Scooters & Mopeds Unlimited Manual for Euro, Retro, Sport Owners

1. Introduction 2. Scooter Start Up Procedure A. Use a Professional Mechanic B. Scooter Assembly C. Re uired !ools ". Uncratin# your Scooter $. Installin# the Battery %. %uel and &il '. Startin# your Scooter (. Ma)in# Ad*ustments Before Ridin# +. Consumable Items A. Spar) Plu#s B. &il and ,ubricants 1. Motor &il 2. !ransmission &il +. 2 Stro)e &il -. Bra)e and !hrottle Cables .. /heel and Steerin# 0ec) Bearin#s -. !roubleshootin# .. /inter &peration 1. Storin# your Scooter 2. Recommended !ools for your Scooter 3. 24Stro)e Carburetor Ad*ustment 5. /arranty 16. Contact Us

!han) you for purchasin# your ne7 scooter from Scooters 8 Mopeds Unlimited. /e
are 9ery #lad to be able to offer you this scooter. /e are confident: 7ith the proper maintenance schedule: that you 7ill en*oy your scooter for a lon# time. ;ou ha9e purchased a ne7 motor scooter: 7hich is not a toy. !hese scooters are made in China 7here scooters are a 7ay of life for many people. A scooter may be the only transportation a person has: so they ta)e #reat care in manufacturin#. If you 7ere to buy a scooter locally: you 7ould pay t7ice the price: plus pay a set4up fee to ha9e a professional assemble your scooter and ad*ust it properly. ;ou #ot a #reat price on a brand ne7 motor scooter: 7hich 7ill last a 9ery lon# time if you follo7 the manufacturer<s brea)4in instructions and maintenance schedule. SCOOTER START UP PROCEDURE Use a Professional Mechanic Please ha9e a professional motorcycle technician prep your scooter. /e hi#hly recommend payin# =.64=2. to ha9e a professional mechanic assemble your ne7 scooter to be sure it runs 166> perfectly. !he number one reason to use a professional mechanic is because the carburetor may re uire some ad*ustment to #et your scooter runnin# perfect. !his is best done by a professional. !he reason your carburetor many need ad*ustin# is simple? 1. ;our altitude abo9e sea le9el may be different than the manufacturers 2. ;our scooter has been sittin# in a ship for a fe7 7ee)s: then customs: and our 7arehouse +. After the en#ine is bro)en in: the idle 7ill need to be set properly !he carburetor ad*ustment information is located at the end of this manual: before the 7arranty. Please read it carefully if your scooter needs the ad*ustment. "o not 9oid your 7arranty by not brea)in# in your scooter correctly.

Scooter Assem l! Print this and #i9e it to you professional to use as the step4by4step instructions Before startin#: please read our disclaimer pa#e: it contains important information about the operation and o7nership of your ne7 scooter. !he follo7in# instructions assume that you ha9e some mechanical abilities and #eneral motorcycle )no7led#e. !hese are *ust #eneral instructions@ you should ha9e a motorcycle shop do the set4up. Most motorcycle or la7n mo9er repair centers 7ill be able to help you for a small fee. !he a9era#e is =.6. Be careful mo9in# around the crate: it 7ei#hs 216 pounds: so #et some helpA Tools and Supplies "eeded Cla7 hammer 16mm 7rench /ire cutters $ye protection 'lo9es ,on# slee9e shirt RaBor )nife 2 pints of 2 cycle oil Cfor 2 stro)e en#ines onlyD 1.. #allons of unleaded fuel: 56 octane or better. +66ml clean container to hold oil Small funnel %lat head and Phillips scre7dri9ers Some friends to help and the thin# bet7een you rearsA

Uncratin# !our Scooter /ear #lo9es and eye protection at all times durin# assembly. Before uncratin# the scooter or openin# the crate: please chec) the model number on the crate to 9erify that you recei9ed the correct scooter model and color. !hese are the model numbers for the scooters 7e sell? E,.6F!41. E,.6F!42B E,.6F!421 $uro Sport Retro

If the color or model is different from the scooter you purchased from us: please call us at 52342224226+. Also: be sure to chec) the crate for eGternal dama#e. If the crate is dama#ed in any7ay: STOP: and call us at 52342224226+ to file a claim 7ith the shippin# company. !he shippin# company 7ill 7ant to see the crate as it 7as deli9ered: so do not open itA /e insure all shipments and 7hen they lea9e our 7arehouse they are not dama#ed in any7ay. /e do not #uarantee the shipment@ the shippin# company is responsible for shippin# your scooter 7ithout dama#es. &nce you are sure the crate is in perfect condition: use the follo7in# steps to uncrate your scooter? 1. /e ha9e found the easiest 7ay to uncrate the scooter is? A. Remo9e the cardboard boG from around the 7ood frame crate:

!his is the crate 7ithout cardboard around it B. Remo9e all the an#le support boards 7ith a cla7 hammer. Be careful 7ith the nails and pic) them up as you #o. C. Cut the three 7ires holdin# the scooter in place. !here are t7o on the lu##a#e rac)

and one on the left handle bar #rip. ". Clip the tie 7rap on the left hand bra)e. C!his is holdin# the rear bra)e in the loc) positionD $. Remo9e t7o 16mm nuts on the board holdin# the footrest in place. %. Remo9e the foot brace or mo9e it aside. Be careful not to scratch the scooter 7ith the 7ires or bolts. '. Remo9e the center support boards 7ith a cla7 hammer. (. Remo9e the top and sides 7ith a cla7 hammer. I. ;ou should be able to remo9e the scooter. 'et some help: its hea9yA 2. Remo9e e9erythin# from under the seat.

$nstallin# the %atter! Be careful not to touch the battery chemicals. Use #lo9es: 7ear a lon# slee9e shirt and 7ear eye protection.

A. Remo9e the battery and electrolyte from the boG. B. Remo9e the red tape from the battery. C. Carefully remo9e the blac) plastic top on the electrolyte and sa9e the top. CIt 7ill be used to seal the battery laterD ". %lip the bottles of electrolyte o9er and sit each bottle o9er the top of the battery hole.

0o7 push do7n on the bottles and the battery 7ill brea) the aluminum foil. Use a raBor )nife to ma)e air holes in the bottles. $. ,et the fluid completely drain into the battery. %. Use the blac) lid to seal the battery. '. Allo7 the battery to sit for 1 minutes before char#in# it 7ith a 6.2 amp char#er for . hours. (. !he battery 7ill either install under the floor mat or under the seat: dependin# on the model. I. Usin# the nuts and bolts from the battery boG: install the t7o C2D positi9e connections to the positi9e side of the battery and the one C1D blac) 7ire to the #round. Install the 7ires on top: if they 7ill not slide in the side. E. Place the battery and replace the co9er. If scre7s are used to hold the co9er in place: they are in a plastic ba# that 7as under the seat. H. "ispose of the empty fluid bottle properly.

&uel and Oil A. %or 2 cycle scooters: remo9e the blac) oil cap under the seat Cor on the ri#ht side of the Retro 21D and fill it up 7ith 2 cycle motor oil. It holds a lot of oil: so fill it up. If you donIt fill it all the 7ay up: a u''er ma! sound to let !ou (now !ou are low on )*c!cle oil+ B. %ill up the #as tan) 7ith unleaded fuel. Ma)e sure that the cap is installed properly before operatin#. Chec) for lea)s before operatin#. ItIs uncommon: but hoses can come lose durin# shippin# from China. All you need to do it chec) for lea)s and ma)e sure the lines are 7ell attached. Call us if you ha9e any lea)s you canIt fi#ure it out in a fe7 minutes. /eIre here to helpA C. !he transfer caseJ#ear boG on the lo7er left ta)es +66 ml for 16/4+6 for 24stro)e and 166 ml of 16/4+6 oil for the !urbo model. "o not o9er fill this or you 7ill 9oid the 7arrantyA !he scooters are shipped 7ith oil: but the oil may ha9e lea)ed durin# shippin#. !o be sure you ha9e enou#h oil: drain it into a clean container and refill. Ma)e sure you ha9e at least the re uired amount of oil@ a little more is fine. In most cases: 7e ha9e found more oil than this: so *ust fill it bac) up 7ith 7hat it had. If you need to add oil: use 16/4 +6 motor oil and do not o,er fill+

!he filler hole is mar)ed K$K in the picture belo7. !he drain plu# is mar)ed K%K. !he scre7 mar)ed K'K is the safety filler scre7. Remo9e this scre7 7hile re4fillin# the oil and you 7ill be sure not to trash your clutch. !he oil 7ill simply drain out of this hole before #ettin# too hi#h and touchin# the clutch.

