' :<rN.You wtLL NEED To srART THE MosAtc ::rrt make the rabbit

A DAY oR so lN ADVANcE.

2
confi.t: preheat the oven

tablespoons coarse sea salt

to

180"C/350"F/
FOR THE TERRINE:

\lark 4.Joint the rabbit by cutting offthe legs and saddle; there is no : to keep tl-re rib cage or neck, which can be discarded. .rce in a ovenproof casserole. Heat the goose fat to boiling point

1.7 litres/3 pints/7% cups Brown Chicken Stock

(pdge 18) about 859/3oz/31 stick butttr
1

'

l,our

it

over the rabbit. Add the bay leaves, thyme, coriander

seeds,

:.crcorns, star anise and salt.

"1:rke sure the rabbit is completely submerged beneath the fat.
pape

50g/ 5oz young cdbbage leaues, finely shredded

e.g. cipes,

Cut out

150g/5oz m'ixed wild mushrooms

shiitdkes or oysters, sliced
'12 new potatocs, preferably long

.'ct of greaseproof

(r've

call this a cartouthe) to

fit the top of thc

6

.:role exactly. Place this on top of the fat so that the meat is held
..rrh the

in

shape, stubbed

frt and prevented from brorvning and overcooking. If you wet

leaues gelatin.e 1s$11.;poons

or 4 teaspoons gelatine crystals

raper it

will be easier to mould.

in
t1-re

rltoppcd rlttvcs
de

t.ook in the oven for about 12 hours or until the meat is very tender.
.'.e to cool

250g/9oz pdtt
sea

foie

grds,

cut into long strips

fat then remove, scrape off excess fat, herbs and spices,

salt and Jreshly grottnd bldck pepper

.: remove the meat fi-om the bones

in large

pieces. Make sure the meat

:::e of fat, veins and sinews. If you 1ike, strain the fat and store it in the ''rserrtor for further use. It will keep for a good few months.
i:or the terrine, boil the Brown Chicken Stock until reduced by about
..r-to concentrate the flavour. Set 250m1/9fl oz/1 cttp aside in a saucepan

: the potatoes.
Heat half the butter in a frying pan and saut6 the cabbage quickly until

.t rvilted. Remove witl-r a slotted spoon. Add the remairring butter

and

;'i":: ::, :::

.,:-'i:: -iii"
r:,:
a::

,:: ',::

:ij
-::l

,:: ,

:i' .,

,::i

i::,.,i:

il,t-:i.
::

::: t::'

68 STARTERS

saut6 the mushrooms

until cooked; drain and set

aside. Season both

STORING RABBIT CONFIT

AFTER MAKING THts REctpE

vegetables well and leave to coo1.

you wtLL

HAVE

ABoUT

HALF THE
BE

7 Cook the potatoes in the reserved

stock until just render

as

about

10

QUANTITY OF RABBIT CONFIT LEFT OVER WHICH CAN usED

minutes. (At the restaurant, we 'turn' these before cooking, that is, we cut them into equal*size barrel shapes; but this is optional. As long the pota-

To

MAKE ANoTHER TERRTNE LATER.

To

pntpene

ttls
FAT

FOR STORAGE, PLACE IN

BOWL, REHEAT THE GOOSE

toes are 1ong, rather than round, and roughly the sarne size

about

AND POUR OVER ENOUGH TO

COVER THE COOKED MEAT.

5cn/2in - the terrine will look good.) Drain, set aside and cool. 8 Bring the remaining 500m1/18fl oz/2 crps of Brown Chicken Stock to boiling point. Meanwhile, if using leaf gelatine, soak the leaves in icecold r,vater for at least 5 minutes or until softened, then squeeze out the
water..W'hen the stock has boiled, stir

Crrrr uNttL sET THEN

covER

wtrH cLtNG

FILM.THE

coN-

FIT SHOULD KEEP FRESH FOR

A GOOD

MONTH, AS LONG AS
FAT.

THE I.1EAT HAS BEEN COMPLETELY COVERED IN THE

in the leaf gelatine until dissolved. If using geiatine crystals, sprinkle directly into the just-boiled stock, stlrring briskly until clear. Mix the chives into the stock, then set aside to cool
pre[erably over ice

- srirring Fronr rinre to tinre unril rhe mixture

just

starts to thicken.

9 Using a 7.I litre/2 pint/5 cup loaf tin, pour a little of the setting jelly in the base, and sprinkle in a little of the cabbage and mushrooms. Lay pieces of rabbit lengthways down the tin, placing potatoes and strips
of foie gras in between. Pour over well distributed.
l some.1el1y,

making sure the chives

are

Add further layers of cabbage and mushrooms, then jelly, rabbit, pota-

toes, foie gras and more je1ly, pressing the food down beneath the layers
3el1y.

of

Repeat the layering process finishing rvith cabbage and mushrooms

and leaving a space of about 2cn/%in ar rhe rop (you

will nor use all the

rabbit). Pour over more jelly ensuring

it

completely covers the food.Tap

the tin lightly on the work surface to release any air bubbles. Place carefu1ly in the refrigerator and leave overnight or until the terrine is set and

firm enough to
|

slice.

To turn out the terrine, dip a palette knife in boiling warer and run

it

around the insides of the tin to loosen. Dip the base into a bowl of vcry

hot water and count to 10. Invert the mould onto a flat board or platter
and give

it a good shake.The terrine should slip out, but.if it

does not, dip

the tin again for 10 seconds and repeat the process with

a hot palette knife.

For ncat slices. cur wirh an elccrric carving kni[e. or a long serrared knife.

STAI{TERS

69

I casted rabbit salad with chicory e la crdme

.:: GENERALLY FAR TOO CAUTIOUS ABOUT USING RABBIT. IT 'S . :--. ]T TENDS TO BE IN A CASSEROLE, MAYBE EVEN n TeRnIrue, BuT - .:CIPE FOR A SALAD OT NNEEIT! THC NNES IS SERVED WARM AND . r'.:D By SAUTEED wtLD t4usHRooMs, SALAD LEAVES AND LtcHT--a-\zED cHtcoRy. lr you rtNo tr DtFFIcULT To BUy RABBIT LEGs,
*]TE
RABBIT

INGREDIENTS (for 4)

3
'1

tablespoons Basic Salad Vinaigrettc tablespoon oliue oil

(pa.qe

19)

100g/ 3%oz / 1 stick hutte r

4 medium to ldrge rabbit 4 large heads chicory

legs

AND

FREEZE

THE SADDLE FOR USE LATER.

2
- ,.lv the Basic SaladVinaigrette and set aside.

teaspoons salt teaspoons sugdr

. :he oven to 200"C/400'F/Gas Mark 6. Heat the oil in a cast'.

200m1/7fl
3 009 /'1

oz/tl

cup double credrn

rth a knob of the butter. Saut6 the rabbit legs until lightly

0oz wild mushrooms

..1 over.

200,9/7oz Mixed Sdlad Leaues (pdge 54)

.feut sprigs cheruil
sea

:ire legs l,vith a butter paper or butterecl greaseproof paper then

' j
.

o\-en for about 5 minutes or until jr-rst cooked.

salt and.frcshly ground black pepper

tl'orn the oven and allorv to rest for 5 minutes. Cut each leg

::'.,r,rqh the

joint, then remove the meat from the bones and cut it

.:,rns. Toss r,vith one-third

.:

of the Basic SaladVinaigrette;

season

lc.

' .: heads of chicory into strips, from top to bottom. Heat a quar. r'cunining butter in a pan and lightly saur6 the strips, sprinkiing .rlt and sugar. to soften, after about 3 minutes, remove them . ',..rn and n'ipe it out with a kitchen paper tor,vel. Return the pan
:r
rl-re

strips start

:-'.rt and pour

in the

cream.

: rhe cream to the boil, return the chicory strips to the pan and ' : rbout one minute until reduced dor,vn by about ha1f. Set aside. . the mushrooms in fhe renrainjng butter for about 5 minutes ::. -just softened. Remove and toss in another third of the
rrg vinaigrette.
'tsrr'1or

to serving, prepare the Mixed Salad Leaves, dress thern light-

:. rhe last of the Basic SaladVinaigrette and place in a mound in the

trf each plate. Arrange the chicory strips around the

ooms. Garnish

sa1ad.

Spoon

.:.hlooms on top of the chicory and the rabbit pieces on top of the

with delicate snrir's of chervil .lnd serve at once.

Tian of tomatoes with vegetables e la Grecque

14ouros OF I4ARINATED
FRESH TOMATOES FILLED

WITH AUSENCINT CNVINR

INGREDIENTS (for 2)
%

ANDsERVEDwITHTENDERBABYVEGETABLESLIGHTLYINFUSEDWITH
SAFFRON COURSE

x quantity Aubergine Cauiar

red

(page 1011

AND CORIANDER BALSAMIC

SUMMER.

DRESSING. EXCTITTNT AS

FIRST

6 large dark
200m1/7Jl

plum

tomatoes

IN

oz/l

cup oliue oil

teaspoons balsamit uin.egar

I 2 3 4

Have readl' the Aubergine Caviar and set asideSkin rhe romatoes by dipping briefly in boiling water so that the skrns

1 teaspoon each of chopped bdsil, cheruil,

coriander and chive:

slip otT easily. Cut each into qllarters and cliscard the seeds'

2 small seruings Mixed Salad Leaues (page 51)

sea

season and marinare

in 3

tablespoons

of the oi1 together with

salt dnd -fl'eshly ground black peppet

1 teaspoon of the balsan'ric vinegar and half the herbs, for about 2 hours. lrrepare all the vegetables by peeling or trimrning. Bring the renr:rinder' of the oil and vinegar to the boil, then add all the baby vegetables, the FOR THE VEGETABLE GARNISH:

baby -fcrtnel btilbs,

or 1 ntedium one cut

remaining herbs, and the crushed coriander seeds and safTron strands. Remove {r-ont the heat and leave to infuse, turnir}g oncc or trvice. r.rntil
coo1.

into qudrters

Chill for at least 30 minutes before serving.

I I

bab1, ottittns

baby carrots
leeks,

Drain the tottratoes, reserving the marinacle. Use the tonatoes to lirre the base and sides of tr,vo ramekins. Spoon in tlie Aubergine oaviar, press-

4 bdby

or 1 medium one slit lenpthu'als

into Jbur

ing it down firnrly, then

chi11

for about 30 minutes to

a11or'v

it to settle.

Tb serve, unmould a tian into the centre of each plate ancl spoon over

I I

babl'

t11Y11iPt

asparagus trps
seeds,

the reserved tolrato marinade to glaze. Prepare the Mixed Salad Le:rves and place small n.rounds on top. Drain the baby vegetables from therr
marinade, arrange them around each tian tl'ren trickle over a little of the marinade to garnish.

6 cttriander
1 good

tushed

pinth sffi'on strdnds

STARTERS 7I

Salad
I
]

of spring vegetables with lemon vinaigrette

A
HOST OF YOUNG'

VPLE, LIGHT SALAD STARTER CONTAINING

INGREDIENTS (for 2)
'y'

..GETABLES, BLANCHED AND TOSSED IN

LIVELY LEMON AND SALAD ls

x quantity

Basic SalddVinaigrette (page 19)

..:

cRETTE.

Tue srcRrr oF THts REFRESHING

ro

ALLow

juice of 7 lemon
12 coriander seeds, uushed

1 I'.:HED

COOKED VEGETABLES TO COOL IN THE DRESSING. IT SOTVE'

":
!

sABY VEGETABLES ARE DIFFICULT

..GEST YOU

TO GET HOLD OF

BUY

2 star

anise

CAN FIND AND PEEL OFF A FEW LAYERS' OR CUT THEM

1 teaspoon each oJ thopped basil, cheruil and chiues 100g/3%oz baby carrots 100g/3%oz baby leeks

-:.SIZED CHUNKS,

'.

rhc Basic SaladVinaigrette and mix in the lemon juice, spices

herbs. Set aside.

100g/3%oz baby turnips

1

' :::c

009 / 3%oz young dspdragus

-. .rll the vegetables apart from the Mixed Salad Leaves, leaving : ,ir and lighdy peeling or scrubbing as necessary. Bring a large
::.1 rvater to the boil. Blanch ail the vegetables together for just
'::. rinring fror-n when the water returns

1009/ j%oz baby _fennel bulbs

150g/5oz Mixed Salad Leaves (page 54)

sea

salt and freshly ground black pepper

to the boii.You may find

Season

.: ro do in

a blanching basket.

.rnd immediately toss

:' Iiked. Leave

in the

Basic Salad Vinaigrette.

to cool completely, stirring the vegetables gently

:rr to tilne so that they absorb the flavourings evenly.

:. cool, remove the vegetables from the dressing using a slotted

,i.

-:'erve the dressing.

. ,:c the Mixed Salad Leaves and lightly dress with a little of the
.: \'inaigrette. Arrange the vegetables prettily around the salad.
,iappe (coat)
. .r'rd

with any remaining

ove

dressing so that everything

rbs.

:prinkle

r the remaining

he

72 STARTERS

Fillets of sardine and red mullet

lN rHe suMMER,wE
sERVE

THls LIGHT DlsH oF RED MULLET AND SARDINES

INGREDIENTS (for 4)
200m1/7J1 oz/% cup Wgetable Nage (page 13) at

wtTH A cOURr-gourLLoN oR vectrnglE NncE sluce nruo Tolnro CoNcnssr. Fon n MAIN couRsE, wE sERVE THls wlrH A wARM Tovnro nruo BnstL Tnnr (nnce 75), nru totn I rtRsr CAME AcRoss tNPnnts.loenllv,UsEsMALLREDMULLETSFoRTH|SDIsH'soTHEY sucH MATCH THE sARDINEs lN slzE. You wtll- NEED To ALLow oNE
AND CUT MULLET PER PERSON. AITTNNNTIVCLY, BUY TWO LARGER MULLETS EACH INTO

Court-bouillon (Page 1 6)

1 tablespoonsTomdto Concasse (page 97)

4 small red mullets, scaled, gutted and filleted, or

larQe ones each cut

into

fllets

4.fresh sardines, gutted and -filleted

TIIITTS. YOUR TISHI"IONGER SHOULD BE ABLE TO SCALE

8 basil

leaues

AND

FILLET THEM FOR YOU.

2-3

teaspoons oliue oil

sea salt and Jreshly ground black pepper

Have ready the Vegetable Nage to neaten with

or Court-bouillon and the Tomato

a small sharp

Concasse; set aside.

2 Trim the fish fillets

season well.

knife then pull out any

and

pin bones using tweezers. Place in a shallow pan or deep frying pan

Pour over the Vegetable Nage or Court-bouillon, bring up to the boil then leave the mullets and sardines to cool down' while stil1 in the liquid'

co1d, remove the fish carefully and chill. Strain the vegetable Nage or court-bouillon then add half the basil leaves and leave to infuse.

4 when

Chop the remaining basil leaves into fine julienne'

5 Mix the Tomato Concasse into the flavoured

Court-bouillon.

Vegetable Nage

or

the

To serve, arrange the mullets and sardines in the centre of chilied plates. the Strain thevegetable Nage or Court-bouillon through a sieve, reserving Tomato concasse, and use to glaze the fish. Sprinkle the Tomato concasse and julienne of basil all around. Finally, drizzle over the olive oi.l.

s s 3,,'*X g i:

STARTERS

75

Tomato and basil tarts

; .LAVOUR AND VERY VERSATILE, THESE LIGHT, CRISB TARTS PILED ." -- JUICY TOMATO SLTCES AND DRTZZLED WtTH BASTL-FLAVOURED *'. 3E SERVED AS A FIRST COURSE OR VEGETABLE ACCOMPANIMENT. 1:i ESPECTALLY GOOD SERVED Wtrg FtLlerS Or SnROtUr nUO ReO ,' 'IAGE 72).
-;*htly floured board,
ro11

INGREDIENTS (for 4) 200g/7oz

/
homemade Puff Pastry (page 25)
tomatoes

5009/1lb 2oz plump ripe

2 59
1

oz

/% cup basil

leaues, cut into Jine

julienne strips
100m1/3%oz/% cup oliue oil

out the Puff Pastry to a thickness of

7 tablespoon balsamic uinegar

sea

:::::r'Zin. Cut out four 1.0crn/4in circles, prick them with a fork

salt and freshly ground black pepper

' i :o rest in the refrigerator for 20 minutes. ' r: rhe oven to 220"C/425"F,/Gas Mark T.Place

the pastry circles

.. :,g sheet and place another baking sheet on top. Bake

for 5 min-

:::rove the top baking sheet. turn the discs over using a palette
'

':-rce the top sheet and bake for

a further 5 minutes.

'.'. the top sheet completely and bake the circles once again until

' :olden colour. Remove and reduce the oven temperature to

:-5"F/Gas Mark
5.

::re tomatoes by dipping them briefly into boiling water then slip::' :he skins. IJsing a sharp knife, cut into very
:::.1toes

thin
slices,

slices. Arrange

on each tart rn a circle of overlapping

building

each

.i high mound in the centre. Season we1l.

'.::sie half of the basil over the tarts and drtzzl.e over half the oi1. -:: :o the oven and bake for a further 6-7 minutes, glazing every 2

',.

rvith a little more of the oil. Remove from the oven and drizzle

.:-rrning

oil over the tarts along with the

balsamic vinegar and the

: ::e basil. Serve warm.

itrj-ii ,ifi;i ,ti' 4rr

p,i;i

;=

;i:

:
-''

..'

-!.

i,

lrtt, most o;f

all

about -fresh pasta and risotto

is the reward you receiue

and
the

'ii,r/ to the effort you haue inuested, You can change your rauioli
,:i-fillings and risotto Jlavourings as you do your clothes, according to

tttd to your mood.You willfind the bdsic method;for mdking Pasta Dough
ISrtilding Blocks chapter (page 27).

Rauioli and tortellini are uery personal. The secret is to use a uery thin
,,'tt,qh

with a moist, chunky;filing that should be just cooked in the centre

ttto{e. The technique may need

a little practice as the edges must be

.'rttly utell sealed to preuent any water from penetrating the pasta coating

.o

oking and ruining

the

filling.

With risotto, you must use an authentic t,ound-grained ltalian risotto rice that

ro d silky credminess yet retains a;firm al dente bite. Carnaroli, Arborio

','t

ttlone IJano grains are what we pre;fer. Risotto cdn be flauowred with
cheese,

rrpone

freshly grated Parmesan cheese and just a hint of Shallot

:t-it (page 94): nothing too strong or ouerpowering.

78 I'ASTA AND RISOTTO

Ravioli of
A
RATHER

lo bste

r with its own vtnatgrette

ao

veRy spEclAL LTGHT MEAL AND AN TDEAL usE FoR LoBsrERs wtrH

INGREDIENTS (for 4)

DAMAGED CLAWS, SINCE THE RECIPE REQUIRES ONLY THE LOBSTER MEAT

FORTHE RAVIOLI: 2 liue baby lobsters,

500g/1lb 2oz
100g/3%oz Jresh salmon -fillet
% teaspoon each chopped fresh basil, tdrrdgon each weighing about

THAN

pERFEcr pRESENTATIoN

tN THE steLL. Tlr

LoBsrER

MEAT, COMBINED

WITH SALMON AND

HERBS, FORI,lS THE FILLING FOR THE

RAVIoLr. Tue

se RnvroLt cAN

BE AssEMBLED

AND BLANcHED tN ADVANcE,

THEN SET ASIDE, TO BE FINISHED IUST BEFORE SERVING.

and cheruil

To kill the lobsters, lay them stomach downwards on a board, then pierce

about %

x quantity (200g/7oz)

homemade

firm1y through the cross marks on their skulls with the tip of a heavy, sharp knife. Remove the claws, slit the bodies in half lengthways and clean rhe
insides, removing the entrails and coral. Blanch the body tails and claws in

Pasta Dough (page 27)

sea

salt and;freshly ground black pepper

boiling water for 15

seconds; this helps release

the meat from the

a tea

shell.

FOR THE VEGETABLE GARNISH:

7 small Sauoy cabbage

Drain, remove the meat from the bodies and claws, then dry with

towel

or kitchen paper towel. Chop into fine dice and place in rhe refrigerator.

50g/2oz/%

stick butter

2 ln 3

a food processor, blend the salmon filiet to a smooth pur6e. Mix

100g/3%oz carrots

together the pur6e, the diced lobster meat, the herbs and some seasonirrg.

To complete the ravioli fil1ing, divide the mixrure inro 8 neat, round

FOR THE VINAIGRETTE:

balls,

rolling them with hands that

are completely dry.This may be a

little

200 ml/7J1 oz/',4 5

cup Langoustine Stock or

sticky. but

it

is csrential not to get any moisture in rhe filling. Place rhe

Lobster Stock (page 15)

tablespoons oliue oil

balls on a plate and chill to firm.

For the ravioli,

ro11

out the

Pasta

Dough thinly; then using a l)crn/+n

% teaspoon each chopped basil, tawagon

cutter, stamp out 16 circles and

fill them wirh the chilled balls ro make 8

chill until required.
Peel the car-

and cheruil

fil1ed ravioli (steps 1-4, page 29). Blanch and refresh the ravioli (steps 910, page 28), Drain well, cover and

Meanwhile, prepare the vegetable garnish: cur rhe cabbage into fine

shreds and saut6

in a pan with half the butter until just wilted.

rots then cut into fine julienne strips. Saut6 these separately in the remaln-

ing butter until wilted and just softened, and keep warm.

6 7

For the vinaigrette, boii the Langoustine or Lobster Stock until reduced

by about two-thirds. Add the oil and the herbs, rhen ser aside to infuse.

prior to serving, reheat the ravioli in boiling warer for 2 minures then drain. Place a mound of the cabbage in the centre of each warmed
Just

plate.Top each with a ravioli and arrange thejulienne ofcarrot on top of

each ravioli. Spoon the vinaigrette over and around the ravioli then serve.

X$3:

t
*.

$l$

:x

,,'.:f

{: :i''
,,i.,

80 PASTA AND RISOTTO

Ravioli of goat's cheese with artichoke bouillon

Go,qr's cHEEsE,
CHEESE, MAKES

BLENDED

wtrH A

sMALL AMoUNT

oF

MASCAReoNE

INGREDIENTS (for 6)

A TANGY, LIGHT FILLING FOR RAVIOLI

AN IDEAL GARNISH

FORTHE RAVIOLI:
about %
Pasta

PARTNER FOR

CLEAR BROTH OR BOUILLON

OF

GLOBE ARTICHOKES,

x quantity (3009/10%oz)
Dough (page 27)
so-ft

homemade

sopHtslcATED yET srMpLE. BorH GARNTsH AND BoutLLoN cAN BE MADE

AND REHEATED JUsr pRtoR To SERVTNG. Follow THE lNsrRucloNs FoR MAKTNG RAVtoLt oN pAGE 79, ew tNsrEAD oF sHAptNG THE FtLLING tNTo BALLS, ptpE THE CREAMED cont's cHEESE

rN

ADVANcE

200g/7oz 2

godr's cheese e.g. crorrin

tablespoons mascarpone cheese

1 egg yolk beaten with a pinch o;f salt and

ONTO EACH PASTA DISC.

teaspoons water

I 2

Have ready the Pasta Dough and Chicken Stock orVegetable Nage, and

FORTHE BOUILLON:
1 litre/1%pints/4%

set both aside.

ups Chicken

Stock (page 18)

For the ravioli, roll out the Pasta Dough (steps 1-2, page 29) then stamp 4

or Vegetable Nage (page 13)

large globe artichokes

out 72 circles using a 10crn/1in cutter. For the ravioli fi1ling, mash the
goat's cheese

with a wooden spoon to soften, then beat in the mascarpone cheese until smooth. Place in a piping bag fitted with a plain lcn/lin

juice of % lemon

tablespoons oliue oil

nozzl.e tnd pipe the mixture onto 6 of the pasta discs. Finish making the

5 shallots, sliced

ravioli according to the instructions on page 29, using rhe beaten egg wash to
seal.

12 black peppercorns

Blanch (steps 9-10, page 28) and plunge into iced water. Set

aside.

tdblespoons

dry whire winc

For the bouilion, prepare the artichokes

in the same way

as

for the

1 teaspoon each of chopped tarragon, basil and

chiues sea

Velout6 ofArtichokes rvith Foie Gras (step 2,page 17).

4 Heat the oil in a

artichoke slices

the shallots and drained along with the peppercorns until the vegetables are
saucepan and saut6

salt and;freshly ground white pepper

nicely browned and caramelized, about 10 minutes.

Deglaze the pan with the wine then add the stock. Bring to the boil

then simmer for about 15 minutes. Remove from the heat and leave the
vegetables to infuse for 30 nrinutes.

Line a colander with damp muslin or a clean tea towel. Pour the bouilare

lon through twice, or until you have a clear broth. Set aside until you
ready to serve.

To serve, return the bouillon to the boil, stir in the chopped herbs and

check the seasoning. Add the reserved ravioli and simmer very gently to
reheat. Serve immediatelv.

t
I

I
I

t
!

PASTA

AND RISOTTO

8I

Tagliate I le

with truffles
INGREDIENTS (for 4)
2 5 0g /

3,r'ptt nNo suBLtME - WHEN FRESH TRUFFLEs ARE tN sEASoN THERE ,I ."TTLE TO BEAT THEIR EXQUISITE FLAVOUR AND THEIR GLORIOUS PARTrcasHtp

9oz homemade Thgliatelle (page 2 9)

wtrH

FRESH

pnsrn. lN THE RESTAURANT,wE

LtKE

To

usE TRUFFLES

or

fresh ready-made

}CAJEO INTO THE THINNEST SLICES, THEN SCATTERED ON TOP OF A

150m1/% pint/% cup Wgetable Nage (page 13) or

uegetable cooking water

Tr!F. IN THIS CASE

HOMEMADE TICIINTCLLT ACCOMPANIED BY

WILD

T:'{ROOM

SAUCE.

YOU

ruETO ONLY ONE SMALL TRUFFLE OF ABOUT

100m1/31/'fl oz/% cup double cream

ULSAcM- loz

roR THrs DtsH.

lr woulo

MAKE

A DtvlNE

sTARTER.

100g/3%oz wild mushrooms, sliced

tablespoons

trffie oil trffie

:'YING

FRESH TRUFFLES

2 0- 3 0g

?{

/%- 1 oz fresh

rnurrle sEAsoN srARTs tN Lnre OcroeeR AND LASTS uruttL MnRcH. ?r-rrtrs ARE vERy EXpENStvE ARouND CHRtstwns,wHEN DEMAND ts HtcH tN
AND
pRtcES

sea

salt and Jreshly ground black pepper

hr.ice,
N.

wtLL

REFLECT

tuts. Tue BEsr IME FoR BUytNG ts

tN

lr,.l.leRy eNo

FreRunRy. lru

tHe nestnuRANT wE

usE THE BLACK TRUFFLE FRoM

PERIGoRD REGIoN

IN soUTH-wEsr FRI.Nce FoR

sAUcEs AND souPs,

@NG

SMALL SHAVTNGS AS

A GARNTSH,AS ON OUR CnppUCCrNO SOUeS (enCeS

ti.35);aNo wE

usE THE wHrrE TRUFFLE FRoM

ALen rN lrnlv ron pAsrA, sALADs

TRUFFLE sHAVERS ARE

hc

FoR vARrous FoRMs

oF GARNtSH. SprcrnlLy DEstcNED

{EE*:- FoR pRoDUctNc TRANSpARENT,wAFER-THIN

st_tces. lru pLAcE

oF oNE oF

N{SE.YOU MIGHT

TRY

A MANDOLIN

SLICER OR A VERY SHARP KNIFE BUT, QUITE

\6TLY,
fi!.tsTlNc

HAVING INVESTED IN A TRUFFLE, YOU MAY FIND IT WORTHWHILE

lN

PROPER TRUFFLE SHAVER.

ft/HFTHER BLACK

oRwHtrE,A

PERFECTTRUFFLE
IS,

sHouLD

BE

HtcHLy

PERFUMED

lho.

