Wine Road Burgundy

The Burgundy Wine Road
GB
The Burgundy Wine Road
La Route des Vins de Bourgogne
Welcome to a World of Legend

T
he much-abused epithet of living legend for once really does apply in the case of the vineyards of Burgundy. For over 2000 years, Burgundy has succeeded triumphantly in combining the generosity of its soil with the ingenuity and toil of man to become a reference throughout the world. As the writer Jean de la Varende so aptly puts it, The grands crus of Burgundy belong to both legend and history, possessing the splendour of the former and the authenticity of the latter. Such a fabulous history and such fabled wines flattering both palate and intellect surely deserve a road, a route, an itinerary of their own and a very special itinerary at that! An itinerary taking you to the heart of Burgundy and Burgundy wines, for it is impossible to conceive of the one without the other. Travelling to Burgundy without exploring its vineyards is like travelling to Rome without visiting the Capitol. By the same token, every self-respecting wine connoisseur should, at least once in his life, make a pilgrimage to the source of his pleasure, to the cradle of the worlds finest wines. For travellers and wine lovers alike, the Region has devised and set up a road which is fully worthy of its wines. It is a route of distinction, as fine as any to be found in the world; a route divided into five itineraries embracing all the Burgundian wine areas, from terroirs of world repute to humble local plots and parcels. These itineraries may be explored in your car, on your bike or even on foot, as and when you please. This magical route brings the exceptional and the extraordinary within the reach of all. It opens the door to the world of Burgundy wine, its heritage and poetry, its landscapes and villages, its cellars and winegrowers. In short, the route is an open invitation to discover, learn and dream. Follow the Wine Road and see legend become reality!
02
www.bourgogne-tourisme.com
Contents
The Road of all the Pleasures!
p. 04 11
If there is one area where wine is an integral part of life, that area must surely be Burgundy. As you explore the vineyards you will at the same time drink in all the other treasures of the region: heritage and history, nature and landscapes, winegrowers and traditions, gastronomy and the inimitable Burgundian art de vivre.
The 5 Circuits of the Wine Road
p. 12 35
The Burgundy Wine Road (Route des Vins de Bourgogne) is divided into five routes or itineraries, each corresponding to one of the great wine-growing area of Burgundy, and each with its own description in the following pages: - The Grands Crus Wine Road (Route des Grands Crus) the Cte de Nuits and the Cte de Beaune. - The Grands Vins Wine Road (Route des Grands Vins) the Cte Chalonnaise. - The Yonne Wine Road (Route Touristique des Vignobles de lYonne) the Yonne department. - The Mconnais-Beaujolais Wine Road (Route des Vins Mconnais-Beaujolais) the Saneet-Loire department. - The Coteaux de Pouilly-Sancerre Wine Road (Route des Coteaux de Pouilly-Sancerre) the Nivre department.
Published by the Burgundy Regional Tourist Board (CRT Bourgogne). Creation/Design: FTM.Presse (Fontaine-ls-Dijon, 21) TempsRel (Dijon, 21). Photographic Credits: Alain Doire (CRT Bourgogne), BIVB (pages 8, 14, 37, 38, 39) and Michel Joly (pages 33 and 35). Cartography: Latitude Cartagne. Illustrations: Bernard Deubelbeiss. Printed by Desmet-Laire (Belgium). Translation: Barnaby Capel-Dunn. June 2007 - ISNN: pending.
Practical Information
Planning your Trip
p. 36 39
03
Chteau du Clos de Vougeot
04
History and Heritage
The Civilisation
of Wine
s the diplomat and writer Paul Claudel was fond of remarking, a great wine is not the work of man, but the culmination of a consistent and sophisticated tradition. More than a thousand years of history goes into the making of an old bottle of wine. Few parts of the world express this notion of wine civilisation as well as Burgundy. Here, wine is a founding influence, responsible for shaping many a landscape, building, tradition and mentality. So many beautiful things have been patiently built up around, by and for wine. In all probability introduced by the Romans, the vine is inextricably woven into the history of Burgundy, from the monastic communities of the Middle Ages to the social movements of the 19th century, not forgetting the great Dukes of Burgundy who proudly proclaimed themselves lords of the best wines in Christendom . History is present at every turning in this inspired land. From a little wine village in the Tonnerre area to the Chteau du Clos de Vougeot, from a Cistercian storehouse to a local heritage museum dedicated to wine, from a little dry stone cabotte, once used by winegrowers as shelter from inclement weather, to a Town of Artistic and Historical Interest the past will accompany you throughout your journey, ceaselessly calling you back to the roots of an-ever changing civilisation.
05
06
Of Vineyards and Winegrowers
The Fervour
of Men
ine is much more than a mere beverage, it is a culture lovingly handed down from generation to generation. While Burgundy has always attached great importance to the situation of a particular vineyard or cru (there are about 100 appellations in all), the winegrowers expertise remains a crucial element in the complex alchemy which transforms vine into wine. The label does not attempt to disguise the part played by human endeavour in bringing out the best in the soil. As you travel the length and breadth of Burgundy, a host of wine properties and cellars will help you learn the language of wine. The Burgundian winegrower will make it a point of honour to transmit his passion for wine to you. Listen to him speak of his love of the soil and the vine, of his profession (calling would be a better word), of the fruit of his labour which he extracts from the cask using a pipette. At such moments time does indeed seem to stand still. Away from the underground sanctuary of the cellar scene of the silent art of wine tasting the festive spirit once more asserts its place. Enjoy a convivial communal meal in a wine domaine or at a country fair splendidly organised by a friendly wine confraternity, take part in the famous Saint-Vincent wine festival or a banquet marking the safe gathering of the wine harvest. These are wonderful, not-to-be-missed opportunities to immerse oneself in the popular imagery of Burgundy, festive occasions celebrated with due Burgundian pomp!
07

B.I.V.B. / MONNIER H.
08
Gastronomy and Art of Living
Feast for
I
the Mind
n the words of Alexandre Dumas, Wine is the intellectual part of the meal and food merely its material companion. This aphorism serves as an excellent summary of Burgundian philosophy so far as the culinary arts are concerned. Here, gastronomy, no matter how superb or generous, is at the service of the wine, hence the marvellous Burgundian formula marking the beginning of the meal bon apptit et large soif, which translates rather lamely as good eating and good drinking! Over and above the regions amply merited reputation in this respect, wine and gastronomy form part of the values that you will regularly encounter in the course of your journey. In Burgundy, our chefs are also our wine ambassadors, at one with the winegrowers in their love of the soil. They will take great pleasure in introducing you to the world of wine, giving you the benefit of their advice and conjuring up an old bottle reserved for a special occasion. In short, Burgundy is a land where good food and good wine go hand in hand as you will have ample opportunity to attest! A moment of pure happiness is guaranteed, whether in the shape of a good old country snack (for example, a slice of parsleyed ham and a glass of red wine) in a wayside bistro, or a gastronomic feast accompanied by a vintage wine recommended by the wine waiter in a Michelin starred restaurant. And then of course there is the atmosphere of conviviality and good conversation without which no meal is ever complete.
09

The Yonne Wine Road (Route Touristique des Vignobles de lYonne) 5 circuits around Joigny, Chablis, Auxerre, Tonnerre and Vzelay
p. 28-31
The Coteaux de Pouilly-Sancerre Wine Road (Route des Coteaux de Pouilly-Sancerre). From Pouilly-surLoire to Cosne-Cours-sur-Loire
p. 32-35
The Grands Crus Wine Road (Route touristique des Grands Crus de Bourgogne) The Cte de Nuits, from Dijon to Corgoloin
p. 12-15
Nolay
The Grands Crus Wine Road (Route touristique des Grands Crus de Bourgogne) The Cte de Beaune, from Corgoloin to Santenay
p. 16-19
The Grands Vins Wine Road (Route touristique des Grands Vins). The Cte Chalonnaise, from Santenay to Saint-Gengoux-le-National
p. 20-23
The Mconnais-Beaujolais Wine Road (Route des Vins Mconnais-Beaujolais). From Saint-Gengoux-le-National to Romanche-Thorins
p. 24-27
10 w w w. b o u r g o g n e - t o u r i s m e . c o m
One road, many vineyards...
In search of in all its diversity J
Burgundy
ust like the localities through which it passes the Burgundy Wine Road has many facets, consisting of almost as many circuits as there are winegrowing areas to explore. Where wine is concerned, there is much more to Burgundy than the famous names of the Cte dOr, and the Wine Road takes us through a wealth of vineyards in the regions four administrative departments large and small, new and old, renowned or little known, on harsh plateaux or sunny slopes. Looking at the different itineraries one by one: the Grands Crus Wine Road leads us to the famous slopes of the Cte de Nuits and the Cte de Beaune, with some enticing excursions to their respective hautes ctes or back hills. As we continue south of the Cte de Beaune, we come to the Grands Vins Wine Road with the vineyards of the Couchois and the Cte Chalonnaise. Pushing further south, we pass through the vineyards of the Mconnais before ending our journey in the first outposts of the Beaujolais. In the Yonne department, less than an hours drive from Paris, you can choose between no fewer than five circuits to explore the wine areas of Joigny (the Jovinien), Chablis (the Chablisien), Auxerre (the Auxerrois), Tonnerre (the Tonnerrois) and Vzelay (the Vzelien). Last but not least, in the Nivre department, you will be able to explore the too-often overlooked vineyards of Pouilly and the Coteaux du Giennois, along the banks of the majestic river Loire. All these localities or terroirs, each with its distinctive character, await your visit. The Burgundy Wine Road, consistently and clearly signposted throughout, is liberally sprinkled with wine villages, sites of remarkable architectural beauty and wine cellars open to visitors. Burgundy requests the pleasure of your company: rpondez sil vous plat!
w w w. b o u r g o g n e - t o u r i s m e . c o m
11

THE GRAND CRUS WINE ROAD
Legendary Cte
de Nuits
The northern part of the Grands Crus Wine Road Burgundys Champs-Elyses is constituted by the Cte de Nuits, stretching from the gates of Dijon to the village of Corgolin. The names of the villages along the way read like a roll call of the greatest red wines in the world and include 24 of Burgundys 33 grands crus: Chambertin, Clos de Vougeot, Romane-Conti and so many others. Welcome to the legend!
Vosne-Romane
hile Burgundy is blessed with a large number of quality vineyards, the reputation it has built up over 2000 years ultimately rests with a thin strip of land stretching from north to south over a distance of 60 kilometres between Dijon and the Maranges region on the border between the Cte-dOr and Sane-et-Loire departments. Here, we are in the very heart of winegrowing Burgundy. The Cte, as it is called in these parts, faces east and south-east and backs onto the Burgundian uplands overlooking the Sane plain. It is divided into two sections: the Cte de Nuits in the north and the Cte de Beaune in the south. The former consists of a narrow band of vineyards, 20 km long and a few hundred yards wide, situated at an altitude of between 230 and 300 metres and on often steep slopes (up to 25%). TGV high speed train connections put Dijon only 100 minutes from Paris and 90 minutes
from Lyon, making it the ideal departure point for exploring the Grands Crus Wine Road. With its protected historical sector, much of it reserved for pedestrians, buildings representing all eras, parks and gardens, museums, etc., the former capital of the Dukes of Burgundy offers visitors a wide choice of things to do and see.
AT THE GATES OF DIJON

Vines were once grown in the western part of the town, on the hill which is in fact none other than the prolongation of the wine slopes. Nowadays, there is no longer a Cte Dijonnaise appellation, but the Town Council has kept a little vineyard (42 ares) in the Marcs dOr locality above the Fontaine dOuche quarter (near the Parc de la Combe Persil marking the start of the
Grands Crus Long-Distance Footpath (Grande randonne des Grands Crus). This parcel was replanted with Chardonnay vines in 1981. From here we drop down towards Chenve on the southern outskirts of Dijon. Tucked away behind the concrete faade of the newer districts lies a very picturesque old wine village, home to the old winepresses of the Burgundian Dukes: two splendid screw winepresses dating from the early 15th century housed in a prettily built storehouse. Marsannay-la-Cte, still in the Dijon area, marks the official beginning of the Cte de Nuits. It is the only place in Burgundy where red, white and ros wines are produced under the same communal appellation. As we make our way south along a little road running parallel to the main Dijon-Beaune road
12
The grand crus wine road

(the former RN74 trunk road), we go through the pretty wine village of Couchey before breaking our journey at Fixin. In addition to its spectacular cliffs, much frequented by rock climbers, and some remarkable buildings (churches, communal oven, washhouse), Fixin is associated with the memory of Napoleon Bonaparte in the shape of a museum (campaign souvenirs of a captain of the Imperial Guard) and the Parc Noisot (statue entitled Napoleons Awakening by the Dijon sculptor Franois Rude). The Park is named after a grognard, Napoleons name for his veteran soldiers. Before you leave Fixin, make sure you find time to take a look at the Domaine de la Perrire and its 12th century Cistercian manor, magnificently preserved within its walled vineyard by the family to which it has belonged for six generations.
THE OTHER WINE AREAS OF THE CTE-DOR

A wine department par excellence, the CtedOr takes its name from the colour of the wine slopes in autumn. Most of the vines are of course to be found on the famous Cte running from Dijon to Beaune. Most but not all, for one tends to forget the existence of other, smaller vineyards whose reputation is overshadowed by their distinguished neighbours on the Cte. This is the case of the once prosperous Chtillonnais Wine Area laid low by the epidemics off the late 19th century. A series of disastrous harvests then seemed to have signed the death warrant of winegrowing in the northern part of the department, but thanks to the unsparing efforts of a handful of enthusiasts, the vineyards have come back from the brink in the last 15 years. Production is now almost exclusively reserved for Crmant de Bourgogne (see box, page 29), and a Crmant Wine Road centred on Chtillon-sur-Seine is now being planned. Another little group of wine lovers was instrumental in breathing fresh life into the Auxois Wine Area. Since 1991, vines have once more graced the land between Villaines-les-Prvtes and Viserny where, over an area of 11 hectares, three grape varieties have been replanted (Chardonnay, Auxerrois, Pinot Noir) using the lyre-shaped training technique. The same approach has been used since 1997 on ten hectares or so in the neighbourhood of Flavigny-surOzerain. All this hard work has had its reward in the creation of a Vin de Pays des Coteaux de l'Auxois, just itching to find its niche in the Burgundy wine industry.
Dijon
IN THE LAND OF THE GREAT RED WINES

