Danile Ligneau-Wilton was born and raised in France.

She studied in the United States where she met her husband. His work brought the family to ngland in !"#!$ where they ha%e resided e%er since. Danile taught languages in the United States and in ngland. &he last twel%e years of her teaching career were s'ent at (anterbury (hrist (hurch Uni%ersity from which she retired in December )*!*. +esides writing Danile lo%es gardening$ walking$ swimming and cycling. She,s a doting grandmother to her four young grandchildren.

&o my friend -ill who has been my ins'iration.

Danile Ligneau-Wilton MUZUNGU, GOOD MORNING

A Teachers Adventures in Rwanda

(o'yright . Danile Ligneau-Wilton &he right of Danile Ligneau-Wilton to be identified as author of this work has been asserted by her in accordance with section // and /# of the (o'yright$ Designs and 0atents 1ct !"##. 1ll rights reser%ed. 2o 'art of this 'ublication may be re'roduced$ stored in a retrie%al system$ or transmitted in any form or by any means$ electronic$ mechanical$ 'hotoco'ying$ recording$ or otherwise$ without the 'rior 'ermission of the 'ublishers. 1ny 'erson who commits any unauthori3ed act in relation to this 'ublication may be liable to criminal 'rosecution and ci%il claims for damages. 1 (40 catalogue record for this title is a%ailable from the +ritish Library. 4S+2 "/# !5"67 5"! 8 &o 'rotect the identity of the 'ersons in this book most of the names ha%e been changed. www.austinmacauley.com First 0ublished 9)*!5: 1ustin ;acauley 0ublishers Ltd. )8 (anada S<uare (anary Wharf London !5 8L+

0rinted and bound in =reat +ritain

1cknowledgments

;y gratitude goes to -ill +arham and her husband +isho' >en +arham$ who encouraged me to go to ?wanda$ to all my family and friends around the world$ who su''orted me with 'hone calls$ letters$ and gifts of money towards 'ro@ects as they arose$ and to -ohn 0arry for editing the work.

Foreword by the Rt Rev O!#

enneth !arha",

;y wife and 4 first met Danile when in%ited to her family home in (anterbury during the !""# Lambeth (onference. She had been talking to -ill who was with +isho's, s'ouses from ?wanda. Her son 0aul-1ndrA seemed 'articularly interested in the work we do in ast 1frica. He subse<uently came with me on one of my tri's to ?wanda where he hel'ed build rooms at a (hurch guesthouse. 1fter graduating$ his interest in 1frica grew and he has done se%eral interesting @obs working for international organisations. We ke't in touch with Danile whose interest in ?wanda grew. She and her husband 0aul ha%e tra%elled the world$ writing com'rehensi%e accounts of the %arious countries %isited. She often talked about what she would do when she retired from her French 'ost in the Language Studies De'artment of (anterbury (hrist (hurch Uni%ersity. 4n !""# ?wanda was a franco'hone country$ so my wife suggested she did some teaching in the (hurch school in the (yangugu Diocese of ?wanda. 4n the inter%ening years the country has changed and e%ery teacher now has to teach in nglish. 1s Danile is bilingual that was no 'roblem. When she retired she offered to go to ?wanda and teach at a school called the -ill +arham Secondary School. Her offer was gladly acce'ted and she went through rather an eB'ensi%e 'rocess of getting a work 'ermit. 4 offered to lend her my house for her three months stay and she made the necessary 're'arations. &his book is a collection of her weekly letters from 1frica where she worked tirelessly for the school. She had to walk$ sometimes through rain and mud$ from the house to the school$ a distance of about two miles. 1s well as doing a great work in the school$ she made friends with a family 'ast whose house she had to walk. &he lady was a genocide sur%i%or who li%es with H4CD1ids as a direct result. Danile has taken great trouble to hel' her and her children in %ery 'ractical ways$ including strengthening the walls of the house and 'ro%iding a source of clean water. 1t school the teachers came to see her as a leader and elected her their re'resentati%e. She showed them how to 'aint the walls and generally make the classrooms and the staffroom cleaner. Eou will find the day-to-day story one of great dedication and hard work. 4 commend it to you. +isho' >enneth +arham +attle$ SusseB U>