". In your first tan) of #as: put . fluid ounces of 24stro)e oil in the #as tan). Reduce this amount by one ounce each subse uent fill up. Use - ounces on the second fill up: + ounces on the third: 2 ounces on the -th and 1 ounce on the .th. After . fill ups: you do not ha9e to add any more 2 stro)e oil into the #as tan). !his helps brea) in and condition the en#ine. -OT T$P 4 /e ha9e seen $uro: Retro and Sport scooters 7ith )in)ed oil lines #oin# into the oil in*ector. STOP and ma)e sure your scooter is #ettin# oil properly. ;ou should see smo)e comin# out of the tail pipe. If you do not: please ha9e a professional chec) your oil pump and ma)e sure the line comin# from the tan) to the pump is not )in)ed. 0ot doin# this could ruin a piston and youIll be 7ithout your scooter 7hile you ha9e someone repair it. So itIs easier to chec) this and fiG it no7. If you need further info: contact us. .arnin#? 0e9er start a motor 9ehicle in an enclosed area. Al7ays allo7 for plenty of 9entilation. !he fumes could be harmful or e9en cause death.

Startin# !our Scooter A. !he )ic)4start is the only 7ay 7e ha9e found to start the bi)es initially. B. Place the scooter on the center stand: not the side stand. C. Some scooters ha9e an electric cho)e. If not: you 7ill need to cho)e the scooter 7hile startin#. ". "o not #i9e too much #as and )eep pumpin# the )ic)4starterA $. It 7ill ta)e any7here from 2 4 16 minutes to start the first time. But once it starts: it 7ill run fine and start fine 7ith the electric starter button. Pro lems Startin# "ew Scooter !he first time you start your ne7 scooter 7ill al7ays be the hardest. !he reason is because on initial startup: there is no fuel in the carburetor fuel bo7l. !here is air that is trapped in the fuel lines: 7hich pre9ents the fuel from reachin# the carburetor.

!he fuel shut off 9alue on our 'eely scooters has an automatic shutoff. 0o manual shutoff is re uired. !he scooter has se9eral fuel lines connectin# to#ether and runnin# to different places. As part of the automatic operation of this 9al9e: the 9al9e itself is located hi#her than the #as tan). &n initial startups: air is trapped in the #as lines. Since the 9al9e is hi#her than the #as tan)@ the fuel 7ill not defy #ra9ity and run uphill. /e ha9e a solution that 7ill help the fuel push the trapped air out of the #as lines. "ote/ $f !ou do not feel comforta le tr!in# these steps to fi0 the scooter startup pro lems as descri ed elow, ha,e a mechanic do these steps+ Also, it is often

helpful to ha,e two people to do the process, therefore (eepin# the scooter from leanin# too far+ Solution Put the scooter<s rear tire on a mil) crate Cor some other stand about 1 foot hi#h: as seen in the pictures belo7D. (old both bra)es and lean the scooter as far as possible 7ithout losin# control or scratchin# the scooter. ,oo) at the front of the scooter: and touch the front for) to the #round. (old in the leaned position for . seconds. !hen: #et on the other side of the scooter and repeat the leanin# process: and hold for another . seconds. Put the rear 7heel bac) on the #round: center the scooter on its center )ic)stand: and push the starter button and hold it for + seconds. "o not run the battery do7n. If the scooter has fuel in the carburetor: it 7ill start ri#ht a7ay C7ithin + secondsD. If it doesn<t start ri#ht a7ay: repeat the leanin# process to both sides a#ain. Heep leanin# and attemptin# to start until the scooter starts. Sometimes: the fuel 7ill #et in the carburetor on the first try. Sometimes it ta)es . or more tries. &nce there is fuel in the carburetor: the scooter 7ill start and )eep runnin#. Remember: you are tryin# to #et the #as to run uphill and force out the trapped air. If you need t7o people to safely do this procedure: do not attempt it alone. 1eanin# the scooter without raisin# the rear wheel is useless ecause the (ic(stand pre,ents the scooter from leanin# ,er! far+

It has been our eGperience that if you scooter 7ill not start initially: the lac) of fuel in the carburetor is the only problem. /e ha9e ne9er encountered another reason 7hy your scooter 7on<t start. &nce the carburetor #ets #as: the scooters start. &ur scooters are all tested at the factory C7hich is 7hy you 7ill see a little milea#e on the speedometerD. !hey are started up and dri9en for a couple of miles: so you can ha9e confidence that they do start and 7or) fine: se the factory 7ould not ship us a scooter that didn<t 7or).

Ma(in# Ad2ustments %efore Ridin# A. Chec) the tire pressure. ;ou should run +1 psi CcoldD in the front and rear. B. Chec) the mo9ement of e9erythin#. Also chec) all of the bolts to be sure they are ti#ht. ;ou should chec) the bolts after a fe7 hundred miles of use to be sure they ha9e not 7or)ed lose. C. Ad*ust the bra)es if needed. Ma)e sure the bra)es 7or) before ridin#. ". !est the li#hts and turn si#nals. $. Read the manual if included. !he manual #i9es you #ood ad9ice on ridin# and maintainin# your scooter: includin# your brea)4in procedure and periods. Also familiariBe yourself 7ith the controls before ridin#. %. Some carburetors re uire ad*ustin#. !his is best done by someone 7ith small en#ine mechanical eGperience. If the scooter doesnIt idle 9ery 7ell: this is easy to fiG by turnin# the idle scre7 on the carburetor. "o not attempt if you are not sure ho7 it 7or)s. See the section on carburetor ad*ustment for a step4by4step process on doin# this. '. !a)e it easy for the first fe7 hundred miles. Statistics sho7 that most accidents happen 7ithin the first fe7 hundred miles. So ta)e it easyA /e also recommend you ta)e a class on motor scooter ridin#. !his mi#ht sa9e your lifeA (. ,oanin# your scooter to a friend may sound li)e a #reat idea: but many accidents happen this 7ay: so thin) before you loan.

CO"SUMA%1E $TEMS Spar( Plu#s !he follo7in# is a list of commonly a9ailable spar) plu#s that 7ill 7or). Please bear in mind that most of this information comes from cross references pro9ided by a 9ariety of manufacturers: and you may find one brand 7or)s better than another for your particular scooter. Personally: I prefer the 0'H plu#s simply because I )no7 them better than the rest. !hese spar) plu#s 7ill 7or) for the $uro: Retro: Sport and !urbo models? 0'H 4 BP1(S: BPR1(S 0" 4 /22%PR4U AC 4 R-2C%S Champion 4 F,32;C ACC$, 4 -.+ Some #eneral notes on spar) plu#s? !he 'eely scooter 7or)s best 7ith a Pro*ected tip spar)plu# Cusually desi#nated by a KPK in the number: ie? BP1(SD. !he center electrode in this type of plu# stic)s out of the bottom sli#htly. ;ou can use a standard plu# Cli)e a B1(SD: but the shorter electrode has the same effect as retardin# the timin# sli#htly: and the scooter may not run as 7ell as it does 7ith the pro*ected type. "o 0&! try to run a plu# that is pro*ected more than a millimeter or t7o or it mi#ht connect 7ith the pistonA Compare the ne7 plu# to the old one: and if you ha9e any doubts about the tip len#th after installin# a ne7 spar)plu#: turn the en#ine o9er slo7ly by hand to ma)e sure it spins easily. !he KRK in most numbers usually stands for KResistorK type plu#s: as in CR2(S. !he scooter #enerally doesn<t care if you run an KRK type plu# or not: but your nei#hbors mi#htA !he main purpose of KRK type plu#s is to reduce radio and !L interference. If you<re #ettin# complaints about your scooter causin# noise on nearby radios and other electronic de9ices: you mi#ht 7ant to run 7ith KRK type plu#s. Spar) Plu#s come in different heat ran#es as indicated by the actual number in the I". /ith Eapanese plu#s: the heat ran#e #oes UP as the number #oes "&/0. %or eGample: an 0'H BPR.(S is the same plu# as an 0'H BPR1(S eGcept that it operates at a hi#her temperature. ,i)e7ise: an 0'H BPR2(S operates at a cooler temperature. /ith American spar) plu#s: the numbers are re9ersed. A Champion RM2 is a cooler plu# than an RM3: and an RM5 7ould be the hotter one. /ith $uropean plu#s: there is no easy 7ay to tell: so you<d best stic) to the manufacturer<s cross4reference for the plu# you 7ant.

/hy 7orry about heat ran#esN In all li)elihood: you 7on<t ha9e to. It depends mostly on the type of ridin# you do: and the uality of fuel Cand oil in the case of 2 stro)esD you use. If you ma)e a lot of short trips 7here the en#ine does not #et up to operatin# temperature for 9ery lon#: the plu# may become Kcarbon fouledK after a 7hile 7ith a buildup of thic): sooty blac) stuff on the electrode. !he scooter may run poorly: misfire: or may not start easily because carbon: bein# conducti9e: 7ill dra7 the spar) a7ay from the #ap 7ithout i#nitin# the fuel in the cylinder. A ne7 plu# 7ill cure the problem: but you mi#ht consider #oin# one heat ran#e KhotterK so the ne7 plu# has a chance to burn off the carbon build up before it becomes a problem a#ain. If you ma)e a lot of lon# trips 7here the en#ine stays at operatin# temperature for a lon# time: you mi#ht notice the plu# de9elops a li#ht #ray or 7hite colored buildup: and the electrode may loo) o9erheated. ;ou mi#ht try a ne7 plu# that<s one heat ran#e KcoolerK. If you find your old spar)plu# has a nice tan to chocolate bro7n color: stic) 7ith the same type. !hat<s about as #ood as it can #et.

