How to Plant a Tree: 15 Steps (with Pictures) - wikiHow

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How to Plant a Tree

Planting a tree isn't as simple as just digging a hole and throwing the tree in it. If you want the tree you're planting to survive and thrive, here's what to do.
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Steps

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Select the right time of year for planting the tree. Do not plant in late spring or summer because the heat will stress the plant and may cause it to die. The best

time to plant a tree is fall (autumn) or early spring.

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Check to see if there are any local requirements concerning digging deep holes if you need to dig near telephone and other cables (for example, in

urban areas). We have already contacted Miss Utility and have been cleared to dig.

Choose a suitable tree for the region, climate, and space. Research local cultivars of species native to your area. If you are willing plant a non-native species, consider carefully why. We have chosen all native trees which will do well in our area.

Prepare the hole. Take a suitable shovel and dig a hole that is 4-5 times the width of the root ball, more than enough so it will fit, and give room for the fresh

roots to grow without stress. This lets the roots ease in more easily and begin to grow outwards into the soil. No need to cut off the wire root basket if there is one, the roots will grow through and it will prevent damaging the root ball during planting. Try to dig the hole with a small "pedestal" of dirt in the center of the hole where the tree will rest. The hole should be a little deeper around the edges but there should be a pedestal of dirt in the center where the root ball sits. This pedestal prevents the root ball from sitting continuously in water. Any excess water will naturally flow to the deeper areas of the hole around the edges where the roots can drink from if needed. Having a pedestal in the center of the hole is very important since one of the major reasons why trees die is "drowning", meaning

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the tree is getting too much water and the root ball is sitting in a pool of water. The point where the tree comes out of the ground should be slightly higher than the ground around it. Slightly higher means 1/4 to 1/2 inch. This prevents water from collecting next to the base of the trunk which causes the tree to rot. Use the garden cultivator to loosen the dirt all around the hole to make it easier for the roots to spread.

Prepare the tree for planting. The process is slightly different for a small tree and a large tree: If it is a small tree, then you can turn it upside down gently to get it out of the pot. You could also cut some plastic containers to remove them. If the tree is larger and has a net or a hessian or rope bag, you might need to use large scissors or a sharp knife to cut through the packaging. Avoid handling the tree with the burlap off. Put it in the hole, then cut the burlap and rope from around the trunk of the tree, leaving the wire basket. The goal is to keep as much dirt around the roots as possible; moving the tree more than absolutely necessary can easily cause air to get to the roots and dry them out, even inside the root ball. Don't leave a tree's roots out of its container or burlap for too long. Especially in sun and wind, it could dry out and damage the roots.

Place the tree into the hole gently. Be sure the hole isn't too deep or too shallow. The ground level of the plant in the pot should match up with the ground

level after you fill the hole in. Do not bury over the crown (where the stem changes to root) or leave any roots exposed. You can place the handle of your shovel flat across the hole from one side to the other to measure whether the crown is level with the surrounding soil before filling in the hole.

Use some compost or composted manure if needed. If the soil that you currently have is not rich, has clay-like qualities or if it has the consistency of dust

or sand, the addition of manure or compost will give the tree a great start in life. Backfill three quarters of the hole with existing dirt, one quarter with compost or composted manure.

Resist the temptation to use a commercial fertilizer; it tends to overboost the tree and make it "burn out", less likely to do well over the long term. A great

benefit to new trees, however, is an organic mixture that includes micorrhizae, beneficial fungi that enhance a tree's uptake of soil nutrients. It may also include rock phosphate, a natural root-growth enhancer.

Give fruit and nut trees extra attention. Adding manure or compost is essential if you are planting a fruit or nut tree. Backfill two thirds of the hole with existing dirt

and one third with compost or composted manure for each fruit or nut tree.

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Water the newly planted tree. Allow settling, backfill the remaining soil, and water again. This will eliminate air pockets. Water one gallon (3.7 liters) for

every six inches (15 cm) of tree height.