$ %an I Do It&

F;u3ungu$ ;u3ungu$ good morningGH said the young children as 4 walked along the muddy 'ath on my way to school. Ees$ 4 was the ;u3ungu$ the white uro'ean$ and there 4 was$ in the darkest of dark 1frica$ where 4 did not really want to go$ in a remote town beyond the forest where nobody wanted to %enture. ;oreo%er$ 4 was in ?wanda$ the country which suffered the dreadful genocide not so long ago. Finally 4 was teaching$ after %owing ne%er to stand u' in front of a class again$ once retired. So$ what ha''enedI 4 had finished work$ after a career in language teaching$ and it was now time to start a new life. 4 wanted to do something fun$ something differentJ 4 wanted to tra%el$ meet new 'eo'le$ and sim'ly en@oy myself. 4 was ready to be a %olunteer$ but nothing seemed to a''eal to me. &hen$ 4 met my friend -ill o%er a cu' of coffee and my life was turned around. -ill is married to +isho' >en +arham$ a white nglishman who was born in Uganda and raised in ?wanda. He became +isho' in (yangugu$ ?wanda in !""7 and worked there until he retired in )**)J then he returned to the U> and continued his fundraising work. 4n ?wanda$ much of his life was s'ent rebuilding his diocese after the !""5 genocide$ while -ill s'ent her time fundraising in the U>. During all the years that 4 was working$ -ill ke't nudging meK FEou must go %isit ?wandaH$ she said$ Fit,s such a beautiful country.H +ut the time had not come yet. 2ow that 4 was free$ -ill did not hesitate. FEou go to ?wanda and teach nglishJ there is a lo%ely (hurch of ngland School in (yangugu$ which will be glad for your hel'.H F&each nglishIH said 4. F+ut French is my s'ecialtyGH F+ut you are a French woman li%ing in ngland$H she said. FEou can teach nglishJ your skills are needed.H 4 hesitated$ but 4 could not resist the call. 1fter all$ 4 had had a three months breakG 4 would go and teach again. +ut where would 4 li%eI 4 could not afford to stay in a hotel for %ery longG +isho' >en then offered me the use of his (yangugu house$ em'ty at that time. He also assured me of the su''ort of his friends in the Diocese. ?wanda was the most 'eaceful 1frican country right now$ he said$ and nothing would ha''en to meJ 4 could relaB. 4 was$ howe%er$ anBious. What was 4 getting intoI ?wanda used to be a franco'hone country$ and u' to )**" or so$ in many schools the curriculum was taught in French. 2ow$ ?wanda is a member of the (ommonwealth and students ha%e to be taught in nglish. &he change is hard on them. Since 4$ 'ersonally$ had learned nglish as a second language and had taught languages all my life$ it sounded like my hel'$ as a %olunteer$ would be

welcome. +ut would it beI 4 was French$ and the French ha%e not been the fla%our of the day in ?wanda since the genocide. How would 4 be recei%edI With many <uestions in the back of my mind$ the neBt few months were s'ent 're'aring for my tri' to ?wanda. 4 wanted to make a real go of it$ be acce'ted$ be useful$ be really in%ol%ed in teaching. For this$ 4 needed to see the students from the beginning of one term to the end. So$ when would be the best time goI 4t @ust ha''ened that the school year starts in -anuary$ a lo%ely warm month in ?wanda$ which is located @ust south of the <uator. ngland$ on the other hand$ is rather cold$ wet and gloomy during the winter months. &he decision was made for me. 4 would go for the first term$ from early -anuary until mid-1'ril$ allowing some time for tourism at the end of my %isit. 4 bought my 'lane ticket to co%er one hundred days in ?wanda. Unbeknown to me$ a %isit for more than ninety days necessitates a work 'ermit$ e%en for %olunteers. &he 'a'erwork and red ta'e were @ust starting. Would 4 e%er get thereI

' Nervou( )wa*ening

Saturday 7 January 2012 &he @ourney was long and eBhausting. 1 night flight to 2airobi$ >enya$ was followed by a connecting flight from 2airobi to >igali$ ?wanda. 4 was rather disorientated and bleary eyed by the time we landed at >igali air'ort. Here we were$ in the land of a &housand Hills$ as ?wanda is described$ and my new life was starting. &he landing stri' seemed to be in a field somewhere$ and 'eo'le were cutting the grass with a scythe on either side of the runway. &he ca'ital was different from any ca'ital 4 had e%er seen beforeJ it seemed com'osed of different %illages$ each %illage occu'ying a se'arate hill. How %ery unusualG 4 was relie%ed to see my two enormous suitcases emerge on the luggage rack$ and e%en more relie%ed when a charming cou'le with my name on a small 'a'er welcomed me with o'en arms at the eBit. +rother (harles is +isho' >en,s right hand here in ?wanda. He and his wife$ -uliette$ were going to take care of me in >igali. 2ow 4 could relaB$ and s'end the neBt two days sorting out my affairs. &here were three things 4 needed to do in >igali before continuing my way southK %isit the genocide museum 9a %ery mo%ing eB'erience:$ a''ly for my new %isa and stock u' on food for my life Fbeyond the forestH. What a relief to ha%e +rother (harles as my guide and hel'er$ as$ to start with$ 4 could not understand the bus system. &hen$ there was the 4mmigration Lffice and their frustrating bureaucracy. 4t turned out that 4 needed more 'a'ers from the school$ so 4 would ha%e to a''ly from (yangugu$ another hassle to worry about. Finally$ 4 had to find a hairdressers. Lf course 4 should ha%e had my hair cut before lea%ing ngland but$ at the last minute$ my hairdressing a''ointment was cancelled$ and 4 was left with dangling hair unfit for a teacher. 1t the hotel 4 was told that the hairdressers$ across the street$ knew how to cut Western hair. So 4 %entured there. &he barber took a large tooth hair sha%er to attack my head... 4 almost screamedG 4 was left with little hair on to'G &he good thing is that 4 wouldn,t need another haircut for <uite a while. 4t was now time to dri%e to (yangugu$ at the SW corner of ?wanda$ at the border with the D?( 9Democratic ?e'ublic of (ongo:. &he twenty-eight 'assenger minibus 9including the aisle seats from which each one must get u' and disembark to let the back-seat 'assengers get out: was crowded. 1ll the suitcases were stored under the seats. ;y FhugestH suitcase found a 'lace in the back under some tyres$ while my other suitcase was stored by the door$ and my bags under my feet. &he siB-hour @ourney went fairly fast as the scenery was fantastic. Howe%er$ good roads were soon re'laced by Fbum'yH ones as

