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Highland Heaven and Hell Scotland

From Liverpool to the Lakes

Putting on the Ritz London

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English Matters Food and Drink Tour of Great Britain

41 Oggy, Oggy, Oggy! 91 Say Cheese! () 141 There's Lovely LOW 191 From Liverpool to the Lakes 241 Highland Heaven and Hell 291 The Real Deal 341 Food of the Empire (
About the Author: George Sandford
In a varied career, George Sandford spent a number of summers working as 2' Chef in a busy restaurant in the Al garve, Portugal, preparing a mixture of English and Portuguese cuisine for op to 1(3) customers per evening While travelling around the UK working as a consultant, he had the opportunity to sample local regional fare and eat one too many Fall English Breakfasts These ds, he still cooks, but only for pleasure Favourite Chef, Keith Flr, favourite Ingredients, garlic, olive oil, basil and, politically incorrect, butten favourite meal, braised pork chops withmashed potato, peas and onion grasy how very British!

381 A Change of Plan 421 Putting On the Ritz '

461 Food and Drink Tour Quiz

English Mailer. RsaskunprGead.6ny: e.na..a DSkn4, Or., D,l;,l,ar-aau .16,..lBllain dr.caan,k Reasklornenelne, Kaawyras,ru,l,nwk, ci L.l,i,knll 0414000, MIne 633 6120 Wan. 24 Ruse.: 501am r,wal,a 'nm ctLtRFuLMrta

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Qggy, Oggy, Oggy!

Our intrepid travellers ferry across the Channel from France to hear some rail rates of tin mines, dark deeds of wreckers and to sample the unique Cornish Pasty.

4 French Starter

net enough of them and actually import sparkling Calvados. 'Umm, delicious,' them from Poland! As an Englishman, gutnnDorota, adding 'l bet you haven't Strangely enough, we start our food I can't go along with the idea that gg& got a drink iQ..tich this in England.' and drink tour of Great Britain not ifgpQs were designed for eating, and 'Actually, we have,' I reply gntl in England, but France. Dorota has the process of wheedline them out of bull can see I'll have my work cat 001 taken up an invitation to visit friends the shell with a wooden pin is rather persuading her that British food is the in Normandy. Naturally, they try to fiddly for my tastes. The next coarse bee's knees. After emotional goodbyes, we catch impress us with some of the local bill improves, with ham and cheese galof fare and insist that we try snails ettes (a kind of lightly gonicod goittuise the ferry from St. Maio to Plymouth. washed down with some The journey takes nine and a half hours The French just can't with a fried in ggflc. filling), ooggy I riastko i starter I przystawka Intake op I przfitf bill of fare I jadlonpo to insist I ealegaf fried I srraony garlic I zosnek ato get enough ofsth I rniperzegoi doff to go along with the idea I prgodzif ty ziaktf rnyilai gastropod I brzurhorrot to wheedle sth out of nIh I wydfabac mi o moegof pin I kofek fiddly I pot. rseporyrzry worse I danie to improve I polepszai cooked I got000ey pancake I ralefrnk Oiling I nodnene to wash down I tcosptakai. pophckac osparkling I goanwarry to pare I mracze& ramruczef to add I dodawaf to bet I zakiadaf sig to match I ta,dtriwsaf defiantly I wyzrysajro to have one's work cut out liar them) I mief przed stby nit lada aryznanit, irmiei d0zki orzech do zgryz onis the bee's knees I pot. Bog wie Co ferry I prom B

english uallee, food and drink tsar of Great Britain 5/2013

Cornwall

-'

across the English Channel, which lock- the starting point for the famous ily is calm, because we both suffer from Land's End to John o'Gruats' journey seasickness and would hate to throw up (in the far north of Scotland), which links the two furthest points on the our recent meal! island. We don't go that far down, Dark Deeds on Bodmin but we have to take in Jamaica Inn. Plymouth is a town with a proud The enonvmous honk by Daphne Do rnmjlie history, and people such Manner immortalised the tavern in as Sir Francis Drake, James Cook, a chilling tale of gixaot, smuggling Charles Darwin and Sir Francis and wrecking. Chichester all set sail from here. r' We're fftflied to stop a while and explore the historic Barbican area, but we're here in search of oggies and for the real McCoy. We need to cross over the River Tamar and drive into I neiehbnurinn Cornwall. It's the magto light [ zapalat ical, mystical county of King Arthur, St Piran's flag of Cornwall and it's beacon own Brythonic language similar to goods I dab perpetrator Welsh and Breton. It's placed 01.1120 IQQL.QL Britain, the toe of which is

.. .

a In suffer from I rierpief na seasickness I rhortba mrrska to throw up I zw5miotownf meal I posfek deed I rzyr, postpek maritime I marski to ret sail Iwyraszai tntempt J kusif

barbican I barbakan in search of w poszukrwaniu tn crass caer I przerrnierzyf neighbouring I sosindajycy at the foot of I u stop, c podrta In link I f4czyf farthest I nujdalszy inn I gospoda, eajazd

eponymous I ttiiI nay In immnrtalisn I uriiekniertelniai chilling I rnroifcy piracy I pirartoo, korsarntwo smuggling I przenrycanie, przerrft wrecking I ruabijanie statkdw lawabianin statkfw en skafyl

rnglish matters trod and drink tour of Great Britain 15/2013

 Cornwall

We head off across the bleak Budmin Moor and find our way to the town of Bodmin where we sniff.yut a local bakuty. I pQiltg Dorota to ask for two freshly hat oggies. 'Are you sure they'll understand?' She says glggl fuJI 'it's such a strange word.' 'Well,' I infomt her, 'they're more soiglefy known as Cornish Pgtutgh, you could try that.' So Dorota asks, 'have you got any pasties?' Adding, 'to be honest, I don't really mow what they are.' The helpful lady assistant with a funny accent says, 'Of course my dear, and I'll tell you all about them.'

the original ones were divided into two halves inside; the first part would be savoury with meat and yg. and the second half sweet with baked fruit of the season. It Pcoufu a complete, two course meal. The wives would take the freshly baked pasties tothemines and call down thethdfk ito head off F zmierzaf bleak I ptsypny to sniff out I wyusszvr bakery I piekamia to prompt I saktaniai freshly baked I iwuezn upierrony doabtfutly I z powytprewanierrs widely powszechnie pasty I pasrteoik tin nine I kopalnia ryny many moons ago I wiete ksiqzyctiw major I ytiwny industry I przemys+ suspend I spydzai underground I pod uemiq it goes without saying I tie pozostawla, nb ulegowytphwoiri

'liggy, oggy, oggy!' To show they were ready, the husbands would call back, 'Oi, ni, oi!'Then the women would throw the pasties tfQsoti to the men. The hard, ridged hack would enable the men to hold the oggy with their dirty hands. Then, when finished, this part would be thrown away strength I siya cussed I zakrrywiony ridged I prqdkowany back I tyt spine I krggostup, tsegrzbiet outside I zewnytmzny shortnrust I zrubiony z krurhrgo ciasta pastry I ClastO casing I polewa eta divide I daelij savoury I smakowity,arnmatyczny ueg I warzywo fruit of the season I twos sezunu to provide I dostarrrai shah I sryh inn throw down I zrzurat to enable I umoiliwivi to throw away I wyrrucad

A Tail rate ot'Tin Mines

'Many moons ago, the tlldJQf judasfly of Cornwall was tin mining. It was hard, dangerous work, and the men SpOol hours undernmund. It roes without sayittg that they needed something to keep their sirength up, so their wives baked them pasties. They were quite large with a ggynf, rbiggd fgiy, like the sni&e of stegosaurus dinosaur. The outride part is made with a shottcrust paslty cysjtt and

english matters trod and drink tour of Great Britain 15/2013

Cornwall

iQ.tiiathte the 'knockers' - those were the )fgg, evil spirits that caused the mines to cave in killing miners. Sadly, these days, we don't have the working tin mines but thankfully, we still have oggies! Would you like them hot or cold my lovely?' We have them hot and find a nearby park bench on winch to devour them. They're rather pgppgty and very filling. 'Do you believe the story the lady told us?' asks Dorris, 'it seems rather fills fetched,' 'Of course,' I reply, 'don't you?'

The Great Pasty Debate

Everybody from the celebrity chef to the !tgttgig housewife has their own idea of what constitutes the perfect pasty. ins gmienlu may be as varied as pnmn beef, minced itirn)2, 0tiil5 canals and even cheese and a dash of Worcester Sauce, but all such inclusions would incur the wrath of the titmun. There is even an association dedicated to upholdin the integtity ate placate I przeblaguk ulugoded knocker I kolutka, Inn Cornwall - skrzat/ dtch kopalni, tstrzegajycl przed bydi wyssolujycy typsiyc:a creaking I skrzypqcy to cane in I zapadaf sly thankfully, I ra szcayicie body I SIicZtV to devour I ptierat peppery I pieprarry, ostry far-fetched I nucrygoty Iambic I skromny to constitute I stonowid ingredient I skiadnik varied I zrznlctwany prime I paraszego golarku minced I mielorry lamb I jegniynra peas I grosrrk

of the gostome article, so we should allow the Cornish Pasty Association to have the last word and one us straiaht, 'A genuine Cornish pasty has a distinctive'D'shape and is crimped on one side, never on top. The texture of the filling is ciinnipg made up of uncooked minced or Q.ugffly cut chunks of beef (not less than 12.596), swede or lump, potato and onion and a light peppery vensonin. The pastry casing is golden in colour, savoury, glazed with milk or egg and robust enough to retain its shape throughout the cooking and cooling process without splittin or crackpg. The whole pasty is slow-baked and

no flavorings or additives must he used. It most also be made in Cornwall.' A ptongr pasty, as it were, is exactly that; all it takes to complete the process is 45-minute hake in a preheated oven at 180 degrees until the pastry case torus a beautiful golden colour., only then is it a Genuine Cornish Pasty!' Source: Cornish Pasty Association:

http. ,Ilwww.properposty.co.ukleornishpasty-trademarkl
Now, if you'd like to Ire vase hand at making your own perfect pasty, here's a recipe. It doesn't quite conform 10 the purist convention, but it's rinse enough and certainly makes your mouth tyaunsr!

dash I kropba,ndrobirra inclusion I dtdatek,wkladka to incur I norazif se flu wrath I grurw. ubarzrriir purist I purysta association I stcwaraysaersie to uphold I atrzymywaf w mocy, prpierui genuine I prawdzrwy, tryginalny to allow I puzwalaf to have the lest word I mief ostatnie sinwo to pat sb straight I prayssolaf kupti do poruydku distirctioo I oynizniajyry sq crimped I zaciskany texture I straktara chunky I gruby, miysisty, z dulymi kanalkomi mesa buS owocdw made up of I zrabiony roughly I tiogrrsbt thank I kowal

swede I brukiew turnip I rztpa seasoning I przyprawa glazed I pnlary, oblany robust I wytroymaty, mncny to retain I zacbowaf throughout I ptdczas to split I roapadac sly to crock I pykat slow-baked I wtlno piecztoy efl000ring I arornat additive I dtdatek proper I wiaf tiny preheated I rragrzaty In rozgrzanym do odpnwiedniej tempuratury piekarnikul wen I pirkarnik to turn I turaberaf corny one's hand all spribtwai to water I ilinil sly Iustol,lzowc (ncus)

eoglish matters food and drink tour of Omal Britain 15/2013

ME Cornwall
Cornish Pasty - Traditional British Recipe
One thing that makes the Cornish pasty different to similar foods around the world is that the ingredients must not be cooked before they are placed in the pastry and seared. They must be baked completely from taw. Don't worry that because the meat is cooked from raw it will not be fully cooked. Just make sure you dice the meat small - around the size recommended in the recipe below (Note that many British recipe honks show quantities both in metric and imperial measurements - you can also find some strange measurements such as spoonful of sugar and a gjjrjt of salt!). Makes 4-6 depending on size. Shortcrust pastry 12 Q (350g) flour 1/4 teaspoon salt fi oz (175g) venetable shortenino or margarine Water for mixing Filling 12 no (225g) lean beef steak cut into 1 cm cubes (just under 1/2 inch) 4oz(tt0g) chopped onion 3 oz (75g) turnip - diced 8 oz (225g) potato - diced Salt and pepper to season Small pinch of thyme Mix all filling ingredients together in a bowl and set aside. Glaze Beaten egg METHOD 1. Mix salt into flour 2. Rub fat into flout until it resembles breadcrumhs 3. Add water slowly until you have a stiff dough. 4. Divide into 4-6 pieces and roll each piece into a circle shape. Place a 6- (15cm) or 8-inch (20cm) plateau the pastry and cut around it with a knife.
i seared I nbsmaiony

S. Divide the uncooked meat mixture into the number of pastry 'circles' you have, placing the filling in the middle of each pastry round. 6. Brush the rim of the pastry with beaten egg and bring the two sides of the pastry together to meet over the top of the filling, (Or at the side, if you don't want lujigaut the Cornish Pastry Association!) 7.Pinch the edges together into a sort of scallopedggit. You will now have a half-moon shaped pasty. 8. Make a small slit on each side of the pasty to let the steam escape and brush with the beaten egg. 9. Bake at 220C (425P) for 20 minutes until 3jjgi1tl1hrowned, then lower heat to 170C (325F), for a further 40 minutes. Can be eaten hot or cold.
source: nro,ch Food. Com,oh Pestles: 'ttod a000l n,,tl,h Rnpe Ewy to Mokr Sll,00101.,um hep//natrelol.rom/orrinte/bnuioh-faad-csrsinh-postiec. r4818ea,00z201D6jI1U

raw I surowy to dice I ptszathawai w kostkq to recommend I zalecaf metric I metryczny, miarmoy imperial I dntyczqco imparium brytyjokiego, moper airy measurement I miara spoonful I fyfereka pinch I szroqptu depending on I wzaleinoicu 00 oz(ounce) I uricia aegetable shortening I tlaszcz rot linny Inn I niskokaloryrzny

cube I ktstka inch I cal chopped I postekany thyme I tynianek to set aside I adstaw:E ma ink glaze I polena beaten I ahoy to rub I trzei, rozc erai fat I tloszcz to resemble I przypominai breadcrumbs I bulka larta stiff I sz!ywry dough I ciastn na cot do up:eczenia to cut around 5th I ciqf wokilczegns

a uncooked I nieugotowany to brush I notrzei sins I krawgdi, skrui to upset I niepokoiL martwif to pinch I icisnyf edge I krawqdi scalloped I moszelktwaty crest I herb half-moon I pillrsqzyc slit I nactyc steam I part slightly! ukko to brown I arumienif, podrumienif to lower I obni2at

english mailers loud and drink loan of Great Britain I 5/201 3

Devon and Somerset

Tea for Two in Devon
Heading back east and into Devon, we cross over Dartmoor, populated by a beautiful herd of wild ponies; let quite amazing to see them finning around and grazing iteiy, and Dorota wants to get and stroke them, but I manage to dissuade her because I'm feeling gedtisii. We drop down into the town of Mortonhamstead which is where I've got my second surprise of the day in store for Dorota. fiJthoogh it's morning and this is more of an afternoon 0-eat, I find a traditional English Tea Shop and order two Devon Cream Teas. DonOa asks how many calories it has and my advice is 'don't even go there - we're on holiday after alt, which is no time for counting calories.' As it arrives, we salivate with the anticipation of Pavlovian dogs and can't wait to taste, the delicious fresh cream. tim yom! It tastes every hit as good as it looks.

