I N D I A S

F I R S T

T R AV E L

M A G A Z I N E

FEBRUARY 2014 `100

TWO STEPS AHEAD

Stunning Destinations To Refresh Your Heart & Mind Eternal Regional Cuisines The Jharkhand Youve Never Seen The Chhattisgarh Experience Contemporary Art To The Fore
VOLUME 27 ISSUE 2

CONTENTS
FEBRUARY 2014

Anchor
GREAT IDEAS FOR THE TRAVELLER

PHOTOGRAPHY

The Most Picturesque Forts In India | Unseen Jharkhand | Chhattisgarh Unlimited | The Tranquil Lake | History Comes Alive

28
ONE-STOP BEAUTY Quaint village life meets a vineyard, a fort and hilltop temples in Akluj, Maharashtra. Its perfect for a romantic getaway.

34
PROUD CITADELS India and heritage are veritable synonyms. For centuries, rulers and patrons have built forts that have braved the sands of time. As we celebrate our 26th anniversary, we take you to 26 forts that everyone must visit at least once.

52
UNSEEN JHARKHAND We go deep into this yet-unspoilt state to see a people and landscapes that will come as a pleasant surprise. We present this beauty via photos.

62
UNREVEALED WONDER Youve probably never heard of Prashar Lake, the hidden gem surrounded by lush mountains. Its a scenic adventure you must undertake.

71
COMPLETE CHHATTISGARH Heres an indepth look at the most visited locations in this state, as well as pointers on how you should plan your trip now.

The rustic beauty and bounty of Chitrakote Falls in Chhattisgarh will draw you in

FEBRUARY 2014

Gateway
ENTER HERE FOR INDIA

Manifesto
O P I N I O N S & O B S E RVAT I O N S

Chest
MAKE THE MOST OF THAT JOURNEY

Circumnavigate
THE WORLD, FROM THE INDIAN EYE

PHOTOGRAPHY

Nothing adds a touch of flair to a vacation quite like Mot & Chandons latest holiday accessory. This exquisite trunk, better known as the Mot Ice Imprial Summer Escape Trunk, actually transforms into a bar-on-the-go at any holiday destination, be it a romantic rendezvous aboard a sun-drenched yacht, a full-blown beach party or even a chill session amidst pointy peaks, and ensures your party spirits stay uplifted throughout. It houses 20 bottles of Mot Ice Imprial that can be enjoyed in any of the 24 large glasses it can also stock, in addition to two removeable glass shelves, two ice buckets, and three smartly-devised sections for ice cubes, garnishes and other accessories. P

Some Great Places, Ideas & Deals Await You In Almost Every Corner Of The Country

THE SENSE OF HEARING Our Columnists Recount Their Most Acoustic Memories

Essential Travel Reads | All-Weather Grooming Smart New Gear | Boost Your Entertainment On The Move

Revisiting Scenic & Vibrant Bali Animals Steal The Show In Hamilton, Canada

12
GASTRO TRAVELLER New menus and restaurants await you in some unlikely nooks of our cities, with a plateful of cuisines.

88
THE RUSTIC OBSERVER Ruskin Bond talks about a hilltop that has some very interesting legends attached to it.

96
THE COOL TOOLS These trendy gadgets are not just fun, but great companions for anyone who likes to hit the road once in a while.

104
SUN, SAND & VACATION We take a short trip to Baliwith luxury beach resorts and all the local tourist sights you should take in.

14
CURRENT CONCIERGE Comfort, luxury, great views and good service are at hand in some new and refurbished properties. Book that room now.

89
THE ART FILES Ashoke Nag highlights the advent of new age artists and how they shaped the contemporary art scene in India.

97
SNOW STUNNER The new Yamaha Apex SE snowmobile is a machine that prowls the snow-laden trails.

108
FRIENDS OF FAR LANDS Discover India takes you on an African Lion Safari in Hamilton, Canada. Its no less fun than the grasslands.

90
THE EXPAT DIARIES Victoria Burrows on how travelling lets you meet interesting people, whom you stay in touch with.

98
WEATHER-PROOF It is the season to be outdoors, but you need to take care of yourself. These grooming products will make sure your skin is well looked-after.

22
INQUISITIVE TRAVELLER Theres so much happening in the month of February. We pick the most interesting deals and travel news.

91
THE TRAIL ORGANISER Arjun Majumdar lists the four easy or moderate treks that all trekking enthusiasts should undertake.

100
JOURNEY COMPANIONS New movies, music and apps that will elevate your journey.

92
THE GYPSY CHRONICLES Abhishek Madhukar travels to Gopalpur and finds some sights and sounds that most people overlook.

93
THE INFORMED GUESTBOOK Vivek Pareek talks about the explicit simplicity of a homestay.

EXPLORE OUR SOCIAL SIDE...

Like us on Facebook Go to facebook.com/pages/DiscoverIndia-Magazine/219485604732339

Follow us on Twitter Go to twitter.com and follow our travels at @DiscoverIndia25

FEBRUARY 2014

01/02/2014
irst off, I must thank all the readers and even casual glance-throughersof Discover India for the overwhelmingly positive response to our January cover story on the Jewellery Trail. A lot of you have appreciated the golden colour we have used to frame the picture although, I must admit, we were a little concerned about breaking our vintage DI white frame. But then, because the issue marked our 26th Anniversary, it made sense to infuse a bit of celebration via a solid colour. This month, and every month hereafter, were going to have a 26-themed story in the magazine. Not because were full of ourselves, but because youd expect us to mark this milestone by doing more than just a single special issue. For February, we have chosen the 26 forts every Indian must visit. Youre bound to have seen some of them already, but youd do well to plan a family holiday to one of the others. I can guarantee itll make for a great vacation. There are also some unique destinations that our writers and photographers have outlined for you. From hidden lakes in Uttarakhand to small but hospitable towns in Maharashtra, theres something for everyone, regardless of whether you like to rough it out on the trail or whether youd like a quiet and luxurious getaway. Not to forget our Special Feature on Chhattisgarh, a state that has so much to offer in terms of cultural history and natural beauty. We cover the best tourist sites this central Indian state has to offer, and Im sure youll plan a trip sometime in the near future. Another article that weve spent considerable time putting together is a photo-feature on the unseen parts of Jharkhand which, again, will force you to rework your perception of what this statelike this magnicent countryhas to offer. The year 2014 has started off well for us here at Discover India, and I look forward to your comments and suggestions as we move forward. Its only because of your continued feedback that we have been able to get better and become more ambitious in our editorial endeavours. And, as always, if theres some destination that youve been to and would like others to know about, please do write in. Travelling is a community, and experiences only make the path easier for our fellow travellers.

RUSKIN BOND
Padma Bhushan and one of Indias most celebrated writers

ASHOKE NAG
Reputed contemporary art critic, commentator and journalist

ARJUN MAJUMDAR
Expert trekker, blogger and founder of Indiahikes

VICTORIA BURROWS
International travel and food writer for a number of journals

VIVEK PAREEK Editor

ABHISHEK MADHUKAR
Photo journalist who covers travel, culture and social affairs

FEBRUARY 2014

Beautiful Places

Worth a visit!
Worth a lifetime!!

`t|

Welcome to Manipur An oval shaped valley surrounded by blue green hills, rich in art and tradition has inspired description such as the Switzerland of the East with its cascading rapids, tripling rivers, varieties of flowers, exotic blooms and lakes.

The Jewel of India

DEPARTMENT OF TOURISM GOVERNMENT OF MANIPUR

Tel. No. +91 9774438607 Website: www.manipurtourism.gov.in

I N D I A S F I R S T T R AV E L M A G A Z I N E
Editor VIVEK PAREEK Creative Director BIPIN KUMAR Senior Sub-Editor SAMONWAY DUTTAGUPTA Assistant Art Director MUKESH KUMAR Editorial Consultant YANA BANERJEE-BEY Contributing Designers SACHIN JAIN (Deputy Art Director) AJAY KUMAR (Assistant Art Director) SUJIT SINGH (Senior Visualiser) Editorial Assistant KANCHAN RANA PRODUCTION SUNIL DUBEY (Deputy General Manager), DINESH MASIH, BRIJESH JUYAL (Pre-Press Executives) SALES & MARKETING JYOTIE RATHOD (National Sales Head) RUPAL SHUKLA (New Delhi) 0124 4759688 HIMANSHU SHRIVASTAVA (Mumbai) 022 42467777 SUJIT BOSE (Kolkata) 033 22874298 D KARTHIK (Chennai) 044 28141816 JOY TALAPATRA (Bengaluru) 080 22219578 P.P.S. MARWA (Lucknow) 0522 2780754 NEERAJ RAWAT Manager (Marketing) C.P. SHREEDHARAN Manager (Scheduling) SONYA CAROLINE SHAH Manager (Human Resources) PRODUCT SALES & CONSUMER SERVICES VIPUL JAIN (Head, Retail Sales) ASHISH SAWHNEY (Manager, Subscriptions) Regional Managers SATHYA NARAYANA T S (South) SOMNATH PRAMANIK (East) SUBASH MISHRA (West)

GOES GOES DIGITA AL! DIGITAL!

Get G et I Indias n di as f first irst t travel r avel magazine your your m ag azi ne on on y our iPad, i Pad , y our tablet or your your smartphone sma ar t phone with our digital edition. e editio n. With experiences, W ith destinations, destinations, exper e iences, expert e x pe r t tips ti p s and an d incredible i n c re d i b l e photos, y ou l l be able ble to plan photos, youll ab your snap. your next holiday holiday in i a snap . Log and buy your copy L og on on a nd b uy y our c o py today at... t d y at.. toda t . www.magzter.com/discoverindia www.magzter.com/di isco ver india www.readwhere.com www.readwhere.com

Chairman J.S. UBEROI President XAVIER COLLACO Director AMRITA SHAHRA CEO PIYUSH SHARMA Financial Controller PUNEET NANDA

Discover India is published by Media Transasia Ltd. 1205, Hollywood Centre, 223 Hollywood Road, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong. Tel: (852) 28153111; Fax: (852) 28511933; Editorial email: discoverindia@mtil.biz Entire contents Copyright 2013 Media Transasia Ltd. All rights reserved. Reproduction or translation in any language in whole or in part without permission is prohibited. Requests for permission should be directed to Media Transasia (India) Pvt. Ltd. Opinions carried in Discover India are the writers and not necessarily endorsed by Media Transasia (India) Pvt. Ltd or the publishers. The publisher assumes no responsibility for return of unsolicited material unless accompanied by sufficient return postage. Nor is it responsible for material lost or damaged in transit. All correspondence regarding advertising or editorial should be addressed to Media Transasia (India) Pvt. Ltd., 323, Udyog Vihar Phase IV, Gurgaon122016, Haryana, India. Tel: 0124 4759500, Fax: 0124 4759550

Contributors

ABHISHEK GUPTA PHOTOGRAPHER After spending several years in Africa as a professional photographer, Abhishek came home to Jharkhand. He captures its unexplored parts and shows us how much it has to offer.

DIVYA DUGAR WRITER Divya is a published author, documentary filmmaker and a travel writerphotographer. When not travelling or making plans to do so, she loves to spend time with her three dogs. She takes us to the 26 best forts in India.

YANA BANERJEE-BEY EDITORIAL CONSULTANT Yana is an accomplished traveller, having scaled peaks and worked at the worlds largest sporting events. Shes also been an editor for more than two decades.

BINDU GOPAL RAO WRITER A cost accountant with an MBA, Bindu feels that travel writing gives her an opportunity to meet a variety of people and allows her to explore new places, all of which makes journeys even more fulfilling. She takes us on a trip to Akluj.

ABHILASHA SIHAG WRITER Abhilasha says she is cool and positive and is quick with a smile. She loves to travel and cook, and is a regular contributor to the gizmos section of DI.

ADITYA GUPTA WRITER Aditya has a business in home fashion products, and his passion for design makes him work closely with clients around the world on design issues. He is fond of architecture, travel and photography. He writes on Bali.

RUPALI DEAN WRITER Rupali has a passion for all things good in lifetravel, food, books, plays, films, photography, Champagne, the joys of a spa... and very smartly has converted this into a profession. She is a regular food reviewer for DI.

SAHIL MOHAN GUPTA WRITER A manic technology journalist who is always wired to the tee, Sahil is currently the head of online operations at My Mobile. He is also a sound engineer and blues guitarist, and a regular contributor to our apps section.

FEBRUARY 2014

Missives
WE GO WITH YOUR FLOW
try too hard to pander to this trend of celebrities and luxury. I especially like your list features, like the one you carried in your January 2014 issue. What impressed me was the choice of destinations, which were rather uncommon and places I would like to visit.
NETRA SHARMA Bengaluru

An Artists Joy

The Jewellery Trail

Whenever I travel, the first thing on my mind is shopping. I like to buy locally-made clothes, artifacts and jewellery, of course. I did not expect to find a story like the one Discover India has featured on the best places to buy jewellery in India. The story was quite informative and the accompanying photos were very well-produced. Im looking forward to more such stories in your magazine. Also, I am sure there are many women like me, and we would love to see a regular section on jewellery and clothes in your magazine. DIVYA SINGH New Delhi

I want to thank Discover India for introducing a column on contemporary art and I hope it will be a regular feature. Being an artist, its a pleasure to read something on the subject, because most

Amazing Illustrations
I am an avid reader of most travel magazines, so I do come across each magazines Anniversary edition. I like the way Discover India celebrated its special issue with a Pop Art essay. The illustrations were stunning and showed that

a lot of thought had gone into them, especially with regard to the vintage charts and designs. I liked the idea immensely and I think it would be a good idea for you to issue prints. I can certainly see myself putting up one of these illustrations in my study or living room.
SUJIT SINGH Mumbai

articles tend to be about the business of art in terms of money. Plus, if the piece is well-researched and well-written, it is just that much more welcome.
SAMBUDDHA DUTTAGUPTA New Delhi

Exquisite Lake
Lake Kawaguchi and its surrounding area seemed like an artists impression of Japan, until I realised that they were actually photographs. This was just the push I needed to take my family to this place. I went there with my parents two decades ago, and I would like my children to see it for themselves. Theyre also excited after seeing the beautiful photos that accompanied the article. Youve given us an unintended family vacation!
VIDYUT MALHOTRA Gurgaon

Charmed By Change
I have not been a reader of Discover India, but an issue landed on my desk in December. Since then, I have revisited all your old issues online and bought most of them. Your content is quite different from the other travel magazines, and you dont

DI COORDINATES
Physical mail: Discover India, Media Transasia India Ltd, 323 Udyog Vihar Phase IV, Gurgaon122016; Facsimile: +91-124-4759550; Email: DiscoverIndia@mtil.biz FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS Call +91-124-4759616/17, +91-9899414369 or email circulation@mtil.biz

10

FEBRUARY 2014

Gateway
ENTER HERE FOR INDIA

PHOTOGRAPHY ABHISHEK GUPTA

Some Great Places, Ideas & Deals Await You In Almost Every Corner Of The Country

Gateway GASTRO TRAVELLER

ITALIAN WARMTH AND FLAVOUR

La Terrazza Trattoria in Pune has excellent ambience as well as food.
he decor, ambience and service conjure up the warmth of an Italian home. The restaurant includes a show kitchen with two single-compartment woodfired ovens, portico seating and a bar area. Enjoy your meal indoors or on the open deck with the backdrop of a busy pizza oven. To whet the appetite, a platter of bruschetta, a selection of fish croquettes, wood-fired, oven-roasted asparagus with taleggio crumbs, spicy salami and red onion pizza, and homemade Italian bread are perfect. The pasta dishes and mains do not disappoint and some, such as the spinach and ricotta ravioli and grilled tenderloin with pepper sauce, are outstanding. The pan-fried mackerel is a seafood lovers dream and leaves you wanting more. Save room for the heavenly tiramisu, made from home-made mascarpone cheese which enhances its flavour. The restaurant has all the perfect ingredients for memorable dining! If I had to

CROSS-CUL TURAL RECIPES

CREATIVE FOOD AMID CLASSY CHIC

Masala Library by Jiggs Kalra, Mumbai, reinvents Indian food.
amuse-bouche, the wild rice sev puri on the go served in a pretty rickshaw, was novel and yet followed a familiar format, with shades of street food flavours. The Thalassery rasam, steamed basa dumpling, dosai tuile, pinenut pattice, ragda hummus, feta salad and deconstructed pav bhaji stoke your appetite with unique flavours. I threw myself upon the dessert tray with abandon. Not that I needed an excuse to sample the Jalebi caviar with saffron glaze and pistachio rabri, a tray of childhood memories, and the crowning gloryGhewar cheese cakewhich was utterly spongy, decadent, rich. Address Masala Library by Jiggs Kalra, Ground Floor, First International Financial Centre (CITI BANK Building), G Block, Opp. Sofitel Hotel, Bandra-Kurla Complex, Bandra (E), Mumbai400051 Timings Open for lunch and dinner Meal for two `2,500, without alcohol Reservations 022 6642 4142

ith clean lines and seating that has a welcoming touch, this outlet is none too traditional in its dcor. Ownerfounder Zorawar Kalras answer to updating Indian food has been to plate it artfully, applying science to cooking and adding innovative ingredients. The
FEBRUARY 2014

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ITALIAN WARMTH AND FLAVOUR, CREATIVE FOOD AMID CLASSY CHIC, FULFIL YOUR CHINESE CRAVING WORDS RUPALI DEAN CULINARY ODYSSEY FOR INDOPHILES WORDS & PHOTOGRAPHY BINDU GOPAL RAO

pick one restaurant out of the myriad of excellent choices in Pune, this would certainly top the list. Address La Terrazza Trattoria, Hyatt Regency, Weikfield IT Park, Pune Nagar Road, Pune411014 Timings Open for lunch and dinner Meal for Two `2,500 approximately, without alcohol Reservations 020 6645 1400

FULFIL YOUR CHINESE CRAVING

Shanghai Club, New Delhi, has no mediocre dishes.