GENERALLY,

THE SMALLER IT

THE MORE INTENSE ITS GLORIOUS SCENT,

BE BLEMTSH-FREE AND UNCORED. FtNnllv, BE wARNED - A GooD TRUFFLE ts EXpENstvE, BUT A LtrrLE GoEs r .oNG wly. ONce pURCHASED, sroRE youR TRUFFLE FoR up ro neour 3 nxs rN A BAG oF Rtsorro RtcE tN THE REFRtcERnroR. Nor oNLy DoEs tr rp rHE TRUFFLE AT lrs BEsl tr ALso IMpARTS A HEAVENLy scENT To rur Rrce! THE TRUFFLE FOR WORMS

rtCx

lT SHOULD

I Cook homemade Tagliatelie briefly in boiling lightly salted water for a: nlore than 1 minute. Cook ready-made tagliatelle according to the s"ai instructions. Drain, then toss in the Vegetable Nage or vegetable il.::r. and the cream. Season and keep warm in the pan. t Gently fry the sliced mushrooms in the truflle oil until just tender,
rr..'ut 2-3 minutes, stirring well.

.\rrange the pasta on warmed plates, add the mushrooms and grate or
shave over the truffle. Serve immediately.

i:'-:h'

PASTA AND RISOTTO

83

crtellini of ratatouille with sauce

J..
HAS ALL THE PUNCHY FLAVOUR YOU WOULD EXPECT FROM
ITS

gazPacho

INGREDIENTS (for 4)
% head teleriac
ue.ge

:::

ANEAN INGREDIENTS

PEPPERS, COURGETTES' AUBERGINES' OLIVES

- .E orl. THe Pnsrn Doucu,

RATAToUILLE

AND sAUcE GAZPAcHo

FOR SERVING'

table oil for.frying

.. BE MADE IN ADVANCE, THEN BROUGHT TOGETHER :- WITH A FLOURISH OF DEEP-FRIED CELERIAC SHREDS.
::rclv the
Pasta

Mixed Salad Leat,es (page 54)

1 tablespoonTdpuade (page 19) 1 tablespoon oliue oil

Dough and the Tomato Concasse, and set aside' about 5 tninutes until just cooked. Drain and

sea

salt and _freshly ground hla& pepper

:ke the tortelloni fil1ing, saut6 the diced peppers' courgette and

::. in the oil for

.

FORTHE TORTELLINI:
%

.irr'. either in a large piece of muslin or a clean tea towel. rhe mixture to coo1, then place in a bowl and nrix in the Tomato
Season, then shape

x quantity (1259/15o2)
Dough (page 27)

homemade Pasta

'..rnd the sliced basil.

:trnr up.
.

into 24 small ba1ls and

a

tablespoottsTomato Cttncasse (page 97)

859/ 3oz red pepper, uery Jinely diced

ir rhe spinach until just wilted, then drain and pat dry gently on
,rh. keeping the leaves whole

859/3oz courgette, uery Jinely

diced

if

possible. Spoon the pur6ecl olives

85,g/3oz aubergine, uery -flnely diced

.l
.

r:rtatouille bai1, and wrap each lightly in a spinach leaf. Set aside'
ro11

tablespoons oliue oil

leaJ, sliced

..cnrble the tortellini,

out the
each

Pasta

l)or'rgh. L-Ising a gcnr/3''in

1 large basil
strips

into,fine julienne

.rr ollt 2'l circles, then

.Lrr'1ins

fill

with

a spinach-rvrapped ba1l, fbldset

into

tortellini shape (steps 1-8, page 28). Blanch and to

a pur6e

200g/7oz young spinach

leaves

::ril required (steps 9-10, Page 28).

-.rke the sauce gazpacho, blend the cherry tomatoes

50g/2oz /% cup pitted black oliues, pur[ed

in

:.).cssor or liquidizer, then rub through a sieve set over a saucepan'

FORTHE SAUCE GAZPACHO:

500g/1lb 2oz/4 cups ripe cherry
tomdtoes

r.:rrh'to reduce by half.Add the creatn plus the diced butter and the :'rc again and rub through the sieve a second tinre. Season to taste
:
-

2
2

tablespoon double cream

.r:ide.

50g/2oz/% sti& butter, diced

- rl-re celeriac and cut into fine julienne strips. Heat tbout

2cnt/ltn

tablespoons oliue oil

::t.rble oi1 in a deep saut6 pan, then fry the celeriac until golden:. .rnd crisp. l)rain r'veil.
.c'rve, prepare the

Mixed

Salad Leaves and arratlge

in the centre of

.:ving

tortellini again for about 2 minutes tl.ren .irrd arrange around the sa1ad. Mix the Tapenade with the t:rblespoon . Finish the sauce gazpacho by rvarr-ning it through thetr spoot'r
dishes. Blanch the

'.rnd the tortellini, followed by the Tapenacle mixture. Arranse the

:.1c

on top of each tortellini and serve straight

au'ar'.

. g $g. s s& .$'s, st.:

84 PASTA AND RISOTTO

Cannelloni of crab in a shellfish soup

Somr propLe MAy FrND cANNELLoNT A ToucH
RAVIoLr
HARDER

To

MAKE THAN

INGREDIENTS (for 2-4)

sur ltHtNr rr
FTNTSHED

rs

woRTH pERSEVERtNG.THT

rtltttc
A

HERE rs MADE

FORTHE CANNELLONI:
about %

FRoM FRESH, SHREDDED CRAB, HELD ToGETHER WITH

PUREE

OF

RAW

x quantity (200g/7oz)

homemade Pasta

snLyoN.Tue

cANNELLoNT ARE THEN SERVED tN A soup oF scAL-

Dough (page 27) 259/ 1oz fresh, raw salmon, beaten to a purte
100g/ 3%oz Jresh cooked white sab meat

Lops AND oysrERs. SeRve ns A STARTER oR A MAIN couRsE.

Have ready the Pasta Dough and FishVelout6 and set aside. For the cana

1 teaspoon chopped basil

nelloni filling, blend the salmon to

fine pur6e in a food processor. If it

is

50mI/2Jl

oz/'l

cup double cream

easier, use more salmon than required,

then weigh out the required

FORTHE SOUP:
500m1/18J1oz/2 cups FishWloutl (page 14) 4
oysters, remoued

25g/1,oz.The remainder can be frozen.

Using a wooden spoon, cream the salmon pur6e in a bowl to soften.

Check the crab meat for any minute pieces of shell then beat

it into

the

from their

shells,

juites

reserued

salmon along with the basil, cream and seasoning. Spoon into a piping bag

(page 3 5)

with a plain 1.5cm,/%rn nozzle and

set

in the refrigerator to chill.

4 medium

scallops, shelled, trimmed and washed

3 Roll out the pasta

takes or excess frlling.

as

for ravioli (page 29), then cut out four 10 x

2

(page 40), chopped into

jne

dice

15cm/4 x 6in strips. It is worth cutting out a few extra to allow for mis-

teaspoons chopped cheruil

sea sah and Jreshly

ground bla& pepper

4 Bring a large pan of saltedwater

to the boil,blanch the pasta sheets for

10 seconds then immediately plunge into a bowl of ice-cold water. Draln and pat dry on a clean, dry tea towel.

Tear off a sheet of cling

film for each pasta

sheet, place the pasta on

it

then pipe the filling, widthways, just above the centre. Roll up like a cigar

it is nice and tight.Twist then knot the ends of the cling film to seal; this will hold the filling in place. Place in the refrigerator to firm. Repeat with the remaining sheets and filling. 6 When set, blanch the cannelloni, stil1 wrapped in cLing film, in gently
making sure

boiling water for 4 minutes, then drain.

For the soup, bring the Fish Velout6 up to the boil. Add the oysters

the scallops and oyster juices. Heat for another 30 seconds then check the seasoning
and poach them gently
and stir in rhe chervil.
seconds; add

for about 30

8 To serve, unwrap

the cannelloni and discard the cling film. Place one

1n

the centre of each warmed soup bowl, spoon over the oysters and scallops
and pour over the soup. Serve immediately.

PASTA AND RISOTTO

85

Risotto of tomato confit and roasted cePes

trpte,
-i.N
BUT pERFEcr.

Rtsorro

ts

A DEltctously coMFoRTtNG

DtsH AND,

INGREDIENTS (for 3-4 as a main course)

{C^iTRARY TO POPULAR OPINION, IT CAN BE MADE PARTLY IN ADVANCE

FINISHED JUST AS

FORTHE RISOTTO:
500m1/18fl oz/2 cups Chicken Stock (page 18)
orVegetable Nage (page

YoU ARE ABoUT To

SERVE.

pnrrrn To

UsE THE

reNnnolr cRAtN oF Rtsorro RtcE, BUT nN ARgoRro on VtnloNe IIINo wILL oo. RIcr SIMPLY LABELLED ,RIsoTTo', WITHoUT A VARIETY rrfiE, wrLL Nor HAVE THE sAME At DENTE etrr. THr METHoD BELow ts IC'| COOKING RISOTTO IN ADVANCE OF SERVING BUT YOU CAN, OF
COJRSE, SERVE

1j)

large

shallots,fnely chopped

tablespoons oliue oil rice e.g. Carnaroli,

2009/7oz/1 cult risotto

IT

FRESHLY COOKED FOR

A QUICK,

SIMPLE MEAL.

Arborio or Vialone Nano

100m1/372fl oz/% cup dry white wine

I Pur the Chicken Stock orVegetable Nage in a saucepan and bring to *e boil. Set aside. I In a medium saucepan, gently saut6 the shallots in 3 tablespoons of oil irr rbout 2 minutes or until softened. Stir in the rice and cook for a fur{ter f rninutes to seal the rice. t lor in the wine and deglaze the pan. Cook until the liquid has reduced * r svrupy consistency. | \teanwhile, reheat the Chicken Stock orVegetable Nage and bring to
* sntle simmer. Add to the rice one ladleful at a time, stirring well and rriirng more stock only when each addition has been absorbed. Cook rr:al just a touch soft, usually about 10 minutes.

tablespoons mascarpone cheese

cup

259/1oz/%

freshly grated Parmesan

cheese

FORTHE FLAVOURINGS:
250g/9ozTomato Confit (page 98)
2009/7oz Jresh cipes or chestnut uariety of
mushrooms (champignons de Paris)

4 tablespoons oliue oil

7 tablespoon each offinely chopped basil, chiues
and cheruil
sea

salt and freshly ground black pepper

t Srrain the rice through a sieve set over a bowl, reserving the liquid for scr use. Spread the rice out on a tray. When it is cool, cover and set it
r^je until
ready to reheat and serve.

-\leanwhile, slice the cdpes or mushrooms and heat 4 tablespoons of

cir-.-e

oil in

frying pan. Saut6 the cdpes on both

sides

until golden brown,

&.ut

5 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon and set aside some of the

aedv shaped ones for use as a garnish. Reserve the pan juices. | \t'hen ready to serve, have ready the Tomato Confit. Return the rice to ae saucepan wtth 2 tablespoons of its reserved cooking liquid, stirring *cll. Cook for about 3 minutes, adding extra liquid if the rice looks a

icje thick. Quickly mix in the mascarpone and the Parmesan,

stirring

rcal light and creamy. Check the seasoning. I nota in the Tomato Confit, the cdpes (except those reserved for the prnish) and the herbs.

Transfer the risotto to warmed bowls, garnish

with the remaining

cdpes,

ir':zle

over the pan juices of the cdpes and serve straight away.

86 PASTA AND lIISOTTO

Risotto of baby clams

Sovelvrs
spEctALtry FtsHMoNGERs HAVE sMALL, LtcHT BRowN BABy

INGREDIENTS (for 3-4 as a main course)

cLAMS FoR snle. lr

you spor rHEM,THts

ts

AN

TDEAL REctpE

FoR EXpLotr-

FORTHE RISOTTO:
500n1/18J1 oz/2 cups ltish Stock (page 14) plus a little extra;for reheating

ING THEIR SPECIAL QUALITIES.

Check the clams and discard any that are opened. Wash the clams in plenty of cold water, scrubbing the shells rvith a snall brush and changing the water two or three times. Drain. Place the
the wine and the bay leaf.
cian-rs

I 2

Have ready the Fish Stock and set aside.

2 3

large shallots,

jnely

chopped

tablespoons oliue oil plus extra -for seruing rice e.g. Carnaroli,

200g/7oz/1 cup risotto

in a saucepan with

Arborio or Vialonr Nano uarirty

50ml/2fl oz/% cup dry white wine

7 tablespoon mascarpone
cheese

Cover with a tight-fitting lid and cook the clams for 2-3 minures to

steam them open, shaking the pan once or twice. Remove from the heat and discard any clants that have not opened. Drain through a colander set

1 tablespoon freshly grated Parmesan chease

over a bowl, reserving the juices.

FORTHE FLAVOURINGS:
2009/7oz Jresh baby clams

4 5 5

When the clams are cool enough to handle, relnove the meat from the
tslanch the diced peppers briefly

shells and set aside.

50ml/2fl oz/% cup dry white wine

in boiling warer until just

softened,

1 bay lea;f

plunge into ice-cold rvarer and drain.

2
2

tablespoons skinned and

fnely

diced red peppcr

Make the risotto base in the same way as for the llisotto ofTornato
(steps 1-5, page 85) substituting Fish Stock fbr

tablespoons skinned and-finely diced yellow cream, Iightly

pty:

Confit and Roasted Cdpes

50ml/2fl oz/% cup double

whippt:

the Chicken Stock orVegetable Nage.

Cornplete the risotto (step 7, page 85) incorporating the reserved clanr juices before adding the mascarpone and the Parmesan. Mix in the diced
peppers and the whipped cream. Reheat gently and check the seasoning.

1 teaspoon each of thopped chiues and basil .few sprigs cheruil

sea

salt and JreslLly ground black pepper

8 Reheat the
Arrange

in a little stock and add the chives and basil. the risotto in the centre of warmed plates and spoon around
clams
sprigs.
I

the clams. Drtzzle over a little olive oil and garnish with chervil
Serve straight away.

.:'r:
.ri'
iia

1i_.,i'

*-

.ii.t

:iii.il:

-l

,ll l'l

.:::l -,:.

iii:i:

rlri;'

PASTA AND RISOTTO 89

isotto of herbs with roasted baby scallops

-ADE ustNG THE BAslc Rlsorro METHoD As FoR rHe Rtsorro -*-o Counr nruo Ronsteo CEpEs (nnce 85) ustNc Ftss Srocr INGREDIENTS (for 3-4 as a main course)

FORTHE RISOTTO:
500m1/18J1

: cr CutcrrN Srocr oR VecetRgle Nnce, AND uslNc wHoLE

_:] PAN-FRIED SCALLOPS INSTEAD OT CEPCS. TgE SCRLLOPS CAN .-f ED IN THIS DISH IN ONE OF THREE WAYS: EITHER WHOLE' IF BABY ,). SLICED IN HALF, SIUTECO QUICKLY IN OLIVE OIL AND SERVED ' oF THE RISOTTO, ] \ AT THE END.
.
OR DICED AND SAUTEED IN OLIVE OIL THEN

oz/2

cups

Fish

Stock (page 14)

2 3

large shallots,Jinely chopped tablespoons oliue oil plus extra Jor sautbeing and seruing

200g/7oz/1 cup risotto rite

e.g. Carnaroli,

Arborio or Vialone Nano varietY 5}ml/2J1 oz/% cup dry white wine

:e:rdy the Fish Stock and set aside.

1 tablespoon mascarpone

cheese cheese

-: rre using medium scallops either slice

in half for

use as a garnish

1 tablespoon freshly grated Parmesan

:irem so that they can be incorporated into the risotto. Set aside'

..

the risotto base in the same way as for the Risotto of Tomato ,nd Roasted Cdpes (steps 1-5, page 85) substituting Fish Stock for

FORTHE FLAVOURINGS:
30 baby or 8-9 medium
and wdshed (page 10)
scallops, shelled, trimmed

:-ken Stock orVegetable Nage.

: .r pan with a little oi1 then saut6 whole or sliced scallops for 1 . r:rch side, diced scallops for no more than 2 minutes, stirring fre,, : set aside.

50ml/2J1

oz//,

cup double cream,lightly whipped

1 teaspoon each of chopped tarragon, chives and

basil

::rplgls the risotto (step 7,page 85), adding the mascarpone and the

rablespoons balsamit uinegar

Mix in the whipped cream and the fresh herbs. Check the sea*. Ii using diced scallops stir them in at this stage. If using .' or sliced scallops, use as a garnish. Serve the risotto on warmed
...rn.

sea

salt and freshly ground black pepper

l)rizzTe round a
Jr\-e straight away.

little olive oi1 followed by the balsamic vinegar

'

.::i

rii: ;i I

i';:t
i:

;ii il

illr t|,i'

92 VEGETABLES

Ft

bratseo
HAVE

salstTy
FrsH.

.e

WoruorRrul wrrH sEA BAss AND A vARrEry oF RoAsrED

You MAy

INGREDIENTS (for 5-B)

(page 14)

youR GREENGRocER oR MAvBE you 200m1/7fl oz/7,4 cup Fish Stock ALREADv cRow rr rN youR GARDEN.A yucn UNDERVALUED vEGETABLE. 500g/1lb 2oz salsify

To

oRDER sALSrFy FRoM

700m1/1% pints/

cups cold water

I 2

Have ready the Fish Stock and set

aside.
into a

100m1/ j|/zJl oz/% cup milk

Wash the salsify well, then peel, top and tail. Place immediately

juice of 7 lemon
1 tablespoon rock salt

saucepan

with the water, milk, lemon juice and rock salt. 3 Bring to the boil, then remove from the heat and leave the salsify to cool down in the rnilky water. 4 Drain, then cut tnto 4crn/1.I/zin bitons or thick julienne strips. Preheat

50g/2oz/% stickbutter
1

Jresh Bouquet Carni (page 18)

sea

salt and ground white pepper

the oven to 180"C,/350"F,/Gas Mark 4.

Heat the butter in a large, ovenproof frying pan or shallow, cast-iron Add the salsi$r bAtons and fry gently until they start to colour
a

casserole.

little and cararneTize. 6 Pour in the Fish Stock to just cover the
Garni and cook, uncovered, liquid
seasoninE and serve.

salsi$'. Stir, add the Bouquet

in the oven for

L2-L4 nrinutes until the

has evaporated and the salsi$r has become nicely glazed. Check the

Fr.ll.

r5rarseo cn tcory
WHnr LrrrLE BTTTERNESSTHERE

ByrHts INGREDIENTS (for 4-5 as an COOKING PROCESS,WHICH ENSURES A SWEETISH EDGE.THE BRAISING ALSO accompaniment) clVEs THE cHlcoRY HEADS AN ATTRACTIVE, SYRUPY GLAZE. SrRvr wtrs 200m1/ffl oz/'/' cup Chicken Stock (page 18, sALMoN, LAMB oR RABBtr. or Fish Stock (page 14), to deglaze
rs rN RAw cHrcoRy ts ELTMTNATED

8 medium heads chicory

I Have ready the Chicken or Fish Stock and set aside. 2 Trim the chicory ofany bruised outside leaves, then trim the ends and use a small, sharp knife to remove the bitter core at the base of each head. 3 Bring a pan of water to the boil and add the lemon juice, 1 tablespoon of
the sugar and salt to taste. Blanch the chicory for 8-10 minutes and drain well.

3 3

tablespoons Jresh lemon

juice

tablespoons caster sugar

259/1oz/% stick butter

sea

salt andJreshly ground black pepper

4 Arrange the heads in a single layer on a platter, sprinkle with

the remaining
sugar, and season

with salt and pepper. Leave to cool for

about 10 minutes.

VEGETAtsLES

93

- "" \(!ut

L^-r^ ttdrlu). -^--'r-' SqltLly

^-rueeze \!

..n set each head

:..cessary.

aside,

to remove its bitter draining them on kitchen paper

each head

.'-.c frying prn set over.r moderately high hert. melr the burter
:r

hot but not smoking, add the heads and brown evenly for about

:cs on each side.

.'r n.ith a little stock, shaking the pan gently to coat the

heads.

-rlazeo DaDy ontons

-:)E
AS

?t

AN ACCOMPANIMENT FOR ROAST CHICKEN, LAMB OR GRILLED

INGREDIENTS (for 8)
4009/1402 baby onions, ideally siluerskin
159/% oz butter 7 teaspoon oliue oil

THEY ARE AVAILABLE. CHOOSE SILVERSKIN ONIONS AS THEY HAVE

FLAVOUR.

..:ST

:re onions and trim the roots.The peeling can be made

- rert slin

easier by skins

1 tahlespoon rock salt 1 bay leaJ

1 sprig thyme

:.q the onions first in boiling water for one minute. The
:rc.rvy-based, ovenproof .rnd shake the pan well

off re;dilw Preheat the oven to 180"C/350"F/Gas Mark,1.

fiying pan. heat the butter and oil, add the to coat them.

a little caster sugdt, to sprinkle

:rkle over the salt,add the bay leaf and thyme. then saut6 the onions

::rediunr heat until they rcquire a pale golden colour. :rkle lightlv with sugar, and cover

with a butter paper or a sheet -'red greaseproof paper. Transfer to the oven. Cook for about 20 litting rhe p:per and turning rhe onion. every 5 mirruter or
'.,.1

-ril the onions are tender in the centre and beginning to caramelize.

'. 'h" h,' l".f

th. '1g th'n

5e'1ye'.

94 VEGETABLES

Shallot confit
THrs ls usED tN so MANy
RECIpES tN

THrs BooK THAT

tr

IS

woRTH t4AK-

INGREDIENTS (makes about

250m1/9fl

tNG up A BATCH To sroRE tN THE REFRtcERAToR.

lr

ts,RrtrR ALL.nru 'ncr'

ozll

cup)

FLAVoURTNG, ESpEcTALLy wHEN SIRRED tNTo vrNArcRETTE. THe

coNrtr
DoMES-

8-10 large shallots, roots ttimmed

150m1/% pint/% cup extra-uilgin oliue oil
rock salt

rs BEST wHEN cooKED ovER THE LowEsr

HEAT possrBle.

llrouR

TIC HOB DOES NOT A

PERI4IT SUCH CONTROL, THEN PLACE THE PAN ON

METAL HEAT-DIFFUSER.

1 sprig thyme

1 bay leaf

I 2 3

Using a 1arge, sharp, cook's knife, chop the shallots into very fine djcc.
Place

in

a heavy-based saucepan

rvith the oil,

light sprinkling of

sa1t,

the thyn-re and bay leaf. Set the pan over medium heat until the oil becomes hot, then adjust
shaltots

the heat to its lorvest possible setting and continue to cook the until they
are meltingly tender

about 2 hours. Set aside to cool. Store in

jarin the refrigerator.wherc thc confit will keep for up to one week, or, if covered with a layer of olive oi1, for up to a month.
a screw-top

Potato rosti
Pe

Rrrcr

AS

A LrcHT cRrsp AccoMpANTMENT To

MEAT, FtsH oR vEGETABLES.

INGREDIENTS (for 4)
859/3oz/% stick butter 500g/1lb 2oz waxy potatoes, peeled
sea salt

You cnN xnrr Pornro ROsrr nN HouR oR Two

KEEP THEM WARM, UNCOVERED

AHEAD AND

ETTHER AS

IN A

VERY LOW OVEN, OR

REHEAT

REeurRED. Cuoosr A wAXy porATo, sucH As MLRts Ptpen oR Prcnsso, THAT wtLL HoLD
TrME

lrs

sHApE DURTNG FRyrNG.We coorc THESE FouR AT A

DTAMETER METAL

uslNc l0cv/4rr.r

currERS pLACED rN A LARGE

FRy-

tNG pAN. HowEVER, tr

vou ooN't

HAVE ENoucH currERS oF THE

sAME

stzE, stMPLY I'IAKE THEM ONE AT e

rtme.Ttrv

TAKE JUST MTNUTES TO COOK.

Clarify two-thirds of the butter. To do this, melt the butter slowly in

smal1 pan, leave

to stand olTthe heat for 2 minutes then carefully pour off

the clear fat into a bowl, leaving behind the milky deposits, which can be

thrown away. Cool.

Using a mandolin or the julienne cutter disc on yor-rr food processor,

grate the potatoes into long thin julienne strips. Dry the strips by putting them into a clean cloth and squeezrnq hard.Trarrsfer to a large bowl.

VEGETABLES

95

:: \\'ith salt to taste, then mix in the clarified butter. Leave to cool
rrrake the mixture easier

to handle.

, heavy-based frying pan until hot, then stand one or more plain
::crs inside it. Press a quarter of the potato mixture down inside

:rr-to make

a neat round shape.As each Potato Rosti cooks, siide

:..rb of the remaining br-rtter down the side.

. rhe underside is golden brown, about 2

minutes, remove the

::cr and flip over the Rosti with a palette knife. Cook the other

, tirther 2-3 minutes or until crisp. Repeat with the remaining

ld
..I

butter.Transfer the Rcisti to kitchen paper towels and keep in

', '.

',-.

ril '.^' 'i '..1

Potato

pu r6e
POTATOES

TO NEW HEIGHTS! THE SECRET LIES *fOSING A FLOURY VARIETY OF POTATO SUCH AS DESINET OR - 1'.O, CUTTING THE POTATOES INTO EVEN-SIZED CHUNKS FOR
- FTS MASHED

INGREDIENTS (makes about lkgl?'/olbl4 cups)

4
large potatoes, weighing

about 1kg/21/,1b, peeled

, :ooKtNG,
.. :

AND, FtNALLY,

lN

USTNG

MOULI FOOD-lYlLL OR A

and cut into 5cm/2in chunks 150m1/%

-RICER FOR THE PUREEING.

pint/'l

cup double cream

859/3oz/% stick unsalted butter, diced

:..c the chunks of potato well beneath cold running water to .: excess starch. Place them in a large saucepan, cover with cold

;freshly grated nutmeg

sea

salt and ground white pepper

- r.'id a tablespoon of salt and bring to the boil. Simmer gently until : usualiy 12-15 minutes. Drain the chunks wel1, return the ' i\ to the pan, then set over gentle heat and shake the pan until any
. \\-ater has evaporated.

i^

..illr-, pur6e the potatoes through a mouli food*mi11 or a potato-ricer.

::r.rtively, use a heavy masher but do not use a food processor, or the

',,-. .^rill trrrn "

b'*.-/'

otrrerz

., .eparate \aucepdn.

boil the creJnl to reduce by half. Off rhc

hear.