Scrumping and Scrumpy

Suitably rg5lQgg, we continue our journey east. This certainly is n soy cheese I pnwedz 5cr Izdanie aipeafle przez angielsktrtzycanych fttsgrafaj4cych, asymowa siowa ,aheesn' wymaga ulozenia list przyponrnalqcego ainniecirl otohead back I wrisi to cross now przejechaf przez herd I stadn to runaround I biegaEwokil Ingram I patisif freely I swobodrse to get out I wvsiadat to stroke I poglaskai to dissuade I wypenswadnwaf peckish I nero zgodnialy, rnaiyoynrhntt flu male co fliect to drop down I zatraynaf siy although I rho/az treat I prczystunek to order I zamawlaf to salivate I flinit sit anticipation I wyczekioane, nierierpliwois to taste I prbhnwaf to scrump I pet podkradat jab+ka scrumpy I morn5 jablocznik, MY cydr suitably I tdpowiodtio restored I twodiwieiony certainly I a caly pewnttinq

Say Cheese!
From Devon to Somerset in the South West of England, our food bulls sample a glass or two of delicious, sparkling Cider and find themselves gorging on Cheddar Cheese.

enulish rnalters laud and drink tour of Great Britain 15/2013

U Devon and Somerset

The WurzeLc
wemaoisine. They wear traditional country clothing of Victorian farm laftotaroro and their greatest hits inclatig, I've Got a Brand New Combine blacuouter and lam a Cider Drinker. genre I rodzaj in combine I lyozyf bawdy I sproiny frequently I czysto womanising I kobieriarstwo, ufan anie sly zo spidniczbarni labourer I rnbotn to include I zowirraf, wfyczaf harvester I kombajn Somerset is synonymous with cider leaktang, and them are a otytjad of iodependentfanos from Bathford to Yeovil all producing their own tiftihicilve brew. Just as an aside, I have to tell you that Yeovil is famous for its football gjich because it's on a ojggg. Players ti!t tilIbill one hall and downhill the other! It probably hiohi level after a few ivis of scrumpy! We call into a local shop and buy a couple of bottles of Sheppy's Farmhouse Cider, but don't worry, I won't be drinking and driving, I'd be as drunk as a skunk, so we'll save them for a pjglgggp tonight. fissure cut into the side of one of the Mendip Hills. We drive on the B3135 which runs right through it; Dorota gets to took op at the sheer cliff face above, but I have to keen my eves neeled for uttcotttgtg cars! The road is chock-ablock with tourists. Eventually, we park balmy I kOjqCVr balsarnrzny In take Sb back to I zabieraf kogot z powrntem do, prospomirn! komut (no dziec Sstwo) childhood I dzivdhstwo In tan sb's behind I clef komuk na tylek In filch I pot. zwdziE, poibieraf Con's Orange Pippins I cdrr anajabiek to collar I par z+apad capnqi darwad to sample I sprdbowad wypribowuf delight I rozkosz local yokel I pot prj. w etroak nub arrh! I pal. pe) zdanie uzyware przez lokalny ludnoff lab ludnoft z innych rejonOw naokreflrnie local yokels' naively I naiwnie Old Pig I jedna z marek opera to end up I skohczyd flat I plusko to confuse I zmieszaf a myriad I niezliczona hoff distinctive I charaktrrystyrzrayuyrfiniajycy , shy brew I nopur, gatunrk (pica) pitch I bnisko slope I wzgbrzo to kick I kopaf uphill (pod gory, pod tirky downhill I zgOrkowdOf to look level I uglydaf/wydawuc sit plaskin, jar i per sahianka an drunk as a skunk I pijonylak szewc nightcap I lu:kiehiszrk przed snrm to gorge on sib I pot polulaf cot to take a drive anti wybrad shy ru przrjazdiky landmark I punkt crientocy;n5 gorge wywor porbw spectacular I widouiskowy feature I wiataiwoti narrow I wyski nfl55ure I szrzrlina sheer I stromy In keep one's eves peeled for 5th I roof sif ra bacznotch przed czymt, uwaznie cuegot uypatycoof oncoming I nadlozdzabyoy chock-a-block I natoy, zapohany eventually I ostutecznie

Formed in 1966, the group created a ganra known as Scrumpy and Western which Cttrotti900 country music with Itatutit English folk songs, Iraituenlly about drinking and a pretty part of the world; it's a balmy summer's day with a gentle breeze that takes me back to my childhood days of scrumping. Old Mrs Norris would have ggfliig our behinds if she'd caught us flioliju her pride Cox's Orange Pinnins, but she was always too slow to collar us. Now if there's use thing better than eating apples, it's drinking them in the form of scrumpy and cider. To sample these tigjJgjlls, we're heading off into the heart of the West Country, to Somerset, home of Cheddar Cheese, Taunton Cider and of course local yokels, The Wurzels - ooh arrh! Dorota's never tasted cider before and asks jyajyoly, 'Is it like apple juice?' 'Kind of,'[ reply, 'only after a few glasses of Old.ftg, you gad up flat on your back.' I think my answer cmifnsgs her.

Gorging On Cheddar
Seeing that it's such a lovely day, I just have to take a drive out to one of Britain's loveliest landmarks: Cheddar Gorge. It's a pretty spectacular geographical feature with a ueam deep

Cider
Cider is made by taking apples and crushing them in a nrauu I000tfact the juice which is then fermented On form alcohol. Cider is itliuruil, clear and usually sparkling Scrumpy in typically stronger than rider in alcohol, cloud with bits of apple and sometimes flat PSIgy is similar to cider but made from pears to crush I miazdzyf, rozgniatoc press I prasa,tloczraa to entrant I isyrisnyf,wytloozyf, wydobyd filtered I filtrowany cloudy! mytny Perry I naplj podobny do cydni, ale robiony a gruszuk

english muller-s feud and drink lear of Great Britain 1 5/2013

Devon and Somerset

'1

up and make our ascent up the manmade, 274 steps of Jacob's Ladder to the top. It's a rather luxin climb but well mggLh it. Naturally, I have to take a photo of IJorota with the Gorge in the background. To get her to smile. I use the photographer's classic rttcbphtgte, 'Say cheese.' 'Cheese!' obliges Dorota, and I capture her beautiful smile. No phrase could be more fitting as we head back down and continue our journey to the nearby town of Cheddar. My gtig5i is to buy a roundel of genuine Cheddar Cheese from its oancent I weitcie na tzczit toning I wvczerpuiqcv, mtcztcv climb I wspinaczka worth warty in the background I in tie catchprane I hoslo to oblige I tbligtwah naklonc to capture I achcd fitting I pasqyry, adekaatrry quest I rflisJa roundel I rtrrdel, twkrygIseroI genuine I prowdziwyon/ginalriy n nowadays I obecnie

original town. Nowadays, it's a ggggojc term for cheeses that can he found in almost every county of England and as far afield as Canada and Australia. There is no tihalago of cheese shops in the town and the one we're in has igofy morsels to sample on the counter. 'Urn, that's the real deal,' I say, 'offr tohile, sharp and igtigx with plenty of bite. Even Dorota has to concede that the English can make good cheese after all - a point to me! I splash on on a whole ohcc1 of the cheesy delight; hoping it will last until I get back to generic I ogolny afield I oddairny shortage I brok tasty I pyszry morsel I pot. kysek counter I lain off-white I bialawy tangy I pikartry,rstv to concede I przyznai o point to me I punkrdlo mine to splash out I szarpnqi sit na cod, rdai on cot (pienqdze) lekky ryczky wheel I fokryglsenal

Poland, that's if I'm not yggyptyd to eat it first! Back at our hotel, after a quick shower to freshen up we make our way down to the dining room which specialises in west-country cuisine. We pettago the moon; it's a quite hiantic agtag of dishes; can these really be traditional? It seems that they are let's see, we have: Baked Mackerel with Gooseberry Sauce Cheese Ramekins Cornish Buttered Lobster ntotempt I kusii to freshen op I titwielyt sit to specialize I sptcjal:zowai sq to peruse I przyjrzni siq badawczo, uwonin przerzytai bizzom I iziwny array I zestaw gooseberry I agrout ramekin ! nazwa pojnmruka,w ktrym gotowany Jest 505 lobster I homor

english mailers fond and drink tour of Great Britain 1 5/201 3

U Devon and Somerset

Cheddar Gorge
The Gorges thought to have been formed over a million years ago by nermafrest and melting ice. Its legacy is a labyrinth of caves, in one at which, Britain's oldest complete skeleton was found (thought to be 9,000 years old). The gorge machun o depth of 137 metres with u otaup north fare and Is on extremely popular tourist attraction and a Mecca for climbers, and tisituifibto observing lenin Qf. prey gilding .Qflthe Ifiarmaltu above the gorge. parmaf rant I zmarzlina legacy I syadek to reach) nsygai steep I shortly twitcher I pot obseraator prakdw bird at prey I pak drayezry to glide an I tIizgat sit na thermal I ciepty pryd wznoszyty(n wieirze)

Dorset ,jngggil Steak LiisjcyPie Mussel and Onion fileR Pork chops with Cheese and Beer Rabbit Cider Bo.ipo.t Being a lover of seafood, Dorota plumps for Mussel and Onion Stew; it wouldn't he my choice, but if it impresses her, it will be money well spent. The good thing is that the mussels are out of their shells because I'm not one for playing with or having to fight my food before I can eat it. In fact, it's really scrummy and Dorota is so taken with it that she asks our jouR rotund waitress if there's any chance of having the recipe. 'Well, my dear, I don't know,' she hoajisles, 'it's a trade secret really but seeing as you're on holiday, I might make an exception - as long as you promise not to tell a soul.' 'I won't,' assures Dorota, adding, 'cross my heart and hope to die.' 'Well,' retorts our buxom waitress

joylall 'as long as you remember to what's been a really fun day. 'Do you ggjggt the mussels that don't open their mind if t put the TV on,' I ask, 'it's been ages since I watched any English shells, you should be all right!' We retire to our mum and open the folly.' But Dorota doesn't reply - she's scrumpy that we've sinoggiguf in. Dsr- flat out and sleeping like a baby. Looks 00 likes it and thirstily giargigs half like I'm going to have to finish off her a glass. Lying on the bed, we reflect on cider; I guess it's just hard cheese) r jugged I dvsznry Libkg Pie I tradytylne ciastn korirwahiskie zaw era;4ce beknn, fir etang jaja, pnry i nrleko mussel I omulek stew I gulasz chop I knrlet hotpot I m ysv duszone z cebaly I ziemr akami to plump for I pot. reucaf sit na tube taken with ath I byl caymi ajytyrr jolly I wennty rotund I pulchny to hestitate I aahai sit nut to tell a saul I nepcwiedziei zyay dusty In assure I zapewriai to cress one's heart) pnzysiygut to retort I ndpnwiodz et buxom I p erslasta, biuicias!a)kobiela) a jovially I lowialme, wesoto to reject I ndrzucai to retire an I odejti Ivy. do pnkojiwl, udaf sy Ira spouzyriek, do snul to snuggle I przvrrryrii thirstily I tvpceywe to guzzle I wy/iknpak u'a,/clnla( a telly I par, taloaizja an be flat out I pal. byf wppnmpnwavym wyknrennym to finish off I sknhczyf, wykorrczyc hard cheese I pit. ,trudnn' Iwypowiedziarre ry do osoby nareekajycel flu rot, ,,musztarda pa obiedz vi

12

english critters land and drink tour of (treat Britain 1 5/2013

- Recipe

Mussel And Onion Stew

Mussels fresh from the rocks of the West Country make this substantial stew an unusual main course. Good quality mussels are wjdyly available and, so long as you discar the dead ones, should not cause digestive trouble. This stew is easier to eat than mussel dishes where the shells are not removed. Serves 4 It's well worth going to the trouble of preparing mussels, when they are so delicious, served swimming in creamy white wine sauce. Have plenty of bread for monoinu us the juices. 2 (4 1/2 lb) fresh mussels 150 ml (1/4 pint) dry white wine 25 g (1 oz) butter 2 large onions, skinned and chopped 251(1 Or) plain wholemeal flour 300 ml (1/2 pint) fresh milk 30 ml (2 tbsp) chopped fresh ppjgy 30 ml (2 tbsp) fresh single cream 1. To prepare the mussels, wash them thorouihly under runnina cold water, then scrape of any barnacles with a small sharp knife. Cut off the fibrous beards that protrude from between the shells. Wash in several changes of water. Discard any that are cracked or do not close when ippgd ahutgbr with a knife. 2. Put the wine in a large saucepan and bring to the boil. Add the mussels; cover and cook over a high heat for 3-4 minutes or until the mussels open, sluicing the pan occasionally. Discard any mussels that have not opened. 3. Drain the mussels, rotoppin the juice. Remove mussels from the shells. a substantial I tr&rwy main course I gldwne danie widely I prnszerhnie mailable I dostypny to discard I 0/macni digestive trouble I WopotV traw000e to remooe I usuwat plenty I dma to mop up I wyoeraf skinned I nbrany me skirki chopped I posmnkany ' wholemeal ,1 pelnoziarnisty parsley I pretrusuka thoroughly F dokiodnie

11

1,

and Somerset

4. Miii the butter in a saucepan and lightly fry the onions for about 5 minutes, until soft but not coloured. Stir in the flour and conk for a minute. 5. Gradually add the milk and the mussel cooking liquid, stirring, until the sauce thinkens, boils and is smooth. Simmer for 1-2 minutes. 6. Return mussels to the pan with the parsley and cream. Reheat gently. Serve with crityiy bread Sn,rcr: http:Zfnn.n.allbritishfmd.con/nent%2tcounrry%2orecipec.php to reserve I zachooaf to remove I usanyf 5 t salt I nzpairif On try I smalyf to stir in I wmnieszaf cal w ct/I, wsypaf neszajyr np nyty it wary) gradually I stopniowo tuthirker I gystnuf to bail I gc;awaf smooth I glndki, pozbawrony grudek, plynny to simmer I dusm& gstowuE no wolnyni tgnru to return F twwrzucif to reheat F podgrzewai crusty I shimpiqay

running I tubiezycy to scrape off I zeskrobuc barnacle I pykia tocutoff I tdcqi fibrous I uldkcusty,lykswnty to protrude I 5tercz0/ muystawaf to discard I tdrzucuf cracked I pokrusztey, zmaidony to tap I udeuyt, popmkaf sharply I mncnn saucepan F rnndel to shake I potrzysnyf uccasiurelly I ad czasu do czasa to drain F odsyuzyf

eeglish matters 1usd and drink mar of Great Britain 15/2013

There's Lovely

[c

::l:dIa.Pl I

In the culinary Welsh wonderland, we discover the local form ofsushi find out what's in a Welsh breakfast and prepare a meal that was good enough for French President, Jacques Chirac.
Food aie, as a holiday destination, it's work, so at lunchtime we retireio a local country justice t's hard to do ts, but they're hostel fgt,g,gjnt and a bar meal. in a couple of days, but that's all often overlooked by the Bri ,v we can tgggg on our itinerary for missino out, as the cotmli3' has a lot In ofWales. We crass the Severn Bridge and fer. We head down to the beautiful Gower Looking at the menu of bar snacks, enter the country of dragons, bards and Peninsula on the south coast, The Welsh choirs, but our goitsi is not mythology, urn well astain of its sandy beaches and Dorota notices Welsh Rarebit and cornliterature or music but the edible en- wild natural gigyituns, and we spend the ments, 'look, they've made a mistake; that should say rabbit,' and showing of morning waking up the sun. ijjfties pression of a nation, othere's lovely I walijski odpowednik 'that's lovely' - to iliczne, vitae ala do nIh justice I dobrze/w peirri cod acenif, wlodciwie ref Idlocenuf in couple all w kilko to spare I poiwicid(nip, cod oa coil, dud itinerary I trnsa, plan podrdiy to cross I przemierzad bard I bard, ipiewuk quest I rrssja edible I ladalny aaside I flu bok destination I tel podrtity In overlook I przeoczyf the 8r05 I Orytyjuzyry In miss out I tracif In head down I zmierzaf peninsula I pOsep
aware of sIb I iwiadomy cregos environs I okolice to soak up I riusyczai sly praesiykai it'sthirstyworlr_. I odtegoltej hartiorychce sty pit 3 t retire to I udol sic np, flu spoczynekl hostelry I karczrnu, gospoda tuna pint I na piwo rarebit I tradycyjnewalitshe came to showoff I rznpoprsywaf siy

14

rrsglish oration, loud and drink tour of Great Britain 1542013

Wales
adds, see how good my English is now! Sony to disappoint her, I explain that it's correct, although some people say it oripinates as a meal served after rabbit huntino. But Dorota's not the only one who's got it wrong, as I used to think it was just a daft name for cheese on toast. Whilst melted cheese (preferably Caerphilly) on pieces of toast does form the heart of the meal, it can come in a ytiffdiy of forms, including fondue style with a bchamel sauce. Ours comes with a pptichn_d egg on top and really neit us tip for the rest of the day. We move stilti Pennclawdd, which is famous for its cockles and enjoy a clifftop walk before retiring to a local B&B in the evening.