Mulch, mulch, mulch! Cover the planting hole with 1-3 inches (2.5 cm - 7.6 cm) of shredded hardwood or leaf mulch. Keep the mulch 2-3" away from the

trunk or the trunk will rot. Don't over-mulch the tree, either. A few inches are enough to keep water in and most weeds out. Mulch a circle out to the drip line, about the same width as the tree's leaves. A visible patch of mulch also helps remind people not to step or mow or run a string trimmer too close to the tree.

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Water it again. After the planting is finished come back in about an hour and water one more time.

Stake the tree if necessary, for about the first year. Make sure that whatever stakes you use are tied loosely to the trunk and do not dig into the bark or

tighten around the tree. Remove the stakes once the roots have a chance to become established, after about the first year. Staking protects the tree against blowing over in the wind, and it can also help to remind people moving around the tree not to run into it.

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Keep watering your tree for the first few years as it gets established. Depending on the climate and your area, it will need weekly watering until the

roots are established. To form deep roots, water deeply. A long, slow trickle of water will water more deeply than a quick sprinkling. Remember, deep roots help your tree to resist droughts and winds. Let the ground dry out, at least somewhat, between watering.

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Enjoy the tree as it grows over the years with you, your family and friends. Appreciate its shade and beauty and thank yourself for adding another

tree to the world.

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Tips
This article is about transplanting a tree that was grown in a container. It is also possible to start most trees from a seed, either in your own container or directly in the ground. If you are planting fruit or nut trees for a small home orchard, continue to water weekly for the life of the tree, as your crop depends on consistent irrigation. Fertilize fruit and nut trees monthly, or according to package directions. When planting a container tree, tease out the roots into the planting hole. If they are circling too much to do that, make vertical cuts. They will grow back. It is very important that the roots make immediate contact with the backfill soil. Water your tree weekly for the first year. Water 2-3 quarts (2 - 3 liters) for every foot in height (about 3 liters per meter) . So, a five foot sapling should get 10 to 15 quarts (9.5 - 14 liters) every week. Compost is available in 40lb (18.1 kg) bags from most nurseries, garden centers, or hardware stores. Consider the mature height and spread of the tree. the little oak tree now, planted a short distance from your house, could become a hazard during storms 30 years from now. Either plant it farther away, or plant a tree that will mature to something smaller. When buying your tree, make sure that all its leaves are green and not drooping. One more time - mulch, mulch, mulch! 2-4 inches (5 cm - 10cm) of organic material improves the soil, moderates soil temperature and conserves moisture. Refresh annually. When purchasing a tree in a container, be aware that bigger is not necessarily best. A tree although looks like a bargain as is much larger, it's root ball can be overgrown and corked resulting in poor and retarded growth. The key to any tree is in its root development.
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Warnings
In the US, it is possible to call 811 before you dig. One call to 811 gets your underground utility lines marked for free, helping to prevent damage, injury, and fines. Other jurisdictions may have similar systems in place to protect the wiring and cabling that runs through your property. You may incur fines in other jurisdictions also if you dig and break cabling and wiring. Do not plant the tree too deep! Match the soil level from the potted tree with the new planting in the ground. The planting hole should be no deeper than the height of the root ball or pot. Covering up the trunk with extra soil can cause rot. Do not step or walk on the finished planting hole. Walking on soil covering tree roots causes soil compaction. Mulch will help reduce soil compaction. Do not amend the backfill soil excessively. If the backfill soil differs from the surrounding soil too much, the roots will tend not to leave the planting hole as quickly. It is best if the roots spread. Be careful using your shovel.

Things You'll Need

Shovel Tree Place to plant your tree Scissors (optional) Knife (optional) Watering can Popular brand of slow release fertilizer (optional) Measuring sticks Compost or composted manure (available in 40 lb / 18.1 kg bags from most nurseries, garden centers, or hardware stores)

Sources and Citations

http://www.mdc.mo.gov/conmag/2005/04/50.htm http://realpalmtrees.com/knowledge-base/care-and-maintenance /transplanting/

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Article Info

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