:he cream into the potato puree. then beat

in the butter, nutmeg

.itsonlng to

taste.

VEGETABLES

97

)mato concasse
.
SEEDED

AND

FINELY DICED TOMATOES MAKE

AN

INVALUABLE

INGREDIENTS (makes about 300g/ | 0t/zoz:

2 tomatoes

.. TO MANY OF IYY RECIPES. TOIVNTO CONICRSST IS ALMOST -:-' ADDED TOWARDS THE END OF MAKING A DISH, EITHER STIRRED " :IUCE OR USED AS A GARNISH. USE RIPE, FULL.FLAVOURED PLUM :: wHERE POSSIBLE. : .i snall, sharp
'.::n
slash

will make about

lO0gl3t,/zozl

4 tablespoons) 500g/1lb 2oz ripe plum tonatoes

knife, cut the core from the stalk end of each

the top of the opposite end to pierce the skin. Place the

rn a bowl and cover with boiling rvater.'Wait a minlrte or two

.krns start

to curl, then drain off the water, run the tomatoes

.l

\\'ater and skin.

rrc tomatoes

in half, remove the seeds and inner flesh then chop urto very fine dice. Place in a bowl, cover and set aside in the

:.irl r'equired.

cmato
:
:ooD
"

Pu

ree
INGREDIENTS (makes about 500m1/l pint) 1kg/2'/tb ripe
100m1/3'/,J1
tomdtoes, preferably FRESH FLAVOUR.

)IFFERENT FROM CANNED TOMATO PUREE! THIS IS MUCH LIGHTER

.-JRE AND COLOUR,WITH A LOVELY

IT

IS PARTICU-

plum, skinned

MrxED |NTO AUBERGTNE CAVIAR

PARSLEY STALKS, FLAVOUR.

(elcr l0l). lr YOU HAVE

THEY

oz/%

up

extrd-uirgin oliue oil

:{SlL OR

ADD THEM DURING COOKING SO

3 shallots, sliced

:_ ADDITIONAL

cloues

garlic, crushed

7 Bourluet Carni (page 18)

:::rt the oven to 180'C/350"F,/Gas Mark 4. Quarter the tomatoes,

.::.card the seeds and core. Chop the flesh into large dice.

STORAGE
Tre
runEe

,r the oi1 in a cast-iron or ovenproof saucepan and gently fry the

wul

KEEe FoR up

ro 3 on'rs rN A scREw-Top

JAR

:. and garlic fot 3-4 minutes until softened but not coloured.

IN THE REFRIGERATOR, LONGER IF COVERED WITH A LAYER OF OLIVE OIL. IT MAY ALSO BE FROZEN

the tomatoes, Bouquet Garni and herb stalks if using. Cover ::.rnsfer to the oven for about 50-60 minutes or until softened.
:.1

IN

BATCHES OF ABOUI

l00t'ttl3|4rt ozlt/2 cup -

FoR up

ro 2

MoNTHs.

,r'e the Bouquet Garni and any herb stalks. Blend the tonrato ' :rc to a smooth pur6e in a food processor. Cool and use as required.

98 VEGETABLES

Tomato confit
MAcERATED lN A Low OVEN WITH FRAGRANT OLIVE OIL, GARLIC AND AROMATIC THYME FOR A DELICIOUS GARNISH OR ACCOMPANIMENT.

Drscs

or roMATo

FLEsH ARE

sLowly

INGREDf ENTS (makes TSgt2%ozt% cup) 6 large plum tomatoes

oliue oil, to drizzle ouer

I Using a small, sharp knife, cr,rt the

cloues garlic, peeLed and cut

in

sliuers

core from the stark end of

each

1 larqe sprig thyme

freshly ground black pepper

tomato, then slash the top of the opposite end to pierce the skin. place the tomatoes in a bor.vl and cover with boiling water. wait a mi'ute or rwo until the skins start to curr, then drain off the water, run the tomatoes under cold water and skin. lor.vest possible setting, around gO"C/ 170"F/Gas Mark Lor'. Harve and seed the skinnecl tomatoes then cut our the inner ribs.

Preheat

the oven to the

Using a round or oval pastry cutter, about 1cm/1.%in in diameter, cut out one shape per tomato half. Lay flat, skinned side up, on a small shal_

low tray and trickle nith olive oil. 4 Scatter over rhe garlic srivers. pick the reaf tips o{r the sprig of thyme and sprinkle over the tonlatoes then place in the oven. 5 Leave for 1-2 hours, brushilrg once or twice with the orive oil, until the
tomatoes have sofrened but stiil hord their shape. Season black pepper, cool, the' rransfer to a dish. cover and

with ground

chiil until required.

,a::

l:1,,

,i.rt

ri.. 11.,,

:ii:

I OO

VEGETAtsLES

Little stuffed cabbage leaves

We srnve
rHESE AS

GARNIsH FoR PIGEoN BUT THEY ARE ALso GooD

INGREDIENTS (makes about24 enough for 5-8)

12 larye mbbage

little balls'

wtrH A

RANGE

oF

PouLTRY, GAME AND MEAT DlsHEs.

Encg BALL

oF

CABBAGE LEAF ENCLOSES

LITTLE OF OUR MIXTURE FOR THE TCRRINE OT

leaues, pre;ferably Sauoy

Fore Gnns wtrH CnNnno

CoNrtr (pr,ce 63).Ar uour,You coulD

vtxrunE AND,

usE

150g/ 5oz Tbrrine of Foie Gras with Canard Conli (pagc 63) or sfttooth liuer pdti

youR owN

CREAMY pArE

INDEED,vEGETARIANS MIGHT LIKE

TO SUBSTITUTE A FINELY CHOPPED MUSHROOM AND HERB MIXTURE.

teaspottns cream

1 teaspoort chopped cheruil

Blanch the cabbage leaves irr boiling salted r,varer for about 15

secor.rds

sea

salt dnd -freshly ground blatk pepper

until just rvilted, then plunge into ice-cold water to refresh thern and keep the colour.

2 3

Pat dry in a clean c1oth. IJsing a plain 7.5cm/3in cuttcr, cut or-rt .rbout

24 circles from the leaves, avoiding the hard stalks. Soften the mixture of the Terrine of Foie Gras r'vith Canard Confit or
a small, plain nozzle.

liver pit6 and beat in the cream, chervil and seasoning,if liked. Spoon into
a piping bag

rvith

4 Cut off

of cling fih-n large enough to completely wrap one cabbage leaf, about 20cm,/8in lons. Arrange a cabbage leaf in the
a piece centre of the cling film, then put this in the palm of your hand. Pipe about
1 small teaspoon of foie gras or pXt6 into the centre of the leai Draw up

the edges of the cling film rvith the leaf to tnake a ball shape, wrapplng tightly so there are no air-pockets, and tr,visting the excess cling fi1m into
a top-knot. Repeat urrtil all the leaves are

filled and

r.vrapped.

Blanch the leaves in boiling r,vater for 3 ninutes. Drain and, whel cool

enough to handle, cut off the cling film and serve.

Creamed parsley
SrRve ns A GARNtsH FoR PAN-FRIED BEEF FILLETS, oR TRY Frsu

lr wHlsKED lNTo

INGREDIENTS (for 4)

VrlourE (ence l4)

ns n vIBRANT PARTNER FoR coD.

large bunches curfuJeaf pdrsley, weighing ab,

100g/3%oz

I Pick off the stalks from the parsley

thoroughly and drain.

and spinach, then wash the leaves

100g/ 3%oz large spirLdch leaues

5}ml/2Jl oz/',4 cup double

and blanch the parsley and spinach for
sea

creant

2 Bring a pan of water to the boil

salt and ground white pepper

about 4 minutes, adding the parsley first, then the spinach 1 minute later'

VEGETABLES IOI

l -r:rrn well, but do not

refresh

in cold

water.

To dry the

leaves

.*r:rruqhly, place them in a clean tea towel and wrap up tightly, squeezing ,rrr :li the water.

| -:: .r small saucepan, boil down the cream until reduced by half. I ur.rnrvhile, put the parsley and spinach into a food processor ,*.: rlend to a pur6e. Add the reduced cream and seasoning to taste. ,,, .:. lnd use as required.

Aubergine caviar
ll'-osr rHE IDEAL ALL-ROUND
VEGETABLE ACCOMPANIMENT,

THrs soFTBABY

INGREDIENTS (makes about

450mll% pint/l% cups)
1 medium aubergine
rock salt

drrD AUBERGINE FLESH HAS SO MANY USES: SPOONED tNTO

ILERGINE SHELLS, IT MAKES AN EXCELLENT PARTNER FoR RoAsT LAMB AND

*id -t!

ROASTED FISH SUCH AS FIRM-FLESHED MONKFISH.

BASE FOR

Ir

IS NISO

A VERSA-

RANGE oF VEGETARIAN MAIN coURsEs, AND, MIXED wITH

1 large cloue garlic, partially uushed

1 sprig rosemary

I..TTLE

GRATED, FRESH HoRSERADISH,

IT EVEN MAKES A GooD

STARTER.

I I t

Preheat the oven

rr-gh'rvays, score the flesh and sprinkle both cut sides

to 220"c/425"F/Gas Mark 7. Halve the aubergine with sait.

Llr- the garlic and rosemary on one half, sandwich with the other. then lJake

o::p rvell in foil.

for about 45 minutes, rhen lower the heat to 110"C/230"F/

'i' Mark %,andbake for a further 20 minutes until the skins have sh.v: ed. the shells have collapsed and the flesh is completely soft. { Unrvrap, scrape out the garlic and rosemary and discard. Scoop ::t the aubergine flesh onto a board. When cool enough to handle,
-:op the flesh very finely with a large sharp knife and piace the pulp in
a

':rllow saucepan. 3 over a medium

heat, stir the pulp until its excess moisture has evapo-

:ircd, leaving the pulp

- or'caviar'-

perfectly dried out. (Jse

as

required.

rue always
1n)t

been ;fascinated by

fish

and seafood,

and they are a major part

of their uari-

menu, especially

in the summer. Maybe it's

the sheer diuersity

; that excites ffi, their creatiue potential

)ttrs) uariation of textures and range
o;f

deriued

from the uibrancy of their

Jlauours.
choose

When
',onsciously,

I go out to eat, most of the time I

fish, perhaps

because,

prefer

fish

cawght the Tsreuious doy to

d three-week-old brrf

,'t. When I cook with fish, :s little

I tike to keep the dish simple anil tamper with

just tuith oil and lemon, ot, steaming ouer

ds possible, roasting the;fish

:r'ell-flauoured cowrt-bouillon.
'ttrning, checking meticulowsly

also spend

a lot of

time preparing Jish,

for pin

bones, then wrapping

in cling;fitm

anil

lling before cookirg

a process

that enhances the shape and;firms the flesh.

My fauourite fish is sea bass - inJact, it's my signature dish

seyued with

isht uanilla ueloutt sauce. But

also harbour a great loue for shellfish anil buy

-ir of my supplies -fno* Scotland, including Belon oysters with tlteir big, ilark
,'//s, so fresh they are

dfficutt to prise open. Scallops I buy,fno* suppliers who herd

so

'lter than farm them and, again,

fresh that when opened they still pulsate.

I ,fin d ;four good uses -fon

le mus cles are added to
trr-fried, often split
u elou

scallops: the skirt is used

in a stock: the small

a

t6 sauces; the coral

is

dried and ground to

,s

'ruder to JTauour risottos ; and,

finally, the suteet main mectt

usually lightly

in tuto

i;f uery medt))

FISH AND SEAFOOD I05

fillet of sea bass with ius vanille

!*g xls BEEN A spEcrAlrry
FoR us EVER srNcE wE opENED. Sove wour-o

INGREDIENTS (for 4)
1 litre/1% pints/4% cups Fish Stock (page 14)
7 sea bass weighing just over 1kg/2lb 4oz, -fllleted but not skinned

Itr 'T HAS BECOME OUR SIGNATURE DISH, AND MANY REGULAR CLIENTS n6 TNADVANcETo FtND oUTwHETHER tr ts oNTHE MENU. I rtnsr rxprIFED TTASAN rDEA rN Pnnts,wHrRe rrwAs LoBSTERTHATWAS BErNG |tr.rtD rN PARTNERSHIp wtrH A vANILLA sAUcE. I relr rur FLAVoURS
ffi"ILD ,|r ,TS BEST IN THE AUTUMN. WHEN SALSIFY
Fcgs
SERVE

1 large uanilla pod

BE QUITE FANTASTIC ENHANCED WITH BRAISED SALSIFY, WHICH

IS

4009/14o2 saki;fy juice of 1 lemon 50g/2oz/'y' stick butter plws dn extra knob of
irc-cold butter for fnishing the sauce

IS OUT OF SEASON,

SOVE-

THE SEA BASS oN A BED oF SPINACH oR,ns

PREFER

WHEN IT

{i

TVAILABLE,

Swtss

culRo - AN
A

UNDERRATED vEGETABLE THAT REeutREs

a'E
@

CHAMproNtNG.Asr youn

FTsHMoNGER

To

FILLET THE BAss BUT

Nor

8 whole

baby

fennel bulbs or 1 large bulb, halued,

-rD sx'rN

rr

As rHE sKrN HAs

BEAUTTFUL SILVER-cREv sueeru

rulr I rrre

cored and sliced

SHOVV OFF IN THE PRESENTATION OF THE DISH.

1 sprig thyme

1 bay leaf

I Have ready the Fish Stock and set aside. I Cut the sea bass fillets into 4'tranches', or neat slices, then very fo6irth' score the skin with a sharp knife. This will help the skin to *-rrntelize during cooking and also prevent it from curiing. If preparing
pcrd. rvrap tightly in cling film (righr).

about

tablespoons olive oil

1 tablespoon double cream

sea salt,freshfu

ground black pepper and My Special

(page 105)

Pepper

Mix

t Strain the Fish Stock through a fine sieve into a saucepan and bring * to the boil. Split the vanilla pod open and scrape the seeds into the
rrx to cool completely and vanilla to infuse, then boil down to reduce by one-third. Remove *hc
stock, followed by the pod. Leave the stock

MAKING FISHTRANCHES:
TntvvtNc AND yET MoRE TRn4tytNG - THts GooD
pRESENTATToN,
FILLETS ts

rHE sEcRET oF

EspEcrALLy

ron rrsu.Tntv rHE stDEs

OF FISH

WITH A SHARP KNIFE TO NEATEN THEI4 INTO

rad discard the pod.

REcTANGULAR sgepes. REcTANGLES EAcH

lr rHE

FILLETS ARE LARGE,

cur

tNTo

it thinly, then immediately drop it into cold crter with a little of the lemon juice added to prevent discoloration. Etrnch in boiling salted water for 2 minutes, drain, refresh in ice-cold *rter and drain again. Pat dry and cut into neat bitons. LVelt half the butter in a saucepan and add a ladleful of the vanillaC.rroured stock. Bring to a light boil, toss i.n the salsify bitons and cook gnril the stock has reduced to a glossy glaze. Stir in one-third of the rmaining butter. The bitons should be lightly coloured; if they are not,
To prepare the salsifii, peel

ABour 7.5

x l0cm/3 x

4rN.

Wup
SHAPE.

IIGHILY

IN

CLING I-ILIY AND CHILL TO SET THE

UNwRnp BEFoRE cooKrNG.

;ook for

a further minute or so. Set aside.

tf?gf,fe F$f-i; ?a
s-.F.t
PP s"-s

i'

I06 FISH AND SEAFOOD

another third of the butter in a medium pan and cook the fennel until nicely coloured. Add another ladlefur of the vanilla stock ro the
along

6 Melt

MY SPECIAL PEPPER MIX:

IN A SIYALL BOWL MIX EQUAL QUANTITIES OF WHITE AND
BLACK pEppERcoRNs.Toss tN soME coRtANDER sEEDs,

with the thyme and the bay

for 8-10 minutes. Set aside.

'eaf,

pan cover and braise over a gentle heat

7 When you are ready to cook the

200"c/400'F/Gas Mark 6. Remove

2-3 sren

ANIsE AND

FEw wHoLE GREEN cARDAMor4

pEppER

ir has sropped foamilg, add the bass skin-side down. Cook for about 3_,1 minutes, then flip the
fillet:
over.

wrap the fish fillets' Heat the o' in a heavy-based frying pan with heatproof or removable handles _ suitable for the oven. I Season the bass with salt, pepper anci the remaining lemon juice. Add the last third of rhe butrer to the pan. When

the oven the cling firm if you have used it

bass, preheat

ro
ro

poos. FuNNel lNTo A

WHENEVER REQUIRED.

rlrll

AND

GRTND FRESHLy

the pan to tne oven to cook the flesh side of the fillets, also for 3-4 minutes. The flesh should feei just firrn and lightiy springy, and any liquid should have evaporated. Season the bass with My Special pepper Mix (right).

9 tansfer

their separate pans. Divide the fennel between each warmed plate. put the fish on top, skrn_
side up- Arrange the sarsify bitons around the bass in a circre. | | To finish rhe sauce, add the knob ofice-cold butter and reheat
saucepan' frothing

To make the sauce, reheat the remai'ing van'ia stock and stir in the cream. Reheat the salsify bitons and the fennel in
|

in the

with a Bamix

(see page 1gg

for supplier) or hand-herd

electric muiti-blentler. Spoon the frothy sauce over the fish and drizzle the remainder lightly over the salsify.

FISH AND SEAFOOD I07

Confit of tuna in red wine sauce

*:,F STEAK. oF TUNA ARE MEATY EN.UGH To BE cooKED C.NFIT-'TYLE n :,_cK oR GoosE FAT THEN SERVED wtrH FULL_BootEo
{A-.::.
TUTRE nRT MANY VARIETIES oF TUNA, BUT WE UsE THE FRE'HEST
STEAKS FROM THE

INGREDIENTS (for 4)
1

Rro Wrrue

x quantity

Red

Wine

Sauce

(p,tst 2 | t
i/-rrt.i,._.-,,rr;.

l,-{*.lN

SOUru

or

Fnnucr.

180g/6oz Jresh tuna stedks, skirtttct/ 500g/ 1lb 2oz new potatoes, scrrtbbed

I ::-i'c ready the Red'wine Sauce and set asicre.f}im the tuna steaks into :r;' .hapeS if necessary. I .':rboil the potatoes until almost cooked but still firm, then drain and , , Cut into even slices for saut6eing; set aside. t llclt one-third of the butter in a heavy-based frying pan rnith harf the :. iod, when hot, saut6 the onions, sprinkling over the icing sugar and r:-:!.9 occasionally, for about 10 minutes or until caramelized and r jen brown. Remove and keep warm. I iJhnch the beans and asparagus separarery in iightry salted boiiing
water

859/3oz/% stick buuer

2 2

tablespoons oliue oil

150g/5%oz baby onions, peeled

teaspoons icing sugar

200g/7oz;t'resh whole green beans, trimmed

300g/10o2 aspdragus tips, trimmed

2
5

teaspoons chopped parsley

00nl / 1 8fl oz / 2 cups duck or

goose

;fat

sea

salt and Jreshly ground black pepper

:.:::l cooked but just firm. Drain and set

aside

in a warm

piace.

Heat the remaining butter and

o' in a saut6 pan and saut6 the potatoes

: ::rl qolden brown and crisp, turning occasionally so they colour evenly. :irn, sprinkle with parsley and seasoning and keep warm. Meanwhile,

-::cat the RedWine

Sauce

in

a small saucepan and keep hot.

a

\\/hen you are ready to cook the tuna, heat the duck or goose fat in ::ep-sided frying pan to a meclium heat of about 65"c/160"E or until :re of day-old bread browns in about 1 minure.

be pale brown on the outside, ::,'ely pink inside, and lightly springy to touch. Drain well on (::.hen paper towels.
To serve, arrange a bed of potatoes in the centre of each warmed plate ;::d place a tuna steak on top ofeach. Spoon the onions, beans and aspara_ :-rs around the edge then spoon over the hot Red wine sauce and serve.

? (look the tuna steaks, submerging them under the fat, for :-" minLltes'-when cooked, they shourd

about

I08 FISH AND SEAFOOI)

Dorade with pesto sauce

oNe op rur
MToTT.RRANEAN FrsH TRADTTT.NALL' AssocrATED

wrrH A clAssrc
SIMPLY SEA

BOUILLABAISSE, DORADE,

INGREDIENTS (for 2)
1 u,httle
dor.ade

OR GILT-HEAD BREAM,

IS

ALSO DELICIOUS SERVED

ROASTED OR PAN-FRIED, AS IN THIS NECIPE. FINE IN TEXTURE, BASS

, about g00g/ 1th 120:

IT IS SIMILAR TO

AND

-fiLleted rreatly
.f-eu spri,qs thyme
t./.

in

ttutt

SOMETIMES EASIER

TO

FIND, ALTHOUGH RED

OR BLACK BREAM

I.4AKE

GOOD SUBSTITUTES IF DORADE IS UNOBTAINABLE, IF FILLETING FISH IS NOT YOUR FORTE, ASK THE FISHMONGER TO DO THIS FOR YOU.

about

quantity porato purie (page 95)

rnblespoous pesto (page 191

tdblespoons

Gw tinres to pre\-ent the fish fronr curLns

Trirn the dorade fillets neatlv, then check for a'y fine pi' bo'es ancl rernove these with t\\'eezers. rJsing the tip of a sharp kni't, score trre skin
carefulll.
as it cooks. pick the leaf ,flou.ers,

2-3

lii,tft J;e6p (pdgc 1l)

8 baby gloLte artichokes luice

about
o.f % lemon

off one of the thvnre sprigs ancl scatter over the flesh. Cover and clill. 2 Have ready the potato lrur6e, pesro and Fish stock. Reheat the pur6e and keep warm.Thin do*.n the pesto rvith the Fish Stock a'cl set

n little plain -flour,.for coatius

tahlespoorrs oliuc

oil

1 cl.ot,e gdrl.ic, peeled nrtd cruslrcd

in the flour to coat iigl_rtlr,,. 5 Heat a little of the o'i'a non-stick fi1.ing pan and with the garlic u't'.iust render. Seasor lightly

dr,r' 3t 6 toss

for the \,,e1out6 of Artichokes w-ith Fois Gras (step 2,p.a.ge 47'). 4 Place the flour in a bou4 and seasorr rver1. I)rair the artichoke srices, pat
sar.rt6

aside.

Prepare the artichokes

in the

rnedium scallops, sltelletl, trimnrcd and u,it,

(page

same wav as

10) then

diced

:
2

tdblt:pnatrs cltoyptd ,:lriu,.s

sprigs o.f tarragon

teLtsl:oons cltoppet! parsley

the artichokes
u,arnr.

sea

snlt and-freshly ground black pepper

the pa' clean using kitclien papel: towels and heat a rittle r'ore the oi1 unril verv hot, then quickly sar-rt6 the diced scallops
should taken no r.nore than

'wipe

trren renro\re

a'd keep

o'

untri crisp; this

o'. Seasor-r the doracre and then place skin-side dou'n in the hot pan. cook the fish for about 5 mi'ures or u'til a''ost done (it shor-rld be srightil'spring'a'd the skin crisp) rhen turn over and cook the flesh sicle tor about 2 rrinrltes.

nrinute. Renrove and keep rvarr.n.

Reheat the pan rvith the renrai'ing

M* the chives i'to the potato pur6e and spoo' onto the cent.e of each prate. pour the Iresto arounci the potato a'd spri'kle the diced' fried scatops and artichoke s'ces o'er the sauce. Arrange the fish on top of the potato. ga'rish rvith sprigs of
over the chopped parsle1,. t:rrragon and thvnre, a'c' sprirkle

To serve' heat the pesto.

t:: .
ir:, i,.l

IIO FISH AND SEAFOOL)

Blanquette of tu rbot with oyster ravio I i

A
RecrpE THAT rNsptRED ME wHrLE
MARRTAGE

woRKrNG roR PtERne KorrNnN

nr

Ln

INGREDIENTS (for 4)
200m1/7J1 oz/% cup Fish Stock (page 11)
%

TnNrr Cnrnr. I lrrrrHE wtrH

oF oySTERSAND LtrrLE cucuMBER BALLs ts usED tN

THE MEATy ruRBor. lN

ruts

RECTPE FREsH PASTA

Two

DtF-

x rluantity (110g/4%oz)

homemade Pasta

FERENT

wAys,To ENCLosE AN oysrER RAVtoLt AND FoR THE FREsH Tncltnrrlle,

Dough (page 27) for the rauioli

ALTHoucH

you coulD

usE GooD

euALlry

READy-MADE

tncltnrellr.

FoR

250g/9oz

homemade Thgliatelle (page

29) or

SIMPLER DISH,THIS COULD BE MADE WITHOUT THE RAVIOLI.

Jresh ready-made 350m1/12J1 oz/1% cups Fish Wlout[ (page 11

Have ready the Fish Stock, hornemade Pasta Dough and Tagliatelle,

if

1 large cucumber

using, and the FishVelout6 and set aside.

200g/7oz young spinach cut 4 large

leaues

2 Peel the cucumber then, using a very small melon baller,

oysters, remoued ;fi'om their shells, juices

out as many cucumber bal1s as possible from the flesh, discarding the seeds. Blanch the balls in boiline u.ater. drain and refresh in ice-cold
water and set aside.

reserued (page 35)

150g/5oz turbot.fiIlets

259/1oz/% stick butter

squeeze of lemon

3 4

Blanch the spinach in lightly salted boiling water for about 1 minute, or

until just u''i1ted. Drain and refresh in cold water then drain again. Set aside.

heaped teaspoon each chopped cheruil

and

clt:

For the ravioli,

ro11

out the Pasta Dough and, using a 10cm/4in cutter,

(steps 1-4, page 29). Blanch the
seconds. Remove

sea

salt and ground white peppet

stamp out
oysters

8 circles to make 4 ravioli

in a litt1e simmering Fish Stock for just 30

with

a slotted spoon. Allor'v to cool, then use the oysters as a filling for the ravioli. Make sure the edges are well sealed. Blanch the ravioli in salted boiling water for about 1 minute then drain and keep w'arm.

Gently poach the turbot

in the remaining Fish Stock for about 4-5

minutes or until it is about three-quarters cooked. Remove the fi1lets carefu1ly

with a slotted spoon and and keep warm. Boil the stock until syrupy

and reduced by about two-thirds.

5 7

Stir in the FishVelout6 and return to the boil, cooking for about 2 min-

utes.Add the turbot fillets to this sauce and reheat for a further 2 minutes.

Cook the homemade Tagliatelle in boiling water for 30 seconds. If you

are using ready-made, fo11ow the pack instructions. Toss

in half the butter

and place in mounds in the centre of each plate. Reheat the cucumber and spinach separarcly in the renraining butter.

I 9

Place the turbot fillets on top of the Tagliatelle and sit a ravioli on ton
pasta.

of that. Spoon the cucumber and spinach around the fish and

Reheat the FishVelout6, season with lemon juice, salt and pepper, stir-

ring in the herbs and any oyster juice just at the last moment. Pour the
sauce over the ravioli and turbot and serve at once.