O$1S A"D 1U%R$CA"TS Motor Oil People ha9e as)ed us a lot of uestions about motor oil for their 9ehicles: and 7e ha9e narro7ed it do7n to one simple ans7er. (ere<s e9erythin# the modern consumer needs to )no7 about motor oil? %u! the est oil !ou can afford, and chan#e it re#ularl!+ Chan#e !our oil after the first 344(m, then e,er! 5444(m thereafter+ !hat<s itA &f course there<s a lot OmoreO to oil than that. !here are tons of research papers on the sub*ect: but in the end: the only thin# your 'eely scooter cares about the oil in its cran)case is that it<s clean: fresh: and there<s enou#h of it. Choose a seasonable #rade of oil: 167+6 in colder 7eather and 267-6 in 7armer 7eather: and ma)e sure its API Ratin# is S% or better. ;ou find the API Ratin# inside the little circle on the bac) of the container. !he current API ratin# on most motor oils is S,: 7hich is more than ade uate for 'eely - stro)e Scooters. Transmission Oil &n all 'eely 2 stro)es 7ith the eGception of the !urbo because of its CL! dri9e: use +66ml to -.6ml of seasonal #rade motor oil. Usin# more than that can ma)e a mess of the centrifu#al clutch. ;ou *ust need enou#h to )eep the dri9e chain and #ears 7et. In this case: the cheaper stuff is probably better se you 7ant to a9oid synthetic oils 7ith friction modifiers that can also ha9e an ad9erse effect on the clutch. &n the !urbo: the final dri9e #ets 166ml of a seasonal #rade of motor oil. Since the CL! CConstant Lelocity !ransmissionD is a dry belt dri9e: you only need enou#h oil to lubricate the rear 7heel bearin#s. !he - stro)e scooters also ha9e a type of CL! called a Lariable Shea9e: 7hich does not re uire lubrication li)e the chain in the 2 stro)e transmissions. !hese also re uire 9ery little oil: about 166ml. %ill them until oil runs bac) out of the filler bolt hole: and let it drip out until it stops. 0ote that the filler hole is located in such a 7ay that you can<t o9erfill it: unless you stand the scooter 9ertically on its front 7heelA ) Stro(e Oil Please don<t be afraid to spend some money hereA Buy the best uality oil you can afford. I #et complaints from 2 stro)e o7ners about too much smo)e@ oil fouled spar) plu#s: and blac) oily dischar#e from the tailpipe. /hat I usually find in their oil tan) is a dar) #reen or blue KPremiGK type of 24stro)e oil that is better suited for chainsa7s and leaf blo7ers.

!his type of oil is #enerally petroleum based: and is supposed to be miGed 7ith #asoline in the fuel tan). Althou#h the scooters usually run fine 7ith it: it tends to be smo)y: dirty: and smells nasty. A much better choice for the oil in*ected 'eely 2 stro)e motors is a synthetic or semi4 synthetic blend of Kin*ectorK oil: 7hich is 9e#etable based rather than petroleum based. !hese oils are 9irtually smo)e free: 9ery lo7 in residual carbon content: ha9e superior lubricatin# ualities: and actually smell rather pleasant. !hey<re also a lot friendlier to the en9ironment. !hese 2 Stro)e In*ector &ils can be found at most Motorcycle and Marine shops. !hey are more eGpensi9e than the Petroleum PremiG oils: but remember that a #allon 7ill probably last you a year: and they are definitely 7orth the eGpense in ma)in# your 24 stro)e scooter more pleasant to ride. !he uantity of oil you 7ill use depends on ho7 you ride. Eust top4off the oil tan) to 7ithin PK of the nec) of the tan) Q "& 0&! &L$R%I,,A Do not use pre*mi0 oil+ PremiG oil tends to deteriorate the rubber components in an oil in*ector system causin# them to lea). !here are a number of different brands of 24stro)e oil on the mar)et: and some of them can be used either as KPremiGK oil or KIn*ectorK oil. Eust ma)e sure that the oil you use is suitable for use in &il In*ected Motors. !his information should be on the container: but if you ha9e any doubts: as) the sales person 7here you purchase your 24stro)e oil. A #ood brand that 7e recommend is Amsoil. A #allon costs =15.26 on their 7ebsite. ;ou can see their product info here? http?JJ777.amsoil.comJproductsJaio.html %ra(e and Throttle Ca les &nce a year or so: disconnect the cables from their control le9ers or t7ist #rip: and dribble a fe7 drops of household oil: such as + in 1 or /"4-6: into the cable. A KfunnelK made of aluminum foil taped around the cable housin# end 7ill ma)e this *ob a little less messy. Add a touch of #rease to the little KbarrelK shaped end as you re4install it: and your cables 7ill last a 9ery lon# time. .heel and Steerin# "ec( %earin#s 0ormally: these 7on<t need much attention as lon# as they are not loose or KsloppyK: althou#h they should be inspected from time to time. /ith the front 7heel off the #round: push and pull on the handlebars to feel any Kclic)in#K that indicates 7ear is present or ad*ustment is necessary in the steerin# nec) bearin#s. ,i)e7ise: #rab the front 7heel and push4pull side7ays to feel for the same Kclic)in#K. If you suspect ad*ustment or replacement is necessary: it 7ould be 7ise to ta)e the scooter to a shop 7ith the

necessary tools to do the *ob correctly. !he rear 7heel does not ha9e bearin#s in it: but it is a #ood idea to smear a dab of #rease on the aGle splines once a year: or e9ery time the rear 7heel is remo9ed from the scooter. Use care to )eep the #rease off of the bra)e shoesA

TROU%1ES-OOT$"6 7/ M! scooter ma(es a loud noise, and then stalls when $8m ridin# it+ A? ;ouIre floodin# the en#ine out. Read the manual and brea) it in before doin# full throttle runs. After the scooter has been properly bro)en in: you can accelerate to the speed you 7ish to ride: then bac) off of the throttle to maintain the speed. If you hold the throttle 7ide4open: it 7ill flood the en#ine and stall the scooter: 7hich may cause dama#e. 7/ M! scooter will arel! run+ A1? Sounds li)e a carb ad*ustment is needed. Carb Ad*ustment ran#ed from Kspot4onK to Kbarely able to runK. If you are ha9in# problems 7ith it: #ently turn the miGture scre7 in until it stops: then ac( it out 5 59) to 5 39: turns and ad*ust the idle speed scre7 for the lo7est: smooth idle: and they should be close enou#h. Be sure that you bac) the miGture scre7 out. If you run your scooter 7ith the maGimum air miGture: your scooter 7ill run too lean: and you 7ill Rcold seiBeS your scooter. !he pistons 7ill be seiBed to the cylinder: and this is: of course: not co9ered under 7arranty. ;ou can read more about ad*ustin# the carb in this tech area. A2? Spar)plu# 'ap 4 'eely recommends a #ap of 6.1 to 6.3mm. I found most plu#s #apped at 6.+ to 6..mm. !he 7ider #ap pro9ides a lar#er: more reliable spar): and is less prone to foulin#. /eI9e recei9ed se9eral calls on this problem: mostly 7ith the F! .6 2 stro)e scooters. !he !ypical symptoms are? K!he scooter ran fine 7hen I first #ot it: then it started stallin# 7hen I opened the throttle past half7ay or so. 0o7 it 7onIt start at all. /hatIs 7ron#NK. /e ha9e found that on some of the /abron Carburetors supplied to 'eely: the midran#e Eet 0eedle is set too rich. /hat happens is that the eGtra fuel collects in the en#ine case: and e9entually the miGture becomes so rich that it immediately fouls the spar) plu#. If you ha9e run into this problem: 7e su##est you try the follo7in#? 1. Refer to the !ech article on !7o Stro)e Carburetor Ad*ustment Part II: !he Midran#e. 2. Unscre7 the top from the carburetor to7er to remo9e the Slide and Eet 0eedle assembly. +. Remo9e the Slide from the throttle cable: and #ently push the Eet 0eedle out of the slide. "onIt lose the !hrottle return sprin#: or the sprin# clip that holds the Eet 0eedle in placeA -. Lerify that the KCK clip on the Eet 0eedle is in the C$0!$R C+rdD position. !his is 7here it belon#s on a ne7 'eely. If it is there already: and you still ha9e the same runnin# problems: try mo9in# the clip up to the 2nd position from the KheadK of the