'otholes a''eared more and more fre<uently and tarmac became dirt. &he bus dri%er was eBtremely skilful to a%oid all ma@or holes but$ each time we 'assed another %ehicle$ we were engulfed in clouds of dust. ;y faithful Cietnamese face mask was 'acked away$ so 4 held a white handkerchief o%er my noseK it was black when we arri%ed. 1s we crossed %illages 4 got flashbacks of 'hotos seen on &C and in maga3inesK men 'ushing their loaded bicycles while women carried e%erything on their heads accom'anied by children. 1ll walked along the road$ to or from the nearby market. &here were women making bricks out of mud and grass to build houses. Lthers were busy beating rice to collect the grain$ cutting grass and drying it$ collecting soya beans and e%en walking their one or two goats along the road. +oth men and women worked in the rice 'addies and in the fields. &he scenery itself was unusual to my Western mindK the hills were all co%ered with forests as well as with banana and mai3e 'lantations. &hey did not seem to ha%e any oBen working 9or at least 4 did not see any: and all the digging and 'loughing that 4 could see was done by hand. %entually we reached the 2yungwe 2ational forest where the road was really bad. 2o wonder nobody wanted to %enture FbeyondH. Some black-faced monkeys watched us 'ass by and$ as soon as we emerged from the forest 9about one hour later:$ tea 'lantations a''eared$ eBtending for miles around. %entually$ we reached what looked to me like a large %illage and +rother (harles announced that we had reached our destination. &his was (yangugu$ my new homeG Sunday 8 January 1t *6.7*$ the sun was slowly rising abo%e the misty waters of Lake >i%u$ which se'arates ?wanda from the D?(. +irds were cheerfully chir'ing away and 4 emerged from under the mos<uito net safe and sound. ;y new life in subtro'ical 1frica had started. 4 was staying in a guest house for a cou'le of days until +isho' >en,s house was FreadyH. 4t needed cleaning$ 4 was told$ as it had not been li%ed in for a few months. &he guest house was close to the school which made things easy$ to start with. School was due to start the neBt day and$ e%en on Sunday$ a teachers, meeting had been 'lanned for !5.7*. Since it was Sunday 4 decided to %enture to the cathedral for my first 1frican (hurch ser%ice. +ut how was 4 going to get there$ since the guest house was <uite a way from the townI &he answer wasM a motorbike taBi. &his was a first for me. 4 felt a bit ner%ous$ but 4 did not ha%e to beK helmets are 'ro%ided for the 'assengers and$ due to the many 'otholes on the road$ the dri%ers are %ery careful indeed. 1fter all$ their bikes are their income$ so they need to take good care of them and their 'assengersG &he cathedral had nothing of a Western cathedral about itK it was large and airy$ with doors and windows on four sides$ and one sim'le and beautiful stained glass window on the back wall. ;usic$ dancing and singing went on for