I was a latecomer to sushi, wanting to avoid its pretentious association and, not being a seal, I was not very excited by the pQpgg, of a diet of raw fish and seaweed. In fact, now I've etirne srQttnt to it and Iran even make a fair ulipeirn at using chopsticks. But it's not just the Japanese who have a taste for seaweed; the Welsh have been eating it for years in the form of Laverbread, and it's most commonly served at breakfast lime. We make our way from our room to the dining room In see what awaits us.

Mrs Jones, the landlad of our modest B&B, is a busy, !yggjjpg lady with
450 dissupuint

a very thycresin smile. 'What's it lobe then,' she asks, 'Full English or Welsh Breakfast?' It's just a question, but somehow, it sounds more like a challenge. It breaks my heart to men down the Pull English but not wanting to offend my host, I reply, 'Welsh.' 'Excellent choice.' she replies triumphantly, and scurries off to the kitchen. She's gone quite a while but luckily we have a big pal of lea to keep us going - although it's stronger than Dorota is used to at home. As is the fashion these days, the icily is blaring away in the dining oferujyca nzcleg Zr ioiadanieml latecomer! spdoiury, spdinialskr It avoid I unrkai pretentious I prrtrnsluralny association Ire skojarzenir, rrydiwiyk/ rhartktrr raegni prospect I perspoktyara raw I surowy seaweed I wodlrtst in fact I us rarcayusistoiri,faktyrznir to came amend to sth I przyorykoyt do cangot, przekosai siy do czrgni attempt I priba chopsticks I paleczki (palrctki slutyce dl jederoia) to await I ocoekiwad landlady I gospodyni bottling I ruclulirsy, zabegany disarming I rozbrajajycy

mom and showing Breakfast TV, but I haven't not a clue what they're saying, as it's all in Welsh! Finally, Mrs Jones brings in two large plates and proudly presents them on the table, adding 'There's lovely mit? figjyc your breaM ant.' It's tittlilte any breakfast I've ever seen before; it's a bizarre combination of cockles, fried bacon and boo eehread. Dorata looks down at the last of these items, wondering what it can he. It's 'luverbread,' I inform. Of course, I haven't told Doryta what's in it and just ask her to try it and tell me what challenge I wyawanr to break one's heart I lanai komut terre to turndown I odrzoraE In offend I obratat to scurry off I pot. ptpydtif quite a while I dluisaa thurila tally I pat, teleaizja to blare may I pot. ryczrd fla ca regulator .1 haven't got a clue I fir mom pogcio finally I w kohcu to bring in I wnosf innit I pot, guvar. cal rio, so rio? enjoy I smacerego unlike I niepodobny biaqane I dZiwfly fried I smuarry laoerbnead I potrawawalijska Zr sekerlofinicy to look down at I spoglydad flu

I rozczartwywaf although I chrciaa to originate I porhodaid wodzd siy z sewed I podawary rabbit hunting I ptlowartie flu kriliki daft I pal. zwarawafly, glspkroaty whilst I podczus gdy melted I roapusaranfly preferably I nailrpiej sanely I rdznorodrrosc including I wlqcarnee poached I gttlwany to setob up I naptdaOf to mane unto I przemFesaczac Siq do cockle I sercdwkajndnloo gutunek malaal cliffttp walk I spacer po saceytach kilter B&B lied & breakfast ostytauja tarystyrafla

eoglish molten load and drink tour of Great Britain 15/2013

Wales

she thinks,Laverbread?' She gttexjgs., is it made hy dragons from volcanoes?' 'No, silly, that's igyg, just try it.' 'Interesting.' replies Dorota, 'it's a little hit ooity and fishy but I don't think it is fish - it's not like anything I've tasted before. I explain that it's boiled and gtttd seaweed, rolled in oatmeal and fried. Being a seafood fanatic, Dorota walls down the cackles that accompany it although she sneaks a bit of the bacon Oslo my plate, worrying about taking on too many calories. When Mrs Jones returns, she's delighted to see that we've cleared our Ito query I Jodekef salty I Slofly fishy I rybay parbed I przetarty, roztirty Ira puree rolled in I obtouzoriyw oatmeal I onsiaeka to wolf down I pot. pozrei, pizeral to accompany I lowarzyszyt to sneak sth unto nIh I podrzucaf col no cot to take on I praybinraf indeed I vu rrerry samej

plates and we confirm that it was jtgg_d heart, she's still a gontiyurg, but here's delicious. All the same, there's little time a riddle; when is a sausage not a saufor hue chuiet!tat as we have a tong drake sage? Answer, when it's a Glamorgan ahead of us to the north of the country. Sausage. Why? Because there isn't an ounce of meat in it; I guess you could .edllfiia1!t0il (lJrGpar. call it vegetarian sausage, as it's made Interesting as the Welsh Breakfast with cheese, leeks and breadcmmbs. It's was, it doesn't fall you tuB in the same yytttttty, but it certainly isn't kielbasa! way that the heavy-duty, immobilisina iv SfEjj ,.d English Breakfast does, and by mid gy, I'm feeling a little pggjyjyh. As we We're still only towards the beginslop off for petrol, we call into an ad a- ning of our trip, and if we carry on at cent shop for something to put into our this rate we'll be as fat as pork pigs by the end, so I've planned a few exlunchtime hdrnflgr. 'Sausages!' Calls________ Out Dnroia. She likes her seafood but at cursions in order to fight the flab. Our all the same nlemniej jednak idle I crazy chit-chat pa1. pogausydka drive I jzzda, prrejoidikn tofillsbcp I napelniai to immobilize inierachamiai by midday I przed poludniem peckish Ilekkaj zgladnraly, rrrajycy ochoty na adjacent I sysladujycy, pnzylegajycy hamper I kosz z pnkrywky to cell out uccykrzykinai seafood I aware rnorza a carnioam I mrysorenao riddle I zagadka leek I par breadrrcmbs I bulkr tarto yummy I par. pyszn sightseeing I zwiedzanie to carry on I konlysuowab at this rate I wtym leropie by the end I pried knfrerrr excursion I wycieaaka in order to I aby, rely, w celu flab I pot. tlaszrzyk

english matters food and drink lore of Great Britain 15/2013

\Vales

first port of call is one of the weirdest villages in the whole of Britain and it's called Portmeirion. On the North Wales Gwynedd coast, it's built in a highly decorative, halianate style. It was the brainchild or folly, of the eccentric designer, Sir dough William Ellis. He wanted to recreate the Mediterranean town of Portofino but somehow it's just surreal. The 'Village' became famous through the cult late sixties TV series The Prisoner, in which a gligin British Spy labelled Number 6, was iroggetj in the village and interrogated through mind games. Gladly, he eventually escaped and the Italian theme has not extended to include a Pizza Hut in the village - that would be too much! Before we head In our final Welsh destination, there's time to have a break from driving and get on a train on the famous Conwy Valley Railway. ffgggy 150 years old, it was originally part of the industrial revolution built to carry valuable Welsh slate from the mountains down to Llandudno. These days, the single-track railway is just for tourists, and we Bits a ride from Betws-y-Coed to Blaenau Ffestiniog. The views and scenery are

spectacular, but have you ever noticed how fresh air makes you hungry?

Tired but content, we check into a rather posit hotel in Conwy. I even checked the hotel menu online higyanc lprnglig sure that they offered the particular meal I'm aft although in this area, to would a weirdest I naldziwnlejszv Italianate I w syria wioskirn brainchild I pornist folly I kapr5s, szaleistsso cult I kultowy retiring I emeryttwany, prrec500r4cy na emerybarp spy I szpog trapped I uwigziony to interrogate I przepytgnac, przeslachiwai eventually I w koica theme I wtrk to extend I r000ygai 5mg to have a break I zrobii sobie prZerwy nearly I prawie Industrial I prznmvysloisy

he a shock if they didn't. Perhaps without Rick Stein, it would still be a secret. On his TV programme, Food Heroes, the celebrity chef with a passion for real food and fresh ingredients, featured Welsh Salt Marsh Lamb as the tastiest, most ignilos succulent lamb on the planet. He even served it at Downing Street when Prime Minister Tony Blair invited the French President, Jacques Chirac. The valuable I certny slate I lapek single-track I Indeotorowl to tube a ride I przejechai smg sspecttcular I opektakolorny, widowisktwy titfnrsb I godsy kogoilep krilal.midejakii lop. krlewskil to check into I rneldowai 5mg posh I szykowny in advance I z gIry, ha zawcrasu to make sure I apeemniae sly to be alter sib I poszalowaf cregok, goruf za a tender I del katny succulent I SOCZVSIV lamb I iageiyona

english matters food and drink loon of Great Britain 15/2013

Wales
publicity has kept the local farmers and butchers in business for years since, simply outrageously delicious. We decline the waiter's invitalion to have a dessert, feeling that it would be injyg_e to remove the Welsh Lureab memory of the meal from our palette. Well, what do you Iggits on?' I ask Dorota. She smiles and replies, r publicity I rekiarra hatcher I rzeinik It roar I hrdowaf, wychowlwai pour quality I slabojakolf soil gleba upmarket I drozszy to graze I pair siq luscious I sorzysty marsh I bagoo, bloto, nrrvrzary hesitant I wahajycy sig aoersior I siochyd to owe I by[ korrol roil wineym

Sheep and lambs are normally gggggj on hills with noor stualitv sail and grass, but their upmgigt cousins get the henefit of gefigitig on the luscious grass of the mineral-rich, flooding salt marshes. In the dining room, Domta is a bit heallOut about ordering the Iamb, and it's strange to me how most Polish people seem to have an oisiuut to is. I say she owes me one for trying the snails and that anyway, she won't be thsa000inted. She concedes, and as the meal arrives, I can see that she's pleased that she did. We savour the moment and take our time to eat the delicate, bury Iamb served with broad beans tig ttglijcrg and baby new notutors in boner and mint sauce - the lamb isn't, as you might think, at all salty, as the marshland plants gggt the salt; it's

/ -'

there's lovely innitV I think Domta's beginning to be persuaded about the wonders of British cuisine, and she will certainly be sorry to leave Wales,

disappointed I rozezarowarry to sauunr I delektowad siy kosztooai juicy I soczysty brood bean 11db stmphire I 501 irid relny baby new potatoes I miode riemnaki marshland I twbaerroy to extract I wyriygak [zerpaf a outrageously I skardalicznie It decline I uchylif sig ndmawiai sacrilege I iwiytokradzlwo to reckon I trsydzii

Salt Marsh Lamb Recipe

Serves 2 Ingredients One six or eight-bone rack of salt marsh Iamb 2thti olive oil Salt and freshly ground black pepper (7.05 oc) 200g samphire (7.05 oz) 200g broad beans (slorlird weight) Juice of half a lemon A knob of butter Cooking instructions t. Preheat the oven to 200C/400F/Gas 6. 2. 8cnaott the lamb with salt and pepper. 3. Heat an ovenproof frying, Dan until hot, add the olive oil and rack of lamb fat-side down and cook for two to three minutes on each side until seared no all sides. 4. Transfer to the oven and cook for about 15 minutes, and turn it over for the final three minutes. Remove from the oven and pjggg the lamb on a plate to rest at least five minutes before ggeyjn. 5. Meanwhile, bring a pan of water to the boil. Add the samphire and broad beans and cook for one minute. Drain and ggggsh under cold water to stop them cooking and help set the colour. If the broad beans are large, remove

them from their grey g0g3 - the bright green beans look nicer and are easier to eat. well once more and then tip into a bowl. the lemon juice and knob of butter, toss )gether lightly and season to taste, if necessary, with pepper but not salt, as the sainpbirr will still have a natural saltiness to it. Serving Serve with boiled new potatoes and

bli of mint sauce.

hnyllrzrrw.thiosezesr0000k'Urtyrn.Wrtsh. sc/stcry_129542o4.dru,lI,th,y.htr,t

rack of Iambi lopatkajagniyca tbsp (tablespoon) I lyika stolowa freshly gruond I iwielo zmelory shelled I laskany knob I gradka to preheat I aprzedn!n rtzgrzsf tact I piekornik to season I przyprawr( to heat I rozgrzat ovenproof I larondporny frying par I patelnia fat-side down I tloszczem na spdd seared I obsmaznry

to tarn sob 00cr I obracai to place I amresaczai to rest I odstowd na kilkn rnnut to carve I krtif meanwhile I w miydzycrasie to drain I udsyczyd to refresh I ddwiezyd to set she colour I zachrwoi kolor pod I lapira to tip I rvysypai to toes I podrzuri, to: Iekkr saltiness I sltntit jag I dzbarek

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english molten food and drink lone of Great Britain I 5/2013

Lancashire and Cumbria

From Liverpool to the Lakes

From the industrial heartland oltancashire to the picturesque beauty of the take District, the day gets off to a minty start and ends with something lishy.

A Scouse Tour
We shed a small tear as we leave Walesbehind us and enter England's Wtrral, heading towards the Mersey tunneL The route under the River Mersey brings us into the Industrial heartland of Lancashire and the great port of Liverpool. I have to show Domta amend the famous Albert Docks which are now luigely a museum and exhibition ceol. It was once a hub for Europe's niam trade, all manner of goods an arrival point for Irish immigrants and the last nigiti of England for emigrants travelling to the land of hope and dreams in America. It would be igggeftg to rail in at a pub for a meal of Scouse but I don't want to nash my luck with the lamb. It's essentially an Irish Stew made of million carrots and potato and served with gkk!eil red cabbage. A scouser is also the name of an inhabitant of Liverpool and scouse is the distinctive qirockun accent.

Sweet and Sour Lancashire

The diet throughout Lancashire is influenced by its poor working-class background and a typical local dish is inige and onions, although my granny used to just eat it cold with MifiDarNo sseuuse I nazwa Iiverpnolskiego okcentu to shod a small tsar I urnniflnzkg In head Inwards I znlerzaE ku industrial I przemysIow, upranrostowiony largely I glwnie exhibition centre I certrum wystawiennicze hub I rentrum,oilrodek slave trade I handel niewulnikarni goods I uohra. mienie sight I widnk tempting I busztsf to push one's luck I kusif ins stew I gulost mutton I baranina pickled I konserwowy inhabitant I rnieszkun,ec distinctive I srfioiaggcysigrharahterystgrzny quacking I kwakajgcy, kwauzgsy soar I liwainy background I frndtwiska tripe I flarzki vinegar I ttst

english naomi food and drink four of Great Britain 15/2013

 Lancashire and Cumbria

- yuk! Being a bit soueamish, neither am I a fan of black pudding for which the Lancashire town of Bury is famous. I omit to tell Dorota about such primitive trough and instead push on to the former mill town of Wigan for something a bit different. Devotees of 1984 author, George Orwell, may have heard of 'The Road to Wigan Pier' which highlights the plight of poor people in the 1930s. In fact, the pier in Wigan is not at sea but on a canal. All that factory work most have given the workers a very dry throat and there's no better way of curing it, than with a boiled sweet and in oarticular, one of Uncle Joe's Mint Baits, made in Wigan i squeamish I przeczulony,wrazl!aR neither I rbwnlaz nie,tei tie to emit to do oth I adecydowaf siq ozegot roe mid, optowaf za rzymd Innym, nid rob ienie czegottrough I pot. zarelko, carrie instead I Zamiast former I bob devotee I wielbiciel, entuajasta pier I mob in highlight I podkreibai, awidaczraai plight I ny000cja, polatenie

since 1898. They are a local legend, and the peppermint and sugar cane confection comes in a distinctive tin with the ristirn 'pure and good.' OK, so they're not exactly food but they'll give us something to suck on during our tong drive up the M6 to the more scenic Lake District - I always think you need mints for a tong car journey!