needle: but no furtherA ItIs better to run a little too rich than too lean. .. Re4assemble the throttle slide assembly onto the throttle cable: but do not install it into the carburetor yet. 1. Remo9e the spar) plu#: clean it: chec) the #ap: and set it aside for no7. 2. /ith the i#nition s7itch in the &%% position: spin the motor o9er 7ith the )ic)4starter for a fe7 minutes. "o not use the electric starter as that 7ill only )ill your battery: and #enerate spar)s from the i#nition coil 4 somethin# you "&0I! 7ant around #asoline fumesA /hen you #et tired: lea9e the scooter sit for a 7hile. Repeat this procedure about three or four times. !he point in doin# this is to pump out the eGcess fuel 9apors in the cran)case. 3. Reinstall the spar)plu# and 9erify that you ha9e spar). Reinstall the throttle slide assembly into the carburetor. 5. /ith the scooter on the center stand: try to start it. &pen the throttle sli#htly at first: then try less throttle. A small amount of cho)e may be necessary: and it may ta)e se9eral attempts. 16. /hen the scooter starts: it 7ill smo)e hea9ily. !his 7ill reduce to normal after it is ridden a fe7 miles. 0&!$ to "ealers and others 7ho ha9e a ne7 F! .6 2 stro)e scooter? It 7ould be a #ood idea to 9erify the Eet 0eedle clip is in the C$0!$R position before startin# it for the first time. 7/ M! scooter is lea(in# fuel+ A1? ItIs important that you donIt operate your scooter if it lea)s fuel or oil. (a9e a professional 7or) on it if you are not familiar 7ith small en#ine repair. !hese tech tips assume you ha9e some mechanical ability. Chec)in# for fuel lea)s is simple. Eust find the 7et area and fiG the problem. C1.D Ma)e sure the lines are connected to the carburetor. See the picture belo7 7ith the letter K"K@ this is the fuel line connection to the carburetor. C2.D Chec) all of the lines from the fuel tan) to the carburetor and ma)e sure they are ti#ht. C+.D A common problem is fuel lea)in# from the clear o9er flo7 line. !his is caused by one of t7o thin#s. Ca.D the cho)e is stuc)@ replace the carburetor 7ith a ne7 unit. Cb.D !he scre7 at the bottom of the bo7l is not ti#ht. See the picture belo7 and ti#hten the scre7 mar)ed KAK.

!he fuel lea) mentioned abo9e is in reference to the L$0! connector on the 9acuum operated fuel 9al9e. &n the Retro and %T11 models: this connector is not used. 'eely bloc)s it off 7ith a short hose plu##ed 7ith a scre7. Sometimes: these be#in to lea) fuel: 7hich presents a safety haBard. !he best 7ay to seal the lea) is to replace the scre7 7ith a 1J-K Ball Bearin# follo7ed 7ith a small clamp to hold it into place. Another problem may be the bloc) off scre7 used on some carbs. Replace that scre7 7ith a better plu#. 7/ M! front headlamp does not #et ri#ht until $ ride the scooter, is that a pro lem; A? 0o: the headli#ht 7or)s off of the en#ines ener#y. So as you dri9e faster it 7ill #et bri#hter. !he tail li#ht: bra)e and turn si#nals 7or) off of the battery. 7/ M! (ic(*starter has no resistance+ A? ;ou need to pull the bac) bra)e handle. !he bra)e cable has a hoo) that latches on to the chain and allo7s you to cran) the en#ine 7ith your foot. 7/ M! starter won8t wor(+ A1? Be sure you ha9e t7o C2D positi9e 7ires connected to the battery and one C1D ne#ati9e 7ire. !he positi9e 7ires are co9ered in blac): but are red underneath. Eust pull bac) the blac) casin# to see the red 7ires. A2? ;ou need to pull the bac) bra)e handle 7hen tryin# to start the scooter. A+? "ead Battery 4 &nce a maintenance free battery has been K7et do7nK: it needs to sit 7ith the caps off for an hour to de9elop a surface char#e before bein# hoo)ed up to a

battery char#er. /e 7ere surprised to see se9eral batteries 7e first thou#ht 7ere ruined come bac) and char#e reliably after a fe7 hours on a ;UASA 1.. amp . sta#e char#er J maintainer. !hese KautomaticK char#ers cost about =+.: and are a 7orth7hile in9estment: but an ordinary 24amp char#er 7ould 7or) if the battery is disconnected and tested e9ery half hour until it reads a char#e of 1+.6 to 1+.- L"C. ItIs a little eGtra 7or): but the benefit is a battery that 7ill last years rather than 7ee)s. 7/ .hen $ push the electric starter utton, the starter will not turn off+ $t continues to run after $ stop pushin# the utton+ A? Call our parts department at 52342224226+. ;ou need a ne7 starter relay. 7/ M! <ic( Starter doesn8t wor( e,en when $ s=uee'e in the rear ra(e le,er+ $ thin( the #ears are stripped+ 0ot li)elyA !he #ears in the )ic)4starter are pretty beefy and 7ill sur9i9e a lot of abuse. /hat is more li)ely is that the Hic) Starter ,oc)4out mechanism is out of ad*ustment: especially if youI9e ad*usted the rear bra)e. If youIre familiar 7ith ad*ustin# the rear bra)e: this one 7ill be pretty easy. &n the rear bra)e cable belo7 the dri9e case: there is a rod 7ith a small for) on the end bent at 56 de#rees. !he small for) slips o9er the cable: and is held in place by t7o 3mm nuts: one in front: and one in the rear. !here is a return sprin# that pushes the rod to7ard the bac) of the scooter. !his rod mo9es 7ith the bra)e cable: and disen#a#es the )ic)4 starter loc)out 7hen the rear bra)e is applied. Push the return sprin# out of the 7ay and loosen these nuts. !urn them to7ards the front of the scooter until they mo9e the for)ed rod about 1J- h further onto the cable: and reti#hten them. 0o7: #i9e your )ic)4starter another try. If it still doesnIt 7or): try ad*ustin# them another 1J3 h or so. It may ta)e a fe7 tries: but this ad*ustment 7ill probably fiG your )ic)4starter problem.

.$"TER OPERAT$O" !he small 24stro)e en#ine in your scooter can be difficult to start as the 7eather #ets colder. /hen temperatures consistently are .6 de#rees %. or belo7: if you still plan on ridin# your scooter: there are + thin#s that must be in place: or you 7ill ha9e difficulty #ettin# your scooter started. 1. Stron# %atter! Q !he small battery that comes 7ith your scooter does not li)e cold 7eather. It 7ill normally start to lose 9olta#e: as is common 7ith all small scooterJmotorcycle batteries: at a rate of about one 9olt per month. &ne 9olt may not sound li)e a lot: but it 7ill )eep your scooter from startin# in less than .6 de#rees %. 7eather. !herefore: you should char#e your battery e9ery three 7ee)s 7ith a .. or .2 amp less battery char#e. !o ma)e thin#s simpler: plu# in an automatic battery char#er. 2. S!nthetic 6ear and $n2ection Oil Q/hen the temperatures #et belo7 .6 de#rees: it is important to s7itch to synthetic in*ection oil: if you are not already usin# one. Synthetics flo7 freely at subBero temperatures: pourin# easily at 4-6 or 4.6 de#rees %.: 7here ordinary oils turn to molasses. !his ma)es for easier cold starts and pro9ides faster upper 9al9e train lubrication durin# the first critical moments 7hen most en#ine 7ear occurs. /e hi#hly recommend usin# Amsoil in*ection oil. http?JJ777.amsoil.comJproductsJaio.html %or your #earboG: be sure to s7itch to a synthetic ./4+6: or 7hate9er is recommended in your car at your altitude and climate. +. Car uretor 4 Lery Important 4 !he idle must be set properly in order to start your scooter. If the idle is set too hi#h: it dramatically reduces the effect of the cho)e. It is better to run your scooter a little rich durin# 7inter operation. !he 7inter idle miG may ha9e to be as much as a full turn richer than the summer settin#. Be sure to ma)e the ad*ustment bac) 7hen the temperatures #et 7armer. Refer to the Carburetor ad*ustment section for step4by4step instructions on doin# the ad*ustment. %inally: you need to a9oid condensation. Condensation is the 7ater 9apor that builds up from temperature chan#es inside your en#ine. 'oin# from cold to hot 7ater 9apor and petroleum base oils U metal corrodin# acid. /hen you start your scooter in colder 7eather: ta)e it for a minimum of 16 minutes: if you ha9e the time. In doin# so: you 7ill #et the oil 7armed up to a minimum of 1364de#ree %. At 136 de#rees %. 7ater 9apor 7ill burn off and acid 7ill not build up in your oil to attac) your bearin#s. /ith these tips: you should ha9e a much better success rate at #ettin# your scooter started in colder 7eather.