fifteen minutes until the clergy 9men and women: entered. Lne of the wardens offered me the hel' of a young translator$ an eBcellent nglish s'eaker$ but$ with the louds'eaker blasting$ it was useless as 4 could not hear$ at least at the beginning. Lnce the ser%ice 'ro'er started$ his hel' was fantastic. &he +isho'$ who is due to retire in February$ attended the Sunday ser%ice. 1t some 'oint he took the micro'hone and started an im'rom'tu sermonK F&he +isho'- lect will be enthroned on Feb !"$H he said$ Fand many %isitors will be coming from all o%er who will need feeding. So$ would e%eryone 'ledge either money or goodsIH So$ as 'eo'le 'ledged either a sack of 'otatoes or rice$ eggs$ chicken$ money and so on$ someone recorded the 'ledge in a large book. &he youngest 'erson to 'ledge was about siB or se%en years oldJ he 'romised a bottle of soda 'o' and em'tied his 'ocket of all his money. %eryone a''lauded. &hen the +isho' introduced me$ the only F;u3unguH 9white uro'ean: in the congregation$ and 4 had to go to the front where 4 was gi%en a round of a''lause. 4 felt terribly embarrassed and s'eechless. 4 was told to say something$ but the only thing 4 could think of was Fgood morningH in >inyarwanda 9the local language: which 4 had now 'ractised for three days. &hey all smiled and forga%e my inade<uacies. ;ore than two hours had already 'assed when the 'reacher started his fiery sermon$ which he$ fortunately$ ke't short. 4 was thinking of the meeting which the head-teacher had 'lanned for that afternoon at the school$ and 4 was star%ing. 4t was !7.** by the time the ser%ice finished$ and then$ of course$ there were 'eo'le to meet. 4 was relie%ed when someone offered me a lift back to the guest house. +y !5.!8 4 was at the school ready for the first staff meeting of the year. +ut where was e%eryoneI 4 was the first one thereG %entually$ they all staggered in$ one by one$ and the meeting started at about !8.!8. Lther teachers informed me that the meeting had been 'lanned for !8K**. HmmG 4t sounded as if each one had a different %ersionG 4 told myself to relaB and be 'atient. &he students were @ust returning from a two-month holiday. &eachers$ originating from ?wanda$ Uganda and the (ongo$ were 'leased to see one another. &he Head-teacher introduced me$ and the meeting started. ;uch of the meeting was de%oted to im'ro%ing results$ beha%iour$ and number of students. &here was little dialogue as most of the talking was done by the (hair 9Diocesan 1dministrator:$ the Head-teacher and the De'uty. %ery now and then a teacher raised his hand to 'ut in some suggestions. ;y translator soon got tired of his @ob and the light started fading. &here was a 'roblem with the electricity$ so the room was getting darker and darker and the wooden benches we were sitting on were becoming harder and harder. 0retty soon 4 closed my eyes$ knowing 9ho'ing: that nobody would notice$ as by then we could only see the sha'e of e%eryone. 1nd then$ suddenly$ e%eryone stood u' for final 'rayers. 4t was 'ast !#.** and it was dark... +ack at the guest house$ it was a relief to see +rother (harles in the restaurant watching football. He seemed to make things so sim'le and clear for me. ;y big concern was my work 'ermit. 4 only had a few days to a''ly for it$ otherwise 4 risked a fineG 1n a''lication had to be downloaded from the 4nternet and then 4 needed an official letter from the Head-teacher addressed to the

4mmigration Lffice$ as the one he had written 're%iously was Fonly an in%itationH. F2ot to worry$H said +rother (harles$ Fall will be L>.H 4 ho'ed he was rightG

Kigali, the capital, built on hills

Cyangugu, a town spread out on several hills too

The Anglican cathedral and parish church

The school

+ ,ow )bout ) Wor*ing -arty&

Week one Monday 9 January 1t */.!8 4 was at the school 9see 'icture: for a */.7* start. 2obody was there. So$ what was ha''eningI Lne by one$ teachers a''eared. F&his is the first day of school$H they said$ Fand things are not finalised yet.H 4 was gi%en my timetable and s'ent the morning with the teachers getting ac<uainted with them and familiarising myself with the curriculum. 4 disco%ered that the school was in fact a kind of technical college$ recei%ing 'ost L le%el students and 're'aring them for their 1 le%els in +usiness$ Secretarial Skills$ &ourism$ 1ccountancy and Hotel ;anagement. nglish is a 'rere<uisite and all sub@ects need to be taught in nglish. &o this effect many teachers ha%e been brought in from Uganda$ where nglish is s'oken fluently$ to re'lace French s'eaking (ongolese teachers$ while French-s'eaking ?wandan teachers are struggling to s'eak nglish and to teach in nglish. &he two French classes 4 was gi%en to teach were to be 'rimarily oral$ with class testing$ while 4 was to teach grammar to siB nglish classes and 're'are them for their national eBam at the end of year siB. 4 had a look at the final 1 le%el nglish 'a'ers for the Secretarial Skill s'ecialists$ and 4 was ama3ed to see how difficult they wereG 4 was gi%en se%eral workbooksK one for a F@ournalH in which 4 needed to record the day$ time$ sub@ect$ ob@ecti%e$ and goals achie%edJ one for lesson 'lans for each sub@ect and another one for marking. 4t would take me a few days to get my head around all this. 4n the morning the electricity was still not functioning. &he Head-teacher could not 'rint his letter for 4mmigration$ so e%entually his secretary 'ut the letter on my memory stick and went into town to 'rint it 9and in doing so inad%ertently loaded a %irus onto my memory stickG: +y the time the Headteacher and 4 were ready to go to the 4mmigration Lffice it was closed for a twohour lunch break. 0atience was$ once more$ the order of the day. %entually$ we got two motorbike taBis to take us to the 4mmigration Lffice$ only to find out that$ now$ a contract was needed$ e%en though 4 was a %olunteer. ;ore red ta'eG 4 was %ery tired and felt somewhat de'ressed$ but the Head-teacher$ +rother (harles and e%en the +isho'$ who ha''ened to be at the guest house$ and offered his car to trans'ort my luggage to my new home 9now ready: were %ery su''orti%e and encouraging. 1 good night,s slee' would hel'.