FISH ANI) SEAFOOD III

ioasted monkfish with boulangdre potatoes

.'.:ATY MONKFISH TEAMS WELL WITH TUC FNEruCH COUNTRY STYLE OF

INGREDIENTS (for 4)
4 x 300g/ 10oz ntonklish fllets, skinned
soJtened hu tter,,for .qrea si np

:CTATOES, BAKED

IN ROUNDS AND

SERVED SIMPLY

WITH FISH JUICES,

-y

oLtvE olL AND LEMoN 1urce. loenllv,you wrLL NEED HoT.4EMADE

=OR THIS RECIPE, BUT FAILING THAT YOU

CAN SUBSTITUTE A

VERY

oliue oil .for.li'yin.q plus extra.for ,qreasins

)OLUTION OF GOOD BOUILLON POWDER AND BOILING WATER.

a littl, ylaitt J1,,ur.-[,,r -.tarittq

sea

salt and,freshly qtound hLdtk peplter

- ready the Fish Stock orVegetable Nage. . - sure all the grey merlbrane is removed from the nronkfish as this ,use the fish to curl and cook unevenll-. If necessarr,-, slice it offrvith

FORTHE POTATOES:
250nrl/9_fl oz/ 1 tult Fi,s/r Srorfr (page 14) or
W,getable Ndgc (pdge 13)

rhin knife. Tear off 4 sheets of greaseproof paper large enor.rgh to

:rrcel for each fillet. Brush the

,'.rt the oven

sheets

lightly r.vith sottened butter.

pan and quick-

medit.rm potdtoes, each wd,ghing about

2009/702,

to 220"C/425"F,/Gas Mark 7. Season the fillets then

2

peekd
tktues

-.:lv in flor-rr. Heat a little olive oil in a large frying :le fish all over until just golden brou'n.
:'
each

garlt,

peeled and

jn.ely tholtpcd

4 shallots, -fin ely choppcd

seal. Place

fillet in

vL15

Lrr)

a sheet of the paper', ts-istlns the ends to *-^-^r^^--r to the oven for B-9 minutes.

259/1oz/l
TO SERVE:

stick burter

:.c the fish is cooking, slice the potatoes thinlv into rounds about
rn thick. r-rsing either a rnandolin, the slicer blade of a food proces, rharp knife. Place in a borvl, season r,r'e11, then scatter the chopped
.;r11

juice o-i'/ lcnton a lirtle oliuc oil

sprigs o;f tarragon and.11at-leaJ' 1:drsle1,

shallots on top.

:I

circles of gre:rseproof p.rper erch 8crrr/3 rin

in diameter. Brush

-lcs

lvith olive oil and place in a small, shallorv roasting tin.Arrange

:.rto slices, together with the shallots and garlic, in overlapping slices
:r paper circle.

.:r over the Fish Stock orVegetable Nage:rnd bring to a simmer on :. of the stove. Dot the potatoes with butter, then transfer the tin to

:n lor around -ik

10 r-ninutes or

until golden bros'n.'When

cooked,

:lre slices in the stock. the fish is cooked b1' pressing the thickest part of the fillet firm-

r voul finger. If it is firm and not at all springy tl.ren it is read.v.

,s' the fish to stand in the prper for

,r.rtoes frorn

; feu minutes

rvhile you slide

their paper

bases using a fish slicc ontr)

\\-rrm servrng

Unwrrp the fish. slice each fillet into ,l-6 rouncls

potatoes.

ancl place on top

Trickle over any juices frorn the potato tin and from the

',rcels.

tprinkle

1en'ron

juice and olive oil over the fish ancl

potrLtoes. :rncl

..r ri irh the sprigs of rrrrugorr and par.ler.

FISH AND SEAFOOD I I3

toasted monkfish with red wine sauce

.. rtsH
ts

A GooD MEATv FtsH AND cAN

TAKE

A FULL_FLAVouRro Reo

INGREDIENTS (for 4)
1

.
.

SRUCE.WHV ruOr? IT CENTRIruLV WORKS WELL IN THE RESTAURANT.

cluantity RedWine Sauce (page 21)

JIJCE CAN BE MADE IN ADVANCE AND THEN REHEATED,AS CAN THE

Shredded Leeks, to garnish (page 180)

-.

{I'4OUNT OF RISOTTO THAT ACCOMPANIES IT.

150g/ 5oz monkfsh Jillets

% teaspoon Jiue-spice powder

ready the Red'W'ine Sauce, Chicken Stock and Shredded Leeks

1 tablespoon oliue oil plus extra to serue

: rside.
::: the monkfish fillets neatly, taking care to remove the grey mem_ ,' this could cause the fish to curl ifleft on during cooking. sprinkle

FORTHE RISOTTO:
200m1/7fl oz/% cup Chicken Stock
(page 18)

in the refrigerator. ::::ke the risotto, simmer the rice in the Chicken Stock for about 12 ::. or until it isjust soft, stirring occasionaily. Season and set aside. ..n you are ready to cook the monkfish, preheat the oven to
-125"F,u

-::c five-spice powder and set aside

509/2oz/% cup risotto rice e.g. Carnaroli,

Arborio or Vialone Nano uariety

tablespoons double cream

cheese

1 tablespoon mascarpone

Gas

Mark

7. Heat the

oil in

a heavy_based frying pan

with

1 teaspoon each of chopped basil and chiues

:-'of or removable handles

- suitable for the oven. Add the fillets and ::rem for about 3 minutes on one side,then flip them over.Transfer
:ne fish warm.

,:r to the oven and cook for a further 5 minutes or so until just firm.

rrnish the risotto, gently reheat the rice and stir in the cream, ,:pone and herbs, then check the seasoning. Reheat the Red

Sauce.

':'.ron the risotto into mounds in the centre of each warmed plate. cut ,:-.rnkfish into slices and arrange on top of the risotto. ':'tron the sauce around the fish then drizzle round the oil. Garnish
:he Shredded Leeks and serve.

i3 dixl *S $ d: d,

$3i r.:

,ili: :'

:fr$r

tp

,$:

.$,,g,,

S;Y

i,,.

II4 FISH AND SEAFOOI)

Bouillabaisse with saffron new poratoes

THIS CLISSIC MEOITTRRNTrAN FISH SOUP IS A JOY TO MAKE
WHENEVER

MrorrenRnneAN sEAFooD ts cooKED AND puREED; sEcoND, THE ADDI_ TION OF CHUNKS OF FILLETED FISH SIMMERED WITH SAFFRON-SCENTED porAToEs.A gourLrasntssE ts NorwoRTH MAKTNG tN sMALL euANTtlEs so rr ts TDEAL FoR ENTERTAINtNG. SrRve wrrs RourlLe (pnce 2l).

YOU CAN GET THE APPROPRIATE VARIETIES OF SEAFOOD. THE SOUILLNARISSC IS MADE IN TWO STAGES: FIRST THE BASE, FOR WHICH AN ASSORTMENT OF

INGREDTENTS

(for t2)
seafootl utr,i

FORTHE BASIC BROTH:

3 kg

6lb 10oz assorted Mediterranean from at least 3 of

the

choosen

following:

petch, rascasse, sea bream, weeuer Jish, largt

prdwns) sea bass, r,ed mullet and skinnerl

Jillets of conger eel

450m1/% pint/2% cups oliue oil

Begin by preparing the seafood:

scale,

you buy thern. To prepare the remaining fish for the garnish, scale, gut and trim rhem, removing the heads. Cut into bite_sized chunks. To make the broth, heat the oil in a large saucepan or stockpot and add the leeks, onrons, garlic, tomatoes, Bouquet Garni, fennel, herb stalks and fish sweat the ingredients over a 1ow heat for about 20 mirrures, strrring frequentllr Add the cold rvater' bring to the boil rhen srmner for 45-50 minutes. Remove from the heat and reave to
stand for 20 rninutes flavours to infuse.

lntact but remove gills. prawns can be have their poisonous spines removed 'eft rvhen

cur and trim o{f fins. Keep heads intact. If you obtain weever fish,

large leeks, white parts only, slicerl

1

1009/ 12

loz

onions, coarsely chopperl

cloues ,qarlic, unpeeled

and uushed

800,q/1lb 12oz uery ripe tomatoes, roughly tl:

1 large Bouquet Garn.i (page 181

bulbs Jennel, roughly chopped

stalks offresh basil, cheruil and parsley

S litres/10%

pints cokl watey

FOR THE GARNISH ADDITIONS:

to arow the

2kg/{lb 8oz
3

assorted.fish, choosen.from

at

lL.:

4 5

the satTron until haif*cooked, then drain.

Pass

Meanwhile' prepare the garnish of potatoes: parboil the potatoes with

Dory, monkfish, :, gurnard, red mullet and sea breant

oJ the _following:John

Check the seasoning.

the fish broth through a mouli food_mill or through a large sreve, rubbing with the back of a radre. Discard the bones and other debris. Pour the broth through a fine sieve twice, agarn rubbing with a ladle.
To complete the Bou'rabaisse, put the parbo'ed potatoes into a larse

1kg/2lb loz small new potatoes, teft whole

and scrubbed

2 2

large

pinrhes

o;f

safron strands

a little oliue oil, to serue

tablespoons chopped cl.riues

casserole

or

saucepan then

fish

then iower the heat to a slow simmer a'd cook for 5 minures'Add the reserved chunks of fish for the garnish and a trickle of olive oil and continue to cook 'ittre for another 7-10 minutes, or until the
is

7 Bring to the bo'

pour over the fish broth.

just firm and the potatoes soft.

lift out rhe fish and rransfer to a large, warmed tureen' pour over the broth and sprinkle over the chopped chives.

Using a siotted spoon' gently

;t

i t,;ii. rii *, iirr't:1.*:,,:

.::,

II6 FISH AND

SEAFOOD

Roasted brill with a brandade of cod

wtrH porATo AND cARLtc. We use tr As A BAsE FoR stMpLE ,RoAsrrD' FTLLETS oF BRILL, SHARpENED wtrH A sHALLor AND SHERRv vtNEGAR sAUcE. lr you Llrr, cARNrsH wrrH A TrNy Drsc or Pornro Rosrr. lr enrLt rs uNoBTATNABLE. you cAN usE FtLLETS oF TURBoT on logru Dony.
aRnNonoe ts
FLAKED FtsH MtxruRE coMBtNED

INGREDIENTS (for 4)

FORTHE BRANDADE:
1 tablespoon oliue oil

200g/7oz

cod

jllets,

skinned and cut into tlt

diced

150g/5oz potatoes, peeled and

500m1 / 1 8J1 oz /

2 cups milk

I 2

Have ready the Shallot Confit andVeal Stock, and set aside.

1 cloue garlic, peeled and crushed

For the brandade, heat a tabiespoon of the oil in a heavy-based pan. 'Roast' the cod on the top of rhe stove until just cooked and golden.
Remove, flake and cool.

2 2

tablespoons double cream teaspoons chopped parsley

3 cook

the potatoes in the milk along with the garlic and some salt and
a

FORTHE SAUCE: 2 3 2
tablespoons Shallot

pepper until soft but not broken down. Drain through a colander set over

Confit (page

9l)
1

bowi, reserving the mi1k. Mash the potatoes in a large bowl until smoorh, then slowly mix in the reserved milk and the cream, beating until you have
a creamy paste.You may not need all the milk, but do use all the cream.

400m1/ 14J1 oz / 1% cups Wal Stock (page

tablespoons Madeira teaspoons sherry uinegar

Using a spatula, fold the flaked cod genrly into the potato, keeping the fish as flaky as possible. Season, mix in the parsley. and set aside.

FORTHE BRILL AND GARNISH:

200g/7oz young spinach
leaues

5 To make the sauce, cook the Shallot Confit and Madeira in a small
saucepan

until the liquid is reduced by hatf. Deglaze with the sherry vine-

259/1oz/% stick butter

2009 /
7

gar and cook again for a few seconds until reduced a little, then pour rn the veal Stock. Boil until reduced by half. check the seasoninq and set
aside

oz asparagus tips

in

a warm place.

2 x 300g/ 10%oz brill fillets, cut lengthwal': 4 longfillets

Blanch the spinach in lightly salted boiling warer until just wilted, drarn,

tablespoons oliue oil, plus

extrafor seruirt.i

return to the pan, offthe heat, with a little of the butter. Blanch the asparagus tips until just tender and return to their pan with the remaining butter. the brill, heat the oi1 in a hear,y-based saut6 pan set over a medium heat.Add the fillets, and cook for about 2 minutes on each side.
Season well, remove and keep warm.

Potato Rdsti (page 94) (optional)

sea

salt and;freshly ground black pepper

7 To cook

8 Reheat the brandade over a iow heat in a saucepan. Arrange the spinach in a mound on each warmed plate. Place a fil1et of bril1 on top of each mound. Reheat the asparagus if necessary and arrange around the edges.
Nappe (coat) the fish

with the

sauce,

trickling a little over rhe vegetabres

as

weli. Spoon one-quarter of the brandade on top of each fir1et. Fina1ly, dribble over a little olive oil and serve. If you Like, garnish with a tiny potato Rosti.

j+.{

*-'+ 'ii.:ll ,.;l;i: ;i',

s +.tt +i.3 ;" ii $ $

,$.1t-..

FISH AND SEAFOOD II9

:illets of John Dory with pommes ',, : e te rre ec rasees

- \G

THE EARLv sut4MER,wHEN Jrnsev

Rovnl

porAToES ARE AT THETR

INGREDIENTS (for 4)
100g/3'y'oz Tbmato Concasse (page 97) plus

T IS GOOD TO

CRUSH THEIY AFTER COOKING WITH

MIXTURE OF
I

: otL, FRESH ToMATo AND GREEN HeRes. THts ls nruorgeR torn

'.:D
FRoM tvlylt'1E tN PnRtsnNo

teaspoons

;for the

sauce

lrouNo tr

MADEAWoNDERFUL BASE
sERVED

1 tablespoon Shallot Conft (page 94) 4 x 200g/7oz John Dory Jillets, skinned 600.q/1lb 5oz Jersey Royals or otherJine baby netu
potatoes, utashed and scrubbed

'
:

fELIcATE DtAtyoNDS

oF

pAN-FRtED

JoHN Donv,

wtrH

oF

FREsH

ToMATo AND BALSAMIc vINEGAR coNcASsE.

lr

rs nrso

.'

:ULARLY GOOD SERVED ON ITS OWN AS

SUMMER SALAD WITH A

--

MrorreRnANEAN ToucH.

tablespoons oliue oil cup

609/2'loz/',4
,r'e ready the

pitted black
chiues

oliue.s, chopped

Tomato Concasse and Shallot Confit for the main dish,

209/Zoz thopped

rr

FreshTomato Pur6e andVegetable Nage for the sauce. Set aside.

1 tablespoon each of chopped basil, tarragon

and coriandet .juice oJ
sea

.:r each fish fil1et into 3 long strips then cur rhese into 5cm/2i.n
.rnd shapes; set aside

in the refrigerator.

'l

lemon

,rl the potatoes in their skins for about 12 minutes or until just ten-

salt and.fl,eshly ground black pepper

.)rain and leave for a few minutes until cooi enough to handle. Peel

.till rv.rrm and pJrce in r largc bou l.

:ntly heat 2
:l.re potatoes,

FORTHE SAUCE:
a small saucepan then pour

tablespoons of the olive

oil rn

teaspoons FreshTbmato

Purle (page 97)

crushing them lightly rvith a fork to form a chunky pr-rr6e.

200m1/7J1 oz/% cup Vegetable Nage (page 13)

' ' ;- L'lr

+L^ ^L^^^^d olives, the Tomato Concasse, Shaliot Confit, half

1 teaspoon balsamic uinegar 7 tablespoort chopped basil

ropped chives. the other fi'esh herbs and the lemon juice. Season lightly,

care as the olives

rvill

afTect

the seasoning. Cover and keep warm.

.:r all the sauce ingredients, includine the

teaspoons of Tomato

.rsse and the remaining chopped chives and olives, into a small
rp;rn and set this aside until you f,re ready to heat and serve it.

irat the remaining 3 tablespoons of olive oil in a large non-stick or -reasoned frying pan. Fry the John Dory 'diarlonds' for about 2-3 .rtes or until just cooked and golden brown, turning once.
- .ing a scone cutter, about 6cn/2%in in diameter, press the potato :r,rre into rounds on warm dinner plates. Stack the fish on top, over:rrq the pieces ;rtrractively.

.lring the

sauce ingredients to the

boil and spoon around

each fish and

' ,:o mound. Serve at orrce.

I20 FISH AND SEAFOOD

Escalope of salmon with sweet and sour PePPer sauce

A o'ttctous, LrcHT
MA,N MEAL

cHrcoRy

MAKES

FrNE

AccoMpANTMENT

TO THE FULL FLAVOUR OF SALMON AND LOOKS SPECTACULAR WHEN SERVED wrrH THE vTBRANT coLouRs oF THE pEppER sAUcE.Asr vouR rrsg_
MONGER

INGREDIENTS (for 4)
500m1/18J1
609 / 2%oz

oz/2

cups Vegetable Nage (page

/% stick butter

TO CUT THE SALMON

ESCALOPES FROM THE THICKEST

END OF A

red peppers, cored and

SKINNED SALMON FILLET.

finely

chopped

2 yellow peppers, cored and jnely chopped

6 shallots, finely chopped
1 sprig each of tarragon, cheruil, basil and

I 2

Have ready theVegetable Nage and set aside.

Heat one-third of the butter in a medium saucepan and gently sweat

1 bay leaf

the peppers and shallots with the herb sprigs and the bay reaf for about 10 minutes or until softened.

j
I

tablespoons

Noilly prat

3 Stir in the Noilly prat and cook uncovered until reduced down to about 1 tablespoon of graze. Add the vinegar and about rlomt/
%

teaspoon white wine uinegar

4 medium heads chicory 100g/4oz/% cup

4
caster sugar

pint/% cup of thevegetable Nage. simmer gently for about 20 minutes

aside.

x 2009/7oz

or untii softened. Remove and discard the herbs: set

salmon escaloltes

to 180"c,2350"F,/Gas Mark 4. core the chicory heads carefully with a small, sharp knife and roil in the sugar. 5 Heat another third of the butter in a heavy-based frying pan with

sea

salt and lemon juice

Preheat rhe oven

- suitabre for the oven. Add the heads of chicory and cook until they turn golden brown and caramelize. pour over
the remaining stock so that
aside

heatproof or removabre handles

it half covers the chicory then transfer to

is

the
Set

oven and cook for about 9 minutes or until the chicory

just tender.

in

a warm place.

Raise the oven setring

to 200"c/400"F/Gas Mark 6. prace the

salmon

escalopes

in

lightly

greased pan

for about 10 minutes until pink

or ovenproof dish and roast in the oven and just firm.

To serve, reheat the sauce gentry and whisk in the last of the butter. Reheat the chicory if necessary. Season the salmon to taste with salt

and

lemon juice, then arrange with the chicory on warmed plates and pour the sauce around. Serve immediately.

Kssw xwgww .K sw Kwwwss& $&eif

FISH AND SEAFOOD I23

I casted baby lobster with jus citrus

:.
TREAT, THIS DISH COMBINES DELICATE LOBSTER

WITH A TWIST

OF

INGREDIENTS (for 2)
Court-bouillon (page 16) or salted tuater,Jor
poaching

::Gl'4ENTS, AND YOU

DON'T NEED

PERFECTLY SHAPED LOBSTERS.

e:rdv the

Court-bouillon (if using), theVegetable Nage, the homeset aside.

100g/3%oz homemddeThgliatelle (page 291 or

-fresh ready-made

:hrtelle and the Candied Orange Peel (if using) and

.. the lobsters, lay each one on a board stomach downwards, then

2 liue baby lobsters, each

100-5009/11-1602

weighing about

'''ttlt ,,,.'.,,,""s'. throrrrlr

rhe cros. mark on its skull

.::rte. Pour Court-bouillon or salted

\vi'L 'L^ ';^ ^r ' l'*^^ water into a large saucepan.

200g -oz young aspnragu,

40g/ 1%oz /% stick butter

riys

- tLrst enough to cover the lobsters. Bring to the boi1. :c the lobsters into the sirnmering water and cook for 1 minute. -. a11ow to cool until comfortable enough to handle rvith a tea
r.'n slice each lobster in half lengthr,va,vs thror-rgh the stomach shell

12 baby leeks, whole, or 6 small, thin ones, halued

tablespoons oliue oil

-:r

it out flat. Cut olf the clarvs. Rernove

the mear carefulll' from

FORTHE JUS CITRUS:

2

,nd clarvs. Discard the entrails and shells but reserve the heads for
: irh,

00m1/

7J1

z/

cup Wgerable Nage (page

13

if liked. Place the lobster meat in the refrigerator to firm

up.

x quantity Candied
(optional)

Orange Peel (page 187)

::ri'hi1e, make the sauce: cut the peel and

'.

pith fron the citrus fruits, then

1

.r'{ments each from the grapefruit and orange, and tr,-o each from the

pink grapefruit
onange

.:,J lirne. Work over a bowl ro carch rhe juice:. Squeeze rhe unseg: 'r,u'ts of the fruits for their juice and combine rvith the saved jurces. :heVegetable Nage until reduced by half.Add 2 tablespoons of the

1 lemon
1
LIWIE

-rces and simmer for a further 2-3 rninutes. Gently r,vhisk

in

the

1 tablespoon. chopped cheruil

*lrents until they dissolve into tiny cells. Set aside and keep tvarm.

4 basil
sea

leaues, cut into Jine

julienne strips

i
-':r

the asparagus tips and leeks together in salted water untiljust ten-

salt and gtound white pepper

drain and return to the pan rvith one-third of the butter to glaze.

:r .r little of the leftover citrus juice for flavour. Boil and drain the .lle. glaze with anothcr third of the butter and keep lvarm.
. the oil in a iarge, non-stick pan. Season the lobster meat then'roast'

rnert on the top of the stove for about 6-8 minutes, adding the clau'
rlnvav thror-rgh.Turn frequently to caramelize the flesh evenly.

.rve. roll theTaghatelle into a spiral around a fork and place in the cen-

nrrrn plrte. Slice the tail nrear and pl.rce orer rhc paita. rhcn trrange
.\' meat to each side. Garnish

with the asparagus and leeks. Reheat

the

:rd rvhisk in the remaining butter. Stir rn the chervil, check the season-

i coat the lobster. Garnish rvith basil and Candied Orange Peel if using.

,, :::' Il
',.. ,:,

,ti

.---{d

best sales

of meat and poultry 6re in the autumn and tuinter when our
too

t0tfierS .;ttse

prefer a fttore substantial main course. Came is a gredt;fauourite

its short

sedson giues such a burst o;f exciternent, especially uenison, which

:ts from Scotland and

is hung to a dark rwby red. We serue medallions of

sauce.

,,lle meat with ctn exotic dark chocolate and raspberry uinegar
Our
bee;f

is;from Scotland, too, and is only admitted into my kitchens after it

lteen hungfor at least three and a half weeks,

Fillet of bee;f and oxtail are our

and

:ttrite cuts - theformerfor a light pdn-roasting, the latterfor cooking Iong

Irtoly until the meat falls edsily from the bone for shredding and wrapping
cr6pinettes. O;ffal, too, is a personal;fauourite and a challenge, tempting me into an
':'enturous m0od which might result

in my dusting

sweetbreads

with curry pow-

'

nnd seruing them with a Sduternes s6uce. Duck foie gras) a somewhat unique
ttr o;f

olfol,

Lue use

melted into sauces - wonderful with chicken!

Our birds (chicken and pigeon) come;from Bresse in France.These

cook

rhe poch6-grtII6 way, part poaching to moisten, then roasting to render down
L

-fat and to crisp and flauowr the skin.

MtAT, CAME ANlr Pt)[ l ll(\

127

;illet of beef with braised oxtail

*:ESTIC RECIPE HAS

NUMBER OF DIFFERENT ELEMENTS: PERFECTLY

INGREDIENTS (for 4)

:] SLICES OF FILLET OF BEEF NESTLING ON SPINACH AND A , ecrATo Rosrr, A BRtcHT LAyER oF Cnenveo pnnsley, vEGETABLE .-:S AND AN UNUSUAL ACCOMPANII'IENT OF CREP/NETTE OF BRAISED - - Tlnr's Nor ALL: THE wHoLE DtsH ts ENHANCED wtrH A RICtr
:,.!VOURED.

FORTHE BRAISED OXTAIL:

1 whole oxtail, about 1kg/2lb
chopped in pieces

loz in ueigltr,

' x 75rl bortle good red tuine

1 sprig thyrne

""

le SAuce rHAT HAS THE DtslNcloN

SECRET

oF BEING LtcHT I
REDUCE
SYRUPY

yET

1 bay lea;f TO THtS SAUCE

rS

--: .:

TWO-FOLD: rtnsT,

A WHOLE
SEC-

about 5 tablespoons oliue oil

OF WINE RIGHT DOWN UNTIL

.JSE

IT IS DEEP AND

AND,

2 carrots, coarsely cltopped

1 onion, coarsely chopped
1 litre / 1% pints / 1% cups Veal Stock (page
1

COMBINATION OF TWO STOCKS

.:; THAN oNE. IF|ND tFTHATVenI Srocr ts usED oN trs owN,THE .-:\T sAUCE ts roo slcKy.you wtLL NEED To srART THls REctpE .. I z DAyS lN ADVANCE, BUT DoN'T BE pur orr. Mosr oF THE ELE_ -: CAN BE MADE AHEAD THEN PULLED TOGETHER IN TNIUYPU!
:.\ATIVELY, YOU COULD SIMPLIFY THIS RECIPE BY SERVING THE STEAK *

- CHICKEN AND VEAL _

61

caulfat
sea

(see Clossary,

page 188)

salt and freshly ground black pepper

FORTHE REDWINE SAUCE:

500m1/18J1

JT THE OXTAIL, AND OFFERING AS ACCOIYPANIIYENTS POTETO PUNEC

oz/2

cups

Chicken Stock (pa,qe 18)

" ,

95) nNo CRrnNe

o pnRslry.

500m1/18J1oz/2 cups Wal Stock (page 16)

I .u -5rl
:rt 1y' days before you intend serving the dish, marinate the oxtail: put
about

botrle

p,'d

red winc

tablespoons oliue oil

-:cs into a bor,vl and cover with the half-bottle of red

'i rhyme and the bay leaf. Cover the surface r,vith cling fi1m, fitting it -: the oxtail rather than the rim of the borvi and holding the meat in
:'e'eath the wine with
a

'vine.Add

the

8 shallots, sliced
bee;f

trimmings taken from the.fillet of beef

12 black peppercotns
1 sprig thyme
1 small bay leaf

rveight.This rvill ensure the oxtail takes on

: :rch colour.Transfer to the refrigerator to marinate for 2,1 hours. r::r the fillet of the side'chain'and tail end so that you have a neat :,.rrl rnxl need to remove the shiny siner,v as well, or ask the butcher
rhis.'Wrap the fillet tightly

1 tablespoon sherry uinegar

in cling film

and chill overnight. This

FORTHE FILLET OF BEEF:

1 whole.fillet oJ beeJ weighing ahout 5009/ 1tb 5oz

. ieep it round. Chop the trimmings roughly and set aside separately. :r.,r'e ready the Chicken and Veal Stocks. prepare, and set aside. the

1 tablespoon. oliue oil

1

.:J Baby Onions and the Creamed parslev. '':xt make the Redwine Sauce. Boil dor,vn the bottle of red rvine until
..rd to about
.4,:

59 /',402

/ 1 tablespoon butter

100m1,/3%fl oz/% cup. Meanwhile, rn a separare salrcepan,

:ii'l:r
aii

.it:

::,:
.::'

"

,:l.lr,

;
!.
a

a -.

