PRESTON UNIVERSITY
PRESTON UNIVERSITY
SESSION 2004-2008
Submitted By:
NAME Registration No
AAMIR SHABBIR 1617-304003
SULMAN MANZOOR 1617-304009
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___________________ CONTENTS______________________
CONTENTS______________________
INTRODUCTION
i. Cotton………………………………………………………5
ii. Polyester…………………………………………………...8
Dyes……………………………………………….……………………………..27
Lab Testing …………….……..…………………….……………………….28
Calendaring………………………………………….…………………32
Cad-Cam Studio………………………………….………………………...36
Engraving Section…………………………………….…………………..37
Color Kitchen………………………………………….…………………….39
Maintenance Plan……………………………………...………………….39
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Shahraj Fabrics Pvt. Ltd embarked upon textile business in the mid 70s as a sole
propriety concern. Initially it commenced its activities from trading of greige fabric
woven on auto loom. Through the dedicated and sustained efforts of the Chief
Executive, it turned into symbolic greige fabric textile trade entity. The Company was
incorporated in Aug 1993 under the banner of Shahraj Fabrics (Pvt.) Ltd and started
manufacturing greige fabric on Air Jet weaving machines by acquiring various textile
units on lease/conversion basis. With the growing business leading to strong
financial position the Company embarked on the production of greige fabric by
purchasing 52 Air Jet weaving machines in 1997 with complete back process to
include complete sizing and warping machines. In 2002-2003 the Company further
added 22 Tusdakoma air jet and 72 Picanol Omni plus weaving machines. The
company also owns a vertical integrated processing mill to bleach, dye, print and
finish all blends fabrics up to 3.2 meter wide and has stitching capacity of 4000 sheet
sets a day.
The fabric that is dyed and printed by the shahraj mills usually entertain its customer
international customers, mostly from the customers of Russia, UK USA France
Germany and a considerable amount is dyed and printed for local market. The
printing unit has an average of 9 to 12 Lac meters of average printed average 24
hours, and the mill is still working to improve the production.
The management and technical officer like Mr. Javaid (printing Manager) are very
hardworking and sincere to their job and profession
Company Profile
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Products:
1. Chambray Fabric,
2. Blended Fabric,
3. Bottom Fabric,
4. Canvas Fabric,
5. Cloth Fabric,
6. Coated Fabric,
7. Cord Fabric,
8. Cotton Fabric,
9. Crush Fabric,
10. Damask Fabric,
11. Dotted Fabric,
12. Drill Fabric,
13. Duck Fabric,
14. Dyed Fabric,
15. Embroidery Fabrics,
16. Flannel Fabric,
17. Furnishing Fabric,
18. Grey Fabric,
19. Jacquard Fabric,
20. Khaki Fabric,
21. Linen Fabric,
22. Printed Fabric,
23. Rips top Fabric,
24. Satin Fabric,
25. Twill Fabric,
26. Combed Fabric,
27. Curtain Fabric,
28. Geiger Fabric,
29. Bleach Fabric
WORKING HOURS:
There are three shifts in (processing unit) each of 8 hours.
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COTTON
Introduction
Is a vegetable fibre obtained from the mature capsule of the cotton plant, a shrub
about 40 cm high, with leaves and flowers of a red or yellow colour. When the flower
is fecundated it loses its petals and within 25 days a capsule surrounded by a leaf
called bract grows. The capsule is sustained by a cup and has a drop shape
rounded at the lower extremity. Inside the capsule there are from five to eight seeds
on which the fibre developed. When the capsule is mature it opens into four parts
showing the cotton ball. On the same plant the maturation of the capsules does not
occur simultaneously, therefore more passages are required for the harvest of the
cotton. The harvest is carried out a week after maturation. The first operation after
harvesting is husking, which permits the removal of the fibres from the seeds. Then
the cotton is carded and combed so as to eliminate all the impurities. 4000 fibers is
the seed average. Staple length = 1/8" - 2.5" (0.32 - 6.35cm) - for manufacturing
yarns, fabrics, 7/8" - 11/4" (2.22 - 3.18cm) is standard.