Once past Brochon and its Neo-Renaissance chteau, we enter the hallowed reserve of the great Burgundian red wines. The commune of Gevrey-Chambertin boasts no fewer than 9 grands crus and 26 premiers crus, including Napoleons favourite wine, the famous Chambertin. Incidentally, Gevrey was the first village of the Cte to earn the right, in 1847, to associate its name with its best cru or vineyard. The chteau of Gevrey-Chambertin still rises majestically from the midst of the vines, a handsome 10th century castle which has retained the somewhat severe character of Burgundian Romanesque architecture and today houses a wine property. A little road climbs up from the village towards the Hautes Ctes, passing through the nature reserve of Combe Lavaux (with its extraordinary array of sub-Mediterranean and prealpine flora) and upland villages such as
Nuits-Saint-Georges
www.bourgogne-tourisme.com 13

YOUR ITINERARY
Dijon-Corgoloin (29 km)
Via Chenve (km 6), Marsannay (km 9), Fixin (km 12), Gevrey-Chambertin (km 14), Morey-Saint-Denis (km 17), ChambolleMusigny (km 18), Vougeot (km 19), VosneRomane (km 21), Nuits-Saint-Georges (km 24) and Comblanchien (km 28). Marking: the Grands Crus Wine Road (Route touristique des Grands Crus de Bourgogne) is indicated by panels with a brown background showing a white bunch of grapes and indicating the itinerary to follow. The Wine Road runs parallel to the RN74 main road between Dijon and Beaune, and whenever possible follows little country roads. Walking and cycling: you can travel by car but also on foot or mountain bike thanks to the Grands Crus Long-Distance Footpath (Grande randonne des Grands Crus) (21 km, 6 to 7 hours on foot, red and yellow marking, for experienced hikers) which crosses the Cte de Nuits starting from Dijon (Parc de la Combe Persil) and finishes at PernandVergelesses (where you can continue as far as Santenay along the GR 7 long-distance footpath).
FROM LEGEND TO UNIVERSAL MYTH

At Vosne-Romane, 2 km to the south of Clos de Vougeot, we enter the holy of holies, for it is in this little village that Burgundys greatest red wines are to be found. There are seven grands crus including the mythical Romane Conti, the soul of discretion with its 1.8 ha of vineyards marked by a wayside cross and producing little more than 5000 bottles a year with which the world will somehow have to make do! And so we come to the world-renowned little town of Nuits-Saint-Georges, capital of the Cte de Nuits. The wine of Nuits has travelled through history and journeyed in space. It was prescribed as a remedy to Louis XIV, the Apollo 15 space mission named a crater on the moon after it (in honour of the heroes of Jules Vernes Around the Moon who opened a bottle of the nectar in their spacecraft), and of course it is at the origin of the internationally acclaimed Hospices de Nuits Wine Auction. But this little town has more to offer than its wine. Visitors will also be interested in the Muni-
Chteau du Clos de Vougeot
Chamboeuf and Vergy where, instead of retracing

your steps to Gevrey-Chambertin you can take another road and join up with the Grands Crus Wine Road at Nuits-Saint-Georges. The Wine Road heads south through a sea of vines, past a succession of low drystone walls and walled vineyards complete with elegant gateways, testifying to almost one thousand years of history. At Morey-Saint-Denis, the venerable Clos de Tart can take pride in the fact that it has changed hands only three times and has never been divided up since it was first planted in 1142. This is in sharp contrast with the world-renowned Clos de Vougeot which we come to a little further on, back on the RN74. The property belonged to the monks of Cteaux Abbey until the French Revolution. Its surface area has not changed since the 15th
century, but the number of its owners certainly has about one hundred at the last count! At the centre of this exceptional vineyard stands the Chteau du Clos de Vougeot, built during the Renaissance on the original 12th century wine buildings. The chteau still possesses a wine storehouse containing four massive oak winepresses, traditional kitchens and a vast cellar where the chapters of the famous Confrrie des Chevaliers du Tastevin (Brotherhood of the Knights of the Tastevin) are held. Not to be missed! On the other side of the main road, Gilly-lesCteaux heralds the nearby presence of the abbey which was to play such an important part in the history of wine in Burgundy and which thrives modestly to this day. It is only 10 km away and is well worth a visit.
cipal Museum, the excavations at the Gallo-Roman site of Les Bolards and the Cassissium (a museum area which is devoted to the blackcurrant and offers the opportunity to visit the Vdrenne liqueur factory. You can also make a little detour via Chaux and Villiers-la-Faye (15th century castle), the first stage of a fascinating route through the very different atmosphere of the Hautes Ctes. Back once more on the Wine Road, we go past Comblanchien, where stone from the quarries is exported throughout the world (pedestal of the Statue of Liberty, Pyramid of the Louvre, etc.), on the way to Corgolin, the last stop on our journey through the Cte de Nuits. Here we are transported back in time to the 18th century atmosphere of the Chteau de Cussigny (gas lighting, dovecote and forest railway line) as a prelude to our exploration of the Cte de Beaune (see circuit details on pages 16 to 19).
14
B.I.V.B. / D.R.
The grand crus wine road

ON THE WAY...
FACTS AND FIGURES
The Cte de Nuits Wine Area
Surface area: about 3400 hectares spread over 16 communes, including 682 hectares for the Bourgogne Hautes-Ctes de Nuits AOC zone which extends over a score or so of communes situated parallel to the Cte at an altitude of between 300 and 400 metres. Production: 149,000 hectolitres, i.e. almost 20 million bottles per year, with red wine accounting for over 85% of production. The great Cte de Nuits reds (Morey-Saint-Denis, Gevrey-Chambertin, Nuits-Saint-Georges, etc.) are reputed for their ageing qualities, their structure and their powerful flavour which makes them a perfect companion for game or mature cheese. Terroir: stony soil consisting of fallen rocks from the mid-Jurassic period mixed with red earth torn from the plateaux. The peculiar aptitude for producing great red wines may be attributed to these geological features together with the climate, the orientation of the wine slopes and the absence of rivers and streams. Grape varieties: Pinot Noir for reds; Chardonnay for whites and Aligot for the Aligot white wines. Crus: 24 grands crus (supreme accolade awarded to certain climats) are produced in the Cte de Nuits, in other words all the red Burgundy grands crus with the exception of Corton (in the Cte de Beaune). The bottle label gives the name of the climat followed by the expression grand cru: Chambertin, Chambertin-Clos de Bze, Chapelle-Chambertin, Charmes-Chambertin, Mazoyres-Chambertin, Griotte-Chambertin, Latricires-Chambertin, Mazis-Chambertin, Ruchottes-Chambertin, Clos Saint-Denis, Clos de la Roche, Clos des Lambrays, Clos de Tart, Musigny, Bonnes Mares, Clos Vougeot, Echzeaux, Grands Echezeaux, La Romane, La Romane-Conti, Romane Saint-Vivant, Richebourg, La Tche, La Grande Rue.
Throughout the route

The St-Vincent Tournante (wine festival): on the last
Saturday in January each year, to commemorate the feast of the patron saint of winegrowers, a Cte de Nuits village organises a festival which brings together winegrowers and confraternities around time-honoured rituals (procession with statues of the saint, mass, banquets and tasting sessions).
Events: at the beginning of September, Dijon is aroused by the International Folkloriades and Wine Festival (music and dance from all parts of the world); in early November, the International Gastronomic Fair has been a highlight of Dijon life for almost 80 years.
Couchey
To see: viewpoint and viewpoint
diagram above the village, at the entrance to the plateau.
Events: in September,
Chambertin Music Festival (concerts and wine).
Chambolle-Musigny
To see: lime tree (16C) and chteau (18C). To do: a short trip on board the
Escargot de la Cte, a little vineyard tourist train.
Events: in October, Fte du

Vin Nouveau (demonstration of traditional wine pressing and tasting of grape juice).
Chenve
To see: the old wine village and the winepresses of the Dukes of Burgundy (14C). Events: on the third weekend
in September, the Fte de la Presse celebrates the end of the grape harvest in the gaily-decorated old wine village.
Fixin
To see: Noisot Park and Museum, dedicated to Napoleon; village washhouse (1827); at the hamlet of Fixey, romantic little Romanesque church and communal lava-covered oven. To do: share a tart baked in
the communal oven of Fixey; heated each year to celebrate the beginning of the grape harvest.
Vougeot
To see: Chteau du Clos Vougeot, headquarters of the Confrrie des Chevaliers du Tastevin.
The Marathon des Grands Crus de Bourgogne: this

popular race is run in late October. It starts in Old Dijon, follows the Grands Crus Wine Road as far as Nuits-Saint-Georges and then returns to the Marathon Village at Marsannay-la-Cte.
Nuits-Saint-Georges
To see: church of St-Symphorien; municipal museum (archaeology, painting); the Cassissium, a museum area dedicated to the blackcurrant; the Imaginarium, dedicated to sparkling wine. To do: an excursion in the
Hautes-Ctes de Nuits (chteau at Concoeur-et-Corboin, church and museum at Reulle-Vergy, etc.).
Marsannay-la-Cte
To see: the Heritage Centre (Maison du Patrimoine) and its exhibition on the everyday life of winegrowers in 19th century Burgundy. To do: a walk through the
vineyards in the company of a geologist who explains the fascinating story of how a terroir is formed (details from the Tourist Office).
Dijon
To see: the old town and its protected sector (over 50 mansions, numerous churches); Palace of the Dukes and StatesGeneral of Burgundy, the Tower of Philippe-le-Bon (viewpoint); the Fine-Arts Museum and the tombs of the Dukes; the Well of Moses, masterpiece of Flemish sculpture (14C-15C). To do: visit the town at 6 kph
on a Segway along itineraries specially devised by the Dijon Tourist Office.
Gevrey-Chambertin
To see: beautiful, sturdy chteau (15C and 16C fortified cellar); the strange pink colour of the church of St-Agnan (12C-13C); the house of the Burgundian writer Gaston Roupnel (1872-1946); townhouse of the wine merchant Claude Jobert (17C). To do: nature and vineyard
walk in the Combe Lavaux area (specially prepared along the bottom of the coomb and signposted path following the crest).
Events: in March, Vente des

Vins des Hospices de Nuits (wine auction); in June, the Route du Cassis (rally in the Hautes-Ctes); in July, Sons d'une Nuits d't (Nuits-Saint-Georges Music Festival); in October, Fte du Vin Bourru (wine festival).
Events: in March, the Journes

Gourmandes (tasting of wines and local produce); end of September, the Rallye des Vendanges (cycling trek in the Hautes-Ctes).
15

THE GRANDS CRUS WINE ROAD
Prestigious Cte de Beaune

From Ladoix-Serrigny to the vineyards of the Maranges, the road continues along the foot of Cte de Beaune which prolongs the Cte de Nuits by a further 20 km to the south. Here, in the land where Chardonnay reigns supreme, are to be found the greatest dry white wines in the world (Corton-Charlemagne, Montrachet, etc.). Once past Beaune, the wine capital of Burgundy, the countryside becomes takes on a gentler look as we approach Santenay and the Sane-et-Loire department.
fter Corgoloin, the Grands Crus Wine Road slides imperceptibly from the Cte de Nuits to the Cte de Beaune, continuing along the RN 74 main road at the foot of a linear wine slope that remains sublimely oblivious of administrative boundaries. It is a gentle transition on this modest fault scarp wreathed in vine leaves, a sumptuous slope cast haughtily and negligently by the mountain towards the plain, in the words of the Burgundian writer Gaston Roupnel.
SOURCE OF PLEASURES
On this stretch of the Grands Crus Wine Road, the vineyards, which usually come to a halt when they reach the main road, now spill over to the other side. On the mountain side to the west, we find the vineyards of Corton and its grand crus; on the plain side to the east, we see the lesser-known vineyards of LadoixSerrigny which nevertheless produce pleasant, fine, supple and aromatic red wines. Taking its name from the Celtic word douix, meaning source, Ladoix (attached to the village of Serrigny since 1988), boasts a fountain from which pour forth the waters of the Lauve, a little river which also supplies a washhouse and a 17th century mill, before joining the river Rhoin 8 kilometres downstream at Ruffey-ls-Beaune. This is one of the oldest villages of the Cte, preserving
intact a remarkable architectural heritage: remains of the ancient sanctuary of La Douix at the chteau (in actual fact a fortified house restored in the 19th century by the Mrode family), turrets of the fortified farmhouses (14th and 15th centuries), etc. Enjoy a leisurely stroll through a wine village steeped in history. Over the past ten years or so, Ladoix-Serrigny has become known for its Balade Gourmand, a gastronomic walk which each summer attracts numerous lovers of good food: not so much a sporting event, more a pleasant walk punctuated with tempting halts at restaurants of repute in the enchanting setting of such premier cru plots as La Micaude, La Corve and Le Clou d'Orge!
16
The Grands Crus Wine Road