Tuesday 10 January What a relief to know that 4 could now un'ack my suitcases and start Fli%ingH. ;y work 'ermit 'a'ers$ with my 'ass'ort$ were in good hands with the Headteacher$ who would take them to the 4mmigration Lffice for me$ so that 4 could get on with the affairs of teaching. &eacher +ernard ha''ened to li%e right neBt door to me$ so we walked to school together on my first teaching day. He took me on %arious short cutsK these were back lanes and mud tracks which$ when wet$ would be rather sli''ery$ but 4 had my walking shoes on for the trek. We 'assed behind homes and gardens$ u' and down and down and u'. 1t one stage we had to @um' o%er a small ra%ine and then cross a %ery dee' one o%er a funny looking 'lank 9see 'icture:. F4s it safeIH 4 asked. FLh yes$H said +ernard$ Fe%en motorbikes go o%er it...H 4 had to look where 4 'ut my feet$ but tried not to look any dee'er... %entually we got to school. Lur fast 'ace had taken thirty minutes. &he staffroom was small and$ as one of the teachers commented$ F?ather tatty...H but new$ clean curtains were being hung and e%eryone chatted cheerfully. 4 was a bit anBious about teaching my first class$ but the Headteacher came in to introduce me. &his was a fairly small grou' of 1 le%el students learning secretarial skills$ but the class was not yet com'leteJ more would @oin the grou' later in the week$ as students arri%ed in small grou's by bus$ motorbike and on foot. 4n the meantime my lesson 'lans for the whole week$ in nglish and in French$ were sim'leK introductions and$ with the hel' of %arious ma's 4 had brought with me$ talking about where we all came from. Nuestions about family had to be carefully worded as 4 was aware that many students were genocide or'hans 9of one 'arent at least:$ so we only talked about siblings. ;any had between siB and ten brothers and sisters but$ in many cases$ half of them would ha%e been ado'ted siblings. &he teaching day started at */.7* and was followed by ten 'eriods of fifty minutes each$ with a ten-minute break at !*.** and at !).5*. &eaching finished at !5.7*$ when students had their lunch. &he staff had their lunch between !5.7* and !8.** in their staffroom. &hree 'lastic basins were brought each dayK two of them contained 'lain rice and the third one contained beans with cabbage. %en if the 'resentation was not the most a''eti3ing$ the content was in fact <uite nice and the teachers filled u' their 'lates with mountains of rice. Dinner 9for those teachers li%ing close by: was a''arently a re'lica of the lunch. &here was no meat as it is too eB'ensi%e. Forks had often to be shared among teachers as there were not enough of them$ but all was done in good humour. &here was also tea at !!.** and at that time teachers could go and buy a doughnut at the canteen neBt door$ a hut made of corrugated iron sheets where bananas$ doughnuts and some @uice were a%ailable for a few 'ence. &he tea 9without milk: came in big flasks and was so sweet that it tasted like syru'. Lo%ely$ if you ha%e a sweet toothG 4 was to teach nine 'eriods of fifty minutes each$ to start with$ each week$ and more would be added once 4 got settled$ if 4 agreed. 4n the meantime 4