STOR$"6 >OUR SCOOTER 0ot e9eryone is luc)y enou#h to li9e in an area 7here the ridin# season lasts all year lon#. /hen the 7eather turns too cold to ride: or if you 7on<t be ridin# your 'eely for a period lastin# lon#er than +6 days for any reason: there are a fe7 thin#s you need to do to ma)e sure it<s ready to #o ridin# 7hen you are. Simply startin# the scooter and lettin# it run for a fe7 minutes e9ery fe7 days durin# stora#e actually does more harm than #ood. (ere<s ho7 to do it ri#ht: and it 7ill only ta)e you about an hour. %irst: 7ash the scooter from top to bottom. !his isn<t an absolute necessity: but it 7ill sa9e you the trouble of doin# it in sprin# 7hen you<ll more li)ely be in the mood to #o ridin# than cleanin#. It 7ill also decrease the chance that potentially corrosi9e road contaminants 7ill dama#e the scooter. 0eGt: you 7ant to fill the tan) 7ith #asoline to reduce the air space inside to an absolute minimum. !his 7ill decrease the chance for 7ater to condense inside the tan) durin# the stora#e period: contaminatin# the fuel and possibly causin# the tan) to be#in rustin# from the inside out. Add a %U$, S!ABI,IM$R to the tan) before you fill it if you eGpect to be storin# the scooter for lon#er than +6 days. S!A4BI, is the name of one brand: but there are others. ;ou can find them at most hard7are or Automoti9e stores. "o the same 7ith the in*ector oil tan) if you ha9e a 24stro)e model by fillin# it completely 7ith 24stro)e oil. Addin# a stabiliBer is not necessary for the oil as it already has stabiliBers blended into it. &n the sub*ect of storin# #asoline: there are a fe7 #ood rules to follo7? 4 A,/A;S use a proper stora#e container appro9ed for #asoline. 4 Store the container A/A; from i#nition sources: spar)s: and open flames. $Gplosi9e 9apors can lea) out of the most ti#htly sealed containers. !hat includes the fuel tan) on your scooter. 4 A"" %uel StabiliBer if you are #oin# to be storin# the #asoline for lon#er than +6 days. 0o7: you 7ant to ta)e the scooter for a nice: lon# ride to ma)e sure the stabiliBer treated #asoline has 7or)ed its 7ay throu#hout the fuel system. About 1. to 26 minutes ou#ht to do it. Putter on bac) home: and par) the scooter on its center4stand 7here9er you intend to store it. $9en 7ith the fuel stabiliBer added to the fuel: the #asoline in the float bo7l of the carburetor 7ill e9aporate 7ithin a fe7 7ee)s lea9in# a nasty: stic)y residue behind: #ummin# up the internal 7or)in#s. !a)in# a fe7 minutes to drain the carburetor no7 7ill sa9e you hours of frustration a fe7 months later.

&or the ) Stro(e Car urerator ,ocate the carburetor under the rear fender mounted to the front of the en#ine. %rom the ri#ht side of the scooter: you 7ill see t7o blac) hoses #oin# into the carburetor. !he lo7er blac) hose is the fuel line. Pull the fuel line from the carburetor: and uic)ly plu# it 7ith a 7ooden #olf tee: ma)in# sure it doesn<t lea). !hat 7ill pre9ent the carburetor from re4fillin# 7ith #asoline in the e9ent that the fuel 9al9e de9elops a slo7 lea). %rom the left side of the scooter: you 7ill find a clear tube attached to the bottom of the carburetor. !here 7ill also be a brass scre7 on the same fittin# 7ith the hose. An access hole in the s7in#4arm allo7s you to #et to this scre7 7ith a lon#: thin strai#ht scre7dri9er. Place a clean #lass container under the clear drain hose: and open the scre7 a fe7 turns countercloc)7ise. 'asoline 7ill drain from the float4bo7l: throu#h the tube: and into the #lass container. ,et it run until it stops: then close the drain scre7. If the #as is clear and uncontaminated: pour it bac) into the #as tan). If you see a lot of crud or 7ater in the bottom of the #lass: you mi#ht 7ant to chec) the fuel filter. The %atter! I #enerally #et t7o to three years ser9ice out of e9en the cheapest: no4name lead4acid batteries as lon# as I ta)e care of them. !he 'eely comes 7ith a Maintenance %ree battery located under the panel in the stora#e compartment. RMaintenance %reeS: ho7e9er: does not mean the battery 7ill last fore9er if you i#nore it. ,ead4Acid batteries do not li)e to sit unused for lon# periods of time. If the battery is not )ept acti9ely char#ed: a deterioratin# process called RsulfationS occurs 7hich 7ill #reatly shorten its useful life. A,/A;S disconnect the ne#ati9e C4D terminal first: and the positi9e CVD terminal second to pre9ent spar)s. Remo9e the battery from its compartment and 7ipe it do7n 7ith a solution of Ba)in# Soda and 7ater to neutraliBe any acid that may ha9e seeped out of it: then 7ipe it do7n a second time 7ith clear 7ater. If you ha9e a battery 7ith indi9idual cell caps: chec) the electrolyte le9els and top them up to the full mar) 7ith distilled 7ater &0,;A !ap 7ater is full of ions that 7rea) ha9oc on the electro4chemical process that happens inside: and more acid only upsets the chemical balance. /ear #lo9es and eye protection 7hen doin# this: and don<t touch anythin# else until you<9e finished the *ob and 7ashed upA (oo) the battery up to a 1249olt Char#erJMaintainer for the duration of the stora#e period. !hese are small: 14amp char#ers that loo) li)e an AC adapter that plu#s into the 7all. ;ou can find them at most Automoti9e Stores: and they usually cost about =26. "&0<! use a lar#er automoti9e type char#erA $9en the 2 amp char#ers can o9erchar#e the tiny 'eely battery and dama#e it beyond use. Preppin# the scooter for a lon# 7inter<s nap is also a #ood time to clean the air filter: chan#e the en#ine oil in the - stro)e model: and the transmission oil in both the 2 and -

stro)e models. ;our 'eely &7ner<s Manual has instructions on ho7 to do this. Remember: anythin# you do to the scooter no7 you 7on<t ha9e to do in the Sprin#. Ma)e a final chec) of e9erythin# you<9e done so far. !op4up the fluids: and co9er the scooter 7ith a piece of plastic sheet or a tarp. 0o7: you<re ready to #et busy 7aitin# for Sprin#timeA !o pull your scooter out of stora#e is a lot easier and only ta)es a fe7 minutes. (oo) up the fuel line to the carburetor: and re4install the battery. Remember to install the battery eGactly the re9erse of remo9in# it. Connect the positi9e CVD 7ire %IRS!: then hoo) up the ne#ati9e 7ire C4D to pre9ent spar)s. 'et the scooter started and you<re ready to #o for another ridin# seasonA WAnd: yes: it<s &H to lau#h at your friends 7ho simply par)ed their scooters last fall: and are no7 spendin# hours cleanin# their carburetors: cursin# their dead batteries: and pumpin# on their )ic) startersW

RECOMME"DED TOO1S &OR >OUR SCOOTER !he 'eely scooter comes 7ith its o7n tool )it. It<s #ood to ha9e on hand: but if you plan to do your o7n maintenance: you<re #oin# to need more. It<s important to buy #ood: uality tools. ;ou don<t ha9e to spend a small fortune to #et #ood tools: but the 364piece soc)et set for =1.5. is definitely not the bar#ain it seems 7hen you start strippin# bolts and dama#in# parts. Most automoti9e stores ha9e #ood uality ready4made )its that ha9e almost e9erythin# you 7ill need. (ere is a list of tools you 7ill find useful C7hich is by no means comprehensi9e Q you can ne9er ha9e too many toolsAD. I ha9e listed them by cate#ory: alon# 7ith an approGimate cost ran#e for all the tools in that cate#ory. Shop around for bar#ains on '&&" tools. SCR$/"RIL$RS? ApproGimate cost? =16 to =2. 4&ne X2 Phillips dri9er 4&ne X+ Phillips dri9er 4&ne YK strai#ht thin scre7dri9er: about 3K lon# 4&ne +J3K strai#ht scre7dri9er 1K lon# 4&ne PK strai#ht scre7dri9er 1K to 3K lon# 0ote? for most purposes: a K1 in oneK type scre7dri9er 7ill be sufficient. 4&ne KImpact "ri9erK 7ith a 9ariety of bits. Lery useful for loosenin# those stubborn dri9e case scre7s. /R$0C($S? ApproGimate cost? =1. to =-6 4A set of KCombination /renchesK siBed from 3mm to 15mm. !hese are the ones that ha9e the open4end on one side 7ith the boG4end on the other. 4&ne 3K ad*ustable 7rench S&CH$! S$!? ApproGimate cost? =1. to =-6 4&ne +J3K dri9e ratchet 7rench 4A collection of soc)ets to fit the abo9e: siBed from 3mm to 15mm 4A spar) plu# soc)et. I li)e the ones 7ith a (eG4"ri9e so you can use it 7ith a combination 7rench as 7ell as the ratchet 7rench. ;ou 7ill need a 1+J11K soc)et for 2 stro)e spar) plu#s: andJor a .J3K soc)et for - stro)e spar) plu#s. 4A 2-mm soc)et: 1 sided: for the rear aGle nut on 2 stro)e and - stro)e scooters. %or the %T 11: you can use a 15mm combination 7rench. 4A 2K eGtension and a 1K eGtension for the +J3K dri9e ratchet 7rench. ;ou 7ill be happy if you bou#ht the K7obbleK type. 0ote? A 1J-K dri9e soc)et set similar to the +J3K dri9e set abo9e is useful: but not absolutely necessary. ,i)e7ise: a half4h dri9e Ratchet set 7ould be nice to ha9e if you ha9e the money for it.