Kennedy and Guy de Maupassant who referred to it as the king of bon viveurs in one of his most famous short stories, Bel Ami. CortonCharlemagne, the fruit of a walled vineyard ceded to the collegiate church of Saulieu by the emperor Charlemagne in 775 AD, is a quite exceptional grand cru white wine: at once supple and sinewy, releasing aromas of cinnamon, exotic fruit and amber, and blessed with a concentration and balance allowing it to mature for at least 10 years. Legend has it that these south-facing parcels, originally consisting solely of the Pinot Noir grape variety, were planted with Chardonnay so as to prevent the red wine from staining the white and hoary beard of Charlemagne, increasingly prone to trembling as he advanced in years! At the foot of this exceptional locality, PernandVergelesses is almost a picture postcard of a Burgundian wine village, with its traditional houses huddled around a church with varnished-tile roof, its steep little streets and the surrounding vineyards. Above the village, we can explore the vineyards and woods of the Hautes-Ctes de Beaune, heading for Magnyls-Villers, reputed for the typicity of its Aligot for over a hundred years, or for Echevronne, better known for its red fruit (raspberries, redcurrant and black currant), which are here transformed into creams, liqueurs and jams.
Pernand-Vergelesses
WELCOME TO THE HAUTES-CTES

Pending the creation of specific itineraries, you can enjoy a host of possible routes linking the Grands Crus Wine Road to the very different but equally fascinating Hautes-Ctes: wilder and more rustic, at times even harsh and remote. Here, vineyards share the limelight with farmland, deep coombs and wooded stretches heavy with the scent of the juniper tree. The expression Hautes-Ctes took the place of Arrire-Cte in 1927, the result of pressure from local agricultural and wine associations anxious to share in the renown of the Cte and its wines. The expression refers to the plateau situated between the Cte and the Ouche Valley at an average altitude of 300 to 400 metres. The plateau is usually reached via rocky and woody coombs, dry valleys carved at right angles to the Cte and similar to the recules or blind valleys of the Jura. A distinction is made between the Hautes-Ctes de Nuits in the north (the Vergy area, accessible from Gevrey-Chambertin, Chambolle-Musigny, Nuits-Saint-Georges or Comblanchien) and the Hautes-Ctes de Beaune in the south (reached by LadoixSerrigny, Beaune, Pommard and Meursault). As far as wine is concerned, the Hautes-Ctes have two regional AOC appellations red (Pinot Noir) and white (Chardonnay): Hautes-Ctes de Beaune (496 ha, 20,559 hl of red wine; 4689 hl of white wine)* and HautesCtes de Nuits (682 ha, 22,957 hl of red wine; 5107 hl of white wine)*. The wines are for the most part sturdy, firm and solid reds which need to mature to give of their best. *Areas in production in 2005; average annual yields over 5 years (2001-2005). Source: BIVB.
Beaune
THAT MAN CHARLEMAGNE!

On the other side of the road, the famous Montagne de Corton, a gently rounded hill situated above Aloxe-Corton (to the east), Ladoix-Serrigny (to the north) and PernandVergelesses (to the west) attracts many an admiring glance. The hill is topped by a wood from which rises the white statue of NotreDame de Bonne Esprance (Our Lady of Good Hope). The hill is encircled by magnificent terroirs producing some of the greatest wines of the Cte de Beaune: Corton and Corton-Charlemagne, for the red and white crus respectively. The former, originating from a stony parcel on the sunniest part of the mountain, was the favourite wine of Voltaire, John Fitzgerald
BURGUNDY WINE CAPITAL

The Grands Crus Wine Road now eschews the main road and reaches Beaune via small roads running past the vineyards. Our route takes us through the vineyards of Savigny-les-Beaune. The sight of a fighter plane protruding between the vines is not a figment of your (wine stimulated?) imagination, but a foretaste of the
17

YOUR ITINERARY
Ladoix-Serrigny Santenay (38 km by the main itinerary)
By way of Aloxe-Corton (km 3), PernandVergelesses (km 5), Savigny-ls-Beaune (km 9), Beaune (km 15), Pommard (km 19), Volnay (km 21), Monthlie (km 23), Meursault (km 25), Puligny-Montrachet (km 29), Chassagne-Montrachet (km 33). At Monthlie, possible detour via AuxeyDuresses, La Rochepot, Saint-Aubin, then return to the main itinerary a little before Chassagne-Montrachet.
FACTS AND FIGURES

The Cte de Beaune wine area
Surface area: about 6400 hectares, including 496 hectares for the AOC Bourgogne Hautes-Ctes de Beaune. Production: 310,000 hectolitres, i.e. more than 40 million bottles per year (55%) in red wine. Terroir: marly limestone and marl from the middle and upper Jurassic period (generally younger than the soils of the Cte de Nuits). Grape varieties: Pinot Noir and (locally) Gamay for the red wines, Chardonnay and Aligot for the whites. Crus: apart from the Corton (red and white grand cru), the grands crus of the Cte de Beaune are all whites: Corton-Charlemagne, Btard-Montrachet, Montrachet, BienvenueBtard-Montrachet, Chevalier-Montrachet, Criots-Btard-Montrachet. The grands crus of the Montrachet bring together all the qualities of white burgundies: aromatic complexity, strength, firmness and mellowness combined with grace.
impressive collection of vintage vehicles (motorcycles and racing cars as well as aircraft) on display at the castle. Back in the village, we are once more in the heart of the Cte, as testified by Nolay the inscriptions etched on the pediments of certain houses, singing the praises of the local wines as being, for example, nourish-ing, theological and death-repellent! We now move to the other side of the A6 motorway, which climbs up towards Paris via the Col (pass) de Bessey-en-Chaule, on our way to first Bouze-les-Beaune and then the Montagne de Beaune. From here there is a marvellous view over the carpet of vineyards stretching gently down as far as the outskirts of Beaune, with the ramparts encircling and protecting the town beyond. It was within these walls that most of the great wine merchants settled in the 18h century, helping to develop and consolidate the potential of the Burgundy wine business. In addition to the cellars of the splendid wine houses (where millions of bottles are religiously stored) and of course the Htel-Dieu (one of the most visited monuments in the country), we discover a town of great architectural and artistic interest. It is a town famous for the good things in life but paradoxically also a secret and mysterious place, full of silent streets protected by high walls.
THE CTE
DES BLANCS
South of Beaune, the Cte starts to curve away, giving way to a rounder, greener, more open landscape. As we draw nearer to the Sane-etLoire department, we leave behind us the austere world of Cteaux and gradually enter the less rigorous universe of Cluny. Once past the charming villages of Pommard and Volnay, reputed for their great red wines, we penetrate the Cte des Blancs which, while it does not correspond to an official appellation, nevertheless perfectly describes the geological reality of the terroirs of Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet and Chassagne-Montrachet, all particularly well suited to the Chardonnay grape by virtue of their marly, limestone and gravelly soils. At Monthlie, considered by some as the cradle of Burgundy wines at the time of the Celts, the Grands Crus Wine Road splits into two
Auxey-Duresses
Beaune
18
The Grands Crus Wine Road

branches, leaving you free to choose between the High Road and the Low Road. The High Road takes you to Saint-Aubin, at the frontier between the Cte and Hautes-Ctes, via La Rochepot whose famous chteau with its multi-coloured roof has become a symbol for the whole of Burgundy. You can also make a detour by Saint-Romain, an authentic village perched atop a spectacular cliff. The Low Road leads to Meursault, a charming wine village which was the setting for the muchloved film La Grande Vadrouille, and whose cellars contain a little matter of 800,000 bottles of wine! Next come the villages of Puligny-Montrachet and Chassagne-Montrachet which hold the distinction of possessing no fewer than five divine white grands crus, at once structured, harmonious and blessed with a wholly remarkable finesse. Their number includes the Montrachet, considered by Burgundy folk as the greatest white wine in the world. Alexandre Dumas recommended that it should be drunk on bended knee and bare-headed. A unique, quasi-mystical experience to be savoured in one of the numerous cellars along the way. The Grands Crus Wine Road comes to an end at Sante-
ON THE WAY...
Ladoix-Serrigny
To see: the Gallo-Roman stele
on the farm of Neuvelle; the chapel of Notre-Dame du Chemin (11C, rebuilt in the 15C); the church (13C) and its Eucharistic oculus (16C); the mill on the river Lauve (17C); the washhouse at Le Buisson.
Santenay
Beaune
To see: the Htel-Dieu; NotreDame collegiate church; the old town and its mansions; the cellars of the great wine merchants; the traditional Fallot mustard factory. To do: visiting the town in the
Visiotrain (tourist train); learning about wine at the Ecole des Vins de Bourgogne (weekend sessions, wine courses, lectures with tasting, etc.).
Saint-Romain
To see: two cooperages,
including one founded in 1910.
La Rochepot
To see: the chteau, one of the glories of Burgundian architectural heritage.
Event: 1st Sunday in July:

Balade Gourmande (Gastronomic Jaunt) in the vineyards.
Meursault
To see: the town hall and its
polychrome roofs; the domain of the Chteau de Meursault possessing one of the largest wine cellars in Burgundy.
nay, a few kilometres further on. This bustling little town possesses thermal waters and a casino as well as vineyards. After visiting the local sights (the largest plane tree in France, a chteau with its wine domain, an old restored windmill, the church of Narosse, etc.), you might feel like journeying to the top of the Mont de Sne where you can enjoy sweeping views over the region in all directions. After that you can continue on your way to the distinctive Maranges area which serves as the junction with the Cte Chalonnaise. But that is another story and another wine road (see pages 20 to 23).
Events: June to September,

Cours, Eau, Jardins festival (music, dance and poetry); in July, International Festival of Baroque Opera; 3rd weekend in November, Hospices de Beaune Wine Auction.
Pernand-Vergelesses
To see: the wine village, old houses, church, fountain and washhouses, etc. To do: climb up to admire the view from the oratory of NotreDame de Bonne Esprance.
Pommard
To see: the olfactory itinerary of the Chteau de Meursault and its domain (16C winepress, vaulted 18C cellars).
To do: a birds eye view of the vineyards from the vantage point of a hot-air balloon with the Ballons libres de Cte-d'Or association (Montgolfiades de Meursault Festival in June). Events: 3rd Monday in November, the Paule de Meursault (banquet) and literature prize (at the chteau); in July, De Bach Bacchus festival (concerts and wine tasting).
Savigny-ls-Beaune
To see: the chteau with
its wine property and the Motorcycle, Aviation and Racing Car Museum; the Romanesque church (15C fresco);
Volnay
To see: the chapel of NotreDame de Piti (16C); the church of St-Cyr (14C); the view from Notre-Dame-des-Vignes, 2,25 m cast iron statue(19C).
To do: take part in a gotaillon (banquet) hosted by the Confrrie de la Cousinerie de Bourgogne in the village wine cellar.
Santenay
To see: the Sorine windmill (Windmill Festival in September); the church of St-Jean-de-Narosse (15C) on the Falaise des Trois-Croix (Cliff of the Three Crosses). To do: try your luck with the onearmed bandits at the casino; attend a chapter meeting of the Confrrie des Grumeurs (Brotherhood of Winegrowers) at the Chteau du Hardi.
Monthelie
To see: the church of St-Germain (12C); the chteau (18C); the old houses in the village. Events: in May, the Printemps de
Monthlie (spring festival); early July, the Monthlie Festival (outdoor spectacles, cellars open, activities etc.).
Events: 1st weekend in May, Welcome to Savigny (operation Open Cellars); 3rd weekend in October, the Foule des Vendanges (foot race in the heart of the vineyards).
19

THE GRANDS VINS WINE ROAD
Out and About in the Cte Chalonnaise

From Santenay to Saint-Gengoux-le-National, the Grands Vins Wine Road prolongs the Grands Crus Wine Road towards the south: a signposted itinerary of over one hundred kilometres linking some 40 communes through the vineyards of the Maranges, the Couchois and the Cte Chalonnaise. This varied itinerary blends village and nature, vineyard and hedged farmland, Romanesque churches and chteaux, and is yours to explore by car, on a boat along the Canal du Centre, or on your bike along the Voie Verte (no motorised traffic allowed).
he vineyards of the Cte Chalonnaise date back to the Roman conquest and developed in the Middle Ages largely because the commercial centre of Chalon-surSane was situated on a navigable waterway. Seemingly lost beyond repair as a result of the phylloxera scourge in the 19th century, the Cte made a belated recovery when noble grape varieties were once more planted on the best slopes. Recognition came in 1990 in the shape of the appellation d'origine contrle (AOC) Bourgogne Cte Chalonnaise. Today this new wine area is going from strength to strength.
IN THE
ROAMING AT WILL COUCHOIS AREA

Saint-Gengoux-le-National
Starting from Santenay, where we said goodbye to the Grands Crus Wine Road (see pages 12 to 19), we get off to a good start with a loop in the Maranges area: charming and authentic villages clinging to the sides of vine-clad hills, rustic winegrowers houses hidden behind old porches, a smiling countryside dotted with coppices and little valleys, cliffs perfect for rock-climbing and numerous viewpoints (Mont de Rome, Mont de Sne), etc. The quasi-monastic austerity of the Cte de Nuits is now but a distant memory in
this land where a pleasant surprise awaits you at every turning: Dezize-ls-Maranges on its hill, Sampigny-ls-Maranges on the banks of the Cozanne and Cheilly-ls-Maranges on the river Dheune. These three villages, deep in the heart of Burgundy, are responsible for seven Pinot Noir premiers crus (AOC Maranges). This is the most recent appellation of the Cte de Beaune which comes to an end here, on the border of the Cte dOr and Sane-et-Loire departments.
20
The Grands Vins wine road