started writing lesson 'lans with aims$ ob@ecti%es$ outlines and room for e%aluation. 4 had forgotten how tiresome this could be$ but also how useful it isG 1t the end of the day 4 met +rother (harles in town for some sho''ing. We went to the crowded market where he introduced me to some FreliableH ladies from whom 4 could buy %egetables and fruit when 4 was on my own. &hen we went to the com'uter sho' so that 4 could get a FdongleH for my netbook. Unfortunately the sho' was out of dongles and$ not @ust the sho'$ but the whole country$ a''arentlyG So 4 would ha%e to wait for a week or two until shi'ment arri%ed. 4n the meantime 4 went to the 4nternet cafA$ but the com'uter was so slow that it took ten minutes to log in$ and the dusty$ rusty keyboard was ancient and unfamiliar... 4 ga%e u' after a <uick note to the family to say that 4 was ali%e and well. Wednesday 11 January &oday 4 only had one French class to teach. 4n the small staffroom 4 chatted with the teachers and asked them if they would be willing to re'aint the room. F2o money$H they said. FWhat about if 4 buy the 'aintIH 4 re'lied. F&hat would be great$H they said. 1 generous friend of mine had gi%en me some money before 4 left$ Fto s'end on whate%er could hel' your tri'.H &o me$ working in a clean$ cheerful en%ironment was im'ortant$ and the dirty walls were de'ressing. 4 had a word with the Head-teacher and his De'uty. FFantastic$H they said$ Fyou can go into town with the +ursar once you ha%e finished teaching.H &he +ursar was French s'eaking$ so$ together$ we caught a crowded bus which dro''ed us near the market 'lace. We loaded oursel%es with 'aint$ brushes$ a roller$ a 'an 9to miB the 'aint with water:$ as well as a can of blackboard 'aint. &hen we went to the 'etrol station to buy two litres of 'etrol to miB the oil 'aint and clean the brushes. 2eBt was a sto' at the Fe%erythingH sho' to buy a wall clock. ;any teachers ha%e no watch and rely u'on their mobile tele'hone for the time. Lne missed the start of his lesson this morning$ as he did not know what time it was. He was com'laining about the lack of a wall clock. &his would surely be a good in%estmentG &he 'ainting 'arty was 'lanned for this Saturday. We wanted the 'lace to look nice when the ins'ectors showed u'$ which could be any time$ early in the term. Thursday 12 January 4 had a bad night as 4 ke't coughingJ dust and chalk got the better of me$ des'ite my dust mask and my wet s'onge to wi'e the blackboard 9brought with me in antici'ation:. &hen my tummy was 'laying u' and 4 had to rush to the loo... ob%iously the beans were also taking their toll on me... 4 had been in ?wanda one week. 4t would take a few more days for my body to get used to life in 1frica.

&oday 4 walked to school on my own$ taking a few sna'shots on the way. 4t was lo%ely and cool in the morning with the sun shining$ the birds chir'ing$ 'eo'le greeting me$ and children 'ractising their nglishK F;u3ungu$ ;u3ungu$ good morning$H or looking at me strangelyJ not only was 4 white$ but 4 wore this funny thing on my face called a dust mask. &hen children calledK Fmoney$ money.H 4 ignored that 'art and wa%ed back. 4 had the same class twice today. &hey were a fairly small grou'K around twenty-fi%e when they are all 'resent$ so it was 'ossible to 'ut the desks in a circle and do some really good work. 4 had 'lanned to re%ise some 'ast tense$ but shortly before my second class one of the teachers came o%er. F(an you stay on for another hour and teach that class the neBt 'eriod as well$ as 4 ha%e to go awayIH &his was uneB'ected$ but 4 was in 1frica and 4 knew that 4 should be ready for eBactly thatK the uneB'ected. Nuick brain wa%e about what 4 was going to do$ but then a thunderstorm burst and the hea%ens o'ened. Since the roofs of the classrooms are all made of corrugated iron sheets$ the noise$ when it rained$ was deafening. FEou can,t teach$H said another teacher$ Funless you ha%e a strong %oice.H Well$ not today when 4 ke't coughing. 4 <uickly went through some of the teaching books which were on the shel%es and took a 'ile of them to classJ 4 wrote the instructions on the board and the well disci'lined students got on with the work until the rain sto''ed. 4n fact we co%ered <uite a bit of ground in two hours. 0art of my weekend was going to be s'ent writing schemes of work. &he guidelines 'ro%ided by the ;inistry of ducation for the classes were %ery broad$ so the teachers had to 'ro%ide some definite aims and ob@ecti%es for each class. ;y work was laid out for me. &he new clock on the wall had the a''ro%al of the teachers and se%eral of them said they would hel' 'aint on Saturday$ but had no eB'erience of this ty'e of work. FWe$ in 1frica$ ha%e no money and we s'end whate%er we ha%eJ we don,t want to do things oursel%esJ but you$ in uro'e$ ha%e money and sa%e it$ and yet you do things like 'aint your walls yoursel%es$H said a cou'le of teachers. 4t will be interesting to see who shows u' on Saturday$ or if 4 am left on my own. =oing back home$ 4 walked slowly on the wet 'ath. &he rain had settled the dust$ but the rickety 'lank o%er the ra%ine was a bit sli''ery and 4 felt rather uncomfortable crossing itJ as for the @um' o%er the small ra%ine 9see 'hoto: 4 hesitated... &wo %ery tall gentlemen @ust ste''ed o%er itJ 4 wasn,t sure 4 could make itJ narrow skirts not recommended... but 4 ho''ed and sur%i%ed. +ack at the house$ the day guard was busily and beautifully ironing my newly washed clothes. Later on$ one of the night guards arri%ed and showed me where he sle'tK @ust outside the front door$ so as to 'rotect me. He asked how 4 was$ as he made me understand that he heard me coughing during the night. &he guards are so friendly and concerned. &hey try to teach me new words of >inyarwanda each day. 4 had 'lanned to learn one new word 'er day but my brain is slow to record.