I28 MEAT, GAME AND POULTRY

heat 2 tablespoons of oil and saut6 the shallots, the reserved beef trimmings

TO GARNISH: 24 Clazed Baby On.ions

%

and the peppercorns, thyn-re and bay leaf, until the shallots are nice and
caramelized. Deglaze the pan with the sherry vinegar, stirring until evaporated.

(page 93)

x quantity Creamed

Parsley (pdge 100)

Pour in the reduced red wine 'syrup', ail of the Chicken Stock and onethe Veal Stock.

4 Potdto Ri;sti (page 94)

1

third of
a ladle

Bring to the boil then simmer for about 20 min-

59 / %oz

/ 1 tablespoon butter
o;f

utes or until reduced by one-third, skimming a few times in between with

1009/3%oz wild or brown mushrooms 100g/3,/zoz young spinach

leaues

your

clt

to remove any scum.

aside.

6 7

Pour through a sieve lined with wet muslin or a clean tea towel at least When the oxtail has marinated sutliciently, remove it from its marinade

tablespoons double cream

twice to remove all the particles. Check the seasoning and set
and pat dry

with kitchen paper towels. Reserve the marinade.

saucepan (e.g.

8 In an ovenproof
over

of

cast iron), heat about 3 tablespoons

of the oi1 and, when very hot, add the oxtail pieces and brown them all

- in fact until thev are almost blackened and well caramelized. This
to develop. Remove the oxtail pieces and wipe

process helps the flavour

out the pan with kitchen paper towels.

9 Add the remaining

2 tablespoons of oil to the pan and sweat the car-

rots and onions until softened. Add the reserved marinade and the Veal
Stock and boil down to reduce by halfto concentrate the flavour.

l0

Preheat the oven

to 180"C,/350"F,/Gas Mark 4. Place the oxtail in the

pan with the vegetables and reduced stock. Cover and braise in the oven for
2%-3 hours or until the meat is meltingly tender and starts ro leave the bone.

'With

slotted spoon, remove the oxtail and transfer to a dish. Reserve

the braising liquor.'When the meat is cool enough to handle, pull

it into

fine shreds and discard any fat, gristle and bones.

l2

Strain the braising liquor through a sieve ser over a bowl. Discard the

vegetables.

Return the braising liquor to the pan and set it over high heat

on the top of the stove. Boil down the liquor until it becomes very syrupy,
and has reduced to about 300n1/% pint/ 1% cups. This

will be the bindrirg

so

agent for the oxtail shreds. Check the seasoning, then gradually add just enough of the reduced liquor, a small amount at a time, to the shreds that they bind together. Make sure the mixture is only just bound and nor

too wet.You should have about one-third of the reduced liquor ieft for
reheating later.

l3 Chill the bound oxtail mixture until firrn, then divide it into

four

round balls ready to be wrapped in caul fat. In the restaurant we sometimes divide the mixture into a larger number of baby crlpinettes for each
serving but the wrapping process is quite time-consuming. Alternatively,

if

you don't intend to use caul fat, shape the mixture into 4 litt1e patties.

MEAT, GAME AND POULTRY I29

tf Iiyou are going to use caul fat, soak it in cold water to remove any :r :s of blood. unravel it gently to avoid tears then pat it dry. Take an
r:-irl ball and wrap it in
a

COOKING STEAKS
WHEN ASKED How LoNG I
WITH THIS HINT: CHECK BY

LEAVE

THE FINGERTIP TEST

srEAKsro cooK, I
REpLy

piece of caul fat large enough to contain it with

{ -'. overlap.Twist the overlapping caul fat tightly underneath the ball. i r:s.rt with the remaining oxtail balls. Leftover caul fat can be frozen.for
-,.: r:r another recipe.

PRESSING

THE TOP OF THE STEAK

wtrH youR rtNcen ttps.TtvtNGs

DEpEND oN THE THlcKNEss

OF THE STEAK AND WHETHER IT NEEDS TO BE VERY RARE OR

I l)repare the Potato Rcisti for the garnish, and set aside, uncovered, rn - ir:m place.They wili remain crisp. ll Reheat the Glazed Baby Onions and the Creamed parsley, makrng ;': lhe latter is light and creamy. Reheat the Red Wine Sauce. l? In a saut6 pan, heat half the butter for the garnish untii itJusf stops
I 1

veotuty.Wltg

RARE

srEAKs,youR

FINGERS

sHouLD ALMosr

SINK INTO THE STEAK WITH VIRTUALLY NO BOUNCE AS IT

coors. Meorull sTEAKS wtLL HAVE A

AND
BE

sLtGHT coMEBAcK
srEAKs

A LtrrLE BouNcy. MED|UM To WELL-DoNE

wrLL

FEEL FIRMER BUT

slLL

HAVE

A LtrrLE

spnrNc.

Werr-

.::ring and quickly saut6 the mushrooms until liehtlv cooked. Set

aside

DONE STEAKS

NO COMMENT!

-:-: keep warm.

I

tslanch the spinach leaves for about 1 minure or unril jusr wirted, then
squeeze dry

::;.:r and

in

a ciean tea towel. Reheat

in

a small pan

with the

-:.lrn then season to

taste.

ll
::

ll.eheat the reserved oxtail braising liquor. It should have a syrupy con_

" ilnc)'. If

it looks too thick, then let it down with a little

in this liquor for about
crlpinettes

stock. Simmer

in the with a slotted spoon and take offthe caul fat r;'.rng a lacy pattern.This is a process we always do in the Aubergine for - ':ccial touch, but you can leave the caul fat on ifyou prefer. lO You are now ready to pull all the elements together for serving. :..:. Remove the "-::rove the wrapped fillet of beef from the refrigerator and take ofT the -::s film. Cut the fillet across into four equal-size rounds of steak. Heat a ;:,espoon of oil in a heavy-based frying pan, add l5g/%oz/1 tablespoon
:r-::er and, when

: irrtail

crtpinettes

5 minutes, stirring lightly

it

starts to foam, add the steaks and pan-fry them accord-

:::

ro taste. In the restaurant we prefer them to be medium cooked (right).

Place each Potato Rcisti on a small mound of creamed spinach

ll r:

in the
each

.,rrre of each large warmed plate. Put a steak on each potato Rcisti, shape Creamed Parsley

into quenelles (page I73) and place one on

r---rk.

Arrange the oxtail cripinette, the Glazed Baby Onions and saut6ed

:-,;ihrooms around the steak. Drizzle the Red'wine Sauce over the steak. :*etables and the oxtail to glaze. Serve in triumph!

MEAT, C]AME AND POULTRY I3I

/enison with chocolate sauce

,: "ED VENISON
.,AL
IS ONE OF THE UNSUNG SUCCESS STORIES OF MODERN

INGREDIENTS (for 4)
4009/ 14o: canttt, tut into
l cnt /

HUSBANDRY.

IT IS LEAN,

TENDER MEAT, NATURALLY REARED AND

l Low tN SATURATEo rnr. '- ir wlLL suPPoRT

.:-roN

/irt

dice dice

BrcnusE vENtsoN ts

FULL_FLAV.,RED

100g/ 11oz celeriac, tr.tt int,:t lotr/%irt

AN ASSERTIVE sAUCE,wHrcH rN THrs cAsE rs A coM-

300g/1002 sutoked bacon, tut into jun/%in dite

5 0g /

oF rHE Ot_o AND THE New

Wonlo:

RED

wtNE, RAspBERRy vtNE_

.: AND Venl Srocr REDUCED RIGHT DowN AND FLAVouRED . :iNAL Azttc FAsHtoN wtrH DARK, BtrrER cHocoLATE.
.

2oz /

% stick buuer into thin julienne strips

tN

THE

% small Sauoy c6[[6gr, cut

200m1/7fl
1

oz/l

cup double cream

150g/5oz Jillet of uenison steaks, trimmed

' 'rake the sauce, have ready the veal Stock. Using a large sallcepan, '- rhe shallots and garlic in the 25gl1oz/z sttck of butter, along with the
:.e. bay

1 tablespoon oliue oil

sea

sdlt dnd.freshly ground black pepper

leaf and peppercorns, until nicely caranelized and

softer-reci.

r:qlaze u''ith the raspberry vinegar then por-rr in the wine and boil until

FORTHE SAUCE: 2 litres/3% pints/9

1
cups

'

r'educed to about 100mI/3'/2fl oz/% cup and is syrupy

in

consistency.

:.Jd theveal Stock arrd boil until reduced by three-quarters to about

Wal

Stock (page 1d)

500g/1Ib 2oz shallots,

cloues

coarsely chopped

I ptnt/2% cups. Pour the sauce through a fine sieve set over a bowl, .':re ge'tly r'vith the back of a lad1e. Return the sauce to the pan. Stir .: chocolate until it melts, reheatinl very gently if necessary, but tak'-tI/

garlic, un.peeled and crushed

25q/1oz/% stick butter

sprigs thyme

..rre not to let the sauce boil. Check the seasoning.

t
2 2
1

hay Leaf
tedspoons black peppercorns teaspoons raspberry uin.egar

, prepare the vegetables, in another saucepan gently saut6 the carrots, :r,rc and bacon in the 50g/2oz/% stick of butter r-rntil golden bror,vn.

: half of this mixture in a separate pat and sct aside.Add '.rl original pan and continue cooking for a further 3_,1
-.1uce

the cabbage

75cl hottle red wine

)r,rin the br-rtter from the cabbage mixrure and add the cream. Boil briskly

'rin'tes.

,l0g/ 1%oz dark, biuer chocolate, broken into

small pieces

by half until lightly thickened. check the seasoning and set aside ':'iheat the oven to 220"c/425"F,/Gas Mark 7. Season the venison steaks

u'til well sealed about 3 rlinutes. cover with a butter paper or sheet of buttered " ,'eproof paper and roast in the oven fbr 4-5 r'inutes. l{emove and ser:-' to rest.At this stage rhe venison should be slightly pink inside.
er il-cheat the cabbage mixture and the reserved uncreamed vegetables sepa--r.

: rhe oil in an ovenproof saut6 pan and bror,vn the steaks

*,ill separate :poon the cabbage rnixture onto warmed plates. Slice rhe 'enison ,ks ard arrange these on top.Arrange the renrai'i'q'eqcr:rbrcs :r1-oll.cl
,reat. Nrappe (coat) the meat and vegetables *-irh srucc irlrl

(ient\

reheat the sauce,being careful not to let it boil or it

\lr\..

:lx

at:

,aa',

I32 MEAT, GAME AND POULTRY

Caramelized calf's sweetbreads with jus Sauternes

A poputnR
FR.M THE

cHorcE AT THE AuerRcrNs BUT RAREL' EATEN AT THE DoMESTT.

TNGREDTENTS (FOR 4)
4

TABLE, SwEETBREADS ARE srMpLE

To
'RE'ARE

AT HoME. Use

oNy

swEETBREADs

150g/5%oz cal;f\ sweetbreails (2 pairs)

.LAND, soMETrMEs KNowN As rHE HEARTBREAD'. TgERe 'ANCREAS IS NO NEED TO BLANCH THEM, ALTHOUGH THIS IS OFTEN RECOMMENDED
SUPPOSED EASIER

tablespoons oliue oil

FOR

1 teaspoon mild curry powder 1 teaspoon sea salt

SKINNING:A SHARP FILLETING KNIFE IS JUST AS EFFECTIVE.

To make the sauce, have ready the chicken Stock. pour the Saurernes into a srrall saucepan and boil down until reduced by harf. Add the Chicken Stock and boil down again to reduce by half. 2 using a thin, sharp filleting knife, remove the rnembrane from the sweer_ breads, sliding the knife under the membrane and working the k'ife away
from you in a sawing action. preheat the oven to 200"C/400"F/Gas Mark 6. 3 Heat the oil in a hear'ry-based frying pan over a medium heat and brown the sweetbreads for about 4-5 minutes on each side, or untir caramerizecl
and golden brown. Sprinkle over the curry powder and salt while cookrng. 4 Remove from the heat, cover each sweetbread with a butter paper or

2009/7oz c(irrots, cut into thin bdtons

strips

or

julit,

100g/3%oz/1

stick unsalted butter

leaves

200g/7oz young spinach

about 24 shallots, peeled

759/3oz girolles

FORTHE SAUCE:
75ml/2'/,J1 oz/% cup 2 tablespoons Chickut Stotk (page 181, plus :l tablespoonJor the ::
75tnl/272J1 oz/% cup

buttered greaseproof paper and transfer to the oven. cook for about mnutes or until firm. Renrove and set aside in a warm place,
sti11

tablespoons Sauterttt,

or other sweet white tuine

covered.

the carrors with one-quarter of the r0r)g/3%oz/l stick butter and enough water to barely cover them until just cooked and firm - about 5 minutes.The water should have armost evaporated. Season, and keep warm.

5 cook

259/1oz/%sticle unsalted butter, chilled and

sea

,;

salt and jeshly ground black pepper

5 cook

the spinach in another quarter of the butter and 1 tablespoon of Chicken Stock or water, until jusr wilted. Drain, season and keep warm.

in another quarter of the butter, turning frequently until soft and golden brown. Remove and drarn. 8 Add the remaining quarter of the butter to the same pan and saut6
the

7 ln a hear,y-based

pan, cook the shallots gently

girolles for a few minutes until just softened. Remove and drain. 9 To finish the sauce, reheat until just boiling. Taste for seasoning and whisk in the 25g/ 1oz/% stick of chilled and diced butrer.
|

Squeeze dry the spinach

in

a clean tea towei and place a mound

in the

top of each then crown with rhe carrots. Place the shanots and girolies around the sweetbreads. Reheat the sauce and rvhisk to a froth with a Bamix (see page 1g9 for supplier) or
a

centre

of

each warmed plate. Arrange a sweetbread on

hand-held electric multi-brender. pour around the sweetbreads.

MEAT, GAME AND POULTRY I35

lump of lamb NiEoise

] .
5E DISHES ARE BRIGHT AND COLOURFUL WITH STRONG, GUTSY lJRs oF pEppERS, cARLtc, ToMAToEs AND oLrvES. Cor,,rgrNt sucu

INGREDIENTS (for 4)
700m1/1% pints/3 cups Ldmb Stock (page 17)

'':) OF LAMB, ASK YOUR BUTCHER TO CUT THTCK BONELESS CUTLETS " rHE END OF A SADDLE OF LAMB WHERE tT JOTNS THE LEG.
r ,. L'

":\TS WITH PLUMP LAMB ROASTED UNTIL IT IS JUsT TENDER AND YoU : A DtsH THAT TRULy REFLECTs rHE vtBRANcy or pRovrNce.

teaspoons each o;f chopped bdsil and tarrctgon

o;f larnb each weighing about

Fon

4 boneless rumps 250g/9oz

409/1%oz/% stick melted clari;fied buuer or

2
ready the Lamb Stock, potato Rristi, Glazed Baby Onions and
::cd Aubergine Slices.
'.rrepare the Nigoise garnish, cut the courgettes
sea

tablespoons oliue oil

100g/ j%oz/% cup black oliues, pitteil and halved

salt and Jreshly ground black pepper

rnto 1cmlZrin thick FORTHE NtgotsE GARNTSH: 4 x Potato Rdsti (page 9l)
24 21 2

;
T
'

I)ip the romatoes briefly in boiling water, skin, deseed and cut them .ruarters. Pick off the tips of the sprig of thyme to form little

:.i'
:,1

xnd chop the rosemary.

a

medium saucepan and lightly saut6 the courgettes along :he thyme 'flowers' and chopped rosemary for about 6 minutes or ust softened. Remove
ror.vels. Saut6 Season

the oil to

x x

Candied Aubergine Stices (page 1g0)

Glazed Baby Onions (page 93)

courgettes tomatoes

with a slotted spoon and drain on kitchen the tomato quarters until just softened, remove and.

4 ripe

the saut6ed vegetables and set aside together in a warm place. irrake the sauce, boii down the Lamb Stock by about two-thirds. Stir . chopped basil and tarragon. Check the seasoning.

2 large sprigs each of tlryme and rosemary 100m1/3'/'fl oz/% cup oliye oil

iook the lamb, first preheat the oven to j,90"C/375"F,/Gas Mark 5. lhe clarified butter or oil in a cast_iron frying pan and brown the '-rolnts all over.tansfer the pan to the oven and roast for g_10 min_ I{emove the meat, season it and leave to rest, covered tn a warm

'

., tor about 5 minutes.

:.c the rumps thinly. place a potato Rosti in the cenrre of

each

::ed plate and arrange slices of lamb on each. Distribute the saut6ed :.rbles, the Glazed Baby Onions, the halved olives and the Candied

-rqine Slices around them. Spoon the sauce over the lamb
:.rbles and serve.

and

'' *i}9uweyf,wffirusrffiffiffiswq'

3'

I36 MEAT, GAME ANI) POULTRY

Koast best encl ot lamD wltn Puy le nti ls

Lnma ts ALWAyS A popuLAR cHotcE oN ouR MENU, AND THls ls A PRETTY

e I

..1

INGREDIENTS (for 2)
300m1 /%

DtsH FoR LATE sPRtNG wHEN NEW LAMB ls AT

lrs

BEST.

ltnrce wrll-

pint/1%

cups

Lamb Stock (page 1,

TRII'4MED FILLETS FROM THE BEST END OF THE LAMB

AND

ROLL THEM IN

2 x Potato Rdsti (page 94)

%

CHOPPED FRESH HERBS BEFORE ROASTING AND SLICING.

x quantity Glazed Baby Onions

(page 931

1 00g / 3

%oz Tomato Concasse (page 97 )

Have ready the Lamb Stock, Potato Rosti, Glazed Baby Onions and

50g/2oz/% cup Puy lentils, sodked ouernight

1 Bouquet Carni (page 18)
1 sntall onion, peeled and halued 1 small carrot, peeled
40g

Tomato Concasse. Boil the Lamb Stock until reduced by two-thirds. Set aside.

with the Ilouquet Garnr, onion and carrot. Cover lvith fresh lvater, bring to the boil, then turn down to a simmer and cook for about 15-20 minutes until just tender.

2 Drain

the lentils, then place

in

a saucepan

1%oz /

% stick butter
fine julienrtc

Drain, remove the Bouquet Garni, onion and carrot then set

aside.

50g/2oz

Sauoy cabbage, cut into

3 In a smal1 pan, melt half the butter and sweat the cabbage 4 5

for 2 minutes
aside.

about 8 small asparagus spedrs 1 whole best end oJ lamb 7 teaspoon each

or until just wilted, stirring occasionall,v. Mix with the lentils and set

Blanch the asparagus in a 1ittle boiling rvater for 2 minutes, then drain,

offnely

chopped cheruil, bastl.

refresh

in cold water, drain again and set

aside.

chiues an.d parsley

Preheat the oven to 200"C/400oF/Gas Mark 6. Cut the meat from both

1 tablespoon olive oil

sea sdh and;fieshly

sides

of the best end of larnb and trinr into neat fillets (we call these can-

ground black pepper

nons).

Mix together the

herbs, setting aside about 2 teaspoons for the sauce. herbs, making sure they are evenly coated.

Roll the cannons in the remaining

Heat the oi1 in an ovenproof saut6 pan and fry the cannons quickly on all

sides

to

seal,

then cover the meat with a butter paper or some buttered grease-

proof paper. Roast in the oven for 5-6 minutes or until the cannons are just

pink in the centre. Remove and set aside u'ithout removing the paper.

Reheat the Potato Rcisti in the oven and the Glazed Baby Onions in a pan

(they won't need additional liquid). Return the Lamb Stock to the boil, add

the reserved herbs, check seasoning and whisk in half the remaining butter.

Using the last of the butter, reheat the lentils and cabbage in one pan and
each

the asparagus in another. Place a 7.5cnt/3in cutter in the centre of

Remove the cutters and place a Potato Rosti on top of each mound.

warm plate and spoon in the lentil and cabbage mixture, patting down lightly.

Cut the lamb into neat slices and place on the Rcjsti.Arrange the Glazed

Baby Onions,Tomato Concasse and asparagus around the lentils and lamb.

Bring the

sauce

just back to the boi1, nappe (co*) the lamb with about

spoonful and spoon the rest over the vegetables. Serve immediately.

.,$X *.p rrx s:

$* *,: -,6:

*. *r $ d

I38 MEAT, GAME AND POULTRY

Roast rump of veal with saut6ed cdpes

A
stmpu, pAN-RoAsrED DtsH oF A Jutcy RUMe oF vEAL, sLtcED tNTo
AND
SERVED

INGREDIENTS (for 4) 2
tablespoons Shallot

MEDALLTONS

wtrH

SAUTEED cEpEs

AND LIGHT venl jus. Asr A ROASTING CUT

USE

Confit (page 94)

YOUR BUTCHER FOR

SIMILAR

PIECE OF VEAL TOP RUMBWHICH IS

1 tablespoonTbmato Concasse (page 97) 200m1/7Jl oz/',4 cup Veal Stock (page 16)

TO

BEEF

TOP RUMBTHEN CUT IT INTO TWO LONG PIECES AND

KITCHEN STRING TO TIE EACH INTO NEAT ROLLS.

4 Potato Ri;sti (page 94)

8009/1lb 12oz top rump o;f ueal

Have ready the Shallot Confit, Tomato Concasse, Veal Stock and the

200g/7oz fresh cipes or other wild mushroons.

Potato Rcisti, and set aside.

3 2

tablespoons oliue oil teaspoons chopped chiues

leaues

2 Trim the meat of any fat and cut it iengthways into 2 strips, each vcry
approximately 15cm/6in long. Tie each of these inro long fillet shapes,

2009/7oz young spinach

tightening the string to neaten into a ro11. Preheat the oven ro

220" C

259/1oz/% stick butter

4 tablespoons ruby port

/ 425"F/Gas Mark 7.

Saut6 the cdpes or mushrooms

nrinutes

or until just

softened. Stir

in 2 tablespoons of the oil for about 5 in the Shallot Confit, the Tomato

sea

salt and;freshly ground black pepper

in a warm place. Blanch the spinach in a little boiling warer with half the butter, then drain well and keep warm.

Concasse and the chives. Season and set aside

4 5

the veal rolls and place on a roasting tin. Brush with the remaining oil. Roast for 10-12 minures or until lightly springy to the touch and just pink in the centre. 6 To make the sauce of veal jus, bring the Veal Stock to the boil
Season

with the port. Boil until reduced by one-third then check the seasoning.'Whisk in the remaining butter. 7 Arrange the spinach in a mound in the centre of each warmed plate,
together then place a Potato Rosti on top of each.

8 Untie the veal rolls and

slice each into about 5-6 medallions. placc

these on top of each Rcisti then arrange the garnish of saut6ed cdpes and

Tomato Concasse around the edge.

Spoon a little of the sauce over the veal then trickle the remainder over

the sarnish. Serve hot.

MEAT, GAME AND POULTRY I39

l'oulet Bresse poche-grille with

AIA

sau ce fo ie
INGREDIENTS (for 4)

gras
each

--s
:'-

sryLe oF HALF poAcHrNG AND HALF

He

GRTLLTNG

pouLTRy rs oFTEN

-1) FoR cooKrNG prcEoN tN FRnNce.

CKEN.

ne

HAVE ADApTED

rr

ro

surr

2 small Poulet Bresse or Jree-range chickens,

weighing about
9

THT VETHOO COMBINES POACHING THE rHE

MEAT Morsr,

FLESH

ON THE.BONE,

00g- 1kg / 2- 21/lb

'rL cH

KEEPS

wrrH

GRTLLTNG,

wHrcH

HELps

ro

RELEASE

-. FAT SO THAT THE MEAT IS JUST TENDER AND THE SKIN CRISPY. FON MT, -- BEST CHTCKEN rS tue Fntrucu pouLer Bnessr wrrH rrs CHARACTERTS_

250g/9oz homemadeThgliatelle fuage 29) or

Jresh ready-made

50g/2oz/% stick butter plus an extra knob

Jor

BLACK LEGS

AND FINE

FLESH.

POUIET

BNCSSE BIRDS

CAN BE FOUND IN
FREE-RANGE

finishing

JiI-AIN

SPECIALITY BUTCHERS, BUT YOU COULD USE

A GOOD

tablespoons oliue oil

rnf.TgC

CAPPUCCINO-STYLE SAUCE CAN BE SERVED AS IT IS, OR, FOR TRUE

3759/1joz

baby onions or shallots, peeled

leaues

&-8ERGINE srYLE, sKlM THE FRorH oNLY AND spooN ovER THE BREAsrs.

300g/10o2 baby spinach

100g/3%oz petits pois

I Have ready the Chicken Stock and set asidc. I t.ut off the legs and wings from the poulet Bresse or free-range chick:' These can be used for another dish, perhaps in a mid-week casserole. r::;e the breasts intact on the carcass ofeach chicken. t l: r'ou are using homemade tgliatelre, blanch for one minute, drain and
"* i.ide. For fresh ready-made, follow the pack instructions. I iJeat the butter and half the oil in a saut6 pan and gently fry the onions ,r 'hallots until lightly browned, shaking the pan
:" ::r rhe pan and set
aside.

100g/3%oz baby broad beans, unpodded

2 sprigs tarragon

FORTHE SAUCE:
2.5 litres/4%pints Chicken
1 bay leaf
1 sprig rosemary Stock (page 1g)

occasionally. Remove

7 carrot, roughly chopped

% medium onion, roughly chopped % celery stick, roughly chopped

Bl.rnch the spinach in a minimum of water,just enough to cover,for a r'n ieconds until wilted, then drain in a sieve and refresh under cold water

6 white peppercorns
2009 / 7oz fresh foie gras

irrest cooking and preserve the colour. Squeeze gently in a clean tea : .rrl or kitchen paper towels to dry. Set aside.

150m1/%pint/% cup double cream

tllanch the petits pois and the unpodded broad beans in separare pans ,: .-rlted boiling water. Drain. pod the broad beans and set aside both oeas
.:

259/1oz/% stick unsalted butter

squeeze of lemon juice
sea

beans

in a warm

place.

I \ow make the sauce. Preheat ::;s saucepan, put the Chicken

salt and freshly ground black pepper

the oven to its lowest temperature. In a Stock to boil along with the bay leaf,

- 'cnr3ry, carrot' onion, celery and peppercorns. Add the birds, ensuring

::: breasts are submerged in the stock. I rurn the heat down so the iiquid is at a very gentre simmer, with just :: occasional bubble, then cover and poach the birds for 10 minutes.

I :''

-l:nrove them, cover loosely in foii, and keep warm in the oven. Return the poaching stock ro the heat and boil rapidiy until reduced .rbout half. Strain through a fine sieve and reserve about,r00ml,u 1,lfl

..lZcups.Theremainingstockcanbeusedinanotherrecipeorfiozen.>

""

"*.sW$ffi,

I4O MEAT, GAME

AND POULTRY

ofT the heat, add the foie gras in pieces to the

re

served stock, stirring

until srnooth. Mix

i'

the cream and butter.Add a squeeze or two of fresh

lenron juice and season

to

taste. Heat

until just

o'

the point of boiling

then renove frorn the heat :rnd set

aside.