There are magnificent views to be enjoyed as you drop down from Dezize- ls-Maranges towards Paris-l'Hpital. At this point you can choose between continuing on the main itinerary to Sampigny-ls-Maranges, alongside the Cozanne river with its little waterfalls, or making a detour through the Couchois area on the secondary itinerary (20 km) before joining up with the main itinerary further south, between Aluze and Mercurey. This is an excellent opportunity to discover a little-known area, marked by history (Chteau de Marguerite de Bourgogne at Couches, Chteau de Dracy) and by the industrial saga of nearby Le Creusot. For it was here in the 19th century that the Schneider family found the iron ore they so desperately needed. From 1840 to 1950, the exploitation of this precious commodity was the economic backbone of the region. In the process Couches changed its name to Couches-les-Mines, before recently becoming Couches-les-Vignes, the producer of robust, sturdy wines reflecting the character of the locality under the regional Ctes du Couchois appellation. After Couches, we cross the Canal du Centre at Saint-Lger-surDheune where you can try your hand at inland waterway navigation (little house barges for hire at the marina) and travel down the canal to Chalon-sur-Sane. If you prefer, you can also cover this 35 km stretch on rollerblade or bicycle along the Voie Verte, a tarmac route reserved for non-motorised traffic and running along the canal towpath between the two towns. In this case, we meet up with the main itinerary at Chagny, the first major stop on the Grands Vins Wine Road, a few kilometres after the departure point at Santenay. Chagny is a port of call on the Canal du Centre and the home of the great chef Lameloise. It is also a pleasant holiday centre noted for its many fine buildings.
ONE WINE AREA, FOUR GRAPE VARIETIES

Four legendary grape varieties are to be found in the Cte Chalonnaise: Pinot noir which, right from the origins of wine in Burgundy, has been instrumental in establishing the reputation of its great red wines. The vine produces purplish-black bunches whose little berries contain an abundant, colourless and sugary juice. It goes into the composition of the Rully, Mercurey and Givry appellations. Chardonnay is to white wine what Pinot is to red wine, and is the force behind the great whites of Burgundy, particularly those of the Cte Chalonnaise. It produces golden clusters, as small as those of the Pinot Noir but more elongated and thicker, giving a deliciously sugary white juice. Chardonnay grapes are found in the Rully, Mercurey, Givry and Montagny appellations. Aligot goes back a long way in Burgundy. Its grapes are larger and more plentiful than those of the Chardonnay. They produce all the Burgundy Aligots and, in the Cte Chalonnaise, the Bouzeron (the first communal appellation for this variety in Burgundy). Gamay a fairly fertile young plant originating from the village of the same name in the commune of Saint-Aubin in the Cte de Beaune. On the granite slopes of the Mconnais and the Beaujolais, the white juice of the Gamay Noir produces fine, pleasant red wines with a good bouquet, whereas it gives a more brutish wine on the clay-limestone soil of the Cte-dOr. In the Cte Chalonnaise it is sometimes used in the making of Crmant de Bourgogne.
OF
THE OPULENT VINEYARDS RULLY AND MERCUREY
Mercurey
At this point you are free once again to leave the main itinerary and set off on one of those delightful little byways for which the Cte Chalonnaise is noted: a little country road lined with low drystone walls and punctuated with wayside crosses, communal ovens and beautifully preserved little churches and traditional houses. A paradise for walkers! This little back road takes you to Bouzeron, famous for the quality of its Aligot wines (as you enter the village, a sign proudly announces A little village, a great wine). Then you come to Chassey-le-Camp, celebrated for its archaeological site (from which the term chassen, denoting a particular Neolithic civilisation, is derived). We come back to the main road at the hilltop village of Aluze, where the houses seem to huddle for protection around the church, between Rully and Mercurey. We now penetrate a more bourgeois part of the Cte Chalonnaise where wine is the source of both its reputation and its wealth. Premiers crus follow in quick succession and a host of wine properties beckon you to their cool cellars or summon you to taste their wines in the sublime setting of venerable mansions, some of which are veritable little chteaux! Any list of fine wines must include the name of Rully, a large village which is equally at home in producing red, white and Crmant wines. Rully boasts one of the best preserved chteaux in the Cte Chalonnaise, the
21

property of Montessus family for the last four centuries and a match for the sumptuous 19th century mansions gracing the village. The affluent little town of Mercurey is also renowned for its red wines, some of which bear comparison with the grands crus of the Cte de Beaune. The longstanding wealth of the wine bourgeoisie is reflected in the succession of winegrowers houses and attractive residences lining the principal street.
FACTS AND FIGURES

The Maranges, Couchois and Cte Chalonnaise wine areas.
The Maranges communal appellation occupies the southernmost tip of the Cte de Beaune, of which it forms part, covering the villages of Dezize, Sampigny and Cheilly-lesMaranges. It produces red wines for ageing with aromas of red fruit and hints of flowers. The Couchois wine area has more in common with the Hautes-Ctes de Beaune, producing robust and coloured wines under the regional Bourgogne Ctes du Couchois appellation. The Cte Chalonnaise wine area is the natural prolongation of the Cte de Beaune, with identical geological features and grape varieties. Such is the reputation of its wines nowadays that many consider them to represent the best value for money in Burgundy. - Surface area: about 4800 hectares of vines, covering a strip 25 km long and 7 km wide. - Terroir: clay-limestone soil dating from the Jurassic period (clay favourable for Chardonnay); vineyard altitude varying from 250 to 370 metres. - Grape varieties: reds - Pinot Noir and Gamay (around Buxy and in the Couchois); whites - Chardonnay and Aligot (especially at Bouzeron). - Production: 237,000 hectolitres, i.e. over 30 million bottles per year, spread roughly equally between red wines (55%) and whites including Crmant. - Wines: 5 communal appellations (Bouzeron, Mercurey, Rully, Givry and Montagny) of which 2 are for white wine only (Bouzeron and Montagny), the rest being regional appellations (the Bourgogne Cte Chalonnaise appellation has existed since 1990). The most characteristic reds (Mercurey, Givry) are well-structured and fruity wines for ageing (reaching full maturity after 5 to 8 years) with aromas of morello cherry and blackcurrant. The best white vintages (Montagny, Rully) are delicate, quality wines of a beautiful gold colour with green tints.
YOUR ITINERARY
Santenay - St-Gengoux-le-National (75 km)

Principal itinerary via Cheilly-ls-Maranges, Sampigny-ls-Maranges, Dezize-ls-Maranges, Chagny, Rully, Aluze, Mercurey, Mellecey, Givry, Moroges, Saint-Dsert, Buxy, Montagny-ls-Buxy, Chenves, Saint-Boil.
Variants
Ctes du Couchois: about 24 km between Paris-l'Hpital and Charrecey. Bouzeron: about 10 km between Chagny and Aluze. Valle des Vaux: about 12 km between Mercurey and Jambles.
A TASTE OF THE SOUTH

Between Mercurey and Givry, we once more turn our back on the main itinerary and set off in search of one of the gems of the Cte Chalonnaise, the lush, green Valle des Vaux which follows the course of the river Orbise. The valley is watched over by the Chteau de Germolles (12C-14C), the only one of the fortresses of the Dukes of Burgundy still standing today. One cannot fail to be overwhelmed by the simple beauty of the wine slopes, the authentic charm of the villages and the harmony of landscapes combining vine and pasture, orchard and untrammelled undergrowth. Givry leaves a more imposing impression with its fortified buildings, its handsome circular market hall, its clock tower spanning the street and its monumental church built to an astonishing circular plan and crowned by an imposing dome. This captivating town is also the point of departure for the Voie Verte running from Cluny to Charnay-les-Mcon, 65 kilometres to the south, following the track of a disused railway line. Running parallel to the Voie Verte (no motorised vehicles allowed!), the Grands Vins Wine Road continues on its way towards the south, sometimes below and sometimes atop the vineyards. At Jambles, it passes close to Mont Avril (421 m) and yet more villages: the medieval castle at Moroges, the
fortified Neo-gothic church at Saint-Dsert, the Romanesque church covered with lava at Rosey, etc. In short, even the smallest village has something of interest to offer. Make sure you find time to visit Buxy and its beautifully restored town centre. The church, with a medieval tower linked to the clock-tower by a footbridge is particularly worthy of your attention. A little further on, Montagny awaits you, its little streets laid with paving stones.
22
The Grands Vins wine road

ON THE WAY...
Throughout the itinerary
La Chasse aux trsors (treasure hunt): in April, the
Grands Vins Wine Road organises a weekend rally for motorists and cyclists: a fun way to discover the vineyards and meet the winegrowers through a series of riddles. square and the market of the Cathedral of Saint-Vincent; the Niepce Museum (dedicated to the inventor of photography). Germolles at Mellecey (14C).
Event : early July, Chalon dans

la Rue (street festival).
Chagny
To see: the old hospital
pharmacy.
To do: hiking on the Mont Avril nature trail (departure from Cercot near Jambles); cycling or roller-skating along the Voie Verte as far as Mcon. Events: early July, Les Musicaves (music and wine); early April, wine market under the circular market hall.
In the Maranges
To see: views in all directions
from the top of the Mont de Rome (545 m); the old winegrowers houses in the villages of Sampigny-ls-Maranges and Dezize-ls-Maranges.
To do: a houseboat outing on

the Canal du Centre.
Rully
To see: the medieval fortress
of the Chteau de Rully and its wine estate.
Buxy
To see: the church (12C); the Wine Museum; the medieval houses (staircase turrets). To do: sampling vintage wines in the converted cellar of the Tour Rouge, a remnant of the villages old castle. Events: early July, Les Musicarires (street spectacles under the aegis of the Montagny appellation).
Couches
Climb to the top of the village for a magnificent view of 300 hectares of vineyards producing its famous white wine. Saint-Gengoux-le-National is the end of the line as far as this infinitely captivating Grands Vins Wine Road is concerned. It is a quiet and flourishing shopping town, with the medieval district backing on to Mont Goubot, its
vast promenade lined with plane trees and enticing terraces. Here, the air is softer and balmier, the walls more colourful, the tiles on the roofs rounder. In short, the vineyards have an unmistakable southern look about them. Indeed, if we continue towards the south we will very soon come to the Mconnais (see pages 24 to 27).
To do: rock-climbing on the

cliffs of the Mont de Rome.
Event: in April, Rully Millsime (wine tasting in the cellar of Rully Producers Union).
Event: early April, Du ct des

Maranges (wine cellars open to the public and various activities).
Mercurey
To see: the little village of
Touches, its beautiful winegrowers houses and Romanesque church.
In the Couchois
To see: the Chteau de
Marguerite de Bourgogne at Couches; the little wine museum on the property of La Tour Bajole at Saint-Maurice-les-Couches.
To do: attend a chapter of the

Confrrie Saint-Vincent et des Disciples de la Chanteflte at the Chteau de Garnerot.
Saint-Gengoux-le-National
To see: the old houses (Maison du Prieur, Maison des Concurs, Maison du Bailli, etc.); the church built by the monks of Cluny. To do: an excursion to Cullesles-Roches (6 km to the north), pretty, typically Burgundian little village, situated at the foot of a cliff.
Events: early August, La Ronde du Couchois (wine cellars open to the public); early July, jazz festival at Couches.
Givry
To see: the Town Hall, built in the old clock tower; the market hall (19C); the church built to a circular plan, masterpiece of late 18C architecture; the Chteau de
Chalon-sur-Sane
To see: the Old Town, the
23

THE MCONNAIS-BEAUJOLAIS WINE ROAD
The Call of the
South
S
tarting at Saint-Gengoux-le-National, we leave the vineyards for a while and take the pretty little D67 minor road which carries us from the Cte Chalonnaise to the Mconnais via Chapaize at the nor thern limit of the Cluny area. The remarkable village church, built around the year 1000, reminds us of the important role played by religion in the vicinity. Indeed Cluny, the old Light of Christianity, is no more than 20 km to the south-east; the ecumenical community of Taiz, where the late lamented Brother Roger officiated, is even nearer; Tournus and the abbeychurch of Saint-Philiber t (similar in architecture to the church of Chapaize) a mere 15 km to the east as the crow flies. These and other sites are well worth a detour for all those interested in history, particularly religious history. Indicated by the Suivez la grappe panels showing a smiling young girl wreathed in golden clusters of grapes, one of the 8 circuits of the Mconnais-Beaujolais Wine Road (Circuit 4, 90 km) takes you into the heart of the Cluny area which has succeeded in preser ving its architectural heritage although it has lost most of its vineyards.
Cluny
The Mconnais-Beaujolais Wine Road prolongs the Grands Vins Wine Road towards the south and constitutes the last stage of our long, uninterrupted journey through the vineyards which started back in Dijon. The main itinerary leads more or less directly through the vineyards of the Mconnais to Romanche-Thorins in the Sane-et-Loire department, but there are eight circuits in all taking you into the depths of the most southerly of the Burgundy wine areas. Suivez la grappe - just follow the sign of the grape bunch!
24
The Mconnais-Beaujolais Wine Road

BETWEEN CLUNY AND TOURNUS
Continuing along the main itinerary, we quickly make our way to Brancion. This gateway to the Mconnais wine area is situated at an altitude of 400 m on a rocky spur commanding the passage between the Sane valley to the east and the Grosne valley in the west. Echoes of this strategic position live on today in the shape of a medieval village grouped around the remains of the old feudal castle in an exceptional setting. The view over the entire region from the top of the keep gives a very clear picture of the transition from the winegrowing Mconnais in the south, with its of the hills. A few kilometres further on, Bissy-la-Mconnaise confirms what we had already half suspected: we have left Tournus and the world of the Burgundian dukes behind us, and have entered the very different world of the Mconnais. From now on, the local patois has more in common with the dialects of the south (Languedoc, the language of Oc), the flat-tiled roofs give way to the flatter tiles and less steeply inclined roofs of the south, the fronts of houses are now graced with a gallery reached from an outside staircase under which lies the entrance to a vaulted cellar, and so on.
MAKING SENSE OF THE