Friday 13 January 4 had a sur'rise when 4 arri%ed at school. &here was no teaching in the morning. F&here is a big 1ssembly$H said the students$ Fas we ha%e %isitors.H 4 was not sure if the 1ssembly was because of the %isitors$ or if it was a tradition at the start of the year when most of the students were back. 4t was 'robably both$ but 4 would soon find out. &he %isitors were a grou' of about one hundred students$ half of them boys$ accom'anied by two members of staff from their schoolJ they had come all the way from >igali to study tourism here$ as their school had closed down and the =o%ernment had decided to send them to our school instead. 1 great honour for this 'lace$ but where were the boys going to li%e$ since this had been$ u' to now$ a boarding school for girls$ and only local dayboys were admittedI 4t all became clear later on. &he house$ u'hill from the school$ where male teachers used to li%e would now become the boys, dormitory. &he teachers mo%ed to another house further away. 4 was slowly getting familiar with the school terminologyK since the school is a FseniorH school and caters for years four$ fi%e and siB 9the last three years of secondary school:$ the classes are called S5$ S8$ S6. &hen classes are subdi%ided into grou's 1$ +$ and ($ so as not to be too large. 1round four hundred students sat in the huge hall. 4 was ama3ed to see students Fstrolling inH late from their dormitories$ one by one$ without hurry$ into the hall$ while the teachers waited$ outside$ until all students had arri%ed. 1t last$ when they seemed to be all there$ the Head-teacher$ followed by all the teachers$ walked in and all the students stood u'$ a''lauded and cheered. 4ntroductions$ 'rayers$ and then the Director of studies called each teacher$ who stood u'$ wa%ed and announced what he or she was teaching. 9&here are only two women teachers including me$ all the rest are men.: ach time the students cheered. When my turn came$ 4 said that 4 brought them Fgreetings from nglandH. =reat cheers followed. 1ll this was %ery new to me. 1fter the %arious s'eeches$ the Head boy and Head girl and all the 'refects 9about twenty of them: were introduced. ;ore s'eeches$ more 'rayers$ and it was lunchtime... ;y two teaching hours had disa''eared... 4 was %ery 'leased when 0hili''e$ one of the Franco'hone teachers$ asked me if he could get some 'ersonal nglish tutoring with me. He had been teaching ;anagement$ for the last fi%e years$ in French$ and now was unable to do it in nglish$ as his nglish was too limited. F&hree months with regular lessons with you would really hel'$H he said. So$ there and then$ we started. 1s this was Friday$ 4 %entured into town on my own. Ha%ing learned to say FdowntownH in >inyarwanda 4 asked a young woman$ going in that direction$ if she was going there. She 'robably thought that 4 could s'eak more than my now eight words$ as she continued s'eaking$ sur'rised that 4 could not answer. 4 was 'lanning to %enture on the market and try to find the lo%ely lady$ to whom +rother (harles had introduced me$ who could hel' me. &here were so many back alleys that 4 almost got lost$ but 4 got there e%entually. 2ow 4 had to find this charming lady among all the black faces who looked so similar to one another. 4 did not need to worry$ as my white face stood out and my new friend$

1ngAline$ stood u' with a broad smile as she recognised me. She s'oke French$ so she took my bag and went around testing the %egetables and the fruit to make sure they were L> and at the right 'rice. She worshi's at the 1nglican cathedral$ so 4 was 'leased to know 4 would see her there. She talked about herself. F4 am a widow$H she said$ Fand 4 am ill. 4 ha%e 14DS.H She was the first one 4 met with the illness but 'robably not the last. Saturday 14 January 4 had a bad night with a streaming cold$ but the tummy was im'ro%ing... 4 @ust wanted to stay in bed$ but this was out of the <uestion$ since 4 had organised the working 'arty... 4 allowed myself forty-fi%e minutes to get to school at a snail,s 'ace$ and got there eBactly at *".**. &he students were all in FmuftiH 'ulling weeds and cleaning 'aths. 4 was the first one in the staffroom and 4 started washing the walls. &hen they arri%ed$ one by one$ at *".7*$ !*.**$ and !!.**. &he Head-teacher came in to ha%e a look to see what was ha''ening. &he school 'erson in charge of maintenance$ +a'tiste$ was recruitedJ 4 was told that he was an FeB'ertH in 'ainting$ so he was going to 'aint with the roller. &o the staffroom was added the corridor$ which looked %ery dirty indeed$ but there was not enough 'aint. U'on my re<uest$ one teacher ho''ed on a motorbike and went to get more 'aint$ while others were washing the walls and 'ainting the window-frame. We had hardly started when the staff decided it was time for a Ftea-breakH$ which took 'lace in the ad@acent com'uter room$ since the staffroom was out of commission. &hen there were the blackboards to re'aint. Unlike the ones in uro'e$ these measure about siB metres in length by one metre fifty in height... We managed to 'aint three$ lea%ing eight to do neBt week... %erybody worked hard including the +ursar who had hel'ed me buy the 'aint and showed u' in her beautiful dress with coordinated head dress 9see 'icture:. She took the brush and decided that she would ha%e her office 'ainted too... 1nd then$ they all disa''eared suddenly$ without a word$ lea%ing 'aint cans o'en$ brushes and rollers dri''ing with 'aint. 4 was greatly amused. &he floors were all co%ered in 'aint. F&he students will clean this tomorrow$H said one teacher. F+ut oil 'aint can,t wait until tomorrow$H 4 said$ Fit must be cleaned u' right away with 'etrol.H So it was left to me to com'lete the taskG What funG +y !8.** 4 was on my way home$ eBhausted but 'leased. %eryone had been absolutely mar%ellous in their effort to hel' make the school cleaner and more welcoming for our neBt %isitors. &here remained the toilet room to redecorate and the toilet to re'air 9the flusher did not work: but this was a maintenance @ob. +ack home$ shortly after finishing my dinner$ 4 had %isitorsK a cou'le$ both 'astors$ and their eight-month-old daughter neatly tucked in on ;um,s back. 0astor +arbara is a 'astor at the cathedral$ while her husband is a 'astor in a %illage three hours walk from here. Ln Sunday he tra%els siB hours$ to and from the 'arish$ when he walksJ sometimes he hires a motorbike. &hey li%e close by and$ since 4 had been introduced by the +isho' last week at church$ they wanted to welcome me as their neighbour.