MORE

CULINARY ODYSSEY FOR INDOPHILES

opper Point, Chennai, offers a journey through traditional kitchens across India. The menu offers delicacies from the southern states of Tamil Nadu, Kerala and Karnataka as well as tandoori and Mughlai cuisine. For starters, try the Vasantha Neer, a refreshing drink made with tender coconut, honey, lime and chopped malai flavoured with mint. They have a variety of spiced seafood and flavoursome kebabs and a range of soups as well. The restaurant

his is a Chinese restaurant at which you must let yourself go and eat until your senses are satiated. The cooking and flavours deserve it. The first piece of advice I have is that Chinese soup-lovers should not miss the chicken and mushroom clear soup here. It is a refreshing, clear and tangy delight. Also try the ever-popular and traditional hot and sour soup. The dimsums in this restaurant are equally a must-have, as they are a fine representation of the excellent quality that the kitchen upholds. At most places, the dimsum dishes tend to be centred around the usual ingredients. However, what makes the difference is the creative use of these ingredients by the chef. This is what brings in the element of surprise, breaks the taste and encourages the diner to sample some more.

Other must-tries include the Beijing roast duck, the pan-fried pomfret with soy and ginger, and the BBQ spare ribs. When you are done, go for the desserts. They range from oriental delights to the dependable ice-creams. For a typical oriental, refreshing sweet ending, opt for the steamed coconut and cashew parcels, which are decadent to the core! A good selection of beverages (with a nice wine list that includes Pinot Grigio, Riesling and so on) complements the meal. There are no mediocre dishes here and the service is impeccable. Address WelcomHotel Dwarka, Plot No. 3, Sector 10, District Centre, Dwarka, New Delhi110001 Timings 811.30 pm Meal for Two `2,500 plus taxes Reservations 011 4222 9222

offers a good mix for vegetarians and non-vegetarians and has some unique dishes like Subzi ka Mela, the Kashmiri Gosht Roganjosh and Meen Moilee, a traditional Kerala fish-based dish. A must-try is appam with stew and Kozhi Varutha Kozhambu. Indulge your sweet tooth with the Elaneer Payasam, made with fresh tender coconut, and the Falooda Kulfi. Address 120, Sir Thyagaraya Road, GRT Grand, Chennai600 017 Timings 12.30 pm to 3pm; 7.30 pm to 11.30 pm Meal for two `1,200 plus taxes approximately Reservations 044 2815 0500

FEBRUARY 2014

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Gateway CURRENT CONCIERGE

TRENDY, CLASSY & FUSS-FREE

Dusit Devarana New Delhi offers Thai charm with modern exclusivity.

rom your arrival in the grand foyer, set amongst eight acres of luscious green and waterbodies, with its regally columned verandahs, you will be swept into another world. The hotel spells luxury and exclusivity in a theme that runs through every room and facility. At the Devarana Spa, along with the standard spa fare, there is a pervasive influence of Thai traditionsevident in the Thai ambience, staff and treatments. On offer is a wide range of relaxing, rejuvenating, and holistic treatments administered by
FEBRUARY 2014

skilled therapists. Top-class restaurants and bars are a highlight at the property and provide an unmatched meal experience. Kiyan offers the very best in world cuisine, with farm-fresh produce, authenticity in taste and picture-perfect platters. Lah bar has a select young fare, offering trendy mixology options, boutique brewery beers and new-age wines. The ambience, music and service reflect the fashionable yet no-fuss attitude of today. Kai, the signature Michelin starred-restaurant,

NAVIGATOR
Address Dusit Devarana New Delhi, Samalkha, NH-8, New Delhi110037 By Air 10 minutes drive from the airport. By Rail New Delhi railway station is an hours drive away. By Road Located between New Delhi and Gurgaon, it is well-connected by taxis. Price Factor `20,000 per night, inclusive of breakfast and transfers. Reservations 011 3015 8656

is the world-renowned contemporary take on Chinese cuisine and is matched only by the opulence of its outdoor marquee setting. Dusit provides a superlative stay experience for guests. Commencing with the smile of the bell boy who insists on taking over your luggage right at the entrance and going on to the friendly receptionist who checks you in, you will love this place with its Thai slant on the contemporary hotel experience. The accent is certainly on service of the highest quality.

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TRENDY, CLASSY & FUSS-FREE WORDS RUPALI DEAN SUN, SAND AND SPA IN GOA WORDS BINDU GOPAL RAO

SUN, SAND AND SPA IN GOA

Pride Sun Village Resort & Spa, Goa, is plush and indulgent.

ocated close to North Goas happening Baga beach and its markets and water sports, Pride Sun Village Resort & Spa offers an indulgent and all-inclusive experience within its landscaped environs. And, in keeping with Goas ethos of sun, sand and surf, a statue of Helios, the Sun God of the ancient Greeks, welcomes you to the resort. This resort blends classic, contemporary and local styles to highlight the spirit of Goa. All the 136 air-conditioned and plush

suites come with high-end facilities and the sprawling half-acre lawn is a big draw. The restaurantsHibiscus, Sunflower and Tonatiuh offer an array of lipsmacking culinary delights. Each restaurant has its own unique ambience and impeccably-themed dcor as well as good gastronomic experiences. There are also two swimming pools complemented by a sunbedded pool area as well as an exclusive spa that offers a variety of therapies with a salon for even more

NAVIGATOR
Address Saquwadi, Baga Arpora, Calangute, Goa403 518. By Air Dabolim airport is the nearest. By Rail Karmali is the nearest railway station (11 km). By Road Calangute is well-connected with major cities. Taxis are also available from Panaji and Madgaon. Reservations 0832 226 9103

pampering. A state-of-theart gymnasium is also available for the fitnessconscious. A range of evening entertainment programmes is organised within the resort and it also offers the convenience of shopping at the nearby Shopping Arcade. State-ofthe-art communications systems and presentation facilities make the spacious conference rooms ideal for seminars and workshops. So go ahead and plan a luxurious working holiday or a chilled-out, donothing break!

FEBRUARY 2014

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Gateway CURRENT CONCIERGE

LEAVING ONLY FOOTPRINTS

arefoot at Havelock, in the Andaman Islands, is a refreshing delight: for the sheer promise of its name, for its recently-launched Ayurveda spa (the only one of its kind on Havelock Island), and for its plush rainforests and kaleidoscopic marine life. The two-kilometre beach (Beach No. 7) that marries soft, white sand to rippling ombre waters has never failed to entice since 2002, when the resort was launched by co-founders Samit Sawhny, Ashish Gupta, Susheel Dixit and Deepak Govind under the
FEBRUARY 2014

Barefoot group, a non-profit organisation that promotes tourism in the region. Reborn from the erstwhile Jungle Resort, Barefoot at Havelock sprawls over seven acres of pesticideand fertiliser-free grounds and houses 25 rooms. In keeping with its theme, the hotel does not offer room service, television or telephones. It also features an RO water treatment plant that supplies water from a natural spring, thereby reducing plastic imports. The property is built with locally-sourced natural materialwood, cane,

NAVIGATOR
By Air It is a 90-minute journey from Port Blair airport. You are dropped to the Havelock jetty from where a speed catamaran departs at 8.45 am daily. Price Factor `4,200-11,000 (low season, August-September); `9,50022,000 (peak season, DecemberJanuary) for double occupancy (`500 less for single occupancy).

Reservations 09840238042; email reservations@barefootindia.com/ reservations@barefoot-andaman.com; web barefoot-andaman.com

bamboo and thatch. Built on stilts, the Nicobari Suite is architecturally designed not to require airconditioning. There are three other types of cottages. Guests can make diving (PADI-certified) trips, snorkel alongside swimming elephants or catch dinner in a dunghi. Walks with nature guides are also organised. Or visit the Ayurveda Centre. Plush luxury is unavailable here but the peace of holidaying without disrupting nature and the enviroment go a longer way in cleansing the soul.

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LEAVING ONLY FOOTPRINTS WORDS AASHMITA NAYAR AROMA OF COFFEE & HISTORY WORDS BINDU GOPAL RAO

Barefoot at Havelock, Andamans, is for those who value the environment.

AROMA OF COFFEE & HISTORY

The Thaneerhulla Heritage Bungalow, Coorg, is an old world experience.

et amidst lush coffee plantations, Coorg is a holiday destination like none other. Add a heritage bungalow in this peerless natural setting and a holiday here is guaranteed to be a cherished memory forever. The Thaneerhulla Heritage Bungalow, named after a beautiful pond, has antiquated wooden flooring and a cosy fireplace that adds an old world charm to this quiet haven 3,000 feet above sea level. History and heritage blend seamlessly with the picturesque hills of the Western Ghats and the aroma of coffee creating an

experience nonpareil. Tata Coffee has beautifully restored the more than 100year-old bungalow and guests have the option of staying in the Thaneerhulla Rooms or the Thaneerhulla Suites. All the rooms come with en suite bathrooms and personalised butler service. The five spacious and airy rooms are appointed with Victorian furniture, TV, Wi-Fi, hot and cold running water, airconditioning and a view of the coffee plantations. There is also a spacious dining and living area which is common. The kitchen dishes out some

NAVIGATOR
Address Thaneerhulla Heritage Bungalow, Thaneerhulla Division, Woshully Estate, Tata Coffee Ltd., Pollibetta571 215. By Air The nearest airport is at Mangalore (181 km). By Rail The nearest station is Mysore (102 km). By Road There are several buses from Bengaluru and Mysore to Pollibetta in Coorg. Reservations 080 2356 0761; email reach.plantationtrails@tatacoffee.com

lovely Coorgi delights and also home-cooked Continental and North Indian food. Guests can also enjoy healthy vegetarian cuisine, which is prepared only on request. The Nagarahole National Park, Irupu Falls, the sacred Talacauvery (birthplace of the Cauvery river) and Bylakuppe (a Tibetan settlement) are all located within an hours drive. Or do the Bean to Cup plantation tour that takes you through the tranquil, green estate. You can also tee off at the private nine-hole golf course.

FEBRUARY 2014

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Gateway CURRENT CONCIERGE

BEACH-FRONT WONDER
Mayfair Waves, Puri, offers some magnificent ocean views.

f you are planning a beach holiday, you should definitely consider Puri in Odisha. The place has some of the most scenic beaches you will find on the eastern coast, but it is the prolific heritage that makes it rather unique. And while youre there, the best thing you can do is stay at a property that allows you to be close to Nature and to the city. The Mayfair Groups latest property in Puri, Mayfair Waves, lets you do just that. This ocean-front boutique resort is adjacent to the existing Mayfair
FEBRUARY 2014

Heritage, and is ideal for a family getaway. The resort can also be a memorable destination for weddings, given that it has all the scenic beauty you can look for. Plus, Mayfair Waves can also host corporate residential events, given its state-ofthe-art conference and banquet facilities. The rooms are divided into the premium room and premium suite categories. The rooms are spacious and stylish, and some offer private balconies or sit-out areas that let you gaze at picturesque sunsets in the

NAVIGATOR
Address Mayfair Waves, Chakratirtha Road, Puri - 752 002 By Air The nearest airport is Biju Patnaik Airport, Bhubaneswar, a one-hour drive to the hotel. By Rail Puri is well-connected by direct train services from major Indian cities. The station is a 10-minute drive from the hotel. By Road Puri is 540 km from Kolkata and 90 km from Cuttack. Reservations 06752 660 101; email waves@mayfairhotels.com; web mayfairhotels.com

Bay of Bengal. The suites are also well-furnished. The premium suites offer the additional benefits of a separate living and dining area, two bathrooms and a private balcony. Other facilities include a spa that offers rejuvenation and relaxation packages, the multicuisine restaurant Samudra, and The Shacks, a beach-front bar area. Of course, as befits a premium property, a swimming pool, a multipurpose gym, a game room and a well-stocked boutique add to the experience. Its definitely worth a visit.

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Gateway CURRENT CONCIERGE

RELAXATION CENTRAL
The Best Western Premier Vedic Village Spa Resort offers a fine, luxurious stay.

hen one talks about getaways from the City of Joy, Kolkata, a lot of options come to mind. Some of them are loaded with natural beauty and one such place is the Best Western Premier Vedic Village Spa Resort. It is tucked away on the outskirts of Rajarhat, some 20 minutes from the airport. Kolkatas only nature resort is lush and scenic, with varied birdlife offering a delightful touch of romance, tranquility and leisure to offset the hustle of metropolitan life.
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The resorts impressive dcor will charm even visitors who are not tuned in to design... and this begins at the entrance itself. As you move into the property, you will immediately be taken in by the rustic charm of the reception area with its thatched roofingbuilt by local artisansand terracotta murals. The cosy tea lounge, with a serene view of water cascading into a blue lotus pool, will immediately relax you. The accommodation options range from standard double rooms and suites to compact studios.

NAVIGATOR
Address Shikharpur, P.O. Bagu, Rajarhat, Kolkata700135 Reservations 033 6622 9900; 09830025900; email sanjeeva@thevedicvillage.com; web thevedicvillage.com Tariff Starts from `8,500 and goes up to `30,000 for both single and double occupancies. Taxes are extra.

There are also deluxe villas that overlook the lake, independent Earth villas, the Zamindar Suite and Farm Bungalows with a garden or orchard view. For those looking for an exclusive experience, the Aqua Homeswith a swimming pool and garden on the rooftopand Spa Homes, which come with a whirlpool bath, are excellent options. Other facilities include the Sanjeeva Medical Spa, famous for its treatments, and the V-den, an underground leisure centre, and speciality restaurants Yagna, Agni and Bhoomi.

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Gateway INQUISITIVE TRAVELLER

V-Day On The Heights

Everyone chooses different ways to spend the most romantic day of the year with those they love. How about spending V-Day surrounded by the pine forests of Gulmarg and the snow-capped Affarwat peaks while staying at the Khyber Himalayan Resort and Spa? The hotel is offering a 3N4D package which includes accommodation for a couple, complimentary transfers between Srinagar and the resort, a non-alcoholic welcome drink and chocolates on arrival, daily buffet breakfast and buffet dinner at Cloves restaurant, a cake with a personalised message on February 14 and a 30-minute Relaxing Aromachologie Massage for the back and shoulder or feet and shoulder for a couple at the spa. Valid from February 11 to February 17. Price `44,999; For reservations, call 01954 254 666; email info@khyberhotels.com; web khyberhotels.com

Romance & Heritage

The Imperial is offering V-Day stay for a couple in a Heritage room, check-in at 10 am, late check-out on February 15, buffet breakfast on February 15, a welcome bottle of house wine and a fruit platter, Valentines Day dinner and one Imperial Release Massage for 30 minutes at The Imperial Spa. Price `19,999, including taxes; For reservations call 011 411 16303; email reservation@theimperial india.com; web theimperialindia.com

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MORE

The Chinese Way To Entwine Hearts

Celebrating The Day Of Love In Tranquility

Make this Valentine's a memorable one at the beautiful property of Vasundhara Sarovar Premiere, Vayalar, which is located on the tranquil backwaters of Kerala and ensures a dreamy, languid holiday on which you can relax and rejuvenate. The property is offering a 2N3D package for a couple which includes accommodation, a nonalcoholic welcome drink, breakfast, fruit platter, 15% discount on laundry services and first 30 minutes Wi-Fi complimentary, 15% discount thereafter. Valid from February 14 to February 16. Price `18,999; For reservations, call 011 2638 3851; email reservations@sarovarhotels.com; web sarovarhotels.com

Good food is part and parcel of Valentines Day for every couple. Lovers of Chinese cuisine can opt for Royal Chinas special unlimited dimsum lunch which includes unlimited soft drinks and house wine. They also have a Valentine Dinner Special with sparkling wine, red and white house and soft drinks with a fivecourse meal. Address Royal China, 16th Floor, Eros Corporate Tower, Nehru Place; For reservations, call 011 4981 8000/008

The Royal Warmth Of Winter

Love Among The Roses At R The Spa

This Valentines Day, celebrate your love at R the Spa at Radisson Blu Plaza Delhi. It is offering a special couple package which includes a honey and chocolate scrub with olive oil added in the scrub. Besides this, theres a massage with rose and geranium oil for a divine feeling. The relaxing ritual concludes with a strawberry and rose facial in which the skin is hydrated with orange juice followed by exfoliation and massage with strawberry and fresh cream and a final pack of crushed strawberry and fresh rose petals. Price `12,000; For reservations, call 011 2677 9191

Fairmont Jaipurs Winter Escape package offers two nights stay, buffet breakfast and dinner for two at Zoya, along with Happy Hours from 6 pm to 8 pm, 25% discount on spa and laundry services, 15% on the mini-bar and complimentary usage of the pool, gym, steam, sauna and jacuzzi. Valid till March 31; Price `18,000 onwards; For reservations, call 0142 642 0000; email jai.reservations@ fairmont.com

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Gateway INQUISITIVE TRAVELLER

Mountain Highs

The Himalaya always rouses a unique feeling of romance for a couple. Why not go to Naldehra during this season of love? The Chalets Naldehra is offering a special 2N3D package which includes a non-alcoholic welcome drink, a bottle of wine, a plum cake, a lunch on February 14 for the couple and a spa treatment for the couple. Valid from February 13 to February 15. Price `14,990 onwards; For reservations, call 0177 2747 715; email contact@chaletsnaldehra. com; web chaletsnaldehra.com

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Island Of Joy

MORE

This is the season when travelling around India is most pleasant. If you visit the Andaman and Nicobar Islands, the best place to stay is the Sinclairs Port Blair for its offering an attractive package. The 3N4D package includes a welcome drink on arrival, afternoon city tour covering the Cellular Jail, Anthropological Museum, Cottage Industries Emporium and Marine Museum and the light and sound show in the Cellular Jail on Day 1; breakfast and trip to Ross and North Bay islands on Day 2; breakfast and full-day trip to Jolly Buoy/ Red Skin Island on Day 3 and checkout on Day 4 after breakfast. It includes airport transfers, free accommodation for a child below six years, boat tickets and entry tickets. Price `34,740 onwards, including tax; For reservations, call 033 2280 1317/ 09674457869; email sudhakaran@sinclairshotels.com

A Reason To Smile In Coimbatore

Bringing Alive The Rajasthani Traditions

Living the traditional Rajasthani way has a new address in Jaipur as the WelcomHeritage group has recently come up with their latest property, WelcomHeritage Traditional Haveli, at Bani Park, which is a central part of the Pink City. It is in close proximity to the railway station. The 24-room hotel has three suites and all rooms are a remarkable mix of classical and contemporary dcor. The hotel has a large banquet space, an Indian restaurant named Zaika, the Alfresco Bar, the O spa and an outdoor swimming pool on the roof. For reservations, call 011 4603 5529; email sunil@welcomheritagehotels.in

Choice Hotels India has opened a property in Coimbatore under their upscale brand, Clarion. Clarion Hotel Coimbatore has 107 rooms and suites. Facilities include Orchid Bali Spa, space to groove to the music at Zero Degree Bar and an opportunity to enjoy a sumptuous meal at the 24x7 Bytes Restaurant. For reservations, visit choicehotelsindia.com

Sweeten Things Up

A Cup Of Tea With Cake

AmourThe Patio Restaurant, Cafe & Bar is giving Delhiites an opportunity to enjoy tea with their Hi-Tea Platter this season. Theres a combination of sweet and savoury bites to go along with your steaming cups of tea. Choose from a variety of tea with pound cakes, chocolate cake, cookies, sandwiches and shrimp and chicken canaps. Address AmourThe Patio Restaurant, Caf & Bar, 4th Floor, 30, Hauz Khas Village, New Delhi. For reservations, call 09212126687

Surprise her with a candlelight dinner along with free desserts at Market Caf, done up with hearts and balloons. Goodies on offer include sparkling wine, winter mulled wine, sangria, and cocktails and mocktails to accompany scrumptious Mediterranean and Mexican cuisine. Address M - 40, 1st Floor, M Block Market, GK Part II, New Delhi. Price `1,500 plus taxes per couple approximately; For reservations, call 011 4168 2937

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THE LAND KNOWN FOR REVOLUTION AND KNOWLEDGE SEES A NEW SUN RISE

Gangtok h

Bihar
Patna

Jh kh

Dainik Bhaskar launches in Bihar with Patna edition

The group now covers 14 states with 67 Editions.