DIFFERENT APPELLATIONS
Its not always easy to find ones way about the information contained on the labels of wine bottles. But in actual fact Burgundy wines are classified according to very precise rules which are quite simple once you get the hang of them. There are four appellation levels: - The regional appellation concerns wines produced in three departments (Yonne, Cte d'Or and Sane et Loire). It may be followed by the name of the grape variety (for example, Bourgogne Aligot) or a production area (for example, Bourgogne Cte Chalonnaise). There are 23 regional appellations in Burgundy (53% of production). - The communal appellation refers to the wines produced on the territory of a wine commune (village) from which it takes its name (for example, Saint-Vran or Beaune). There are 44 communal appellations in Burgundy (35% of production). - The premier cru designation is an additional criterion of quality concerning the communal appellations produced on a particular climat, that is to say a precisely delimited parcel whose name may appear on the label (for example, Beaune Premier Cru Les Grves). There are 622 climats classified as premiers crus (10% of production). - Lastly, the grand cru appellation is the supreme accolade for wines produced on the best climats (for example, Montrachet, Corton, Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos). There are 32 grands crus in the Cte-d'Or and 1 in Chablis (on 7 different climats) representing less than 2% of wine production in Burgundy. In 2005 total production came to 176 million bottles, spread over 101 appellations dorigine contrles (AOC) and together representing the scope and richness of the Burgundian wine area.
Chanes
Blanot
vine-clad slopes and often bare hilltops (the upland cras conducive to sheep farming), and the greener more densely wooded relief of the pastoral Cluny countryside to the west. Once we get past Martailly-ls-Brancion, the itinerary once again becomes more direct, following little country roads south alongside the Monts du Mconnais, parallel to the Sane and the A6 motorway on the other side
In short, there is a definite air of the south, as seen also in landscapes characterised by mixed farming (winegrowing but also crop and livestock farming).
CHARDONNAY COUNTRY
Like most of its counterparts in other parts of Burgundy, the Mconnais winegrowing area dates back to the Roman era (the 3rd century AD).
As elsewhere, it was expanded and developed by monks, this time Cluniacs and not Cistercians. With the exception of the area around Lugny and the southern part of the winegrowing sector, the Mconnais was planted almost exclusively in Gamay until the 18th century. But as from 1810, the Chardonnay grape variety, taking its name from a local village 6 km south-east of Martaillyls-Brancion, started to gain the ascendancy and today accounts for 85% of plantations. Apart from the predominance of white wines, the Mconnais is notable for its long tradition of cooperative cellars, thirteen of which are still active today. These are mostly in the northern part, in places like Lugny (3 km from Bissy-laMconnaise, on Circuit 2) which has the largest cooperative in the area. As is usually the case, its members products (white, red and ros wines, Crmant de Bourgogne) are available for sale in a specially prepared tasting cellar. The wine storehouse can be visited, and once a year a special open day is organised. In short, a visit to a cooperative is an excellent way to get to
25

YOUR ITINERARY
From Saint-Gengoux-le-National to Romanche-Thorins (about 70 km)
In addition to the signposting common to all the Burgundy Wine Roads (panel showing a white bunch of grapes on a brown background), the MconnaisBeaujolais Wine Road is marked by a thousand Suivez la grappe (Follow the Bunch of Grapes) signs depicting a young girl with a bunch of grapes on her head. PRINCIPAL ITINERARY Via Chapaize, Brancion, Bissy-la-Mconnaise, Saint-Gengoux-de-Sciss, Az, Ig, Verz, La RocheVineuse, Bussires, Pierreclos, Serrires, Chasselas, Saint-Vrand, Saint-Amour-Bellevue, La Chapellede-Guinchay. SECONDARY CIRCUITS In addition to the main itinerary, there is a choice of 8 tourist, cultural and gastronomic circuits with a total of 64 stopovers: - Circuit n 1: 42 km between Tournus and Brancion. (10 stages) - Circuit n 2: 60 km between Bissy-la-Mconnaise and Fleurville on the banks if the Sane. (9 stages) - Circuit n 3: 40 km between Verz and Mcon. (9 stages) - Circuit n 4: 90 km between Chapaize and Cluny. (9 stages) - Circuit n 5: 50 km between La Roche-Vineuse and Saint-Point in the footsteps of Lamartine. (11 stages) - Circuit n 6: 40 km between Chnes and Mcon. (9 stages) - Circuit n 7: 25 km between Vinzelles, Vergisson and Solutr-Pouilly. (3 stages) - Circuit n 8: 45 km between Romanche-Thorins and Crches-sur-Sane. (5 stages)
know t h e various appellations and find out more about the world of winegrowing in the Mconnais. Leaving to our east the villages of Vir and Cless, producers of a white wine of repute (the VirCless communal appellation was obtained in 1997, the hundredth and last but one AOC for Burgundy wines at the time of writing), the MconnaisBeaujolais Wine Road continues on its leisurely s o u t h w a rd journey, building up an impressive collection of place names ending with the letter : Saint-Gengoux-deSciss, Az, Ig, Verz, etc., not to mention cellars, estates, Romanesque churches, traditional houses and viewpoints at every turning. Once we get to
the aptly named La RocheVineuse, we are ready to follow in the footsteps of the poet Alphonse de Lamartine (Circuit 5, 50 km): a literary and nostalgic pilgrimage from the family house of Milly to the chteaux he frequented (Pierreclos, SaintPoint, Priss-Montceau, and so on), not forgetting the villages inhabited by his friends (Berz-laVille, Tramayes, etc.). Mcon with its Lamartine Museum, its old district and its shops is no more than 10 kilometres away.
FACTS AND FIGURES

The Mconnais Wine Area
Surface area: 6200 hectares (the largest wine area in Burgundy), over a stretch 35 km long (from Sennecey-leGrand in the north to Saint-Vrand in the south) and 10 km wide (between the Grosne valley in the west and the Sane valley in the east). Terroir: clay-limestone of the Jurassic period. Limestone or calcic soils for the Chardonnay; siliceous, clayey or sandy soils, often mixed with gravel (sandstone pebbles) for the Gamay. Grape varieties: Chardonnay for white wines (85% of plantations), Gamay Noir (white juice) for red Mcon wines; Pinot Noir locally. Production: 411,000 hectolitres, i.e. almost 55 million bottles per year, including 85% in white wine and 20% in communal appellations (Saint-Vran, Pouilly-Fuiss, Pouilly-Loch, Pouilly-Vinzelles, Vir-Cless). Wines: dry white wines characterised by floral and fruity aromas with typically Chardonnay traces of almond and hazelnut. The character of the Mcon rouge depends on the locality. If it comes from clay-limestone soil, it will be fresh and light and should be drunk young. On the granite or siliceous soil in the southern part of the Mconnais it becomes fleshy and full-bodied, and should be left to mature for a while in order to bring out its aromas of spices and cooked fruits.
GREAT WHITE WINES AND A WINDMILL!

Bussires marks the entrance to the southern part of the wine area, home to the finest vintages of the Mconnais. Prosperity came early to this area which is almost entirely devoted to winegrowing and where private cellars
26
The Mconnais-Beaujolais Wine Road

ON THE WAY...
letter d at the end, though no-one quite knows why), another white wine reputed for its finesse and elegance, signals the end of the Mconnais wine area. Beyond this point, the Wine road continues along the little strip of the Sane-etLoire that juts into the Rhne department. The vineyards are still all around us but they are now part of the Beaujolais. Although the wines of Beaujolais have been officially classified since 1930 as part of the Burgundy wine area, they in fact fall into a very different category, and are considered as foreign. Nevertheless the vintages of this Burgundian peninsula Chnas, Julinas, Saint-Amour, Moulin--Vent, etc. coexist peacefully with their northern neighbours. After La Chapelle-de-Guinchay, the MconnaisBeaujolais Wine Road comes to an end under the haughty shadow of the windmill (moulin vent) which looks down on the vineyards producing the grand cru wine to which it has bequeathed its name. You will be tempted to linger awhile at Romanche-Thorins, the last stage of our journey, with its zoo, an amusement park and a large tourist centre dedicated to Beaujolais wines and traditions.
Chapaize
To see: the Romanesque church
(11C) and its 35 m high tower; the workshops of the village craftsmen (gilded wood, baked clay, jewels).
Greuze Museum (archaeology, fine arts); the Perrin de Puycousin Burgundian Museum (folklore).
Milly-Lamartine
To see:
Lamartines house (18C); in the vicinity, the Chteau de Saint-Point, modified by the poet, and the Chteau de Priss-Monceau, his winegrowers residence.
To do:
the Sane.
a river cruise on
Cormatin
the chteau (17C) known as the Mconnais Chambord (drama festival in summer); the bicycle museum.
Bissy-la-Mconnaise
To do: climb to the top of Mont Saint-Romain (579 m) via the Col de la Pistole, view over the Cluny area and the Mconnais.
To see:
Roche de Solutr
Solutr-Pouilly
To see:
the Departmental Museum of Prehistory, the Atrium of Pouilly-Fuiss.
predominate over cooperatives. In this land of the Pouillys (Pouilly-Fuiss, Pouilly-Loch, PouillyVinzelles), those beguiling ambassadors for Mconnais white wine, the gently sloping hills, bathed in vines, lap against the craggy rocks of Vergisson and Solutr. The latter, described by the writer R. Gouze as a sphinx with its claws planted in the vines, is well worth a visit, not only for its natural beauty and the superb view from the summit (493 metres) but also for its prehistoric history, described in detail in the museum built in the bowels of the rock. The village of Saint-Vrand, which has given its name to Saint-Vran (the appellation has shed the
To do: a cycling or rollerblade excursion on the Voie Verte.
Az
the caves (prehistoric remains, underground river); archaeological museum (objects from Prehistory and the Middle Ages discovered in the region).
To see:
Brancion
To see: the medieval site (feudal castle, Romanesque church, Renaissance houses, market hall and 15C inn) and the view over the Grosne valley; in the vicinity: the distinctive villages of Uchizy and Ozenay (stone-roofed chteau and church).
Berz-le-Chtel
To see: the medieval site (ramparts, castle, fortified chapel, terraced gardens, etc.).
To do: climb to the top of the rock of Solutr (493 m) or its twin sister, the rock of Vergisson (485 m), for a view over the vineyards and well beyond in both cases.
Mcon
To see:
the Old Town and the St-Laurent bridge (11C); the marina; the Lamartine and Ursuline museums (archaeology, ethnology, fine arts); the Htel-Dieu and its hospital pharmacy; the Maison des Vins (wine centre).
Cluny
To see: remains of the abbey and
the Museum of Art and Archaeology; the numerous Romanesque churches; the National Stud.
Bussires
To do: the Lamartine trail, between Bussires and Milly. Event: end of January, the Saint-Vincent Tournante du Triangle d'or (wine festival alternating between Bussires, Pierreclos and Serrires).
Event: in August, the Grandes

Heures de Cluny (chamber music festival).
Romanche-Thorins
To see: Touroparc zoo (120 animal species) and amusement park; the Hameau du Vin, tourist site of the wine merchant Georges Duboeuf, devoted to Beaujolais winegrowing and traditions.
Tournus
To see:
the Old Town and the abbey church of St-Philibert (11C and 12C); the Htel-Dieu and the
Pierreclos
To see:
the castle (12C and 15C) dominating the Grosne valley, and its wine estate.
27

THE YONNE WINE ROAD
Five Wine Areas at the Gates of Paris

In the Yonne department, the vineyards have grown up alongside the rivers: the Joigny and Auxerre regions ( Jovinien and Auxerrois) in the Yonne valley, the Chablis area (Chablisien) in the Serein valley, the Tonnerre area (Tonnerrois) in the Armanon valley and the Vzelay area (Vzelien) in the Cure valley. Over and above the world renowned Chablis wines, the vineyards of the Yonne as a whole are now undergoing a revival and are well worth discovering in all their diversity.
efore the advent of the phylloxera scourge in the late 19th century, the Yonne was the largest winegrowing region in France with 40,000 hectares of vineyards. Despite the ravages caused by this disease, the vineyards, with Chablis leading the way, were to rise phoenix-like from their ashes and set off in quest of the coveted AOC appellation. Today, you can explore in the five time-honoured and famous winegrowing areas of the Yonne department in depth thanks to five different circuits.
THE JOIGNY WINE AREA: AT THE GATES OF PARIS

Coming from the north, the old RN6 main road runs through Sens and then the charming little town of Joigny, dominated by wine and the vines trade down the years. The vineyard of the Cte Saint-Jacques, overlooking the medieval town, has been remarkably restored, as have the old
Vzelay
half-timbered houses lining the narrow cobblestone streets of this Town of Artistic and Historical Interest. A few enthusiastic winegrowers have managed to preserve intact the typicity of their wine heritage. Here, the relatively rare Pinot Gris grape variety enjoys a special micro-climate and soil conditions (flint clay on a chalky subsoil) which have given rise to the production of a grey wine unique in Burgundy. At the western end of the slope, look out for the Belvedere in the middle of the vines with its sweeping views over the town and the river Yonne. To the south of Joigny, in bucolic country dotted with windmills, vines nurtured on the same kind of soil can be found in the Tholon valley. The local vineyards go back a long way, as testified by the 13th century felling wine press preserved at Champvallon. Almost out on its feet in the 1980s, this wine area has recovered a certain vitality in
recent years thanks to the efforts of a handful of young winegrowers who have replanted some "good" varieties (Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Gris and Cendr) to produce regional "bourgogne" appellations.
THE AUXERRE WINE AREA: THE ETERNAL LAND OF WINE