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PREPARATION
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APPLICATIONS
Cellulose may be obtained in a pure condition from cotton by treatment with alkalies,
followed by washing, and by treatment with alkaline hypochlorites, acids, washing
and, finally, drying. As thus obtained it is a white substance having the form of the
fibre from which it is procured, showing a slight lustre, and is slightly translucent. The
specific gravity is 1.5, it being heavier than water. It is characterised by being very
inert, a property of considerable value from a technical point of view, as enabling the
fibres to stand the various operations of bleaching, dyeing, printing, finishing, etc.
Nevertheless, by suitable means, cellulose can be made to undergo various
chemical decompositions which will be noted in some detail.
Cellulose on exposure to the air will absorb moisture or water. This is known as
hygroscopic moisture, or "water of condition". The amount in cotton is about 8 per
cent., and it has a very important bearing on the spinning properties of the fibre, as it
makes the fibre soft and elastic, while absolutely dry cotton fibre is stiff, brittle and
non-elastic; hence it is easier to spin and weave cotton in moist climates or weather
than in dry climates or weather. Cotton cellulose is insoluble in all ordinary solvents,
such as water, ether, alcohol, chloroform, benzene, etc., and these agents have no
influence in any way on the material, but it is soluble in some special solvents that
will be noted later on.
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POLYESTER (PET)
POLYESTER FIBERS
Polyester fiber is a " manufactured fiber in which the fiber forming substance is any
long chain synthetic polymer composed at least 85% by weight of an ester of a
dihydric alcohol (HOROH) and terephthalic acid (p-HOOC-C6H4COOH)" [3]. The
most widely used polyester fiber is made from the linear polymer poly (ethylene
terephtalate), and this polyester class is generally referred to simply as PET. High
strength, high modulus, low _shrinkage, heat set stability, light fastness and
chemical resistance account for the great versatility of PET.
POLYMER FORMATION
(a) Terephthalic Acid (PTA), produced directly from p-xylene with bromide-controlled
oxidation.
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• Strong
• Quick drying
• Wrinkle resistant
• Mildew resistant
• Abrasion resistant
• Easily washed
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FLOW CHART
stentering
The fabric that is comes here to be treated particularly printed are of following
Qualities
30 x 30 76 x 56
35x 35 76 x 56
22x22 60x60
20x20 60x60
40x 40 130x 70 Satin
30 x 30 76 x 56 at 40 – 45 RS/m
35x 35 76 x 56 at 35 RS/m
22x22 60x60 at 50-55 RS/m
20x20 60x60 at 50-55 RS/m
40x 40 130x 70 Satin at 80 RS/m
These qualities of fabric are printed both in cotton and polyester – cotton.
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The fabric in the grey or untreated form is first through in the grey fabric hall. The
hall has the capacity of storing considerate quantity of Fabric. It can store the fabric
up to 3 Lac meters the condition of the hall are kept very strict such as
Weaving Faults: -
• Double Ends,
• Loose Ends,
• Broken Ends,
• Wrong Dent/Draw,
• Loose Selvedge,
• Double Pick,
• Miss Pick,
• Design Cut,
• Knots,
• Hanging Threads,
• Float,
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Mechanical Faults: -
• Starting Marks,
• Rapping Marks,
• Mending Marks,
• Hole /Cuts,
• Oil Stain
Yarn Faults: -
• Cockled Yarn,
• Weft Slub,
• Slubby Weft,
• CEP,
• Count Variation,
• Hair, Jute,
• P Proplyene,
• Black Ends.
Others: -
• Oily Weft,
• Sizing Stain,
• Hard Size.
Minor Faults: -
The faults can be removed easily in further processing such as in
scouring, bleaching and mercerizing etc.