For any queries, write to: corporatesales@dainikbhaskargroup.com

Anchor
GREAT IDEAS FOR THE TRAVELLER

PHOTOGRAPHY SAMONWAY DUTAGUPTA

The Most Picturesque Forts In India | Unseen Jharkhand | Chhattisgarh Unlimited | The Tranquil Lake | History Comes Alive

Anchor VINEYARD GETAWAY

Sugarland Gem
Akluj, a small town near Pune, offers soothing natural environs, a modern entertainment zone, hilltop temples, a fort, and a peek at village life.
Words & Photography BINDU GOPAL RAO

ocated about 170 km from Pune, this town is a little gemthanks to its salubrious climate, local attractions and the fact that it makes you reconnect with nature. Once you visit Akluj, you come back with fond memories that linger long after you are back home. The highway that leads to Akluj is well-maintained and the pleasant environs make the four-hour journey seem shorter. I would recommend you stop at one of the eateries on the highway and sample a simple yet traditional Maharashtrian thali with Bhakri roti, eggplant curry and spicy groundnut chutney powder. They even serve you hot jalebis sprinkled with dried rose petals! Heading into Akluj, on this rather sweet note, the first thing I noticed was 28

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FEBRUARY 2014

29

the abundance of grapes on either side of the roadespecially since it was the harvest season. The vegetation lends an air of calm and Akluj provides a perfect getaway for a couple seeking to spend quality time together or even a family that wants to bond by simply chilling. There are several small but neat hotels in the town which offer simple accommodation and great food. Located in Solapur district, this town is not just culturally rich but also offers much for the religiously inclined. Apart from sugarcane, cotton, wheat, groundnut and jaggery are the most popular produce and a weekly cattle market is held every Monday and is a local attraction. This sleepy town owes the origin of its name to Goddess Aklai. There is a temple in the town dedicated to the goddess and local legend has it that the idol of the deity was discovered by shepherds in the waters of the Nira river. Naturally, this is an important tourist stop here. What sets this destination apart is the fact that there is really nothing much to do. Therein lies its charm. This is exactly what a holiday should 30

bea time to recharge ones batteries and reconnect with loved ones. The vast expanse of nature here is perfect for long pleasant walks in an unpolluted environmentsomething that all citydwellers nowadays yearn for. I must specifically mention that the sunrise is spectacular. The loveliness of the changing hues of the sky is matched only by the chirping and tweeting of a variety of birds. And if you are taking a walk amidst vineyards in the right season, you will be amazed to see the quantity of grapes that can grow in a field! And, yes, they certainly taste as juicy as they look. Unlike the seasonal grapes, however, there is one thing that you will always see, irrespective of when you are here. And that is an endless trail of lorries, bullock carts, tractor-trailers and even bicycles laden with sugarcane stemsall headed to the Sahakar Maharishi Shankarao MohitePatil Sahakari Sakhar Karkhana, the co-operative sugar factory. My hosts, Arjunsinh Mohite-Patil and his wife, tell me that these are local farmers transporting their produce to the

factory for crushing and conversion to sugar granules. Set up in 1960, the factory employs more than 1,000 people and is on the must-see list of many visitors. When I went into the factory, I felt a rush of sweetness in my throat thanks to the tonnes of sugar that were being processed and packed. It was also my first time in a sugar factory and the process of converting sugarcane to sugar turned out to be fascinating. Incidentally, the Mohite-Patils are pioneers in the co-operative movement in the region and set up Maharashtras first sugar factory. With a crushing capacity of 6,000 tonnes per day, the factory is certainly the pride of Akluj and is driving economic growth in the region. It is quite a sight to see vast numbers of 50-kg bags of sugar stacked in rows to be transported to the rest of the state and country. And thats not all. If you are looking for fun, games and amusement, head to the Sayajiraje Park, a recent local attraction modelled on the lines of an entertainment zone that has something for the entire family. With a water

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(From far left) The beauty of the vineyard at Akluj is comparable with vineyards anywhere in the world; visitors can see emus here. This one peers curiously at the camera.

park, an amusement park, a childrens park, boating and a safari park, there is no dearth of options here. A must-see here is the Mamacha Wada (meaning maternal uncles house), a display of a traditional Maharashtrian house. The entire model village recreates life in rural Maharashtra and is ideal for both children and adults to experience village life first-hand. Subject to weather conditions, you can even take an ATV ride on the track around the park for a bit of speed, excitement and adventure. Kids will also enjoy the remote-controlled speedboat here. The water rides, complete with a slide, a wave pool and even a rain dance, ensure that you have a whale of a time, literally. A large lake in which boats of different capacities are available for boating is a popular option with families. A dense forest surrounds the lake and is home to seasonal birds, while the waterfall adjacent to the lake makes for an enchanting sight. If you are looking to take an amazing souvenir back home, check out the Sayajiraje Shoppe that offers a range of gifts like handicraft articles, home dcor 31

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(Left & right) At the Akluj Fort, you can see its historical importance; panels highlighting important events in Shivaji's life through relief murals

items, leather bags and purses, perfumes and quality chocolates, apart from an interesting collection of toys. The town also has a host of temples located in picturesque locations that afford a sense of serenity like nowhere else. The Parvati Mandir welcomes you with a grand entrance gate, an imposing statue of Shivaji Maharaj and a beautifully landscaped garden featuring a Japanese pagoda. The blissful surroundings give you a birds-eye view of Akluj and the inner sanctum of the temple, which houses marble idols of Lord Shiva and Goddess Uma. However, two other prominent temple complexes, devoted to Ganesha and Shiva, erected on the top of a hill, are my personal top picks. Set amidst a sprawling mango farm, the Ganesha temple also has a small emu enclosure attached to it. I was told that at one time there were over 50 emus housed here but most have been released and only a few are left now. The adjoining Shiva temple also has an interesting story. While construction was going on, the masons found a stone 32

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resembling a shivling and this prompted the building of a temple here. In fact, the original shivling is in the basement of the Shiva temple which also has a library devoted to religious texts. My host told me that the entire property belongs to his family and they acquired it at a very low price. His mother had said that something must be done to benefit the people, as a way of thanking God. Her remark resulted in the building of the two temple complexes. When in Maharashtra, it is hard to escape Shivaji and Shivshrushti is a great place to learn about the life and times of the Maratha leader. Laser shows are held every day in the morning and night at this venue. Built by Yadav king Raja Singhan in the 13th century, the Akluj Fort, Shivshrusthi, has been restored through a unique project initiated by the Maharashtra Tourism Development Corporation (MTDC). The project has been developed over a restored fort of six acres and houses a collection of 172 sculptures of prominent personalities

NAVIGATOR
Reach Akluj By Air Solapur airport (120 km) is the nearest. Pune is a more convenient airport, 175 km away. By Rail Kurduvadi Junction, 50 km away, is the nearest railway station. By Road Mumbai is 261 km away and Pune is 169 km away. Akluj is easily accessible by road from both these cities in all possible ways. The place is also wellconnected to all towns and cities of the state through government-run and private buses along with cabs available for hire.

of the era of Shivaji. It also has a collection of 21 replica panels, explaining important events in Shivajis life through sculptures. The replica panels have been made of fibreglass, and each and every sculpture and scene depicted in the project has been made under the guidance of renowned historian Babasaheb Purandare. A tour around this fort is unique simply because the life-size sculptures are very real. Given natures bounty here, make sure you explore every aspect. I was lucky to have lunch at the Syrah hilltop amidst the picturesque settings of the Garwad vineyards. This 15-minute drive uphill on a bumpy road that only an SUV can manage was memorable not just for the food but also for the views of the valley below. The Lavani Mahotsav, held once a year in December or January to promote the culture of Maharashtra, is quite different, compared to festivals in other parts of the state, and is a must-visit. Akluj is your perfect rustic holiday that will leave you asking for more. 33

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Anchor LIVING HISTORY

DISCOVER INDIA TRAVELS TO THE TOP

POEMS IN STONE
Theres more to Indias citadel masterpieces than their history. They evoke a multitude of emotions that surface each time you visit them... again.
Words DIVYA DUGAR

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The Red Fort in the national capital is one of the most well preserved forts in the country. Tourists from all over the world visit the fort time and again for its breathtaking architecture

orts are among Indias most valuable architectural and cultural heritage. They stand today as they have for centuries, offering an opportunity to re-live history by taking a walk back in time. Replete with ramparts, gates, moats, tunnels, stables and watch towers in differing stages of preservation, they remain landmarks in the history of our country, with the air of bygone eras still clinging to them. Indias various forts bear testimony to the glory of different dynasties, and of wars fought over territory, while some are majestic architectural marvels. We take you to 26 of the most significant forts across the country.
1. AGRA FORT (Uttar Pradesh) This red sandstone fort began construction in 1565 under Emperor Akbar. Shah Jahan added many structures within and was later imprisoned there until death by his son. The fort holds fine architectural sights, such as the Diwan-i-Am, Nagina Masjid, Diwan-i-Khas and Jehangir Palace and the view of the Taj Mahal from it is not to be missed. Watch the various moods of the Taj Mahal from the Oberoi Amarvilas, one of the best places to stay in Agra. Navigator The best option is to fly to Delhi. Take the New Delhi-Bhopal Shatabdi Express (12002), departing New Delhi at 6 am and arriving in Agra at 8.06 am. Delhi to Agra (220 km) takes three hours. 2. AMBER FORT (Rajasthan) No fortress compares with the 16th-century Amber Fort built by Raja Man Singh I. Overlooking the beautiful floating garden in the Maota Lake, it has a four-level layout punctuated by a series of gates. Its most spectacular part is the Sheesh Mahal or Mirror Palace. Dont miss the Diwan-iAm or Public Audience Hall with its symmetry of columns. You can view Jaigarh fortsituated right above Amber Fort. Walk around the back lanes of Amber Fort, with step wells, temples and the Anokhi museum of hand printing. Eat at a beautiful restaurant, 1135 AD, which has canopies, chandeliers and mirrored walls. Navigator There are flights from most cities to Jaipur. Take the New Delhi-Ajmer Shatabdi Express (12015), departing New Delhi at 6.05 am and arriving in Jaipur at 10.35 am. New Delhi to Jaipur (280 km) takes about five hours by road. 36 3. BHANGARH FORT (Rajasthan) On the edge of the Sariska National Park stand the historical ruins of Bhangarh, built by King Madho Singh in the 17th century. Extremely well preserved, the premises of the fort are dotted with temples, markets, water tanks and havelis. According to legend, the entire city was destroyed overnight by the curse of a tantric who was rejected by Rani Roopmati. Navigator Fly to Jaipur or to New Delhi. Take the New Delhi-Ajmer Shatabdi Express (12015), departing New Delhi at 6.05 am and arriving in Alwar at 8.00 am. Alwar to Bhangarh is 80 km by road; Jaipur to Bhangarh is 78 km; and from New Delhi it is 240 km. 4. BUNDI FORT (Rajasthan) The origins of Bundi can be traced to the 12th century. A steep climb brings one to the entrance of Bundi Palace with a carved door; inside are galleries, courtyards and painted rooms. It requires several hours if not a full day to grasp the magnitude of the art. It is best to stay at Haveli Braj Bhushanjee, a heritage property. Navigator Jaipur airport is the nearest. Take the Goa Sampark Kranti Express (12450), departing New Delhi at 7.25 am and arriving in Kota at 1.10 pm. Delhi to Bundi (475 km) takes eight to nine hours by road. Bundi to Jaipur (210 km) takes four hours.
(Above & below) The temple of Lord Shiva inside the Ahilya Fort in Maheshwar has its unique beauty which is hard to miss; the Diwan-i-Khas with its garden inside Agra Fort

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So far as I am able to judge, nothing has been left undone, either by man or nature, to make India the most extraordinary country that the sun visits on his rounds. Nothing seems to have been forgotten, nothing overlooked.
MARK TWAIN, AUTHOR

5. CHAPORA FORT (Goa) Made famous by Bollywood movie Dil Chahta Hai, Chapora Fort was built in 1717 by Goas viceroy to protect Bardez from the Marathas. At the northern tip of Vagator, the ruins of the fort tower over Chapora river and the beach. Afterwards, kayak the Chapora or go on a cruise. Navigator All major cities have direct flights to Goa. Take the Dadar-Madgaon Jan Shatabdi Express (12051), departing Mumbai at 5.25 am and arriving in Madgaon at 2.10 pm. Mumbai to Goa (600 km) takes nine to 10 hours by road. 6. CHITTORGARH FORT (Rajasthan) Chittorgarh Fort is one of Rajasthans oldest forts, strewn with innumerable architectural sightsRana Kumbha and Padminis palace, Surajpol, the victory tower and the
(Clockwise from bottom left) The grandness of Bundi Palace is a treat for any heritage-lovers eyes; Amber Fort in Jaipur is never missed out by a tourist visiting the city; the view of the Vagator beach and the sea from the ruins of Chapora Fort in Goa is amazing

Neelkanth Mahadev Jain temple. It makes for a great day trip from Udaipur. Navigator Take a direct flight from New Delhi or Mumbai to Udaipur. Take the Mewar Express (12963), departing Delhi at 7 pm and arriving in Udaipur at 7 am. It is 115 km from Udaipur and takes about two hours by road. 7. DANSBORG FORT (Tamil Nadu) Constructed in 1620, it is one of the biggest forts built by the Danes, after Kronborg, complete with private quarters, warehouse and cannons. The Nayaks of Thanjavur ruled Tranquebar and a deal was struck between the king, Vijaya Raghunatha, and the Danish Admiral, Ove Gjedde. The Danes used the port for trading until the early 17th century. Stay at the sea-facing The Bungalow hotel. Walk around the village and visit the New Jerusalem church, built in 1718. Navigator Chennai is the closest airport to Tranquebar. Tranquebar town is 280 km from Chennai and 120 km from Puducherry by road. 39

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40

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The Chittorgarh Fort is the largest in India. It was ruled by the Guhilots, Sisodias, and Suryavanshis, until it was seized by Emperor Akbar in 1567, but it was abandoned a year later

If there is one place on the face of earth where all the dreams of living men have found a home

8. DAULATABAD FORT (Maharashtra) Daulatabads spectacular 12th-century fort sits atop a 650-ft hill and was once the capital of the Tughlaq dynasty, under Muhammad bin Tughlaq. Inside the fort are the Chand Minar, the second tallest tower in India after Delhis Qutub Minar, and the Chini Mahal. It takes close to 600 steps to reach the top, but the view of the Deccan plateau is worth it. Navigator There are flights to Aurangabad from Mumbai and Delhi. Take the Tapovan Express (17617), departing Mumbai at 6.10 am and arriving in Aurangabad at 1.15 pm. From Pune it is 235 km and from Mumbai it is 365 km by road. 9. DINDIGUAL FORT (Tamil Nadu) Dindigual is famous for its hill fort, Dindigul Malai Kottai. Built in 1605 by the Madurai Nayaks, it was later under 42

Tipu Sultan and held strategic importance during the Carnatic Wars. Also visit the Tadikombu temple, just eight kilometres from Dindigual town, which has exquisitely carved sculptures. Navigator The nearest airport is Madurai from where Dindigual is 60 km. Take the Chennai Central-Palani Express (16001), departing Chennai at 9 pm and arriving in Dindigual at 5.50 am. Chennai to Dindigual (430 km) takes about six hours by road. 10. GINGEE FORT (Tamil Nadu) Perched atop three hills, Rajgiri, Krishnagiri and Chandrayan Durg in Villupuram district, Gingee is one of the most important forts in Tamil Nadu. Visit in the early morning before it gets hot and see its halls, tanks and temples.

