FASHION STORIES:!

SEQUENCE AND THE PAGE"

Fashion photographs, what are they about! clothing?! atmosphere...! associations...! stylistic symbolism...!

Fashion photographs, what are they about! clothing?! atmosphere...! associations...! stylistic symbolism...!

Montage / Sequence / Reference"

Fashion photographs, what are they about! clothing?! atmosphere...! associations...! stylistic symbolism...! Montage / Sequence / Reference!

Fashion photographs?! Fashion sequences! To look at some key basic ideas in fashion photography through two particular fashion stories"

(Group) Analysis of key roles ! (via Ulrich Lehmann, Fashion Photography, Chic-clicks, 2002)! Production:! Photographer! Model! Rhetoric:! Gesture! Narrative! Text"

Hymn! David Sims! Arena Homme + ! A/W 2012!

Vacation! Daniel Riera ! Fantastic Man! S/S 2012"

Thoughts on sequence?"

Photographer?! Style Classical, clarity! A play on deadpan! Static composition / Sharp line / Clear colours"

Photographer?! Style Classical, clarity! A play on deadpan! Showing clothes? (an old approach)! Demonstrating editorial vision?! Static composition / Sharp line / Clear colours"

Model?! (via Ulrich Lehmann)! The models body is the support of the clothes, an abstraction that then the clothes render real! It is the clothes that make the subject"

Is there an interplay here?! What is the model choice here?! How does it affect the clothing?"

What is the model choice here?! How does it affect the clothing?"

What is the model choice here?! How does it affect the clothing?"

Mert & Marcus! Versace Men campaign! 2012"

Collier Schorr! Workshop! Fantastic Man, A/W 2013"

Collier Schorr! Workshop! Fantastic Man, A/W 2013 "

Gesture?! The deadpan! The non-gesture, with a positive outlook"

Gesture?! The deadpan! The non-gesture, with a positive outlook"

Gesture?! The deadpan! The non-gesture, with a positive outlook"

Narrative?! A trip! A vacation! Health.! The healthy body"

Narrative?! A trip! A vacation! Health.! The healthy body"

Narrative?! A fashion story issue to keep the story open / ambiguous and yet retain a universal element for viewer identication! Lehmann: ! *to keep a story simple, to not exclude the viewer, to not detract from clothes! *to keep narrative compelling and generate anticipation, to link the images, to draw spectator in"

An early fashion paradigm ! Healthy Outdoors from mannequin to movement! Baron George Hoyningen-Huen! Martin Munkacsi ! Louise Dahl-Wolfe !

Baron George Hoyningen-Huen, British Vogue, August 8th 1928 Baron George Hoyningen-Huen, American Vogue, July 5th 1930

Louise Dahl-Wolfe, American Harpers Bazaar, May 1938 Toni Frissell, American Vogue, January 1st 1939

Martin Munkacsi, American Harpers Bazaar, June 1936 Martin Munkacsi, American Harpers Bazaar, December 1933

Alasdair Mclellan! Vogue, March, 2014"

Martin Munkacsi! Beach!! c.1930"

A key shift From clothing as honorific / sign of status to fashion as centering on the body

Edward Steichen, American Vogue, June 1st 1925

Richard Avedon! Harpers Bazaar! 1957"

Annie Leibovitz! Prada campaign! 2014"

Cecil Beaton! Lady Ottoline Morrell! 1927 "

Erwin Blumenfeld! The Princess of Pearls! Harpers Bazaar, 1939"

Hiro! Rudi Gernreich! Harpers Bazaar! 1966"

Current vogue:! Alasdair McLellan! In Glorious Mono! S/S 2013"

Helmut Newton, French Vogue, November 1981

Guy Bourdin, Charles Jourdan advertising, Summer 1975; Spring 1975 variant; Spring 1975

Julia Noni! How to Look Good Naked! Bon, S/S 2014"

Daniel Riera! Butt magazine ! 2010"

Mario Sorrenti! Perfect Ten! W Magazine, 2014"

Mario Sorrenti! The Rules of Deception! V Magazine no.58! 2009"

Oliver Zahm: On the Marked Change in Fashion Photography! Fashion photography! *is a cannibalistic vampire (devours times, trends, bodies, youth)! *sits between advertising and pornography! From advertising (which seeks to incite desire for the object) it retains the imperative of legibility and ease of decoding the fashion referent. From pornography (which seeks to incite desire for the subject) it learns to ritualize desire, and to aestheticize the sexual act in an impossible prostitutional act, a non-site of symbolic exchange! Chic-Clicks, 2002"

Sean & Seng! Stoya! Pop, SS 2013"

Sean & Seng! Stoya! Pop, SS 2013"

Richard Kern! Sasha Restrained by Richard! Vice! 2009"

Steven Klein! James Deen and Stoya! 2013"

Text?! Roland Barthes: The theatre of fashion is always thematic: an idea (or more precisely, a word) is varied through a series of examples or analogies! The Fashion System"

Text?! Roland Barthes: The theatre of fashion is always thematic: an idea (or more precisely, a word) is varied through a series of examples or analogies! The Fashion System"

The caption! To describe what is there.! To name the brand.! To set a tone (a rare instance, not the usual function)"

Photographer?! Style?! David Sims! The lyrical, the symbolist"

Photographer?! Style?! David Sims! The lyrical, the symbolist"

David Sims! Prada menswear A/W advertising campaign! 2012"

David Sims! Prada menswear S/S advertising campaign! 2013"

Gustave Moreau! The Apparition! 1876 "

The insert! Fashion-as-and-montage"

Stylistic features:! Colour! Digital effects"

Sarah Moon"

Saul Leiter"

What kind of digital effect?! David Sims vs. Nick Knight"

Nick Knight! Campaign for #DIESELTRIBUTE! 2013"

Nick Knight! Garage no.3! 2012"

David Sims! Acid Jazz! Arena Homme+ S/S 2013 "

Model?!

Daniel Sannwald! Collections! Arena Homme+ A/W 2012"

Gesture?! Narrative?! Text?! A mystical return to grunge! A hymn to a pop-cultural gure! Posing the splendid with the sordid the special with the everyday! Hymn as dream-logic!

Gesture?! Narrative?! Text?! A mystical return to grunge! A hymn to a pop-cultural gure! Posing the splendid with the sordid the special with the everyday! Hymn as suburban dream-logic!

Narrative?! A fashion story issue to keep the story open / ambiguous YET! Hymn as deliberate obscurity, but with simple premise: David Bowie a movement away from depicting clothes to emphasis on mood! A distancing narrative style anchored by easily understood referent"

Corrine Day! Englands Dreaming! The Face! 1993"

Corrine Day! Englands Dreaming! The Face! 1993"

The everyday meets the dream! fashion photography as play with deation as well as elation! (but still essentially constructed)"

Juergen Teller"

Wolfgang Tillmans"

Cecil Beaton! Vogue! 1945"

Cecil Beaton, ! British Vogue, ! September 1941 !

Hymn! David Sims! Arena Homme + ! A/W 2012!

Vacation! Daniel Riera ! Fantastic Man! S/S 2012"

To conclude:! A fashion story is a mixture of:! clothes / model! mood-tone / dening word! style! model-casting! reference! narrative! expectation / anticipation! identication! text-image-relation!