Major Faults: -
Those faults that can not be removed in further processing are
major faults such as starting mark, rapping mark, whole etc.
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iii. Pre-treatments
Although Shahraj Mills having a complete processing pre treatment range included
a) Singing
b) Desizing
c) Bleaching
d) Mercerizing
e) Stentring
All the machineries are well equipped with all necessaries, needed for effective
Pre-treatment.
a) SINGING MACHINE
This machine is made of Germany named Bal-wok.
The performance of the machine is quiet satisfactory at producing singed fabric at a
rate of 70 meters per minute
Pressure 400
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Sr
No Description
1 TENSION UNIT WITH GUIDE ROLLERS & BARS
2 S.S. PRE-DRYING CYLINDER (OPTIONAL)
3 PRE-BUSHING UNIT WITH SUCTION
4 SINGEING CHAMBER WITH EXHAUST
5 WATER-COOLED ROLLER
6 WATER-COOLED BURNER
7 CARBURETOR WITH BLOWER
8 STEAM QUENCHING DEVICE
9 POST BRUSHING WITH SUCTION (OPTIONAL)
10 DE-SIZING UNIT ST-12/ST-15
11 SQUEEZING MANGLE 3 TONS.
12 MAIN DRIVE (A.C. MOTOR WITH FREQUENCY CONTROLLER)
Labour
Operator 1
Helpers 2
b) DESIZING
The fabric is desized for removing sizes and starches. The fabric is already removed
of producing fibers.
One thing to note is that Shahraj is using a singe- Desize techniques according to
which one machine can both sing and desize the fabric
Shahraj Mills is using the enzymes desizing method
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Recipe
After singe – desize they give fabric a dwelling period of 3 hours in which the padder
is covered and not covered (optional) by the polyethene, plastic and a normal
revolution is given so that the solution is evenly distributed and no spots are
produced in the fabric
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After the dwell period, the fabric is set to scour bleach treatment for removing
impurities and obtaining the whiteness on fabric
The machine has 9 tanks, Including 7 washing tanks, 2 out of which 3 are pre-
washing tanks while 4 are post-washing tanks and 1 is naturalization tank and other
is chemical tank.
Fabric loaded
1st wash at normal temp
2nd wash 60c
3rd wash 90c
Chemical tank 40-50c
Steamer 100c
(Fabric length kept in 1300-3000 meters time 35-40 minutes)
Bleached fabric
Labour
Workers 5
Shift in-charge 1
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BLEACHING
Natural fibers, i.e. cotton, wool, linen etc. are off-white in color due to color bodies
present in the fiber. The degree of off-whiteness varies from batch-to-batch.
Bleaching therefore can be defined a s the destruction of these color bodies. White
is also a n important market color so the whitest white has commercial value. Yellow
is a component of derived shades. For example, when yellow is mixed with blue, the
shade turns green. A consistent white base fabric has real value when dyeing light to
medium shades because it is much easier t o reproduce shade matches on a
consistent white background than on one that varies in amount of yellow.
Bleaching may be the only preparatory process or it may be used in conjunction with
other treatments, e.g. desizing, scouring and mercerizing. The combination of such
treatments for an individual situation will depend on the rigorousness of the
preparation standard and economic factors within the various options.
Other chemicals will be used in addition t o the bleaching agent. These serve
various functions such as to activate the bleaching system, to stabilize or control the
rate of activation, to give wetting and detergent action, or to sequester metallic
impurities. This section gives consideration to the selection of bleaching agents and
to the role of the various chemicals used in conjunction.