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from the very earliest days when man began the dream of existence, it is India!
ROMAIN ROLLAND, FRENCH SCHOLAR

(Clockwise from top left) Gingee Fort is so wellfortified that it was called the Troy of the East by the British; the Golconda Fort was known for its storage of diamonds; Gwalior Fort built by Raja Man Singh Tomar encloses three temples and six palaces

Navigator The nearest airport is Chennai. Take the Chennai Egmore-Guruvayur Express (16127) to Tindivanam (about an hour-and-a-half) and then go to Gingee Fort (28 km). Gingee is 160 km from Chennai and 250 km from Bengaluru by road. 11. GOLCONDA FORT (Andhra Pradesh) Golconda was initially a mud fortress built by the Kakatiyas (1150-1323). It gained power in the 16th century under the

Qutub Shahis. After many unsuccessful attempts, Aurangzeb captured it in 1687; its ruins are testimony to the plunder that followed. To enjoy the fort, use imagination and a guide. It is easy to get lost in this 11-km complex. Dont miss the beautifully carved tombs of the Qutub Shahis, not far from the fort. Navigator There are direct flights to Hyderabad from all the metros. Take the Hussain Sagar SF Express (12701), departing Mumbai at 9.50 pm and arriving in Hyderabad at 12.10 pm. Golconda Fort is 12 km from Hyderabad and it takes half an hour. 12. GWALIOR FORT (Madhya Pradesh) Construction of Gwalior Fort began around AD 525 but it rose to prominence and power with the Rajput Tomar 43

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In the great books of India, an empire spoke to us, nothing small or unworthy, but large, serene, consistent, the voice of an old intelligence, which in another age and climate had pondered and thus disposed of the questions that exercise us.
RALPH WALDO EMERSON, POET

dynasty. It is one of Indias finest forts with intricate craftsmanship. It includes two temples, the Saas-Bahu complex and the Teli ka Mandir. It is worth walking down from the fort complex from the Urwahi gate, which is home to 22 Jain rock sculptures from the 15th century. Navigator Take the New Delhi-Bhopal Shatabdi Express (12002), departing New Delhi at 6 am and arriving in Gwalior at 9.25 am. Delhi to Gwalior (350 km) takes five to six hours by road. 13. JAISALMER FORT (Rajasthan) Dating to the 12th century, Jaisalmer Fort rises out of the Thar desert framed by turrets and towers. It is a labyrinth of lanes, courtyards, temples and palaces. Start walking from Dashera chowk, flanked by Raj Palace, and then move around the citadel, inhabited by about 3,000 people. The fort is dotted with eateries and guesthouses, but to experience life within the fort stay at Garh Jaisal Haveli Hotel. Navigator There are direct flights from Delhi and Mumbai to Jodhpur. Take the Jaisalmer Express (14659), departing Delhi at 5 pm and arriving in Jaisalmer at 11.15 am. Jodhpur to Jaisalmer (285 km) takes about five hours by road. 44

14. JANJIRA FORT (Maharashtra) The unconquerable 350-year-old Janjira Fort was occupied by the Siddis, originally from Habeesh (Abyssinia), in Africa. One of our best marine forts, it towers 90 feet above the sea. It took 22 years to build and was occupied until 1972. Its three massive cannons, Kala Bangdi, Chavri and Landa Kasam, can still be seen. Also visit Padmadurg Fort, built by Shivajis son, Sambaji, in the 17th century. Navigator The best option is to fly to Mumbai or Pune. Take the August Kranti Rajdhani Express (12954), departing New Delhi at 4.55 pm and arriving in Mumbai at 10 am. Mumbai to Murud Janjira is 150 km by road and from Pune it is 190 km. 15. JUNAGARH FORT (Rajasthan) A visually stunning fort, Junagarh was built between 1589 and 1593 by Raja Rai Singh. It is a collection of palaces, the best of which are Anup Mahal, Karan Mahal and Phool
(Left & right) The Jaisalmer Fort, made of yellow sandstone, is also known as the Golden Fort; tourists love visiting the Kangra Fort because of the breathtaking views of the valley it offers

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The Vindhya Ranges provided enough natural protection to Mandu Fort, the reason it was the fort capital of the Parmar rulers of Malwa

The Sanskrit language, whatever be its antiquity, is of wonderful structure, more perfect than the

Mahal, which are architectural gems. It also houses a museum of World War I aircraft and weaponry. Navigator The nearest airport is at Jodhpur, which has direct flights from New Delhi and Mumbai. Take the Delhi Sarai Rohilla-Bikaner Intercity Express (22472), departing Delhis Sarai Rohilla at 8.40 am and arriving in Bikaner at 4.40 pm. Bikaner is 316 km from Jaipur, 240 km from Jodhpur and 330 km from Jaisalmer by road. 16. KANGRA FORT (Himachal Pradesh) Located 20 km from Dharamsala is Kangra Fort, once belonging to the Katoch kings of Kangra. It has had a violent historyGhazni, the Tughlaks and the Mughals attacked it. Though its in a state of ruin due to the 1905 earthquake, the views are spectacular. You can see the Banganga-Manjhi confluence. Also visit the museum housing miniature paintings from the Kangra School and ancient rock statues. Navigator Fly to Dharamsala from Delhi. Take the Dauladhar Express (14035), departing Delhi at 10.45 pm and arriving in Pathankot at 8.20 am. Pathankot to Kangra is 100 km, and from New Delhi it is about 460 km by road. 48

17. KISHANGARH FORT (Rajasthan) Maharaja Roop Singh constructed Kishangarh Fort in the 1650sa cupola-clad structure dotted with courtyards and a latticed palace complex. Dont miss the murals, including the paintings of Bani Thani, the royal mistress, who is the icon of the Kishangarh School of painting. Stay in the beautiful Phool Mahal hotel, framed by the Gundalao Lake. Navigator Most cities have direct flights to Jaipur. Take the New Delhi-Ajmer Shatabdi Express (12015), departing New Delhi at 6.05 am and arriving in Jaipur at 10.35 am. Jaipur to Kishangarh (100 km) takes a little over an hour by road. 18. KUMBALGARH FORT (Rajasthan) Kumbalgarh Fort is surrounded by forests and the Aravalli hills. It was built around 1443 by the great warrior ruler, Rana Kumbha. Its highlight is the 36-km wall, akin to the Great Wall of China. A steep climb to the top of the fort brings one to Badal Mahal, which offers views of the great wall, wide enough for eight horsemen to ride abreast. The best place to stay is The Aodhi hotel, boasting a vantage view of the fort. Visit the surrounding Kumbalgarh Wildlife Sanctuary.

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Greek, more copious than the Latin and more exquisitely refined than either.
SIR WILLIAM JONES, ENGLISH SCHOLAR

(Both pictures above) The Mehrangarh Fort combines the brute power of stone with the finesse of intricate craftmanship

Navigator There are direct flights from New Delhi and Mumbai to Udaipur. Take the Mewar Express (12963), departing Delhi at 7 pm and arriving in Udaipur at 7 am. Udaipur to Kumbalgarh (110 km) takes about two hours by road. 19. MANDU FORT (Madhya Pradesh) The hilltop fort of Mandu dates to the 10th century. Mandu was originally called Mandapa Durg or fort with pillared halls. The most famous buildings are the Jahaz Mahal (home to Ghiyasuddins 15,000-strong harem), Hindola Mahal, Rupamatis Pavilion and the Jama Masjid, which were erected between 1401 and 1529. The city of Mandu springs to life during the monsoon. Navigator There are direct flights from Delhi and Mumbai to Indore. Take the Pune-Indore Express (19311), departing Mumbai at 8.05 pm and arriving in Indore at 9.50 am. Indore to Mandu (98 km) takes over two hours.

20. MEHRANGARH FORT (Rajasthan) Atop a cliff, Mehrangarh Fort has a vantage view of Jodhpur city. Called the work of angels, fairies and giants by Rudyard Kipling, it is a maze of courtyards and various sections, added by 17 generations since 1459. The Rajasthan International Folk Festival is held every October here. Navigator There are direct flights from Delhi and Mumbai to Jodhpur. Take the Mandore Express (12461), departing New Delhi at 9.15 pm and arriving Jodhpur at 7.15 am. 21. PALAKKAD FORT (Kerala) Palakkad Fort, also known as Tipu's Fort, was built in 1766 by Haider Ali to improve relations between Palakkad and Coimbatore. It is well preserved and has a childrens park and a small museum. One can also visit the 500-year-old Jain temple on the bank of the Kalpathy. Navigator The nearest airport is Coimbatore (60 km). Take the Chennai Alappuzha (Alleppey) Express (16041), departing Chennai at 8.45 pm and arriving in Palakkad at 5.20 am. Chennai to Palakkad (550 km) takes about nine hours by road. Kochi to Palakkad is 138 km. 49

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India was the mother of our race and Sanskrit the mother of Europes languages, Mother India

22. QUILA MUBARAK (Punjab) Initially a mud fortress built by Baba Ala Singh, founder of the Patiala dynasty in 1763, the Quila Mubarak was reconstructed in brick. The Darbar hall houses cannons, swords, shields, and daggers of Guru Gobind Singh. Stay in the colonnaded Baradari Palace, built around 1876, and now a heritage hotel. Visit Adalat Bazaar which sells parandhi for the hair and Punjabi juttis. Navigator Fly to Chandigarh, from where Patiala is an hours drive.Take the Amritsar Express (11057), departing New Delhi at 4.30 am and arriving in Patiala at 10.30 am. Delhi to Patiala (250 km) takes four to five hours by road. 23. RANTHAMBORE FORT (Madhya Pradesh) The Ranthambore National Park has one of Indias most majestic hill forts, built in AD 944. Emperor Akbar stayed here around 1558 and later gifted it to the royal family of Jaipur. It is better not to dawdle after sunset, as leopards 50

stroll around the periphery. On festival days, pilgrims throng the Ganesha temple. Navigator Most cities have a direct flight to Jaipur. The nearest station is Sawai Madhopur. Take the Golden Temple Mail (12904), departing Delhis Hazrat Nizamuddin at 7.40 am and arriving in Sawai Madhopur at 12.55 pm. Jaipur to Ranthambore (180 km) takes about three hours by road; Delhi-Ranthambore (365 km) takes about six hours. 24. RED FORT (Delhi) Built by Emperor Shah Jahan, the Red Fort was home to the Mughals for over 200 years. A red sandstone and marble complex, it houses some of the finest architectural splendour we have. Start from Lahori Gate, moving towards the Diwan-i-Am, and then the Diwan-i-Khas (Hall of Private Audience), which is inscribed with a famous couplet by Persian poet Amir Khusro: If there is a paradise on earth, It is this, it is this, it is this.' Afterwards, walk around the

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is in many ways the mother of us all.

W I L L I A M D U R A N T, W R I T E R , H I S T O R I A N & P H I L O S O P H E R

(Clockwise from top left) Vellore Fort was once guarded by 10,000 crocodiles in its deep moat, waiting to grab any intruder; the exterior view of the Red Fort; the Quila Mubarak boasts of some fine Sikh architecture

Chennai-Bangalore AC Double Decker Express (22625), departing Chennai at 7.25 am and arriving at Katpadi Junction at 9.20 am. Bengaluru to Vellore is 215 km by road, while Chennai-Vellore is 140 km. 26. ZORAWAR FORT (Jammu & Kashmir) Zorawar Fort, constructed in 1836 by Thanedar Magna on the orders of Wazir Zorawar Singh, is now under the Indian army. But tourists can visit the fort and museum dedicated to the Dogra warrior. To avoid crowds, visit Leh in winter. You will also see the best monastery festivals such as Dosmoche in February. Navigator Fly to Leh from New Delhi. Manali to Leh (470 km) takes about 14-15 hours by a long journey on road. The route is open from June to September. Srinagar to Leh is 415 km and takes about 10 hours. The road is open from June to November. 51

walled city of Shahjahanabad, with mosques and havelis. Navigator There are direct flights from almost all major airports and a central railway line. 25. VELLORE FORT (Tamil Nadu) Once the headquarters of the mighty Vijayanagara empire, this 16th-century fort in Vellore city was also the site of a rebellion against the British in 1806. Considered one of the finest military forts in South India, it is made with heavy granite stone. Its moat had 10,000 crocodiles. The fort premises house a temple, mosque and church. Navigator The best option is to fly to Chennai. Take the

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Anchor PRISTINE PARADISE

THE GOOD EARTH

Jharkhand offers canopied forest trails, clear rivers and green pastures to soothe urban travellers.
Words & Photography ABHISHEK GUPTA

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THE SALT OF THE EARTH

The robust faces of the Adivasis, who still live in primordial style alongside the Damodar river, truly belong to the land. Their homes are swept with a blend of cow dung, mud and paddy husk, which provides a play of light in a wonderful Chiaroscuro when the sunlight strikes it. Their rustic lifestyle moulds their strong limbs and torsos and men, women and children all seem naturally limber. Unaware of the outside world, they live in harmony with nature and its diurnal rhythms, bereft of modern amenities.

54

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BOUNDLESS ELEMENTS
A 40-km drive from Dhanbad takes us onto the Delhi Kolkata highway, with lush green on both sides. We begin to feel the rejuvenating freshness that Jharkhand offers. Topchanchi is a popular destination for locals for its British-built reservoir and a small wildlife sanctuary. But, beyond it, the dense forests witness a mega migration by elephants each year. Following spread Dassam means 10 and this is how Dassam Falls get their namefrom the 10 streams of water plunging together in a milky cascade. Named by the local Mundaris of Taimara village, the Falls occur on the Kanchi, a tributary of the Subarnarekha, and fall from 144 feet. They are a 40-km drive on the Jamshedpur highway (NH33).

56

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NAVIGATOR
Reach River Barakar The river is 30 km from Dhanbad on NH32 towards Giridih. NH32 connects with NH2 (KolkataDelhi highway). One can stop at Ludhuria for tea. From Ludhuria, take the road towards the KaramdahaBarakar bridge. Stay The nearest place to stay is in Dhanbad (Hotel Sushant International, Skylark). If you want to stay near the river, make sure you carry a tent or you can also request locals for accommodation. Reach Dhanbad For going to all these places, it is best to reach Dhanbad by rail or air and then do the rest of the journey by road. By Air Ranchi (171 km) is the nearest airport and has flights from all over India. By Rail Dhanbads station is well-connected to all major places in the country.

SERENE VISTAS
The Karamdaha is a new bridge over the Damodar, and its surroundings are still undiscovered by even intrepid travellers. Jharkhands minerals colours its soil, while the villages are still spared of plastic waste. The river water is so clean that the riverbed is visible during summer and winter.

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Anchor TRANQUILITY LAKE

SACRED DEPTHS
It was cold and windy, the fire took two hours to get going,

the melted snow made the trail dangerously slippery but Prashar Lakes beauty and serenity were ample rewards.
Words & Photography SAMONWAY DUTTAGUPTA
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The first sight of fresh snow with the final destination hidden right behind the curve made the last bit of the journey to the lake even more exciting

t was in the wee hours that I woke up with a start as my head hit the glass window of the Manali-bound Volvo. We were an hour away from Mandi, but the winding roads of the hills had started to make their presence felt. I wiped the cold, watery moisture from the window for a view which any nature-lover would love to wake up to every morning. While thick fog had settled on the river flowing past, the first light of the sun illumined a golden mountain peak. After two years of planning, I was finally en route to Prashar Lake with my friend, Saptarshi. As the bus dropped us at the Mandi ISBT around 6.30 am, we were greeted by a sharp fall in temperature and teeth-chattering wind. My woollens were out of my backpack in no time. We spent an hour at the bus depot, buying supplies and figuring out how to complete the rest of the journey. 64

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Prashar Lake is 50 km from Mandi. We had a choice of waiting a while and taking a local bus which would drop us at Baggi, 20 km from Prashar Lake by road and eight kilometres if one treks through the wilds. We had decided to take the trail on the way back. So we hired a cab from the bus terminus and started our journey. Five kilometres away from our destination, we got our first sight of snow. Fresh snow! We were lucky to reach on a day when the place received the seasons first snowfall. But, as they say, for all good things, one has to pay a price. The car could not make it for more than two kilometres, thanks to the slippery road. The trek was arduous. A 12-kg backpack, a three-kg camera around my neck, a bag of five one-

litre water bottles in one hand and a charcoal stove in the other. Saptarshi was carrying a similar load. We were planning to spend two nights at natures mercy, after all. So our first glimpse of Prashar Lake was truly hardearned. The lake, which is known for its mystery island in the middle which changes its position from time to time, shone before us. The snowfall had daubed it with white and greenish yellow as spells of dry grass and wet marshland streaked the landscape. The lake lies diagonally right of the small gateway leading into the area. Look to the left and you have two ranges one after the otherthe Pir Panjal Range on the extreme left and the Dhauladhar Range on the right. But soon pangs of hunger and a parched throat made me 65