Westmorland Sweetroyffid. Mountaineers Friend

The urban sprawl is left behind at Preston and the traffic progressively thins out as green hills appear in the distance. Eventually, we pttiLff the throat I garBo bulled I gotowany In particular I saczegOlnie a sugarcane I tracina cukmowa claim I stwierdzeriie, hash to suck I ssat sweet-toothed I lnkomczcnh,lasy nosindyoze mountaineer I alpinsta, taternik urban sprawl I boziadno zabudowa miejoka In thin out I praemzedrai si0 eventually I w kocu,ostatecanie

motorway unto the A590 and aim for Kendal, a rather congested market town and one-time administrative centre of the now defunct Westmorland. It's a strange mixture of market town, gateway to the Lakes, arty-fart shops and confectioners, and it's the last of these that I've come in search f. There is no ohunlugu of shops selling the enonymous Kendal Mint Cake that has been made in the town for over 150 years by families such as Quiggin, Romney and Wilson. Of course, the exact rouge in a secret but it's made of sugar, glucose and peppermint. It's not really a cake but more of a bar, and now you can get it to pall off I zledzai (spa auttstnady) 3 t aim for I zmieraai ku congested I zatloczony defunct I wymarly arty-f arty I Izbytl atyszukany, pozerski in search of a poszukiwaniu shortage I brak eponymous I tytirlrwv recipe I przep,s trade secret I tolemnica irandlowa bar I batonik

20

english matters food and drink tsar of Great Britain 1 5/21113

Lancashire and Cumbria

ii

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The books also have beautiful illustrations and reflect an innocence of a time gone by in a tranquil, tggi idyll. We go to the visitor's shop and buy a mug and two stories; Dorota says she's going to start collecting them - hmm, does that mean she's getting broody?

chocolate coated, which is my favourite. It's been in the rucksack of many a mountaineer, including Everest climber, Edmund Hillary, as it is ptjggd for its high energy xnitimtt. Just the thing to keep you going when you're stuck in a blizzard at base camp five!

A Visit to Hilltop
While we're in the neiohbourhttn, I have to take Dorota to Hill Top Farm, near Sawrey. It's a gitujut stone cottage with a cottage garden, but then such residences are two a penny in this chocolate box county, so what makes this one so special? 'You don't know?' I ask Dorota, incredulously. 'Does the name Peter Rabbit mean anything to you? No? a chocolate mated I w polewie czekoladowej rucksack F plecak including I wlqcznie a priced I nogrodzeny content I zawarlokE In slack in I utknyf blizeord I zoruief, nawaizicu
4

A raste of Cumbria
Then sorely Squirrel Nutkio, iemima Paddle-dock or Mrs Fezziwig? Tragic; Icon see that I'll have to enlighten you. This is the home of the author, Beatrix Potter, and it was here, inspired by the local population of mice, rabbits and other small creatures, that she wrote some of the best-loved children's stories ever.' neighbourhood I sysindztno quaint I osobliwy, oryginalny to be two (ten) a penny I byE latwo dostgpnyrr, byE Ca pgczki incredulously F z niedowierzoniem eta enlighten I aiwiecd 6 rural Iwiejski
5

I've been rather itgtigjuy today and it's not healthy to live on sweets alone, so we head north to the former county of Cumberland for some pggggg food. The wonderful thing about Britain is that there are plenty of pubs offering excellent home-made bar meals using fresh, local produce. lJafortnnytyy as I'm driving, I'll have to content myself with mug I kobek broody I to rnarzycf 0 rodzinie, dzienaeh naughty I iiegrzeczny, to ronpieszczolqry sq. dogadzajycy sable ny jadzyc 5+adklel proper I wiatciwy, ta:porzydry unfortunately I nestety to content oneself with sth I zadowolc5lqczyms
6

english matters food and drink tour of (treat Britain 15/2013

21

Lancashire and Cumbria

mineral water but I'm sure the grnb will more than make up for it. We stop off at a typical, Lakeland, stone built pub and tgygigt into the dacklyjit room with a ceiling so low you could bang your head on it. It's barely light enough to read the menu, but luckily, there are two classic dishes that standout and we order one each. Durota plumps for the Cumberland Pie, which is really a variation of Shepherd's Pie with breadcntmbs on the top. It has a base of minced meat with mash i grub I pot. zarcu to warder I wkrtczyl darkly lit I slabo nfwietlnny to bang I uderzyf barely I zaledwie, ledwt to stand Out I wyroitiat sly to plump for I wybreral pie I clattt Shepherd Pie I zapiekaeka, skladajyca sig z wartsa miysa mielanegn I warzyw, polanych kremowy warstwy puree bteadctumbs I bulkatarto

on the topit's very filling! I've gone for

spicy Cumberland Sausage with creamy

mashed potato and onion gggyy; it's a kind of Cumbrian hangers and mash. Cumberland Sausage is a think, pgppgg pork sausage that comes in a single long spiral - it's one of my favounites and is best smeared in Coleman's English Mustard, which is hotter than French or American Mustard, It makes your eyes water and your ears iltiple, but I love it! The only problem with such robust meals is that they can have minced I mrelony mash I przacier, papka a spicy I tstry, pikarrtey mashed potatoes I tluczone ziemniaki, puree ziemtiaczare gravy I sos. tkrasa bangers and mash I kielbasa z ziemniokiami peppery I pieprzriy to smear I sn,artwaf to water! tu:fzawif to tingle I dzwoniilw uszaohl robust I stlliny

a detrimental effect on your waistline and your motivation to do anything. Before the malaise sets in, we leave the pub and instead of getting back in the car, we follow a public fcQWdtji which leads up the side of a nearby hill. The Lake District is not only a beautiful area of lakes and wildlife but fantastic terrain for a gentle walk or a hardcore hike. Some jyaggpjd travellers, in winter, have to be airlifted off the side of the fells by helicopters and mountain rescue teams. Let's hope they have odetrimertsl I szkodlieq waistline tuba, kibif malaise I nieninc, apatia to set in I zadornawiaf siy. zapannwnf instead of I zarrriast footpath I icieka to lead up I prnwadzif in hardcore I ostry hike I wycieczka,wydriwka intrepid I trnialy, zurhwaly to airlift sb I przetrarsptrttaab kogok samnintem lub helikopterem

22

english notices loud and drink tour of lineal Britain 1 5/2013

Lancashire and Cumbria

Rainbow Terrine - Starter or Teatime Dish
8 ay (230g) Sotfihoid bdlrnQo, chopped 8 oz (230g) smoked trotil, chopped

to oz (280g) cream cheese

(foil fat Philadelphia) 6 on (170g) hatter Tabasco sauce Worcestershire sauce Lemon juice 1 tbsp chopped potshot t f5p mixed herbs tsp dill Black pepper

k
-

their Kendal Mint Cake with them' Our sicQian is much more sedate, as we allow ourselves a good hour or so to gently work off lunch. Two hours later, we return to the car and head for our night stopover in Keswick.

A Lipht Fish Tea and Twitching Whiskers V

There's no doubt that fresh air gives you an appetite, but all the same, one heavy meat per day is enough, so we scoot the hotel mean for something that will fill a gap but not leave us feeling like lead weights. Ah, the perfect choice; I can just imagine Beatrix Potter, taking this dish into her garden, setting it down on a isos pe her jay, sitting, looking down into the garden and contemplating her next story. But what's that in the hedge, a movement, a nose, a split lip and some twitching whiskers; could it be Peter Rabbit come for tea? It could be, after all, the Rainbow Terrine does look delicious! Would you like to try some? Please don't be shy - it's very tasty. U
4

Method: Use a 2 cob loaf tin hoed with cling film if you don't have a terrine mould. This is a three-layered fish terrine. Layer 1Soften 2 oz (57g) of butter and place in a food processor. Cream until smooth and add the chopped smoked salmon pieces and 1 oz of the cream cheese. Process again until the smoked salmon is a finn mousse. Add a splash of Tabasco, Worcestershire sauce, lemon juice and freshly ground black pepper. Process further to bring the mousse together. Check the seasoning and abet to taste if required. Line the base of your tin with this layer and refrigerate. Layer 2 Proceed as for layer 1 but use 8 oz (230g) of the cream cheese to replace the salmon. Add to this mousse the mixed herbs, chopped parsley and dill. When the mousse informed, remove the tin from the fridge and press this down to form layer 2 and replace in the refrigerator. Layer 3 - Proceed as for layer 1, replacing the salmon with the smoked trout. When this mousse is complete add to layer 2, cover with cling film and place in the refrigerator for thour to set. When set, turn out your terrine and serve in slices accompanied with Gmvadlax dressing or horseradish cream. Special Notes: Trout and salmon fishing is a popular posgjsise in Cumbria and this simple yet eye-catching dish, served with French bread or crisp bread, is a perfect choice for a tasty starter or Sunday tea.

sojourn I pnbyt sedate I spokojny in snook off I odpracawaf imposer I przistarrek twitching I drgejfcy whiskers I woo Izwierztcel perday I radzieh to scour I tu:przei ethiC lead I now to set oth down I arriejscowif tray I taca on one's lap I na czpichh kolanacir hedge I 3roplot split I ruzszctepiorty terrine I francaska potrawn pudobsa Sn pasztetu

starter I przystawka no Inured I anc;n smoked I wdzony salmon I lnsoi chopped I posiekany trout I pstryg fall fat I pamodusowy tbsp = tablespoon I lyzka stolawa parsley I p etraszka tsp (teaspoon) I fyeczka do herbaty dill I koper cob loaf I okr4gly bochrnek rhieba cling film I foliatypa 'stretch'

mould I forma in pieczenia three-layered I trzywiustwowy smooth I gladkr, ben gradek firm I tafy. sztywny seasoning I przyprawa to alter I zm,en,af, modyfikowat if required I ;ehli trzeba to refrigerate I zarnirazaf slice I plaster dressing I sos horseradish I chrzan pastime I rsznywka eye-catching I przyciygalycy owag crisp bread I chrapkie piecznno

english mailers food and drink ton, of Great Britain 1 5/2013

Scotland

Och Aye! We're oifto Bonnie Scotland, following in the footsteps ofyoung lovers for a sizzling steak, a wee dram and a visit to Scotland's very own celebrity Chef from Hell.

Highland Heaven and Hell

A Lover's Escape
It's just a short hon and a inmn from Cumbria into Scotland, but I'm pulling off the motorway the minute we flXQllI the border and following the route of many before me. Gretna Green has a magical association that leads thousands of British to flock here from far and wide, just to get married. 'Why?' asks Dotard, and being an incorrigible romantic, she's sure to like the answer. In the past, taltilsi in England, it was necessary to obtain naretntal consent for marriage below the age of 21 in Scotland, there was no such limitation. ohighland I girski r a short flop and ajamp I put. rzut beretem to pot oft I rjezdzaf np r ostostrody) to cross I przekraczai burden I granira to lead I prowadzti wieti to flock I zlatywaf sly, zjnidiaf, gronraizil sq from far and wide I z wszystkich stun incorrigible I nieuleczalny whilst I podrzos fdy in obtain I otrzyrnac parental consent I rodz c elska zgoda oto steal away I wyrnykof sly in the dead ofnight I wirodku racy to elope I braf potajennnie Mu It, pabreraf sq Consequently, young lovers would steal away in the dead of night to elan to Gonna Green. Furthermore, the very unthle Scottish legal system allowed for boys as young as 14 and girls as young as 12 to wed in 'irregular marriages,' where just about anybody could preside over a wedding ceremony provided that there were two witnesses. The local blacksmith seized the onoortunitv to open a wedding business and other blacksmiths in the area soon followed suit. These became known as the 'Anvil Priests.' That's why Gretna is considered the most romantic wedding destination ever and the local hotels still do a tilaliltil trade. wtalemn cy furthermore I ponadto flexible I elastyrzny to allow I pozwalaf towed I pobrac sit to preside over sth I przewnarruczyf czemui blacksmith I kowal to seize the opportunity I skorzystaf z akazji tuftllnw slit I pijir Cv ozyjef yjaa, pijif ra rayed przykladem rearing I Isa lukratywny trade I handel 3 t pop into sth I wskoczyidoozegoi to stock up on sIb I kupifwiykszqiloyf czegn&zrobif zapasy, czegof Speaking of trade, we really should do some Scottish food shopping, so we pog.into Gretna Gateway Shopping Centre and stuck up on dry, sally oatcakes which are not cakes at all but a biscuit, Scott flortalg_e Oats to keen out the cold in the Warsaw winter and Walker's shortbread, which isn't bread but another biscuit, rather sweet, soft and ilninllli3. It's not at all car friendly toed and I manage to cover myself j&cnjiobs on my way north along the scenic M74 to Glasgow.

A Meal fit for Vampires

We llygasa the capital and push onto Fort William. We've bunked into salty I Slony oatcake I castRo ows one at all I us opiln porridge I owsianka to keep oat I tuuaqgOni& odgonuf,trzymaf daleka shortbread I krocbe costa ciastkol, brszbnpt crumbly I kruclry to cuaer oneself in sth I pokryf sy rayOn crumb I okruch fit I odpowedni In bypass I omicqi a dolol, objothaf Idokolul to push onto I pomknyf do to honk Into I zorneldowaf sly w

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english nroltrrs trod and drink tour 01 Great Britain 15/2013

Scotland U U

a modest B&B so that we can afford to splash out on a ngtitu meal for two. A short walk through the town centre is rewarded by the discovery of a steak house. I'm not the bloodthirsty vampire that Dorota is, but even so, I'm rgjtuhiug the nrosnect of a big ittiry steak from the legendary Aberdeen Angus. There are so many different cuts to chose from; iitttw fillet, sirloin, gjgyg; which to choose? Dorota elects a yjintgy 8 ounce tender sirloin, while I go for the sheer volume of the 12 ounce T-bone. I once a 888 (bod&breakfast) I asiruga uonlegr polyruonego Ce bniodoniem to afford sth I nbc noble flu coi pozwol:C (finasowo) to splash out on I szarpnyf sly no roth zaszalei (finansowo) slap-up I pot, obf:ty, soty bloodthirsty I sprugrtiony krwi to relish the prospect of sth I cieszyi sly no (sany) nybl r rzyrnb, ialpawae )siy) entuzjozmem lo perspektywr czrgoi) juicy I stczysty toll hrkotlrl ramp I comber, krzyi woloory sirloin I polydwcourirrwa

had steak with chocolate drizzled over the top in an Argentinean restaurant. You'd think it would taste strange, but it was a perfect combination. There's no chocolate here but a mustard, blue cheese, pepper or even whisky sauce. We think that any of them would 5poil the flavour so we Rdrh. More choices; the waiter asks how we would like our steak done. Of course, my vampire partner says '[axe,' which I know is meant to be more sophisticated, but I'm an unashamed rib-eye I stek z nojlepsrej czysci artryhota z tiustyn oczkiem w irodku (styd nazwa) to elect I wybieraf dainty I gustowny, efeklowny ounce I trcja tender) delikalny sheer I tu:przepastny, ogromny T-bone I (stak) z kostky sdriealed I pokropiony, posypary to spoil I p501 to pass I to: rerygruwai rare I surowy sophisticated I wyrafrowary unashamed I beuwstydry ephiliotine I blister, prymilyw

philistine and say, 'well done.' I just can't face blood on my plate. The waiter says, 'certainly, sir,' but there's something of a disanurovina supercilious smirk on his face. As the meal arrives, there's nothing pretentious about the accompaniment, as it comes with mushrooms and garden neas. It's hardly cordon bleu but the smell alone makes our mouths water. Dorota takes her razor-sharp steak knife, cuts off a small chunk and sinks her teeth into the tender steak. She well dune I dobrut wysmazory to tare sth I ta:anieib rsytrzyrraf (sp. widrkl disapprming I lekceauaiycy supercilious I baby smirk I uirnieszek chips I frytki garden peas F gmszek ogrodowy cordon bleo I o pobnawie naiwyzsaejjakoici/ Standordu kuchn: wiatnwej to water F limit sly razor-sharp I rstry jak lylefra to catniP F odonai chunk F Ia kuwalek to sink one's teeth into stir I zatapial zyby o czymi

english mailers teed and drink tour of (brat Britain 1 5/2013

Scotland
has to uttmot that it's the most sggctileoi, flavoursome that she's ever tasted; just hcaycnl. At twenty pounds per head, it needs to be!