SODIUM HYPOCHLORITE
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HYDROGEN PEROXIDE
Hydrogen peroxide was first used to bleach cotton in the 1920's. By 1940, 65 % of
all cotton fabrics were bleached with hydrogen peroxide, largely brought about by
the invention of the J-box which lead to continuous processing. Today, it is
estimated that 90 t o 95 % of all cotton and cotton/synthetic blends are bleached
with hydrogen peroxide. It is available commercially as 35, 50 and 70 % solutions. It
is a corrosive, oxidizing agent which may cause combustion when allowed to dry out
on oxidizable organic matter. Decomposition is accelerated by metal contamination
and is accompanied by the liberation of heat and oxygen, which will support
combustion and explosions in confined spaces. The material is a n irritant to the skin
and mucous membranes and dangerous to the eyes
Bleaching with sodium chlorite is carried out under acidic conditions which releases
chlorine dioxide, a toxic and corrosive yellow-brown gas. Sodium chlorite is sold as
an 80% free flowing powder. Chlorine dioxide is thought to be the active bleaching
specie. It is not used much in the USA for bleaching but it is sometimes used to strip
dyed goods and is often described as the bleach of last resort. One advantage of
sodium chlorite bleaching is that it leaves the fabrics with a soft hand. Because of
the gaseous nature, toxicity and corrosiveness of chlorine dioxide, special attention
must be paid to the equipment. It must be designed so a s to not allow the gas to
escape into the work place. Emissions into the atmosphere are of concern too. The
gas corrodes even stainless steel so special passivating treatments must be carried
out to prolong the life of the equipment. When a solution of sodium chlorite is
acidified, chlorine dioxide (ClO2), hypochlorous acid (HClO2), sodium chlorate
(NaC1O3) and sodium chloride are formed. Chlorine dioxide and hypochlorous acid
are bleaching species, sodium chlorate and sodium chloride are not. The reactions
may be written:
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100% cotton
Quality
22x22 60x60
30x30 76x68
Recipe
H2O2 30
NaoH 22
Sag 4
Wet agent 2
Stab Agent 0.5
Sateen
Quality
40x40 127x79
Recipe
H2O2 30
NaoH 25
Sag 4.5
Wet agent 2
Stab Agent 0.5
Pc
Quality
30x30 76x56
30x30 76x68
Recipe
H2O2 26
NaoH 18
Sag 3.5
Wet agent 2
Stab Agent 0.5
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CVC
Quality
30x30 96x56
30x30 76x56
Recipe
H2O2 25
NaoH 20
Sag 4
Wet agent 1.5
Stab Agent 0.5
For dyed
Quality
22x22 60x60
30x30 76x68
22x10 40x44
Recipe
H2O2 30
NaoH 20
Sag 4.5
Wet agent 2
Stab Agent 0.5
For white
Quality
22x22 60x60
30x30 76x68
22x10 40x44
Recipe
H2O2 35
NaoH 22
Sag 4.5
Wet agent 2
Stab Agent 0.5
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d) MERCERIZING
The bleached fabric is usually not transfer to the mercerizing section in case the
fabric is printed at the end
Similarly Shahraj Textile only mercerizes those fabrics that have very strict
conditions at last i.e.
The fabric to the printed is only mercerized is the condition are very strict.
Salient Features
Labor
Chemical Checker 1
Operator 1
Fabric Checker 1
Checker 1
Helper 1
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e) STENTRING
The bleached fabric is past and loaded on to the machine called stenter
The machine is used for multi purposes such as
Width control
Creases Removal
Tem Maintenance
Luster improvement
The basic function is however to control the width of the fabric since the fabric being
passed from wet processes like de size, scour and decrease in the width
considerably as the fabric swells up and loose its strength to recover this width the
stenter is used which gives the required width.
The width that the stenter here are controlling are such as increasing the width up to
114.
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Labour
per each stenter is 4 people
Operator 1
Assistant operator 1
Checker 1
Helper 1
MALO System
Is attached before the stanter to control the scouring and bleaching, in the weft yarn
of the fabric.
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iii. PRINTING
The fabric is then passed on to printing machine for printing the fabric
There are 2 machines launched at Shahraj Mills
Labor
Rotary machine
12 colors machine
50 – 60 percent efficient
Production of this machine is 1200000 meters per day.