Meanwhile, preheat the grill uritil hot. Remove the birds fro'r the oven, unwrap them and cut the half-poached breasts fronr each carcass,
retaining the skin. Grill the breasts skir-r-side up for abor-rt 4 rninutes then, with a sharp knife, slash each breast diagonany a ferv times, wrap loosely

in foil and return to the oven to keep tvarnr.

l2
|

Heat the remaining oil

i'

a pan arrd brieflv fi-y the tarraeon leaves,

aside.

being careful not to burn them. Drain and set

Heat a k'ob of butter in a saut6 pan and qr-rickry rerreat the Tagliatelle,

the spinach and the onions or shaliots in quick succession. Rernove and keep u'arm in separate dishes. r\eheat the petits pois and beans if
necessary.

l4

To serve,u'ind a quarter of theTasliatelle arou'cl the prongs of a carv-

ing fork for each serving, then place in the centre of a large, r,varr' plate, or simplv pile into a r'or-rnd.Top each rvith a quarter of the spinach.
Arrange one slashed chicke'breast on top of each spinach mound, scr that it falls into a fan. Place the o'ions or shallots, petits pois and broad
beans around the chicken breast.

l5

Reheat the sauce and froth up u,ith a Barnix (see page r g9 for supplier) or a hancl-held electric multi-blender. Ideaily, spoon just the froth of

16

the sauce over the chicke' and serve the rest of the sauce Garnish with the fried tarragon leaves and serve at once.

separately.

'r,.,::,
..,i,i:.
:::..:.:

,:,

:ii

-a:

i|..,1. l,""

aaa-

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I42 MEAT. GAME AND POULTRY

Roast partridge on a bed of cabbage

GnMr erRos AND
CABBAGE wERE MADE

FoR EACH orHER.Tuts pRRrRtoce

SERVED

INGREDIENTS (for 2)
200m1

DrsH rs AN EASY ROAST AND, BECAUSE tT rS

vEGETABLES,

W|TH JUST

GREEN

/7,fl oz/% tup Broutn Chicken

Stock

tr

ts BorH LtcHT AND WITH THE

FLAVoURSoME.

Tgr

etRo ls cooKED

(page 18)

IN TWO

STAGES

BREAST

AND

LEGS REMOVED AFTER PAN-

1 tablcspoon oliue oil

1

ROASTING TO PREVENT OVERCOOKING.

800g/1Lb 12oz partridge, prepare

-for tltt

859/3oz/% stitk butter

rerdl tlrc Brorvrr Chickerr Sto,'k rrrd boil ro redrrcc by hrlf about I00n'i/3'/.fl oz/'l cup. Set aside.
H.rvc

ro

1
%

lar,ge

sprig thymc

smnll head Sauoy cabbage, weighing abottt

Prel-reat the oven to 220"C/125"F,/Gas Mark 7. Meanr,vhile, heat the

oil

250g/902, cut ir.tto.line julienne strips

12 baby leeks, tt'i.mnted and leJt whole 100g/3%oz wild mushrooms c.g. cipes or girolt slircd if large
sea

in an ovenproofsaut6 pan on top ofthe

stove and brorvlr the bird all over,

cooking and turning the bird for about 5 rnirrutes.

Place the pan

in the oven and roast until the partridge is only just done

and the meat still pink inside

usuallv 7-8 minutes. Remove and allow

r,r

salt and

jtshly ground black pepper

rhe bird to rc\t. prelerlhly covcrcd

irh r hutrcr p.rpcr or a shccr of

buttered greaseproofpaper. Keep the oven on.

4 Melt one-third
tossing r-rntil

of the butter and quickly sautc thc cabbage, stir:ring and

it starts to rvilt. I)ick the tips otTthe spriq of thynre - rve call thesc th1'nrc'florvcrs'- and sprinkle half over the cabbage as it cooks.

Season light11, and keep rvartl.

Blanch the leeks in a 1ittle boiling water, then clrain u'ell and toss in

knob oI the rcrrt.rirring buttcr. Kecp rvrrrrr.

5 Melt half of the renraining butter and

until just cooked. Season and keep rvarnt.

saut6 the mr.rshrooms quickl,v

Nor,n relnove the breasts and legs fr-orn the carcrss anc-l return them to

the pan. Discard the carcass. Cover the legs and breasts with the butter

prpcr or butter:ed greaseproof paper and return to tl-re hot oven for
further
:1

minutes.

8 9

Reheat the stock and stir in the retnaining thyme'flowers'and the last
sauce.

of the butter, r,vhisking to thicken the

To scrvc. puf thc crbbage in thc ccrrrrc of warnred plrrcr. Cur e.rch leg

in half and pl:rce on the cabbage, then cut the breasts into 6 slices and place
thesc on top

of the

leqs. Garnish round the or-rtside

lvith the leeks

and

nrurhroorrrs tttd ttappc (roat) rvith rhc s.rrrcc.

MEAT, GAME AND POULTRY I43

R,oas

t guinea fowl with broad beans and

as Pa ragu s
rs

raby
,
-

.'EA FowL

A FLAV.URS.ME ALTERNATT'E To cutcre N.We usE

B'RDS

INGREDIENTS (for 2) 400n1/14fl oz/1% ntps Chicken

150g/5oz Jresh baby broad beans
1

FnRrucr BUT A pRtME FREE-RANGE FowL wtLL BE eutrE AccEprABLE. s AN TDEAL DtsH To SERVEWHEN FRESH BRoAD BEANs, on rEves,nNo
USE

Stock (page 1g)

..G ASPARAGUS ARE IN SEASON. OUT OT SEASON,YOU CAN -QUALITY, FROZEN BROAD BEANS AND THIN ASPARAGUS.

7 x guinea-fowl u,eighing about 1.2 kg/2tb 12oz

YOUNG,

]f
::

5 0g / 5

oz young dspdrdgus

50g/2%oz/% stick buuer ivc ready the Chicken Stock and set aside.

I .

-.ove the legs

100g/3%oz wild mushrooms, sliced if ldrge

and wings from the guinea fowr and

trim

otT

the back

1 teaspoon chopped chetuil

sea

-. Leave the breasts intact on the carcass. Reserve the legs and wings.

::.g the Chicken Stock to a boil in a pan large enough to contain

'\dd the
breasts complete

sdlt and Jreshly ground black pepper

the

with their

carcass,

then cover ancr poach for

:: 6-7 minutes Remove the fowr from the stock and set aside to coor.
the sauce, add the wings and legs to the stock and boir it until - rd by half. Strain through a sieve. Discard the wings and legs and set

'ake

.,uce

aside.

i r |

.-r'ch the broad beans for about 2 minutes in boiling saited water. :.. and when cool enough to handle,pop them out of their skins.
- ..rrrch the asparagus for L-2 ninutes in boiling salted water, then drarn

..'t

aside.

:.:at about one-third of the butter and saut6 the mushrooms until just ,-rd; keep warm.

:rheat the oven to 220"c/ 425'F,/Gas Mark 7. cut the breasts from the ':.r fowl carcass, and discard the bones. Heat about two-thirds of the

,i.ing butter in an ovenproofsaut6 pan then cook the breasts skin-side ': for 2-3 minutes or until just crisp and lightly browned.

'-.rce the pan

: :'inutes. season, and let them

r rnto 5-6 pieces.

in the oven and continue to cook the breasts for about rest for a feu, minutes before srici'g

in about half of the re'raini'g '::r' Place the mushrooms in the centre of each warmed dinner plate. -,'ge the slices of guinea fowl on top and surround
u-ith the
br-oad

ll-e

heat the broad beans and asparagus

:.. and

asparagus.

I l{eturn the sauce to the boil,

check the seasoninq :L'rl srir

ir

the l.rsr .i

rutter and the chervil. Spoon over the nieat atrcl

I,cger,r[.1.,i..111ri

\.r\.c

MEAT, GAME ANI) POULTRY I45

3arbary ducl< with glazed peac h es

. - CK, SIMPLE MEAL USING
BREASTS

OF BARBARY DUCK, NOW READILY

INGREDIENTS (for 2)
100m1/1411 oz/1',4 cups

- ,{BLE

tN

LARGER SUpERMARKETs.

THry ARE

sERVED

wtrH

FRESH,

Wal Sntck (page 15)

] lYELIZED PEACHES, COOKED WITH

A HINT OF

FIVE-SPICE POWDER.

qunntirl, Candied Orange Peel (page 187)

85g/3oz/% stick butter

: .'.'e ready the Veal Stock

and Candied Orange Pee1, and set aside.

6 shallots, slircd
1 tedspoon lrcney

:-.rr one-third of the butter

in a saucepan and saut6 the shallots r.vith :,,ney and about half the five-spice por,r,,der until softened and
:Lized

'l scdnt tedspoon Ji.ue-spict powder

1 teaspoon sherry uineQar

about 7 minutes.

,. :.1

the vinegar and cook until evaporated. pour in the port and Madeira

200ntl/7-fl oz/% cup r,uby port

,il until the liqr,rid is syrupy and has reduced b1' about tr,vo-thirds.
'-.rJ the Veal Stock and boil for about 15 minutes or until redr_rced by

1)anil/3'/fl oz/'y' 2
a

cup Madeira

large yellow peaches, unskinned dnd halued with

::ien strain through a fine sieve, rubbing gentiy r.vith the back of
\cason this sauce and set aside.

the stones renroucd

'

1 teaspoon icing sugar

qlaze the peaches, sprinkle rvith the rernainder of the five-spice porv-

2 x 1509/5oz Barbdry duck

1509/5oz baby spinath
sea salt and _freslily
leaues

bredsrs

::J the icing sugar. Heat another third of the butter in a non-stick fry-

'rn and gently

r.

saut6 the peaches, colouring them all over. Take care not
place.

ground black pepper

ircook them. Set aside and reserve the pan jr_rices in a u.arm
iren vou are ready

to cook the duck

breasts, preheat the oven to

.
.,.

-125"F/Gas Mark 7. Score the fatty skin of the breasts; this ensures

:ire skin rvill become crispv rvhen cooked.

irhout using any oi1, heat a non-stick or heavy-based frying pan until
]rot. Add the duck breasts, skin-side dou,'n, and cook for about 3

min-

-olouring all over. In this

.,r-er the breasts

r,vay

the duck r,vill make its orvn fat. or buttered greaseproof paper and

with

a br-rtter paper

,. rn the oven for about 7-8 minutes, turning once or trvice. Remove ,llorv to rest for 3 minutes before slicing each breast into 8 slices.
.'r

hile the duck is resting, cook the spinach in a little water and
tou,e1s.

the

,rnrng butter for about one minute or until just u,'i1ted. Drlin rvel1, :zrng out lightly in a clean tea towel or kitchen paper
i)lace a spinach mound

in the centre of

each rvarnred plate and :lrranqe

.iiced dr,rck over and around each to make a pvranrid sh:rpe. Cr-rt each :r half
,n

in four'and

arrange on and around the dr.rck. Trrckle ovcr the

:r'ed pan juices. Return the sauce to the boil. check rhe se.rs.rii.q. :rrrrl

it

over and around the meat. Garnish rvith Canclic.l ()r,rngc

l)ttl.

' 'f"ri; '"'

:'.

.-,

i ,.r

':

. rruly

come aliue when

I talk about desserts. At the Aubergine the desseyt course it

look breathtaking.

tlte one we go out o;f our way with to make

'."ssert can

beautiful

riual the best art.I loue drawing and spend many hours with Damien,
are

't'Pastry Chef, playing around with designs. I like to think our clients
'.tited by desserts and see them
as

forbidden

fruits to be sauoured and enjoyed.

Ice-creams and sorbets giue me pleasure too. Owrs are

all made in

the

.:rchen, neuer bought in, and often serued fresh from churning.
.,0p of heauen to a larger quantity of Jactory-made mediocrity.

prefer a small

One of my first jobs at Le Cauroche was as a night baker, starting work

:: ntidnight, This is how I

',I-lten

learned the essential

basics

brioche, sabl6, sugar

:stry and so on, Many chefs fear pastry bwt, to me, it brings great satisfaction.

moued to Paris and the kitchens

of Guy

Sauoy,

worked alongside the

his

,illiant young talented Philippe Chapon and spent a great deal of tinte in
.ttion, perfecting my French as well as my skills.

In
:

the same way that a good stayter sets the standard

for a great meal, so

superb dessert represents the climdx

- it's the high spot on which our clients

.-tlt) uS

with hoppy, glowing memories and intentions to retwrn.

I48 DESSERTS

Tatin of pears
THe sroRy or rue Tntrru srsrERs AND THErR FAMous
DowN
AppLE TARTs rs

upsrDE-

INGREDIENTS (makes one 2lcm/9in tar:

wELL

rcNowu.Ttr

SAME tDEA

woRKs EeuALLy wELL

'l x quantity (250g/9oz)

(page 25)

homemade PulJ Pa,

wtrH

ro cooK THE pEARs FtRsr IN A CARAMEL syRup BEFORE BAKING THEM WITH A BUTTERY CARAMEL SAUCE AND LIGHT.
pEARS.

pRerrn

10Jirm pears

e.g. Packhams

HoMEMADE Pupr PLsrny.

Cuoose A

FrRM FRUrr

rHAT HoLDS rrs

sHApE

3259/1102/'l% 50g/2oz/'y'

cups cdster sugdr

wELL, sucH ns Pncrunvs.

stick unsalted butter, dircd

I 2

Have ready the homemade Pu{f Pastry and set aside. Peel, quarter and

core the pears, then cover and set aside. Put three-quarters of the sugar into a deep saucepan with about 4 table-

spoons of water. Heat very slow1y, stirring occasionally,

until the sugar

starts

to dissolve.'With

pot of water and

a brush, wash down any sugar crystals

that cling to the side of the pan; this

will

give you a clearer caramel.

\iVhen every grain ofsugar has dissolved, stop stirring, raise the heat and

boil the sugar until it is a rich, dark caramel. Imnediately add the pear
quarters, standing well back as the cararnel

will

spit.

Stir the pears well to coat then'r. Cover with

lid, and adjust the heat to

are

maintain a simmer for about 20 minutes, or until the pears

just softened

but retain their shape and terture; during this time turn the pears once or
twice. Renrove from the heat. Leave the pears to cool in the caramel syrup, then chill. Drain the pears and set aside. I)iscard the crramcl syrup.

Put the remaining sugar into

saucepan

with 2 tablespoons of water.

As soon as the

Dissolve the sugar and boil

it to caranrel

staie as before.

caramel starts to smoke, I,vhisk in the diced butter.When you irave a smooth
sauce,

pour it into a 21cn/9in flan tin or dish which has a fixed

base.

5 Roll out the pastry to a23cn/1.Oin

transfer

diarreter circle. Prick it well and

10 minutes. Preheat the oven

it to the refrigerator to rest for about

6.

to 200"C/400oF,/Gas Mark

Arrange the drained pears in the caramel sauce. Fit the pastry on top,

tucking the edges down well to hold the pears in place. Bake for 20-25 mrnutes or

until the pastry

is golden brown and crisp. Drain the excess jr-rices

off
at

once during baking, leaving enough juice to keep the pears moist.

8 Cool in
roo111

the tin for 10 minutes then invert onto a olate and serve

temperature.

,:: 'a:a- ,,:,:

;i'?

:,t

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,i,, li;f

::l ,::i-

"l

,it

.:::

DESSERTS

I5

Poached pears in spiced red wine

isco ENTERTAINING. Ar rHr AugeRctNe, wE AccoMpANy rHEM wtrH :!AL scoops oF My Rrce PuoorNc (nncr 165), Fnesn GrNce n ,:i-cREAM (ence | 72), t HtzzL-Nur TurLle (ence 152), n rnrcrlr or r.rspBERRy sAUcE AND BRANDY sNAp srRtps. Tge cuolcr oF pEAR ts
rf TToRTANT:

--rS DtsH ts oBltctNGLy ADApTABLE. Senveo oN THETR owN, poAcHED ,!IRS MAKE A SIMPLE, LIGHT AND REFRESHING DESSERT IDEAL FOR AL

INGREDIENTS (for 5)

frm pears, ideally Packhams 1 x 75cl bottle red wine 200m1/7fl oz/l( cup Stock Syrup
6

(page

23)

1 cinnamon stick

5 cardamom pods
7 star anise

Pncrunys ARE My FAVouRtrE As rHEy HoLD

THETR sHApE

Ai.L,

BUT IF THEY ARE UNOBTAINABLE ANOTHER VARIETY OF SQUAT.SHAPED

riARwrLL Do,AS LoNGAS

tr ls FtRM *ALMosr snRo.You

NEEDTo srART
BE

--

s REctpE ABour

rwo

DAys tN ADVANcE.Tge

ourrueo LteuoR cAN

.:.U5ED ANOTHER TIME.

Peel the pears thinly, leaving the stalks intact. For a decorative effect,

r-ir-c some of the skin around the stalk end and, using a small, sharp knife,

-: rhe skin into jagged points. Core the

" ':rrall, sharp knife.

pears neatly from the base, using

Place the pears

in a large bowl and pour over the wine. Cover, transfer

:he refrigerator and leave the pears to macerate for about one day, turn,-o'occasionally; this helps them develop a good rich colour.

Have ready the Stock Syrup. Drain the wine

into a saucepan

large

:::.rugh to hold the pears upright. Add the Stock Syrup and spices, and

::rng to the boil. Remove from the heat and add the pears.

I
'^:

Cover with a cartouche

a disc of greaseproof paper cut

to fit exactly

.':.:.le the saucepan. Press

it down on top of the pears to hold thern under

liquor.

I ':.

Adjust the heat to maintain the barest simmer and poach the pears gencan

-,. tor 20-30 minutes or until a skewer or knife-tip

pears. Remove the pan

just be pushed into

from the heat and leave the pears to cool rn

spices and serve.

'::r liquid. Cover and chill for one day. Drain, remove the

oo

a-.ri4 I:q-:J:-9* ;
;. 7 ,;9.

*:,.i ,; 'l

: i

52 DESSERTS

Hazelnut tuiles
We sEnve rHEsE FLAT As A BASE roR Poncueo PrnRs tN Sptcro Rro WrNr (rnce l5l), ro AccoMPANY DAINTY scooPs oF lcE-cREAM' oR
LIGHTLY CURLED AS PETITS FOURS.

INGREDIENTS (for about 24)

4
egg whites caster sugar

50g/2oz/% cup
2 59

oz /

tablespoons cups

plain Jlour

I Lightly whisk the egg whites to

ingredients. Chill for about 2 hours.

a froth then beat

in the remaining

250g/8oz/3

ground hazelnuts

3 scant tablespoons hazelnut oil

Preheat the oven to 180"C/350"F/Gas Mark 4. Line a baking sheet with

sma1l teaspoonfuls

non-stick baking parchment and spread

over

of the mixture

SHAPING TUILES
FoR pERFEcr RoUND
RoUND TEMpLATES
TUrLEs, SpREAD THE tvltxruRE

it, allowing room for some expansion and using a palette knife to

tNr:
:

scrape the tops level. For the neatest shape use a homemade template (right).

ABour 7.5cm/3tN otnMETER.Ttesi

OF

Bake in batches of 4-6 until light golden brown, about 7 minutes. Scoop
as

EASILY BE MADE AT HOME USING THE PLASTIC TOPS

:
,.

off with a palette knife onto a wire rack where the tuiles will crisp up on top to flatten them
as theY

cREAM coNTAlNrns.
LID, THEN DRAW

Cur

oFF THE RAISED EDGES oF

HOLES AS

-*:

they cool. For an extra flat surface to the tuiles, lay a second baking tray
cool.

AND CUT OUT AS MANY

coMFoRTABLy. Spneno

n LtrrLE MtxruRE tNTo

TO

EAcH

*:

For curved tuiles, curl them over a rolling pin while still hot. Store in

THEN

USE

PALETTE KNIFE

LEVEL OFF THE TOP.

LIF- :

an airtieht container.

THE TEMPLATE.

Coconut tuiles
Woruornrul wlrH NEwLY PtcKED RASPBERRIES AND
Fness GrrucrR lce-cRenv (ence 172).
HoMEMADE

INGREDIENTS (for about 24)

759/2%oz/% cup
7

desiccated coconut

59/2%oz /% cup icing sugar

I 2 3

Preheat the oven

Pass

to 180"C,/350"F/Gas Mark

4.

259/ 1oz/2 tablespoons plain Jlour

the desiccated coconut through a food processor until it is fine but

egg whites
.

not reduced to a powder. Add the icing sugar and flour and process for a few more seconds until
a smooth, slightly runny paste.

50g/2oz/% stick unsalted butter, melted and

well blended, then add the egg whites and melted butter and process again

until you have

Line

baking sheet with non-stick baking parchment and spread small

teaspoonfuis of the mixture over it, allorving room for some expansion, using a palette knife to scrape the tops level. For the neatest shape use
homemade template (above right).
a

Bake as for Hazelnut Tuiles (above) and store in an airtight container.

DESSERTS I53

Mousse of blood-oranges
*-rEN
BLooD-oRANGES ARE tN SEAsoN,AND THEIR FULL-FLAVoURED JUtcE

INGREDIENTS (for 8-10)

500m1/18J1

IVAILABLE,YOU HAVE THE CHANCE TO MAKE THIS REFRESHING, FEATHER-

oz/2

cups

Jresh orange juice and

-'{T, Mousse.
F.-C

Our oF sEAsoN,
AND

usE THE FRESHLy seuEEZED JUtcE oF

RESTAURANT,

500m1/18fl oz/2
1 lilre/1% pinx/4%
%

cups

fresh blood-orange juice fresh orange juice

(page 24)

:-{ER TypEs oF oRANGES. lru rge

PYRAMID SHAPES

wE MoULD THE

MoussEs
cups

SERVE THEM

W|TH WAFER-THtN TRTANGLES OF

}.1K

CHOCOLATE, BUT YOU CAN SET THE MOUSSES SIMPLY IN RAMEKINS.

PASSTON FRUTT SAUCE.

x quantity Italian Meringue

leaues

!,irvE wttH A LIGHT-TEXTURED ORANGE AND

gelatine or 7 sachet gelatine crystals

325m1/11J\ oz/1% cup double cream

First make the mousse: boil the

'r rlain fresh orange .!- oz/2 cups. Set aside.

l7itre/I% pints/4% cups of mixed juice until it has reduced by half to about 500m1/

a little sunflower oil, to grease

FORTHE SAUCE:
500m1/18J1

I \leanwhile, make the Italian Meringue. t lf using leaf gelatine, soak the leaves in a bowl of iced

oz/2

cups

fresh orange juice

warer until .,rened, then remove and gently squeeze out the excess water.

6 passion frwits

2-3

tablespoons Stock Syrup (page

caster sugar

2j)

or

I l)ivide the quantity of reduced juice in half. Bring one halfjust to boil:i point then add the soaked gelatine and stir briskly until dissolved. If
r::'rg gelatine crystals, sprinkle these into the just boiled juice, whisking ::::rl dissolved. Stir in the remaining juice and strain through a fine sieve. t \\'hisk the juice very gradually into the Italian Meringue, then set aside to

1-2 tablespoons

1 teaspoon cornflour

:.il to blood temperature. Meanwhile whip the cream until it holds in soft r:lis.When the orange mousse mixture has cooled, gently fold in the cream.

I
:

To accelerate the setting of the mousse, place the bowl in a larger bowl

i :;ed

wate r,

stirring occasionally until the mixture is on the point of set-

:---q.

Meanwhile, lightly grease 8-10 ramekin moulds.

Spoon the mixture into the ramekins, tapping the bases gently to ensure

':--re are no air pockets. Chil1 for about 2 hours untii firm.

I While the mousses are setting, make the sauce: boil the 500m1,/18fl oz,z i .ups orange juice until it has reduced by half. Cut the passion fruits rn ::ii and, with a small, sharp teaspoon, scoop their pulp and seeds into the
'::;e. Boil again for one minute. Add the Stock Syrup or sugar, tasting for
-ieetness and adding more

if

necessary.Whisk

in the cornflour and cook

fine sieve. Cover with chng

':c

sauce

until it

has a coating consistency.

I Remove from the heat and strain lnr to prevent a skin from forming
".cr the sauce.

through

and leave until cold.To serve, dip the

"rnrekins briefly into boiling water, demould onto dessert plates and spoon

I54 DESSERTS

Glazed summer fruits with sauce sabayon

THrs oessrRr
SAUCES: BRTNGS

ToGETHER, rN oNE MEMoRABLE DrsH,

Two

cLASSrc

INGREDIENTS (for 6)
about 700g/ 1lb 9oz selection Jresh berry Jruit:..
e.g. strawberries, raspberries, blueberries, blatl:-

FRESH COULIS FRAMBOISE

WHICH CAN BE MADE WITH SLIGHTLY

ge

ovERRrpE

soFT FRUrr

AND A cunmpncNr sABAyoN. Rrpe suMMe n

nny

FRUlrs ARE DRESSED LIcHTLY lN DRtzzLED

RED coATtNG oF THE

coults,

THEN

berri

es, c h e rri es, ray berri es

wrrH THE

GOLDEN sABAyoN. FoR

nru

ELEGANTLY srMpLE

DESSERT LEAVE

IT AT THAT, BUT FOR

MORE SOPHISTICATED PRESENTA-

FORTHE COULIS FRAMBOISE:

500g/1lb 2oz;fresh
(thawed if Jrozen)
or

TloN'
|

ARRANGE THE couLls-coATED FRUlrs

AND sABAyoN ARouND

WITU TUIITS (RRCr

frozen

raspberries

SCOOPS

OF

SORBET,

WHICH MIGHT EVEN BE

BAsKErs.

SERVED

52) on tN BRANDy sNAp

100-1259/3%-4 oz/%-% cup juice of % lemon

caster sugar

I Pick

over the fresh berry fruits, hulling or stoning where

necessary.

Ideally, the strawberries should be small; large ones must be at least halved.

FORTHE SAUCE SABAYON:

3
egg yolks
5 0g /

2 To make the coulis framboise, pur6e the raspberries with the sugar to taste and the lemon juice, then rub through a sieve with a ladle to remove the pips. Set aside to chill, along with the berry selection,
until ready to
serve.
as

2oz

/% cup

caster sugar

100m1/3',1

Jl oz/%

cup Champagne, at rooill

temperature

3
set

Make the sauce sabayon when you are ready to serve

it

is best served

warm. Put the egg yolks, sugar and Champagne in a heatproof bowl and
over a saucepan of simmering water.'whisk with a hand-held elec* tric beater or with a sturdy balloon whisk until you have a pale, creamy mixture. The foam must be sufiiciently thickened so that

it

it won't

break

down on cooling: you should be able ro write a figure of eight with the foam when you lift the beaters. Remove and cool the foam until tepid. To serve, toss the prepared fruits gently in the coulis and spoon onto serving plates. Drizzle over the sabayon sauce. Ifyou intend serving scoops

of sorbet, then place these in rhe centre of each plate with the {iuits
arranged around them in a circle.