Gordon Ramsey's Cock-a-leekie Soup Recipe

Ingredients: 265 oz (75g) organic chicken breast 1 litre home-made chicken stock or liquid chicken stock 8 leeks 12 stoned gttincs soaked in prune juice Handful of fresh parsley Directions: I. Cook the chicken breast by either over roasting in better or boiling gggging.nit personal preferences. Once cooked allow to cool slightly. 2. While the chicken is cooking, beat the liquid chicken stock in a saacoan. 3. Wash the leeks and the parsley. e the leeks and c" the parsley before adding to the chicken 4. Thinly stock in the saucepan with a bay leaf. horn down the heat and simmer the leeks for 40 minutes on a law heat, The 5. liquid will reduce over this time. 6. Cut the cooked organic chicken breast into kiln-size pieces and add to the Add the prunes and heat the soup for three to five minutes. 0. Season the Cock-a-Leekie soup with cracked black pepper and salt as desired.
5EEp//,u,IrtOt.com/ot,cle/r-cnckalrrk,r.55uP ,,ah

A Scottish Breakfast
The next naming at breakfast time, I'm left with the same dilemma as the one in Wales. I've really been looking forward to a Full English, but my host ciictiiices if I'd care to take the Scottish Breakfast 'I'd be delighted,' I reply, lvinn through my teeth. In fact, in many ways, it's like an English breakfast of eggs and bacon but we've also got some hash browns, fried black pudding and the inevitable anoearunce of haggis. 'Oh, this looks interesting; what is AT enquires Dorota. 'It's called haggis; typically Scottish, it's a hind of meat mixed with oats.' I seem to be making a habit of lying this morning but I don't want to risk her kalliltig when she discovers what it is. She moves a piece around her mouth extracting the flavours. 'It's quite strong, ygngjy and spicy butt think I rather like it.' 'Here, have mine.' I offer enthusiastically, 'It's a bit rich for my palene.' While Dorota Ws out to powder her nose, I'll tell you what's really in haggis; it's what you might call an acquired taste. It's most traditionally eaten on Burns' Night, which celebrates the otuadmil I przyanof succulent I soczysty flavoursome I aromatyczny heavenly I niebrask, In look foment to 5th I nczek:waf na cot, seyczekiwaf czegoi In enquire I dopylywaf, wypytywoc, donekaf to lie through one's teeth I kianraf w iyoue tczy hash browns I rodzol plackiw ziemniaczanych inevitable I n etniknitrry appearance I tU: polawierrie shy haggis I po;rawaz pudrobOwowcrych i baranich to balk I urnkaf uchylif sq woody I drzewiasty to nip out I wyskocayd Igdziei, np nuchwilql to powder I pnzypudrowuk pudrousaf acquired I nabyty Burns' Night I iwiytO obchodzune poet Sakntdw 25 stycunia, dedykoware ytbertowi nurrsow, wybitnemu poecie naroduwemu I prekursorow romurtynmu

chickr,

p,,,,n.e.tenks-u76273 stuck I b/inn leek I por stoned I a pestkaro prune I iliwkt soaked I nasycznry bay leaf I ItifIasrnsy handful I gnrsrka parsley I peirusaka to roast I pec.opsekai depending On i w zaleznotcr nd In allow I pozualaf In mu! :hlodz t, sthlodzrf sq in heat I podgrzai saucepan I rondel thinly I :errka to slice I cqisuplastry to chop I szntknwaf to turn dnwn I rmieJszyi In simmer I gntowad flu wolnym ogniu, 1usd on a low heat I flu matyrr ogniu kile-siatid) I welkotni jednego kqsxugryoeraa cracked I am riony

Gordon Ramsey

english mailers load and drink bar at Urea! Britain 15/2013

Scotland
Scottish poet, Rabble Burns. Now to the brutal truth; haggis is made from sheep's gff,fl!. Specifically, that's iting, heart and liver. This is boiled and minced then mixed with beef suet and oatmeal. fingil the mixture is sewn .trg in the Hill of the sheep's stomach and boiled for three hours. Does it sound delicious? That's what I thought! is so much tastier than the fanned d tigty and there is no shnniag_e of shops selling MrnSfrll of the local catch. We buy a small portion of delicate, iloshy, sntQisgd salmon and eat it just units own, sat in a small park. It's not at all many but lightly ienittii and scented without the smokfni being overnowerinu. I'm very frfopfcd to go back for seconds but I'm saving some pennies for a visit to the Edradour Whisky Distillery. Probably, if it were America, a company would want to claim that it's the biggest in the world but in the distorted British mind, small is beautiful and the Edradour Distillery is said to be the smallest whisky distillery in the world, producing a moto twelve casks per week. We signjip for the tour, which sets us back 750 each but does ittcioto a couple of drams of the delicious single malt' Most commercial whiskies are blended from many other whiskies but a single malt comes from a single distillery and each one has its own distinctive flavour. As we discover on the tour, the whisky is itiafimed for up to 12 years, giving it an incredible, rich, mellow taste. Naturally, I have to buy a bottle to take home In share on special occasions; although at these prices, it will he just a sine dram.

Salmon (Qd(4ers and Distilleries

There are so many beautiful places to visit in Scotland, such as the west coast or the highlands and islands, but strapped for time, and between you and me, stropped for cash, so we curtail our journey north and go eastward to the Victorian town of Pillnchry, in the heart of Scotland. It's an attractive Scottish market town with large grey stone buildings, popular with walkers and dgggtll. The most famoos fish in Scotland is the salmon, with it's btzdrre upstream climbing habit and there's a stretch of river at the Power Station Dam, called the salmon ladder, where you can actually watch them make their ascent from an underwater viewing gallery; amazing! Naturally, wild salmon a offal I podroby lung I plrrco liver I wqtroba to boil I gotowai to mince! srekaf beef suet I lilj wolowi oatmeal I owsianka finally I w koicu to sew up I zaszywni lining! twwrwntrznawarstwaio!ydka owczego salmon ladder I praeptawkaliluzalssosiuwa( w tamie ui saturalna distillery! dastylarna tube strapped for sth I rsetfbytzczymi krucho, set czegoi orals to curtail I skracai eastward, I no wschd walker I piechur angler I rwwydkarz bizzara I dziwny, dziwaczriy upstream climbing habit I zwyrzaj sknk,waniu w grq stromierla stretch I loobstar dam I tamo

The ChefFrom Hell

As we negirg....to our Victorian lodge with big bay windows and sash we're pretty bushed and ready for a quiet night in. Being a icily Ill

Haggle

ascent! wziot naariety I twodmiana shortage I niedobir, bunk sample I pribka Inca! notch I poldw iokainy fleshy I rrriysisty smoked I wqdzooy waxy I woskosry textured I orazisteJ teksturze. a knnkretny laktury scented I perfumowary smoking I twuwqdzente overpowering I przytlarzaiyny to tempt I kusrt distorted I powykrycany, an ok sztulcnny mere I awykfr, tuzaledwie cask I berzka, baryla to sign up I zapisis 5i0

It sot sb bunk I kosatowat kogol (del),

rideray p0 kieszeni to include I wkqrrai, tawieraf edram I kiehszerzek.odrobinku (alkohoiu( malt I slyd In blend I oieszat distinctive I aryraniajqcy suq, rharokterystyrzny ffaoeur I ammnat to mature I dujrzewot oselluso I trrdojrzoly wee I rnaieiki In retire I udat sly (op. on spoczynek(, pails (do swego pokoju) lodge I kwaterrjnek.poknje sash curd I sznur (stanowiycy zawiesrenie w okrne otvnreranym pi000wt( bashed I pot. wypornpnwaoysknnaoy , telly I pot telessizia

nnglioh mallen food and drink tour of Great Britain 5/2013

27

Scotland

Cock--Ieekie soup

p .

addict Ijust have to pick p the cuasale and flick through the channels. News, Shopping, Operations, no thank you, ah, Food Channel and guess who's on, Scotland's very own chef from hell, Gordon Ramsey. The man's a legend, most notable for his wicked temper and foul mouth. He even had a TV series called the F-word; F for food, of course; His boyhood dream was to be a footballer and he even trialled for Glasgow Rangers, but injuries meant r addict I uzalezniony to pick up I cirayrir remote I point td te ewizora to flick through I przeskak oaf przta, brzeki-6Siy ra ehybitraf 1 przez kaoa IldI wicked I roedobry foul mouth I pat. rrienyparzorra ggbo to trial for I brat udz al w eliminaciach/ konkursie lop. n mielsce w drusyniel injury I uszkodzeroe, kontuz;a a pitch I btiskt dogsbody I pat. chinpioc no posylki; osnba wykor2ystyw000 w pracy

that he was destined for the kitchen rather than the football pitcli. After studying and working as a commis chef, (that's the doesbody who has to do all the prepping and tanning around) he landed his first big time job working for the famously demonic Marco Pierre White at a restaurant called Harvey's. It seems, to have any credibility as a celebrity chef, you have to fly off the handle and throw enormous wobblers, credibility I wiuryfodrrosf to fly off the handle I pot aeyif a siebre to thrum a wobbler I pot. oupadaf w hixtery 3 stint I fu. prtepracowany okres, coos kritki) eventually I w kocu, rstatecznie swanky I pot. elegaocki to go from strength to strength I odrro5if coraz wiyksze sukcesy afield I odlegly sky high I nygirowany remotely I anilchoc all trochg, Iaoifthociazl udrobing

After a stint as a Head Chef, he eventually opened his first restaurant in the juynky Chelsea area of London in 1991, and since then he's gunu from streunob to strenath with a string of restaurants as tar afield as Hollywood, Dubai and Tokyo. However, it's his on-screen antics that have captured the imagination of the viewing public and in particular, the series, Hell's Kitchen. In this, people with on previous eheffing or restaurant experience are thrown to at the deep end to prepare meals at one of his exclusive and extremely expensive restaurants. The expectations are sky jbigh, and any food that is remotely substandard is unceremoniously tossed into the bin to be accompanied by a string of expletives. He's not an easy man to please and his ijcgy Scottish temper has reduced many people, even celebrities, to tears. Our programme cgjuiigg_s him in a more sedate mood and what more fitting way could there be to finish the Scottish (fig of our tour, than with Gordon's recipe for another Scottish classic, cock-a-leekie Soup. fipjy your meal, and dock if you see Gordon coming! to toss into the bin I wyrzuraf do krsza expletive I okrzyk zniariorpliouias a to please I zadowalat fiery I zvyburhruy to reduce sbtn tears I doprowadzai kogot drier to capture I chuycoh irboryrit sedate I 5poko1ny.+agodoy leg I tteodc rock cock-a-leekie soup I zupa z poriw to enjoy I cieszyt s fi labS smaczeego to duck I zrobrt 011k 0 owac sig

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english matters turd and drink tour of Great Britain 15/2013

The Real Deal

Our tour takes us back across the border for the best of British in the form ofRealAle, the tastiest fish and chips in the land and a Sunday Roast with all the trimmings - gum gum, here I come! Real Afr in Gateshead
We're back in England itggthn south down the Al in the magical kingdom of Northumbria. It's very tempting to visit the likes of Berwick and Lindisfarne, but then we'd be late for a date and that wouldn't he polite. We've been invited to meet uo in Newcastle with our good friends, Darren and Fiona, AKA Puny. Not only are they harnora fgodieu; Darren even makes and markets his own rocket fuel chilli sauce, but they are also connoisseurs of real ale. That means there will be some beer sampling flood ug. Oh welt, it's a dirty job, but someone's got in do it. Newcastle can be a bit griggy so we're staying. just across the River
4

Tyne in Gateshead. This gives us the chance to visit The Baltic Art Gallery, which is a converted flour mill, and The figgg Centre, which is a fantastic, modern auditorium, built in a foturislic design like a metallic armadillo. From here, it's just a short walk to a ale I gatunek piwa to heed I zrzoerzai the likes of I mlelscatak,etalk date I ranika, tu: umfainne spotkanie in meet ap I spotkaf sy hardrere I ruzapalony fmdie I poc srrrakosz fuel I pahwo connoisseur I zeawca, konasar sampling I kosztowanie, prbowanie in line np I zaplannwai pricey I kosztnwny
5

Gateshead Metro station, where we meet our hosts who greet us enthusiasticalty and walk us to a traditional English public house. These days, with theme Dubs, karaoke and happy limsis, it's not so easy to find a real old-fashioned boozer but this is the 11.
it stay I zatrayrnab sry srnnuerted I przernbiony mill I natrak sage I mtdrzec tymEanek armadillo I pnnrerrsk sin walk sit to I zaprnwodzii kogob do theme pub I pub ternatycznv happy hours I szczyhliwe godzisy, tzas, gdy w lokala 0 charakterze gastrunomiuznym nopoie serwnwane 54 pa chnizonei cenie lab zudarmo boozer I pot knalpa, bar 6

eeglish matters food and drink lear at Great Britain 15/2013

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The North East and North Yorkshire

genuine article. It's called The Central and it's a very narrow building that has earned itself the nickname of the coffin. Welt, at least you'd die happy. Inside, there is a series of small rooms, each with its own bar; it's just like being in somebody's front room. What's more, it specialises in selling real ale. Dorota's never tried real ale before and asks what makes it 'real.' Darren explains. 'For a start, there's no gas or additives pumped in and the ale goes through a second stage of fermentation keeping live yeast in the cask until it's served. I'm such a fan of the real thing that I've got a cAMB,A Membership card that should give me a 10 percent Isooting, although landlords often conveniently forget about that?' Between you, me and the gatepost, I'll drink any beer, real or otherwise. The selection proposed by our hosts is Harviestoun Bitter and Twisted; quite nice, rather hoi with a touch of citrus but a bit on the sweet side. My only concern is that I'll need to drink twenty pints to get tipsy as the alcohol content is a rather lightweight

3,8 percent compared to the typically Polish 6 percent. All the same, we have a great evening and are sufficiently inebriated for some emotional farewells.