The thinker is acrylic based
The binder is used by sandal bar and the name is tex acrylic binder
Recipe
v. Curing / Ageing
The printed fabric is transport for curing to make the color permanent.
Temp 150 c
Manufactured by Bab cock
Made in Germany
Time 10 – 15 min
Labour
Operator 1
Helpers 2
vi. Stentering
For curing chamber, the fabric is past towards 2nd stenter to carry out the required
width of the fabric and produce further creaseless fabric.
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vii. FINISHING
The finished fabric is again checked here to ensure quality. This is done to see the
fabric is printed uniformity or not. If there are tiny parts left unprinted, they are filled
by touching, while a large part is reprinted.
Labour 10
Production average 40,000 m/day
c. Consignment sent
The printed fabric is folded, packed and then loaded in trucks to send fabric to the
desire places
Dyes
The dyes used by Shahraj textiles for printing or pigments, due to there cost
effectiveness and better fastness properties over fabric in the printed form
The pigments are used of company named Sandal Bar.
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LAB TESTING
Shahraj textiles have a very well equipped and elaborated laboratory having almost
every type of modern day testing instruments.
Oven ten major machineries are available apart from many basic instruments,
chemicals and appliances.
Some of the important tests carried out are
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i. GS.M cutters
This is a manual cutter used to cut in sound shape of diameter. The diameter fabric
is fixed that is 42 inches and 11 cm.
This fabric is later used to find weight in grams and which is used to find the total
length of fabric.
The fabric piece along with white cotton fabric is placed and rubbed by a solid 10
times and the fabric piece is checked against the grey scale to find the reading.
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It is a light fasteners taster. The fabric piece is put for 24 hours, in the machine and
recoded.
v. Light box
The fabric piece is checked is various lights such as
day-light
incandescent
back-light
U-V light
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vi. Oven
It is a typical home based oven to heat chemicals, substances or any other thing in a
short time.
The fabric pieces of size 5x5 inches is put in pill box and allow to be rotated for
almost ½ hour. The speed of rotation can be varied.
A sample of size 10x10 inch is inserted in each of the small containers, to carry out
its effect when the temperature is 150c
Other parameters are
pressure 25 bars
Used for Drying and squeezing
Voltage 4 KW
pH 3
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x. Laundro meter
by ATLAS ( USA )
exhaustion
washing fastness
exhaust dyeing
dry-cleaning
Temperature 60 c
Time ½ hours
titration
thickener and dyes and softeners mixing
ironing
Checking starch percentage for measuring the quantities of chemicals in
desizing.
CALENDARING
After using the color the fabric is calendared that is brought into ironed form, making
sure that the fabric is dry and in actual form demanded by customers
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TYPES OF CALENDARS
The type of calendar used depends on the type of cloth to be run and what the
desired effect is to be. There are embossing calendars, friction calendars, swizzing
calendars, chase calendars, and compaction calendars. The difference between
them is the number of rolls and the drive system.
a) Swizzing Calendars
Swizzing is a British term used to denote that the fabric runs through all of the nips a
t the same surface speed as the rolls. Swizzing calendars usually consists of seven
to ten bowls and are run at ambient temperatures. The fabric effect is closed
interstices, a smooth appearance and gloss without the high glaze characteristic of a
friction calendar. A schematic of 7 bowl calendar is shown
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b) Chasing Calendars
Chasing calendars are similar to swizzing calendars. The major difference is that the
thread-up is such that the cloth makes several passes through the nips before it
exits to a take-up roll. This is done by having cloth pass over chasing rolls which
feed it back through the nips. The cloth is compressed against itself with as many as
5 to 6 layers being in a nip. This gives the cloth a thready-linen appearance and a
soft special feel.
c) Friction Calendars
As the name implies, friction calendars (see figure 76) apply a friction force to the
face of the fabric. This is done by driving the pattern roll faster than the support bowl.
Friction is created by speed differentials ranging from 5% to 100% so it is necessary
to have a strong fabric to withstand the strains. Frictioning produces a high degree of
luster on one side and the final effect is similar to ironing with a hot iron.