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turn my gaze to the dhaba near the entrance. A spell of extended family, is part of the temple trust. They live in a strong sunshine and the bone-piercing wind chill reminded cluster of three or four buildings adjoining the main temple. me of the rough outdoors awaiting me as I moved on from Charmed and distracted by all this, we had forgotten the wet grass to the dry rocks laid out near the dhaba. We how unpredictable the weather can be in the mountains. At got a warm welcome from the shopowner as we stepped over 9,000 ft, as happens, the clear blue sky darkened with inside the stone and wood hut. The outdoor seating arrangeclouds and strong winds within minutes. We knew we had ment had wooden tables and benches. The shelter overhead to pitch our tent as soon as possible. Thankfully, we didnt was cosy, but the sun outside provided much-needed comtake much time to decide the right spot as we had already fort. A hot cup of adrak-waali chai and a grand view of the done a quick survey and singled out a couple of options. lake made me feel I was sitting in a writers haven. After The outdoors started challenging us the moment we tea, it was time for a hot bowl of started pitching the tent. The lip-smacking noodles. Thats strong winds made it extremely something thats comforting not difficult. It took a bit longer than only when you are starving but usual. And the funny part is that also when its cold! the weather settled just as it was Time seemed to have slowed. done. It was already late afterNo deadlines, no phone calls, no noon and by the time we had set high-end gadgets with their up the camp area, it was dark. weak battery lives to worry Now it was time for the real about. It was just two friends hard work. It took two hours just with raw nature for company. We to get the fire going to cook. We took a stroll around the lake. were carrying a charcoal stove and The water looks green from a considering it was windy and the distance during this time of the temperature sub-zero, it was a (Clockwise) Jeevan was more of a friend and guide than year but, as we went closer, the herculean task to get all the charjust a priest; the peaks kept smiling at us as we were blessed with clear skies throughout; the entire area true colours became visible. coal to start burning properly. We looked magical when viewed from higher ground; the tea Even though it has shades of had covered the top of the burner shop provided a centre for amiable company green due to the presence of and were blowing in through the vegetation, the water also has a makeshift funnel that we made lot of mud in it which makes most of it brown. And there out of a roll of foil paper. We were taking breaks now and was a heavy population of fish. then. After blowing for two hours, we were too tired to Steps led us to the Prashar Rishi temple adjacent to the think of cooking a proper dinner. We prepared some Maggi lake. The lake is, after all, a sacred one and has a long histoand were quite happy with it. ry of faith attached to it. I was keen to learn the story but Then, settling into the tent took another hour. First we we had two days in hand. We paid homage to the idol of had to spread the sleeping bags and get all our belongings Sage Prashar after whom the lake is named. It was a chalwithin the shelter of the tent to save them from the frozen lenge to take off our shoes and walk barefoot on the fresh dew drops settling all around. Then it was time to battle the snow on the way to the inner core of the temple. coldI began shivering within a few minutes of lying down. I had a pleasant interaction with Jeevan, the young priest After layering up with a thermal inner, sweater, T-shirt, a of the temple, from whom I sought formal permission to thick jacket, a skull cap and woollen socks, I went into the camp at the lake premises. The priest, along with his sleeping bag once again. This time, I was comfortable. 66

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NAVIGATOR
Reach Prashar Lake Prashar Lake is hidden away high up in the mountains, far from the main road. In order to reach the place, one needs to get to Mandi first. The lake is 50 km by road from there. Buses are available till Baggi or even till the PWD Guest House near the lake. For a one-way trip, a cab charges anywhere between `1,500 and `2,000. By Air Bhuntar (59 km) is the nearest airport. Air India has a flight from Delhi which departs at 6.30 am and arrives at 7.50 am. By Rail Kiratpur (125 km) is the nearest railway station. Cabs from Kiratpur to Mandi charge around `2,500 for a one-way trip. By Road The best way to reach Prashar Lake is by road. Comfortable Volvo buses are available from New Delhi to Mandi.

THINGS TO DO
If you have enough time, go higher up for a trek to Tunga Mata, 12 km away. It is an uphill trek through the mountain ridge at the back of the lake. The Kamru Nag Lake is another great option. The trek starts at Rohanda which is 60 km from Mandi. One can club this along with Prashar Lake, provided theres enough time.

When camping, I always wake up early. And, greeted by one of the most sumptuous and satisfying winter meals a clear sky, we witnessed a most beautiful sunrise over the I have ever had. wide range of peaks in the distance. The morning was silent Post-lunch, it was time for another hike to the other side with swooshes of a heavy wind dishevelling our hair and of the hill, a cup of evening tea and some snacks at the chilling our ears. As we stood there, taking in a moment of dhaba. The last night of the trip was drawing close. But then beauty which comes only a few times in a lifetime, I wasnt we remembered that the priest had invited us for the aware for a while that my eyes were watery with the deepevening puja as well. Afterwards, he invited us to his little est feelings of joy, gratitude and freedom. room behind the temple. While he treated us to some excelAfter a long silence, the sun shone brightly and we felt lent tea, he told us the story behind Prashar Lake. the first pangs of hunger. But we decided to visit the temple Its a local belief that the lake was made by one strike of first and got the opportunity of Prashar Rishis weapon and its witnessing the morning aarti the place where he meditated for which is generally not permitted the last time before leaving his to outsiders. Thanks to the corbody. The lake is said to be so diality we had established with deep that none till now has been the priest, we were even allowed able to measure it. Legend also entry inside the inner core of the says the temple was built in the temple where lies 13th century by a baby from a the idol and burial stone of single tree. Prashar Rishi. Stories can serve to bond. We The previous night, we had talked of legends of the past, added a layer of charcoal over the which was followed by conversa(Clockwise from left) Viewing the only guest house from a burning coals and covered it all tions on subjects far and wide. distance makes the place seem secluded and exotic; with foil paper. Now, all we needBut we needed to get back to the chilling out in the tent was as much fun as any of the other experiences. It made us feel even closer to ed to do was blow on it a bit to campsite, have dinner and sleep. Naturea cosy shelter amidst open spaces; it was a cook our breakfast of eggs, Maggi The night was indeed a bit moment of unbounded joy when I was welcomed by a and toast. Then we set out for a flock of sheep swarming past with their smiling shepherd stretched with the conversation, hike around the place. And, while the campfire and the dinner but it we were at it, we went to the nearby woods, a few hundred was worth it as we retired to sleep with a very happy feeling. metres uphill, and got some twigs and broken branches for a The next morning brought another great day of blue campfire at night. skies, a clear sunrise and beautiful views. This was followed It was a beautiful forest but finding dry, broken branches by the soothing sight of a herd of sheep walking past the and twigs was hard work yet quite adventurous. But, after rolling meadows. After tea and breakfast, we packed. The collecting the wood, we didnt have anything to carry it back poignancy of leaving this heavenly place was compensated in. The only option was to use Saptarshis jacket like a sack by a heavy dose of adventure during the trek down to Baggi. by tying the sleeves. Being an avid trekker, I am used to steep mountain After the hike, it was time to get lunch ready. The menu trails, which are more difficult to tackle while descending. was dal, rice and chicken. And what we had for cooking But the melting snow had led to mud, making the descent utensils was a regular saucepan and only turmeric powder, very difficult. As we slipped and slid, the other challenge oil and salt in the name of spices. Dal took an hour to cook, was to navigate properly because we neither had a guide nor rice another hour. But the real fun was in preparing the was there a single human visible on that lonely trail. It took chicken. We marinated it in some oil, salt and turmeric powus much longer than we had expected and when we reached der, wrapped it in foil with holes for the heat to pass Baggi, we had missed the days bus. However, a shopkeeper through, and simply placed it on the stove directly. It was gave us a ride in his mini-truck to Mandi.
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In Association With Presents

Happy Baby & Mom Show

Child, in association with Pigeon, organized a fun-lled evening with the Happy Baby & Mom Show on December 24, 2013 at the High Street Phoenix mall, Lower Parel, Mumbai. As part of the event, mothers were invited with their children to walk the ramp, share their happy motherhood memory, showcase a talent with their kids, and answer questions posed by our esteemed panel of judges on parenting. All the participants received goody bags worth Rs. 1,500 each with babycare and beauty products from Pigeon & Palmers. The winners were awarded a 6-month subscription of Child magazine along with goody bags worth Rs. 2,000 each. The event was judged by Ms. Geetika Sasan Bhandari (Child Editor), Dr. Pradnya Gadgil (Cunsultant - Paediatric Neurologist, Kokilaben Dhirubhai Ambani Hospital) and Smita Bansal (renowned TV Actress). The event helped us bring smiles to many mothers and babies! Visit Childs Facebook page for more pictures (https://www.facebook.com/ childmagazine).
A mother-daughter duo showcasing their dancing talent A chic mom walking with her best accessoryher baby

The show in Mumbai was a super success, much like the previous one in Delhi.
Our talented participant gets groovy A new mom with her little one

Ms. Geetika Sasan Bhandari and Dr. Pradnya Gadgil our esteemed judges, with participants and winners

Winners with judges Smita Bansal, Dr. Gadgil and the chief photographer from Chubby Clicks

The participants check out their goody bags from Pigeon and Palmers

A young one engrossed in playing with a toy at the Fisher-Price play zone

A stylish mother-daughter duo sashay down the ramp

Ms. Anu Bindra and Ms. Vanika Mahajan, from Fisher-Price and Pigeon, respectively

Fisher-Price toys and products on display

Chhattisgarh
THE QUINTESSENTIAL EXPERIENCE

In Association With

I N D I A S F I R S T T R AV E L M A G A Z I N E

A UNIQUELY INDIAN EXPERIENCE

From the rich history of Sirpur to temples of ancient beliefs, all leading up to a wealth of art, culture and Nature, the state of Chhattisgarh has it all.

The ancient Buddhist site of Sirpur is one that every traveller would love to pay a visit. Every standing piece of monument makes it worth visiting once in a lifetime

heres something that makes the state of Chhattisgarh very green. It can be seen even before one touches down at the place. The views from high up sitting in that aeroplane are good enoughemerald greens of the grass, rectangular lush patches of paddy, felled logs slanting on a dark green rug and thick lotus leaves that blanket the ponds in Raipur, the state capital. Indias largest waterfall thundering down the black boulders is here to mesmerise you. The hill mynah trill and warble piping through the dense sal and moist teak forests will please you. When jaded, you can slurp on aamath, a heady broth of basta (fresh bamboo shoots), and dig your fork into phooto, the pebble-shaped chewy mushroom that can easily nudge the truffles and chanterelles off the dinner plate. Theres salfi, too, that calls for a heady swig. There is a flurry of colour, vibrant shades of pink, yellow and red flowers amidst the green, even as farmers hunch over the fields, hum a tune and sow 23,000 varieties of paddy that lend the state the rice bowl of India sobriquet. During monsoon, there would be no salfi, the sap of the salfi tree, but there would be red ant chutney on the menu and pandavani 74

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singers on the streets. In the haats, you can pick dokra figurines and exquisitely-carved combs. In the Kutumsar caves, you can see incredibly stunning stalactite and stalagmite formations. Anywhere you go in Chhattisgarh, youll find something enticing and captivating that youll want to add more days to your holiday . HERITAGE RICHNESS: SIRPUR A town called Sirpur or Shripur, which was the capital of the Somvanshi kings, was mentioned in inscriptions dating between the fifth and eighth centuries. But the place became an important centre for Buddhists between the sixth and 10th centuries. Mentioned in Hiuen Tsangs travelogue, Sirpur has become a regular on every Buddhists itinerary. In recent excavations, a rich treasure of Buddhist temples and beautifully carved stone doors and panels have been unearthed by archaeologists. One can see colossal Buddha statues that date back to the period between the sixth and 10th centuries when Sirpur was a hub of Buddhism. The findings of the recent excavations have been displayed

under a makeshift shed. At other archaeological sites, nearly 200 Buddha viharas, statutes of Jain Tirthankars, and a Shiva temple have also been dug out. Historians and archaeologists are intrigued by the presence of statues belonging to the distinct Shaiva, Vaishnava, Jain and Buddhist religions at one place. The Lakshman Temple and the Gandheshwar Temple get quick mentions the moment one talks of Sirpur. A bluewhite signboard near the temple entrance says it was built in the eighth century by Vasata, daughter of King Suryavarma of Magadh and mother of Mahashivagupta, who ruled over Mahakosala with Sirpur as its capital. The temple has been declared to be of national importance under the Ancient Monuments and Archaeological Sites and Remains Act (1958). The temple conforms to ancient architectural principles of using bricks and later strengthening it with stone. The vagaries of nature have added black streaks to the red of the bricks, but the intricate carving still takes your breath away. The temples corbelled high roof inspires awe; the exteriors 75

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(Left to right) One of the temples in the ancient town of Rajim; the Bhoramdeo group of temples showcase some of the finest temple architecture present in the country at the moment; the collections at the Purkhauti Muktangan represent the much-valued art and culture of Chhattisgarh living through the passage of time

have sunken doorways and urn-shaped motifs in moulded brick. On the central lintel are carvings of Vishnus avatars and in the series of panels in the main doorway are delicately chiselled couples. On the bank of the Mahanadi is the Gandheshwar Temple, dedicated to Shiva and sitting amidst several Sati pillars and other shrines faithful to the Jain, Buddhist and Hindu styles and traditions of architecture. Devotees throng this temple during a three-day mela in January-February. It is held on Shivratri, near the Gandheshwar Temple. Organised by the Chhattisgarh Tourism Board, the main objective of the Sirpur National Dance and Music Festival which took place over January 4-6 this year, is to bring artistes into its cultural family and create international cultural amity. An initiative to bring together all the various dance and music forms of the country on one platform, this grand festival showcased the diverse art forms of the country. Eminent artistes of national and international repute participated in the festival and showcased Indian classical, folk and tribal music and dance on the enchanting archaeological stage of Sirpur. The Dalai Lama visited Sirpur for the second time in the last one year. He travelled to the place by road amid tight security and meditated for 20 minutes at the Chanda Dai caves near Sirpur on the hills of Singhadhurva, located 17 km from the town. 76

EXPERIENCE FAITH Rajim is the site of the fifth Kumbh that is celebrated at the confluence of the Mahanadi, Pairi and Sondur rivers, also known as the Prayag of Chhattisgarh. Its similar to the traditional Punni mela which is held at the Rajiv Lochan temple every year. The ancient temple town tells a legend, which says it was created when the nectar from Lord Vishnus lotus fell on the spot where now stands Rajims most famous templethe Rajiv Lochan Temple. The five petals of the lotus are part of what is now known as the Panchkoshi Dham Kuleshwar, Fingeshwar, Kopeshwar, Patneshwar and Pateshwar. Be at Rajim during the Rajiv Lochan Festival (February 16-March 1 every year). Thousands throng this sleepy village to take a dip in the Triveni Sangam, offer prayers at the Rajiv Lochan Temple and carry back hope of salvation. The history of Raipur dates back to the ninth century. Visit the Mahant Ghasidas Memorial Museum, considered one of the top 10 museums in the country. Besides, theres the Purkhauti Muktangana museum maintained by the Cultural Department of Chhattisgarh, which displays the artifacts, folk dances, arts and other things great about the state. Vivekanand Sarovar, popularly known as the Buddha Talab, is a must-see. Said to be more than 600 years old, the

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(Left & right) A priest offers flowers to the goddess at the Ma Bamleshwari Devi Temple at Dongargarh; a traditional folk dance in Bastar

Talab originally spread over 67 hectares. Not too far away is the Dudhadhari Math, a 450-year-old temple where beautiful figures are carved in stone, narrating stories from the Ramayana. Dont miss the Town Hall and the Ramakrishna Mission, too. Previously known as Champajhar, Champaran borrows its solemnity from Saint Vallabhacharya, the founder of the Vallabh sect. Saint Vallabhacharya was born in Champaran in the 15th century and his followers later built a temple in his honour. Located 60 km from Raipur, a huge arch welcomes you. Past the kiosks is a long corridor lined with brightlypainted pillars that merge into a huge courtyard skirted by rooms. The place is considered the holiest by the followers of the Vallabh sect. Bhoramdeo is another place of utmost faith. It is also known as the Khajuraho of Chhattisgarh and has attracted aesthetes for its sensual carvings, architects for its intriguing layout and the devout, for the deity, who is believed to fulfil all wishes. Interestingly, the 11th-century temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva, who is called Bhoramdeo by the Gond tribals, the earliest inhabitants of this area. 78

Dongargarh can never be missed on the list of places in Chhattisgarh that attract the maximum pilgrims. Perched 1,600 ft up on a hilltop, the Maa Bamleshwari Devi Temple is of great spiritual importance. Another prominent shrine in the vicinity is the Chhoti Bamleshwari Temple. The ropeway in Dongargarh is the only passenger ropeway in Chhattisgarh. Shri Danteshwari Temple is a beautiful shrine is dedicated to Goddess Danteshwari, and is one of the 52 shrines of Shakti, the divine feminine, in India. It is situated in Dantewada, a town 73 km from Jagdalpur, Chhattisgarh.The temple is one of the ancient heritage sites of India and is an embodiment of the religious and socio-cultural history of the Bastar region. Amidst its sculptural beauty and rich tradition, this beautiful temple is situated in a spacious courtyard, which echoes peace and tranquillity. The temple is divided into four parts such as Garbh Griha, Maha Mandap, Mukhya Mandap and Sabha Mandap. Garbha Griha and Maha Mandap were constructed with huge stone pieces. It is said that several statues were brought from Barsur and were established here. A Garud Pillar has been erected in front of entrance of the temple, which was