A,,$0 /R$0C( S$!? ApproGimate cost? =. to =12 4Usually siBed from +mm to 3mm: but for the most part you 7ill only need the .mm siBe. P,I$RS? ApproGimate cost? =26 to =-. 41K Slip4Ea7 41K 0eedle nose 41K "ia#onal Cutters 41K or 3K Lise4'rip type 4A Chain /rench is useful for holdin# onto parts that spin 7hile you try to loosen them: li)e clutches and ma#netos. 4A pair of t7eeBers (AMM$RS? ApproGimate cost? =>16 to =2. 4A 11 ounce Ball Pean (ammer 4A 1 P lb. "ead Blo7 (ammer M$ASURI0' !&&,S? ApproGimate cost? =16 to =1. 4A .66ml Plastic Measurin# Cup 4A Spar) Plu# 'appin# tool 4A tire #au#e readin# in both PSI and HPa $,$C!RICA, !&&,S? ApproGimate cost listed for each tool 4A L&M CLoltsJ&hm MeterD 7ith a 16 amp settin# 4 =1. to =.6 4A solderin# iron 7ith solder and fluG 4 =16 to =1. 4A pair of /ire Crimpers and terminal )it 4 =3 to =12 4A Continuity !ester: the 7ireless ones 7or) #reatA 4 =+ to =1. 4A set of *umper leads CRadio Shac) has themD 4 =2 to =. 4A paperclip Q ;ou 7ill be amaBed at ho7 useful it isA 4 %R$$A 4A 1..amp Battery Char#erJMaintainer 4 =2. to =-6 MISC$,,A0$&US? 4A small %unnel 4 =1 to =2 4A set of %iles 4 =16 to =1. 4A 1J3K Punch 4 =+ to =. 4A PK chisel 4 =+ to =. 4A !ire Pump 4 =16 to =26 4A 7ire brush 4 =+ to =. 4'olf !ees for plu##in# hoses 4 =1 to =+ for a 7hole ba# of them 4A set of !ire Irons: a9ailable at most Motorcycle Shops: and MUC( better than chan#in# tires 7ith a scre7dri9er. 4 =1. to =2. for the set of t7o 4A H0&/04'&&" spar)plu# 4 =2 to =4A 1K 7ide paint scraper 4 =2 to =4A '&&" !ool BoG to )eep e9erythin# in 4 =26 to =-6 A"LA0C$" !&&,S C&ptionalD? 4A Compression !ester: 7ith a hose that scre7s into the spar) plu# hole 4 =26 to =+6

4An Inducti9e !achometer 4 =+. to =.6 4An Inducti9e !imin# ,i#ht 4 =2. to =+. 4Mechanic<s Stethoscope 4 =16 to =1. 4A Mitey Lac Z 9acuum pump 7ith #au#e 4 =+6 to =1. dependin# on the set 4A set of "ial or Lernier Calipers for fine measurements 4 =1. to =.6 !a)e care of your toolsA Heep them clean and or#aniBed. !hereIs nothin# more frustratin# than spendin# ten minutes di##in# around for a tool you need to do a t7o4minute *obA

) STRO<E CAR%URETOR AD?USTME"T Part 5, The $dle Mi0ture It is no surprise that the Idle MiGture on a brand ne7 'eely Scooter may need to be ad*usted 7hen you recei9e it. !he carburetor is ad*usted at the factory 7here the atmospheric conditions could be uite different than they are in your area. %ortunately: it isn<t a difficult process for anyone 7ith a small de#ree of Mechanical Aptitude. An Inducti9e ,ead !achometer 7ould be a nice tool to ha9e on hand for this: but all you really need is a scre7dri9er and a #ood set of ears. Be#in by familiariBin# yourself 7ith the scooter carburetor by loo)in# at it. It<s located under the ri#ht rear fender in front of the rear 7heel: attached to the en#ine. &n the side of the carburetor: you 7ill find t7o brass scre7s. !he scre7 located farthest from the en#ine Con the left as you loo) at itD is the AirJ%uel MiGture scre7. !urnin# this scre7 Cloc)7ise RIC($0S the miGture 7ith more fuelJless air: turnin# it Counter Cloc)7ise ,$A0S the miGture 7ith less fuelJmore air. !he scre7 closer to the en#ine at the base of the Rto7erS is the Idle Speed Scre7. !urnin# this scre7 Cloc)7ise R$AS$S the Idle Speed: turnin# it Counter Cloc)7ise "$CR$AS$S the Idle Speed. MemoriBe their positions: but don<t do anythin# to them yet. Eust identify them so you<ll )no7 7hat to do later.

!he neGt step is to 7arm up the scooter by ridin# it around for about ten minutes. /hen the en#ine is 7armed up: par) it on the center stand in a 7ell49entilated area: and lea9e the en#ine runnin# at idle. /ith a scre7dri9er: #i9e the MIT!UR$ SCR$/ a uarter turn in 7hiche9er direction R$AS$S the en#ine idle speed.

I% turnin# the scre7 in either direction causes the Idle Speed to "$CR$AS$: that<s itA Set the scre7 bac) to its ori#inal position: and you<re done already. Mo9e on to the I",$ SP$$" ad*ustment. I% turnin# the miGture scre7 in one direction or the other causes the idle speed to R$AS$: continue turnin# the scre7 in that direction another FUAR!$R !UR0 : and listen carefully to the en#ine speed for a fe7 seconds. Continue doin# this a uarter turn at a time until you hear the en#ine idle speed be#in to "$CR$AS$: and return the scre7 settin# to 7here the en#ine runs at the fastest idle. As a final touch: #i9e the scre7 1J3th turn cloc)7ise no matter 7hich direction you<9e been turnin# it Cto err on the rich side 7hich runs coolerD. 0o7: you<re ready to set the I",$ SP$$". !urn the I",$ SP$$" scre7 Counter Cloc)7ise until the en#ine sounds li)e it 7ants to stall: then Cloc)7ise a#ain about 1J3th to a uarter turn to smooth it out. !he 'eely 2 Stro)e seems happy to idle at about 1366 to 2666 rpm. /hen you tin)er 7ith the MIT!UR$ SCR$/: be sure that you do not set it too lean. !his is ho7 you it should be set. 'ently turn the miGture scre7 in until it stops: then ac( it out 5 59) to 5 39: turns and ad*ust the idle speed scre7 for the lo7est: smooth idle: and they should be close enou#h. %e sure that !ou ac( the mi0ture screw out+ $f !ou run !our scooter with the ma0imum air mi0ture, !our scooter will run too lean, and !ou will @cold sei'eA !our scooter+ The pistons will e sei'ed to the c!linder, and this is, of course, not co,ered under warrant!+ !o summariBe the process? 1. /arm up the en#ine. 2. Ad*ust the MIT!UR$ scre7 either 7ay for the fastest idle speed: CRemember to err on the RIC( side by #i9in# the miGture scre7 1J3th turn cloc)7ise from fastest idleD. +. Ad*ust the I",$ scre7 for a normal soundin# idle It<s almost li)e tunin# a radio: first for the stron#est si#nal: then ad*ustin# the 9olume to a comfortable listenin# le9el. A fe7 thin#s to )eep in mind 7hile you<re 7or)in# on the idle miGture settin#s? 4 !he &il Pump is dri9en by the rear 7heel. $9ery fe7 minutes 7hen the en#ine is runnin# at idle: re9 the motor up a bit to spin the rear 7heel for a fe7 seconds. !hat 7ill )eep the en#ine lubricated durin# the process: and one reason to do it 7ith the scooter sittin# on its centerstand. 4 If you<9e already been t7ea)in# on the ad*ustment settin#s: and ha9e no idea 7here the 7ere ori#inally: turn the miGture scre7 cloc)7ise until it *ust stops C4 "& 0&! &L$R!I'(!$0 I!A 4D: then bac) it out counter cloc)7ise 1 P turns as a startin# point for the procedure. Start the en#ine: and set the idle speed scre7 for a RnormalS lo7 idle: and be#in the ad*ustment procedure from step 1.

4 If the 7armed up Scooter refuses to idle: or stalls fre uently 7hile idlin# and this procedure doesn<t fiG the problem: chec) for a dirty air filter: bloc)ed eGhaust: or disconnected 9acuum lines to the carburetor. &n an older scooter 7ith hi#h milea#e: you may need to ha9e the carburetor andJor eGhaust system cleaned: or ha9e the en#ine tested for lea)in# seals. 4 Settin# the Idle MiGture really doesn<t chan#e the miGture at other throttle settin#s. %rom about Y to %ull !hrottle: the miGture is controlled by *ets 7ithin the carburetor. Under normal circumstances you 7on<t need to bother 7ith them: but if you<re interested: 2 Stro)e Carburetor Ad*ustment Part II 7ill #et into the Mid4Ran#e ad*ustments.