Fish n' Chips in Whitby

At least the next morning we don't have hangovers and head to the North Yorkshire coastal town of Whitby. This is a fantastic little town with a great history. It has associations with Captain Cook and Bram Stoker's
I genuine I prawdziwy, orygnolny

Dracula. A notable feature is the ancient Whitby Abbey, set high up on a hill overlooking the harbour area. I once climbed the steps to the top and camped rough on the cliff top, only to be pyplyged all night by sunawkinu seagulls. There are plenty of stalls in the harbour area selling crab and other shellfish, but I have come here for the most iconic British meal of all; fish n' chips. In every town high street and every village, you can find a fish n' chip shop; concern i troska, zmartwrenie pint I par prwo to get tipsy I pot. upit 56 a sufficiently I vystarczal600 inebriated i netrzeOwy farewell i p000guan,e fish'n'chips rbazfrytkamr hangover i kac o notable I yodny ndnolnwan,a featurel cecha pestered i napastoworsy to squawk i piszczei seagull I mewo stall I stragan

to earn oneself the nickname I dorobif sly przezwiska coffin I trumno additive I dodatek yeast I droldie cask I beraka, beka CnMRulthe Campaign for Real Ale) stnworzyszenle zwoiennikfwtradycyjnego, brytyjskuego piwa gO me) fermentorjr (ale) oroz pubfwjako miejsra jego spnianra discount i znizka conveniently I doodnie happy i chmoalowy

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engli oh mailers food and drink tour at Great Britain 15/2013

The North East and North Yorkshire

some selling fat, otiggy chips, some offering cony and chips and in Scotland, even gleetisisieti Mars hors. But I'm not after any of these exotic variations but simply what are considered to be the best fish n chips in the whole of the land. Walking into the town, there are piget 121 of cblggigg to choose from, all doing a ntggy I rozmoczony deep-fried I smaf one w gtgbrkm tiusrozo plenty I rrnfstwn ohippy I pnc frytkarn a roaring I tuIukralynny trade I hondel unassuming I skrnmny, bezpretensiono ny shinto perkal fake I lolszywy salt pot I solnictka pepper per I preprznczka vinegar I ocet sod I iledi haddock I planriak,luptcz o mushy I gqbczasty peas I grosnek battered I w raadkirr ciefrie to bank I wygrzewai sq, pfawtlwslnncu hot cabinet I podgrzewacz do ryczniklwl, ta

a maring trade. We select an itotisniuniitg one, with chintz curtains and white, paper table cloths, false silver nail and pepper pots, yfedgor and plastic squeezy bottles of red and brown sauce. Cod or haddock? That's the question. We choose one of each so that we can share. Fish 'n' chops, twice, with a big polystyrene podgrzewacz izqstawoaq lop, do potrawl fat fryer I frytkowrca feast I uczta batter I rzadkie cr0510 to encase I nbnamowai, otaizaf plump I palchoy.ttainutki to steam I parowaf moist I raw Imny Nike I loska no separate I oddzeIaf sy on the oatslde I flu zewnytro within I wfmndka hardly I pcaoee haute cuisine I kuthnia nn1wyzszycb blOw to weaken I slabrryc to seal sib I przypieczqtowai toO roast I pleczek delightful I zachcajycy drive I przoazdzka

carton of tnfty pins - luxury. The bdhr leonti fish bask in the hot cabinet in front of the serving area and the freshly made chips come from the deep faLftyettt behind. It's served up in seconds and we sit down to enjoy our feast while it's still hot. The ballet is crisp and golden and encases apbapp, white, generous portion of fish. As we cut into the batter, the fish steams and moist iJten of fish gently separate as if preparing themselves tube eaten. The chips are neither fat nor thin but crispy on the outside and soft. As for mushy peas, mashed up processed peas von hardly haute cuisine, but it just wouldn't he the same without them. Dorota has to admit that the great British classic, when cooked with freshly landed fish and cooked to perfection, is the nearest thing to heaven on earth. I think she's weakenion and my battle to persuade her that British food is brilliant is almost won, the neon meal should seal it.

Classic ftiiiit in Yorkshire

The next day we take a tiebatftil drive into the heart of the Yorkshire

english nsutlnnv food and drink tour of Great Britain 15/2013

31

The North East and North Yorkshire

Dales. It would be tempting to take a_cie on the Grosmont to Pickering steam train, but I have to remember it's a food tour and not a railway tour. The Yorkshire Dales provide some of the most beautiful landscapes in the country with high rolling hills and deep valleys that become scow bound in winter. Driving over the spectacular Butlertubs Pass, I always have the excitement of a small boy when I see two-metrehigh snow(g'aTThb01de of the road, designed to aid navigation in severe weather. The area is primarily one of sheep farming and produces the white chalky cheese of Wensleydale and the yellower Swaledale, from nearby Richmond, but this time, I'm not here for the cheese but another quintessentiallv British dish, nainefy Roast Beef and Yorkshire Podding. I've been trying for years to explain to my Polish friends what Yorkshire Podding is but without much success. 'So it's a kind of cake?' they gttice. 'No, it's definitel not a cake; it's savour ' Generally, you can now buy them frozen and pp them into the oven to crisp op, but there's nothing like real Yorkshire Podding made with eggs and flour. ale take a ride I przajecbai sq steam train I pociog parowy snowbound I zosypany thing rem. ndcrqty od iwiato przer inieg pule I lrrjek to aid I pnmagaf, wsptmagot sesene I entry chalky I kredowy, o kolorze kredy quintessentially I oajbsrdrirj charakterystqczny, bydycy kwintesencjq czetoi namely I a mianowicie to enquire I dopytaf sly, dociekod definitely I adecydowanie a sasaury I stony Inie stodk; op. u miesiel, orumalyczny frozen I mrtitny to pop 5th into I wrzucif cot

Roast Bee fDinner Recipe

4.96 lb (2.25kg) large piece beef 0.90 oz (25g) beef dripping or 2 ipp vegetable oil 2 tbsp plain flour Gravy browning For the Yorkshire pudding: 5.29 oz (150g) plain flour 2 large eggs 300ml milk 3thsp fatftomtlie roastbeef cruse beef dripping orvegetahleoil For the roasted vegetables: 2.98 lb (1,35kg) medium potatoes; cot into gypp pieces 4 carrots, guiagigrg lengthways 4 large parsnips, quartered lengthways Cooking instructions Preheat the oven to 180C/350P/gas mark 4. Calculate the meat cooking lime, allowing about 20-25 minutes per 450g/llb plus 20-30 minutes extra depending on whether you like meat that's cooked pink, medium with a touch of pink in the middle, or syofLon throughout. eanaii the surface of the meat with salt and black pepper and place in a roasting tin. The size of the tin you choose really depends on whether you are going In cook the roast vegetables around the meal, or in a separate tin. Add the dripping or oil.

Cook for the calculated time less 40 minutes, hanifog occasionally. If you think the outside of the meat is getting too brown, cover it lightly with kitchen foil. Meanwhile, make the Yorkshire pudding batter and prepare the vegetables. For the batter, put the flour and a pinch dripping I sos tbsp. (tablespoon) I tyzka stolowa plain I tikly eoen I niwny quartered I podaelony rio cetery rzqOcr, potwrantowany lengthways I p0 dlognicr whether I czy well done I dsbrze wysmuzony throughout I wewnqrrz to season I przyprawii roasting ho I blacha to baste I polak pnlewai meanwhile I w tym caasle

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The North East and North Yorkshire U

We've dronned down into the gilltttr town of Hawes from where we can visit Aysgarth Falls, but first, we need to find a pub serving Sunday Roast with all the trimminus. It isn't difficult as many have A-Boards outside advertising the classic dish. Some even offer two meals for a igggg but cheapest isn't always best and we go for one that looks a bit more uiprnajgg. I order two most dinners and a pint and a half of Tetley's; a beer made by a brewery in Tadcaster, Yorkshire. It's quite fizzy with a creamy, frailty head. We have to wait a while for our meals to arrive which I think is a good thing as it proves it's not just been whacked in the microwave. When the meal finally arrives, it's enormous and served on an oval dish to accommodate all the food. We have juicy, rttngltly cat olicus of beef, still a little pink in the middle and drizzled with rich dark grgyy thick rfttinfty carrots, pgtte itips, lightly boiled opratito that make you tttttttg, perfectly roasted potatoes, a little rough around the edges and top of the bat, a big fat olilk of golden, home-made Yorkshire Pudding. Additional gravy is provided in a grgry.ltyg. t, as well as a small dish of horseradish sauce. The aroma is awesome and the meal looks so perfect that it almost seems a shame to eat it. But life is brutal, and the meal is just going to have to he eaten without mercy. tallow Domta to drop duwn I ratrzymai si picttirek9ae I maltwniczy atrimmingjdekorarja tanner I bankrrtt dziesigtfuntnwy upmarket I drozszy frey I gazowan frothy I prenisty,spieniony whacked I sinnany to accommodate I tu:pomieicif roughly I grubo slice I plaster drizzled I spryskany gravy I sos, tkrasa chunky I rniqsisty parsnip I pasteroak to take the first natnp)e. and, as the lender cut of beef, lightly coated with horseradish sauce touches her lips, I can see that the gaitigil fryty. But I won't gipgi, I'll let her surrender gaigfglly and as afoofnul learn how to cook a real traditional British Sunday Roast with Yorkshire Pudding. If you'd like to try your hand, here's the recipe. sprout I artek to make ob trump I pot, wywafpsai gaay nslob I lutafla grant boot I sosjerka horseradish I chrian awesome I wspanialy without mercy I bet Iil bezlitoinie sample I pribka contest I konkurs to be auar I byt zakrhczonym, sktczyf siy to gloat I napawal siy Iwygrang zoydystweml to surrender I poddaf sit gracefully I z wdzqkrem forfeit I grayvuna, fart, zastaw to tin one's hood I srebbuwaf swuth sit

of salt in a bowl. Add the eggs and then the milk a little at a time, knulin to give a thick, smooth butter. fitly in 150ml cold water. Cover and leave to one side until required. Alternatively, you can whiu all of the ingredients together in a jjqtijilksr if you have one, but you have to remember to make the milk up to 450m1 with cold water. Put the potatoes in a large oggggpati and just cover with cold water. Bring in a fast, rolling boil then dagig, reserving the water. Return them to the pan and shake vigorously to soften the edges and leave Canoe side. Place the carrots and parsnips in a large saucepan and cover with the reserved water (add more water if necessary) and bring just to the boil. Drain, reserving 170ml of the water for the gravy. Furry minutes before the end of the calculated cooking time, remove the meat from the oven and add all the vegetables to the roasting tin. Season generously and trait well. Return to the oven. Ten minutes before the end of the calculated cooking time, remove the meat from the oven and pour of the roasting fat (if available, otherwise use mgfrg4 beef dripping or vegetable oil). Return the meat to the oven and pour 2 lop fat into each bitn gin. Increase the oven temperature to 220C/450F/gas mark 7 and place the tins at the top of the oven for the fat to heat, it needs to be very hoc before you add the batter. Remove the meat from the oven but leave the vegetables to cook. inkap the beef in kitchen foil and leave to rest.

Stir the batter, then remove the tins from the oven and pour in the batter to fill each space and return to the oven. The puddings will take 20 to 30 minutes, to rise and crisp. After 25 minutes, check on the puddings and quickly remove the vegetables from the oven. Test them with a giigoegr to check they are tender and cooked right through, and then transfer to a warmed serving plate or dish. Stir the flour into the meat juices in the roasting tin and cook over a gentle heat until absorbed and browned. Stir in the reserved vegetable water. 5jiggg until lightly thickened. Add gravy browning if you like your gravy to be dark in colour. Season the gravy, into a warmed jag and serve with the meat, yeg and Yorkshire puddings. ornw.icatonorouk/rtoonlr.rnno-bmf-d,na.r/60167

all

to beat I ubyaf bestir I mleszai unfit required I takdlugtjak trzeba to whizz I zmikstwai liquidizer I rvirser saucepan I rundel to drain I osuszaf vigorously I energicznie to soften I zrvrtkczof to toss I ptdrzuca& wymirszai In pour off I oilai

malted I rtrpuszczony tsp (teaspoon) I Iyzerzku do herbaly ban tin I puszka no c:astka to Increase I zwiykszaf to wrap I rawieyi.owirryi skewer) szpkulec to simmer I lusil gotowaf na wolrym tgniu to strain I odcrdzc nag I warrywo, warzywa

english matters lord and drink tour of (treat Britain 1 5/2013

keddmtrer,:dqCY

Food of the Empire

In a tour of the cuisine of former British colonies, we Bad out what the West Indians, Chinese and the Asians have contributed to the British diet.

The Nation's Favourite Food

As we continue our journey through the Dales to the West Riding of Yorkshire, we embark on a conversation about Britishness. Dorota thinks of Wimbledon, The Queen, Agatha Christie and afternoon tea. EQgye, giiituugh such a life may still exist in the Home Counties, for the rngjuri of Britain it's a multiracial and multicultural environment.enpite its island status, Britain has seen no end of hostile and friendly invasions from the Celts, Romans, Vikings, Anglo-Saxons, Normans, Huguenots, Dutch, Jews, Irish, Afro-Caribbean, Indians, Pakistanis and

Chinese, to name but a few. Each has, in time, set daunt mutes, brought elements of their own culture and contributed something that has formed the complex character of Britishness. So, history lesson over; here's a quiz. What's the most popular meal o empire I Impesium ito embark on I rozpocz4f Britishness I br/tvjskoic however I jodnakie although I ibid, cbuuiaa majority I arykszoif multiracial I wielornstoq despite I pnmimt

In eat out in Britain? Dorota answers confidently, 'fish 'n' chips!' 'No.' 'Then roast beef.' 'Not that either; you might be surprised.' 'What then?' pleads Dorota. 'It's tniy!' That's right, from Aberdeen to Falmouth, every high street boasts at least one Indian restaurant hostile uirugi
210 name but atom I viny naawai chof kilka In contribute to sth I roef swij wktud, przyczvrat sy wjak i sposIb oto eat out jeff so rsiefde runty I indyjska pttrawa z miysuz ostry przyprawy korzenrq to boast I szrzyiit si, chelpd. ihwal,f

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Yorkshire and The Midlands U

or lafigasrigy, grandly titled the Punjab Palace or Taj Mahal. What's more, people don't just content themselves with eating out or buying in but pride themsgiyrsnn being able to prepare their very own Tandoori Chicken or tonpu jioiering Vindaloo. With this in mind, I'm heading to the Mill town of Halifax in West Yorkshire.

liotSiulTia Halifax
Why Halifax? It's not everybody's idea of a beautiful town but it is mine, with its billy terrain, Art Deco tails ninlyal architecture and vast Victorian Mills. It's the last of these that attracted Asians from India, Pakistan atakeaway I restauracjafast-food Job oferujyca dOwiz/pttrawt fla w'yflOS grandly I szumnle In content oneself with sth I zadownlif si Czyrri to pride oneself on aSh I byt dunoryrr Z cregot, seceycif siy rzymi tongue blistering I pnwodugcy pchcerze flu jqzyku

and Bangladesh to toil in the factories. Throughout the north in Oldham, Rochdale, Bradford and Huddersfield, you'll find large Asian origin populations and some of the best curry houses in the land. I've entered one that my informer Darren has told me about. The decor is rather hectic and jaded with a down-at-heel red carpet and figj flfigggr. Indian music can be heard in the background as our rather too enthusiastic waiter escorts us to a table. In time-honoured tradition, we start by ordering two bottles of Indian Kingfisher Beer. Dorola's something of a novice when it comes to ordering Indian food and hilly I gdrzysty ernnicpol I rrrejski vast I rozlegfV Ito toil I per. harowaf, tyruf hectic I szaleiczy,gtryczkopa jaded I rrstypopa, her pnlrtu flock wallpaper I ttncztra tapeta in the background I w tie fltaita I ntwlclusu, iOltodzidb

asks me to do the honours. The secret is not to order too much, but it's a secret I've yet to discover. Harm, it all looks very igmytjgg, there's Chicken Jalfrezi cooked in onions, peppers and tomatoes, Lamb Korma cooked in yoghurt and cream and a red-hot Prawn Vindaloo. In the end, I order Onion Bhajis, which are fried onion fritters made into balls and Samosas, which are small parcels of pastry stuffed with meat or vegetables. Something that is not easy to find in Poland is okra, sot always order Ladies' Fingers, or to be more Indian, Bhindi Bnjee when I get the chance. We've had quite a lot of meat lgrglyt so to keep oternplirg I kosrycy lamb I lagnuo,Jagriocina prawn I krewetka fried union fritter I smazona cebula w creicre parcel I paczka pastry I baste stuffed with oth I rradtiewarti caymt okra I przrniar jadaInV lately I tstatflio

eoglish mailers food and drink love of Great Britain

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 Yorkshire and The Midlands

and of ample proportions tittlie their bottoms around busily. Old Jamaican men sit discussing cricket in a dialect that isn't 'itgaoy' to decinher. We might be guests, but we have to work for our lunch, as Michael cousIn our support to help out in the kitchen. It's a real bonus to see the food being prepared and to loin in. On the menu today, we have: Curried goat Vegetable gaInes Fried plantains Dumplings Although curry is from India, it's also popular in Jamaica. A patty is a pastry case that is covered in egg so it goes very yellow; it can have it vegetarian, I also order a Vegetable Biryaoi which comes with egg and rice and Palak Paneer which is Indian cheese with spinach cooked in a masala sauce. Of course, we just couldn't possibly do without poppadoms and pickles some chapatis and a Naan bread. Have I ordered too much? Certainly not, but by the time we've polished off the pQpj and tuodyers, I'm beginning fQ.flhiig Pie. Never mind, determination is what made the British Empire, and t push on to tackle the next gQgga. Doeota's barely full at all; for such a waif, she can certainly B ugh and is impressed with the fleshiness and light spicing of the Okra. It's a popular British ggajtme to order the hottest curry on the menu and sweat all the way through the meal
-

naturally, I'm too cultured for such machismo and want to tempt Dorota with something more sensuous. 'So, what do you think?' lash Dorota. 'Very tasty and delicately flavoured,' she replies but adds, 'but can you really call it British food?' 'Absolutely!' I reply.