DESSERTS I55

Terrine of pi n k grapefru it, o range

and passion fru it
:"ENTS OF
GRAPEFRUIT

AND ORANGE ARE

LAYERED

AT RANDOM WITH

INGREDIENTS (for 8-10)

6

" '. ANA AND STRAWBERRY, THEN SET tN A PASS|ON FRUTT jELLy FOR . 'artztNG EyE-AppEAL. AN excrlle NT PALATE cLEANsER AND LtcHT To .- HIS TERRINE IS IDEAL FOR THOSE OCCASIONS WHEN A SPECIAL FRUIT

pink grapefruits
seedless oranges

8 large

6 passion Jruits

):RT IS IN ORDER. I'VC TOUNO THAT IT

IS VERY POPULAR

WITH CHI.-

200m1/7J1 oz/% cup Sntck Syrup (page 23)

ESPECIALLY lF SET lN iNDIVIDUAL DARIOLE IYOULDS, ':\, ' .] IT IS PARTICULARLY REFRESHING SERVED WITH SMALL SCOOPS OF :..- GREy Trn SoReer (elcr 173).We oFrEN sERVE tr wtrH A couLts
'ASSION FRUIT, FINELY DICED MANGO AND STRAWBERRY.

leaues

gelatine or ll sdchet gelatine crystals

2 large bananas
1

2 59 / 1o

z .fi'esh strawberries, hulled

..

'ing a small serrated knife, cut the tops and bottoms off the citrus :.. Cut away the remaining peel removing rvith it all the membrane.
-iurq each fruit in your hand, and working over a bowl, cut out each

of

..gnrents leaving the inner membranes behind. Discard any stray pips.

,'.rce the seplments on a clean tea towel to drain the juice and chil1 fbr

'lrs.Then place the segnents on

a fresh tea towel

to drain further

and

.rqain for another hour.This is necessary as the segments must be suf-

-:rtlv dry not to leak into the jelly while setting.

i \leanwhile,

make a passion fruit syrup: halve the passion frr-rits and

and juice

:tze their pulp

into

a sieve placed over a bowl. Rub the pulp

: .ceds through using

.

a wooden spool1. Discard the seeds and

mix the

: n ith the Stock Syrup. 4 ii r-rsing leaf gelatine, soak the leaves in

a bowl of iced water until

::,'ned, then remove and gently squeeze out the excess water.

5 i lcat half of the passion fruit syrup until it boils. Remove fi'om the ,r and stir in the soaked gelatine until dissolved. If usine gelatine
.t.ils, sprinkle directly
l

into the boiled syrup, whisking until

passion

dissolved.

::i in the remainder of the '.rrrrc through r sieve.

fruit

syrup, then strain the

I ine a 1 kg/2lb loaf tin with cling film, leaving an overhans of about

'-'rn/5in all round which can later be folded over the top. 7 \{ix the syrup with the citrus fruit sesments rhen spoon about : :' third into the base of the loaf tin. Peel the bananrs and lrrange one

: them, whole, iengthways down one side of rhe tin: pl.rcc helf oi
':.rri"berries down the other side.

tl're

I56 DESSERTS

Spoon over more segments and syrup. Arrange the second banana lengthways down the opposite side from the first one. Add rhe remainrrrg
strawberries, again on the opposite side. Finish by adding the remainrng

If you have any leftover syrup, carefully pour it rrr, tapping the whole tin gentiy and allowing the syrup to find its own level
within the tin.
Tng the sides of the overhanging cling film gently to straighten then fold it gently over on top. Place in the refrigerator to chil overnight or

segments and juice.

until firm.

l0 About 15 minutes before you are ready to unmourd the terri'e, transfer it to the freezer.Just before serving, unfold the cling film on top
then invert the terrine onto a serving platter or board. carefully remove

all of the cling film. cut into slices about 2cm//,in thick, ideally with an electric carving knife, although a large serrated knife will do. Lift each
slice onto a serving plate using a fish slice.

xk$r$rdwws

#$$#sstr #ss#

.g tr$*s& fftr#trtrStrssg.
F$d;f

s$$wps 3*$s.,'r

DESSERTS I59

Apricot and raspberrY souffl6s

--:RE rs No
:

MysrERy
EASY

ro

MAKTNG GRASP

PERFEcT

Hor

DEssERT

sourrlE.Tue

INGREDIENTS (makes 6 x 200m1/7fl oz or

l:lNlQUE lS

TO

AND, OBLIGINGLY,

lT

LENDS ITSELF TO

I x l50ml/%
%

pint souffl6s)
(page 22)

",,ANcE PREPARATION SO THAT THE SOUFFLE REQUIRES ONLY MINIMAL ,--:NTtoN AND A BRTEF BAKTNG JUST BEFoRE sERVING.A cnenr souFFLE,
-]UGH,
IS ONLY AS GOOD AS ITS BASE: AS LONG AS THIS IS FULL AND

FORTHE SOUFFLE BASE:

x quantity Crime Pdtissiire

uery

259/ 1oz/% stick softened butter

:/OURSOME,ALLTHAT IS REQUIRED IS FORTHE EGGWHITESTO LIFTTHE

50g/2oz 4

finely grated dark

caster sugar

chocolate

:.TURE tNTo rHE suBltME. Fon encu QUANTITY oF BASE MlxruRE' usE -IER THE APRICOT OR THE
RASPBERRY FRUIT PUREE.

egg whites

859/3oz/% cup

a tablespoon or two oJ icing sugar, to dust H:ive ready the Crdme PXtissidre and set aside.

t_oat the insides of the souffl6 dishes evenly with the butter. Sprinkle

FORAPRICOT SOUFFLE:
1

:1 the chocolate, turning the dishes and tapping out any excess. The .:ing helps the soufll6 to rise evenly so make sure there are no gaps'

x 4259/1102
oJ % lemon

can apricots

in naturaljuice

1259/4oz/% cup ready-to-cook dried apricots juice

ofyour choice. For the apricot soutA6: drain the juice from the can into a heaq/ pan' - :-i the dried apricots and just enough water to cover. Simmer until the
\1ake the fruit puree

1 tablespoon apricot brandy

::.ots
-

are tender and most of the

liquid

has reduced, about 15 minutes'

FOR RASPBERRY SOUFFLE:

500g/ 1lb 2oz fresh
thawed if frozen
or

,:rslbr

to a liquidizer or food

processor.

Add the lemon juice, apricot

frozen

raspberries,

.:rdv and the canned apricots. Blend to a smooth pur6e; set aside to cool'

For the raspberry souffl6: blend the fruits to a pur6e with the sugar
-:r boil down to reduce by half. Cool, then rub through a sieve with .:-. to remove the pips.
a

1259/1oz/% cup

caster suga(

4 Mix the pur6e of your choice with the Crdme 5

Preheat the oven

Pitissidre, blending

'roughly.The mixture can be set aside at this stage if preparing ahead'

to

190"C/375"F,/Gas Mark 5 and place the soufi16

the

.les on a baking sheet.Whisk the egg whites until they hold soft peaks'
:.rdually whisk

in the sugar. Beat half the meringue mixture into

a large metal spoon'

'.:ri pltissidre then fold in the remainder with

6
:

Spoon into the prepared dishes and scrape the tops 1evel
.r

with the back

knife. Set the ramekins on a baking sheet and bake for 10-12 minutes vou bring the

:.ril the soufTl6s have risen drarnatically and evenly.

Now, act fast! Have the icing sugar ready in a sieve and
'.rtfl6s

as

out of the oven, quickly dust the tops with sugar. Set each ramekin

:: a plate (use a fish slice for fast action serving) and sen-. instanth-'

I6O DESSERTS

Hot chocolate fondant

Arrr rrvpRrssrvE
FTNALE

To A

MEAL, THESE sMALL,

sourrtE-lrrE

FoNDANTS
FROZEN

INGREDIENTS (for l2)

1

CAN BE

ENJOYED HOT, FRESH FROM

THE OVEN. T*EY CAN BE

x quantity Italian Meringue

259/1oz/%

(page 24)

UNCOOKED, THEN BAKED FROM FROZEN, SO BATCH, EVEN rF you

IT

IS WORTH MAKING UP A

1509/5oz/1%

sticks softened unsalted butter y.: stick extrafor greasing

cocoa

cnN'r

EAT THEM ALL

AT oNE srrrNG. comroRrrNc

oN A coLD

wTNTER'S DAy,wE sERVE THEsE

wrrH A scoop

or

Grrucen tcr-

3509/12o2 dark chocolate at least 60%o

solids, broken in pieces

cRrnN (encr 172) cnnNrsnED wrrH CnNoreo oRnruce

pe er_

(elce lg7).

plus 50g/2oz extra,

I Make up the Italian Meringue and set aside. Ir will hold well. 2 Melt the 25g/roz/% stick of butter and use to brush the sides and bases
of 12 dariole moulds or ramekin dishes, then dust with the grated chocolate, turning the moulds and tipping out excess to ensure an even coatlng.
Set aside

;finely grated

10g/1% oz/% cup plainJlour

259/1oz/% 3

cup cocoa powder

co-ffee

teaspoons instant

granules

5 egg yolks

in the fridge to chill.

FORTHE HOT CHOCOLATE SAUCE:
150m1/% pint/% cup cold water

3 Place the pieces of chocolate in a heatproof bowl set over a pan of barely simmering water. Melt, stirring occasionalry, then remove and cool
ro room temperature.

1259/4oz/7

cup sugar
cocoa

4 sift

together the flour, cocoa powder and cofTee. prace the yolks and 1509/5oz/7% sticks softened butter in a mixing bowl and whisk toqether

40g/1% oz/% cup

powder

j00nl/% pint/

1% cups double cream

until emulsified, about 2-3 minutes.

5 whisk the flour

mixrure inro the yolks and butter, foltowed by the

melted chocolate and, finally, fold in the Italian Meringue. Spoon or plpe the mixture into the prepared moulds or ramekins, tapping the moulds gently to ensure there are no air gaps, then level the tops with the back of a knife. If not immediateiy required, they can be placed in the freezer. oth-

in cling film until ready to bake. sauce, which can be prepared an hour or so before serving, put the water, sugar and cocoa powder into a saucepan and heat gently, stirring all the time, until the sugar and cocoa have clissolved. Bring to the boil, still stirring, then add rhe cream.
er-wise wrap

6 For the hot chocolate

Return to the boil and simmer for 3-5 minutes, stirring frequently until the sauce coats the back of the spoon. Remove and cool slightly, then cover the top of the sauce loosely with cling film to prevent a ski' formi.g. 8 when you are ready to eat the fondants, preheat the oven to L90"c/
375"F/Gas Mark 5. Remove any cring firm, prace as many moulds or ramekins as required on a baking sheet and bake for 15 minutes, or, if they
have been frozen, for about 20 minutes, until risen and

firm on top.

Demould onto dessert

plates. pour the warm sauce over rhe too and

serve immediately.

DESSERTS

63

Chocolate tart
5r-rr.,r,

olRr

AND DElrctous

A THtN, cRtsp pAsrRy cASE coNTRAsrs

INGREDIENTS (for 8-10)

%

IIBLIMELY WITH A VELVETY GANACHE OF BITTER CHOCOLATE THAT IS LIGHTLY 3AKED

x quantity Rich

Sweet

Pa*ry

(page 26)

AND sET To A Glossy FrNrsH. Some unvr sArD THrs ts rHE BEsr
TRTANGLES.

1 egg yolk beaten with a little water, to glaze 1009/1102 dark chocolate, ideally 50%o
solids,
cocoa

:HocoLATE rnnr even! lr vou wlsu. DEcoRATE wtrH cHocoLATE

Jinely chopped

I Have ready the Rich Sweet Pastry and the Candied Orange Pee1. 2 On a lightly floured board, ro11 out the pastry dough so that it is large
:rrough to 1ine, with some overhang, a21crn/9in flan tin with a removable :rse. Do not trim too exactly at this stage, allowing the edges to overhang
.-rghdy. Press the pastry well into the sides and make sure there are no tears.

150m1/%

pint/%

cup milk

250m1/9Jl oz/1 cup double cream

eggs, beaten

TO SERVE:
1

irghdy prick the

base. Reserve any

leftover pastry for patching.

x quantity Candied

Orange Peel (page 187)

3 I

Cover with foil, weigh down the base with baking beans and chi1l in the
4.

whipped cream
rcxng sugar cocoa powder

:'ririgerator for 20 minutes. Preheat the oven to 180"C/350"F,/Gas Mark

Place the

flan
is

case on a baking sheet and bake for about 10 minutes or

'rntil the pastry

just set. Remove the foii and baking beans. using a sharp

inife, trim the

edges neatly. Patch any tears

with leftover

pastry. The aim is

:o have an unbroken top edge so the fi1ling remains

1eve1.

Return the flan

case

to the oven for 5 minutes or until it just begins to

.'olour; remove and brush rvith a glaze of egg yolk beaten in a little water. Lower the oven to 130"C/250"F,/Gas Mark % andbake the case for 3 mrnutes to seal the glaze. Remove and set aside.

Meanwhile, place the chopped chocolate in a bow1. Bring the milk and

;ream just to the boil

in

a saucepan, then pour onto the chocolate, whisk-

rng until the chocolate has melted and the ingredients have amalgamated.

7 8

Put the beaten eggs in another bowl and pour in the chocolate mixture,

*-hisking well. Strain through a fine sieve to ensure the mixture is smooth. Return the flan
case

to the baking sheet and place on the oven shelf which

case,

rou have lifted out slightb. Pour the chocolate nrixture into the
rnixture as high up the sides
as

taking the

you dare. It should be almost flush with the top.

Carefully reposition the shelf and bake the tart for about 25 minutes or until

the fi1ling has started to set. Tr:rn off the oven, leaving the tart inside for a fur-

ther 30 minutes, then remove and set aside to cool compietely.

Candied Orange Peei dusted with icing sugar and cocoa powder.

'When

cool,

push up the base to remove from the tin. Garnish with whipped cream and

i:$s w #w $# sx

I64 DESSERTS

Frtll

rave au cnocolat
Tue ulrtvnrE cHocoLATE
A vANtLLA tcE-cREAM,

To SERVE wtrH RASpBERRTES oR wtrH gorH. oR wtrH lN rHe AueERctNE, wE sERVE THts
MoussE

INGREDIENTS (for 8-10)

FOR THE

WHITE CHOCOLATE BASE:

pieces

MOUSSE OF DARK CHOCOLATE

ON A CRISP BASE OF WHITE CHOCOLATE IN

859/3oz white chocolate, broken into

sMALL TNDTvTDUAL MouLDs. Ar Hove you MAy FtND tr EASTER To MAKE oNE LARGE MoussE. ANoruen oploN wouLD BE To sKIp rHE BAsE AND JUST

tablespoons double cream

1 teaspoon liquid glucose

spooN THE MoussE oNLy rNTo

TNGREDIENTS tMpoRTED

ELEGANT

wtNE

GLASSES.

HLvr

3 Pompadour ice-cream;fan
cornflakes, crushed into

wa;fers

or 859/302, .;

ADAPTED THE BASE FOR DOMESTIC COOKS SINCE IN THE RESTAURANT WE

fne

crwmbs

usE spEctAL

rRom FRRNcE:
pRALTNE

cRUsHED wAFERS

A GooD, srRoNG cHocoLATE FLAVoUR, cHoosE cHocoLATE wrrH neour 60% cocoA solrDs.Tns oesseRr cAN BE MADE AND FRozEN AHEAD.

KNowN ns Pnrrrerre Ftut-:.r-rtNt AND A

pnsrE. FoR

FORTHE DARK CHOCOLATE MOUSSE:

300g/10o2 dark chocolate, broken in 4 egq yolks 1259/4oz/% cup
caster suga{ pieces

For the base, melt thc whitc chocolate with the cream, in a bowl

set

90ml/3Jl oz/',4 cup cold water

300m1/% pint/1% cups double cream
100m1/3'/.J1

over a pan of gently sirnmering wrter. stirring occasionally until smooth. Remove the bowl and set aside.-When cool,beat in the liquid glucose.

oz/%

cwp

milk

Stir the crushed fan r,vafers or cornflakes into the chocolate. Place the

otrtside ring of a 21,cn/9in cake tin, without the base, onto a flat serving

TO SERVE:
fresh raspberries uanilla ice-cream

plate and press the mixture into

it with the back of

a spoon.

It should

be

nice and even.Transfer to the refrigerator.

For the mousse, rnelt the dark chocoiate in a bowl set over a pan of

gently simmering water, stirring occasionally. Take care not to let

it

over-

heat or

it will

'seize' and become difficult

to stir to a snlooth it

cream.

Remove the bowl from the pan and cool to roonl temperature.

Put the egg yolks, sugar and water into a larger bowl. Set
a

over a pan

of sirnmering w;rter. lJsing

a figure

balloon whisk or a hand-held electric beater,

whisk until you have a thick, pale gold foam.You should be able to draw

of eight with the trail of foam r,vhen it is the right

the chocolate rnixture is cool, rvhip the cream and

consistency.

Fold in the melted chocolate with a nretal spoon then chill in the refrigerator.

5 When

niik togeth-

er in another bowl until soft peaks form. Fold half of this crearn mixture

into the chocolate mixture and, once it is incorporated, fold in the remainder. This two-stage process will ensure a nice light texture. Spoon
the mousse mixture onto the crushed wafer base in the cake tin, spreading evenly to ensure a level surface. Return to the refrigerator to
set.

'When

the mousse is firm, run the tip of a knife around the ring and

lift

it

away. Slide a palette

knife under the

base

of the flan to loosen it, but

keep

it on the same plate. Serve with

raspberries and vanilla ice-cream.

DESSERTS

65

My rice pudding
A well-r-oveD FAVouRrrE To wHtcH I noo n sopHtslcATED ToucH oF
cnEvE nNclRrse.

INGREDIENTS (for 8-10)

500m1/18J1 500m1/18J1

Tur

cREAMy, MoussE-LtKE TEXTURE oF THts RtcE puDDESSERT,

oz/2 oz/2

cups milk cups double cream

DING MEANS IT HAS GREAT APPEAL AS A COLD

AND IT CAN

BE

I'OULDED INTO LITTLE OVALS AND SERVED AS AN ACCOMPANIMENT TO

1 uanilla pod

FRUrr sucH

ns PoncuEo Pmns rN

Sprceo Reo WrNe

pREsENTED

(encr l5l).

180g/5oz/1 cup round-grain pudding

12 egg yolks

rice

Howeven,

rr

rs EeuALLy AccEpTABLE wHEN

As A DESSERT tN

ITS OWN RIGHT, SERVED IN SMALL CUSTARD CUPS OR ELEGANT STEMMED

GLASSES

180g/6oz/% cup

caster sugar

AND, PERHAPS, TRICKLED WITH

sERVED

PUREE

OF MANGO OR

PRUNES.

Gooo,Too,

Hor

AS A

TRADIIoNAL RtcE puDDtNG.

I In a large heavy-based
elong

saucepan,

bring the milk and cream to scalding

point. Meanwhile, split the vanilla pod, scrape out the seeds and add the."

with the pod itself, to the saucepan. 2 Stir in the rice and bring to the boil. Lower to a slow simmer and conrinue cooking, stirring occasionally, for 15-20 minutes, or until the rice rs
soft and the mixture reduced and thickened.

3 In

a large bowl beat the yolks with the sugar until the mixture

1s

pale and smooth.'When the rice mixture is ready, beat egg mixture.

it gradually into the

4 Return the mixture

to the pan and very gently reheat until it thickens

again, stirring occasionally. Cool, stirring once

or twice to stop a skrn

set.

tbrming, then chill over a bowl of iced water until

5 To serve as an accompaniment, shape into quenelles (page 173) using ) dessertspoons.Alternatively, press into small moulds using round cutters
piaced on dessert olates.

DESSERTS I67

Cassonades
iI
THE AueeRctNe,

wE

sERVE

ruEse CnssoNADEs, oR cusrARDS,

CUPS, ARRANGING

IN

INGREDIENTS (for 6)

VARIETY OF FLAVOURS

IN DAINTY CUSTARD

SELEC-

FORTHE BASIC CUSTARD:

500m1/18J1

- cN

oF THREE As AN INDtvtDUAL sERVtNG. Bur ruEv ARE EQUALLY GooD

oz/2

cups double cream

..R.vED srNGLy MADE tN

LARGER

cusrARD cup oR RAMEKIN. PopulnR

100m1/3'/zJl oz/% cup

UHTJull

cream milk

.-AVouRS tNCLUDE vANILLA, sARRTETTE (onreo

wto

ruvme) AND coFFEE

4 egg yolks 859/3oz/% mp

caster sugar

A HoMEMADE ESsENcE (aelow). Bur wnv, 'ou MAy AsK, Do wE usE UHT vrlr? Tsr eNswen ts tr HELPs ro
rHE
LATTER EMpLoyrNG :-ABILIZE THE CUSTARD MIXTURE DURING BAKING AND IT ALSO MEANS
--1AT WE CAN USE FEWER EGGS.

demerara sugar, Jor sprinkling

FOR TH E FLAVOUR VARIATIONS:

ua,rnilla pods,

split and

seeds scraped out

| l)ut the

milk and the flavouring of your choice into a large ..1cepan and bring it to scalding point. Preheat the oven to
cream,

259/1oz sdrriette sprigs (dried wild thyne)

of

:tt"C/225"F/

Gas Mark Low.

Meanwhile whisk the egg yolks in a large bowl. \Vhen the milk just

sprrgs

.fresh tn),mc

-rrrs to rise up the sides of the pan, pour

'::rr-rously,

it onto the yolks, whisking conl)'sgt+ort%

cup cofee beans plus 1 tablespoon

then whisk in the sugar untii dissolved.

3
:-i

Strain through a fine sieve, discard the flavourings, then pour into ramekin dishes which have been set out on a baking sheet. Bake for
-15

Homemade Cofee Essence (belout)

minutes until just set, then cool and chill until firm.

To serve, sprinkle with a light, even layer of demerara sugar and place

.'rrler a very hot. preheated grill to glaze; or, if you have one, use a hand-

::ld flame torch to caramelize the

susar.

Cool and serve.

Homemade coffee essence

I In a heavy-based saucepan, moisten the caster sugar with a small drop i liquid glucose and the rvater. Dissolve slowly, over a low to medium
r.at, stirring occasionally, brushing the pan sides down with water if crys- !1\ l- .l^-l )t4rr

INGREDIENTS (makes about 350m1/

l2flozllZcups)
300g/1002/1% cups
drop o;f liquid
glucose caster sugar

'When

every grain has dissolved, stop stirring, raise the heat and boil the

about 1 tablespoons cold water

.,.'rup steadily until it just begins to caramelize. Remove from the heat and

100g/3%oz/2 cults instant

co;ffee

granules

-.rrefully mix in the instant coffee granules.

Cool. then borrle and ure

as requtrcd.

[-

68 DESSERTS

crdme brol6e with roasted rhubarb

Hsne, nHuenRB AND cusrARD rs crvEN A sopHrsrrcATeo
enOLEe

tRrntve*t THr cusrARD rs MADE DTFFERENTLy FR.M REGULAR cusrARD: suGAR rs

SEEDS

INGREDIENTS (for 5)
2 5 0g /
1

9oz rhubat b, ledues

discarded

ADDED AFTER THE MILK HAS BEEN BEATEN ONTo THE YoLKs, REsULTING IN A

THICK MIXTURE THAT ALLOWS THE VANILLA

59/%oz / 1 tahlespoon unsdlted butter

TO BE HELD IN SUSPENSION.

Wr

7 dessertspoon cledr honey

sERvE THrs

wrrH

A TrNy

scoop oF

RAspBERRy soRBET AND

A MrNT spRrc.

uanilLa pods
cream

Peel away the stringy, coarse ribs of the rhubarb then cut the stalks first nto lcnt/ 1'%rn lengths, then into bltons. Heat the butter and honey in a rarge

I 2

35)ntl/12-fl oz/1% utps double

Have ready the Dried Strawberries

if

using, and theJus de Fraises.

125ntl

/|-fl oz/%

cup L:HT whole rnilk

egg yolks

frying pan until bubbling, then add the rhubarb in a single layer and gently for about 5 minures, turning carefulry, until softened but Drain in a sieve then spread out on a crean tea towel to absorb molsture' change the towei twice more. It is important
rhubarb thoroughly so that

759/2%oz/% cup cdster sugdr

,roast,

still whore.
excess

TO SERVE:
Dried Strawberries (page 187) (optionat)
Jus de Fraises (page 22)
demerara sugar, Jor sprinkling

to drain

trre

it

doesn,t rise during baking.

Meanwhile, line the base of six ramekin disrres with discs of greaseproof paper.whe'r the rhubarb is quite dry, clivide between the dishes, spreading the pieces neatlv over the bases.Arrange the ramekins on a baking sheet. 5 Slit the vanilla pods, scrape out the seeds and mix with the crear.n. put the
cream,

rnilk and empuy pods into

a large

a large saucepan and a

6 7

bring slowly to the boil. whisk until srnooth and

Meanwhile, in

bowi, beat the yorks with

to 120"C/225"F,/Gas Mark Low. When the cream mixture starts to boil and rise, pour it, in stages, onto the yolks, whisking continuousry. Stir in the caster sugar until it has arl
dis-

a paler shade

of yellow. Preheat the oven

solved Strain through a fine sieve into a jug arrd discard the pods. 8 Pour a little of the custard over the rhubarb in the ramekins'anilla
and transrbr
has set enough to hold the rhubarb in piace. Pour in the renraining custard and cook for a further 4560 minures or until lightly set. The cusrard is ready whe n, if tippecl,

to the oven for 20 rlinutes or until the mixtr-rre

away siowly

9 l0

it comes frorr rhe sides of the mourd and is srightly wobbry in the centrc, cool, then chill until quite firm.To unmould, run a table k'ife round

a prate. Remove the paper discs. Sprinkle the custards with demerara sugar, then caramerize, either with a hand-he1d blowtorch, or by placing under a hot grill. Tuck the Dried Strar,v-

the edge of each ramekin and invert onto

berries just beneath the top of each brrl6e and spoon round the |us t1e Fraises.