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brought from the temple of Barsur. Buit in the 12th century, the Shri Mahamaya Devi Mandir of Ratanpur is known for its rich architecture and religious significance. Located at a distance of 25 km from Bilaspur, this temple is surrounded by lush green hills. The temple has dual statues of goddess Mahamayathe front one is called the Mahishasur Mardini and the hind statue is believed to be that of Goddess Saraswati. During Navratri, devotees flock to these three temples. DEPTH OF ART & CULTURE Anthropologists believe that Chhattisgarh sits on one of the oldest rocks in the Indian subcontinent, and the ancient residents of the state are one of the earliest indigenous inhabitants. It is even difficult to carbon-date the beginnings of the land or its people. But what one can say with conviction is that these people have been in this region for thousands of years; it finds mention in the Ramayana, Mahabharat, the Puranas and the travelogue of Hiuen Tsang, the Chinese traveller. And where theres history, theres bound to be a rich presence of art and culture. Their value cant be measured in just any

value definer. Go deep into the depths of this cultural cocoon in the state and the first place that comes to the mind is Bastar, where the sheer range and artistry of bell metal (dokra) work can take everyones breath away. Made of 80 percent copper and 20 percent tin, dokra (literally old) is perhaps as old as civilisation itself. Dokra craftsmen, known as ghadwa, live primarily in Kondagaon and Jagdalpur. Bell metal motifs and moulds have kept pace with the times, but the tribals still use the ancient technique of cire perdue or the lost wax method. Artists say that cire perdue was practised in ancient civilisations but the coiled thread method is exclusive to Bastar. Thats not all, though. The soil of the Indravati lends its sheen to the famous terracotta handicrafts of the state. Made by the kumhars (potters) with simple tools like a potters wheel and a wooden spatula, wet clay moulds are baked on a slow fire. Wood-carving is also a major handicrafts draw. With 40 percent of the state under forests and nearly 10,000 industries dependent on the jungle for raw materials, it is no surprise that Chhattisgarh has a rich tradition of wood-carving. Tobacco containers, combs, musical instruments, and men79

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(Clockwise from top left) The dance, the music, the games, the food and the culturethe rich tradition of this state has been carried on through generations of inhabitants whose ancestry dates back to the earliest of times. We are lucky to be alive at a time when we can still see a glimpse of our history through the kaleidoscope of Chhattisgarhs art and culture

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(Clockwise from top left) Wood-carvings, dokra work, bell metal, jewellery and the fabrics are among the most exciting traditional art and craft products, tempting for any aesthete

hirs (pillars erected in memory of the dead) are some of the most conspicuous wood-carvings. The best place to take a sneak peek into tribal culture is the village haat, a weekly marketplace where not only essential everyday items are bartered, but the haat also serves as a meeting place for tribals who trek miles to sell their wares/produce. Here, one can buy an intricately-woven fish trap, a carved wooden comb, mahua flowers, quaff the heady local brew, get a traditional tattoo done, eat the phooto, even wager a buck or two on a cockfight. Some of the important haats of Bastar are: Bahigaon, Barsur, Bastar, Chingitari, Kolong, Mardum and Narainpur. The haat is a weekly affair but the madai is a moving fair. The most famous madais are Bastar, Bhadrakali, Jagdalpur, Nangur, Ramaram, Dantewada and Chitrakote. The indigenous people of Chhattisgarh have lived in isolation for years and in the course of time, have developed very distinct dance forms. Not only seasons, special occasions too have exclusive dance styles. During the hareli (seed-sowing season), the tribals perform the Gerhi dance on stilts while the Saila is performed with wooden sticks and poles as props. The Baigas and the Gonds perform the Karma dance during the Karma festival, which is associated with fertility. The Marias wear bison-horned headgear for the Gaur dance in which the performers imitate the movements of the bison. Sua is performed only by women and the cowherds dance the Raut Nacha. Not only do the indigenous have a God of Dance, there is also a festival dedicated to him. The Bhils and Gonds perform the Bhagoriya to appease the God of Dance. Drums, 82

cymbals and flutes are the most common musical instruments. But the Murias boast of 18 musical instruments and Muria men play the drums, while only the women play the cymbals. WITHIN THE SYLVAN EXPANSE Chhattisgarh, as mentioned earlier, is a place wherein the Nature Gods have always blessed manking with open arms. Having said that, its one of the greenest places in the country. And when you are there, Mainpat is the first place to be as one cannot complete Nature travel in the state without it. Think of adjectives before you step into Mainpat. The Shimla of Surguja. Chhattisgarhs beautiful hill station. A Tibet within Chhattisgarh. The only town in Chhattisgarh to have a Buddha temple. Host to the Mainpat Mahotsav that is a must-visit for all adventure-lovers, it is a hill station known for its waterfalls, its statuesque sal and teak forests, its Tibet connection, gurgling streams, beautiful waterfalls. Situated 217 km from Bilaspur and roughly 45 km from Ambikapur, Mainpat is a tiny village which, according to legend, was visited by Rama during his 14-year exile. Mainpat, however, does not borrow from mythology. It owes its fame to a religious leader. In 1959, when the Dalai Lama sought refuge in India, countless Tibetans migrated to India. The Government of India offered land to the migrants in various parts of the country. Mainpat was one of them. That decision changed the fate of the dusty village that soon acquired a Tibetan hue and earned the Tibet in Chhattisgarh (then Madhya Pradesh) sobriquet.

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(Clockwise from top left) The Kutumsar Caves; the wildlife of Chhattisgarh is varied and spread over a number of sanctuaries and national parks; the Chitrakote Falls are a sight for sore eyes

Talk about the great waterfalls in the state and one has to talk about the Chitrakote Falls. From Raipur, you need to drive about five to six hours to Jagdalpur, the headquarters of Bastar district, to see the rain gods at their glorious best, for therein lies the waterfall. Often referred to as the countrys Niagara, Chitrakote is a horseshoe-shaped waterfall where the water of the Indravati thunders down 90 ft. The mouth of the waterfall is almost 1,000 ft wide. On an ordinary day you can see three streams and during the rains, at least seven. Moving on from the waterfall, there are some amazing caves which are worth a visit for every traveller. From times unknown, the little drops of trickling water in the dark confines of the Kutumsar Cave have sculpted the most exquisite limestone formations of stalagmites and stalactites. A mud track and stone steps lead into the 4,500-ft-long and 215-ft-deep Kutumsar Cave. To enter, one needs to walk down an iron staircase where the limestone art is visible. Just make sure you have torchlight or a Petromax when you visit the cave. It is truly breathtaking. The 250-metre-long and four-metre-deep Kailash Gufa, located in Jashpur, is 40 m above sea level. Nearly 30 m from the main entrance is a stalagmite and stalactite formation that looks like a statue of Lord Shiva. Here, the cave spreads itself into a huge hall that has been christened the Balcony. Notified as the Asian Biosphere Reserve, the iconic Kanger Valley National Park is spread over 2,000 sq km.

Named after the Kanger river, this forest has the presence of trees like teak, sal, tendu, sirsa, mahua and amla. Tamarind, medicinal plants, creepers and herbs also abound. Talking about fauna, the forest boasts of the rare Bastar hill mynah, gaurs, tigers, leopards, macaques, otters, crocodiles, the rare mouse deer, flying squirrels and civet cats, along with a fabulous selection of avifauna. The park is located at a distance of 27 km from Jagdalpur and is open from November to June. Another must-visit for the wildlife enthusiast is the Achanakmar Wildlife Sanctuary which sits smug in the lap of the Maikal Hills, and is barely 58 km from Bilaspur. Fed by streams of Narmada, Sone and Johilla rivers, it is surrounded by dense sal and bamboo vegetation. Established as a sanctuary in 1975, Achanakmar, combined with Amarkantak, is now notified as a biosphere reserve. The sanctuarys landscape is mountainous and boasts of several hills of different elevations. Sihawal Sagar, Pandavani Talab, Tangli-Pathar, Nagbohara, Lakshman Dogri, and Khuria Jalashay are some of best spots inside the sanctuary for animal sighting. Other wildlife sanctuaries and national parks in the state are Pamer (442 sq km, nearest railway station is Jagdalpur), Gomarda (227 sq km, nearest railway station is Raigarh), Badalkhol (225 sq km, nearest railway station is Raigarh), Indravati (Dantewada) and Guru Ghasidas (Koriya).

PHOTOGRAPHY ANSHUMAN SEN, ASHOO SHARMA, SHASHWAT SARAF & ICE CUBE IMAGES

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NAVIGATOR
The Chhattisgarh Tourism Board, with a strong backing from the state government of Chhattisgarh, has been making concerted efforts to enhance the infrastructure around tourist destinations.

GETTING THERE
The domestic airport at Raipur, the state capital, is linked to all major airports in the country. There are daily flights to Mumbai, Delhi, Chennai, Hyderabad, Kolkata, Ahmedabad and Vishakapatanam. Major carriers operate regular flights to Raipur. Raipur and Bilaspur railway stations connect well with major rail heads in India. An excellent network of roads and National Highways connect all the major cities and towns of Chhattisgarh to other parts of the country. Chattisgarh State Road Transport and private operators run regular bus services.

ACCOMMODATION
There are a lot of private hotels at all the important destinations. The following are run by Chhattisgarh Tourism Department, which can be booked by the given number below Dandami Luxury Resort, Chitrakote Sonbhadra Tourist Resort, Amadob Hotel Johar Chhattisgarh, Raipur Hareli Eco Resort, Barnawapara Hiuen Tsang Tourist Resort, Sirpur Shaila Tourist Resort, Mainpat Bardiha Lake View Cottage, Gangrel

HEALTH & SAFETY

The state tourism department has paid due attention to the basic amenities and facilities necessary. Restrooms, telephone booths, snack bars and restaurants, petrol pumps and motor repair stations, kiosks and first-aid facilities are present at regular distances. Chhattisgarh Tourism Information centres at various key destinations have been set up and they aid tourists with the required information.

CLIMATE
The climate of Chhattisgarh is mainly tropical, humid and sub-humid. The climate is hot because of its position on the Tropic of Cancer. May is the hottest month and December-January are the coldest ones. The best time to visit the state is in the months from October to March.

For reservations, call 1800 102 6415; web tourism.cg.gov.in; email visitcg@gmail.com

Manifesto
O P I N I O N S & O B S E RVAT I O N S

THE SENSE OF HEARING Our Columnists Recount Their Most Acoustic Memories

THE RUSTIC OBSERVER

RUSKIN BOND
ari Tibba, as the paharis call it, or Hill of the Fairies, is a lonely uninhabited mountain east of Mussoorie, at about 6,000 feet. I have visited it occasionally, scrambling up its rocky slopes where the only paths are the narrow tracks made by goats and small hill cattle. Rhododendrons and a few stunted oaks are the only trees on the hillside, but at the summit is a small, grassy plateau ringed by pine trees. It may have been on this plateau that the early settlers tried building their houses. All their attempts met with failure. The area seemed to attract the worst of weather. Why Pari Tibba should be struck so often by lightning is something of a mystery to me. Its soil and rock seem no different from any other mountain in the vicinity. Perhaps a geologist can explain the phenomenon. Or perhaps it has something to do with the fairies. Why do they call it that? I asked an old resident. Is it haunted? So they say, he said. Years ago, two young runaway lovers took shelter for the night in one of the ruins. There was a bad storm and they were struck by lightning. Their charred bodies were found a few days later. They came from different communities and were buried far from each other, but their spirits hold a tryst every night under the pine tree. There are no ruins on Pari Tibba, and I can only presume that the debris was taken away for use elsewhere. And I did not stay on the hill after sunset. Had I tried climbing downhill in the dark, I may have ended up as the third ghost. The lovers may have resented my intrusion, or, who knows, they might have welcomed change. After 100 years together on a windswept mountain, even the most ardent of lovers must tire of each other.

IT IS SAID THAT MOST FLOWERS, WHEN THEY DIE, BECOME FAIRIES. THIS MIGHT BE ESPECIALLY TRUE OF THE DAZZLING YELLOW FLOWERS OF ST. JOHNS WORT ON PARI TIBBA

Who could have been seeing ghosts on Pari Tibba after sunset? The only inhabitants are the langurs, who feed on rhododendron buds that contain an intoxicating nectar. After dining to excess, the young monkeys tumble about in high spirits. Himalayan black bulbuls also feed on the nectar, and this could account for their cheekiness. They are aggressive little creatures, whose song is as musical as the bray of an ass. Perhaps the owers have something to do with the fairy legend. In April and May, Pari Tibba is covered with St. Johns Wort. The paharis call the ower a wild rose, and it does resemble one. In Europe, this ower is believed to drive away evil. But do not tread on St. Johns Wort after sunset, lest a fairy horseman carry you off. By day, it is curativefor everything from insanity to injury. Can this ower be connected with the fairy legend? There is yet another legend. A shepherd boy, playing his ute, discovered a beautiful silver snake basking on a rock. The snake said to the boy, I was a princess once, but a jealous witch cast a spell over me and turned me into a snake. This spell can only be broken if someone who is pure of heart kisses me thrice. Years have passed, but I havent found anyone. The shepherd boy took the snake in his arms and, at the third kiss, found himself holding a beautiful princess. What happened afterwards is anybodys guess. There are snakes on Pari Tibba, and though they are probably harmless, I have never tried taking them in my arms. But Im all for perpetuating the legend. One of Indias most celebrated authors and Padma Bhushan awardee, Mr. Bond gives Discover India an exclusive and fresh take on the hills.

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THE ART FILES

ASHOKE NAG

he Modernist artists from Indias western region, led by the Progressive Group, and the modern art painters of Bengal, laid the fulcrum which essentially opened windows to the new age artists. Some of these top Modernists are not accessible anymore, except at auctions by Sothebys, Christies and Bonhams, and domestic auctioneers like Saffronart and Osians. They are also available in limited numbers in a few galleries. The coming of the new age brought with it artists such as Subodh Gupta, Atul Dodiya, Paresh Maity, T.V. Santosh, Bose Krishnamachari, Jagannath Panda and Jitish Kallat, to share a few names. Some of these artists are selling at auctions at very tall prices and ushered in what is known as new or contemporary art with their paintings, sculptures, digital and installation art. Modern art is seen to have stretched from the 1940s to around 2000, but contemporary art truly began gaining ground from the end of the 1990s. Thats not to say that Modernist art ceased to exist, but contemporary art introduced a language that was not bound to any particular medium or subject. This brand of art saw the introduction of photography, video, digital and other diverse media being infused into artistic creations. Strikingly contemporaneous subjects also began to surface and, besides, the subjects were not distinctly gurative or abstract. They were often quite seamless. Well-known contemporary artist Kallat once told me that the medium is really just a vehicle to germinate an idea. So, the realisation of a piece as sculpture, photograph, painting or video would be determined by what might best deliver the freight

CONTEMPORARY ART INTRODUCED A LANGUAGE THAT WAS NOT BOUND TO ANY MEDIUM OR SUBJECT... NOT DISTINCTLY FIGURATIVE OR ABSTRACT BUT OFTEN QUITE SEAMLESS

of metaphors and meanings that make up the work, he said. Krishnamachari, another extremely popular face of contemporary art, echoes Kallats views. Everything is Art. I work with whatever I am interested in. My work is an amalgamation of everything from drawings, paintings, painterly assemblages, sculptures to installations and architectural works, he says. People would be familiar with the London-based artist of Indian origin, Anish Kapoor, who has created waves with his massive works of installation art which have enhanced public spaces. Renowned Modern/contemporary artist Paresh Maity says, Public art is tremendously in vogue in Europe, the US and other parts of the world. In India, it is rare and I felt I should go public. Pareshs sculptural works include a 10x10-foot tortoise, giant ants and a crab made from scrap motorcycle parts and cast bronze pieces, each weighing 500 kilogrammes. Quite a few contemporary artists are global in the delineation of their sphere of art. While maintaining their distinct identity, some may have been inspired by great international artists and are exhibiting internationally. If youre interested, visit galleries such as New Delhis Art Alive (which also has a space in Gurgaon, Haryana), Latitude 28, Exhibit 320 and Gallery Espace. In Mumbai, you can head to Sakshi, Guild, Tao, Jehangir Art and Museum Gallery. In Kolkata, my pick would be Galerie 88, Akar Prakar, Aakriti and CIMA, and, of course, an afternoon or evening at Kolkatas Academy of Fine Arts and the Birla Academy of Art & Culture.

Ashoke is a reputed art writer and critic who contributed to Discover India in 1988, our launch year. He returns to give us insights into Indian art.

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THE EXPAT DIARIES

VICTORIA BURROWS

ne of the many things I love about travelling is that it allows me to meet people I wouldnt usually end up meeting. Sharing a compartment on a long train journey, where the seats face one another, is a situation especially suited for small talk and conviviality. Sometimes these meetings can be quite serendipitous. I recently travelled to Jodhpur by train and struck up a conversation with my cabin-mate who turned out to be running a charity organisation. I had just the week before started to look for a way to give back a little of my time to my adopted home of India, so the timing was perfect. As it turns out, Ill be meeting my cabin-mate soon to see how I can contribute. On an earlier train journey, the roll of the cabin-companion dice turned out to be equally benecial. I had boarded the train in a rush and was hungry, but I was pretty sure that there would be a meal of sorts to be found on the train or on one of the coming platforms. This is India, theres always something to eat nearby, I thought to myself as I ran past the snack shops and just made it onto the train in time. How wrong I was. No meal would be served and no sellers of that classic train soup of peppery tomato, or of mutton curry, or of bun omelettes, or even of chai, walked the aisles. When my co-traveller made a joke about my loudly grumbling stomach, and I explained how I had presumed I would be able to buy something on board, he took pity. At the next stop, without telling me what he was going to do, he dashed off the train to buy me a couple of packets of crispsall that was available at what was now quite a late hour at the only open stall

TRAVELLING ALLOWS YOU TO MEET PEOPLE YOU WOULDNT USUALLY END UP MEETING AND, SOMETIMES, THESE MEETINGS CAN TURN OUT TO BE QUITE SERENDIPITOUS

at the station. He almost didnt make it back on board before the train pulled out. It wasnt a healthy dinner, but I was very thankful for it, and touched that he had gone out of his way to be kind to me. Very few times have I shared a cabin with anyone less than very friendly and generous, and only once have I had a journey so disturbed as to feel compelled to do something about it: I resorted to throwing a spare folded-up sheet into the face of a gentleman snoring wildly on the bunk below me. He grunted, turned over and only the soothing clatter of the train remained. Im not sure how much of a role being female and foreign has played in the treatment I have received during all my travels but, certainly, Where are you from? is an easy and rather unthreatening way of starting a conversation and smoothing over the awkwardness of having to share a connedand, if youre luckycosy space with a stranger. And when the train staff bring the sheets, its the perfect signal that conversation can now neatly come to an end and everyone can go to sleep. No one expects any long-drawn-out Good nights. In the morning, there is often only the time for fare-theewells before disembarking, having had an enjoyable journey, with pleasant company, and no expectations of having to swap last names, numbers or addresses without good cause. Sometimes I think to myself: If only all social interactions could be so agreeable and dened.