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d) Compaction Calendar
A compaction calendar has a n adjustable gap between the pattern roll and bowl.
This type of calendar is used to make filter media of certain thickness.
e) Embossing Calendar
Embossing calendars are normally two or three roll calendars with one engraved roll
and one or two bowls. The patterns range from polished rolls or cire' to very deep
floral patterns. Moire is a watered appearance which resembles paper after it has
been wet with water. The moire effect can be obtained by using a moiré pattern
embossing roll. Thermoplastic fabrics can be permanently embossed with heated
rolls and the effect can withstand repeated laundering. Natural fibers are more
difficult to emboss and usually starch is needed for the embossing to take; however,
this effect is not durable to laundering. Certain melamine resins can be added prior
to embossing and when properly cured, the embossing effect is more durable.
f) Schreiner Calendar
Often it is desirable to increase fabric luster without overly thinning the cloth.
Schreinering is a method of doing this. Schreinering is actually embossing by the se
of a very special pattern. The pattern roll has anywhere from 250 to 350 lines per
inch, etched at 26 degrees from the vertical. These lines are lightly embossed into
the fabric and being regular, reflect light so as to give the surface a high luster. This
operation gives a silk-like brilliance to cotton fabrics. Schreinering mercerized cotton
fabrics gives the nearest resemblance t o silk.
CYLINDERS
It has 3 cylinders of steal and other of 2 cotton cylinders (squeezing roller)
Temp 80c
Max-Speed 100m/min
Pressure 19648 bars for 100 ton
Labour
Operator 1
Assistant 1
Checker 1
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Here the design given by the customer on paper or fabric is scan in the computer
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ENGRAVING HALL
In this section the rotary films are exposed and pattern are printed on them
Uniform meshes screens are available in different sizes and mashes.
The number of mashes or a screen varies as 60, 80, 100, 125, 155, 180 per
linear inch
The diameter of screen is 640, 720, 820, 914, 1018mm
Max screens length = 3500mm
The screens they are using made of Cu + Ni
a) Striping
The previous pattern are removed by washing screen using water and chemicals
such as
Phenyl
Formic Acid
Flouric Acid
Methylene
After striping the chromic acid is applied which maximizes the removal and ensure
that there is no
Color softness on screen
There is luster improvement
Mashes are removed
b) Screen Coating
c) Screen Dying
The new coated screen is dyed to ensure the screen coating is thoroughly fixed on
it.This process is also done at high temp and the process takes over 15-30 mints.
d) Screen exposing
e) Exposing Machine
The exposing machine is called CST ink Jet and it works on almost the same way as
an ink jet printer. The header is loaded with color pasted and it prints the pattern in
the required paste.
The room has a light pale yellow light ensuring no effect on coating and color.
f) Screen Developing
The screen is developed which means only that parts where patterns are printed on
screen are removed from coating while other remains same.
h) Hindering
The screen is thoroughly washed normally to make sure the patterned area is open
i.e.
Mashes are not closed by coating or another dust.
Finally the screen is heated and dried and sent to the rotary machine.
Labour
Shift in-charge 1
Developer man 1
Checker man 1
Hankering man 1
Coating man 1
Store in-charge 1
Stripper 1
helpers 3
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COLOR KITCHEN
For printing department Shahraj has a separate hall where pigment dyes are
converted in a form to be used for printing.
The hall has the capacity of making color can ready to be used within 5-15min. It has
the capacity to store starch which is mixed with pigment paste to firm the color of
proper density of 8000kg
1 tank of 4000kg
1 tank of 2000kg
1 tank of 2000kg
Labor
Color man 1
Assistant color man 1
Starch carrier 1
Helpers 3
MAINTENANCE PLAN
A break-down maintenance system is carried out in the printing department by
printing manager Shahraj textiles. That the machines detailed maintenance is
carried out every weekend and twice a month.
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