Continuing on its way south, the RN6 comes to Auxerre. Many a traveller has been enchanted by the sight of this old city reflected in the waters of the river Yonne and by the historical legacy of the towns architecture, running the gamut from the Carolingian era to the Renaissance. In former times, wine was the towns main source of wealth and was exported by water throughout northern France. Nowadays, the Clos de la Chanette (4.5 ha) is the sole survivor of the great Auxerre wines whose reputation once outstripped all the other vintages of Burgundy. Strictly speaking, the Auxerre wine area begins ten kilometres to the south of the
28
The Yonne Wine Road

CRMANT DE BOURGOGNE
Along with Rully in the Sane-et-Loire department and the Chtillonnais in the north of the Cte-dOr department, the Auxerrois is a bastion of sparkling wines. The AOC "Crmant de Bourgogne" was launched in 1975 at the instigation of the SICA du Vignoble Auxerrois (agricultural cooperative company). This wine (white or ros) is elaborated according to the so-called traditional method which is exactly the same as that used in the making of champagne: the basic wines are produced in the same way as any still wine and then a sugar and yeast-based liqueur is added for a second fermentation in the bottle known as prise de mousse. The AOC, which covers the entire zone of the "Bourgogne" appellation, carries certain obligations and restrictions. For example, the grapes must be harvested manually and transported in pierced crates. Different white and red grape varieties may be used in elaborating these dry or semi-dry wines which are appreciated for their richness in the mouth, finesse and persistent bubbles. In the Yonne department, the immense cellars of Bailly contain at any one time between four and five million bottles. Another temple of Crmant de Bourgogne is to be found at the Imaginarium at Nuits-Saint-Georges an invitation to take a sensory journey into the world of bubbly.
Auxerre
and its cellars, reputed for their Crmant de Bourgogne (see box), and then continue on our way to Chitry and Saint-Bris-le-Vineux, two very pretty villages of the Ctes-dAuxerre.
CHABLIS: GOLDEN GATEWAY OF BURGUNDY

We pass smoothly from the valley of the Yonne to the romantic Serein valley, home of the famous Chablis dry white wine - distinguished, lively, fruity, often copied but never equalled. With its characteristic mineral taste and gold-green colour, Chablis accounts for two-thirds of all wine production in the Yonne department. From the vantage point of Prhy, the eye takes in virtually the whole of the Chablis vineyards, enabling us to visualise the hierarchy of the various appellations: Petit Chablis (on the plateaux), Chablis (northern and eastern slopes), Chablis Premier Cru (both banks of the Serein) and Chablis Grand Cru (right bank of the Serein), all with the same Chardonnay grape variety. Breaking our journey at Chablis, we explore the treasures of this little town (old district, collegiate church of Saint-Martin, wine cellars, etc.), and find time to sample the localitys other claim to fame,
Pontigny
town in pleasant, harmonious countryside punctuated with beautiful churches and cherry trees which have partly superseded the vines. The road first runs through Escolives-Sainte-Camille (an archaeological site where a Gallo-Roman fresco was discovered testifying to the presence of vineyards as early as the 2nd century), Jussy, Coulange-la-Vineuse, etc., before crossing the Yonne at Cravant on its way to Irancy via the Cte de Palotte. From Vincelottes, we move on to Bailly
Irancy
Jussy
29

YOUR ITINERARY
One route, five circuits
Situated just 90 minutes from Paris, the Yonne Wine Road is divided into five circuits covering all the winegrowing areas of the department. An open invitation to discover, as the fancy takes you, picturesque villages, tourist and cultural attractions, tempting inns and restaurants and to set off in search of winegrowers who will be only too happy to share their love of wine with you. There are 120 cellars open to visitors, including 44 signatories of the From Vineyards to Cellars hospitality charter. 1- The Joigny wine area (Vignoble du Jovinien) 30 km loop starting from Joigny, via Paroy, Tholon, Senan, Volgr and Chamvres. 2- The Tonnerre wine area (Vignoble du Tonnerrois) Two loops starting from Tonnerre: - south bank of the Armanon (about 30 km) via Junay, Vzinnes, Roffey, Bernouil, Vzannes and Serrigny. - north bank of the Armanon (about 10 km) via Epineuil, Molosmes and Vaulichires. 3- The Chablis wine area (Vignoble du Chablisien) Two loops starting from Chablis: - south of Chablis (about 20 km ) via Prhy and Courgis - on either side of the Serein river (about 70 km): south bank - Milly, Beine, Villy, Lignorelles, Pontigny, then on the north bank - Ligny-leChtel, Maligny, Fontenays-prs-Chablis, Fy, Fleys, Viviers, Bru, Poilly-sur-Serein, and then back to the south bank - Chemilly-sur-Serein, Chiche and back to Chablis. 4- The Auxerre wine area (Vignoble de lAuxerrois) 80 km loop starting from Auxerre via Vaux, Escolives-Sainte-Camille, Coulanges-laVineuse, Vincelles, Champs-sur-Yonne, Bailly, Vincelottes, Cravant, Irancy, Chitry, Saint-Bris-leVineux, Quenne and Nangis. 5- Vzelay wine area (Vignoble du Vzelien) 20 km loop starting from Vzelay via Saint-Pre, Tharoiseau, Prcy-le-Moult, Pierre-Perthuis and Asquins.
Tonnerre
the delicious andouillette sausage, before making our way up to the Aire des Clos, at the top of the Grand Cru vineyards: Vaudsir, Valmur, Blanchot, Grenouilles, les Clos, les Preuses and Bougros, seven gems clinging to the steep and stony slopes of the right bank
THE TONNERRE WINE AREA:

LAND OF STONE AND WATER
Even more so than its neighbours, the Tonnerrois has come back from the brink. In the 19th century the winegrowing area covered over 5000 hectares and the wines were acclaimed by the high and mighty, from Henri IV to Alexandre Dumas who rated the Olivottes de Dannemoine among the great French red wines. But by the 1960s the records showed only two winegrowers in activity. The Tonnerrois vineyards were given up for dead and for the most part replaced by cereal farming. And yet, following the example set by the pretty hillside village of Epineul with its representative, very fruity and light red wines, the wine business started to recover in the 1970s. Since 1989, vines have been
30
The Yonne Wine Road

replanted over the Tonnerre vineyards as well as the communes of Molosme, Junay and Dannemoine, the appellation Bourgogne Tonnerre blanc being on the point of becoming the 101st Burgundy AOC wine. Taking the wine road from the historical town of Tonnerre with its mysterious Fosse Dione (a circular basin filled with blue-green water from an underground river), we can see how much the vineyards have once more become a feature of this landscape of vales, hills, forests and bare plateaux. As we follow the Armanon river, we discover a land where water, stone and history combine harmoniously to express a relaxed rhythm of life exemplified by the Armanon Canal, elegant chteaux, pretty villages with their handsome stone houses, etc.
FACTS AND FIGURES

The Yonne Wine Region
Surface area: over 6000 hectares of vineyards (4600 ha for the Chablisien, 1400 ha for the Auxerrois, 140 ha for the Tonnerrois, 93 ha for the Vzelien, 26 ha for the Jovinien), i.e. less than 1% of the departments productive agricultural area. Production: more than 340,000 hectolitres of wine per year, all wine areas taken together (253,700 hl for the Chablisien, 88,600 hl for the Auxerrois), i.e. 15% of total agricultural production in value terms. Grape varieties: as elsewhere in Burgundy, Pinot Noir for reds and Chardonnay for whites; but also Gamay (blended with Pinot Noir in bourgogne passe-tout-grain), Csar (gives structure and tannin to Irancy wines), Pinot Gris (on the Cte Saint-Jacques), Sauvignon (at Saint-Bris-leVineux), Melon (at Vzelay), Sacy (for crmant), etc.
ON THE WAY...
Joigny area
To see at Champvallon:
an exceedingly rare 13th century felling wine press, perhaps the only one still in operation (festival in October depending on the date of the wine harvest).
Chablis area
To see: the churches of Lignyle-Chtel (half Romanesque, half Renaissance) and Poillysur-Serein (15C); Courgis, the pretty village where the novelist Restif de la Bretonne lived; Bru, with its chteau (18C) and viewpoint affording glimpses of the Morvan in clear weather; the Cistercian abbey church of Pontigny.
presenting the history of the Thibault family, a long line of winegrowers still active today (wine and vine articles, 18C flat wine press).
To see at Coulanges-laVineuse: wine museum

containing an 18C felling wine press and municipal collections.
To see in Joigny: Town of

Artistic and Historical Interest: old districts, little streets and halftimbered houses, churches, townhouses, covered market, corn exchange, etc. Not to mention the gastronomic restaurant La Cte Saint-Jacques, in the capable hands of the Lorain family for generation after generation.
Events: 3rd weekend in May,

Fleurs de Vignes (Auxerrois wine festival); 2nd weekend in November, Concours des Vins du Grand Auxerrois (wine show); 3rd Sunday in January, Saint-Vincent Tournante de lAuxerrois (wine festival); in January at Chitry, Ftes des Amis de Chitry (wine festival).
Events: 1st Sunday in

February, Saint-Vincent Tournante du Chablisien (wine festival); 4th weekend in November, Chablis wine festival and show; in May, Chablis, Yonne Wine Market.
THE RESURRECTION OF THE VZELAY VINEYARDS

After vanishing almost without trace, the Vzelay vineyards have made a triumphant comeback in the last twenty years. And what could be more appropriate for this landmark of spiritual Burgundy perched atop its "eternal hill"? For historical reasons, the "Bourgogne Vzelay" appellation has been attributed to a Chardonnay white wine, but
the winegrowers also produce a Pinot Noir and a few hectares of the old Melon grape variety. Starting from the picturesque village of Vzelay and its basilica of Sainte-Madeleine, the wine road leads through these still-youthful vineyards, particularly in the direction of Saint-Pre where the great chef Marc Meneau holds court, and then Tharoiseau. We return to Vzelay via the Cure valley where the villages of Pierre-Perthuis and Asquins give us a foretaste of the Morvan countryside.
Event: 3rd or 4th Sunday in

October depending on the date of the wine harvest, Wine Harvest Festival at Joigny.
Auxerre area
To see in Auxerre: splendid
townscape above the Yonne and remarkable historical heritage (cathedral of SaintEtienne, Clock Tower, former abbey of Saint-Germain, etc.).
Vzelay area
To see at Vzelay, village of character and distinction on its eternal hill: Romanesque basilica of Sainte-Madeleine, classified as part of UNESCO World Heritage; the Lapidary Museum; the Franciscan monastery of La Cordelle ; Zervos Museum. In the vicinity: the village of Saint-Pre-sous-Vzelay (church of Notre-Dame, restaurant L'Esprance run by Marc Meneau); the Cure valley (Pierre-Perthuis, site of the Fontaines-Sales, caves, etc.). Event: end of January, SaintVincent Tournante du Vzelien (wine festival).
Tonnerre area
To see in Tonnerre: the
Fosse Dionne, a beautiful circular washhouse (18C) formed on a mysterious underground spring and the source of many a legend; the Htel-Dieu (13C) erected by Marguerite de Bourgogne, its sick ward and little hospital museum.
To see at Saint-Bris-leVineux: the Bailly wine cellars - 4 hectares of galleries devoted to Crmant de Bourgogne and laid out in the former underground quarries which provided the stone for Pontigny Abbey.
Events: Easter wekend, Les Vines Tonnerroises (wine festival); 4th Sunday in January, Saint-Vincent Tournante du Tonnerrois (wine festival).
To see at Quenne: local

heritage wine museum
31
On the Right Bank
of the Loire
The vineyards of the Nivre department form part of the Centre-Loire and do not belong to the Burgundy wine area. Spread out along the right bank of the Loire, they have long suffered from a certain lack of recognition, but now this region of infinite charm has its very own Wine Road, taking you from the slopes of Pouilly-sur-Loire, home of the famous Pouilly-Fum, to the vineyards of the Coteaux du Giennois above Cosne-Cours-sur-Loire, with a little foray into the Sancerre area on the other side of the river, in the Cher department.
La Charit-sur-Loire
convenient starting point for our itinerary is exit 26 on the A77 motorway running from Paris to Nevers. If you take the road alongside the Loire towards the little town of Pouilly-sur-Loire you will in next to no time come across the first low-trained vines which are a feature of the locality.
IN THE LAND OF FUM WINE

The mighty river Loire has already completed half of its journey towards the sea by the time it meets its first appellations, sloping gently down from the Nivernais hills: the famous Pouilly-Fum, produced from the Sauvignon grape
Pouillysur-Loire
32
The Coteaux de Pouilly-Sancerre Wine Road

variety and, to a lesser degree, the Pouilly-surLoire, the product of the Chasselas variety. Both of these dry, fruity white wines acquired AOC status in 1937. The former (not to be confused with Pouilly-Fuiss (Chardonnay) in the Mconnais) is known and recognised throughout the world, indeed 60% of the wine is exported. It owes its unusual name to the grapes from which it is made. When they ripen, the dense little berries of the Sauvignon Blanc are covered with a grey bloom which is the colour of fume or smoke. But the term also refers to the characteristic flint-stone aromas conferred by the Pouilly locality, in addition to the pronounced fruitiness of the wine. Still keeping to the banks of the Loire whose waters flow between little islands, gravel and sand banks, we quickly come to the quiet little town of Pouilly-sur-Loire whose activity has since time immemorial centred on the river and the wine trade.
LITTLE VILLAGES AND GREAT CHTEAUX

In the town, now a much appreciated gastronomic centre, the Clos de Chaumiennes and a few old winegrowers houses stand as reminders of Pouillys history as a wine producer. Along the banks of the Loire, you can still see the remains (quays, docks) of the port built by the townspeople in the 19th century to facilitate the wine trade. The metal bridge spanning the river, built from 1899, is still used today. Continuing on our way betwixt Loire and vineyards, we come to the charming little village of Les Loges where there are still many 19th century winegrowers houses to be seen. They can be spotted by the presence of an outside stairway straddling the cellar and providing access to the ground floor. In this part of the wine area, the half-buried wine cellar was built first and the building was then
Nevers
Saint-Andelain
THE OTHER WINE AREAS OF THE NIVRE