The Sheffield Caribbean

Believing I've now won over Dorota, I'm on a new mission ytcglgtjd the perception of British food and continuing with the empire ibonLe, I've a rendez-, vous with a friend called Michael who lives in Sheffield in South Yorkshire. This is another industrial town but built on steel and Sheffield Steel is a byword for the best cutlery and knives you can buy. Michael lives in the Pitsmoor area which has a high population of people from the West Indies, another former British colony. There he nitin an AfroCaribbean lunch club, but it's not racist and you don't have to be black ~to the food or the music! lunch club is run in Baptist Church Hall and ladies in colourful dresses

i spinach I szp:onk poppadom I poppadom, indgjski pndplomvk podawany do curry pickle I rvaryoato chapatti I cuputi, iodyjski okragly plocek wyp:ekuny her droidit to polish off I zmieii a talertal, spalaszowaf jedzeme pop I pot. rapol g000wany starter I ptzystawka to straggle I zroaguf s:g to push on I nalegal to tackle sth I brad siy an rod, stawif rzervui
czolo

course I dame barely I En:prawie,trorhg waif I ohadona.bidala to trough I fainczywie jpsc, iret fleshiness I noysistoif pastime I rozrywka a sensuous I zmtslowy, dzielajyry
na zmysly

Okra

to extend I poszerzyi theme I usytek rendezvous I tu:spotkanie former I byly

to run I to: pruwadzrd

ample I pokainy. oil ity to bustle I krzytui sly, uwyuf buttons I podladki heeey w dialekcelurvajsker
easy"

to decipher I rozszyfrowai to enlist I usyliozaf petty I paszteoik plantain I gatunek banana, banan rajski dumpling I p:erig

english rotten loud and drink lone at Great Britain 1 5/2013

Yorkshire and The Midlands

look delicious, but I hope they don't disagree with her. Well, the meal was delicious and Dorota enjoyed it, although she won't accept b that it's British - spoilsport! . One of the odvanlaues , of living in Britsin is that you can eat food from anywhere in the world, and -/ as we're in Britain, that makes it British! Before we can rest for the night and visit the land of nod, we have a few more motorway miles to do to get to Melton Mowbray and the land of the Pork Pie. See VOLt tomorrow. Sweet dreams.

any kind of filling from fish to meat and vegetables. A plantain is in the same family as the banana and looks similar, but it's not sweet. Typically, it's deep-fried in pains oil. Jamaican dumplings are just made of flour, water and salt and then fried in a pan. The fond is quite spicy and full of flavour. The one thing I would say, though, is that it's rather on the heavy side. If you're grafting all day it's ideal, but if you're sat on your backside, it's sure to increase the surface area. Maybe it's as well that our tout will soon be aver.

Nottingham Cantonese
So now I'm claiming that Indian and Caribbean rngltgty is actually English, as we've embraced it so enthusiastically, to complete the colonial trio, I'm going Chinese or to be precise, Cantonese. In general, the Chinese have traded with Britain for centuries, and many arrived in Liverpool yjg the thjnging industry. Liverpool, Manchester and London all have their own Chinatowns that took just as if you've walked straight into the Bond Centre in Shanghai. With the leasing by Britain of Cantonese speaking Hong Kong and the granting of British passports to its residents,

further waves of immigrants arrived and gladly, many setup excellent restaurants. Forty mites south of Sheffield on the Ml, we find our way into Nottingham and specifically to the Orchid Restaurant. But I'm beginning to try Dorota's patience. 'So you're telling me that Chinese cooking is English too?' she says disbelievinaly. 'Why not?' I answer rhetorically, 'After all, we've got more loan words than a compulsive debtor; if roe see something, we like to claim it as our own, particularly if it's food, and everybody loves In buy a Chinese on the way home. However, we're not ggghix fQg a takeaway but a full sit-down meal. It's more uncharted water for Dornta, and I have to explain some of the items on the menu. Black beau sauce is used in quite a lot of the cooking, but Szechuan food is the south of China uses more chilli and tomato; sea food is very much used, but it can work with anything. Cantonese from Hong Kong also do a lot of sweet-and-sour dishes which jttgggppcair praggggie. But whatever you decide, we must order some sprinu rolls and BQIIiQn they're Chinese dumplings, for starters. For the main meat, I choose Sweetand-Sour Chicken, and Doroto, rather adventurously I feel, chooses the hotter Szechuan Stir-fried King Prawns. They

pot. prac000f to increase I zwiqkszyi cookery I kuchn a to embrace I przyjqi, zaakceptnuaf to trade with Sb I handlowaf a kirms via I przez, poprzez shipping I negluga, spedycja s disbellesiergly I z niedowierzanuem loan words I capt yczone sinwa, zapozy[zrflra curspaislue I knmpuIspoon, przymusnwy debtor I kredtoborca to settle for slit I zadowoit 55 pnprzestai no czymi sit-down meal I posdek no miniscu uncharted I nierbadany to incorporate I zawIeroi pineapple I anarlos spring rolls I rodzaj nadziewanych przystnwek rhorukterysryrnngeh gi. do iurhei azjatyck ej wonton I rodzai pierozkfw popularnych w kschs chikskej Iz rrymi rodaaiami n ad a ien a! adventurously I imiafo, zurhwaln 6 spoilsport I czfowiel rsujycy zobong advantage I caleb the land of nod I kruina snOw
4 t graft I ru

english nrutlerv food and drink tour of Great Britain I 5/201 3

A Day in the Supermarket

A Change 01 Plan
Dave finally gets his Full English Breakfast, but a touch ofMontezuma's revene for Dorota means that Dave islet loose in the supermarket.

Full English
After suffering the Welsh and Scottish ycjeIy, I finally get to eat my Full English Breakfast starting with a pot of ten. Today, I fancy Earl Grey; I just love that scented oil of bergamot flavour. Ggtggl? Maybe just one Weetabin, as I want to save some room for the main meal. The orange juice is made from freshly squeezed oranges - that's a nice touch, and, of course, o Montezuma's revenge I zemsta Montezumy, niednmaganietrawienne tbjawiajyce siy m.rr, biegunka, trwajce twykie dwa dni, ktorego dnznajyturyiri w Meksyks S variety odrniana, rrdzaj to fancy I Iubd scented I arnmalyczny cereal I platki zboiooe/iniadanitwe

there's toast cut into ttjnttgies served with pots of jam and marmalade, but it's an gaittgyijtg habit in R&Bs to bring the toast straight away, It's always cold by the time you get round to eating it. Centre stage, we have the Full English itself; fried egg with a i:tiaiity yolk, three rashers of Danish bacon, a coopie of herby Lincolnshire sausages, baked beans, grilled tomatoes, fried mushrooms and a slice of fried bread. freshly squeezed I iwinia wyoiniyly triangle I lrijkyt annoying I denerwujycy. citcyycy B&B (bed & breakfast) I aslata, a skiad ktdrej wchodzy nndeg i azyvIenIe straight away I of razu, natyrimiust runny I ptynriy,

That should set me up for the day. OK, so it a,Qgtits enough cholesterol to kill an elephant, but it's just a holiday innai. The only disappointment is that I'm eating alone.

Montezuma's Revenge
Doruta was up all night with the ixst_s and is now sleeping in bed. Maybe it's due to too much unfamiliar, spicy food, or maybe we've just signed nut Volk I iitiko rasher I plasterek, porcja son contain I zowierat treat I aczta, ptczyntunek disappointment I rtrrzamwanle with the trots I biegajyc, kiusujyc to pig out I pat, obzerad sy, obezrei siy

38 iu I 2 APR

tg

A Day in the Supermarket

too much and that's the result. Call it what you will; the runs, Delhi belly or Montezuma's revenge, but it's meant a complete rethink of the itjneray3c I was planning a walk around Melton Mowbray to sample locally made Pork Pie and to visit Cadbury's Chocolate world in Bournville, Birmingham. Now we'll stay here for another day and go straight down to London tomorrow. they'll be a bit cheaper here. I'd better ill ip to the cilgigist an well, to get some Imodium for Dorota's gyppy fiuttttty. A visit to ASDA Supermarket is always a treat, although I'm not sure about the 'Happy Greeter' who's a hit too friendly and doesn't quite seem all there to me. The shopping irgilnys are rethink I obrrythf na nowt itinerary plan pndroiy ovary cloud has a silver Icing I tie ma buray lea stohca opportunity I spustbnnir to stock upon sth I zanpatrzyf si5 w cot, zrnhit zapasy czegni provisions I ZapaSy cost sb an arm and a leg I byt burdzn drngrm, barizu duzn kosztuwai o to nip I tar nskuczyt
050

enormous and look empty until you've bankrupted yourself; but never mind, let's shop until we drop! Forty-five minutes later, I'm standing at the checkout wondering bow much this little lot is going to set me hack. How much? Oh my God, Dorota's going to kill me! 111. chemist I aptaka gyppy I put. bulyry, balesrry tummy I pat brzarh trolley I wIzek skIzpoa etc banloruptonatelf I zrnjsowaf sit, zbankrutowat never mind I niewalne to drop I tutlrtbif coil at upadlago, paid checkout I kasa sklepnwa to sat Sb back I kusztnwaf kugot, aderzyd kogripokieszeni

Dave's Goody Bag

But every cloud has a silver lining and it will give me the 0000rtunity to go into town and stock noon some hard to get nrovisions to take back to Poland. If you try hard, you can find them in Warsaw or Poznan, but they will ti you an arm and a lee, so I'm hoping

A Day in the Supermarket

Veto

Take a look at Dave's shopping, with prices and explanations about the items:

Quantity

Weighs grams /units 000k

U prior Es 085

Total price

Jacob's Crnarn Crackers

packet

OW

Crisp, thy aaoiaabi crackers, perfect with cheese. A popsiar

choline a is terry to ear there dry ones: sounds easy, but it's
tmpoxxible! 4 pccks I 01 Soft, tggugg wtddle cakes with holes; yaircniy to winter with A black yeast opugad that is delicious on toast. I've heed it out an Polish people they hate it! Little oroitcd lypolor great with hot milk and honey.

Cwrrrynrr

Mamriane

2 ieas

4170g

400

8.00

Shreddies cereal Weetahix cerrid Stied ded Wheat

2 boxes 1 box

i000g 48 biscuits

33" 3.98

7 14 3.98

Rgot.gugulggsghcalytlabu - nice with bet or raid milk. Dry, fibrous blocks of rn/anal now in spron-rrced yecer.

I boo

500g

2.00

2.38

Hartley 's Old English Marmalade Galaxy Chocolate Bar Chocolate Mixi wilt

2 inrx special afire 3 has

454g

'2.03

2.00

A dark, think marmalade with chauko of orange peel - great on roast. A Marc product. English chocolate typically has a low cocoa and high far context, nrakicg 1 rasher sweet and edofri. Around lee cmx as length and there in diameter, it's a createsfilled chocolate sponge wrapped in a chocolate cualiug. Custard is an egg based, yellow, sweet tasting racce roles with fruit pier. Mr Bred wax a chemist whose wife was allergic to eggs, so he made an egg-free version for her true lore! Pudding ncr in a Sweet, milky saucr; comfort lord from childhood. Atather artificial mix of shredded beef and earn so later atlattx block that short best when cold great in a sandwich with InmkL Aslmag, blue wined cheese; whiffs like divine!

long
6 in a bar

1.26

3.72

2 boxes

0.80

1.60

Bird's Custard Powder

211cc

SOGgy

0.80

1.60

Asrnbmsta Rice Pudding Conrad Beef

46cr

400g

0.78

2.80

2 risc

3406

2.00

4.80

Blur Srallao Cheese

2 blanks

220 g

2.00

4.80

jinift sucks has aastex

Scotch Eggs

2 yacht

4 to a park

164

228

Abnoled egg encased ins layer of sausage meal and covered in brradcrcmbx Aoasssage parcgllgditt pastry great hot or cxld; popular kid's parry feed. A ball of ogagbiocicuppud pork xartousded by gelatine and encased in a her water pastry.

Sausage Rolls

2 parks

Gina park

1.50

3.08

Mellon Mawbray Pork Poe

295g

1.86

3.72

reambig I hrccby challenge I orryawanle spongy I ggkczasty griddle cake I naleirlk gummy i pysa,y yeast I drazdze spread

wheaty I pszersny slab

chemist I Ic apteka drxferta artificial I salucavy

I pastel I pszonlca I wielkoxci

diulne I kovko encased I obranrowary, otcczsey lager I warslwa breedcrumkn parcelled ceymf pastry I crarto roughly I grubo chopped I sieksny surrounded by I atccacry prana

fibrous I a kforieikiem wheat fyWi thick chunk spoon-sized

I pasla. coy do

smarowanla (op. masks. car lop ooy) melted I slodtwy square I kwadrot rectangular

I Os: gysty I bawafek

sticky I Iepko, l0p140y se wrapped I owinigtg, taWtnlf!f rooting I palewa

I raadrobslsny I kokar1daa fIrm I sztvwn5, tweedy On slice I cigi flu plsstPy pickle I marynato blue veined I 0 eklevkl
shredded corn ple6eiowg to whiff I wioeyi smelly I 6mterdzqcy, cachnycy

I kolka toeD I pakawaxy

oddzielnie, tcuwinrgty/ttoc000y

I proslxkgtoy

40

englixh matters teed and drink tour of Decal Britain

I 5/2013

A Day in the Supermarket

tIer.. Quantity Weighs

tax ::
295g

Unit

O.

prier

_, Onions, can flower an4 other vegetables, fined and mined with a sweet, brown sauce great with cold neat and cheese. Small 05mm pickled in Ann, r,scntial Christmas party food.

Ploughosao'o Pickle Psvkted Onions Heinz Salad Cream

2 jars

2.00 1.78 1.50

400 356 4.50

aa

100 Ii, 46(4

3 bottles

Traditionally, British salads were waved without any dgin. Salad steam, which is a mom liquid, moniee, sweeree version of mayonnaise, would liygnitiip goad with chips too Mucla-d wiSh seal hoe, great with ham, but it will blow your head off! The king of brown sauce, this is spicier and thicker than its Haricot beaus march tomato ciurc. There are nIce) brand,, but H moo is by lot the best. Steak and hidsiny sea nchgoaoy. Remove the lid from the cylindrical tie, pus itan the uses and allow the gafkppstiy 00 the top to rise spectacular and tasty tea!

Coleman's cogftth Mustard HP Sauce Hcrnz Oalard Bean, Fray Be.. Steak and Kidney Pie Prince's Tinned Wild Red Salmon Toad

3 pa n
3 bottles 4 Ii iv 4 tilts

170g 170g 4154 475g

1,14

462 6.61 272 8.72

2.87 066 2.18

4 lion 213g

3.00

12.00

The aristocrat of tinned salmon best with a little vinegar and black pepper and eaten in a sandwich with encumber.

102.00

(For comparison with Poland, an bOg loaf

of bread costs 1.25 and a litre of milk 79p.)