Victoria writes for many magazines and newspapers all over the world. She travels extensively and gives us an outside-in perspective.

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THE TRAIL ORGANISER

ARJUN MAJUMDAR
ts not easy to talk about Himalayan treks in my social circles. Most people think trekking is beyond them. They think it is similar to climbing mountainsthat you need special gear and training. Rather than trying to convince you that trekking is not beyond you, Im going to list four easy treks, perfect as a start to Himalayan trekking. The rst is Dayara Bugyal, in Uttarakhand, which tops my list of the prettiest meadow treks. It is stunning, where miles of carpet-like lush green undulating meadows are spread in front of you. The snow-covered Mt Banderpoonch looms over the meadows, and you can even walk barefoot on the meadows the whole day. In the evening, you can camp under oak trees skirting the meadows, as the moon washes the landscape with a luminescent glow that will prompt another walk through the grass. Dayara is easily accessiblea 35-km drive from Uttarkashi gets you to Barsu, followed by a morning trek from Barsu to Dayara Bugyal. The caretaker of the GMVN at Barsu or the Dayara Resort can help organise the trek for you. Dayara, however, requires camping gear. The second would be Kedarkantha, again in Uttarakhand. Im yet to come across a trek with campsites as pretty as Kedarkantha, and Ill go as far as to say that I have not come across any trek in India that has prettier clearings. Every half-hour, above 8,000 feet, just when you are tiring, an almost-circular clearing appears through the forest, a grassy knoll thats perfect for a breather. Even gazing at them is refreshing. You start with a long, beautiful drive from Dehradun, and reach Sankri in western Uttarakhand. You can stay at the GMVN at Sankri or

FROM LUSH MEADOWS TO ENDLESS PEAKS, A TREK CAN OFFER EVERYTHING YOUR NATURE-STARVED EYES NEED. BUT START SMALL AND ENSURE YOUR PREP IN TERMS OF FITNESS AND GEAR

Hotel Swargarohini. Again, the caretakers of these lodges can organise the Kedarkantha trek and camping gear for you. The third trek on this list would be Sandakphu, in West Bengal. Spread over ve days, the Sandakphu trek climbs over superb oak and rhododendron forests. When the trek nally tops the ridge line, your jaw will drop as you see the ranges between Kanchenjunga and Everest. These magnicent views will stay with you forever. The start of the trek is in Maneybhanjang, an hour-and-a-halfs drive from Darjeeling. There are many lodges along the way and all you need are a decent pair of boots and warm clothes. The nal trek would be Hampta Pass, in Himachal Pradesh. I was somewhat sceptical about putting Hampta down as an easy trek, and Id rather classify it as an easymoderate trekfor the tiring pass crossing. That said, the trek is a fascinating journey of rapidly-changing scenery, so much so that it is like a movie in fast forward. From forests to meadows, from lofty summits to the desert of Spiti, the trek has everything your nature-starved eyes could seek. In fact, as the trek ends, you will be left gushing with emotion. I strongly recommend the Hampta Pass for its scenic beauty. The trek starts out of Manali and ends at Chatru, on the Kaza highway in Spiti. You need camping gear for the trekeasily available in Manali. If youve seen Yeh Jawani Hai Deewani, youll be able to identify the trekthough I have to say the movie stretches things incredulously!

Arjun is the founder of Indiahikes, a blogger and an experienced trekker. He takes a keen interest in training youngsters to appreciate our trails.

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THE GYPSY CHRONICLES

ABHISHEK MADHUKAR

ne didnt have grand plans to bring in the New Year, no parties or quiet getaways. Unlike me, a young girl had a New Year planshe wanted to travel all the way from Los Angeles to a tiny Himalayan village called Gopalpur, in Himachal Pradesh. It would be quite something if it were possible to substitute people who couldnt make it for their vacation, just like schools have substitute teachers to ll in. Speaking of vacations and teaching brings me back to the girl from LA, who was to visit Gopalpur as a volunteer to teach children basic English at the Tibetan Childrens Village (TCV), a school for refugees, in exchange for free lodging and boarding. Something we today call Voluntourism. The girl couldnt make it which, in turn, changed my no particular plans. I seemed to be the only substitute available to my roommate, who was coordinating the programme at Gopalpur, an hour away from our home in Dharamsala. I was bringing in the New Year just like Id brought in every other evening, with a few drinks of Old Monk rum by the re. By midnight, I began to feel quite altruistic and offered to join the programme and teach children, though I had no prior experience. The next 10 days would be about conversations, poetry reading, word games or anything that let me plant a creative germ within these beautiful young minds. In an attempt to bring in some fun, I took the classroom out of the four walls, away from the blackboard and to the meadows, under the blue skies and warm winter sun. The large school campus was surrounded by lush tea plantations, with the backdrop of red, green, yellow and white Ti-

IT WOULD BE QUITE SOMETHING IF IT WERE POSSIBLE TO SUBSTITUTE PEOPLE WHO COULDNT MAKE IT FOR THEIR VACATION, LIKE SOME SCHOOLS HAVE SUBSTITUTE TEACHERS

betan prayer ags, uttering against the clear blue sky and the snow-capped Dhauladhar mountains. It was picture-perfect, with cheerful and inspiring children scampering about. A lot of the kids at school were born into nomadic families in Tibet and this style of classroom suited them more. They were sent away to India to get a better education under the blessings of the 14th Dalai Lama, as well as to escape the Chinese regime and propaganda. Among the kids who stayed back for the three-month-long winter break, around 200 were orphans who had nowhere to gothe school was their home and the staff their family. The fact that we teachers could get away from routine jobs to volunteer because some children had nowhere to go for the holidays worried me initially. But I took solace in the fact that the kids left behind opted to come back to the classroom and use their holiday to improve their English, math or science. I picked up a few more Tibetan words than they picked up English, and got to learn about their lives. The orphaned children seemed to have no complaints about not having a family or a home or a holiday. The school provided them with free education and boarding, but couldnt please them with the dinner... it was mostly thukpa, a soupy noodle dish with meat and veggies that apparently keeps you warm. I can vouch for one thing: Children and noodle soup ensured that my New Year began in the warmest and most content way possible. And that I learnt more than I could teach.

Based in Dharamsala, Abhishek has written for many publications, including The New York Times. He also reports on the Dalai Lama.

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THE INFORMED GUESTBOOK

V I V E K PA R E E K

ost of us are so caught up in our daily urban lives that the thought of taking a few days off is at once liberating and scary. No matter what the duration of the vacation, theres this niggling little bulb of doubt. Ive found that the best way to switch it off is to take a vacationeven if its just 24 hourswithout a planned itinerary. Just land up somewhere, spend a few hours walking around aimlessly, have a few drinks and a biggish dinner (preferably under an open sky) and then sleep till you want to wake up. And, repeat. We all know the feeling: It takes a couple of hours for our nerves to settle down, and nothing does that better than a sunset. Most of us also tend to be wired 24x7 when were in the city, so putting your phone on silent (I havent had to guts to put it off, yet!) is a boon, but I wouldnt recommend putting off the TV. Why? Because when youre in the city, you feel guilty about spending a few minutes in front of it, and this is your chance to catch reruns of reruns without admitting that theres something better you could be doing. Finally, the conversion of this day into a vacation day needs a change of scenery. Open a window, sit out on the balcony or go to the places roof. That should do it. Ive been introduced to a number of great locations since I took over as Editor of Discover India, but it will be a while before I can visit even half-a-dozen of them. Most of the places on my list are at least 10 km from any major urban dwelling, but I try to make sure therell be cellphone network and Wi-. If you take all of these into account, the best option for you is a homestay. Theres warmth, theres no strict schedule and

THE BEST PART ABOUT A HOMESTAY IS THAT THE OWNERS AND OTHER GUESTS TEND TO LEAVE YOU ALONE. THERES NO PRESSING NEED TO EXPLORE, TO PLAN OR EVEN TO STEP OUT OF YOUR COTTAGE

theres the chance to just be by yourself. From Uttarakhand to Kerala, the concept of homestays has changed the way we vacation, as more and more people want to cut expensive and elaborate tours without compromising on the experience. There are the obvious advantagesauthentic local cuisine, basic amenities, the chance to interact with more than just other tourists and, of course, access to locals-endorsed shops, haats and markets. The most frequent visitors to homestays are foreigners, because they want a fuss-free, real experience. Homestays have another advantage: They appreciate you. Because you step right into a familys dwelling, youre looked after and they want you to be comfortable. We guests reciprocate by not being too demanding, which is a very welcome break from our city-being. It is almost cathartic, like discovering a part of you that was forced by stress to retreat deep inside. Whether youre heading to the backwaters, the beach or to the hills, Id highly recommend a homestay, especially if you have kids. There are bound to be other children around, and they can skip and play while you get that extra few minutes to bask in the wonderful glow of nothing-to-do. Breathe in the local settings, eat something thats been cooked fresh and just let time caress your tired body and mind. Theres bound to be a lot of silence, the kind that lets you hear all your thoughts. Now, the next step is to learn to keep it quiet. How? Begin by shutting your eyes and taking a deep breath.

Vivek Pareek is the Editor of Discover India magazine. When he can travel, he likes it to be casual, unhurried and unplanned.

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Announcement of Awards T+L205x273:Layout 1

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Announcement

Call for Entries

2014

After an invigorating tenth cycle of ARCHITECTURE+ DESIGN & Awards, we are pleased to announce the Call for Entries for the eleventh one. We and our close partners in this endeavour feel youthfully charged and committed to further fortify this platform to appreciate creativity and intelligent architecture. This strength obviously comes from the overwhelming participation in the last cycle and the positive vibrations and response from the architectural fraternity. The experience of the earlier cycles has been very rewarding and educative. We are resolved to bolster this process that applauds out-of-the-box architectural solutions excelling in functionality, environmental concerns, aesthetic values and exuding innovation in a context. + DESIGN ARCHITECTURE and have pleasure in inviting entries for the different categories and assure the participants of their commitment to unbiased, honest and fair jury outcomes, respecting the inherent dynamic spirit in architecture and design.

ABOUT THE AWARDS

Individual architects and architecture firms interested in participating, should send in a request at the earliest for the entry form worth Rs. 500/-(Five hundred only) by a demand draft/cheque favouring Media Transasia India Ltd., New Delhi. Add Rs. 20/- for outstation cheque. The various Award categories would be adjudged by an esteemed and impartial jury from the practicing and academic fraternity in the architectural field and allied professions. Selected/Awardee entries would be retained by the ARCHITECTURE+ DESIGN Awards Secretariat for possible publication/display.

Participants could send a maximum of two projects per entry form. However, participants are free to send in as many projects for each category.

All requests for the entry forms should be addressed to: The Secretarial Co-ordinator, Architecture+Design & CERA Awards 2014, Media Transasia India Ltd. Plot no. 323, Udyog Vihar, HSIIDC, Phase-4, Gurgaon 122 016 (Haryana), Ph: 91-124-4759500 (Extn-674) or email on aplusd.ceraawards@gmail.com The last date for receiving entries would be May 31, 2014 The Award winners would be felicitated at an Award Ceremony. An exhibition of the awardees projects would also be held on this occasion. All the awardees, i.e., the Principal, Commendation, three Special Mentions of each category respectively, the three Creative Thesis Medal Winners and all the Jury members would be provided travel/accommodation to attend the Award Function.

Chest
MAKE THE MOST OF THAT JOURNEY

Mot Ice Imprial Summer Escape Trunk Nothing adds a touch of flair to a vacation quite like Mot & Chandons latest holiday accessory. This exquisite trunk, better known as the Mot Ice Imprial Summer Escape Trunk, actually transforms into a bar-on-the-go at any holiday destination, be it a romantic rendezvous aboard a sun-drenched yacht, a full-blown beach party or even a chill session amidst pointy peaks, and ensures your party spirits stay uplifted throughout. It houses 20 bottles of Mot Ice Imprial that can be enjoyed in any of the 24 large glasses it can also stock, in addition to two removeable glass shelves, two ice buckets, and three smartly-devised sections for ice cubes, garnishes and other accessories. Price on request

Essential Travel Reads | All-Weather Grooming Smart New Gear | Boost Your Entertainment On The Move

Chest TRAVEL MATES

GOOGLE CHROMECAST A wireless device that will let you screen videos from your phone, tablet or PC to your TV, without the hassle of a million wires. It is also instant, so you don't need to worry about buffering times. google.com/chromecast, `2,200

NIKON 1 AW1 The best thing about this rugged camera is its ability to take excellent quality stills, and the fact that it has an interchangeable lens. This allows you to take stunning images. And you dont need to worry if you accidentally drop it. nikon.com, `50,000

CHARGECARD If you are always on the move and hate to carry a bag, this credit card-shaped phone charger is just the thing for you. It is slim enough to fit into a wallet and can be used with any USB device. chargecardproject.com, `1,600

EVERPURSE Combining the usability of a purse and the power of a battery, the Everpurse cellphone battery charger is disguised in a clutch. It has room for all the party essentials and comes in a variety of colours. everpurse.com, `12,200 NETATMO JUNE BRACELET A much-touted new device from techies who create heavy-duty weather equipment, this stylish bracelet lets you measure the suns intensity and daily sun exposure in real time. netatmo.com, (Price on request)

MOVE MAKERS
These cool gadgets can be your handiest guides.
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WORDS ABHILASHA SIHAG, SHREYA KALRA

THE SNOW MASTER

The 2014 Yamaha Apex SE snowmobile is a thrill.
If you dont know how to ski, worry not, because the 2014 Yamaha Apex SE snowmobile makes for an effortless ride on snow. Feel the thrill with this high-tech sledge that features all-air suspensionEPS and EXUP for the first time. Giving it rock-solid reliability and powerful performance is its 998-cc four-stroke four-cylinder EXUP engine. Its electric power-steering system is velocity-sensitive and delivers maximum assist up to trail speed. The Mono Shock II Air suspensions add to your comfort along with the raised seat that allows the rider to ride all day long.

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Chest TRAVEL WISE

SHAHNAZ HUSAIN Forever tulsi-neem face wash Treat your face well with this soap-free face wash that packs a potent mix of neem, lemon peel, aloe and tulsi. `340 VICHY HOMME purifying cleansing gel Say goodbye to excess sebum, dead cells and acne with this salicylic acid-heavy potion. `950

CLINIQUE body cream with SPF 50 This has a non-greasy, non-pore clogging and sweat-resistant formula to shield your skin from UVA and UVB rays. `1,650

CLEAR MEN Cool Sport menthol shampoo Susceptible to dandruff? Wash it away for good this time with this nutrium oilsporting shampoo thatll give you hair any woman would be envious of! `245

CRABTREE & EVELYN Nomad shaving cream With a delicious grassy scent that calms you even before application, make your shaving sessions a happy affair any time of day (or year). `2,099

LOCCITANE EN PROVENCE Baux stick deodorant Confine the alcohol to your soirees, and use this fragrant stick free from parabens and aluminium salt, and prevent odiferous bacteria from developing. `1,390

Fair Weather Man

These all-weather products are limited in quantity but priceless in delivery.
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WORDS AASHMITA NAYAR

LOCCITANE EN PROVENCE Angelica Sublime beauty cream A combination of a moisturiser, foundation and sunscreen, this BB cream offers year-round UVA protection (SPF 30), leaving the skin hydrated and visibly more luminescent. `2,900

IRAYA Keshavardhak taila With 11 potent herbs, including triphala, gokharu and maka, this hair oil will give a shine to your tresses that will never go! `495

CLINIQUE 3-step care system This intensive care system kills dry patches, eliminates oiliness and diminishes pores, making every skin product last longer and look better. `1,850

VICHY Bi-white Reveal body moisturiser With a mix of rice and wheat extract, sunflower and olive oil, itll help you bid dry skin goodbye. Plus, the blend of cypress and orange helps soothe anger. `650

CRABTREE & EVELYN Evelyn Rose body lotion Heavy on anti-oxidants yet light on the skin, this classically aromatic lotion offers some serious hydrating power. `1,995

SUNSILK Natural recharge shampoo Rejuvenate your hair in any season with Sunsilks latest offering, thats infused with ginseng plant root, specially created by hair expert Jawed Habib. `132

IRAYA grapes and green apple shower gel Note: Not to be consumed for dessert after dinner. As natural as your birthday suit, this all-weather gel juggles cleansingits main functionwith restoring the skins natural balance. `295

Weathering Heights
Keep yourself smooth and glowing despite extremes of climate and season.
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Chest TRAVEL WISE

AUTHORSPEAK

SHWETA TANEJA is a graphic novelist and author whose latest novel, The Skull Rosary, has been critically acclaimed in India and abroad. She is the quintessential easy traveller and also a former journalist. She picks five books that everyone can read on any journey.

Nine Lives by William Dalrymple These nine stories are well-researched and mesmerising. I travelled 500 km to see a Theyyam performance after reading this book!

A Song of Fire And Ice Series by George R.R. Martin This high-fantasy series has broken down all the conventions laid by Tolkien and his likes. And brilliantly!

Sandman Series by Neil Gaiman A comic book series, Sandman mixes reallife incidents with folk tales and the mythology of the Greek, European and Indian cultures.