Although the Nivre is less readily associated with wine than the other three departments of the Burgundy region, it nevertheless has its fair share of little-known vineyards which are well worth getting to know. In addition to the vineyards we have encountered on the Wine Road (Pouilly and the Coteaux du Giennois), there are three other little areas to look out for, if only for their originality: - Vignoble des Coteaux charitois: near La Charit-sur-Loire, and more Burgundian in atmosphere; produces a white wine, for the most part in Chardonnay, and a red wine in Pinot Noir and on occasion Gamay. - Vignoble du Rioussat: since 1993, south of Nevers and near Saint-Pierre on the banks of the Allier, this old wine area has taken on a new lease of life thanks to the determination of the mayor of Livry and the backing of 580 shareholders. Over an area of 15 hectares, it produces red wines (Pinot Noir and Gamay), a white wine (Chardonnay), a bled ros (blend of Pinot and Gamay), a sparkling wine (Pinot and Chardonnay blend) and a vin gris (white wine made from red grapes, particularly Pinot Noir). - Vignoble de Tannay: in 1990, in the Vaux d'Yonne (Yonne Vales), to the south of Clamecy, a handful of enthusiasts decided to reconstruct the vineyards of yesteryear. Today, there are some forty hectares of vines shared between five independent winegrowers. A collective wine-making cellar, situated at Tannay, produces white, red and ros wines.
M. Joly
33

YOUR ITINERARY
erected in function of the restrictions imposed by the cellar. We now leave the riverside and climb up through the vineyards to the village of SaintAndelain. From here there is a superb view over the Loire valley on both the Nivre and Berry sides of the river with the Donzy and Sancerre hills beyond. Here, the Chteau du Nozet, rebuilt in the 19th century in the flamboyant Neo-Gothic style, rises proudly from the middle of the Ladoucette estate, one of the great names in Pouilly-Fum wine. wine unites us. Over an area of 2800 hectares and 14 communes, this wine-growing area in the CentreLoire region produces white wines from the Sauvignon grape variety, but also Pinot Noir reds and ross that are quite similar to the wines of Pouilly-sur-Loire. After 20 kilometres or so in the Sancerrois, the road crosses the Loire again and we find ourselves once more in the Nivre at CosneCours-sur-Loire at the confluence of the Loire and the Nohain. After you have visited the town, you can choose between taking the A77 motorway which will bring you back to where you started, or climbing up to SaintPre-les-Cosne in the upper part of the town. Here, you are in the heart of the Cosne vineyards which produce white, red and ros wines under the Coteaux du Giennois appellation. The name is taken from the town of Gien, in the Loiret department downstream on the Loire, which marks the northern limit of the appellation.
Pouilly-sur-Loire Cosne-Cours-sur-Loire (43 km)

Via Les Loges, Saint-Andelain, Tracy-sur-Loire, Saint-Satur, Sancerre, Les Fouchards.
AND INTO THE
ACROSS THE RIVER CHER DEPARTMENT
We pass under the motorway and arrive at Tracysur-Loire and its chteau, fief of another great wine property which has been in the hands of the Estutt dAssay family for over four hundred years. A wine tasting can be arranged in this prestigious setting. A little further on, the road crosses the Loire and we find ourselves in the neighbouring department of the Cher and in another wine area of repute, the Sancerre. The good relations existing between the Sancerre and Pouilly vineyards are reflected in the motto of the Confrrie des Baillis de Pouilly-sur-Loire: Water divides us but
Clamecy
34
The Coteaux de Pouilly-Sancerre Wine Road

ON THE WAY...
FACTS AND FIGURES
The Pouilly-sur-Loire Wine Area
Surface area: 1240 hectares on the communes of Pouillysur-Loire, Tracy-sur-Loire, Saint-Andelain, Saint-Laurent, Mesves-sur-Loire, Saint-Martin-sur-Nohain and Garchy. Terroir: on the wine slopes, soils composed of kimmeridgian marls, hard limestone and flint, which give the Pouilly-Fum its minerality; more classic clay-limestone soils beside the Loire. Wine varieties: Sauvignon Blanc for the PouillyFum appellation (1200 ha), Chasselas for the Pouilly-sur-Loire appellation (40 ha). Production: 70,000 hectolitres per year of PouillyFum, 2250 hectolitres per year of Pouilly-sur-Loire. Wines: Pouilly-Fum is a dry white wine generously associating minerality and fruitiness. Depending on the terroir, its character may be fresh and lively or pure and long in the mouth, with a fruit (citrus fruit, passion fruit, lychee, etc) always in evidence. It can be kept for between five and ten years but is usually at its best after two or three years. The Pouilly-sur-Loire is lighter and more discreet a thirst-quenching wine par excellence. Pure and refreshing, it makes an ideal accompaniment for a snack with friends or small fried fish from the Loire.
Pouilly-sur-Loire
To see:
church of Saint-Pierre (13C) under the dual patronage of Saint Nicholas (for the boatmen) and Saint-Vincent (for the winegrowers); the Pavillon du Milieu de Loire (information centre on the natural habitats of the river and the Pouilly vineyards permanent exhibition: Between Wine and Water); Les Moulins Vent cooperative wine cellar.
Saint-Andelain
To do: Pouilly-Fum tasting in the cellar of the Neo-Gothic Chteau du Nozet, part of the Ladoucette wine estate and headquarters of the Confrrie des Baillis de Pouilly.
Cosne-Cours-sur-Loire
To see: the church of Saint-Agnan (11C and
15C) and its tower porch; the Gothic church of Saint-Jacques and its tower-porch; the Municipal Museum devoted to the life of the Loire boatmen; the Chaplains House (16C); the Muse Paysan de Bourgogne Nivernaise (rural heritage) at La Celle-sur-Loire; the monumental winepress (18C) of the storehouse of Saint-Loup.
To do: walking along the Milieu de Loire trails,

footpaths for exploring the Val de Loire nature reserve and the vineyards (3 circuits for unaccompanied walks or guided visits); a canoeing expedition on the Loire as far as Cosne; visiting a wine cellar (every day in summer the winegrowers take it in turns to welcome you).
Events: in July, Fte des Terroirs (wine auction);

15 August, wine fair; in October, new wine festival.
To do: discovery walks in the region (5 marked circuits: the banks of the Loire, Villechaud, Saint Pre, Bannay and Rognon).
M. Joly
The Coteaux du Giennois Wine Area

Surface area: 182 hectares in production (765 ha classified) over 14 communes, including 7 in the Nivre department (La-Celle-sur-Loire, Cosne-Cours-sur-Loire, Myennes, Neuvy, Pougny, Saint-Loup and Saint-Pre). Terroir: siliceous or limestone soils of the slopes dominating the Loire. Grape varieties: Sauvignon (70 ha), Pinot and Gamay (112 ha). Production: 10,997 hl in 2005 (43% in red, 41% in white, 16% in ros).
Pouilly-sur-Loire
35

W HERE
INTERNET
INFORMATION ON WINES
If you would like to find out more about Burgundy wines and wine areas (technical information, addresses of winegrowers, wine festivals, etc.), please consult the website of the Interprofessional Bureau for Burgundy Wines (Bureau Interprofessionnel des Vins de Bourgogne - BIVB). in French: www.vins-bourgogne.fr in English: www.bourgogne-wines.com This website includes a search engine dedicated to wine tourism (under the heading "Burgundy with a Difference") and gives all the addresses you need to plan a successful wine-related trip in Burgundy. To facilitate the search process, the site is grouped around four simple questions: What to do? When? Where? How? The website exists in English, French and German versions.
TO FIND MORE INFORMATION
BROCHURES AND LEAFLETS GENERAL INFORMATION

The Interprofessional Bureau for Burgundy Wines (BIVB) has published a Map of the Burgundy Wine Road (Carte de La Route des Vins de Bourgogne) which also includes full details of members of the From Vineyards to Cellars quality charter. It has also published a brochure entitled Bourgognes en Fte listing the main wine events taking place throughout the year in Burgundy. Both these bilingual publications (French-English) are available at the tourist offices and information bureaux of Burgundy, and from the BIVB (B.P. 150 -- F-21204 Beaune Cedex).
SPECIFIC INFORMATION
Several leaflets, brochures and tourist maps are available at tourist offices and information bureaux throughout Burgundy:
F-21203 Beaune Cedex. Tel. + 33 (0)3 80 26 21 30 www.ot-beaune.fr or www.beaune-burgundy.com
THE MCONNAIS-BEAUJOLAIS WINE ROAD (ROUTE DES VINS MCONNAIS-BEAUJOLAIS)

The Route des Vins Mconnais-Beaujolais has published a 60-page guide presenting 68 villages-stopovers and 8 tourist circuits. Further information: Route des Vins Mconnais-Beaujolais, 6, rue Dufour, F-71000 Mcon. Tel. + 33.(0)3.85.38.09.99. http://suivezlagrappe.free.fr
GRANDS CRUS WINE ROAD (ROUTE TOURISTIQUE DES GRANDS CRUS DE BOURGOGNE)
The Association de la Route touristique des Grands Crus de Bourgogne has a very informative website. Further information: C.C.I. Dijon, Service Tourisme, B.P. 370, F-21010 Dijon Cedex. Tel. + 33 (0)3 80 65 92 65 www.route-des-grands-crus-de-bourgogne.com The Beaune Tourist Office has published a bilingual tourist guide (French-English): Beaune, Couleurs Vin (price: 5 euros). Further information: Office de tourisme, B.P. 87,
GRANDS VINS WINE ROAD (ROUTE TOURISTIQUE DES GRANDS VINS DE BOURGOGNE)
The Association de la Route Touristique des Grands Vins de Bourgogne has published a bilingual tourist map (French-English). Further information: C.C.I. Chalon-sur-Sane, B.P. 190, F-71105 Chalon-sur-Sane Cedex. www.laroutedesgrandsvins.com
THE COTEAUX DE POUILLY WINE ROAD (ROUTE DES COTEAUX DE POUILLY )

The vineyards of the Nivre department, including those of Pouilly-sur-Loire, are partially covered in the brochure entitled Route des Vignobles du Coeur de France. Further information: Maison des Vignerons, 2, rue des Ecoles, F-58150 Pouilly-sur-Loire. Tel. + 33 (0)3 86 39 06 83 www.pouilly-fume.com
THE YONNE WINE ROAD (ROUTE TOURISTIQUE DES VIGNOBLES DE L'YONNE)

The Association de la Route touristique des Vignobles de l'Yonne has published a bilingual tourist map (French-English). Further information: C.C.I. Auxerre, 26, rue Etienne-Dolet, F-89015 Auxerre Cedex. www.yonne.cci.fr/vignobles-yonne.asp
TOURIST INFORMATION
For tourist information about Burgundy, please consult the websites of the Burgundy Regional Tourist Board (Comit Rgional du Tourisme de Bourgogne): in French: www.bourgogne-tourisme.com and www.vite-en-bourgogne.com in English: www.burgundy-tourism.com in German: www.burgund-tourismus.com
36
HOW TO
BY CAR
GRANDS CRUS WINE ROAD YONNE WINE ROAD
EXPLORE THE
BURGUNDY WINE ROAD
PUBLIC TRANSPORT
Access via motorway A6 (Paris-Lyon): exits 24 and 24.1 (Beaune). Access via motorway A31 (MetzBeaune): exits 3 (Dijon-Sud) and 1 (Nuits-St-Georges). Access via motorway A39 (Bourg-enBresse-Dijon): exit Dijon-Centre.
Access via motorway A6 (Paris-Lyon): exits 18 (Joigny), 19 and 20 (Auxerre, Chablis, Tonnerre), 21 (Nitry) and 22 (Avallon, Vzelay).
GRANDS CRUS WINE ROAD

By train TGV railway stations: Dijon and Beaune. www.sncf.com Regional trains (TER) stopping at Dijon, Gevrey-Chambertin, Vougeot, Nuits-St-Georges, Corgoloin, LadoixSerrigny, Beaune, Meursault, Santenay. www.ter-sncf.com/bourgogne By bus Line 44: starting from Dijon. Stopping at Chenve, Marsannay-la-Cte, Couchey, Fixin, Brochon, GevreyChambertin, Morey-Saint-Denis,Chambolle-Musigny, Vougeot, Nuits-SaintGeorges, Ladoix-Serrigny, Aloxe-Corton, Chorey-les-Beaune, Beaune, Pommard, Monthelie, Meursault, Auxey-Duresses, Saint-Romain, Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet. Transdev Cte-dOr. Tl. : + 33 (0)3 80 78 93 32 et 0 800 21 32 33 (N vert)
VINEYARDS OF THE NIVRE
Regional trains (TER) stopping at Chalon-sur-Sane, Chagny, Cheillyles-Maranges, Dezize-les-Maranges, Rully, Fontaines-Mercurey, Tournus. www.ter-sncf.com/bourgogne By bus Line 1 : Chalon-sur-Sane, Mercurey, Charrecey, St-Lger-sur-Dheune, Couches. Line 7 : Chagny, Chalon-sur-Sane, Buxy, Givry, Saint-Gengoux-le-National. Line 55: Chagny, Rully, Mercurey, Dracy. Transdev RSL. Tl. : 03 85 45 86 10 - www.r-s-l.fr
Transdev RSL. Tl. : 03 85 45 86 10 - www.r-s-l.fr
YONNE WINE ROAD