Part $$, The ?et "eedle O Caution? this is more difficult than Part I. !his is offered as reference: 7e do not support 7or)in# on your o7n scooter. ;ou should ha9e a ualified technician 7or) on your scooter. (o7e9er: 7e )no7 many of you 7ant to )no7 ho7 thin#s 7or): so 7e 7ill continue to pro9ide this 9aluable information to our customers. &H: so you<9e ad*usted the Idle MiGture on your 2 stro)e 'eely as described in Part I: and it runs a lot smoother 7hen you first start ta)in# off do7n the road. !he only problem is that no7 you<9e noticed that 7hen you #et to about [ throttle or so: the scooter seems to la#: and maybe e9en seems to run slo7er as you open it up to /ide &pen !hrottle C/&!D. ;ou mi#ht suspect that the %uel MiGture still has somethin# to do 7ith it: and you mi#ht be ri#ht: but don<t #o bac) to t7ea)in# on the miGture scre7. As stated in Part I: the miGture scre7 only affects the fuel miGture from idle to about Y throttle. Beyond that: it has 9ery little effect on the 7ay your 'eely runs in the Midran#e. %ortunately: this is not a particularly difficult ad*ustment to ma)e either: and the only tool you 7ill need is a pair of 0eedle 0ose pliers. %irst: cra7l bac) under the ri#ht rear fender: and ta)e another loo) at the carburetor. ;ou already )no7 about the Idle ad*ustment scre7s: no7 ta)e a close loo) at the R!o7erS abo9e the Idle Speed Scre7 Cthe one on the leftD. ;ou can see 7here the throttle cable #oes into the top of the to7er: and the top loo)s li)e it can unscre7 li)e a bottle cap: doesn<t itN /ell: that<s because it doesA "on<t #o playin# 7ith it yet. Start the scooter: and ta)e it for a ride. /hen the en#ine is all 7armed up: come to a stop at a place 7here you can ma)e a lon#: strai#ht: le9el run: and slo7ly be#in to accelerate. 'radually: open the throttle to the point 7here the en#ine feels li)e it<s be#innin# to la#. (old the throttle steady at that position: and #radually push open the cho)e le9er. !he scooter usually 7ill do one of t7o thin#s. It 7ill either be#in to run a little better: or a little 7orse. In fact: it mi#ht e9en die alto#ether if you hold the cho)e too far open for too lon#. If it does: start it up: ride it around a bit: and try the test a#ain. "o it se9eral times. Be certain that the scooter responds the same 7ay e9ery time you #i9e the cho)e le9er a Rnud#eS. &nce you<re sure of that: putt bac) home: shut the en#ine off: and #et ready to do a little 7or) on your machine. /ith the scooter on the center stand: reach up under the ri#ht rear fender and unscre7 the top of the Carburetor R!o7erS. /hen it<s loosened: lift it strai#ht up to pull out the S,I"$ and the E$! 0$$",$. Be #entle: don<t yan) on itA !he cable should be lon# enou#h for you to pull the S,I"$ J E$! 0$$",$ assembly out 7here you can #et a #ood loo) at it. Under the CAP: you should see a sprin# s ueeBed into the cylinder shaped S,I"$: 7ith the E$! 0$$",$ stic)in# out the bottom. %irst: let<s ta)e a #ood loo) at the S,I"$. 0otice ho7 the bottom has an A0',$ cut half7ay across it. !his A0',$ faces the I0!AH$ side in the Carburetor. It helps the air miG 7ith the fuel 7hile the S,I"$ acts

li)e a throttle 9al9e. !here is also a 0&!C( near the bottom and on one side of the slide. !his 0&!C( is 7here the I",$ SP$$" scre7 Cnot the miGture scre7D fits: and does its *ob of holdin# the slide up *ust a little so the scooter can idle. &n the other side of the S,I"$: there is a 'R&&L$ that runs the entire len#th of it. !he 'R&&L$ has t7o purposes. %irst: it allo7s the throttle cable to be remo9ed from the slide: and second: inside the R!o7erS there is a pin that runs in the 'R&&L$ as the S,I"$ runs up and do7n inside it. !hat )eeps the S,I"$ from t7istin# and turnin# as it does its *ob. It<s L$R; IMP&R!A0! to remember all this for 7hen you<re ready to put it all bac) to#etherA Remo9in# the S,I"$ from the cable is easier if you hold the S,I"$ ASS$MB,; in your left hand 7hile you t7ist the throttle #rip 7ith your ri#ht hand. !he S,I"$ 7ill compress the sprin#. (old it to#ether 7ith your fin#ers as you t7ist the throttle #rip bac): and the end of the cable should po)e out the bottom of the S,I"$. ,ift the end of the cable up out of the #roo9e: and let the sprin# push the slide off the cable. (old onto itA ;ou don<t 7ant it shootin# off to 'od )no7s 7here. 0o7: you should be holdin# the S,I"$ J E$! 0$$",$ assembly in your hand. ,oo) inside the slide: and you 7ill see a hairpin type sprin# holdin# the E$! 0$$",$ in the bottom of the slide. Reach in there 7ith your 0$$",$ 0&S$ P,I$RS to s ueeBe it #ently and pull it out. Be careful: these thin#s lo9e to *ump and hide too. &nce the E$! 0$$",$ retainin# sprin# has been remo9ed: you can push the E$! 0$$",$ out of the S,I"$. !a)e a #ood loo) at the E$! 0$$",$. ;ou can see it loo)s pretty much li)e:W7ell: a needle. !apered to a point on one end: and the RheadS has fi9e little #roo9es 7ith the 7orld<s tiniest R$S clip in the middle one. !his is the RstandardS position for the R$S clip: and you ad*ust the midran#e miGture by mo9in# the R$S clip into a different position.

(old the E$! 0$$",$ in front of you point do7n: and ima#ine ho7 it mo9es up and do7n inside the carburetor 7ith the S,I"$. !he pointed end fits into a hole in the carburetor called the 0$$",$ E$!. Se the 0$$",$ E$! remains stationary: the taper of the E$! 0$$",$ allo7s more or less fuel to miG 7ith the incomin# air dependin# on the thic)ness of the taper that remains in the 0$$",$ E$!. Mo9in# the E$! 0$$",$ up lets M&R$ fuel into the airstream. Mo9in# it do7n lets ,$SS fuel into the miG. ;ou chan#e the midran#e air J fuel ratio by ma)in# the E$! 0$$",$ mo9e hi#her or lo7er in relation to the S,I"$. All you need to )no7 is 7hich 7ay to mo9e it. Remember your test ride 7hen you turned on the cho)e le9erN !hat temporarily added more fuel to the miG. If your scooter ran B$!!$R: then the midran#e miG is lean: and you need to mo9e the R$S clip one notch do7n to7ard the pointed end. If your scooter ran /&RS$: then the midran#e miG is rich: and you need to mo9e the R$S clip up one notch to7ard the RheadS end. "ecide no7 7hich #roo9e you<re #oin# to put it in: but don<t mo9e it more than one notch at a time or you mi#ht ad*ust it too much. !he easiest 7ay to remo9e the R$S clip is to lay the E$! 0$$",$ on a hard: flat surface 7ith the openin# of the R$S clip do7n. Co9er it 7ith your hand or a cloth in case the little clip decides to ma)e a leap for freedom: and press the E$! 0$$",$ partly out the openin#. If the clip doesn<t pop off: #rab it ti#htly 7ith your needle nose pliers and carefully pull it off the rest of the 7ay: Cif you do lose it: you can #et another at most (ard7are storesD. Usin# the same hard: flat surface method: press the R$S clip bac) onto the 0$$",$ E$! in it<s ne7 position: ma)in# certain that it<s completely snapped into place in it<s ne7 #roo9e. "rop the E$! 0$$",$ bac) into the S,I"$: and replace the hairpin type E$! 0$$",$ retainin# sprin# 7ith your pliers: pushin# it all the 7ay to the bottom of the S,I"$. Ma)e sure the E$! 0$$",$ stays in place 7hen you<re done. 0o7 comes the hardest part. ;ou ha9e to put the S,I"$ SPRI0' onto the throttle cable 7here it stic)s out under the !o7er Cap: and s ueeBe it past the little ball on the end of the cable as far as you can. "on<t #et frustrated: I s7ear it can be done 7ith some practice. %it the little ball end into its special place in the bottom of the slide #roo9e: and pull the cable into the #roo9e as you push the sprin# up and o9er the top of the slide and let it pop into place. 'ently: put the S,I"$ J E$! 0$$",$ assembly bac) into the R!o7erS of the carburetor. "& 0&! %&RC$ I!A It 7ill practically fall inside 7hen you ha9e it lined up ri#ht. Remember to )eep it properly oriented as described before. Ei##le: t7ist: up J do7n: play 7ith it until it slips inside the !o7er all the 7ay to the bottom: and scre7 the cap bac) on. If you ha9e to push the cap do7n to compress the sprin# more than a millimeter or t7o: it isn<t ri#ht. Pull it out and try a#ain. &nce you ha9e the Carburetor bac) to#ether: ta)e another test ride: C;ou may 7ant to re ad*ust the I",$ miGture per Part I of this seriesD. (opefully: your scooter 7ill accelerate much more smoothly than before. If not: then #o bac) to the be#innin# and try the RCho)eS test a#ain to determine if the R$S clip needs to be mo9ed yet another #roo9e up or do7n. /hen in doubt: lea9e it in the center E$! 0$$",$ #roo9e as that<s the standard position set by the factory: and be happy you sa9ed yourself the =-6 a bi)e shop 7ould ha9e char#ed you to do the same thin#A