0astor +arbara is a member of the ;others, Union. 1s such she eB'lained to me that the ;U$ here$ ha%e organised a nutrition 'rogramme in a building close by$ originally s'onsored by a branch of the ;U in ngland. She said that she would take me there$ sometime$ on a Saturday. Sunday 15 January 1nother bad night with blocked nose and cough$ but after a hot shower and a good breakfast on the 'atio$ with the incredible %iew of Lake >i%u and beautiful$ colourful birds chir'ing around$ 4 felt one hundred 'er cent better. &he house is situated on ;ont (yangugu$ one of the se%eral hills o%erlooking the lake$ about a mile away from the cathedral$ which sits on another hill close to the downtown called >amembe. With my good shoes on$ 4 was not going to walk$ so 4 called a motorbike taBi. He was late$ but for a three-hour ser%ice 4 didn,t mindG -ean$ a teacher at school$ was ushering today 9he actually is one of the church wardens:J so he sat me neBt to a tall$ handsome man who s'oke eBcellent nglish and translated many 'arts for me. Howe%er 4 could hardly hear what he said for the shouting in the micro'hones. 0rayers and sermons were literally yelled out. &his was hard for me to get used to. 4 was getting a headacheG &hen thunder started rumbling and rain began to 'our. 2o fear of the rain interfering with the s'eaking as it did in the classroom. 4 could not e%en hear the rain on the iron roof as it was drowned by the shouting and the singing... &he most beautiful 'art for me was the youth choir$ and 4 wished 4 had brought some kind of recorder with me. &hen there was fundraising again for the new bisho',s rece'tion. &he current +isho' was away today$ so a woman took charge of the 'ledges. Some items which were 'ledged last week were brought in and auctioned$ and since my translator for today had been called to the 'ul'it he could not eB'lain to me what was ha''ening. &here were bidding$ discussions$ and all kinds of goings on. +y now the rain had cooled the tem'erature down and 4 felt cold$ my nose was streaming$ and 4 was dreaming of a warm bed and a hot drink. How would 4 get homeI 4 did not bring any rain gear. 1s 4 was dwelling on my dark thoughts$ suddenly the whole congregation looked back towards meK the lady with the micro'hone had decided that the Fmu3unguH 9the white woman: should 'ledge. Whereas all the 'ledges had been %oluntary$ 4 felt 'ut on the s'ot and terribly uncomfortable$ es'ecially when the same woman ke't on talking and e%eryone was laughing as they were looking at me. 4 @ust wished the ground had o'ened and 4 could ha%e disa''eared below. Lne of my colleagues from school$ who was 'resent$ came to my rescue. 4 eB'lained that 4 felt <uite unwell and terribly uncomfortable$ but asked him to 'lease make a 'ledge for me in order to calm the 'eo'le down. He did. &hey a''lauded. &hey were satisfied. 4 felt disa''ointed$ but then$ FWelcome to 1frica$ DanileGH ;y colleague then told me that someone would gi%e me a lift back home. 4 was relie%edG

+ack in the house$ 4 'ut on all my warm clothes$ had a hot drink and a hot homemade sou' and relaBed. 4 would li%e$ but 4 felt rather roughG &his had been my worst day so farG 4 'rayed that they might be few and far betweenGG

I had to ju p over the !irst ravine

The second ravine was crossed by walking over a narrow plank"

A working party# even the $ursar is washing the !loor

%utside, the door and window !ra es are painted