By train Regional trains (TER) stopping at Auxerre, Joigny, Tonnerre, Augy-Vaux, Champs-Saint-Bris, Vincelles, Cravant, Accolay, Arcy-sur-Cure, Avallon. www.ter-sncf.com/bourgogne By bus Regional TER Bus from Montbard to Avallon and Vzelay. www.ter-sncf.com/bourgogne Line 1: Auxerre Joigny. Line 4: Auxerre Chablis Tonnerre. Trans-Yonne. Tel. + 33 (0)3 86 72 89 89 www.lyonne.com
GRANDS VINS WINE ROAD

Access via motorway A77 (ParisNemours-Nevers): exits 22 and 23 (Cosne-s/Loire), 26 (Pouilly-surLoire), 28 and 29 (La Charit-surLoire). Access via motorway A6 (Paris-Lyon): exits 25 (Chalon-Nord), 26 (ChalonSud) and 27 (Tournus).
MCONNAIS-BEAUJOLAIS WINE ROAD

By train TGV railway station: Mcon-Loch. www.sncf.com Regional trains (TER) stopping at Mcon, Senozon, Fleurville, Tournus, Crches-sur-Sane, Romanche-Thorins. www.ter-sncf.com/bourgogne By bus Line 7: Mcon La-Roche-Vineuse. Line 10: Mcon Chalon-sur-Sane. Line 71: Tournus, Chardonnay, Lugny, Ig, Hurigny, Mcon.
VINEYARDS OF THE NIVRE

By train Corail trains: Paris-Nevers and Lyon-Nevers. www.sncf.com Regional trains (TER) stopping at Nevers, La Charit-sur-Loire, Pouilly-sur-Loire, Cosne-sur-Loire. www.ter-sncf.com/bourgogne

Access via motorway A6 (Paris-Lyon): exits 27 (Tournus), 28 (Mcon-Nord), 29 (Mcon-Sud) and 30 (Bellevillesur-Sane).
B.I.V.B. / D. R.
By train TGV railway stations: Chalon-surSane and Le Creusot/Montchanin. www.sncf.com
37

HOW TO
GRANDS CRUS WINE ROAD
On foot A footpath runs alongside the Grands Crus Wine Road (Route des Grands Crus) from start to finish. Comit dpartemental de Randonne pdestre de Cte-dOr. Tel. + 33 (0)3 80 63 64 60 By bike From Dijon to Vougeot, the itinerary is shared by motorists and cyclists but traffic is relatively light. From Dijon to Gevrey-Chambertin, cyclists can travel with their bikes on the buses of the Compagnie des Rapides de Cte-d'Or (line 60). In this case, reservations must be made one day ahead but at no extra charge. Maximum 5 cyclists per bus. Les Rapides de Cte-dOr. Tel. +33 (0)3 80 78 93 42 Fax + 33 (0)3 80 74 01 04 e-mail: rco@transdev.fr Between Vougeot and Aloxe-Corton, it is best to avoid the heavy traffic on the N74 and to follow the vineyard paths, accessible to hybrid and mountain bikes. From Aloxe-Corton to Beaune, cyclists can once again join the Grands Crus Wine Road as motor traffic is relatively light. From Beaune to Santenay, the Cycling Tour of Burgundy (Tour de Bourgogne vlo ) now follows the Vineyard Vloroute ( Vloroute des Vignes ) over 22 km, passing through such villages as Pommard, Volnay, Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet and Chassagne-Montrachet. Brochure on the Vloroute des Vignes available in the tourist offices, and
EXPLORE THE
BURGUNDY WINE ROAD

downloadable from: www.ot-beaune.fr under the heading Dpliants. Cte-dOr Tourisme. Tel. + 33 (0)3 80 63 69 49 Fax + 33 (0)3 80 49 90 97 www.cotedor-tourisme.com The tourist map of the Cte-dOr , published by the Cte-dOr Departmental Tourist Board, is extremely useful for exploring the Grands Crus Wine Road in its entirety. where a chteau surrounded by magnificent gardens and an astonishing Bicycle Museum awaits your visit. The itinerary is based on Frances very first Voie Verte, opened in 1997, and following the trace of an abandoned railway line. A map - Voies Vertes and cycling in Southern Burgundy (Voies Vertes et Cyclotourisme en Bourgogne du Sud) is available from the tourist offices, and may be downloaded on the website of the Comit Dpartemental de Tourisme de Sane-etLoire (www.bourgogne-du-sud.com). Comit Dpartemental du Tourisme de Sane-et-Loire. Tel. + 33 (0)3 85 21 02 20 documentation@bourgogne-du-sud.com
ON FOOT OR BY BIKE

On foot Several footpaths take you through the vineyards of the Cte Chalonnaise. They are described in the topographical guide entitled La Sane-et-Loire pied (Ref. D-071). These itineraries are an excellent way to discover some magnificent countryside and many traditional wine villages. Comit dpartemental de Randonne pdestre de Sane-et-Loire. Tel./Fax + 33 (0)3 85 58 98 17 e-mail: cdrp@wanadoo.fr By bike Over the northern part of the Grands Vins Wine Road a Green Way (Voie Verte) of the Cycling Tour of Burgundy runs from Chalon-sur-Sane to Santenay (partly alongside the Canal du Centre ), via Chagny, before reaching Cheilly-les-Maranges. The little roads on the Rully - Mercurey Givry stretch are slightly more hilly and sometimes call for a certain physical effort. Starting from Givry, you return to the Cycling Tour of Burgundy and a com-pletely safe itinerary on the Voie Verte which winds its way along the foot of, or very close to, the vineyards as far as Cormatin

On foot Southern Burgundy is criss-crossed by numerous footpaths taking you through landscapes of exceptional beauty, particularly in the Roche de Solutr and Roche de Vergisson sector. The region also has much to offer on the architectural and cultural front (chteaux of Pierreclos and Berz-leChtel, numerous Romanesque churches, souvenirs of the great poet Lamartine). These itineraries are described in the topographical guide La Sane-et-Loire pied (Ref. D-071). Comit dpartemental de randonne pdestre de Sane-et-Loire. Tel./Fax + 33 (0)3 85 51 06 15 e-mail: cdrp@wanadoo.fr By bike From Cluny to the gates of Mcon: Thanks to the Voie Verte , you can explore part of the Mconnais-
38
ON FOOT OR BY BIKE
THE YONNE WINE ROAD
On foot At the gates of Paris, the Yonne department has a vast array of footpaths for discovering the famous and lesser known vineyards: in the vicinity of the Eternal Hill of Vzelay, the Yonne Valley, the Tonnerrois, or around the beautiful villages of Chablis, Irancy and Saint-Brisle-Vineux. These itineraries are described in several topographical guides: L'Yonne pied (Ref. D 089), Entre Cure et Yonne (Ref. P 892), Le Pays Avallonnais pied (Ref. P 893). Comit dpartemental de Randonne pdestre de lYonne. Tel./Fax + 33 (0)3 86 52 44 23 e-mail: cdrp-yonne@wanadoo.fr www.rando-pedestre89.com By bike The Yonne Wine Road runs through hilly country and the little roads are sometimes quite steep, particularly around Chablis, Irancy and Saint-Bris-le-Vineux. The going is easier on the stretches forming part of the Cycling Tour of Burgundy , particularly alongside the Nivernais Canal, the Yonne between Cravant and Auxerre and the Burgundy Canal in the Tonnerre area. These stretches are described in several documents available from the tourist offices: La Vloroute Voie Verte canal du Nivernais , La Vloroute autour du canal du Nivernais, A vlo le long de l'Yonne et du canal du Nivernais, A vlo le long du canal de Bourgogne . The last-mentioned of these documents may be downloaded from the website: www.tourisme-yonne.com Agence de dveloppement touristique de lYonne. Tel. + 33 (0)3 86 72 92 00 www.tourisme-yonne.com
A WELCOME
OF QUALITY
VINEYARDS OF THE NIVRE DEPARTMENT

On foot There are numerous footpaths longdistance paths and discovery trails (for the less experienced walker) for exploring the Nivernais countryside, in particular the Val de Loire and its vineyards. The topographical guide La Nivre pied (Ref. 058) gives a detailed description of these itineraries. Comit dpartemental de Randonne pdestre de la Nivre. Tel./Fax + 33 (0)3 86 59 09 44 e-mail: cdrp58@wanadoo.fr By bike The Cycling Tour of Burgundy does not run through the Val de Loire. However, there is a very dense network of little country roads with little traffic, making this western part of Burgundy an ideal destination for cyclists. The brochure La Nivre en cyclotourisme is available in the tourist offices and from the Agence de dveloppement touristique de la Nivre. Agence de dveloppement touristique de la Nivre. Tel. + 33 (0)3 86 59 14 22 Fax + 33 (0)3 86 59 90 67 e-mail: info@nievre-tourisme.com www.nievre-tourisme.com
Beaujolais Wine Road in conditions of complete safety and without difficulty. In particular, this stretch of the Cycling Tour of Burgundy includes the Bois-Clair tunnel, the longest tunnel for cyclists in Europe (1.6 km). The itinerary passes by the foot of the imposing medieval castle of Berz-le-Chatel and crosses the Mconnais vineyards all the way down to the terminus at Charnay-les-Mcon. The southernmost part of the Mconnais-Beaujolais Wine Road takes you through some spectacular landscapes in hilly country, particularly in the area around the Roche de Solutr and the Roche de Vergisson. These steep little country roads are recommended only for experienced and fit cyclists, used to sustained physical effort. A map - Voies Vertes and cycling in Southern Burgundy ( Voies vertes et Cyclotourisme en Bourgogne du Sud) is available from the tourist offices, and may be downloaded on the website of the Comit Dpartemental de Tourisme de Sane-et-Loire (www.bourgogne-du-sud.com). Comit dpartemental du Tourisme de Sane-et-Loire. Tel. + 33 (0)3 85 21 02 20 documentation@bourgogne-du-sud.com
FROM VINEYARDS TO CELLARS (DE VIGNES EN CAVES) Wine professionals bid you a warm welcome
On the Burgundy Wine Road, 311 wine professionals greet you with a smile on their lips (and a glass in their hand!), ready to share their enthusiasm with you and demonstrate the qualities of their wines. The signatories of the From Vineyards to Cellars quality charter winegrowers, members of cooperative cellars, wine merchants-producers have all pledged to guarantee you a warm and personalised welcome. Just look out for the De Vignes en Caves sign at the entrance to the building in question and open the door! Your host will offer you a free tasting of at least one wine, and will be happy to unveil the secrets of wine varieties, appellations and the flavours and aromas of his Burgundy wines. You will then be able to buy some wine on the spot and take back home a few good bottles to share with family and friends. The list of the 311 wine domains belonging to the From Vineyards to Cellars quality charter is featured on the map of the Burgundy Wine Road published by the Interprofessional Bureau for Burgundy Wines (Bureau Interprofessionnel des vins de Bourgogne - BIVB) and available from the tourist offices and information bureaux of Burgundy. This list may also be consulted on the websites of the BIVB ( www.vins-bourgogne.fr ) and the Burgundy Regional Tourist Board (www.bourgogne-tourisme.com).
39
Bourgogne Tourisme
(Comit Rgional du Tourisme de Bourgogne)
B.P. 20623 - 21006 DIJON Cedex - FRANCE

Wine Road Burgundy

Diunggah oleh

Informasi Dokumen

Hak Cipta

Format Tersedia

Bagikan dokumen Ini

Bagikan atau Tanam Dokumen

Opsi Berbagi

Apakah menurut Anda dokumen ini bermanfaat?

Apakah konten ini tidak pantas?

Hak Cipta:

Format Tersedia

Wine Road Burgundy

Diunggah oleh

Hak Cipta:

Format Tersedia

The Burgundy Wine Road

The Burgundy Wine Road

La Route des Vins de Bourgogne

Welcome to a World of Legend

The 5 Circuits of the Wine Road

La Route des Vins de Bourgogne

Chteau du Clos de Vougeot

History and Heritage

La Route des Vins de Bourgogne

Of Vineyards and Winegrowers

La Route des Vins de Bourgogne

Gastronomy and Art of Living

La Route des Vins de Bourgogne

One road, many vineyards...

In search of in all its diversity J

La Route des Vins de Bourgogne

AT THE GATES OF DIJON

The grand crus wine road

THE OTHER WINE AREAS OF THE CTE-DOR

IN THE LAND OF THE GREAT RED WINES

La Route des Vins de Bourgogne

FROM LEGEND TO UNIVERSAL MYTH

Chteau du Clos de Vougeot

Chamboeuf and Vergy where, instead of retracing

The grand crus wine road

Throughout the route

Events: in October, Fte du

The Marathon des Grands Crus de Bourgogne: this

Events: in March, Vente des

Events: in March, the Journes

La Route des Vins de Bourgogne

Prestigious Cte de Beaune

The Grands Crus Wine Road

WELCOME TO THE HAUTES-CTES

THAT MAN CHARLEMAGNE!

BURGUNDY WINE CAPITAL

La Route des Vins de Bourgogne

FACTS AND FIGURES

The Grands Crus Wine Road

Event: 1st Sunday in July:

Events: June to September,

La Route des Vins de Bourgogne

Out and About in the Cte Chalonnaise

ROAMING AT WILL COUCHOIS AREA

The Grands Vins wine road

ONE WINE AREA, FOUR GRAPE VARIETIES

THE OPULENT VINEYARDS RULLY AND MERCUREY

La Route des Vins de Bourgogne

FACTS AND FIGURES

Santenay - St-Gengoux-le-National (75 km)

A TASTE OF THE SOUTH

The Grands Vins wine road

Event : early July, Chalon dans

To do: a houseboat outing on

To do: rock-climbing on the

Event: early April, Du ct des

To do: attend a chapter of the

La Route des Vins de Bourgogne

The Call of the

The Mconnais-Beaujolais Wine Road

MAKING SENSE OF THE

La Route des Vins de Bourgogne

FACTS AND FIGURES

GREAT WHITE WINES AND A WINDMILL!