Jaya by Devdutt Pattanaik Jaya is a retelling of the Mahabharata and includes regional and folk variants to the Sanskrit text. Pattanaik gives a fresh take to the epic.

Wolf Hall by Hilary Mantel Set during Henry VIIIs reign, Mantel's book tells the tale of Thomas Cromwell minister, bizman and Machiavellian character.

APPS MANIA

MAGIC AT YOUR FINGERTIPS

We bring you the top five most useful apps to have while travelling.
Afterlight Image-editing apps are available on the App Store a dime a dozen, but Afterlight is perhaps the most feature-rich one and it allows you to upload to a variety of social networks including Instagram, where you can further apply filters to the image. Camera Awesome Imaging app Camera Awesome segregates various editing options and simplifies the user experience in an intuitive way. It also offers unique frames and textures. And it offers a number of in-app purchases for Android and iOS. Republique There are not many games that provide the stealthy gameplay and intrigue Republique does on iOS. Its stunningly beautiful and combines this with innovative gameplay mechanics and an immersive story. Zenga TV Watching TV on the go is not the most initiative experience for the average Indian. Zenga TV has been on a mission to solve this issue for the last five years. Its mobile apps for iOS, Android and Windows Phone provide the most exhaustive library of TV content for mobiles, and also exclusive content of its own. Additionally, Zenga TV implements its own proprietary compression technology that compresses video to such a degree that it can be streamed even on 2G networks. Grand Theft Auto: San Andreas Released originally in 2004 for PlayStation 2, GTA or Grand Theft Auto: San Andreas is a legend. Rockstar has released it on iOS and Android, updated with a mobile interface with controls tailored for touchscreens and an updated graphics engine that leverages the power of the best mobile SoCs (System on a Chip) like the Qualcomm Snapdragon 800 and the 64-bit A7 chipset.

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APPS MANIA WORDS SAHIL MOHAN GUPTA TRAVEL TALKIES WORDS SAMONWAY DUTTAGUPTA

Favourite destination and why? Hampi. Even though its a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Hampi is a treasury of temple ruins and monoliths from the Vijayanagara Empire era. What not to miss? Walk or hire a scooty or bike. The must-sees include the courtesan street, the Lakshmi Narasimha monolith, Vithala Temple and stone huts dedicated to women fighters.

Best eating joints? Sagar Hotel in Hampi Bazaar for idli, dosa and gunta ponganalu, All Tribes Coffee Shop for conversation and coffee. For variety, head to Hippy Island (where most foreigners stay in Hampi). The place offers many options, including Goan Corner for fish curry. Dont expect anything spectacular in terms of food, though. The place offers more food for the soul than the stomach.

TRAVEL TALKIES
DOWNLOADS

TOP

Timber by Pitbull feat. Ke$ha Album Warrior

Dark Horse by Katy Perry feat. Juicy J Album Prism Counting Stars by OneRepublic Album Native

The Road Much Travelled?

Most of us have seen movies about a female victim falling in love with her male oppressor. All we can hope is that Imtiaz Ali doesnt regurgitate this clich in his upcoming flick, Highway. Co-produced by Sajid Nadiawala, the film is due for release on February 21 and stars Randeep Hooda and Alia Bhatt in lead roles. The movie is based on the story of a lively, urban girl and daughter of a big-time industrialist who gets abducted while travelling on the highway with her fianc (to whom she was to get married in the next four days). Her outlook on life tends to change while in captivity with the rustic criminals. She gets drawn away from her life of jewellery, clothes and marriage. The gang doesnt want to take the risk of asking for a ransom as the girls father has contacts and they could get into trouble. But the leader remains firm in his resolve and doesnt want to let go of the girl. Eventually, she starts to fall in love with him. But will this journey really change her? We have to wait for the film.

Say Something by A Great Big World and Christina Aguilera Album Is There Anybody Out There?

A Tale Of Love And Time

Valentines month is here and what better way to celebrate the day of love than with a movie which has a good dose of romance? Releasing on February 14, Winters Tale is a movie based on a romantic fantasy novel of the same name by Mark Helprin. Starring Colin Farrell, Jessica Brown Findlay and Russell Crowe in lead roles, it is set in the 19th century where a thief named Perter Lake (Farrell) falls in love with an ill woman (Findlay). Crowe plays Pearly Soames, Lakes former boss and a major factor in keeping his life complicated. The interesting twist to the plot comes when Lake appears in present-day Manhattan and, having lost his memory, befriends Virginia who helps him explore his past. What happened in all this time? How come he is still alive? Is it a rebirth with the same face? We have to wait and watch. The film is directed by debutant Akiva Goldsman, who is known for his Academy Award-winning screenwriting for A Beautiful Mind.

The Monster by Eminem feat. Rihanna Album The Marshall Mathers LP2 Royals by Lorde Album Pure Heroine Let Her Go by Passenger Album All the Little Lights

Wake Me Up! by Avicii Album Wake Me Up!

Story Of My Life by One Direction Album Story Of My Life

Pompeii by Bastille Album Bad Blood

Burn by Ellie Goulding Album Halcyon

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INDIAS FIRST TRAVEL M AGAZ IN E

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Circumnavigate
THE WORLD, FROM THE INDIAN EYE

Revisiting Scenic & Vibrant Bali Animals Steal The Show In Hamilton, Canada

Circumnavigate BEACH TOWN

Idyll In Bali
A short vacation in Indonesias scenic beach town can show you its volcano, handicrafts, fire dances and Hindu influences.
Words ADITYA GUPTA

eading to Bali, a morning flight from New Delhi deposited us at Singapores Changi Airport, where we spent a few hours, enjoying the premium services of Singapore Airlines. We reached Bali after dusk and took a prepaid taxi to our hotel. On the 20minute ride, Bali seemed a clean, friendly and simple place, as we had expected. It appeared to have the highest density of luxury hotels in the world and, given my interest in design and architecture, my plan was to use three hotels over four nights! We started off with the Conrad (Hilton Group), where our oceanfront room provided great views and a fragrant breeze. After a relaxed breakfast, we booked a car to visit the handicrafts and sculpture village, Ubud, and the Kintamani volcano. We basically handed ourselves over to the friendly cabbie and asked him to show us around different places en route to the volcano, which was a two-hour drive away. We went by an interesting monument, and visited a batik factory and a jewellery factory. Lunch was at a beautiful restaurant with a raised platform-like feel amid paddy fields.Then we stopped at some stores/yards selling stone sculptures and were really impressed by their beauty and reasonable pricing. Bali has a heavy Hindu influence, though Indonesia is a predominantly Muslim country. The themes of sculptures are usually centred around Hindu goddesses, Ganesha, and Buddha. It was an interesting day and quite a scenic drive to the volcano, which we reached around sunset. Kintamani presented a beautiful spectacle at dusk. Our experience was a little compromised because of over-enthusiastic street vendors trying to sell us stuff and we left the viewpoint fairly quickly because of this, going down to the

lakeside to view the volcano from across the water. It was a pretty setting, the place quiet and idyllic. On the return journey, we stopped by a local outlet for Balinese coffee and then napped in the car until we got back to the lively Jimbaran Bay. We asked the cabbie to take us to an interesting place for dinner and his choice was a row of about 25 restaurants right on the beach, all serving seafood with nearly identical menus and styling. All of them were doing decent business! We enjoyed dinner at a secluded table with candles and the music of the ocean. The seafood was as fresh as it can get because one could select the items from bins. Most of it was then grilled and served hot on a little contraption with charcoal burning underneath which kept the food warm and well-smoked for flavour.

(Clockwise from above) The wooden sculptures of Buddha made in Bali are must-takeaways from the place; Balis amazing sea beaches swarm with surfers; the beautiful landscape around the Pura Ulun Danu Temple

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(Clockwise from top left) Ubud's Monkey Forest Sanctuary is known for its rustic pathways and ancient bridges; Barong is the traditional Balinese dance which is taught to youngsters too; the Hindu families in Bali come to take a dip in the sacred springs of Tirta Empul

relaxing in our villa for a while, we went down to the beach and enjoyed a lunch of tandoori chicken and cocktails. In the evening we had an interesting excursion to the Ulluvatu Temple as well as a fire dance performancean adaptation of the Ramayana. The temple, too, has a cliff-side location with stunning views of the ocean and cliff. There are monkeys as well and guides were offering their services to protect visitors from them. For dinner, we went to the mesmerising Karma-Kandara Resortyet another outstanding property in Bali. The restaurant NAVIGATOR is by the ocean and Reach Bali the approach is also by From New Delhi, the trolley. We savoured most convenient flight to Indonesian preparatake is the one by Jet tions along with coolAirways via Singapore ing drinks in this which departs at 10.30 shack-style eatery, pm and reaches Bali at which was like a sea10.40 am the next day. side open-air lounge From Mumbai, Singapore Airlines has a flight via with exceptional food, Singapore which departs service and music. at 12.05 am and reaches Back at the Bulgari, Bali at 12.05 pm the we visited its famous next day. Italian restaurant and, From Kolkata, Singapore since dinner was Airlines has a flight via already over for us, Singapore which departs at 9.55 pm and reaches enjoyed some at 9.35 am the next day. tiramisu. The resort felt cosy and inviting, mented our swim with some interesting cockwith the evening lighting, and we were in no tails, which we sipped sitting on stone furniture mood to go back to our villa. So we hit the bar built inside the water. on the cliff-side with loungers placed for cusThe Kayuputi restaurant of the St. Regis, tomers to look out over the cliff to the endless located alongside the pool, had possibly the ocean. It was a perfect location for our last most beautiful setting for a restaurant. The night in Bali. locale was complemented by an outstanding The resort is west-facing so there was no culinary experience. We sat on the beach until motivation to get up early in the morning. We nearly midnight, feeling the magic of the ocean lingered over a grand breakfast in the Asian and the caress of the breeze. restaurant where our table was at the cliff-edge. Our next hotel was the ber-swish Bulgari Afterwards, we walked on the beach for an Resort. The only other hotel of the designer hour in complete solitude with just the wind, brand is in Milan. The Bali property is located sand, and some shells for company. atop a cliff alongside the ocean with uninterAs we left, we felt our visit should have rupted 180-degree views of the sea from most been a few days longer. On the way to the airof the villas. A traction trolley takes guests port, we stopped by one of the sculpture showdown nearly 200 metres to the beach, where rooms and I selected a few outstanding pieces there is a pleasant bar and an interesting menu. to be shipped to India later. They would surely The beach is completely secluded as it is inacbe a pleasant reminder of our short but sweet cessible except from the Bulgari resort. After vacation in Bali.
FEBRUARY 2014

The next morning, I woke early to welcome the sun and it was really nice to walk along the ocean in the early hours. A cloudy sky compromised the sunrise experience but it still made for some great pictures and fresh air. After breakfast, we moved to the beautiful St. Regis Hotel. We stepped out briefly in the afternoon to visit some nearby shops and kept the evening for the hotel which had a fire dance ceremony at sunset. We spent the rest of the evening at the swimming pool, located at the ocean front. The bar along the pool comple-

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Circumnavigate WILD FRIENDS

THROUGH A GLASS, CHARMINGLY

At the African Lion Safari in Hamilton, Canada, your vehicles windows stay rolled up but on the other
side are friendly and curious creatures.
Words & Photography CHITRA RAMASWAMY

he sign reads Trespassers will be eaten. We pay heed and yet do notwe enter this forbidden territory smugly seated in a rented Camry, windows rolled up. We are now caged creatures taking a tour of the huge sprawl in which the lords of the wild roam about without a care, casting scornful glances at us. Those nimble of foot coax, cajole and tease us as they plant themselves bang in front of our slow-moving automobile, challenging us to rev past them. The more daring ones press their noses and beaks against the windows of our vehicle, inviting us to a conversation with them. The simian species hop on to the fenders and roofs of practically every passing car, sizing up each on its merit as their perch. There are others that strongly believe in unity and appear in twos and threes to waylay us in a mock ambush. And, yes, not to forget the contented souls. Well, at least for the moment, they seem

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to be sothrowing disdainful looks towards us and wondering what aliens we are. The king of the jungle, the most majestic of them all, is simply happy to watch the world go by as he luxuriates in the choicest corner of the vast expanse, having partaken of a sumptuous breakfast. We are at the African Lion Safari in Flamborough, Hamilton62 miles west of Toronto. The park, a privately owned and operated property, was founded in 1969 by Gordon Debenhan Don Dailley, a retired Canadian Army colonel. The lure of seeing hundreds of animals from around the world, roaming freely in a large contained area encompassing seven game reserves over 300 hectares is all too irresistible. The parks safari bus and a handful of cars, including ours, venture on a slow drive along a nine-km trail. Initially, we spot a few exotic birds that cross the vehicles path every now and then, giving us amused looks and posing patiently as we click away through the window

glass. A couple of cheetahs are the first animals we spot. It is obvious they are not interested in us; in fact, they seem stubborn about not humouring us shutterbugs. They are engaged in their own private play, chasing each other in slow motion, but making sure all the while not to get close to us. Barely do we bid goodbye to the spoilsport cheetahs, we come upon a dozen or more monkeys, making up in ample measure for their killjoy forest brethren. They are all over the parade of vehiclesfrisking and chattering, hopping from one vehicle to the other, perching on bumpers and rearview mirrors, delighting in the audience they have. We satisfy ourselves, capturing the simian antics through our lenses, though again through the glass. Having exchanged plenty of greetings with the distant descendants of our ancestors, we move on to the Simba Lion Country where a pair of lions is enjoying a lazy morning, perhaps after a heavy breakfast. The lords of the jungle, a few hundred metres away from us,

(Clockwise from extreme left) Scenes such as an elephant trying its trunk at basketball are not uncommon; a giraffe looks on; interesting rides attract tourists of all age groups; leopards spot the action

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maintain their distance and decorum, but do oblige us with brief poses for a shoot. The more exciting part of our trail brings us to the Eurasian reserve in which we get to see a host of animals, including the yak, mouflon, several species of deer, the Turkmenian Markhor, nilgai, Himalayan tahr and the emu. It is the emus that captivate us with their huge, marble-like eyes and charm. They surely want to engage in a friendly banter with us and weave their way through the line of cars, pressing their beaks against our windows and beckoning us to chat with them. Some of us shutterbugs exploit their friendliness to the fullest as they oblige with poses. Even as we are clicking away at the emus, the red-necked wallabies and red kangaroos on the reserves periphery cast furtive glances at us from behind rocks and trees, but fight shy of our digital devices and remain a safe distance away. Zebras, ostriches, giraffes, eland, white rhinos, llamas, exotic species of cranes, geese and 110

storks stalk us as we pass through the Nairobi Sanctuary, the Rocky Ridge Veldt and the North America Reserve. The drive takes the better part of an hour-and-a-half as we stop at several places to get up close to these animals and birds, and sometimes to give way to them as they cross our tracks. Having sated ourselves with seeing the wild, we are now ready for the ritual parade of the pachyderms to their swimming pool. A huge crowd is already waiting to witness this splendorous spectacle of the Asiatic jumbos indulging in aqueous play. We follow this up with the avian show and elephant acrobatics, all set to clockwork precision. In Parrot Paradise, we are treated to an incredible display of cerebral abilities, walking and cycling on tightropes by the birds, most of them with flashy plumage in multicoloured hues. The Birds of Prey Flying Demo is just as exhilarating as we witness avian acrobatics. The falcons, eagles, hawks, vultures and owls soar, swoop down on unsus-

NAVIGATOR
Reach Hamilton To get to Hamilton, one must reach Toronto, 100 km away. From New Delhi, British Airways has a flight via London which departs at 11.10 am and reaches Toronto at 7.20 pm the next day. From Mumbai, United Airlines has a flight via Newark which departs at 11.40 pm and reaches at 8.47 am the next day. Cabs can be hired from the airport to Hamilton.

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pecting prey, grab their catch and blithely glide, showing off their several talents all at once. The walking area leading to the show arenas displays a medley of birds, many of them rare and endangered. It is back to the elephants once more. They are at their all-time bestworking hard at logging, lofting a ball into the basket or kicking a soccer ball without raising dust. They even do a couple of somersaults, probably to belie their weight, and show off with a flourish their painting skills, perhaps putting Picasso, Van Gogh and their likes to shame! Before we embark on the next conducted tour of the Safari, which is easily a full days outing, we take a lunch break at one of the several dining outlets in its precincts. We also browse around some of its shopping outlets. The shops, we observe, are crowd-pullers in the Park that is open from the beginning of May to mid-October every year. Following the break, we resume our tour of the Safari, hopping onto the Nature Boy

Scenic Rail for a 15-minute ride that is a rich learning experience. We are at once treated to native wildlife and are especially thrilled at seeing the Bactrian camels and reindeer, a herd of which waylays us and plants itself bang on the rail tracks. We wind up our visit to the Safari with a cruise aboard the African Queen. It is remarkably refreshing, with the late summer breeze caressing our faces. A tour guide on board points to several animal and bird species that include the ring-tailed lemurs, spider monkeys, white-handed gibbon, marabou stork and crested macaques. Even as we bid adieu to the creatures of the forest, there are several visitors having a blast in the park precincts that offer a plethora of activities. There are hordes of children going wild in the Misumu Bay Wet Play area, splashing around in the water. Several kids and their parents explore the animal world at Pets Corner and still others interact with the elephants and take rides on them.

(Clockwise from top left) The Lion Safari has more to it than just the big cats. Animals of all kinds, including reindeer, giraffes, ostriches and rhinos are seen in plenty at the place

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{FEBRUARY 1989} TIMELESS THREADS

Living up to its name as the only cultural magazine in India, Discover India highlighted how every creative aspect of a country defines its people and traditions. Be it in our daily life or our customs during festivals, our vibrant clothing and its associated work are distinctive and widely acclaimed. This, really, is India.

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PHOTOGRAPHY ANWITA+ARUN