When I gel back 10 the B&B, Dorola has come round but is still feeling a little bit googgy. She asks if everything is OK. 'Sure,' I reply, 'I bought you some Imudium to settle your tummy.' She lakes 61, then polo her head back on the pillow and says, 'You we a love; so thought ful.' She drifts back to sleep. Probably best not In trouble her with the shopping bill while she's feeling poorly. The food's still in the car. I might iflpQtgit and gel a sausage toll one wouldn't do any harm, would it?

puff pastry I dasfn ptfnlowe tinned I posakuwary loaf of bread I bnnhernk nOlebo ate sores rnand I dojif do steble groggy I pot pOlprzytomey, praymu ory thoughtful I ftuskliwy In drift back I wtacak poisracaf to feel poorly I pat. reed sq klspsbo In nip dome I aeiic

'
,, 5

y.3'

.
s I

so saul if lower I ho afinr dined I ponlekany w kusthq vinegar I ucof dressing I sos to liven things up I oi atmosferq, poprawtc Syluacjq/Star with real bite head off I to bgf natyle pdjdziedym z thy haricot beans I fasole

SKI

toallow zezwalat

oeglioh matters trod and drink tour of Great Britain

I 5/2013

caatre:6yUb

Putting On the Ritz

Last stop London and after a visit to Hugh Grant's old stomping ground, we end in style by pushing the boat our in one of the capital's swankiest hotels.

rFUe:Weddings No, too holy. Love Actually? No, it has to be Nutting Hill. That's the best Hugh ,tu belloss I pot. wydzoraf sg, rVczec to termer I dojif do nehie to sidestep I omini cot Izrtczniel oniknti np. omawianrajakieji kwestrr) outrageous I skasdalinzry, ohoraajtry oserthenourseof I w przeclogu to goons spending spree I pot zaszalef thoughtless I bezmytlny thoughtful I troskliu 2 togetoutof thedoghouse I pnr zrehabilitouafsrp to plough I On prot to lighten I oczyioe feature I to: audycjadnkamentalno to cheer sb up rozohrsarzyt kogul, poprawie komu? nastrdj improvement I polepszenie, prprowo Ott ponder I durna?, red fttwai gir1V I dziewcoynskie, w dziewczom 51010

Radio On
'How much?' Bellows Dorota. 'I see you've fully recovered.' I say, njolgsteping the question, '0102 that's outrageous! It's not like we have money to bum.' But you're looking lithe wrung way; over the course of the year, we'll save a fortune on what I've bought! But she's not buying it and continues, 'The minute my back's turned, you gonna soendinn spree. Really, Dave, you're Sn thoughtless.' Yesterday I was ihoginftii, today I'm thoughtless; just my luck. I'm going to have to work bardfgggi

out of the doghouse. An uncomfortable silence enters the car as we gkuglt south down the Ml. I pat on the radio to Ii the atmosphere. Alt, good old Radio 4; inteffigent discussions and documentaries. Oh, nice one, here's a feature on British Celebrity Chefs. That might cheer her up. Maybe you'd like to listen in.

Nailing Hill
It seemed to do the trick and, senslog an improvement in Durota's mood as we were near to London, I asked, 'what's your favourite British film?' She

42

english molten food and drink bar of Oreat Britain 15/2013

London

..H

[I

lie krst TV chef in 1955, Fanny Craddock soon hrcarneasource of oidL cole with pantomime dame make-up, a hail_gown and h,snboud Johnny neiuttniiug around in the harkernund.

Annhuuy Wnrrall-Thnmtn. sun wko some people comb iy described as a hobbit, got into hot water ever his 1,200 calorie cake per sicce. Snickers Graham Kerr, AKA, The Galloping CoavifigI, brought a mute relaxed style in 1970 and his shown were always acrgmnpaoied by e glass of wa wine. Al just 23, Jamie Oliver hosted the Naked Chef but only she fond was undo. He artificial fend from schonls and gut an MhZ.

Grant .' 'Good choice.' Ireply, 'because that's exactly where we're going.' 'Cool!' replies Dorota. Things are certainly looking on. We've come on Portobello Road and in particular, Portobello Market. It's huge and sells everything from btaigjes to doorknobs and state-of-the-art gizmos to antiques. The place is )baofl5iflg with tourists, locals, )taggko, bargain hunters and stall holders ggaiiitg their wares. You have to buy a piece of tat just for the fun of it, but all that igoilin around does give you an appetite, and we tutu down a side street in search of
sustenance.

London Underground
In 1863, the first line pJot.tamgelmton.naI.i (Metropolitan) was opened joining Paddinglou and King's Cross. Now, with nearly 400 kms of track and 13 lines, the system is the longest in the world Some of these lines are over ggutgtti, but in the cmIre a number of the stations are very deep with many levels. Due to their age, they become stiflingly hot in the summer. Temperatures touching 47 degrees have been known. Elecinician Harry Beck designed his map like a circuit board. Wonoing a sinaI) prize, he worked for the London Underground for the rest of his life. track I tor,tnry ground I rlemla due to I zpnwedu stiflingly I dosanc, dusz0co lstnauh I ru1slygei electrician I elnktryk ci tuft board I ptkaoboodu drokowenegn Iolmktr.I

Something t!Ialn. Something Strange

There's an Italian bistro, Armenian restaurant and even an Ethiopian one, but we're in search of something truly English. Alt, this is the one, an old fashioned Pie and Mesh shop! There are a few tables and a simple wlilsr oilier, but I don't mind slurruning it from time on time. There's something else on the counter and Dnrota asks, 'what on earth's that?' Avoiding the question, I ask, 'would you like In Icy some?' 'OK, why 001?' I ask for half a pig) of it, winch Dorota thinks seems strange. She tries it and says, 'yusk, diogunfin what is it?" Jellied baby.tcit they used to he very popular but now less so.' 'I'm not sucprisedl' says DonsIa. Litcbiilt the pie is made with itinicoti meal and is simply ooaotiti with salt and s rumcom I pot. knmmd a romaotyczno things are certainly looking op I sytcec a fektyczn lesy zmirnia no lepsae, jest sootHe comae np ej budgie (budgerigar) I pet. papcoko fallsti doorknob I galka U drrwl state-of-the-art I natrowncaefvirjszy gizmo I pot ustmn)stwo thronging with I prier haggler I turf Ujycy 511 bargain hunter I pcsrukiwacz okazji stall ho der slragantarz to tual I naterrzpoie, glofon znchwalat ware I InWat tall pet. tendeto trailing I Ic cagosiar

IVIC
FAM

.4

Oonsy Keith Floyd, tire wild an of cuolinco drank a bottle ot wine per recipe! He also monk the Camera crew outside retook at fretco around the world.

Gordon Ramsey brought drown, leans and luultrmmm and she F-word into rnokery. It could only he described as Hell's Kaekes! ridicule I wyimrewanie sly, ky ry dame j dama,damus a, slarsza pani ball gown I sukntO batowa to newsy I pydzif, blegok in the background I wIle cruelly I ekrolnle gourmet I swek05z to accompany I tnwarzyszvf In host I kyf gospodarzern naked I map, toll nude I ray, gull lunar a campaign I yrowadzii kampaniq artificial I sotacany MBE (Member of the Order of the British Empire) I kewaler Orderu Imper em
Brytylskiegn

pepper. The mash is nice and creamy and tastes bgllgGt. Not exactly the Ritz, but a typical poor Londoner's meal. It's one of the cheaper meats I've had, which is just as well, in view of what I've got planned for the finale of our 101w. 0. In turndown I sknycac in search of w poszukiweniu sustenance I wyaywIrnIn, pOr5wlenie plain I prosty, aa'aykly pie and monk I pierigfpasztmnk I puree counter I lada In slum I prretrzef what on earth's that I cc to no toga Jest pint I tu:plwc disgasting I cbraydlsny jellied I w galaretco baby eel I miody wygorz luckily I nar sarmyitie minced I nnmlnry, seasoned I przyprawiony sbuttery I rii

cookery I kuchnia recipe I pmecpis of frescu I no iwtezym powiotmzu (wl.) around the world I deckcla imlata tantrum I napad olnsct

engltsh matters fend and drink tour of (feral Britain 15/2013

43

The flthf
We find our way to a small local hotel that I've hooked and freshen up. As it's our last night out, I ask Durota to wear the PQJII6OI frock she's brought and she's rather surprised to we me donnin a jacket and tie. 'What's with the formal clothes?' She asks, 'are we going to see the Queen?' 'Almost.' Imply D3ipmigll. I'm not even going le_dhlcm I to drive across London so we catch the tube to our secret destination. We go from Westbourne Park Station to Baker Street, from where we pick up the Jubilee Line to Green Park. It's so easy to net around London by tube, but it gilghl is busy!

In 700pm. For 42, you can have tea and cucumber sandwiches but, fidojil opoauilog, I thought that was e_kiLof a oiss-take and that the 50 three-course, set menu was better value. I guess you're paying for the snob value and the chance tomb shoulders with Lords and the rich and famous. You have to book a table weeks in advance and there's even a dress code. People not titggbl attired will be rejected at the door. It's certainly QpithgoJiy decorated in a kind i tube I to. metro to both I rezerwowac to freshen up I odiwleiyi 516 poshest I najbardz a) elegarcki fnaok I sukenka to don I prairsdzlaf, prryheraf cryptically I tolerrrlrzo to attempt I prlbuwai destination I tel pnlroay to pickup Ira okjeidiaf,zw edaai to get around I tutbjezdzoi, zaierizof certainly I z cafy pewnoirly price tag I melka 2 cerry suite I apartamunt a frankly speaking I szczerze mow yc a bit of a pins-take I put uuaig. trorhyjakby szyderstwu, (tot to niemall kpina course I dane

of Louis XVI, Parisian, French Chteau style, with vaulted ceilings, mirrors and chandeliers: it's so over the top, it's almost hitch, but it's certainly one of the poshest places in London that you could lake a lady ie,thjate and pot on the Ritz. Our three-course meal has for starters the choice of Lanaousdor and Basil, ot Veal Sweetbreads. Sweetbread is a very euphemistic ward for either the thymos gloitd nrpaneoeas clan animal, so I'll pass on that, however nicely it's presented, to rub shoulders with ob I tbracai Si6 wjak us trnarzystaie, spntykaf jang by np. znakomituiril In advance I z gf, Ia zo wczost dress code I kod ubroniowy, zasady dutyczyre ubioru panujyce w danym miejscu suitably I udpuusiednir attired I ubrany to reject I tar tdprawiac opulently I ubfiria, hogatr 0 vaulted I sklepiaoy chandelier I zyrafldn to dine I jesr abiad langoustine I langusta veal I Cielicira euphemistic I rnninj dusadny thymus gland I gtusica pancreas I trzustka

Putting On the Ritz

Just a short walk from Green Park station, between Hyde Park and Marble Arch, we come to The Ritz. It was opened in 1906 by Cesar Ritz, following the success of his Ritz Hotel in Paris. It's a hotel and a restaurant, but you don't have to stay to eat hem. That's a good thing because my budget doesn't run to the 2,860 a night price_ia to stay in the Prince of Wales lithe. That might give you an idea of the price of the food. You can have afternoon tea at anyone of the five servings from 1100am through

44

english mourns lard and drink tone of Great Britain 15/2013

Langoustine, as Mr Lobster's little brother, sounds more palatable. For the main course, we have braised halibut served with asparagus and mushrooms with small lijpti of titnuky bacon - an interesting combination. [npsti(sh it Qff we have banana ice-cream and buttermilk sorbet. Dorota looks like a gpiyjpg cat that got the cream and rmuing the moment, lash. 'Do you still think that British food isyitgpfio?' 'No, not exactly,' she replies, gyasivel. 'then what Ptiistting my victory, I exactly?' 'Well, I suppose you could say that some alit is even delicious.' I'm not a sadist and I settle for this capitulation but Domta has a nick no her sleeve and says, 'So what's your opinion of Polish food in comparison?' 'You know what I think; it's an absolute disaster.' 'No tasty dishes at all?' pleads Domta gy(y. 'No, they all taste the same; uiclilsti nrrngigetl.' lu that case, next year, I challenge you to a tour of Poland and I'll prove to you how delicious our Polish national cuisine is - deal?' 'Deal!' I reply hasfily. Now by did I agree to that? Thanks for following us on our tour; U I hope you enjoyed it. Chin.t,ititt! lobster I hornur palatable I smaczny, smakowity braised I duszory asparagus I szparug strip I pasek smoky I wydanny to polish sth off I tcrsptokai buttermilk I nsailanka purring I rrrnrZyCy to seine I chtai the pits I pol.dxo evasively I wymijaigro to pursue I tirkortynanwat to persist I nalegaf to settle f or sth I aaduoualai srg rzymt to have a trick op one's sleeve I wycryga/ usa z rykawa in comparison I din poriwnania absolute I rolkowity disaster I katastrnfa to plead I blagof coyly I niejtnialO pickled I rrurynowany smoked I uaydznny to prove I udnwadniaf chin thin I pot aeff lprzy pnwrtanar lab pnieyaaniul,zdrtwknlprzywzroszena toostal

Braised Halibut Recipe

Ingredients 1(3 1/2-gitnt, boil-in-hue lone-grain rice 4 smoked bacon slices 1/3 cup chopped onion 1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme 8 (230g) ounces sliced mushrooms 2 teaspoons olive oil 4 (6-ounces) halibut fillets 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/4 teaspoon black pepper 1 cop dry white wine 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley Preparation 1.Cook rice according to package directions, omligin salt and fat. Drain and keep warm. 2. Cook bacon in a large non-stick skillet over medium heat until gujs. Remove bacon from pan; crumble. Add onion, thyme, and mushrooms to thio pings in pan; saut for 3 minutes. Remove mushroom mixture from pan. 3. Heat oil in pan over medium heat. Sprinkl fish with salt and pepper. Add fish to pan and cook for 2 minutes on each side or until tgnutgg. Return the mushroom mixture to pan. btct in wine and cook for 3 minutes or until fish flakes easily when tested with a fork or until desired degree of doneness. Sprinkle with crumbled bacon and parsley. Serve on a bed of rice.

ounce I urcio bull-In-bag I do gxtowanra w torebre long-grain I dlngoziarnisty slice I plaster chopped I siekany parsley I pietraszka according to I wed/u& zgodve z package directions I wskazdwkr opakowania to cmli I omijal

to drain I cdsyczyE nun-stick I nieprzyaeeralycy skillet I rondel to crisp I chrupat to crumble I kraszyi, pnkrusayi dripping I 505 to sprinkle I spryskal to brown I aarumleni& przyrumienie to stir I mlesaa( rozmresra to flake I ndpodai platoon

Especially for this edition of English Matters on British food, we've prepared our very own cookery video! Go to emfood&drink.colorfulmedia.pl where you can see English Matters' resident Brit. Graham Crawford, cooking some delicious traditional biscuits called flapjacks watch the video, then make them yourself. They're easy and delicious!

english oratlrrs mod and drink tour of (treat Britain 1 5/21113

U Vocabulary

Food and Drink Tour Quiz

1. General knowledge
1. What is cider made from? 2. What shape is a Cumberland Sausage? 3. Whatdoes Uncle Joe make? 4. S. What is haggis made from? What's another name for a Cornish Pasty? 6. What are Mushy Peas? 7. What is Real Ale? 8. What is unusual about a Glamorgan Sausage? 9. What is Scotch Egg? 10. What is Marmite?

3. Match the tood to the places.

ImaII

4. Match the Celebrity Chef to their famous characteristic. Complete the recipe cooking instructions for Mussel and Onion Stew, using wordsfrom the text box. Nigella Lawson famous for swearing
Keith Floyd Gary Rhodes 1) To prepare the mussels, them thoroughly under running cold water, then 2) any barnacles with a small sharp knife. the fibrous beards that protrude 3) from between the shells. Wash in several changes of water. any that are cracked or do not close 4) when tapped sharply with a knife. Put the wine in a large saucepan and 1) to the boil. Add the mussels; and cook over a high heat for 3-4 min_________ utes or until the mussels open, shaking the pan occasionally. Discard any mussels that have not opened. 7) _________ 8) the mussels, reserving the juice. mussels from the shells. Gordon Ramsey Fanny Craddock Anthony Wnrralt-Thompson Jamie Oliver 0dm Smith Graham Kerr Ainsley Harfiott hosted Ready, Steady, Cook! hosted The Naked Chef famous for boozing on camera was nicknamed The Galloping Gourmet looked like a punk father was Chancellor of the Euchoqner produced a highly ualorifc cake wore a ball goon and heavy make-up taught people how to boil an egg

9) _________________the butter in a saucepan and lightly 10) the onions for about? minutes, until soft but not coloured. 11) _______________ the flout and cook for a minute. Gradually add the milk and the mussel cooking liquid, stirring, until the sauce thickens, boils and is smooth, 12) foci -2 minutes. 13) and cream. 14) mussels to The pan with the parsley gently. Serve with crusty

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sjmnsuv

46

english matters land and drink tour of Great Britain 15/2013

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