,"""f

ii:

:l::

,,:i:ril

t.i

rir'.1'l

lt tif

"' ,i ,, tl.
tlr.,..

i,

i-.-

lt,t ,r

,l;

For me, there

is little to match the satisfaction of making lcomemade ice-creams'what

yne can create, reflecting 6n origptarticularly appeals is the sheer uariety of ;flauours

ittality and subtlety that

becomes

truly unique' There is a good practical

redson) too,for making ice-cream at home

- it is uery simple and inuariably popwlar!

to accompany
mdny

At
o-f

the Aubergine, we use ice-creams and sorbets

our

desserts, spooning the

teaspoons,

frozen mixtures into qwenelle shapes using or seruing as mowlds. But they (lre also impressiue enough to stand

stored ready for ,tlone: a selection of, sa!, three or four can be made ahead and sp,ntdneous seruing. If frozen ahead

in this

way, the ices

will require a resting

soften their texture

period

of around 10
for

minutes

at room temperature to

sufficiently

scooping and seruing'

mixtures: Ice-crearns and sorbets consist of flauowrings added to the basic

for ice-creams, and syrwps for sorbets' Intense cold can by preparing mixtures that dre _flauours and this must be compensated for
Crinte Anglaise
mask

tuell sweetened and well flauoured

'

I72 ICE.CREAMS AND SORBETS

Crdme anglaise
My tce-cRcRMs
ARE MADE By ADDTNG FLAVoURtNGs

ro A RlcH

BASE oF

INGREDIENTS (for 5 generous servings or

CnEyE ANcr-Lrse.TuE FLAVoURtNGS ARE ADDED EITHER AT THE BEGtNNtNG

8-l0 smaller ones)

500m1 /
1 8_11

OF MAKING THE CUSTARD, FOR EXAMPLE WITH VANILLA, CINNAMON

ctNGER tcE-cREAMS, oR AT THE END As

OR

oz

/2 ups milk

wtrH

pRUNE

nNo AnmLctrtAc IcE-

500rnl/18J1 oz/2 cups double crearn

cREAt4. lce-cnenNs ARE BEsr cHURNED DURTNG FREEZTNG tN ELEcrRlc MACHINES WHICH BREAK DOWN ICE CRYSTALS EFFORTLESSLY INTO A

12

egg yolks

180g/6oz/l

cup caster sugar

stLKy TEXTURT. lN

lur

ABSENcE oF AN ELEcrRtc tcE-cREAM MAKER,

MOST MIXTURES MUST BE BEATEN BY HAND WITH

STRONG BALLOON

FLAVOURVARIATIONS:
Enough.for one quantity of Crime Anglaise:

WHISK THREE OR FOUR TIMES DURING FREEZING TO BREAK UP THE ICE

CRYSTALS

AND LOOSEN THE TEXTURE ALTHOUGH THE

AS MACHINE-CHURNED ICES.

RESULT

WILL NOT

BE AS SMOOTH

Vanifla lce-cream:
pods too.

scrdpe the seeds _from

sy

pods into the milk and crenm, and ddd the cnty'

I In a large heavy-based

saucepan, heat the milk, cream and any flavour-

ing. stirring occasionally. until the mirturc corncs jrrsr up to the boil.
Remove fronr the heat and allow the flavourings to infuse for 10 minutes.

Cinnamon lce-cream: ddd 1 stick oJ cinnani.

and 2% leuel teaspoons ground cinn.amon to tl're rtti and cream.
.

Meanwhile, set a large niixing bowl on a damp cloth

- to steady the
pale

bowl

and whisk together the yolks and sugar

until the mixture turns

golden and you can drarv a figr,rre of eight across the surface.

Return the flavoured milk and creanl to the heat and bring back to the

Fresh Ginger lce-cream: add 50g/2%oz pttl.

boil.'When the mixture begins to creep up the sides of the pan,imrnediately remove from the heat and pour half of

it into the yolks

":rOr:^*rO

-fr,esh

root ginger into the milk

,ti

and sugar,

whisking well.'When the mixture is well blended, reheat the remaining

creamy

milk and rvhisk this in too until

lve1l blended.

Prune and Armagnac lce-cream: pit

and

Jin,.
ltot'

Pour the custard mixture back into the pan and, on the lor,vest possible

chop 150g/5oz pltunp French prunes. Maceratt

heat, stir for approximately 2 n-rinutes using a wooden spoo11,

until

the

tablespoons oJ Arrnagnac -for

at

l.east

mixture coats the back of the spoon and has a consistency similar to that

or ouern.ight. Make the ice-cream up to the churut'

of double cream.Your finger should be able to draw a line through the

mixture on the back of the spoon that will make
a

stage and when about three-quarters oJ the through thurning (the end qf step

rt.: t,

definite parting. Do not

sugar

7), stir in

allow the custard to boil or it will curdle. If you have a

fruit and liqueur.

thermometer, you can check this by aiming for a reading of 82"C,/175"F.

Strain the mixture into another bowl through a fine sieve, discarding

any flavourings, and cool down as quickly as possible by standing in a larg-

er bowl of iced water. Stir occasionally to prevenr a skin forming. Cool then chill L1ntil readv to freeze.

ICE-CREAMS AND SORBETS I73

CHURNING AND FREEZING:

SHAPING QUENELLES
maker fol1ow the manufacturer's instrucTo
SERVE

6 If you are using an ice-cream

THE rcE-cREAM As eUENELLES, scooP THE

:rons to churn the CrdmeAnglaise.

If you don't have

a machine,beat the

SLIGHTLY SOFTENED ICE.CREAM

AND

SHAPE BETWEEN

mixture by hand using a balloon whisk or a strong fork. Pour the chilled
nrixture into a shallow container and set in the coldest part ofthe fteezer,

2 rrnspooNs, IHEN pLAcE oN A

FREEzERTo
PLATES

TRAY.

Retunx

to tue
oN

nnv.TuevnReIHEN

READY FoR PLACING

or switch on the fast-freeze switch, depending on your type of freezer.

WHEN YOU ARE ABOUT TO SERVE.

As ice crystals begin to form around the edges, remove the container
a strong

irom the freezer and use

crvstals
process

balloon whisk or a large fork to beat the

into the rest of the mixture. Return to the freezer. Repeat this about 3-4 times. The ice-cream will gradually become stifTer, yet

rofter in texture. 8 'When the ice.cream is of a firm dropping consistency, cover and leave

it is required. If you have made the ice-cream ahead of rime and it is very firm, allow it to soften for about 10 minutes at room
rn the freezer until temDerature.

So

rbets
SIMPLE: sUGAR

THe enstc METHoD FoR soRBETs ts

JUrcE THEN BOILED GENTLY, CHILLED

ls DlssoLVED INwATER oR

AND CHURNED. PARADOXICALLY, ACID' lN

THE FORM OF LEMON OR LIME JUICE, HELPS INTENSIFY THE SWEETNESS.

Earl Grey tea sorbet

I
In
a large, hearry-based saucepan,

INGREDIENTS (for 6 generous servings

bring the water and sugar slowly to the

or 8-10 smaller ones)

900m1/1% pints/4 cups cold water

boil, stirring gently with a wooden spoon, until the sugar has completely
dissoived. Raise the heat and iet the syrup

boil rapidly for 5 minutes.

250g/9oz/1%
juice oJ 1 lime

cups caster sugdr

Remove from the heat, add the Earl Grey tea bags and leave them to

6 Eail Grey teabags

infuse for 10 rninutes.Add the lime and lemon iuices then strain the liq-

uid into

jug. Cool and chill.

machine to a soft ice texture and either serve

juice o;f 7 lemon

3 Churn in an ice-cream

straight away or transfer to a freezer container and store in the freezer for

up to two weeks. Allow to soften slightly at room temperature before serving or shape into quenelles (above).

I74 IC]E_CIIEAMS ANl) SORBETS

Blood-orange sorbet
I
hr
a laree,

heavv-based sallcepan, bring the rvater and sugar slowly to the

INGREDIENTS

(for l0 generous servings

ruater

boil.:rirring gcrrtlr with a riooden spoon. until the sugrr har cornplctcly
dissolved. Raise the heat and let the syrup boil rapidlv for 5 nrinures.

or l5 smaller
10014/ 14oz /

ones)

500m1/18fl oz/2 cups rcld 2 cups caste t

2 Rerlove from the heat,

Cool and chill.

add the orange and lemon juices, then strain. machine to a soft ice texture and either serve

sLtgdl

900m1/ 1% pints / 4 cttps .frash blood-orange

juitt

3 Churn in an ice-cream

juice oJ 7 lemon

straight away or transfer to a freezer colttainer and store in the freezer lbr

up to two rveeks. Allou' to soften slightly at roorn ternperature before serving or shape into quenelles (page 173).

Pineapple sorbet
I 2
Peel, core and chop the pineapple

into small chunks.

INGREDIENTS (for 5 generous servings

Lr

a large,

heavy-based saucepan, bring the rvater and sr-rgar slor,vly to the

or 8-10 smaller ones)

1 ripe medium pineapple 600m1/1 pint/2% cups cold watet

boil. stirring gentlr- rvith a r,vooden spoon, until the sugar has completely
dissolved. Raise the heat and let the syrup boil r;pidlv for 5 rninures.

3 Stir in the 4
Chr-rrn

prneapple arrd poach

until soft, about 10

nrinutes.

250g/9oz/1%

cups cdster sugdr

Cool slightl1', then pur6e and strain. Cool conrpletelv and chill.

in an ice-cream machine to a soft ice terture and either

r,veeks.

serve

straight a\vav or transfer to a lreezer container and store in the freezer for Llp

to two

serving or shape

Allotv to soften sliehtly at room teruperature before into quenelles (page 173).

Bitter chocolate sorbet

Tlts u,rrs cHocoLATE
tcE-cREAM tNTo

A NEw

DtMENStoN

DARK AND

INGREDIENTS (for 6 generous servings o.

8-

DELICIOUS WITHOUT BEING RICH

AND CREAMY.ALTUOUCI-I

SIMPLE

TO MAKE,

l0 smaller ones)

THIS ICE CAN ONLY BE MADE USING AN ELECTRIC ICE-CREAM MAKER WITH
ITS OWN BUILT.IN FREEZER UNIT.

250nil/9J1 oz/1 cup ntilk 250n1/9J1 oz/ 1 atp cold water

1509/5oz/% tup

cdster sugar
li

Put the milk. rvater, sugar and glucose on to the hear, srirring until dis-

5 0g /

2oz

tablespoons

quid

glucose cocoa

solved, then bring to the boil.

2009/7oz dark chocolate, at least 50,%

broken into pieces

,;

2 Remove from the heat and add the chocolate, srirring r-rntil smooth. 3 lleturn to the heat, bring back to the boil, then strain through a fine
sieve and leave

to cool ur-rtil rvarm and still runny.

a

Pour into an electric ice-creat'u machine and churn until smooth and

soft fiozen texture. Cover and store until required.This can be shaped into quenelles for serving (page 173).

ICE_CI{EAMS AND SORtsETS I77

Parfaits
Yv
pnRrnrrs ARE

coMBrNATroN oF

A Mousse-rrre PAre R

BoMee,

yERtNGUE MtxruRE AND

A FLAVoURED wHtppED CREAM. Pnnrntrs Do Nor

\EED To BE cHURNED DURTNG FREEZtNG. Tgts ls BECAUSE THE HtGH

'ERCENTAGE

OF

I'4ERINGUE MEANS THAT

AIR HAS ALREADY

A

BEEN

NcoRpoRATED wHtcH MAKES THE TEXTURE styoorHER.Tlts Nnrcrs

:ASIER TO MOULD, EITHER

rHrr

lN INDIVIDUAL

RAMEKINS, OR lN

LOAF TIN WHEN

r cAN
cAN

BE SERVED

cur

tN st-tces.ArrrnnATrvEly,A FRozEN pARFAtr MIXTURE

BE SHApED

rNTo eUENELLEs usrNG

2 oessenrspooNs (pnce 173).

Banana parfait
lN THE
wAFERS

RESTAURANT

I srnvr rHrs wrrH

sERVED

cARAMEL

AND cocoA-BEAN

INGREDIENTS
1
%

AND sLrcES oF BANANA DtppED rN Hor cARAMEL. FoR n srmplen

x quantity
x quantity

(for l0-12 servings) PAte i Bombe (pdge 23)

French Meringue (page 24)

pRESENTATToN

rr woRKS wELL

wrru Brrrrn CHocolnrr Sonarr

GLAZED
nECrpe

(ence 174) xs Hpne, DRreo SrRnweenRres (ence 187),wrrr rHE

FRUTTS FROr-r

3 00ml

/% pint / 1',4 cups double cream

bananas, mashed to a thick purie

rse

GU,ZeO SUwVTR

FRUTTS

Wrrs SLUCr SnenyON

3 uery ripe

(nece 154) on wrrH slrcES oF rHE Tr,rrru

RIPE BANANAS FOR THE BEST FLAVOUR.

or

Penns (ence 148). Use ve nv

2
7

tablespoons

Crime de Banane or white rum

Chocolate Sorbet (pdge 171)

x quantity Bitter

fetu sprigs mint

Whisk together the Pite

Bombe and the French Meringue mixtures. amounts by volume.

as the

They should be in

ror-rgh1y equal

2 Lightly rvhip the cream to the same consistency 3

Fina11y,

Pite

Bombe

:rnd French Meringue mixture then rvhisk both nrixtures foqcther.

rvhisk

in the banana pur6e

and lirlucur. Pour

or pipe into

tin or a large freezer container. Freeze until firrn. 4 About J0 nrinutcs [cFor+ .eruirro tr rn\Gr rhe prrfuit fronr thc l-reezer
ranrekins, a long loaf
tn the refrioerrfor '"'__'_.-__-b.-_*'"_'

5 To unnrould the p.rrltair ju.t bclorc

minutes

rcrvirrq. rLrrr rlrc

tip ,rt'.r

krrilc

around the edge of the mor-rld to ioosen it.'Wrap the nror-rld for several

in

a towel wrutrg onf

in verl hof \\'.lter. thcn inr-elt the mould

onto a serving plate.

Serve each slice

with a scoop of Bittel Chocolatc Sorbct .rrcl ql'rrish

.-rith the rrinf

cnritrq

This is where we can show ofJ without ouert boasting. These swbtle towches, which show louing care) dre

all prepared ahead when we haue time, then stored

seconds

in

airtight tins ready in

for setting off owr chosen dish: whether Shredded with

Roasted Rhwbatb (Pogt

Dried Leeks to garnish Roasted Monkfish with Red Wine Sauce (Pogt 113) or
Strawberries

to

decorate Crime Br{tlie

168) or,

perhaps, A mousse or an ice-credm.

The techniqwe of drYing slices of fruit, -for

prouides great scype.

use

as a finishing touch,

do enjoy the process as the end results make stunning decota-

a great manY tions, adding a breathtaking finishing touch to simple desserts' There a{e mangoes and pineapples, but the fruits that yow cdn Ltse, including apples, strawberries' basic

principles are always the

same.

I80 FINISHING TOUCHES

Shredded leeks
ONe

or
LEEK

ouR LtcHT

GARNtsHES

wHtcH ts

EAsy

ro

MAKE

tN euANTtry AND

INGREDIENTS
1 large leek
uegetable oil, for

sroRE rN AN ATRTTcHT poLyrHENE coNTATNER. lrusrRucrrorus ARE GrvEN FoR oNE

(wutcn

MAKEsA

lor) survou

MAywtsHTo tNcREAsETHEAMouNT.

frying

I Tiim

the leek of roots and tops, then slit down to the centre without

cutting in half. Remove the inner section of the leek (use this in another
dish) leaving about 3-4 outer layers. the ieek layers inro 1,0cn/4in lengths and fold each section in rwo horizontally, i.e. the opposite way to its natural fold. Using a very sharp
cook's knife, shred finely. Repeat

2 cut

with the remainder of the

1eek.

Line a baking sheet with greaseproof paper and scatter the shreds roosely

over. Bake

in the oven

set at irs lowest heat, about 120"c /225"F/Gas

Low. If

it

is still too hot,prop the oven door ajar.

Mark cook for about 2 hours

or until the leek shreds feel dry and crisp, yet still retain a green colour.

4 To serve, deep fry in hor oil,

a few seconds

heated

to about 170"C/325"\ for just

to crisp and colour them even further. Drain and serve rn

delicate mounds as a sarnish.

Candied aubergine slices

THrsg Ltcurly
CARAMELTzED slrcEs ARE

DElrcrous

sERVED As

GARNTsH

INGREDIENTS (makes l6 slices)

1 small long thin aubergine, ideally about 5unt

TO

SAVOURY DISHES SUCH AS

THE SNINO

Or

RONSTEO LNNCOUSTITE

(ence 54) RNo Rultp

or

LnMe Nlgorse (encr 135).

in
sea

diameter

salt, to digorge to digorge

I cut

16 thin slices from the aubergine. Layer the slices

in a colander,

cdster sugdr,

sprinkling each layer lighdy and evenly with sea salt and casrer sugar in equal proportions. Leave to d6gorge for 15 minutes so that any bitter juices are drawn out, leaving the slices limp.

oliue oil,Jorfrying

Pat the slices dry

in a clean tea towel. In

a large frying pan add enough

olive oil to give a depth of lcm/%tn. Heat the oil to about 170C/325"F and. fry the slices until crisp but not too brown. Drain on kitchen paper towels.

:'....j,

::

FINISHING TOUCHES I83

Drying fruits
loenlt.ITHE ovEN MUsr
BE sET AT

ARouNo 80"C/l70"F.Turs

SETTTNG ls

OFTEN LOWER THAN MANY DOMESTIC OVENS CAN MANAGE, UNLESS THE
MODEL
IS

AN OLD-FASHIONED ONE FEATURING A PERMANENT PILOT LIGHT, OR

SETTTNG.

A vERy MoDERN oNE wtrH A DEFRosr

oBLTcE,TURN rr
THE DooR

lr vouR ovEN cANNor

AN ovEN THERMoMETER
AppLEs

ro

rrs LowEST

sETTTNG,

usuALLy I l0'C/225"F,AND pRop

nlnn.You MAy FIND rr

HELeFUL

To

HAVE

tN THE ovEN

To cHEcK

THE TEMpERATunr.

AlrgoucH

rAKE oNLy
cAN TAKE

ARoUND 2-3 uouns up

ro

DRy, soME FRUtrs,

sucH As

STRAwBERRTES,

ro l8

gouRs, so BE pATTENT.THT rnurt MUsr BE sltcED THtNLy AND THE TOUCHING EACH OTHER ON BAKING
BAKTNG sHEETING
SHEETS

SLICES ARRANGED WITHOUT

LtNEDwtrH NoN-slcK srLrcoNE

(see pnce 189

sucH AS Bnre-O-Gt-tor

ron srocrsrs). UNroRruunrEly,

THEsE DRrED FRUrrs

REGULAR BAKTNG pARcH-

MENT IS UNSUITABLE FOR THIS TECHNIQUE AS IT CAN GET WET CAUSING THE

FRUtr

ro sttcr. All

cAN

BE MADE AHEAD oF TIME tN

LARGE BATCHES

AND STORED IN WELL.SEALED.AIRTIGHT CONTAINERS.

Apple castles
pRoresstoNAl KtrcHEN. wE FIND A usE FoR EVERyTHTNG - EVEN npple srtxs! THrs unv rAKE you BACK To youR cHtLDHooD WHEN you

lN

INGREDIENTS

j-4

Cranny Smith apples

TRIED TO PEEL AN APPLE IN ONE GO, WITH THE SKIN SWIRLING INTO A CONTINUOUS SPIRAL, EXCEPT THAT WE THEN DRY OUT THE SPIRAL AND CURL IT INTO AN ARTISTIC SCULPTURE.

150m1/% pint/% cup Stock Syrup (page 23)

juice of % Iemon

Peel the apples thinly in a quite narrow continuous spiral without break-

ing. Dip into a bowl filled with the Stock Syrup mixed with the lemon

juice and place, skin-side up and in

a flat curly'S'shape, on a baking sheet

lined with non-stick silicone baking sheeting. Set the oven to its lowest
possible setting (see above) and leave the skins to dry for about 2)l hours.

2
up

To shape, kneei by the oven with a cooking rack in front ofyou. Pick
a

length of dried skin and curl it into a 3-D

shape,

like a sculpture.This

will start to harden and crisp so you need to work quite fast. The curling process may take a little time to perfect, so persevere. Store in a large
airtisht container.

I84 FINISHING TOUCHES

Apple tuiles
WT A
SERVE

THEsE

As A DEcoRATIoN FoR
SORBETS

DESSERTS

AND AS

AN

INGREDIENTS

ACCOMPANIMENT

TO

AND

ICE-CREAMS, BUT THEY ALSO MAKE

2 Cranny Smith

apples
;a

LovELy swEET sNAcK,

RESEMBLTNG

AS THEy

Do AppLE cnrses. Jusr

150m1/% pint/% cup Stock Syrup (page 23)

TWO APPLES WILL MAKE A LOT OF SLICES. IT HELPS TO HAVE A MANDOLIN

juice of % lemon., strained

ff s
!&

TO DO THE SLICING.

fi

I 2

Neatly core the apples, nraking sure the coring is quite cenrral. Pour
Using a nrandolin or a very sharp knife, cut the apples into slices about the lemon syrup to just coat, then arrange in a single

the Stock Syrr"rp into a bowl and mix with the lemon juice. 1mm//oin thick.

3 Drop these into

layer on a baking sheet lined with non-stick silicone baking sheeting.

4 Dry out in the oven on its lowest

possible serting (see page 183) for

about 2 hours, then remove the slices

in

relays and place them over

rolling pin to curl. If you renrove them all at once they will crisp before
you can curl them.Alternatively, if you have a French baguette tin, curl the
slices inside the tubes. However,

if you find curling difficult, bear in mind

the slices also look attractive served flat.

.r'iii

FINISHING TOUCHES I87

Dried strawberries
lr oruen FRUtrs cAN
BE DRTED, wHy

Nor

sTRAWBERRIEs?

ArreR sovE
oNE oF
MAKEs

INGREDIENTS
Large weII- shaped strawberries, hulled

HouRs oF EXpERtMENrrruc, I CAME up wtrH A wAy oF

pRESERVTNG

THE BEsr-LovED SUMMER FRUtrs. TurrR wnreR-THtN ELEGANcE

THEM rDEAL As DELTcATE DEcoRATtoNs

ron

eROLErs

AND tcE-cREAMs.

I Thinly

slice the strawberries lengthways. Discard the end slices and

1ay

the large, middle slices out on baking sheets lined with non-stick silicone baking sheeting. Make sure the slices don't touch each other.

2 Dry out in the oven on its lowest

will

possible setting (see page 183) for

14-18 hours untii crisp and dry.Test one by snapping it in half.The colour
have become more muted but the beautiful translucence more than makes up for it.

Candied orange peel

Tgrs

rnrrs
AND

A vERy
IS

vERSATTLE GARNIsH

FoR BorH swEET AND sAVouRy

INGREDIENTS 2-3
oranges

DISHES

AN EXCELLENT USE FOR

LEFTOVER ORANGE PEEL,

150m1/% pint/% cup Stock Syrup (page 23)

I 2 3

Peel the oranges thinly, making sure there is no bitter pith attached to

the skin, and cut the peel into very fine julienne strips. Blanch the peel in boiling water for 1 minute, drain then refresh in cold

water. Par dry

with kitchen paper towels.

Pour the Stock Syrup into a saucepan and bring to the boil. Add the spoon, remove

blanched peel and simmer for about 10 minutes.

4 Using a slotted

the peel from the Stock

Syrup

and spread the strips out on a tray lined with non-stick silicone baking
sheeting. Place the tray in a very low oven, or a warm airing cupboard, for

about 45-50 minutes to dry out.

KP

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I88 GLOSSARY

G lossary
Aigre-doux A
sauce combining sweet

and sour flavourings.

encased

CrePinette A minced patty of meat in caul fat and fried.

Pov6 Literally, a slab, this is used to describe food cut into a neat shape, usually a square or rectangle, e.g. fish or
chocolate cake.

Amuse-gueule Literally, a mouth amusement, a bite-sized canap6 served at the very start of a meal to tease the palate.

Dariole Originally a small cake, now more often a term used to describe small individual moulds with sloping sides.
Deglaze To dilute pan juices produced when frying meats and vegetables, using
water. stock. vincgar or wine.

Bamix A hand-held electric blender

used to pur6e or beat foods until smooth, or to whisk up liquids into a cappuccino froth. (For supplier see page 189.)

Beignet A
fried fritter.

sweet or savoury deep-

D6gorge To encourage the release of bitterjuices from ingredients such as

aubergines, cucumbers, courgettes and

Non-stick baking parchment Ovenproof silicone-coated material used to prevent food and mixtures from sticking during baking. Sold under several brand names including llakeO-Glide. Re-usable and durable, and great for home-dried fruits, as well
as

meringues and tuiles.

Blanch To dip fresh food briefly into boiling water to soften it on the outside whilst the centre remains crisp. Blanched food is often then'refreshed'in cold
water (see right).

tomatoes by sprinkling them with salt and sugar.This process a-1so softens them sulficiently for gentle frying.

Reduce To boil a liquid in an uncovered liquid evaporates, the flavour becomes more concentrated.
pan. As the

lnfuse To steep herbs, spices or other flavourings in a hot liquid so rhat rhey impart their delicate fragrance. Julienne Food, generally vegetables, cut into very thin strips. Named in honour
of an 18th-century Paris chef,Jean Julien.

Refresh To plunge just boiled

vegetables into ice-cold water for about 1-2 rninutes to stop cooking and preserve the colour, flavour and texture. After draining, the vegetables are kept

Brandade A dish offlaked fish

mixed with other ingredients, usllally including potatoes.

chilled and covered ready for reheating and serving.

until it

Caramelize To heat or cook a food starts to turn a luscious golden

brown and ukes on a slighrly smoky

flavour.

Liaison Combining thickening agents with a liquid, e.g. eggs and cream, flour
and milk.

Cassonade A custard with a burnt sugar topping. From the French word
cassant,

Mille-feuille Literally, 1,000

leaves,

meaning brittle.

membrane lining of a pig's stomach used in charcuterie and sausage-making. Used as a wrapping. it bathes ingredients in moisture, holds them together and leaves a delicate lacy pattern when cooked. Caul fat can be ordered in advance from speciaiity butchers and must be soaked before use.

Caul

fat The thin

normally associated with high-risc puff pastry desserts but now often used to describe finely layered foods.

Roast To cook food exposed to open fire or in the oven. In restaurant kitchens the term is also used to describe cooking in a hot. lighrly-oiled Frying pan. srarring on top of the stove, then sometrmes finishing in a hot oven.

Muslin Very fine, loosely woven cotton cloth used for wrapping foods or to line colanders and sieves for filtering liquids until very clear. It can be ordered through
kitchen mail-order companies.'Well worn, but clean, tea towels or disposable kitchen
cloths make suitable alternatives.

Quenelle Food shaped into an oval using 2 spoons.We shape rce-cream, whippcd cream and even rice pudding into decorative quenelles to make an excellent garnish.

Clarify To remove the solid deposits from liquids by straining through a cloth,
e o mc]fc.l hrrffPr
as

Saut6 To fry food quickly in a sma1l amount of hot oi1. From the French word sauter, to jump, which the food appears to do when rhe frying pan ir
shaken.

Nage From the French verb nager,to A light clear 'broth' or court-bouillon made with fish or vegetables.At the
swim.

Sweat To fry food, generally

vegetables.

Concasse Evenly chopped food such Tomato Concasse (page 97).

Confit

Literal.ly, a conserve.The food is

Aubergine, we makeVegetable Nage each day and use it in conjunction with meat and fish stocks to lighten them without diluting the flavour. It is also a good allpurpose stock and very simple to make.

very gently in a covered pan. using only a small amount of oil so that beads ofsteam fa1l back onto the food to
baste and moisten

it during the
fresh

cooked very gent\ in fat or oil and then stored in the same fat or oil.

cooking process.

Noppe To coat food rhinJy and evenly with a sauce using a tabiespoon.The correct
technique is important! The sauce should

Tian A mould of fine1y chopped

vegetables.

Court-bouillon A flavoured or aromatic

liquid in which to poach fish, seafood or
vegetables.

flow from the side of the spoon, not the tip,

so that

Turned

Vegetables shaped into neat

it

gLides evenly over

the food.

barrel shapes using a sma1l paring knife.