.ARRA"T> $"&ORMAT$O" B4 DA>S OR ),444 <M 1$M$TED .ARRA"T> * PARTS O"1>, 1A%OR $S "OT COCERED !(IS ,IMI!$" /ARRA0!; C&L$RS !($ %&,,&/I0' PAR!S? $0'I0$? $n#ine lon# bloc) assembly: includin# all internal lubricated parts: i.e. rin#s: pistons: pins: cran)shaft and: main bearin#s: the connectin# rods: and rod bearin#s: camshaft bearin#s: timin# chain #ears: roc)er arms: 9al9e sprin#s: 9al9e #uides: 9al9e seats: 9al9e push rods: 9al9e lifters: and oil pump. Additionally: the en#ine head CsD: en#ine bloc) and cylinder barrels 7ill be co9ered if they are solely as a result of the mechanical failure of one or more of the internal lubricated components specified abo9e. !he Coolin# system must be in #ood 7or)in# order includin# coolin# fans. Accessory items: includin# but not limited to electrical components of all types Cdistributor: alternator and all sensors and electrical control de9icesD: fuel systems: #as)ets: seals: filters: mounts lin)a#e and fluids are not co9ered by this a#reement. !RA0S%$R CAS$? All internal lubricated parts contained 7ithin the transfer case. !he transfer case itself 7ill be co9ered if dama#e solely as a result of the mechanical failure of one or more of the internal lubricated components contained 7ithin the transfer case. Accessory items: includin# but not limited to: U4*oints: electrical components: lin)a#e: seals: #as)ets: mounts or fluids are not co9ered by this A#reement. "I%%$R$0!IA,? All internal lubricated parts contained 7ithin the dri9e aGle housin# case. !he dri9e aGle housin# itself if dama#ed solely as a result of the mechanical failure of one or more or the internal lubricated components contained the dri9e aGle housin#. Accessory items: includin# but not limited to: bac)in# plates: all bra)e system components: cables: controls: lin)a#e: 9ents: pumps: U4*oints: electrical controls: mounts: seals: #as)ets: and fluids are not co9ered by this A#reement. !RA0SMISSI&0 CAutomatic or StandardD? All internal lubricated parts contained 7ithin the transmission case. !he transmission case itself if dama#ed solely as a result of mechanical failure of one or more of the internal lubricated components contained 7ithin the transmission case. !he Complete hydraulic system must be flushed includin# inte#ral transfer case: oil cooler: lines: and ne7 filterCsD installed Accessory items: includin# but not limited to: modulators: #o9ernors: electrical controls: lin)a#e: mounts: seals: #as)ets: and fluids are not co9ered by this A#reement. COCERA6E A"D 1$M$TAT$O"S IMP&R!A0!? ;ou must ha9e a professional mechanic Cany small en#ine repair shop: motorcycle shop: or local auto repair shopD assemble your ne7 scooter and do the prep 7or) to assure your scooter is in #ood 7or)in# condition or your 7arranty is only 164 days. ;ou 7ill need to pro9ide proof of this 7hen filin# a 7arranty claim: so please )eep

your receipts. ;ou must also ha9e a professional mechanic 7or) on your scooter to file a claim on the 7arranty. Sub*ect to the limitations stated in this a#reement: Scooters 8 Mopeds Unlimited a#rees Cat its electionD to replace a co9ered component if the co9ered component fails as a result of one or more of the internal lubricated parts 7ithin the component stated 7arranty period from the date of purchase: 7hile the component is bein# used under the conditions and in the manner specified by its ori#inal manufacturer. R$PAIR$" C&MP&0$0!S? If the components are repaired under the terms of this A#reement they 7ill be repaired or 7ith components parts of li)e )ind and uality. ,AB&R !& R$PAIR &R R$P,AC$ PAR!S? Scooters 8 Mopeds Unlimited does not pay for labor for the remo9al and replacement of such component CsD or part CsD. $MPORTA"T "OTES !his 7arranty does not include labor: 7earable parts or dama#ed parts from accidents: abuse: or shippin#. If you ha9e a part that needs replacin#: please contact us and 7eIll send the part 7ithin . days: or let you )no7 the lead4time for the part. In some cases: the parts may ha9e to be shipped from China and may ta)e up to 3 7ee)s for deli9ery. Scooters 8 Mopeds Unlimited reser9es the ri#ht to inspect the componentCsD or partCsD co9ered by this A#reement prior to any repair or replacement of or reimbursement for such componentCsD or partCsD is authoriBed. T-$S A6REEME"T A"D 1$M$TED .ARRA"T> $S CO$D $&? SC&&!$RS 8 M&P$"S U0,IMI!$" IS 0&! PR&LI"$" A R$AS&0AB,$ &PP&R!U0I!; %&R I0SP$C!I&0 &% A C&L$R$" C&MP&0$0! PRI&R !& R$M&LA,: R$PAIR &R R$P,AC$M$0! &% A0; C&L$R$" C&MP&0$0!. !($ CUS!&M$R "&$S 0&! US$ A PR&%$SSI&0A, M$C(A0IC CSMA,, $0'I0$ R$PAIR S(&P: M&!&RC;C,$ S(&P: &R AU!& R$PAIR S(&PD !& ASS$MB,$ A0" PR$P !($ SC&&!$R PRI&R !& &P$RA!I&0. PR&&% &% !(IS /I,, B$ R$FUIR$" C/I!( A L$RI%IAB,$ R$C$IP!D B$%&R$ PAR!S /I,, B$ R$P,AC$". SC&&!$RS 8 M&P$"S U0,IMI!$" /I,, &%%$R A 564"A; ,IMI!$" /ARRA0!; !& A0;&0$ ASS$MB,I0' !($IR &/0 SC&&!$R. !($ C&MP&0$0!S AR$ 0&! I0S!A,,$" B; A C$R!I%I$" ,IC$0S$" R$PAIR %ACI,I!; &R A0 AU!(&RIM$" SC&&!$RS 8 M&P$"S U0,IMI!$" "$A,$R /I!(I0 136 "A;S &% !($ "A!$ &% PURC(AS$ AS I0"ICA!$" &0 !($ %AC$ &% !(IS A'R$$M$0!.

!($ "AMA'$ !& !($ C&MP&0$0! IS CAUS$" B; A 0&04C&L$R$" C&MP&0$0! &R PAR! &R B; A0; PAR! &R C&MP&0$0! 0&! PURC(AS$" %R&M SC&&!$RS 8 M&P$"S U0,IMI!$" . !($ CUS!&M$R %AI,S !& %&,,&/ !($ MI0IMUM MAI0!$0A0C$ A0" BR$AH4I0 R$FUIR$M$0!S SU''$S!$" B; !($ MA0U%AC!UR$R. A0" %AI,S !& PR&LI"$ PR&P$R S$RLIC$ "&CUM$0!S. /ARRA0!; IS L&I" I% ($A! !ABS AR$ M$,!$". ,IMI!$" /ARRA0!; !RA0S%$RABI,I!;? !his A#reement is pro9ided to the ori#inal purchaser and is non transferable. And: does not co9er dama#e due to misuse: ne#lect: or accident. 0& IMP,I$" /ARRA0!I$S &R A'R$$M$0!S? !($R$ AR$ 0& A'R$$M$0!S &R /ARRA0!I$S: $TPR$SS$" &R IMP,I$" ,U"I0' /ARRA0!I$S &% M$RC(A0!ABI,I!; &R %I!0$SS %&R A PAR!ICU,AR PURP&S$: &!($R !(A0 !(&S$ S!A!$" I0 !(IS A'R$$M$0!. SC&&!$RS 8 M&P$"S U0,IMI!$" S(A,, 0&! B$ R$SP&0SIB,$ %&R !($ PA;M$0! &% "AMA'$S: &!($R !(A0 !($ SUMS SP$CI%I$" I0 !(IS A'R$$M$0! A0" ,IMI!$" /ARRA0!;: %&R I"$0!A, &R C&0S$FU$0!IA, ,&SS &R "AMA'$ ARISI0' %R&M I0EUR;: ,&SS &% US$: ,&SS &% !IM$: R$0!A, L$(IC,$S: PR&%I!S: &R I0C&M$ !& !($ CUS!&M$R AS A R$SU,! &% A %AI,UR$ &% A0; C&MP&0$0! &R PAR!. TO.$"6 C-AR6ES/ All towin# char#es incurred are the responsi ilit! of the customer+ 0& &!($R A'R$$M$0!? !here are no other a#reements bet7een the parties 7ith re#ards to the components purchased eGcept as stated in this a#reement 8 limited 7arranty. CO"TACT US Return all parts co9ered under 7arranty to? Scooters 8 Mopeds Unlimited 2166 ,on# ,oo) "ri9e Prescott Lalley: AM 31+152342224226+ 52342224+261 office faG